No. 20 // jesen 2019. // Besplatan primerak
Created to create -
www.textilue.rs
Intro
SS / 20 Trends
Textil Design Studio
Nocturnal Tropics -
KOŠULJAR VIS CHAL PRT DSN # TIGERS&FLOW # BLACK
I was created to create -
Ponekad je potrebno zaustaviti se, uhvatiti predah i pogledati iza sebe. Pogled na prošla ostvarenja, na prevaziđene sumnje, kretivne nemire i nedoumice vodi nas sigurnije u budućnost. Iza nas je dugi niz stvaranja od 1991. godine kada smo se posvetili svetu materijala. Odrastali smo sa modnom industrijom u Srbiji, sa njenim kreatorima i njihovim kreativnim procesima. Iza nas su godine i godine rada posle kojih smo ovu sezonu posvetili slavljenju kreativnih kapaciteta. Zbog toga vas pozivamo da na početku ove jeseni zajedno poverujemo da smo: Kreirani da stvaramo! U ovom broju zajedno sa modnim dizajnerima razmišljamo o tome šta smo stvorili sa jedne strane, dok sa druge kao i uvek budno i spremno čitamo nadolazeće trendove. Kako stvari stoje, slobodno dopustite sebi da budete maksimalno posvećeni izražavanju svih svojih unutrašnjih protivurečnosti i kreativnih impulsa. Modna industrija pokazuje tendenciju za smenjivanjem faza kaprica i totalne smirenosti. U ovom trenutku, svi ćemo se složiti, red je došao na maksimalizam, šljokice i ukrase, slojeve i slojeve čipke, neočekivane kombinacije boja. Opredeljivanjem za maksi trend sebi svakako dajete kompleksan zadatak. To je zahtevniji način oblačenja, koji traži više svega: više slojeva, više boja, više tekstura, više hrabrosti, više rizika. Zahteva promišljanje i strategiju, gomilu entuzijazma, spremnosti i volje da se sve to nagomila. I da se nadamo najboljem. Ono što je sigurno, to je dosta zabavan način oblačenja i postojanja, sa puno prostora za samoizražavanje i eksperimentisanje. Modni kritičari nude različite odgovore na pitanje odakle nam sad taj maksi trend - da li za to postoji neki razlog i da li nam to nešto govori o tome kako sebe žene doživljavaju. Jedna mogućnost je da nam ukazuje na doživljaj ženstvenosti, druga je da je to odgovor na opštu potrebu za svetlošću i životom, optimizmom u napetim vremenima. Ili samo posle mini uvek dođe maksi? Opet je “previše svega” sasvim u redu! Uživajmo dok traje! Jelena Pavlović kreativni direktor
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KOŠULJAR S ELY PRT DSN # 6653 GARDEN # BLACK
KOŠ. VIS MORROCO PRTDSN # TROPICAL # BLACK BEIGE
KOšULJAR VIS CHALIS PRT DSN # 3352 LEAVES # BLACK
LAN VISKOZA 10 PRT DSN # 12 LEAVES # NAVY BEIGE
Summer Stripes KOŠ. VIS MORROCO PRT DSN # 54 STRIPES # BEIGE PINK
KEPER STRECH SATEN PRT DSN # STR. NEW # NAVY OFF WHITE
KOŠ. VIS MORROCO PRT DSN # 59 STRIPES # NAVY WHITE
KOŠULJAR VIS CHALIS PRT DSN # DEMAGE STRIPE # YELLOW
LAN VISKOZA STRIPE STRIPE # MULTI # LIGHT BLUE NAVY
Glossy Surfaces POLY KNIT MARTINA GLITTER # NAVY
POLY KNIT BRILIANT EMB DSN # 2 DOTS # WHITE OFF SILVER
POLY KNIT PLISE FOIL LUX DSN # PEPITO # BEIGE SILVER
POLY KNIT DISCO METALIC DSN # LEOPARD # BEIGE BLACK
POLY KNIT PLISE PRT # STRIPE GREEN GRAY
Instagram.
TextilUzice
Kreirani da stvaraju
Svi smo kreirani da stvaramo, to nije stvar izbora, kaže Tatjana Tatalović. Sa verom u zajedničko stvaranje modne scene u Srbiji, okupili smo modne dizajnere koji sarađuju sa kompanijom Textil. Pitali smo njih da li su kreirani da stvaraju.
