MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI MAGAZINE
Big Art in Wailuku
MAY-JUNE 2022
MAUI’S BEST BEACHES From sunup to sundown MĀKENA MODERN A bold, seaside home 5 MUST-TRY RESTAURANTS The short & savory list STAYCATION, LAHAINA STYLE Two nights of dining & dreaming
VOL 26 / NO. 3
VOL 26 NO. 3 US/CAN $4.95
M AU I M AG A Z I N E . N E T
“Its authenticity, intimacy, hospitality, cultural integrity and sheer romantic beauty have made this Maui’s top lū‘au.” F r o m m e r ’s M a u i
H awa i i M a g a z i n e
“This is the best lū‘au on Maui. I rate it the best in the state.” Featured in:
Emeril Live National Geographic Traveler New York Times The Travel Channel K a h i l i A wa r d s
1999 “Show”, 2000 “Attraction” Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau
Voted “Best Lū‘au”by Maui Residents Zagat Sur vey
“Excellent” “Extraordinary to Perfection” For Reser ved Seats Call
(808)667- 0700 www.oldlahainaluau.com 1251 Front Street, Lāhaina Along the ocean in Historic Lāhaina Town
Serving Hawaii Is Our Business
Pasha Hawaii delivers the broadest scope of ocean transportation services between Hawaii and the Mainland. Our fully enclosed, roll-on/ roll-off vessel M/V Jean Anne provides superior protection for cargo of all sizes and direct service between the Mainland and Maui. Find out more at pashahawaii.com.
PHH_Maui_No_Ka_Oi-printad-March2018.indd 1
3/15/2018 9:56:15 AM
BE A MINDFUL TRAVELER. As we welcome guests to Hawai‘i, we’re making sure that mālama —“to care for” in Hawaiian— is top of mind. As part of our commitment to help keep the Aloha State healthy and vibrant, we’ve partnered with travel2change to inspire guests to leave the Islands better than when they arrived.
travel2change.org/alaskaair
FIND EVERY SHADE OF YOU The Shops at Wailea 808.874.5467
Living
OCEAN ALOHA Visit the Aquarium of Hawaiʻi. Future generations depend on the actions we take today.
TICKETS | mauioceancenter.com
SHOP | @mauioceantreasures
DINE | @seascapemaui
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Cover: Photographer Daniel Sullivan captured this aerial shot of scalloped sea and sand at Oneloa — aka Big Beach — in Mākena.
30
ISLAND BUSINESS TRUE TO THEIR ROOTS Believe it or not, ‘Āina Brands came about because of a really bad cup of coffee. By Sarah Ruppenthal
34
MAUI STYLE MAUI’S BEST BEACHES — SUNUP TO SUNDOWN These five beaches offer a bevy of activities for a perfect day of sea and sand. By Kyle Ellison
44
HAWAIIAN SOUL PAINTING THE TOWN A sophisticated art series has transformed Wailuku into an openair gallery. By Shannon Wianecki
52
AT HOME MĀKENA MODERN This Bauhaus-inspired dwelling makes a bold statement on Maui’s south shore. By Matthew Thayer
Part of the Small Town * Big Art project, this colorful mural, “Return to the Source,” was created by local artist Cory Kamehanaokalā Holt Taum. Hawaiian Soul, p. 44
14
MauiMagazine.net
MIEKO HORIKOSHI
Features
Plantation Estates at Kapalua
Kahana Oceanfront Legacy Estate
Kahana Beachfront Estate
Kaanapali Beach Estate Sites
Puunoa Estates at Lahaina
Maui’s #1 Realtor® Representing Buyers & Sellers in $1B+ Of Maui’s Finest Oceanfront, Resort, and Estate Properties.
“For us, our client relationship doesn’t end at the sale. It’s just the beginning.” MARY ANNE FITCH
NAM L. LE VIET
S E N I O R PA R T N E R
GLOBAL LUXURY SPECIALIST
(808) 250-1583
(808) 283-9007
soldmaui.com
mauisold.com
R E A L T O R ® | R B - 1 5 7 47
maryanne@soldmaui.com
(808) 669-1000 | 700 Office Road, Kapalua, HI 96761 - Each office is independently owned and operated
R E A LT O R ( S ) | R S - 6 1 8 1 0
nam@mauisold.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS
20
CONTRIBUTORS It takes a lot of talent to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.
22
PUBLISHER’S NOTE By Diane Haynes Woodburn
24
TAG, WE’RE IT! Here’s a shoutout to our IG fans who get social.
Dining
26
TALK STORY Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. By Lara McGlashan, Diane Woodburn & Savy Janssen
80
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Looking for something to do? Here’s what’s happening on Maui.
