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Chania History Cretan Nutrition Gramvousa island
Samaria Gorge Chania town map Crete Map
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CONTENTS
Booklet 6
Welcome to Chania
7 - 17 Chania History 18 - 19 Samaria Gorge 23
Agioi Theodoroi Island
24 - 30 Cretan Nutrition 34
Cretan Knives History
38 - 43 Monasteries of Chania
Map
46 - 47 Museums 52
Chania town map
Chania Central Market
Crete Map
54 - 55 Venizelos Graves 59
Gramvousa island & Balos Lagoon
Information
62 - 63 Souda bay & Aptera fortress
E-paths
64-65
Refuges
War Cemeteries
Chania Beaches The most southerly part of Europe : Gavdos Island
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Welcome to Chania
Chania is the second largest city of Crete.It lies along the north coast of the island, about 70 km west of Rethymno and 145 km west of Heraklion. The official population of the municipal unit is 53,910, while the municipality has 108,642 inhabitants. This consists of the city of Chania and several other towns and villages. Chania is the site of the Minoan settlement the Greeks called Kydonia, Greek for quince. Some notable archaeological evidence for the existence of this Minoan city below some parts of today's Chania was found by excavation in the district of Kasteli in the Old Town. This area appears to have been inhabited since the Neolithic era. The city reemerged after the end of the Minoan period as an important city-state in Classical Greece, one whose domain extended from Chania Bay to the feet of the White Mountains. The first major wave of settlers from mainland Greece was by the Dorian Greeks who came around 1100 BC. Kydonia was constantly at war with other Cretan city-states such as Aptera, Phalasarna and Polyrrinia and was important enough for the Kydonians to be mentioned in Homer's Odyssey (iii.330). In 69 BC, the Roman consul Caecilius Metellus defeated the Cretans and conquered Kydonia to which he granted the privileges of an independent city-state. Kydonia reserved the right to mint its own coins until the third century AD. A lot of beauties and sightsee waiting to explore them ‌ Page 6
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Byzantine Era The early Christian period under Byzantine rule (First Byzantine Period, 395–824 AD) and the rule of the Arabs, who called the settlement Al Hanim ("the Inn"), are not well documented. Under the Arabs, the Christian population was persecuted and moved to the mountains. The Byzantine Empire retook the city in 961 AD (Second Byzantine Period, until 1204 AD). In this period the Arabic name of the city was changed into Greek Chania. Byzantines began to strongly fortify the city in order to prevent another Arab invasion, using materials from the ancient buildings of the area. By this time Chania was the seat of a bishop.
The Venetian era lighthous lighth lig hthous ouse usee
The jewel of the city, is one of the oldest light houses, not only in Greece and the Mediterranean, but also in the world. The lighthouse is a major attraction in the old port of Chania especially at night when it's lit up. The tower is 21m high and is built on a stone base, located at the end of the old harbor’s pier opposite to the fortress of "Firkas". Visitors are not allowed to enter the tower. Chania lighthouse was first constructed by the Venetians around 1595 - 1601, and it took its final form, in the shape of a minaret, during the Egyptian Period (1831 - 1841) in around 1839. After the latest restoration, completed in 2006, it was given the formation of the Venetian period. The minaret look is still evident however. The tower is divided in three diverse parts: the base is octagonal, the middle part has sixteen sides, and the third part is circular. The construction material of the base is of the same origin and quality of the material used for the fortification of the city of Chania by the Venetians.
In 1864, the h lilighthouse hh was assigned to the French Company of Ottoman Lighthouses, and during the final years of the Turkish occupation the staircase of the east side was constructed, in the entrance of the lighthouse tower. Recent renovations include the octagonal watch house with the small dome, and the water pipes under the base of the lighthouse. The lighthouse is not operational today.
lighthouse
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Firkas Fortress In the east and west there are remains of the old Venetian walls. They covered a length of 5 km and were strengthened in the 16th century. The fortress Firkas stands at the entrance of the harbor and was intended to protect the entrance here. This fortress dates from the time of Turkish occupation and was rebuilt on the foundations of the old Venetian fortress that was built there in 1629. On this spot the Turks held the Greek rebels in prison. Today the Maritime Museum is located at Fort Firkas.
