We celebrate the people & places that make our island home nō ka ‘oi
Sink Your Toes into 9 of Maui’s Best Beaches
ISLAND KITCHEN Chef Ryan Cruz’s Culinary Creations from Hotel Wailea +
22
LĀHAINĀ BANYAN TREE
Contributor Craig Hewitt shares his precious memory of the Lāhainā Banyan Tree. Learn how you can be published.
24 MAUI’S BEST BEACHES
Maui is known for its incredible beaches, from sugary shores to black sands and prized snorkeling spots to surf-ready waves.
2025 SHAKA LIST
With the new year upon us, we celebrate the people, places and things that make Maui “nō ka ʻoi” (the best).
Todd Kawasaki
Daniel Sullivan
SAVOR THE ISLAND, ONE CULINARY TREASURE AT A TIME
Indulge in a gourmet three-course meal crafted by the chefs at The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua. Enjoy the UH Maui Culinary Arts Reception with five pūpū stations, wine, cocktails and beer. Celebrate the winners of 40+ awards, including the prestigious Chef of the Year and honors in sustainability and agriculture. Support Maui’s future culinary stars–proceeds benefit the UH Maui Culinary Arts Program.
contents departments
POSTMASTER:
ON THE COVER Soft, salty waves reach Kāʻanapali Beach at sunset, one of Maui’s stunning and serene beaches along its 120-mile coastline. Story begins on page 24.
by Andrew
14 EDITOR’S LETTER
Stories and lessons from life on Maui by Publisher and Editor Chris Amundson.
16 TALK STORY
Tales of the island fresh off the coconut wireless.
44
ISLAND KITCHEN
Chef Ryan Cruz crafts innovative dishes at The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea.
48 DINING GUIDE
Everything you need to know about dining on Maui, from casual bites to luxury experiences.
58 A HUI HOU
Photo contest winner Jenni Matthews captures Kalama Park in Kīhei at dusk.
60 IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Meet Kainoa Pestana, the conservation manager at Puʻu Kukui Watershed.
Photo
Shoemaker
Chris Amundson
VOL. 29, NO. 1 | 2025
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is an internationally-distributed magazine dedicated to exploring the life and culture of Maui Nui. There’s a saying known in the islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Chris Amundson
Angela Amundson
Lauren Warring
Victoria Finlayson
Jennifer Stevens, Mark Del Rosario
Ariella Nardizzi
Erik Makić Pōmaika‘i Krueger
Chris Amundson
Liesl Amundson, Shiela Camay, Anne Canto
Mona de Crinis, Serene Gunnison, Craig Hewitt, Todd Kawaski, Jenni Matthews, Travis Morrin, Ron Niebrugge, Rachel Olsson, Andrew Shoemaker, Daniel Sullivan, Drew Sulock, Todd A. Vines
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What Makes Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi?
THERE’S A BELOVED SAYING in
the Hawaiian Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi. These words are more than a prideful sentiment that Maui is the best – they reflect the deep care and reverence we have for this sacred land. It’s in the way the ocean gently kisses the shores of our 120-mile coastline and in the resilient spirit of our community as we rally to uplift our ‘ohana who lost their homes, businesses and loved ones in the Lāhainā fires.
In this issue, we’re proud to share the “2025 Shaka List” – a collection of just a few of the few da kine that make this island nō ka ‘oi Maui, like this magazine, is a story of resilience, beauty and community, showing unshaken grace through adversity.
This year also brought an exciting new neighbor to our skies: the ‘alalā, the native Hawaiian crow. A pilot program reintroduced this intelligent bird to the leeward slopes of Haleakalā in December. After more than two decades of absence in the wild, conservationists find hope in these sleek black birds as they take flight, playing a role in healing the island’s ecosystem. Healing comes in many forms, and at the Royal Lahaina Resort in Kā‘anapali, it takes the shape of music. The resort hosts nightly musical gatherings featuring local artists under the sprawling branches of a century-old rubber tree – a nod to its cousin, the Lāhainā banyan tree.
The spirit of community in West Maui remains unshaken, and The Branches is just one example of what happens when people come together not just to rebuild, but to grow something beautiful from the ashes.
Just five miles south stands the mighty banyan tree in Lāhainā town. The largest banyan in the country was engulfed in flames during the 2023 fire. Now, it shows signs of growth and restoration. In a touching personal essay, contributor Craig Hewitt reflects on a resilient future: “Only God can make a banyan tree,” he writes, “but sometimes he calls on us to nurture it.”
No issue about Maui would be complete without honoring the island’s unparalleled beauty, including its 60 named beaches and countless hidden stretches of sand. From Sugar Beach in Kīhei to Nāpili Beach in Kapalua, our annual “Best Beaches” feature highlights everything from world-famous sunbathing spots to secluded local fish haunts.
And in the spirit of celebration, we’re also thrilled to share our curated Dining Guide featuring some of the island’s best establishments. From shave ice stands to mom-andpop diners and sushi bars, many are past ‘Aipono Award winners.
As we gear up for this year’s ‘Aipono Awards Gala at The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua Ballroom, we can’t wait to peruse your nominations. On April 26, we’ll be celebrating the very best of Maui’s dining scene – and we hope to see you there!
A hui hou – see you soon.
With
Aloha, Chris Amundson Publisher & Editor chris@mauimagazine.net
of the Return
‘Alalā
Five surviving native Hawaiian crows released on Maui
by Ariella Nardizzi
San Diego Zoo Wildlife Alliance
Kīpahulu Forest Reserve is now home to five ʻalalā in hopes to restore the species.
Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project
NO ROADS OR TRAILS lead into the boggy rainforests of the Kīpahulu Forest Reserve on the leeward slopes of Haleakalā. Yet, it is here that five ʻalalā – the native Hawaiian crows that went extinct in the wild in 2002 – now reside. Three male and two female juvenile birds were released on Dec. 4 in a historic conservation effort to restore the species to its natural habitat.
These jet-black corvids once graced Hawaiʻi Island’s skies, revered as ‘aumākua (family guardians). They are distinctive for their sleek black feathers, one-foot-long wingspans, and haunting, human-like cries. Fossilized remains of a similar species have also been found on East Maui. By 1976, habitat loss, disease and overpredation brought their population to just 76. The last wild pair was spotted in South Kona, Hawaiʻi Island, in 2002 – the year the ʻalalā were declared extinct in the wild.
Since then, the San Diego Zoo Wildlife Alliance has bred over 115 ʻalalā in captivity. In 2016, conservationists reintroduced 29 of these birds to Hawaiʻi Island. However, continued habitat loss, avian diseases carried by introduced mosquitoes, and predation by feral cats, mongooses and ʻio (Hawaiian hawks) caused high mortality rates. By 2020, the remaining birds were returned to captivity at the Keauhou and Maui Bird Conservation Centers.
“ʻAlalā have been in captivity for way too long. We can’t keep bringing birds into captivity without an exit plan,” said Dr. Hanna Mounce, manager of the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project (MFBRP). “We need to get these birds back onto the landscape where they belong.”
In fall 2024, hope was renewed. Five captive-bred ʻalalā were transported by helicopter to a temporary field aviary on Haleakalā in early October. Before their release, members of Nā Hanona Kūlike ʻO Piʻilani offered a pule (prayer) to honor the birds.
“The manu [birds] don’t have voices to speak for themselves,” Kumu Kaponoʻai Molitau said. “The intentionality of our work was to uplift their voices in this ancestral landscape. It’s a huge kuleana [responsibility] to ensure our decisions benefit not only the natural environment but also those without voices, like our manu people.”
Young birds were selected for the release because they are less territorial than adults, increasing the likelihood of successful pair bonding, foraging and group cohesion. After adapting for three to four weeks under close supervision, the birds were released into Maui’s refuge.
Kīpahulu Forest Reserve was chosen for its isolation and abundance of native vegetation – lessons learned from the 2016 Hawaiʻi Island initiative. Each bird is outfitted with a GPS transmitter attached to a cloth harness worn like a backpack, allowing conservationists to track their movements.
The ʻalalā play a vital role in forest health by dispersing seeds of over 30 native plant species, effectively acting as “forest restoration engineers.” “We don’t have other native species operating like
larger fruit-eating birds,” Mounce said. “The ʻalalā will make a big difference for the health of Hawaiian forests.”
This Maui release is considered experimental, as the island lacks ʻio (Hawaiian hawk) predators, making it a safer environment for the ʻalalā. Partners including the DLNR Division of Forestry and Wildlife, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and The Nature Conservancy are collaborating on breeding and rehabilitation efforts.
“There are still big questions about whether Maui has enough habitat to support wild corvids,” Mounce said. “This project will help determine how Maui fits into the broader recovery of the ʻalalā.”
If the birds successfully reproduce, their offspring may eventually move to the Big Island. Mounce believes that a population reintroduced to the wild – especially one raised in part by wild-born birds – will develop better strategies for evading predators like the ʻio.
If effective, the once-silenced calls of the ʻalalā will echo through Hawaiʻi’s forests again, a testament to the resilience and restoration of the islands.
Members of the Nā Hanona Kūlike ʻO Piʻilani offered a pule, a prayer, to honor the ʻalalā before they were released on the slopes of Haleakalā.
Hawai‘i DLNR
Cool Cat Cafe Opens in Kīhei
FOR TWO DECADES, Cool Cat Cafe was an iconic Lāhainā Front Street restaurant. The old-time, 1950s diner at the Wharf Cinema Center was known for its award-winning hamburgers and elevated view of Lāhainā’s famous banyan tree.
What’s ‘Old’ is New Again for the Former Front Street Eatery
by TODD A. VINES
The wildfires of August 2023 claimed the restaurant and changed the face of Front Street forever, but a new chapter in the Cool Cat Cafe story is being written in Kīhei. Founder Sean Corpuel reopened the cafe in South Maui this past June, barely 10 months after the fires.
“I kept in close contact with the team from the day after the fire,” Corpuel said. “I let them determine the pace. Within a few months, they told me they were ready to build something back. From that point, I wanted to reopen as quickly as possible.”
The new restaurant at Kukui Mall, most recently occupied by Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, has been fully updated and is appropriately awash in red and chrome – and nostalgia. Parking is considerably easier at the new locale. There’s more
seating, a larger game room and space for private parties.
It’s also, well, notably cooler. The space is fully air-conditioned – a shift from the mostly open-air westside spot. Toward the rear of the restaurant, a large unadorned interior wall awaits a mural, likely a tribute to the cafe’s westside roots.
“It’ll be a nice vibe, a nod to our past,” said Tiffany Quilty, the restaurant group’s operations manager. “It’s a lot of pressure to reopen in a new space and keep the bar as high as we can. Even though we were established on Maui, we’re the new kid in Kīhei. But there’s lots of opportunity to connect with a new community.”
Cool Cat Cafe first opened on Maui in 2003. Corpuel and his father, Steve, owned a pair of successful ’50s-style diners in California and longed to bring the concept to the islands. At no point did Sean consider the loss of the Lāhainā restaurant the final chapter.
“We built something amazing. I couldn’t let it end like that,” he said.
Chris Amundson
In Kīhei, those familiar with the prior location will recognize plenty: photos of ’50s-era icons on the walls, bar seating at the shake counter and live music by West Maui musicians.
Many of the faces are familiar, too. Nearly half of the roughly 100-person team previously worked at the westside Cool Cat Cafe or Captain Jack’s Island Grill, a sister restaurant and Wharf Cinema Center neighbor also lost in the fires. A new Captain Jack’s recently opened at Sands of Kahana Resort with breakfast, lunch and dinner menus.
“We can replace equipment, buildings and product, but you can’t replace 21 years of culture and experience,” Corpuel said. “You can’t replace your ʻohana.”
The menu remains largely unchanged, with a few additions like a Philly cheesesteak, baja fish tacos and fish and chips, popular dishes formerly served at Captain Jack’s. The lineup of hand-pressed, 6.5-ounce Angus beef burgers is back, offered in more than a dozen ways, including favorites like the Don Ho with pineapple,
Cool Cat Cafe reopened in Kīhei with the same ’50s diner nostalgia, cuisine and culture of the Front Street eatery –voted “Best Burger” by locals and guests for its hand-pressed, 6.5-ounce Angus beef burgers crafted 14 different ways.
bacon, jack cheese and homemade sweet Hawaiian sauce, and The Duke with bacon, cheese, onion rings and barbecue sauce.
The accolades are back, too. Cool Cat Cafe once again took gold as “Best Burger” in the 2023 ʻAipono Awards, Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine’s annual readers’ choice competition. It’s an honor the restaurant has earned multiple times through the years.
“It makes all the hard work worth it,” Corpuel said. “My dad’s favorite thing to hear is, ‘That’s the best burger I’ve ever had.’ Being voted Best Burger by the readers is a hundred times better.”
In addition to the return of Captain Jack’s Island Grill, there’s talk about reintroducing Cool Cat on the west side. A “Cool Cat Express” is in the works, though the timeline and exact location remain undetermined.
“We’re so grateful to have had the opportunity to get both Cool Cat and Captain Jack’s up and running again,” Corpuel said. “We love serving great food, and we’re stoked to be able to put our work ʻohana back together. We’re just happy to be here.”