82
PAU HANA MADDAHS AN’ SUNS By Tita
62
Stories by Becky Speere
70
FEATURE AN ISLAND OASIS Two days of dining and dreaming at one of Lahaina’s historic landmarks is the perfect getaway.
MIXOLOGY TIGER BALM This celebratory cocktail from the Fairmont Kea Lani Resort will make you roar.
66
DINING GUIDE Hungry? Check out this short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island.
HIGHLIGHTS THE SHORT & SAVORY LIST Need a snack before dinner? These five must-visit venues have just the pūpū for you.
72
Broiled herb-glazed roma tomatoes with capers and olive oil from Lahaina Grill will whet your appetite. Dining Feature, p. 62
16
MauiMagazine.net
MIEKO HORIKOSHI
Departments
Makena
Kaanapali
Wailea
Kapalua
Make your Maui dream a reality.
Maui's resort areas each offer ownership opportunities for condominiums,
homes and land. Contact us to learn more about the amenities and real estate offerings in the Kapalua, Kaanapali, Wailea and Makena Resorts. Use the QR code to explore our entire listing portfolio.
Courtney M. Brown
Realtor ®
(S), ePRO RS-56519 808.250.0210 I luxuryrealestatemaui.com cb@I uxuryrealestatemaui .com
Heidi E. Dollinger
Realtor ® (B). RSPS RB-23187 808.359.4245 heidi@islandsothebysrealty.com
ISLAND SOTHEBY'S INTERNATIONAL REALTY I 5095 NAPILIHAU STREET SUITE 113 A L AHAINA, HAWAII 96761 © 2022 Sotheby's International Realty. All Rights Reserved. Sotheby's International Realty ® is a registered trademark and used with permission. Each Sotheby's International Realty office is independently owned and operated, except those operated by Sotheby's International Realty, Inc. All offerings are subject to errors, omissions, changes including price or withdrawal without notice. Equal Housing Opportunity.
MASTHEAD
There’s a saying known in the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too. Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kathy Collins, Kyle Ellison, Savy Janssen, Lara McGlashan, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Matthew Thayer, Shannon Wianecki
Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director John Giordani
Editor-in-Chief Lara McGlashan CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Bob Bangerter, Bryan Berkowitz, Ron Dahlquist, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Sean Michael Hower, Andrew Shoemaker, Ryan Siphers, Daniel Sullivan, Mark Sullivan
EDITORIAL
Consulting Editor Rita Goldman Dining Editor Becky Speere Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Matthew Foster E-MAIL: Info@MauiMagazine.net
MARKETING & ADVERTISING
Sales Manager Brooke Tadena Sales Associate Benjamin Barreras Advertising Sales (808) 242-8331
Moving? Send address changes to: Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Please note: If your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year of notification.
ADMINISTRATION
Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske
Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi and Kā‘anapali magazines
NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION
Subscription Inquiries Toll-Free: (844) 808-MAUI (6284) Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services Hawai‘i MagNet In-Room Maui Circulation
PACIFIC
WHALE
FOUNDATION
90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print) | ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2022 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly subscriptions: U.S., $24; Canada, $44; Foreign, $64. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net. Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.
PRESENTS
Host Sponsor
IN-PERSON EVENT ON MAUI HELD AT
INSPIRING ACTION FOR A BETTER, BLUER FUTURE
IN-PERSON : JUNE 8, 2022 • ONLINE: JUNE 8-30 18
MauiMagazine.net
OCEAN VODKA ORGANIC FARM AND DISTILLERY Photo by David Fleetham
PACIFICWHALE.ORG/FILMFEST
Executive home in idyllic Kula
885 PULEHUIKI ROAD • KULA • MLS 393870 • $3.3M • BESTOFKULA.COM
Experience. Knowledge. Success. Buying or selling a home can be a stressful process, but not when you’re working with this team. With complementary skill sets, Mino and Sam bring a wealth of knowledge and full service to their clients—their top priority is making the buying and selling process as smooth as possible. As consistent Top Producers for Island Sotheby’s International Realty, they offer extensive experience with Upcountry, North Shore, and South Maui real estate. Most importantly, they work hard and love what they do.
Mino McLean RB-21623 Mino@IslandSothebysRealty.com (808) 283-9613 | minoandsam.com
Sam Utley RB-23179 Sam@IslandSothebysRealty.com (808) 344-7927 | minoandsam.com
© 2022 Sotheby’s International Realty. All Rights Reserved. The Sotheby’s International Realty trademark is licensed and used with permission. Each Sotheby’s International Realty office is independently owned and operated, except those operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. The Sotheby’s International Realty network fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. If your property is listed with a real estate broker, please disregard. It is not our intention to solicit the offerings of other real estate brokers. We are happy to work with them and cooperate fully.
