Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine - Fall 2024 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

Epic Swim MAUI

26 EPIC SWIM MAUI

Dive deep into the world’s first expedition swim around the entire island of Maui and its connection to ocean health and research.

WHEN HORSES HEAL

Spirit Horse Ranch in Kula offers an alternative to traditional talk-therapy with equine-assisted interventions.

LINDBERGH’S LAST FLIGHT

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Charles Lindbergh’s last flight to Maui in 1974.

20 GUARDIANS OF THE BEACH

Local volunteers gather at Ka‘ehu Bay each month to clean up the beach and ocean one piece of trash at a time.

52 UNCLE’S MOVEMENT

Former surfing pro, Micah Nickens, launches an islandlifestyle brand to encourage his fellow Uncles to stay active.

56 KALO CONNECTION

Maui locals stay connected to their Hawaiian culture by making pōhaku ku‘i ‘ai and papa ku‘i ‘ai at Lo‘iloa in Pukalani.

Image courtesy of the Frank Mt. Pleasant Library of Special Collections & Archives, Leatherby Libraries at Chapman University.

Daniel Sullivan

Dayanidhi Das

contents departments

ON THE COVER Fifteen of the top open-water swimmers circumnavigated the island in Maui’s first swim expedition, raising awareness for the health of our oceans. Story begins on page 26.

Photo

by Dayanidhi Das

12 TALK STORY

Tales of the island fresh off the coconut wireless. Unko Bobby embodies aloha and po‘okela; island teacher pairs keiki with surf and skate equipment; and a designer upcycles thrifted textiles into custom bags.

38 ISLAND KITCHEN

At Aloha Mixed Plate in Lāhainā, Chef Kaluna Kaauwai brings simple twists to his flavorful plate lunch recipes.

42 DINING GUIDE

Everything you need to know about dining on Maui, from casual bites to luxury experiences.

60 A HUI HOU

A pallid ghost crab tries to scurry away from a wave’s salty sea foam on Big Beach.

62 IN THEIR OWN WORDS

The Ritz Carlton Maui, Kapalua's cultural advisor teaches what responsibility means to him and how aloha spreads around the world.

Chris Amundson

FALL 2024 VOL. 28, NO. 4

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is an internationally-distributed magazine dedicated to exploring the life and culture of Maui Nui. There’s a saying known in the islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

Publisher & Executive Editor Chris Amundson

Associate Publisher Angela Amundson

PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS

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Unwavering Aloha

‘Unko’ Bobby Baraoidan

by Serene Gunnison

IN EARLY 2024, BOBBY Baraoidan celebrated 55 years of employment at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, now known as the OUTRIGGER Kā‘anapali Beach Resort. Known colloquially at the resort as “Unko” Bobby (“unko” is the local-style way of saying uncle, which is an endearing term for kūpuna, or elders, in Hawai‘i), his first day on the job was in February 1969 – a time when twin-engine Cessnas arriving from Honolulu deposited tidily dressed vacationers at a thin airstrip near Kahekili Beach. Drop-top Chevy Bel Airs and Cadillac DeVilles were the rental car status quo, and only three hotels, Royal Lāhainā Resort, Sheraton and Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, stood

on Kā‘anapali’s now-famous shoreline. Through Kā‘anapali’s years of evolution, one thing has remained unchanged: Unko Bobby’s resolute Hawaiian hospitality. His steadfast aloha spirit and pono values have even helped mold the OUTRIGGER Kā‘anapali Beach Resort into what it is today.

In 1986, general manager Mike White and Dr. George Kanahele, an authority on Hawaiian culture, enlisted Unko Bobby’s help in creating the Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel’s mission statement, which emphasized Hawaiian heritage, local lifestyle, ho‘okipa (hospitality) and po‘okela (excellence). In the transition to the OUTRIGGER brand, the

resort’s mission and vision have continued to expand on these values.

“Just putting it together was hard,” said Unko Bobby. “But Dr. Kanehele was instrumental in having us do it. Whatever [Hawaiian values] we learned or used, we put it all together in the mission statement. And it’s still a cornerstone for some of our values here.”

Helping craft the original Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel’s time-honored mission statement is just one of Unko Bobby’s many accomplishments. When a retired Navy commander vacationed at the hotel in 2019, he was so impressed by Unko Bobby that he presented him with a medal. “He called me over one day and said, ‘Here, this is for you,’ ” Unko Bobby said. “He told me it’s something they don’t usually give out, and he told me to remember these two words: Bravo Zulu. That means you did a great job, or job well done.”

Through his position as a bell/valet attendant, Unko Bobby has met some wellknown people. “I’ve met football Hall of Famer Steve Young. I wore his Superbowl ring,” said Unko Bobby. “Also Charleston Heston and Wilt Chamberlain, the famous basketball star. Morgan Freeman, I met him, too.”

Despite the medals and celebrities, Unko Bobby says one of his favorite things about working at OUTRIGGER Kā‘anapali Beach Resort is interacting with guests and learning about their lifestyles. “You can learn a lot [from guests],” he said. “When you talk to them, it’s like you’re traveling to their hometown and living like they do. It’s quite an experience, but you gain a lot of knowledge.”

For those who work in Maui’s hospitality and tourism industry, showing aloha is a job requirement. But for Unko Bobby, it’s a way of life – and embodies all that he is. In addition to making an impression on countless guests over the years, Unko Bobby has donated over 100 hours of sick and vacation time to coworkers in need. “It’s giving from the heart,” he said.

Next time you stay at OUTRIGGER Kā‘anapali Beach Resort, throw Unko Bobby a shaka or stop by the bell/valet desk to say hello. His unwavering aloha might be the most valuable remembrance of your time in Kā‘anapali.

‘Unko’ Bobby Baraoidan throws shaka as he celebrates 55 years of employment as a bell/valet attendant at OUTRIGGER Kā‘anapali Beach Resort.

Jason Moore

Nonprofit gives Maui keiki ‘golden ticket’ to exercise

Access to surf and skate equipment key to relationships

by Savy Janssen

ONE OF THE ATTRACTIONS of living on Maui is the proximity to amazing yearround ocean sports.

When last August’s horrific wildfires left many families without their beloved surf equipment, Brit Oliphant did not wait around. The Kula Elementary School teacher and founder of the nonprofit, Boards 4 Buddies, rounded up hundreds of boards, clothing and other supplies from professional surfers and skateboarders, top-name brands, the island community and beyond.

It’s what she does.

Since founding Boards 4 Buddies – a 501(c)(3) organization that connects deserving youth with pre-loved surf and skate equipment and safety gear – in 2021, Oliphant and her B4B ‘ohana have distributed more than 600 boards to island keiki.

Her unique position as both teacher and passionate surfer-skater allows Oliphant to identify kids in need and pair them with

boards, beginning with one particular fourth-grader she bonded with over skateboarding. The student, clearly fascinated by the sport, did not own a skateboard nor could his family afford to purchase one, which deeply impacted Oliphant.

“Growing up, if I wanted to try a sport, I had the support of my parents who could afford to get me the gear,” she said. “The lack of access that I saw in the public school system was so surprising to me, and it immediately became something I wanted to help solve.”

She shared her thoughts with friend and professional skateboarder Zach Miller, who offered to get Oliphant’s student the necessary gear, and Boards 4 Buddies was born.

Today, Miller is a core part of the B4B team, along with board-shaper Nic Hibdige. Pros Matt Meola, Paige Alms, Shea Donavan, Ian Gentil, Jesse Richman, Albee Layer, Tony Hawk and Jimmy Wilkins

are additional “big buddies” of note joining the Boards 4 Buddies cause.

In addition to the obvious health benefits of outdoor activities, Oliphant cites other positives associated with board sports she’s observed while balancing fulltime teaching with running a nonprofit.

As a mode of transportation, a skateboard provides access to the wider skating community – which often gets a bad rap, Oliphant suggested. “But if you go to the parks, it’s 9- to 90-year-olds and the most supportive group.”

Surfing and skating are both essentially free, Oliphant further noted. “There are no lift tickets, no league fees – once you have the board, you have the golden ticket.”

Moving forward with Boards 4 Buddies, Oliphant hopes to create an Upcountry youth center – a safe space with a mentorship component where kids can hang and maybe even learn a thing or two about fixing or building boards. “By forging lasting relationships, we hope to eliminate the ‘Santa Claus’ effect,” she said.

Most of all, Oliphant loves watching the results. “To see a kid on a board we gave them is incredible,” she said. “That’s when we know that what we are doing is making a difference.”

Boards 4 Buddies founder, Brit Oliphant (left), shares her passion with island keiki. boards4buddies.org

Waterwoman plunges into design

After cliff-diving injuries sidelined her athletic career, Ashley Baxter finds a new purpose in upcycling thrifted finds

by Mona de Crinis

MOST OF ASHLEY BAXTER’S early memories took place on, under or near a massive patchwork table in the back of her parent’s Kahului store. It shielded her during spirited games of hide-and-seek with her brother, supported paper and pencil for homework assignments, and propped her up when she was sick, splayed out on its generous surface with blankets and a portable DVD player.

Now situated in the Baxter family home in Pukalani, where it eats up almost half of a three-car garage, the same table that comforted her as a child today holds Baxter’s adult dreams. It is both anchor and springboard as the 34-year-old former professional waterwoman grows her sustainable brand, Love Winslow, a collection of custom

clutches, totes and shoulder bags repurposed from landfill-bound scraps.

Named after her fearless grandmother, Love Winslow, who traveled the world authoring books on lighthouses, Baxter launched the brand in late 2022, six years after a fifth compounded blackout concussion while cliff diving thwarted the athletic career she never questioned.

Then everything changed. Diagnosed with post-concussion syndrome and restricted to 20 minutes of brain activity a day, Baxter plummeted into a soul-sucking abyss from which there seemed no escape. “I felt dead inside, just black,” she said, calling up the memory.

Always a “glass half-full” person drawn to the light who could find the silver lining

no matter the storm, Baxter struggled in the past to understand the depths of depression that drove friends to suicide. How could one willingly fall on their own sword?

She gets it now. “I didn’t know darkness could be so heavy,” she said.

Recovering for long stretches on the mainland, Baxter discovered thrift, secondhand and consignment stores. She luxuriated in the fabrics and hit the dressing rooms. She modeled designer hand-me-downs and tried on trendy graphic T-shirts, marveling at the weave as much as the fit.

Each time Baxter crossed the Pacific to return to Maui, she brought boxes of thrifted finds to upcycle. It’s in the blood. Her mother – an established industrial seamstress and accountant for an island interior design firm – has been saving discarded fabric samples and remnants for over a decade. And plastic bags were always washed and reused, Baxter said appreciatively, long before conserving was cool.

Back on island for good and at a

Ryan Siphers (Both)

crossroads, the young woman could either live with her parents and follow her true north or get some 9-to-5 job and likely still have a roommate. “That was a no-brainer,” Baxter said with a laugh. “Especially when that guiding star aligns with your own mother’s proven skills and experience.”

While sharing a home and workspace with your mom may not thread everyone’s needle, it’s been the gift Baxter didn’t even know she wanted. The months spent honing her craft and soaking up maternal wisdom (and a dash of chutzpah) handed down over generations wasn’t just a smart decision – it was the right decision.

Despite the economic fallout from the wildfires, Baxter sold more than 200 Winslow bags in her first year through monthly bag drops on social and custom orders, her current bread-and-butter and heart’s calling.

Working with clients in studio allows Baxter to create personalized works of luggable art from repurposed materials – denim from a vintage pair of Levi’s, a piece of curtain, an old car seat for the leather trim – of their choosing.

“One kid wanted a bag for his mother with ‘I love you, Mom’ embroidered on the inside,” said Baxter, her blue eyes misting as she sits cross-legged on the massive patchwork table where she will later spin straw into gold.

Ashley Baxter crafts Maui made custom bags and totes from thrifted textiles.

