India 2012-2013

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INDIA 2012–2013

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India 2012–2013

Illustrations. Above: engraved map of India 1795. Front cover: gouache painting probably from Murshidibad, Bengal, c. 1880/1920.

Contents Our policies and style

Temples of Tamil Nadu

pages 4, 5, 32

14–26 January 2013, with Professor Adam Hardy

Rajput & Mughal Rajasthan 2–17 December 2012 with Dr Giles Tillotson

The British Raj

6

5–17 January 2013, with David Gilmour and Professor Gavin Stamp

Kingdoms of the Deccan 1–14 February 2013, with John M. Fritz

9

22 February–8 March 2013, Dr Giles Tillotson

12

Martin Randall Travel, complete tours 2012

The Indian Mutiny 23 Oct.–5 Nov. 2012, with Patrick Mercer mp

Booking Procedure

15

Booking Form

Bengal by River 10–23 February 2013, Dr Rosie Llewellyn-Jones M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

24

Essential India

Ashoka & Buddhist India 1–14 March 2013, with Charles Allen

21

Booking Conditions

18 2

26 30–32 32 33–34 35

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M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L A R T R " 3 $ ) * 5 & $ 5 6 3 & R ( " 4 5 3 0 / 0 . : R " 3 $ ) " & 0 - 0 ( : R ) * 4 5 0 3 : R . 6 4 * $ R 5 - * 5 & 3 "5 6 3 &

Voysey House, Barley Mow Passage, London, United Kingdom W4 4GF T 020 8742 3355 F 020 8742 7766 info@martinrandall.co.uk www.martinrandall.com

Dear traveller to India (armchair or otherwise). It’s twenty years since we last sent a tour to India. So why are we now, with apparent suddenness, launching a brochure with eight different Indian tours in a single season? In the mid-1990s we withdrew from all long-haul destinations, of which we had anyway previously offered only a few. We have always been of the opinion that it is not possible for a tour organiser to provide a firstclass experience for its clients unless it has in-depth knowledge of the countries to which it is sending them. It became evident that it was not economically viable to acquire the requisite familiarity with far-away places when we only had one tour a year, or fewer. What has changed? Mainly, we have invested heavily to acquire some of that familiarity and knowledge. We first started researching India in earnest in 2004, postponed the project for a while and then picked it up again in 2010. By the time our first client steps onto the jetty at Delhi Airport in October 2012 there will have been two members of staff working almost full-time on Indian tours for nearly two years, with quite a lot of that time being spent in India. Several others are also engaged in one way or another. It would be to overstate the case to say that we have found a gap in the market, but specialist, ‘cultural’ tours to India of the sort we have been providing for nearly a quarter of a century in Europe and the Middle East are surprisingly rare. It would also be something of an exaggeration to state that with our innovations we are revolutionising tourism to India. But in a number of ways, some small and some not so small, we will be doing things a little differently, in defiance of well-entrenched conventions prevalent since the beginnings of organised tourism to the country. I am extremely pleased that our India team has come up with such an outstanding range of tours for our opening season, and I can scarcely believe that we kick off with such an excellent array of lecturers. They include some of the world’s leading experts in aspects of the history and culture of India. I’ll skip the usual travel-brochure encomium. It is beyond my powers to begin to convey the intensity of experience which India offers, and you probably know that India should be visited. I suggest you experience it for yourself, in the best possible way. Read on. Yours sincerely,

Martin Randall Chief Executive 31st January 2012

5085

Directors: Martin Randall (Chief Executive), Sir Vernon Ellis (Chairman), Chris Denton, Ian Hutchinson, Neil Taylor, Fiona Urquhart Registered office: Voysey House, Barley Mow Passage, London W4 4GF. Registered Company no. 2314294 England. VAT no. 527758803

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Te l e p h o n e 0 2 0 8 7 4 2 3 3 5 5


Martin Randall Travel in India: our policies and style Our aim: the finest cultural tours to India

absorb, contemplate and recuperate.

Our aim is to create the most fulfilling, enjoyable and memorable tours to India currently available – the best planned, the best led, the most informative and illuminating.

There are fewer early starts and fewer coach movements than on many other tours to India, and few one-night stays.

Learn from leading experts

Founded in 1988, Martin Randall Travel (MRT) has become the leader in cultural tours by incessant innovation and by setting the benchmarks for itinerary planning and service standards. It has become one of the most respected specialist travel companies in the world.

All the tours are accompanied by leading experts in their field – academics, writers, curators, broadcasters and researchers. They are selected not only for their knowledge but also for their ability to communicate their learning in ways that are engaging and stimulating. And they also have to be good travelling companions.

With tours to most countries in Europe and the Middle East, MRT is building on this unsurpassed accumulation of specialist tour-operating skills to provide a range of exceptional tours to India.

Travelling in comfort The hotels we have chosen are as good as, and many are better than, those we use for small-group tours in Europe and the Middle East. Often they are the most comfortable in the vicinity.

Do less, see more The India tours have a full programme of visits, but we have been careful not to cram too much into the day. We want to avoid the exhaustion which frequently mars travels to the country. They may include fewer places, but they spend longer in those places which are visited, allowing time to

Similarly we use the best and most modern coaches. We travel on the highest class available on train routes, and intercontinental flights are usually day-time services.

Below: Bijapur, Muhammed Shah’s tomb, engraving after Samuel Prout 1845.

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to places not generally open to individual travellers, or for access at times when they are closed to the public. Even in the most visited destinations there is often much that is fascinating and beautiful which few travellers get to see. Less visited and more out-of-the-way places are a significant feature of many tours, sometimes instead of sights which are better known but overrun with tourists.

Innovative itineraries, meticulously planned MRT is widely known for the superb quality of its itineraries – original, imaginative, meticulous and considerate. To a quarter of a century’s experience of planning tours we have added knowledge of India by recruiting staff who are steeped in its history and culture and are thoroughly familiar with present-day realities.

In innumerable small ways, we lift the experience for our clients above standards and services which are regarded as normal for tourists.

The result is what we believe to be among the most fascinating range of tours to India currently available.

Tours with a focus

Value for money, and no surcharges

Most of the tours are designed around a theme or a bundle of themes. Having a focus does not preclude learning about other aspects of India. On all our tours elements are included which do not relate directly to the primary subject matter, and plenty of information will be provided about broader aspects of Indian history and culture, past and present.

The price includes nearly everything, not only the major ingredients such as flights, hotels, transportation and the costs of the lecturer and tour manager but also many lesser charges such as tips, drinks with meals, airport taxes and credit card charges. We do not levy surcharges for fuel price increases, exchange rate changes, additional taxes or for any other reason. The price published in this brochure is the price you pay.

Seeing what few others see All the tours incorporate special arrangements for admission

More about the tours and our policies Visas British citizens and most other foreign nationals require a tourist visa. The current cost for UK nationals is around £45 including service fees. This is not included in the price of the tour because you have to obtain it yourself. We will advise on the procedure but you will need to submit your passport to the India Visa Application Centre in your country of residence prior to departure. Processing times vary from country to country but UK residents should expect to be without their passport for up to 10 days.

Fitness requirements

at a more leisurely pace for an hour or two unaided. Uneven ground and irregular paving are standard. On many tours there are fairly steep ascents to hilltop forts and temples. Usually there are some long coach journeys during which facilities are limited and may be of poor quality. Most sites have some shade but the Indian sun is strong, even in the cooler seasons. Age limit. We very much regret that bookings will not be accepted from those who would be 81 or over at the time of the tour.

Leaders and escorts

A good level of fitness is essential. Unless you enjoy entirely unimpaired mobility, cope with everyday walking and stair-climbing without difficulty and are reliably sure-footed, these tours are not for you.

Every tour is accompanied by an expert speaker, as described above. Nearly all the tours are also accompanied by a trained tour manager, a member of our office staff or one of a number of freelance professionals who work for us regularly.

A rough indication of the minimum level of fitness required is that you ought to be able to walk briskly at about three miles per hour for at least half an hour, and undertake a walk

Local guides also accompany the tours. Some will have been given training to prepare them for the special nature of our tours and the requirements of our clients. Their role is

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subsidiary to that of the lecturer, however, who speaks on-site as well as giving evening talks in the hotels.

Health & hygiene, food & drink Participants will be sent information about inoculations and other precautionary measures. A course of malaria tablets is advisable for some of the tours. Bottled water is provided at the hotels, in the coaches and at restaurants. Some special dietary requirements might be difficult to cope with, though vegetarianism is well catered for.

Air, road and rail Upgrades. The package prices are based on economy fares but we can quote for other classes on international flights upon request. Most internal flights are one-class only.

Continued on page 32… Te l e p h o n e 0 2 0 8 7 4 2 3 3 5 5


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2–17 December 2012 (MZ 442) gl5 3-5R5tk6khf5 Lecturer: Dr Giles Tillotson Architecture, art and history amid the enthralling landscapes and beautiful cities, forts and palaces of north-west India. The Hindu Rajput clans of northern and central India claim family trees going back to the sixth century. The Muslim Mughal empire lasted from 1527 to 1857, at its peak encompassing most of the Subcontinent. The tour includes less visited places as well as major ones, spends more time at each place and includes a number of special arrangements.

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Hotels. &"#5Bi5(#!".-C95 .#(!5.)5." 5 ,&35goff-65#.5, . #(-5 )&)(# &5 " ,'5 ( 5 #-5# &&35-#./ . 5#(5." 5" ,.5) 5 /.3 (-]-5 &"#85 .., .#0 5! , (5 ( 5-1#''#(!5 *))&85 #*/,5Bj5(#!".-C95 (5gn."7 (.85* & 5 #(5 ( )7 -& '# 5-.3& 65#.-5 ),' ,5!, ( /,5 )' #(#(!51#."5 )(. '*), ,35.)/ " -85 2. (-#0 5!,)/( -5 ( 5 5*))&85 /( #5Bh5 (#!".-C95 51"#. 5 & --# &5* & 65./,( 5 #(.)5." 5')-.5 )' ),. & 5"). &5#(5.)1(85 "#..),! ,"5Bh5(#!".-C95 5gl."7 (.85 $*/.5 ),.65 )(0 ,. 5#(.)5 5-#'*& 653 .5 " ,'#(!55 "). &85 ) "*/,5Bi5(#!".-C95 5 )/.#+/ 5"). &5 &) . 5#(5." 5" ,.5) 5." 51 && 5 #.35 ( ."5 ." 5 ),.65-/ -- /&&35 )' #(#(!5') ,(5 ( 5 ., #.#)( &5 -#!(85 1#''#(!5*))&85 /,! )(5 Bg5(#!".C5 )' ),. & 5 ( 5 /( .#)( &5j7-. ,5 &)- 5.)5." 5 #,*),.85 Lecturer: Dr Giles Tillotson #-5 5 &&)15B ( 5 ),' ,5 #, .),C5) 5." 5 )3 &5 -# .# 5 ) # .385 5" -5 (5 ,5#(5 #-.),35) 5 ,.5 ( 5 " #,5 ) 5 ,.5 ( 5 , " )&)!35 .5 65 (#0 ,-#.35) 5

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Kingdoms of the Deccan Art and architecture sixth to eighteenth centuries 1–14 February 2013 (MZ 470) gj5 3-55R55tj6ojf55

./, ,95 )"(5 85 ,#.4 Islamic architecture in the four cities of the Bahmani sultanate founded in the 14th and 15th centuries (Gulbarga, Bidar, Bijapur, Golconda). Hindu architecture of the Chalukyas from the 6th to the 12th centuries (Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal). The Islamic state of Hyderabad was one of India’s largest princedoms and retains a rich artistic heritage. Hampi was capital of the leading Hindu power from the 14th to 16th centuries, is a most beautiful and fascinating centre. The Deccan plateau has distinctive, dramatic, rocky landscapes.

M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

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Kingdoms of the Deccan

." 5 & 5) 5 )&)/,-65-)5 && 5 /- 5) 5 ." 51 &&5.#& -5 ( 5')." ,7) 7* ,&5#(& 3-85 )&&)1#(!5 50#-#.5.)5." 5 )3 &5 )' -5 .5 -"./,65 )(.#(/ 5.)5 /& ,! 85 0 ,(#!".5 /& ,! 8 Day 6: Gulbarga, Bijapur. The small town ) 5 /& ,! 5#-5) 5' $),5"#-.),# &5#'*),. ( 85 Äť 5Ĺ€,-.5 "' (#5 *#. &5#(5." 5 (65#.5 1 -5 )/( 5#(5gijm5 ), 5 #(!5 ( )( 5 #(5gjhj5#(5 0)/,5) 5 # ,85Äť 5 '#5 -$# 5 B ,# 35 )-+/ C65-#'#& ,5.)5." 5 ), ) 5 4+/#. 5#(5 ),'5 ( 5 #' (-#)(-65#-5/(#+/ 5 #(5-)/."5 ( # 5 -5#.5#-5 /&&35 )0 , 5 ( 5" -5 ()5'#( , .-:5)( 5." ),35 & #'-5#.51 -5 /#&.5 -5 5* & 85 5Ĺ€0 7")/,5 ,#0 5.)5 #$ */,65 ,,#0#(!5#(5.#' 5.)50#-#.5." 5 )&5 /' 465 5')(/' (. &5 )' 5.)' 65 ), 5-/(- .85 0 ,(#!".5 #$ */,8 Day 7: Bijapur, Badami. (5." 5'),(#(!5 ." , 5#-5 51 &%5.",)/!"5." 5)& 5.)1(5.)5 - 5." 5' (35"#-.),# 5 /#& #(!-85Äť 51 &%5 )(.#(/ -5 ,)/( 5." 5 #.351 &&-5 ( 5! . -85 Äť 5 , "#'5 /4 5.)' 5 )'*& 25 )(-#-.-5) 5 .1)5#(.,# . &35 ,0 5.1#(5 /#& #(!-5Ĺ€(#-" 5 #(5glhl65." 5.)' 5) 5 , "#'5 #&5 " "5 5 ( 5." 5')-+/ 85 (5." 5 . ,())(51 5& 0 5 ." 5 -& '# 5, !#)(5 ( 5 ,#0 5 ),5 )/,5")/,-5 .)5." 5 (., 5) 5." 5 ),' ,5 #( /5 " &/%3 5 %#(! )'85 #,-.5) 5.", 5(#!".-5#(5 '#8

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Day 11: Hospet, Hampi. Äť 5,/#(-5) 5." 5 #$ 3 ( ! , 5 *#. &65giil@gklk65&# 5#(5 5 , ' ,% & 5& ( - * 5-., 1(51#."5!, (#. 5 )/& ,-5 ( 5-*, 5 &)(!5." 5 /(!" " , 5 ,#0 ,85Äť 5 2. (-#0 5-#. 5#-5),! (#- 5 ,)/( 5 .1)5' #(5 , -65." 5 , 5 (., 51#."5#.-5 )( (., .#)(5) 5. '*& -5 ( 5-",#( -65 ( 5 ." 5 )3 &5 (., 85Äť 5 , 5 (., 5#-5 &)- 5 .)5." 5,#0 ,5 ( 5#( &/ -5." 5 #,/* %-" 5 '*& 5#(5." 5'# & 5) 5." 50#&& ! 5 ( 5 ' %/. 5 #&&51#."5#.-5(/' ,)/-5-",#( -5 ( 5 )'' ( #(!50# 1-5) 5." 5 , 85 0 ,(#!".5 )-* .8 Day 12: Hampi. )&&)1#(!5 50#-#.5.)5." 5 #.." & 5. '*& 65.) 3]-50#-#.-5 ) /-5)(5." 5 )3 &5 (., 5 ( 5#.-5- /& ,5 /#& #(!-85 )-.5-.,#%#(!5#-5." 5 )./-5 " &5#(5." 5 ( ( 5 ( &)-/, 51#."5#.-5 /-* 5 , " -5 ( 5*3, '# &5.)1 ,-65 5-/* , 5 2 '*& 5) 5 ." 5-3( , .# 5 , "#. ./, 5) 5 #$ 3 ( ! , 85 0 ,(#!".5 )-* .8 Day 13: Hospet, Lakkundi, Hubli. The '),(#(!5#-5 , 65.")/!"5." , 5#-5." 5)*.#)(5) 5 (5 2 /,-#)(5.)5 ()." ,5, ' ,% & 5. '*& 85 (5." 5 . ,())(650#-#.5." 5 ),!).. (5. '*& -5 #(5 %%/( #85 )(.#(/ 5.)5 / &#5 #,*),.5 ( 5 Ĺ‚35.)5 (! &/,/5 B (! &), C85 0 ,(#!".5 (! &/,/85

i5* % 5&/( " -C5 ( 5gh5 #(( ,-51#."51#( 65 1 . ,5 ( 5 )Äż :5 &&5 '#--#)(-5.)5'/- /'-5 ( 5-#. -:5 &&5.#*-5 ),5 ,#0 ,-65, -. /, (.5-. Äż65 ( 5&) &5!/# -:5 #,*),.5. 2 -:5." 5- ,0# 5) 5 a lecturer. Single supplement ÂŁ520. Price without international flights: ÂŁ3,930. Hotels.5 )' 5) 5." 5"). &-5)(5."#-5.)/,5 , 5 & --5." (5&/2/,#)/-65 /.5." 35 , 5 +/ . &35 & (5 ( 5 )' ),. & 5 ( 5 &&5." 5,))'-5" 0 5 en suite5 .",))'-85 3 , 5Bi5(#!".-C95 !, ( 5 ( 5 )' ),. & 5k7-. ,5"). &65') ,(5 # 5 5&#..& 5 . 85 /& ,! 5Bg5(#!".C95 5 #,&35 -#'*& 5"). &5.")/!"5." 5 -.5#(5.)1(:5 & (5 ( 5().5/( )' ),. & 65,))'-5 , 5-* #)/-5 ( 5" 0 5 (5-/#. 5 #&#.# -85 #$ */,5Bg5(#!".C95 -# 5 /.5 ,# ( &35"). &65-#'#& ,5.)5 /& ,! 85 '#5Bi5(#!".-C95*& - (.5"). &51#."5 1#&&#(!5- ,0# 5 ,)/( 5 5! , (51#."5 5-' &&5 *))&85 )-* .5Bi5(#!".-C95." 5( 1 -.5 ( 5 -.5 #(5.)1(65 5 )' ),. & 5j7-. ,5"). &51#."5 5 -1#''#(!5*))&855 Lecturer: John M. Fritz studied (.",)*)&)!35 .5." 5 (#0 ,-#.35) 5 "# !)5 ( 5#-5 /,, (.&35 --) # . 5 ,) --),5 ) 5 , " )&)!35 .5." 5 (#0 ,-#.35) 5 ((-3&0 (# 65 "#& &*"# 85 #( 5gong65