Tatjana Tatalović Modni dizajner Stvara od 2009. godine Da li ste kreirani da stvarate? Da. Svi smo kreirani da stvaramo. Svi stvaramo. Tri najvažnije stvari koje ste stvorili? Proces stvaranja je neprekidan, postoji osvrt na prethodno “završeno”, to “završeno” nikada nije potpuno završeno, uvek može nešto da se ispravi, doda, oduzme. Sve što stvaram mi je važno, nemam najvažnije. Najvažniji mi je proces stvaranja. Koliko je kompanjija Textil povezana sa vašim radom? Kompanija Textil je drugi korak u mom procesu stvaranja. Prvi je ideja. Izbor materijala kao deo procesa stvaranja u modnom dizajnu je veoma bitan, ponekad i presudan za pravac kojim će kolekcija da se kreće. Činjenica da kompanija Textil vodi računa o potrebama svojih klijenata i ima spremna resenja za naredne sezone, veoma olakšava posao u procesu stvaranja, kako kod nezavisnih dizajnera, tako i velikih kompanija. Zaporavo, moj rad je usko povezan sa kompanijom Textil.
Tijana Pavlov Modni kreator i Docent na Univerzitetu Metropolitan (odsek Modni dizajn) Da li ste kreirani da stvarate? Svi smo kreatori to nije izbor! Najvažnije je prvo dobro iskreirati sebe. Kreiramo i kada nahranimo lutalicu na ulici i kada osmislimo kolekciju, i sve ostalo između toga. U poslednje vreme se trudim da iskreiram svest kod studenata o mogućnostima očuvanja životne sredine kroz modno zanimanje i oduševljena sam načinom razmišljanja mladih generacija. Imam mnogo vere u njihove kreacije koje tek dolaze. U svakodnevnom radu sa njima imam osećaj da svet može biti bolje mesto za sve. English on page 8
Tri najvažnije stvari koje ste stvorili? Sopstvenu slobodu tela, uma i duha.
Milica Ivić
Kvalitetan prostor u životu da imam oko sebe božanstvene prijatelje i zahvalnost. Moj ponos je kreacija sjajne platforme za uzletanje mladih modnih stvaralaca, u koju smo ulili znanje i energiju (čitaj: krv, suze i znoj) moje najdraže kolege i drugari Aleksandar Protić i Katarina Samardžić i ja, a uz ogromno poverenje i podršku menadžmenta Univerziteta Metropolitan. Koliko je kompanija Textil povezana sa vašim stvaranjem? Kompanija Textil je jedna od prvih (ako ne i prva) dala podršku mladim talentima i time pokazala primer ostalim kompanijama da “veliki” mogu da pomognu “male” kako bi svi napredovali. Ulaganje u buduće generacije je nešto što bi trebalo da je imperativ za sveobuhvatni napredak, a komapnija Textil tu viziju definitvno ima.
Sonja Jocić Modni dizajner Stvara od 2013. godine Da li ste kreirani da stvarate? Rođena sam da kreiram i stvaram. Ukoliko toga ne bi bilo, za mene život ne bi imao smisla. Živim za kreativnost, za nove ideje i inovacije koje mogu da promene sadašnjost u bolju budućnost. Tri najvažnije stvari koje ste stvorili? Za mene je moda svakodnevni život, tako da, tri najvažnije stvari koje sam stvorila jesu kolekcije koje su nastale u želji da pokrenem sebe, utičem na ostale i promenim svest okoline. Tri najvažnije kolekcije su ‘’ Dream Awake’’, ‘’Alarm’’ i ‘’0%’’. To su kreativna istraživanja forme i procesa, koja vode računa o zaštiti životne sredine, kreiranju krojeva bez otpada tkanine, bave se reciklažom i održivom modom u vidu multifunkcionalnosti u odevanju, a pre svega čine žene jakim i sa stavom koji im je potreban u današnje vreme. Koliko je kompanija Textil povezana sa vašim stvaranjem? KompanijaTextil je bila uz mene od kako sam se prvi put pojavila na javnoj sceni u okviru samostalne revije nakon studiaranja u inostranstvu. Tada sam u okviru Belgrade Fashion Week-a dobila nagradu za najboljeg mladog dizajnera koja mi je dala znak da sam zaista na pravom putu. Sada već uveliko koristim Textil materijale, a u mnogim slučajevima se dogodi da me sam materijal inspiriše za određene komade u okviru kolekcije.
Aleksandar Protić CEO Atelier Aleksandar Protic, Profesor modnog dizajna/ Univerzitet Metropolitan Modni dizajner, kostimograf Stvara od 1997. godine
Vlada Savić Modni dizajner, modni urednik, profesor, fashion buyer, stilista Kostimograf, Katedra za savremeno odevanje Stvara od 2005. godine
Da li ste kreirani da stvarate? Definitivno.
Da li ste kreirani da stvarate? Aplosutno.To je moja iskonska potreba, deo moje biti, vazduh bez koga ne mogu.
Tri najvažnije stvari koje ste stvorili? Postoji dosta važnih stvari koje sam stvorio i teško je ređati ih po značaju, ali jedna je svakako moj kreativni izraz, ako govorimo o stvaralačkom delu mog života. Koliko je kompanija Textil povezana sa vašim stvaranjem? Deo mog stvaranja se svakako odnosi i na moj rad sa studentima modnog dizajna Univerziteta Metropolitan. Naša saradnja sa kompanijom Textil je vrlo važna i mnogo pomaže u obrazovanju i razvijanju kreativnosti naših studenata i budućih modnih dizajnera.