Venetian shipyards After the Fourth Crusade (1204) and the fall of Byzantium in the Hellenic area, Crete was given to Bonifacio, Marquess of Montferrat. He in turn chose to sell it to the Venetians for 100 silver marks. In 1252 the Venetians managed to subdue the Cretans but in 1263, their rivals of Genoa, with local support, seized the city under the leadership of Enrico Pescatore, count of Malta, and held it until 1285,when the Venetians returned. Chania was chosen as the seat of the Rector (Administrator General) of the region and flourished as a significant commercial centre of a fertile agricultural region. The Venetian rule was initially strict and oppressive but slowly the relations between the two parts improved. Contact with Venice led to close intertwining of Cretan and Venetian cultures, without, however, the Cretans losing their Greek Orthodox nature. The city's name became La Canea and fortifications were strengthened, giving Chania the form that it still has today. On the other hand, after the fall of Constantinople in 1453, many priests, monks and artists took refuge in Crete and reinforced the Byzantine religion and culture on the island. The city of Chania during the period that followed was a blend of Byzantine, Venetian, and Classical Greek cultural elements. Many of the important buildings of the town were built during this era and the intellectual activities (written word, music, education) were also promoted. Page 8
Ottoman Era The janissaries or Hassan Pasha Mosque, sometimes also simply called "Yiali Tzami mosque", meaning: the mosque along the shores of the sea. It stands in the port of Chania and dates from 1654
However, the walls did not prevent the Ottoman army from overrunning the city in 1645 after just two months' siege. The Ottomans landed near the Monastery of Gonia in Kissamos, which they plundered and burn. They seized Chania itself on 2 August 1645. Huge numbers died in the siege, particularly Turks. The Ottoman commander was executed on returning home for losing up to 40,000 men. Later, most churches were turned into mosques. The Turks resided mainly in the eastern quarters, Kastelli and Splantzia, where they converted the Dominican church of St Nicholas into the central Sovereign's Mosque (Turkish: Hünkar Camısı). They also built new mosques such as the Küçük Hasan Pasha Mosque|Küçük Hasan or Yali Mosque on the harbour. Public baths (hamam), and fountains were a feature of the Turkish city. The pasha of Crete resided in Chania. In 1821, as Greeks rose against the Ottoman Empire, there were conflicts between Greeks and Turks in Chania, leading to casualties from both sides, most of whom were Muslims.[citation needed] The Bishop of Kissamos, Melhisedek Despotakis, was hanged from a tree in Splantzia for participation in the revolutionary events. In 1878, the Pact of Halepa was signed. This was when a big part of the local Muslim population was killed or moved to Turkey. There was no Muslim population left before the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1922. Page 10
Modern era
Eleftherios Venizelos (1864–1936), major political figure of 20th century European scene, was born in Chania. In 1898, during the final moves towards independence and enosis - union with Greece - the Great Powers made Chania the capital of the semi-autonomous Cretan State ("Kritiki Politeia"), with Prince George of Greece, the High Commissioner of Crete living here. During these years Crete issued its own stamps and money. This was a very important transitional period when, no longer an isolated vilayet of the Ottoman Empire, the city became more cosmopolitan and flourishing, regaining its role as the crossroad of civilizations, influenced by Europe as well as by the East. Many important buildings were built during this era, intellectual and artistic societies were created and a new class of local aristocracy brought a different atmosphere to the everyday life of the town. The district of Halepa has many fine neoclassical embassies and consulates dating from this period. However the main goal was enosis with Greece which came after Venizelos's constant opposition to Prince George's rule over Crete. The series of conflicts includes the Therisos revolt in 1905, which overthrew Prince George and brought Alexandros Zaimis to rule Crete. Finally in 1908 Venizelos managed to establish a revolutionary government, recognized by the Great Powers. His later election as the prime minister of Greece (1910) was the last step before Crete was united with Greece on 1 December 1913. The Greek flag was raised for the first time at Fort Firca in the Old Harbour in the presence of Eleftherios Venizelos and King Constantine. Eleftherios Venizelos, who hailed from Mournies near Chania, was the leader of the 1896-97 uprising against Ottoman rule and went on to be Prime Minister of Greece and a great statesman. His tomb is on a hill overlooking Chania (Profitis Ilias, Page 12
Chania in World War II
Another important period for the city of Chania was the invasion and occupation by German forces during World War II. The British force that faced the German paratroopers during the Battle Of Crete in 1941 had artillery elements overthe hill of Dexameni in the south of the city. These elements bombed the German forces in the Maleme airfield undetected, until they ran out of ammunition. George II of Greece stayed in a villa near the village of Perivolia outside Chania before escaping to Egypt. Part of the city was bombed and a significant proportion of the area's population was either executed or imprisoned due to participation in the resistance against the German rule. The Jewish community of Chania was also eliminated during the German occupation. Most of them were transported off the island by the Nazi occupiers in 1944. Tragically a British torpedo sank the ship Tanais, which was carrying most of the Jewish prisoners.
Cityscape The city of Chania can be divided in two parts: the old town and the modern city which is the larger one. The old town is situated next to the old harbor and is the matrix around which the whole urban area was developed. It used to be surrounded by the old Venetian fortifications that started to be built in 1538; of them the eastern and western parts have survived. From the south, the old town is continuous with the new, and from the north the physical border is the sea. The centre of the modern city is the area extending next to the old town and especially towards the south.