1#."5 ),! 5 # " &&65 " 5" -5 )7 #, . 5 (5 international team ) 5, - , " ,-5 .5 #$ 3 ( ! , I '*#85 "#& 5 ,,3#(!5)/.5 #(. (-#0 5 ) /' (. .#)(5 ) 5-/, 5, ' #(-65 " 5" -51,#.. (5)(5." 5 #.3]-5-* .# &5& 3)/.5 ( 5 /&./, &5' (#(!85 ')(!5"#-5$)#(.5 publications are Where Gods and Kings Meet65 the Royal Centre at Vijayanagara5B (#0 ,-#.35 ) 5 ,#4)( 5 , --5gonjC65City of Victory5B 15 ),%5googC65Hampi, the illustrated guidebook B )' 35hffiC65New Light on Hampi B )' 35hffjC5 ( 5Hampi, a Story in Stone B '#( ( 5 /' #5hffoC85 How strenuous? 5!)) 5& 0 &5) 5Ĺ€.( --5#-5 -- (.# &85 & - 5- 5* ! 5k85 0 , ! 5 #-. ( 5 35 ) "5* ,5 395kl5'#& -8 Small group:5." 5.)/,51#&&5)* , . 51#."5 .1 (5gf5 ( 5hh5* ,.# #* (.-8 ĹœĹœĹ›Ĺ&#x;Ĺ•Ĺ Ĺ‘95 ĹĽĹ?Ĺ‘ĹžĹ?ĹŽĹ?Ĺ?65ŠŔő5 Ĺ”Ĺ?Ĺž5 Ĺ•ĹšĹ?Ĺž65 Ĺ&#x;Ĺ Ĺ‘Ĺ‘Ĺ˜5őŚœŞĹ?ŢŕŚœ5Ĺ?85Č˜Č&#x;ČœČ—85 Ĺ‘Ĺ˜Ĺ›ĹŁ95 Ĺ?Ĺ™ĹœĹ•65 ĹĄĹ Ĺ?Ĺ”5ţśśĹ?5őŚœŞĹ?ŢŕŚœ5Č˜Č&#x;ČžČ˜8

Day 14: Bengaluru. Äť 5 #, .5Ĺ‚#!".5 ,)'5 (! &/,/5 .)5 .",)15#-5 - " /& 5 ),5 85fm8ff5 .)5 8gi8if8

Practicalities Price: ÂŁ4,940 B *)-#.5tjffC85Äť#-5 #( &/ -95 #,5., 0 &5 B )()'35 & --C5)(5 Ĺ‚#!".-51#."5 ,#.#-"5 #,1 3-95 )( )(5.)5 3 , 5B ) #(!5 mmmC5 ( 5 (! &/,/5 .)5 )( )(5B ) #(!5 mmmC651#."5 #(!Ĺ€-" ,5 / &#5.)5 (! &/,/5 B jhI mhC:5 ., 0 &5 35*,#0 . 5 #,7 )( #.#)( 5 ) ":5 accommodation as - ,# 5 &)165 , % -.-65gh5 &/( " -5B#( &/ #(!5 M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

11

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Ashoka & Buddhist India Art and Architecture of the Mauryan Empire 1–14 March 2013 (MZ 485) gj5 3-5R5tj6ohf

./, ,95 " ,& -5 && ( In the third century bc Ashoka united much of India, and established Buddhism as the imperial religion. This tour visits India’s major Buddhist sites (Sarnath, Bodhgaya, Vaishali, Sanchi) and sees much of the finest Buddhist and Hindu sculpture (at museums in Delhi, Sarnath, Patna and Calcutta). Studies the life of the historical Buddha, the spread of the new religion and its doctrine. Includes places rarely visited: Bihar, heartland of Indian civilization but now India’s least developed state, the lovely old city of Bhopal and incomparable Calcutta. ĝ 5 , .5 -")% 65 & , . 5,/& ,5) 5." 5 /,3 (5 3( -.365#-5- # 5.)5" 0 5 )(0 ,. 5

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) 5 ,# %7 /#&.5. '*& -5 ( 5')( -. ,# -5 .5." 5 1),& ]-5)& -.5/(#0 ,-#.35 .5 & ( 65' #(&35 ) 5." 5k."7gh."5 (.-85 ( 5(#!".5#-5-* (.5#(5 .( 8 Day 8: Vaishali, Patna. Remote and /.# /&65 #-" &#51 -5)( 5 5!, .5 #.35 ( 5 -#. 5) 5#'*),. (.5 *#-) -5#(5." 5 / " ]-5 &# 85Äť 5 -")% (5 #&& ,65 (5gn7' ., 5 *)&#-" 5- ( -.)( 5')()&#."5.)** 5 35 5' !(#Ĺ€ (.&35 ,0 5&#)(65,#- -5 )0 5 5 ,# %5-./* 85Äť 5'/- /'5#(5 .( 5" -5." 5 # ,! ($5 %-"#65 51)( , /&5i, 7 (.85ĹŽĹ? ' & 5- /&*./, 85Äť 5 )&!" ,65 5hm7' ., 5 "#!"5)0)# 5!, ( ,35 /#&.5#(5gmnj65#-51#.")/.5 * , && &5#(5 ,#.#-"5),5 ( # (5 , "#. ./, 85 &35 ,)'5 .( 5.)5 )&% . 51" , 5.1)5(#!".-5 , 5 spent. Day 9: Kolkata (Calcutta).5Äť 5 ( # (5 /- /'65 )/( 5#(5gngj65" -5)( 5) 5." 5 #!! -.5 )&& .#)(-5) 5 (.#+/#.# -5#(5 -# 85Äť 5 " ,"/.5- /&*./, -65 & ), . &35),( ' (. 5 -.)( 5, #&#(!-5) 5." 5h( 5 (.85ĹŽĹ?65 , 5 ')(!5 ." 5Ĺ€,-.5 ( 5Ĺ€( -.5) 5 ,&35 ( # (5- /&*./, -65 ( 5." , 5 , 5' (35)." ,5)/.-. ( #(!5 / "#-.5 ( 5 ,&35 #( /5- /&*./, -5 ( 5 ,)(4 -85Äť 5 -.)/( #(!&35& 0#-"5 # .),# 5 '),# &5Bgofl@hgC5, *, - (.-5." 5 *)! 5) 5 ." 5 ,#.#-"5 $:5." 5 )."# 5 0#0 &5 ." , &5 ) 5 .5 /&5" -5 5Ĺ€( 5 /,( 7 )( -51#( )185 0 ,(#!".5 )&% . 8 Day 10: Kolkata.5 &%5 ,)/( 5." 5" ,.5) 5 ." 5 #.351"# "51 -5& ,! &35 /#&.5 35." 5 ,#.#-"85 )0 ,(' (.5 ( 5 '#(#-., .#0 5 /#& #(!-5 , 5 ) 5 5- & 5 ( 5!, ( /,5." 5 +/ &5) 5 (35 #.35 #(5 ,#. #(65' #(&35#(51 -. ,(5 & --# &5-.3& -5 1#."5 *. .#)(-5.)5." 5 (! & - 5 &#' . 85 .5." 5 ,%5 ., .5 ' . ,35&# 5 /,# 5/( ,5 ' !(#Ĺ€ (.5' /-)& 5"/( , -5) 5 ,#.)(-5 1")5 # 5 ), 5gnif65 (5 , "#. ./, &5 ),(/ )*# 85 &35#(5." 5 . ,())(5.)5 ")* &5 ),5 ." 5Ĺ€,-.5) 5.", 5(#!".-8 Day 11: Bhopal.5 (5 -37!)#(!5 3651#."5 .#' 5 ),5, & 2#(!5#(5." 5&)0 &35"). &65 5 ),' ,5 * & 51#."5! , (-650 , ( -5 ( 5 5hk7' ., 5 -1#''#(!5*))&85 #&&5gojm5)( 5) 5." 5' $),5 *,#( )'-5#(5 ( # 65 ")* &5, ' #(-5 (5 .., .#0 5&#..& 5 #.365 5- +/ ( 5) 5 0) .#0 &35 #& *# . 5* & -5 ( 5)." ,5"#-.),# 5 /#& #(!-5 /#&.5 ,)/( 5.1)5& ,! 5& % -85 (5 ." 5'),(#(!65 ,#0 5.)5 (! ,/,# 5.)5-./ 35 ." 5,) %5 # .85 , 5.#' 5#(5." 5 . ,())(85 0 ,(#!".5 ")* &8 Day 12: Sanchi, Bhopal. Remotely located #(5)* (65"#&&35 ( 5-* ,- &35*)*/& . 5 )/(.,3-# 65 ( "#5#-5)( 5) 5." 5., -/, -5) 5 ( # 5 ( 5 5ťŚőĹ&#x;Ĺ?Ĺ›5" ,#. ! 5-#. 85 (5.)*5) 5 5 M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

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Practicalities Price: ÂŁ4,920 ( *)-#.5tjffC85Äť#-5#( &/ -95 #,5., 0 &5B )()'35 & --C5)(5Ĺ‚#!".-51#."5 ,#.#-"5 #,1 3-95 )( )(5.)5 &"#5B ) #(!5 mjm@jffC5 ( 5 &"#5.)5 )( )(5B ) #(!5mmmC65 1#."5 .5 #,1 3-5 &"#5.)5 , ( -#5B ) #(!5 mim@nffC5 ( 5 )&% . 5.)5 ")* &5B mhC65 1#."5 ( # )5 .( 5.)5 )&% . 5B #, /-5ihfC65 ( 51#."5 #,5 ( # 5 ")* &5.)5 &"#5B #, /-5 igoC:5., 0 &5 35*,#0 . 5 #,7 )( #.#)( 5 ) "5 ( 5., #(5B)( 5$)/,( 35#(5." 5 -.5 & --5 0 #& & C:5 )'') .#)(5 -5 - ,# 5 &)165 , % -.-65o5&/( " -5B#( &/ #(!5h5 * % 5&/( " -C5 ( 5o5 #(( ,-51#."51#( 65 1 . ,5 ( 5 )Äż :5 &&5 '#--#)(-5.)5'/- /'-5 ( 5-#. -:5 &&5.#*-5 ),5 ,#0 ,-65, -. /, (.5-. Äż65 ( 5&) &5!/# -65 #,*),.5. 2 -65." 5- ,0# 5) 5 a lecturer. Single supplement ÂŁ680. Price without international flights: ÂŁ4,340. Hotels.5 &"#5BĹ€,-.5.1)5(#!".-5 ( 5." 5 & -.C95 .#(!5.)5." 5 ,&35goff-65#.5, . #(-5 )&)(# &5 " ,'5 ( 5#-5# &&35-#./ . 5#(5 ." 5" ,.5) 5." 5 #.385 .., .#0 5! , (5 ( 5 -1#''#(!5*))&85 , ( -#5Bi5(#!".-C95 5& ,! 65 /( .#)( &53 .5 )' ),. & 5j7-. ,5"). &5 1#."5 )(. '*), ,35 .)/ " -5.)5." 5 , (.&35, ()0 . 5 ,))'-85 .5#-5 )(0 (# (.&35&) . 5 &)- 5.)5." 5 (., 65 /.5, ')0 5 ,)'5 ." 5 /-.& 5#(5#.-5 jf7 , -5) 5*,#0 . 5 ! , (651#."5 5*))&85 ) "! 3 5Bg5(#!".C95 .")/!"5 +/ . &35 )' ),. & 5 B." 5-")1 ,-5 , 5 gj

)'' ( & C5."#-5#-5." 5-#'*& -.5) 5." 5 "). &-5)(5." 5.)/,85 .5#-5 5-* #)/-5') ,(5 /#& #(!51#."5!, (5' , & 5ł)),-85 .( 5 Bg5(#!".C95 5 #,&35') ,(5"). &5#(5." 5 (., 5) 5." 5 #.365, . 5 -5k7-. ,5 ( 5." 5 ')-.5 )' ),. & 5#(5." 5, !#)(65-)' 1" .5 *, . (.#)/-5 /.5-. ( , -5 ( 5- ,0# 5 , 5 *. & 85 )&% . 5Bi5(#!".-C95 5&)(!7 -. &#-" 5&/2/,35"). &5 )(0 (# (.&35&) . 5 #(5." 5 #.35 (., 85 (5) -#-5) 5 )&)(# &5 " ,'65 ŀ( 5 35#'* & 5- ,0# 85ĝ , 5#-5 5*))&5 #(5 (., &5 )/,.3 , 65-/,,)/( 5 35"#!"5 * &'-85 ")* &5Bi5(#!".-C95 5 ),' ,5* & 5)(5 ." 5 ! 5) 5." 5 #.351#."5! , (-650 , ( -5 ( 5 5-1#''#(!5*))&85 ,))'-50 ,35 /.5 &&5 , 5 )' ),. & 5 ( 51 &&5 +/#** 8 Lecturer: Charles Allen5#-5 5 ,#.#-"51,#. ,5 ( 5"#-.),# (85 51 -5 ),(5#(5 ( # 651" , 5 - 0 , &5! ( , .#)(-5) 5"#-5 '#&35- ,0 5/( ,5." 5 ,#.#-"5 $85 #-51),%5 ) /- -5)(5 ( # 5 ( 5 )/."5 -# 5#(5! ( , &85 ')(!5"#-5' (35 ))%-5 are Plain Tales from the Raj: Images of British India in the Twentieth Century5BgomkC65Lives of the Indian Princes BgonjC65The Search for Shangri-La: a Journey into Tibetan History5BgoooC65Soldier Sahibs: the Men who Made the North-West Frontier BhfffC65The Buddha and the Sahibs: the Men who Discovered India’s Lost Religion5BhffhC65 God’s Terrorists: the Wahhabi Cult and the Hidden Roots of Modern Jihad5BhfflC65Kipling Sahib: India and the Making of Rudyard Kipling BhffmC5 ( 5Ashoka: The Search for India’s Lost Emperor5B ,/ ,35hfghC85 How strenuous? 5!)) 5& 0 &5) 5ŀ.( --5#-5 -- (.# &85 5* ! 5k85 0 , ! 5 #-. ( 5 35 ) "5* ,5 395jh5'#& -855 Small group:5." 5.)/,51#&&5)* , . 51#."5 .1 (5gf5 ( 5hh5* ,.# #* (.-8

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The Indian Mutiny Delhi, Meerut, Lucknow, Gwalior, Agra 23 October–5 November 2012 (MZ 407) , *),. 5 0 ,35')0 5) 5, &-5 ( 5&)3 &5.,))*-5 &#% 85ĝ 5"),,),5) 5 " & ,]-5 (., ( "' (.5 gj5 3-5R5tj6jkf .5 1(*), 65." 5 )!! 5 ( 5) 5." 5

./, ,95 .,# %5 , ,5Ĺ™Ĺœ A study of the single most important and controversial set of events in the history of the British in India, a turning point for the Subcontinent and also for Victorian Britain. A tour of intense interest for military, imperial and Indian history. The places visited make for an excellent overview of Indian landscapes, culture and architecture.

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Special arrangements for exclusive access. Äť 5 #,-.5 ,5) 5 ( # (5 ( * ( ( 5),5 (5 #&&7*& (( 5 ( 5#&& !#.#' . 5, &&#)(>5Äť 5 ."7.",) -5) 5 5., #.#)( &5-) # .35-&#**#(!5 ( ."5." 51 0 -5) 5*,)!, --5),5 (5"#-.),# 5 0 ( 5.)1 , -5." 5 ' ( #* .#)(5) 5* )*& -5 )**, -- 5 35 )&)(# &#-'>5Äť 5 ( # (5 /.#(365 .)5/- 5." 5( ' 5!#0 (5 35." 5 ,#.#-"5/*)(5#.-5 )/. , %5#(5gnkm65" -5 (5-/ $ .5.)5' (35 interpretations. This tour aims to present a & ,7-#!". 5/( ,-. ( #(!5) 5." 5 0 (.-5 ( 5 ." #,5' (#(!65 ( 5 5')0#(!5-./ 35) 5 )(Ĺ‚# .5 and reconciliation. (5gnkm5." 5 (! &5 ,'365)( 5) 5." 5 )()/, & 5 -.5 ( # 5 )'* (3]-5&) &&35 , #- 5 ,'# -65./,( 5)(5#.-5 ,#.#-"5)Ĺƒ ,-65 '/, , 5." '5 ( 5." #,5 '#&# -5),5 ,)0 5 ." '5 1 365 ( 5 .. '*. 5.)5 -. &#-"5 ." #,5)1(5 /."),#.35#(5 &"#85 1&35#--/ 5 ,.,# ! -5!, - 51#."5*#!5 ( 5 )15 .65."/-5 &# ( .#(!5 )."5 /-&#'-5 ( 5 #( /-65.")/!"5 , *# &351#." , 1(65' 35" 0 5*, #*#. . 5." 5 /.#(3:5." .5#.5-*, 5-)5, *# &35 ( 5 ($)3 5 1# -*, 5-/**),.5, 0 &-5 *5/( ,&3#(!5 #- )(. (.85 " && (! 5 351 -. ,(#- .#)(65 ( # (5-) # .365, , &35 .5* 51#."5#.- & 5 (31 3651 -5 )'#(!5 #-),# (. . 5 ( 5 #- ( " (. 85 Äť , 5 )&&)1 5." 5')-.5- ,#)/-5 " && (! 5 .)5 / (5 # .),# ]-5 /."),#.35) 5" ,5 (.#, 5 , #!(85Äť 5, &&#)(5-/ % 5#(5.")/- ( -5) 5 &)3 &5( .#0 5.,))*-5 -51 &&5 -5 ,#.#-"5, !#' (.-5 @5-)' 5) 5." '5 , -"5 ,)'5." 5 ,#' 5@5 ( 5 *&/(! 5." 5 '*#, 5#(.)5 " )-85Äť 5 ..& -5 1 , 5 #.. ,65." 5 -.,/ .#)(5 (),')/-5 ( 5." 5 1")& 5 *#-) 5 )'*&# . 5 35/(*, (. 65 #(. ,7.,# &5 ( 5, &#!#)/-50#)& ( 5." .5&))% 5 .)5." 5)/.-# ,5&#% 5 #0#&51 ,8 Äť 5#'* ,# &5 ), -5 #-*& 3 5 2., 7 ), #( ,35 ( /, ( 5 ( 5-%#&&65 /.5." , 51 , 5 .,) #.# -5)(5 )."5-# -5 -51 &&5 -5 .-5) 5!, .5 ! && (.,385 (35) 5 # .),# ]-5'#&#. ,35" ,) -5 ' 5." #,5( ' -5#(5." 5 /.#(35 -5." 5*, --5 M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

