2020 New Mexico Vacation Directory by Matt Gantner

New Mexico Restaurants Open for Business pg. 20

VACATION DIRECTORY ™ travelnewmex.com • summer/fall 2020 "Valley of Fires," Carrizozo, NM, oil on canvas, by Robert Benjamin

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BE HERE. BE INSPIRED.

EXPLORE THE BEST OF NEW MEXICO. ONLINE. ALL THE TIME. nmculture.org

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INDEX

NORTHWEST

NORTH-CENTRAL/ NORTHEAST CENTRAL

SOUTHWEST

SOUTHEAST

Map Color Indicates Region in Directory

PUBLISHERS

EDITOR

MATT GANTNER WILLIAM HALSEY

AUTUMN GRAY

9400 Holly Avenue NE Albuquerque, NM 87122

ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES SCOTT SIMMONS

GRAPHIC DESIGNERS

WRITER

AUTUMN GRAY

ASHLEY CONNER DANA BENJAMIN

The New Mexico Vacation Directory is published once a year in May by Moon Dog Publishing, Albuquerque, N.M. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information presented in this guide. The publisher does not take responsibility for the accuracy or legitimacy of the advertisers’ messages or that of the guest writers/ columnists or any aspect of the business operation or conduct of the advertisers in the magazine. For information and advertising rates, call (505) 350-8695 or (505) 259-7969.

VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.TRAVELNEWMEX.COM

6: State's Diverse Regions Offer Plenty to See, Do Safely 6: Northwestern New Mexico: Rocks, Roads and Bling 9: Northeastern New Mexico: A Raucous Past Among Varied Vistas 10: Socorro’s Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge is Calling 12: Southwestern New Mexico: Frontiers, Old and New 12: Southeastern New Mexico: Deep Caves and White Sand Dunes to Boutique Art Galleries 14: The Charm of Church Street Café 16: North-Central New Mexico: History, Art, Culture 19: Choose Your Own Adventure in New Mexico 20: New Mexico Restaurants Open for Business 21: Pop a Pistachio: New Mexico’s Other Tasty Treat 23: Discover Your Alamogordo Cover: New Mexico master landscape painter Robert Benjamin captures the sunset in Carrizozo, NM on canvas. His original painting of "Valley of Fires" was done in oil on canvas in 2008.

life is short. ride long. Let’s not mess around. Let’s get on board the longest and highest narrow gauge railroad in the nation. Let’s take America’s best scenic train ride from Antonito, Colorado or Chama, New Mexico. See the unspoiled West. Feel the rails underneath us. Listen to the steam whistle. The modern world can wait until we’re good and sooty and done.

book now at cumbrestoltec.com 1-888-286-2737

www.travelnewmex.com | SUMMERscenic • WINTER 2020 5 America’s most historic railroad

State's Diverse Regions Offer Plenty to See, Do Safely NEW MEXICO’S wide-open spaces are ready to welcome you. Whether you are merely seeking a much-needed change of scenery or are in need of a more extensive getaway with a touch of adventure, there has never been a better time to look to the stunning four regions of picturesque New Mexico. The state’s natural beauty, rich history, outdoor activities and culturallyimmersive offerings remain available for staycationers and vacationers alike – though some modifications may be in place due to coronavirus health and safety precautions in place this year. As of deadline for this publication, the State of New Mexico was requiring face masks be worn by everyone when in public, unless eating, drinking or exercising. Before visiting a park, please check the park website to determine its operating status.

Updates about the overall National Park Service response to COVID-19, including safety information, are posted on www.nps.gov/coronavirus. Finally, be aware that shops and restaurants may operate at limited capacity or have new operating hours. Please check newmexico.gov for the latest COVID-19 updates before you travel and while on the road to any of the following areas in the Land of Enchantment.

NORTHWEST

Northwestern New Mexico: Rocks, Roads and Bling WHETHER you venture to the Four Corners monument (where you can stand in four states simultaneously), are drawn to the ancient mystery of Chaco Canyon, or cruise historic Route 66, there is much in this part of New Mexico to heighten the senses and stir dormant primal connections. Amid 200 million-year-old cliffs outside Gallup is the Red Rock State Park. While its museum and campgrounds remained closed as of deadline for this publication, visitors are encouraged to walk the hiking trails. Consider as you step that you are walking on land once occupied by the ancient Anasazi Indians. Immerse yourself in antiquity at El Morro National Monument, (south of Interstate 40, west of Ramah

on NM 53) where fragments of history and ancient cultures are embedded in the great sandstone promontory. Here, over hundreds of years, Spanish and American travelers rested and carved their signatures, brief messages and the dates they passed through. Trails and campgrounds were set to open on a schedule of Wednesday through Sunday each week beginning in mid-June. The Visitors Center had a planned opening of July. Trading posts and shops throughout Northwestern New Mexico offer a variety of new and old Native American arts and crafts, including painting, pottery, jewelry and carved fetishes. Keep in mind their hours may be adjusted and capacity for visitors limited during this time. Seasonal art gallery walks are among the most popular activities in Farmington. Demand is so great that they are being offered virtually through the Farmington Convention Center at Farmingtonnm.org. Check the website for updates as to when the actual walks may resume as well. Venture along historic Route 66 where you can see the motels, diners and neon of the era as the "Mother Road" winds its way west out of Albuquerque toward Gallup. For railway buffs and

Red Rock State Park

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“Beacon” 40" x 40" Acrylic

DICK EVANS

VENTANA FINE ART 400 Canyon Road

•

Santa Fe, NM 87501

•

505-983-8815

•

800-746-8815

•

www.ventanafineart.com

Step Into New Mexico’s History

The past comes alive at El Rancho de las Golondrinas living history museum. Explore New Mexico’s traditions and cultures from the 1700s–1800s at this one-of-a-kind destination where the past comes to life and weekend programs are fun for the whole family. Open Wednesday through Sunday, July through October, with free admission for New Mexico residents on Wednesdays.

