MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI MAGAZINE
Make Room for ’Shrooms
ROOTED IN HAWAI‘I 10 Rare Endemic Plants JULY-AUGUST 2022
HIDDEN HA‘IKŪ Charming Tropical Estate FLYING HIGH Maui’s Longest Zipline FUTURISTIC FARM Smart Science on Lāna‘i
N A D L S I
VOL 26 / NO. 4
VOL 26 NO. 4 US/CAN $4.95
M AU I M AG A Z I N E . N E T
L I V I N G
“Its authenticity, intimacy, hospitality, cultural integrity and sheer romantic beauty have made this Maui’s top lū‘au.” F r o m m e r ’s M a u i
H awa i i M a g a z i n e
“This is the best lū‘au on Maui. I rate it the best in the state.” Featured in:
Emeril Live National Geographic Traveler New York Times The Travel Channel K a h i l i A wa r d s
1999 “Show”, 2000 “Attraction” Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau
Voted “Best Lū‘au”by Maui Residents Zagat Sur vey
“Excellent” “Extraordinary to Perfection” For Reser ved Seats Call
(808)667- 0700 www.oldlahainaluau.com 1251 Front Street, Lāhaina Along the ocean in Historic Lāhaina Town
Serving Hawaii Is Our Business
Pasha Hawaii delivers the broadest scope of ocean transportation services between Hawaii and the Mainland. Our fully enclosed, roll-on/ roll-off vessel M/V Jean Anne provides superior protection for cargo of all sizes and direct service between the Mainland and Maui. Find out more at pashahawaii.com.
PHH_Maui_No_Ka_Oi-printad-March2018.indd 1
3/15/2018 9:56:15 AM
BE A MINDFUL TRAVELER. As we welcome guests to Hawai‘i, we’re making sure that mālama —“to care for” in Hawaiian— is top of mind. As part of our commitment to help keep the Aloha State healthy and vibrant, we’ve partnered with travel2change to inspire guests to leave the Islands better than when they arrived.
travel2change.org/alaskaair
RAISE YOUR GLASS Join world-class vintners, sommeliers and top chefs on Maui for a luxury wine and food event curated in partnership with “wine therapist to the stars” Christian Navarro of Wally’s Wine & Spirits. Our inaugural event was awarded Robb Report’s “Best of the Best” New Wine Festival 2019. fourseasons.com/mauiclassic | 808-874-8000 @FSMaui | #FSMauiClassic
TABLE OF CONTENTS
26
ISLAND BUSINESS SEEDS OF CHANGE Technology meets tomatoes at Sensei Farms Lāna‘i. By Sarah Ruppenthal
Features
30
ADVENTURE HAWAI‘I ON HIGH Flying, forests and fun — Kapalua Ziplines is a must-do activity. By Lara McGlashan
Island Living SPECIAL SECTION
40
AT HOME HIDDEN HA‘IKŪ Inspired by Balinese design, this North Shore property is island living at its best. By Sarah Ruppenthal
50
ROOTED IN HAWAI‘I NATIVE PLANTS This photographic essay captures the beauty of Hawai‘i’s rare and endangered endemic plants. By Zach Pezzillo
Bamboo flooring and vaulted tongue-andgroove ceilings are just two of the standout features at this Ha‘ikū hideaway. At Home, p.40
12
MauiMagazine.net
56
GARDENING MINDFUL GARDENING Which native plants work best where you live? We ask an expert. By Lara McGlashan
58
RESOURCES HOME & GARDEN DIRECTORY Your go-to list for trustworthy local trades.
JONATHON RUSSELL
Cover: This image of a rare hibiscus, captured by photographer Zach Pezzillo, resembles a hula dancer in motion — the perfect celebration of our islands’ flora.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Departments
18
CONTRIBUTORS It takes a lot of talent to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.
20
PUBLISHER’S NOTE By Diane Haynes Woodburn
22
TALK STORY Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. By Lara McGlashan
Dining
80
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Looking for something to do? Here’s what’s happening on Maui.
81
WHO’S WHO These local folks are making the Maui scene.
82
62
FEATURE THE FUNGUS AMONG US Blewits and cloud ears and turkey tails … oh boy!
68
CHEF’S KITCHEN NOW HEAR THIS Try this recipe for shrimp and wood ear mushroom dumplings.