Sean Corpuel opened Cool Cat Cafe in 2003, bringing a ’50s-style diner to Front Street and now Kīhei.
Rachel Olsson (all)
Rooted in Community
The Branches honors Hawaiian mele traditions
by Ariella Nardizzi
AS THE GLOWING SUN dips into the ocean in Kāʻanapali, hanging basket lights illuminate the canopy of the centuryold rubber tree at the heart of Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows. The Ficus elastica, known as “The Branches,” stretches its limbs wide, its tangled gnarled roots growing 64 feet upward to support a 124-foot-wide ceiling of sweeping branches and leaves.
Sheltered beneath the towering tree each night, locals and guests gather for mele (song) to keep beloved Lāhainā traditions alive. The salty night air fills with melodic tunes, an angelic voice accompanying the strum of an acoustic guitar. Guests hum, sway and sing together, their voices becoming one under the canopy.
One of Maui’s first resorts, Royal Lahaina launched The Branches on Nov. 1, 2024, in recognition of the more than 100 restaurants lost in the devastating Lāhainā wildfire. This nightly gathering features live music from local artists, decadent meat and cheese charcuterie platters, s’mores grazing boards and libations.
The evening’s musical celebrations are rooted beneath the rubber tree – a cousin of the resilient Lāhainā Banyan. In the quiet moments between songs, the gentle rustling of leaves fills the air, whispering stories, songs and the enduring spirit of Lāhainā deeply rooted in West Maui.
“As the community rebuilds from a devastating loss, we want to provide a space where local artisans can be celebrated and supported,” said Nicholas Kuhns, general manager of Royal Lahaina.
Amidst chaise loungers and the Roots & Barrel bar trailer, the sturdy ʻOhana Benches – crafted from monkeypod wood – stand as a tribute to resilience. Made by resort employees in honor of the one-year anniversary of the fires, the benches commemorate the 600 displaced ʻohana who sought refuge at the resort.
Royal Lahaina reopened in August after a
10-month public closure to provide housing for families who lost their homes in the fire.
Each night from 6 to 9 p.m., various local artists perform at the heart of the resort’s 27-acre waterfront property. The event debuted with a mesmerizing performance by beloved Hawaiian rockstar Tavana, who brought soulful island-inspired rock and blues to The Branches.
“One of the ways of perpetuating our culture is through our mele,” said Makalapua Kanuha, cultural advisor for Royal Lahaina. “When we celebrate music, we celebrate the language of our kūpuna [elders] and the moʻolelo [stories] of our ancestors.”
The musical gathering is free to the community, and every third Friday of the month features a popular artist. Attendance ranges from a few dozen to 200 guests, all coming together to revel in the music and support young talent.
As the island rebuilds, The Branches honors the past while planting new seeds of growth, healing and restoration for the future. Much like the Ficus elastica, whose sprawling branches and steadfast roots have grown for a century, Lāhainā too remains rooted in community as mele tradition continues to thrive.
Chris Amundson
Every night, locals and guests gather for mele at Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows.
only god can make a
BANYAN TREE
SEPTEMBER 11, 2018. I remember that day like it was yesterday. My wife and I combed the streets of Lāhainā on a beautiful late summer day. The steady, rhythmic ebb and flow of the waves could be heard through the din of happy tourists as they scurried from shop to shop. A calm ocean breeze gently kissed my skin. The sweet saline air drifted past my nostrils. I closed my eyes, took a deep breath, and let it fill my lungs. At that moment, I realized why so many people have come to love Maui. Ironically, we were not even supposed to be there. My wife, six months pregnant, originally wanted to go to Portugal for our “baby moon,” that ceremonial last gasp before the sobering reality of parenthood truly sunk in. However, her doctor urged
story by Craig Hewitt | photograph by Todd Kawasaki
her to reconsider. She felt that if there were any complications, it would be more prudent to remain on U.S. soil. She reassured us that there were plenty of beautiful places to visit in America, and that it was better to be safe than sorry. Neither of us had been to Hawai‘i and we had the points to fly for free, but as adventurous globe trotters we succumbed to the misconception that Hawai‘i was “too touristy” and “too commercialized.” Fortunately, we could not have been more wrong. For Maui exceeded our expectations.
Like most women at this stage of their pregnancy, my wife shimmered, and Maui, with all its vibrance and verdant glory, made her even more beautiful. We continued our leisurely stroll through Lāhainā, and then
Before the 2023 fires, the Lāhainā Banyan Tree stretched across a city block. Though partially burned, the tree grows anew, a sign of restoration of Maui and its people.
we saw it: the great banyan tree. Of course, I read about the tree’s origins, and as a history buff, I was absolutely fascinated by the story of this 150-year-old, living time capsule. A gift from Indian missionaries to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the first Protestant mission to Maui, William Owen Smith, then local sheriff of Lāhainā, planted the tree as a mere sapling on April 24, 1873. The tree is literally rooted in Hawaiian lore and stands as the largest banyan tree in the United States.
I was awestruck by this sprawling giant the moment I saw it. Covering an acre and standing over 60 feet high, it reminded me of something out of a fantasy novel, as if this iconic creature had sprouted out of the imagination of J.R.R. Tolkien. It seemed so alien yet so welcoming. Like a benevolent kraken, its writhing tentacles reached for the heavens and hugged the earth below, a conduit to both worlds.
As I walked beneath its boughs, I marveled at the symphony of shadow and sunlight the great tree’s canopy created. Here, light and dark stood not in opposition; they were joined in a scintillating dance. The chitter and chatter of birds echoed among the leaves. Moss hung from the branches like the beards of old wisemen, who silently whispered nature’s grand design to those humbly seated on the benches below. What lessons would we learn if only we had the courage to open our hearts and listen?
After lingering for an hour or so, my wife and I finally left Banyan Tree Park, but the memory never subsided. I met a local artist on our way out and purchased a tiki sculpture he had carved from monkey pod wood. He explained the symbolism of the tiny totem I held in my hand, how its large almond-shaped eyes represented windows into the afterlife. He told me they were called kiʻi in Hawaiian culture, and that they represented our connection with nature and with heaven and earth. The kiʻi would bring us good fortune and wisdom he con-
tinued, so I asked him if he would carve the date on the back since my wife and I would soon be welcoming our newborn son. He smiled graciously and quickly chiseled on the back of the sculpture the words, “Baby Moon Sept 11, 18.” I thanked him, he congratulated us, and then we parted ways.
I began to see my little kiʻi in an entirely new light when tragedy struck Maui in August 2023. Our hearts sunk when we learned how wildfires ravaged the island, particularly in Lāhainā. The loss of human life and property was devastating enough, but Maui’s natural wonders fell victim, too. Not even the mighty banyan tree was spared. Feeling obligated, my wife and I donated to the recovery efforts, and our hearts ached for those whose lives were irreparably changed. Would the banyan tree survive? Would Maui ever be the same?
I began to follow the slow but steady progress and dreamed about one day returning to that magnificent island, this time with my son. They say time heals all wounds but how long would the scars remain? Fortunately, I found cause for optimism. Thanks to the dedication of arborists and volunteers, Maui, and the great banyan tree, were rising from the ashes like a real-life phoenix. It reminded me of the words of Walt Whitman who once wrote, “The smallest sprout shows there is really no death, and if ever there was it led forward life, and does not wait at the end to arrest it, and ceas’d the moment life appear’d.”
Nature, and by extension, humanity, is far more resilient than we ever give it credit. We tend to think that fragility and perseverance lie on different ends of the spectrum, but often the most delicate blossom thrives in the face of adversity.
I no longer doubt Maui will return stronger and more beautiful than ever. I know because nature will always find its way, and so will the people that remain true to it. Only God can make a banyan tree, but sometimes he calls on us to nurture it.
SEND YOUR short stories about Maui to editor@mauimagazine.net.
Daniel Sullivan
Ho’okipa Beach Park
Explore nine of the island’s best beaches
by Serene Gunnison
EXACTLY A QUARTER of Maui’s 120-mile coastline is occupied by beaches. With over 60 named beaches – and countless other hidden coves and patches of sand – Maui offers a staggering range of choices. From sugary, cabanalined shores to rural, rugged fishing haunts, the island’s variety is unmatched.
But with so many options, choosing where and how to spend your time can be a challenge. Do you head to the sunshine shores of South Maui or explore West Maui’s dazzling snorkeling spots? What about a day on the windswept North Shore or a visit to Hāna’s untamed beaches?
Attempting to visit all of Maui’s beaches in one trip is nearly impossible, but the diversity ensures a perfect spot to suit every mood and activity. Whatever your style, Maui delivers. The real question is: Where will you start?
Ho‘okipa Beach Park
Pā‘ia
On a sleepy stretch between Pā‘ia and Haikū, Ho‘okipa Beach Park offers the last sandy strip before Hāna. But it’s not the sand that earns this beach renown – it’s what lies just beyond.
Ho‘okipa is a world-famous surfing and windsurfing spot, its sweeping cove pocked with exposed reef breaks that receive swell almost year-round. Contemporary surfing on Maui got its start here in the early 1930s, but legends about Ho‘okipa’s waves extend back centuries.
One legend from the 1400s tells the story of Kelea, a beautiful princess whose greatest pleasure was surf-riding with the chiefs at Hāmākuapoko (the ahupua‘a, or region in which Ho‘okipa is located). More recently, in the 1980s, Ho‘okipa rose to prominence as a windsurfing spot and now plays host to the annual Aloha Classic, an international windsurfing competition. When the afternoon tradewinds pick up, you can almost always find colorful windsurf sails zipping through the surf off Ho‘okipa’s western point.
Aside from surf spectating, visitors are drawn to Ho‘okipa Beach Park for its abundance of green sea turtles. In the afternoon, dozens of turtles – sometimes up to 200 – haul out on the protected sands beneath the beach’s eastern cliff.
Translated to “hospitality,” Ho‘okipa is welcoming indeed. Sweeping views of Maui’s north coast and the West Maui Mountains extend from the Ho‘okipa Lookout, which also serves as an excellent vantage point for watching surfers and, in winter, humpback whales. The beach park also features freshwater showers, restrooms, lifeguards and three shaded pavilions.
Travis Morrin
Big Beach (Mākena)
Wailea
Colloquially known as “Big Beach” and traditionally called Oneloa (long sand), it’s not hard to deduce how this 3,300-foot-long beach got its name. Although not the longest beach on Maui, it’s certainly one of the widest – measuring over 160 feet from sand to surf at its broadest point.
Big Beach stands out not only for its impressive size but also as one of South Maui’s last undeveloped, wild beaches. Its preservation is no accident. In the 1980s, developers had their eyes on Big Beach
as Maui’s next major resort destination. In response, Maui residents created a grassroots organization called S.P.A.M. (State Park at Mākena). S.P.A.M. successfully lobbied county, state and federal officials to purchase the land from private developers, ultimately leading to the formation of Mākena State Park, home of Big Beach.
Fringed by a tangle of kiawe trees, the beach unfolds towards dazzlingly clear waters in shades ranging from turquoise to cyan to cobalt. To the north, Pu‘u Ōla‘i, a
360-foot-tall cinder cone and one of South Maui’s most recognizable landmarks, soars over the sand.
But for all of the Big Beach’s beauty, there’s equal danger. According to the Hawai‘i Department of Health, Big Beach’s hammering shorebreak is responsible for more spinal cord injuries than any other beach in Hawai‘i. Use extreme caution when entering the water here and always talk to the on-site lifeguards beforehand.
Drew Sulock
Sugar Beach
Kīhei
Sugar Beach is Maui’s longest beach, hugging the coastline from North Kīhei to Mā‘alaea. This unbroken strip of pale sand stretches close to three miles, making it a favorite among walkers, joggers and those seeking sandy solitude.
At first glance, Sugar Beach might appear to be a no-frills kind of place, as it lacks beach park amenities like showers or restrooms. But there’s far more to this beach than meets the eye. The southern end is home to Kihei Canoe Club and Ha-
waiian Outrigger Canoe Voyaging Society – both of which offer visitors the chance to try paddling in Mā‘alaea Bay. The threemile strip is also peppered with tide pools for keiki, occasional peaks for surfers and, in winter, Sugar Beach yields humpback whale sightings galore. At its northern terminus, Sugar Beach becomes Haycraft Beach Park – a popular spot for snorkeling and surfing – but there’s no official boundary to delineate the two beaches.
If solitude is what you seek, Sugar
Beach is a good place to start. The central stretch of Sugar Beach is undeveloped and often empty – and it will likely remain that way. Sugar Beach borders the Keālia Pond National Wildlife Refuge, a 700-acre coastal salt marsh home to endangered Hawaiian waterbirds like ‘A‘eo and the Hawaiian Coot. With no one else in sight and the noise of North Kīhei Road replaced by the calls of native birds, it’s easy to imagine the Maui of bygone days.
Drew Sulock
Kama ‘ole
Beach Parks I, II & III
Kīhei
A collection of three beaches, the Kama‘oles – or simply “Kam I, II and III” – offer a winning trifecta for beach lovers in Kīhei. Comprising a mile of the South Kīhei coastline, Kama‘ole has something for everyone from watching the sunset to snorkeling along the reef. Whether you’re looking for sunset views, snorkeling or a sandy place to park your towel, the Kama‘ole Beach Parks deliver it all.