 More than 200 acres of lush La Cienega Valley to explore   Costumed interpreters teach you about New Mexico’s past   Over 34 historic buildings 

 Special weekend events—check website for dates   Experience life on El Camino Real   Fun for the whole family 

 See live churro sheep, goats and burros   Get hands-on with history 

 Amazing Southwest treasures in our museum store   The premier living history museum of the Southwest 

partially funded by the city of santa fe arts commission and the 1% lodgers’ tax, county of 2020 santa fe lodgers’ tax, new mexico arts, and new mexico bank and trust www.travelnewmex.com | SUMMER • WINTER

Northwestern New Mexico

VACATION DIRECTORY

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anyone interested in the history of the Southwest, the town’s historic railway depot is worth a photo op from the outside. The Southwest Indian Foundation operates the Gallup Cultural Center inside the depot. It contains a storyteller museum and displays about trains, mining, weaving, Native American sand paintings and silversmithing, as well as the stories of Route 66. If you have your heart set on seeing it, make sure to call 505-863-4131 in advance to check whether it’s open in light of COVID-19 safety measures. The museum remained closed when this story was published. To immerse yourself in Native American traditions, a visit to Zuni Pueblo during any number of its fairs and festivals throughout the year is a must. Visit http://www.zunitourism. com or call 505.782.7000 for current information about whether the Pueblo is open to visitors either by car or on foot, and what activities, if any, are ongoing. Guided tours at the

pueblo typically include archaeology tours, a walking tour of the historic village neighborhood and a tour of the historic 1632 Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe Mission, one of the earliest restored Spanish Colonial missions in the Southwest. To get to Zuni, take Interstate 40 for 85 miles west of Albuquerque, then exit 82 to NM-53/NM-122 W, and turn right onto Chavez Circle for 74 miles. A scenic drive off I-40 east of Grants escorts you to the otherworldly volcanic flows of El Malpais National Monument. Its trailheads are open, though the monument’s visitor center near Interstate 40 remains closed due to a construction project. However, the parking area and restrooms of the visitor center were set to open as of mid-June. Take exit 89 off I-40 onto NM Highway 117, which travels the eastern boundary of the park.

NORTHEAST

Northeastern New Mexico: A Raucous Past Among Varied Vistas NORTHEASTERN New Mexico's diverse terrain includes everything from the state’s highest mountain, to the valleys and clear water streams of the Pecos River. As a result, this quadrant of New Mexico has some of the most breathtaking scenery to be found.

Nestled among the majestic Sangre de Cristo Mountains just six miles from the Colorado border, hospitable Raton offers fresh air, expansive scenery, a variety of recreational activities, a vibrant art scene and regular downtown events.

As expansive as the mesa is the area’s history, which includes outlaws, Rough Riders, a raucous cow town and the dwellings of ancient civilizations. Experience the mystery and intrigue of the historic St. James Hotel in Cimarron, a tiny community with a storied past that includes Buffalo Soldiers and train robbers.

About 40 miles west of town, enjoy abundant wildlife, luxurious spa amenities and fine dining amid the ultimate outdoor adventure on Ted Turner’s 585,000-acre Vermejo Park Ranch. And don’t miss the National Rifle Association’s largest shooting range in the country. The NRA Whittington Center, located southwest of Raton, offers guided hunts, shooting, camping, firearms training and pistol courses. Call ahead at 800.494.4853 to create your experience.

Make a stop along the legendary Santa Fe Trail into the once-bustling cattle town in Las Vegas, where Teddy Roosevelt came to recruit the Rough Riders. The City of Las Vegas Museum and Rough Rider Memorial Collection tell the stories of Roosevelt’s charge on San Juan Hill in the Spanish-American War. Be sure to call (505) 426-3205 or visit lasvegasmuseum.org before planning a visit.

Venture to nearby Fort Union and walk through the territorial style adobe remnants of the region’s largest 19th century military fort. Recognized for its antique shopping opportunities, Las Vegas also provides a chance to learn the New Mexico Harvey House story. Entrepreneur Fred Harvey built a series of iconic hotels and restaurants along the railway routes of the Southwest, attracting tourists to the area from around the world at the turn of the 20th century.

A dozen miles northeast of Raton, you’ll find camping, fishing and hiking in Sugarite Canyon.

Pecos River

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Socorroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge is Calling The Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge offers unique bird and wildlife viewing opportunities. Peak visitation occurs in winter when bald eagles and thousands of sandhill cranes and snow geese flock to the fields and marshes. The 12-mile auto tour loop takes visitors through a full range of wildlife viewing and photographic opportunities. Visitors can also take the self-guided tour and nature trails, which range in length from one to nine miles. Please note that drinking water was not available on the refuge as of late June. You should be prepared to take drinking water, food, and hand sanitizer sufficient for your visit.