Stories by Becky Speere
70
MIXOLOGY MUSHROOM BUZZ The Murder Hornet from Esters Fair Prospect will have you buzzing!
72
DINING GUIDE Hungry? Check out this short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island.
PAU HANA How to Speak Chicken By Lara McGlashan
MIEKO HORIKOSHI
These shrimp and wood ear mushroom dumplings with kojipickled radish florettes are a work of art — tasty, too! Chef’s Kitchen, p.62
14
MauiMagazine.net
Living
OCEAN ALOHA Visit the Aquarium of Hawaiʻi. Future generations depend on the actions we take today.
TICKETS | mauioceancenter.com
SHOP | @mauioceantreasures
DINE | @seascapemaui
MASTHEAD
BR I N G H AWA I ‛ I HOM E . There’s a saying known in the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too. Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn Group Publisher Michael Haynes
One-of-a-Kind Artwork & Sculpture
Creative Director John Giordani
Editor-in-Chief Lara McGlashan
EDITORIAL
Consulting Editor Rita Goldman Dining Editor Becky Speere Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere MARKETING & ADVERTISING
Sales Manager Brooke Tadena Sales Associate Benjamin Barreras Advertising Sales (808) 242-8331
Wood, Ceramic & Glass Creations
ADMINISTRATION
Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION
Subscription Inquiries Toll-Free: (844) 808-MAUI (6284) Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services Hawai‘i MagNet | In-Room Maui Circulation
Fine Jewelry, Hawaiian Crafts & More
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Lara McGlashan, Zach Pezzillo, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Ron Dahlquist, Mieko Horikoshi, Aaron Lynton, Jason Moore, Zach Pezzillo, Jonathan Russell E-MAIL: Info@MauiMagazine.net
Moving? Send address changes to: Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Please note: If your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year of notification.
Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi and Kā‘anapali magazines
Lahaina w Makawao w Pa'ia The Shops at Wailea www.mauihands.com
16
MauiMagazine.net
90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print) | ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2022 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly subscriptions: U.S., $24; Canada, $44; Foreign, $64. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net. Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.
¹
SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS
The best choice for this year’s staycation is the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor. Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Island Woodcarvers
Atlantis Submarine
Papa‘aina Restaurant
Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com
CONTRIBUTORS
mana‘o radio
Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).
ListenerSupported
KMNO-FM
Sarah Ruppenthal is an award-winning journalist and freelance writer. Her stories have appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, The Honolulu Star-Advertiser and The Maui News, among others. When she’s not working on a story, Ruppenthal can be found relaxing at home on Maui’s north shore with her husband, Matt. Island Business (p.26), At Home (p.40)
Drawing on his experience as a high-end carpenter, Jonathon Russell combines his love of fine craftsmanship with his love of photography to present unique luxury architecture and design to the world. Straight lines, elegant details and natural light inspire his artistry. jbrlifemedia.com | IG @jbrlifemedia
Photographer Jason Moore is a long-time contributor to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine who spends his winters working with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration as a research and rescue assistant. Always up for an adventure, he was excited to shoot our zipline story. jasonashleymoore.com Adventure (p.30)
Lara McGlashan has been a writer and editor for more than 25 years, and currently serves as editor-in-chief of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine. She resides in Kīhei with her son and cattledog, and learns something new every day about her island home. @laraoxyeditor Talk Story (p.22 &
At Home (p.40)
AT
91.7 FM And Online At:
ManaoRadio.com Still non-commercial, non-profit, extremely eclectic.