LINDBERGH’S LAST

Flight

by Ron J. Jackson, Jr.

CHARLES A. LINDBERGH stared at death on a mid-August afternoon in 1974. He did so just as he stared at the open ocean beneath him during his legendary, solo transatlantic flight from New York to Paris in 1927 – fearlessly.

Cancer had ravaged his 72-year-old body by then. He had been diagnosed with lymphoma the previous October, and in the ensuing months, doctors administered blood transfusions and chemotherapy. The radiation caused him to drop thirty pounds on his already lean frame, and as one biographer noted, “for the first time he looked his age.”

A 26-day stay at the Columbia-Presbyterian Medical Center in New York ended with one, sobering reality: Doctors could do no more. The famed aviator was dying.

Lindbergh turned to his beloved wife, Anne, and shocked her by saying, “I want to go home – to Maui.”

2024 marks the 50th anniversary of Charles Lindbergh’s last flight to Maui.

Four years earlier, Lindbergh built a rustic, A-frame home on a hundred acres of plush grassland near the remote village of Kīpahulu in southeast Maui. Lindbergh loved the people of Maui, as well as the solitude of the remote Hawaiian home, where the incoming dirt road often washed out after heavy rainstorms. He felt protected there, and the locals felt protective of him.

The house he christened “Argonauta” offered no electricity. He and Anne instead used propane to power the appliances and kerosene to fuel the lighting. This was Lindbergh’s paradise, and now he wanted to return there to die – and to be buried.

Doctors warned him he’d never survive the flight back to Hawaii. Lindbergh doggedly ignored their objections and arranged for a flight against their orders. “I love Maui so much,” Lindbergh said. “I would rather live one day in Maui than one month in New York.”

On Aug. 19, Lindbergh was secretly laid across a row of first-class seats on a United DC-8 behind a section curtained off from other passengers. He and Anne were joined by two of their three sons,

“… If I take the wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea ...”

– Charles A. Lindbergh’s epitaph Psalm 139:9-10

acres near a remote village of Kīpahulu in southeast Maui.

Jon and Scott. Land, their third son, would meet them in Hawaii. Reeve Lindbergh – the youngest of the five surviving Lindbergh children – acknowledged the journey felt “legendary” in her diary, “mythical even.” Reeve proudly added, “the three sons taking their father back to the homeland…”

Lindbergh, of course, survived the flight from New York to Honolulu and then a short, ambulance plane ride to Maui. Anne would later compare her husband’s last flight to his legendary solo flight of 1927, noting, “no one believed he could do either and survive.”

For the next several days, Lindbergh took ownership of his death, from arranging the construction of his traditional Hawaiian grave by local friend Tevi Joseph Kahaleuahi, Sr. to the design of his handhewn coffin to the biblical-inspired epitaph on his headstone. He even selected the humble clothes he would wear: a pair of worn, gray cotton pants and a khaki shirt with no belt or shoes. He even signed a book contract for his unpublished autobiography.

Lindbergh left no detail to chance.

“I had feared that frustration over the weakness in his body

would betray him into helpless anger and hopeless dependency, both unbearable for me to witness,” Reeve wrote later. “I should have known better.”

Reeve told her father that it was “wonderful for us, his children, to see how he faced this,” and he replied in a typical, testy fashion that it wasn’t a question of ‘facing’ anything. Lindbergh proved pragmatic and philosophical in the end, saying he viewed death as “no longer an ending, but an opening.”

Lindbergh drew his last breath on Aug. 26, 1974, with his wife by his side. He was buried in a traditional Hawaiian grave lined with lava rock on the grounds of the nearby Palapala Ho‘omau Church, which was first built in 1864 on a majestic cliff overlooking the ocean.

Lindbergh’s book – Autobiography of Values – was published posthumously in 1977. The last paragraph in the book fittingly reads: “I am form and I am formless. I am life and I am matter, mortal and immortal … the molecules of my being will return to the earth and the sky. They came from the stars.

“I am of the stars.”

Library of Congress (left page); Daniel Sullivan

The brave pilot who became the first to survive a solo flight across the Atlantic knew where in the Pacific he wanted to spend his last days: 100

GUARDIANS

by Serene Gunnison

On the fourth Sunday of each month, Cheryl King of SHARKastics hosts a community beach cleanup at Ka‘ehu Bay in Wailuku.

“What do I do with this metal?”

“I think that’s part of a golf ball.”

“I’ve got some linoleum.”

“Fiberglass, over here.”

It’s a Sunday morning, and two dozen volunteers are busy sorting through pounds of debris. Forty-four bins are spread out beneath a large canvas tent, each labeled to categorize every type of trash imaginable. The bins soon fill up with plastic lighters, derelict buoys, faded aluminum cans and hunks of styrofoam – all collected from the shoreline 100 meters beyond the tent. This scene unfolds regularly at Ka‘ehu and elsewhere on island as SHARKastics, an impact term King coined in 2003, works to clean up Maui beaches.

A combination of the words “shark” and “plastics,” SHARKastics is King’s educational organization and passion project that underscores the effects of marine pollution and debris ingestion by ocean wildlife. King, a dedicated Maui conservationist, founded SHARKastics in 2003 after observing marine debris riddled with bite marks. Taking action, she began hosting SHARKastics beach cleanups and awareness events and has been cleaning up Ka‘ehu monthly since 2012.

The Ka‘ehu event isn’t your average beach cleanup. Rather than tossing all the collected trash into the dumpster, King and her team of volunteers diligently sort and count every last piece of debris – a task King says “is like Groundhog Day.” Every month, she finds the same type of debris over and over, like lighters, toothbrushes, single-use plastic and derelict fishing gear. Everything gets weighed and the sorting begins, followed by a detailed accounting of each item by her knowledgeable team.

But before any of that can happen, King and her volunteers must scour the shoreline.

Twenty five volunteers spread out across Ka‘ehu’s 4,000-foot cobblestone shoreline, armed with gloves, plastic buckets and grain bags. Before setting out, King tells the group that the beach is “relatively clean.” Yet sifting through piles of driftwood revealed myriad marine debris: fishing nets, weed trimmer lines, a yellow chunk of plastic with faded Korean letters and, sure enough, a few toothbrushes and a handful of plastic lighters.

The deluge isn’t surprising. Ka‘ehu’s location makes it a magnet for marine debris. Tucked between the hamlets of Paukukalo and Waiehu, Ka‘ehu Bay faces northeast – directly exposed to the

BEACH OF THE

Chris Amundson

SHARKastics’ Cheryl King and her dog, Tauzer, lead monthly cleanups of marine debris at Ka‘ehu Bay. She founded the project in 2003 to examine the impact of plastics and other trash on ocean wildlife.

After the collected debris is sorted, some items are used for art projects or otherwise upcycled rather than adding to the landfill. Pieces with noticeable bite marks (bottom right) are stored for further research.

tradewinds that hammer Maui’s leeward sides. The fierce breezes push marine debris from near and far onto the Ka‘ehu shoreline.

To make matters worse, Ka’ehu is located between the Waiehu and Iao Streams, which can send land-based debris careening into the ocean, eventually washing up at Ka‘ehu. The entire stretch of Wailuku’s northeast-facing coastline is vulnerable to marine debris pollution, but it is especially painful at Ka‘ehu.

Centuries before plastic was even a glimmer in someone’s eye, Ka‘ehu was a playground for the ali‘i (royalty), revered for its surfing spots and freshwater spring, which was believed to have healing powers. Bountiful wetlands, taro patches and fishponds defined the landscape. Monk seals would haul onto Ka‘ehu’s warm, dark sands, and turtles would nest here frequently –and occasionally still do. Ancient cultural sites like shrines, agricultural terraces and habitation structures continue to be discovered in the area.

Ka‘ehu is now in the hands of a non-profit organization of the same name, which is working to restore the area’s natural resources and perpetuate traditional Hawaiian cultural activities – keeping the coastline free from plastic pollution is essential to that mission.

The Ka‘ehu cleanups attract a varied crowd, each with a different reason for being there. Twyla, a visitor from Canada, makes a point to attend a SHARKastics cleanup with her family each time she is on Maui. “[The cleanup] reminds us, as tourists, not to overuse plastic here,” she says. “It keeps us mindful. It really promotes community. Instead of coming and using, you give back to Maui.”

Wyatt from Wailuku and 10-year-old son, Koa, have particpated in several cleanups over the years. They fish and dive from the point with Koa’s cousin, who lives just up the street. “It’d be nice to try to clean up where we live,” said Koa.

As Twyla fills up two buckets’ worth of fishing line and other debris, Wyatt is on his hands and knees, unearthing a rusted truck axle from the sand. He and his son begin the arduous process of dragging the axle across the beach and up to the sorting zone.

After about an hour and a half of cleaning, sorting gets underway. It’s like a

Cheryl King (All)

Jason Moore; SHARKastics (left)

Cheryl King/Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission

backward apocalyptic scavenger hunt as volunteers search for the appropriate bins for each piece of debris. There’s a category for just about everything, from PVC pipes to toys and grooming tools. But the most intriguing is the SHARKastics bin, reserved for plastic pieces with visible bite marks. Already, there are several pieces in the bin.

“We don’t know exactly what animals are eating [the plastic],” King says as she holds up a blue jug shredded with bite marks. “It’s a multitude – fish, turtles, birds, sharks.”

King says she started collecting biteridden pieces over 20 years ago to decipher which animals munch and what they’re mostly munching. So far, white seems to be the debris color of choice.

“I have this giant warehouse full of samples from each cleanup, thinking this is going to make a great research project someday. It’s kind of stupid,” she said with a laugh. “I haven’t had time to analyze it, so I keep collecting. I’m just waiting for some brilliant person to help with all this.”

In the meantime, King aims to raise awareness about marine debris pollution. In this endeavor, she has been wildly successful.

One helper named Bruce has been volunteering with SHARKastics since he moved to Maui from Los Angeles eight years ago. “I’ve grown so much to be aware of trash and avoid plastic, and that’s because of this,” he said, gesturing to the sorting party bustling around him.

Next month, the shoreline will likely be littered again with marine debris, and the process will begin again.

Since 2013, the SHARKastics team has removed more than 33 tons of debris from Maui Nui coastlines with no plans to stop.

While some may consider plastic pollution an unremitting global crisis – a lost cause – King and her volunteer army remain committed to making Maui, our neighbor islands and the ocean healthier for all living things – one piece of trash at a time.

SHARKastics volunteers gather and sort trash collected at Makamaka‘ole for analysis. A massive biannual cleanup of West Maui’s Makamaka‘ole requires helicopter assistance to remove the debris. A mountain of trash (opposite page, top) was cleared during King’s first cleanup at Kaho‘olawe. | sharkastics.org

Cheryl King

EPIC SWIM MAUI

COMBINING CULTURE WITH SPORT AND SCIENCE

story by Mike Morris

photographs by Dayanidhi Das

The world's first expedition swim around Maui spanned 140 miles over 13 days as a call to action for ocean health and marine science.

Robby Seeger had been looking to reconnect with the ocean. The former professional windsurfer wanted to spend less time working his construction job and more time in the deep blue water surrounding his island home.

During the pandemic, he was having a glass of wine with a friend in Ha‘ikū when inspiration struck: “I’m going to swim around Maui.”

Seeger then paired up with an accomplished German swimmer who would do the journey with him, however, as time went on his vision grew. Eventually, Seeger stepped back as a participant and became the organizer of a much broader event aiming to combine sport, science and Hawaiian culture. “The ocean is my happy place,” the 54-year-old said. “I needed a breakout project. My strengths are connecting people and outside-of-the-box thinking. I wanted to create something new based from the heart.”

His project manifested as Epic Swim Maui: In July, the world’s best open-water swimmers swam 140 miles around Maui to bring awareness to ocean health and science (swimmers wore special sensors that tracked critical data for scientists) as well as Hawaiian culture (the event honored the legacy of famed waterman Duke Kahanamoku).