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As of June 26, the following amenities were open during daytime hours: Tour Loop, fishing/frogging & hunting, wilderness area, portable toilets at Visitor Center parking lot, Wetland Roost, Point of Lands Overlook, Picnic Pavilion, Marsh Overlook, John P. Taylor, Jr. Memorial, Rio Viejo, Observation Blind, Chupadera, Bajada Loop, canyon, Desert Arboretum, and Elmendorf. The following were closed: Visitor Center, Nature Store, restrooms, vault toilets, Boardwalk Trail & Sparrow Loop, Seasonal Tour Road, recreation fee collection, and observation decks. More information is available by calling 575-835-1828 or visiting www.fws.gov/ refuge/Bosque_del_Apache/visit/plan_ your_visit.html.

experience

SOCORRO unlike any other city!

visit us at www.SocorroNM.org www. facebook.com/SocorroNM

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Southwestern New Mexico: Frontiers, Old and New

SOUTHWEST

SMACK DAB in the middle of Southwestern New Mexico on 18,000 acres of desert is the commercially licensed Spaceport America. Built as a hub for future space travel, the facility is situated along a path followed centuries ago by other like-minded souls seeking a new frontier. Visiting and touring Spaceport America requires prior authorization. All tours require a minimum 24-hour advance reservation and are subject to change or cancellation due to COVID restrictions and/or mission control requirements. For information, visit www.spaceportamerica.com/visit/#tour. The secure, futuristic facility stands in stark contrast to the many historical landmarks dating back hundreds of years throughout this quadrant of New Mexico. Nearby, the tiny agricultural community of Hatch proudly produces New Mexico’s famous green chile. Name recognition of New Mexico’s beloved signature crop from Hatch is growing nationwide. The region is also home to many pecan orchards and vineyards.

Just outside of Las Cruces, stop in for a glass of awardwinning wine or pick up a fine vintage to take home at Rio Grande Winery. Normal hours are noon to 5:30 p.m. Friday-Sunday, but make sure to verify that by calling (575) 524-3985 or checking the website, www.riograndewinery.com/. Owned and operated by Gordon Steel, the winery is a sweet oasis in the desert, with a panoramic vista of the Mesilla Valley included. Some say the grapes at Rio Grande Winery are blessed since they are harvested by cloistered monks in a deal Steel worked out with a New Mexico monastery. Once a railroad hub, Las Cruces is home to New Mexico State University and serves as a center for agriculture,

science and technology research. A short jaunt to the southwest part of Las Cruces and you’ll find yourself in the quaint village of Old Mesilla with its distinctive central plaza and shopping venues. Head west toward New Mexico’s bootheel and enjoy the rustic ambiance of Deming, Lordsburg and bordertown Columbus. Check local listings in these areas for reenactments of life on the frontier. Civil war history, mining, prospectors and the Wild West are all part of the texture of Silver City, located just three miles east of the Continental Divide. No trip to this area is complete without a visit to Catwalk National Recreation Area, five miles off the highway from the village of Glenwood. In the Mimbres Valley, volcanic ash shaped by wind 35 million years ago created the geologic formations that comprise City of Rocks State Park, halfway between Silver City and Deming. Fort Bayard offers a glimpse at Civil War life. The spectacular Gila Cliff Dwellings, Gila National Monument and Gila Wilderness are an indescribable must-see. Travelers will enhance their experience by making time to drive the Trail of Mountain Spirits, a 93-mile National Scenic Byway that winds around the southwest corner of New Mexico and past ancient cliff dwellings.

Pecan Trees of Las Cruces

Southeastern New Mexico: Deep Caves and White Sand Dunes to Boutique Art Galleries THE WILD WEST, world war history, recreational activities and weird phenomenon are all part of a sojourn to Southeastern New Mexico, historically a farming and oil region.

military conducted research during World War II. At the White Sands Missile Range Museum, you can learn more about the history of the region and the Trinity Site, where scientists tested the first atomic bomb in 1945. Call to verify whether it is open at (575) 678-2250.

In the other-worldly desolation of the mountain-ringed Tularosa Basin at the northern end of the Chihuahuan Desert, walk through dunes of glistening gypsum sand and experience the unforgettable beauty of White Sands National Monument. This is where the first settlers came more than 10,000 years ago and the U.S.

A short jaunt away is Artesia, where downtown you can experience art and culture on the street. A series of bronze statues are positioned within the downtown district on Artesia’s History in Bronze and Downtown Walking Tour. It begins at the Artesia Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center in the