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The Indian Mutiny

Itinerary Day 1: London to Delhi.5 &35 ,)'5 )( )(5 .",)15 .5 85gf8ff '65 ( 5 . ,5 5j 1/h 7")/,5 .#' 5 " (! 65, "5." 5"). &5#(5 & 5 &"#5 -"),.&35 . ,5'# (#!".8 Day 2: Old Delhi, the heart of the uprising. )."#(!5#-5*& (( 5 ), 5 5*, 7&/( "5. &%85 (5 35gnkm5, &&#)/-5- *)3-5Ĺ‚) % 5.)5 &"#5 .)5 -. &#-"5#.5 -5." 5 *#. &5) 5." #,5( 1&35 , 5( .#)(85 (5 /( 5." 5 ,#.#-"5) /*# 5 5 ,# ! 5)0 ,&))%#(!5." 5 #.3651"# "5 .5)( 5-. ! 5 &))% 5.))51 %5.)5-/,0#0 5." 5- &&# -5) 5." 5 '/.#( ,-85 51 &%5)(5." 5 # ! 5. % -5#(5 & !-. Äż5 )1 ,65 5- 5" 0 (5 ),5." 5 ,#.#-"65 ( 5." 5gj."7 (.85 " / /,$#5 )-+/ 85 #-#.5 ." 5 /.# /&&35, -.), 5 # 7 ! &5 ) ! 5 B1" , 5 ), 5 )/(. .. (5*,)*)- 5.)5 1#( C85 0 ,(#!".5 & 5 &"#85 Day 3: Old Delhi.5 35 ,&35 *. ' ,5." 5 -# ! ,-51 , 5-.,)(!5 ()/!"5.)5 .. %5 ( 5 . ,5 51 %]-50# #)/-5Ĺ€!".#(!5 &"#5)( 5 '), 5 ' 5/( ,5 ,#.#-"5 )(.,)&85 #-#.5 ." 5-#. -5) 5-)' 5) 5." 5 ..& -65#( &/ #(!5 ." 5'/ "7-" && 5 -"'#,#5 . 5 ( 5." 5 ,#.#-"5' ! 4#( 85 &%5." 5,)/. 5) 5 ( , &5 # ")&-)(]-5 0 ( 5B" 5 # 51"#& 5-.),'#(!5 ." 5 "), 5 . C5 ( 5- 5." 5 /.#(35 '),# &5 )'' '), .#(!5.")- 5%#&& 5#(5 .#)(85 , 5 . ,())(65),5 (5)*.#)( &50#-#.5.)5 &#5 #5 , #65 5 /!" &5-.,/ ./, 5 ( 5-#. 5) 5 ." 5 ..& 5." .5 &&)1 5." 5 ,#.#-"5.)5) /*35 ." 5 # ! 85 0 ,(#!".5 & 5 &"#8 Day 4: Meerut, the start of the Mutiny. (-*#, 5 35 (5#( # (.5( ,5 & /.. 65)(5 /( 35gf."5 35- *)3-5#(5." 5! ,,#-)(5 .5 ,/.5 ! (5 (5)* (5, 0)&.85 ,)'5" , 5." 5 0#,/-5-*, 85 #-#.5 .5 )"(]-5! ,,#-)(5 "/, "5 ( 5." 5 ' . ,351#."5!, 0 -5) 5." .5 3]-5 0# .#'-85 /( "5 .5 5*,#0 . 5")' 5 ( 5 50#-#.5 35-* # &5 **)#(.' (.5.)5." 5, -# ( 5) 5 .5 )&5 ,'# " &7 '3."651")- 5 )/,.5' ,.# &5 ) 5of5' (5 ),5, /-#(!5.)5/- 5!, - 5 /&& .-5 #-5- # 5.)5" 0 5*,)0# 5." 5-* ,%5." .5#!(#. 5 ." 5)/. , %85 0 ,(#!".5 & 5 &"#8 Day 5: Old Delhi, final days of a King. #-#.5." 5#'*)-#(!5 5 ),.65 (. ,#(!50# 5 ." 5 "), 5 . 51" , 5 #(!5 " /,5 " "5 ,5, &/ . (.&35 )'') . 5." 5 ,/.5 - *)3-85 )! ." ,51#."5." 5 ),.65." 5 '#5 -$# 65 ( # ]-5& ,! -.5')-+/ 65 )'#( . -5 & 5 &"#51#."5#.-5#'*, --#0 5'#( , .-5 ( 5 )' -85Äť 5 /.# /&5! , (5.)' 5) 5 /' 3/(65 (5#'*),. (.5 2 '*& 5) 5 /!" &5 , "#. ./, 651 -51" , 5 ,51 -5 0 (./ &&35 *./, 85 &35.)5 / %()1:5Ĺ€,-.5) 5.", 5 (#!".-5 .5 / %()18 M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

Day 6: Kanpur (Cawnpore), betrayal and horror.5ĝ 5! ,,#-)(5 )'' ( ,5 .5 1(*), 65 (85 " & ,651 -5 -# ! 5 35 "#-5)1(5( .#0 5.,))*-5#(5 5" -.#&35 )(-.,/ . 5 ),.5%()1(5 -5 " & ,]-5 (., ( "' (.85 50#-#.5.)5."#-5 ,, (651 && 5 , 5 ( 5 &&5 )/&]-5 '),# &5 "/, "5 0)% -5." 5 , /&5 )( #.#)(-5 ( /, 5 35-)& # ,-65 #0#&# (-65 1)' (5 ( 5 "#& , (5/(.#&5." 5, &5& ,5 && 5 5 - ŀ, 85 #-#.5 .# " /, 5 " .5)(5 ." 5 (! -651" , 5 /,)* (-5 ( 5&)3 &5 ( # (-51 , 5* ,'#.. 5.)5 ) , 5 ) .-5 /.5 1 , 5*,)'*.&35ŀ, 5/*)(5#(5)( 5) 5." 51),-.5 - ( -5#(5." 5 /.#(385 0 ,(#!".5 / %()185 Day 7: Lucknow, where the Mutiny ebbed and flowed. The battered Residency at

/ %()195 5')(/' (.5.)5." 5 ),./( -5) 5 1 ,85 (5 /&35gnkm5 5.#(35! ,,#-)(5) 5 ,#.#-"5 ( 5 ( # (5.,))*-51 -5 -# ! 5" , 5/(.#&65 #(5 *. ' ,65 #,5 (,35 0 &) %5 ), 5 "#-51 35.",)/!"5 ( 65#(5./,(651 -5 -- #& 85 (5 )0 ' ,5 #,5 )&#(5 '* &&5 ,)0 5 ." 5'/.#( ,-5 -# 5 ( 5 0 / . 5." 5 ( ,-85 (5 , "5gnkn5" 5, ./,( 5 ( 5 ŀ( &&35, *./, 5." 5 #.385 5 0 &) %]-5 '),# &5 ( 5." 5 ..& 7- ,, 5 & ' !"5 & 65 &. ,( . &35) /*# 5 35." 5, &-5 ( 5 ,#.#-"85 #% ( , 5 !"65 5*& -/, 5! , (5 ) 5." 5( 1 -65- ,0 5 -5 5- *)35-.,)(!")& 85 0 ,(#!".5 / %()18 Day 8: Lucknow.5 ), 5& 0#(!5 / %()165 ." , 5#-5 5-* # &50#-#.5.)5 5 ,.#(# , 5 )3-]5 "))&65 5ł ' )3 (.5"3 ,# 5 /#& #(!5) 5gmol85 ĝ 5*,#( #* &65' -. ,-5 ( 5 )3-5) 5." 5 )&& ! 5 -/ -- /&&35 ( 5." 5* ,#' . ,5) 5." 5 !,)/( -5#(5gnkm85 #&%/-" 5 /(.#(!5 ) ! 5 -.#&&5-. ( -5( , 35 -*#. 5-" &&#(!5 /,#(!5." 5 -# ! 85 0 &) %5 # 5" , 85 ) , 5 5())(5., #(5 ( 5., 0 &5k5")/,-5.)5 " (-#5 ( 5 35 ) "5 ),5 gk5'#& -5.)5 , "" 85 * ( 5." 5ŀ,-.5) 5.1)5 (#!".-5#(5 , "" 85 Day 9: Orchha.5 ) . 5 &)- 5.)5." 5 .1 5 #0 ,5)(5 , ' .# 5,) %35. ,, #(65 , "" ]-5 ),' ,5!&),35 -5 *#. &5) 5." 5 /( & 5%#(!-5 #-5 0# (.5#(5." 5'/&.#7 " ' , 5 " (!#,5 " &51#."5& *#-5& 4/&#5.#& -5 ( 5),( . 5 ! . 1 3-85ĝ 5 %-"'#5 '*& 5 )(. #(-5 go."7 (.85 , - ) -5 *# .#(!5." 5 ( 5 ) 5 " (-#5 ),.85 )-.5) 5." 5 . ,())(5#-5 , 5.")/!"5." , 5#-5 (5)*.#)( &50#-#.5.)5 " ../, "/$5 '*& 85 0 ,(#!".5 , "" 85 Day 10: Jhansi, scene of massacre and duplicity.5ĝ 5 . 5-.#&&5, ! -5)0 ,51" ." ,5 (#5 %-"'# #65 / (5) 5 " (-#65%( 15 ." .5." 5.#(35 /,)* (5! ,,#-)(5.)51"# "5 -" 5!/ , (. 5- 5* -- ! 51 , 5!)#(!5.)5 5 .. % 85ĝ #,5'/, ,65")1 0 ,65& 5." 5 16

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1"#& 5." 5 ,#.#-"5 &)- 51#."5." 5 ),.5 ,)'5 -.5 ( 51 -.5-#'/&. ( )/-&385 .3 ]-5 ), -5 #-#(. !, . 5 -5." 5 #. &5 &&5@5." 5& -.5 ..& 5) 5." 5/*,#-#(!85 0 ,(#!".5 1 &#),8 Day 12: Agra, a decisive engagement.5 ,#0 5 ,)'5 1 &#),5.)5 !, 65 5,)/. 5' ,% 5 35 ." 5 , ' .# 5, 0#( -5) 5." 5 " ' &5 #0 ,85

/( "5#-5 .5 5 ),' ,5,)3 &5, -# ( 5 .5 ")&*/,85 (5 /!/-.5gnkm5 )&5 , ." 5 ' , " 51#."5i6fff5' (5 ,)'5 &"#5.)5 !, 5 .)5, *./, 5." 5 -# ! 5 #.385Äť 5'/.#( ,-5 " 5 (5, #( ), 5 . ,5 &"#]-5 &&65 /.5." 5 -/ -- /&5 -- /&.5*, 0 (. 5." 5- *)3-5 ,)'5 &#(%#(!5." #,5 ), -5 ,)'5 (., &5 ( # 51#."5 .")- 5 ,)'5." 5, -.5) 5 (! &85 (5 0 (#(!5 -.,)&&5 35." 5 '/( 5,#0 ,5#-5, 1 , 5 35 5 0# 15) 5." 5 $5 " &85 0 ,(#!".5 !, 85 Day 13: Agra to Delhi.5 #- 5 ,&35.)50#-#.5 ." 5 $5 " &5#(5." 5Ĺ€,-.5&#!".5) 5." 5 385 . ,5 , % -.650#-#.5." 5' !(#Ĺ€ (.5 ),.85 ,' ( (.5, '#( ,-5) 5." 5 0 (.-5 ) 5gnkm5- ,5."#-5 ),'# & 5 (-#0 5 -.,/ ./, 5@5 5 (()(5 &&5' ,%5)(5." 5 " -"5 " &5B #,,),5 & C5 ( 5." 5-)' 1" .5 #( )(!,/)/-5 /.5*)#!( (.5.)' 5) 5 )&5

)"(5 /-- &&65 # /. ( (.5 )0 ,(),5) 5." 5 ),."1 -.5 ,)0#( -651")5 # 5" , 5#(5gnkm85 ,#0 5.)5 &"#85 0 ,(#!".5( ,5." 5 #,*),.855 Day 14: Delhi to London.5 #- 5 ,&35 ),5." 5 Ĺ‚#!".65 ,,#0#(!5 .",)15 .5 85gg8ff '8

Practicalities Price: ÂŁ4,4505B *)-#.5tjffC85Äť#-5#( &/ -95 #,5., 0 &5B )()'35 & --C51#."5 ,#.#-"5 #,1 3-95 )( )(5.)5 &"#5B ) #(!5mjm7jffC65 ( 5 &"#5.)5 )( )(5B ) #(!5mmmC65 ( 5 1#."5 .5 #,1 3-5 &"#5.)5 / %()15B ) #(!5 mim7nffC:5., (-*),.5 35 #,7 )( #.#)( 5 ) "5 ( 5)( 5$)/,( 35 35., #(5B#(5." 5 -.5 & --5 0 #& & C:5 )'') .#)(5 -5 - ,# 5 &)1:5 , % -.-65gg5&/( " -5B#( &/ #(!5h5 * % 5&/( " -C5 ( 5n5 #(( ,-51#."51#( 5),5 ,651 . ,65 )Äż 65. :55 &&5 '#--#)(5 " ,! -5 .)5'/- /'-5 . 8:5 &&5.#*-5 ),51 #. ,-65 ,#0 ,-65 . 8:5." 5- ,0# -5) 5." 5& ./, ,65.)/,5' ( ! ,5 ( 5&) &5!/# -85Single supplement ÂŁ540. Price without the international flights: ÂŁ3,800.

Day 11: Gwalior, the Mutiny’s dÊnouement. #./ . 5)(5 5"#&&65." 5 ),'# & 5 ),.5 .5 1 &#),5#-5& 0#-"&35 ' &&#-" 51#."5 /*)& -5 ( 5 &/ 5.#& -:5#(-# 5 , 5-/* , 5o."5 ( 5gg."7 (.85. '*& -85 , 5 (#5 %-"'# #5" & 5 -.,)(!51#."5 &&)15, &5 .3 5 )* 65/(.#&65 & #(!5 5 0 &,35* .,)&65-" 51 -5-/,*,#- 5 .5 ). "7%#7 , #5#(5 /( 5gnkn5B1" , 5 ),.#ŀ .#)(-5 , 5-.#&&50#-# & C5 ( 5%#&& 5

Lecturer: Patrick Mercer MP.5 . ,5, #(!5 #-.),35 .5 2 ), 5 (#0 ,-#.365 .,# %5 , ,5 $)#( 5." 5 ,'365 )'*& .#(!5(#( 5.)/,-5 #(5 ),." ,(5 , & ( 5 ( 5 )'' ( #(!5"#-5 .. &#)(5#(5 )-(# 65 ( 5 ( 5 # 1),."85 (.#)( 5#(5 -* . " -5#(5 ),." ,(5 , & ( 5#(5goni65" 5, #0 5 5! && (.,35

M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

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) . 50 ,35( ,5.)5." 5' #(5-#. -:5! , (85 1 &#),5Bh5(#!".-C95- .5#(5o5 , -5) 5& ( 65 ."#-5 " ,'#(!5"). &51 -5 ),' ,&35 5*,#0 . 5 palace. Rooms combine traditional decor 1#."5') ,(5 ./, -5 ( 5 , 5& ,! 65&#!".5 ( 5 ,#!".85 !, 5Bg5(#!".C95 5 )' ),. & 651 &&7 ,/(65') ,(5j7-. ,5 &)- 5.)5." 5' #(5-#. -5 1#."5 5-* #)/-5! , (85 15 &"#5Bg5(#!".C95 /( .#)( &5j7-. ,5 &)- 5.)5." 5 #,*),.85 )/,5) 5 ." 5"). &-5" 0 5-1#''#(!5*))&-8 How strenuous?5 5!)) 5& 0 &5) 5Ĺ€.( --5#-5 -- (.# &85 5* ! 5k85 0 , ! 5 #-. ( 5 35 ) "5* ,5 395ji5'#& -85 Small group:5." 5.)/,51#&&5)* , . 51#."5 .1 (5gf5 ( 5hh5* ,.# #* (.-8

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Bengal by River Calcutta and a week’s cruise along the Hooghly 10–23 February 2013 (MZ 474) gj5 3-5R5tj6nof Lecturer: Dr Rosie Llewellyn-Jones Combines four days in Calcutta with a week visiting places along the River Hooghly on an exclusively chartered cruiser. Steeped in history and dense with fine architecture, but off the usual tourist route. Bengal, an outpost of the Mughal Empire and the first region to come under the control of the East India Company. Islamic architecture in Murshidabad and Gaur, distinctive Hindu temples in Baranagar and Kalna, Georgian and Victorian architecture of the Raj. Sailing along the banks of the Hooghly gives a unique insight into unspoilt village life.