Translated to “barren” in Hawaiian, the
Kama‘ole Beach Parks are anything but. Each beach has its own unique vibe and amenities to match, including lifeguards, showers and restrooms at each park. Kama‘ole Beach Park I, the largest of the three beaches, buzzes with the energy of beachgoing families, swimmers and sunbathers. Pick-up games of beach volleyball at the sandlot court are a near-daily occurrence. A stone’s throw to the south, Kam II is offers two rocky points with reefs perfect
for snorkeling and urchin tide pools to explore during low tide.
Kam III is the most dynamic of the three beach parks, characterized by its sprawling, shaded grassy area dotted with picnic tables, BBQ grills and a swing set for keiki. The beach itself is ideal for boogie boarding, swimming and snorkeling. In the evening, Kam III’s grassy hill becomes the best seat in the house for Maui’s iconic sunsets.
Drew Sulock
Kā ‘anapali Beach
Kā‘anapali
The title of Maui’s “best” beach is a subjective debate. However, when faced solely with raw data, Kā‘anapali is a top contender. TripAdvisor ranked Kā‘anapali as the fourth-best beach in the world in 2024 and the best beach in the United States in both 2023 and 2024.
Kā‘anapali is one of Hawai‘i’s most visited resort hubs – second only to Waikīkī – and the possibilities for fun on this milelong stretch are limitless. Ocean activities
abound, whether you’re surfing, snorkeling, scuba diving or hopping on a catamaran tour that departs directly from Kā‘anapali’s golden sands. Parasailing and jet skiing are offered in the summer months, while wintertime yields incredible whale-watching opportunities both on and off shore.
Beyond the beach, Kā‘anapali is dotted with renowned oceanfront restaurants, luaus, shops, golf courses and luxe resorts and spas. But according to Shelley Kekuna,
Executive Director of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association, it’s not just the wealth of activities that makes Kā‘anapali so unique.
“Kā‘anapali has incredible mana [spiritual power] because of its proximity to Lāhainā, the original capital of the Hawaiian kingdom,” Kekuna said. “Kā‘anapali was not only a warrior training ground, but it was also the place where royalty would go to recreate and relax. Those are some of the things that make Kā‘anapali so special.”
Drew Sulock
Wai‘ ānapanapa
Hāna
Add Pa‘iloa, the glistening black sand beach at Wai‘ānapanapa State Park, to your Maui beach bucket list. While this isn’t the place to sunbathe or snorkel (the pebbly beach is too coarse and the waters too rough to do either comfortably), Pa‘iloa’s scenery alone is worth the 49-mile drive from Kahului. The waters are a swirl of malachite and turquoise, becoming frothy white against black sand where the sea meets the shore. The surrounding environs are a symphony
of green, with palms tossing in the trades and native naupaka shrubs clinging to the low volcanic cliffs.
Pa‘iloa is the undisputed star of Wai‘ānapanapa, but there’s plenty more to do and see in this 122-acre state park. Hike portions of the King’s Highway, an ancient footpath that once circumnavigated the island or glimpse moss-draped freshwater caves steeped in local lore. Legend has it that long ago, a Hawaiian
princess named Popoalaea was murdered by her husband in the caves. When seasonal swarms of opae ula, tiny red shrimp, turn the waters red, it’s said to be a reminder of Popoalaea’s fate.
For all of Maui’s laid-back vibes, visiting Pa‘iloa Beach requires a degree of planning. Out-of-state visitors must make reservations to visit Wai‘ānapanapa State Park. One reservation will get you three hours in the park – so plan accordingly.
Andrew Shoemaker
Nāpili Bay
Kapalua
Nāpili Bay is as close to flawless as a Maui beach can get. Palm trees cast gently rocking shadows over Nāpili’s gilded sands. Swimmers tread brilliantly clear waters while snorkelers explore coral formations along the points. Low bluffs provide protection from the afternoon trade winds and sunsets dazzle between the neighboring islands of Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i – a postcard come to life.
Nāpili Bay is favored among families,
thanks to its usually calm conditions and gently sloping sandy entry. Mere steps from the sand, visitors enjoy the renowned Hawaiian Slack Key Show, held every Wednesday evening at the Napili Kai Beach Resort.
Nāpili Bay is also home to two well-loved oceanfront restaurants. On the bay’s northern side, the Sea House Restaurant is a West Maui favorite, celebrated for its ocean views, island-inspired menu and happy
hour offerings. Perched on the opposite bluff, The Gazebo’s macadamia nut pancakes and hearty fried rice attract scores of hungry patrons each morning.
A couple of warnings: The beach gets crowded quickly, and parking can be a challenge. Occasional high surf advisories in wintertime can bring large surf and strong currents to the bay – in which case sipping Mai Tais and noshing on poke nachos at Sea House is a welcome reprieve.
Andrew Shoemaker
2025Shaka List
by MONA de CRINIS
AS 2025 BEGINS, we’re reminded of the magic that is Maui. From the crater to the sea and all the beauty in between, this island is a tropical haven few forget. In no strategic order or preference, here are some of the people, places and things that make Maui nō ka ‘oi – simply the best.
1 Kai Lenny
A silver-dipped shaka goes out to Lāhainā-born Kai Lenny, a longtime shining star in Hawaiʻi’s iconic surf orbit. Recognized for his athletic prowess, from hydrofoil and stand-up paddling to tow-in and big-wave surfing, Lenny quickly became an international force in professional watersports. But his trademark courage and dogged persistence reach far beyond the waves he chases.
Lenny’s local roots run deep, keeping him tethered to his island home even as it burned. During the 2023 wildfires, Lenny and the Jaws Water Safety crew manned jet skis to deliver food, water and other critical supplies. His nonprofit, Positively Kai Foundation, redirected all received donations to fire victims. Lenny started the foundation in 2021 to support future generations of ocean enthusiasts and advocates. Mahalo to Lenny and his passion for the island.
Travis Morrin
2 Lifeguards & Water Rescue Teams
The twilight of 2024 illuminated the critical work of Maui’s ocean-rescue professionals who responded to more than a dozen distress calls in December of last year alone. A crucial cog in the islandwide 9-1-1 Emergency System, Ocean Safety Officers are USLA, CPR and EMR certified and skilled in rescue techniques and equipment.
From OSOs manning a minimum of eight lifeguard towers at designated county beaches to the U.S. Coast Guard responding to maritime emergencies, our shorelines and near waters are considerably safer because of them. Let’s all give these courageous water warriors a big, if somewhat soggy, shaka for keeping us safe in Maui Nui waters.
3 Paddle Outs
Few communal gatherings in the islands are as spiritually weighted as the paddle out. This symbolic ocean-based ceremony traditionally acknowledges lost
loved ones as mourners take to the sea on surf and paddle boards, kayaks, floaties and sometimes small vessels. Forming a circle, attendees share memories of the deceased, offer tributes and toss flowers or lei with a splash of water towards the heavens and a final “Aloha oe.”
Paddle outs held in memory of Lāhainā fire victims numbered into the hundreds. We send a heartfelt shaka to these floating memorials that help provide comfort and closure the island way, with aloha.
4
Humpbacks of Hawai‘i Exhibit
Nosedive into the ocean to watch a massive humpback whale glide mere inches above your head as you spy these massive cetaceans at home in the sea. You’re in their world, courtesy of Maui Ocean Center and Ocean Mind, which developed a cuttingedge 3D Sphere that virtually transports guests into the humpback’s watery realm. Pretty shaka worthy, right?
Through the seamless integration of 4k imagery, a 7.1 surround-sound system
Travis Morrin
and 3D active glasses, land dwellers can explore these ocean depths and discover how these intelligent, gentle giants live beneath the waves – their journeys, social bonds, triumphs and challenges.
Take a deep dive into their biology and the ongoing conservation efforts protecting these majestic beings.
5 Front Street
After Front Street’s historic Pioneer Inn burned to the ground in the 2023 Lāhainā wildfires, Kimo Faulkner vowed to restore the property to its former glory.
The beloved 1901-era hotel, built and owned by the Faulkner family, is among the many businesses that defined Front Street. And they’re determined to do it again. Some familiar faces have resurfaced, such as Māla Ocean Tavern, along with a few new ones like Coco Deck Kitchen + Bar helmed by West Maui’s Chef Alvin Savella.
Front Street Recovery, a grassroots coalition of landowners with deep Lāhainā roots, is working to streamline the full re-
build of Front Street in a way that is both commercially restorative and culturally respectful. A huge shaka and mahalo to everyone working to bring Lāhainā’s celebrated Front Street back to life.
6 Market Street
Something’s always shakin’ on Market Street, where culture and eclectic charm collide. Not more than a couple of walkable blocks, it’s a short shot with big appeal. Peruse pawn-shop treasures and antique boutiques, sip designer brew or sample a little local cuisine while you catch a live performance. Then there is Wailuku First Fridays, a monthly celebration of art, music, food and ‘ohana.
Since its start in 2008, this beloved community tradition has grown to include open-studio and historic Wailuku walking tours, holiday parades, a Wailuku Town Block Party and more. Any stretch of concrete and steel that can bring people together to shop and support local in an atmosphere of pure aloha deserves a shaka. And this party’s just getting started.
Daniel Sullivan Chris Amundson Maui Ocean Center
7
Classes at the Hui
There aren’t enough shakas on island to recognize the multitude of community workshops, classes and camps offered at the Hui over the years.
Driven by a mission to ensure everyone on Maui has access to arts, the nonprofit Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center in Makawao provides affordable instruction, free outreach and opportunity to support creative pursuits regardless of artistic aptitude. From painting, photography and printmaking to ceramics, glassblowing, jewelry design and more, there are many paths to your inner muse at the Hui. And while you’re sculpting that clay or brushing that stroke, give yourself a shaka for stepping out of your comfort zone.
8 Lana‘i Ferry
Like a salty, well-appointed workhorse that rarely rests, the Maui Lānaʻi Passenger Ferry provides reliable daily transportation between the Maui Nui islands – just as it has for the last 30 years. Operated by Expeditions, the ferry provides vital access to businesses and resources for
Amber Vision Photography
Travis Morrin
Maui County residents and is a gateway for visitors to Lānaʻi’s unspoiled beauty.
Pivoting to Ma‘alaea Harbor after the 2023 wildfires engulfed its longtime Lāhainā homebase, Expeditions has worked tirelessly to continue ferry service in the face of significant loss. A grateful shaka to Expeditions’ Lānaʻi ferry for keeping our communities connected across the ‘Au’au Channel – never sacrificing safety, comfort or sightlines, especially during whale season.
9 Kïpahulu ‘Ohana
Along the island’s lush southeastern coast, a plucky nonprofit champions community resilience and sustainability through traditional Hawaiian fishing, farming and conservation practices. A shaka salute to Kīpahulu ʻOhana, founded primarily to uplift the rural East Maui ahupua‘a and its people, for supporting growth opportunities that encourage self-sufficiency aligned with cultural and environmental preservation.
The organization emphasizes their innate interconnectedness and shared kuleana, or responsibility, of a chosen family. Through
interpretive hikes and hands-on tours at the Kapahu Living Farm, the nonprofit teaches both residents and visitors how to live in harmony with the ‘āina as Native Hawaiians have for hundreds of years.
10
‘Ulu (Bread f ruit)
Aʻohe ʻulu e loaʻa i ka pōkole o ka lou counsels that “no breadfruit can be reached when the picking stick is too short. There is no success without preparation.”
As a multipurpose Hawaiian staple, this high-hanging edible sets a mighty high shaka bar: A single ʻulu tree can yield up to 200 pounds of its starchy fruit every year.
The complex carbohydrate, rich in calcium and vitamins, is typically cooked, cubed or pounded into poi, similar to kalo. Skilled hands turn the dense wood into useful implements like poi-pounding boards. The ʻulu’s tacky sap doubles as adhesive, and its rough leaves rival sandpaper in effectiveness. In the rainforests of East Maui, Kahanu Gardens’ expansive ʻulu grove features more than 150 distinct varieties and is reputed as the largest global collection.
Kīpahulu ʻOhana
Leigh Anne Meeks/Alamy
11
Seven Sacred Pools
Perched along the jagged eastern edge of ‘Ohe‘o Gulch, the Seven Sacred Pools collect Haleakalā rainwater before it spills into the ocean. Also known as the Pools of ʻOhe‘o – which perhaps better describe the more than seven pools nestled within the Kipahulu District of Haleakalā National Park – the idyllic setting follows seven cascading waterfalls as they lead to one of Kīpahulu’s stunning ocean views.
The pools are accessible from Kuloa Point Trail, a half-mile hike from the visitor center. Depending on conditions, the pools may or may not be open for swimming, but the sight alone will whet any adventurous appetite. Shaka to park staff who keep the area pristine and protected for all to enjoy.
Ron Niebrugge
12 Cultural Immersion
Maui shopping meccas Whalers Village in Kā‘anapali, The Shops at Wailea, Lāhainā Cannery along Front Street and Queen Kaʻahumanu Center in Kahului deserve a shaka for thoughtfully balancing upscale retail with meaningful cultural immersion opportunities and a true sense of place.
