SAINT-JOSEPH WINES CONQUERED THE GRANITESLOPES OF THE RHONE

AOC Saint-Joseph

THE VINEYARDS THAT CONQUERED THE GRANITESLOPES OF THE RHONE

FOREWORD

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

Saint-Joseph, land of challenges The Saint-Joseph appellation, home of Syrah, was created in 1956, and has continued to evolve ever since to offer the purest expression of its uniquely steep terroir that borders the Rhone. Its DNA is rooted in the typicity of its granite soils and its dominant, emblematic grape variety. The reality of climate change has led to a reflection on the nature of its identity, and how it must adapt for the future. “Syrah cannot help but be well adapted to our terroir because of its origins”. Research has shown that it is of local parentage, descendant of the Mondeuse Blanche from the Savoie and the Dureza, an ancient variety from the Ardèche. The strains that produced Syrah came from the northern Rhone Valley and the Isère and so it is naturally at home here in its native environment. It’s a variety that has also demonstrated its tremendous capacity to adapt to other conditions, showing great resilience to heat when it has been planted in other vineyards around the world. The risk for Syrah faced with high temperatures is one of aromatic deviance. But here again, the Saint-Joseph terroir offers a natural solution based on the osmosis between soil and plant. The method of training on stakes creates shade that promotes evapo-transpiration and thus a certain freshness at the level of the soil. “For us, granite is the geological medium that

Saint-Joseph

best suits Syrah. It allows it full expression and is the best equipped to enable it to resist changes in the climate”. The importance of assisting the vineyards to face up to these changes is nevertheless clear. The Saint-Joseph appellation wishes to open a debate on the use of irrigation in the years to come. “The climate is effectively changing, and I believe the appellation rules need to evolve on this subject, at least in exceptional years”. To respond in the most natural way, the creation of hillside ‘lakes’ is envisaged in certain areas within the appellation where there are no vines. This would avoid the need to modify the appellation zone whilst benefitting from areas that are currently unexploited, which would undoubtedly prove useful in the future. The Saint-Joseph of 1956 is not the SaintJoseph of today. The people and the climate have changed, but the terroirs remain, and history will continue to be written by dynamic, dedicated winemakers, source of hope and new ideas. “It is for us to sustain the vineyards, to help them evolve and endure”.

VINEYARDS OF FORTITUDE The vineyards of Saint-Joseph are rooted in the steep hillsides that overlook the right bank of the Rhone. Visible from afar, perched on terraces painstakingly constructed by hand, they mark the landscape with their extraordinary architecture of graduated lines, triumphing against all odds over these rugged slopes that form the first foothills of the Vivarais mountains. The vineyards of this vertiginous terroir have been recognised as “heroic” in Europe. Proof, if it were needed, that cultivating these vines is exacting, arduous work, demanding of courage and dedication.

Local geography and climatic influences

he Saint-Joseph appellation sits on the right bank of the Rhone, stretching for some 60km from Guilherand-Granges to Chavanay.

The vines are planted principally on steep, south-south-east facing slopes that sweep up from the river, enabling them to benefit from excellent sunshine exposure. The appellation enjoys both continental and Mediterranean influences, and the winds that blow along the river create

Michel Chapoutier & Joël Durand, Presidents of the Saint-Joseph appellation

ideal sanitary conditions that keep the grapes healthy and limit the risk of disease.

The territory AOP Saint-Joseph covers 23 communes in the department of Ardèche and 3 in the Loire.

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

An architecture of terraces, a tradition of CHALLEYS he narrow terraces of AOP Saint-Joseph

beauty. The key to its creation was dedication,

cling to the hillsides that frame the river

and the appellation is committed to continuing

Rhone. Historically, the growers extracted large

to maintain this hillside viticulture and to

blocks of granite or gneiss from the earth to

ensure its transmission and evolution whilst

construct the retaining walls, or challeys, of

honouring these amazing terroirs where Syrah,

this system of terraces that have created the

Marsanne and Roussanne find their most

singular identity of the Saint-Joseph vineyards.

eloquent expression. This determination has

In the context of climate change, growing vines

inspired a new generation who have chosen to

on terraces has many advantages; it combats

cultivate this granitic terroir with enthusiasm

soil erosion and offers protection against

and respect.

