Complete Guide to Tarija Bolivia by Grupo Rosario

TABLE OF CONTENTS ABOUT TARIJA

ATTRACTIONS

ACTIVITIES

TRAVEL PLANNING

GETTING HERE

ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS

WHAT TO BRING

ABOUT TURISBUS

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015 "

ABOUT TARIJA Located in the south of Bolivia, not too far from the deserted southwest area of the country, Tarija is one Bolivian city primed to take center stage. Once known as a backwater Chaco town, Tarija is now the second fastest growing city in the country. With a Mediterranean climate and a relaxed youthful atmosphere it’s easy to see why many would be drawn to the southern city full on charm. However, palm tree lined boulevards and a vibrant population are just a few of the reasons Tarija is experiencing a well-deserved boom. What attracts most visitors and Bolivians to Tarija is wine.

Bolivian wines are rarely sold outside of the country, but the grapes grown in and around the Tarija region are remarkably good. Nestled in the same wine-producing belt as the more renowned vineyards of Argentina and Chile, the smooth quality of Bolivian vintages shouldn’t be much of a surprise. A number of superb vineyards dot Tarija’s countryside as well as the adjacent El Valle de la Concepcion, which together create the highest wine-producing region in the world. Along with wine, Tarija takes pride in its culinary traditions, the efforts of which are seen in a number of impeccable restaurants and shops that serve the foods best paired with wine: steak and cheese. Couple Tarija’s wine-producing capabilities with delicious cuisine and a vibrant yet cozy atmosphere and it’s no wonder many of the visitors that come here rarely ever want to leave. Currently considered to be off Bolivia’s beaten path, don’t expect Tarija to remain that way for long.

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015 "

ATTRACTIONS Wineries The main purpose behind most trips to Tarija is to visit the increasingly popular wineries that are located throughout the region. From light rosés to floral whites and robust reds, Bolivia’s wine region grows it all. Many grape varietals grow well in the region, but the Bolivian vintners have a particular talent at cultivating the reds. Because of the altitude of the Bolivian wine region and the proximity of the area to the equatorial sun, wines produced in Tarija and El Valle de la Concepcion take on a much different flavor than those produced elsewhere, making a trip to the region especially interesting for those who have a passion for wine. In terms of smoothness and balance, Bolivian winemakers claim their vintages hit the same level of quality in two years that wines from other locations reach at six. Bolivia’s wine region is not large and because so it is easy for visitors to tour and taste a number of vineyards and vintages in just a few days. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah and Shiraz are the most popular varietals and also the Bolivian wines local vintners prepare best. Dozens of wineries in the area produce these varieties and many more. Campos de Solana, Bodegas la Concepcion, Casa Grande, Casa Real and Kohlberg are some of the most popular and well-respected producers and all offer guided vineyard tours and tastings. During the harvest season, when the vineyards are in full bloom, visiting Tarija and El Valle de la Concepcion is an especially relaxing and enjoyable holiday.

The City Center The city of Tarija is in and of itself a worthy attraction and reason enough to visit the southern region of Bolivia. An addictive energy is apparent from the moment one steps foot in the city proper as youthful crowds share the city’s boulevards with palm trees and fill Tarija’s sunny plazas. Sophisticated restaurants serving international and local cuisine line the picturesque thoroughfares and sleek bars keep Tarija’s youth busy through the night. Though Tarija has an enthusiastic and lively ambiance it is at its heart a laid back city, remaining a world away from hectic La Paz and other more visited cities in the country.