The entire swim, along with interviews from community leaders and cultural practitioners, was filmed for a multi-part documentary due next year.

Adventure of a lifetime

The world’s first expedition swim around the entire island of Maui featured 15 of the top open ocean swimmers from 12 countries and six continents.

The 20-day event kicked off July 7 with an opening ceremony in Hāna followed by the closing ceremony in Wailea. There were a total of 13 days of swimming, plus seven rest days. Nighttime accommodations ranged from tent camping to modern condominiums.

Because of the length of the event, most swimmers couldn’t commit to the entire expedition, so they swam a portion of it.

Ryan Leong, a 53-year-old endurance athlete based on O‘ahu, was one of the three swimmers from Hawai‘i who swam around the entire island. The other

Epic Swim Maui brought together swimmers from beyond the island, including India, Egypt, Chile and Ghana. Ryan Leong of O‘ahu swam the entire length; others, only a portion. Each swim day featured 6 to 8 hour treks across the waters.

swimmer to complete the whole trek was Andy Donaldson, an ultra-marathon swimmer from Scotland.

Leong said they typically swam 6 to 8 hours per day, taking short breaks to drink water and eat snacks such as energy gels and traditional poi.

“We had some really tough days,” Leong said, noting how the ocean waves bounced off the cliffs outside of Hāna creating rough conditions and what he called a “washing machine kind of motion.”

“What drew me to this was purely the adventure of it,” he added.

Swimmers represented countries including India, Egypt, Chile and Ghana. Athletes

ranged from 26 to 66 years of age.

Swimming is typically a solo sport, but during Epic Swim Maui they swam together as a group. “It was not a race,” Seeger emphasized.

The renowned swimmers included Sarah Thomas, who previously swam the English Channel four times non-stop.

Many of the swimmers posted about their experience swimming around Maui on their social media accounts.

“There were many adventures had, from swimming with all kinds of marine life including sharks, seals and dolphins, to getting stung by man o’ war to swimming in 8-foot swells to sitting with cultural leaders

to hear more about the history of the island and people,” wrote Jonathan Ridler, an endurance swimmer from New Zealand.

“The biggest highlight was the people. The swimmers, the crew, the safety team. We came in as strangers and left as family.”

Connected to the ocean

Epic Swim Maui is an official activity of the United Nations Ocean Decade, a 10-year global initiative working toward ocean sustainability.

The expedition swim featured an element of citizen science, with the swimmers using cutting-edge technology to help collect data for scientists to analyze.

The opening ceremony was held at Hāna Bay before Queen Ka‘ahumanu. The Hāna Canoe Club sent off the swimmers with a sunrise blessing ceremony before they embarked into the waters for a near 16-mile swim towards Ke‘anae.

The team worked with researcher Dr. Dimitri Deheyn of the Scripps Institution of Oceanography at the University of California, San Diego, to collect samples to test for microplastic pollution.

Deheyn said Epic Swim Maui allowed him to get samples of air and water for microplastic analysis in places that he otherwise would not have been able to reach.

“Working with the athletes and the local community also helped me put the data into a unique framework, a unique context, which made the analysis of the samples even more meaningful to me,” he said via email from Europe.

Swimmers also helped research PFAS, known as “forever chemicals,” for the Hereon Institute in Germany.

Leong said he had an unintrusive device tied to the back of his goggle strap that would measure salinity and temperature. He and the other swimmers would also swim out and take samples in collection containers.

Seeger said a main objective of the event was to call attention to ocean health.

“This is more than just an extreme sport, I want to raise awareness for the ocean,” he said. “I think we need to raise awareness of how connected we humans are to the ocean.”

Celebration of Hawaiian culture

About a week into the swim, a community event held at the OUTRIGGER Kā‘anapali Beach Resort featured a screening of the award-winning documentary Waterman.

The 2021 film honors Duke Kahanamoku, a Hawaiian competition swimmer who popularized the sport of surfing. His “legacy of ocean stewardship serves as a guiding example to us all,” event organizers said.

Seeger said the Olympic gold medalist is the embodiment of the aloha spirit.

“Duke would say, ‘In the water, we are all equal. It doesn’t matter who you are or where you come from,’ ” Seeger said.

The expedition was a feat against ocean waters as swimmers navigated 50-knot winds and 8-foot swells toward Nu‘u Bay. Their perseverance allowed for critical scientific research as the swimmers wore sensors to help track microplastic pollution and detect “forever chemicals.”

Swimmers moved as one, protected by a safety team on watch for sharks from day one from Hāna Bay (right) to the victory swim from Mākena Landing to Molokini.

Kahanamoku’s great nephew even swam with the Epic Swim Maui group, bringing awareness to youth drowning and swim education through the Outrigger Duke Kahanamoku Foundation.

“It was never just about the swim,” Seeger said. “It’s a global celebration of Hawaiian culture. We are building the future by understanding the past.”

Seeger said the project received support from respected kūpuna to local politicians. Partners included the County of Maui, Hawai‘i Tourism Authority and Maui Brewing Company.

Safety was a priority with doctors, emergency medical technicians and professional lifeguards on hand. The crew, lead by

renowned waterman Archie Kalepa, Mark Pokini and Kurtis Chong Kee, created a barrier with five jet skis and underwater Seabobs so the swimmers could swim in the middle.

If a shark was spotted, the swimmers would temporarily get out of the water. In one instance, Leong’s “joyful” reaction to seeing a shark helped change the perspective of a fellow swimmer who feared them.

Ha‘ikū resident and award-winning filmmaker Stefan Schaefer was brought on board to capture stunning footage documenting the swim while weaving in cultural stories from each of Maui’s 12 moku, or traditional land divisions.

Schaefer envisions a full-length feature film along with a six-part series for a streaming service. Because swimmers flew in from around the world and the team worked with international scientists on the topic of ocean health, he said the project has wide appeal. “It’s really a global story,” Schaefer said. And to think that it all started over a glass of wine on what Seeger called “a lonely Ha‘ikū night.”

“It has been two years of my life – hundreds of Zoom calls, public meetings,” said Seeger, who was inducted into the Windsurfing Hall of Fame last year. “I really do believe that it’s such a special swim. I do see it as the Mount Everest of open-water swimming.”

A seclusive ranch with inclusive equine therapy is helping Maui self-regulate

WHERE THE FAMED BACKROAD to Hāna, HI-37, snakes across verdant expanses peppered with scoria and ‘ohi‘a trees, the Pacific Ocean churning below, cattle roam free and wild goats skirt the hillsides like pied phantoms glimpsed but never seen.

Out here, in the shadow of the House of the Sun, a person can breathe. Solitude wraps around you like a warm blanket, and you can almost hear the heartbeat of Haleakalā match your own. Along the volcano’s

southwestern flank, pulsing with primal energy, the elements are feral, weary life stripped to shreds in the wind, emotional baggage splintering in the pounding surf.

Out here, amid the black rock and battle brush, where Bully’s Burgers and a honey stand mark the turnoff to Spirit Horse Ranch, healing happens. Operating out of Triple L Ranch – one of Maui’s few remaining cattle ranches – the nonprofit founded by ranch matriarch, Paige DePonte, provides equine-assisted learning, therapy and intervention for trauma survivors and their caregivers.

story by Mona de Crinis | photographs by Daniel Sullivan

Handed down through Louis DePonte, Paige’s late husband, Triple L Ranch has been in the DePonte family for more than 70 years. Now widowed with sole responsibility, she supplements the island’s shrinking ranching industry with diversified revenue streams, including horseback tours, art, equine and wilderness therapy, and other wellness offerings.

Acknowledging the benefits of neocortexto-neocortex treatment, DePonte is a trained mental health practitioner with certifications in multiple alternative therapies and often works in tandem with conventional therapists on difficult cases. Spirit Horse Ranch’s experiential approach fills in the gaps left silent in concrete and steel, while also suggesting that there can be moments of joy in healing.

Near the last lava flow and far from the noise of traffic, a pair of enclosed pens promise unrealized recovery in a scenic dell a short drive from the intake area – an open-air, three-sided, lounge-like structure with cushy seating and a safari-inspired floor where DePonte explains the process and potential results of equine therapy.

The client is assigned a therapy horse and trained facilitator, who ferries them down a scabrous dirt road to the pens where sessions take place. On the radio, an old Willie Nelson tune keeps time with each bump and every jostle as the truck pinballs across rock and earth.

“My oldest doesn’t like country music,” offered the driver, Maurissa, who is also DePonte’s daughter and one of the ranch’s four certified Equine-Assisted Learning facilitators. “But that one song, “God’s Country,” by Blake Shelton, I think – she loves that because it reminds her of this place.”

TUCKED BETWEEN THE highway and the ocean in an orange embrace of flowering wiliwili, the natural clearing carries the positive vibration of neighboring Waiakapuhi Lava Field and the faint scent of sandalwood from the naio shrub. Below, the Pacific thunders.

In the first arena, a 12-year-old boy quietly reads to a horse several hands taller than him. Four weeks earlier, he wanted nothing to do with the gentle mare.

Diagnosed with oppositional defiance disorder, the boy was fighting in school and was even worse at home, DePonte remembered. “We had Beauty work with him. She schools all the little ones,” she said.

The boy was clearly puzzled by Beauty at first. She would look at him, walk a few paces and wait. “What do I do?” the boy inquired. “Follow her,” DePonte responded. A few tentative steps, and he was by her side.

Beauty and the boy continued this way: the horse leading and the boy catching up, until they had circled the ring. On the last leg of their disjointed maiden journey, the boy reached for Beauty, and Beauty was there.

“They formed this incredible bond over several weeks,” DePonte said. “He read to her from books, and she listened like a patient grandmother.”

As of the last update from the family, relationships at home had improved and there

were noticeably fewer incidents at school as the young man learned to identify, express and better regulate emotions rather than act out in frustration. By talking to a horse, he had found his voice.

DePonte launched Spirit Horse Ranch in 2021 to help Maui youth ages 13 to 17 – an underserved demographic, in her opinion –access the inner resolve needed to navigate an increasingly challenging world. “When you’re trying to recover from trauma, being in an open, safe environment with positive energy and few distractions is important,” she said.

When wildfires ravaged Lāhainā and parts of Kula last August, DePonte and her team of certified EAL facilitators expanded their

At Spirit Horse Ranch, the horses are an integral part of the nonprofit’s therapy and intervention practices. Mental health practitioners and facilitators offer clients a different avenue to process trauma through equine-assisted activities.

mental-health services, offering free sessions to anyone on island struggling with the fires’ aftermath and cumulative despair enshrouding the island in recent years. “First there was the botched missile alert, then came Covid, inflation and then the fires,” she said. “We’ve had one hit after another – people need help. And they need it now.”

Shiras Manning, a physician’s assistant specializing in trauma surgery, came to Spirit Horse Ranch to help her cope with the absorbed pain and grief of impacted patients compounded by several failed in vitro fertilization treatments over the same period. “It’s all been really taxing,” she said, adding that many in her field seek ways to shake off the residue and unearth long-buried unease.

Employing horses rather than human counterparts and an island paradise for an office, Spirit Horse Ranch presents a viable alternative or adjunct to traditional talk therapy for the more than 800 people who’ve since sought assistance.

“Some folks don’t feel comfortable walking into a therapist’s office with four walls,” acknowledged DePonte. “There may be a window and some pretty pictures, but it can feel claustrophobic. Outside people – like many of us on Maui – are not used to being shut in.”

Whether walking, brushing, stroking, talking to or simply bonding with a horse, these rhythmic, repetitive actions initiate the process of recognition and release as

clients find comfort in the animal’s unconditional acceptance.

“Horses don’t judge,” DePonte said. “They love, and they listen. Except for Angel,” she adds with a grin. “Angel doesn’t like profanity. She feels the energy behind it, and she will let you know – in every language.”