The OLD TOWN
Despite being heavily bombed during World War II, Chania's Old Town is considered the most beautiful urban district on Crete, especially the crumbling Venetian harbor. The borders of the Old Town are the mostly destroyed old Venetian wall (and bulwarks) and this has been the cradle of all the civilizations which were developed in the area. The central part of the old town is named Kasteli and has been inhabited since Neolithic times. It is located on a small hill right next to the seafront and has always been the ideal place for a settlement due to its secure position, its location next to the harbor and its proximity to the fertile valley in the south. Nowadays it is a bit quieter than the neighboring areas of the west part of the district. The Splantzia quarter (next to the east part of Kasteli) is also largely untouched and very atmospheric. A plan for its future development is now under consideration.The city of Chania was slowly regaining its normal pace of development during the 1950s, trying to overcome the difficulties that the war had left as an aftermath. During the 1970s Crete became a major tourist destination for Greek and international tourists, something that gave a significant boost to the city's economy and affected the everyday life and the overall culture of the locals. The capital of Crete was moved to Heraklion in 1971. Chania and the rest of the island of Crete, unlike the mainland of Greece, are not suffering from the economic crisis, as the local economy is based on agricultural products such as olive oil. The city of Chania lies around 40 km from the west end of Crete. By road, the distance is approximately 52 km Page 17
SAMARIA GORGE The Samaria Gorge is a National Park of Greece on the island of Crete - a major tourist attraction of the island - and a World's Biosphere Reserve.The gorge is in southwest Crete in the regional unit of Chania. It was created by a small river running between the White Mountains (Lefka Ori) and Mt. Volakias. There are a number of other gorges in the White Mountains. While some say that the gorge is 18 km long, this distance refers to the distance between the settlement of Omalos on the northern side of the plateau and the village of Agia Roumeli. In fact, the gorge is 16 km long, starting at an altitude of 1,250 m at the northern entrance, and ending at the shores of the Libyan Sea in Agia Roumeli. The walk through Samaria National Park is 13 km long, but one has to walk another three kilometers to Agia Roumeli from the park exit, making the hike 16 km long. The most famous part of the gorge is the stretch known as the Gates (or, albeit incorrectly, as "Iron Gates"), where the sides of the gorge close in to a width of only four meters and soar up to a height of almost 300 meters. The gorge became a national park in 1962, particularly as a refuge for the rare kri-kri (Cretan goat), which is largely restricted to the park and an island just off the shore of Agia Marina. There are several other endemic species in the gorge and surrounding area, as well as many other species of flowers and birds. The village of Samaria lies just inside the gorge. It was finally abandoned by the last remaining inhabitants in 1962 to make way for the park. The village and the gorge take their names from the village's ancient church, Ossia Maria. A must for visitors to Crete is to complete the walk down the gorge from the Omalos plateau to Agia Roumeli on the Libyan Sea, at which point tourists sail to the nearby village of Sougia or Hora Sfakion, where they could spend a night there, or they could catch a coach back to Chania. Page 18
SAMARIA GORGE The walk takes five to seven hours and can be strenuous, especially at the peak of summer. Local tourist operators provide organized tours to the Gorge. These include bus transportation from one's hotel to the entrance (near Omalos village), and a bus connection that will be waiting for hikers after they disembark the ferry in Sougia or Sfakia (Chora Sfakion). If you are on your own, you can make a one-day round trip from Chania (see below) or from Sougia or Paleochora. Note that the morning buses from Sougia and Paleochora do not operate on Sunday. The ferries leave Agia Roumeli to Chora Sfakion (eastbound) and to Sougia / Paleochora (westbound) at 17:00. There also exists a "lazy way" - from Agia Roumeli to the Gates, and back.
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Agioi Theodoroi Agioi Theodoroi are two uninhabited islets off the coast of western Crete. One is named Agios Theodoros, also called Thodorou, and the islet a few metres further north is called Mikros Agios Theodoros ("Little Agios Theodoros") administratively, they are part of the municipality of Platanias, in Chania regional unit. Kri-kri inhabit Agios Theodoros.
National park In 1930 the municipality of Agia Marina with the cooperation of the hunting association of Chania decided to make the islands a nature reserve. It was in 1935 that Theodoros Viglis caught one male and two female Kri-kri in Samaria Gorge and released them on Agios Theodoros so that they could breed with integrity since no other goats inhabited the island. This initial small community of Kri-kri was too small to prevent inbreeding and more Kri-kri were introduced to the community. The isolated community of Kri-kri at Agios Theodoros has been used to provide Kri-kri to zoos around the world.
History In 1583 the Venetians built two small fortresses on Agios Theodoros in part to prevent pirates from using the islands and in part to defend the coast of Crete. Page Page 23 19
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CRETAN NUTRITION
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The Cretan food and diet is considered today to be the ideal diet which ensures good health and long life. In the 1950s, the international scientific community discovered how healthy Crete people were and concluded it was due to their diet. Today it is generally agreed that people who live on Crete and eat according to the traditional ways have less chance of suffering from heart disease, even when compared to other Mediterranean countries. The main differences are that Cretans typically eat twice as much fruit as other Europeans, a quarter less meat and more pulses. Cretan food is different from other types of cuisine because it does not try to mix flavors, even though various ingredients are used to make daily dishes. Each ingredient retains its identity and taste as part of the gastronomical composition. This then means that no ingredient blurs the flavor of another. Food is important on Crete: it’s simple, basic, without over spicing. In areas where animals are bred, such as the mountainous regions in Chania, dairy products play an important role in the food. Pies filled with myzithra (a cheese made from ewes milk), meat and yoghurt dishes provide wonderful variations of staple food. Ecologically minded, Cretans traditionally cook only what is in season and waste nothing, preserving crops, meat and fish for the winter months. The Cretan diet has ancient roots which can be traced back to the Minoan civilization more than 3,000 years ago. It has survived the influences of the many colonizing forces over the millennia the Romans, the Byzantine empire, the Venetians and the Turks; preserving the islands culinary traditions to be enjoyed by modern lovers of fine, healthy cuisine. Back in classical Crete meat eating was rare and often allied to religious rituals. It is notable that in the modern Cretan diet, meat consumption is still far less than other Mediterranean countries.
