Redesigning i-D Magazine by Martin Knorr

NO. 327 FALL 2013

I-DEAS, FASHION, MUSIC, PEOPLE

9 77026 2 35 71 1 2

£6.00 $13.99

NATALIA VODIANOVA BY WILLY VANDERPERRE

TOGETHER THE CREATIVE COLLABORATORS ISSUE

insi-De

22 His many legs, pitifully thin compared with the size of the rest of him 26 He lay on his armour-like back

32 It wasn‘t a dream

28 A collection of textile samples spread out on the table

42 Travelling day in and day out 48 He slid back into his former position 55 I ought to just try that with my boss 56 However hard he threw himself onto his right

164 Julia Hafstrom in wind roses by Txema Yeste PHOTOGRAPHY BY TXEMA YESTE STYLING BY BELÉN CASADEVALL

102 Worries about making train connections, bad and irregular 112 Travelling day in and day out 64 He felt a slight itch up on his belly pushed himself slowly up on his back

114 He slid back into his former position

89 On top of that there‘s the curse of travelling

insi-De

insi-De the creative collaborators issue

122 Nicolas Ghesquière erzählt von seiner Arbeit für Louis Vuitton TEXT BY HOLLY SHACKLETON

I-D No. 327

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GLEN LUCHFORD

121 I ought to just try that with my boss

128 In the mood for nude PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT JONES

140 However hard he threw himself onto his right

STYLING BY HAVANA LAFFITTE

146 He felt a slight itch up on his belly pushed himself slowly up on his back 152 On top of that there‘s the curse of travelling 170 Worries about making train connections, bad and irregular

imprint

I-D No. 327

the creative collaborators issue

Editor-in-chief Holly Shackleton

Designer Laura Liggins

Contributors Jung Maciel, Tomi

Tiana Mccafferty, Tamiko Lazos,

i-D Germany

Creative Director Martin Knorr

Fashion Feature Editor

Tessier, Abbey Bulloch, Marcus

Viviana Tse, August Hieb, Russ

Rungestr. 22-24

Fashion Director

Anders Christian Madsen

Profitt, Dione Koziel, Marco Raley,

Zerangue, Ashly Sarver, Lacey

10179 Berlin

Alastair McKimm

Features Editor Bertie Brandes

Rose Zander, Britta Teegarden,

Oster, Fallon Fennell, Pearline

Germany

Executive Fashion

Music Editor Hattie Collins

Peter Brough, Johnette Markwell,

Fehrenbach, Charis Vergara,

Editor Ger Tierney

Beauty Editor Isamaya Ffrench

Galen Troutt, Mika Headen, Jen-

Lanelle Roquemore, Tiny Adams,

i-D United Kingom

Managing Editor

Arts Editor Kathy Grayson

nette Manzanares, Wynona Ro-

Daniele Pecora, Loma Vieira,

Levelprint Ltd.

Lynette Nylander

Film editor Tom Seymour

loff, Jefferey Seal, Danika Chute,

Leona Haecker, Jeanette Toppin,

t/a i-D Magazine

Fashion Editor Jack Borkett

Culture Correspondent

Andre Didion, Emmaline Moultrie,

Melina Lessman, Lanie Swoope,

New North Place

Fashion Editor at large

Princess Julia

Cory Riggin, Many Torres, Lois

Tillie Verdin, Deanna Bish, Glenn

London, EC2A 4JA

Julia sarr-jamois

Assitant Editor Felicity Kinsella

Stoneham, Romaine Clem,

Beaudin, Cleta Zepp, Eleonora

production@i-d.co

Designer Laura Liggins

Intern Tish Weinstock

Beverlee Alva, Beatriz Sprvill, Kelsi

Leaver, Modesta Byam, Sharie

Fashion Feature Editor

Designer Laura Liggins

Gravitt, Marylyn Torrez, Winnifred

Widrick, Ruby Ranck, Tyisha Moro-

Anders Christian Madsen

Fashion Feature Editor

Stecklein, Tamara Lintner, Salome

nta, Laurette Philpott, Madeleine

Features Editor Bertie Brandes

Anders Christian Madsen

Voisine, Zachariah Oiler, Eusebio

Kaler, Thomas Chewning

Music Editor Hattie Collins

Features Editor Bertie Brandes

Packett, Elda Broadnax, Tanna

Beauty Editor Isamaya Ffrench

Music Editor Hattie Collins

Bengtson, Elease Vorce, Mavis

Arts Editor Kathy Grayson

Beauty Editor Isamaya Ffrench

Madry, Jeff Markham, Chiquita

Film editor Tom Seymour

Arts Editor Kathy Grayson

Seiden, Ardis Hillis, Chester Fris-

Redesign Martin Knorr

Culture Correspondent

Film editor Tom Seymour

cia, Tia Majka, Concetta Gravel,

Dozent

Princess Julia

Culture Correspondent

Libbie Washer, Derick Dahlman,

Dipl.-Des. Jan Hendrik Weig

Assitant Editor Felicity Kinsella

Princess Julia

Ciera Dragoo, Dani Cimino, Drew

Kurs K&E Editorial / Magazinge-

Intern Tish Weinstock

Assitant Editor Felicity Kinsella

Sin, Ernesto Draughn, Arie Kindle,

staltung SS 2015 FH Aachen

Founder Terry Jones

Contributors

Bruce Weber He lay on his armour-like back, and if he lifted his head a little he could see his brown belly, slightly domed and divided by arches into stiff sections. The bedding was hardly able to cover it and seemed ready to slide off any moment.

Contributors Wolfgang Tillmans A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table Samsa was a travelling salesman - and Benjamin Bruno

above it there hung

He lay on his ar-

a picture that he had

mour-like back, and

recently cut out of an

if he lifted his head a

illustrated magazine

little he could see his

and housed in a nice,

brown belly, slightly

gilded frame.

domed and divided by arches into stiff sections. The bedding was hardly able to cover it and seemed ready to slide off any moment.