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015 "

Visiting the contemporary art galleries or traditional shops that are spread throughout the city can easily fill a morning or afternoon. Likewise, Tarija boasts a number of museums, churches and other cultural spaces worthy of a visit. The gilded Casa Dorada House was built by one of the city’s first wealthy merchants and today is an interesting display of gaudy architecture, furnishing and design. The Iglesia de San Roque, Iglesia de San Juan and Basilica de San Francisco additionally provide glimpses into 17th-18th century life and worship in the city. Situated on a perch towering over the city, the Iglesia de San Roque is architecturally the most unusual church in Tarija and one of Bolivia’s as well. History buffs looking to explore a more ancient history can visit the Museo de Arqueologia y Paleontologia which houses a fascinating collection of artifacts dating back to prehistoric times. The exhibit includes the well-preserved remains of several primitive animals that lived in the region as well as displays of early geology and prehistoric human activity. Travelers interested in the local wine but who don’t have time to make it to the vineyards can visit one of the many specialty wine stores in the city. The educated owners are happy to help visitors pick out the perfect vintage and pair each bottle with delectable and locally sourced food products. The owner of La Vinoteca Tarijena on the corner of Plaza Sucre is especially helpful and knowledgeable in this regard. Additionally, for those who enjoy exploring the culinary landscape of a country, a visit to Tarija will not disappoint. Located near the Argentinean border, the Argentine tradition of perfectly seasoned and grilled bife de chorizo and other paradilla, or grilled meat, has made it to Bolivia and found a home in Tarija. The city has a completely different gastronomy than the rest of the country and is a must taste for culinary inclined travelers.

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015

Markets Bolivia is known for its colorful markets and those in Tarija are especially vibrant. Both the Mercado Central and Campesino Market feature local products and streets eats unavailable elsewhere and unique to the region. A trip to either would be incomplete without sampling the Tarija specialties of dulce de lacayote, or caramelized squash, and aniseed and clove pancakes known locally as tojori along with any number of deliciously sweet street side pastries and savory freshly prepared bites. If you’re looking for a lunch of presidential status, be sure to seek out the small stand run by Doña Pastora whose saice, a traditional and spicy meat dish, has pleased the appetites of a number of current and past Bolivian leaders. More than just a way to fill up for the day, visiting the markets of Tarija allows outsiders to witness a slice of authentic southern Bolivian life. Whereas many markets in the Western world are only open once a week, in Tarija market life is a daily affair. The markets serve as the epicenter of local activity; local women in native dress come to shop, sell and mingle with one another, running the city through their daily market interactions.

Festivals For a town fueled by wine it is not surprising that Tarija boasts a number of Bolivia’s wildest celebrations. Each March the city and El Valle de la Concepcion host the Fiesta de la Uva, celebrating the region’s cherished grapes and coinciding with the annual harvest. The festival, dating back to the mid 1980’s first began as a small celebratory affair between a few of the

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015

wine makers from the valley. Today, the event is an all out fiesta, highlighting the artistic and cultural endeavors of the area as well as, of course, wine. The colorful Carnaval celebration held in Tarija is another one of the country’s finest and a beloved local tradition. Beginning the two Thursdays before Carnaval, the city erupts for the Dia de Compadres and the Dia de Comadres, where all the men and women in Tarija parade through the city, making a statement out of exchanging sweet cakes and gifts. On the actual day of Carnaval, the city once again explodes in revelry; a mass parade takes to the streets showcasing the regions’ folkloric traditions through dance, costume, music, singing, eating and drinking. A sarcastic ritual burial of the devil marks the end of the raucous affair. While the interring of the devil may be the official end of Carnaval, festival season in Tarija is nowhere near over. September’s Fiesta de la San Roque is a highlight on the Bolivian event schedule and one of the most popular and important festivities in the country. The celebration honors the Tarija’s patron saint with a number of vibrant religious processions as well as traditional chuncho dancing. Approximately 500 of Tarija’s male population take to the streets, dressed in multicolored robes and scarves, their heads adorned with spectacular headdresses fashioned out of vibrant feathers and bright beads and charms. Additionally, an annual rodeo held in Parque Heroes de la Tablada speaks to the areas guacho heritage and include all the events one would expect in a cowboy driven celebration. An interesting if not offbeat Serrano Ham and Cheese celebration rounds out Tarija’s unique festival calendar.