Tri najvažnije stvari koje ste stvorili? Ono što je najteže u modi - svoju prepoznatljivu estetiku, likovni univerzum i lični modni DNK pantalone sa duplim nogavicama. Koliko je kompanija Textil povezana sa vašim stvaranjem? Dosta. Dođe mi kao prozor u svet, produžena ruka i alat bez kojeg nema stvaranja.
Jelena i Svetlana Proković JSP, dizajner Stvaraju od kad postoji brend 1992. godine. Ivana Pilja Modni dizajner Stvara od 2010. godine Da li ste kreirani da stvarate? Kreativnost, moda i umetnost su sastavni deo moga života. Uživam u kreativnom procesu i stvaranju, tako da definitivno da. Tri najvažnije stvari koje ste stvorili? Svoj brend, prepoznatljiv pravac, i nezavisnost da se bavim onim što zaista volim da radim Koliko je kompanija Textil povezana sa vašim stvaranjem? Kompanija Textil me je podržala od samog početka, na čemu sam im veoma zahvalna. Pomogli su da svojim raznovrsnim izborom materijala upotpune moje kolekcije.
Da li ste kreirani da stvarate? Po profesiji sam arhitekta, a po opredeljenju modni dizajner. Oduvek mi je bio najzanimljiviji proces stvaranja - od ideje do nečega što ima upotrebnu vrednost, a istovremeno i ulepšava svakodnevicu. Tri najvažnije stvari koje ste stvorili? Tri najbitnije stvari koje sam stvorila uz pomoć dragih ljudi: Brend JSP koji postoji 27. godina Radnja IDENTITY koju smo napravile u saradnji sa Danijelom Biškup. Od 2002. to je radnja brendova JSP i LILU. To što imamo sopstvenu proizvodnju od 1999. godine. Koliko je kompanija Textil povezana sa vašim stvaranjem? Sa kompanijom Textil savršeno sarađujemo dugi niz godina i njihovi materijali čine oko 80% naših modela.
Foto: Đorđe Tomić
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SS / 20 Trends
Textil Design Studio
Retro scarf prints KOŠ. VIS CHALIS PRT DSN # 3 # CHAINS &BELTS # ROUGE POM.
KOŠ S ANYA SAT. PRT DSN # DCSARF & FLOWERS
KOŠ. VIS CHALIS PRT DSN # PATCHWORL # LAVANDA
KOŠ. VIS RAY. POP. PRT DSN # 756 PAISLEY CORAL
KOŠULJAR VIS CHALIS PRT DSN # 39 SCARF # BLUE
Dynamic Tye-Dyed KOŠ. VIS RAYON POP. PRT DSN # 763 ABST. # OLIVE N
FUTER TT-100 LIKRA PRT DSN # 4126 TIE-DYE STRIPES
SINGL TT-068 DSN # 4126 TIE-DYE STRIPES # BEIGE
KOŠ VIS CHAL. PRT DSN # 53 TIE DYE # BEIGE NAVY
KOSULJAR VIS RAYON YOURT PRT / 1 DSN #DENIM
Vibrant Skins KOŠ S SAT. TWILL PRT DSN # 7 FLOW. ABST. ANIMAL
KOŠ S EMILY PRT DSN # 6391 CAT ANIMAL # PINK
KOŠ S SHINY MORROCO PRT DSN # 2 ANIMAL PINK
KOŠ S KAR. PRT D. # 757 AN. CHAINS # GOLD W. OFF
KOŠ S SHINY MORROCO PRT DSN # 4 ZEBRA AQUA
Textil Designer Award Vesna Kracanović
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Nenad Radujević
Milica Ivić
Koje su to najvažnije stvari koje ste stvorili do sada? MS Click postoji i kontinuirano radi već 28 godina, i u prvom pitanju sam objasnio šta je njegov najveći doprinos. Belgrade Fashion Week je takođe rezultat tog rada i ove godine slavi 23. rođendan tj. svoje 46. izdanje. Treća stvar na koju sam najviše ponosan su ljudi, brojni kreativci s kojima smo radili, rasli, usavršavali se, napredovali od prvih Clickovih manekenki koje su obeležile celu jednu dekadu, i koje su i danas uspešne u svojim karijerama, preko različitih kreativaca - fotografa, grafičkih dizajnera, scenografa, do velikog broja kreatora koji su počinjali sa nama i danas predstavljaju najbolji deo naše modne scene. Koliko se modna scena promenila od kada postoji BFW? U odnosu na te 90te godine kada je BFW počeo sa radom sve se u našem društvu radikalno promenilo, kao društvo prošli smo kroz krize, tranziciju, privatizacije, devalvaciju mnogih vrednosti. I u svetu su promene drastične, u svakom smislu pa tako i modnom. Dešava nam se četvrta industrijska revolucija, sve je ubrzano, umreženo, globalno, tako da je logično da su se i u modi desile drastične promene, a jedna od njih je i dominacija kompanija koje plasiraju “brzu” modu.
