No. 16 // jesen 2017. // Besplatan primerak
_ Spring/summer 2018
www.textilue.rs
Intro
SS/Trends
Textil Design Studio
Lace Love CIP S BARBARA FOIL DSN # 1514 # WHITE OFF SILVER
Samo aktivan čovek želi da živi sto godina - kaže japanska poslovica. Da li ste čuli za Ikigai? Zašto nam je baš on poslužio kao inspiracija za narednu sezonu? Da li je to trenutni globalni trend ili dalekosežnije preispitivanje koje će unaprediti i ulepšati i svet i pojedinca? Ikigai je japanski koncept koji bi se grubo mogao prevesti kao radost zbog stalne zauzetosti ili razlog tj. svrha zbog koje živimo. Kažu da žitelji Okinave, ostrva u Japanu sa najvećim brojem stogodišnjaka, smatraju ikigai glavnim razlogom zbog kojeg ustaju ujutru. Naučiti da volite ono što radite i pretvoriti taj čin u čisto zadovoljstvo koje zaustavlja vreme je pravi ikigai! Trendovi, inspiracije, sugestije sa narednih strana, proizašli su iz naše “radosne zauzetosti”. Uronite u narednu sezonu sa Textl materijalima, igrajući se smelim kombinacijama boja, razigranim stilovima i arhitektonskim formama. Otkrijte šta Vam najviše prija, šta Vas inspiriše, gde vreme staje! Smejte se i uživajte dok kreirate, stvarate i sigurno će vas prepoznati. Budite velikodušni i delite sa drugima, dozvolite im da prepoznaju vas ikigai. U trendu je izgubiti pojam o vremenu, ne težiti savršenosti i pomoći drugima. Kompanija Textil želi da podeli svoj ikigai sa vama u nadi da ćemo vas inspirisati za “ razlog zbog koga ustajem ujutru”. Budite deo našeg kreativnog tima i pratite nas i na novom sajtu. Jelena Pavlović, kreativni direktor
Instagram. Saznajte putanje našeg kreativnog tima. Od naše terase u kancelariji u Užicu, do sajmova u Parizu i Šangaju. Posetili smo veličanstvenu izložbu Dior-a, i saznali šta je zapravo new look. Pratite nas na društvenim mrežama.
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CIP N LLACE HELLENA DSN # HIGH FASHION RED
CIP S PLISE DSN # 4310 # BLACK
CIP S CADEAU PRT # 18438 # FLOWERS WHITE OFF
CIP S CHEMICAL C DSN # 18 # DESERT TAUPE
New Nautical KOŠULJAR CO POPLIN PRT NEW, DSN # 6555 # LIGHT BLUE
KEPER STRECH SATEN NEW PRT L DSN # 29 # STRIPE BLACK
KOŠULJAR CO STRIPE PEARLS DSN # SMALL STRIPE BLUE
KEPER STRECH SATEN PRT, DSN # 39 # NAVY WHITE
KOŠULJAR VIS CHALIS PRT DSN#18342 # NAVY WHITE
Gold Shine POLY KNIT PLISE FOIL # BLACK GOLD
BUKLE PEPITO GOLD DSN # 0175 # BEIGE 1
ŠLJOKICE S IRIS DSN # 0665 # OFF WHITE GOLD
ŠTOF V CREP SPAN FOIL # BLACK GOLD
ŠLJOKICE S PLISE DSN # 0960 # GOLD
TextilUzice
SS/Trends
Textil Design Studio
Côte d’azur POLY KNIT PLISE LUX FOIL # BEIGE SILVER
KOŠULJAR S BUBBLE PLISE # 2168 # LIGHT CAMEO
POLY KNIT PLISE FOIL H # SILVER
PLIS S PLISE. # SILVER
ŠLJOKICE S PLISE DSN # 0960 # GOLD
Utility Boilersuit KOŠULJAR VIS CHALIS PRT DSN # 904 # LEAVES WHITE 1
JQD CO HERRERA DSN # 5213 # PALE MAUVE WHITE OFF
ŠTOF P MELONI, #809 # VERDENT GREEN
KEPER STREČ SATEN # 1720 # DUSKY GREEN BLUE
ŠTOF V PRADA # 1032 # PALE MAUVE
Golden Amber PONTE ROMA VIS LIGHT J # 117 # NUGGET GOLD
CIP S LACE LINDA DSN # 02975 # AUTUMN GLAZE
MULTICOLOR DSN # 2004 # PINK
ŠTOF S FINE TWILL PRT DSN # GARDEN BLACK
CIP S PRT DSN # 0077 # FLOWERS GOLD
Instagram.