ACTIVITIES Restaurants Tourists interested in Bolivia’s unique gastronomy need to look no further than the city of Tarija. Dozens of restaurants serving world-class fare are located within the city’s borders, dotting the quaint streets and squares that give Tarija its charming character. The Argentinean tradition of beef has taken root in Tarija and a number of restaurants serve perfectly grilled and seasoned cuts that compete with some of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires and the surrounding estancias. El Fogon del Gringo is a favorite with both locals and tourists alike, and rightfully so. Along with exceptional meat the restaurant has a well-stocked salad bar, a good selection of local wines and an appealing ambiance. Cabana Don Pedro and Churrasqueria El Rodeo are other popular options for those wanting a delicious iron infusion. As far as international fare with a welcoming atmosphere goes, it’s hard to beat perennially packed Taverna Gattopardo. The restaurant attracts the local community and visitors with its

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015

consistently good food and reliable service. Additionally, Café Mokka serves up tasty light plates and inventive cocktails in a stylish, if not slightly unusual, setting. Along with Tarija’s many restaurants, wandering and eating ones way through the comedor sections of the Mercado Central and Campesino Market is an authentic way to taste the unique flavors of the region. The foods found in the markets of Tarija are unlike that of the rest of the country and sampling the local flavors is an interesting, enjoyable and filling activity.

Nightlife Tarija is a young city with no shortage of nighttime activities to entertain the youthful population. Once the sun goes down, many of the city’s popular restaurants turn into crowded bars perfect for taking down a singani laced cocktail or glass of local wine. Many of the best bars and clubs are centered around Plaza Sucre in the heart of the city. La Candela is a well-liked spot with the younger generation and has a great atmosphere while also serving up delicious food, inventive drinks and live music on weekend. La Cava de Strocco provides a similar experience for a slightly older clientele and in a slightly more refined setting. Likewise, resto-bar Club Social is the place to go for the trendy Tarija nightlife scene.

Shopping Stemming out from Plaza Sucre, the city’s streets are filled with curious boutiques selling everything from contemporary paintings to more traditional religious necessities. Small local markets that surround the Mercado Central add to Tarija’s varied shopping landscape. Additionally, a number of shops around Plaza Sucre sell local wine and the perfect cheese and meat pairings to accompany them. It would be a mistake to leave Tarija without purchasing a bottle or two. Shoppers take note: though Tarija is booming it is still characterized by small town charm. Along with that, the Spanish inspired tradition of taking a mid-day siesta is in full effect. Many of Tarija’s small shops, thus most shops, close mid-day from around noon until 15:00 or 16:00. Plan your shopping schedule accordingly as it is likely you won’t be able to do much during this time.

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015

TRAVEL PLANNING WEATHER Tarija experiences a fairly mild Mediterranean climate. The winter season is characterized by cool dry winds and an arid landscape, while the summer months of November through March are marked by warm air and lush greenery. While climatic differences do exist between the two seasons, the weather in Tarija is fairly pleasant year round; the cold of winter is never quite bone chilling as it can be in La Paz and the dryness of the air allows for the heat to at least not feel stifling. Visitors who want to see the vineyards and harvest in full effect, should time their visit to Tarija to coincide with the summer months when the vineyards are robust with greenery and the vines are in full bloom. March is an especially exciting time to visit, as along with having ideal weather, it is the month of the annual harvest. The vineyards will be in full work mode and a number of festivals occur during that time giving Tarija an even more celebratory feel than usual.

MONEY & ATMS Bolivians prefer the national Boliviano over other world currencies. US Dollars are still accepted but with more regulations and at a lower rate than in the past. As of July 2013, USD$1 is equivalent to 6.9 Bs. Unlike some other destinations in Bolivia, accessing cash and ATM machines in Tarija is not a problem. There are a number of banks located around the city and cash machines are ubiquitous in Tarija’s many squares. Travelers can also exchange money at various casas de cambio located throughout Tarija. Additionally, Banco Bisa and Banco Nacional will exchange traveler’s checks for cash. There are no ATM machines or exchange facilities at the airport.