From coconut husking, frond weaving, wood carving and the Hawaiʻi Wildlife Discovery Center to ʻukulele lessons, farmer’s markets, papa hula exhibitions, local artist spotlights and crafting the perfect lei po‘o, complimentary offerings and events celebrate Hawai‘i’s vibrant heritage.
Some participants may leave with a memento of their own creation or a new local favorite dish, but all take home a greater appreciation for the islands’ deep-rooted customs, traditions and the stories that keep them alive.
13 Voluntourism
While the first half of the decade brought us fire, plague and other once-unthinkable challenges, it also offered hope and opened hearts through voluntourism – a travel itinerary designed to give more than take. This uptick in visitors eager to volunteer with local nonprofits and organizations during their stay has proven integral to Maui’s revitalization.
Island guests dived right in, helping with beach cleanups and reforestation efforts to mucking Upcountry barns and gifting a shelter pup a much-appreciated day at the beach. Voluntourism initiatives like Mālama Hawai‘i reward visiting volunteers with perks and freebies such as complimentary poke or a free night’s stay at associated resorts. Shaka, shaka, shaka to those who come to Maui not only to play but to participate in the island’s ongoing stewardship.
Whalers Village
Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA)/Mathieu Duchier
14 Pe‘ahi (aka Jaws)
When southern Kona winds of winter meet a stormy ocean swell from the north, Jaws shows its teeth – and the bite is brutal but so shaka worthy. North Shore’s Pe‘ahi, or Jaws, is known worldwide for producing massive, well-formed waves reaching 30 mph at heights of 70 feet or more as they travel unobstructed across the vast Pacific.
Encountering Pe‘ahi’s outer reef only magnifies the power of incoming waves, shaping clean, big-barrel rides better left to the pros. The site of Quicksilver JAWS Big Wave Challenge, Pe‘ahi helped spawn the jet-ski “towin” technique used to position competitors in World Surf League big-wave events. A spirited shout-out to Maui’s legendary surf spot.
15 Westin Flower Drop
It’s raining sweet-smelling shakas at Westin Maui Resort & Spa, where “flowerworks” reign every Fourth of July. On America’s last birthday, 60,000 white and purple orchids fell from a Blue Hawaiian helicopter and showered hundreds of celebrants who gathered for the festivities overlooking West Maui’s Kā‘anapali Beach.
The collected blooms later become lei as guests craft souvenirs and gifts of their environmentally friendly Fourth. Red, white and blue beach balls festoon the property and animal-shaped pool floats offer a nod to area wildlife. Clean and smokeless, this alternative burst of color and adrenaline is a great way to refresh the holiday tradition.
About the photos in this story (clockwise from top-left):
16
Save Honolua Coalition
We send a salty, sea-green shaka to a grassroots movement that sparked the designation of Honolua State Park. Founded more than 15 years ago to fight commercial development of Honolua Bay, nonprofit Save Honolua Coalition has been working nonstop to mitigate harmful human impact to Honolua’s fragile ecosystem.
The coalition works diligently to preserve the West Maui ahupua‘a, such as collaborative management of the protected area, working the DLNR Makai Watch table to educate visitors on ocean health and providing complimentary sunscreen through Maui County’s reef-safe sunscreen dispenser program. Mahalo to these tenacious Honolua advocates for protecting this biodiverse paradise for generations to come.
Daniel Sullivan
Pages 34-35: Kai Lenny riding a foil board at Peʻahi (Jaws). Pages 36-37: Lifeguards Rachel Hillen, Travis White and Quinn Whitford at Mākena Beach (Big Beach); Ukumehame Beach paddle-out on Sept. 8, 2023; Old Lāhainā Lūʻau hula performers on Front Street; Humpbacks of Hawai'i Exhibit and Sphere at Maui Ocean Center. Pages 38-39: Art classes at the
Hui Noʻeau Visual Arts Center; Kīpahulu coastline southwest of Hāna; ʻUlu (breadfruit) is a canoe crop staple of the Hawaiian diet; the Maui Lanaʻi Passenger Ferry departs Māʻalaea Harbor for the island of Lānaʻi. Pages 40-41: Seven Sacred Pools (Pools of ʻOheʻo); Complimentary cultural immersion at Whalers Village; Volunteering at Kipuka Olowalu. Page 42: A big-wave surfer at Jaws.
Kitchen Kin
At Hotel Wailea, Chef Cruz fosters innovation in the next wave of culinary artists
story and photographs by Chris Amundson and Ariella Nardizzi
CHEF RYAN CRUZ’S journey in the kitchen has always been about more than nurturing the flavor of a dish. For him, it’s about nurturing people, from his global culinary experiences to the fine dining establishments of Hotel Wailea.
Adopted from the Philippines at age 3, Cruz grew up in southern California’s Anaheim Hills. His passion for cooking ignited while helping his father and grandmother prepare meals for family events. After graduating from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Los Angeles, he landed his first kitchen gig as a prep cook at CUT by Wolfgang Puck in Beverly Hills.
There, Cruz soaked in every lesson. He stayed late after shifts, peeling radishes and studying the chefs’ technique and command of the kitchen. “As a young chef, I was hungry for the chance to prove myself. I wanted to do everybody’s job better than them,” Cruz said.
His dedication eventually paid off. Cruz spent the next 10 years traversing the globe, learning fine dining culinary techniques in London, New York City, Los Angeles and Istanbul, where he met his wife, Jaila. His talent in the kitchen led him to
become a private chef for celebrity clients such as Oprah Winfrey.
Cruz and his wife found their way to Maui, where Cruz became chef de cuisine and later, executive chef for The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, The Birdcage and the poolside cabanas. His aspirations as leader of the kitchen, however, revolve around the success of his staff.
In November 2024, eight Argentinians worked in the Hotel Wailea kitchen with Cruz for three months. He patiently taught them how to use a peeler, chop vegetables and be in a professional kitchen. This year, four returned to work again on one condition from Cruz: Bring him a recipe from their homeland and teach him how to cook it, with the goal of refining and adding their own creations to the menu.
“In my kitchen, it’s a learning and creating environment. Accolades don’t mean as much to me as seeing the next generation of chefs move on to do their own big things,” Cruz said.
Maui’s seasons inspire Cruz’s menu for the various fine dining establishments around the hotel. The spice, vinegar and acidity of his watermelon agua chile combats the heavy, summer heat on the island, especially when paired with local kanpachi for a summer treat.
In contrast, a decadent carrot purée fills the body with warmth during the wintertime. Serve it with white, flaky snapper with crispy skin, or a heavier meat such as lamb or pork.
The chef also finds joy in discovering creative ways to plate his meals. His dishes play with negative space, micro greens and the ways in which a purée’s color, texture and flavor can influence the palate.
For Cruz, the kitchens of Hotel Wailea are a place for culinary innovation, fostering his legacy through the people that work in them and the dishes they create. “My kitchens are my children,” he said.
Ahi Crudo with Watermelon Agua Chile
For the avocado mousse
1 avocado, diced
1 tsp red onion, minced
1 ½ tsp cilantro, chopped
1 tsp parsley, chopped
½ tsp sugar
1 pinch black pepper, ground
1 tsp lime juice
Salt, to taste
Cool off on Maui with airy ahi crudo topped with a refreshing burst of watermelon. The spicy, tangy kick from vinegar and chile complements fresh, local kanpachi for a bold, island-inspired bite.
Purée all ingredients with a hand blender until smooth. Season with salt. For storage, keep avocado pit with mousse to prevent oxidation.
agua chile with lime and jalapeños, topped with a soft avocado mousse.
For the agua chile
3 oz ahi tuna filet
1 seedless cucumber, diced
2 jalapeños
½ cup lime juice
¼ cup water
¼ cup white onion
¼ tsp green Yuzu kosho
½ cup watermelon juice
½ cup cilantro
Salt and sugar, to taste
Blend cucumber, jalapeños, lime juice, water, onion, green Yuzu kosho and watermelon juice until well incorporated. Add cilantro and blend until smooth. Season with salt and sugar.
Cut raw ahi into thin slices. Season with a pinch of flaky sea salt. Serve over agua chile and top with dollops of avocado mousse.
Serves 4-6
Chef Ryan Cruz at The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea masterfully balances the flavors and colors in his dishes. His ahi dish plates raw ahi tuna over a watermelon
Pan-Seared Uku with Spiced Carrot Purée
Chef Cruz showcases his creativity with a lush, garden scene of micro greens and vegetables akin to Maui’s green landscapes. Sweet, fermented black garlic sauce lightens the earthiness of spiced carrots for a warm wintertime dish.
For the spiced carrot purée
1 Tbsp olive oil
¼ cup shallots, minced
1 Tbsp garlic, minced
1 cup carrots, diced
½ tsp toasted cumin
¾ tsp toasted cilantro
1 cup oat milk
Salt, to taste
Heat olive oil in a small pan over low heat. Sauté shallots and garlic until soft, about 2-3 minutes. Add diced carrots, cumin, and cilantro, and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Pour in oat milk and simmer until carrots are tender. Blend until smooth and season with salt to taste.
For the black garlic purée
4 cloves black garlic
1 Tbsp chicken or vegetable stock
Blend garlic and stock until smooth. If mixture doesn’t blend, add
1 additional tablespoon of stock until blended.
For the goma sauce
¼ cup tahini
3 Tbsp soy sauce
3 Tbsp mirin
3 Tbsp rice wine vinegar
3 Tbsp sugar
⅓ cup mayo
1 ½ tsp miso paste
1 ½ tsp dashi powder
2 tsp sesame oil
Blend all ingredients together until thoroughly mixed. Adjust consistency and flavor as needed, adding more soy sauce or sesame oil for extra richness.
For the vegetables
½ tsp sesame oil
½ cup baby bok choy, blanched
½ cup broccolini, blanched
¼ cup spinach
½ tsp white sesame seeds, toasted Salt, to taste
Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sesame oil and sauté the bok choy, broccolini and spinach until golden brown, about 3-5 minutes. Toss in 1-2 tablespoons of the prepared Goma sauce and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds. Add salt and more Goma sauce to taste, if desired.
For the uku
1 4 oz uku or any fresh catch
Season uku with regular kosher salt. Heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering, then sear uku for 2-3 minutes per side. Place uku over spiced carrot purée and black garlic purée. Top with vegetables tossed in Goma sauce and flaky salt.
Serves 1
Classic Beef
Wellington with Prosciutto
A taste of classic British cuisine is a rare gem on the Pacific Islands – but one Chef Cruz has perfected. His secret? Pair it with a rich, indulgent red wine sauce.
For the mushroom duxelles
2 cups ground button mushrooms
2 Tbsp shallots, minced
1 Tbsp garlic, minced
1 ½ tsp Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp VSOP brandy
½ cup heavy cream
1 ½ tsp coarse sea salt
¼ tsp black pepper, ground
Season mushrooms with salt and pepper and let sit for 30 minutes to oxidize. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over low heat until bubbling. Add shallots and garlic, and cook until translucent.
Stir in the Dijon mustard and allow it to bloom for about 30 seconds before adding the seasoned mushrooms. Cook the mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is dry and browned. In a separate small pot, heat the brandy to cook off the alcohol, then add to mushrooms.
Stir in cream and season as needed. Cook on medium to low heat until mushrooms are soft and tender, about 1 ½ hours.
For the bordelaise sauce
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 small shallot
2 cloves garlic
1 cup dry red wine
2 cups beef stock
½ tsp thyme
Salt and pepper, to taste
Heat olive oil in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add minced shallots and garlic and stir until golden brown. Add red wine, scraping up any browned bits, and simmer until reduced by threequarters. Stir in beef stock and thyme, then simmer until slightly thickened. Strain the sauce, discard solids, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Classic British dishes like Beef Wellington can be found on Chef Cruz's menu, of course with his added flair: a bordelaise sauce with shallot, garlic and thyme. The thin prosciutto slices add a small, salty contrast to the rich mushroom duxelles.
For the beef wellington
1 8-10 oz beef tenderloin
1 Tbsp olive oil
2 sheets 8x6 inch puff pastry sheet
1 egg
1 Tbsp cold water
1/3 cup mushroom duxelles
6-8 slices of prosciutto
Heat oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Sear the beef tenderloin on each side until browned on all surfaces. Allow the beef to cool slightly.
Whisk the egg with cold water until well combined. Lay out the puff pastry
sheets on a flat surface and brush the edges with egg wash. Place the prosciutto slices on the pastry in a single layer, overlapping each slice by about onethird. Spread an even layer of mushroom duxelles over the prosciutto. Place the seared beef tenderloin on top of the mushroom layer and carefully roll it up in the pastry, sealing the edges with egg wash. Bake at 425 for 15 minutes. Let the Beef Wellington rest before slicing. Serve on top of the bordelaise sauce.
Serves 1-2
B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m.
R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 $$$$=$40+ =2023 ‘Aipono Restaurant Award winner =Live music! Check venue website for information. Phone numbers are area code 808.