flooding and fires. The creation of terraces also contributes to the development of exceptional terroirs. Fashioned by

the

decomposition

the

“By the force of their labour, the growers turned these constraints into advantages, pushing themselves ever harder, always adapting their approach to the vines. They fashioned the wines in their image as they carved out a landscape of rock and granite”.

geological

substrate and human intervention, they are the signature of these vineyards and project a strong image of the appellation. This environment that is the fruit of man’s labour offers sculpted landscapes of great

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

“Heroic” viticulture, working on THE SLOPES here are terroirs that demand greater

The

effort to cultivate the soil while protecting

Environmental Sustainability and Advancement

it from the hazards of the climate. The steep

of Mountain Viticulture, have recognised the

inclines that border the Rhone have been

Saint-Joseph vineyards as “heroic”, according

transformed almost entirely by human hand

to the criteria that define this type of viticulture:

in a desire to cultivate them. These landscapes

greater

manual

labour,

Centre

for

Research,

› cultivation on terraces or steps

anthropogenic. Working in these conditions far

the

› minimum incline of 30%

shaped by human intervention are known as demands

CERVIM,

In Europe, only 5% of vineyards meet these

criteria. The producers of Saint-Joseph are

attention that is a guarantee of greater quality.

committed to preserving this type of labour-

Maintaining the walls and banks of the terraces

intensive viticulture and raising awareness of it.

represents an additional workload estimated at

And they are keeping it alive by passing on the

25% in terms of time.

skills needed to maintain the terraces and their dry-stone walls to the next generation.

« In 1994, The surface of the appellation was reduced to concentrate on the steepest and most qualitative terroirs. It was a good thing, which is today bearing fruit”.

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

Saint-Joseph GLOSSARY Challeys

Dry stone walls that support the terraces

Echalats

Stakes that support the vines that are secured to them with rush ties

Leaf thinning

Pinching out of side shoots around the bunches to aerate the vine and discourage disease.

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

VINEYARDS OF CHARACTER

Distinguishing mark: SYRAH as flagship

the reds of Saint-Joseph Red wines represent 86% of the production of AOP Saint-Joseph. Their terroir of

he red wines from Saint-Joseph are made from a

predilection: the granite parcels that proudly look down on the Rhone. Their identity:

single grape variety: Syrah. Here it grows on terraces,

powerful, spicy, peppery wines full of elegance. A close up on the soils that nourish these

and expresses perfectly the power of the appellation’s

Syrah vines, and this emblematic grape of the AOP.

granitic soils. Born of a cross between Mondeuse Blanche and Dureza, it is native to the region and is in its element on these granite soils of magmatic origin (part of the

The strength of Granite, the singularity of the AOC St-Joseph soils he strength of granite, the principal

Tournon-sur-Rhône, is made up of complex,

component of the soils of Saint-Joseph,

barren, acidic granite and marl rock formations.

gives the appellation a powerful identity.

These geological variations coupled with its

Variations across the area of the AOP contribute

anthropogenic soils create the singular identity

to the creation of a mosaic of micro climats.

of the Saint-Joseph terroir, along with its unique

The northernmost zone is composed of soft

red grape variety, Syrah.

eastern foothills of the volcanic Massif Central). Other rocks of metamorphic origin (gneiss, mica schists) give Syrah a different aromatic register. The appellation specifications allow for the addition (limited to a maximum of 10%) of the two white grapes, Marsanne and Roussanne which form the essence of the Saint-Joseph whites.

gneiss and granite on the hillsides and parts of the plain. The most southerly area, close to

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

Finesse, between LOESS AND LIMESTONE

Freshness of MARSANNE AND ROUSSANE

on micro-parcels on limestone clay or loess that are ideally

The particularity of the soils inspired the growers to vinify

suited to bringing out their minerality. These whites that

these historic varieties separately to discover the identity

are characterized by their finesse are making something

of Saint-Joseph white wines. And it was a resounding

of a name for themselves. Today they represent 14% of

success. The Marsanne is usually to be found on the

the production and cover 201 hectares. Planted on high,

lower slopes where the loess soils naturally retain their

well-ventilated slopes (up to 350 metres altitude), they

hydric reserves. The Roussanne prefers higher, limestone

produce wines of stunning freshness. Their balance is a

zones. Vinified separately or together, their organoleptic

major asset, with their low ph levels and excellent acidity/

characteristics complement each other, and produce

alcohol ratio producing harmonious wines of superb

wines that stand out from other whites of the Rhone

tension and persistence. The nature of the soils, where

Valley by their freshness and their capacity to mellow and

the outcrops of granite are sporadic, also gives a saline

complexify with age.