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CRETAN NUTRITION
Furthermore, it is no surprise that olive oil plays a key part in Crete's healthy cuisine with the fertile island soils providing an ideal medium for growing bumper crops of this vital food. More than 35 million olive trees are cultivated on Crete not only do they cover the needs of the inhabitants, but large quantities are exported abroad. Even in traditional Cretan sweets, only extra-virgin olive oil is used. Oil is also great for frying, as it can resist high temperatures much more than other oils so it doesn't become oxidized and remains healthy. It can also be re-used up to five or six times for frying.
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Olive oil is universally recognized for its health-giving benefits and is used widely in cooking and often liberally poured over salads in fact everything! A slice of freshly baked whole meal bread liberally drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with oregano and salt is a delicious Cretan snack. Bread has always been important to Crete no meal can be imagined without it in some shape. There has always been a great variety of breads, according to the season and depending on the different feasts. Page 26
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Amongst some of the typical dishes are snails, (cochli) scalded in salt water for a meze or fried and then slowly simmered in vinegar and seasoned with rosemary. Meat dishes include rabbit which has often been the savior of the Cretan following poverty and famine caused by various conquerors over the years. Served in the traditional stifado stewed with tiny onions, fried or roasted with potatoes in the oven, it has a special place in the Cretan history. Mutton, lamb and kid or goat are meat also eaten, particularly on festive occasions. Cooked with fennel or artichokes, with wild mountain greens (horta) and tomatoes or an egg and lemon sauce they are delectable and make a celebration something special. Another Cretan specialty, often served as an accompaniment to meat and rice is staka. This is one example of a less healthy Cretan foodstuff, but a delicious treat. Staka is simply the cream of butter (tsipa) which is carefully collected from the shepherd, then a little salt is added and it is kept in a cool place until required. Traditionally it was a common dish at christenings and weddings where it was added to the gamopilafo the wedding pilaf of rice and meat. Of all the fish dishes, the prince of Cretan waters is the skaros, described by the Ancient Greeks as the parrot fish. This fish has white, firm flesh, crispy skin and aromatic innards. Typically, Skaros is grilled and then eaten whole and is best caught early in the morning, before it feeds, so that it has an empty stomach and you won’t be eating sand. Kakavia, or fish soup, is another specialty, traditionally scorpion fish was used, Simmered with potatoes, onions and lots of lemon and olive oil it is a truly delicious dish. Page 28
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CRETAN NUTRITION The best known Cretan cheeses are Graviera, which is the most popular hard cheese and tastes (and sounds like) Gruyere. There are many different types so it is always best to taste a little before buying. Myzithra is made from ewe’s milk although it is also made from goat’s milk or a mixture of both. Often used in cooking as well as eaten fresh. Myzitra is the cheese that is mixed with lamb and cooked wrapped in pastry, meat pie... Kaltsounia are other small pies which are filled with unsalted myzithra and then fried in oil. The final cheese of note is Anthotiros translated this means flower cheese made in the springtime when the pastures where the sheep graze are full of flowers. It is a mild, soft cheese with some similarity to mozzarella. Desserts are not usually part of the Cretan diet, a meal will often finish with fruit. A sweet treat found all through the year is kserotigana, strips of dough wound into coils and deep fried before dunking in heavy, honey-based syrup and sprinkled with chopped walnuts. Food is often accompanied by local Cretan wine found all over the island or raki or tsikoudia. Tsikoudia is a strong aperitif made from the distillation of the skins left over from pressing grapes. The whole of Greece has been an expert producer of wine for thousands of years. The Ancient Greeks considered wine as such an important part of their lives that they created myths about it and divinities to worship, such as Dionysus, god of fertility, wine and theatre. Crete has played an important part in this history and the island has some of the most traditional vineyards in Europe with many old grape varieties, some of which can be traced back thousands of years to the Minoans. Page 30
Cretan Knives History The typical Cretan knife, the way it has been retained up to now, was born at the end of 18th century and it has the shape of a shuttle. Its original shape was enthusiastically adopted by the Cretans and remained through time. Fire, anvil, steel, hammer, pliers with long arms and the skills of the knife maker are the main elements for the manufacture of the Cretan knife. Its blade is thick and flat, thicker in its base and is sharpened on the one only side. Its shape is straight, a bit curved at the end with a slightly upwards tip. The length of the blade varies. In the middle of 19th century the Cretan manufacturers made quite big knives with length of 80cms.These knives could be used as swords with big penetrating ability.