CONTRIBUTORS
BR I N G H AWA I ‛ I HOM E .
One-of-a-Kind Artwork & Sculpture
Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).
Kyle Ellison is the author of Moon Handbooks Maui: Including Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. His work has appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Travel + Leisure, The San Francisco Chronicle, Escape, Journey, Hana Hou! and Hawai‘i Magazine. Ellison lives in Kula with his wife and three sons. @gooutsideandexplore Maui Style (p.34)
Named the Best Independent Journalist by the Society of Professional Journalists, Hawai‘i Chapter, Shannon Wianecki has traveled to Iceland, the South Pacific and all points in between on reporting trips. She is extremely grateful to those who have generously allowed her to tell their stories. @swianecki Hawaiian Soul (p.44)
An artist with a love for nostalgia, Matt Foster is inspired by nature, foreign cultures and the quest for simplicity. He believes that curiosity, play and discovery are key to creativity, and finds inspiration while cycling in Kyoto, Japan, where he and his wife currently live. artistproof58.com
Born and raised in Japan, photographer Mieko Horikoshi moved to Maui in 1994. She discovered her love of food photography while spending time in the kitchen raising her two young daughters. miekophotography.com | society6.com/ lilikoimaui | @miekoskitchen Hawaiian Soul
Pau Hana (p.82)
(p.44) & Dining Feature (p.62)
Glass, Ceramic & Wood Creations
Fine Jewelry, Hawaiian Crafts & More
Lahaina w Makawao w Pa'ia The Shops at Wailea www.mauihands.com
20
MauiMagazine.net
For his book Maui: Mauka to Makai, award-winning photographer Daniel Sullivan captured incredible photos of barren beaches and other unusually deserted seaside spots during the pandemic. When he’s not in his studio, Sullivan leads private photography tours. danielsullivanphotography.com | danielsullivan.tours | IG @ danielsullivangallery Cover
D Island
Let us be your connection to Maui.
Sotheby's INTERNATIONAL REALTY
Wendy, Kate and Jamie's roots go deep in the community. They share a passion for connecting people to the community of Maui and sharing their local knowledge of the island with everyone they meet. In working with Wendy, Kate and Jamie, one will experience true generosity and the Spirit of Aloha.
Wendy R. Peterson
Jamie Woodburn
Kate Peterson
Realtor (S) RS-61995 (808) 870.4114 I wendyricepeterson.com wendy@islandsothebysrealty.com
Realtor (S) RS-63712 (808) 870.5671 jamie@islandsothebysrealty.com
Realtor (S) RS-61995 808.344.7927 I propertiesofmaui.com kate@islandsothebysrealty.com
© 2022 Sotheby's International Realty. All Rights Reserved. Sotheby's International Realty ® is a registered trademark and used with permission. Each Sotheby's International Realty office is independently owned and operated, except those operated by Sotheby's International Realty, Inc. All offerings are subject to errors, omissions, changes including price or withdrawal without notice. Equal Housing Opportunity.
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
Just Keep Swimming
A hui hou,
Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher
22
MauiMagazine.net
MIEKO HORIKOSHI
It’s spring, the season when all thoughts turn to new life, replenishment, awakening and hope. Hawaiians have a ceremony to celebrate this sentiment called hi‘uwai. I was introduced to the ritual at the annual Celebration of the Arts by my friend, Hawaiian practioner Clifford Nae‘ole, and I fell in love with it. Just before dawn, I joined Nae‘ole and a group on the beach. It was still dark, but the call of seabirds mixing with the rhythmic sound of the shore break slowly awakened my groggy senses. Nae‘ole instructed us to think about our lives, of those who came before us, and how we are all connected. We then entered the water, some fully, some offering just a toe — how much of your person got wet didn’t matter. What did matter was our collective faith in the power of renewal. That experience reminds me of another trial by water, not quite as contemplative, but perhaps just as profound. Long ago, I hiked the Nāpili coast of Kaua‘i by myself, all the way to the Kalalau Valley. It was a self-test of grit — or maybe foolishness; 48 years later, it’s still hard to tell the difference. At Kalalau, I met other young adventurers on similar quests. Three of them, two guys and a girl, somehow convinced me we should swim around the farthest point of Kalalau to the next beach over, Honopū. Honopū is the epitome of remote. It’s flanked on both sides by sheer canyon walls, and it’s against the law to land there with any sort of seafaring craft. The ocean along that stretch of coast is notoriously rough. But with youth and folly on our side, and the assurance that we’d have the beach and valley all to ourselves, we decided to go for it. It was agreed that the boys would swim out first to test the current, and once they felt it was safe, would give us the sign to join. We all shed our swimsuits (because why not?) and the boys jumped in. Soon, they were mere dots bobbing beyond the menacing break. The girl and I looked at each other and dove in. Keep your head down and swim hard! I told myself. When I finally made it beyond the breakers and popped up, I saw I was alone; my swim mate had retreated back to shore. Far ahead, the boys were treading water, waiting for me. Should I go back or continue? I