Horses can tune into human feelings –even to our scents, DePonte said. They often understand human emotions before we can recognize them. The horses then communicate those feelings and emotions to facilitators who help the clients.

“We call ‘em poly horses,” DePonte said. “You can’t lie to a horse.”

If the horse makes a little nipping motion during session, it’s a gentle reminder to get real and be honest, DePonte said. An abrupt halt during a walkabout may signal a need for more time or reflection on a topic. A horse picking up unchecked anger or other emotion

beneath the surface might dig the ground or stomp its hoof.

Sometimes the horse just holds space, the head dropping as the animal processes a human’s pain. “Sometimes the horses cry,” DePonte said. “Tears running down – we are trained to watch for the subtlest of signs.”

With DePonte or another facilitator guiding the conversation, they ask clients to describe what’s going on with the animal. As they run through scenarios – is the horse stressed? is she angry? is she unhappy? – the client begins to connect the horse’s external behavior to their own inner strife.

The goal of the program is to help clients achieve what DePonte calls “emotional stasis.”

“It’s all about resetting and rebuilding neurons and mindfulness,” she said.

“If we can shift it within ourselves, we can shift it to help others. Because on an island, no one feels good when our neighbors suffer.”

Working with horses helps ground clients as they process their emotions in a safe and supportive Upcountry environment.

Plate Lunch Power

Aloha Mixed Plate in Lāhainā shares with spirit of Pacific ‘ohana

Chef Kaluna Kaauwai adds his twist to traditional recipes

story

and photographs by

Chris Amundson

AT ALOHA MIXED PLATE, the openhearted spirit of ‘ohana reaches across the Pacific, welcoming Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Filipino cuisine onto its plates.

Aloha Mixed Plate Chef Kaluna Kaauwai grew up near Ma‘alaea, a busy harbor since Captain George Vancouver landed in 1793 with his boatload of cattle. Immigrant laborers from all around the Pacific later worked on Maui sugar and pineapple plantations.

Kaauwai remembers two plantation houses where the Maui Ocean Center, built

in 1998, on three acres by Coral World International, now stands. One of the two houses belonged to his family.

In his childhood home’s big backyard, the family would cook kālua pua‘a, roast pig, in an imu, an underground oven, enough to feed 50.

His mother made mac salad, with imitation crab, olives, green peas, carrots, mayonnaise, carrots, salt and pepper, “super basic and delicious. Simple is always better,” Kaauwai said.

Kaauwai recalls his island’s history of sharing. Plantation workers shared their food from their cultures with each other: from Japanese tradition, shoyu chicken; from Polynesian, lomi lomi salmon; from Chinese, chow fun; and locally, poi.

Dining on these dishes, guests can look out at the waters and imagine the journeys that brought such varied cultures to the harbor. As a child, Kaauwai lived near enough to the harbor, a two-minute walk, that he could fish and dive every day.

Chef Kaluna Kaauwai grew up loving food not just from his own culture but also from those all around the Pacific. At the Ma‘alaea Harbor, where he fished every day throughout his childhood, he heard tales of immigrant workers who shared their food with each other.

Crab-Stuffed Mahi Mahi

1/2 lb blue crab meat

3 green onions, finely chopped

1/4 sweet onion, diced small

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 egg

1 Tbsp red bell pepper, diced small

2/3 cup mayonnaise

1 tsp kosher salt

1 tsp black pepper

6 Tbsp panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)

The flavor on the immigrants’ plates was simple, and so is Kaauwai’s food.

Kaauwai favors simple Filipino-style salad cooking ingredients: heavy on the ginger, and heavy on the garlic. Cooking lalo, a Haitian soup, is a little more difficult. “It’s easy to get wrong,” he said. “You overcook the jute leaves, the leaves fall apart. Undercook it and you get an itchy mouth.”

At Aloha Mixed Plate, Kaauwai puts his own touch on traditional recipes, such as adding oyster sauce to some dishes for a little bit of sweetness. Kaauwai’s favorite protein is kalbi short ribs. But he’s not opposed to sometimes offering a fancier dish, such as stuffed mahi mahi with blue crab and shrimp. It’s a good idea to keep watch on his menu for specials.

Kaauwai earned an associate degree in culinary arts at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College Culinary Arts Program. He got his big break as an 18-year-old by working with one of his teachers, Kim Chu, at the now-closed Blue Marlin Harborfront Grill in Wailuku. Chu mixed things up.

“We butchered a lot of fish, and mix in some Italian food. He didn’t necessarily have a written recipe,” Kaauwai said. “He invited me to watch him. My dad was like that; my dad never had anything written down. It was always cooking to taste.”

Kaauwai’s approach to cooking is rooted in trusting his instincts, a lesson learned from years spent with his father and mentors in the kitchen. The colorful flavors of Maui and its people provide plenty of inspiration for the chef's creative takes on familiar fare.

“Everybody has their own little twist on a dish,” Kaauwai said. “I could have a different recipe from the guy down the street. I don’t think any one local is really ever the same.”

11/2 lbs mahi mahi

In a medium size bowl, mix all ingredients (excluding mahi mahi) until well combined. If mixture is still wet, add panko to adjust. Mixture should be able to form a ball in your hand without falling apart.

Portion mahi mahi into 3-4 oz pieces and butterfly to create a pocket for the stuffing. Season with salt and pepper and add stuffing. Grease a baking pan and place stuffed mahi mahi in the oven at 350° for 20 minutes. After cooking, place mahi mahi on a plate with a scoop of rice. Top with pineapple salsa.

Serves 4

Delight your guests with this Aloha Mixed Plate dish of spicy tropical sweetness: grilled and diced pineapple combined with the sweet tang of onion, red bell pepper and a punch of jalapeño, complementing blue crab-stuffed mahi mahi.

Pineapple Salsa

1 lb fresh pineapple, sliced

1/2 cup sweet onion, diced small

1/3 cup red bell pepper, diced small

2 Tbsp finely chopped cilantro

1 jalapeño, diced small

2 limes, juiced Salt and pepper, to taste

Grill the pineapple slices until slightly charred. Let cool then dice small. Mix all ingredients in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Chill until ready to use.

Loco Moco

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

2 tsp beef base

1 lb ground beef

1 cup diced sweet onion

1 tsp black pepper

1 cup panko breadcrumbs

1 Tbsp minced garlic

1/4 cup oyster sauce

8 eggs

1 green onion, sliced

In a large bowl, mix Worcestershire sauce and beef base until the beef base is dissolved. Stir in the ground beef, onion, pepper, breadcrumbs, garlic and oyster sauce until well combined. Form the mixture into patties of desired size. Cook in a pan over medium-high heat until a slight char crust forms on the patties.

To assemble, place a hamburger patty over rice in a bowl. Cover generously with brown gravy and add two eggs cooked any style, along with a side of mac salad. Garnish with green onions.

For the gravy

8 cups water

2 Tbsp beef base

1 Tbsp chicken base

1 cup unsalted butter

1¾ cups all-purpose flour

In a large pot, add water, beef base and chicken base. Stir until dissolved. Bring to a boil. In a separate pan, melt butter then add flour, stirring until the mixture becomes a slightly brown paste. Remove from heat.

When the base stock comes to a boil, add the butter-flour mixture slowly while stirring continuously. Gravy should be thick.

Chef Kaluna’s Mac Salad

1 lb macaroni elbows

3 boiled eggs, chopped

2 Tbsp celery, finely chopped

1/4 cup carrots, finely chopped

2 cups mayonnaise

1/2 tsp black pepper

1 tsp salt

In a large pot, add enough water to cover pasta by at least 2 inches. When water boils, add macaroni elbows. Cook 12 to 15 minutes al dente. Strain pasta and cool.

In a large mixing bowl, combine pasta and all other ingredients. Mix well. Refrigerate. If the noodles absorb too much of the mixture, add a few extra tablespoons of mayonnaise.

Serves 4

Korean Wings

For the sauce

1/4 cup white sugar

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup aloha shoyu

1/4 cup Kikkoman shoyu

1 tsp minced garlic

1 tsp minced ginger

1 tsp white sesame seeds, toasted

1 tsp sesame oil

1 tsp Korean chili flakes optional

Mix all ingredients in a large bowl until sugar dissolves. Set aside or refrigerate until ready to use.

For the chicken wings

2 lbs chicken wings (or chicken thighs)

1 cup flour

1/2 cup cornstarch

1 tsp salt

1/2 tsp pepper

Combine all dry ingredients in a medium bowl. Mix well. Toss chicken in dry mixture and shake off excess flour. Deep fry chicken 350° until golden brown until internal temperature of chicken is 165°.

Toss chicken in the Korean wing sauce. Garnish with green onion and white toasted sesame seeds. Korean chili flakes optional.

Serves 4

Aloha Mixed Plate reopened its doors on Front Street in early 2024, where Chef Kaluna proudly serves the Lāhainā community and beyond with his signature flavors and local mixed plate offerings.

Dining Guide

B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m.

R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 $$$$=$40+ =2023 ‘Aipono Restaurant Award winner =Live music! Check venue website for information. Phone numbers are area code 808.

WEST SIDE

A‘A ROOTS Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 103, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. Vegan. B, L, $

ALALOA LOUNGE  The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Creative farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and an exciting selection of savory dishes from the dining menu, such as spanish octopus, smash wagyu burger, and tuna carpaccio. International/Lounge. D, $$$

ALOHA MIXED PLATE 1285 Front St., Lāhainā, 6613322 This oceanfront restaurant offers innovative plate lunches and other island favorites. The titular aloha mixed plate comes with shoyu chicken, thinly sliced teriyaki rib eye and fresh fish. Mixed Plate. L, $$

AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259 Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with poke. Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $$-$$$

BAD ASS COFFEE 3636 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lāhainā, 738-8223 Hawaiian coffee blends, breakfast sandwiches, and stuffed muffins are located just across the way from Honokowai Beach Park. Coffee Shop. B, L, $

BANYAN TREE The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., 665-7089 Start with a seafood tower for two. Then try the banyan tree seafood curry or wild caught New Zealand king salmon. End with a warm island-inspired malasada trio. Great cocktails, too! Italian/Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$$$

BURGER SHACK The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Al fresco beachside joint serving burgers, milkshakes, cocktails and beer. American, L, $$-$$$

CANE & CANOE  Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the avocado toast and mimosas for breakfast, and herb compressed lamb and ragout for dinner. Lunch at the Hana Hou Bar includes chicken katsu sandwiches and vegetarian selections. Pacific Rim. B, D, $$$-$$$$

CHOICE HEALTH BAR Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali All juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are made with fresh ingredients from dozens of local farms on Maui. Daily specials. American. B, L, $

CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish tacos to accompany your poolside mai tai or Bikini Blonde Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $$

COCO DECK 1312 Front St., Lāhainā 451-2778 Savor creative dishes by Chef Alvin Savella while taking in the ambience of Front Street. Try the crispy poke donut! Mexican, Seafood. H, D, $$

DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC LŪ‘AU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$

DUKE’S BEACH HOUSE Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or filet mignon at this open-air beach house. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$-$$$

FOND Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., #115, Nāpili, 856-0225 Enjoy a specialty burger or bowl for lunch and try the seafood tsunami for dinner. Finish off with a warm chocolate brownie topped with ube ice cream. Eurasian. B, L, D, $-$$

THE GAZEBO Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621 Have breakfast for lunch, or lunch for breakfast! Fluffy pancakes, omelets, plate lunches with Cajun-spiced chicken or kālua pork, salads and seven burgers to choose from. Ocean views are free! International. B, BR, L, $

HONOLUA STORE 502 Office Rd., Kapalua, 6659105 Market in the Kapalua Resort with extensive selection of grab-and-go items like salads, sandwiches and sushi. Made-to-order pizzas, burgers, hot sandwiches and breakfast items are also available. Deli, B, L, $-$$

HONU OCEANSIDE 1295 Front St., Lāhainā 6679390 Treat yourself to masterful culinary creations and stunning views as you dine on fresh fish oceanside. Try specialty cocktails like Charanda Daiquiri or Shark's Tooth. Pacific Rim, B, L, $-$$

HULA GRILL  Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar, and enjoy poke tacos, mai tais, original hula pie and live music. Don't miss the nightly hula show after dinner. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. BR, L, D, $$-$$$

INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Inu means “drink” in Hawaiian, and this poolside bar serves up island-inspired cocktails, local beer and wine. Sip and snack on pūpū, burgers, wraps and salads Hawai‘i Regional/Bar. L, H, D, $-$$

ISLAND CREAM COMPANY Lāhainā Gateway, 305 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 298-0916 Classic flavors meet island fruit! Make your own Glacier Ice snow cone, or choose from 36 delicious flavors of ice cream. Can’t decide? Take home a few pints. Treats. $

ISLAND PRESS COFFEE 2580 Kekaa Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2003 Homey coffee shop in the Fairway Shops serving hard-to-find Maui grown coffee beans. Start your day with a cup of Maui Red Catuai or a Hawaiian Honey Latte. Don't forget to add a breakfast croissant. Coffee Shop, B, $

JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4909 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are among the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono Silver for Pacific Rim Cuisine in 2023. Come taste Pacific Rim. D $$$-$$$$

JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 Start your day with delicious ube french toast or a kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village, and end with dinner at the Nāpili venue. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $-$$

KIHEI CAFFE Lāhainā Gateway Plaza, 305 Kiawe St., Lāhainā, 879-2230 See South Shore listing.