Gosha Rubchinskiy One morning, when Gregor Samsa woke from troubled dreams, he found himself transformed in his bed into a horrible vermin.

Bertie Brandes A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table - Samsa was a travelling salesman and above it there hung a picture that he had recently cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame.

straight-ups

straight-ups Open your eyes! Gorgeous girls in good ol' US of A, sweet souls in Seoul and new faces in the Netherlands. Beauty is universal and we've got the snaps from around the globe to prove it!

Sara Holmberg

Where are you from? Santa Barbara. What do you do? I‘m a lingerie designer, model, and actor. Where‘s your favourite LA hangout? My bedroom. What was the last song that got stuck in your head? Corinne by Metronomy and Driving Wheel by Little Junior Parker What's the best thing about being young in 2015? Opportunity. What are you up to this weekend? I usually don‘t plan ahead. I think I may be going to my friends‘ show. What the best thing about living in LA? My friends.

Where are you from?

Who would you make prime minister?

Stockholm.

Me. I would make myself the prime

What do you do?

minister. The parliament seems to be

I study acting full time.

in desperate need of a party girl with

What do you stand up for?

too-short skirts.

I stand up for every girl's right to

What's the best thing about being

dress and act however the fuck

young in 2015?

they want; trashy, crazy, boring or

One of the best things is definitely

whatever and not feeling weird for

emojis. Being able to fuck people no

doing so. Because we aren't politi-

matter what colour and seeing the

cal for being ourselves.

world slowly change for the better.

Sarah Simmons

straight-ups

Where are you from?

Yana Bovenistier

Ventnor on the Isle of Wight. What do you do? I'm a photographic assistant. What are you wearing from head to toe? Rapha and Folk. How would your friends describe you? A guy with Obsessive Compulsive Cycling Disorder What song are you playing on repeat right now?

Sasha Trishina

What's the best thing about being young in 2015?

Where are you from?

Having minimum res-

Oostende, Belgium.

Kiev, Ukraine.

ponsibilities.

What do you do in daily life?

What do you do?

What's the best party

I‘m a model.

I take photographs and study

you've ever been to

What would you be doing in daily

French Philology.

and why was it so

life if money wasn‘t an issue and

How would you define beauty?

good?

you could do everything you‘d like?

Beauty comes from the inside. The-

I can't remember it…

I would just enjoy myself, and would

re are no beautiful people without

If you could ask the

no longer do anything I didn‘t

charisma, intelligence and humour.

world one question

feel like doing. I would travel a lot

What is your idea of perfect beauty?

and get the answer,

because I love being on the road.

Serge Gainsbourg.

what would you ask?

Also help other people wherever I

Who is the most beautiful person in

What would happen

could. Just living in the sun, eating

the world?

if you jumped into a

a lot and eventually making a few

There are so many beautiful people

black hole?

babies.

on earth, it is too hard to single one

What are you wearing?

out. All people are beautiful!

I‘m wearing Adidas track pants,

Do you think you‘re beautiful?

a gift from my boyfriend – I wear

Like many people I have lots of

them a lot. My turtleneck is vintage

complexes – I try to accept my

from Teens and the USA sweater

flaws. I‘m in the process of manu-

is vintage as well. That one was a

facturing my own beauty.

gift from a friend. My grandmother

How has technology/social me-

gave me the jewellery, they are

dia affected our ideals of beauty

from Congo, where she came from.

today?

What are you dreaming of doing

Social media is simply magical.

this summer?

Is beauty really in the eye of the

I‘ll just see where it goes. Hopeful-

beholder?

ly I‘m working on a lot of projects

Who knows?

Kendal Noctor

because I don‘t like to sit still.

i-D magaz pioneered hybrid sty document fashion ph graphy ca The Straig At first, th were of pu and new w youth foun English str and who w simply ask stand aga any nearb wall. The r ting pictur – the subje facing the mera and from „top toe“ – are historical mentary p graphy arc and have e lished the „straight u a valid sty document picture-m

I-D No. 327

Vamala, CHAMPS.

straight-ups

Where are you from?

everything. But I think rapidly

Chicago, but I grew up in LA.

advancing technology and

What do you do?

social media could also be

I play guitar and sing in my

the death of us.

band, Cherry Glazerr.

What are you up to this

What's your favourite LA han-

weekend?

gout?

I'm going to go see Fuzz at

Amoeba. It's the best music

this new venue downtown

store in LA, I can spend hours

called The Regent. They are

there. I also like Elysian Park on

pretty rad.

a warm evening.

What's the best thing about

What was the last song that

living in LA?

got stuck in your head?

Watching this constant flow

Nirvana, In Bloom.

of creativity. Knowing excep-

What's the best thing about

tional artists that consis-

being young in 2015?

tently grow and being to see

Having quick and easy access to

their shows, exhibitions and

Jim Turnbull Walter

gazine information about anything and movies on a regular basis. red the Clementine style of entary/ n photocalled raight Up. , these Zoe Bleu Sidel f punks w wave ound on streets Where are you from? o were Los Angeles asked to What do you do? against I‘m taking time off from school at the moarby blank ment and doing some styling, working on my he resulown designs, doing some theatre here and ctures there. ubjects Where‘s your favourite LA hangout? the caUgh goodness, I know it sounds obnoxious nd seen but I love going to the Chateau. op to What was the last song that got stuck in are a vivid your head? cal docuMoving by Kate Bush. ry photoWhat's the best thing about being young in archive 2015? ve estabHmm... for me it‘s been all about dress up he posed and tea parties. ht up“ as What are you up to this weekend? style of My best friend, Sophia Bedolla, is having her entary sculptures premiered in a gallery, so I‘ll be -making. celebrating with her! What the best thing about living in LA? The sunshine and waking up everyday to the ocean.