U modnoj misiji. U trenutku kada se gotovo nije ni moglo misliti o modi u Srbiji, sredinom devedesetih godina prošlog veka, Nenad Radujević imao je već jasnu modnu misiju, čiji se rezultati vide danas. On je osnivač i direktor modnog studija Click, kojim je 1996. godine odlučno započet proces stvaranja domaće modne scene. Važan korak u tom procesu bio je osnivanje beogradske Nedelje mode, koja je postala mesto ukrštanja modnih kreatora i svih ostalih kreativaca iz šire oblasti mode. O prošlim tokovima stvaranja, ali i o budućim vizijama, razgovarali smo sa Nenadom Radujevićem. Da li i kako prepoznajete ko je kreiran da stvara odnosno stvoren da kreira? Prva misija modnog studija Click je bila da okupi različite kreativce koji rade na polju mode. I još od te ‘91. to je bio naš najveći kvalitet. Da li se to desilo slučajno ili ne, ne znam, znam samo da smo se prepoznali i da su se mnoge naše karijere isprepletale, da smo podržavali jedni druge i da smo zajedno gradili nešto što se danas može nazvati beogradskom modnom scenom. Drago mi je da nas u tom smislu i danas prepoznaju mladi ljudi koji nisu ni rođeni ‘91. i da svaki naš poziv za razne konkurse ima dobar odziv i da na taj način pronalazimo i podržavamo nove talente. Tako će
biti i na ovom 46. Perwol Fashion Week-u kroz nas Fashion Incubator, na Noizz Fashion Award konkursu, BFW Instashot konkursu za mlade fotografe, studentskim revijama... Drago mi je da smo osmislili sistem u kome otkrivamo nove kreativce i na taj način možemo da ih podržimo, zadržimo i dokažemo da mogu da stvaraju i žive od toga i u našoj zemlji. Vaše omiljene 3 stvari koje su nastale u svetu mode? Ako pričamo o svetskoj modi i njenoj istoriji, to su za mene dizajneri koji su doprineli revolucionarnim momentima koji će zauvek ostati upamćeni kao prekretnica u modnom stvaralaštvu - pojava Coco Chanel i žena u pantalonama, Mari Quant i njena mini suknja i modno buntovništvo Jean Paul Gaultiera i uticaj street mode na modne stvaraoce. Ako je pitanje bilo za naše podneblje, onda je to prva modna revija kod nas na dvoru kraljice Drage 1903. godine po ugledu na francuske show roomove; modne ilustracije i naslovna strana americkog Vogue-a iz 1940. Milene Pavlovic Barili i otvaranje katedre za savremenu modu na Fakultetu primenjenih umetnosti, koju je pokrenula profesorka Anđelka Slijepčević 1956. godine, što će se kasnije pokazati kao krucijalna i odlična baza za razvoj i opstanak naše modne scene i stvaranje sjajnih modnih kreatora.
Ni nas nisu zaobišli takvi uticaji, ali u isto vreme postoji domaća moda koja se sve vreme bori i razvija - od modne industrije, odnosno domaćih brendova, do scene autorskog dizajna, odnosno samostalnih kreatora. Moda je danas u Srbiji jedna od retkih uspešnih privrednih grana koja stalno iskazuje sve veću dodatu vrednost, što je suština uspeha svake industrije. Sve veći broj samostalnih dizajnera i dizajnerskih radnji (u Beogradu ih danas ima preko 50), dokaz je da se sa uspehom razvija i to modno preduzetništvo, pogotovo ono žensko i omladinsko. Često smo svedoci i internacionalnog uspeha naših dizajnera, što dokazuje njihov kvalitet, a Belgrade Fashion Week svakako ima svoj doprinos u tom uspehu. Koliko trendovi utiču na oblikovanje modne scene u Srbiji? Već sam napomenuo da je moda odavno postala globalni fenomen, tako da se uticaj trendova širi brzinom svetlosti i to ne samo zbog digitalnih medija već i zbog brojnih internacionlnih brendova koji pokrivaju celu planetu. S druge strane je dobro što nismo deo velikih modnih centara gde se ovaj uticaj najviše oseća i u radu novih dizajnera, tako da postoji dobar deo autorskih dizajnera kod nas koji drže do svoje autentičnosti i posebnosti. Borba između Fast Fashion s jedne, komercijalne strane i Slow Fashion s druge, umetničke i autentične strane, tek će se rasplamsati. Duboko verujem da će suština mode ipak ostati na strani dizajnera Slow Fashion mode, koji i dalje drže da je kreativnost najveća vrednost umetničkog delovanja, što moda svakako jeste. Kako i da li pratite trendove kada su materijali u pitanju? Ne radim direktno u proizvodnji da bih istraživao novitete na tu temu, ali