chose to continue. I joined the boys and together we continued around the point. It was a long, arduous swim and my elation at seeing the shore was quickly quashed by the sight of the immense, crashing waves we would have to navigate in order to reach the beach. I can honestly say that I swam for my life until I finally tumbled to shore, dumped unceremoniously on the sand by an enormous swell. I stood up, faced the ocean and looked out from this remote edge of the Earth, triumphant at being one of the very few people to arrive on this hidden beach. Or was I? As I turned, I saw a middle-aged couple, fully clothed, with a large picnic basket and a big spread of food. (I would later find out that they had chartered a helicopter to drop them here in this private paradise.) They stopped mid-bite and stared at me. “Hello,” I said, wearing nothing but a shy smile and a sheen of salt water. Slowly, the man extended his hand and offered me an apple. I’ll never forget that swim, not knowing if I was strong enough to make it, but absolutely committed to trying. I shake my head in wonder when I remember those days, and yet, in retrospect, times haven’t changed all that much — jumping into dangerous, deep water and pushing forward with your head down succinctly sums up our collective swim of the last two years. And although there still may be a few tumblers ahead, I’m willing to bet there’s also some warm, golden sand. Whether your style is to blindly jump in, or to simply test the water with your toes, I hope you find your perfect beach — perhaps even in these pages — and your own sense of renewal. And don't forget to pack an extra apple. You never know who may drop in.
Y OUR PRIVATE GOLF COURSE , MULTI-SPORT CENTER, AND ENTERTAINM ENT VENUE Enjoy virtual multi-sport games or host a viewing party on a 12' x 10' screen in our Topgolf Swing Suite, with a full food and beverage menu.
(808) 874-8000
LIKE US ON
AND FOLLOW US ON
AND
@FSMAUI #FSMAUI
TAG, WE’RE IT
Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. We see you out there, exploring the island and snapping those Insta-worthy shots. Follow us on Instagram @MauiMag, tag #LoveMauiMag and we’ll share some of our favorite posts in each issue.
@aaronlynton You can almost feel the sand between your toes.
@chrisbradyphotography Ho‘okipa surf
24
MauiMagazine.net
@jenniferashleyreedphoto Colorful Kīhei Kalama Village
@traviskeahi ‘I‘iwi party in a māmane tree in Hosmer Grove, Haleakalā National Park
Maui’s Most Intimate Beachfront Wedding and Event Venue 65 Hana Highway, Paia | 818.473.5166 @SurfClubWeddingsandEvents SurfClubWeddingsandEvents.com
65 Hana Hwy, Paia | 808.707.9752 @HanaHouSurfClub “Voted Maui’s #1 Local Eatery”
TALK STORY
Fresh off the coconut wireless
Monk Seals
Years ago, on one of my first visits to Maui, I stopped at Ho‘okipa to watch the surfers, but as I made my way down the hillside, I saw a large, dark shape on the beach — a happily napping monk seal. At the time, I had no idea what a rare and special occurrence that was; I have not seen a seal on land since. Hawai‘i has the disconcerting notoriety of being the extinction capital of the world, and monk seals are dangerously close to making that list. Hunting almost did away with them in the late 19th century, and today, there are only about 1,400 left. Endemic to the Islands, the monk seal is the official state mammal of Hawai‘i. Hawaiians call them ‘īlioholoikauaua, which means “dog running in the rough seas.” The folds of skin around their necks resemble the cowl of a monk’s hood, hence their English moniker. Monk seals spend more than two-thirds
of their lives in the water. When submerged, their heart rate drops, reducing their need for oxygen and allowing them to stay under for up to 20 minutes. The other third of their lives is spent on land, sleeping, nursing or molting. “Once a year, monk seals undergo a ‘catastrophic molt,’ where they shed the top layer of their skin and fur,” says Michelle Barbieri, Ph.D., lead scientist for the NOAA Hawaiian monk seal research program. Mothers deliver a single pup, and the pair stays on the beach for about six weeks to nurse. During this time, the pup can gain up to 175 pounds! Threats to monk seals include food limitation, shark predation, habitat loss, entanglement and especially toxoplasmosis, a parasite spread by cat feces. But thanks to NOAA and its partners, not all is lost. “The monk seal population has been increasing 2 percent per year for the last
Story by Lara McGlashan
decade,” says Barbieri. “In fact, 30 percent of the current population is alive today thanks to our recovery actions.” You can help, too. “Monk seals have one of the highest entanglement rates of any pinniped species, so participate in beach cleanups whenever possible,” says Barbieri. When fishing, use barbless circle hooks, reel in your line if seals are present, and reuse or share your leftover bait (don’t feed it to the seals). And most of all, do not feed any of the feral cats in Hawai‘i. If you’re lucky enough to see a seal, keep your distance. “Follow the ‘rule of thumb’ to figure out how much space to give them,” says Barbieri. “Make a thumbs-up gesture, extend your arm straight out and turn your thumb parallel to the ground. If it covers the entire seal, you are far enough away.” To report a monk-seal sighting, call the NOAA Pacific Islands Marine Wildlife Hotline at 888.256.9840.
