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M a s t e r t e c h m a g . c o m

O n l i n e

P u b l i c a t i o n

Another Mystery Solved: Tooth Fairy t Doing Domestic J2534 Reflashing t Turbochargers, Part 1: The Rise of the Machines t Hybrid Components & Hybrid Model Updates, Part One t Unitized Wheel Bearing Diagnosis t Voltage Drop Testing t Bleeding ABS t Counterfeit Parts: The Facts on Fakes t Lift Safety and Productivity

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Volume 3 / Issue 1 / April 2009

Master Technician

Contents

Feature Stories 8

Bleeding ABS

by Wade Nelson

“But I’ve been bleeding brakes for decades” just doesn’t cut it anymore. This is a complex subject, and seriously important. Be sure you know what you’re dealing with —take the time to look it up.

14

Counterfeit Parts: The Facts on Fakes

by Tom Nash

The counterfeiting of auto parts is a huge menace that must be crushed. Here’s how to avoid what could be a nasty mess for you and your customers.

24 Are You Ready for the Hybrid Highway

by Tom Nash

The number of hybrid vehicles on the road is rapidly growing. As they emerge from the umbrella of manufacturer warranties, they’ll begin to make their way into your service bays.

46

Lift Safety and Productivity

by Wade Nelson

Lifting a vehicle is the most dangerous part of your job, and you do it every day. Never forget that.

Cover Story

38 Turbochargers, Pt1: The Rise of the Machines

by Greg McConiga

he last wave arrived in the ,80s, but that was T nothing compared to what,s coming soon.

Contents

Feature Stories 54 Doing Domestic J2534 Reflashing

by Phil Fournier

ur man Phil gives us the most handsO on, real-deal info on this important topic we’ve ever seen. Nobody else even comes close.

62 Voltage Drop Testing

by Wade Nelson

eah, you’ve heard it before, Y but we take a different approach.

Christopher M. Ayers, Jr. President/Publisher cayers@cmacomm.com

Bob Freudenberger Editor bfreud@cmacomm.com John Anello • Steve Campbell • Paul Cortes Kerry Jonsson • Phil Fournier • Chip Keen Greg McGoniga Tony Molla • Tom Nash Henry Olsen • Dave Russ Contributing Editors bfreud@cmacomm.com

Joann Turner Circulation Manager jturner@cmacomm.com

68 Unitized Wheel Bearing Diagnosis

by Greg McConiga

Is it a CV, the diff, or a bearing?

Kyle Ayers Web Master kayers@cmacomm.com

Christopher Ayers III Art Director ayersc3@cmacomm.com

74 Another Mystery Solved: Tooth Fairy

by John Anello

3.4L with a dental deficiency A after major surgery.

82 Choosing and Using A/C Compressor Oil

by Bob Freudenberger

ver since we went from mineral E oil to synthetics, this has been a controversial subject.

Departments 6 Editor’s Page: IMHO

By Bob Freudenberger

Observation and Celebration

73 ASE News: Professional Credentials for Tough Times

4

By Tony Molla

hen you’re part of the ASE family, W you’re associated with some of the best technicians in the industry.

MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

NFocus List Consultant

Editorial, Circulation, Advertising Sales and Business Office: Master Technician Magazine 598 Pine Point Drive Akron, OH 44333 P.330.666.9886 F.330.666.8912 If you have a letter to the editor, a Tech Tip or story idea, click here: bfreud@cmacomm.com, or on this website at www.mastertechmag.com.

During 2009, Master Technician will be published five times: April, May, July, September and November by CmA Communications, LLC. The publisher and editors of this magazine accept no responsibility for statements made herein by advertisers or for the opinions expressed by authors of bylined articles or contributed text.

The online version of Master Technician magazine is free to qualified automotive repair shop owners, managers and technicians. All other content on www.mastertechmag.com is available on a subscription basis for $240.00 per year.

Editor’s Page

IMHO (In My Humble Opinion)

by Bob Freudenberger

Observation and Celebration When I first got into automotive publishing (remember Mechanix Illustrated? I was “Tom Tappet”), I read somewhere that in 1955 there were 52 cars per mechanic in the U.S. How far we’ve come.

According to the best numbers I’ve been able to find, today there are over 245 million registered vehicles, and something like one million working technicians (400,000 or so hold ASE certifications). Do the math.

But there’s more to the story. In 1970, we as a people drove just over a trillion miles, but now we do almost three times that.

That tells me that cars are way better than they used to be. No more plugs, points, and condenser every spring and fall, tires go a lot longer than 10,000 miles, front end parts often last the life of the car, and when did you do your last ring and valve job?

So, does this mean the days of the professional auto service technician are numbered? Will cars become like disposable appliances that just keep on working until the day their owners decide it’s time for something new? I don’t believe so, at least not for a long, long time.

First, vehicles simply won’t last hundreds of thousands of miles without proper maintenance. For years, I’ve been saying that shops can’t sit around waiting for something to break. They’ve got to promote regular maintenance services. Not only LOFs, trans flushes, and coolant exchange, but also brake and power steering fluid changes. Then there’s whatever might be included in the anachronisticallynamed “tune-up,” from plug changes to intake tract cleaning. This will provide lots of employment far into the future.

Second, there are a few services where cars seem to be needier than they were in the past. Think about brakes, for example. In my recent experience, air conditioning and cooling systems appear to be growth areas, too.

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MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

Third, new cars are so expensive, people tend to hang on to their old ones for as long as possible.

According to R. L. Polk & Co., the median age of passenger cars in operation increased to 9.4 years in 2008, a record high. No matter how great designs, materials and lubrication have become, something’s got to give sooner or later. Water and fuel pumps come to mind.

Finally, horrible accessibility problems in most modern vehicles and the vastly increased price of parts mean that when a repair is eventually required, the ticket will likely be big enough to pay the skilled tech needed to perform it enough to keep him or her interested in this profession.

This adds up to what may seem a counter-intuitive prediction from the Bureau of Labor Statistics: There’ll be a shortage of technicians through 2010 of at least 35,000 per year. It’s my opinion that this doesn’t mean a shortage of people willing to work on cars, but of true technicians with real skill. Like you.

Now for the celebration part. We’re blessed to have at least a dozen of the best people in automotive tech publishing on our editorial team. Names you know, such as Greg McConiga, Phil Fournier, John Anello, Chip Keen and Tom Nash, and some relatively new ones, such as Kerry Jonnson and Paul Cortes. To a man, we’re all deeply rooted in auto service with a couple of centuries of hand-on experience among us.

We know how to provide you with truly helpful, realworld information that’s often actually fun to read. I don’t think any other publication can boast of such a great group of contributors. From the entire staff of Master Technician ONLINE, we thank you for your continued interest. It’s great to be back!

Hooray for me, hooray for you.

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Pro Series Timing Kits also come with a limited warranty identical to the original car manufacturer specified timing belt change interval. Just another reason to ask your Parts Supplier or a CRP representative for a complete list of applications today.

For more information, visit www.proserieskit.com © 2008 CRP Industries Inc. All rights reserved.

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B

ack in the day, it was easy to determine if a vehicle’s brakes needed to be bled. If the pedal “pumped up,” getting firmer on every stroke, the brake hydraulics had air in them. A pedal that gradually sank to the floor indicated a bypassing master cylinder, or an external leak. The unmistakable smell of brake fluid, or feeling your heel squish into a soggy carpet meant it was time to rebuild the master cylinder. No more. Today, you’ll need more than a fleet-footed assistant to properly bleed most ABS-equipped vehicles. You’ll need bleeding information specific to that particular ABS, for starters.

Oh No, Back in School…

During this test, the ABS/ASR was shut off. Not a pretty picture. You wouldn’t want to inadvertently disable this system, would you?

Take this short quiz to test your ABS bleeding knowledge: 1.

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I f the master cylinder is accidentally allowed to run out of fluid while bleeding or replacing a wheel cylinder, then the ABS unit will need to be bled. True or false?

MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

2. In order to completely flush all of the old brake fluid out of an ABS-equipped hydraulic system, a bi-directional scan tool is required. True or false?

7. Metering and/or proportioning valves get bled automatically when you bleed the rear brakes on most trucks. True or false?

8. A factory scan tool is required to bleed most ABS units. True or false?

Answers 1. False. Yes, we can hear Master Technician readers nationwide screaming in disagreement. Read on.

According to one brake industry expert, “If the Whether flushing as master cylinder level is [ever] allowed to drop below maintenance, or just bleeding as the bottom of the reservoir, the ABS system bleed must part of a reline or other service, be performed with a bi-directional scan tool.” will this kind of set-up do the job? Another question you need If the master cylinder reservoir is ever allowed to run dry, will air to have answered. find its way into the ABS unit?

3. Replacing a master cylinder requires bleeding the ABS. True or false?

If you’ve got to open the system up for any reason whatsoever, do you need to bleed? If so, how?

4. A high, hard pedal on a test drive means no further bleeding is necessary. True or false?

5. Every ABS stores brake fluid at pressures of 2,0003,000 psi, which must be relieved before opening the reservoir or other lines. True or false?

6. Performing several ABS-engaging stops will bleed any residual air out of the ABS. True or false?

Yet, according to Paul Mercurio, Technical Marketing Manager at Robert Bosch, on his company’s ABS/TCS/ ESC systems, “In regards to the bleeding of our systems, a complex procedure using a scan tool is not necessary for field service … if the master cylinder is accidentally allowed to run dry because a caliper line is left hanging, fluid may run out of the HU primary circuit, but not out of the secondary circuit.

“The HU secondary circuit is where the fluid normally flows during ABS pressure reduction or Electronic Stability Control acti ve pressure builds.

This secondary circuit is isolated from the HU primary circuit by normally closed valves. Therefore, fluid will not drain out of this circuit even if the entire HU primary circuit is drained.”

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Bleeding ABS But what about other ABS makes? Do you have to bleed the control unit after a master cylinder has accidentally been run dry? A quick search of several manufacturers’ websites, along with Alldata, showed few, if any, answers to this “Million Dollar Question.”

Most technical information sites concerned themselves only with bleeding brakes when everything went according to plan.

Jay Buckley, the Bendix Brake “Answerman,” offers this helpful advice: “There is a simple trick to prevent this from happening when changing calipers: Partially depress the brake pedal and use a stick or pedal depressor to hold it in place. Then change the caliper.

Remove the stick and bleed the caliper. With the compensator port in the master cylinder sealed off, it can’t drain out.”

Think about all the places air might be trapped inside that ABS. Or, not.

A vehicle might “feel” just fine, but require extra distance to stop if not properly bled because an ABS unit containing air will have to cycle several times to compress the air trapped inside before additional braking force can start being applied to the wheel cylinders. Many accidents could be avoided by a matter of a few feet. So don’t risk it! When in doubt, go ahead and bleed the ABS. 5. False. Some ABS units use a high-pressure nitrogen-charged accumulator to provide additional pressure to the brakes when tire slippage ceases. Others utilize only pump pressure. Some “passive” ABS systems strictly rely on the driver continuing to depress the pedal in an emergency stop. Failure of the diaphragm in an accumulator after completely depressurizing them is something that should be tested for after recharging them.

There are numerous new designs on the road, such as these Bosch 5.3 and 8.1 units, and performance just gets better and better. That makes keeping up with service recommendations a challenge, however.

2. True. An ABS bleed cycle must be commanded using a bi-directional scan tool, either O.E. or aftermarket.

3. In general, this is true, since the master cylinder is “upstream” of the ABS unit. But on a unit “plumbed” like the Bosch, the answer may be “it depends.”

4. False. Air trapped inside an ABS unit won’t affect brake pedal feel under “normal” braking conditions that don’t engage the ABS. Furthermore, tomorrow’s brake-by-wire systems will simulate brake pedal pressure, making “feel” a thing of the past as a diagnostic aid.

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6. False. Some techs have claimed success bleeding ABS units by performing repeated ABS-engaging stops. This can help purge some of the air trapped in an ABS modulator, but there’s no guarantee it will get rid of all of it. It should only be used as a stop-gap measure before obtaining access to a bi-directional scan tool capable of commanding proper bleeding.

7. False. It may be true on some vehicles, but not on all. Again, this is where having adequate brake bleeding information is critical. Fortunately, ABS gets rid of metering and proportioning valves on most vehicles, substituting features like “dynamic brake proportioning” under software control.

8. False. Many ABSs can be successfully commanded to perform a bleed cycle using an aftermarket bidirectional scanner. The issue is one of coverage.

The commands available, and needed, vary with the flavor of ABS.

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April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Bleeding ABS

Well, here’s the menu. Do you know what to do on this particular specimen?

When purchasing or upgrading a scan tool to handle ABS bleeding, be sure you fully understand what “coverage” really means. A checkmark in a box doesn’t tell you much. Does coverage include the ability to reset the ABS MIL as well as read codes and command a bleed cycle? Can the scan tool command ABS pump operation? Can it command individual actuators, rehome or relieve tension on gears, perform sequence control for testing, engage relays, calibrate the traction control, or perform other operations?

Testing ABS After Repairs How many techs intentionally engage the ABS during post-repair test drives? Probably most. But how many would be willing to engage it on a sweeping turn, on a slick road where an ABS failure could have serious consequences?

According to an Internet posting by Michael Neal, a Jaguar-Certified technician: I do extreme situation ABS testing on cars during major services. I get quite a few surprises. Even from a moderate speed of 45 mph I’ve had cars yank the steering wheel out of my hands and the car ends up rotating 30 or 40 degrees. This is usually caused by a sticking piston or slide on a caliper.

Most techs are probably more concerned with properly burnishing the brake pads on the test drive than they are wringing out the ABS system, especially

12 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

when all you have is a public road to work with rather than a test track and/or skidpad with no other traffic to endanger. But fully testing your work is a vital part of ABS brake service. n

Sources of Brake Bleeding Procedure Info In order to have access to brake bleeding procedures for every ABS-equipped vehicle ever made, one brake industry expert subscribes to no less than three different information services. Not every shop can afford that many subscriptions. A less expensive “three-day” or “one-vehicle” pass to an online service, or to a manufacturer’s website, could allow you to obtain the factory bleeding procedure for a vehicle not covered by your primary information service.

There’s also the Bendix Brakes’ StopShop (www.bottomlineink.net/bendix/stopshop.asp).

For $69.95 a year, you and your techs can call the StopShop hotline as often as you need to and speak directly with guru Jay Buckley and his team of brake experts. They have years of expertise to draw on as well as access to “virtually every” bleeding procedure, and pattern failure information. They’re also available to help you with all sorts of brake problems, not just ABS issues.

In addition to bleeding procedures, TSBs are equally vital information to have considering the number of ABS recalls over the years. Autozone’s website, based on information from Alldata and DelMar Learning, offers free access to TSBs as well as repair guides and bleeding procedures for numerous vehicles.

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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14 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

P

erhaps you aren’t aware of the monstrous problem of counterfeit auto parts. Maybe you’ve never received bogus parts in your shop. Or, maybe you’ve used copycat parts and didn’t know it. Perhaps you’ve just been lucky. That doesn’t mean it’s not happening to others. And you could be next.

Counterfeiting is seriously affecting the repair industry, and, if left unchecked, the flow of fakes can have a potentially devastating effect on everyone in the automotive service chain from manufacturer to consumer.

Counterfeiting in all its forms already touches the lives and wallets of all Americans. The global effects of counterfeiting reach far beyond fake auto parts. Here are some facts to consider: The International AntiCounterfeiting Coalition (IACC) is a large consortium of companies with established brands, in­­vestigative organizations, legal firms, security agencies, government enforcement agencies and trade associations. Among IACC’s automotive members are DaimlerChrysler, Ford, General Motors and Federal-Mogul. IACC says counterfeiting accounts for a $200 billion a year loss to U.S. trademark holders and companies. That’s really something to think about in the light of the faltering domestic automotive manufacturing scene, where thousands of American workers are losing their jobs.

The U.S. Federal Trade Commission says the impact of counterfeiting on the global automotive parts industry amounts to $12 billion a year. Over $3 billion of that amount is in the United States alone. If counterfeiting of auto parts were to be eliminated, the FTC states, the auto industry could hire 250,000 additional American workers! That’s more than the number of workers laid off by GM, Ford, DaimlerChrysler and their major suppliers in recent years.

The International Chamber of Commerce (ICC) offers an even more grim opinion. The ICC says bogus goods amount to $350 billion on the world trade market. It estimates that over 7% of the goods on the global market are fakes. As the largest consumer of international goods, the United States is also the biggest market for counterfeiters.

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Counterfeit Parts: The Facts on Fakes It’s a Global Problem

Why Counterfeit?

The counterfeiting of name-brand goods is not new. We’ve all seen the fake Rolex watches and Gucci handbags on street corners and at flea markets. Maybe you’ve even bought some of these phonies, but you really knew they weren’t the real thing. They don’t function and last like the genuine products, but no one complains too much because they’re dirt cheap.

Bogus auto parts are a very, very different thing.

These parts – unlike the street-corner copies – are being passed off as the genuine items. While a phony watch just stops working, fake brakes can kill.

