Kā‘anapali Magazine Summer/Fall 2022 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

WHER E T HE WOR LD C OMES T O P LA Y

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ROLEX THE SUBMARINER Created for divers in 1953, the Submariner is a universal symbol of waterproofness and reliability. It remains one of the most iconic watches of all time. Now, with a new 41 mm case and a next generation movement, the story of the Submariner continues.

#Perpetual

Serving Hawaii Is Our Business Since 2005, Pasha Hawaii has supported Maui’s locally-grown businesses, including Maui’s own Haynes Publishing Group, a second-generation family-owned company that publishes Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine, Ka’anapali Magazine, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking magazines. These award-winning publications focus on the life and culture on Maui, celebrating the people, places and events that make this Island, Maui Nō Ka ʻOi. “Our partnership with Pasha Hawaii is one of our most valued. Pasha understands the challenges and unexpected snags facing small-business owners everyday. From senior management to dock workers, the people at Pasha exemplify aloha in their business strategies and responsiveness. They truly care about our product. The remarkable success of Pasha is reflected in their unwavering commitment to the success of their customers.” — Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher, Haynes Publishing Group

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Table of Contents | Features

WAYFINDERS

Learn how ancient Polynesians navigated the vast Pacific using only stars, seabirds and ocean swells. By Judy Edwards

KĀ‘ANAPALI CRUISING

Sail away with Teralani Sailing Adventures on a snorkeling cruise to remember. By Kyle Ellison

KĀ‘ANAPALI BY THE NUMBERS

It takes a lot of aloha to measure up to your expectations. How do we do it? Let us count the ways! By Kyle Ellison

GETTING WILD

Come along for a visit to the new Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center in Whalers Village. By Lara McGlashan

SEASIDE SERENITY

Relax and rejuvenate at The Spa at Black Rock, located in the Sheraton Maui Resort. By Lara McGlashan

TIPS TO LOWER YOUR SCORE

Left: Just how many hammocks are there along the Kā‘anapali Beach Walk? Answers to this question and more on page 32. Cover: Maui photographer Andrew Shoemaker captured this iconic image of Kā‘anapali Beach; the palm trees reach across the sand, as if longing to touch the sea. Ever wonder how many strokes it takes to paddle the length of Kā‘anapali Beach? Find out on page 46.

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COURTESY OF THE HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA

Play like a local! Use these tips to conquer the links at Kā‘anapali Golf Courses.

Table of Contents | Dining & Departments

Wayfaring and world-class cuisine — that’s what you’ll find at Huihui, the newest dining venue at at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel.

DEPARTMENTS 12

Chef Tom Muromoto’s mash-up of international cuisines takes celestial center stage at Huihui, the newest dining venue at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel. By Becky Speere

Here are some of the talented folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

Star Power

Filipino Fusion See why Macadangdang — chef Joey Macadangdang’s third dining venue — is the perfect place to celebrate. By Becky Speere

Dining Guide Hungry? Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find it at Kā‘anapali — just a beach walk away.

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Contributors

Welcome Letter

Nīele In Hawaiian, nīele means inquisitive — and if you’re curious about the nature, people and culture of Kā‘anapali, turn here for some insight. By Rick Chatenever & Diane Woodburn

President of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association Tets Yamazaki welcomes you to paradise.

Looking for adventure, culture or island history? Whatever you’re into, you’ve come to the right place.

Map Quest Use this resort map to find shopping, food and fun.

See Learn Do MIEKO HORIKOSHI

DINING 46

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maui’s better with cocktails hula grill leilani’s on the beach monkeypod kitchen

The official publication of the Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association

PUBLISHED BY Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lara McGlashan ART DIRECTOR John Giordani CONSULTING EDITOR Rita Goldman WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox MARKETING & ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGER Brooke Tadena SALES ASSOCIATE Ben Barreras ADVERTISING SALES 808.242.8331 ADMINISTRATION CONTROLLER Kao Kushner SUBSCRIPTIONS & OFFICE MANAGER Nancy Wenske CONTRIBUTORS WRITERS

Rick Chatenever, Judy Edwards, Kyle Ellison, Lara McGlashan, Becky Speere, Diane Woodburn PHOTOGRAPHERS

Blair Bigham, Cesere Brothers, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Jason Moore, Flip Nicklin, Douglas Peebles, Ryan Siphers E-MAIL Info@MauiMagazine.net Kā‘anapali Magazine is published semiannually in cooperation with the Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association by Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI, 96793 | 808.242.8331 All rights reserved. ©2022 This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. Printed in USA. Individual issues are available upon written request at $3 (U.S.) per magazine, plus postage and handling.