24), Adventure (p.30), Pau Hana (p.82)
Zach Pezzillo won his first photography award at age 12, and today is recognized as one of Hawai‘i’s finest photographers. As a Maui native, Pezzillo is acutely aware of the precariousness of our Islands’ native species. He has partnered with The Nature Conservancy to collect footage of many rare and endangered forest birds, and currently works with Maui’s plant extinction prevention program. zachpezzillo.com | IG @zpezzillo Cover, Rooted in Hawai‘i (p.50)
18
MauiMagazine.net
Maui’s Most Intimate Beachfront Wedding and Event Venue 65 Hana Highway, Paia | 818.473.5166 @SurfClubWeddingsandEvents SurfClubWeddingsandEvents.com
65 Hana Hwy, Paia | 808.707.9752 @HanaHouSurfClub “Voted Maui’s #1 Local Eatery”
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
“This is for you,” said chef Tylun Pang as he handed me a makana, a present, wrapped with rafia. It was 2017, and Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi had invited chef Pang to design the menu for our Holiday Test Kitchen and to be our mentor in its creation. He had graciously accepted, and on the day of the event, arrived with cooler after cooler of fresh ingredients and all the tools necessary to carry out the preparations. He also had printed up a lovely keepsake menu for each participating staff member to take home. “Why am I getting a gift?” I asked, a little embarrassed. He was giving us so much already. “Because it’s island style,” he said. “You never come to someone’s home empty-handed.” Chef Pang set the bar for island style, epitomizing the best of Hawai‘i and how we love and give. He understood the link between family and community, and how food is the common thread that holds us all together. “Food in a Chinese family is very important, and everyone participates in its preparation in some way or another,” he once told me. “When I was a child, my uncle owned a food stall in [Honolulu’s] Chinatown, and my grandmother was the head chef at Yong Sing, a Chinese restaurant that served delicious dim sum. Some of my fondest memories are wandering in the market with my father and eating freshly sliced char siu [barbecued pork], and watching my grandmother make dim sum at home.” Dim sum translates as “touch the heart,” and those bite-sized, flavorful pockets would become a chef Pang specialty. In fact, they were one of the featured delicacies on our Test Kitchen menu, and one which we toiled over happily under his guidance. “What greater homage to pay to friends, family and guests than to share our culture?” he said as I sampled our hard-earned dim sum (which, for the record, was amazing). “Trends come and go, but the history of a place is always around you.” Chef Pang celebrated the history of the Islands through his cooking. In the 1800s, immigrants came to Hawai‘i to work on the plantations. Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, Korean and Filipino — each group had its own camp, but off the clock, as workers mingled in the fields and mills, their culture and traditions began to influence one another. Chef Pang elevated this uniquely Hawaiian plantation-era fare to an art, creating a sensory experience of time, place and flavor as a tangible expression of love for the islands he called home. During his 40-year career, chef Pang earned numerous accolades, including the very first ‘Aipono Chef of the Year Award in 2002, the ‘Aipono Friend of Agriculture Award in 2012, and the ‘Aipono Lifetime Achievement Award in 2014. He led the culinary team at the Fairmont Kea Lani Maui for more than 25 years, and under his guidance, the resort’s signature restaurant, Kō, won the ‘Aipono Award for Best Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine every year since its opening in 2012. Chef Pang also was poised to receive an honorary doctorate degree from the University of Hawai‘i Maui College for his contributions to its culinary program. Though highly accomplished, chef Pang remained a local boy at heart. He gave selflessly, embracing all things pono (excellent) in his everyday actions, including donating the proceeds of his cookbook, What Maui Likes to Eat, to the UHMC culinary program. He embodied the traditional Hawaiian values of humility and generosity, and was a steadfast and encouraging mentor to his staff and students. “I tell the kids, Make me something you love from your mom’s or auntie’s kitchen. Put your own spin on it,” he once told me. “When food is made with passion, it adds a whole new level to the experience.” Chef Pang passed away in his sleep on May 6, 2022. He leaves behind a legacy of love in the food he created and the students he inspired. To me, he was the heart and soul of Maui‘s culinary community. A big man with an even bigger heart, he showed us that taking care of one another is what matters most. For you, chef. Me ke aloha pumehana (All the love of my heart),
Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher
20
MauiMagazine.net
MIEKO HORIKOSHI
For You, Chef
COMING SOON TO WAILEA VILLAGE! 1111NIKKEI.COM
Quality. Consistency. Respect The ‘Āina Brands formula Help us brighten the future of generations to come. Every product you buy will help a child with special needs. 10% of our profits will go directly to Imua Family Services, a Maui-based charity, helping children with special needs access the right care to thrive. theainabrands.com | IG & FB @theainabrands Pacific Gold Ají Amarillo sauce made from Maui grown ingredients. Available through our website
100% Maui Grown Coffee in Medium & Dark Roast in Nespresso compatible pods (or capsules).