The parts of the knife are Nails, Chain, Hangings (fringes) with coins, Tongs of fire tongs, Loop, Case, Blade and others. They were famous because of their hull and Roque shape. Firstly they were referred to the knife's decoration in the middle of its blade. Later on, it continued as a "T" shape. According to its shape over the years got a variety of names.
The handle-grab of the Cretan knife
The handle-grab of the knife is called "Manika" and is of different shapes. The dominant types are three. The type of bird bead shape, 18th-19th century navy cutlass grab and the -V- shape grab which is the prevalent one up to date. This unique handle is always made of animal horns or bones while the most luxurious one is from ivory. In many cases the ivory is replaced by white bone taken from calf legs which are processed for hours before use. Rarely did the knives have darker handles as knife makers eventually used the local goat horn known as Kri-Kri. The strongest and most resistant are the horns of the ram. The softest and brightest are the buffalo ones. They are called "Mauromanika".One horn is used for each handle. Page 34
Chania Monasteries & Churches Among the numerous churches one is worth visiting at the old town, the Cathedral of Chania, a 13th century church that is strongly connected to the historical events of Chania as it was used as a place of refugee. It is dedicated on the three saints, the Presentation of the Virgin Mary, Saint Nikolas and to the three Hierarchs.
Mitropolis cathedral Mitropolis cathedral is located on a square in the busy Halidon Street (a shopping street in the center of Chania). This is the main street of the center, which runs directly to the port. The Mitropolis church is the seat of the Archbishop. This church dates from the late 19th century and is built by a Muslim that wanted to thank the Holy Virgin Mary in this way for curing his son. Almost diagonally opposite the Mitropolis church you will find the Archaeological Museum of Chania.
Agios Nikolaos Church Agios Nikolaos Church was originally a monastery church and a part of monastery that dates from the 13th century. During the occupation of Crete by the Ottoman Turks the church was converted to the Sultan Ibrahim mosque and a minaret was added. The clock tower on the other side of the building was built after the liberation and the Greek independence (1912). Agios Nikolaos church is set on a pleasant plaza with outdoor cafes where you can sit down for a drink
Roman Catholic Church The Roman Catholic Church in Chania meets in the town center at Halidon 46, the road that leads from 1866 Square down to the harbor front, in a beautiful building just set back from the main frontage. Page 38
Chania Monasteries & Churches
Monastery of Agia Triadal
The monastery of Agia Triada of Tzagarolon is one of the richest and most beautiful monasteries in Crete. It is built near the airport of Chania, 15km east of the city. The monastery was built by the Venetian nobles Jeremiah and Lawrence Tzagarolo. Today, after the numerous historical adventures, the monastery continues to play an important role in the religious and economic life of Crete.
Kyria ton Aggelon Monastery in Gouverneto Gouverneto or Gderneto Monastery is located 19km east of Chania, on the north side of the Cape Akrotiri of Chania, near the monastery of Agia Triada Tzagarolon. It can be accessed through the Agia Triada, where there is a sign leading to the Gouverneto. The church of the monastery is dedicated to Virgin Mary, so it is also called Kyria ton Agelon. (Monastery - Lady of the Angels)
Monastery of Agios Ioannis Pazinos The monastery of St. John the Merciful (Agios Ioannis Eleimon) is located very close to Chania airport, south of the village Pazinos or Gagalado. The monastery, which operated as a dependency of Gouverneto monastery was fortified and its walls are preserved in excellent condition. Page 39
Chania Monasteries & Churches
Monastery of Agios Ioannis Prodromos
The monastery of Timios Prodromos is located in Korakies of Akrotiri. It is a historical woman's cloth monastery that is known to local people as the monastery of nuns. The monastery was destroyed many times by the different conquerors of Crete and thus the valuable files that could help for the precise dating of the monastery were lost.
Monastery of Odigitria Gonia
Monastery of Agios Georgios
The Monastery of Saint George in Karydi (in Apokoronas Province) is located about 2km east of Vamos village. The monastery was abandoned for many years but was restored in 1996 and today it is operating normally. The monastery is the unique of Apokoronas province and is the most interesting monument of folk architecture in the prefecture of Chania, very famous for its old olive factory.
Monastery of Panagia Odigitria is located at the base of the peninsula Spatha, about 26km west of Chania and 2.5km north of Kolimbari. It was founded at this position in the 17th century and soon flourished as a rich monastic tradition was developed in Spatha and the monks soon gathered in Gonia. Gonia Monastery played an important role in local history.