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VACATION DIRECTORY

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The Charm of Church Street Café Dining at Church Street Café in Albuquerque’s historic Old Town has been described by some as almost a religious experience. Entering the dark coziness of the building with the two-foot thick adobe walls can feel like a welcoming hug to some. The house dates to the 1700s and was originally built as a residence for one of the city’s founding families. It remained a private residence until the last member of the Ruiz family died in 1991. Today the Casa de Ruiz Church Street Café offers an impressive selection of standard fare and traditional New Mexican cuisine. Whether red, green, ‘Christmas’ or ‘on the side’ is your chile preference, the chile at Church Street Café never disappoints. New Mexico’s signature crop is prepared fresh daily here, and is always flavorful and moderate in heat. Steak Hot and spicy: Church Street Café’s Chicken Enchiladas with red chile. and eggs, omelets, delicious papitas (potatoes), carne adovada (red chile marinated pork), huevos rancheros, breakfast burritos, assorted breakfast meats, tortillas, sopapillas, pancakes or granola and yogurt, are just a few of the breakfast options to appeal to even the most discriminating palate. The coffee is bold, the lattes satisfying, and the cappuccinos are a subtle frothy treat. Lunch and dinner options feature a vast selection of appetizers, sandwiches, hamburgers, salads, and traditional New Mexican dishes such as enchiladas, tacos, tamales, chile rellenos, carne adovada and more. All dinners are served with sopapillas and honey, frijoles (beans), and a choice of calabacitas (squash), arroz (rice), or quelites (spinach). The food is served hot, the portions are plentiful, the selection is impressive, prices are reasonable, and inside or out, the ambiance is charming. Church Street Café offers imported and domestic beers, New Mexico wines and flavored margarita options that pair perfectly with the cuisine. Make sure to save enough room for dessert (postres), including fried ice cream and traditional Mexican desserts such as natillas (pudding), flan (custard) and bunuelo (cinnamon-sugared fry bread). Casa de Ruiz Church Street Café, open daily Monday-Friday 11am-9pm, Saturday and Sunday 8am-9pm, 2111 Church Street NW, Old Town Albuquerque, 87104, (505) 247-8522.

4 Decades In Old Town! The Candy Lady has delicious sweets, great service and continues to be among Albuquerque’s most popular sweet shops. BREAKING BAD BLUE ICE CANDY ADULT CHOCOLATES

Don’t be fooled by imitators, there is only one Candy Lady! Over 50 Kinds of Black Licorice 21 Flavors of Homemade Fudge Chocolate Covered Strawberries, Cherries and Raspberries Customized Cakes And Much More! Monday - Saturday 10 - 6 & Sunday 10 - 5 -WE SHIP424 San Felipe St NW, Old Town Albuquerque, NM 87104

505-243-6239 • www.CandyLady.com www.travelnewmex.com | SUMMER • WINTER 2020

Southeastern New Mexico (continued from Page 12)

SOUTHEAST

historic train depot and stops at the impressive Artesia Public Library, home to a 46-foot Peter Hurd mural. The artwork was rescued from a downtown Houston building slated for demolition. The diverse and dramatic geology in this region features flat expanses of seemingly endless prairie connecting to the foothills of the Sacramento mountains, in which the villages of Cloudcroft and Ruidoso nestle. To the south is Carlsbad, where Carlsbad Caverns National Park invites visitors beneath the earth’s surface to see dozens of limestone caves. Bats that sleep in them by day fill the evening sky as they head out in a cloud of black to hunt insects.

Confederate forces occupied the outpost in the beginning of the American Civil War, and later it served as America's first federal tuberculosis sanatorium. If possible, be sure to visit the UFO Museum in Roswell. Check its website, www.roswellufomuseum.com, for the latest information about operations and hours. Nearby, take a spin to Bottomless Lakes State Park, which was open as of publication. It lies 14 miles southeast of Roswell, where sinkholes range to 90 feet deep.

In Lincoln County, see the courthouse where notorious outlaw Billy the Kid shot his way out of jail. New Mexico’s most visited historic site, Lincoln offers an immersive experience hearkening back to a violent period in the state’s history - the Lincoln County Wars. A short drive away from Lincoln is Fort Stanton, established to protect settlements along the Rio Bonito in the Apache Wars. Built in 1855 as a U.S. military fort, this is the largest of New Mexico’s state historic sites. Kit Carson, Billy the Kid and Buffalo Soldiers of the 9th Cavalry all lived at Fort Stanton.

White Sands National Monument

North- Central New Mexico: History, Art, Culture THE LARGEST city in the state, the oldest state capital in the country, world-class art communities, an authentic railroad town, and excellent accommodations can all be found in New Mexico’s North-Central quadrant cities of Albuquerque, Santa Fe and Taos, and in the towns around them. Majestic mountains rise abruptly from great expanses of plains, falling off to wooded river valleys. This diverse terrain provides a wealth of outdoor activities, including hiking, skiing, cycling and mountain biking. Just as varied are the communities, which comprise a mix of small-town charm, bucolic serenity, bustling metropolitan life and a sleepy mountain-ringed village. Make some time to experience the rich history and culture of Belen, founded in 1740 and interwoven with Spanish, German and other cultures. The community boasts an original Harvey House and offers a glimpse at what this historic railroad town looked like in the early 1900s. There are also plenty of shopping opportunities. 16

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Birders, golfers, art-lovers, historians and campers will find plenty of entertainment in Socorro. Check out the City’s website for a full list of activities available in the area, including walking tours, dirt biking and ATVs, and downtown shopping and dining. The rich history of Los Lunas can be discovered with a visit to its Visitors Center, your source for information about the array of local events held year-round. While you’re there, look at the rich history of Los Lunas through a photo display inside the building. Do not miss Albuquerque’s Historic Old Town Plaza, the humble roots from which Albuquerque grew. Old Town offers an impressive selection of New Mexico cuisine and the work of local artisans in an area that surrounds historic San Felipe de Neri Church. There are three nearby museums and the City’s BioPark. Check websites for current information about whether they are open and restrictions on visiting. The plaza offers a therapeutic ambiance if you just want to sit and watch the world go by. (continued on Page 27)

CLIMB THROUGH HISTORY.