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" (5 ),! 5 5 (()/( 5#(5gogg5." .5." 5 capital of British India was to be transferred ,)'5 & /.. 5.)5 &"#65." , 51 -5 #- &# 5 and horror in Bengal. It seemed to overturn the natural order of things. Founded by Job " ,() %5#(5glof5)(5." 5 (%-5) 5." 5'#!".35 ))!"&35 #0 ,65 & /.. 5B()15 )&% . C5" 5 been the headquarters of British rule in India ever since. Today the city is home to over Ĺ€ . (5'#&&#)(65 /.5#.-5" ,.5, ' #(-5& ,! &35 -5 it was during the Raj. /#& #(!-5) 5 &&5-),.-5@5*)&#.# &65 )()'# 65 / .#)( &65, &#!#)/-65, -# (.# &5@5 ),' 5 ." 5 ,#.#-"5 #.385Äť #,5-.3& -65 & --# &5 ( 5 )."# 65 , 5 #4 ,, &35 '#&# ,65 ( 5." #,5-#4 5 #-5-. ,.&#(!65) . (5 2 #(!5." #,5 +/#0 & (.-5 in Britain outside the capital. A walk through the South Park Street Cemetery shows the high price that many Britons paid for coming to Calcutta in search of wealth. ‘Power on -#&.<]51,). 5 #*&#(!5) 5." 5 #.385\ ."5#(5'35

18

" ( -65 /.5 )& <] West Bengal is the land of lost capitals and fading grandeur. Calcutta was only the latest city whose power was snatched away by " (!#(!5*)&#.# &5 0 (.-85 #( /-65 /-&#'-65 ),./!/ - 65 /. "65 (#-"5 ( 5 , ( "5 &&5 )/( 5- ..& ' (.-5)(5." 5 , '365 ,.#& 5 banks of the Hooghly. For a time Bengal was the richest province #(5 ( # 65().5)(&35 /- 5 0 ,3."#(!5- ' 5 to grow in its lush soil but from the industry ) 5#.-5* )*& 5.))85 ( #!)65)*#/'5 ( 5,# 5 1 , 5 -"5 ,)*-65 /.5. 2.#& -5Ĺ€,-.5 .., . 5 European traders in the seventeenth century. Beautiful silk and muslin fabrics were known as ‘woven wind’ because they were so fine. The river was a natural highway. Apart from ." 5 , ( 5 ,/(%5 ) 5) 5." 5 /!" &-65." , 5 was no other way to travel. . * 5#(5"#-.),365 /.5-.#&&50 ,35'/ "5 )Äż5." 5 )(0 (.#)( &5.)/,#-.5,)/. 65."#-5.)/,5 adds a new dimension to India for those who ."#(%5." 35%()15#.65 ( 5.")- 51")5 , 53 .5.)5 encounter it. 5 #( /#-'65 -& '65 #(#-'65 ( 5 Christianity are all practised in Bengal and each faith has built buildings to its gods and !) -- -85Äť 5.)1(5) 5 &( 5#-5( ' 5 . ,5 5' (# -. .#)(5) 5." 5 , 5!) --5 &#65 ." 5 -.,)3 ,51")5&#0 -5#(5 , ' .#)(5!,)/( -65 and wears a necklace of skulls. By contrast the Jain temples in the village of Baranagar are a peaceful anthem in carved brick to non-violence and harmony. Bengal contains ." 5& ,! -.5#' ' , -5#(5 ( # 65 /#& #(!-5 associated with the Shi’a strand of Islam. ).5+/#. 5 5' /-)& /'65 &.")/!"5 /,# &-5 , 5 , +/ (.&35 )/( 5#(5." '65 /.5'), 5 5 ! ." ,#(!5*& 5 ),5." 5 0)/.5 /-&#'85 , '*), 65." 5 (#-"5- ..& ' (.65#-5%()1(5 for its eighteenth-century church. Had the British under Clive not defeated the Nawab Siraj-ud-daula at the Battle of & -- 35#(5gmkm65." 5"#-.),35) 5 ( # 51)/& 5 " 0 5 (50 ,35 #Äż , (.85Äť 5 , ( "65 established at Chandernagore and allies of the 1 651)/& 5" 0 5- #4 5." #,5)**),./(#.365 supported by Francophone rulers elsewhere in India who wanted to counterbalance the pervasive British presence. But it was from their base in Bengal that the British steadily 2. ( 5." #,5,/& 5.",)/!"5." 5 / )(.#( (.855 The charm of the river cruiser we have " ,. , 5 ),5."#-5.)/,5#-5." .65.")/!"5." 5 ) .5#-5 #,&35( 15B /#&.5#(5 & /.. 5#(5hfflC65 on board it feels far removed from modern India and quite close to the India of the Raj. &.")/!"5().5&/2/,#)/-65#.5#-5 )' ),. & 5 ( 5

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" -5!, .5 " ,'5 ( 5 (5 2 && (.5 , 185Äť , 5 1#&&5 5 5' 2#'/'5) 5.1 (.35* -- (! ,-85 Lounging on the top deck after a fulfilling 35) 5-#!".- #(!51#."5 5!#(5;5.)(# 5B) 5 1"# "5 5+/). 5#-5#( &/ 5#(5." 5*,# C65 watching rural life on the banks as dusk &&-65 )' -5*, ..35 &)- 5.)5 5* , .5 ( # (5 2* ,# ( 8

Itinerary Days 1 & 2: London to Calcutta (Kolkata), via Dubai. &35 .5 85g8if*'5 ,)'5 )( )(5 Heathrow to Calcutta via Dubai where there #-5 5h7")/,5-.)*85 "5." 5"). &5 85o8ff '5 B.#' 5 #Äż , ( 5 ,)'5 5#-5k1/h5")/,-8C5Äť 5 rest of the morning is free. In the afternoon 0#-#.5." 5 )/."5 ,%5 ., .5 ' . ,3651" , 5 tombs of the early British settlers are of a monumental classicism without parallel in ,#. #(65 ( 51 &%5.)5 5 ,.#(#ĂŽ, 5 "))&-85 First of four nights in Calcutta.

5 /% *" 5#(5 & /.. 85 #&5.)5." 5 ),' ,5 ,#.#-"5! ,,#-)(5.)1(5) 5 ,, %*), 85 (35 go."7 (.85 /#& #(!-5, ' #(65#( &/ #(!5." 5 ,#0 ,-# 5 )0 ,(' (.5 )/- 5BgngiC51#."5#.-5 ' *"), 5 )1 ,65* ,.5) 5 5,#0 ,5-#!( &&#(!5 -3-. '65 ( 5." 5 & ! (.5 )7 , %5 '*& 5 of Fame. The gardens of Flagstaff House now serve as repository for colonial statuary removed from Calcutta. The Danish colony of Serampore is across the river. First of seven nights on board the RV Sukapha. Day 7: Chandernagore, Chinsura, Hooghly. (5." 5'),(#(!65- #&5/*-., '5.)5." 5 ),' ,5 , ( "5 )&)(35) 5 " ( ,( !), 65 -. &#-" 5 #(5glmi85 #-#.5." 5, ' #(#(!5 "/, " -5 ( 5

cemeteries as well as Governor Joseph , (ĂŠ)#-5 /*& #2]-5 )/- 85 #&5.)5 "#(-/, 5 to visit the 17th-cent. Dutch Cemetery before continuing by cycle-rickshaw to Hooghly 1" , 5." 5go."7 (.85 "#] 5 ' ' , 5) 5 4#5 )" '' 5 )" -#(5 )(. #(-5Ĺ€( 5' , & 5 inlay. Overnight RV Sukapha. Day 8: Kalna, Nabadwip, Mayapur. At &( 650#-#.5." 5- ,# -5) 5Ĺ€( 5gn."7 (.85 terracotta temples and the unique Shiva . '*& 51#."5 )( (.,# 5,#(!-5 )'*,#-#(!5gfn5 double-vaulted shrines. Sail to the pilgrimage (., 5) 5 1#*651" , 5." 5,#0 ,5!" .-5 are lined with active temples. The skyline of 3 */,5)(5." 5)**)-#. 5 (%5#-5 )'#( . 5

Day 3: Calcutta. The Anglican cathedral of St /&65 )'*& . 5#(5gnjm5#(5 )."# 5-.3& 65" -5 many fine memorials and a window by Burne )( -65)( 5) 5"#-5 -.85 )'*& . 5#(5gohg65 ." 5 # .),# 5 '),# &5#-5." 5')-.5#'*)-#(!5 building in Calcutta. It houses a collection of European paintings and a display on the "#-.),35) 5." 5 #.385ĝ 5 ( # (5 /- /'65 /#&.5 by Granville to house the collection from ." 5 -# .# 5 ) # .365#-5 ( # ]-5')-.5#'*),. (.5 collection of sculpture. Overnight Calcutta. Day 4: Calcutta. This morning’s walk provides a survey of the civic buildings from ." 5& . 5gn."5 (./,385 .5 )"(]-5 "/, "65 1"# "5 . -5 %5.)5gmnj65#-5&))- &35') && 5 )(5 .5 ,.#(7#(7." 7 # & -5#(5 )( )(5B&#% 5 "/( , -5.",)/!")/.5." 5!&) C85 (5." 5 !,)/( -65." 5' /-)& /'5) 5 ) 5 " ,() %65 ." 5 )/( ,5) 5 & /.. 65#-5." 5 ,&# -.5 British building in India. We also visit the (.#+/ ,# (5 )&& .#)(-5) 5." 5 , & 5 & 5 B 35-* # &5 ,, (! ' (.C85 0 ,(#!".5 & /.. 85 Day 5: Calcutta.5ĝ 5 !" (5 0# 5 3( !)!/ 5BgnnjC5 ( 5." 5 ,' (# (5 "/, "5 BgmfmC5 , 5, '#( ,-5) 5." 50 ,# .35) 5 religions which thrived in Calcutta prior to Independence. The Home of Rabindranath !), 65." 5 (! &#5*) .5 ( 5*"#&)-)*" ,5 1")5, #0 5." 5 ) &5 ,#4 5 ),5&#. , ./, 5 #(5gogi65*,)0# -5 (5#(-#!".5#(.)5." 5 (! &#5 Intellectual Renaissance which in turn led to the Independentist movement. Overnight Calcutta. Day 6: Barrackpore, Serampore. Board the M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

ĹŽĹ›ŢĹ‘95 Ĺ?Ĺ˜Ĺ?ĹĄĹ Ĺ Ĺ?65Ĺ?ĹžĹ?ţŕŚœ5ĹŽĹĽ5 Ĺ‘Ĺ&#x;řśŚĹ?5 śŕœ5ĹœĹĄĹŽĹ˜Ĺ•Ĺ&#x;ŔőĹ?5Ĺ•Ĺš5ŠŔő5 ĹĄĹšĹ?Ĺ?ĹĽ5 Ĺ Ĺ?Ĺ Ĺ‘Ĺ&#x;Ĺ™Ĺ?Ĺš5Ĺ?85Č˜Č Č?Č—85 ĹœĹœĹ›Ĺ&#x;Ĺ•Ĺ Ĺ‘95Ĺ?Ĺ‘Ĺ Ĺ?Ĺ•Ĺ˜5śŒ5Ĺ?5Ĺ™Ĺ?Ĺœ5ĹŽĹĽ5 ŔśřĹ?Ĺ&#x;5 Ĺ•Ĺ Ĺ?ŔŕŚ5Ĺ?85Č˜Č&#x;Č—Č—8 go

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Bengal by River

Ĺ•ŢĹ‘Ĺ‘Ĺž5 Ĺ?ŚœőĹ&#x;5BŚŎ5ŚśŠ5 Ĺ›Ĺ›Ĺ“Ĺ”Ĺ˜ĹĽC65őŚœŞĹ?ŢŕŚœ5Ĺ?85Č˜Č&#x;Č™Čœ8

#(5." 5 #.35 (., 85 (5) -#-5) 5 )&)(# &5 " ,'65 defined by impeccable service. There is a pool in central courtyard garden.

by a vast new temple. Overnight RV Sukapha. Day 9: Matiari, Plassey. Visit the village ) 5 .# ,#51" , 5 , --5#-51),% 51#."5 ., #.#)( &5' .") -85 . ,5- #&#(!5 /,." ,65 ." , 5#-5 (5 2 /,-#)(5.)5." 5-#. 5) 5." 5 ..& 5) 5 & -- 3651" , 5 ) ,.5 &#0 ]-5gmkm5 0# .),35)0 ,5." 5 1 5) 5 (! &65 #, $7/ 7 Daulah was the prelude to consolidation ( 5 2. (-#)(5) 5." 5 -.5 ( # 5 )'* (3]-5 power in Bengal and beyond. Overnight RV /% *" 5 .5 /,-"# 8 Day 10: Murshidabad. Äť 5 /!" &5 "/-" !"5#-5 5* /&51 && 5*& -/, 7 garden containing the Tomb of Siraj-ud /& "5 ( 5 '#&385 5' !(#Ĺ€ (.5 2 '*& 5) 5 , %5 0#0 &5 , "#. ./, 65." 5 4 , / ,#5 & 51 -5 /#&.5 35 /( (5 ) 5#(5gnim5 as a guest house for the Nawab. The museum holds a respectable collection of European * #(.#(!-65- /&*./, 5 ( 5 ,'-85Äť 5#'*)-#(!5 ., 5 )-+/ 5BgmhjC5#-5') && 5)(5." 5!, .5 ')-+/ 5 .5 85 #-#.5." 5 -"#* , 5 ( 5 .!)& 5* & -65gn."7 (.85")' -5) 5,# "5 Jain merchants in classical Georgian style. Overnight RV Sukapha. Day 11: Baranagar. Sail to the village of Baranagar and walk through fields to visit three miniature carved-brick Jain temples. Sail in the afternoon through a stretch of charming waterway that weaves past banks lush with mango groves and mustard crops. Overnight RV Sukapha at Jangipur.

.)5." 5+/# .5 #.35) 5 /,65." 5 ( # (.5 *#. &5 of Bengal. Situated within easy reach of ." 5 & %5 - &.5 $' " &5"#&&-65 /,5#-5 ŀ&& 51#."5 & ! (.5 /-&#'5,/#(-85ĝ 5' (35 ')-+/ -65* & -5 ( 5! . 1 3-5-. ( 5 -5 testament to a prosperous past and gifted stonemasons. Overnight RV Sukapha. Day 13: Disembark Farakka. Calcutta. At , %% 65 #- ' ,%5." 5 5 /%/*" 5#(5." 5 early morning and transfer to the station to ) , 5 5., #(5 ),5 & /.. 5B 5$)/,( 35) 5 85l5 ")/,-C85ĝ 5, -.5) 5." 5 35#-5 .5& #-/, 85 ( 5 more night in Calcutta. Day 14: Calcutta85 . ,5 5h7")/,5-.)*)0 ,5#(5 / #65." 5ł#!".5 ,,#0 -5 .",)15 8l8ff*'8

Practicalities Price: ÂŁ4,890 B *)-#.5tjffC85Äť#-5#( &/ -95 #,5., 0 &5B )()'35 & --C5)(5Ĺ‚#!".-51#."5 '#, . -95, ./,(5 )( )(5.)5 / #5B #, /-5 inf@nffC65 / #5.)5 & /.. 5B #, /-5iif@ hffC:5., 0 &5 35*,#0 . 5 #,7 )( #.#)( 5 ) ":5 accommodation in the hotel and aboard the ,#0 ,5 ,/#- ,5 -5 - ,# 5 &)165 , % -.-65 gf5&/( " -5B#( &/ #(!5g5* % 5&/( "C5 ( 5 gg5 #(( ,-51#."51#( 5),5 ,651 . ,5 ( 5 )Äż :5 &&5 '#--#)(-5.)5'/- /'-5 ( 5-#. -:5 &&5.#*-5 ),5 ,#0 ,-65, -. /, (.5-. Äż65 ( 5&) &5 !/# -:5 #,*),.5. 2 -:5." 5- ,0# 5) 5 5& ./, ,85 Single supplement ÂŁ1,550. Price without international flights: ÂŁ4,340.

Day 12: Gaur, Farakka. Drive from Jangipur

Hotel85 & /.. 5Bj5(#!".-65g5(#!".C95 5&)(!7 -. &#-" 5&/2/,35"). &5 )(0 (# (.&35&) . 5

M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

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River cruiser95 5 /%/*" 5Bm5(#!".-C95 /#&.5 #(5hffl65#.5#-5().5&/2/,#)/-5 /.5#.5#-5 +/ . &35 comfortable and has great charm. The decor #-5-#'*& 65Ĺ‚)),-5 ( 51 &&-5 #(!5) 51)) 85 #(-5 , 5 #,&35-* #)/-51#."5 2 && (.5 showers. There is a spacious dining room with /&&7& (!."51#( )1-651"# "5 , 5! ( , &&35 )* (5 /,#(!5." 5 365 5- &))(51#."5 5 ,5 .5 the bow and an open deck half covered with a tarpaulin and well stocked with wickerwork chairs and loungers. There is a massage and " &."5., .' (.5,))'65 **,)*,# . &35-. Äż 85 Shore is reached by a small launch. Service is 2 && (.8 Changes to the itinerary: circumstances might arise which prevent us operating ." 5.)/,5 -5 0 ,.#- 85 (5." 5,#0 ,65 #, /'-. ( -5-/ "5 -5." 5 5 ( 5Ĺ‚)15) 5." 5 tide and shifting silt levels might necessitate omission of one or more ports of call. We would try and devise a satisfactory alternative. Lecturer: Dr Rosie Llewellyn-Jones is an authority on colonial India from the 18th .)5." 5hf."5 (./,385 " 5" -5&#0 5#(5 ( # 65 1,#.. (5 2. (-#0 &35 )/.5 #.65 ( 50#-#.-5 .5& -.5)( 5 a year. She has published a number of books on

/ %()165#.-5 /#& #(!-65 and inhabitants including Engaging Scoundrels: True Tales of Old Lucknow BhfffC5 ( 5." 5 & #' 5 Lucknow, City of Illusion5BhfflC85 ,5 ))%5 )(5." 5 /.#(365The Great Uprising in India: Untold stories, Indian and British]5BhffmC51)(5 critical praise. She lectures for the Asian Arts )/,- 5 .5." 5 ; 5 /- /'65 )( )(85 " 5 #-5 /,, (.&35 , . ,35) 5 5B ,#.#-"5 --) # .#)(5 ),5 ' . ,# -5#(5 )/."5 -# C65 as well as editor of the BACSA journal ‘Chowkidar’. She works part-time at the )3 &5 ) # .35 ),5 -# (5 Äż #,-65 -5." 5 archivist and is also a member of the Royal Asiatic Society. How strenuous? A good level of fitness is essential. See page 5. Small group: the tour will operate with .1 (5gh5 ( 5hf5* ,.# #* (.-8

w w w. m a r t i n r a n d a l l . c o m


Temples of Tamil Nadu Architecture, sculpture and ritual 14–26 January 2013 (MZ 450) gi5 3-5R5ti6nnf Lecturer: Professor Adam Hardy The art and architecture of Hinduism in the southernmost state of the Subcontinent. Includes Mamallapuram, Thanjavur, Srirangam and Madurai. The tour looks at other aspects of India in Pondicherry, the Chettinad region and elsewhere. The lecturer is both an architectural historian and a practising architect, and the designer of a temple in India. Lush tropical landscapes, rice paddies, sugar cane, coconut groves, neat colourful villages. Since its formative phase in the seventh century Ĺ?Ĺ?65." 5-)/." ,(5),5 , 0# 5., #.#)(5 of Indian temple architecture has shown an 2., ), #( ,35 )(.#(/#.35/*5.)5." 5*, - (.5 365, Ĺ‚ .#(!5." 5 )(.#(/#.35) 5, &#!#)/-5 practices which it has framed. This tour traces the development of that tradition throughout #.-5"#-.),365)Äż ,#(!5 (5 2* ,# ( 5) 5#.-51")& 5 , (! 5) 5 2*, --#)(65 ,)'5- (-/)/-5#(.#' 35 to monumental grandeur.