Creevy Where are you from? London. What do you do? I take photos. Style photos. Work part time at elegantly papered magazine archive. What do you stand up for? Inequality and the small elite who get richer and richer, whilst others slip below the poverty line. Who do you look to for inspiration when it comes to standing up for what you believe in? Vivienne Westwood because she strives to make the world a better place. If you could choose anyone in the world to be prime minister, who would you choose and why? Pepper LaBeija aka Legendary Mother. Need I say more. Best thing about being young in 2015? Being young.

straight-ups

Blue Sumrie

Where are you from? I‘m originally from North West London but I currently live in Brighton. What do you do? I‘m a model with Elite London and in my spare time I walk my dog along the Brighton seafront. What do you stand up for? I stand up for feminism, animal rights and against oppression. Who do you look to for inspiration when it comes to standing up for what you believe in? Lots of people. At the moment? Mike Brown, an 18-year-old unarmed black man shot dead by police in Ferguson, his death started the „Hands up, Don‘t shoot!“ protests. If you could choose anyone in the world to be prime minister, who would you choose and why? Most likely Stephen Fry, I think his

I-D No. 327

views should be refreshing as prime minister. Best thing about being young in 2015?

Teuntje Bril

The possibility to create change, but being young at this time definitely comes with its downfalls.

Where are you from? Amsterdam. What do you do in daily life?

What are you wearing?

I study artificial intelligence and philo-

The skirt is from Agnes B and the turtleneck is

sophy.

from Brandy Melville.

What would you be doing in daily life if

What is your guilty pleasure?

money wasn't an issue and you could

Watching crimes dramas, no doubt. It doesn't

do everything you'd like?

really matter which one – I watch them all. There

I would be travelling a lot - there are

were times that for every day of the week I knew

so many places I'd love to go. Besides

which crime series aired on which channel at

that I think I'd be doing exactly the

which time.

same thing I'm doing now. I like to

What are you dreaming of doing this summer?

think that what I'm doing now is really

I would like to travel through France, go touring

going to make me happy, and that I

in a car on small country roads with good mu-

don't make decisions based on money.

sic… My romantic dream.

article

One morning, when Gregor Samsa woke from troubled dreams One morning, when Gregor Samsa woke from troubled dreams, he found

Travelling day in and day out. Doing business

himself transformed in his bed into a horrible vermin. He lay on his ar-

like this takes much more effort than doing your

mour-like back, and if he lifted his head a little he could see his brown belly,

own business at home, and on top of that the-

slightly domed and divided by arches into stiff sections. The bedding was

re‘s the curse of travelling, worries about making

hardly able to cover it and seemed ready to slide off any moment.

train connections, bad and irregular food, contact with different people all the time so that

His many legs, pitifully thin compared with the size of the rest of him, wa-

you can never get to know anyone or become

ved about helplessly as he looked. „What‘s happened to me? „ he thought.

friendly with them. It can all go to Hell!

It wasn‘t a dream. His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls.

„ He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed

board so that he could lift his head better; found

travelling salesman - and above it there hung a picture that he had recent-

where the itch was, and saw that it was covered

ly cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame.

with lots of little white spots which he didn‘t

It showed a lady fitted out with a fur hat and fur boa who sat upright,

know what to make of; and when he tried to feel

raising a heavy fur muff that covered the whole of her lower arm towards

the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly

the viewer.

back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder.

He slid back into his former position. „Getting

„Oh, God“, he thought, „what a

up early all the time“, he thought, „it makes you stupid. You‘ve got to get enough sleep. Other

strenuous career it is that I‘ve

travelling salesmen live a life of luxury. For instance, whenever I go back to the guest house

chosen!“

during the morning to copy out the contract, these gentlemen are always still sitting there

– Franz Kafka

eating their breakfasts.

I ought to just try that with my boss; I‘d get Gregor then turned to look out the window at the dull weather. Drops of

kicked out on the spot. But who knows, maybe

rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. „How

that would be the best thing for me. If I didn‘t

about if I sleep a little bit longer and forget all this nonsense“, he thought,

have my parents to think about I‘d have given in

but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to

my notice a long time ago, I‘d have gone up to

sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn‘t get into that positi-

the boss and told him just what I think, tell him

on.

everything I would, let him know just what I feel. He‘d fall right off his desk!

However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn‘t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before. „Oh, God“, he thought, „what a strenuous career it is that I‘ve chosen!

Text Franz Kafka

I-D No. 327

himself slowly up on his back towards the headA collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table - Samsa was a

What to wear

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I-D No. 327

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What to wear

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I-D No. 327

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What to wear

bralettes you actually want people to see The way to pull off a slouchy tank or transparent tee is by pairing it with a chic bralette. Opt for a cotton or lace option – they come in a variety of colors and styles, so you‘ll never get bored. Check out our top picks! Silence + Noise, gina racerback bra $ 34.00

Bodas, jabouley lace soft bra $ 118.00

Free People, gallon lace deep v bra $ 44.00

What to wear

Eres, estampe pastel lace soft-cup bra $ 385.00

Kimchi Blue, lace racerback surplice triangle bra $ 29.00

Talula, lace bralet

I-D No. 327

$ 25.00

Aerie, lace halter bralette $ 24.95

In the mood for nude

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In the mood for nude

The practice of retouching isn’t always sinister, but where do we draw the line between artistic vision and the peddling of homogenous ideas of beauty? This new

ges us to bare all… PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT JONES STYLING HAVANA LAFFITTE

When does making yourself ‚beautyful‘ become too extreme? If you go overboard. Always be yourself, don‘t try too hard and

Chances are unless your face is your money-

don‘t take yourself too seriously.

maker or you have an impeccably groomed

How has social media affected our

online personality (I'm looking at you YouTube

ideals of beauty?