TALK STORY Fresh off the coconut wireless
species on the brink
Silversword Story by Lara McGlashan
Haleakalā Conservancy, 1156 Makawao Ave, Makawao | 808.757.9436 | haleakalaconserancy.org | IG/FB @haleakalaconservancy Friends of Haleakalā National Park, P.O. Box 322, Makawao | 808.876.1673 | fhnp.org | IG @friendsofhale
22
MauiMagazine.net
RON DAHLQUIST
Once upon a time, the seeds of a California sunflower with the unfortunate name of tarweed traveled some 2,500 miles across the sea, either in the belly of a bird or embedded in a log, to land on the shores of Maui. Eventually they made their way 10,000 feet up the face of Haleakalā and found purchase in lava nook. After five million years of tweaks and adaptations, the humble tarweed became a one-of-a-kind species found only in Hawai‘i known as ‘āhinahina, or silversword. The silversword’s adaptive design works wonderfully well in its daunting environment. Air pockets in its thick, swordlike leaves swell with water when it rains to protect it from drought, and distinctive silver hairs shield them from sunburn and wind. The leaves are arranged in a parabolic shape that directs the sun’s warmth toward the center of the plant to prevent hypothermia, and at the end of its life, the plant calls upon its distant sunflower DNA to send up a six-foot stalk with hundreds of deep purple flowers. Endemic insects pollinate the blossoms, and the resultant seeds surrender themselves to the wind, and are carried to another semi-hospitable lava nook to continue the cycle. Unfortunately, the silversword’s clever design did not account for human interference. In the early 19th century, visitors to Maui were known to rip up ‘āhinahina as souvenirs, and introduced ungulates found them a tasty treat. Soon, the silversword population was all but decimated, and the species was declared endangered. The creation of Haleakalā National Park helped stop the destruction, and the silversword population began to rebound. However, rising temperatures and changing weather patterns due to climate change continue to imperil their habitat. Fortunately, you can help. Stay on marked trails in the Park to avoid damaging ‘āhinahina seedlings. Donate to philanthropic partners such as the Haleakalā Conservancy to fund restoration efforts, or volunteer with a group such as Friends of Haleakalā to help outplant silversword keiki (babies). If we all do our part, we can help preserve ‘āhinahina for generations to come.
WE ARE A MAUI FARMING COMPANY HERE TO TRANSFORM 41,000 ACRES OF VACANT FORMER SUGAR CANE LAND INTO A THRIVING HUB OF DIVERSIFIED AGRICULTURE.
WWW.MAHIPONO.COM
TALK STORY
Getting Wild On a free Sunday, my son, Alex, and I decide to check out the Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center at Whalers Village in Kā‘anapali. The center, a partnership between Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund and the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary, is a place for visitors and residents to learn about our native species and gain a deeper appreciation for the Islands. Hannah Bernard, executive director of Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund, greets us and we tour the 5,000-square-foot space. “We have more than 30 exhibits about sea life, Hawaiian culture and conservation,” Bernard says. Alex beelines to a room filled with beanbag chairs. “That’s our Immersive Experience room,” says Bernard. “The film playing is on a six-minute loop so you can enter any
24
MauiMagazine.net
Story by Lara McGlashan
time and stay as long as you like.” I settle into a beanbag next to Alex and am immediately surrounded by the deep blue water of the Pacific; a humpback whale swims slowly across three walls of the room and out of sight. We watch honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) hatchlings flip and flop toward the sea, and spinner dolphins seem to smile as they frolic in the waves. Back in the main hall, we play games on an interactive kiosk and watch a video about how to disentangle a whale — just one of the center’s 45 films created by local filmmakers. In an exhibit about Hawai‘i’s whaling past, we find a beautiful 20-foot ship replica, and though I’m loathe to admit it, the artistry of the scrimshaw collection is impressive. Adjacent to the whaling exhibit is the
Kid’s Zone, a space chock-full of tables, art materials, books and bins. “Here, kids can learn about the danger of plastic pollution, and can make art using debris found on the beach,” explains Bernard. We step into the room and, to Alex’s utter delight, the floor tiles are filled with blue goo that squishes and moves around as he steps on them. The “awareness art” display features creations that use upcycled marine debris as media, including a large piece called “Sharktastic” made entirely of jagged bottles that were either swallowed or bitten by sharks. We end our tour in the gift shop, which sells locally made jewelry, photographs, paintings and more. Because a portion of the proceeds goes to support the nonprofit, donation-based center, we buy a couple stuffies for Alex and head back home. Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali | hawaiiwildlifediscoverycenter.org | IG/FB @hawaiiwildlifediscoverycenter
COURTESY OF HAWAI‘I WILDLIFE DISCOVERY CENTER
Clockwise, from top left: This replica of a whaling ship has such accurate detail, you’d think it sailed right out of the 1800s! The center has more than 30 exhibits, including an 82-inch screen that plays one of 45 Maui-focused films. Is This Yours? All the debris in this display was found on Maui’s beaches. Let nature engulf you in the Immersive Experience room.