WEST SIDE
A‘A ROOTS Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 103, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. Vegan. B, L, $
ALALOA LOUNGE The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Farm-totable cocktails, mocktails, and savory bites like Spanish octopus, wagyu smash burger and tuna carpaccio, with butter mochi for dessert. International/Lounge. D, $$$
ALOHA MIXED PLATE 1285 Front St., Lāhainā, 6613322 This oceanfront restaurant offers innovative plate lunches and other island favorites. The titular aloha mixed plate comes with shoyu chicken, thinly sliced teriyaki rib eye and fresh fish. Mixed Plate. L, $$
AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259 Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with poke. Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $$-$$$
BAD ASS COFFEE 3636 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lāhainā, 738-8223 Hawaiian coffee blends, breakfast sandwiches, and stuffed muffins are located just across the way from Honokowai Beach Park. Coffee Shop. B, L, $
BANYAN TREE The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., 665-7089 Start with a seafood tower for two. Then try the banyan tree seafood curry or wild caught New Zealand king salmon. End with a warm island-inspired malasada trio. Great cocktails, too! Italian/Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$$$
BIG WAVE SHAVE ICE The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 2256770 Nāpili’s only shave ice stand, just steps from the bay. Choose from natural flavors like banana, tiger’s blood, passion fruit, root beer and more, sno cap and ice cream, as well as Valley Isle kombucha on tap. Treats. $
BURGER SHACK The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Al fresco beachside joint serving burgers, milkshakes, cocktails and beer. Try the Molokai Runner burger with fresh fish, citris caper tartar sauce and Hua Momona farm greens. American, L, $$-$$$
CAFE JAI Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., H-13, Kā‘anapali, 281-0901 Local spot serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, including Maui Wowie fried chicken, grilled teriyaki salmon and huli huli chicken on a seasonal, rotating menu. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D, $$
CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the avocado toast and mimosas for breakfast and herb compressed lamb and ragout for dinner. Lunch at the Hana Hou Bar serves chicken katsu sandwiches, or enjoy a three-course tasting menu from Chef Purpura. Pacific Rim. B, D, $$$-$$$$
CAPTAIN JACK'S ISLAND GRILL Sands of Kahana Resort, 4299 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 667-0988 Delicious grill anchored in Kahana’s community. Try Jack’s Mai Tai for happy hour’s daily specials. For dinner, indulge in a vegan taro burger, mac nut crusted fish or blackened ahi. American. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
CHOICE HEALTH BAR Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali All juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are made with fresh ingredients from dozens of local farms on Maui. Daily specials. American. B, L, $
CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiianstyle edamame, a juicy burger, or fish tacos to accompany your poolside mai tai or Bikini Blonde Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $$
COCO DECK 1312 Front St., Lāhainā 451-2778 Savor creative dishes by Chef Alvin Savella while taking in the ambience of Front Street. Try the crispy poke donut! Mexican, Seafood. H, D, $$
CRUIZIN' CAFE 3481 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Honokōwai, 446-3663 Cruise on in for refreshing drinks, tasty sandwiches, pastries and shave ice. Talk story around the surfboard table and enjoy the local vibe. Coffee Shop. B, L, $-$$
DOLLIE’S PUB & CAFE 4310 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266 Dollie’s has been the local hangout since 1983. Their pizzas are hand-pressed and stone-cooked. Try the Maui Wowee with ham, pineapple and fresh macadamia nuts. American/Bar. L, D, $$-$$$
DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC LŪ‘AU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
DUKE’S BEACH HOUSEHonua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or filet mignon at this open-air beach house. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$-$$$
FOND Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., #115, Nāpili, 856-0225 Enjoy a specialty burger or bowl for lunch and try the seafood tsunami for dinner. Finish off with a warm chocolate brownie topped with ube ice cream. Eurasian. B, L, D, $-$$
THE GAZEBO Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621 Have breakfast for lunch, or lunch for breakfast! Fluffy pancakes, omelets, plate lunches with Cajun-spiced chicken or kālua pork, salads and seven burgers to choose from. Ocean views are free! International. B, BR, L, $
HONOLUA STORE 502 Office Rd., Kapalua, 665-9105 Market in the Kapalua Resort with extensive selection of grab-and-go items like salads, sandwiches and sushi. Made-to-order pizzas, burgers, hot sandwiches and breakfast items are also available. Deli, B, L, $-$$
HONU OCEANSIDE 1295 Front St., Lāhainā 667-9390 Treat yourself to masterful culinary creations and stunning views as you dine on fresh fish oceanside. Try specialty cocktails like Charanda Daiquiri or Shark's Tooth. Pacific Rim, B, L, $-$$
HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar, and enjoy poke tacos, mai tais, original hula pie and live music. Don't miss the nightly hula show after dinner. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. BR, L, D, $$-$$$
INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Inu means “drink” in Hawaiian, and this poolside bar serves up island-inspired cocktails, local beer and wine. Sip and snack on pūpū, burgers, wraps and salads Hawai‘i Regional/Bar. L, H, D, $-$$
ISLAND CREAM COMPANY Lāhainā Gateway, 305 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 298-0916 Classic flavors meet island fruit! Make your own Glacier Ice snow cone, or choose from 36 delicious flavors of ice cream. Can’t decide? Take home a few pints. Treats. $
ISLAND PRESS COFFEE 2580 Kekaa Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2003 Homey coffee shop in the Fairway Shops serving hard-to-find Maui grown coffee beans. Start your day with a cup of Maui Red Catuai or a Hawaiian Honey Latte. Don't forget to add a breakfast croissant. Coffee Shop. B, $
ISLAND VINTAGE COFFEE 2Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., L5, Kā‘anapali, 868-4081 Serving up killer gourmet Kona coffee and acai bowls piled high with tropical goodness. Get your island vibes and caffeine fix at this popular spot. Cafe/Local. B, BR, L, $$
JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4909 Asian fusion cuisine and sushi, featuring fresh seafood, local ingredients, and Pacific Rim flavors, all with stunning oceanfront views. Pacific Rim. D $$$-$$$$
JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 Start your day with delicious ube french toast or a kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village, and end with dinner at the Nāpili venue. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $-$$
KIHEI CAFFE Lāhainā Gateway Plaza, 305 Kiawe St., Lāhainā, 879-2230 See South Shore listing.
KITCHEN 5315 RESTAURANT & TIKI BAR Nāpili Shores Maui by Outrigger, 5315 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #153, Nāpili, 579-8877 Immerse yourself in a tropical paradise with fun tiki cocktails, vibrant island-inspired décor and a menu brimming with delicious local-style dishes, perfect for a laid-back island experience. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, $$
LEILANI’S ON THE BEACHWhalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with mac nut hummus, and ‘ahi poke with taro chips. Entrees include filet mignon with green onion gremolata or Parmesan-crusted fresh catch. Don’t forget the Hula Pie! Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$-$$$$
LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 Try the house-made sandwiches on Maui Bread Company bread with pineapple coleslaw. The mac-nut chocolate cream pie and fresh-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance! American. B, L, D, $
LONGHI’S Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2288. Try a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. BR (Fri-Sun), D, $$
MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-9394 Māla delivers delicious food and killer cocktails with oceanfront seating. Start with an oyster shooter and some ‘ahi bruschetta. Then dig into seared scallops with truffle pesto, huli huli chicken with warm potato salad or the daily catch with kabocha puree. Mediterranean. BR, H, D, N, $-$$$
MAUI NUI LŪ‘AU AT BLACK ROCK Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Experience the history and culture of the Valley Isle through Polynesian song and dance. Lei greeting, all-youcan-eat Hawaiian buffet and open bar included. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400 Land meets sea at this resort fine dining experience. Savor ancient Hawaiian flavors with a modern flair, such as the seared ahi, pōlehu ribeye and shrimp pasta. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $$$-$$$$
MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on locally-sourced seafood, beef and produce to create delectable fare. Pacific Rim. BR (Sun), L, D, R, $$-$$$$
MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Shore listing.
MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing.
Enjoy all-you-can-eat Hawaiian fares like kālua pork, Moloka‘i sweet potato and fresh fish. Menu also includes keiki friendly choices like chicken nuggets and baked mac and cheese. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, $$$$
NAPILI COFFEE STORE 5095 Napilihau St. 108B, Nāpili, 669-4170 Start your day with a fruit smoothie and a savory sandwich, or pop-in for a coffee and baked treat. Try the Brown Cow with cold brew and chcolate milk and take home fresh-baked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding and to-go items. Coffee Shop. $
OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-0700 This oceanfront venue has won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Lū‘au on Maui 20 times – come see why! Begin with kalo (taro) hummus, then enjoy traditional Hawaiian dishes like lomilomi salmon or imu-roasted pork. Save room for the mangococonut chocolate bombe! Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
PAILOLO BAR AND GRILLThe Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200 Kick back with ocean views and cold drinks like the Lava Flow, rum complemented with strawberry, coconut and pineapple. Dig into coconut shrimp and food truck nachos while catching a game. American. L, H, D, $$
PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/ Mediterranean. L, D, $-$$
POUR HOUSE700 Office Rd., Kapalua, 214-5296
Local ingredients elevate classic southern Italian dishes. Choose from a la carte options or indulgent tasting menus paired with global wines in an upscale setting. Italian. D, R, $$$-$$$$
ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999
Line up for the half-pound Maui Cattle Co. burger on a brioche bun for lunch. For dinner, try the blackened ‘ahi or the honey-mustard-glazed beef short ribs. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$$
LAHAINA NOON Royal Lāhainā Resort & Bungalows, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119 Breakfast offerings include loco moco or coconut french toast, or go for the buffet to try a bite of each. For dinner, feast on a 32 oz filet mignon or seared ahi tuna with wasabi mash, bok choy and a misoginger sauce. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$-$$$$
THE SANDBAR Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Sample craft cocktails and island bites while enjoying an ocean view on the lanai at Kā‘anapali's only lobby bar. Hawaiian/Bar. B, D, $$
SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a sip of sake. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R, $$$
THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 6691500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesdays, stay for Grammy Award-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Slack-Key Show. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$
SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce will rock your evening. Sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak or mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pair with a craft cocktail or one of many choices of specialty wines. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N, $$-$$$$
STAR NOODLE 1287 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-5400
Big-city style and local flavors unite. Enjoy a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea as you drink in the view of Lāna‘i across the channel. The ramen broth is extra smoky, the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D, $$
SUNSET LŪ‘AU AT KAPALUA BAY Montage at Kapalua Bay 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6627 This twiceweekly lū‘au caps at just 40 guests for an intimate experience. Dig into plates of ʻulu mac salad, grilled ribeye with aliʻi mushrooms and kanpanchi poke. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au, D, R, $$$$
TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426
House-made pasta, agrodolce-style fish of the day and Italian desserts stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Great wine, cocktails and craft beer. Italian. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers and charbroil them to order. Crowd favorite is the Kaneohe Burger with garlic, avocado, cheddar cheese and crispy bacon. Don’t miss the Kona Coffee hand scooped shake for dessert. American. L, D, $
ULU KITCHEN The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-0081 A chef-driven restaurant led by award winning Chef Peter Merriman, serving up local dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Hawaiian. B, L, D, $$-$$$$
‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lāhainā’s rowdy whaling past. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$$
WAILELE POLYNESIAN LŪ‘AU Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Lāhainā, 661-2992 Sunset lū‘au featuring Polynesian entertainment and fire dancers on Kā‘anapali Beach. Menu runs the gamut of traditional Hawaiian and contemporary island fares. Lū‘au, D, $$$$
SOUTH SHORE
1054 TOGOSHI SUSHI South Maui Center, 95 E. Lipoa St., Ste. A-104, Kīhei, 868-0307 , 868-0003 No-frills gem offers fresh, traditional seafood and sushi served with omotenashi spirit from Chef Manabu with over 30 years experience. Japanese. D, R, $$-$$$
AKAMAI COFFEE CO. 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., #100, Kīhei, 868-3251 and 116 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 868-0003 Offering 100 percent Maui-grown coffee roasted locally for the highest-quality flavor. Espresso, French press and nitro brews available. Coffee Shop. $
AMA BAR & GRILL Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 Swim-up bar located at the Fairmont Kea Lani resort offering refreshments, lunch and ocean views. Hawaiian/Bar. B, L, D, $$
AMIGO’S 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 661-0210 Real Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas and their famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D $
THE BIRDCAGE Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi, St., Wailea, 874-8581 Elegant, high-ceilinged bar in Hotel Wailea. Japanese-inspired tapas, small plates, wine and an extensive list of craft cocktails. Japanese/Lounge. D, N, $$$
BLING BING South Maui Gardens, 30 Alahele Pl., Kīhei, 419-1256 Maui's only Chinese shave ice with condensed milk topped with fresh fruit, boba and jellies. Treats. $
BOTERO LOUNGE Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the surrounding Fernando Botero sculptures, this lounge offers nightly entertainment. On Thirsty Thursdays, a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Lounge. L, D, H, N, $
CAFE O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. See Central listing. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$
COCONUT’S FISH CAFE Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 and 2463 S. Kīhei Rd. Kīhei, 875-4949 Dive into fresh fish tacos or grilled fish burger. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D, $$
COOL CAT CAFE 1819 S Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 667-0908
Burgers, chicken, fresh fish, tacos and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $
DA KITCHEN 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Ste. E, Kīhei, 446-3486
Local food and good vibes meet! Spam musubi, chicken katsu, kalbi ribs, locomoco and da Hawaiian plate. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$
DIAMONDS BAR & GRILL 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 8749299 Casual watering hole with live music, billiards, TVs and darts. Daily food and drink specials, outdoor seating and latenight offerings. American/Bar. B. L. D. $$
DUO STEAK AND SEAFOOD Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000
Breakfast buffet or à la carte? Did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim/ Steak. B, D, $-$$$
EARTH ALOHA EATS 1881 S Kīhei Rd. 111, Kīhei, 8671171 Plant-based family favorites like tacos, burgers, wraps, plates and bowls. Vegan. L, D, $
FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Bagels and lox, fresh croissants, caprese salad with local tomatoes, thincrust and gluten-free pizza and spaghetti with pork sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. HR, D, $-$$
FAT DADDY’S SMOKEHOUSE 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711 Pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs smoked 15 hours over kiawe wood. Enjoy sides: cornbread, chili-garlic beans and two cabbage slaws. American. D, $-$$
FEAST AT MŌKAPU LŪ‘AU Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Upscale beachside lū‘au with an emphasis on Polynesian voyaging history. Known for its unique cocktails and artful, chef-crafted traditional Hawaiian plates served family-style. Lū‘au, D, $$$$
ELEVATE YOUR DINING
FERRARO’S RESTAURANT & BAR Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Enjoy a veggie quesadilla or grilled tenderloin sandwich served poolside. For dinner, ahi rigatoni. Italian. L, H, D, $$$$
FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten-free, dairy-free options. International. L, D, $
FRED'S MEXICAN CAFE 2511 S. Kīhei Rd., #201, Wailea, 891-8600 Fresh, flavorful Mexican favorites with a California twist at Maui’s favorite local chain. Killer margaritas and all-day drinks in a vibrant, festive atmosphere. Mexican. B, L, H, D, $$
GATHER ON MAUI 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 698-0555 Try a mana bowl with citrus vinaigrette or the scallop and crab orzo with mac nut pesto. Panoramic views. Pacific Rim. H, L, D, $$$
HAVENS 30 Manao Kala St., Kīhei, 868-2600 Eat noodles with chopsticks in one hand and a smash burger in the other! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $-$$
HAVENS HARBORSIDE Maui Harbor Shops, 300 Mā'alaea Rd. 2M, Mā'alaea, 868-0555 The Havens you know and love with some additional offerings, right in the harbor. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$
HOME MAID CAFE 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 874-6035 Family-owned hole-in-the-wall known for its made-to-order malasadas. Classic breakfast plates, saimin and sandwiches. American/Local. B. L. $
HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Beach Resort, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi amazes with Hawaiian sweetbread French toast for breakfast, calamari and a Magnum P.I. cocktail at happy hour, and Roy’s classic blackened island ‘ahi for dinner. Hawai‘i Regional. B, H, D, $-$$$
HUMUHUMUNUKUNUKUĀPUA‘A Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Idyllic restaurant constructed from Big Island ohia wood overlooking Wailea Beach. Menu features a balance of land and ocean sourced Hawaiian fares like Huli Huli chicken and miso butterfish. Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$$$
ISANA Maui Beach Vacation Club, 515 S Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-5700 Dine on bold sushi made from fresh-caught local fish while enjoying friendly service and an ocean view. Japanese. D, N, $$
ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $
KAI BAR AC Hotel by Marriott Maui Wailea, 88 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 856-0341 Unwind by the lava stone firepit with a kiwi yuzu gin and tonic. Pair it with a diverse palate of noodle stir fry, shoyu poke bowl or passion mango cheesecake. Hawai‘i Regional/Bar. L, H, D, $$
KOHOLĀ BREWERY 112 Wailea Ike Dr, Wailea, 8680010 Talk story while enjoying a singature IPA and local-style bar food. Brewery. L, D, N, $$
KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 A Wagyu hangar steak on a green papaya salad, charred octopus with local goat cheese, Kona abalone risotto, and a modern take on chicken and waffles. Curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D, $$$$
KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888
Eye-catching art and Indian relics accent a menu highlighting exotic spices and dishes, all lovingly created from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L, D, $-$$
KIHEI CAFFE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230 Hungry at 5 a.m.? Head to this local hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes and a cuppa joe. Cafe. B, L, $-$$
At Montage Kapalua Bay, Executive Chef Justin Purpura celebrates both land and sea with Cane & Canoe’s menu. Each specialty dish offers fresh, locally sourced ingredients from the island served before an oceanfront view of Kapalua Bay. Starters include charred octopus with chipotle-infused Maui gold pineapple.
KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock” – three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock to sear them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, R, $$$
KRAKEN COFFEE MAUI 1975 S Market Pl., Kīhei and 1 Piikea Ave., Kīhei 495-1885, 879-2230 See Central listing
LE BAZAAR Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S Kīhei Rd. #107, Kīhei, 268-0545 Start your dining experience by cleansing your hands with orange blossom water, then immerse yourself in the sights, sounds and flavors of the Middle East through a six-course dinner, ending the night with Moroccan mint tea. Moroccan. D, $$$$
LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with local seasonal ingredients, such as lychee, liliko‘i (passion fruit) and Hawaiian navel oranges, pair perfectly with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Asian Fusion/Lounge. H, $
LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If Cantonese lobster noodles and leeks, ginger and XO butter, crispy Korean chicken with pickles made in house, and Wagyu Kalbi short ribs with garlic rice get your juices flowing, head to Wailea. Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D, $-$$
LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, a locally sourced menu, swanky cocktails and performances by local musicians. Stay refreshed with the island watermelon salad to pair with Kona lobster or 17 pieces of the chef’s special selection of maki rolls, sashimi and nigiri. Pacific Rim/Lounge. H, D, N, $$$$
MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into authentic chicken scaloppine with a specialty cocktail or beer. Open Late. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N, $$
MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Co. beef and Italian sausage, or try ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$-$$$
MAUI BREAD CO. Dolphin Plaza, 2395 S. Kīhei Rd., #117, Kīhei, 757-8740 Artisanal fusion of Hawaiian and German flavors, such as handmade ube loaves, P.O.G. bread, German spelt bread and pretzel croissants. A must-visit bakery in Kīhei! Hawai‘i Regional/Bakery. B, BR, $
MAUI BREWING CO.605 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 201-2337 This off-the-grid brewery offers 36 craft and specialty beers, as well as burgers, pizzas, fish tacos and salads. Brewery/Pacific Rim/American. L, H, D, N, $-$$
MAUI LOBSTER KING 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 573-8818 This casual eatery offers bold Cajun seafood boils and crispy salt and pepper lobster, along with classic plate lunch options. Seafood. L, D, $$-$$$
MAUI PIE Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., #101, Kīhei, 298-0473 A slice of heaven awaits. Try the tropical liliko‘i or chocolate haupia pudding cream pies. For savory cravings, the chicken pot pie is a must. Bakery. B, L, D, $
MAUI THAI BISTRO Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-5605 Thai food cooked by Thai chefs. Kaffir-scented tom yum fried rice, green mango salad with crispy fried-fish filets, and house curries. Beer and wine bar. Thai. L, D, $-$$
MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to-go or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! See also West Side listing. Japanese. L, H, D, $$
MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman chain includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner, Big Island rib-eye with chimichurri sauce and banana cream pie. See also West Side listing. Hawai‘i Regional/American. L, H, D, N, $$
Cane & Canoe
Cane & Canoe
MOOSE MCGILLYCUDDY'S 2511 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8600 Serving up pub classics, happy hour specials and oceanfront views from the lanai. Family-friendly with free trivia on Wednesdays and bingo every Monday night. American. B, L, H, D, $$
MORIMOTO MAUI 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 243-4766 Headed by celebrity chef Masaharu Morimoto, this sleek restaurant in the Andaz Maui Resort fuses Japanese and Western fares. Enjoy wagyu steaks, sushi and sashimi paired with premium, aged or nigori sake. Japanese/American. L, D, $$-$$$
MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131 Guinness poured properly at Maui’s only Irishowned pub. Enjoy fish and chips, bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Great music and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish/Bar. L, H, D, $-$$$
NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILLAzeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650 Generous portions made with local ingredients served with aloha. Try the ahi club fresh yellow fin tuna, with applewood smoked bacon and caramelized Maui onions on sourdough. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $-$$
NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Enjoy classic seafood dishes beneath the stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R, $$$$
NOODLES AND RICE BY NUTCHAREE Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd. #128, Kīhei, 2980579 This newest restaurant from Nutcharee offers unique stylings of Asian staples. Try a Vietnamese crepe served with homemade sweet and tangy Nouc Cham dipping sauce or Singapore noddles with chicken and shrimp and stir fried vegetables. Vietnamese. L, D, $$
NUTCHAREE’S AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 6334840 Start with the ‘ahi laab tartare salad or crispy fish and mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D, $-$$
OAO SUSHI BAR & GRILL Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Gateway Pl., Kīhei, 666-8139 One of Maui's newest sushi sensations founded by Chef Bernardo Oao Jr. featuring fresh sushi, juicy steak and delicious cocktails. Try the Firecracker roll with lobster topped with avocado, kimchi ahi poke, cucumber, jalapeño, onions and unagi sauce. Pacific Rim. L, D, N, $$$
OLIVINE Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Oceanfront dining specializing in coastal Italian cuisine, featuring handmade pastas and seasonal dishes that blend local Hawaiian ingredients with authentic Italian flavors. Italian. L, D, $$$
PAIA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 See North Shore listing.