smatram da je dizajn materijala postao skoro jednako važan kao i konstrukcija modela. Itekako obraćam pažnju na materijal kada su kolekcije u pitanju jer oni daju posebnu viziju celom konceptu. Drago mi je kada vidim da dizajneri imaju mogućnosti da se poigravaju materijalima, što nije čest slučaj kod nas. Da li ste zagovornik prirodnih ili veštačkih materijala? Prirodno kod mene ima prioritet u svakom segmentu života. Prirodni materijali kao što su pamuk, svila, vuna, lan, do skoro nisu imali adekvatnu alternativu. Međutim, sa pojavom novih tehnoloskih materijala, koji su čak i preuzeli neka svojstva prirodnih, došlo je do revolucije u tekstilnoj industriji. U tom smislu više verujem svom utisku koji materijal ostavlja pod prstima nego onome što piše na deklaraciji. Koliko kompanija Textil utiče na domaću modnu scenu? Textil je višegodišnji partner Beogradske nedelje mode i odavno prepoznaje autorske dizajnere kao pokretače domaće modne scene. Već sama ta činjenica ih svrstava u, rekao bih, modne mecene. Veliki i uvek dobro prezentovan asortiman materijala je od krucijalne važnosti za pravi izbor pri kreiranju kolekcija, a to jeste karakteristika Textila. U tom smislu i svi srpski brendovi, koji itekako prate svetske trendove, imaju adekvatnog partnera koji ih prati u dobrom odabiru trendy materijala. Uvek se radujem da na stranicama ovih fanzina vidim koje su to novine u Textilovoj paleti materijala i na koji način su one složene i prezentovane, jer uvek inspirišu na inovativno stvaranje. Koji bi bio idealni zamišljeni put razvoja mode kao industrije u Srbiji? Domaća modna industrija morala bi da postane deo industrijske strategije, a ne da to budu inostrani brendovi. Država bi kroz institucije trebalo da prepozna potrebe domaćih proizvođača, kreativaca i mladih preduzetnika, iako se čini da je reč o malim brojevima. Upravo u malim i mikro preduzećima i jeste snaga razvoja. Zbog toga je potrebna jasno definisana industrijska strategija, i opredeljenje države šta će razvijati, a modna industrija kod nas stalno napreduje, čak I bez velikih investijcija i ulaganja. Važno je i da se struka udružuje i pokreće stvari u dobrom smeru. Dobar primer je klaster naše modne i odevne industrije – FACTS, koji je uspeo da skrene pažnju na kvalitet modne industrije u Srbiji. U okviru klastera pružamo podršku domaćim brendovima da budu vidljivi i prepoznati. Region je izgubio svoje brendove, a Srbija ih ima i u toj činjenici leži šansa. Mnogi domaći brendovi imaju veliki potencijal da prevaziđu granice Balkana, neki su to već učinili, kao na promer Ivko za koji se realno može reći da je pozicioniran na svetskoj mapi brendova. Neophodno je da razvijamo sosptvene brendove i dizajnere i da damo podršku kreativnosti mladih talenata, jer su oni nosioci razvoja. English on page 8
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Tendencije
Textil Design Studio & Marko Stojaković
Kancelarija kod kuće? -
Mekano uživanje -
Freelance kultura je zavladala svetom, te širom Evrope možete sresti mlade bicikliste u elegantnim pantalonama na učkur od unapređenih tehničkih materijala. Džepovi, rajsferšlusi i pametni detalji za mobilnu kancelariju. O, da.
Futer, polar i krzno su se prošetali od dečijih tkanina, do sportskih i casual. Projekcije kažu da su na vratima muške mode.
A gde se zapravo nalazimo? Zbunili ste se?
Mekane ekstremno taktilne tkanine evoluiraju na sve strane.
Kako ne biste izgledali kao veliki teddy bear, stilisti preporučuju neutralne boje i ostatak stajlinga za odrasle.
Kvantni skok u muški orman
Potpuno zapostavljeni muškarci su se pobunili! Rekli smo ok i zavirili u projekcije muških trendova za sezonu jesen zima 2020/21. Dok je ženska moda duboko zagazila u maksimalizam, muškarci se ne daju tako lako. No, nove generacije su otvorene za eksperiment i menjaju sliku sveta, i mode. Ne zaboravite, mlađoj publici su devedesete retro! Dakle prigrlimo minimalizam, koji se možda vraća, ili ne? Jednostavna zadovoljstva Printovi i paterni - ne nikako?! Fokus je na materijalu, pre svega na kvalitetu i dugotrajnosti komada koji su napravljeni da traju. Očekujete da vidite sve - od premium izvođenja bazičnih komada odeće do luksuzih modularnih odevnih predmeta. I arhitektonski pristup i sve što je potrebno da se naglasi forma! Naučite da uživate u jednostavnom.