he heights of Tournon-sur-Rhône, Châteaubourg,

hese two emblematic grape varieties of the AOP have

Guilherand-Granges and Saint Etienne de Valoux are

always been grown here, generally planted amongst

home to the white wines of Saint-Joseph. The vines thrive

VINEYARDS OF CONTRASTS whites on the ascendant In the heart of the red terroirs dominated by Syrah, a few plants of Roussanne and Marsanne are making their voices heard. They have found favour thanks to several high-altitude plots, taking advantage of variations in the

the Syrah vines with which they were traditionally vinified.

expression to these white wines.

soils to offer their own interpretation of Saint-Joseph, in its white incarnation.

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

IDENTITY cards

VINEYARDS OF ENDEAVOUR

Marsanne

Roussanne

136 HECTARES

65 HECTARES

Origin Rhône Valley

Soils Dry, stony soils in the lower part of the appellation

Soils Stony limestone

Type of wine dry

Characteristics freshness, persistence

Characteristics finesse, elegance, and power

Aromas acacia blossom, vine peach, honey, citrus

Aromas apricot, honeysuckle, iris, hawthorn

The history and values of AOC St Joseph ORIGINS lthough traces of grape pips have been

Gauls built the low, dry-stone walls, known as

discovered dating from the neolithic age,

“chalets” or “challeys”, that give the region such

the vine plant developed in its wild state some

a distinctive appearance. These terraces were

time later, under the name ‘lambrusque’,

so successful that they are still used for growing

growing in woods, on riverbanks and around

the vines of Saint-Joseph today.

lakes in the region. Early man picked the fruit, but it only started to be cultivated after the sedentarization of the population. After the 2nd century, vines spread rapidly on the sunny right bank of the Rhone. Nothing grew easily in these rocky soils except this creeping plant, and the rare patches of earth were subject to erosion. To prevent this the

“Wine is one of the elements of our gastronomy, and a fascinating subject, for it is an integral part of our history and our culture”.

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

Emergence of the APPELLATION

SAINT-JOSEPH?

he wines of the appellation have not always

he CNAO, the official body governing French appellations,

carried this name. Until the middle of

noted in correspondence in 1939 that a demand for the

the 17th century, vineyards took the name of

Birth of the CELLAR

recognition of the Saint-Joseph appellation had first been

their terroir or their owner. The first recorded

submitted by two winemakers from Mauves in 1916, and then

mention of the name Saint-Joseph was in

again in 1923. Those in Tournon followed them in 1930.

1668, at Tournon. The Jesuits, who owned the

On Christmas Eve, the 24th of December 1938, the Syndicate

vines of the College of Tournon, had many

for the Protection of the Saint-Joseph Appellation was

schools named after this saint who had raised

created and registered at the sub-prefecture of Tournon sur

Jesus, and had become the patron saint of

Rhone. The appellation finally received official recognition

educational institutions. At Tournon, in honour

he time of the Great Invasions, between the 4th and 9th centuries, was a black period

for the vine. It was no longer cultivated except by monks who gave the appellations their names of religious significance, and protected them, as with neighbouring Hermitage. The wine needed to be hidden from plundering

and confirmation of its geographical area on 15th June 1956.

of the Cardinal, it seemed only natural to give

At that time it covered 6 villages and a total of 90 hectares.

the name of Saint-Joseph to the College’s finest estate. It was after the sale of these terroirs that

At the end of the eighties, there were 500 hectares in the

the name Saint-Joseph became associated

Saint Joseph appellation, mainly situated on the lower slopes.

with the parcels of vines cultivated on the right

But in 1994 a vast restructuration project set out to reconquer

bank of the Rhone, around Mauve and Tournon

the more qualitative terroirs, high on the steep, granite

sur Rhone.

slopes of the Rhone. The winemakers together embarked on the meticulous work of selecting the best terroirs, and

invaders, and so the local peasants had the idea

re-sculpting terraces out of the hillsides to enable them to

of digging down beneath their houses to create

cultivate the granite soils that are so characteristic of the

spaces where they could store their barrels.

appellation. Today the AOC covers almost 1,400 hectares of

The wine kept so well there that the practice

vines.

endured, and these holes became cellars.