#% 5." 5 , "#. ./, &5., #.#)(65." 5.)/,5 begins with the seventh-century temples of the Pallava dynasty at their seaport of ' && */, '95,) %7 /.5 0 5- ( ./ ,# -5 where mythological moments are presented in )0 ,1" &'#(!5, &# 5 ,0#(!-65 ( 5')()&#."# 5 shrines conceived as palaces of the gods. The famous shore temple belongs to the eighth century. By this time the Pallava rulers could -*#, 5.)5." 5-. ./-5) 5/(#0 ,- &5')( , "65 ( 5 $ -#'" 65 .5"#-5 *#. &5 ( "#*/, '65 /#&.5." 5!, .5 #& - ( ." 5B ), 5) 5 )/(.5 #& - C65 5\. '*& 5')/(. #(]5." .5, *, - (.-5 ." 5 (.#, 5 )-')-65&#(%#(!5." 5"/' (51),& 5 with the heavens. ' && ,5. '*& -51 , 5." 5,/& 65")1 0 ,65 erected in villages and at sacred sites as !,# /&./, 5 ( 5 #( /5-) # .35 2* ( 5 ,)--5." 5, !#)(85Äť 5.)/,5#( &/ -5 2 '*& -5 ,)'5." 5 ")& 5* ,#) 5B(#(."5.)5."#,. (."5 (./,# -C5#(5." 5 /0 ,35 -#(65(). 5 ),5 ." #,5 2+/#-#. 5- /&*./, 5#(5!, (#. 85 ,)'5 ."#-5 ,.#& 5" ,.& ( 5." 5 /&./, &5#(Ĺ‚/ ( 5 of the Chola realm spread across the seas to Southeast Asia. M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

In complete contrast to the human scale of &) &5-",#( -65." 5#'* ,# &5 ")& 5. '*& -5) 5 the eleventh and twelfth centuries are India’s most colossal religious monuments. With its lf'7"#!"5.)1 ,65." 5 ,#" #-"0 , 5. '*& 5 .5 ĝ ($ 0/,5B ($), C5/- -5 ),.35.#' -5 -5'/ "5 stone as the average Chola temple. Assigned to this establishment were no fewer than four hundred dancing girls. The later Chola temples initiated the ., ( 5.)1 , -5 0 ,5& ,! ,5. '*& 5 )'*& 2 -65 with concentric enclosures entered through .)1 ,#(!5!)*/, '-5B! . 1 3-C85ĝ - 5\. '*& 7 cities’ reached their apogee under the Nayaka ,/& ,-5B-#2. (."5 ( 5- 0 (. (."5 (./,# -C65 enclosures and gopurams being added on an #( , -#(!&35')(/' (. &5- & 65." 5*, #( .-5 including water tanks and great pillared " &&-85 '*& 5 )'*& 2 -5 ' 5*)1 , /&5 )()'# 5/(#.-65")/-#(!5 5'/&.#*&# #.35) 5 /( .#)(-5@5,#./ &65 '#(#-., .#0 65 ,.#-.# 65 '/-# &65 / .#)( &5 ( 5 " ,#. & 85 The tour covers several of these later )'*& 2 -65 "5) 5." '5-.#&&5.",)(!#(!5 with life as a thriving cult centre. To wander in the streets of temple towns such as Chidambaram and Srirangam reveals how the temple determines the nature of the whole - ..& ' (.65 )."5#(5#.-5 ),' &5& 3)/.5 ( 5#(5 the ritual and processional activities that punctuate the religious calendar. -51 &&5 -5." 5 44&#(!5, (! 5) 5- /&*./, 5

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that forms an inseparable part of South ( # (5. '*& 5 , "#. ./, 65." , 5 , 5, , 5 remnants of early Indian painting which developed in parallel. The tour enables * ,.# #* (.-5.)5 2 '#( 5., -5) 5* #(.#(!5 ,)'5." 5 && 0 5* ,#) 65." 5/(#+/ 5 #!"."7 century murals in the Jain cave temple at #.. ( 0 - &65 ( 5." 51)( , /&5 ")& 5'/, &-5 #(5." 5 ,#" #-"0 , 65Äť ($ 0/,65 -51 &&5 -5 works of the Nayaka period and the later Tanjore school. Other aspects of the tour complement the focus on temples. The courtyard houses of Chettinad were the homes of Chettiar ' , " (.-65 5 )''/(#.351")- 5* .,)( ! 5 of temples in the colonial period helped to ensure the continuation of the Dravida tradition. The former French colony of Pondicherry contains interesting architectural 2 '*& -5) 5 ,)--7 /&./, &5#(. , .#)(651"#& 5 the nearby Sri Aurobindo Ashram gives form to new manifestations of spirituality.

Itinerary Days 1 & 2: London to Chennai (Madras), Mamallapuram. Fly from London Heathrow .5 85o8if '5 #, .5.)5 " (( #65 ( 5 . ,5 a 51/h -hour time change reach the hotel in ' && */, '5 .5 85i8if '85 )5 &&)153)/5 .)5-& *65." 5'),(#(!5#-5 , 5/(.#&5 5. &%5 before lunch in the hotel. Then visit the 7th-cent. cave temples with mythological , &# 5* ( &-65#( &/ #(!5." 5 2., ), #( ,#&35 3( '# 5 "#-" -/, ' , #(#5B /,! 5-& 3#(!5 ." 5 /Äż &)5 ')(C5 ( 5." 5!, .5 ,$/( ]-5 * ( ( 5, &# 5B\ - (.5) 5." 5 (! -]C855

& * " ) ( 5 f h f 5 n m j h 5 i i k k


Temples of Tamil Nadu

0 ,(#!".5 ' && */, '8 Day 3: Mamallapuram. The elegant Shore Temple combines shrines to Shiva and #-"(/85ĝ 5m."7 (.85')()&#."# 5-",#( -65 #( &/ #(!5." 5-)7 && 5ŀ0 5, ." -5B " ,#).-C65 are a veritable catalogue of the architectural possibilities inherent in the Dravida tradition at this early stage. Picnic lunch at the secluded and shaded site of the Tiger Cave. 0 ,(#!".5 ' && */, '8 Day 4: Kanchipuram. Once the Pallava *#. &5 ( 5-.#&&5 (5#'*),. (.5")&35 #.365 ( "#*/, '5#-5 /&&5) 5 ( # (.5. '*& -85ĝ 5 #& - ( ." 5 '*& 65." 5 )-'# 5')/(. #(5 ) 5 && 0 5,/& ,5 $ -#'" 5B 85mff7mhnC5 # . 5.)5 "#0 65#-51#."#(5 51 && 5 compound and girdled with shrines. The % ' , -"0 , 651#."5.)1 ,#(!5!)*/, '-5 ) 5." 5 #$ 3 ( ! , 5* ,#) 5Bgl."7 (.8C65!#0 -5 5ŀ,-.5. -. 5) 5 5& ,! 5. '*& 5 )'*& 25-.#&&5 0 ,35'/ "5#(5/- 85 5." 5- ' 5* ,#) 65." 5 Varadaraja Temple has superb sculpture. 0 ,(#!".5 ' && */, '8 Day 5: Pondicherry. )( # " ,,35B.1)5")/,-5 35 ) "C5#-5 5 ),' ,5 , ( "5 ( & 0 5." .5 retains much of its colonial charm. Visit a private mansion before lunching on the seafront. An afternoon walk through the French Quarter includes the peaceful Sri /,) #( )5 -", '651")- 5#(ł/ ( 5)0 ,5." 5 town is evident beyond its central confines. Overnight Pondicherry. Day 6: Chidambaram, Gangaikondacholapuram. The temple town of Chidambaram is planned on the mandala principle around ." 5gh."7 (.85 . , $ 5 '*& 85 )' 5.)5 "#0 5 -5." 5 )-'# 5 ( ,65." , 5#-5- /&*./, 5 depicting classical dance and lively 17thcent. narrative ceiling paintings. Continue .)5 (! #%)( ")& */, '65." 5\ #.35) 5 the Chola who conquered the Ganges’: the Brihadishvara is a gigantic imperial Chola . '*& 5 , . 5 35 $ ( , 5 5Bgfgh@jjC85 The composition of the tower is subtle and )'*& 285 #,-.5) 5.", 5(#!".-5#(5 ** ."/,65 ( ,5 /' %)( '8

Ĺ˜Ĺ˜ĹĄĹ&#x;Ĺ ĹžĹ?ŠŕśŚĹ&#x;85 ŞőŢŕśťĹ&#x;5ĹœĹ?Ĺ“Ĺ‘95ŠŔő5 ŔśŞő5 Ĺ‘Ĺ™ĹœĹ˜Ĺ‘5Ĺ?Ĺ 5 Ĺ?Ĺ™Ĺ?Ĺ˜Ĺ˜Ĺ?ĹœĹĄĹžĹ?Ĺ™65őŚœŞĹ?ŢŕŚœ5Ĺ?Ĺ’Ĺ Ĺ‘Ĺž5 Ĺ•Ĺ˜Ĺ˜Ĺ•Ĺ?Ĺ™5 Ĺ?ĹšĹ•Ĺ‘Ĺ˜Ĺ˜5Ĺ?85Č˜Č&#x;șȗ85 ĹŽĹ›ŢĹ‘95 ťřŎĹ?ŗśŚĹ?Ĺ™65ţśśĹ?5őŚŞĹ?ŢŕŚœ5Č˜Č&#x;ČžČ˜85 ĹœĹœĹ›Ĺ&#x;Ĺ•Ĺ Ĺ‘95 Ĺ?Ĺ?ĹĄĹžĹ?Ĺ•655Ĺ?Ĺ‘Ĺ Ĺ?Ĺ•Ĺ˜5śŒ5Ĺ?5 ţśśĹ?5őŚœŞĹ?ŢĹ•ĹšŢĹ“5ĹŽĹĽ5 Ĺ•Ĺ˜Ĺ˜Ĺ•Ĺ?Ĺ™5Ĺ?ĹšĹ?5 ŔśřĹ?Ĺ&#x;5 Ĺ?ĹšĹ•Ĺ‘Ĺ˜Ĺ˜5Č˜Č&#x;Č˜Č™85 M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

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Day 7: Kumbakonam, Darasuram, Swamimalai. /' %)( '5#-5 5.",#0#(!5 town with numerous temples from the Chola * ,#) 5 ( 5& . ,65#( &/ #(!5." 5 ! -"0 , 5 which has some of the finest early Chola - /&*./, 85Äť 5 " ' % '5. (%5Bgm."7 (.8C5#-5- # 5.)5/(#. 5." 51 . ,-5) 5 &&5 ( # ]-5- , 5,#0 ,-85 .5 , -/, '65." 5 #, 0 . -"0 , 5. '*& 5Bgh."7 (.8C5#-5 5& . 5 ")& 5' -. ,*# 5Bggjl7mhC65 !/#&#(!&35 w w w. m a r t i n r a n d a l l . c o m


sensuous and architecturally lucid. The Sthala /, ( '5 '*& 5 .5 1 '#' & #65 # . 5 .)5 ), 5 /,/! (5B-)(5) 5 "#0 C65#-5)(5 5"#&&5 with city views. Overnight Veppathur. Day 8: Thanjavur. Drive to Thanjavur to 0#-#.5." 5 ,#" #-"0 , 65 $ , $ 5 ]-5 )&)-- &5 #'* ,# &5. '*& 5B 85gfgfC85Äť 5 )'*)/( 5 is entered via the earliest of the truly monumental gopurams and also contains a 0 ,# .35) 5-/ -# # ,35-",#( -65#( &/ #(!5." 5 Ĺ€( &35 "#- && 5 / , "' (3 5Bgm."7 (.8C85 The museum in the Nayaka palace houses a Ĺ€( 5 )&& .#)(5) 5 ")& 5- /&*./, 65#( &/ #(!5 ,)(4 -85 /( "5#-5 .5 5, -),.5)(5." 5 .., .#0 5 banks of the Cauvery River. Overnight Veppathur. Day 9: Srirangam, Nattarmalai, Sittanavasal. Srirangam is a classic temple town dominated by the concentric enclosures ) 5." 5"/! 5 (! ( ." 5. '*& 5 )'*& 25 Bgi."5 (.85)(1 , -C85 ')(!5." 5(/' ,)/-5 -.,/ ./, -5#-5." 5 (! 0#& - 5 ( * 51#."5 )&/'(-5. '#(!51#."5- /&*./, 85Äť 5o."7 cent. Vijayalaya-Cholishvara temple is set in a beautiful hilly landscape at Nattarmalai. Continue through enchanting countryside .)5." 5 ,#0 ,5 )#&5 0 5. '*& 5Bn."7 (.8C5 containing vibrant mural paintings evoking the abundance of nature. Overnight ( /% ." (65( ,5 , #%/ #85 Day 10: Alagarkovil, Madurai. A , & 2#(!5'),(#(!51 &%5.",)/!"5." 5-' &&5 " ..#( 5.)1(5) 5 ( /% ." (85 #-#.5 5 '#&35' (-#)(65 5Ĺ€( 5 2 '*& 5) 5-" , 5 accommodation according to the Chettiar ., #.#)(85 (5." 5 . ,())(5 ,#0 5.)5 /, #65 0# 5 & ! ,%)0#&65 5"#&&.)*5. '*& 5 # . 5 .)5 && & ! ,65 5 ),'5) 5 #-"(/85 #,-.5) 5.1)5 (#!".-5#(5 /, #8 Day 11: Madurai. Äť 50 -.5 ( %-"#5 '*& 5 )'*& 265')-.&35 , . 5#(5." 5gm."5 (.85/( ,5." 5 3 % 5,/& ,-51" (5 /, #5 1 -5 (5#( * ( (.5%#(! )'65#-5." 5 *#.)' 5 of a South Indian ‘temple-city’. Its towering ! . 1 3-65-1 ." 5#(5 )&)/, 5Ĺ€!/, -65,#- 5 /*5.)5lf'85Äť 5 / /5' ( * 5#-5 (5)* (5 " &&51#."5"/! 5 ( 5 2/ , (.5- /&*. 5*# ,-5 with portrait sculptures of Nayaka kings and ministers. The grand pillared Celestial Pavilion is all that remains of the 17th-cent. Thirumalai Nayaka Palace. Revisit the ( %-"#5#(5." 5 0 (#(!5 ),5." 5 ( ,! .# 5 ,.#5 , ')(385 0 ,(#!".5 /, #8

is considered one of the sacred abodes of /,/! (85Äť 5-",#( 5 )(. #(-5 *# .#)(-5) 5 Durga and Ganesh and is approached by a - ,# -5) 5' ( * -5Bgm."75 ( 5gn."7 (.-8C85 Lunch is at a hilltop location with a fabulous 0# 15) 5." 5 #.385 . ,())(5Ĺ‚#!".5 /, #5.)5 " (( #:5)0 ,(#!".5 " (( #8 Day 13. Äť 5 #, .5Ĺ‚#!".5 ,)'5 " (( #5 ,,#0 -5 .5 )( )(5 .",)15 .5 85o8if '8

Practicalities Price: ÂŁ3,880 B *)-#.5tjffC85Äť#-5#( &/ -95 #,5., 0 &5B )()'35 & --C5)(5Ĺ‚#!".-5 with British Airways: return London .)5 " (( #5B ) #(!5mmmC5 ( 51#."5 .5 #,1 3-5 )(( .95 /, #5.)5 " (( #5 B mhC:5., 0 &5 35*,#0 . 5 #,7 )( #.#)( 5 ) ":5 )'') .#)(5 -5 - ,# 5 &)165 , % -.-65gf5&/( " -5B#( &/ #(!5h5* % 5 &/( " -C5 ( 5n5 #(( ,-51#."51#( 5),5 ,65 1 . ,5 ( 5 )Äż :5 &&5 '#--#)(-5.)5'/- /'-5 ( 5-#. -:5 &&5.#*-5 ),5 ,#0 ,-65, -. /, (.5-. Äż65 ( 5&) &5!/# -:5 #,*),.5. 2 -:5." 5- ,0# 5) 5 a lecturer. Single supplement ÂŁ470. Price without international flights: ÂŁ3,350. Hotels. ' && */, '5Bj5(#!".-C95- ,)(.5 resort with direct access to the beach. Rooms are spacious and neat. There are several dining )*.#)(-5)(5-#. 85 )( # " ,,35Bg5(#!".C95 (5 attractively restored 18th-century mansion in the heart of the French Quarter with a pretty central courtyard which doubles as a dining area. Each room is uniquely and elegantly ), . 85 ** ."/,65( ,5 /' %)( '5 Bj5(#!".-C95- .5#(5 5* /&65,/, &5&) .#)(65 immersed in a garden of coconut palms with a pool. The cottage rooms are simple /.5 )' ),. & 65., #.#)( &5#(5-.3& 651#."5 )/.-# 5- .#(!5)(5 5*), "85 ( /% ." (65 ( ,5 , #%/ #55Bg5(#!".C95 (5 .., .#0 5 ( 5- (-#.#0 &35, -.), 5'# 5hf."7 (./,35 Chettinad mansion in the heart of a small .)1(85 ))'-5 , 5& ,! 51#."5* ,#) 5.)/ " -65 and some open out on to the surrounding ! , (651" , 5." , 5#-5 5*))&85 /, #5Bh5 (#!".-C95 5, -),.5"). &51#."50 ,35 )' ),. & 5 1 &&7 +/#** 5,))'-85 " (( #5Bg5(#!".C95 5 well-run 4-star hotel conveniently located for access to the airport.