Uticaji Ovo je naše viđenje. Za dalje istraživanje otkrivamo vam ono što nas je inspirisalo. Jeff Boudreau Frieze magazine Givenchy Clare Waight Keller Fear of God Luxe leisurewear Daniel W Fletcher Considered Comfort
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Urbani minimalizam -
Putovanje u budućnost inspiriše pisce i dizajnere. Ali, gle čuda! Budućnost je stigla. Monohromatska paleta i slojevitost su osnova. Na ovo dodajte blend hipermodernog i klasičnog. Nešto poput Mad Max sreće Michael J. Foxa i zajedno kreću na putovanje Povratka u budućnost.
SS / 20 Colors
Textil Design Studio
Soft KOŠULJAR S SATEN LUX # 1219 CAMELLIA
KOŠ CO ALL OV. EYLET DSN # 9121 FLOWER # LIME
ŠTOF P ZARINA # 386 SIERRA
KOŠULJAR S BUBBLE PLISE # 875 BLUE BIRD
TIL S 0555 # EVENING SAND
Neon SING TT-068 LIKRA DSN # 3467A TIE -DYED LIME PUNCH
FUTER TT-100 LIKRA # 1643 LIME PUNCH
SINGL CVC TT-076 LIKRA # 745 PERSIMMON MEL
KOŠULJAR S BUBBLE CREP # 356 GREEN OASIS
ŠTOF P FIME TWILL LUX # 1895 PINK GLO N
Feminine ŠTOF P 4 WS # 327 IMPERIAL BLUE
POST P ACETAT PRT DSN # ANIMAL # FUCHSIA BLACK
ŠTOF V PARADA #1707 LAVANDER HERB
KOŠULJAR S MADLEN # 1277 CAFE CREME
KOŠULJAR S TALIA DSN # 9515 # MINT FOAM
New Classic KOŠULJAR S TALIA DSN # 9491 FLOWERS # NAVY LIGHT
JQD CO FLORENCE DSN # 1592 # WHITE OFF
KOŠ VIS CHALIS PRT DSN # ANIMAL STRIPES # NAVY BLUE
KOŠULJAR S SATEN STRECH # 444 CHAMPAGNE BEIGE
ŠTOF V VICTORIA # 2325 LICHEN BLUE
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Created to create SONJA JOCIĆ Fashion designer Creating since 2013 Are you made to create? I was born to make and create. If I didn’t, life would be meaningless to me. I live for creativity, new ideas and innovations that have the power to change the present and lead us into a better future. What are the three most important things you created? To me, fashion is everyday life, so, the three most important things that I created are collections whose aim was to first engage myself and then influence others and change the consciousness around me. These three collections are: Dream Awake, Alarm and 0%. They represent creative research of form and process, taking into account environmental protection, creating designs without the excess of fabric, recycling and sustainable fashion, as well as the multi-functionality of clothing, but above all, designs that make women more powerful and that give them an attitude which they sorely need today. How closely knit is Textil company with what you create? The Textil company has been with me ever since my first public appearance, which was my first solo fashion show after finishing my studies abroad. I then received the Belgrade Fashion Week Award for the best young designer which gave me a sign I was on the right track. For a long time now, I have been using Textil’s fabrics, and often the fabric itself inspires me to create certain items for the collection. TATJANA TATALOVIĆ Fashion Designer Creating since 2009 Are you made to create? Yes. We are all made to create. We all create. What are the three most important things you created? The creation process is never-ending, there is a hindsight of what had been previously “completed”, and this “completed” is never fully completed, it can always be corrected, added or subtracted. Everything I create is important to me, I don’t hold some of them as more important. What’s most important to me is the process of creation.