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by popular demand, we are extending Santa Fe Summer through October! Visit Our Website For Participating Businesses:

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Bandelier National Monument

Choose Your Own Adventure in New Mexico

VACATION DIRECTORY

Range of travel modes offer unique, low-risk experiences

BY NOW, everyone just wants to get out of the house. Where we go and what we do for fun has hit a pretty low bar. But families that want something resembling a normal vacation can still have it in New Mexico. While COVID-19 may have eliminated some traditional options, it also opens up opportunities to travel differently, creating unique experiences you might not have otherwise had. Whether exploring on foot, seeing mountains from a steam train or viewing the state from a bird’s eye view, how you travel New Mexico can be just as rewarding as what you see and do.

The following is a sampling of excursions and venues that promise fun for the whole family. Keep in mind that special precautions may be in place, and operations could change depending on state health orders. All information contained in this article was correct as of mid-June. Hoofing it In a remote southwest corner of New Mexico, just south of Interstate 10 near Deming, you’ll discover a true gem of a site. Aptly named Rockhound State Park, your child – and your inner child - will think he or she has found heaven on

Rockhound Stata Park

earth if they a) love digging in the dirt, b) always want to take natural souvenirs from national or state parks but are never allowed, c) have an affinity for collecting rocks and/or d) display signs of becoming a blossoming geologist. Contrary to most state and national parks, where removal of any natural objects is illegal, visitors here are encouraged to excavate semi-precious mineral specimens such as quartz crystals, geodes, jasper and perlite. The only limitation is how much you can take – a maximum of 15 pounds. It’s unlikely you’ll find that much, however. Quartz crystals are fairly easy to locate, but geodes will require luck and excessive digging for several feet. Jasper, which occurs in red, white and pink, is mostly found in small outcroppings and also requires an investment of time to find and extract. Locating perlite is your best bet. The shiny black glassy rock is exposed at

Ranked No. 1

ruc C s a L

on the list of Best Things to do in Las Cruces.

discover O Keeffe

l Livestock tours l Demonstrations l Special Events l Play areas for

children

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Open 9-5 Monday - Saturday 12-5 on Sunday.

l Barns, corrals

and Greenhouse

575.522.4100 l 4100 Dripping Springs Rd. Las Cruces, NM 88011 www.nmfarmandranchmuseum.org

GALLERIES

HOME AND STUDIO GOKM.ORG

MARIA CHABOT. GEORGIA O’KEEFFE HITCHING A RIDE TO ABIQUIU, 1944. PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINT. GIFT OF THE MARIA CHABOT LITERARY TRUST.

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STORE

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New Mexico Restaurants Open for Business Chilé faithfully unites state’s culinary quirks

Editor’s note: All restaurants mentioned below were open as of early June. However, the extent of operations varied, with some offering limited seating capacity, limited hours, or takeout/curbside pickup only. Check websites or call ahead for the current status. CHILÉ is as much a part of the New Mexico culture as turquoise skies, artistic tradition and outdoor recreation. When a New Mexico resident talks about chilé, it’s the kind spelled with an ‘e’, and it is vastly different from Texas’ chili con carne. To confuse the two would be blasphemy. To appreciate New Mexico chile and all its uses is near spiritual.

Chiles, red and green, are the state’s signature commodity. New Mexico’s green chilé pods are picked, roasted and peeled before they can be eaten. Red chilé is cleaned, soaked, pureed, strained and blended into a smooth consistency. Restaurant diners are typically asked to make a decision with each meal: “Red or green?” This is New Mexico’s official state question. (We are the only state to have one.) When ordering both red and green chilé on an entrée, the locals call that ‘Christmas.’ During the holidays, whole red chile pods are made into decorative chile ristras, hung outside of homes and hotels, leading the red pod to be considered the state’s unofficial symbol. The fruit is so prevalent that even wineries, chocolatiers and pizza chains buy it in various forms to add to their products. New Mexico’s chilé season typically runs mid-July through the end of September, its peak determined by spring weather. Locals know its time has come by the smell in the air. Annually, chile roasters begin appearing in store parking lots and roadside stands, their scent and smoke beckoning for blocks. Consumers wait in long lines outdoors to take the roasted chile home for immediate use or to freeze for later in the year. If you are sensitive to heat, it always pays to ask an establishment which of their chilé is hotter, the red or green. A lot depends on the chilé crop that year or how the restaurant prepares it. The general belief is that the chilé gets hotter the closer you get to Hatch, nicknamed the Chilé Capital of the World. Best to start slow no matter where you are until you can assess the heat level suited to your taste. In northern New Mexico, like Rio Arriba County or in the town of Las Vegas, you tend to get more red chilé dishes, and in the central and southern areas, green chile dominates. Portions also skew larger in the southern part of the state. A true chilé connoisseur may be able to tell if the chilé was sun-dried, which produces more of a smoky flavor. 20

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Huevos rancheros with red chilé from Duran's Central Pharmacy