The pervasiveness of phony parts has far-reaching effects on the industry – parts makers and suppliers, service shops, and, of course, consumers. The makers of genuine parts lose business, which affects their profits, their workforce, and the communities where the companies are established and where their employees live.

It also ultimately drives up the price of legitimate parts.

Service facilities that unknowingly install bogus parts will suffer from poor customer relations and added costs to repair the vehicle properly with legitimate parts, and will bear the legal responsibility for any damage to the vehicle or human injury resulting from the use of fake parts.

Consumers whose vehicles are fitted with counterfeit parts face the prospect of poor performance and longevity, the inconvenience of returning the vehicle for correct repair, frustration with the repair facility, and – most important of all – major safety issues.

The Motor and Equipment Manufacturers Association (MEMA) is a large automotive industry organization. It consists of the Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association (AASA), the Heavy Duty Manufacturers Association (HDMA), the Original Equipment Suppliers Association (OESA) and other groups. MEMA has been at the forefront in the battle against counterfeiting and trade brand piracy. MEMA estimates that 80% of counterfeit auto parts smuggled into the U.S. are made in China. Hyundai, the South Korean manufacturer, claims to lose about $200 million annually to Chinese parts counterfeiters.

China, unfortunately, is not alone as a source of fake parts. Robert Bosch has been the target of counterfeiters in the Middle East, where many automobiles are Germanmade. Bosch recently stated that as much as 30 % of the replacement auto parts in the region are phonies – to the tune of $3.3 billion. Other countries where counterfeiters operate include the third-world nations in Central and South America, and, to a lesser extent, some Eastern European and Western Asian countries.

The reason for counterfeiting is simple: money.

If legitimate companies can make big profits from producing goods, the copiers believe they can make a nice profit by producing fakes and passing them off as the real thing.

Willie Sutton, the last of the big-time bank robbers, was arrested in 1952. When a reporter asked him why he robbed banks, Sutton replied tersely, “That’s where the money is.” To counterfeiters, the parts business is “where the money is.” Taking an item or brand that’s firmly established and respected, copying it using inferior materials and the cheapest labor possible, and packaging it to look like the real deal is the formula for making a quick buck.

Unfortunately, the profits from these bogus products often contribute to sinister purposes. Much of the time, the profits are destined to end up in the coffers of organized crime and terrorist groups. The FBI traced the money used to finance the 1993 bombing of the World Trade Center in New York back to a T-shirt counterfeiting operation. The Irish Republican Army (IRA) benefited from a counterfeiting ring making copies of the Disney animated film, The Lion King. A Lebanese terrorist operation was financed by copying computer software.

Some counterfeiting operations have been shown to fund the drug trade and launder money.

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Automakers Pay for Counterfeiting — Twice The real cost of fake parts to the automakers is higher than you might expect. First, they lose money on the sale of genuine parts, which are lost to fake parts. Secondly, they often have to supply genuine parts to replace the faulty fakes under warranty service. The cost of combating counterfeiters adds up to really big bucks. If you think the overall cost doesn’t affect the price of the genuine O.E. parts you buy to install on your customer’s vehicles, think again.

Recently, Ford Motor Company announced that counterfeit parts are costing the automaker an astounding $1 billion a year. The company is now planning an all-out war against parts pirates. Ford has a full-time team of investigators who work with informants to locate warehouses and factories that produce fakes.

Late last year, Ford investigators and law enforcement agencies raided a parts warehouse in Queens, NY, and

Counterfeit Parts: The Facts on Fakes seized a sizeable shipment of bogus parts slated for use on Ford-built limousines, police cars and taxis. It was the third time the warehouse had been busted in the last two years.

GM: The Big Target The biggest target of auto part counterfeiters is the biggest automaker: General Motors. GM’s parts group, ACDelco, and the dealer distribution group General Motors Service Parts Organization (GMSPO) are the innocent victims of the knock-off artists.

For decades, GM and ACDelco have waged war on counterfeiters around the globe. GM has assembled Global Brand Protection Teams to work with local law enforcement agencies in North America, South America, Asia/Pacific, Europe and the Middle East investigating counterfeiting reports. Cliff Cohen, manager of GMSPO’s Global Brand Protection and Licensing, points out, “Since 2002, more than 600 cases have been investigated. Since the mid-80s, GM has seized more than $250 million in counterfeited parts.”

ACDelco is now adding a special mark to many parts to help officials tell the real thing from the fakes.

The Dangers to You You, as a technician, could suffer from the use of counterfeit parts whether you know it or not. Of course, you would never purposely use bad, flimsy or inferior parts. It’s just not feasible that you would jeopardize your livelihood.

The safety of the vehicles you repair is always a concern.

Faulty replacements only increase the chance of part failure and the problems that result. The safety of your customers is paramount. Additionally, the resulting failure of faulty parts may cause the loss of customer confidence and reflect poorly on your reputation.

In the case of a serious accident caused by fake parts, the legal liability could cause a rate increase or cancellation of your shop’s liability insurance. In states that license technicians, an investigation could affect your certification.

Recognizing Bogus Parts The most commonly counterfeited auto parts are maintenance items, which account for the biggest volume and profit. The list below illustrates the types of products that are popular for counterfeiters:

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n A/C Co­­mpressors n Alternators n Bearings n Brake Shoes n Coolant n Fan Belts n Generators n Oxygen Sensors n Shock Absorbers n Starters n Valves n Wheel Covers

n n n n n n n n n n n

Air Filters Antifreeze Brake Pads Camshafts Distributor Caps Gasoline Filters Oil Filters Rocker Arms Spark Plugs Transmission Fluid Valve Lifters

Identifying a counterfeit part isn’t easy, but it can be done. It just takes a little observation and common sense. If you suspect a part of being a fake, carefully inspect it, the packaging it came in, and any instructions or paperwork enclosed.

Counterfeit parts are sold as new brand name items – names you know and trust. These products usually are a bit more costly than off-brands or refurbished parts, so they bring more money than lesser products. They are normally made by the O.E. vehicle manufacturer, a top supplier, or a company licensed to make the part.

The reputation of the manufacturer ensures that the part is made to high standards in fit and function.

Copiers prey on your confidence in the genuine part maker’s reputation and your confidence in its products.

Beware of any products sold as a genuine “overrun,” “seconds,” or “similar quality.” Know who you are buying from and that you have recourse or right of return if the part does not fit or function properly.

Don’t buy parts sold out of the back of an anonymous truck that stops at your shop, or from flea markets. In short, buy from your normal sources where you enjoy a good relationship.

Inspect the part for obvious flaws. Ragged-edged drive belts, rough-surfaced castings, flimsy wires, crappy connectors, poorly polished mating surfaces, or sharp edges should all draw suspicion. Compare the replacement part to the one you removed from the vehicle. Often, this will show any significant differences. A genuine namebrand replacement part should have similar markings as the removed part, but not always. Genuine parts may change slightly from year to year, but will always fit and perform properly. If you have any questions about the authenticity of a part, contact your supplier.

Inspect the packaging for the right logos and company information. Check the graphics for proper color and quality of printing. Read the name and printing on the package thoroughly to make sure you are not about to install a product made by “Dinso,” Visteron” or “AGDelco.”­­­

Can you tell a real brand-name starter from a fake? Electrical components are popular for counterfeiters because they can be made extremely cheaply compared to the quality-made genuine article. The genuine item is on the right (courtesy AASA).

Here again, the counterfeit alternator (left) is almost indistinguishable from the genuine part (right).

Counterfeiters hope you won’t be able to tell them apart

Make sure the packaging isn’t flimsier that what you normally see with the genuine product. Counterfeiters not only copy the part, but also copy the packaging to further fool an unsuspecting buyer. Many parts also have protective materials included in the box. If you (courtesy AASA). receive a starter, A/C compressor or alternator that isn’t cradled by protective material, you may have a fake.

Take a good look at any installation instructions or diagrams in the package – if there are any. The printing should be clean and clear, pertain to the part and identify the source. The writing should also be in good English.

Lastly, the price of the part should be in line with what you normally expect to pay. While competition among legilimate suppliers may cause prices to vary somewhat, the old adage still applies: “If it seems too good to be true, it probably is.”

If you think you have a counterfeit part, return it to the source. Suppliers value their reputation and your patronage. If you are not satisfied with the response from the supplier, contact the part manufacturer and discuss the matter. Most major parts manufacturers have hotlines for suspected counterfeit parts, as well as websites for reporting fakes. For example, GM has a Global Brand Protection hotline at 810.835.8014. If you wish to remain anonymous, you can call the GM AwareLine toll-free at 800.244.3460.

Fighting the Fakes Many companies, organizations, associations and government agencies are combating the counterfeiting of auto parts. All major automakers and large tier-one suppliers have teamed up to seek out

Brake parts, due to their high usage, are a prime target for counterfeiters. They even copy the packaging down to the last detail. The real ACDelco pad is on the right (courtesy AASA).

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

19

Counterfeit Parts: The Facts on Fakes

The U.S. Chamber of Commerce has formed a business protection group called the Coalition Against Piracy and Counterfeiting (CAPC). A subgroup of CAPC, the No Trade in Fakes Task Force has issued a guide entitled The No Trade in Fakes Supply Chain Tool Kit to help manufacturers, suppliers, and distribution chain businesses combat the The difference between a genuine oil filter (left) problem and network with and a fake (right) is illustrated by the greater law enforcement agencies. amount and better quality of filtering material, The guide points out that plus the stronger, more durable threads, base very often counterfeiters exploit weaknesses in the and can (courtesy ACDelco). supply chain by posing as counterfeiting operations around the globe and work legitimate businesses, purchasing quantities of genuine with international and local law enforcement agencies. parts and mixing the fake parts in with the real parts.

Globally, Interpol and the World Customs The best weapon to battle bogus goods so Organization have responded to tips on counterfeiting far may be the “Stop Counterfeiting in Manuoperations, and, along with local authorities, have factured Goods Act” passed by Congress last busted many of the shoddy shops, mainly in China and the Middle East. The FBI and U.S. Customs officials year. It mandates strong penalties for violating have been working with foreign governments to help trademark laws, including: trace the flow of counterfeit goods back to their origins n Requiring the destruction of equipment used to and the bank accounts of the offenders in some cases. make counterfeit goods.

On U.S. soil, under the Homeland Security n I llegalizing the traffic of counterfeit trademarks Department, U.S. Customs and Border Protection such as labels, patches and medallions.

(CBP) and Immigration and Customs Enforcement n S etting fines of up to $15 million and prison (ICE) have been working with industry associations to terms of up to 20 years. help identify and seize shipments of bogus goods. n M andating financial restitution Among industry associations, MEMA and its market to affected companies. segment member associations have taken a stance on the front lines to combat counterfeiting. MEMA’s Brand Protection Council and notably the Automotive Doing Your Part Aftermarket Suppliers Association have been active in lobbying Congress and cooperating with government While trade associations, law enforcement agencies investigative and enforcement agencies to stem the flow and Congress work to stop the manufacture and influx of fake auto parts. of counterfeit auto parts, you – as a technician – need The combined efforts are starting to show results. to do your part to help fight the blight that can effect The U.S. Chamber of Commerce recently reported an the livelihood and safety of all Americans.

83% increase in seizures of counterfeit goods during First, be aware of the problem. Be observant of 2006 by U.S. Customs and Border Protection and questionable parts — inspect them, check them for Immigration and Customs Enforcement. However, proper operation, and consider the source. Contact the counterfeit enforcement still needs stronger teeth. supplier if you have questions.

20 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

* Details available at your authorized BMW center. Š2008 BMW of North America, LLC. The BMW name, model names and logo are registered trademarks. All rights reserved.

Counterfeit Parts: The Facts on Fakes

Genuine

Counterfeit Counterfeiters go to great lengths to fool you by copying not only the part, but also the labels and packaging (courtesy ACDelco).

Next, take action. Refuse to use any parts if you are convinced they are fake. Return them to the source. You wouldn’t knowingly pass a counterfeit $20 bill. It’s not right morally or legally, so why would you want to use a counterfeit part? When you do, you assume part of the legal responsibility.

Last – and most important – report the incident.

MEMA’s Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association and the Brand Protection Council encourages the reporting of bogus parts. The council consists of every national-brand automotive parts supplier. Suspect parts can be reported confidentially to Brian Duggan, MEMA’s Director of Trade policy. He can be reached at 202.312.9243 or at bduggan@mema.org.

If we in the automotive repair industry want to improve our image, protect the legitimate parts manufacturers, save American jobs, keep insurance and parts costs from rising and preserve the safety of all drivers, everyone must chip in. The fastest way to lose ground in the battle against counterfeit parts is to do nothing at all. n

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Websites The following list of websites can offer further help in outlining the problems of auto parts counterfeiting, recognizing and reporting fake parts. n ACDelco: www.acdelco.com/parts/counterfeit n GM: www.gmgoodwrench.com/PartsAccessories/ GMPartsAdvantage.jsp n Motor & Equipment Manufacturers Association (MEMA): (This page links to AASA page) www.mema.org n Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association (AASA): www.aftermarketsuppliers.org/issues/ counterfeiting.php n International AntiCounterfeiting Coalition: www.iacc.org n U.S. Chamber of Commerce: (Global Anti-Counterfeiting and Piracy Initiative) www.uschamber.com/ncf/initiatives/ counterfeiting.htmv

PART 1

Image courtesy Honda 24 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

by Tom Nash

M The number of hybrid vehicles on the road is rapidly growing. As they emerge from the umbrella of manufacturer warranties, they’ll begin to make their way into your service bays.

In this first of two parts, we’ll look at what constitutes “gasoline/electric hybrids,” how they function and what vehicles are powered by hybrid systems.

ore than a million hybrids are on the road globally – over half that in the U.S. – so it’s only a matter of time before the first one rolls into your shop. To be competitive in the near future, you’ll want to be ready to service these critters, so here’s some background and technical information to bring you up to (green) speed.

First, a little clarity on what’s called a hybrid: When we speak of “hybrids” here, we are referring to vehicles that have both a gasoline or diesel internal combustion engine and one or more electric motors, which combine to power the vehicle. Currently in North America, only the gasoline/electric versions have made their way to the market. To avoid confusion, an internal combustion engine will be called an “engine” and an electric motor will be called a “motor.”

Hybrid vehicles on the road today employ these two separate power forms. Here, we think of the Honda and Toyota systems that have been established for the last several years. These two companies and their respective Hybrid Electrical Vehicle (HEV) systems account for the vast majority of hybrids on our roads today – and the ones on which we’ll focus. These types are called: “Full Hybrid” vehicles because they can function solely on either power source or seamlessly blend and/or change between the two.

Another kind of hybrid vehicle, a “mild hybrid” or “mibrid,” features an electrical motor/generator integrated into the engine’s drivetrain. This may be referred to generically as an Integrated Starter Alternator (ISA), but may be called something similar by the vehicle manufacturer. The ISA acts as a starter to power up the engine, then converts to become a generator to create current, which is sent to the battery pack. These vehicles realize about 10-15 percent savings in fuel. Examples of this type of mild hybrid are the 2005-2007 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Hybrid Pickups with a Flywheel Starter Alternator (FSA) located in the transmission bell housing.

Yet another form of hybrid is showing signs of favor as a way to integrate electrical drive systems with internal combustion engines. This type of partial hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) system is also referred to as “TwoMode.” GM, Chrysler and BMW have formed a joint venture to further explore and improve on this style of hybrid for light truck and passenger cars.

Two-Mode adds twin electric motors in the drivetrain to augment the engine for optimum city and highway driving. The vehicle can operate on electric motor power only, engine power only or in combination.

Thus far, only GM has successfully introduced some of these systems in larger SUVs, pickups and the 2009 Saturn VUE. Chrysler’s attempt to bring Two-Mode SUVs began in late 2008, but quickly ceased, due to the slumping economy.

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Are you ready for the Hybrid Highway?

Small, powerful motors drive the wheels in “two-mode” hybrids. This two-mode technology is being jointly developed by GM, Chrysler and BMW (courtesy GM).

Parallel Hybrid System

Still other types of hybrid electric/internal combustion engine vehicles are in development, but currently only exist in testing prototypes or design status at this point. Many more may join the fleets soon.

There are, of course, hybrid buses for public transportation, and pieces of hybrid construction and agricultural equipment, but they won’t be addressed in this article. Unless you’re in that line of service, you won’t be working on them. For simplicity, we’ll stick to passenger vehicles and light trucks.

Basic Types of Hybrid Systems The three major types of hybrid systems currently being used or under development are:

Series Hybrid System In a series hybrid system, the engine drives a generator and a separate electric motor uses the generated electricity to drive the wheels. The engine-generated electricity is controlled by a control unit, which directs the power to the motor to drive the wheels, or to the storage battery as needed.

26 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

In a parallel hybrid system, both the engine and electric motor can drive the wheels. The power from these two sources can be used as needed. The battery is charged by switching the electric motor to serve as a generator while the battery serves as the power source. Because the system does not have a dedicated drive motor, it cannot propel the car while acting as a generator to charge the battery.