PEGGY SUE’S 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 214-6786 Bright 1950s style diner with jukebox serving burgers, creative hot dogs and old-fashioned milkshakes with over 20 different flavors. American. L. D. $$
PILINAFairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 Sip on oceanfront views and inventive libations like the ‘Āina, a rum cocktail infused with vanilla and Kona coffee. Includes sushi, raw dishes and a hot rock experience. Hawai‘i Regional/Bar. L, D, $$-$$$
THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 727-2038 Order mac ‘n’ cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. Score breakfast during football season, too! American/Bar. L, H, D, N, $-$$
PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with spinach tiropitas with caramelized onions, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough. Finish with baklava ice-cream cake. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $-$$$
PIZZA MADNESS 1455 S Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 Classic pizza joint with thick-crust pies, salads and wings in the heart of Kīhei. Open for dine-in, takeaway and happy hour. Pizza. L, D, $$
POINT BREAK PIZZA & PANINI Maui Harbor Shops, 300 Mā'alaea Rd., Mā'alaea, 868-0014 Homemade pizza dough and focaccia bread packs each artisan pizza and paninis full of flavor. Pizza. L, D, $$
THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens, fish plucked from the sea and a gorgeous outdoor setting. European-inspired. B, D, R, $$-$$$$
ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like chicken mole, pozole verde and langostino enchiladas with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D, $-$$
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880 Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list. American/ Steak. H, D, N, R, $$$$
SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068
Adjacent to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, half-pound burgers and fresh veggies. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D (Sat & Sun), $$-$$$
SOUTH SHORE TIKI LOUNGE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444 Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads and vegetarian items round out the menu at this hip bar. American. L, D, N, $
SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Celebrity Chef Wolfgang Puck's Hawaiian outpost is a celebration of fresh local ingredients. Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones then explore our ever-evolving menu. Pacific Rim. D, N, R, $$-$$$$
SUNS OUT BUNS OUT 1 Piikea Ave., Kīhei, 865-2867
Fresh, handcrafted bao buns of all different flavors with an island flair. Don't miss the specialty ube bao. Food Truck/ Fusion. L, D, $
TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch includes Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner fuses Italian and Japanese with pasta, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese/Italian Fusion. L, D, $-$$$
THREE’S BAR & GRILL1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Eggs Benedict six ways, including seared ahi, smoked salmon and prime rib. For lunch, Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen. For dinner, truffle-yaki marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/Southwestern. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
TIKEHAU LOUNGE Wailea Village, 116 Wailea Ike Dr. #2104, Kīhei, 214-6500 Innovative cocktails and pūpū inspired by Polynesian places and flavors. Pacific Rim. H, D, N, $$
TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $-$$
THE TREEHOUSE HOTEL WAILEA, 555 Kaukahi, St., Wailea, 874-0500 A unique dining experience tucked in the branches of mango and avocado trees. Seven course
private chef dinner with wine pairings for up to six people (seated). Private Dining, D, R, $$$$
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 877-3700 Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Treats. $
WAIKIKI BREWING COMPANY The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. B25, Wailea, 868-0935 Paddy’s Irish Stout and Waikele Wheat brew temper the heat of the jalapeño queso dip served with a giant pretzel. American. B, L, H, D $$
WOLFGANG'S STEAKHOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. B22, Wailea, 727-2011 An upscale steakhouse by Wolfgang Zwiener serving USDA Prime Black Angus beef steak, complemented by fine wine and fresh seafood. American. D $$$$
CENTRAL
808 OLD TOWN 2051 Main St., Wailuku 242-1111 Soup, paninis, sandwiches and salads in a stylish spot on Main Street. Open for breakfast, and a Wailuku lunchtime favorite. American. L, $$
ACEVEDO'S HAWAICANO CAFE 190 Alamaha St. 7A, Kahului, 385-3752 A family owned business combining Mexican and Hawaiian heritage with California Mexican style fare and plate lunches. Try the Fish Ceviche Bowl with cabbage, onion, cilantro, tomatoes, guacamole and chipotle aioli. Mexican/Mixed Plate. L, D, $-$$
ALIVE & WELL (BROTH CAFE) 340 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4950 Alive & Well’s revamped Broth Cafe is known for its health-conscious wraps, bowls, smoothies, bahn mi and salads. Go for a green burrito with purple sweet potatoes or try taro bahn mi and tan tan ramen for lunch. International, B, L, $-$$
AMIGO'S 333 Dairy Rd. 110B, Kahului, 872-9525 See South Shore listing
A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a Vietnamese burrito, clay pot or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D, $-$$
BA-LE 1824 Oihana St., Wailuku 249-8833 Vietnamese counter-service eatery with bahn mi, pho, plate lunches and fresh baked bread and croissants. Additional locations in Kahului, Kīhei and Lāhainā. Vietnamese. L, D, $$
BALAI PATA 425 Koloa St. #104, Kahului, 727-2230
Discover the vibrant flavors of the Philippines at Chef Joey Macadangdang’s innovative new restaurant. Indulge in specialties like crispy duck pata and balai sigang. Filipino. L, D, $-$$
BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650 This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut french fries and burrata caprese. Best pau hana in Kahului! Mediterranean. L, H, D, R, $-$$
BLAZIN STEAKS MAUI Wailuku Town Center, 790 Eha St., Wailuku, 463-5807 Plate lunch style steak with rice and salad on the side. Other offerings include chicken, salmon, spam and eggs. Mixed Plate. L, D, $-$$
CAFE O’LEI AT THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 500-0553
Fun, expanded menu at the restaurant group’s newest venue. The most beautiful mountain view in the Central Valley! Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, R, $-$$$
ESTERS FAIR PROSPECT 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 868-0056 Serving classic cocktails, tiki drinks, spirits, rum, mezcal, wine and beer. Local farm-to-table-inspired small bites. Rosé wine and daiquiris during happy hour. Open 2-10 p.m. Bar. H, N, $
FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., #330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing
FUEGO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 633-4436 Cozy indoor and outdoor seating on the Dunes at Maui Lani Golf Course. Argentinianstyle barbeque, pasta, sandwiches, cocktails and wines. Latin-inspired. B, L, D $$-$$$
GIANOTTO'S PIZZA 2050 Main St., Wailuku 2448282 Bodega-style eatery with pizzas and homestyle Italian served with aloha. Pizza. L, D, $
HAVENS Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., 868-0555 Enjoy the same smash burgers and sushi at this gourmet food truck. Plenty kau kau! See also South Shore listing. Food Truck/American. L, D, $
KALEI'S LUNCHBOX 52 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku, 793-3104 Hawaiian comfort food and plate lunches like the Furikake Mochiko Chicken served with rice and macroni salad. Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $$
KING’S CHINESE BBQ 197 N. Market St. #1717, Wailuku 242-8848 No frills, counter-service joint serving Chinese BBQ and local favorites like saimin and spam musubi. Additional locations in Kīhei and Ha‘ikū. Chinese, Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $$
KOHO'S GRILL AND BAR Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., #245, Kahului, 877-5588 Start with crab cake benedict for breakfast, mushroom burger for lunch and charbroiled chicken smothered in Koho sauce for dinner. American. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
Specialty coffees include the Haleakalatte, Kīhei Kicker and Mochawao. Iced drinks are served over coffee ice cubes Coffee Shop. $
LAS ISLITAS 520 Keolani Pl., Kahului, 359-1631 Island tacos, burritos and quesadillas filled with fresh ingredients Mexican. L, D, $$
LAS PIÑATAS OF MAUI 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 8778707 Try one of the signature kitchen sink burritos stuffed with your meat of choice, guacamole, beans, rice and more. Mexican. B, L, H, D, $-$$
MARCO’S GRILL AND DELI 444 Hāna Hwy, Kahului 877-4466 Family friendly Italian-American diner with homestyle eats like meatball subs, vodka rigatoni and shrimp scampi. Classic breakfast plates available before 12 p.m. Italian, B, L, D, $$-$$$
MAUI COOKIE LAB Kahului Office Center, 140 Ho‘ohana St., Ste. 101, Kahului, 300-0022 Handcrafted with aloha and serving up classic cookies with a tropical twist. Mouthwatering flavors include oatmeal cookies with liliko‘i (passion fruit) glaze and white chocolate macadamia nut cookies with pineapple. Treats. $
MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches, wraps, and bagels and lox made to order. Freshroasted coffee beans set this experience above the rest. “Happy Cappy Hour” 2-6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H, $
MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery .com Kyle Kawakami dishes up imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck/ Hawaiian/Fusion. L, $
MIKO’S CUISINE 1764 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 868-2914
Small off-the-beaten-path eatery with Chinese, Korean and Japanese fares. Asian. L, D, $$
MIYAKO SUSHI 1883 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-0085
Sequestered Okazuya style sushi joint also specializing in antiques and local snacks. Carryout only. Japanese. B, L, $
MOMONA BAKERY AND COFFEE SHOP 7 E Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului, 214-5389 Chic, spacious coffee shop serving fresh pastries, including cakes and Argentinianstyle croissants. Bakery/Coffee Shop. B, L, $
MY THAI MAUI 230 Hāna Hwy, Kahului 877-8887
Hole-in-the-wall eatery serving authentic Thai plates like tom kha, larb and pad woon sen. Favorites like curry, pad thai and bao are also on offer. Don't miss the mango sticky rice for dessert. Thai, L, D, $$
OGO 331 Ho‘okahi St., Ste. 201, Wailuku, 866-8224
Craving local Hawaiian bites with an Asian twist? Popular dishes include taro gnocchi, tender oxtail katsu, green tea soba carbonara and miso-broiled local fish. Asian Fusion/ Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $$
THE PARLAY 2086 Main St., Wailuku 214-5161 Enjoy craft cocktails and elevated bar food at this retro-style tavern situated in the heart of Wailuku Town. Try the French Puddin' Toast with banana, caramel and pecan crumble on a flan-soaked croissant. American. L, H, D, $
RAMEN YA Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 W Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 873-9688 Explore over a dozen unique ramen options. Opt for the big bowl ramen to savor a variety of flavors in one dish. Japanese. L, D, $$
SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124
This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L, $
SHIKEDA BENTO PATISSERIE 2050 Main St., Wailuku 500-2556 Japanese bento and patisserie shop located in the food court on Main Street in Wailuku. Get there early for a selection of bentos and colorful Japanese pastries like azuki cream puffs, matcha berry rolls and ube coconut shortcake. Japanese, B, L, $-$$
SIXTYTWO MARCKET 62 N Market St., 793-2277
Part market, part brunch joint with artfully plated eggs benedict, frittatas and omelettes. Lunch time offerings include soup, sandwiches and salads. American. B, L, $$
STILLWELL'S BAKERY 1740 W Ka‘ahumanu Ave, Wailuku, 243-2243 Serving up homemade delights from flaky pastries to the famous cream horns. Hearty sandwiches, Chinese chicken salad and homemade dressings like raspberry vinaigrette are fan favorites. Bakery. B, L, D, $-$$
THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai. Food Truck/Thai. L, D, $
TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE Dairy Center, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026 Taste authentic Thai at family-owned Tiki Tiki. Fresh herbs from their own garden bring traditional flavors to life. Favorites include drunken noodles, yellow curry and papaya salad. Thai. L, D, $$
TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753
Sheldon Simeon of Bravo’s Top Chef builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with mochiko chicken or garlic shrimp. Try the double-fried-chicken sandwich on a brioche bun. Pacific Rim. L, $
TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311
Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke. Asian. B, L, $
TASTY CRUST 1770 Mill St., Wailuku, 244-0845 A Maui mainstay since 1942 serving breakfast classics and islandstyle lunch and dinner. Cash or debit only. American, Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $
THE EMPANADA LADY2119 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 868-4544 Garden-like eatery in the heart of Wailuku serving authentic Puerto Rican fares like Mamas Fried Chicken with fried green plantain with chimi aioli. Puerto Rican. L, D, $$
TIFFANY’S 1424 Lower Main St., Wailuku 249-0052
Revitalized local eatery helmed by celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon. Filipino, Japanese and local-style fares. Pacific Rim Open for lunch on weekends. Asian, Local. L, D, $$
TOKYO TEI 1063 Lower Main St., Wailuku 242-9630
Longstanding Wailuku staple with authentic Japanese fares made from scratch in a family-friendly atmosphere. Japanese. L, D, $$
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing.
UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 500-1802 and 1440 Lower Main St., Wailuku, 633-2502. If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon and unagi rocks your world, then chef Jayse Sato’s restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations, epic soft-shell crab bao buns. BYOB. Japanese. D, $-$$
WAILUKU COFFEE COMPANY 26 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259 Espresso, breakfast bagels, fresh salads and specialty sandwiches in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Coffee Shop. B, L, $
UPCOUNTRY
ALBA’S CUBAN COLADAS 55 Kiopaa St., Makawao, 305-773-7107 This coffee truck brings bold, rich flavors of authentic Cuban coffee, serving up potent espresso and traditional cuisine. Coffee Shop. $
CASANOVA 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220 Upscale Italian with delicious fresh pastas, wood-fired pizzas and polished service. Don't miss the wood-fired homemade foccaccia served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Italian. D, R, $$
ESPRESSO MAFIA 3617 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 286-9422 Options for every coffee lover with light bites on the side. Order a piece slice of fresh baked banana bread and a coconut cold brew, or try the ube latte for a violet delight! Coffee Shop. $
FRESHIES Makawao Courtyard, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 868-2350 Serving vegetarian and vegan-friendly recipes, each bite of their fresh food is a delight, from a musubi omelet with diced Spam to the coconut red curry bowl with tofu. American. B, L, $-$$
GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict and baked goods made from scratch are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions served with chips and coleslaw. Coffee Shop/Cafe. B, L, $-$$
HALI‘IMAILE GENERAL STORE 900 Hali‘imaile Rd., Makawao, 572-2666 Located on the road to Haleakalā, this farm-to-table restaurant blends Hawaiian and Asian cuisine. Don't miss the signature Maui Gold pineapple upside down cake. Pacific Rim. L, D, $$$
JOY’S PLACE LIVE 81 Makawao Ave., Pukalani, 5722186 Maui’s go-to for take-home health eats from hearty bone broths to Buddha bowls, vegan desserts, tonics and almond shakes. Homemade soups made daily. Cafe. B, L, D, $-$$
KALEI'S LUNCHBOX 55 Pukalani St., Makawao, 793-0151 See Central listing.