LEILANI’S ON THE BEACHWhalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with mac nut hummus, and ‘ahi poke with taro chips. Entrees include filet mignon with green onion gremolata or Parmesan-crusted fresh catch. Don’t forget the Hula Pie! Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$-$$$$

LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 Try the house-made sandwiches on Maui Bread Company bread with pineapple coleslaw. The mac-nut chocolate cream pie and fresh-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance! American. B, L, D, $

LONGHI’S Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2288. Try a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. BR (Fri-Sun), D, $$

MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-9394 Māla delivers delicious food and killer cocktails with oceanfront seating. Start with an oyster shooter and some ‘ahi bruschetta. Then dig into seared scallops with truffle pesto, huli huli chicken with warm potato salad, or the daily catch with kabocha puree. Mediterranean. BR, H, D, N, $-$$$

MAUI NUI LŪ‘AU AT BLACK ROCK Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Experience the history and culture of the Valley Isle through Polynesian song and dance. Lei greeting, all-you-can-eat Hawaiian buffet and open bar included. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$

MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on locallysourced seafood, beef and produce to create delectable fare. Pacific Rim. BR (Sun), L, D, R, $$-$$$$

MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Shore listing.

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing.

MYTHS OF MAUI LŪ‘AU Royal Lāhainā Resort & Bungalows, 2780 Keka'a Dr., Lāhainā, 877-2737394 Enjoy all-you-can-eat Hawaiian fares like kālua pork, Moloka‘i sweet potato and fresh fish. Menu also includes keiki friendly choices like chicken nuggets and baked mac and cheese. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, $$$$

NAPILI COFFEE STORE 5095 Napilihau St. 108B, Nāpili, 669-4170 Start your day with a fruit smoothie and a savory sandwich, or pop-in for a coffee and baked treat. Fresh-baked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding and to-go items. Coffee Shop. $

OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-0700 This oceanfront venue has won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Lū‘au on Maui 20 times – come see why! Begin with kalo (taro) hummus, then enjoy traditional Hawaiian dishes like lomilomi salmon or imu-roasted pork. Save room for the mangococonut chocolate bombe! Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$

PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL

3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929

Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D, $-$$

ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999

Line up for the half-pound Maui Cattle Co. burger on a brioche bun for lunch. For dinner, try the blackened ‘ahi or the honey-mustard-glazed beef short ribs. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$$

LAHAINA NOON Royal Lāhainā Resort & Bungalows, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119

Breakfast offerings include loco moco or coconut french toast, or go for the buffet to try a bite of each. For dinner, feast on steak and seafood. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$-$$$$

THE SANDBAR Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031

Sample craft cocktails and island bites while enjoying an ocean view on the lanai at Kā‘anapali's only lobby bar. Hawaiian/Bar. B, D, $$

SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR

600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a sip of sake. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R, $$$

THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesdays, stay for Grammy Award-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Slack-Key Show. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$

SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce will rock your evening. Sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N, $$-$$$$

STAR NOODLE 1287 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-5400

Big-city style and local flavors unite. Enjoy a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea as you drink in the view of Lāna‘i across the channel. The ramen broth is extra smoky, the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. ‘Aipono for Best Asian and Noodles. Asian. L, D, $$

SUNSET LŪ‘AU AT KAPALUA BAY Montage at Kapalua Bay 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6627 This twiceweekly lū‘au caps at just 40 guests for an intimate experience. Dig into plates of ‘ulu mac salad, ribeye and kanpanchi poke. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au, D, R, $$$$

TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426

House-made pasta, agrodolce-style fish of the day and Italian desserts stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Great wine, cocktails and craft beer. Italian. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$

TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers and charbroil them to order. American. L, D, $

ULU KITCHEN The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-0081 A chefdriven restaurant led by award winning Chef Peter Merriman, serving up local dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Hawaiian. B, L, D, $$-$$$$

‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock

back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lāhainā’s rowdy whaling past. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$$

WAILELE POLYNESIANLŪ‘AU  Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Lāhainā, 661-2992 Sunset lū‘au featuring Polynesian entertainment and fire dancers on Kā‘anapali Beach. Menu runs the gamut of traditional Hawaiian and contemporary island fares. Lū‘au, D, $$$$

SOUTH SHORE

AKAMAI COFFEE CO. 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., #100, Kīhei, 868-3251 and 116 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 868-0003 Offering 100 percent Maui-grown coffee roasted locally for the highest-quality flavor. Espresso, French press and nitro brews available. Coffee Shop. $

AMA BAR & GRILL Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 Swim-up bar located at the Fairmont Kea Lani resort offering refreshments, lunch and ocean views. Hawaiian/ Bar. B, L, D, $$

AMIGO’S 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 661-0210 Real Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas and their famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D $

THE BIRDCAGE Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi, St., Wailea, 874-8581 Elegant, high-ceilinged bar in Hotel Wailea. Japanese-inspired tapas, small plates, wine and an extensive list of craft cocktails. Japanese/Lounge. D, N, $$$

BLING BING South Maui Gardens, 30 Alahele Pl., Kīhei, 419-1256 Maui's only Chinese shave ice experience with condensed milk topped with fresh fruit, boba and jellies. Treats. $

BOTERO LOUNGE Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the surrounding Fernando Botero sculptures, this lounge offers nightly entertainment. On Thirsty Thursdays, a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Lounge. L, D, H, N, $

CAFE O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. See Central listing. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$

COCONUT’S FISH CAFE  Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 and 2463 S. Kīhei Rd. Kīhei, 875-4949 Dive into fresh fish tacos, a grilled fish burger or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D, $$

COOL CAT CAFE 1819 S Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 6670908 New location, same ‘Aipono Award-winning eats. Burgers, chicken, fresh fish, tacos and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $

DA KITCHEN 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Ste. E, Kīhei, 446-3486 Local food and good vibes meet! Spam musubi, chicken katsu, kalbi ribs, locomoco and da Hawaiian plate. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$

DIAMONDS BAR & GRILL 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 874-9299 Casual watering hole with live music, billiards, TVs and darts. Daily food and drink specials, outdoor seating and late-night offerings. American/ Bar. B. L. D. $$

DUO STEAK AND SEAFOOD Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748000 Breakfast buffet or à la carte? Did someone

mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim/Steak. B, D, $-$$$

EARTH ALOHA EATS 1881 S Kīhei Rd. 111, Kīhei, 867-1171 Plant-based family favorites like tacos, burgers, wraps, plates and bowls. Vegan. L, D, $

FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Bagels and lox, fresh croissants, caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza and spaghetti with pork sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. HR, D, $-$$

FAT DADDY’S SMOKEHOUSE 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711 Pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs smoked 15 hours over kiawe wood. Enjoy sides: cornbread, chili-garlic beans and two cabbage slaws: sweet/tart and blue cheese/apples. American. D, $-$$

FEAST AT MŌKAPU LŪ‘AU Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 5731234 Upscale beachside lū‘au with an emphasis on Polynesian voyaging history. Known for its unique cocktails and artful, chef-crafted traditional Hawaiian plates served family-style. Lū‘au, D, $$$$

FERRARO’S RESTAURANT & BAR Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748000 For lunch, enjoy a veggie quesadilla or grilled tenderloin sandwich served poolside. For dinner, ahi rigatoni. Italian. L, H, D, $$$$

FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten-free, dairy-free options. International. L, D, $

LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, a locally sourced

menu, swanky cocktails and performances by local musicians. Pacific Rim/Lounge. H, D, N, $$$$

GATHER ON MAUI 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 698-0555 Try a mana bowl with citrus vinaigrette or the scallop and crab orzo with mac nut pesto. Panoramic views. Pacific Rim. H, L, D, $$$

HAVENS 30 Manao Kala St., Kīhei, 868-2600 Eat noodles with chopsticks in one hand and a smash burger in the other! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $-$$

HAVENS HARBORSIDE Maui Harbor Shops, 300 Mā'alaea Rd. 2M, Mā'alaea, 868-0555 The Havens you know and love with some additional offerings, right in the harbor. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$

HOME MAID CAFE 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 8746035 Family-owned hole-in-the-wall known for its made-to-order malasadas. Classic breakfast plates, saimin and sandwiches. American/Local. B. L. $

HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Beach Resort, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi amazes with Hawaiian sweetbread French toast for breakfast, calamari and a Magnum P.I. cocktail at happy hour, and Roy’s classic blackened island ‘ahi for dinner. Hawai‘i Regional. B, H, D, $-$$$

HUMUHUMUNUKUNUKUĀPUA‘A Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8751234 Idyllic restaurant constructed from Big Island ohia wood overlooking Wailea Beach. Menu features a balance of land and ocean sourced Hawaiian fares like Huli Huli chicken and miso butterfish. Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$$$

ISANA Maui Beach Vacation Club, 515 S Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-5700 Dine on bold sushi made from fresh-caught local fish while enjoying friendly service and an ocean view. Japanese. D, N, $$

ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $

KOHOLĀ BREWERY 112 Wailea Ike Dr, Wailea, 8680010 Talk story while enjoying a singature IPA and local-style bar food. Brewery. L, D, N, $$

KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 A Wagyu hangar steak on a green papaya salad, charred octopus with local goat cheese, Kona abalone risotto, and a modern take on chicken and waffles. Curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D, $$$$

KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888 Eye-catching art and Indian relics accent a menu highlighting exotic spices and dishes, all lovingly created from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L, D, $-$$

KIHEI CAFFE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230 Hungry at 5 a.m.? Head to this local hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco and a cuppa joe. Cafe. B, L, $-$$

KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock” – three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock to sear them to perfection. 2022 ‘Aipono Restaurant of the Year. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, R, $$$

KRAKEN COFFEE MAUI 1975 S Market Pl., Kīhei and 1 Piikea Ave., Kīhei 495-1885, 879-2230 See Central listing

LE BAZAAR Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S Kīhei Rd. #107, Kīhei, 268-0545 Start your dining experience by cleansing your hands with orange blossom water, then immerse yourself in the sights, sounds, and flavors of the Middle East through a six-course dinner, ending the night with Moroccan mint tea. Moroccan. D, $$$$

LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with local seasonal ingredients, such as lychee, liliko‘i (passion fruit) and Hawaiian navel oranges, pair perfectly with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Asian Fusion/Lounge. H, $

LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If Cantonese lobster noodles and leeks, ginger and XO butter, crispy Korean chicken with pickles made in house, and Wagyu Kalbi short ribs with garlic rice get your juices flowing, head to Wailea. Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D, $-$$

MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into authentic chicken scaloppine. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N, $$

MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Co. beef and Italian sausage, or ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$-$$$

MAUI BREWING CO.  605 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 201-2337 This off-the-grid brewery offers 36 craft and specialty beers, as well as burgers, pizzas, fish tacos and salads. Brewery/Pacific Rim/American. L, H, D, N, $-$$

MAUI THAI BISTRO Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-5605 Thai food cooked by Thai chefs. Kaffir-scented tom yum fried rice, green mango salad with crispy fried-fish filets, and house curries. Beer and wine bar. Thai. L, D, $-$$

Miso Phat Sushi

Miso Phat Sushi in Kihei, on the southwest coast of Maui, offers the Sushi Combo Platter B – 12 pieces of Nigiri (Japanese-style small balls of hand-pressed rice topped with raw protein: kanpachi, maguro, snapper, salmon, hamachi and tako) and a spicy tuna roll. Sides like Sriracha increase the spice.

MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to-go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! See also West Side listing. Japanese. L, H, D, $$

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman chain includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner, Big Island rib-eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage and banana cream pie. See also West Side listing. Hawai‘i Regional/American. L, H, D, N, $$

MORIMOTO MAUI 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 243-4766 Headed by celebrity chef Masaharu Morimoto, this sleek restaurant in the Andaz Maui Resort fuses Japanese and Western fares. Enjoy wagyu steaks, sushi and sashimi paired with premium, aged or nigori sake. Japanese/American. L, D, $$-$$$

MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE  100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131 Guinness poured properly at Maui’s only Irish-owned pub. Enjoy fish and chips, bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Great music and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish/ Bar. L, H, D, $-$$$

NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILL  Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8918650 Generous portions made with local ingredients served with aloha. Try the ahi club fresh yellow fin tuna, with applewood smoked bacon and caramelized Maui onions on sourdough. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $-$$

NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Enjoy classic seafood dishes beneath the stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R, $$$$

NOODLES AND RICE BY NUTCHAREE Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd. #128, Kīhei, 298-0579 This newest restaurant from Nutcharee offers unique stylings of Asian staples. Vietnamese. L, D, $$

NUTCHAREE’S AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 Start with the ‘ahi laab tartare salad or crispy fish and mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D, $-$$

OAO SUSHI BAR & GRILL Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Gateway Pl., Kīhei, 666-8139 One of Maui's newest sushi sensations founded by Chef Bernardo Oao Jr. featuring fresh sushi, juicy steak and delicious cocktails. Pacific Rim. L, D, N, $$$

PAIA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 See North Shore listing.

PEGGY SUE’S 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 214-6786 Bright 1950s style diner with jukebox serving burgers, milkshakes and creative hot dogs. American. L. D. $$

PILINA  Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 Fairmont Kea Lani's reimagined lobby lounge highlights culture and connection with island-inspired lunch, dinner, drinks, and dessert served daily. Hawaiian/Lounge. L, D, $$$

THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 727-2038 Mac ‘n’ cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. Score breakfast during football season, too! American/Bar. L, H, D, N, $-$$

PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with spinach tiropitas with caramelized onions, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough. Finish with baklava ice-cream cake. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $-$$$

Miso Phat Sushi

PIZZA MADNESS 1455 S Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 Classic pizza joint with thick-crust pies, salads and wings in the heart of Kīhei. Open for dine-in, takeaway and happy hour. Pizza. L, D, $$

POINT BREAK PIZZA & PANINI Maui Harbor Shops, 300 Mā'alaea Rd., Mā'alaea, 868-0014 Homemade pizza dough and focaccia bread packs each artisan pizza and paninis full of flavor. Pizza. L, D, $$

THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens, fish plucked from the sea and a gorgeous outdoor setting are among the reasons this venue won ‘Aipono Gold in 2022 for Most Romantic Restaurant. European-inspired. B, D, R, $$-$$$$

ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like chicken mole, pozole verde and langostino enchiladas with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D, $-$$

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880 Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list. American/Steak. H, D, N, R, $$$$

SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068

Adjacent to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, half-pound burgers and fresh veggies. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D (Sat & Sun), $$-$$$

SOUTH SHORE TIKI LOUNGE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444 Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads and vegetarian items round out the menu at this hip bar. American. L, D, N, $

SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Celebrity Chef Wolfgang Puck's Hawaiian outpost is a celebration of fresh local ingredients. Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones then explore our ever-evolving menu. Pacific Rim. D, N, R, $$-$$$$

SUNS OUT BUNS OUT 1 Piikea Ave., Kīhei, 8652867 Fresh, handcrafted bao buns of all different flavors with an island flair. Don't miss the specialty ube bao. Food Truck/Fusion. L, D, $

TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch includes Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner fuses Italian and Japanese with pasta, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese/Italian Fusion. L, D, $-$$$

THREE’S BAR & GRILL  1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Eggs Benedict six ways, including seared ahi, smoked salmon and prime rib. For lunch, Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen. For dinner, truffle-yaki marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/ Southwestern. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$

TIKEHAU LOUNGE Wailea Village, 116 Wailea Ike Dr. #2104, Kīhei, 214-6500 Innovative cocktails and pūpū inspired by Polynesian places and flavors. Pacific Rim. H, D, N, $$

TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $-$$

THE TREEHOUSE HOTEL WAILEA, 555 Kaukahi, St., Wailea, 874-0500 A unique dining experience tucked in the branches of mango and avocado trees. Seven course private chef dinner with wine pairings for up to six people (seated). Private Dining, D, R, $$$$

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 877-3700 Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Treats. $

WAIKIKI BREWING COMPANY The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. B25, Wailea, 8680935 Paddy’s Irish Stout and Waikele Wheat brew temper the heat of the jalapeño queso dip served with a giant pretzel. American. B, L, H, D $$

WOLFGANG'S STEAKHOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. B22, Wailea, 727-2011 An upscale steakhouse by Wolfgang Zwiener serving USDA Prime Black Angus beef steak, complemented by fine wine and fresh seafood. American. D $$$$

CENTRAL

808 OLD TOWN 2051 Main St., Wailuku 242-1111 Soup, paninis, sandwiches and salads in a stylish spot on Main Street. Open for breakfast, and a Wailuku lunchtime favorite. American. L, $$

ACEVEDO'S HAWAICANO CAFE 190 Alamaha St. 7A, Kahului, 385-3752 A family owned business combining Mexican and Hawaiian heritage with California Mexican style fare and plate lunches. Try the Fish Ceviche Bowl with cabbage, onion, cilantro, tomatoes, guacamole and chipotle aioli. Mexican/Mixed Plate. L, D, $-$$

ALIVE & WELL (BROTH CAFE) 340 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4950 Alive & Well’s revamped Broth Cafe is known for its health-conscious wraps, bowls, smoothies, bahn mi and salads. Go for a green burrito with purple sweet potatoes or try taro bahn mi and tan tan ramen for lunch. International, B, L, $-$$

AMIGO'S 333 Dairy Rd. 110B, Kahului, 872-9525

See South Shore listing

ELEVATE YOUR DINING

A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560 Squeeze into a booth and order a Vietnamese burrito, clay pot, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D, $-$$

BA-LE 1824 Oihana St., Wailuku 249-8833 Vietnamese counter-service eatery with bahn mi, pho, plate lunches and fresh baked bread and croissants. Additional locations in Kahului, Kīhei and Lāhainā. Vietnamese. L, D, $$

BALAI PATA 425 Koloa St. #104, Kahului, 727-2230 Discover the vibrant flavors of the Philippines at Chef Joey Macadangdang's innovative new restaurant. Indulge in specialties like crispy duck pata and balai sigang. Filipino. L, D, $-$$

BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650 This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut french fries and burrata caprese. Best pau hana in Kahului! Mediterranean. L, H, D, R, $-$$

BLAZIN STEAKS MAUI Wailuku Town Center, 790 Eha St., Wailuku, 463-5807 Plate lunch style steak with rice and salad on the side. Other offerings include chicken, salmon, spam, and eggs. Mixed Plate. L, D, $-$$

CAFE O’LEI AT THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 5000553 Fun, expanded menu at the restaurant group’s newest venue. The most beautiful mountain view in the Central Valley! Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, R, $-$$$

ESTERS FAIR PROSPECT 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 868-0056 Serving classic cocktails, tiki drinks, spirits, rum, mezcal, wine and beer. Local farm-to-tableinspired small bites. Rosé wine and daiquiris during happy hour. Open 2-10 p.m. Bar. H, N, $

FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., #330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing

FUEGO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 633-4436 Cozy indoor and outdoor seating on the Dunes at Maui Lani Golf Course. Argentinian-style barbeque, pasta, sandwiches, cocktails and wines. Latin-inspired. B, L, D $$-$$$

GIANOTTO'S PIZZA 2050 Main St., Wailuku 2448282 Bodega-style eatery with pizzas and homestyle Italian served with aloha. Pizza. L, D, $

HAVENS Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., 868-0555 Enjoy the same smash burgers and sushi at this gourmet food truck. Plenty kau kau! See also South Shore listing. Food Truck/ American. L, D, $

KALEI'S LUNCHBOX 52 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku, 793-3104 Hawaiian comfort food and plate lunches like the Furikake Mochiko Chicken served with rice and macroni salad. Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $$

KING’S CHINESE BBQ 197 N. Market St. #1717, Wailuku 242-8848 No frills, counter-service joint serving Chinese BBQ and local favorites like saimin and spam musubi. Additional locations in Kīhei and Ha‘ikū. Chinese, Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $$

KRAKEN COFFEE MAUI 520 Keolani Pl., Kahului, 633-7499 and 329 Alamaha St., Kahului 866-9817

Specialty coffees include the Haleakalatte, Kīhei Kicker and Mochawao. Iced drinks are served over coffee ice cubes. Coffee Shop. $

LAS ISLITAS 520 Keolani Pl., Kahului, 359-1631

Island tacos, burritos and quesadillas filled with fresh ingredients Mexican. L, D, $$

LAS PIÑATAS OF MAUI 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707 Try one of the signature kitchen sink burritos stuffed with your meat of choice, guacamole, beans, rice and more. Mexican. B, L, H, D, $-$$

MARCO’S GRILL AND DELI 444 Hāna Hwy, Kahului 877-4466 Family friendly Italian-American diner with homestyle eats like meatball subs, vodka rigatoni and shrimp scampi. Classic breakfast plates available before 12 p.m. Italian, B, L, D, $$-$$$

MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches, wraps, and bagels and lox made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the rest. “Happy Cappy Hour” 2-6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H, $

MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery .com Kyle Kawakami dishes up imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck/Hawaiian/Fusion. L, $

MIKO’S CUISINE 1764 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 8682914 Small off-the-beaten-path eatery with Chinese, Korean and Japanese fares. Asian. L, D, $$

MIYAKO SUSHI 1883 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2440085 Sequestered Okazuya style sushi joint also specializing in antiques and local snacks. Carryout only. Japanese. B, L, $

MOMONA BAKERY AND COFFEE SHOP 7 E Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului, 214-5389 Chic, spacious coffee shop serving fresh pastries, including cakes and Argentinian-style croissants. Come early for best selection. Bakery/Coffee Shop. B, L, $

MY THAI MAUI 230 Hāna Hwy, Kahului 877-8887

Hole-in-the-wall eatery serving authentic Thai plates like tom kha, larb and pad woon sen. Favorites like curry, pad thai and bao are also on offer. Don't miss the mango sticky rice for dessert. Thai, L, D, $$

ONLY ONO BBQ Heritage Hall, Pā‘ia, onlyonobbq. com, 777-9026 Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches, smoked brisket. Location varies (see website for schedule). Food Truck/Chinese/American. L, D, $