TextilUzice
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Fairs
Dior
Premiere Vision Svake sezone sajam Premiere Vision Paris donosi jedinstvene modne procene, ekskluzivne sezonske informacije i smernice, u okviru 13. foruma na 5,000 m2 posvećenih modi. Najnoviji Premiere Vision predviđa da će se sezona jesen zima 1819 šarmantno i uporno pitati: “šta je normalno?” i okrenuti poštovanju životne sredine, ali da će to biti izuzetno kreativna i velikodušna sezona sa odlučno modernim i seksi siluetama. Kada su boje u pitanju nastaje apsolutna pobuna protiv crno-bele dominacije. Igra se vibrirajućim bojama, novim izgledom, suptilnim prelivima. Za materijale postoji nekoliko osnovnih smernica: čvrsti ali veoma fini majterijali; matirane materijale zamenjuju svetlucavi i sjajni; nekonformistički humor se pojavljuje kroz nekonvencionalne dekoracije; dodir bizarnog kroz svet fantazije i apstraktnih univerzuma koji se pojavljuju kroz printove.
TexWorld
Messe Frankfurt France je svetski lider u profesionalnim sajmovima koji je posvećen materijalima i pokriva celokupni vrednosni lanac tekstilne industrije. Textil tim je posetio Messe Frankfurt France sajmove u septembru 2017. godine, zajedno sa brojnim internacionalnim izlagačima i posetiocima. Od luksuznih materijala, preko najnovijih tehnoloških inovacija i brojnih susreta proizvođača i modnih stručnjaka sa različitih krajeva sveta, Messe Frankfurt France je opravdao svoj prestižni status. Ono što je bilo nesumnjivo u ovom izdanju sajma jeste povećani interes za ovaj događaj, čak 13,9% više u odnosu na septembar prošle godine. Trend ukazuje na nesumnjivi profesionalizam ovog pariskog događaja. Sa 83% internacionalnih posetilaca, rezultati demonstriraju opšti uspon u globalnoj ekonomiji i ponovo uspostavljeno poverenje.
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70 godina stvaranja snova Le Musée des Arts Décoratifs slavi sedamdesetogodišnjicu kuće Dior od 5. jula 2017. do 7. januara 2018. godine. Ova raskošna i sveobuhvatna izložba poziva posetioce na put kroz univerzum Kuće Dior, njenog osnivača i slavnih dizajnera koji su ga nasledili: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons i najnovija naslednica Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Više nije posebno iznenađenje kada veliki muzeji priređuju izložbe posvećene modnim velikanima. Sada je očigledno - moda je deo istorije našeg vremena! Moguće je da nas više iznenadi suočvanje sa sedamdeset godina postojanja jedne modne kuće kroz sve transformacije koje je svet u međuvremenu doživeo. Probajte da zamislite sve predmete, objekte i priče koje svedoče o tajnama univerzuma kuće Dior nagomilanih tokom polovine prošlog i celokupnog dosadašnjeg trajanja XXI veka. Kustoski posao, koji su obavili Florence Müller i Olivier Gabet, svakako nije bio lak. Ne samo zbog uzbudljivog arheološkog posla kopanja po beskrajnoj količini razasutih podataka, već i zbog zadatka da ih objedine u jedinstvenu priču. Njihov izbor je bio da istoriju Diora istovremeno predstave i hronološki i tematski i da prvi put koriste poseban prostor Muzeja dekorativnih umetnosti u Parizu, takozvani naos, prostor od ukupno 3000 kvadratnih metara.