Series/Parallel Hybrid System

Hybrids Now on the Road

The series/parallel hybrid system maximizes the best of both the series and parallel systems. It adds a power split device to drive the generator while also allowing the motor to drive the wheels at the same time. The engine can also drive the wheels separately, or with the motor. A system with conversion capabilities that allow the motor to convert to a generator as needed also falls into this category.

HONDA 2000-2006 Insight Hybrid

The electrical power center of the Honda Insight is located under the rear cargo area. The controls, converter, inverter, and battery pack are cooled by two fans on the back (courtesy Honda).

Honda’s 2000 Insight was the first hybrid introduced to the U.S. Because the small coupe didn’t fit everyone’s needs, Honda followed up with the Civic version in 2003 (courtesy Honda).

The Honda Insight was the first hybrid on U.S. roads.

It uses what Honda calls Integrated Motor Assist (IMA).

An electric motor assists the engine during acceleration; the rest of the time the engine powers the vehicle. During braking and coasting, the motor recharges the battery pack. When the vehicle comes to a complete stop, the engine shuts off and restarts upon releasing the clutch pedal (manual) or pressing accelerator pedal (auto). This feature is referred to as “idle-stop.”

This type of system, wherein the motor assists the engine, is generally referred to as a “partial hybrid.” It can also be considered a form of parallel hybrid.

The Insight’s electric motor, located where the flywheel is usually found, is an ultra-thin, 2.3-inch wide permanentmagnet type. Electricity for the motor is stored in a 144-volt nickel-metal hydride battery pack. The motor also serves as the starter, but if the high-voltage battery pack’s charge level is low, a 12-volt battery and starter kicks in. Control for the IMA system comes from the Power Control Unit (PCU), located in the rear, under the cargo area floor. The compartment also holds the battery pack, a DC-DC converter, an Electronic Control Unit (ECU), a high-voltage inverter and a couple of cooling fans.

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Are you ready for the Hybrid Highway?

The PCU regulates the rate and direction of current between the battery and motor, releasing current to the motor as needed to assist the engine. It also monitors the battery’s charge rate. Recharging of the battery pack is achieved by a regenerative braking system and the dynamic action of the motor under braking or coasting, rather than by current generated by the gasoline engine.

For 2000, only a 5-speed manual transmission was available. In 2001 a CVT automatic trans became available. 2006 was the last year for the Insight.

Engine: 1.0L 3-cylinder VTEC, 67 hp Motor: 13.4 hp (combined 73 hp) Transmission: 5-speed manual only in 2000; optional CVT 2001-2006 Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 144V 2003-2007 Civic Hybrid

The Civic Hybrid’s Second Generation IMA builds on the Insight design. Because the Civic is a 4-door sedan, compared to the Insight’s lightweight coupe, it required a larger engine. Honda dropped in a 1.3L, 4-cylinder VTEC engine with intelligent Dual & Sequential Ignition (i-DSI), which includes two spark plugs per cylinder. An Intelligent Power Unit (IPU) was added to the CPU to monitor the cylinder idling system. It reduces engine resistance and increases the level of kinetic energy recovered during deceleration (regenerative braking).

The engine and motor were boosted to 93 and 20 horsepower respectively in 2006, raising the combined output to 110 hp. For the first three model years (20032005), either the 5-speed manual or CVT transmissions were available. Starting in 2006, only the CVT box was offered. Also beginning in 2006, the IMA system can now drive the vehicle via the electric motor under cruising speed. ngine: 1.3L 4-cylinder VTEC, 2003-2005: 85 hp; E 2006-2007: 93 hp; 2009: 110 hp Motor: 2003-2005: 13.4 hp (combined 93 hp); 20062009: 20 hp (combined 110 hp) Transmission: 2003-2005: 5-speed manual or CVT; 2006-2007: CVT only.

Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 2005:144V; 2006-2009: 158V

2005-2007 Accord Hybrid

In 2005, Honda brought the popular Accord sedan into its stable of hybrids. The third generation of IMA features a 3.0L V6 engine mated with a 16 hp, high-torque motor/ generator that combines for 253 total horsepower.

The Accord’s IMA adds a Variable Cylinder Management (VCM) system that switches between six-cylinder and three-cylinder operation. During acceleration, or when needed for passing or hill ascent, the system uses all six cylinders. Under low engine load, such as cruising, light acceleration or braking, the VCM deactivates the rear cylinder bank. The VCM system in the Accord differs from the type found in the Civic, which deactivates three of the four cylinders during deceleration to help improve the efficiency of the regenerative braking. Unlike the idle-stop feature in the Insight and Civic Hybrid, the Accord Hybrid engine continues to run while the vehicle’s A/C system is in use. Honda discontinued the Accord Hybrid version at the end of the 2007 model year.

Engine: 3.0L SOHC i-VTEC V-6, 240 hp Motor: 16 hp (combined 253 hp) Transmission: 5-speed automatic Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 144V

Honda boosted its IMA system to a 3.0L engine and a bigger motor for the 2005 Accord Hybrid. This cutaway view shows the motor between the engine and the planetary transmission (courtesy Honda).

28 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

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April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

29

Are you ready for the Hybrid Highway?

2004-2009 Engine: 1.5L DOHC VVT-i I-4, 76 hp Motor: 67 hp (combined 110 hp) Transmission: Planetary Electronically Controlled CVT (ECVT) Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 201V 2006-2009 Highlander Hybrid

The 2000 Toyota Prius was the foundation for the company’s present range of hybrid vehicles (courtesy Toyota).

TOYOTA Toyota, including its Lexus division, has emerged as the clear leader in hybrid sales with six models currently on the market and more to come.

2000-2009 Prius Hybrid

Toyota’s Prius uses a series/parallel drive, dubbed the Toyota Hybrid System (THS), in which the electric motor is dominant and any combination of gasoline and electric power might be employed, depending on driving conditions.

The engine always runs on cold start to warm up the catalytic converter, then the vehicle will accelerate from a start on the motor alone. The engine shuts off during stops, when backing up or when descending long hills.

When driving conditions demand more power, the engine will start up as directed by the control unit.

In 2004, Toyota launched its second generation THS, called Hybrid Synergy Drive (HSD). The addition of more power monitoring and control devices – along with an improved engine and motors, plus improved emissions components – created a more sophisticated system.

Under the original THS system, the engine continued to run while the air conditioning system was operating.

The HSD system employs an electric compressor to allow the A/C to continue cooling the cabin while the engine is stopped.

2001-2003 Engine: 1.5L DOHC VVT-i I-4, 70 hp Motor: 44 hp (combined 98 hp) Transmission: Planetary Electronically Controlled CVT (ECVT) Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 273V

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Toyota’s first SUV hybrid was the Highlander. Based on HSD technology, the Highlander offered real power for hauling passengers and gear. A new technology, called 4WD-i, allowed the SUV to offer a 4-wheel drive version. The addition of a rear drive motor eliminated the need for a differential and also serves to regenerate current, which is then sent to the storage battery.

Engine: 3.3L DOHC VVT-i V6, 209 hp Motors: Motor/Generator #1 (MG1) for primary generation, engine starting Motor/Generator #2 (MG2) for front wheel drive: 167 hp Motor/Generator Rear (MGR) for rear wheel drive: 68 hp (combined 270 hp) Transmission: Planetary Electronically Controlled CVT (ECVT) Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 288V

The optional 4WD-i hybrid system on the Toyota Highlander Hybrid adds a motor to help drive the rear wheels in 4-wheel mode (courtesy Toyota).

2007-2009 Camry Hybrid

The Camry is already the most popular passenger car in the U.S., so Toyota is counting on the hybrid version to boost sales even further. Cutting-edge electric technologies found on Camry, such as for brakes, HVAC, steering, allow the vehicle to operate on electrical current power only.

Engine: 2.4L DOHC VVT-i I-4, 147 hp Motor: 140 hp (combined 187 hp) Transmission: Planetary Electronically Controlled CVT (ECVT) Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 244V

Manufacturer Technical Information Websites: www.motorcraft.com

LEXUS

Chevrolet, GMC, Saturn www.gmtechinfo.com

Lexus calls its version of Toyota’s Hybrid Synergy Drive system Lexus Hybrid Drive (LHD), although the HSD nomenclature may appear under the hood or in service information.

www.ServiceExpress.Honda.com

2006-2009 RX 400h

www.nissantechinfo.com

The first luxury crossover hybrid, the RX 400h, starts with the popular RX330 gasoline-driven vehicle, then packs a hybrid system under the hood. Basically, the system is identical to that of the Toyota Highlander.

Engine: 3.3L DOHC VVT-i V6, 208 hp Motors: Motor/Generator #1 (MG1) for primary generation, engine starting Motor/Generator #2 (MG2) for front wheel drive: 167 hp Motor/Generator Rear (MGR) for rear wheel drive: 68 hp (combined 268 hp) Transmission: Planetary Electronically Controlled CVT (ECVT) Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 288V 2007-2009 GS 450h

www.techinfo.toyota.com

Hybrid Training Courses:

Auto Career Development Center (ACDC) Craig Van Batenburg’s popular multi-day indepth hybrid classes are available for technician groups on request or regularly scheduled at various locations. Check the website or call for more information. www.auto-careers.org

800-939-7909

Lexus tweaked its GS mid-size sedan to offer a luxury hybrid. The addition of a motor/generator for primary current generation, engine starting and engine speed control leaves the main motor free to drive the rear wheels and regenerate current.

Engine: 3.5L DOHC VVT-i V6, 292 hp Motors: Motor/Generator #1 (MG1) for primary generation, engine starting Motor/Generator #2 (MG2) for rear wheel drive: 197 hp (combined 340 hp) Transmission: Planetary Electronically Controlled CVT (ECVT) Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 288V

The CARQUEST Technical Institute offers classes in hybrid maintenance, generic hybrid service and specialized Toyota THS and HSD system diagnosis. These are 8-hour sessions taught at various locations around the country.

Check the website or ask your local CARQUEST provider for specifics. www.carquest.com

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Are you ready for the Hybrid Highway?

2008 LS 600h L

Basically, the LS 600h L is a top-of-the-line hybrid limo. With all the features and performance found on the finest European V12 luxury cars, the LS 600h L becomes the flagship of hybrids. It features a full-time AWD system.

Lexus added an electronically-controlled, motordriven intake cam added to the hydraulically-driven exhaust cam (VVT-i) to create VVT-iE. A new-tech hydrocarbon adsorber (no, it’s not misspelled) system collects hydrocarbons during cold start and warm up, then cooks them off when the catalytic converter reached operating temps.

speeds at which fuel efficiency drops, the motor restarts to assist in driving the vehicle, keeping the engine in the efficient rpm range while the axle revs increase.

Nissan uses an Aisin electronically-controlled beltdrive CVT to transmit power to the drive wheels. A regenerative braking system is used to capture energy and convert it to current for the battery pack. An electric A/C system insures cabin cooling while the engine is stopped.

Engine: 2.5L I-4, 158 hp Motor: 40 hp (combined 198 hp) Drivetrain: Belt-drive electronically-controlled CVT Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 244V

Engine: 5.0L DOHC VVT-iE V8, 389 hp Motors: Motor/Generator #1 (MG1) for primary generation, engine starting Motor/Generator #2 (MG2) for rear wheel drive: 221 hp (combined 438 hp) Transmission: 2-stage ECVT Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) 288V

The Nissan Altima Hybrid uses technology from Toyota to blend power from the motor and engine as needed to drive the vehicle (courtesy Nissan) The ultimate luxury hybrid, the Lexus LS 600h L offers all the posh comforts of the finest European sedans with the economy and environmental features wanted by concerned buyers (courtesy Lexus).

NISSAN 2007-2009 Altima Hybrid

Nissan’s first HEV hybrid is based on licensed Toyota technology. The vehicle accelerates from a stop under electric-only power, then the gasoline engine kicks in to handle the bulk of the workload. As the engine reaches

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FORD MOTOR COMPANY 2005-2009 Ford Escape/Mercury Mariner

The Ford Motor Company licenses Toyota’s first generation THS technology so the Ford Escape and Mercury Mariner electric portion of their hybrid systems are very similar to that found on the Prius.

Mechanically, Ford uses a Duratec Atkinson Cycle-type engine and an electronically-controlled planetary CVT transmission.

2008 Engine: 2.3L Atkinson Cycle I4, 133 hp Motor: 22 hp (combined 155 hp) Drivetrain: Planetary ECVT Battery: 330V

2005-2007 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra Hybrid

Here’s a look at the Escape and Mariner hybrid system (courtesy Ford).

This system uses a Flywheel Starter Alternator (FSA) located in the transmission bell housing. It serves to start the 5.3L Vortec engine, then switches to generate current.

The engine shuts off when the truck is coasting or braking, then restarts upon releasing the brake pedal.

Regenerative braking turns the motor into a generator as the truck decelerates.

Power storage is provided by three 12/14-volt batteries located under the rear seat, creating a 36/42volt system for the FSA. While DC-DC converters step the voltage down to 12-volts for the standard lighting, ignition and operational systems, special DC-AC inverters change the current to 120V to power four outlets, two under the rear seat and two in the pickup bed, to operate power tools at a construction site, or to run essential home appliances during power outages.

2008-2009 Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon Two-Mode Hybrids

This exploded view of the motor and planetary CVT transmission shows the system used on the Ford Escape and Mercury Mariner hybrids (courtesy Ford) 2009 Engine: 2.5L Atkinson Cycle I-4, 153 hp Motor: 22 hp (combined 175 hp) Drivetrain: Planetary ECVT Battery: 330V

MAZDA 2008-2009 Tribute HEV The Mazda Tribute HEV hybrid is identical to the Ford Escape and Mercury Mariner Hybrids.

GENERAL MOTORS General Motors began its foray into the hybrid market with “mild hybrids” that use high-torque motors to start the engine and create current.

The benefits of the joint Two-Mode hybrid development venture with Chrysler and BMW paid off first for GM – the biggest shareholder. For 2008, GM brought a pair of Two-Mode hybrids to market on the company’s largest SUVs, the Chevy Tahoe and GMC Yukon, in attempt to raise fuel efficiency on those vehicles to make them more attractive to buye Engine power is provided by a 6.0L V-8 Gen IV gasoline engine with Active Fuel Management (AFM), which deactivates four cylinders for cruising and under light loads, and Late Intake Valve Closing (LIVC) technology.

While the vehicle has a 12V system for the normal operation of accessories, the hybrid electrics are handled by a 300V nickel-metal hydride (Ni-MH) Energy Storage System (ESS) battery pack and control components. When the brakes are applied or the vehicle is coasting, the electric motors within the hybrid system create electricity that is stored in the battery. This stored energy is used to move the vehicle and the regenerative braking cycle is renewed. A new Electrically Variable Transmission (EVT) transfers the engine power to the wheels.

2009 Chevrolet Silverado, GMC Sierra & Cadillac Escalade Two-Mode Hybrids For the 2009 model year, Chevrolet Silverado, GMC Sierra and Cadillac Escalade joined GM’s stable of TwoMode Hybrids. The major specs are identical.

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

33

Are you ready for the Hybrid Highway?

The Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Hybrid pickups use a unique system to reduce gasoline consumption and provide jobsite or emergency 120V current (courtesy GM).

Yes,

You Can Fix ‘Em R

ight about now, you’re probably wondering if you will be able to service a hybrid when one rolls into your shop, or if you’ll have to turn it away. The answer is: Yes, you can service hybrids – with some basic understanding and common sense.

34 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

A hybrid vehicle, after all, is really just a car with a highvoltage battery, some sophisticated controls and one or more powerful electric motors. The rest of the vehicle consists of components and systems with which you’re already familiar.

Every hybrid has the same diagnostic system and data link connector found on non-hybrid vehicles, so you can easily connect a scan tool and read codes.

Just as you would with any type of vehicle you’ve never serviced before, take the time to read the owner’s manual, log onto your service information provider’s system or visit the manufacturer’s technical information website to educate yourself about the vehicle before beginning service.

Best of all, you should gain some knowledge and a little practical experience working on hybrids if you plan to make them part of your business. Taking a class in hybrid service is strongly recommended for a full working knowledge of hybrids.

GM’s Two-Mode Hybrids feature full electric launch from a standing stop. The engine kicks in as needed for power to drive the vehicle (courtesy GM).

That being said, let’s cover some important factors you should keep in mind when servicing hybrids:

Safety First!

You are going to be working around very high voltage. Always take proper precautions.

1. NEVER – under any circumstances – probe the bright orange high voltage system harness or connectors.

2. A LWAYS shut the high voltage system down when working anywhere near a hybrid system-related component.

The shut-off switch can be located by reading the owner’s manual. It may be in the trunk, behind the rear seat or elsewhere. Be sure to wait the appropriate 5-10 minutes after flipping the switch for the system’s capacitors to discharge. Refer to the correct service information for specific details.

3. B E SURE to remove the key from the ignition and make sure the vehicle is in park before working around the accelerator. On models that incorporate a proximity key system that doesn’t require the insertion of a key, only that the fob transmitter is within a certain range before the START button is pushed, make sure the fob is out of range.

Examples include later models of Toyota or Lexus vehicles.