Complimentary chips and salsa are often served immediately when you are seated at restaurants in the north. In the middle of the state and further south, it is typical to order them off the menu at a charge. But this can vary from restaurant to restaurant, as can the flavor, consistency and heat of the salsa. If you love sopapillas, the hollow fluffy pastry pillows often come complimentary with a meal, either as a starter or delivered with the entrees in north and central New Mexico. In the south, tortillas are served for free at the outset, and sopapillas are offered at a price as a dessert or a side dish. Sopapillas can be the sweetest of desserts when spread with a little honey, but also are great for mopping up the extra chilé or stuffing with beans as you savor your entrée. You can always count on pinto beans, too, in some variation. Whole pinto beans are prepared with spices and little else. Refried beans are smashed pintos, usually cut with lard. In some restaurants, like Cervantes in Albuquerque, the refried beans are just boiled to a pulp and no lard or oil is added - a distinctly healthier choice that does not compromise the flavor. Many restaurants offer beans and rice or papas as a staple with an entrée, while others offer beans only. Spanish rice preparation, too, varies - from tomato-ey, to spiced with taco seasoning, to cooked with bacon grease and scallions. (continued on Page 26)

Pop a Pistachio: New Mexico’s Other Tasty Treat GEORGE AND MARIANNE Schweers wanted to return to their agriculture roots after a career in the Air Force that culminated at Holloman Air Force Base near Alamogordo. When 400 seedling pistachio trees, the first planted in New Mexico, came up for sale, the couple thought a perfect opportunity had presented itself. Neighbors thought the Schweers were, well, nuts.

Pistachios are fun to pop open and a heart-healthy snack. But in New Mexico? Pistachios are from Iran, or Turkey, or maybe California? The Schweers were just ahead of the trend in the desert Southwest. They had done their homework and knew that Pistachia Vera is a desert plant, a member of the cashew family and highly tolerant of saline soil. It thrives when irrigated with water having 3,000 to 4,000 ppm of soluble salts. Otero County was the place for soluble salts. Eagle Ranch was born. Now, 43 years later, Eagle Ranch is New Mexico’s oldest and largest-producing pistachio grove with more than 13,000 trees. It’s also the only farm in the state that processes its

own pistachios completely. The farm is a fully integrated agri-business: growing, processing, packaging and selling its products on the premises. All pistachio products from Eagle Ranch are sold under its familiar Heart of the Desert trade name. The Schweers’ son, Gordon, developed the original chile-flavored pistachios. The farm now boasts nine flavors of pistachios, all packaged with the Heart of the Desert logo adorning the bags. The family added Heart of the Desert wine to the product line in 2002. The vineyard has more than 24,000 grapevines with seven varieties of grapes harvested each year. Chardonnay, Cabernet, Zinfandel, Shiraz, Riesling, Malvasia Bianca and Gewurztraminer make the production of a wide range of wines possible. Heart of the Desert Pistachios and Wines ships its farm-fresh products worldwide, selling them by mail order and online. There also are four store locations: the primary store on the farm beside Hwy 54/70, north of Alamogordo; “Heart of the Desert” on the plaza in Old Mesilla; “Eagle Ranch Mercantile” in the lobby of the Farm & Ranch Heritage Museum in Las Cruces; and “The Cork & Kettle” in Ruidoso. Tours of the farm are fun and free, and wine tasting is delightful at all four locations. *Story courtesy of Heart of the Desert.

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Three Rivers Petroglyph Site

Stories told in stone.

AlamogordoNMTrue.com

WELCOME TO ALAMOGORDO Come for the incredible outdoor spaces including the nation’s newest national park. Stay in Alamogordo to discover world-class museums and attractions, a thriving performing arts center, local wineries, a new brewery, and vast array of outdoor activities all within a short drive. With incredible weather year ‘round, Alamogordo offers comfortable lodging, local eateries, beautiful vistas, adventures, sand and so much more.

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Discover Your Alamogordo

Space Adventure

Alamogordo is known as the cradle of America’s space program thanks to the testing of everything from space suits to rockets at White Sands Missile Range in the late 1940s. Home to Holloman Air Force Base and the New Mexico Museum of Space History, Alamogordo invites you to go galactic on your visit.

Family Fun

Alamogordo is ideal for families looking to go off the beaten path, with activities like sledding at White Sands National Park, riding a “M.T.C.” 1/5 scale train at the Toy Train Depot Museum, meeting a lemur at the Alameda Park Zoo, and visiting the world's largest pistachio.

Outdoor Discovery

Alamogordo is an adventurer’s paradise with unlimited surprises. From journeying through the vast Oliver Lee State Park to experiencing the immense beauty of White Sands National Park, hiking, hunting and camping in Lincoln National Forest and exploring the Three Rivers Petroglyph Site, there’s a unique experience for every outdoor lover.

History and Culture

Touring local vineyards and farms, visitors can savor pistachios and wines from the fields around Alamogordo. Culture lovers will enjoy the Flickinger Center for Performing Arts and history buffs can explore the beautiful Tularosa Basin Museum of History and historical La Luz Pottery site.

WE. ARE. LOBOS. U N M -VA L E N C I A I S M O R E T H A N J U S T A B R A N C H C A M P U S . We are educating the minds that will save lives. We’re teaching students to visualize their dreams and make them reality. We’re teaching students the skills they need to succeed. Students are afforded the opportunity at a lower cost, higher education. From art to pre-engineering and welding to business administration, we have a degree or certificate plan to help you create a more prosperous future. Here, you can be who you want to be — you can be a Lobo!