Milica Ivić Nemojte da budete u dilemi - od izbora objekata, prostora, do impozantnih postamenata i svetlosnih efekata svaki detalj je impresivan. U izložbu se ulazi kroz priču o Diorovom životu, njegovoj mladosti i vezama sa umetnicima i umetnošću. U ludo uzbudljivim 20im godinama dvadesetog veka Dior kao i ostatak Evrope susreće avangardu! Može biti da vam je već poznato ili ne, ali Dior je pre ulaska u svet visoke mode, od 1928. do 1934. godine vodio galeriju u Parizu, u partnerstvu sa dva prijatelja (Jacques Bonjean i Pierre Colle). U njegovom neposrednom prijateljskom i umetničkom okruženju, nalazile su se, tada još buduće zvezde, Giacometti, Dalí, Calder, Leonor Fini, Max Jacob, Jean Cocteau i Christian Bérard. Tako da izložba o Dioru obuhvata i slike, skulpture i dokumenta iz ovog važnog perioda njegove lične istorije, ali i istorije umetnosti celokupnog XX veka. Kustosi izložbe su se
očigledno potrudili da veza Kristijana Diora, njegovih umetničkih afiniteta i njegovih kreacija postane očigledna. Putovanjem kroz izložbu otkrivaju se direktne reference na slike i skulpture, kao i na sve što čini umetnost življenja: tapete, tkanine, keramiku. Pored očiglednog afiniteta za najnovija, najdrskija, najbeskompromisnija ostvarenja iz sveta koji ga je okruživao, Dior je veoma očigledno voleo i antikvitete i dekorativne umetničke objekte, bio je kolekcionar umetnosti iz perioda Art Nouveau, bio je zanesen XVIII vekom. Kako bismo to jednostavnije objasnili nego eklektično! Kada se to spoji sa njegovim osnovnim zanimanjem, a to je modni ilustrator, i ambicijom da uspe u svetu visoke mode, nije ni čudo što je njegova bliskost sa umetnošću ono što je ostavilo upečatljiv trag u njegovom stvaralačkom identitetu. Kao ljubitelj umetnosti koji je obožavao muzeje, Dior je ostao omiljeni predmet proučavanja modnih znalaca koji se bave genezom specifičnog izgleda njegovih ostvarenja i veza koje je stvorio između visoke mode i svih oblika umetnosti. Izložba o stvaranju snova, predstavlja izbor od preko 300 haljina dizajniranih
od 1947. godine do današnjeg dana, a sve ih povezuje jedna zajednička narativna nit u koju su kostosi uneli emocije, ljudske priče, afinitete, inspiraciju, kreacije i nasleđe. Osim haljina tu je i širok spektar izloženih tkanina i modnih fotografija, stotine dokumenata, uključujući ilustracije, skice, dokumentarne fotografije, pisma i zabeleške, kao i reklame, modne aksesoare, šešire, nakit, torbe, cipele i bočice parfema. Univerzum koji su stvorili Kristijan Dior i šest umetničkih direktora koji su ga nasledili i koji su izgradili ime i uticaj koji predstavljaju samo otelovljenje visoke mode u Francuskoj i širom sveta, adekvatno je predstavljen na ovoj impozantnoj izložbi. Predstavljeni su i svi oni koji su doprineli svojim umetničkim senzibilitetom da bi se formulisao stil i vokabular koji su sada poznati kao kuća Dior! U Diorovim umetničkim istraživanjima učestvovali su i Frédéric Castet, zadužen za dizajn krzna, Serge Lutens, Tyen i Peter Philips, kao i François Demachy, tvorac parfema.
i pokretanjem zlatnog doba mode. Mnogo toga se u međuvremenu promenilo, ali energija koja pokreće brend Dior i njegovo nasleđe su očuvani. Zanimljivo je da je zapravo Dior bio na čelu ove poznate modne kuće samo 10 od ukupno 70 godina njenog postojanja koje se upravo obeležavaju izložbom Stvaranje snova. Od 1957. godine modnu kuću Dior je vodilo 6 različitih dizajnera i svakom od njih je posvećena po jedna posebna galerija u okviru ove izložbe u pokušaju da se analizira kako su i koliko njihove kreacije ostale verne Diorovoj viziji visoke mode. Ovi dizajneri se
svakako međusobno razlikuju po pristupu, pa je mladi Yves Saint Laurent pokazivao izrazitu smelost u odnosu na racionalniji pristup Marca Bohana. Tome je sledio živopisni dolazak Gianfranco Ferréa, a onda još dramatičnija era modnog panka sa John Gallianom. Odmah zatim dolazi minimalistički obrt sa Raf Simonsom i, na kraju feministička vizija mode koju donosi Maria Grazia Chiuri. I ko zna kuda dalje! Većina predstavljenih objekata na ovoj izložbi pripadaju kolekciji Dior Héritage i nikada ranije nisu bili viđeni u Parizu.