4. A LWAYS educate yourself about the intricacies of the specific vehicle you intend to service, just as you would any other vehicle. Access the correct service information from your service information provider or log onto the manufacturer’s technical information website.

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Are you ready for the Hybrid Highway?

The Saturn VUE Green Line Hybrid uses Belt Alternator Starter (BAS) to start the engine, create electrical current and assist in acceleration (courtesy Saturn).

The 2009 Chrysler Aspen and Dodge Durango HEMI Hybrids mated the 5.7L HEMI engine with MDS to the Two-Mode system (courtesy Chrysler).

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P

orsche’s series hybrid system fitted a motor to each of the front drive wheels. A gasoline engine powered a generator to power the motors.

Porsche proved the system himself by driving prototype vehicles to several European speed records and won a few races. Over 300 of the Lohner-Porsche “hybrids” were sold to buyers from 1901 to 1906, before the competition from lower-priced gasoline-only vehicles eliminated them from the scene.

Over the next few decades, other gasoline/electric vehicles entered the marketplace; only to meet the same fate (courtesy National Automotive History Archives).

Even before 1900, vehicles powered by electric motors and gasoline engines were developed and sold to the public. In 1898, carriage maker Jacob Lohner & Co in Vienna, Austria asked employee Ferdinand Porsche to create drive system that incorporated both electrical and gasoline engine propulsion.

2007-2008 Saturn VUE Green Line Hybrid

The 2007-2008 Saturn VUE Green Line Hybrid uses a slightly different type of starter/alternator called a Belt Alternator Starter (BAS) system. The belt-driven BAS is mounted to the 2.4L Ecotec engine in a similar fashion as you would find with a standard alternator. It functions in a similar manner as the FSA found on the 2005-2007 pickups, but can also assist in mild acceleration.

A 36-volt battery pack provides the hybrid power and a separate 12-volt battery powers the accessories. Regenerative braking and recharging is also part of this system.

2009 Saturn VUE Hybrid

For 2009, the Saturn VUE joins the larger Two-Mode Hybrid family and adds GM’s first FWD Two-Mode transmission. The new version uses a 3.6L VVT 225 hp engine and twin, active-cooled 55-kW electric motors integrated into the 2MT70 automatic transmission.

In the first mode, at lower speed and lighter loads the system functions in one of three ways depending on conditions and battery charge level: all-electric power, internal combustion engine power or a combination of the two. All reverse operation is driven solely by the electric motors.

The second mode is used primarily to optimize fuel economy at highway speeds. It provides electric assist to the engine when conditions demand it, such as towing or climbing steep grades.

Electric power for the drive system comes from a 300V nickel-metal hydride (Ni-MH) battery pack packaged behind the second-row seat, below the cargo floor.

2008-2009 Saturn Aura Green Line Hybrid

The Saturn Aura Green Line Hybrid is essentially the same as the system used in the 2007-2008 VUE Green Line Hybrid. The name, “Green Line” was dropped for 2009, with the hybrid model being badged merely “Hybrid.”

CHRYSLER 2009 Chrysler Aspen and Dodge Durango HEMI Hybrids

As a co-developer of Two-Mode technology (along with General Motors and BMW), Chrysler developed its own form of the technology for use in the 2009 Chrysler Aspen and Dodge Durango.

Chrysler mated the company’s robust 5.7L HEMI 345 hp engine with a Multi-Displacement System (MDS), which shuts off four cylinders for cruising, to the company’s version of Two-Mode technology. The electric hybrid system used two 87 hp electric motors to combine for a total 519 hp of usable power. Current is provided by a 300V Ni-MH battery pack.

Unfortunately, the company’s financial problems during the recent plummet of the economy forced the cancellation of the two SUV models in December, 2008, before very many reached consumers. n

Part 2 of this series will cover Training, Service and Resources.

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, The last wave arrived in the 80s, but , that was nothing compared to what s coming soon. This two-part series will prepare you with operating principles, design fundamentals, diagnostic info and replacement alternatives

by Greg McConiga

38 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

T

he turbocharger is a proven technology that’s been used in heavy duty trucking, agriculture, heavy equipment, marine applications, railroad engines, aircraft, etc. for many decades. In the automotive world, the term conjures up images of exotics, pure racing cars and high-end Europeans, although it’s boosted the power of many more mundane vehicles over the years.

On the street scene, the basic idea has always been to use turbochargers to produce tire-shredding horsepower numbers from relatively small displacements, essentially causing the engine to grow miraculously whenever you put your foot in it. Now, the emphasis is changing to getting acceptable power out of the smallest, most fuelefficient powerplants possible. The market system is nothing if not responsive, so high fuel prices are about to make turbos explode in popularity. More and more new cars will be appearing powered by small, clean-running turbo-diesels and T-charged gas engines. So, what exactly is a turbocharger and how long has it been around?

The availability of new materials more resistant to high temperatures sped the development of the turbocharger. In 1952, Fred Agabashian qualified the first turbocharged diesel engine race car entered in the Indianapolis 500 for the pole position and led the race for just under 100 miles. His day ended when the turbo ingested tire debris left on the track. Practical turbo powered diesel trucks appeared in 1957, and today the majority of both light- and heavy-duty diesel trucks are turbocharged, as is most diesel powered tractors and heavy equipment.

The Oldsmobile Jetfire Turbo Rocket and Chevrolet Corvair Monza appeared in 1962. Suffering from reliability issues, they were not big sellers, so were short-

A little background music, if you please…

The history of turbochargers begins in 1905 when Swiss engineer Alfred J. Buchi patented the first supercharger powered by exhaust heat. It took another ten years to develop a prototype of a turbocharged diesel engine, but the industrial processes and materials did not yet exist that would allow the manufacture of a true production model. The first working turbocharged engine was created in 1910 -- a two-cycle “rotary” diesel aircraft engine built by Murray-Willat (at that time, a rotary engine meant one that had the crankshaft bolted to the airframe so that the entire engine spun with the propeller, so it’s not to be confused with the modern Mazda rotary).

By 1920 the first turbocharged diesel locomotives and ship engines appeared, and General Electric introduced its turbo on a LePere biplane that set an altitude record of over 33,000 feet. That same year Mercedes-Benz and Fiat began turbocharging cars, and in 1936 J.C. Garrett formed Garrett Corporation. By World War II, turbochargers -- often equipped with charge air coolers manufactured by Garrett -- were used in warplanes like the Lockheed P-38 Lighting and B-17 Flying Fortress to overcome the lack of oxygen per cubic foot at high altitude. The demonstrated reliability of turbocharging as used on aircraft opened the door to automotive and diesel truck use after the war.

Turbocharging is all about making use of energy that would otherwise be wasted to pack the cylinders and make a little engine act like a big one (courtesy Garrett).

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Turbochargers Pt 1: The Rise of the Machines In WWII, turbocharging gave many of our warplanes, such as this Lockheed P-38 Lightning, superior performance at high altitudes (courtesy Airforce Image Gallery). management made naturally-aspirated engines so lively that the addition of turbochargers was deemed unnecessary, and their popularity waned.

Coming soon to a service bay near you lived. Turbos re-emerged in early 1970s on the German built BMW 2002 Turbo and Porsche 911 Turbo. Soon after that, turbocharged race cars were dominating every venue where they were legal. Beginning in the late ‘70s, most car manufacturers offered a model or two with turbochargers, but consumers didn’t readily accept the extra expense and the complications, nor the turbo lag inherent in those designs -- the power increase wasn’t enough to justify the handicaps. The shining exception to this was the Buick 3.8 V6 turbo, which was a great car all around. In 1978 the first turbocharged diesel engine passenger car, the Mercedes-Benz 300 SD was introduced, and in 1981 the VW Golf Turbodiesel became one of the most desirable cars in Europe. In 1980 the 301 Turbo Pontiac debuted. Turbocharged passenger cars became commercially viable. Soon, however, multiple valves, variable cam timing, and all the many performance benefits of electronic engine

Fred Agabashian led the ‘52 Indy 500 for almost 100 miles in a car powered by a turbocharged Cummins diesel (courtesy Cummins).

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Fast forward to the present day. With energy prices as they are, you can expect to see widespread use of turbocharging in the very near future. Turbo lag has been largely cured with ball bearing construction and high technology turbine designs, including variable vanes on the turbine side. VNTs (Variable Nozzle Turbines) have been in use for a few years on diesel pickups with the GM Duramax, the 6.0 and 6.4 liter Ford and the Cummins inline six. Turbocharging offers the power of a large engine on demand with the fuelsipping qualities of a much smaller engine during low power demands – the best of both worlds. As cleanburning catalyzed and particulate-controlled diesels make inroads, you can expect to see the turbocharger population continue to grow and flourish.

The players and the product Numerous companies manufacture turbochargers: Garrett, Banks, Borg-Warner, Cummins, Toyota, Rotomaster, Holset, IHI-Warner-Ishi, Rayjay, Schwitzer, Komatsu and Mitsubishi, to name a few.

The basic automotive and light truck turbocharger consists of an axial inflow, radial outflow compressor on the intake side coupled on a common shaft with a radial inflow, axial outflow turbine on the exhaust side. “Radial” and “axial” refer to the direction of gas movement. Punch the point of a pencil through the center of a cardboard circle. Radial flow would originate at the rim of the cardboard circle and move inward to the pencil where it penetrates the cardboard circle. Axial flow would originate where the pencil enters the cardboard and would move along the length of the pencil to the eraser end.

The heat and pressure of the exhaust side is harnessed in the turbine, which drives the compressor through the common shaft. The shaft may be supported by a pair of

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Turbochargers Pt 1: The Rise of the Machines bronze journal bearings and a separate thrust system, or by the newer ball bearing system with integral thrust control, and there are good reasons why the former is giving away to the latter. Ball bearing center housing rotating assemblies don’t need a separate thrust control system since the shouldered thrust faces of the two ball bearings are installed opposing each other, thus controlling thrust in both directions. Plus, ball bearings are more tolerant of lubrication shortcomings, and also spool up more quickly, dramatically reducing the dreaded turbo lag.

If you were looking for a word to describe turbochargers, that word would be “precise.” The turbine and compressor wheels are carefully positioned in their respective housings with .010-.020 in. of clearance to the contour bores. The precision-machined housings change in volume from inlet to outlet to maximize energy extraction on the turbine side and air movement on the compressor side. The size, shape and contour of the volutes (the spiral, scroll-shaped form of the housing that resembles a ram’s horn) are critical to turbocharger flow rates and efficiency.

By convention, the inlet of a turbine or compressor section is called the inducer section and the outlet the exducer section. A ratio of the relative sizes of the inducer and exducer sections is often expressed as a trim number, helpful in sizing the turbo correctly. Since

space limitations restrict the use of a more efficient axial-only turbocharger, blade shapes on the turbine and compressor wheels are engineered to reduce the losses generated as gases make the 90 degree turn through the housing. Turbine blade shape constricts at the exducer to extract maximum power from gases that are gradually slowing and cooling. Viewed on end, a turbine blade suspiciously resembles an airfoil -- there’s a lot going on here!

Inlet pressure on the turbine (hot) side is generally within a few pounds of the actual boost, about 15-20 psi, which translates into a pressure drop of about 1318 psi across the turbine wheel at full load if the exhaust system backpressure is two pounds. Expect full load temperatures to drop about 300 deg. F. from a 1,2001,500 deg. inlet reading. It’s that temperature and pressure drop across the turbine wheel that provides the energy necessary to spin the compressor.

On the compressor side, the amount of boost is controlled by a wastegate, or by a variable nozzle arrangement on the turbine side. The wastegate is a simple bypass system. Inlet pressure is routed over to a spring-loaded diaphragm that opens a passage to bleed exhaust gas around the turbine. Less flow and heat through the wheel means slower turbine speed, hence slower compressor speed and less inlet pressure.

Simple and elegant.

Here’s the basic layout, cool side on the left, hot side on the right (courtesy Garrett).

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Variable Nozzle Turbines (VNTs) don’t need a wastegate.

Instead, a system of vanes is used to limit and/or change exhaust flow. Here, the vanes are closed, which allows the fastest possible turbine speed.

In this photo, the vanes are open, which slows turbine speed to control boost.

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Turbochargers Pt 1: The Rise of the Machines The VNT system eliminates the wastegate. Vanes mounted on pins and connected by linkage are actuated together to limit exhaust flow or change gas direction through the inducer of the turbine wheel, slowing the rate of rotation and reducing boost.

Speed r esponse when thr ottle is suddenly opened at 2000 r pm ( 2 litr e S.I engine ) 2500

T urbo s peed (Hz )

2000 1500 B all B earings S leeve B earings

1000 500 0 -0.2

0

0.4

0.8 T ime (s )

1.2

1.6

2

One of the advancements that makes the newest turbos far better than older versions is ball bearings. Lag is reduced and durability is much better than with plain journal bearings (courtesy Garrett).

Imagine the engineering and manufacturing processes that went into this sophisticated compressor wheel.

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It’s pretty obvious what we’re doing here. If you open the gate, exhaust gases bypass the turbine wheel, slowing shaft speed and reducing boost.

Limits There are limits to per-liter internal combustion power output, no matter how exotic the materials and build techniques. With turbocharging (or supercharging, for that matter), you risk changing the timing of the intake valve closing event, taking the engine to detonation, or finding the mechanical limits of the head gasket, block, fasteners, or cylinder head.

There’s a great picture on the Internet of a tractor puller who yanked the block of his six-cylinder engine in two just where the head studs stopped in the block when his boost gauge hit 300 psi! Let’s see, 300 psi times 16:1 is . . . a helluva lot of pounds of force!

Potential intake valve closure issues are really only a problem in all-out performance applications unless there’s a failure that creates unregulated boost. In high-performance applications, valve closure issues are overcome by design: limit the boost, increase valve spring pressure, keep intake valve diameter down, grind the cam for boost application, or modify the rpm band. Assuming cylinder pressure is zero, a two-inch valve with 15 psi intake boost only has about 50 pounds of force counteracting the valve spring. But our pulling tractor at 300 psi? Assuming it’s a four-cycle engine, that same two inch valve would need almost 1,040 pounds of spring pressure just to overcome inlet pressure. n

Next time, we’ll look at failure modes, troubleshooting, and repair alternatives.

Lifting a vehicle is the most dangerous part of your job, and you do it every day. Never forget that!

by Wade Nelson

Lift Safety and

Productivity

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With its heavy engine, this Jag clearly illustrates that the middle of the vehicle may have nothing to do with its center of gravity (courtesy Mohawk).

T

his is so important to the in-the-trenches tech that we’re going to skip the intro and cut to the chase with some high-impact points:

• If you’re interrupted before completing a lift, recheck the position of all four lift arms. Someone may have bumped one walking by, or while dragging a piece of equipment past it.

• The weight of the vehicle, not the length of it, should be centered on a two-post lift. This is referred to as the vehicle’s “center of gravity.”

• Re-initializing a “low rider” can be time-consuming, so be sure and turn off air ride suspensions on SUVs before lifting.

• Before raising a four-poster drive-on or alignment lift always set the parking brake and/or insert wheel chocks.

• Alldata and www.autozone.com, among other service information providers, offer lifting instructions for many vehicles. Perhaps the best up-to-date source for lifting points is the Vehicle Lift Points Guide offered by the Automotive Lift Institute, the trade association of manufacturers and marketers of automotive lifts. The guide can be purchased at www.autolift.org.

Don’t shoot from the hip, especially if you’re not familiar with a particular vehicle, such as this mid-engine Lotus.

• Owner’s manuals typically illustrate lifting points and air suspension switch locations. If you’re not familiar with the model, take the time to check the glove compartment or consult your service information provider.

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Lift Safety and Productivity It doesn’t get much more solid than this. You want to feel confident about every lift point.

Be especially careful when a lifting point is right up against the gas tank.

Leaving anything under any lift overnight is asking for trouble.

• Using the manufacturer’s designated lift points not only prevents vehicle damage, it ensures you get a balanced lift.

• Inspect and confirm that the lift’s saddles/contact points are centered on the vehicle’s jacking points before you entirely raise the vehicle.

Do you have all the necessary attachments and adapters for safe lifting handy?

• An inspection mirror on a stick and a flashlight will eliminate much of the kneeling and lying down required to inspect jacking points.

• Rock the vehicle’s bumper while the vehicle is only inches off the ground to determine if you’ve got a stable lift.

• Puncturing a gas tank adjacent to a frame rail will ruin your entire day. If necessary, have a helper run the lift while you guide the contact point.

• Make sure the lift you’re using is rated for the weight of today’s larger trucks.

• A lift with broken safety features probably hasn’t been well maintained either. Don’t use it until it’s fixed, lubed, adjusted, etc.

• A lift with arms too short to reach the manufacturer’s

Given the burgeoning bulk of some newer pickups, are you sure you know how much you’re actually lifting?

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recommended jacking points on extra-long trucks should warn you that you may not be able to properly balance the load on the lift. An unbalanced load can not only result in a deadly tip-off, but may rip a lift out of the concrete.

10,000 LB. CLEAR FLOOR 2 POST LIFT

MODEL SYSTEM I

TO MEET THE ONE AND ONLY NATIONAL STANDARD FOR VEHICLE LIFTS

MOHAWK

Americas Best Lift Investment...