Monastery Agia Triada
The Sinai dependency of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) is located between Perivolia and Mournies suburbs of Chania and is one of the 4 independent monasteries of Sinai Saint Catherine Monastery in Crete. The Monastery of the Holy Trinity was founded during the Second Byzantine Period (before 1204) and had a rural character, as evidenced by Monastery Chrysopigi Chrysopigi monastery is located 3km the monastery (olive mill, warehouse south of Chania city. Its temple belongs to for products, etc). the architecture Mount Athos triconch with dome and is dedicated to the Panagia Zoodochos Pigi. Page 42
Chania Monasteries & Churches monastery Agia Kyriaki
Monastery of Agia Kyriaki is located 12km south of Chania, near Varypetro. In 1992 the monastery was a set of ruins, but since then it has been restored and now it is a scenic monastery of Crete. The monastery is a dependency of the female monastery of Chrysopigi near Chania and is located in a wonderful area with a beautiful protected grove, a small canyon with a river and several cavernous churches accessible through stone paved trails.
MonasterY Parthenos The monastery of Parthenos is a modern nunnery dedicated to Life Giving Spring. It was founded in 1905 and was renovated in 1962. Here operated the Urban School of Girls and the first Deaf school in Crete.
Monastery Megisti Lavra The monastery complex, a dependency of the monastery of Megisti Lavra at Athos, has been declared a historical monument. It consists of neoclassical buildings that surround the one-aisled temple that was reconstructed in the 19th century. The complex consists of cells and rooms for storing crops. Its existence is described by the Venetians.
Monastery of Panagia Chrisoskalitissa The monastery of Panagia Chrisoskalitissa is located 72km south of Chania, very close to the magnificent lagoon of Elafonissi. It operates as a nunnery and reminds of a fortress, perched on a 35m high rock with boundless sea views. The name of the monastery means in Greek is.. Lady Gold-stepped
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MUSEUMS of CHANIA
ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM of CHANIA
It is situated at 21 Halidon Street and is housed in the temple of St. Francisco’s. The exhibition area consists of two main areas. In the first half of the exhibition area, we see finds of the post-Neolithic era and those of the copper era. In the second half at the far end of the hall, antiquities of the historical era are displayed. The tour starts from the left to right as you walk into the museum.
MEDITERRANEAN ARCHITECTURAL CENTER This beautiful building was restored in 2002 and hosts the Mediterranean Architectural Centre. This Venetian building, which started being built at the end of the 15th century was completed in 1600, has linked it's presence with the history of the city of Chania. During its long life it has gone through different phases and has had several functions. It has been the school of the Christian community in the years of the Turkish domination, the municipal hospital in 1923 and the City Hall from 1928 until 1941. In 1941 it was bombed by the Germans and since then it remained the most beautiful ruin of the town, according to its citizens, up to its recent restoration.
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MUSEUMS of CHANIA THE WAR MUSEUM The War Museum of Chania is to be found at Sfakianaki / Tzanakaki Street, beside the Municipal Garden. Admittance is free. It is open daily between 9.00 and 13.00 hrs, except Sundays and Mondays. Stratigou Tzanakaki, Chania
FOLKLORE MUSEUM It is situated at 46B Halidon Street in the Arcade of the Catholic Church. It is a private museum that offers a vivid picture of life on the island during the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries; you can see high-quality craftsmanship in lace, ornamental covers and embroidery. Open all year round, 10:30 - 13:00 & 18:30- 21:30
MUNICIPAL ART GALLERY 3 Halidon Str., Old Harbour
HOUSE of EL. VENIZELOS Istorical House of El. Venizelos is located at Mournies Kydonias, Chania
NAVAL MUSEUM On the site of Firkas is the naval museum of Chania. You can see nautical maps, engravings, and representations of ships.
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Central Market Chania Municipal Market is located in the center of Chania, in the heart of the city, where the main bastion of the fortifications stood in Venetian times. Up to the late 19th century this was the edge of town. There were rough butchers’, fishmongers’ and grocers’ shops, inns, etc. In modern terms, this was the farmers’ street market, where villagers brought their goods for sale. The city market was not a pretty sight, so in 1908 the Municipality of Chania decided to improve the area by building a covered municipal market. Building work began in 1911, according to the plans of local engineer Drandakis, modelled on the covered market of Marseille. The Municipal Market was built on the site of the Venetian platform bastion. Of course a large section of the Venetian walls had to be demolished in order to modernize and develop the city. Measures for the protection of the Byzantine and Venetian fortifications were not implemented until much later, in the 1960s. The Municipal Market was opened by Eleftherios Venizelos in 1913. It is in the shape of a cross and has four doors, one to each arm, which are shut to secure the shops housed here. The market has 76 shops, including butchers’ shops, fishmongers’, general stores, a chemist’s, etc. It is an architectural jewel of Chania and one of the most impressive covered markets in the Balkans. Exactly opposite the Municipal Market is the Kydon Hotel. Until the last century, this was the site of the famous London Bar, where the sailors of the Great Powers came during the time of the Cretan State to amuse themselves with European artistes. Those who have read Kazantzakis’ Zorba the Greek will recognize the name of Madame Hortense. In her youth, this famous artiste was the first to put on a spectacular striptease show right here, at the turn of the 20th century. In the summer it is often a little too crowded with tourists and is best visited early in the morning.