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Photography by Rhett Zyla, Caballo Lake State Park.

NEW MEXICO STATE PARKS Get out and breathe.

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New Mexico Restaurants Open for Business (continued from Page 20)

In the Four Corners region, New Mexican restaurants tend to have more Native American influence, often featuring a Navajo taco and fry breads. Along the eastern border of the state, New Mexican cuisine is tougher to find. Instead, many restaurants offer Tex-Mex, characterized by lots of melted cheese and sliced jalapenos rather than chilé for a kick. Residents tend to believe that more authentic New Mexican food is to be found at smaller family-owned restaurants than in larger chain restaurants. El Parasol in Española has been a longstanding favorite because everything is made fresh to order. The original El Parasol is right off the main drag in Española, but there are additional locations in Santa Fe and Pojoaque. Chilé rellenos, fried chilé pods stuffed with cheese, differ greatly between eateries, but an unscientific poll we conducted showed Teofilo’s in Los Lunas to have some of the best. Their deep-fried is not beer-battered, which is more common in southern New Mexico, and it stays crunchy through an entire meal.

The Range Café’s multiple Albuquerque locations are a reliably satisfying go-to, especially for the steak tenderloin and the huevos rancheros. Translated “ranchers eggs,” this statewide staple made with homemade flour tortillas, refried beans, red or green chilé, eggs and cheese hits the spot any time of day. When those ingredients are rolled up in the tortilla instead of served flat on a plate, the meal is called a breakfast burrito and is also commonly eaten any hour of the day – often on-the-go, handheld in foil. Another favorite, carne adovada, which is primarily a pork and chilé sauce, may be served with burritos, enchiladas or chilé rellenos. In the north, carne adovada tends to be thicker than in the south. Casas de Sueños has a unique mouth-watering appetizer platter called avocados borrachos. The Tularosa restaurant’s dish comes with green chilé quesadillas, taquitos, fried avocados, a green chicken egg roll and carne adovada chimichangas. El Jacalito Restaurant (translation = Tiny Hut) in Las Cruces is difficult to spot but impossible to forget. Owned by twin brothers, the restaurant boasts excellent tacos and a double meat, double cheeseburger with a slice of ham, bacon, and avocado, and a frank on top. It takes two people to finish it. If that’s too much, we were told to order the red chilé enchiladas. In Santa Fe, you cannot go wrong with the red chilé at The Shed or just about anything at Tomasita’s, which also has an Albuquerque location off Interstate 25 near Jefferson Avenue. Other Albuquerque favorites are: Sadie’s, Padilla’s, Church Street Café, El Bruno’s, Duran’s Central Pharmacy, El Pinto, Taco Shel (featuring the original recipes from the original Taco Sal), La Salita and many, many more.

Chilé Relleno side with green chilé from El Jacalito Restaurant

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Vick’s Vittles at Wyoming and Central Avenue in Albuquerque is often hailed as having among the best breakfast burritos. The reasonably priced Cowboy Burrito has a bit of everything – egg, potato, and chunks of country fried steak topped with a white-green chilé gravy. Vick’s jalapeno piñon blue corn pancakes are as unique of a New Mexican breakfast as you’re likely to get anywhere.

North - Central New Mexico

VACATION DIRECTORY

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NORTH-CENTRAL

Sixty miles north of Albuquerque on I-25, historic Santa Fe has world-class art galleries, museums, and restaurants, and is the seat of state government. Explore the fascinating history of the Palace of the Governors on historic Santa Fe Plaza amid the city’s signature Pueblo Revival architecture. Savor local cuisine at any number of restaurants, or grab a bite from a food cart's tasty hand-held faire on the plaza. Known as a world class ski area for decades, Taos Ski Valley has gained renewed attention since a $300 million redevelopment gave it a facelift that includes a new hotel, a spacious children’s center and other added amenities that can be enjoyed year-round. Skiers and non-skiers alike benefit from Taos' clean air and magnificent views, rich spiritual traditions, creative inspiration, abundant outdoor recreation, shopping and varied dining. A day in Taos will change your outlook and perhaps even your style. For additional winter sports options, check out Angel Fire Resort, which opened in 1966 as a small ski destination. Now it is a four-season resort offering a memorable Rocky Mountain experience for families, outdoor enthusiasts and groups. Located 8,600 feet above

sea level, the resort has views of Wheeler Peak, the highest point in New Mexico. Eight miles south of the Colorado border, the small town of Chama boasts elk habitats, clean rivers, hunting, fishing, rafting, hiking and camping, as well as a must-see night view of the Milky Way. Serious hikers can pick up the Rio Grande Bosque Continental Divide Trail not far from town. Chama’s train depot is the western terminus of the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. It was planning to be open for the 2020 season as of June 13, offering daily steam excursions. Visit https://cumbrestoltec. com/ for updates. Chama also hosts an annual Fourth of July fireworks display, and in the fall, the area around Chama is one of the best places in the state to see brilliant foliage.