+ E KOMO MAI TO OUR PA‘INA
PRESENT THE 19TH ANNUAL
‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS NEFIT F O R
A
BE
Sat. Aug. 20 Old Lāhainā Lū‘au Call 242-8331 MauiMagazine.net /Aipono2022 AS WE HONOR THE BEST OF MAUI DINING AT
1251 FRONT ST, LAHAINA
FOR TICKETS AND MORE INFORMATION, OR VISIT
BY AUGUST 5 #AIPONO2022
+
SPONSORS
SAUNDERS FAMILY FOUNDATION
ISLAND BUSINESS
Seeds of Change Technology meets tomatoes at Sensei Farms Lāna‘i. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal
26
MauiMagazine.net
Suffice it to say, Sensei Farms Lāna‘i does not resemble a typical farm. There are no rolling green hills, no barns, no livestock, no tractors. Instead, produce grows inside six sleek, solar-powered hydroponic greenhouses, each measuring 20,000 square feet. The reasons for indoor growing are many, including the fact that the greenhouses take up less land and generate a higher yield per square foot. By many estimates, the farm’s 120,000 square feet of indoor growing space is equivalent to 720,000 square feet (16.5 acres) of open fields, according to Humberto Garcia, engineering and operations director for Sensei Farms Lāna‘i. “We believe the future of farming begins when you challenge the status quo, and in our case, that is outdoor farming,” Garcia says. “By bringing farming indoors, we are working to grow high-quality produce in the most sustainable and efficient way possible.” Growing crops indoors lets farmers maintain the temperature, humidity and the
Above: Six solar-powered hydroponic greenhouses provide almost three acres of growing space. Below: A hydroponic system called the nutrient film technique is used to feed the lettuces. A pump circulates nutrient-enriched water through channels underneath where it makes direct contact with the plants’ bare roots. Apart from nourishing produce, this process also uses nine times less water than traditional growing methods. PHOTOS COURTESY OF SENSEI FARMS LĀNA‘I
The first time I saw a package of Sensei Farms’ cherry-red lettuce at Whole Foods Market in Kahului, I did a double take. Oh my goodness, I thought. That’s some gorgeous lettuce. It was almost too pretty to eat, but eat it I did, and it tasted just as good as it looked. The next day I went back for their Lāna‘i Mix, a beautifully curated assortment of baby greens, and was equally satisfied. Fresh and flavorful? Yes. Aesthetically pleasing? Absolutely. But what makes this lettuce even more distinctive is that it’s sustainably grown in a hydroponic greenhouse at Sensei Farms Lāna‘i. The farm is operated by Sensei Ag, an agricultural-technology company cofounded by Lāna‘i resident and tech entrepreneur Larry Ellison, and prominent cancer physician Dr. David Agus. Though Sensei Ag operates a number of research farms in California, the one on Lāna‘i is its only commercial farm in the United States.
Tomato vines thrive in a controlled growing environment that allows farmers to customize conditions such as light, temperature and humidity. Like many hydroponic farms, Sensei Farms Lāna‘i is not certified as organic by the US Department of Agriculture or the National Organic Standards Board, but all of its produce is non-GMO. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2022
27
YOUR PREVIEW HAS ENDED
YEARS OF SHARING MAUI STORIES To see the full issue, click here to purchase a digital subscription.
VISIT OUR DIGITAL PLATFORMS @MauiMag @MauiMag_Eats @MauiMagazine MNKOmagazine MauiMagazine MauiMag