Day 12: Thiruparankundram, Chennai. The 8th-cent. Pandyan Temple at Äť#,/* , (%/( , '65 /.5#(.)5 5!, (#. 5"#&&65

Lecturer: Professor Adam Hardy is an architect and architectural historian. For thirty years he has been studying the , "#. ./, 5) 5 ( # (5. '*& -65#.-5 -#!(5 *,#( #*& -65 ( 5#.-5, & .#)(-"#*5.)5 ( # (5 society and culture. His many publications on the subject include Indian Temple Architecture:

M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

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Form and Transformation5BgoolC5 ( 5The Temple Architecture of India5BhffmC85 -5 (5 architect he has been involved in the design of several Hindu temples in ." 5 65 ( 5#-5 /,, (.&35 designing a new temple near Bangalore to be /#&.5#(5." 5),( . 65 twelfth-century style ) 5." 5 )3- & 5 3( -.365 using traditional construction techniques. He is Professor of Asian Architecture at , #Äż5 (#0 ,-#.3651" , 5" 5,/(-5." 5, - , "5 (., 5 5B , .# 65 - , "5 ( 5 Advancement in South Asian Design and , "#. ./, C8 How strenuous? A good level of fitness is essential. See page 5. Average distance by coach per day: 45 miles. Small group: the tour will operate with .1 (5gf5 ( 5hh5* ,.# #* (.-8

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The British Raj Bombay, Calcutta, Delhi: history and architecture 5–17 January 2013 (MZ 451) gi5 3-5R5tl6hhf Lecturers: David Gilmour & Professor Gavin Stamp Led by two eminent lecturers, a historian of the Raj and a specialist in Victorian and Edwardian architecture. Visits the major centres of British power, still India’s leading cities – Bombay (Mumbai), Calcutta (Kolkata) and Delhi. There is an extraordinary wealth of Europeanstyle architecture from the late eighteenth century to the middle of the twentieth. Little-visited treasures as well as the major ones feature, with private visits and special access a feature of the tour. An archetypical case of the MRT policy of travelling less and seeing more, with four days in each of the cities and free time. (5 5"#-.),35) 5." 51),& ]-5 '*#, -65 ,#.#-"5 ( # 51)/& 5-. ( 5)/.5 -5 (5 2., ' 5) #.385 Both the way in which India was acquired and the means by which she was governed ( 5 '#(#-., . 51 , 5 2 *.#)( &85 .5#-5().5'/ "5) 5 (5 2 !! , .#)(5.)5- 35 that the Subcontinent became British almost by accident. There was never an official 2* (-#)(#-.5-., . !365 ( 5#( 5.#' 5 ( 5 again governments in London urged restraint or proscribed further territorial enlargement. When on occasion enthusiasts conceived grand designs they were usually stymied by the doctrine of ‘masterly inactivity’. 2., ), #( ,#&365 ),5." 5Ĺ€,-.5.1)7 ( 7 7 " & 5 (./,# -5) 5 ,#.#-"5*, - ( 65 ( # 51 -5 not ruled by the Crown but by a commercial firm. The Honourable East India Company 1 -5 )/( 5#(5gkoo65)( 5) 5- 0 , &5-/ "5 European enterprises initiated at the time to trade with the East via the recently discovered sea routes. But unlike most of ." 5)." ,-65." 5 51 -5().5, ! , 5 -5 (5 arm of government and did not receive state -/ -# 385 (&35#(5." 5 . ,' ."5) 5." 5 /.#(35 of 1857–8 did India come to be ruled from Westminster and Whitehall. British India was initially a trading (. ,*,#- 651#."5., .# -51#&&#(!&35 (. , 5 #(.)5 35&) &5,/& ,-85 #&#. ,35' (-51 , 5 used intermittently to defend the status quo or for piecemeal consolidation of interests. Conquest is an inappropriate term to describe the process of acquisition. And it was not as a consequence of military defeat that the M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

,#.#-"51#." , 15#(5gojm855 Colonisation is also a term to be used 1 ,#&385 & (. .#)(-51 , 5, , 65- ..&#(!50 ,35 '/ "5." 5 2 *.#)(5B ( 5*& (. ,-51 , 5) . (5 5."),(5#(5." 5ł -"5) 5." 5 '#(#-., .#)(C85 )-.5 ,#.)(-51")51 (.5.)5 ( # 5 2* . 5.)5 end their days in Britain. India was a place to - %5 0 (./, 5 ( 5.)5*/,-/ 5 5 , ,65, , &35 a place to which to emigrate. If the imperial 0 (./, 5" 5#.-5,)).-5#(5., 65#.-5 /&ŀ&' (.5 manifested itself in bureaucracy. .5." 5" #!".5) 5." 5 $65 )/.5 5.")/- ( 5 Anglo-Indians administered a population ) 5iff5'#&&#)(85ĝ 5 ( # (5 #0#&5 ,0# 5 was perhaps the most efficient and least corrupt in history. There was no shortage ) 5 ,,)! ( 5 ( 5*, $/ # :5 /.5 0).#)(5.)5 /.365- (- 5) 5- ,0# 65, &#!#)/-5.)& , ( 5 and idealism concerning the benefits of their work was abundantly prevalent. It was not lost on some that their mission to inculcate the native population with Enlightenment 0 &/ -5@5), ,65$/-.# 65&# ,.365 ') , 35 ( 5 equality before the law – must lead inevitably .)5 ' ( #* .#)(5 ( 5#( * ( ( 85 )-.5) 5 those joining the Indian Civil Service in the twentieth century believed that their function was to prepare native Indians to take over. Considering independence came nearly - 0 (.353 ,-5 !)65#.5#-5* ," *-5-/,*,#-#(!5 that so much physical evidence of the Raj

survives. The centres of the major cities are -.)(#-"#(!&365 #4 ,, &35 ,#.#-"85 )' 35#-5 perhaps the world’s greatest Gothic Revival .)1(- * 65." 5 & --# &5 , "#. ./, 5) 5 Calcutta can be spoken of in the same breath -5 .5 . ,- /,!65 15 &"#5#-5the ‘new town’ of the twentieth century. It is startling to see so many buildings which seem to have been transported bodily ,)'5 ( " -. ,65 & -!)165 ,#-.)&5),5

)( )(5@5 2 *.5." .5' (35 , 50 ,35'/ "5 #!! ,5." (5." #,5* ,-5#(5 ,#. #(85 2 *.65 &-)65)(5 &)- ,5#(-* .#)(65 *. .#)(-5.)5." 5 climate are evident. Some are designed by major British architects – George Gilbert Scott and Edwin Lutyens among them – but ')-.5 , 5 35& --5 '#&# ,5( ' -65 ,#.#-"7 - 5 competition-winning practices who found a ')' (.5) 5!&),35#(5." 5-/(65 , "#. .-51")5 - ..& 5#(5 ( # 5 ),53 ,-5),5 -65 ( 65 .)1 , -5." 5 ( 65( .#0 5 ( # (5. & (.855 ( )7 , (# 5 , "#. ./, 65 (5 ,# (. &#-.5 "3 ,# 65#-5 5 - #( .#(!5*" ()' ()(85 5 Battle of the Styles raged in Victorian India in parallel with the Gothic-Classical debates back home: to impose our native styles -51)/& 5 (35 )(+/ ,),65*,) & #'#(!5." 5 -/* ,#),#.35) 5 ,#.#-"5 #0#&#- .#)(65),5& !#.#'#- 5 our role as rulers by appropriating Indian styles? There will be much to debate on this tour.

Ĺ‘Ĺ˜Ĺ›ĹŁ95 Ĺ?Ĺ˜Ĺ?ĹĄĹ Ĺ Ĺ?65őŚœŞĹ?ŢŕŚœ5Č˜Č&#x;Č Čœ85 ĹœĹœĹ›Ĺ&#x;Ĺ•Ĺ Ĺ‘65Ĺ Ĺ›Ĺœ95 Ĺ?Ĺ˜Ĺ?ĹĄĹ Ĺ Ĺ?65 śţŚ5 Ĺ?Ĺ˜Ĺ˜65Ĺ?5Ĺ?ĹžĹ?ţŕŚœ5ĹŽĹĽ5 Ĺ‘Ĺ&#x;řśŚĹ?5 śŕœ5Ĺ?85Č˜Č Č?Č—85 ĹœĹœĹ›Ĺ&#x;Ĺ•Ĺ Ĺ‘65ĹŽĹ‘Ĺ˜Ĺ›ĹŁ95ŒŞśř5 ťŞŞż5Ĺ?ĹšĹ?5 Ĺ•Ĺ?Ĺ‘55ĹŽĹĽ5 Ĺ?ĹœĹ 85 őśŞœő5 Ĺ Ĺ—Ĺ•ĹšĹ&#x;śŚ5Č˜Č&#x;ČœČ 8

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Outline Itinerary A detailed description of the itinerary will be available in March 2012. 35g95Ĺ‚35 ,)'5 )( )(5 .",)15.)5 )' 35 B /' #C5 .5 85gf '8 3-5h5.)5k95 )' 385 (5 35k5Ĺ‚35.)5 & /.. 5B )&% . C5 .5 85k8ff*'8 3-5k5.)5o95 & /.. 85 (5 35o5Ĺ‚35 ,)'5 & /.. 5.)5 &"#5 .5 85k8if*'85 3-5o5.)5gi95 &"#85 (5 35gi5Ĺ‚35.)5

)( )(65 ,,#0#(!5 .5 .",)15 85k8if*'8

Practicalities Price: ÂŁ6,220 B *)-#.5tkffC85Äť#-5#( &/ -95 #,5., 0 &5B )()'35 & --C5)(5Ĺ‚#!".-51#."5

.5 #,1 3-95 )( )(5.)5 /' #5B ) #(!5 mmm@iffC65 &"#5.)5 )( )(5B ) #(!5 mmm@iffC:5., 0 &5 35*,#0 . 5 #,7 )( #.#)( 5 ) ":5 )'') .#)(5#(5." 5"). &-5 -5 - ,# 5 &)165 , % -.-65o5&/( " -5 B#( &/ #(!5h5* % 5&/( " -C5 ( 5l5 #(( ,-5 1#."51#( 5),5 ,651 . ,5 ( 5 )Ŀ :5 &&5 '#--#)(-5.)5'/- /'-5 ( 5-#. -:5 &&5.#*-5 ),5 ,#0 ,-65, -. /, (.5-. Ŀ65 ( 5&) &5!/# -:5 #,*),.5. 2 -:5." 5- ,0# 5) 5.1)5& ./, ,-85 Single supplement £840. Price without international flights: £5,430. Hotels.5 /' #5Bj5(#!".-C95 (5# )(# 5 landmark and a masterpiece of Indo , (# 5 , "#. ./, 65 )' ),. & 5 ( 5 (., &&35&) . 85 & /.. 5Bj5(#!".-C95 5&)(!7 -. &#-" 5&/2/,35"). &5 )(0 (# (.&35&) . 5 #(5." 5 #.35 (., 65#'* & 5- ,0# 65*))&5#(5 )/,.3 , 5! , (-85 &"#5Bj5(#!".-C95 .#(!5 .)5 ,&35goff-65#.5, . #(-5 )&)(# &5 " ,'5 ( 5 is ideally situated in the heart of Lutyens’s &"#65 .., .#0 5! , (5 ( 5-1#''#(!5*))&855 David Gilmour is an historian and Fellow of the Royal Society of Literature and a former - , "5 &&)15) 5 2 ), 5 (#0 ,-#.385 5 has been a journalist specialising in current Ŀ #,-5#(5 #,/.65 ( 5'), 5, (.&35 5, 0# 1 ,5 for numerous publications including the #( ( # &5 #' -65 * . .),65 ( * ( (.5 on Sunday and the New York Review of Books. His award-winning biographies include Curzon: Imperial Statesman65 ( 5The Long Recessional: The Imperial Life of Rudyard Kipling. Other work includes The Ruling Caste65 a study of the district officers and political agents who administered the Subcontinent during the reign of Queen Victoria.

M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

Professor Gavin Stamp is an honorary Fellow of both the Royal Incorporation of Architects in Scotland and the Royal Institute of British Architects and honorary ,) --),5) 5." 5 (#0 ,-#.35) 5 & -!)185 5 has been Chairman of the Twentieth Century Society and Director of the Victorian Society Summer School. He taught the history ) 5 , "#. ./, 5 .5." 5 %#(.)-"5 "))&5 ) 5 , "#. ./, 65 & -!)185 /,, (.&35 (5 #( * ( (.5- ")& ,65" 5" -5 5* ,.# /& ,5 #(. , -.5#(5go."75 ( 5hf."7 (.85 ,#.#-"5 architecture and has written about the work ) 5 & 2 ( ,5\ , %]5Äť)'-)(65." 5 #& ,.5 )..5 3( -.35 ( 5 #,5 1#(5 /.3 (-65

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amongst others. He has presented a number of television programmes on architecture and has led many tours.

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Essential India Delhi, Varanasi, Khajuraho, Orchha, Agra not restrict it thematically. Participants are treated to a comprehensive )0 ,0# 15) 5." 5"#-.),35) 5." 5 / )(.#( (.65 ,)'5." 5 ' ,! ( 5) 5 #( /#-'5 ( 5 / "#-'5.)5." 5 &#( 5) 5." 5 /!" &5 '*#, 65." 5 last Islamic power before the British Raj of the nineteenth century.

) . 5)(5." 5 (%-5) 5." 5 (! -65 , ( -#5#-5 ( # ]-5')-.5 sacred place and claims to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in ." 51),& 85 )/( 5 35 ), 5 "#0 65." 5 #.35#-5' (.#)( 5#(5- ,#*./, -5 .#(!5 ,)'5." 5 ,&35 # 5* ,#) 65#(5." 5- )( 5'#&& (#/'5bc. It 1 -5%()1(5 -5 ( "#65." 5 /'#()/-65 /,#(!5." 5&# 5) 5." 5 / " 5 who visited on several occasions on his way to Sarnath nearby where " 5*, " 5"#-5ŀ,-.5- ,')(85 #&!,#'-5-.#&&5ł) %5" , 5.)51 -"5 1 35 their sins in the holy Ganges. The modern Varanasi is also a place of & ,(#(!5 ( 5 /&./, 651#."5." 5ŀ,-.5 #( /5/(#0 ,-#.35#(5 ( # 85 ĝ 5 " ( & -5) 5 " $/, ")5 ( 5." 5 /( & -5) 5 , "" 5 , 5.1)5 $*/.5 & (-5., #(!5&#( ! 5.)5." 5 /( ,5 3( -.35 ,)'5 , ( -#65 a commonly used device to claim political authority. The eleventh (./,35 " ( & -5 /#&.5#(.,# . &35 ,0 5. '*& -5#(5 " $/, ")65 .) 35 & , . 5B ( 5) . (5'#-/( ,-.)) C5 ),5." #,5- (-/ &5 ,0#(!-85 ĝ 35 , 5-/* , 5 2 '*& -5) 5." 5 ! , 5),5(),." ,(5-.3& 5) 5- , 5 , "#. ./, 651#."5#.-5&#( ,5-/ --#)(5) 5" &&-5& #(!5.)5." 5- ( ./'65 .)** 5 35 5 #%" , 65),5')/(. #(7* %5.)1 ,8 Later Bundela Rajputs built impressive palaces and temple-like (). *"-5#(5." 5&/-"5& ( - * 5) 5(),." ,(5 "3 5 , -"85ĝ #,5 palaces bring together elements borrowed from both the Rajput and /!" &5., #.#)(-651"#& 5." #,5 /( , ,35 , "#. ./, 5 -- ,.-5." #,5 dynastic authority. ĝ 5 /#& #(!-5 ( 5 ,.-5) 5." 5 /!" &-5#(5." 5-#2. (."5 ( 5 - 0 (. (."5 (./,# -5 , 5) . (5, ! , 5 -5." 5 * 25) 5 ( # ]-5 ,.#-.# 5 "# 0 ' (.-65 5*, -.#! 5 / 5()5 )/ .5#(5()5-' &&5* ,.5.)5#.-5 -.7%()1(5, *, - (. .#0 65." 5 $5 " &65 5 , .#)(51"# "5")0 ,-5 -)' 1" , 5 .1 (5 , "#. ./, 65$ 1 && ,35 ( 5'3."85 "#. 5' , & 5 #-5.3*# &5) 5." 5& . 5* ,#) 651"#& 5 ,&# ,5 /#& #(!-5 , 5) 5, 5- ( -.)( 5 @5." 5 - ,. 5 *#. &5) 5 % ,5 .5 . "*/,5 #%,#65 ( 5." 5 5 ),.-5) 5 Agra and Delhi. Delhi is among a rare elite of the world’s cities which have been capital of several successive regimes. With most new ruling powers -. &#-"#(!5." #,5" +/ ,. ,-5)(5 5-#. 5 $ (.5.)5#.-5*, --),-65 the architectural legacy ranges from a monumental thirteenth-century '#( , .5.)5." 5' $ -.# 5 2* (-#0 ( --5) 5 /.3 (-]-5 15 &"#85 '*#, 5 -/ -5 '*#, :5 #!". (53 ,-5 . ,5." 5 # ,)35.))%5/*5, -# ( 5#(5 Government House it was handed over to an independent India.

22 February–8 March 2013 (MZ 480) gk5 3-5R5tk6ilf5 Lecturer: Dr Giles Tillotson Includes some of India’s most celebrated sites and also lesser-known but quintessential places. Arrangements for special access a feature.

Itinerary Days 1 & 2: London to Delhi. Fly from London Heathrow at about noon and after a 51/h hour time change reach the hotel in New Delhi c. i8ff '85 , 5'),(#(!65&/( "5#(5." 5"). &85Äť 5- 0 , &35 /.# /&5gk."7 cent. tombs of the Sayyid and Lodi dynasties are located in the serene

) #5 , (-65 &)- 5.)5." 5"). &85 /' 3/(]-5-.,#%#(!5.)' 651#."5#.-5 high-arched faÇ -5- .5#(5 51 && 5! , (65#-5 (5#'*),. (.5 2 '*& 5) 5 ,&35 /!" &5 , "#. ./, 85 0 ,(#!".5 &"#8

Spends more time at the centres visited than most mainstream tours, and free time is allowed for rest or independent exploration. Varanasi, one of the oldest continously inhabited cities in the world, and the most sacred in India; the Hindu temples of Khajuraho; Rajput and Mughal forts, palaces and funerary monuments. No less than seven unesco World Heritage Sites visited.

Day 3: Delhi. #-#.5." 5#'*)-#(!5 5 ),.65 )/( 5#(5glio5/( ,5 " "5 " (85 2+/#-#. 5pietra dura work remains intact in the throne * 0#&#)(85 )! ." ,51#."5." 5 ),.65." 5 '#5 -$# 65 ( # ]-5& ,! -.5 ')-+/ 65 )'#( . -5 & 5 &"#51#."5#.-5'#( , .-5 ( 5 )' -85 # %-" 15 .",)/!"5." 5& 3,#(."#( 5-., .-5( ,5 " ( (#5 ")1%85 . ,5&/( "65 0#-#.5 15 &"#51" , 5 /.3 (-65 % ,5 ( 5)." ,5 ,#.#-"5 , "#. .-5 created a grand city with unique designs. Baker’s Secretariat buildings

The rich and fertile riverine plains of northern India have long formed a corridor allowing migrations and invasions to spread across the Subcontinent. The result is an area of fascinating cultural diversity.