Photoshop tutorials) you won't have had much

So much has changed in the last

direct experience of retouching. Instead, most

few years. It‘s all about selfies,

people know it largely by its blunders: the ter-

looking sexy, who has the most

rible magazine covers where celebrities' arms

followers and likes. It‘s important,

sprout from their rib cages, or editorials where

it‘s part of my job, but you can

supermodels' thighs have been enthusiastically

lose yourself fast is you only worry

dissected and re-formed. Despite its ubiquity,

about what others think of you.

airbrushing and digitally slimming models down

@furrerronja

has a pretty bad reputation and for good reason. It's hard to imagine many people disagre-

Ronja Furrer, 22, Model

eing that the excessive retouching of models and

I-D No. 327

year Bertie Brandes encoura-

In the mood for nude

When do you feel most beautiful? When I‘m with my friends. What is the most beautiful feature on a person? The human mind is very weird but beautiful. @mona__offi

Mona Matsuoka, 16, Model

MONA WEARS TOP VINTAGE HYSTERIC GLAMOUR. EARRINGS MONA‘S OWN.

In the mood for nude

Define beauty… I would define beauty by personality. Who is the most beautiful person in the world? The most beautiful is the funniest. When do you feel most beautiful? I feel most beautiful after a long day in the spa. When does making yourself ‚beautful‘ become too extreme? It becomes too extreme when there is too much make-up. What is the most beautiful feature on a person? A sense of humor is the most beautiful for me. Is beauty in the eye of the beholder? Yes. @karmen_pedaru

Karmen Pedaru,

I-D No. 327

24, Model

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In the mood for nude

Define beauty… When someone‘s inner joy reflects onto their outward appearance. Who is the most beautiful person in the world? To me, my sister Ishbel. When do you feel most beautiful? When I‘m with my family in the countryside, when I‘m truly happy and at ease. When does making yourself ‚beautiful‘ become too extreme? As soon as you start to change the person you are, or try to dress like someone you‘re not. What is the most beautiful feature on a person? Hands and lips… they‘re the most receptive parts of our bodies. How has social media affected our ideals of beauty? Through having access to unrealistic images on a 24 hour basis via the obsession we have with our smartphones. @mathilda_lowther

Matilda Lowther, 19, Art student and Model

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celebrities is a particularly negative aspect of the media. South Park made

That said, there should be more thought to this

an entire episode about it, so it's hardly a niche perspective. The idea that

argument than just a grunt of disapproval and

women ought to be airbrushed into often anatomically impossible shapes

a Change.org petition. From a creative perspec-

is clearly troubling; in her 2009 book One Dimensional Woman, feminist

tive there‘s really nothing wrong with editing

critic Nina Power describes Photoshop as having turned "fashion photo-

photographs, and while pretty much every pho-

graphy into something you'd want to lick, rather than emulate", and while

tograph you see in fashion magazines will have

there are a few photographers and stylists who have made a kind of sickly

been Photoshopped, it‘s often simply to bring

glossiness their trademark, she's absolutely right that women's bodies

out colours or textures, which would otherwise

in magazines and advertising are often so far from recognisable they

have been lost. The idea of losing something is

look more like freshly glazed doughnuts. Retouching doesn't have a great

interesting in other ways too. Digital photogra-

reputation and it probably shouldn't; it's pretty hard to argue in favour of

phs often feel too flat, too real. Perhaps as the

a practice that seems, at its very core, to be concerned with homogenising

magic of shooting film becomes increasingly

beauty.

expensive, photographers are looking for diffe-

In the mood for nude

„I feel most beautiful when someone close to my heart says it.“

I-D No. 327

– Andreea Diaconu

Andreea Diaconu, 23, Model What is the most beautiful feature on a person? I love clavicles and backs. And my obvious cheesy answer – their smile. How has social media affected our ideals of beauty? It has created even faster trends. Is beauty really in the eye of the beholder? Yes, I don‘t drink, but sometimes it‘s in the eyes of the beer-holder! @andreeadiddy ANDREEA WEARS SHIRT NLST.

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Anya Lyagoshina, 18, Model When does making yourself ‚beautful‘ become too extreme? When people don‘t connect with their natural beauty and start to get weird plastic surgery. What is the most beautiful feature on a person? Eyes are very important. They can express everything without saying a word. @anya.lyagoshina ANYA WEARS JACKET LEVI‘S.

In the mood for nude

rent ways to experiment on super-clear, sophisticated digital images. As far as I‘m concerned, retouching only becomes problematic when the final image is lazily attempting to deceive or manipulate its audience. It helps to think of it as part of a dialogue between the photographer and the viewer, but more important is just to think about it at all, something which a lot of the time is easier to avoid. It‘s a mistake to ignore the nuances just because it‘s easier to have a blanket opinion. Knee-jerk airbrushing to promote deceptively natural, aspirational ideals is bad, yes, but that‘s not the end of the story. There is, among the infinitely extended cleavage and grotesquely cropped waistlines, a genuinely compelling argument in favour of retouching. It might be distasteful to lengthen and slim bodies digitally, but isn‘t it more distasteful to censor every artist‘s or photographer‘s vision in order to fit with acceptable cultural principles? People talk a lot about how retouched images are damaging young women‘s body-confidence, but

I-D No. 327

retouching and image altering goes further than the Victoria‘s Secret tween catalogue.

Ysaunny Brito, 20, Model What is the most beautiful feature on a person? A smile! How has social media affected our ideals of beauty? Social media reaches a giant crowd in a split second and creates so many new ideas. Our ideals become standardised because everyone can access and share their views all over the world. @ysaunny3 YSAUNNY WEARS T-SHIRT WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND VINTAGE.

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Define beauty… An undefinable thing that makes each person special in a different way. Who is the most beautiful person in the world? It would be unfair if there was one. When do you feel most beautiful? When appreciated by the man I love. When does making yourself ‚beautiful‘ become too extreme? When you start obsessing about others beauty and forget who you are. What is the most beautiful feature on a person? Ambition. How has social media affected our ideals of beauty? It created a fake, perfect world that is eye cathing, overexposed and filtered. Instead of focusing on transmission of content through pictures it became all about showing ideal beauty that doesn‘t exist in the real world. @jacsmonika

Monika „Jac“ Jagaciak 20, Model JAC WEARS T-SHIRT MELET MERCANTILE. EARRINGS MARIA TASH.