KOJIMA'S SUSHI RESTAURANT 81 Makawao Ave., #114, Pukalani, 573-2859 Casual dining in the heart of Pukalani brings a fresh take on island-inspired sushi classics featuring favorites like the rainbow roll, Hawaiian roll and zesty, spicy edamame. Japanese. D, $$-$$$
KULA LODGE 15200 Haleakalā Hwy., Kula, 878-1535 Come for the beautiful views and manicured garden, stay for a farm-to-table brunch and wood-fired pizzas. Enjoy crispy french fries smothered in Maui Nui venison ragout and mozzarella during Happy Hour. Now under 5 Palms management. American, Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$
KULAMALU FOOD TRUCK LOT Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani, (next to Upcountry Longs) An eclectic array of fare, including vegetarian, plate lunch, açai bowls, barbecue and more. Food Truck. $-$$
LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones and artisan breads baked fresh daily. Great coffee. Cash only. French/ Bakery. B, L, (Weds-Sun), $
MAHALO ALEWORKS30 Kupaoa St., #101, Pukalani Taste of Maui’s wild side with unique beers like a starfruit rose or Kupa‘a mango sour, each made from foraged yeast and local fruit for an upcountry flavor. Brewery. L, H, D. $-$$
MARLOW 30 Kupaoa St., A104, Pukalani, 868-3366 Chef Jeff and Kaili Scheer know good food, and this familyowned restaurant serves wood-fired sourdough pizza, killer meatballs and rustic salads. Great wine menu, too! Italian. D, $-$$
MAUI PIZZA TRUCK 24 Kiopaa St., Makawao, 2766529 Voted Best Pizza on Maui for its wood-fired pizzas topped with island ingredients like Maui pineapple and kalua pork. Pizza. L, D, $$
MAUIWINE 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-6058 Enjoy wine tastings and light fare on the open-air lānai. Immaculate grounds surrounding the wine-tasting room. Winery. L, $-$$
‘OHANA ISLAND GRINDZ 3647 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 500-3429 Cozy up with ‘ohana for local Hawaiian fare like saimin, loco moco and kalua pork. Don’t miss a scoop of classic or fruity ice cream. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, $-$$
POLLI’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao 572-7808 A Makawao cornerstone, this local watering hole is famous for its margaritas, Tex-Mex style fares and buzzy vibe. Mexican. L, H, D, $$-$$$
OCEAN ORGANIC VODKA4051 Omaopio Rd., Kula, 877-0009 Relax and enjoy the panoramic view of the island as you sip on signature Ocean Organic Vodka and Kula Rum cocktails. For dinner, try the Uncle's Favorite flatbread or fresh ocean poke nachos. Pacific Rim. L, D, $$
O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula, 856-0141 Learn about gardening and coffee roasting. Enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven and fresh-roasted coffee. Lunch includes chicken and fish entrees, veggies and dessert. American. B, L, R, $$$$
SATORI 3655 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 727-9638 Enjoy healthy sushi handrolls, like the Green Goddess with vegan mac nut pesto, ramen and inventive sushi specials with cozy outdoor seating in heart of Makawao. Food Truck/ Japanese. L, D, $$
ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Deli fare, lamb burgers with tzatziki and beef or grass-fed venison burgers. Plus, homestyle chili and rice, or kālua pork plate lunch. American. L, D, $
VIDA BY SIP ME 3671 Baldwin Ave., Unit H-101, Makawao, 868-0868 Vida delights the tastebuds with organic favorites like their rose latte, cold-pressed juices and pastries. Grab a bag of exclusive Vida Blend coffee, with notes of cherry, walnut and dark chocolate. Coffee Shop. B, L, $
THE WOODEN CRATE AT LUMERIA HEALING RETREAT 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877 Enjoy farm-to-table dining on a serene retreat landscape with clean, nutritious recipes incorporating harvested fruit and produce into a seasonal menu. Vegan/Vegetarian. B, L, D, $$$$
NORTH SHORE
AUMAKUA KAVA LOUNGE149 Hāna Hwy., Unit 3B, Pā‘ia, 793-3232 Tiki-inspired non-alcoholic mocktails made with kava, a traditional root beverage. Sip on
the lychee fishbowl made with liliko‘i & lychee syrup, grapefruit, lime juice, bitters and kava. Lounge. $-$$
THE BOBA BAR 2 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 727-2445 Local boba gem bursting with flavor. Try delicious concoctions such as brown sugar matcha, honeydew milk tea and honey lavender latte. Treats. $
BAKED ON MAUI Pauwela Cannery, 375 W. Kuiaha Rd., #37, Ha‘ikū, 575-7836 Fresh artisan breads, irresistible cinnamon rolls with cream cheese frosting and a warm, welcoming atmosphere with every shot of espresso. Serves coffee, breakfast and lunch. Bakery/Coffee Shop. B, L, $$
CAFÉ DES AMIS 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-6323 Savory crêpes served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita (Indian yogurt sauce). Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. L, D, $
CAFE MAMBO 30 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8021 Quaint Australian and European style cafe with all-day brunch and cocktail hours. Try the Toast Special with tomato confi on sourdough with whipped goat cheese and balsamic glaze. European. B, BR, L, $$
COLLEEN'S AT THE CANNERY Ha‘ikū Market, 810 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211 Hearty New American fare. Comfort food done right, from eggs benedict for breakfast to dinnertime’s popular vodka penne and Maui beef burger. American. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 661-7711 See West Side listing.
FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 5798989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Check-in each weekly for new carne and veggie specials. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N, $$
ISLAND FRESH CAFÉ381 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 495-3133 Local, sustainable bites in a former train station. Serves sushi, traditional, Hawaiian-inspired meals, smoothies, acai bowls, wraps, sandwiches and beverages. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, $$
JAWS COUNTRY STORE 4320 Hāna Hwy., Ha‘ikū, 4196887 Bite into gourmet breakfasts, poke bowls and woodfired pizzas made with local ingredients. Visit the spectacular Jaws wave and shop unique gifts and apparel from the market. American/Local. B, L, D, $$
LIMA COCINA + CANTINA 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 868-0520 Airy restaurant serving artful Peruvian cuisine like saltados and ceviche. Inventive pisco-heavy cocktail list and late-night offerings every Friday and Saturday night. Fridays are always Lima Latin Night with Salsa, Reggaeton and Cumbia. Latin-inspired. L, D, N, $$-$$$
MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Famous for its beautiful beachside setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine, Mama’s evokes old-time island hospitality. Try specialty entrees like Antartic toothfish caught at 6,000 feet under frozen glaciers. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, R, $$-$$$$
MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2810 Ha‘ikū Rd., 868-3518 A Mediterranean food truck to satisfy all your shawarma, gyro and falafel cravings. Try the vegetarian stuffed vine grape leaves with homemade Tahini or organic yogurt sauce. Food Truck/Mediterranean. L, D, $$
NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream! Japanese. L, D, $$-$$$
NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 This sixcourse prix-fixe tasting menu is created with the finest ingredients, like Osetra caviar, foie gras, wild truffles and line-caught local fish. International. D (5 & 8 p.m. seatings), R, $$$$
ONLY ONO BBQ Heritage Hall, Pā‘ia, onlyonobbq.com, 777-9026 Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches, smoked brisket. Location varies (see website for schedule). Food Truck/Chinese/American. L, D, $
PAIA BAY COFFEE & BAR120 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 5793111 Open-air, garden seating with live music, craft cocktails, coffee and meals served all day. The Aloha Hour from 3 to 5 p.m. features poke, ceviche and hurricane fries. American/ Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, H, D, $$
PAIA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 100 Hāna Hwy. Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare with a side of fries and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D, $-$$
THAI SPICE 149 Hāna Hwy., #5, Pā‘ia, 579-8269 Every dish is made like you’re ‘ohana. Enjoy signature curries, pad thai and hand-rolled spring rolls. Don’t miss fresh mango with sticky rice for dessert. Southeast Asian. L, D, $$
TOBI'S POKE & SHAVE ICE 137 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 5799745 A north shore go-to for heaping poke bowls and seared ahi plates. Or, cool down with a colorful shave ice with up to three flavors. Add vanilla soft serve or pinapple dol whip and top with specialty toppings like gummy bears. Local. L, $-$$
VANA PAIA 93 Hāna Hwy. #3, Pā‘ia, 579-6002 Start with a spicy liliko‘i mezcalita cocktail, then work your way down the menu and try the hamachi carpaccio, tekka maki, nigiri sushi, rainbow roll or blackened tofu served with shishito's and a fried egg. Asian Fusion. H, D, $-$$
WABISABI SOBA & SUSHI 161 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 3183342 Relax and enjoy buckwheat soba noodles in a serene Zen garden or order fresh sushi at the sushi counter crafted from 200-year-old Japanese cherry wood. Japanese. L, D, $$
WAIKOMO SHAVE ICE 43 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 6515169 Earth-friendly, delicious shave ice served in a souvenir coconut bowl all topped with fresh fruit, coconut cream and local honey. Add vanilla or vanilla mac nut ice cream for extra sweetness. Treats. $
HĀNA
THE BAMBOO HALEHāna Farms, 2910 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 248-4047 Wood-fired pizzas with island-inspired pairings like ulu and pesto, complemented by farm-fresh harvest salads. Open-air dining surrounded by tropical gardens and live music every Friday. Pizza. L, D, $$-$$$
DA FISH SHACK 5260 Hāna Hwy., Hāna 269-3922 Your favorite island fish dish is on the menu at Da Fish Shack, from fresh fish tacos to poke and coconut shrimp. Not in the mood for fish? Go for a Paniolo burger with black angus beef. Seafood. D, $
HĀNA FARMS 2910 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 248-7371 Lush, seven-acre tropical paradise offering organic produce, handmade goods and bakery delights like their legendary banana bread using harvested Maui fruit. Bakery/Farm Stand. $
HĀNA HARVEST CAFE 2800 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 2699188 Farm-to-table cafe serving fresh smoothies, coffee and sandwiches. Try their purple sweet potato salad or delicious banana bread made from local produce. Cafe/Local. B, L, $-$$
THE RESTAURANT Hāna-Maui Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Hāna-sourced fish and local produce are the basis of this original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juice. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$-$$$$
Calm at Kalama
Photograph by JENNI MATTHEWS
NIKON Z7, 1/2 SEC, F20 ISO 100, 24-70MM LENS, 36MM
KALAMA PARK, LOCATED on the sunkissed shores of Kīhei, is typically bustling with families, surfers and visitors. Local photographer Jenni Matthews frequents the park with her husband and three sons often for family day, where they fish, ride scooters and play basketball until the sun sets.
During the stillness of the pandemic in 2020, however, Matthews found the park eerily empty and all to herself on a fall evening. She knew the lack of people, symmetrical trees and incoming explosion of dusk’s color would make for a serene image with Kaho‘olawe looming in the distance.
As the sun’s orb caught the sky on fire in a neon glow, she utilized the stability of her tripod and a neutral density filter to avoid overexposing the image. The long exposure of an aperture of 20 and half-second shutter speed helped soften the wispy clouds in Matthews’ final photo.
“I love taking my camera with me to capture the beauty that surrounds us on this magical island, as well as being my family’s personal paparazzi,” Matthews said.
The Kīhei photographer began her professional career seven years ago, but her love for the art form stems from childhood, capturing life through the lens of an old film camera. Now, the movement of nature beckons her.
Matthews finds healing in Maui’s natural spaces and especially enjoys shooting waterfalls around the island. Frolicking in the powerful water flows and capturing her family’s enjoyment outdoors are often the destination for their weekly “family days.”
“A Hui Hou” is the editors’ pick of reader-submitted images from across the island. Send your Best of Maui photo submissions to photos@mauimagazine.com.
Kainoa Pestana
Pu‘u Kukui Watershed, conservation manager
as told to CHRIS AMUNDSON
AS HAWAIIANS, WE learn from a very young age that there’s a circle of life ... we don’t dictate where the circle goes. We go with the flow. Ka Wai a Kāne is a known mele [song] from Kauaʻi that says ‘Where’s the fresh water? It’s in the east; it’s in the west. It’s up in the mountains and comes down to the river, the oceans, in cloud form, rainbow form. It’s underground and comes up in all the springs.’ For me, that circle of life lives in that mele.
“Everything was connection between kānaka, ‘āina and akua."
My family is from He‘eia and Waikāne on O‘ahu. When I worked there, we did stream, landscape, loʻi [taro irrigation terrace] restoration and restoration of people and their understanding of ‘āina [land]. Everything was connection between kanaka [Indigenous Hawaiians], ‘āina and akua [God]. When I came to Pu‘u Kukui, through research I found my kupuna [elder] – my grandmother’s mother – was born in Kā‘anapali.
I found myself in places I’m supposed to be because I’ve gone with the flow of water. All the places I’ve gone to protect watersheds and rivers, family lives there.
Pu‘u Kukui Watershed, a three-tier watershed rainforest, is over 30 years old. It’s 12,000 acres from Honokōwai to Honokōhau. The summit’s name is Pu‘u Kukui and the mountain we take care of is Mauna Kahālāwai. We have over 100 years of rain gauge data. In record times, there were almost 400 inches of rain at Pu‘u Kukui. It was the second wettest spot on Earth. But over the years, weather patterns are changing. We’ve been getting close to about half, in the past five years. We’re all taking from [the earth], so we all have to give back.
This area is the pahuhopu – the goal of what we want ‘āina to look like. What you see here is all green, water, clouds. We don’t see runoff, which will eventually get carried into the ocean.
You got the canopy of tall ‘ōhi‘a and koa trees. Underneath, ‘ōlapa, smaller ‘ōhi‘a, manono ... then eventually, ground cover of mosses, ferns.
‘Ōhi‘a is the keystone species that makes up 80% of our forests. It’s the sponge that captures the water. When rain falls down, it creates a buffer so that moisture doesn’t hit the ground. ‘Ohu [mist] and the uhiwai [blanketing water over the mountains] get caught inside these trees; it’s a net, basically. The bog is peat, which is a sponge. Water flows down into the ground, then seeps back into the earth.
With run-off, everything that goes up must come down. Rain grabs the sediment and washes it down, covering the reef systems in brown.
The Kumulipo [creation chant] says that all life starts at the coral polyp.
We tell people, ‘No snail, no whale.’ If you’ve cut it off at the po‘o, the head, you can say goodbye to the rest of the chain. You don’t have plankton, you don’t have limu, algae, little fish, big fish, whale. Something that small has a big impact on everything else below.
There’s an ‘ōlelo no‘eau [Hawaiian proverb] that says ‘olā‘olā nō ka huewai i ka wai ‘ole –the water gourd makes a lot of noise, and it sloshes around when there’s no water in it. I say, be mindful and have your mind full. Be intent in the places you walk, touch and put your foot.
Scientists now say, ‘āina heals. We have to let it. ‘Hahai nō ka ua i ka ululā‘au’ – the rain follows the rainforest. Hawai‘i is getting warmer, which means that the cold is getting higher. So are the birds, mosquitos and trees. ‘Ōhi‘a used to grow at the summit all the way down on the shores. Now, the forest is higher up. The plan at Pu‘u Kukui has always been to build a koa belt at certain elevations and create kīpuka, little places left untouched when the lava comes down, so that the birds and insects can return.
People want things to happen quickly. Hawai‘i never formed like that. This valley took 2 million years. Every single drop of water and a bit of wind created these places. ‘Āina and nature moves first gear. We’re planting koa canoes for 100 years from now.”