THE PARLAY 2086 Main St., Wailuku 214-5161 Enjoy craft cocktails and elevated bar food at this retro-style tavern situated in the heart of Wailuku Town. Try the French Puddin' Toast with banana, caramel and pecan crumble on a flan-soaked croissant. American. L, H, D, $

RAMEN YA Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 W Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 873-9688 Explore over a dozen unique ramen options. Opt for the big bowl ramen to savor a variety of flavors in one dish. Japanese. L, D, $$

SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L, $

SHIKEDA BENTO PATISSERIE 2050 Main St., Wailuku 500-2556 Japanese bento and patisserie shop located in the food court on Main Street in Wailuku. Get there early for a selection of bentos and colorful Japanese pastries like azuki cream puffs, matcha berry rolls and ube coconut shortcake. Japanese, B, L, $-$$

SIXTYTWO MARCKET 62 N Market St., 7932277 Part market, part brunch joint with artfully plated eggs benedict, frittatas and omelettes. Lunch time offerings include soup, sandwiches and salads. Gold medal for Best Business Lunch at the 2023 ‘Aipono Awards. American. B, L, $$

THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai. Food Truck/Thai. L, D, $

TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753

Sheldon Simeon of Bravo’s Top Chef builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with mochiko chicken or garlic shrimp. Try the double-fried-chicken sandwich on a brioche bun. Pacific Rim. L, $

TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311

Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke. Asian. B, L, $

TASTY CRUST 1770 Mill St., Wailuku, 244-0845 A Maui mainstay since 1942 serving breakfast classics and island-style lunch and dinner. Cash or debit only. American, Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $

THE EMPANADA LADY  2119 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 868-4544 Garden-like eatery in the heart of Wailuku serving authentic Puerto Rican fares. Puerto Rican. L, D, $$

TIFFANY’S 1424 Lower Main St., Wailuku 2490052 Revitalized local eatery helmed by celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon. Filipino, Japanese and localstyle fares. Pacific Rim Open for lunch on weekends. Asian, Local. L, D, $$

TOKYO TEI 1063 Lower Main St., Wailuku 2429630 Longstanding Wailuku staple with authentic Japanese fares in a family-friendly atmosphere. Japanese. L, D, $$

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing.

UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 500-1802 and 1440 Lower Main St., Wailuku, 633-2502. If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon and unagi rocks your world, then chef Jayse Sato’s restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations, epic soft-shell crab bao buns. BYOB. Japanese. D, $-$$

WAILUKU COFFEE COMPANY 26 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259 Espresso, salads and sandwiches in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Coffee Shop. B, L, $

UPCOUNTRY

CASANOVA 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 5720220 Upscale Italian with delicious fresh pastas, wood-fired pizzas and polished service. Don't miss the wood-fired homemade foccaccia served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Italian. D, R, $$

ESPRESSO MAFIA 3617 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 286-9422 Options for every coffee lover with light bites on the side. The ube latte is a violet delight! Coffee Shop. $

GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict and baked goods made from scratch are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. Coffee Shop/Cafe. B, L, $-$$

HALI‘IMAILE GENERAL STORE 900 Hali‘imaile Rd., Makawao, 572-2666 Located on the road to Haleakalā, this farm-to-table restaurant blends Hawaiian and Asian cuisine. Don't miss the signature Maui Gold pineapple upside down cake. Pacific Rim. L, D, $$$

KALEI'S LUNCHBOX 55 Pukalani St., Makawao, 793-0151 See Central listing.

KULA LODGE 15200 Haleakalā Hwy., Kula, 8781535 Come for the beautiful views and manicured garden, stay for a farm-to-table brunch and woodfired pizzas. Now under 5 Palms management. American, Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$$

KULAMALU FOOD TRUCK LOT Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani, (next to Upcountry Longs) An eclectic array of fare, including vegetarian, plate lunch, açai bowls, barbecue and more. Food Truck. $-$$

LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones and artisan breads baked fresh daily. Great

coffee. Cash only. French/Bakery. B, L, (Weds-Sun), $ MARLOW 30 Kupaoa St., A104, Pukalani, 8683366 Chef Jeff and Kaili Scheer know good food, and this family-owned restaurant serves wood-fired sourdough pizza, killer meatballs and rustic salads. Great wine menu, too! Italian. D, $-$$

MAUI PIZZA TRUCK 24 Kiopaa St., Makawao, 276-6529 Voted Best Pizza on Maui for its woodfired pizzas topped with island ingredients like Maui pineapple and kalua pork. Pizza. L, D, $$

MAUIWINE 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-6058 Enjoy wine tastings and light fare on the open-air lānai. Immaculate grounds surrounding the winetasting room. Winery. L, $-$$

MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2810 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 868-3518 A mediterranean food truck to satisfy all your shawarma, gyro and falafel cravings. Try the vegetarian stuffed vine grape leaves with homemade Tahini or organic yogurt sauce. Food Truck/Mediterranean. L, D, $$

POLLI’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao 572-7808 A Makawao cornerstone, this local watering hole is famous for its margaritas, Tex-Mex style fares and buzzy vibe. Mexican. L, D, $$

NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream! Japanese. L, D, $$-$$$

OCEAN ORGANIC VODKA  4051 Omaopio Rd., Kula, 877-0009 Relax and enjoy the panoramic view of the island as you sip on signature Ocean Organic Vodka and Kula Rum cocktails. For dinner, try the Uncle's Favorite flatbread or fresh ocean poke nachos. Pacific Rim. L, D, $$

O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula, 856-0141 Learn about gardening and coffee roasting. Enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven and fresh-roasted coffee. Lunch includes chicken and fish entrees, veggies and dessert. American. B, L, R, $$$$

SATORI 3655 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 727-9638 Enjoy healthy sushi handrolls, like the Green Goddess with vegan mac nut pesto, ramen and inventive sushi specials with cozy outdoor seating in heart of Makawao. Food Truck/Japanese. L, D, $$

THE WOODEN CRATE AT LUMERIA MAUI 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877 Fresh, locally caught fish and healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on site is the foundation for many dishes at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$-$$$$

ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Deli fare, lamb burgers with tzatziki and beef or grass-fed venison burgers. Plus, homestyle chili and rice, or kālua pork plate lunch. American. L, D, $

NORTH SHORE

CAFÉ DES AMIS 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323 Savory crêpes served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita (Indian yogurt sauce). Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. L, D, $

CAFE MAMBO 30 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8021

Quaint Australian and European style cafe with allday brunch and cocktail hours. Try the Toast Special with tomato confi on sourdough with whipped goat cheese and balsamic glaze. European. B, BR, L, $$

CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 6617711 See West Side listing.

Outdoor Living

FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Check-in each weekly for new carne and veggie specials. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N, $$

LIMA COCINA + CANTINA  71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 868-0520 Airy restaurant serving artful Peruvian cuisine like saltados and ceviche. Inventive pisco-heavy cocktail list and late-night offerings every Friday and Saturday night. Fridays are always Lima Latin Night with Salsa, Reggaeton and Cumbia. Latin-inspired. L, D, N, $$-$$$

MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Famous for its beautiful beachside setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine, Mama’s evokes old-time island hospitality. 2023 ‘Aipono winner for Most Romantic Setting and more. Hawaiian/ Seafood. L, D, R, $$-$$$$

NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 This sixcourse prix-fixe tasting menu is created with the finest ingredients, like Osetra caviar, foie gras, wild truffles and line-caught local fish. International. D (5 & 8 p.m. seatings), R, $$$$

PAIA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 100 Hāna Hwy. Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare with a side of fries and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D, $-$$

TOBI'S POKE & SHAVE ICE 137 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9745 A north shore go-to for heaping poke bowls and seared ahi plates. Or, cool down with a colorful shave ice with up to three flavors. Add vanilla soft serve or pinapple dol whip and top with specialty toppings like gummy bears. Local. L, $-$$

Sea House Restaurant

A true beachfront dining experience, Sea House Restaurant at Napili Kai Beach Resort offers a variety of fresh and sustainably sourced island-style fare. Guests can enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner seaside with perfect views and curated ambience.

VANA PAIA 93 Hāna Hwy. #3, Pā‘ia, 579-6002 Start with a spicy liliko‘i mezcalita cocktail, then work your way down the menu and try the hamachi carpaccio, tekka maki, nigiri sushi, rainbow roll or blackened tofu served with shishito's and a fried egg. Asian Fusion. H, D, $-$$

WAIKOMO SHAVE ICE 43 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 651-5169 Earth-friendly, delicious shave ice served in a souvenir coconut bowl all topped with fresh fruit, coconut cream and local honey. Add vanilla or vanilla mac nut ice cream for extra sweetness. Treats. $

HĀNA

DA FISH SHACK 5260 Hāna Hwy., Hāna 269-3922

Your favorite island fish dish is on the menu at Da Fish Shack, from fresh fish tacos to poke and coconut shrimp. Not in the mood for fish? Go for a Paniolo burger with black angus beef. Seafood. D, $

THE RESTAURANT Hāna-Maui Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Hāna-sourced fish and local produce are the basis of this original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juice. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$-$$$$

A collection of flavors that honor the Hawaiian islands and the Pacific Ocean.

Serving breakfast and dinner, experience exceptional service at a breathtaking ocean-view restaurant.

Dine and support local farmers and fishermen through food, connection, and culinary appreciation.

Serving breakfast and dinner, experience exceptional service at a breathtaking ocean-view restaurant. Dine and support local farmers and fishermen through food, connection, and culinary appreciation. (808) 662-6681 caneandcanoe.com

Sea House Restaurant

Uncles’

MESSAGE

Former surfing pro launches lifestyle brand celebrating the second half of life

by Mona de Crinis

approaching the halfcentury mark, and he wants to help his fellow midlifers stay active in island style.

GROWING UP ON MAUI, where a surfboard is more appendage than equipment, Micah Nickens took to the water like most North Shore boys did, chasing swells from Honolua Bay to Pe‘ahi – the monster surf spot known as Jaws.

Gifted the surfing gene by both parents, Nickens felt the ocean coursing through his veins and his future on the crest of a wave.

Reputed more for aerials and acrobatics than big-wave mastery, he carved his way to professional status, even serving as occasional coach for world champion surfer and Olympic Gold Medalist Carissa Moore.

Now edging toward 50, Nickens is encouraging mid-lifers and late bloomers to stay active with his island-based lifestyle brand, Uncles Movement, through his expanding line of sports and athletic wear.

The former pro athlete began adding #unclesmovement whenever he posted an epic barrel or other rad surf move in playful acknowledgement that he’s aged out of the very demographic he spent a career pursuing.

“It was initially meant as a joke,” he said. “I had moved into Uncle territory.”

In island culture, “Uncle” and “Auntie” are

respectful terms of affection reserved for those more kūpuna than keiki. For Maui-born Nickens, it’s an earned distinction that signals a standard of engaged maturity in which aging is not the same as getting old.

The Uncles Movement hashtag stuck. Nickens’ surf/skate/board buddies – also not the kids they used to be – began using #unclesmovement to identify their own heroic midlife feats. There’s something to this, he remembers thinking. That inner fire that lit us up as kids, we need to keep it aflame as we get older, stoke those embers rather than settle for the ashes.

Calling it a “common sense reminder,” the sportswear entrepreneur readily admits his pep talk – hike that unfamiliar trail, take those two left feet to hula lessons, rip the tags off that new Aloha shirt saved for special occasions – is not groundbreaking or new but rather a light-hearted, middle-life reminder to “never stop, never give up.”

Nickens certainly didn’t. After #unclesmovement caught social fire, burning through his extended surfing ‘ohana, he designed stickers with the UM logo and mailed them out to friends, associates, friends of friends – any

Surfing expert and coach Micah Nickens is

Movement

influential peers he knew involved in an active lifestyle – to track the brand’s reach.