In the mood for nude

Sure, doctoring an image of a woman‘s body, in

done in the pursuit of a „better“ image, I couldn‘t help but feel a bit like a

the quest for the absolutely aspirational, in or-

lipsticked Frankenstein‘s monster. I feel like over-zealous retouching is pro-

der to sell you things, is gross, but retouching to

bably turning us all back into our self-conscious tweenage selves.

pursue a creative idea that somehow supersedes capitalism is altogether different. Away from

I guess what it boils down to is how we understand beauty. To me, beauty

the mainstream, people like Jeff Koons, Nick

is about variety, and if airbrushing is about pushing homogenous ideas of

Knight or more recently PC Music have embra-

aspirational beauty then there needs to be enough variation to counterba-

ced ideas of Photoshop as part of their artistic

lance that aesthetic. Instead of simply calling out people for doing things

heritage - in their hands homogeny can become

we disagree with, let‘s make a concerted effort to embrace a wider world

self-aware and funny, and retouched or digitally

of beauty. If aliens came to earth today and tried to understand humani-

re-imagined images are an essential element to

ty through the media, they‘d think we were all honey-coloured, lithe and

their aesthetic.

beach-ready. In fact, we‘re lumpy, freckly, greasy and totally unique, and that‘s a beautiful thing. Basically, thank God the sellotape didn‘t change

Clearly the issue is more complex than sim-

my nose. Or suffocate me.

ply forcing everybody to put a red stamp on anything that isn‘t fresh from the photographer‘s USB stick. First and foremost, there‘s a difference between high fashion and highly commercial advertising, which needs to be taken into account, because the minute we start policing how everything ought to be done chances are

„I feel most beautiful

quietly back to the conservative. If I‘m starting to sound like one of those people who refuses

when appreciated by

to acknowledge the effect media can have on people‘s self-confidence, now is probably the

the man I love.“

time to say I‘ve found myself on the wrong side of retouching before and it sucked.

– Jac Jagaciak

While I‘m all for creative freedom and think the idea of having disclaimers on all retouched photographs is too extreme, when it comes to mindless manipulation of images, there‘s no question that something needs to change. More than once somebody in a lab somewhere has decided to slim out my nose, using what looks to me like a haphazardly placed stripe of 5 o‘clock shadow. It felt weird and kind of embarrassing, and even though the picture is hanging on my grandma‘s wall, she told me a few weeks ago that it doesn‘t really look anything like me and she wants a new one. I agree. When I was 11 my best friend and I used to sellotape our noses up into a Sweet Valley High „ski-jump“ before we went to bed, in

Text Bertie Brandes Photography Matt Jones Styling Havanna Laffitte Hair Marco Braca da Kramer + Kramer Make-up Itsuki da BRIDGE Artists per La Mer

the hope we might wake up looking like WASAssistant stylist Rochelle Adam Assistant hair Rieko Shiba Assistant make-up Arisa

PS. Obviously that‘s something you grow out of

Retouching Lovely NYC Scatti ai Jack Studios di New York Models Anya L, Ysaunny Brito

(and unstick, after about four minutes) and by

and Sophie Touchet at The Society. Mona Matsuoka, Andreea Diaconu, Karmen Pedaru,

my twenties I couldn‘t care less, until somebody

Jacquelyn Jablonski, Jac Jagaciak and Ronja Furrer at IMG. Matilda Lowther at Select.

decided to care for me, and even though it was

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we‘ll start finding our liberal intentions twisting

Nicolas Ghesquière erzählt von seiner Arbeit für Louis Vuitton

Wenn sich einer der einflussreichsten Modedesigner und eines der größten Luxuslabels der Welt zusammentun, darf man zurecht Großes erwarten. Gerade hat Nicolas Ghesquière die Modewelt in Palm Springs mit seiner neusten Kreation für Louis Vuitton in Erstaunen versetzt. Wir gehen an den Anfang zurück und schauen auf seine erste Kollektion, die alles war, was man sich von einem Debüt erhoffen konnte. TEXT BY HOLLY SHACKLETON PHOTOGRAPHY BY GLEN LUCHFORD

I-D No. 327

Nicolas Ghesquière erzählt von seiner Arbeit für Louis Vuitton

SASHA TRÄGT KLEIDUNG UND ACCESSOIRES VON LOUIS VUITTON. BY GLEN LUCHFORD

Nicolas Ghesquière erzählt von seiner Arbeit für Louis Vuitton

Als sich die Rollläden in dem eigens für die „Louis Vuitton“-Show temporär erbauten Showroom im Hof des Louvre öffneten, flutete Sonnenlicht den Laufsteg. Aus den Lautsprechern tönte „Copy Cat“ von Skream feat. Kelis als Freja Beha Erichsen mit einem schwarzen Ledermantel in A-Linie, der einen farblich abgesetzten braunen Kragen hat, die Show eröffnete und Geschichte schrieb.