Izložba je svakako put kroz vreme. Od 1947. do 2017. godine svet je doživeo nebrojene transformacije. Dior je sam bio pokretač i inovator u svetu mode, uvođenjem svoje estetike
Young Designer Award / Budislava Keković
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SS18 colors
Textil Design Studio
Côte d’azur ŠTOF P MELONI # 780 # MEDIEVAL BLUE
KOŠULJAR CO STRIPE EMB DSN # 222 # STRIPES & FLOWERS
ŠTOF P FINE TWILL # 1873 # MOUNTAIN VIEW
KOŠULJAR VIS CHALIS # 597 # POMPEII RED
LAN VISKOZA 10 # 1 MOONBEAM
Spring Dream KOŠULJAR S BUBBLE PLISE
JQD CO HERRERA DSN # 5219 # WHITE OFF PALE MAUVE
KOŠULJAR VIS CHALIS PRT DSN # 902 # PALMS YELLOW
ŠTOF V CREP SPAN, # 992 # LIME LIGHT
TIL S PEARLS DSN # 5179 # BEIGE WHITE OFF
Earth Calling KOŠULJAR S BUBBLE PLISE # 1280 # MOON MIST
KEPER # 3909 # ARMY
KOŠULJAR VIS CREP # 91 # BRIGHT WHITE
ŠTOF V PRADA # 489 # OLIVE GRAY
PRADA # 1420 # BIRCH
Art Opulence KOŠULJAR VIS RAYON POPLIN PRT DSN # 8 # PEACOCK CORAL_1
JQD CO HERRERA DSN # 1601 # POISSON ROUGE
POLY KNIT PLISE FOIL H 3 GOLD
KOŠULJAR S 1697 # 973 # RASPBERRY SORBET
ŠTOF VIS PRADA # 509 # RED MARLBORO
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Kolumna
Jelka Musić i čudesni svet Jean Paul Gaultier-a. Predavanje Jelke Musić, direktorke komunikacija u francuskom i svetskom brendu Jean Paul Gaultier, održano je u okviru FEBS Master Class-a u Kongresnom centru hotela Envoy. Ovaj kulturno-edukativni događaj je omogućen zahvaljujući pokroviteljstvu Univerziteta Metropolitan i sponzorstvu kompanije Textil iz Užica.
Poslovna svakodnevica Jelke Musić danas se odvija u neobičnom svetu Jean Paul Gaultiera. Ovaj svet ima svoju mirniju svakodnevicu i naravno burne vremenske periode oko modnih revija i putovanja. Kao stručnjak za komunikaciju u svetu mode, Jelka je već sedam godina deo JPG tima, ali njen put dug 25 godina kroz modni univerzum zanimljiv je i pre ove poslednje destinacije. Tokom devedestih godina zatekli bismo je u tokijskom press ofisu brenda Comme des Garçons. Nekoliko godina posle toga u njihovoj pariskoj kancelariji. Priča kruži da je Jelka, samo 15 dana po dolasku u francusku prestonicu mogla da vodi razgovor na francuskom, iako ga pre toga nikada nije govorila. To nije toliko iznenađujuće ako se uzme u obzir da je njeno osnovno obrazovanje iz oblasti filologije. Naime, ona je završila Filološki fakultet u Beogradu, smer anglistika, a zatim dobila stipendiju japanske vlade za učenje japanskog jezika u Tokiju. Porodica sa strane oca ima mornarske i piratske korene iz malog mesta Ston, pored Dubrovnika, koji je služio kao baza za istraživanje mogućnosti krijumčarenja od XVII do XIX veka. Ta porodična istorija obuhvata tamnovanje u venecijanskim zatvorima, ali i pomorska putovanja sve do Japana
u 30im godinama XX veka. To što je i sama otišla veoma daleko smatra za nastavak avanturističke porodične tendencije. Iako je putevi nisu vodili krijumčarskim vezama preko okeana, nisu bili manje zanimljiviji. U Tokijo je dospela preko Londona, gde je zapravo dobila posao za Shiseido u oblasti razvijanja proizvoda. Deo japanske karijere se vezuje i za rad sa Rei Kawakubo, koja je naučila beskopromisnim zakonima kreativnosti i kako kreativnost može biti kompatibilna sa biznisom. Jelka smatra da je za nekoga ko je genije moguće da ne poštuje sva marketinška pravila i da zadrži određeni stepen nezavisnosti. Ali i da je potrebna nadljudska snaga da bi se očuvala i nezavisnost i vrhunski nivo proizvodnje. Deo svoje karijere je provela radeći kao direktoka komunikacija za brend John Galliano, gde je atmosfera bila opuštenija, metodi slobodniji, blistaviji, sa puno improvizacije ali takođe veoma zahtevni kreativno. JPG nikada nije bio manje od izrazitog ekscentrika. Međutim, izgleda je i on prerastao status enfant terrible. Mnoge od njegovih ekstravagantnih kreacija iz osamdesetih i devedesetih su danas postale modni klasici -