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

A new generation ON THE SHOULDERS OF GIANTS

TRANSMISSION preserving vineyard terraces for posterity eneration after generation, it is essential to

from the past to create the wines of the future.

keep telling the story of these vineyards, to

To cultivate a vineyard is also to perpetuate the

share the commitment of previous generations,

cycle of transmission of a heritage, of skills, of

take stock of progress to ensure the continuing

techniques, of terroirs, and ultimately, of man.

rom the beginnings of the appellation in 1956, this tradition of onward transmission

coupled with collective effort has been the key to its success. In its turn, the new generation is

existence of the AOP, and oversee its evolution

constructing the future by building on the past.

in the face of numerous changes. Its story is

Drawing strength from acquired experience,

one of the timeless gestures of the grower in

these young winemakers are shaping their

his vines. Of manual skills and the experience

““What saves a man is to take a step. Then another step. Always the same step, over and over.” Antoine de Saint Exupéry, Wind, Sand, and Stars

of innumerable vintages, passed down from generation to generation. It is the collective memory of the appellation, a memory in

own vision of this heroic appellation, built by the sweat of their forefathers’ brows on the highest and best terroirs, to take Saint Joseph wines to ever greater heights.

perpetual movement that grows and learns

Just like those before them, they are injecting new vitality and fresh ideas into Saint-Joseph. Motivated and prepared to meet all challenges, they are working to raise the profile and the quality of these AOP wines.

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

A cut above AOP FIN GRAS DU MÉZENC

his unique beef was awarded AOP status for its exceptional taste and its incredible

marbling. Its zone of production spreads across 28 communes between the Haut-Loire and the Ardèche on the meadows of Mont Mézenc, at 1,100 metres altitude. This meat owes its unique flavour to the rich diversity of plants that grow on these mountain pastures. Over 300 species of aromatic and medicinal plants impart their flavour to the meat of the cattle that graze on

VINEYARDS OF TASTE Eating and drinking in the land of good taste

istinctly rural, with a Mediterranean accent, the Ardèche is bursting with culinary delights. Its flavours reflect the tradition of local agriculture and

home cooking, filled with sunshine, and the fragrance of the rocks, hay and grass. Discover three specialities from the Ardèche, the Loire and the Haute-Loire, and

them (Aubrac, Salers, Limousine et Charolais). PERFECT PAIRING: SAINT-JOSEPH RED Information: Association Fin Gras du Mézenc www.aoc-fin-gras-du-mezenc.com

some astonishing pairings with AOP Saint-Joseph wines.

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

From AOP chestnuts to MARRON GLACÉ

Picodon THE APPELLATION GOAT’S CHEESE

chestnut orchards grow on terraces built of dry-stone

ranging from 40 to 2,450 metres. This variety of

walls. The chestnuts are harvested in the autumn,

landscapes and vegetation gives the Picodon its

between 15th September and 15th November, and

range of rich flavours. This little cheese with a big

gathered after they have fallen off the tree either by

personality has been designated an AOC since

hand (mind your fingers!) or in nets that are spread

1983. The same ancestral methods have been

on the ground. The fruits are then sorted for quality by

used to make it with whole, raw milk since the

putting them in water and discarding those that float.

14th century. Its maturity is what determines its

They are then sorted again by hand and calibrated.

colour and strength, ranging from fresh, semi-

Those used to make chestnut flour are dried in

mature, and mature, to mature washed-rind

traditional drying sheds known as clèdes before being

cheese (washed in wine for an intense flavour).

ground. The work is more complex when it comes to

What was once just a local product consumed

marron glacés, that require no less than 16 different

by the farmers themselves has now become the

stages to produce this candied delicacy that is full of

standard bearer for the region’s traditions and

the soft sweetness of the Ardèche chestnut.

terroir, full of authentic flavour.