Die Debütkollektion von Nicolas Ghesquière für Louis Vuitton wurde von vielen sehnlichst erwartet. Die Vorfreude unter den Modejournalisten und Fans war riesig, weil die Modewelt einen der talentiertesten Modedesigner unserer Generation wieder in ihren Reihen willkommen hieß. Der Neuanfang unter Nicolas lässt sich so zusammenfassen: retro trotzdem modern, gerade dennoch weich. Gefragt über seinen Ansatz, antwortet Nicolas: „Ich hatte eine Vision, nicht wirklich eine Strategie. Ich wusste von Beginn an, dass ich keine trendy Modekollektion machen wollte, weil ich tief in die Kleiderschränke von vielen verschiedenen Frauen vordringen möchte.“

Wenn es darum geht, die Silhouette der Saison zu definieren, kommt an Nicolas Ghesquière keiner vorbei. Als er für Balenciaga gearbeitet hat, haben seine skulpturalen Designs die Mode 15 Jahre lang geprägt. Der Schwerpunkt seiner ersten Kollektion für Louis Vuitton lag jedoch auf geraden Schnitten. Die Taillen der Kleider und Röcke reichen gerade so bis unter den Brustkorb, was den architektonischen Charakter der Röcke

Nicolas Ghesquière erzählt von seiner Arbeit für Louis Vuitton

betont. Daneben umfasste die Kollektion Rollkragen-Pullover mit klobigen Reißverschlüssen und sportliche Jacken mit spitzen Kragen sowie mit blauen und brauen Pailletten als Zitate auf die Après-Ski-Mode aus den Siebzigern. Stoffe spielten eine entscheidende Rolle - lederne Riemchenkleider, gefolgt von Röcken aus Bouclé, einem braunen Wildlederkleid in A-Linie mit blau und violett changierenden Applikationen, die wie Lametta schimmern, sowie einen schwarzen Mantel aus Kroko-Leder.

Das ist Kleidung, die man anfassen möchte; die man durch deine Finger gleiten lassen möchte; die man erleben möchte und am wichtigsten: die man tragen möchte. Was die Accessoires angeht: die Ohrringe, die schwarzen Stiefel, die Taschen. Jedes Teil hat einen Must-Have-Touch mit Kultpotenzial. Laut WWD generieren Lederwaren 90 Prozent der Umsätze von Louis Vuitton. Nicolas‘ Ziel ist es, diese Lücke zu schließen und Ready-to-Wear durch eine kunstvolle Synthese

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der beiden wieder nach vorne zu bringen. „Ich denke, dass wir momentan einen Popmoment in der Mode und in der Kunst erleben“, sagt Nicolas. „Mode wird heute von vielen geliebt, sie wollen mitmachen und dazugehören. Wir sollten das würdigen und etwas daraus machen.“

Nicolas wurde 1971 in der Nähe von Lille geboren und wuchs in der Kleinstadt Loudun im Loire-Tal auf. Er wusste schon immer, dass er Modedesigner werden wollte: „Ich hatte eine sehr glückliche und beschützte Kindheit“, sagt er uns. „Ich wusste schon früh, was ich machen wollte, und meine Eltern unterstützen mich dabei komplett.“ Im zarten Alter von 14 absolvierte er in den Ferien ein einmonatiges Praktikum bei Agnès b. Danach wurde ihm eine Stelle bei der jungen Designerin Corinne Cobson angeboten, bei der er an den Wochenenden für zwei Jahre arbeitete, bevor er seinen Schulabschluss machte und von 1990 bis 1992 Assistent bei Jean Paul Gaultier wurde. Eine Zeit, die er liebevoll als „im Herz eines Atomreaktors“ beschreibt.

„Es gab natürlich Fragen, aber sie haben niemals an mir gezweifelt. Sie haben mein Selbstbewusstsein gestärkt. Und ich hatte Glück, dass

Nicolas Ghesquière erzählt von seiner Arbeit für Louis Vuitton

ich die richtigen Leute bei Gaultier und später bei Balenciaga kennengelernt habe. Es gab ein paar Leute, die sich gut um mich gekümmert haben.“

Nach dem Weggang bei Gaultier entwarf Nicolas Strickwaren für das kleine Pariser Label Pôles, bevor er 1995 Produktdesigner bei Balenciaga wurde. Kaum zwei Jahre später wurde er mit nur 26 Jahren neuer Creative Director des Haues und Nachfolger von Josephus Thimister.

In den nächsten 15 Jahren stieg Balenciaga wie Phönix aus der Asche auf und wurde zu einem der einflussreichsten und inspirierendsten Modehäuser auf der Welt - eine Hit-produzierende Maschine. Seine Designs definierten ein ganzes Jahrzehnt: skinny Schulblazer, Cargo-Hosen, metallfarbene Leggings, Gladiator-Röcke und Sandalen erlangten schnell Kultstatus und wurden begierig von Redakteuren und Modefans auf der ganzen Welt aufgenommen. Ghesquière verließ im November 2012 Balenciaga und nach einem Jahr Auszeit wurde er im November 2013 zum Creative Director für die Damenkollektion von Louis Vuitton berufen. Es war ein bedeutsamer Anlass, der Nicolas‘ Position als einer der wichtigsten und einflussreichsten Modedesigner unserer Zeit unterstrich. „Wir hatten schon länger Kontakt“, sagt Nicolas über seine Beziehung mit dem französischen Luxuslabel. „Wir sprachen über Projekte, aber es war entweder nicht die richtige Zeitpunkt oder das richtige Projekt. Aber mit dem Erfolg von Jacobs‘ eigenem Label hat es dann gepasst.“ Und so sollten die Puzzleteile zusammenkommen. „Deswegen fühlt es sich gut an“, führt Nicolas weiter aus. „Das Timing ist für alle gut.“

Ein gutes Feeling ist wesentlich in Nicolas‘ Vision für das neue Louis Vuitton. Das war spürbar in dem Sonnenlicht-Walk im Louvre, in den frischen, architektonischen Linien seiner A-Linien-Röcke und -Jacken und in der persönlichen Note von Nicolas, die auf jedem Sitz auslag: „Heute ist ein neuer Tag. Ein großer Tag. Sie werden Zeuge meiner ersten Fashionshow für Louis Vuitton. Worte können nicht beschreiben, wie ich mich in diesem Moment fühle. Vor allem, unend-