korset haljine, konusni grudnjaci, bondage trake... Nedavno je Wall Street Journal njegove korsete opisao kao spiritualne pojave. Što sasvim dovoljno govori o promenjenom statusu. Ipak, čini se da su njegove komunikacione marketinške strategije i dalje pomalo ekstravagantne u današnjim medijskim okvirima. Komunikacija je devedestih bila dosta drugačija. pre svega u odnosima sa oglašivačima, koji su postali kraljevi medija koji određuju zakone. Uprkos tome što se beskrajno umnožio broj medija i mogućih kanala komunikacije, naročito sa pojavom interneta i društvenih mreža, ipak se ceo svet bori za iste oglašivače. Čini se čudesni JPG ima drugačiji odnos prema datim medijskim zakonima. Prisutnima na predavanju u okviru master classa je bilo zanimljivo da čuju kako je tekao poslovni put gospođe Musić i njen profesionalni razvoj, i da osete delić atmosfere jednog „običnog“ dana zaspolenog u JPG-u i “kako izgleda kada dođe veliki dan za reviju nove Haute Couture kolekcije. Iznela je i bitne podatke koji se odnose na rad jedne modne kuće kao što je Jean Paul Gaultier, koliki je budžet i koliko glavnu ulogu igraju društvene mreže u današnje vreme”.
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Intro There is a Japanese proverb: “Only an active human being wants to be a hundred years old”. Have you ever heard of Ikigai? And why did we use it as inspiration for our next season? Is it the current global trend or a far-reaching search that will advance and embellish both the world as well as the individual? Ikigai is a Japanese concept that could roughly be translated as joy over being constantly busy or the reason which we live for, i.e. our purpose in life. They say that the residents of Okinawa, an island in Japan with the highest number of people over 100 years old, believe Ikigai the main reason for getting up in the morning. To learn to love what you do and to turn that act into pure time-stopping pleasure is the true ikigai! Trends, inspirations,
Fairs and suggestions that follow are the outcome of our own “joyful busyness”. Go boldly into the next season with Textil materials, and play with daring combinations of colours, playful styles and architectural forms. Find what pleases you the most, what inspires you, where the time stops! Laugh and enjoy while you create and design and you’ll surely be recognized. Be generous and share with others, let them recognize your ikigai. It’s trendy to loose notion of time, not strive for perfection and to help others. And Textil Company wishes to share its ikigai with you in hope of inspiring you to find your own “reason to get up in the morning”. Be a part of our creative team and follow us on our new website. Jelena Pavlović, Creative director
Dior. 70 Years of Creating Dreams The Musée des Arts Décoratifs is celebrating 70 years of house Dior from July 5, 2017 to January 7, 2018. This grandiose and all-encompassing exhibition takes the visitors on a journey through the universe of House Dior, its founder and the famous designers who inherited his legacy, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and the latest successor Maria Grazia Chiuri. It is no longer a big surprise to have a big museum organizing an exhibition dedicated to fashion legends. Now it is obvious – fashion is part of the history of our time! We are much more surprised when faced with seventy years of a fashion house that reflected all the transformations the world had experienced in the meantime. Try and imagine all the articles, objects and stories which bear witness to all the secrets of House Dior universe piled up during the latter half of the previous century and the whole length of the XXI century so far. The work of custodians, Florence Müller and Olivier Gabet, was certainly not easy. Not just because of the exciting archeological work of digging through endless quantities of data, but because they were tasked with putting all this data into a coherent story. Their choice was to present the history of Dior both chronologically and thematically, and for the first time, they used a very special place inside the Museum, the so called Nave, a 3000-square-meters space. Do not doubt it – from the choice of objects, the space itself, to breath-taking installations and light effects – each detail is impressive. The exhibition opens with the story of Dior’s life, his youth and ties with art and artists. During the crazy exciting 20s, Dior, like most of Europe