Choose Your Own Adventure in New Mexico (continued from Page 19)

various locations that can have deposits several feet thick. You can break it off in smaller pieces with a hammer or other implement, like a chisel or spade. If you’re intent on leaving with treasure, be prepared to spend several hours on the hillside. The park is open 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. For updates, visit http:// www.emnrd.state.nm.us/SPD/rockhoundstatepark.html. Camp sites are available nearby. The nearest towns with hotels are in Deming (11 miles) and Las Cruces (58 miles). For the less rugged, a leisurely walk in the park is a beautiful way to connect with both nature and loved ones. The Albuquerque BioPark is open for a one-mile Garden Walk through many of the most beautiful areas of the ABQ BioPark Botanic Garden, named by the Travel Channel as among the Top 12 in the country. Let this pathway lead you on a sublime self-guided journey of color, whimsy and natural wonder. To minimize face-to-face contact, tickets for the Botanic Garden must be purchased online, in advance. Guests will choose a time and date when they purchase tickets online

and must arrive within a half-hour of that time with a printed ticket or a ticket on an electronic device. To ensure social distancing between guests, the park is limiting the number of timed tickets available each day. The on-site Shark Reef Cafe will offer limited dine-in service (50 percent capacity) and the garden shop will be open. You can order online ahead of time from the Shark Reef Cafe for dine in or carry out. Outdoor food and beverage options and outdoor kiosks for merchandise purchases will also be offered. Guests are encouraged to take their own reusable water bottles, as public water fountains will be turned off. Restrooms will be available and will be cleaned and sanitized frequently. All BioPark staff will be required to wear face masks. All guests are also required to wear face masks per the executive order of the Governor of New Mexico. The zoo and aquarium at the BioPark remained closed as of deadline for this publication. For details and the most current information, visit www.cabq.gov/culturalservices/ biopark. (continued on next page)

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Choose Your Own Adventure in New Mexico (continued from previous page) By Boat There’s no better way to escape the heat or feel like you’re on vacation than skippering a boat or going for a swim. You can enjoy fishing, boating, water skiing, swimming and scuba

diving at Elephant Butte Lake State Park, New Mexico’s largest State Park. It can accommodate watercraft of many styles and sizes: kayaks, jet skis, pontoons, sailboats, ski boats, cruisers, and houseboats. The park is limited to dayuse from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. Visitation will be kept at approximately 25 percent capacity. All anglers are required to have a New Mexico fishing license. For the latest information, call 575-744-5923. From the air Few sights bring as much joy as the vibrant rainbow colors of hot air balloons. To ride in one is near sublime. Hot-air balloon rides are available many places in the state. Private companies in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, Taos, Las Cruces and Gallup, to name a few, offer year-round excursions. So, your choice may be dictated by where vacation plans take you or by what you want to see from above. For example, Taos rides will provide a bird’s eye view of the Rio Grande Gorge. Albuquerque rides let you see the expanse of the city against the Sandia Mountains; some pilots will add to the excitement by lowering the balloon for a near-dip into the Rio Grande before lifting skyward again. In Gallup, float through red sandstone canyons and towering rock spires. Many companies provide light refreshments and even champagne for the older kids. Expect to pay about $200-$300 per person. Set aside a few hours for the adventure, even though actual flight time typically won’t last longer than an hour. While rides do take place in the open air, some hot air balloon companies have made a few changes to their operations this year for the safety of staff and the public. On historic wheels by track For a trip back in time and some breathtaking scenery, plan to ride The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad out of Chama, N.M., and into southern Colorado. The steam locomotive has pumped its way across the Rocky Mountains since 1880 and is still a thrilling way for train buffs and children of every age to experience “the sounds, steam and steel, and grit of a

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Choose Your Own Adventure in New Mexico

VACATION DIRECTORY

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bygone era in travel." Riders will see wildflowers, 600-foot deep gorges, wildlife, and vistas of snowcapped peaks. The train is scheduled to operate a regular season through October 18. Please be aware that all passengers will be required to wear face masks. You can provide your own or purchase one at the depot. Reservations may be changed for this season without any fee. This information is subject to change. Be sure to visit https:// cumbrestoltec.com/ or call 888.286.2737 for reservations and updates. A contemporary ride As New Mexico’s day parks and city entertainment venues open in phases, families that want to see it all at their own pace from a vehicle other than the car in their garage might opt for renting an RV. A self-contained motor home and travel trailer lets you be in control of your environment inside and out, and have ample space for you, the kids and perhaps even the family pets. You aren’t alone if this sounds

ideal. RV rental companies in New Mexico were seeing a surge in rentals as the state started to open for business in June. So, call in advance for the best selection. Some companies rent vehicles that are privately owned by individuals, such as RvStewartRentals, www.newmexicorvrentals. com/ and outdoorsy.com in Albuquerque. Outdoorsy’s site also provides a list of popular nearby hiking trails and campgrounds, parks and cities. It even has a list of FAQs that are helpful if you’ve never rented an RV. Other companies rent from an inventory, such as the national Cruise America, 800.671.8042. Either will get you out of Dodge and into a new environment with an adventure of your choice. No matter where you journey or how you get there, here are a few items to always have on hand: a face mask, as required by executive order of the Governor of New Mexico; water bottles filled with water (fountains may be shut off); and plenty of sunscreen.

50% capacity. 100% commitment. COVID-19 restrictions are easing. While Santa Fe isn’t back to normal, customers are cautiously going out to dine. And coming inside to shop. By committing to SANTA FE SAFE, local businesses have made a promise to protect your health and the health of our employees. Visit santafesafe.com to learn more about this program.

SANTA FE COMMUNITY FOUNDATION

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