A juvenile Hawaiian monk seal snoozes happily on Tern Island in Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument. (The seal was photographed for NOAA using a zoom lens.)
26
MauiMagazine.net
MARK SULLIVAN, NOAA FISHERIES HAWAIIAN MONK SEAL RESEARCH PROGRAM
species on the brink
COMING SOON TO WAILEA VILLAGE! 1111NIKKEI.COM
Quality. Consistency. Respect The ‘Āina Brands formula Help us brighten the future of generations to come. Every product you buy will help a child with special needs. 10% of our profits will go directly to Imua Family Services, a Maui-based charity, helping children with special needs access the right care to thrive. theainabrands.com | IG & FB @theainabrands Pacific Gold Ají Amarillo sauce made from Maui grown ingredients. Available through our website
100% Maui Grown Coffee in Medium & Dark Roast in Nespresso compatible pods (or capsules).
Waterman Hall of Fame inductee Michael Spalding grins at the camera, completely in his element. Inset: On his second attempt in 2011, Spalding crossed the Alenuihāhā Channel.
TALK STORY → day
in the life
A Life Aquatic We go. This local saying loosely translates to, no questions, no excuses, no regrets, just … go. It’s also the perfect narrative for Maui’s local legend Michael Spalding. Because if there’s water involved, Spalding will go, and after 40 years of going, he was inducted into the Hawai‘i Waterman Hall of Fame. This honor is bestowed upon select men and women within Hawai‘i’s water-sport community who perpetuate the spirit of our most famous waterman and global ambassador of aloha, Duke Kahanamoku, and whose lifetime of contributions inspire and perpetuate the unique connection between the Hawaiian people and the ocean. Suffice it to say, Spalding more than epitomizes this standard. Part of an old kama‘āina (local) family, Spalding grew up on O‘ahu immersed in tradition, culture and history. His love for all things Hawaiian and his mischievous passion for adventure meant that all roads led to the sea. “If the ocean is at your doorstep, you’ve got to take advantage of it,” Spalding says.
28
MauiMagazine.net
Story by Diane Woodburn & Savy Janssen
In true waterman style, Spalding partook of everything the ocean offered up, including surfing, freediving, spearfishing and bodysurfing. He is an avid sailor and paddler, as well as a former Junior Olympic water polo champion. But Spalding is best known for his prowess as a swimmer. To date, he is the only man to have swum all nine channels between the major Hawaiian Islands, including the seven-mile ‘Alalākeiki Channel between Maui and Kaho‘olawe in 2001, and the 26-mile Kaiwi Channel from Moloka‘i to O‘ahu in 2007. In 2008, Spalding attempted to swim the Alenuihāhā Channel, a treacherous stretch of water between Hawai‘i Island and Maui — but nature had other plans. “Ten miles into the swim, I was bitten in the chest by a cookiecutter shark,” he says. “As I climbed into the support kayak, I was bitten again in the leg.” Though it’s only about 20 inches long, a cookiecutter is all mouth, and this attacker stole away with a sizeable chunk of Spalding’s upper calf. Three years later, Spalding was ready to try again. This time, with only six miles left, he was stung by a Portuguese man o’ war. Despite severe stomach cramps and leg
YOUR PREVIEW HAS ENDED
YEARS OF SHARING MAUI STORIES To see the full issue, click here to purchase a digital subscription.
VISIT OUR DIGITAL PLATFORMS @MauiMag @MauiMag_Eats @MauiMagazine MNKOmagazine MauiMagazine MauiMag