at that time, was introduced to the avant-garde! If you didn’t already know this, between 1928 and 1934, before entering the world of high fashion, Dior ran an art gallery in Paris, together with two of his friends Jacques Bonjean and Pierre Colle. His closest circle of friends at the time included then-unknown future stars such as Giacometti, Dalí, Calder, Leonor Fini, Max Jacob, Jean Cocteau and Christian Bérard. The exhibition thus included paintings, sculptures and documents from this important period in his personal history, but also the history of 20th-century art. The custodians have gone to great lengths to show us the link between Christian Dior, his artistic affinities and his creations. The journey through this exhibition reveals direct references to paintings and sculptures, but also everything else that makes up the art of living: wallpapers, fabrics, ceramics. Beside obvious affinity toward the latest, most daring and most uncompromising work, Dior was quite fond of antique pieces and decorative art objects. He was a passionate collector of Art Nouveau and was captivated by the 18th century. In other words – very eclectic! When you combine that with his basic occupation, a fashion illustrator, and the ambition to succeed
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in the world of high fashion, it is no wonder his closeness to art was the thing that left the most memorable impact in his creative identity. As someone who adored museums, Dior became the favorite topic of research by fashion connoisseurs, trying to understand a specific look of his creations or all the links he had made between the worlds of high fashion and all forms of art. This exhibition has presented a collection of over 300 dresses designed during the last 70 years, and they are all connected by a singular narrative thread. The custodians brought out emotions, human stories, affinities, inspirations, creations and heritage. Beside dresses, also on display are a wide variety of fabrics and fashion photographs, hundreds of personal documents, including illustrations, sketches, documentary photographs, letters and notes, as well as adverts, fashion accessories, hats, jewelry, handbags, shoes and perfumes. The universe created by Christian Dior and six other artistic directors who succeeded him and built the name and the influence that represented the very embodiment of high fashion, is marvelously presented at this monumental exhibition. It also presents the work of all those who contributed their artistic sensibilities in order to define the style and vocabulary that is now known as house Dior! People who participated in Dior’s artistic explorations, like Frédéric Castet, who worked on fur design, Serge Lutens, Tyen and Peter Philips, but also François Demachy, a perfumer. The exhibition is certainly a journey through time. From 1947 to 2017, the world experienced numerous transformations. Dior was an innovator in the world of fashion. He introduced his esthetic and kick-started the golden age of fashion. A lot has changed in the meantime, but the energy of brand Dior and its heritage are intact. It is interesting to note that, during its 70 years of existence, now commemorated by this exhibition, Dior headed the famous fashion house for only ten years. From 1957 until now, house Dior has been lead by 6 different designers and each of them have been given a special gallery as part of this exhibition, in an attempt to analyze in what way and how much their creations remained faithful to Dior’s vision of high fashion. These designers are certainly all different when it comes to their approach. For example, Yves Saint Laurent showed a lot of daring compared to a much more rational approach of Marc Bohan. This is followed by an exuberant Gianfranco Ferré, and then an even more dramatic era of fashion punk with John Galliano. Next, there is the minimalist twist of Raf Simons and, lastly, the feminist vision of fashion that was brought by Maria Grazia Chiuri. And who knows what’s next! Most of the objects on display at this exhibition belong to Dior Héritage collection and had never been shown before in Paris.