PERFECT PAIRING: SAINT-JOSEPH RED OR WHITE

PERFECT PAIRING: SAINT-JOSEPH WHITE OR RED DEPENDING ON THE RIPENESS OF THE CHEESE

he Ardèche chestnut, grown in 118 villages of

he production zone of the Picodon stretches

the Ardèche, has benefitted from AOP status

from the Rhone Valley to the peaks of the

since 2006. Just like AOP Saint-Joseph, some of the

Vercors and the Ardèche mountains, at altitudes

Informations: Comité Interprofessionnel de la Châtaigne d’Ardèche - www.chataigne-ardeche.com

Informations: Syndicat du Picodon AOP - www.picodon-aop.fr

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

PAIRINGS FROM NEAR and far

poilt

for

choice

between

traditional

cooking,

Charcuterie & SAINT-JOSEPH REDS

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

Mature cheeses & SAINT-JOSEPH WHITES

A local speciality: Caillettes

Ripe Picodon, old Comté, Parmesan,

Raised on every farm, and used to make

bistronomic fare, and the diversity

perfectly with the appellation’s white

traditional dishes and hams, the pig is

wines. It’s a pairing that enlivens the

indissociable from the Ardèche peasant

the appellation provide multiple,

tastebuds with its fresh, smooth, salinity

culture. Caillettes are a kind of country

original pairings. Whether with the

that highlights the umami. The rich, salty

paté with herbs, and sometimes cabbage,

power and elegance of Syrah or the

fattiness of the cheeses, and all the evolved

made with 500g pork belly, 250g pork liver,

freshness, salinity, and persistence

flavours developed through ageing make

chopped and seasoned with garlic and

of the whites, the unique finesse of

the cheeseboard the ideal partner for a

onion and wrapped in crepine, before being

the wines of AOP Saint-Joseph allow

white Saint-Joseph.

baked in the oven for half an hour at 200°C.

them to accompany all occasions

Best served cold.

charcuterie, world

plate

gastronomic

cuisine,

the

wines

Rigotte, blue cheeses…. Cheese matches

with elegance.

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

PAIRINGS

From elsewhere

Sushis & SAINT-JOSEPH WHITES

Preserved duck spring rolls & SAINT-JOSEPH REDS

France consumes more sushi than any • Remove the fat from two

•H eat two teaspoons of

preserved duck thighs

duck fat in a pan and

and pull apart the meat,

fry the spring rolls until

discarding the skin.

crispy.

• Crush a tablespoon of

•A bsorb the surplus fat on

coriander seeds and

a piece of kitchen roll and

chop a few sprigs of fresh

serve hot with a glass of

coriander and mint.

Saint-Joseph red.

other country in Europe. This Japanese delicacy of exceptional refinement (also including makis and sashimi) needs to be matched with a wine of great finesse. The freshness and salinity of Saint-Joseph whites will complement the delicate flavour of raw fish, and sushi made with scallops, bream, salmon, or sea bass highlight the finesse of aromas of the

• Mix together and season

appellation’s Marsanne and Roussanne

with salt and pepper.

wines.

• Spoon the duck meat into the centre of several sheets of filo pastry and roll into cigar shapes.

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

AIDE MEMOIRE L’AOC SAINT-JOSEPH key numbers

EXPORT

Creation of the AOC Saint-Joseph

Extension of the appellation area to 26 communes

Redefinition of the appellation area

REDS/SYRAH 86% | 1,262 ha

WHITES

14% | 201 ha Composed of MARSANNE 68% | 136 ha

ROUSSANNE

UNITED STATES

or 6.7 MILLION BOTTLES

INDEPENDENTS

NEGOCIANTS WINE COOPERATIVES

32% | 65ha

HARVESTS

1,463 ha

BELGIUM

50,890 hl PRODUCERS

TOTAL SURFACE

GRAPE VARIETIES

PRINCIPAL COUNTRIES

REDS

87% | 44,280 hl

Or 5.9 MILLION BOTTLES

WHITES

13% | 6,610 hl

or 881,133 BOUTEILLES

AVERGE YIELD

37.1 hl/ha

The vineyards that conquered the granite slopes of the rhone

Press CONTACT Rouge Granit - Laurent Courtial Manon Vergnier - mvergnier@rouge-granit.fr - 07 77 14 73 68 Lucie Biesse - lbiesse@rouge-granit.fr - 06 04 64 81 74 Lucile Peyric - lpeyric@rouge-granit.fr - 06 75 39 28 81