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The market is open Monday to Saturday from 8.00 am to 2.00 pm and Tuesday, Thursday and Friday evening from 5.30 to 9.00 pm. Some of the stores are open all day long.
VENIZELOS GRAVES At the magical and historical location of Profitis Ilias, in Akrotiri, at the east of Chania lays the tomb of Eleftherios Venizelos. Eleftherios Venizelos himself had designated this position to be his resting place before his death.
(1864- 1936)
For the visitor, it affords a panoramic view of the rich green plain of Chania, the imposing White Mountains, the Cretan Sea, the town of Chania and the Chalepa quarter which is the location of the house in which the great politician spent most of his life and today is the headquarters of the National Research Foundation 'Eleftherios K. Venizelos'. At a short distance to the south of the grave is the place where the Greek flag was raised during the last revolution of Crete against the Turks (1897), led by Eleftherios Venizelos. Great events of the revolution took place here, most importantly was the bombing of the revolutionary camp by the European fleet, the shooting down of the Greek flag and its re-establishment by a revolutionary named Kagiales When the flag fell the fighters broke down in tears. At that point a cry went up among them: “The flag! Raise the flag!� The heroic freedom fighter Kagiales rushed into the heat of the battle and took the fallen flag in his hands and standing tall and proud on a rock he raised it high against replacing the broken flagpole with his human body, while other fighters were ready to take his place if the fell. The crews on the Greek vessels began to shout while the Italian and French sailors, deeply moved by the enthusiasm of the Greeks, began to applaud incessantly.
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VENIZELOS GRAVES
The bombardments stopped with the ruins of the church of the Prophet Elijah, which had been demolished by a Russian cannonball, still smoking away. (It is worth noting that 15 days later a cannonball exploded on the same ship which killed many Russian sailors and officers. Three years before he died, Eleftherios Venizelos (1864- 1936), who was one of the most long-standing prime ministers of Greece and whose political life was focused on doubling the size of Greek territory and on the creation of a contemporary State, gave a speech in Parliament, an extract of which has been engraved on his tomb: ".... Dear friends, the hereby deceased was a real man, with great courage and confidence, both in himself and in the people he was called to govern. Perhaps he made many mistakes, but never was he lacking in courage and never was he a fatalist because he never expected fate to determine his county's development.
In the exhibition space one can find folk art items and traditional Cretan products.
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On the contrary, he exploited all the fire he had inside him, all his spiritual and physical strength ..." In the area of today’s church offices, in 1897 was located the village coffee shop. Also, here is an Exhibition hall with traditional local handy crafts. Penincula’s Revolutionary Camp in 1897 Sofoklis Venizelos Tomb (18941964) Sofoklis Venizelos, the son of Eleftherios Venizelos and also prime minister of Greece, was laid to rest in a grave next to that of his father’s.
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Imeri and Agria Gramvousa In 1583 the Venetians built two small fortresses on Agios Theodoros in part to prevent pirates from usin Gramvousa also Grampousa refers to two small uninhabited islands off the coast of north-western Crete in the regional unit of Chania. They are administered from the municipality of Kissamos. the islands and in part to defend the coast of Crete. Imeri Gramvousa which translates to Tame Gramvousa, hosts the remains of a Venetian fort and the remains of buildings left behind by Cretan insurgents, who were compelled to live as pirates, during the Greek War of Independence. Today, Imeri Gramvousa is a popular tourist attraction.Agria Gramvousa, which translates to Wild Gramvousa, is much less hospitable and is located due north of Imeri Gramvousa.
Balos Lagoon Fittingly, for an island that has accommodated pirates, there is a lagoon, named the Balos lagoon, between the island and the coast of Crete. There is an islet which forms part of a cape, through the lagoon, called Cap Tigani (which means "frying pan" ). North of Balos, at the Korykon cape, are the ruins of the small ancient Roman city of Agnion, with a temple to the god Apollo. Balos Is great beach, has white sand, soft seabed and crystal water. Balos is reached through a track road from Kaliviani, a village close to Kissamos. Is about 10 km and can be crossed by a 4-wheel car. Otherwise, visitors can go by excursion boat from Kissamos , Public bus have every hour to Kissamos Page 59
SOUDA BAY The port of Souda is one of the most important natural harbours of the Mediterranean. According to mythology, there had been a musical contest over the bay of Souda between the Muses and the Sirens, in which the Muses prevailed. The Sirens then lost their wings, which fell on the bay and formed the Lefkes Isles while the nearby ancient town was named Aptera (without wings). During the Venetian domination (1210-1645) the Islet of Souda played a fundamental role in the protection of the Bay of Souda, which was of strategic importance. The Castle on the island was constructed according to the plans of the famous Italian architects Morette Calabrese and Sforza Pallavicini and was completed during the second half of the 16th century. The Islet was fortified with a wall and ramparts while internally all the necessary renovations were made for protection. During the Turkish domination over Crete, from 1645 to 1669, the island remains in the hands of the Venetians and the people of Crete until 1715, when it was submitted under a treaty. Later on, it was used as a fortress and a military fortification while today it is practically useless from the view of the army. The island is surrounded by strikingly built walls and bastions at every point where an attack is possible by sea or by land. We enter through an impressive entrance on the northern side. The town of Souda was built 130 years ago. Today, one can visit the Turkish settlements that still exist, the fish harbor of Kato Souda on which you can find fresh fish and seafood in picturesque restaurants but most of all you can visit the Allen’s Cemetery of Vlites Souda. Souda is the largest natural harbour of the Mediterranean Sea. Page 62