How closely knit is Textil company with what you create? The Textil company is the second step in my creative process. The first step is an idea. The choice of fabrics as part of the creative process in fashion design is extremely important, sometimes even crucial for the direction the collection will take. The fact that Textil takes care of their clients’ needs and offers available solutions for future seasons, greatly facilitates the creative process, both for independent designers and big companies. In fact, my work is very closely knit with Textil company. JELENA I SVETLANA PROKOVIĆ JSP, fashion designer Creating since 1992 Are you made to create? I’m an architect by trade and fashion designer by vocation. For me, the most important part of the creative process has always been the journey from an idea to something that serves a purpose, but at the same time brightens our everyday life. What are the three most important things you created? The three most important things I created I made with the help of some very dear people: The JSP brand, which has existed for the last 27 years IDENTITY store, which my sister and I launched in collaboration with Danijela Biškup. Since 2002, it is the store of JSP and LILU brands. The fact we’ve had our own production line since 1999 How closely knit is Textil company with what you create? We have been working together with Textil company perfectly for many years now and their fabrics make up around 80% of our models. TIJANA PAVLOV Fashion designer and Associate Professor at the Metropolitan University Are you made to create? We are all creators, it is not a choice! The most important thing is to first design yourself well. We create when we are feeding the stray dog as much as when we are designing a collection, but also all the other things in between. Lately, I’ve tried creating an
awareness in students on the possibilities of saving the environment through fashion and I was delighted with ideas these young generations had. I put a lot of faith in their upcoming creations. While working with them every day, I developed a feeling the world could indeed become a better place. What are the three most important things you created? My own freedom of body, mind and spirit. A good living space around me full of divine friends and gratitude. My pride is the creation of a fantastic platform, a springboard for young fashion designers, which my dearest colleagues and friends Aleksandar Protić and Katarina Samardžić and I have poured all our knowledge and energy into, but also blood, sweat and tears, and also with enormous trust and support of the Metropolitan University management. How closely knit is Textil company with what you create? Textil company was one of the first (if not the first) to support young talents and thus gave the example to other companies how “big” can help the “small” in order for everyone to prosper. Investing in future generations is something that ought to become a general imperative for all-around progress and Textil company definitely has that vision. VLADA SAVIĆ Fashion designer, fashion editor, professor, fashion buyer, stylist, costume designer, department for contemporary clothing Creating since 2005 Are you made to create? Absolutely. It is my primordial need, a part of my essence, the air I can’t live without. What are the three most important things you created? The hardest thing in fashion – having my own identifiable esthetic, artistic universe and a personal fashion DNA – the double panel pants. How closely knit is Textil company with what you create? A lot. It is my window into the world, an extended extremity and tools without which there would be no creation.
Intro
On a fashion mission. Nenad Radujević
Sometimes one needs to stop, catch a breath and look behind oneself. A look back at one’s own accomplishments, the doubts one overcame, the creative unrest and all our past doubts lead one more safely toward the future. Behind us, there is a long line of production, going back to 1991, when we first dedicated ourselves to the world of fabrics. We have grown up along with the Serbian fashion industry, its creators and their creative processes. Behind us are years and years of work which is why we have dedicated this new season to celebrating creative capacities. This is why we invite you at the beginning of autumn to believe together that we are: created to create!
In a time when almost no one could think about fashion in Serbia, during the 90s, Nenad Radujević already had a clear fashion mission, whose results are easily visible today. He is the founder and director of the Fashion Studio Click, which in 1996 decidedly started paving the way for the development of the local fashion scene. An important step in this process was establishing the Belgrade Fashion Week, which became a meeting point for fashion designers and other fashion creatives.
In this edition, together with fashion designers, we will consider what we have achieved on the one hand, while on the other, we will, as always, keep a watchful eye and be ready to interpret the upcoming trends. By the looks of it, you can allow yourself to be fully devoted to expressing your inner contradictions and creative impulses. The fashion industry is showing a tendency of changing between phases of whims and being totally cool. At this moment, we will all agree, it’s maximalism’s turn to shine, sequins and decorations, layers and layers of lace and unexpected combinations of colors. By choosing a maximalist trend you are in for a complex assignment. It’s a more demanding manner of dressing, which requires more of everything: more layers, more colors, more textures, more courage, more risk. It demands thinking and strategizing, a lot of enthusiasm, readiness and willingness to pile it all up. And hope for the best. What’s certain, it’s an insanely fun way of dressing up, which leaves a lot of room for self-expression and experimentation. Fashion critics offer various answers to the question where this maximalist trend came from – whether there is a reason for it or whether it’s something that tells us how women experience themselves. One possibility is that it shows us an experience of femininity, the other that it is a response to the general need for light and life and optimism in stressful times. Or is it just that mini has always been followed by maxi? Yet again, “too much of everything” is quite alright! Let’s enjoy it while it lasts! Jelena Pavlović creative director
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Do you and how do you recognize if someone is created to create or made to create? The first mission of the Click fashion studio was to gather various creatives working in the fashion arena. And ever since 1991 this has been our greatest quality. Now, whether it happened by accident or not, I don’t know, all I know is that we recognized each other and that many of our careers became entangled, we supported each other and we built something together which can only be called the Belgrade fashion scene. I am glad that we are being recognized by young people who weren’t even born in 1991 and that our open calls are being answered by a lot of new talents who we discover and support. The 46th Perwol Fashion Week will be no different with our Fashion Incubator, Noizz Fashion Award competition, BFW Instashot open call for young photographers, students’ fashion shows… What are your 3 favorite things that arose from the fashion world? If we’re talking about the world fashion and its history, for me, it’s those designers who contributed revolutionary moments that will forever be remembered as a turning point in fashion – the emergence of Coco Chanel and women wearing pants, Mari Quant and her mini skirt, as well as the fashion rebellion by Jean Paul Gaultier and the influence of street fashion on fashion designers. But if you’re referring to our region, then it’s definitely the first fashion show held in 1903 at queen Draga’s court, which was modeled on French show rooms; but also the fashion illustrations and the cover of American Vogue from 1940 featuring Milena Pavlovic Barili and the introduction of the course on contemporary fashion at the Academy of Applied Arts, which was launched by professor Anđelka Slijepčević in 1956, which will later be seen as the crucial and excellent base for the development and survival of our fashion scene and the advent of brilliant fashion designers.