MEDICAL SERVICES Most of the major cities in Bolivia have available medical assistance. In Tarija, Hospital Regional San Juan de Dios can take care of most medical needs. In addition to the public hospital, there are a number of privately run clinics in the city that provide good medical assistance and prescription services. For major treatments or specialized care and operations however, it is recommended to travel to the larger cities of Cochabamba or Santa Cruz. Tarija is also home to a dental school and as a result a number of qualified dentists practice throughout the city if any dental problems should arise during your stay. "9

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015

For those with international medical insurance, private hospitals can fill out a form for you verifying your expenses and the medical treatment you received during your stay there. However payment for medical assistance will still need to be made by cash or Credit Card (Visa and Master Card preferable).

SAFETY Tarija is relatively safe, but as in the rest of Bolivia visitors should be careful when carrying valuables, although instances of assault or robbery (even pickpockets) are relatively unheard of. The police station is located at the corner of Campero and Calle 15 and the authorities there can help with any problems should there be any during your stay in the city.

INTERNET Internet connection in Bolivia is not very fast and is quite expensive, although it is widely available in all major cities. There are a number of Internet cafes in Tarija, and many restaurants and hotels offer free WiFi service. At Internet cafes, expect to pay between 3-4 Bs an hour for a decent connection. Additionally, local SIM cards with activated Internet service will have no problem connecting to the local 3G networks.

LAUNDRY Laundry service can be found in Tarija and is also available at many hotels. Several by the kilo laundries offer services including day of turnaround times. Prices vary between 12-15 Bs per kilo. Lavanderia La Esmeralda on calle La Madrid offers fast, friendly and reliable service.

VISAS A large number of foreign nationals are not required to have a visa to enter Bolivia, however you should check at the Bolivian embassy in your country to see if you need one or not before arriving in the country. American citizens are now required to apply for a visa, which is not difficult to get and the Bolivian embassy or at the airport and costs USD$135 per person. Only Americans can purchase this visa at the border or at the airport. A passport is required for entry as is a filled and signed visa application form. It is advised to check with the embassy for up-to-date visa regulations before coming to Bolivia. "10 "

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015

43"

BORDER CROSSINGS Some Bolivian borders are quite crowded because of the number of travelers and locals commuting in and out of Bolivia. If you are coming to Bolivia from a country where a visa is required, it is important to remember to still have a copy of your passport and have a photocopy of the visa given at the Bolivian embassy. No extra charges are should be applied. It is advised to never leave your luggage unattended at the border crossings, especially if you do not have a travel agency helping you with the paper work and transferring your luggage from one country to the other. From Tarija it is possible to travel to both Argentina and Paraguay via public bus service.

TIPPING Local Bolivians do not regularly tip at restaurants or when using a taxi, but in the tourism industry, guides, drivers, porters, bellboys, room service and anyone providing service to tourist will expect a tip from foreign visitors. Of course this will depend on the efficiency and quality of service that has been provided. Customary tips for such services include USD$10 to a guide and USD$5 for the driver. For longer tours it is appreciated to tip is around USD$20 a day for the guide and USD$10 for the driver.

GETTING HERE Tarija has both an international airport and bus terminal providing easy access from across Bolivia and the region.

FROM LA PAZ a) By Plane: The fastest mode of transportation between La Paz and Tarija is to fly. From La Paz, Amaszonas Airlines offers one departure a day at 15:10 everyday except Saturdays when the flight leaves La Paz at 10:00. Travel between the two cities takes approximately one hour and costs about USD$120 one-way. Additionally, there is one departure daily in the return direction, from Tarija back to La Paz. The flight departs Tarija at 16:50 everyday except Saturday when the flight leaves the Tarija airport at 11:40.