#% 5." 5 (! -5 ( 5." 5 '/( 65." 5- , 5,#0 ,-5) 5 #( /5 &), 65."#-5.)/,5,/(-5.",)/!"5." 5') ,(5-. . 5) 5 .. ,5 , -"5 ( 5 ( #!" )/,#(!5 "3 5 , -"85 /.5." - 5! )7*)&#.# &5 )/( ,# -5 )5 M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

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on the Raisina hill are Classical buildings at first glance but closer attention reveals /!" &5').# -85 / $ .5.)5-* # &5* ,'#--#)(65 it may be possible to visit the manicured gardens and interior of the vast Rashtrapati " 0 (65." 5 ),' ,5 # ,)3]-5, -# ( 85 Overnight Delhi. Day 4: Delhi to Varanasi. Fly from Delhi .)5 , ( -#5 .5 85gf8if '85 . ,5&/( "5#(5 ." 5"). &65 ,#0 5.)5 "#0 & 5 " .5 ),5 51 &%65 visiting the hidden shrines of the old town ( 5 2* ,# ( #(!5." 5 /-35&# 5 &)(!5." 5,#0 ,85 ( -5 .5 - -1 ' " 5 " .65( ' 5 . ,5 the ancient ten horse sacrifice which took place here in mythical time. A boat ride along the Ganges ends with the evening prayer , ')(35B ,.#C65 5,#./ &5!)#(!5 %5.)5." 5 Vedic Age. First of three nights in Varanasi. Day 5: Sarnath, Varanasi. Buddha preached his first sermon at Sarnath and the site remains an active Buddhist centre. The Dhamek stupa in the Deer Park marks the spot where the Buddha sat to preach. The '/- /'5")/- -5." 5i, 7 (.85bc lion capital which has become the symbol of modern India since independence. An afternoon visit to the Bharat & 5 " 0 (65." 5 /(#0 ,-#.35'/- /'65 is followed by a private visit to a contemporary art gallery. Overnight Varanasi.

Day 7: Varanasi to Khajuraho. An early morning boat ride to witness the morning prayers and ablutions of the devout is followed by a walk amongst the sacred temples and ")&35*)( -5) 5." 5-)/."5* ,.5) 5." 5 #.365 near the Assi Ghat. Breakfast on the ghats B-. ** 5 ' (%' (.-C85 &35 .5())(5.)5 " $/, ")85 #,-.5) 5.1)5(#!".-5#(5 " $/, ")85 Day 8: Khajuraho. Visit the spectacular group of temples built during the Chandela $*/.5 3( -.365 ')/-5 ),5." 5 /.# /&&35 carved erotic scenes. The awe-inspiring gg."7 (.85 ( ,#3 5 " 05 '*& 5#-5 )( 5) 5." 5Ĺ€( -.5 2 '*& -5) 5 ),."5 ( # (5 . '*& 5 , "#. ./, 65,# "&35 ' &&#-" 51#."5 - (-/)/-5- /&*./, -85 , 365." 5 ! ' #5 '*& 5 )(. #(-5 2 && (.5 ,0#(!-5) 5 #-"(/85 The Lakshman Temple has attractive female brackets. In the afternoon visit the intricately carved Jain Temple. The Chaturbhuj Temple is unique in its absence of any erotic *# .#)(-85 0 ,(#!".5 " $/, ")8 Day 9: Khajuraho to Orchha. Drive to Orchha. Located close to the Betwa River on , ' .# 5,) %35. ,, #(65 , "" ]-5 ),' ,5!&),35 as capital of the Bundela kings is evident in

." 5'/&.#7 " ' , 5 " (!#,5 " &51#."5 & *#-5& 4/&#5.#& -5 ( 5),( . 5! . 1 3-85Äť 5 $5 " &5* & 5 )(. #(-5-)' 5 /.# /&5'/, &-5 with religious and secular themes. Elegant )3 &5 "" .,#-5B (). *"-C5&#( 5." 5!" .-5) 5 the Betwa. First of two nights in Orchha. Day 10: Orchha. A walk in the old town includes a visit to the Lakshmi Temple whose architecture incorporates fortress elements ( 51")- 5go."7 (.85 , - ) -5 *# .5- ( -5 ) 5." 5gnkm5 /.#(38 The high-ceilinged " ./, "/$5 '*& 5 )&&)1-5 5 ,)--5*& (65 , *, - (.#(!5." 5 )/,7 ,' 5 ,#-"( 85 /( "5 is on the banks of the Betwa before driving the short distance to the towering 18thcent. fort of Barua Sagar which played an #'*),. (.5,)& 5#(5." 5 /.#(385Äť 5, -.5) 5." 5 day is free. Overnight Orchha. Day 11: Datia, Dholpur, Agra. Drive to the little-visited rural town of Datia to see the 17th-cent. palace of the Bundela ruler Bir #(!"5 )85 , 5 /!" &5 ( 5 $*/.5-.3& -5 blend in the decoration of the many-layered residence. Drive to Dholpur for lunch at a former royal residence before continuing to Agra. Take an evening stroll near the Yamuna

Day 6: Jaunpur. Drive to Jaunpur where the ruins of the fort and mosques are striking reminders of its brief importance as an Islamic centre in the 14th and 15th cents. The 16th-cent. Akbari Bridge has magnificent arches that span the Gomati River. Return to Varanasi for some free time. Overnight Varanasi. ĹœĹœĹ›Ĺ&#x;Ĺ•Ĺ Ĺ‘95 Ĺ?ĹĄĹšĹœĹĄĹž5 Ĺ›Ĺ&#x;Ĺ?ĹĄĹ‘5Ĺ?Ĺ’Ĺ Ĺ‘Ĺž5 Ĺ™5 Ĺ?ĹšĹ•Ĺ‘Ĺ˜Ĺ˜85 ŕœŔŠ95 Ĺ•Ĺ—Ĺ?ĹšĹ?ĹžĹ?65 Ĺ—ĹŽĹ?Ĺž]Ĺ&#x;5 Ĺ?ĹĄĹ&#x;Ĺ›Ĺ˜Ĺ‘ĹĄĹ™85

M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

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Ĺ“ĹžĹ?65ŠŔő5 Ĺ?Ĺ–5 Ĺ?Ĺ”Ĺ?Ĺ˜65řŕĹ?7Č˜Č Ĺ Ĺ”7Ĺ?őŚŠťŞż5 őŞřĹ?Ĺš5őŚœŞĹ?ŢŕŚœ85

Essential India

,#0 ,5 ),5 5, 1 , #(!50# 15) 5." 5 $5 " &85 First of three nights in Agra. Day 12: Agra. Rise early to visit the Taj " &5#(5." 5Ĺ€,-.5&#!".5) 5 385 ./,(5.)5 the hotel for breakfast and then visit the ' !(#Ĺ€ (.5 5 ),.85Äť 5 " (!#,#5 " &5 despite its name was built by Akbar and is the best preserved of the palaces built during his reign. Later additions by Shah Jahan include ." 5!&),#)/-5'#,,),7#(& # 5 " -"5 " &5 ( 5." 5 & ! (.5' , & 5 " -5 " &85 , 5 afternoon. Overnight Agra. Day 13: Fatehpur Sikri, Agra. Drive to . "*/,5 #%,#65 5( 15 *#. &5 /#&.5 35 % ,5 BgkmfC5 /.5 ( )( 5 . ,5 5' , 5gk53 ,-85 Äť 51 && 5 #.35) /*# -5 5,# ! 51#."5 2 && (.5 0# 1-85Äť 5* & 5 )'*& 25 )(-#-.-5) 5 5- ,# -5 of courtyards and beautifully wrought red - ( -.)( 5* 0#&#)(-85 (5." 5 #1 (7#7 " -5 (5 intriguing column fuses architectural styles ( 5, &#!#)/-5-3' )&-85 (5, ./,(5.)5 !, 65 0#-#.5." 5 . ' 5/ 5 /& 65 (5 2+/#-#. 5! , (5 .)' 65 ( 5." 5 "#(#5% 5 /4 5 )' 65(). & 5 ),5#.-5.#& 5 2. ,#),85 0 ,(#!".5 !, 85 Day 14: Sikandra, Delhi. Drive to Delhi via % ,]-5' /-)& /'5 .5 #% ( , 65 /#&.5)(5"#-5 ."5#(5glfk85 .5#(5 5., #.#)( &5char-bagh65 #.5" -5()5 (., &5 )' 5/(&#% 5)." ,5 /!" &5 M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

' /-)& 85 (5 &"#650#-#.5." 5 /. 5 #( ,65-#. 5 ) 5." 5Ĺ€,-.5 -& '# 5 #.35) 5 &"#65 -. &#-" 5 #(5ggoi5)(5." 5!,)/( -5) 5 5 . 5 $*/.5 fort. The towering minaret and its mosque survive as testament to the might of the invaders. Overnight Delhi. Day 15: Delhi. &35 ,)'5 &"#5 .5 8gh8if*'5 .)5 )( )(5 .",)165 ,,#0#(!5 8j8if*'85

Practicalities Price: £5,360 B *)-#.5tjkfC85ĝ#-5#( &/ -95 #,5., 0 &5B )()'35 & --C5)(5ł#!".-51#."5 British Airways: return London to Delhi B ) #(!5mjm@jffC5 ( 51#."5 .5 #,1 3-95 &"#5.)5 , ( -#5B ) #(!5mim@nffC65 , ( -#5.)5 " $/, ")5B ) #(!5mim@nffC:5 ., 0 &5 35*,#0 . 5 #,7 )( #.#)( 5 ) ":5 )'') .#)(5 -5 - ,# 5 &)165 , % -.-65gg5&/( " -5B#( &/ #(!5h5* % 5 &/( " -C5 ( 5o5 #(( ,-51#."51#( 5),5 ,65 1 . ,5 ( 5 )Ŀ :5 &&5 '#--#)(-5.)5'/- /'-5 ( 5-#. -:5 &&5.#*-5 ),5 ,#0 ,-65, -. /, (.5-. Ŀ65 ( 5&) &5!/# -:5 #,*),.5. 2 -:5." 5- ,0# 5) 5 a lecturer. Single supplement £760. Price without international flights: £4,670. Hotels85 &"#5Bj5(#!".-C5 .#(!5.)5 ,&35 goff-65#.5, . #(-5 )&)(# &5 " ,'5 ( 5#-5# &&35 situated in the heart of Lutyen’s Delhi. hn

Attractive garden and swimming pool. , ( -#5Bi5(#!".-C5 5& ,! 65 /( .#)( &53 .5 comfortable 4-star hotel with contemporary touches to the recently renovated rooms. It #-5 )(0 (# (.&35&) . 5 &)- 5.)5." 5 (., 65 /.5, ')0 5 ,)'5." 5 /-.& 5#(5#.-5jf7 , -5 ) 5*,#0 . 5! , (651#."5 5*))&85 " $/, ")5 Bh5(#!".-C5 5') ,(5"). &651 &%#(!5 #-. ( 5 ,)'5." 5' #(5-#. 65-/,,)/( 5 35 51 &&7 tended garden. Rooms are spacious and light with large windows overlooking the pool ),5! , (85 , "" 5Bh5(#!".-C5." 5')-.5 -# 5 ) 5." 5"). &-5)(5."#-5.)/,65&) . 50 ,35( ,5 to the main sites. The rooms are adequately equipped and have air conditioning. There #-5 5! , (5 ( 5*))&85 !, 5Bi5(#!".-C95 5 )' ),. & 651 &&7,/(65') ,(5j7-. ,5 &)- 5.)5 the main sites with a spacious internal garden with pool. Lecturer: Dr Giles Tillotson. See page 8. How strenuous? A good level of fitness is essential. See page 5. Average distance by coach per day: 45 miles. Small group:5 .1 (5gf5 ( 5hh5* ,.# #* (.-8 ŕœŔŠ95 Ĺ‘Ĺ˜Ĺ”Ĺ•65ŠśřŎ5Ĺ?Ĺ 5 ĹĄĹ ĹŽ5 Ĺ•ĹšĹ?Ĺž65ţśśĹ?5 őŚœŞĹ?ŢŕŚœ5ŒŞśř5\ ĹšĹ?Ĺ•Ĺ?5Ĺ?ĹšĹ?5 Ĺ Ĺ&#x;5 Ĺ?Ĺ Ĺ•ŢĹ‘5 ŞŕŚĹ?Ĺ‘Ĺ&#x;]5ĹŽĹĽ5 śťŕĹ&#x;5 śťĹ&#x;Ĺ&#x;Ĺ‘Ĺ˜Ĺ‘Ĺ 65Č˜Č&#x;ČžČ?8

w w w. m a r t i n r a n d a l l . c o m


M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

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Martin Randall Travel: all tours 2012 Contact us for full details of any of our tours or visit our website www.martinrandall.com

Historians in Newcastle (my 175)

Brittany (my 258) Caroline Holmes

31– 7

THE RHINE VALLEY MUSIC FESTIVAL

Gardens & Villas of the Italian Lakes (my 218) Steven Desmond

21–28

Granada & Córdoba (my 219) Gijs van Hensbergen

21–30

Classical Greece (my 221) Em. Professor Trevor Bryce

June 2012

March 2012 2– 4

29– 6

19–25

5–12

Palestine (my 172) Dr Felicity Cobbing

22–29

Venetian Palaces (my 176) Dr Michael Douglas-Scott

Courts of Northern Italy (my 222) Dr Fabrizio Nevola

1– 5

6–10

Klimt & Secessionist Vienna (my 267) Dr Diana Silverthorne

23–29

Lucca (my 223) Dr Antonia Whitley

5–10

14–18

Art in Madrid (my 180) Dr Xavier Bray

Palladian Villas (my 269) Dr Michael Douglas-Scott

25–29

14–26

Sicily (my 179) Christopher Newall

Flemish Painting (my 228) Emma Rose Barber

5–16

Walking to Santiago (my 268) Adam Hopkins & Gaby Macphedran

16–22

The Art History of Venice (my 181) Polly Buston

27–29

6– 9

Matisse & his World (my 270) Monica Bohm-Duchen

19–24

Pompeii & Herculaneum (my 194) Angus Haldane

Music weekend, Jesmond Dene The Fitzwilliam String Quartet & Friends (my 224)

29– 5

Opera in Dresden & Leipzig (my 230) Roderick Swanston

8–16

Saxon Transylvania (my 272) Alan Ogden

9–16

Mediaeval Burgundy (my 275) John McNeill

19–26

Granada & Córdoba (my 187) Rose Walker

19–31

Sicily (my 186) Dr Ffiona Gilmore Eaves

20–28

Normans in the South (my 188) John McNeill

23–25

Music weekend, the Castle Hotel The Nash Ensemble (my 191)

23–30

Gastronomic Andalucía (my 197) Gijs van Hensbergen

24–31 31– 4 31–11

30– 5 30– 7

Turner & the Sea (my 225) Dr David Cordingly Walking in Sicily (my 231) Dr Ffiona Gilmore Eaves

9–24

Eastern Turkey (my 286)Rowena Loverance

11–18

The Ring in Budapest (my 287) Barry Millington

11–19

Norway: Art, Architecture, Landscape (my 288) Dr Harry Charrington

13–17

Ravenna & Urbino (my 271) Dr Luca Leoncini

13–21

Baroque & Rococo (my 281) Tom Abbott

14–19

Ardgowan (my 280) Caroline Knight

May 2012 1–11

Transoxiana (my 232) Sue Rollin

The Heart of Italy (my 192) Dr Antonia Whitley

2–15

East Coast Galleries (my 241) Gijs van Hensbergen

Charles Dickens (my 196) Prof. Michael Slater

7–13

Istanbul (my 236) Rowena Loverance

16–23

7–14

Walking in Tuscany (my 237) Dr Antonia Whitley

The Schubertiade with Hill Walking (my 282) Richard Wigmore

16–21

8–17

Sardinia (my 234) Dr Roberto Cobianchi

West Country Gardens (my 284) Amanda Patton

Morocco (my 199) Dr Amira Bennison

April 2012

9–14

Semana Santa in Spain (my 201) Adam Hopkins

Music in Brno & Prague (my 238) Prof. Jan Smaczny

17–23

2– 9

Roman & Mediaeval Provence (my 273) Dr Alexandra Gajewski

11–17

St Petersburg (my 256) Dr Alexey Makhrov

18–25

Courts of Northern Italy (my 278)

3–13

Transoxiana (my 213) Dr Luke Treadwell

12–17

Basilicata (my 240) John McNeill

19–24

9–18

Classical Turkey (my 204) Henry Hurst

13–18

10–15

Palladian Villas (my 206) Dr Joachim Strupp

Stonehenge & Prehistoric Wessex (my 245) Julian Richards

Art in Switzerland (my 276) Dr Alexey Makhrov

20–27

Armenia (my 274) Alan Ogden Great Houses of the East (my 289) Dr Andrew Moore

15–21

Walking & Wine in Lebanon (my 248) Dr Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones

20–28

Essential Jordan (my 205) Dr Felicity Cobbing

20–25

Naples: Art, Antiquities & Opera (my 252) Angus Haldane

21–25

Opera in Paris (my 290) Roderick Swanston

24–30

German Romanesque (my 295)