Because Quality Lasts A Lifetime Made and welded in the U.S.A.

Lift Safety and Productivity • Always lower the lift onto the safeties before getting

• Any time you’ve got an “iffy” lift, use screw jacks, tranny

underneath the vehicle.

• Using a cheater bar can apply hundreds of pounds of force and cause the vehicle to move. Consider in what direction it’s possibly going to move. You should always lower the vehicle before you apply leverage forces, or use an impact gun.

• Use the proper lift attachments so you don’t damage the vehicle’s ground effects, rocker panels, etc. Lift a vehicle as if it were your own.

• Hydraulic lifts can sag overnight. Don’t leave things like oil drains or tool carts underneath or you could arrive in the morning to find a disaster. If your lift is equipped with safety locks, be sure to lower the vehicle onto the locks before leaving for the night.

• As the vehicle’s wheels approach waist height, shift your gaze to the ceiling /overhead safety bar to prevent damage [Editor’s note: We once left a van’s door open, which knocked two eight-foot fluorescent tubes out of a light fixture, resulting in broken glass spread over what seemed like acres].

• Can’t seem to get a good lift on a particular vehicle?

Ask a more experienced tech or the shop foreman/ owner for help. Nothing’s worse than dropping a vehicle. It’ll do a lot more damage to your flat rate situation and reputation than having the humility to first seek advice.

jacks, etc. to help stabilize and secure the vehicle.

• When doing something that could cause the vehicle to lurch or bounce, like stabbing a manual transmission through a clutch disk, use screw jacks at both the front and rear of the chassis to stabilize the vehicle.

• Bouncing can cause lift bolts to rip free from the floor, or it could bend or break a lift arm.

• A vehicle can become unbalanced if something heavy is removed, such as a rear differential. Use a screw jack at one or both ends of the chassis.

Installing a screw jack at one end (on this trailer hitch, for example) will compensate for the removal of a heavy component, such as a rear axle.

• Throw away those wood blocks! For safety – and productivity – eliminate this risky way of adjusting vehicles on lifts. If adapters are needed, obtain the proper adapters fro the lift manufacturer and be sure use the right ones for the vehicle you are servicing – or, have alterations and modifications made to the lift to accommodate a variety of vehicles. Also, your shop’s insurance provider may not cover accidents when wooden adapters are used.

• If you have to put a vehicle on and off a lift repeatedly, mark a chalk line on the floor where the front tire should be for fast relocation. Paint permanent lines for popular vehicles. Some lifts offer devices to aid in spotting vehicles for quick lift setup.

• Keys left in the ignition, even if the ignition is off, will discharge many batteries, especially if left overnight. Always leave a window rolled down.

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If the arms won’t reach, they won’t reach. Face it.

• Safely servicing longer, wider, or lower vehicles may require investing in a new lift. Arms that can’t reach factory lift points are a warning sign.

• When lowering a vehicle, keep an eye on it to make sure it remains level. If a safety doesn’t disengage on one post, a vehicle can tilt sideways and fall over. At the very least, it will be damaged as it tilts against the post.

• Watch your feet when lowering a vehicle -- keep them out from under lift arms. Steel toe boots won’t save you.

• Having to re-center a vehicle, or rolling it forward or backwards, even having to set it back down several times in order to obtain a good lift isn’t a sign you’re incompetent. Instead, it says you’re intelligent enough to take the time you need to avoid injury!

Lift Productivity While safety has to be the Number One priority when lifting vehicles, lift productivity is important, too. After spending five minutes rolling around on the ground getting a car or truck safely centered on a two-poster lift, it’s hard not to consider the time spent “wasted.”

It’s unbillable time to any flat-rater. Familiarity with certain vehicles speeds the process, but having the right lift for the job can also shave hours from the time techs spend each month achieving safe lifts.

Four Corners Short of a drive-over pit, a drive-on four-poster is the most productive solution for LOF and certain other under-car services. It’s drive on, drive off. There’s no looking up or searching for jacking points. It’s the easiest kind of lift for new personnel to use safely. The ramps typically double as safety stops, tilting as the lift goes up.

In addition, if there’s a need to powerbrake or otherwise apply torque to a drivetrain while viewing beneath the vehicle it can be safely done on a four-poster. Very long vehicles, and those with extremely low ground clearance may have trouble with a lift’s approach angle; typical shop solutions are supplemental ramps.

Adding jacking beams to a four-poster increases its flexibility even further. They allow the wheels to be lifted off the runways, for tire rotations, balancing, and other common services. There’s still a speed advantage over a two-poster, since the tech can actually see the vehicle’s lifting points while locating the beams and saddles without getting on the ground.

Four-post lifts with open front ends provide greater access to the engine and front suspension area, thereby speeding up the service and improving productivity.

Two-Posters Two-posters do the bulk of the lifting in the repair business. They take the weight off the wheels, which is useful when working on suspension components, or needing to spin wheels/hubs, such as when diagnosing

A four-post lift may be the most productive type for certain under-car services (courtesy Rotary Lift).

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Lift Safety and Productivity

In terms of numbers, and perhaps versatility, nothing beats the two-post lift (courtesy Mohawk).

ABS sensors, or flushing transmissions. They’re flexible, and with an assortment of extensions can work on a wide variety of vehicle types, lengths, and heights.

They take up a lot less floor space, too.

They also provide the greatest working space beneath the vehicle for clutch and transmission work. But, they typically can take the longest to safely “load” a vehicle. An added five minutes per vehicle may cost you a half hour a day in otherwise billable hours.

The other downside is that the posts can be in the way of the vehicle’s door. Repeatedly getting in or out without nicking the customer’s paint job creates even more unbillable time. The alternative is worse. Some manufacturers offer specially-designed lift arms to offset the vehicle to avoid this problem.

Scissor Lifts Scissor lifts with rocker panel contact are becoming enormously popular (especially in tire stores) because of their drive-on, drive-off nature, weight off the wheels, and low approach angles. There are no posts to bang into, in most cases you get a totally secure lift immediately, and the rubber pads are easy to place if you want to be absolutely sure of not damaging the car. On the other hand, the ramps can be pretty steep, which makes for lots of tire squealing, access down the middle is restricted, and many don’t offer the full height you may be used to. Also, inexperienced staff may damage the ground effects found on many vehicles today if proper extensions aren’t used.

El Gordo

Scissor lifts like this one are fast, secure, and leave the wheels free (courtesy Bendpack).

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Crew-cab, extended length trucks pose the biggest lift challenge to shops today. Many two-post lifts’ arms can’t reach far enough to put their saddle points beneath the manufacturer’s specified jacking points. This risks creating an unbalanced lift. You get an unbalanced lift, and perhaps some shop floor concrete that wasn’t as thick, or as well reinforced as it should have been, and, as the shop where the editor of Master Technician was working recently found out the expensive way, a post can rip right out of the floor. Shops that plan to service these big rigs need a suitably big lift to do so safely.

European vehicles tend to be getting wider, and several domestic “low riders” like the Corvette, Cadillac SLR and Solstice can only be properly lifted, using factory

lifting points, with 3-stage arms. Several vehicles like the MINI Cooper and Lotus Elise require careful attention to factory lifting instructions; a cursory glance won’t do. Having the proper lifting information available can minimize the time spent looking up correct lift points.

A Note on In-Ground Lifts In-ground lifts were once the most popular type of lifts, especially with new car dealers. Because of the environmental impact of leaking underground tanks experienced decades ago, new, methods of lifting vehicles were developed. Today, compact, powerful hydraulic systems offer less expensive lifts that don’t require EPA inspections and the associated costs of in-ground lifts. Although modern in-ground lifts offer productivity, they are more expensive to purchase and install and lack the versatility and portability of other types. While in-ground lifts are still the benchmark of vehicle lifting, most aftermarket service facilities opt for the two-post, four-post and scissor types.

Who’s keeping an eye on those cables and chains, among other things?

Lastly, lift service and maintenance is critical. A lift that hasn’t been inspected, or serviced, poses a direct threat to life and limb, not to mention customer property. Find out what the scheduled maintenance is on the lifts in your shop. Call the manufacturer if you need to request a replacement copy of the inspection and maintenance guide. Licensed, professional, independent inspectors are available who will come out and check your lifts on a regular basis, or you can pay the lift manufacturer or designated agent to inspect and/or service it. Compared to a single lift accident, it’s ultra-cheap insurance. n

The Automotive Lift Institute The Automotive Lift Institute (ALI) is the association of lift manufacturers and marketers that promotes the safe design, construction, installation, service, and use of automotive lifts.

Accordingly, ALI certifies the quality of lifts manufactured by its members.

The organization offers reference and training materials, such as the Vehicle Lifting Points Guide, which shows proper lifting points for over domestic and imported 200 vehicles covering the last 20 years.

Additionally, ALI supplies several handy and helpful training and safety materials. For more information, visit www.autolift.org.

The ALI certification label appears on lifts to signify adherence to the highest standards of manufacturing and safety (courtesy ALI).

The ALI Vehicle Lifting Points Guide gives correct lifting points and diagrams for over 200 automobiles and light trucks (courtesy ALI).

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Doing Domestic J2534 Reflashing Our man Phil gives us the most hands-on, real-deal info on this important topic we’ve ever seen. Nobody else even comes close

Here’s Phil’s rolling set-up. Note the i-Flash unit on the cart rail, and the printer.

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by Phil Fournier

I

don’t know about you, but I’m a tool collecting addict. I determined that recently after taking a few of my scan tools out to the college where I teach. One of the students asked me how much the stuff I had brought was worth, and I did a quick mental calculation and came up with $26,000. Now, a beancounter would want to know how I realize a return on that kind of investment. I have to confess I work pretty hard to rationalize my way around the question since part of the enjoyment I get out of my job lies in collecting and using cool tools, with no one to tell me I can’t.

But having recognized my propensity toward tool collecting, I have also realized that some tools must be self-sustaining from an economic standpoint, and that was true of the J2534 reflash tool. Since its use is limited to reprogramming of computers (with some minor exceptions), I had to be able to demonstrate that I would be able to turn it into cash flow for the company.

In order to realize this objective, I set out to determine if I could do enough reprogramming to make the tool pay for itself and earn a profit for the shop. Also, I had to consider whether or not there might be an alternative way to do it. In the end, I decided to buy the tool along with the entire collection of off-board programming adapters so that I could offer the service to other shops in the area without them having to bring the vehicle in.

I also bought a stand-alone laptop computer, a rolling cart, a universal power supply, and a printer. This article will detail my journey and the results of my two years in the reprogramming business.

Why should I? Of all the questions surrounding this subject, the one that seems most important to an independent shop from the standpoint of profitability is, “Why should I reprogram?” I posed the question for a couple of years on iATN and got conflicting responses. Some shops ask all their customers if they would like to have their vehicles’ computers checked for updates, similar to the updates performed by Microsoft on the Windows operating system. Other shops check for service bulletins relating to specific customer complaints that might include a reflash of the computer. Still other shops only use the equipment if they need to replace a module that doesn’t come with the proper calibration.

While all three approaches are valid, in my opinion the first is the only way for an independent shop to realize a return on the investment in the tool and the software.

Because a computer reflash is a one-way street (once you do it, you cannot return to an earlier calibration in most, if not all, cases), some shops say this is a dangerous route to take. If the customer should complain about something relating to the new program, there is no way to roll back to the old calibration and one would be left with an unhappy customer. I recognize this as a valid concern, but I have found that those who have done a lot of reflashing have not had complaints.

GM makes the reprogramming process especially convenient.

It’s easy to zero in on available updates, and, especially important, what they address.

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Doing Domestic J2534 Reflashing Checking for computer calibration updates So, how do you find out if updates are available for the vehicle in question? This is an important question for me, having established that I need to know what a calibration is likely to do for a client before I try to sell it to him or her. All three domestic manufacturers have taken different routes towards providing that information. We’ll look at all three and see what works the best.

GM calibration information GM has been using erasable and reprogrammable PROMs in its PCMs since the early 1990s, even before OBD II, and seems to have the process down to a pretty good science. Entering the vehicle VIN, or the calibration ID from the scan tool into the website http://tis2web.service.gm.com/tis2web gives pretty much all the information that is needed, and quite painlessly at that. Just as an example, I typed in the VIN of my newly-acquired (used) Duramax Diesel: 1GTHC23191F145840. Comparing the calibration ID pulled from the scan tool (15076142), the website tells me that I am behind in my updates and that there are two more recent releases. But most importantly, it tells me exactly what those updates are for. One says “New calibration to reduce roughness on hard acceleration above 2,600 RPM,” while the second says “New calibration to address excessive shifting with cruise on and idle surge.” As I do have some idle surging, I may want to do a reflash on my own PCM. And this is exactly how we present the subject to the customer -we tell him or her what the flash is supposed to do and ask if he or she would like to have it done.

The downside of the GM reflash is that, at least as of this writing, there is no provision for purchasing the calibrations in any form but yearly at the web site straight from AC Delco, which will do a number on a $1,000 bill. A calibration subscription can be bought for the J2534 tool at a lower cost than that for the Tech 2, so I guess that is something. I have been hearing constant rumors that GM was to make downloadable calibrations at a daily rate available, so I’m going to guess that such will someday be the case.

Ford is different Ford’s method of determining reflash availability is more cumbersome, unless you already have the J2534 tool hooked up to the vehicle and also have a current subscription to the website

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Phil says, “If you look down in the right corner of the screen, you can see I’ve entered the TSB number. This is in the pay section of the DC website, TechAuthority.com. On the right side it shows the list of possible PCM calibrations that apply to that particular TSB and I’ve selected the number 5640148AH, which applies to a California Automatic. At this point the download process is complete as you can read in the lower right side of the screen.

www.motorcraftservice.com. Ford works off a number that is affixed to the PCM connector, or sometimes on the door post, called a “catchword.” An Excel spreadsheet file is downloadable for free off the website, and using the “Find” feature under the “Edit” menu, you can determine if updates are available for that particular PCM. There are some obvious shortcomings to this approach. First, the catchword is on a paper tag that is glued to the PCM and may or may not be easy to find and read after a number of years. Second, it identifies only the original flash; you cannot tell from the catchword what updates have already been done. Third, only about 10% of the part numbers listed have a TSB connected to them, so that leaves you with no idea what the reflash is supposed to do in most cases. There is a part number that can be pulled out of the PCM with a scan tool, but I have yet to find one of those numbers listed in the Excel spreadsheet, so that

approach has never worked for me. What I do is keep my subscription current on the Ford website. At $60 a month, or $595 a year, it is not exactly cheap, but it is less expensive than the Chrysler equivalent at $200 a month or $1,500 a year. With a current subscription to the website, this allows me to let the tool connect to the vehicle and tell me if a later flash is available, and, more importantly, tell me exactly what the flash is designed to do. I can print out this information and give it to the office staff so they can sell the job to the customer.

Chrysler, too Finding calibration updates for Chrysler is easier than for Ford, but slightly more difficult than for GM. It requires the use of the scan tool to extract the PCM part number. That number (which always ends in two letters, such as AD) will cross over on the downloadable PDF file to a possible new part number that will have different letters on the end (such as AG). The PDF file is about 250 pages long and contains every part number (old and new) available, with a column next to the part numbers listing the service bulletin applicable to the new part number.

Once I have the service bulletin number, I do a search in Identifix.com (approximately $130 a month -- you can also use Mitchell or Alldata, but I’ve found their collection of bulletins to be incomplete in some cases). The TSB will tell me what the flash is supposed to correct. One note of caution: I have run into several PCM part numbers that were not on the list at all. Apparently, these PCMs are not updateable.

Paying None of the manufacturers offers calibration files for free. As mentioned above, GM at present requires the purchase of a yearly subscription. At $200 a month, Chrysler is too expensive for me to buy on a monthly basis, so I buy it one day at a time for $20. The one day purchase actually gives me 72 hours, so on one occasion I was able to get two downloads for the price of one. That $20 also gives access to Chrysler’s entire website, so I downloaded the files for all of the Chrysler mode $06 information while I was there.

Ford calibration files, at $60 a month, or $20 a day, are a bit more reasonable, but that is all you get. Access to other items on the website carries an additional charge, including service bulletins. And for those of you who happen to have the Ford factory tool, a PDS or IDS, note that though your current $500 a year subscription to your VCM includes calibration files, it DOES NOT allow you to download the very same files for use with a J2534 box.

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

57

Doing Domestic J2534 Reflashing

This screen just gives an idea of the DC software doing the flash by steps, which sometimes include the technician cycling the key on and off many times.

This Ford message means your subscription has expired.

58 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

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Doing Domestic J2534 Reflashing J2534 equipment I’m going to make this as simple as possible and simply give you a list here: A J2534 box. There are quite a few available. Their capabilities range from reflash only, to reflash plus PATS functions (Ford Anti-Theft), to a reflash plus a generic scan tool. As my goal was to have a unit that could be used by a less-experienced tech with low computer literacy skills, I bought the Blue Streak i-Flash unit because its software interfaces fairly well with the factory software and includes some very good help information.