APTERA CastLE
The old town Aptera used to be one of the most important city-states of Western Crete. Its name was derived either from the royal founder of Aptera or Ptera or because of a contest that took place between the Muses and the Sirens during which the Sirens were defeated and threw their wings away so they became wingless and white and fell into the sea and thus the island Lefkae came about in the Gulf of Souda. In the ancient town that was founded in the 7th century B.C. and was inhabited right through to Byzantine times, we can see important ruins, like the enclosure of the walls with large multi-angled stones, a small theatre (the cavity, the orchestra pit and remains of seats can be seen) large, impressive domed reservoirs, one of which is very well preserved and divided into three sections. There is also a small temple dating back to the beginning of the 1st century B.C. probably of the Goddess Dimitra. It used to be a naval and commercial town. It had been autonomous during the entire Hellenic period (6th-4th century B.C.) and cut many coins. It sent assistance to the Spartans during the Second Messinian war (668 B.C.) and during the civil war of the Cretan towns (220 B.C.) it was an ally to Knossos. After which and together with another thirty Cretan towns it formed an alliance with the King of Pergamos – Eumenis (197-159 B.C.). Aptera also existed during the first Christian centuries. In the same area, there is the Monastery of St John Theologos of Patmos. South of the monastery, a floor has been found from a Christian temple of the 7th or 8th century A.D. with Christian graves underneath. On the western tip, there is a Turkish fortress that has been renovated with a panoramic view of the Gulf of Souda. On the southern part of ancient Aptera there is another Turkish fortress, built in 1872 by Reouf Pasha who called it Itjedin
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German War Cemetery in Maleme
More than 15000 German soldiers lost their lives during the Second World War in the Greek territory. The German military cemetery in Maleme (Deutschen Soldatenfriedhof in Maleme) is one of the two cemeteries in Greece where the graves of German soldiers are. The German cemetery is near Maleme airport on the north coast of Crete, 20 km western of Chania city and one kilometer above the village of Maleme. From here one can see far into the deep blue bay of Chania. Towards the west olive orchards line the hillsides all the way down to the winding Tavronitis river. Far beyond one can see the outline of the Monastery of Gonia. In the south the “White Mountains” Range rises up to 2.450 m. The basic idea of the memorial was to design the graveyard for the fallen soldiers according to the four main battle grounds of Maleme, Chania, Rethymnon and Heraklion. The cemetery was founded in 1974 by the former German commander Gericke. At this area are buried 4.465 German soldiers who lost their lives in the island of Crete most of them were paratroopers who died during the invasion. The care of the cemetery is done by the “The German Graves Commission” (Volksbund Deutsche Kriegsgräberfürsorge eV), a private association based in Kassel, ordered by the German government. The association has taken care of such cemeteries across the world. How to get there: Take the national road from Chania to Kissamos and follow the signs to Maleme-Tavronitis. Page 64
British Cemetery in Souda
In May 1941, the Commonwealth force in Crete was organised in five widely separated defense areas along the north coast - around the three airfields at Iraklion, Rethymnon and Maleme, and at Souda Bay and the port of Chania. The Germans launched their attack on 20 May with airborne troops. The airfield at Maleme was quickly captured and used for landing German reinforcements. On 23 May, the remainder of the Maleme position had to be given up and its defenders fell back to Chania. On 26 May, the Allied line west of Chania was broken. Souda Bay became indefensible and the troops from these two positions, with the remainder of the Maleme garrison, withdrew across the island to Sfakion, where many of them were evacuated by sea on the nights of the 28 - 31 May. The airborne attacks on the Iraklion and Rethymnon positions on 20 May were repulsed. Iraklion was successfully defended until the night of 29 May when the garrison was evacuated by sea. Orders for the Rethymnon garrison to fight its way southward for evacuation did not arrive, and it was overwhelmed on 31 May. Of the total Commonwealth and force of 32,000 men, 18,000 were evacuated, 12,000 were taken prisoner and 2,000 were killed. The site of Souda Bay War Cemetery was chosen after the war and graves were moved there by 21st and 22nd Australian War Graves Units from the four burial grounds that had been established by the German occupying forces at Chania, Iraklion, Rethymnon and Galata, and from isolated sites and civilian cemeteries. There are now 1,500 Commonwealth servicemen of the Second World War buried or commemorated in the cemetery. 776 of the burials are unidentified but special memorials commemorate a number of casualties believed to be buried among them. The cemetery also contains 19 First World War burials brought in from Suda Bay Consular Cemetery, 1 being unidentified. There are also 7 burials of other nationalities and 37 non-war burials.
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