"11

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015

44"

b) By Bus: Arriving to Tarija by bus from La Paz is another option for travelers looking to save. A handful of companies offer bus service between the two cities and the trip takes approximately 24 hours departing La Paz in the late afternoon and arriving in Tarija at around the same time the next day. Sometimes the route travels through Oruro or Potosi and can take additional time. The cost for one-way transport is about 100 Bs. However, because of the general road quality in Bolivia, the ride can be a rough and uncomfortable one. This option is not recommended for most tourists.

FROM SANTA CRUZ a) By Plane: Aerocon and Amaszonas Airlines offer flights almost daily to Tarija from Santa Cruz via Yacuiba. Departures on Aerocon leave Santa Cruz at 06:45 or 13:20, arriving in Tarija approximately two hours later. Amaszonas flights depart Santa Cruz at 10:45, with a flight time of around one hour. TAM, a branch of the military airline, operates a flight every Sunday as well, departing Santa Cruz at 14:00. The same airlines offer returns from Tarija back to Santa Cruz, usually departing Tarija around noon. Expect to pay roughly USD$90-150 for a one-way ticket. b) By Bus: Bus service between Santa Cruz to Tarija takes is available daily. The route takes about 24 hours and costs between 90-115 Bs depending on the particular bus company chosen. Many lines make stops in Yacuiba or Villamontes on the way. As with the drive from La Paz, it is important to note that the roads in Bolivia are often not of the best condition and the ride can sometimes be quite the uncomfortable one.

FROM EVERYWHERE ELSE Amaszonas Airlines, Aerocon and Tam offer connections to Tarija from cities across the country. Flying to Tarija is the quickest and most comfortable mode of transportation. However, the city is also widely connected to the rest of Bolivia as well as Argentina and Paraguay via bus. The bus services offered are often connecting with transfers required, but if you have the time and don’t mind occasional discomfort, taking the bus is an interesting way to see many parts of the country and the region inaccessible otherwise.

ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS SUNBURN & HEAT EXHAUSTION With Bolivia location close to the equator, the sun is extremely intense even when it may not feel that way. This is also true during both the summer and winter seasons. Regardless of

"12

All content. © Grupo Rosario 2015

4!"

when you are in the country it is important to wear sufficient sunscreen, frequently reapplying to protect against the strong rays. Additionally, using sunglasses and wearing a hat can help prevent sunstroke. Lastly, it is also recommended to always carry a bottle of water, as all areas of Bolivia may not have drinking water available. If you begin to feel lightheaded or experience symptoms of sunstroke, make sure to stop and rest in the shade with some water close at hand.

INFECTIOS DISEASE When traveling to South America in general, it is important to keep in mind the infectious diseases that are endemic to the area. Most of the infectious diseases that one can catch in Bolivia involve insect bites. a) Malaria: Transmitted through mosquito bites, Malaria is found across the South American continent. Mosquitos usually bite between dusk and dawn. Along with using bug spray with DEET and wearing long sleeves and pants when possible, it is recommended to take malaria pills when visiting the region. Once weekly Mefloquine (Lariam) and daily Atovaquone/Proguanil (Malarone) are the best prescriptions to take while in Bolivia. While Doxycycline will protect against Malaria, the pill can cause an increased sensitivity to the sun resulting in inflated sunburn reactions. Symptoms of Malaria include a sudden high fever, chills, sweats, body ache, fatigue and vomiting or diarrhea. If you experience any of these symptoms, it is recommended to get to a doctor as quickly as possible. b) Dengue Fever: Dengue Fever is another infectious disease transmitted through mosquito bites. The viral infection is transmitted through the Aedes mosquitos, which tend to bite during the daytime. Aedes mosquitos like to dwell near human habitation and especially around artificial water supplies. There is no treatment currently available for Dengue so it is essential to take precautions against mosquito bites while in South America. The best measures of protection to take include using a bug spray with the chemical DEET as well as wearing long sleeves and pants during your stay. Dengue Fever is characterized by the appearance of flu-like symptoms including fever, muscle ache, joint pain, nausea and vomiting. If you experience any of these during your stay, visit a doctor immediately. c) Yellow Fever: Yellow Fever is transmitted through mosquitos dwelling in forested areas and is a serious, life threatening disease. All visitors to Bolivia require proof of Yellow Fever vaccination to enter the country. The vaccine can only be administered at approved Yellow Fever vaccination centers and should be taken at least ten days prior

"13

to visiting a Tarija will have been vaccinated, preventing mosquito bites is an additional precaution to take.