11–15

Ravenna & Urbino (my 207) Clare Ford-Wille

20–26

Walking Hadrian’s Wall (my 253) Prof. David Breeze

25– 2

The Victorian Achievement (my 296) Christopher Newall

15–20

The History of Impressionism (my 209) Dr Frances Fowle

21–28

The Cotswolds (my 260) Dr Steven Blake

26–29

21–30

Great Houses of the North (my 255) Gail Bent

Country House Opera (my 279) Daniel Snowman

27– 1

23–30

Walking in Cornwall (my 247) Dr Michael Kent

Flemish Painting (my 303) Clare Ford-Wille

28– 5

Danish Art & Design (my 297) Dr Shona Kallestrup

29– 7

Trasimeno Music Festival (my 293) Alan George

10–15

Opera in Spain (my 202) Daniel Snowman

10–18

16–20

In Churchill’s Footsteps (my 211) The Hon. Celia Sandys & Terry Charman

16–22

Genoa & Turin (my 212) Dr Luca Leoncini

16–22

French Gothic (my 214) Matthew Woodworth

26– 1

Art & Music in Dresden (my 265) Dr Jarl Kremeier

16–22

Istanbul (my 226) Jane Taylor

26– 2

16–23

The Veneto (my 216) Dr Michael Douglas-Scott

Gardens of Tuscany (my 259) Dr Katie Campbell

27– 3

Ottoman Turkey (my 264) Sue Rollin

July 2012

17–21

Lisbon Neighbourhoods (my 215) Adam Hopkins

28– 1

West Country Churches (my 263) Dr Cathy Oakes

2– 6

The Battle of Waterloo (my 299) Major Gordon Corrigan

17–24

Modern Art on the Côte d’Azur (my 217) Vivien Hamilton

29– 3

Palladian Villas (my 261) Dr Michael Douglas-Scott

2– 6

Mediaeval Middle England (my 298) John McNeill

M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

30

w w w. m a r t i n r a n d a l l . c o m


5– 9

Verona Opera (my 304) Clare Ford-Wille

16–23

Dürer & Riemenschneider (my 300) Dr Joachim Strupp

Courts of Northern Italy (mz 360) Dr Michael Douglas-Scott

15–22

7–13

Walking in Tuscany (mz 402) Dr Joachim Strupp

16–23

Andalucía (mz 403) Adam Hopkins

Opera at Aix (my 308) Prof. Richard Langham-Smith

The Heart of Italy (mz 375) Dr Helen Langdon

15–25

8–12

16–20

Writers’ Florence (mz 397) Jonathan Keates

16–22

St Petersburg (mz 362) Dr Alexey Makhrov

16–23

Modern Art on the Côte d’Azur (mz 401) Monica Bohm-Duchen

16–25

Israel & Palestine (mz 411) Dr Garth Gilmour

9–16

North Wales (my 307) Peter Cattermole & Neil Johnstone

17–23

History of Medicine (mz 361) Prof. Helen King

9–21

The Baltic States (my 305) Neil Taylor

17–24

Bohemia (mz 378) Michael Ivory

14–20

Dürer & Riemenschneider (my 311) Dr Joachim Strupp

17–24

Walking the Thames Valley (mz 379) Dr Paul Atterbury

17–21

Leonardo da Vinci (mz 404) Charles Nicholl

20–28

Mitteldeutschland (my 313) Dr Jarl Kremeier

17–26

Castile & León (mz 363) Dr Tom Nickson

21–28

20–26

Gardens & Villas of the Italian Lakes (mz 371) Steven Desmond

Villas of the Veneto (mz 408) Dr Michael Douglas-Scott

22–28

Berlin, Potsdam, Dresden (mz 370) Dr Jarl Kremeier

Genoa & Turin (mz 412) Dr Luca Leoncini

23– 5

21–29

Saxon Transylvania (mz 374) Bronwen Riley

The Indian Mutiny (mz 407) Patrick Mercer MP

24–28

Writers’ Venice (mz 410) Gregory Dowling

24–28

Art in Madrid (mz 409) Gail Turner

Drottningholm & Confidencen Contact us to register your interest

August 2012

21–28

2– 6

Verona Opera (my 324) Dr Roberto Cobianchi

24–28

11–17

Salzburg Summer Festival (my 325) Prof. Jan Smaczny

THE DIVINE OFFICE: A Choral Festival in Oxford

24–28

16–20

Torre del Lago (my 337) Daniel Snowman

In Churchill’s Footsteps (mz 358) The Hon. Celia Sandys & Terry Charman

16–24

Baroque & Rococo (my 335) Dr Joachim Strupp

24– 1

Cave Art of France (mz 382) Dr Paul Bahn

24– 2

17–23

Walking the Danube (my 332) Richard Wigmore

Walking on Samos & Chios (mz 386) Contact us to register your interest

November 2012

24– 5

Ancient Egypt (mz 383) Dr Angus Graham

4– 9

ROME: A FESTIVAL OF MUSIC

17–24

THE DANUBE MUSIC FESTIVAL

24– 6

Sicily (mz 377) Christopher Newall

6–10

Valencia (mz 426) Adam Hopkins

20– 1

The Baltic States (my 340) Neil Taylor

25–30

6–11

23–27

Verona Opera (my 344) Dr Luca Leoncini

Palladian Villas (mz 390) Dr Fabrizio Nevola

Venice Revisited (mz 423) Dr Luca Leoncini

28– 4

The Victorian Achievement (my 346) Dr Paul Atterbury

25– 1

Connoisseur’s Prague (mz 380) Contact us to register your interest

12–18

Florence (mz 427) Dr Roberto Cobianchi

13–17

Venetian Palaces (mz 428) Dr Michael Douglas-Scott

18–24

Palermo Rediscovered (mz 424) Christopher Newall

19–25

Florence Revisited (mz 430) Dr Joachim Strupp

23–25

Music weekend, the Castle Hotel The Schubert Ensemble Contact us to register your interest

31–12

The Road to Santiago (my 349) John McNeill Opera in Pesaro Contact us to register your interest

26– 4

The Heart of Portugal (mz 384) Adam Hopkins

29– 8

Classical Greece (mz 385) Henry Hurst

Opera in Cardiff Contact us to register your interest Parma Verdi Festival Contact us to register your interest

October 2012 September 2012

2– 8

Beethoven in Bonn (mz 414) Prof. Barry Cooper

1–12

Frank Lloyd Wright (mz 350) Dr Harry Charrington

3– 7

2– 7

The History of Impressionism (mz 357) Dr Chloe Johnson

Ravenna & Urbino (mz 387) Dr Luca Leoncini

4– 9

Ancient Rome (mz 386) Angus Haldane

Gaudí & the Guggenheim (mz 354) Gijs van Hensbergen

6–12

Gastronomic Piedmont (mz 396) Marc Millon

3– 9

Istanbul (mz 367) Jane Taylor

6–14

4–10

Villas & Gardens of Campagna Romana (mz 356) Dr Joachim Strupp

Rabat, Fez, Marrakech (mz 418) Contact us to register your interest

8–17

Classical Turkey (mz 389)

4–10

The Schubertiade (mz 372) Richard Stokes

9–14

4–11

Great Houses of the South West (mz 366) Anthony Lambert

Palladian Villas (mz 392) Dr Joachim Strupp

9–15

Walking & Wine in Lebanon (mz 399)

Rajput & Mughal Rajasthan

4–14

Transoxiana (mz 364) Dr Luke Treadwell

9–15

Essential India

7–10

Poets & the Somme (mz 359) Andrew Spooner

Toulouse & Albi (mz 395) Dr Alexandra Gajewski

9–17

Essential Jordan (mz 393) Jane Taylor

February 2013

7–18

Walking to Santiago (mz 352) Adam Hopkins & Gaby Macphedran

9–17

Normans in the South (mz 394)

1–14

10–15

Pompeii & Herculaneum (mz 419) Angus Haldane

13–21

Sinai (mz 405) Nicole Douek

14–21

Dark Age Brilliance (mz 400) John McNeill

15–20

Pompeii & Herculaneum (mz 421) Dr Ffiona Gilmore Eaves

15–22

Walking in Sicily (mz 413) Christoper Newall

15–22

Gastronomic Spain (mz 398) Gijs van Hensbergen

3– 9

8–17

Classical Greece (mz 368) Dr Andrew Farrington

9–15

Walking Hadrian’s Wall (mz 351) Prof. Richard Hingley

10–16

Lucca (mz 353) Dr Antonia Whitley

10–17

The Cotswolds (mz 373) Dr Steven Blake

11–20

Sardinia (mz 365) Dr Roberto Cobianchi

13–19

Music in the Saxon Hills (mz 355) David Vickers & Tom Abbott

M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

31

December 2012 We will run about ten Christmas and New Year tours. Details will be available in the summer of 2012. Contact us to register your interest.

January 2013 14–26

Temples of Tamil Nadu (mz 450) Prof. Adam Hardy

Kingdoms of the Deccan (mz 470) John M. Fritz The British Raj Bengal by River

March 2013 1–14

Ashoka & Buddhist India (mz 485)

Te l e p h o n e 0 2 0 8 7 4 2 3 3 5 5


Making a booking

More about the tours and our policies continued from page 5

Roads are improving rapidly, and we only use air-conditioned coaches. Standards of speed and comfort on trains do not compare with Europe but the experience provides both scenic interest and contact with the real India.

Private tours. We would be happy to discuss the possibility of versions of these tours for groups of friends and family or for societies and affinity groups. However, for the time being we would only do so were the tour to be accompanied by one of our lecturers.

Hotels and restaurants We select our hotels with great care. Nearly all have been stayed in, not merely inspected, by one or more members of our staff. Many others have been seen and rejected. The importance we attach to charm, character, location and warmth of welcome might count against the most prestigious establishments. Outside the principal cities, the hotels we use are usually the best in the area. Many of the hotels we have selected are as good as or better than ones we use in Europe and the Middle East. But because some of our tours travel to parts where few mainstream tourists go, not all of them are top category. All, however, have en suite bathrooms and are adequately comfortable and clean. Single supplement. Most hotels in India operate the system whereby there is a charge for the room irrespective of the number of occupants. Single travellers are therefore effectively charged double. To mitigate this unfairness, we subsidise solo travellers by charging less for the single occupancy supplement than the hotel charges us. As with hotels, we choose restaurants with care though often there is not much choice. Many restaurants offer a choice of Indian or international menus.

Tailoring the package We can provide a tour without the international flights, allowing you to make your own arrangements for travel to India. A price for this is given in each tour description. Please ask if you would like to travel to India in advance of the tour or to return later. It would usually be possible to make the required arrangements. For any change to the package there would be an administration fee of £40 in addition to any extra costs.

M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

Weather and clothing We choose dates for tours which avoid periods of extreme weather. However, even in winter (November to April), most of India can be quite hot. For most days on most of the tours you would not need a top over a shirt. On the other hand, in northern India it can be quite cool, especially at night and in the early morning. Information about weather and guidance concerning dress specific to each tour is given to clients upon booking.

Small groups and congenial company We strictly limit the numbers on the tours. The maximum is 20 or 22, as specified in the tour description, though some may run with fewer. The higher costs of smaller numbers are outweighed by the benefits of manoeuvrability, social cohesion and access to the lecturer. Not the least attractive aspect of travelling with MRT is that you are highly likely to find yourself in congenial company, self-selected by common interests and endorsement of the company’s ethos.

Care for our clients We aim for faultless administration from your first encounter with us to the end of the holiday, and beyond. Personal service is a feature. And if anything does go wrong, we will put it right or compensate appropriately. We want you to come back again and again – as most of our clients do. We never forget our clients are responsible adults, deserving of respect and courtesy at all times.

Illustrations on page 35 and back cover: fruit market, from ‘India’ by Mortimer Menpes, 1905; the Red Fort at Agra, 19thcent. watercolour.

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1. Provisional booking We recommend that you contact us first to make a provisional booking which we will hold for one week. To confirm it please send the booking form and deposit within this period.

2. Definite booking Fill in the booking form and send it to us with the deposit (specified in the price paragraph of the tour description). It is important that you read the Booking Conditions at this stage, and that you sign the booking form. Full payment is required if you are booking within ten weeks of departure.

3. Our confirmation Upon receipt of the booking form and deposit we shall send you confirmation of your booking. After this your deposit is non-returnable except in the special circumstances mentioned in the Booking Conditions. Further details of the tour will also be sent at this stage.

Financial security ATOL. Tours in this brochure are protected by the ATOL scheme because we hold an Air Travel Organiser’s Licence granted by the Civil Aviation Authority. This means that in the unlikely event of our insolvency, the CAA will ensure that you are not stranded abroad and will arrange to refund any money you have paid to us for an advance booking. If you opt out of international flights bought through us, the tour is similarly protected by the AITO Trust.

The Association of Independent Tour Operators. Martin Randall Travel is a member of AITO, an association of specialist travel companies most of which are independent and ownermanaged. Admission is selective, and members are subject to a code of practice which prescribes high standards of professionalism and customer care. To contact the Association visit www.aito.co.uk or call 020 8744 9280.

w w w. m a r t i n r a n d a l l . c o m


Booking form

NAME OF TOUR

DATES

TRAVELLERS’ NAMES Give your name as you would like it to appear on documents issued to other tour participants – in block capitals please.

ROOM TYPE – please tick your preference. Twin 2 beds

TOUR CODE

Double 1 bed

Single occupancy

1

2

YOUR DETAILS – in block capitals please Address

If ticking for a double-occupancy room, please bear in mind that you may not get your chosen room-type as some hotels have limited numbers of each type of bedroom.

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS – please tick. Group No International International Flights Flights

Traveller 1 Postcode Traveller 2 Telephone (home) FURTHER INFORMATION or special requests, including flight upgrades. Please also specify any dietary requirements here.

Telephone (work) Mobile Fax number Email Please tick if you do NOT want to receive updates on our range of cultural tours and music festivals by email.

YOUR NEXT OF KIN or contact in case of emergency.

Please tick if you do NOT want to receive any more of our brochures.

Name Address

Occupation, present/former (optional – our curiosity only)

Traveller 1 Traveller 2

Postcode Telephone Relationship


Booking form PASSPORT DETAILS. Essential for airlines and in case of emergency on tour. Title

Surname

Nationality

First Names

1 2 Date of Birth (DD/MM/YY)

Place of Birth

Passport Number

Place of Issue

Date of Issue Date of Expiry (DD/MM/YY) (DD/MM/YY)

1 2

FELLOW TRAVELLER If you have made a booking for someone who does not have the same address as yourself, please give their details here. We shall then send correspondence and documents directly to them. If you would also like the invoice to be sent to the fellow traveller's address, please tick:

PAYMENT EITHER Deposit(s) deposits are per person

ÂŁ

OR Full Payment

ÂŁ

Full payment is required if you are booking within ten weeks of departure. We prefer payment by cheque, debit card or bank transfer. Although we can accept payment by credit card.

Name

CHEQUE. Please make cheques payable to Martin Randall Travel Ltd, and write the tour code on the back (eg mz123).

Address

DEBIT OR CREDIT CARD. I wish to pay by Visa, Mastercard or Amex. Please charge my card.

Card no. Start date Postcode Telephone Email

Expiry date

BANK TRANSFER. Please give your surname and tour code (eg mz123) as a reference and allow for all bank charges. Account name: Martin Randall Travel Ltd Royal Bank of Scotland, Drummonds, 49 Charing Cross, London SW1A 2DX Account number 0019 6050 Sort code 16-00-38 IBAN: GB71 RBOS 1600 3800 1960 50; Swift/BIC: RBOS GB2L Please tick here if you have paid by bank transfer:

Next of kin Name Relationship Telephone

I have read and agree to the Booking Conditions on behalf of all listed on this form.

Signature Date

M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L 5085

A RT R A R C H I T E C T U R E R G A S T R O N O M Y R A R C H A E O L O G Y R H I S T O R Y R M U S I C

Voysey House, Barley Mow Passage, London, United Kingdom W4 4GF Telephone 020 8742 3355 Fax 020 8742 7766 info@martinrandall.co.uk www.martinrandall.com


Booking Conditions

You need to sign your assent to these booking conditions on the booking form.

Our promises to you We aim to be fair, reasonable and sympathetic in all our dealings with clients, and to act always with integrity. We will meet all our legal and regulatory responsibilities, often going beyond the minimum obligations. We aim to provide full and accurate information about our holidays. If there are changes, we will tell you promptly. If something does go wrong, we will try to put it right. Our overriding aim is to ensure that every client is satisfied with our services.

All we ask of you We ask that you read the information we send to you.

Specific terms Our contract with you From the time we receive your signed booking form and initial payment, a contract exists between you and Martin Randall Travel Ltd. Eligibility We reserve the right to refuse to accept a booking without necessarily giving a reason. You need to have a level of fitness which would not spoil other participants’ enjoyment of the holiday by slowing them down – see the ‘How strenuous?’ guidance at the end of every tour description and the entry on page 5 of this brochure. With this in mind, we do not accept bookings from anyone who would be aged 81 or over at the time of the tour. Insurance It is a requirement of booking that you have adequate holiday insurance. Cover for medical treatment, repatriation, loss of property and cancellation charges must be included. Insurance can be obtained from most insurance companies, banks, travel agencies and (in the UK) many retail outlets including post offices. Passports and visas British citizens and most other foreign nationals must have valid passports and a visa for travel to India. The passport needs to be valid for six months beyond the date of the tour with at least two blank pages. We will advise UK citizens about obtaining visas. Nationals of other countries should ascertain procedures for obtaining visas in their case. M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L

If you cancel If you have to cancel your participation on a tour, there would be a charge which varies according to the period of notice you give. Up to 57 days before the tour the deposit only is forfeited. Thereafter a percentage of the total cost of the tour will be due: between 56 and 29 days: between 28 and 15 days: between 14 days and 3 days: within 48 hours:

40% 60% 80% 100%

We take as the day of cancellation that on which we receive written confirmation of cancellation. If we cancel the tour We might decide to cancel a tour if at any time up to eight weeks before there were insufficient bookings for it to be viable. We would refund everything you had paid to us. We might also cancel a tour if hostilities, civil unrest, natural disaster or other circumstances amounting to force majeure affect the region to which the tour was due to go. Safety and security If the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises against travel to places visited on a tour, we would cancel the tour or adjust the itinerary to avoid the risky area. In the event of cancellation before the tour commenced we would give you a full refund. We would also treat sympathetically a wish to withdraw from a tour to a troubled region even if the FCO does not advise against travel there.

Consumer protection Holidays in this brochure are protected by the ATOL scheme because we hold an Air Travel Organiser’s Licence granted by the Civil Aviation Authority. This means that in the unlikely event of our insolvency, the CAA will ensure that you are not stranded abroad and will arrange to refund any money you have paid to us for an advance booking. Holidays which do not include flights are similarly protected by the AITO Trust. The limits of our liabilities As principal, we accept responsibility for all ingredients of a tour, except those in which the principle of force majeure prevails. Our obligations and responsibilities are also limited where international conventions apply in respect of air, sea or rail carriers, including the Warsaw Convention and its various updates. If we make changes Circumstances might arise which prevent us from operating a tour exactly as advertised. We would try to devise a satisfactory alternative, but if the change represents a significant loss to the tour we would offer compensation. If you decide to cancel because the alternative we offer is not acceptable we would give a full refund. English Law These conditions form part of your contract with Martin Randall Travel Ltd and are governed by English law. All proceedings shall be within the exclusive jurisdiction of the courts of England and Wales.

Right: after a painting by Mortimer Mempes published in ‘India’ 1905. Back cover: the Red Fort at Agra, Indian watercolour, probably early 20th-century.

Please read these

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Te l e p h o n e 0 2 0 8 7 4 2 3 3 5 5


M A RT I N R A N D A L L T R AV E L M U S I C R 5 A R T R A R C H I T E C T U R E R A R C H A E O L O G Y R H I S T O R Y R L I T E R AT U R E

Voysey House, Barley Mow Passage, London, United Kingdom W4 4GF Telephone 020 8742 3355 Fax 020 8742 7766 info@martinrandall.co.uk From Australia and New Zealand you can contact: Martin Randall Marketing, PO Box 537, Toowong, Queensland 4066 Telephone 1300 55 95 95 Fom New Zealand +61 7 3377 0141 Fax 07 3377 0142 anz@martinrandall.com.au From Canada you can contact: Telephone 647 382 1644 Fax 416 925 2670 canada@martinrandall.ca From the USA there is a toll-free telephone number: 1 800 988 6168

www.martinrandall.com

5085


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