marla marchant Industrial designer, PUCV. Master of arquitecture and design, nautical and maritime, PUCV. Fashion designer, Espacio Buenos Aires.
Volume
Attire/Garment Design
By studying one of the things that I got to understand is the conception of the shapes and volume from the plane, rather than the treatment of the material to reach a preconceived shape. To appropriate and develop this vision I have made it my starting point.
Technical Data Date: 03/2009 Materials: synthetic leather, sheepskin lining and rubber sole. Some padding was incorporated to achieve layering and their different heights.
Applying some constructive costume elements to obtain volume with a texture of organic lines.
Technical Data Date: 03/2009 Materials: Metallized leather upper, painted sheepskin lining, silver rubber.
Textures
rotations
Several are given to the pattern expanding the scope of the mold, these are folded at the time of the assembly.
Textures
Patterns and volume
Technical Data Date: 09/2009 Materials: napa leather upper, painted sheepskin lining, natural sole and rubber heel.
COLOR PALETTE
Model produced in a series of 18 pairs.
Experimenting with shapes and textures, achieving a sharper or more defined pleat.
This allows working with patterns and figures, adding pleats and ruffles, but in a seamless way.
Similarly, the pleat begins to have curved shapes that adhere better to the form which allows for an oblique configuration.
Technical Data Date: 05/2009 Materials: napa upper, natural sheepskin lining, natural sole and rubber heel.
Textures and Contrasts
The dresses are part of the final collection developed during my studies on attire. The texture achieved resulted from a sublimated fabric base covered by a transparent screen, sublimated as well, with tucks.
Applying the pattern expanding in the
heel
to obtain the texture in both pieces wich fix together to create another shape.
Technical Data Date: 06/2009 Materials: napa leather upper, painted sheepskin lining, natural sole and wooden heel.
Development began using mockup models in denim, on which the folds were simplified to project my first series design. A wooden heel was specially made with straight lines and a thinner base.
Technical Data Date: 09/2009 Materials: kid leather upper, painted sheepskin lining, natural sole and wooden heel wrapped in leather.
Model produced in a series of 20 pairs.
Custom-made
This model started out as a commission, the requirements were a pointed toe cap and fine high heels. The original sketches were made into a mockup; the models with tucks and pleating were the only ones developed.
Technical Data Date: 07/2009 Materials: kid leather upper, lining.
COLOR PALETTE
Textures and Contrasts Moreover, the texture with the application of a
contrasting color increases the sense of volume or overlapping layers in the cut.
high-contrast
Upon the idea of a two-tone combination a geometrical form is incorporated based on the graphic interpretation of the interference between waves.
The parallel strokes and bracelet in the frontal sketch
transposed
are to the heel in the next drawing.
Technical Data Date: 01/2011 Materials: napa leather, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
Formal sketch of the outline opposite the arch curvature of the foot.
Projection of the correlation between rings and the
foots arch
, phasing out the double curvature of the silhouette.
Technical Data Date: 02/05/2011 Materials: kid leather sole, natural, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
Technical Data Date: 01/2011 Materials: kid leather sole, natural, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
Technical Data Date: 02/05/2011 Materials: kid leather, garment napa trimmings, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
Enveloping Volume
Technical Data Date: 07/2009 Materials: the upper made from goat leather used for clothing, plain and printed suede, and thin napa leather layers.
COLOR PALETTE
This model was produced in 3 heel heights in a series of approximately 35 pairs.
Short boots
Following on the earlier premise, the use of pleads on the boot shaft is considered, and eventually the natural folds of leather are maintained.
Technical Data Date: 07/2009 Materials: napa leather upper, sheepskin lining, natural sole and covered wooden heel.
Enveloping Volume
The classic silhouette of the form is intervened by a continuous asymmetric line, which closes in on itself. The heels are built for the form in wood, using a more stylish classic design.
Technical Data Date: 24/06/2009 Materials: leather upper, natural sole and wooden heel. While some pairs were constructed, the series of 25 pairs was produced on March the following year.
The tendency to encapsulate itself into curved shapes due to the surface tension and the ascending spiral waves of smoke.
wraps on
itself by The proposed piece being pieced together as a whole, the fabrics alternating their sides to become visible.
Technical Data Date: 07/2009 Materials: Napa leather upper and kid leather trimmings, natural sole, rubber heel wrapped in leather.
COLOR PALETTE
Technical Data Date: 04/2010 Materials: Napa leather upper, kid leather lining, natural sole, rubber heel wrapped in natural sole.
Technical Data Date: 05/2010 Materials: Napa leather upper, kid leather lining, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
COLOR PALETTE
Cutouts
The enveloping voluminous strokes were simplified into curved lines through cuts and flaps.