A Pentium 4 or M computer, 30GB or larger hard drive, running Windows XP Professional (not XP Home) with 512mb of RAM and Internet Explorer 6.0. The manufacturers are lagging behind with compatibility with Windows Vista and IE 7.0. My solution was to buy an off-lease laptop with XP Pro. You must also have at least two USB ports and preferably four if you want to have a printer plugged in. If you want support for the GM program from Vetronix, don’t buy a cheaper AMD or Celeron processor, or a hard drive smaller than 30GB. It might work just fine, but if you have a problem, they will not help you.

A universal power supply -- the J2534 box cannot be losing electrical power in the middle of a reflash.

A cart to keep the unit portable so you can get close to the ignition key. I counted key cycles once on a Chrysler reflash, and I turned the key on and off 12 times.

A high-speed Internet connection and preferably a wireless router (unless you want to drag a network cable behind your cart). Ford reflashing is only possible with a current connection to the Internet while doing the flash. GM and Chrysler do not require it, but even there you need the Internet to get your information on a GM and to download your files for a Chrysler.

Interface software specific to each manufacturer. This is different from your J2534 software. Ford software, made

by Teradyne, is downloadable for free. Chrysler software is inside the pay section of the site, but you are ready to buy a calibration by the time you are there anyway. GM software is TIS2WEB and is part of the online program. It has to reload every time you do a flash, a rather irritating aspect of the GM web-based program.

A jumper battery, or a special flat-line DC voltage battery charger (Midtronics makes several models).

The point here is that you don’t want the battery running down (those pesky DRLs that don’t shut off with the parking brake) while you are doing the reflash and you can’t hook up your conventional charger as it leaks AC voltage.

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A set of off-board programming cables if you want to be able to flash on the bench.

The above is going to set you back a few thousand, plus some monthly costs that are ongoing, so do your math first unless you just want to stay in the tool collecting business.

Potential pitfalls I would be remiss if I did not give some warnings here about doing this service. The learning curve is steep, so be sure you buy your J2534 box from someone who promises you full support. The first New Generation Controller I reflashed in a Chrysler went up in the proverbial smoke. To this day I have no idea why, but the PCM had to be replaced. There are idiosyncrasies that come up during a reflash that are hard to anticipate, but I’ll give you a list of some of those I have seen so you can be forewarned: Your Ford website subscription has expired and you don’t know it. The software gives you this lovely cryptic message, “The diagnostic tester failed HTTP file transfer. Call the Diagnostic Tool Hotline for assistance if necessary.” This particular unhelpful message is probably due to the fact that the software was “retrofitted” from use with the Ford-specific WDS to work with J2534. There are more like that, be assured.

You start the reflash and the software wants to know if the vehicle is equipped with a PATS security system.

You don’t know and now you are in a bit of a panic to

Make sure you turn off Windows Automatic Updates before beginning the reprogramming procedure. Ditto for your firewall and screen saver.

find out. I am pretty sure I have incorrectly identified the existence or lack thereof of a security system, yet the flash went just fine, but it does raise the level of anxiety.

You are flashing a Ford Powerstroke and the software tells you to remove the FICM relay. But you can’t find the FICM relay because the underhood component locater doesn’t look anything like what the picture shows. Besides, the software is about to reprogram the FICM. How can it possibly do so without the relay being installed? The rest of the story? I reflashed without removing the relay and everything worked just fine.

But on subsequent flashes on Powerstrokes, I figured out where the FICM relay was first and removed it.

You finished the reflash, and the software wants to know what the ratio of the final drive unit is. Most likely, you have no idea.

You finished the reflash, and the GM software tells you that you need to do a CASE relearn. Huh? Well, now you have to find out how to do that.

You are in the middle of a reflash and your computer starts downloading Windows updates. Yuck! The key to this problem is prevention. Shut off automatic updates, turn off your firewall, turn off your screen savers, make your anti-virus program manually operated, and don’t load anything else on that laptop except what is necessary to run the reprogramming programs. Do not share the computer on your shop’s

network. Naturally, you have to connect to the network if you are sharing an Internet connection, and that is not a problem. What you want to make sure of is that you have file and printer sharing turned off.

You have extracted the part number from a Chrysler computer and you run a search for it in the PDF file.

It is simply not there. The reason? It is a replacement PCM and it is not reprogrammable. This has happened to me on three occasions.

If all of these warnings make you feel a bit queasy, welcome to the club. Reprogramming is not for the faint of heart. It works and it is doable, but no one should claim that it is a piece of cake. The rewards, though, can be real. I had a customer with a ‘99 Merc Grand Marquis that had had a pinging problem for years that I could not resolve with customary methods of verifying EGR operation and carbon removal.

Once I got the reflash software, I searched and found a service bulletin (99-15-5) relating to a pinging issue and addressing it with a reflash. That reprogram saved the customer the cost of running premium fuel and saved me from years of frustration.

A second good example is the reflash of the 6.0l Ford Powerstroke for a cold misfire. I’d never have believed that problem could be fixed with a reflash.

It might work for you, too. n

“This is what I call the ‘big relief screen’ because it says ‘Reprogramming completed successfully.’

I still run a little scared on Chryslers, having somehow failed on one to complete the flash successfully and ended up with a non-operative PCM that could not be fixed,” Phil tells us.

Voltage Drop Testing

By Wade Nelson

Yeah, you’ve heard it before, but we take a different approach.

A

voltage drop occurs any time current flows through resistance. In the automotive service world, the term “voltage drop” traditionally refers to an undesired drop in voltage that interferes with the proper operation of a circuit. Voltage drops result from resistances that don’t appear on the schematic, such as dirty switch contacts, corroded connectors and battery cable clamps, wornout relays, bad grounds, and undersized wiring.

We continually hear that there’s a high percentage of techs out there who don’t have a firm grasp of electrical theory (probably because it’s difficult to comprehend the invisible), and this is particularly true where voltage drop testing is concerned. The concept is somewhat subtle, so lots of people don’t really understand it. So, we’ll state it a little differently at the risk of some redundancy. Any load in a circuit, whether intentional (an accessory) or unintentional (a bad connection), will use up voltage, and a measurement taken across that load reflects the amount.

Where you can get confused is that you’re in parallel along some segment of a circuit, and since you’re used to looking for voltage between the feed side and ground, it seems sort of strange that there’d be a reading in parallel. The thing to learn is that the load absorbs some voltage, so there’ll be a DIFFERENCE between what’s available on one side and the other. What you’re reading is that difference.

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Small Ohms, Big Drops Voltage drop testing provides a method of hunting down “parasitic” resistances by measuring the voltage drop that occurs as a current passes through them.

Voltage drops are typically caused by extremely low resistances on the order of .1, .01, or even .001 ohms.

A common question at this point is, “Why not simply switch my meter to ohms and measure resistance directly?” The best way to answer that is with a simple example of static vs. dynamic states. Suppose you have a #6 multi-strand wire between the battery negative post and a ground on the engine block, and the connections are perfectly clean. If you open the insulation and snip all but one tiny strand, then measure ohms you’ll see no resistance — that single strand of copper will pass plenty of current to get the meter to read.

But what happens when you engage the dynamic state by trying to crank the engine? Well, there’s no way that little electrical path will be able to pass hundreds of amps, and it’ll burn itself open resulting in infinite resistance. It’s no-load vs. load, what happens when a circuit is asked to actually operate. And the same applies even to small wires and connections. Also, it turns out it’s much easier to measure the voltage drop across a low resistance than it is to measure the

resistance itself because digital multi-meters (DMMs) are much more accurate at measuring voltages down to millivolts than they are at measuring resistances below one ohm. So, voltage drop testing is the only real-world way of looking for excessive resistance.

When you measure a voltage drop, you connect one lead of your DMM to the post of the battery, and measure the voltage drop moving along that “leg” of the circuit towards the load. Moving away from the battery, you successively measure the voltage remaining at each switch, wire run, connector, relay, etc. until you determine which component is adding the excessive voltage drop to the circuit. When a voltage drop occurs on the negative, or ground, side of a circuit, raising that part of the circuit above 0.0 volts or “ground,” it’s traditionally referred to as a “bad ground.”

Approaching Perfection Voltage drops can cause an infinite number of problems: Yellow headlights, slow power windows, window defrosters that don’t work, undercharging,

intermittent PCM failures, and engine sensor misreadings are a few. Voltage drops in the starter circuit cause the starter not to spin as fast as it should, or develop as much torque, resulting in premature starter failures. Since they’re big and relatively visible, starter circuits have always provided the classic example for teaching the technique of measuring voltage drop.

Minimal corrosion between a battery cable clamp and post, which sometimes can’t even be seen until you remove the clamp, can add .01 ohms (or more) of resistance. Compared to a glove box lamp, at seven ohms or so, this resistance seems so miniscule as to be unimportant. But is it? When cranking the engine with 150 amps flowing, an added resistance of .01 ohms will produce a voltage drop of 1.5 volts. (150A x .01 ohms = 1.5 V). So, instead of the starter receiving a full 12.6 volts, it receives only 11.1.

Using a DMM set on D.C. volts, you can quickly measure any drop through a battery terminal connection under cranking. Simply touch one probe to the battery post itself, stabbing it into the soft lead, touch the clamp with the other probe, then crank the engine with a remote starter switch. Any voltage drop over .1 volts is too much — clean those terminals. Next, measure the voltage at the solenoid stud, then at the starter motor connection to see how much resistance the cabling and solenoid contacts are adding (solenoids do wear out).

Your basic, traditional test, but After you’re done with the what’s that emergency clamp solenoid stud, check at the doing in there? Don’t make a half- starter motor input. way repair, replace the cable.

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Voltage Drop Testing When the alternator (we’re still having trouble calling that component a “generator”) attempts to charge a battery through corroded battery terminals, it’s going to have to work harder, and raise its output voltage even higher to achieve the same desired level of charging. Are you selling battery service every single time you see corroded terminals? You should be. You’re not doing your customers any favors by allowing them to burn out starters and alternators. By the way, we often see Asian cable clamps that can’t be tightened enough for a secure, resistance-free connection. Either replace the cable, or pound a piece of large-diameter solder flat, wrap it around the battery post as a sort of bushing, then install the clamp.

and adding resistance — pure gold doesn’t tarnish.

A TSB on some Fords, which were setting seat belt pretensioner codes, was caused by contacts that lacked sufficient gold plating. When an airbag or pretensioner squib offers only 2-3 ohms of resistance, the last thing you want is 1-2 ohms of unwanted resistance in the connector itself, which could potentially reduce the firing voltage enough to cause the airbag not to deploy!

To continue our “How much voltage drop is acceptable?” line, if you have a throttle position sensor that varies between .2 and 4.8 volts, you certainly don’t want .2 volts or more of voltage drop in that circuit misleading the PCM as to how far down the driver is actual pushing the pedal. For headlight or taillight circuits, a 3% voltage drop, or .36V, through the switches and wiring was traditionally considered acceptable. Since the voltage drop is determined by the amperage (V=IR), high amp circuits such as those for starting and charging should have the least resistance of all. That’s why they use heavy gauge cables, which minimize the voltage drop through the wiring itself.

In the past, automotive designers tried to keep voltage losses due to wiring resistance down to 3% or less. But that was before airbags, sensors, and computers. A figure of 1% is more appropriate for today’s cars.

Return to “Earth,” as the Brits Say

Regardless of what any chart may say, we always want to see as little V-drop as possible.

This is a good reading for anything. You should never see absolute zero, however, because nothing is ever perfect.

If you do, something’s wrong with your meter, or you haven’t made a connection.

Good as Gold Electrical components such as relays and mechanical switches, which have metal contacts, necessarily add a small amount of resistance to a circuit. When manufacturers gold plate contacts and connectors, as they’re required to do on all airbag systems, it’s to prevent any oxidation whatsoever from forming

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A bad ground mimics a resistor inserted in series between a circuit and its ground connection. A ring terminal loosely attached to the body, or sitting on top of fresh paint and primer, can offer anywhere from .001 ohms to infinite resistance – sometimes changing value while bouncing down the road, or when it gets wet. Bad grounds can’t be spotted merely by looking at them, or tugging on the wires. You need to either measure grounds for voltage drop, or completely disassemble them and look for corrosion, paint that wasn’t ground off underneath, etc. Installing a fresh, non-oxidized star washer is always a good idea.

Picture a bad ground adding a resistance of 1.0 ohm. If a circuit consumes 30 milliamps, then the bad ground is going to reduce the voltage to that circuit by .03 volts. If you measured from the battery to that bad ground, instead of seeing 12.6 volts, you’d see 12.57.

That’s because the “ground” is no longer at 0.0 volts — it’s been elevated to .03V. Another source of resistance that techs sometimes forget about is the chassis of the car itself. It’s not gold, silver, or copper, which are good conductors. It’s steel, which is only a mediocre conductor. A ground lead

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T e c h n i c i a n s

Voltage Drop Testing

Bare metal and a fresh star washer at any ground will make the world a happier place. We should mention, though, that there’s a GM TSB out that says not to use star washers at ground connections on its cars. Go figure. fastened to the rear frame or body of a car is going to add several hundredths or even tenths of ohms of resistance compared to a copper wire run back to the negative battery post. Undersized do-it-yourself wiring on driving lamps, accessories, stereo amplifiers, etc. is another frequent cause of voltage drop.

You’ll never see the resistances of wire itself, fuses, sockets, switches, relay contacts, connectors, or the car’s body or chassis drawn on a schematic. Yet, they all add up.

Cold Defroster Let’s work through a real-world example, a rear window defroster on a Subaru that barely got the job started after a 10-mile commute. The battery is at 12.6 volts, but measuring across the connectors of the defroster shows only 10.2 volts, a voltage “droop” of 2.4 volts.

Clearly, this is why the defroster isn’t working worth a darn. Using a tenfoot test lead attached to the battery negative terminal, the positive side of the defroster shows 10.8 volts.

Using the same lead to the positive battery terminal, the ground side of the defroster shows 12.0 volts.

So, this circuit has both a 1.8 volt

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You can’t melt much ice with a 2.4V “droop.” Resistances in numerous locations added up. drop on the switched, positive side, and a bad ground producing .6 volts of drop, for a combined 2.4 volts.

The bad ground is quickly corrected with a little sandpaper and a star washer at the ground point inside the right rear fender. Re-measurement shows 12.55 volts, as close to perfect as you’re going to get.

Measurement at the defroster switch shows .4 volts of voltage drop right there. Moreover, there’s 1.4 volts of remaining voltage drop in the fuse block, firewall through-connectors, and ignition switch. For the sake of illustration, let’s do an end-run around all this and see what happens.

The existing defroster switch and wiring can supply more than sufficient voltage/current to flip a relay.

You need long DMM test leads to do body/chassis tests.

So a 30A-capable relay is installed in the rear quarter panel, and a 10AWG wire run directly from the battery (with an inline 20A fuse) to the input side of the relay.

The output of the relay is connected directly to the defroster. The ground side of the defroster is similarly rewired with a length of 10AWG wire. Now, voltage drop measurements at all points in the heavily-loaded circuit are nearly perfect.

The trouble with this car was that with a switch with worn or oxidized contacts, and numerous corroded connectors en route, there wasn’t one single “cause” of the voltage drop. The entire lighting circuit was “tired.”

This shows how drops can stack up.

We’re not for a moment suggesting that you should start cobbling up your own home-made circuits on your customers’ vehicles, but we think this example illuminates the basics of voltage drop.

Wacky Module Let’s work another voltage drop example to try to diagnose a module that’s behaving erratically. Imagine the module has two ground wires, two B+ wires, and an IGN feed. Why would it have two GND and two B+ feeds?

Because the wires in the harness, or the pins in the module connector, aren’t large enough to handle the amperage the module needs, so they’re “doubled up.”

Say you measured the following: GND1 to B+1 = 12.6 V; GND1 to B+2 = 12.6 volts. With the ignition on, GND2 to IGN is 8.7 volts.

Obviously, there’s a voltage drop from IGN to GND2.

The next thing to check would be voltage between GND1 and GND2. If it’s zero, then the problem is definitely with B+2. We expect GND1 to GND2 to be zero, because both grounds would normally be tied together inside the module itself. The next step would be to follow the IGN wire back to its source and determine what’s causing the voltage drop.

To Reiterate…

Voltage is the difference in electromotive force (EMF), or “potential” between any two points. That’s what you measure with a voltmeter (DMM), when you touch the leads to any two different points. Voltage drop is a loss of EMF compared to what’s available at the battery. If the battery is 50% charged (appx. 12.45 volts), and a circuit you are measuring across only shows 12.35

volts, there has been a voltage drop of .1 volts.

The loss is due to a resistance somewhere in the

If you think about it, you’ll realize that with the engine running the central ground on any car is the alternator case. wires, the switches, the connectors, the fuses, and so forth.

The diagnostic strategy to use when you encounter a voltage drop is to follow it back to the battery. You measure the voltage drop at each of a circuit’s switches, components, connectors, wire runs, etc. until you identify the component(s) with excessive resistance. So, in the Subaru example above, you’d first follow the wires from the defroster into the rear hatch, through the hinge, to the connector in the quarter panel. Measure the voltage drop there.