ANIMAL BITES It is important to avoid direct contact with all animals in order to prevent the chance of any disease, injury or illness as a result. Any bites or scratches should be immediately washed and medically treated. Some tips before you go: Make sure your vaccinations are update before you travel Advise children of the dangers and make sure to supervise them whenever around animals Alert your doctor after your trip if any scratch or bite occurred while traveling

• • •

FOOD The leading cause of illness for most travelers is disease from food and water. Here are a few tips for safe eating and drinking to pay attention to: • • • • • •

Wash your hands as often as possible and travel with some hand sanitizer if possible Make sure that your water is bottled with a fastened cap or boiled before drinking Avoiding ice cubes and tap water is recommended whenever possible Only eat fully cooked meals bought from street vendors and restaurants Avoid non-pasteurized dairy products Vomiting and diarrhea can occur from food and water diseases, so make sure to purchase diarrhea medication before your trip to treat mild cases

WHAT TO BRING Luckily, Tarija experiences a rather mild climate year round. However, at night or if the surazo winds are blowing through, the city can get chilly. Packing for a variety of conditions while trying to keep your bags light can be a challenge. The best recommendation is to consider bringing layers that can easily be added and removed based on current temperatures. A heavier sweatshirt for the occasional cool night is recommended and can prove to be surprisingly useful. A simple key to remember is that base layers (lightweight polyester or synthetic) manage moisture, middle layers (fleece or wool) are meant for insulating and outer layers (rain/wind shells) protect you from them the elements such as wind.

"14

If you are under specific medical supervision, make sure you bring enough medicine with you since all prescriptions may not be readily available under Bolivian pharmacy system. Along with your prescription medication, insect repellant containing DEET as well as anti-malarial pills are recommended. A suggested packing list is provided below: • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Comfortable boots/shoes with good ankle support. Light weight trousers/shorts and t-shirts Long-sleeved shirt (also helps protect from the sun and insect bites) Lightweight underwear and socks (thermal underwear can be extremely beneficial) Warm sweatshirt or sweater Rain shell Hat or cap to protect from the sun Prescription medication including anti-malarial pills Insect repellent with DEET Sun tan lotion, lip balm, sunglasses Money belt Camera with spare batteries or a charger Rubber sandals (useful for in the shower) Water bottle

"15

ABOUT TURISBUS

We are one of the most important operators of Incoming Tourism in Bolivia, with decades of experience in culture and nature trips around Bolivia and southern Peru, providing services operated by us and from selected tour operators that allow us to provide responsible, efficient and dependable services. We develop strategic partnerships to support communities and local enterprises of lake transportation and food in Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna, boosting job creation and tourism development in Bolivia. We have an excellent team of professionals that guarantee the quality of services, and turn every customer into a friend. We have a large fleet of modern vehicles of different capacities, in addition to trekking equipment that with the work of the guides team and sales staff, become our greatest assets available to the customer. We are recommended in the tourist guides South American Handbook, Bolivia Handbook, Guide Routard, Lonely Planet and many more. However, the best recommendations are from our own customers every day.

CONTACT US La Paz, Bolivia & ,OODPSX Tel (591-2) 245 1341 Tel (591-2) 245 1658 La Paz - Bolivia experiences.turisbus@gruporosario.travel

Visit us at online:

www.GrupoRosario.com

Santiago, Chile Ebro 2869 Dept. 801, Las Condes Tel (56-2) 2717 4645 Cel (599) 8201 9838 Santiago - Chile gerencia.chile@gruporosario.travel

""16