Technical Data Date: 08/2009 Materials: Napa leather upper, natural sole, rubber heel wrapped in leather.
Outline displacement
The high heel stylizes the contour lines; to achieve a low shoe a new sequence of sketches was made displaying the modified outlines.
Technical Data Date: 08/2009 Materials: Napa leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
VERTICAL 2 Enveloping Asymmetry
The collection has the fluids as its subject; the garments are born inspired on one of the observations, the ability to adapt to the space that contains them and the fragmented way of covering the surfaces getting back together while maintaining continuity. Which leads me to think about each shoe as an enveloping object that breaks the silhouette with its asymmetric cuts.
Technical Data Date: 11/2008 Materials: Napa leather upper, sheepskin lining, natural sole and rubber heel.
Technical Data Date: 04/2009 Materials: napa leather upper, sheepskin lining, natural sole and rubber heel.
The concept is also developed by means of applications on basic shapes. Technical Data Date: 04/2009 Materials: patent leather upper, napa leather trimming, sheepskin lining, natural sole and rubber heel.
Technical Data Date: 10/2009 Materials: napa leather upper and trimmings, sheepskin lining, natural sole and rubber heel.
COLOR PALETTE Technical Data Date: 08/2009 Materials: Napa leather upper, sheepskin lining, natural sole and wooden heel.
winter
COLOR PALETTE
summer
Working with color by means of cutouts and overlapping parts that assemble as a package would, such as envelopes or boxes.
Technical Data Date: 04/2009 Materials: Napa leather upper, sheepskin lining, natural sole and wooden heel.
Overlapping layers
Technical Data Date: 06/2009 Materials: Napa leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
COLOR PALETTE
The first sketches are presented as an
interpolation
of the shapes from the heel to the upper, in the same way that the repetition of contained shapes obtained by changing magnitude does.
In the case of uppers these are intended
planes
that contain and displace as themselves leaving small spaces between them to create volume.
To achieve changes in the pieces thickness as well, filler material is added to the lining on the heel.
Technical Data Date: 06/2009 Materials: Leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
Pattern and volume
the pattern
Initially was thought-out with cut and pasted pieces with a 2 mm spacing in a background with a contrasting color. Given the difficulty of the process, I decided to work seams into the patter and fabric and to achieve volume using filler material.
Technical Data Date: 06/2009 Materials: Leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
Pattern and volume COLOR PALETTE
weaving patterns
The development of starts out as a proposal for costume garments, which is subsequently applied to the shoe.
Technical Data Date: 09/2009 Materials: Leather upper, sheepskin lining, natural sole and rubber heel.
Parallel and intertwined patterns
Garments designed taking its starting point on the Com des Garces 2008 collection, which uses petticoats as a source of inspiration. Incorporating the outlines of barbs and ties from the
corsets
opens up the work to parallel and intertwined lines that cling to the foot’s shape.
COLOR PALETTE
Technical Data Date: 10/2009 Materials: Kid leather, natural sole, rubber heel wrapped in leather.
defined strokes
Straight lines plus simple and are used, contributing to the overall tidiness of the garment.
Technical Data Date: 11/2008 Materials: Kid leather, natural sole, rubber heel wrapped in leather.
Sketches of the main features and development process.
Technical Data Date: 11/2008 Materials: Kid leather, natural sole, rubber heel wrapped in leather.
Patterns and transparency
Technical Data Date: 12/2010 Materials: Laser cut napa leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
Mock draft
Cutting shapes and patterns
The inability to resist strain by dividing itself into
small fragments
, like the rain that rejoins the water´s surface with small sparks and becomes visible, is another of the premises that inspires the work with patterns and transparencies.
Technical Data Date: 12/2010 Materials: Laser cut napa leather upper, natural sole, rubber heel.
The pattern incorporates the shapes of branches of
winter trees in abstract form.
branches of tree picture.
Wooden heels
Technical Data Date: 07/2010 Materials: Leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in natural sole.
COLOR PALETTE
To open up possibilities for the manufacture of wooden heels, left pending some time ago.
A simple but real manufacturing concept is presented, to cut the heel longitudinally and horizontally, from it we extract and modify the position and size of the pieces like a
jigsaw puzzle.
Technical Data Date: 09/2010 Materials: Leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
It is intended for the heel to become the main feature, achieved by using a reduced classic cut in bright colors in contrast to its natural finish.
Technical Data Date: 07/2010 Materials: Leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in natural sole.
COLOR PALETTE
COLOR PALETTE
To create continuity in the shape a bracelet that extends to cover the whole heel is incorporated.
Technical Data Date: 10/2010 Materials: Leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.
Returning to the corset´s interlacing concept to incorporate it into the continuity of the heel. COLOR PALETTE
Technical Data Date: 09/2010 Materials: Leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.