Nicolas Ghesquière erzählt von seiner Arbeit für Louis Vuitton

„In der Modebranche musst du dich ständig selbst neu erfinden. Mittlerweile habe ich aber keine Angst mehr. Ich bin jetzt entspannter, ich habe Unterstützung und ich bin umgeben

liche Freude …“, schrieb er. Die Show und seitdem

Andere Designer hätten sich vor der Verpflich-

alle Ghesquière-Entwürfe für das Label - eine

tung für ein Luxuslabel vom Format Louis

herausragende Cruise-Kollektion in Monte Carlo

Vuitton vielleicht entmutigt gefühlt, aber nicht

und eine ikonische Werbekampagne mit von

so Nicolas. „Ich war nicht nervös, sondern ich

Juergen Teller, Bruce Weber und Annie Leibovitz

war ungeduldig“, gibt er zu. „Ich konnte es nicht

fotografierten Modegrößen - badeten geradezu

abwarten, meine Kollektion zu entwerfen, zu

in Glanz und Neuanfängen.

zeigen und die Reaktionen der Leute zu erfahren. Es scheint so, als ob alles, was ich bisher getan

Als wahrer Visionär ist es keine Überraschung,

habe, der Vorbereitung für Louis Vuitton diente.

dass andere Ghesquière folgen und man seinen

Meine Stimme ist jetzt lauter und erreicht mehr

Einfluss überall auf den weltweiten Laufstegen

Leute …“. Das muss ein tolles Gefühl sein? „Ja,

spürt. Man sagt ja, dass Nachahmung die höchs-

ich fühle mich gut“, sagt er lächelnd. „Und darauf

te Form der Anerkennung ist, aber das interes-

achten sie hier auch“.

siert den französischen Modedesigner nicht. „In der Modebranche musst du dich ständig selbst neu erfinden. Mittlerweile habe ich aber keine Angst mehr. Ich bin jetzt entspannter, ich habe Unterstützung und ich bin umgeben von Leuten, denen ich vertraue“, erklärt Nicolas. Vertrauen ist entscheidend, wenn du an der Spitze eines großen Hauses wie Vuitton stehst und nicht

Text Holly Shackleton Foto Glen Luchford Fashion Director

nur dort, wenn man an der Spitze jeder Orga-

Alastair McKimm Haare Duffy von Streeters für Vidal Sassoon

nisation, ob nun kreativ oder nicht, steht. Es ist

Make-up Sally Branka von LGA Management mit Produkten

genauso entscheidend, dass man ein Netz aus

von NARS Cosmetics Nägel Gina Viviano von ABTP Fotoassis-

Freunden und Kollaborateuren an seiner Seite

tenz Jack Webb, Lance Cheshire, Braulio Moz Digitaltechnik

hat. Nicolas nahm seinen Vertrauenskreis mit

Aron Norman Stylingassistenz Katelyn Gray Haarassistenz

von Balenciaga zu Vuitton, einschließlich seiner

Ryan Mitchell Make-up-Assistenz Daisy Whitney Casting Angus

besten Freundin, die Stylistin, Vertraute und

Munro für AM Casting (Streeters NY) Produktion Tali Magal

Muse Marie-Amélie Sauvé, mit der er seit fast 20

von Freebird Productions Model Sasha Piwowarowa at IMG.

Jahren zusammenarbeitet.

Sascha trägt Kleidung und Accessoires von Louis Vuitton.

I-D No. 327

von Leuten, denen ich vertraue.“

Julia Hafstrom in wind roses

I-D No. 327

by Txema Yeste

His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls.

Julia Hafstrom in wind roses

One morning, when Gregor Samsa woke from troubled dreams, he found himself transformed in his bed into a horrible vermin. He lay on his armour-like back, and if he lifted his head a little he could see his brown belly, slightly domed and divided by arches into stiff sections.

The bedding was hardly able to cover it and seemed ready to slide off any moment. His many legs, pitifully thin compared with the size of the rest of him, waved about helplessly as he looked. „What‘s happened to me? „ he thought. It wasn‘t a dream.

His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls. A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table - Samsa was a travelling salesman - and above it there hung a picture that he had recently cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame.

It showed a lady fitted out with a fur hat and fur boa who sat upright, raising a heavy fur muff that covered the whole of her lower arm towards the viewer. Gregor then turned to look out the window at the dull weather. Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad.

„How about if I sleep a little bit longer and forget all this nonsense“, he thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn‘t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was.

He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn‘t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

Doing business like this takes much more effort than doing your own business at home, and on top of that there‘s the curse of travelling, worries about making train connections, bad and irregular food, contact with different people all the time so that you can never get to know anyone or become friendly with them. It can all go to Hell!

„ He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn‘t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position. „Getting up early all the time“, he thought, „it makes you stupid.

Text Franz Kafka Photography Txema Yeste Styling Belén Casadevall Model Julia Hafstrom at IMG

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Julia Hafstrom in wind roses

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Julia Hafstrom in wind roses

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Julia Hafstrom in wind roses

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Julia Hafstrom in wind roses

Projected Heimat

Mit der Serie „Projected Heimat“ entdeckt Nachwuchs-Fotograf Martin Knorr den intimen Lebensraum eigene Wohnung auf innovative Weise und lässt die Grenze zwischen Realität und Abbildung verschmelzen. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARTIN KNORR

I-D No. 327

Projected Heimat

Die Grenze zw Realität und

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dung verschm

Heimat. Was ist das eigentlich? Was ist es für mich? Was ist es für dich?

Am Anfang des Seminars stehen viele Fragen, denen man sich Stück für Stück nährt. Durch Exploration und Recherche entstehen Ideen im Kopf, werden wieder verworfen, umgeformt und neu gedacht.

Was für mich relativ schnell klar wurde: DIE Heimat gibt es nicht. Heimat ist individuell und subjektiv. Das hat nicht zuletzt auch die Vielzahl der unterschiedlichsten Ideen der Kommilitonen bewiesen, denen man in persönlichen Gesprächen und in den Seminaren begegnet.

Wie ist aber dann ein zusammenhängendes fotografisches Projekt möglich? Zugleich verbindend als auch frei genug, um größtmöglichen Spielraum für Individualität zu lassen?