Someone in San Diego texted Nickens a photo of a bumper bearing the UM sticker, followed by pics of folks schussing the Swiss Alps with stickers on their skis. People were tagging surfboards, snowboards, skateboards – any board, gear, vehicle or sticker-worthy surface echoing Uncles Movement’s energizing mid-life message.

“It was game on,” he said, recalling those first few morsels of validation that nourished his dream. Sourcing industry connections built over decades, Nickens selected quality materials and ordered a modest run of T-shirts and caps emblazoned with the UM logo. When he sold out of his initial run of t-shirts, Nickens doubled down, adding long sleeves, technical activewear and shorts to the brand.

While he has ambitious goals, such as producing a women’s line called Auntie’s Mission, hosting wellness retreats and promoting supplements under the UM banner, Nickens is mindful of the financial burden of building a brand.

“I’m not making hasty decisions and putting

my family in debt,” he said. Instead, Nickens is methodically expanding his product line, slowly adding to it every three to four months.

As the brand has evolved, so has its creator. Decked out from top to bottom in form-fitting athletic wear brandishing the UM logo (save for shoes, socks and unmentionables), his frame taut and lean, Nickens says presenting daily as an embodiment of the UM credo has been transformative.

He’s developed a healthier relationship with food and drink and stepped up his fitness training, shedding pounds and gaining muscle. His tennis game is stronger than ever, and he’s inching closer to emulating his role model – Makenna, his daughter – in word, thought and deed as he strives to be a better version of himself.

“She’s my example of how to be a good human. I want to be more like her,” Nickens said of the 15-year-old he shares with his wife, Melissa, who has taught him to let go of ego, tame insecurities and always lead with aloha.

Encouraging lifelong personal growth with an outstretched hand, Nickens is already changing lives on island and around the

world, like the Aussie pal who relapsed after 10 years of sobriety and found the strength to begin anew through Uncles Movement’s magnanimous message of hope.

“He was so disappointed in himself and his decisions,” said Nickens, who reiterated UM’s core principles of redemption and renewal to help his friend. A few months later, he contacted Nickens to tell him that “he had forgiven himself, was starting over and doing well.”

“It’s been a wild ride so far,” said Nickens, recounting the journey from youth-obsessed corporate player to second-act advocate championing center stage over shutting down and blaming the director. Although we’re the writers and stars of our own plays, it doesn’t have to be a solo performance, he suggests. We all land on those frayed pages eventually, the trick is to flip the script.

Once merely whispered encouragement among aging friends, Uncles Movement’s “stay active” affirmation is quickly becoming a fullthroated “cheehoo!” as second-half athletes, adventurers and average Joes ascribe to its uplifting message, wearing the UM logo like the badge of honor it is.

LOʻILOA offersparticipantsataste ofHawaiianhistory

photographsstorybyMikeMorrisbyRyanSiphers

The noise of power tools and the dust of stone and wood fill the air at Lo‘iloa, a nonprofit that teaches its students to make papa ku‘i ‘ai (poi pounding boards) and pōhaku ku‘i ‘ai (poi pounding stones). The activity builds pride in the students’ Hawaiian identity.

THE OPEN-AIR WORKSHOP in Kawewehi

Pundyke’s upcountry backyard buzzes with the sound of power tools each month.

On this sunny Saturday morning in April, couples and individuals were sanding and smoothing pōhaku ku ʻi ʻai (poi pounding stones) at four workstations. The previous month, they were in the same space transforming slabs of wood, including monkeypod and mango, into papa kuʻi ʻai (poi pounding boards).

After a quick lunch break, it was time to put their creations to use.

Pundyke’s daughter, Makana, described the techniques of pounding kalo (taro) with the stone on the board, while her husband, Kupono, demonstrated. The group then gave it a try using steamed kalo harvested from the yard.

“When we ku ʻ i we want to have good energy – you’re putting that into the food,” she told the group. “We always want to have good intentions with what we’re making and sharing.”

Loʻiloa is a nonprofit organization that hosts monthly hands-on workshops for

people to make pounding boards and stones as a way to connect with native Hawaiian culture and prepare food traditionally at home. Participants are typically couples or families. A majority are Hawaiian and live on Maui.

Following a workshop last summer at Pundyke’s Kula property, five families pounded kalo as well as ʻulu (breadfruit) before eating desserts they called “Hawaiian sundaes.”

While the sundaes included haupia ice cream covered with toppings such as macadamia nuts and lilikoi butter, what made them “Hawaiian” was the secret ingredient: poi, a traditional food made by pounding kalo and adding water until it becomes a paste.

And what made the sundaes even more “Hawaiian” is that the families ate poi they had just made with their own hands.

“It’s empowering. It makes them feel more rooted,” said Pundyke, project director and founder of Lo ʻ iloa. “There’s this pride of being Hawaiian and, ‘I know how to do this.’ Just taking away some of that stigma – that you’re not good enough if you don’t know how to kuʻi.”

Kamaile Pahukoa said her grandfather had a board in need of some repairs, so she decided to make a new one for her family.

“I know once it goes back home, it will be used by everyone,” the 27-year-old Keʻanae resident said.

Her prediction was correct: Eight months after attending her workshops last summer, Pahukoa said they’re used at least monthly.

“I’m so grateful to have my own papa and pōhaku,” she said. “My church also just recently had a kuʻi kalo workshop so it was used by a few people that day as well, and we will hopefully have more workshops in the future where it will be used again. I actually made paʻiʻai yesterday – just enough for me and my tūtū to enjoy.”

Lo ʻ iloa began as a grassroots group in 2006 and became a nonprofit in 2010. Initially, the organization worked primarily in Iao Valley with first-time offenders as part of the Maui Police Department’s Positive Outreach Interventions, otherwise known as the POI Program.

While the goal back then was to build pride

Mike Morris

and self-esteem through hands-on activities based in Hawaiian cultural practices, the same remains true for the workshops held in Kula.

“There’s a sense of accomplishment putting the board and stone to use,” said Ohai Daniels, one of three Loʻiloa board members.

Pundyke, 58, recalled a story from a few years ago when his elderly neighbor heard him pounding poi in his garage.

“Just seeing and hearing it made her think about when she was a little girl on Molokaʻi,” he said.

Of course, Pundyke brought her some poi, which he said she was grateful for – but even more so, she was happy he was keeping the tradition alive.

Since ancient times, kalo has been an essential part of the Hawaiian diet.

Pundyke, a former police officer and game warden, said he wants to inspire Hawaiians to grow kalo and have a relationship with the sacred crop.

“We want to rekindle that love. It’s something we hope to spark,” he said. “I want people

to realize they don’t need 10 acres – they can grow it on their porch, on their balcony. If you take care of it, it will take care of you.”

Pundyke knows first-hand the power of nutrition and the importance of what people eat. During the pandemic, he watched the documentary “Fat, Sick and Nearly Dead” and decided to try a 60-day green juice cleanse.

After regularly drinking juice from green apple, celery, ginger, cucumber and kale, he kept losing weight and eventually shed about 100 pounds. “It must have, like, reset me,” he said.

Although he hasn’t tried juicing kalo, Pundyke said he likes to use it in homemade stews – and, of course, “Hawaiian sundaes” for dessert.

For more information about Lo‘iloa or to volunteer or donate, visit loiloa.org. To be added to the group’s workshop waitlist, contact Lo‘iloa via Instagram (@loiloa.iaovalley), Facebook (Lo‘iloa Iao Valley) or email at LoiloaIaoValley@gmail.com.

Since ancient times, kalo has been an essential part of the Hawaiian diet. Ke‘anae resident Kamaile

‘ai and pōhaku ku‘i ‘ai regularly to pound kalo for her family and community.

Pahukoa (left) uses her papa ku‘i

Mike Morris

Escaping Sea Foam

photograph by DREW SULOCK

CANON 6D, 1/4000 SECOND, F3.2 ISO 200, 70-200 MM L SERIES LENS, 200 MM

WHEN MAUI photographer Drew Sulock is in the field, he seeks out specific lighting, interesting animal behavior and unique perspectives in creating his “artistic nature photography.” All this typically involves long hours under sometimes difficult conditions. When he tried capturing a pallid ghost crab, Ocypode pallidula , an Indo-Pacific species that is about one-inch wide, Sulock had already had a long day at Big Beach in Mākena State Beach Park.

A large south swell created a steep berm that prevented most white water from reaching the Big Beach’s level beach. A ghost crab emerged from its hole as sunset approached, scurrying out of the way before waves doused it with salty foam. With a fast shutter speed, Sulock captured the detail of the sea foam cresting over the berm – the ghost crab’s last dry moment of the evening.

“A Hui Hou” is the editors’ pick of reader-submitted images from across the island. Send your Best of Maui photo submissions to photos@mauimagazine.com.

Clifford Naeʻole

Hawaiian Cultural Advisor

The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua

by CHRIS AMUNDSON

“ I GREW UP in the taro patches of Waiheʻe with my grandfather for five hours a day. And as a small kid, it was fun. It was entertaining. And it came to a point where I was graduating from high school [1970] and I says to him, “I want to leave taro patches and go see the world.” And his answer to me was a very, very negative answer, because he wanted to give the land to me. He wanted to give everything to me, and I declined it.

“Aloha from a visitor means the same thing as aloha from a Hawaiian."

I said, “I’m gonna set my sight on broader visions and go to the mainland and make myself famous and have fun.”

Eventually he did sell the land, and I remember seeing his boots and cobwebs on the sickle. I says to him, I says, “Grandpa, I thought you’d never, never get rid of this land.” And he said, “Because you did not fulfill your destiny.”

So, it hurt me. At 35 years of age on the mainland is where I found my Hawaiian-ness – my heritage, as well as my blood.

I found out that Naeʻole was the chief who was entrusted to care for Kamehameha, who was foretold to be the slayer of chiefs – to be the man to unify the Hawaiian kingdoms. The chiefs wanted him destroyed.

Kamehameha’s mother trusted him to Naeʻole to run for the hills and flee from the persecuting enemies and be raised until he was old enough to become a warrior to take his place in history and become the unifier of kingdoms.

From that point on, I came back to Maui. I got back into taro patches. I began to return to the land. I began to understand more and more. When I came back to Maui, I committed my firstborn to the Hawaiian language. The language opened barriers. It helped my mind be free.

And then The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua came calling. They hired me as a PBX operator two weeks before the resort opened [1991] – room reservations, phones. And as time went on, I started introducing more Hawaiian things, and my voice got heard. I graduated to the position of cultural advisor, and now I have a hand in everything that is of anything to do with Hawaiian-ness – from the website, to the decor, to the language, to the menus, to the everything.

Next year’s Celebration of the Arts [April 18-19, 2025] theme at The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua will be “In the eyes of the beholder, from the eyes of the beholder.” For me, aloha from a visitor means the same thing as aloha from a Hawaiian. To me, it makes no difference – it comes as equal status.

Aloha can go a long way. It is taken beyond the shores of our islands to the shores of visitor’s cities, states and countries. Hopefully the good will permeate their being, and they may pass it on, too. It expands and expands.

When I was a boy, my grandfather came to me being the hiapo – firstborn of the firstborn. And with that comes responsibility. And he judged that I had no idea on kuleana – I had no idea of responsibility. So, to all the generations that are coming, know your responsibility, know your kuleana.

Sometimes your kuleana finds you. You have no choice: you better take care of it.

Kuleana is about being responsible, and it’s about being right and wrong at the same time. I say to always look inside yourself and always keeping an eye out. If something needs to be corrected, make sure that it is corrected in the way that is always workable to both parties.

You’re not always going to be correct, but you always got to listen. Kuleana is being aware of everything around you: everything and everyone around and try to be responsible and make the right decisions. And if there are decisions that one cannot be made, you think about it. Eventually the answer will come. That’s kuleana – being able to be responsible for what is wrong as well as what is right and admitting that I was wrong.”

Jason Moore