What are your most important accomplishments so far? MS Click has existed and worked continuously for 28 years, and I believe I gave the answer on its biggest contributions in the first question. The Belgrade Fashion Week is also a result of that work and this year it will celebrate its 23rd birthday, i.e. its 46th edition. The third thing I am most proud of are the people, numerous creatives we’ve worked with, grown up with, learned and advanced together, from the first MS Click’s female models, who marked a whole decade, and who are still successful in their careers to this day, to various other creatives – photographers, graphic designers, set designers, and a plethora of designers who started their careers with us and who are now the best part of our fashion scene. How much has the fashion scene changed since the BFW was launched? Compared to the 90s, when the BFW was launched, everything in our society has been radically altered. The world has also seen drastic changes, in every possible respect, even fashion-wise. The fashion world also endured drastic changes, and one of these changes is the domination of companies that offer “fast” fashion. Such influences have also impacted us, but at the same time, our local fashion has struggled and developed – from a fashion industry, i.e. local brands, to a scene of auteur design, i.e. independent designers. Serbian fashion today is one of the rare industries that have continually brought added value, which is the essence of success of any industry. More and more independent designers and designer stores (more than 50 in Belgrade alone) are proof that success also develops fashion entrepreneurship, especially that of women and young people. We are often witnessing the international success of our designers, which proves their quality, and the Belgrade Fashion Week certainly contributes to this success. How do you keep up with trends when it comes to fabrics? I don’t work in fabric production directly so I don’t research any novelties in that department, but I believe the fabric design has become equally important as the construction of a model itself. I pay special respect to fabrics, because they give the entire concept a unique vision. I am so glad to see designers being able to play around with fabrics, which is not often the case in these parts.
IVANA PILJA Fashion designer Creating since 2010 Are you made to create? Creativity, fashion and art are an integral part of my life. I enjoy the creative process and creation itself, so, definitely, yes. What are the three most important things you created? My own brand, a recognizable direction and independence to be able to work on what I enjoy the most How closely knit is Textil company with what you create? Textil company has supported me from the very beginning and I am extremely grateful for that. Their choice of various fabrics has helped me realize many of my fashion collections. ALEKSANDAR PROTIĆ Fashion designer, costume designer CEO Atelier Aleksandar Protic, professor of fashion design at the Metropolitan University Creating since 1997 Are you made to create? Definitely. What are the three most important things you created? There are a lot of important things I have created and it’s hard to sort them according to significance, but one of them could very well be my creative expression, if we’re talking about the artistic part of my life How closely knit is Textil company with what you create? Part of my creative process certainly relates to my work with fashion design students at the Metropolitan University. Our cooperation with Textil company is very important and profoundly helps our students and future fashion designers with their education and developing their creativity.
Do you advocate natural or artificial fabrics? The natural has always had a huge priority with me in each segment of life. Natural materials such as cotton, silk, wool, flax had no adequate alternative until recently. However, with the advent of new technologies in fabrics production, some of which even replacing the properties of natural ones, there was a revolution in the fashion industry. In that regard, I trust my impression when I touch the fabric more than what I read on the declaration. How big of an influence does Textil company have on the local fashion scene? Textil has been a partner of the Belgrade Fashion week for years and for a long time now it has recognized independent designers as the movers of the local fashion scene. This fact alone makes it one of the biggest local fashion patrons. A large and well-presented assortment of fabrics is of crucial importance in choosing the right fabrics for designer collections, and this is the obvious quality of this company. In that sense, all Serbian brands, who are indeed following all the latest world fashion trends, have a remarkable partner when it comes to choosing all the right and trendy fabrics. It always brings me joy to see all the novelties of Textil’s palette of fabrics because they always inspire us to be more innovative. What would be the ideal course of development of the Serbian fashion industry? The local fashion industry would have to become a part of an industrial strategy. The local fashion industry is constantly improving, even without large investments and subsidies. It’s also important for our profession to work together and move things in the right direction. A good example is the cluster of our fashion and clothing industry – FACTS, which has managed to show the quality of the Serbian fashion industry. The cluster provides support to local brands and helps them become more visible and recognized. The region has lost its brands, and Serbia has a lot of them, and therein lies the opportunity. Many local brands have a huge potential of overcoming the barriers of the Balkans, and some have already done so, such as Ivko, which has positioned itself well on the global trend map. We must develop our own brands and designers and support the creativity of young talents, because they will shoulder this development in the future.