Then, you’d follow the wires to the connector in the passenger kick panel. Measure the voltage drop at that point. From there to the switch; from the switch to the ignition switch; from the ignition switch to the fusebox; from the fusebox to the firewall connector. From there, it’s a straight shot to the battery, where no further measurement is needed. Remember, after you “fix” a voltage drop be sure you retest to find out if you actually eliminated it. n

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Unitized Wheel Bearing Diagnosis

Unitized Wheel Bearing Diagnosis

Is it a CV, the diff, or a bearing?

I

­­­ the first successful domestic front wheel n drives, namely the Toronado and Eldorado, we simply adapted a traditional re-packable tapered roller bearing to the new concept.

Later, we pressed a wide double-roller ball bearing into a precision housing and retained it with a mechanical device such as a plate or flanged bolt. Modern unitized hub and bearing assemblies are pressed together and have the bearing races machined integrally into the hub.

That means the entire assembly must be replaced in a repair, but it also means one less part to think about.

It makes sense — why make a precision bore in a hub and press a precision bearing into that bore when you can just make one precision piece incorporating both?

Most, but not all, bearings used on front wheel drives or four wheel drives these days are unitized bearing and hub assemblies. There are some holdouts that are using a hub with a pressed bearing, but the trend favors the unitized bearing assembly. Since parts are sold at cost plus percentage, a higher production cost also means more dollars when sold, not to mention the savings a car maker enjoys when fewer parts have to be manufactured, inventoried, stocked and shipped.

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Above: This 1987 Olds Toronado front end uses traditional re-packable tapered roller bearings in the hub.

Note the retaining plate.

On more modern designs, the inner race is machined right into the inner hub. That’s one less part to worry about.

What’s that Noise?

Every sealed bearing fails eventually. Nearly all fail due to one or more of the “big four” maladies: brinelling, spalling, contamination, or lubrication failure. What is brinelling? It’s the indentation of a race in a ball or roller bearing usually due to a large static force (a hard hit). A brinelled bearing will show high ball/roller pass frequencies in its vibration spectrum (all those dents make it “busy”) and as the ball/roller passes the dents it tries to push them out of the way, leading to spalling and premature failure. How do you dent something as hard as a bearing? I don’t know how you do it where you live, but we have the Indiana Highway Department, also known as the Tank Trap Testing Group - Midwest division. They specialize in generating bearing and front end work, and techs all over the state are grateful.

see good information on bearing failure analysis, check out this link, compliments of our friends at Timken: www.timken.com/products/bearings/services/ valueadd/damageanalysis.asp

Diagnosis There’s only one way to determine which bearing is failing, and that’s a complete and thorough test drive.

The only exception to this rule is when the bearing is so completely wrecked that grabbing the tire and applying a rocking force shows excessive movement, or if the irregularity is so great that it can be felt when rolling the bearing by hand. In my experience, most bearings will be screaming loud long before you can detect the problem by hand.

Before you leave for your road test, check tire condition and inflation — there’s no point in wrecking the car by rolling a tire off the rim or overloading badly worn tires.

For an accurate diagnosis, you’ll need tires that aren’t cupped and an incline/decline somewhere on the test route to simulate most conditions. If you happen to run into four cupped tires that interfere with the diagnosis, try over-inflating them for the test drive. This will belly out the center of the tread and lift the shoulders up off the pavement, thus reducing the noise generated from cupping. Just don’t forget to account for the change in handling and to readjust inflation pressure when you’re done or you’ll get a new complaint involving a harsh ride that was never there before!

Failed seals and contaminated lubricants make short work of bearings. You can see the red cast to what’s left of the lube… that’s rust.­ Spalling describes a bearing race or ball/roller surface failure in which chips are shed from a contact point.

This occurs when the maximum shear stress isn’t just at the surface, but also just below, which leads to work hardening and flaking. If you could watch a loaded bearing at work, you’d see that each ball or roller pushes a wave of metal ahead of itself as it rolls along the race. Combined with dents, inclusions or lubrication failures, this leads to spalling. If you want to

The “12” indicates the 12 o’clock position when installed. You can clearly see a transfer smear at 10-11 o’clock, and spalling starting up at about 1:30-2:30.

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Bearing Diagnosis You’ll need two or three miles of decent road where you can maneuver hard to both port and starboard while on and off the gas – all without getting arrested.

Don’t just drive it down the road rolling the weight from side to side or you may miss some bearings in the early stages of destruction. Take a look at the picture of the bearing with the 12 o’clock indexed on the race.

I’ve taken several apart (indexing them before I remove them) and wear is not usually at the twelve o’clock position. It’s normally between 10 and 11 and 1 and 2 due to where the axles ride when normal loads are applied. You will want to decelerate on a downhill slope and accelerate on an uphill slope while swerving right to left to move the load before and after the 12 o’clock (static rest) position. The objective of the road test is to shift vehicle loads to the left and right with the side-toside swerve while simultaneously shifting load forward

and aft of the twelve o’clock position of bearing and race by changing the amount of applied engine torque.

Even under the very best of circumstances bearings in the early stages of failure can be hard to detect.

Sometimes you can’t shift the load hard enough or far enough to make the offending member protest and provide a conclusive diagnosis.

If you don’t have one yet, look into a Steelman Wireless ChassisEAR. I’ve never found its equal for finding undercar noises of all types. I use nylon wire ties to secure both transmitter and harness to the transducer well out of the way of rotating members. I also listen to both sides, since noise diagnosis is often a bit subjective. To make matters even more interesting, I’ve found several instances on higher mileage units where BOTH bearings were on the way out.

CV? Bearing? What?

CV joints are a whole lot more durable today than they once were. Even boot failures are fairly rare in my market given the number of front drivers out there.

Without a torn boot, I’ve rarely seen a CV fail unless it’s at extremely high mileage. Obviously, that might not

If you want to save yourself a ton of time, this is the tool to have. While I shot this using the included Velcro ties, I normally use nylon wire ties to secure the transmitters. Cheap insurance! Watch the routing, and watch out for steering component interference.

70 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

The trouble with this area of troubleshooting is that all the possible culprits live in close proximity to each other.

Your reputation is in your hands.

Protect it with premium hubs by SKF. As a supplier of original equipment hub units to most of the world’s automakers, SKF knows better than anyone what goes into making a premium quality hub unit.

So how can some manufacturers claim to offer OE quality hubs and sell them at half the price?

The truth is, they can’t.

To prove it, we purchased a large sampling of these so-called OE quality hubs currently available in the aftermarket. We examined every component, and then tested each hub to every one of its actual OE performance specifications.

The results were clear: these hubs were not OE quality hubs. They were “value” grade hubs, which are no real value. Not only do they fail quickly, they can result in excessive NVH (noise, vibration and harshness), braking and handling problems, and expose drivers to potential safety risks.

Don’t compromise your customer’s vehicle safety.

Always install SKF premium quality hubs!

See the results of our test at www.vsm.skf.com

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

71

Bearing Diagnosis The ABS sensor is just a tone ring, a ceramic magnet and a coil of wire (part of the magnet is broken out in this picture near the coil connector).

Not a likely source of noise.

be the case in your region. Extreme heat or cold, high annual miles traveled and environmental concerns like ground level ozone or airborne grit and sand will accelerate failures.

To determine which CV might be the problem, I’ve had greater success in circling slowly at full left and full right lock than with any other method. Any defect in the ball race or ball manifests itself because in full turns the extreme angle of the joint forces each ball in the joint to roll through its full range. Try turning the wheel manually on the lift for faint symptoms. I have seen a few front axles where the splines are pounded out of the joint, but, again, overall CV joint and boot failures are on the decline in my part of the world. If the inboard is a tri-pot, the major symptom of failure I’ve seen has been a really weird side-to-side waddle that occurs on acceleration and nearly goes away when the torque is taken off the shafts. The few times I’ve seen this it was on extremely high-mileage cars, and on disassembly you could clearly see where the outer cup was worn to the point that a “detent” was created that would grab and hold the tri-pot when torque was applied instead of allowing the axle to plunge with suspension movement.

Extra Thoughts Always remember to look for dust around suspect areas, which indicates fretting. Fretting occurs when two parts move or vibrate relative to each other, and that movement grinds tiny amounts of material from the

72 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

interface, which shows up as rusty dust around the parts involved. Water contaminated lubricants will dramatically shorten the life of any bearing. If you live where periodic flooding occurs, expect your bearing and CV business to thrive.

There is a proper procedure for checking unitized bearing end play. I’ve seen lots of techs condemn bearings for any detectable end play, but this is not correct. Most bearings list end play specifications in the .001 in. to .005 in. range. Look it up. To check the bearing, grab the wheel at the six and 12 o’clock positions, and while pushing hard rotate the assembly 90 degrees and release. Then once again grab the tire at the six and twelve o’clock position and while pulling rotate the assembly another 90 degrees. Now remove the tire, install your dial indicator and measure the end play at or near the hub center and compare your readings to the specifications. DON’T just condemn the bearing because you feel movement! A tiny bit of movement near the hub center translates into considerable movement 10-18 inches away from the center (the distance from hub center to the tire tread.)

Yes, cars are definitely built better, but there are far too many front wheel drive and all wheel drive systems out there to believe that there are not great opportunities for those who look for them. Overlooking potential bearing and CV work is just one more argument for a policy of “100% test drives for every car that comes in.” This is the kind of work that’s fast and profitable, and finding these kinds of problems early will make the once-in-a-while customer into a patron for life. That’s what we all need, right? n

News:

Y

Professional Credentials for Tough Times

ou got into this business because you’re the type of individual who takes a great deal of pride in your personal skills. You also get a lot of satisfaction out of a job well done. To reach the top in your profession, you’re always learning, going to training to keep up with the changes in automotive technology. You’re a professional, and you take every job very seriously. ASE certification was created for you.

ASE-certified automotive professionals are widely regarded as the best in the business. In fact, studies have shown that individuals with ASE certification perform better than their non-certified counterparts in just about every area you care to measure. Motorists recognize the Blue Seal as a symbol of quality and competence, and the best business managers make sure their customers know they employ ASE-certified staff. But what about you? What does ASE certification deliver in terms of value for the professionals who hold the credential?

Achieving ASE certification is an accomplishment shared by approximately 400,000 individuals in the U.S. and Canada. That’s the largest professional fraternity on the planet. According to data gathered from the industry, ASE-certified professionals earn more, are more accurate, have greater job satisfaction and tend to stay with an employer longer. They also command more respect, tend to get promoted more quickly and get better performance reviews on the job.

ASE certification is

by Tony Molla

a plus when job hunting and often a requirement in many shops who pride themselves on having a highly skilled and certified workforce.

Holding ASE certification also says a lot about you.

First and foremost, it says you know what you know and are willing to prove it. Since it’s a voluntary program, it also says you care enough about your profession to take the next step and get the credentials that set you apart from the crowd—not because you have to, but because you want to! In short, getting certified shows that you care enough to be the very best craftsman you can be.

And there’s more.

When you’re part of the ASE family, you’re associated with some of the best technicians in the industry. This fact is often recognized in things like state inspection and emission programs, where holding ASE certification in certain categories is a qualifier. You’ll also be able to take advantage of such benefits as receiving college credit for your ASE certifications if you decide to pursue a degree in your career. ASE certification is used as the basis for many recognition programs around the country. In fact, ASE honors more than 30 top-scoring technicians and parts professionals every year at the annual meeting.

You know you’re good. Why not get the credentials to show it? With over 750 test centers around the country, finding one near you is easy. The only thing easier is registering to take your ASE certification tests. Just go to www.ase.com and click on the registration link to get started. It’s your next step in a successful career! n

Another Mystery Solved:

ry nello i a F Tooth by John A What’s Wrong with this Picture?

A 3.4L with a dental deficiency after major surgery.

74 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

I

got a distress call from a shop on a 1998 Chevy Venture with a 3.4L that would not start (Figure1). The problem seemed so simple — no spark — yet there’d been no luck in finding the cause. This shop had already tried a crank sensor, an ignition module and a PCM, and checked the wiring to the ignition module. The tech working on the vehicle scanned the PCM data for anything unusual, but found nothing to point him in any particular direction. This was not your normal vehicle that just died on the road, but one that holds claim to rebadging this vehicle as an “Adventure” as it made its journey from one shop to another. The prior shop had performed an engine rebuild due to a broken camshaft (Figure 2). The engine had close to 87,000 miles on it, so the shop talked the customer into a lower engine rebuild, replacing the crankshaft, bearings, piston rings, oil pump, timing chain and gears. After the engine was assembled, it never started again.

Drive ‘Em In, Push ‘Em Out This is a bad situation for a shop to get into and happens often. The vehicle drove into the shop running on only three cylinders — but at least it ran.

Now the vehicle can’t even drive out of the shop after the repairs were done. There are many variables in this type of situation. You need to make sure that the replacement parts are compatible with the original

John Anello is a mobile automotive diagnostician who’s probably done more high-tech troubleshooting than anybody else in the world — 40,000 cars since ‘91! He also offers a “boot camp” program where you get to ride with him as he fixes shops’ hopeless cases. Take a look at www.autotechonwheels.com.

Figure 1 (Left) Figure 2 (Below)

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Another Mystery Solved: Tooth Fairy

Figure 3

Figure 4 76 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

Figure 5 design, that the orientation of components and wiring connectors are kept in order, and that nothing is damaged along the way. There is usually a time frame for repairs, and if it isn’t met a customer has the right to serve you with divorce papers so that the vehicle can be shipped to another garage where the dilemma might be resolved.

The unfortunate thing about this is that the next shop has to prove it’s better than the last by pinpointing the problem without any guesswork in order to become a superhero in the customer’s eye. And let’s not forget about those “are you done yet?” calls that may come in on a daily basis.

I started my diagnostic process by validating the complaint of no spark. The ignition coils each had secondary towers that were side by side, so it was easy enough to unplug all the coil secondary wires to watch the coils fire across the towers sequentially. This is a good check that loads each coil to test its ability to put out sufficient KVs, and at the same time allows you to actually see the ignition module trigger each coil to determine if there is erratic firing. There was no spark at any of the coil towers, so my next step was to plug in a generic scan tool just to retrieve some vital signs from the PCM. I checked for codes (Figure 3), but the only ones stored seemed to be created by technician error from disconnecting components with the key on. This is common in the field, so don’t go off on a wild goose chase.

Rather, validate the codes present to decide whether or not they have any value for your diagnostic strategy. I next cranked the engine, saw 167 rpm on the scan tool (Figure 4) and was confused as to how that was possible if we had no spark. At this point I had to go to my information system to plan my attack. You can’t fight a war by just running out into an open battlefield firing a pistol. You need to lay out a plan and see where you need to go and what type of arsenal you need to get the job done.

Who’s in Charge?

I pulled a diagram and saw that on this system the PCM was not in control of spark, and that’s very important to know. You don’t want to waste valuable time sifting through PCM pins to check for a no-spark condition, or, worse, replace a PCM when it has nothing to do with initial spark control during engine cranking. Some GM computers do not control spark below 400 rpm, but once the engine starts the PCM takes care of spark advance

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

77

Another Mystery Solved: Tooth Fairy

Figure 6

Figure 7 78 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

79

Another Mystery Solved: Tooth Fairy

Figure 8 though an EST circuit to the ignition module. There are also newer systems that take full control of spark by constantly commanding the coil drivers within the ignition module. This vehicle, however, used a separate 24X signal off the front crank pulley for OBD II misfire detection, and also to help in fine tuning ignition timing during cranking. There was also a cam sensor on this engine, but the main input for spark control was from a crank sensor on the side of the engine block facing the firewall. It provided the ignition module with the 7X signal it needed to start coil primary activation.

I placed my scope on the 7X rpm ref line to the PCM, the cam sensor and the 24X signals at the ignition module, and cranked the engine (Figure 5). You can see from the patterns that the 24X signal was working properly and this resolved how the PCM was seeing rpm as viewed on the scan tool. The 7X crank sensor and cam sensor were also working and producing signals, but there was no rpm output from the ignition module to the PCM. The ignition module was already replaced with a used one, but that did not hold much water because I have seen many used parts that were no good and only created a diversion, causing a tech to travel down a false diagnostic road and waste time.

80 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

I took it a step further and proved out proper powers and grounds to the module by doing a voltage drop test while cranking the engine with the module connector in place. This is very important to do because it helps to load the circuit you are testing. There have been many weak powers and grounds in my travels that would check okay using a test light with the key on without a load. Remember that a test light may only be able to load a circuit to 300 mA, while an ignition coil will load it close to six amps. The last thing I checked was the rpm ref line for a short to ground. When that proved to be okay, I had to go back to the signals and take a second look.

Count Carefully I was looking at the 7X signal again by overlapping it with the cam signal (Figure 6), paying close attention to amplitude, frequency and noise problems. Then I was a little disappointed in myself because I overlooked the signal pattern.