Das brachte mich schließlich auf die Idee, den persönlichen Lebensraum und Lebensmittelpunkt – die eigene Wohnung – als die jeweilige „Micro-Heimat“ zu definieren. Hier verbringt man die meiste Zeit und fühlt sich wohl. Dabei ist sie universell genug, um auch temporär „Heimat“ zu sein, selbst wenn die Heimatgefühle hunderte Kilometer entfernt liegen. Gewissermaßen das kleinste gemeinsam verbindende Element was Heimaten angeht.

Projected Heimat

ze zwischen

und Abbil-

schmilzt

I-D No. 327

Projected Heimat

Dass Heimat mehr als ein Ort oder ein Zustand sein kann, ergab sich auch sehr schnell in den Recherchen. Heimat ist vielmehr ein Gefühl. Auch das wollte ich in meinem Projekt zum Ausdruck bringen. Wenn man den eigenen Körper als „Heimat“ ansieht, stellt der Gefühlsrezeptor Haut mit seinen unzähligen Nervenzellen unsere sinnliche Verbindung zur Außenwelt dar.

Heimat ist vielmehr ein Gefühl Genau dort setze ich an, um die Wohnung als subjektive, individuelle Erfahrung und den Menschen dahinter zusammenzubringen und entschied mich für das Medium der Projektion. Ein Abbild der Wohnung – von der Person selbst fotografiert, um den Aspekt der eigenen Wahrnehmung herauszustellen – wird auf die nackte Haut projiziert und so eine intensive wie intime Verbindung hergestellt. Sie verstärkt den persönlichen Bezug und ermögliche ein tiefes Eintauchen in die individuelle Heimat.

Insgesamt entstanden Wohnungsportraits von neun Personen, alle sind Freunde oder Kommilitonen, die sich dankbarer Weise freiwillig bereit erklärten, zu partizipieren.

Die Ergebnisse sind zum Teil verblüffend und spielen mit der Wahrnehmung, die Grenze zwischen Realität und Abbildung verschmilzt schon während des Fotoshootings. Eine zarte, romantische und zum Teil melancholisch anmutende Stimmung zieht sich durch alle Aufnahmen. Die Personen werden Teil ihrer individuellen Micro-Heimat.

Text Martin Knorr Photography Martin Knorr Styling Models own underwear Models Iana, Kathreen, Kia, Madeleine, Pia

I-D No. 327

Projected Heimat

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Projected Heimat

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Projected Heimat

Welcome to Gypsiana

Welcome to Gyspiana

A sun-drenched road trip compelled by wanderlust and nostalgia, a journey to Byron Bay, via 1969â&#x20AC;Ś PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNIFER STENGLEIN

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Welcome to Gypsiana

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Welcome to Gypsiana

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Welcome to Gypsiana

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Welcome to Gypsiana

I-D No. 327

Welcome to Gypsiana

Spell sisters Elizabeth and Isabella called on acclaimed Aussie photographer Jen Stenglein and Danish muse Emma Stern Nielsen to bring Gypsiana to life on the outskirts of their beloved town, Byron Bay.

Watching the waves roll in from her kombi, using an old, crochet blanket to shelter from the sea breeze, Emma revisits an era gone by in embroidered denim and prints inspired by the humble â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;bandanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Classic Spell, creating and capturing moments steeped in vintage inspiration, come with us to Gypsiana.

Photography Jennifer Stenglein Photography Assistant Maggie Dylan Styling Isabella Pennefather & Elizabeth Briedis Model Emma Stern Nielsen Hair Luciana Rose Make-Up Gemma Elaine Set Design Holly Mccauley

I-D No. 327

Welcome to Gypsiana

Design Manual

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Design Manual

Grid

Base grid of 5 x 5 mm 5 columns with 5 mm spacing Allows for flexible layouts Print space 195 x 245 mm

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Design Manual

Typography

Headlines variant one FF Mark Bold + Light 48 / 60 Pt.

Headlines variant two Museo Slab 700 + 300 48 / 60 Pt.

Design Manual

Teaser texts below the headline FF Mark light 18 /42,52 Pt.

AUTHOR BYLINE

Museo Slab 700 8 /14,173 Pt.

Continuous text for all articles and interviews.

I-D No. 327

FF Mark Regular 9 /14 Pt.

Questions and accentuations

FF Mark Bold 9 / 14 Pt. Credits Box With job title and person in charge Surrounded by a small border Footnotes and Credits

FF Mark Bold 6 / 12 Pt.

Quotes FF Mark Bold 18 / 28 Pt.

Quote author byline

FF Mark Bold 10 / 28 Pt.

Design Manual

Covers & Colors

Covers retain the iconic wink, of course but get a graceful facelift using bold capital letters for the centered catchword and a subtle yet definite frame anchoring the issue.

This frame may be interrupted to create a strong

£6.00 $13.99

THE GIRLS + BOYS ISSUE

NO. 321 FALL 2012

I-DEAS, FASHION, MUSIC, PEOPLE

GENERATION Z

GRACEFUL THE ROLE MODEL ISSUE

KOLFINNA KRISTÓFERSDÓTTIR BY RICHARD BUSH

NO. 332 PRE-FALL 2014

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9 77 02 62 3 5 71 1 2

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spatial effect depending on the cover motive.

Design Manual

Every issue has a signal color, that is used subtly througout the magazine, and boldly on the cover,

NO. 327 FALL 2013

I-DEAS, FASHION, MUSIC, PEOPLE

TOGETHER THE CREATIVE COLLABORATORS ISSUE

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NATALIA VODIANOVA BY WILLY VANDERPERRE

9 7 7 0262 3 5 71 1 2

creating a coherent appearence

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General

Format of the magazine 230 x 300 mm

Images may run full bleed

xt may

o run

o and

er the

ed when

s repea-

d on the

posite or

xt page 84

Design Manual

Images may run

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over the middle

Text may overlap

Text m

the image within

also ru

the5 x 5 mm base grid

into an

over th

bleed w

it is rep ted on

opposi

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