Premiere Vision
TexWorld
Each season, Premiere Vision Paris brings unique fashion assessments, exclusive information and guidelines for the new season, at 13 different panels spread around 5,000 square meters of space dedicated to fashion. The latest Premiere Vision anticipates the autumn/winter 18/19 will charmingly yet persistently keep asking “What’s normal?” and will come to respect the environment, but it will also be a highly creative and generous season with decidedly modern and sexy silhouettes. When it comes to colors, there is an absolute rebellion against the domination of the black and white. There are playful vibrating colors, new looks, subtle gradients. There are several basic guidelines for fabrics: robust yet light materials; dreary, toneddown materials are replaced by shiny and lustrous; nonconformist humor appears in unconventional decorations; and a touch of bizarre, fantastic worlds and abstract universes appearing in prints.
Messe Franfurt France is one of world’s leading professional fairs dedicated to fabrics which covers the entire value chain of the textile industry. The Textil team visited the Messe Frankfurt France Fair in September 2017, together with numerous other international exhibitors and visitors. From luxury materials, to latest technological innovations, as well as meetings between manufacturers and fashion experts from all around the globe, Messe Frankfurt France had yet again justified its prestigious status. What was undoubtedly clear this year was the increased public interest for this event, 13.9% higher than the previous year. This trend shows the unwavering professionalism of this event. With 83% of international visitors, the results had demonstrated a general rise in the global economy and re-established trust.
Jelka Musić and the Wondrous World of Jean Paul Gaultier A lecture by Jelka Musić, communications director at Jean Paul Gaultier, was held as part of FEBS Master Class at the Congress Centre of the Envoy Hotel. This cultural and educational event was made possible by the sponsorship of the Metropolitan University and Textil company from Užice, Serbia. The everyday business life of Jelka Musić is set in the unusual world of Jean Paul Gaultier. This world has its own business etiquette and of course turbulent times revolving around fashion shows and travels. As an expert in communication in the fashion world, Jelka has been a part of the JPG team for seven years now, but her 25-year journey through the fashion universe was interesting even before its last destination. During the 90s, she was working at Comme des Garçons Tokyo pressoffice. Several years after that she moved to their Paris office. The story goes that Jelka was able to have conversations in French without speaking a single word of the language only 15 days after landing at the French capital. This is not entirely surprising considering her basic area of study was philology. Namely, she studied at the Belgrade Faculty of Philology, at the Department of English Language and Literature, and later receiving a stipend by the Japanese government to study Japanese in Tokyo. Her father’s family is descended from a long line of mariners and sea pirates from the small town of Ston, near Dubrovnik, which was used as a smuggling base between 17th and 19th century. The family history includes spending time in Venetian prisons, but also maritime voyages to Japan during the 30s. The fact she too travelled far away she considers a continuation of her family’s adventurous tendencies. And even though her travels did not include trans-oceanic smuggling routes, it doesn’t mean they were any less interesting. She came to Tokyo via London, where she landed a job of product developer at Shiseido. Part of her Japanese career included working with Rei Kawakubo, who taught her the
uncompromising laws of creativity and how creativity could be compatible with business. Jelka believes that if someone is a genius it is possible not to abide by all the marketing rules and retain a certain degree of independence. But, she also says that it takes a superhuman strength to keep both the independence and first-rate level of production. Part of her career she spent working as communication director for John Galliano, where the atmosphere was much more loose, the methods used were much freer, with plenty of improvisation, but at the same time highly demanding in terms of creativity. JPG has never been anything less than a remarkable eccentric. However, it appears even he has outgrown his status of enfant terrible. Many of his extravagant creations from the 80s and 90s have now become classics – the corset dress, the conical bras, the bondage tapes, etc. Recently, the Wall Street Journal described his corsets as spiritual entities, which clearly indicated his altered status. Yet, it appears his marketing communication strategies are still a bit extravagant, even by today’s standards. During the 90s, communication had been much different, especially when it came to advertisers, which became the law-defining media barons. Despite the endless proliferation of the number of media and possible communication channels, particularly with the advent of Internet and social media, the whole world still fights over the same advertisers. But, it appears the amazing JPG has a different relationship toward the media laws. The guests at this master class lecture were also interested in hearing about the business journey of Mrs. Musić as well as her professional development. They wanted to know how a “regular” day at work at JPG felt like and what it was like when a new Haute Couture collection premiered. She also shared important information regarding her work at Jean Paul Gaultier, the size of the budget and how important is the role of social media today.