This was not a 7X signal, but rather a 6X signal. I pulled up a database crank/cam signal correlation file (Figure 7) from my A.C.E. library purchased from

Figure 9 www.acemisfire.com to validate my findings. You can see the difference in the waveforms and determine that the wrong crankshaft was installed in this engine. The crankshaft was not providing the 7X signal the ignition module needed to initiate spark. Zooming into the signal pattern a little closer (Figure 8), you can see that as the cam signal started to rise there should have been a prior double synch pulse, but it was missing. At this point I instructed the shop technician to pull the oil pan so we could get a look at what type of crankshaft was installed.

Within the next couple of days, the shop had called to tell me there were only six notches in the crankshaft.

I said I would be over at the end of my day to see for myself. When I arrived, I grabbed my camera to take pictures and I was disturbed at what I saw. This was the right crankshaft, but somehow a tooth that separated two of the notches was missing in action (Figure 9).

How could this ever have happened? If the crankshaft was dropped, this tooth would probably not have broken off because it was recessed below the surface level. This crankshaft might have been damaged at the factory where it was machined, or, worse, the first shop working on the engine might have had a mechanic who

decided to use a pry bar to turn the engine by wedging it into the synch spot, thus breaking the tooth off.

Flight of Fantasy I am sure that nobody wanted to take the blame, so I will present my theory of events. After the first shop had completed the crankshaft installation and left the vehicle overnight to be completed in the morning, a tooth fairy came and removed the tooth from the crankshaft when nobody was around. The good news was that when I came back to the second shop to see this missing tooth, I found a big fat check waiting for me under the driver seat cushion to pay for my diagnostics. Yes! There is such a thing as a tooth fairy.

I hope this story sheds some light on how careful you must be when installing a part and taking every precaution not to damage it. Sometimes we may be in such a rush to get a job out the door that we overlook a problem that may manifest itself into a nightmare.

That might lead to losing a valuable customer who will also bad-mouth you in the end. We are all humans and make mistakes, but experience is always the best teacher. This is why I like to present these stories hoping you don’t fall into the same trap. n

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Ever since we went from mineral oil to synthetics, this has been a controversial subject. After you read this, however, you’ll know exactly what you need to do to give that pump its best chance at survival

Choosing and Using A/C Compressor Oil

by Bob Freudenberger

(Above) Asking a complex mechanism to go from zero to thousands of rpm instantly without the best possible lubrication isn’t a recipe for long life.

T

hink about this for a minute: People are starting to get used to the fact that engines can go hundreds of thousands of miles today without major repairs -- we’ve been seeing used cars with 100K+ miles on them selling for over $10,000 -- yet they’re shocked at the estimate when you give them the bad news that their A/C compressors are worn out or broken. There really should be no surprise. That refrigerant pump goes from zero to thousands of rpm instantly when you switch on the air conditioning at cruising speeds. How long do you think rod bearings, pistons and pins would last if you held the

(Left) A bad consequence of a blown compressor is shrapnel throughout the system. If you’re not going to replace all the components, we suggest you add a screen. The big in-line type is hard to install, so we use those clever little compressor inlet screens.

82 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

pedal to the metal every time you started a car cold? And compressors haven’t had the benefit of a true sump full of oil for decades. On top of all that, when a compressor fails it’s apt to release lots of swarf and shrapnel into the rest of the system, which is practically impossible to get rid of.

So, compressor survival should be a major concern for anybody who does A/C work, and the type and quantity of the liquid that lubricates it are the biggest factors involved.

If this is so important, how come you never read about this issue in your professional journals? Maybe because it’s such a difficult subject to tackle, and it’s rife with controversy. We’re going to bite the bullet here, as is our modis operandi at Master Technician. Nobody ever said trying to put out the best automotive service professional journal in the world was going to be easy.

Manmade From 1939 when the first automotive A/C system appeared on the Packard (talk about manual controlsm -- you had to open the hood and remove the belt to shut it off) until the mid-1990s, the combination of R-12 Freon and mineral oil worked just fine together, with the result that compressors typically lasted a long, long time. All bets were off, though, with the transition to R-134a. It seems that this “new” refrigerant simply can’t transport droplets of mineral oil, so a synthetic lubricant

is an absolute must for keeping the pump alive. While POE (polyol ester, commonly called “ester”) has been the most popular lube in the aftermarket, the carmakers and compressor manufacturers/remanufacturers are adamant and unanimous in demanding that you use only PAG (polyalkyline glycol). For some reason that escapes us, this topic is loaded with conflicts, politics, and emotional personal opinions. But, being the truthful journalists we are, we’re going to try to make this decision easy for you anyway even though it’s sort of like tiptoeing through a mine field.

We remember attending a MACS (the best association we’ve ever dealt with ---www.macsw.org) convention some years ago where a panel of OEM A/C engineers did an excellent job of informing the audience about various service situations and subtleties. Things were going pleasantly enough until the topic of R-134acompatible lubricants came up and you could sense hackles rising up and down the long table. The heated comments boiled down to, “We’ve done the testing, and we’re recommending PAG, and that’s that. If you use something else don’t come complaining to us.”

At another MACS convention, we encountered the same opinion from the OEM authorities, but an even stronger endorsement of PAG came through loud and clear from the manufacturer/remanufacturer representatives on the compressor failure panel. A few sample comments:

Whether the old piston/ crank/sump, swash plate, scroll, or rotary vane type, such as this Subaru specimen, the right oil in the proper quantity is crucial.

(1) Front head (2) Side block (3) Rear head (4) Check valve (5) Rear bearing (6) Vane (7) Rotor

(8) Roll valve (9) Cylinder (10) Front bearing (11) Shaft seal (12) Magnet clutch (13) Trigger valve

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

83

Choosing and Using A/C Compressor Oil

-”Originally, we were looking for a cure-all. We believed in ester and used it for a few years in our remanufactured units. But we’ve had to change our minds after seeing results from the field.”

-”POE oil has been proven to be the most compatible with both residual A/C system oils (mineral and PAG) and the new refrigerant being added to the retrofitted system.”

-”I buy ester by the 55-gallon drum.”

-”PAG oils should be your choice. They provide superior lubrication properties. With 134a and PAG, we have fewer compressor returns than with R-12 and mineral oil.”

-”Ester doesn’t contain moisture, so it gets out to cause corrosion. Then there are boundary lubrication problems -- that means the final film that keeps metal parts separated. PAG has been shown to be superior here.”

-The Delphi rep said there are three compressor lubrication priorities:: (1) Have oil in there, (2) Have PAG oil in there, and (3) Have the recommended viscosity PAG oil in there.

But only a small percentage of retrofits included replacement compressors. Now that retrofitting is becoming a non-issue, you’re dealing with this liquid lube mostly when you replace components, especially pumps. So, you’ve got to be more concerned with warranty coverage. The first time you have a return rejected by the manufacturer/remanufacturer because you used the “wrong” oil, you’re going to regret it. One compressor company engineer puts it succinctly: “We don’t warrant compressors not using the approved lubricant or refrigerant.”

Pronouncement

Our opinion? Well, both are great lubricants, but given the research we’ve seen and the warranty situation, we Die-hards now use nothing but PAG, and we suggest that you do the Okay already, we get it. Regardless, we’ll bet a lot of same. And don’t just stock one mid-range weight. It’s not you out there are shouting at this magazine right now. a big deal to keep a few bottles of the popular viscosities As Mark Boege, N.J. shop owner and A/C expert, once around -- 46, 100 and 150. As MT contributor Greg told us, “I’ve been using ester ever since R-134a’s been McConiga puts it, “We used to have a large margin for around, and I’ve never had a problem.” He likes his error with compressors. Now, with speeds up to 14,000 brand because it comes in a “one size fits all” viscosity, rpm and terrifically tight internal tolerances, much more it comes with UV leak-detection dye already in it, precision is needed in service.”

It appears that we’re not alone in embracing PAG. and it smells so bad he can sometimes tell there’s an Paul DeGuiseppi, who does training in the field for evaporator leak as soon as he gets in the car.

MACS, tells MT, “At this point in time, I’m finally seeing If the truth be told, for years we hardly ever saw any a shift toward PAG in shops.” We’ve been noticing that, PAG actually out there in shops. Most of the retrofits too, so maybe the word is getting out and techs are that were done early on got POE, and there just weren’t heeding it even though that many problems. To quote some ester advocates: they may have had -”In all the retrofits I’ve done and in HVAC systems good success over the where temperatures are even worse than in mobile A/C years with ester. systems, I’ve never seen a lubricant failure with POE.” -”Ester has worked for me in hundreds of retrofits.

Those who are against it are politically motivated.”

84 MasterTechnician Online | www.mastertechmag.com

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Choosing and Using A/C Compressor Oil

The tests we’ve seen for PAO oil are very impressive.

Meanwhile, you’ll only get satisfaction on a compressor warranty claim with PAG.

This kind of damage wasn’t caused by the wrong type of oil, but by a lack thereof. The system was dry as a bone.

There is an exception: Japanese hybrids with electrically-powered compressors. These require specific ester oils, so sometime in the future you may need to use POE again, but don’t hold your breath.

contrast to many other oils, there is no danger here of oil accumulation in the evaporator, and the related reduction in cooling performance.” Another claim is superior lubrication, which is supposed to reduce compressor drag by up to 20%.

Now for something completely different

Although this new lubricant sounds very interesting, and there are thousands of cars in Australia and New Zealand running around with it in their A/C systems, we don’t know when (or if) the automakers and compressor companies will ever give it engineering approval. Meanwhile, stick with PAG.

There is a third possibility that you may not have heard about: PAO, which was formerly marketed in the U.S. as ROC Oil. An Australian import, it was introduced in 1997 after 15 years of research and development by a mechanical engineer specializing in refrigeration.

PAO (polyalphaolefin) contains special additives, and it’s non-hygroscopic, presents no compatibility problems with seals or residual lubricants, and works at up to 600 deg. F. After reading independent test reports, we were impressed. Particularly interesting is that its molecules attach themselves to metal surfaces, displacing dirt, carbon, and other oils. This results in improved heat transfer through the condenser and evaporator, hence faster pull-down and better system efficiency (6% to 8% is claimed). As Friedrich Danke, a thermal management expert at Behr Hella Service, the German company that distributes PAO, puts it. “In

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Lockup You’ve probably seen the accessory belt burned off an older engine from a seized compressor. Not a pretty picture. Of course, that’s why we’ve got complex rpmsensing clutch energization circuits today, but they’re fodder for a future MT article.

Typically, compressors lock up because they’re dry as a bone. This is usually the result of a refrigerant leak, which takes the oil with it and causes the car’s owner to top up the system over and over (people seem blind to that ugly accumulation of gunk and dust that will be found at the site of the seepage).

Don’t go crazy injecting oil.

Calculate, then measure carefully.

(Below) The amount on that label refers to the whole system, not just the compressor. By the way, 180cc is about six ounces.

(Below) No matter how deep a vacuum you draw, you’re never going to get the residual oil out of a system. So, the amount present is often a mystery.

Choosing and Using A/C Compressor Oil Too much Some years ago, we visited a tech who wanted to prove to us that the ester he liked to use was great. We were driving our personal Dodge van, and the compressor was indeed noisy (what else is new?), so he grabbed his injector and gave it a dose. Yeah, it quieted down, but within a week it had stopped pumping. Upon disassembly, we found that one of the reed plates had broken, slugged by too much liquid lube.

Which brings up the delicate subject of how much oil to add to the system during service. We’d love to be able to give you a little chart that states unequivocally that when you replace a condenser, add two ounces, a compressor, four ounces, etc. Unfortunately, it’s not nearly that simple.

Sure, a label on the back of the compressor shows the type, viscosity and capacity of oil for that particular system. If you were to start with a new, empty system, you could just divide that up among the major components and distribute it as common sense dictates -- most of it in the compressor, a smaller amount in the condenser and evaporator, etc. But how often are you going to replace everything so that you’re starting from scratch?

On the flip side, if there’s been a leak, how much has escaped?

The answer is twofold.

First, look up the carmaker’s recommended procedure for replacing that part, and note the amount of oil specified. Then, drain as much as you can from the old part into a measuring cup.

In the case of a compressor, keep turning the shaft. Between these two references, you should be able to make a pretty good guess.

Seven ounces is a whole lot of oil for a compressor.

You might need to drain some out, and, if other parts are being replaced also, distribute it throughout the system.

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There’s one saving grace here: The automakers have validated that their systems can run with a double oil charge, so you could be somewhat on the fat side without blowing things up. Remember, though, that excessive lube cuts efficiency and wastes energy.

Two related points and we’ll let you go back to work: •While proper lubrication is the most essential ingredient in long compressor life, keeping head pressures down is a close second. Never overcharge, check that the fan is working, and make sure the condenser isn’t blocked by leaves, unfortunate birds, plastic bags, etc.

•Compressor suppliers have told that in cases where they ship units dry, they often get them back as returns STILL dry. Take the time to read and follow the oiling recommendations that come with the pump. n

Introducing the

PRO-Alert 2791™

This “next generation” electronic refrigerant leak detector utilizes a state-of-the-art infrared sensor for enhanced sensitivity and long life! It features a user selectable, three-position sensitivity switch to minimize false triggering, while allowing for easy diagnosis of small, medium and large leaks. Powered by a long-life, rechargeable NiMH battery. Certified to meet new SAE J2791 standard for electronic refrigerant leak detectors.

Detects leaks down to 0.1 oz/year Works with all refrigerants 1,000 + hour sensor life High-efficiency air sampling pump provides quicker response and clearing NiMH battery provides over six hours of use between charges. Detector also works with AC and DC power adapters.

The TP-9364 PRO-Alert 2791™ comes complete with infrared sensor, replacement filters, rechargeable NiMH battery, AC power adapter, DC power adapter with cigarette lighter plug and rugged carrying case.

To learn more, call 1-800-641-1133 or visit www.tracerline.com

Current issues of Master Technician ONLINE are free of charge to qualified automotive repair shop owners, managers and technicians.

Send this website link - www.mastertechmag.com to your tech buddies so they can sign up for their free subscription too!

S o l u t i o n s f o r P r o f e s s i o n a l A u t o m o t i v e R e p a i r Te c h n i c i a n s A

M a s t e r t e c h m a g . c o m

O n l i n e

P u b l i c a t i o n

Volume 3 / Issue 1 / April 2009

Master Technician

a mastertechmag.com online publication April 2009

Inside the Insider Five Ways to Limit Liability By stepping out into the business world, every step has exposure. While you cannot stop people from suing, you can insulate your business, personal assets and wallet from most liability if you take some steps to protect yourself.

Another Mystery Solved: Tooth Fairy t Doing Domestic J2534 Reflashing t Turbochargers, Part 1: The Rise of the Machines

VOL. #15 N0.1

(Turn to page 1)

Human Potential The mind is a strange and powerful tool. Psychologists tell us some very interesting things about its function.

First, 90% of its activity is subconscious.

t

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t Hybrid Components & Hybrid Model Updates, Part One

In Times Like These Small business is the skeleton of our economy. Businesses like ours.

(Turn to page 3)

t Unitized Wheel Bearing Diagnosis

Sole Proprietorship It does not matter whether the individual is just getting started in a new business or is a twenty year business veteran this question comes up on a regular basis.

My answer to this dilemma has always been the same, it depends.

t Voltage Drop Testing t Bleeding ABS

(Turn to page 6)

MT Business Insider Pricing Matrix

t Counterfeit Parts: The Facts on Fakes t Lift Safety and Productivity

Another Mystery Solved

Needle in a Haystack

Businesses are based on percentages, but customers look at prices. How do you reconcile your business’ need to make a decent profit margin on parts with your customers’ need to pay a fair price?

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ASE Certification: The Competitive Advantage One of the most powerful influences on choosing a repair facility is word-ofmouth recommendations from family, friends, and neighbors. Existing customers usually recommend a business based on trust and positive past experience.

(Turn to page 10)

April 2009 | MasterTechnician Online

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Volume 1 | Issue 1

Five Ways to Limit Liability For Business Owners

B

By David V. Allen, Esq.

y stepping out into the business world, every step has exposure. While you cannot stop people from suing, you can insulate your business, personal assets and wallet from most liability if you take some steps to protect yourself.

First, incorporate or form a limited liability company.

This requires that you file articles of incorporation, or in the case of a limited liability company (LLC), articles of organization with the Secretary of State, or whatever governmental office handles business filings in your state. Once you incorporate or form an LLC, you must hold your business out to the public as a corporation or LLC. This means Continue p.2: Five Ways

Human Potential

Using What You’ve Got

by Greg McConiga

T

he mind is a strange and powerful tool. Psychologists tell us some very interesting things about its function. First, 90% of its activity is subconscious. Let’s define that. “Sub,” as in “below,” and conscious, as in an individual sense of recognition of things within or without oneself. 90%! Think about that. It says if -- IF -- you are 100% in control during your waking hours, the very best you are capable of achieving is still only 10%.

It’s generally agreed that a human’s learning ability is physically unlimited. Remember that a scrap of brain tissue no larger than this “o” can store more information than a computer the size of a Honda. Now, consider that an average person’s brain weighs about three pounds. How many ounces of yours do you actually use?

Continue p.5: Potential