Kā‘anapali Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

beachfront shopping, dining and entertainment. WHALERSVILLAGE.COM | 2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Lahaina, Maui Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi and Kā‘anapali Magazines

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Contributors Kyle Ellison

Feelance writer Kyle Ellison is the author of Moon Handbooks Maui: Including Moloka‘i, and Lāna‘i. His work has appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Travel + Leisure, The San Francisco Chronicle, Travel Channel, Escape, Journey, Hana Hou! and Hawai‘i Magazine. He lives in Kula with his wife and three sons. @gooutsideandexplore_

*guaranteed

Kā‘anapali Cruising (p. 28) & Kā‘anapali by the Numbers (p. 32)

Judy Edwards

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MUSEUM II W W I U A M P M ic Landmark, + CA aui's WWII Histor

N to M Tour) rthshore Zipline FREE ADMISSIO th (with a booked No ur Fo g tin gh Fi e home of th

Conservation advocate and writer Judy Edwards has worked to protect the natural world for all of her 28 years in Hawai‘i. She works for a nonprofit that supports Hawai‘i’s national parks, and in her spare time, pens freelance articles to help foster a love of wildlife and wild lands. She has a special place in her heart for the unsung heroes of conservation who quietly hold the world together. Wayfinders (p. 22)

Ryan Siphers

Professional photographer Ryan Siphers has lived on Maui since 2007, and enjoys working, playing and raising his family on the island. His job enables him to explore amazing landscapes, gorgeous homes and interesting people. Siphers also collaborates with chefs to photograph great food. ryansiphersphotography.com @ryansiphersimages Living Aloha (p. 20)

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Lara McGlashan

A writer and editor for more than 20 years, Lara McGlashan currently serves as the Editor-inChief for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine. She lives in Kīhei with her son and cattledog, and learns something new every day about her island home. @laraoxyeditor Getting Wild (p. 40) & Seaside Serenity (p. 56)

Becky Speere

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Chef consultant, former owner of Pa‘uwela Cafe in Ha‘ikū, and Dining Editor for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Becky Speere, grew up on Hawai‘i Island amid a world of flavors, such as butter beans, bamboo shoots, fiddlehead ferns and wild-boar sausage. It’s no wonder she’s a gastronomic guru! @beckyeatsmaui Star Power (p. 46) & Filipino Fusion (p. 50)

Mieko Horikoshi

Equal parts foodie and photographer, Mieko Horikoshi is a member of the Professional Photographers of America and the American Society of Media Photographers. Born and raised in Japan, Horikoshi moved to Maui in 1994 where she currently lives with her two daughters. miekophotography.com @miekophoto @miekophotoportrait Star Power (p. 46)

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Letter from the Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association

E Komo Mai

Scan this code for our digital edition.

(Welcome)

Aloha! After two challenging years, we are delighted to welcome back our returning guests as well as first-time visitors to our islands and to Maui. We are especially excited to introduce you to the newly enhanced Kā‘anapali Beach Resort! Our reimagined properties are as stunning as they are functional, with even better guest experiences, amazing room renovations, new dining venues and much, much more. The theme of this issue of Kā‘anapali Magazine is wayfinding, an apt motif given the events in the recent past. Within these pages, you’ll find stories that complement this idea, and that also will help you navigate the resort. In the article “Wayfinders,” you’ll learn about the ancient Polynesians who used only their wits, the winds and the skies to guide them as they traveled thousands of miles across the Pacific to arrive in these islands. Speaking of stars, you’ll meet Eddie Mahoney, the Hyatt Regency Resort & Spa’s director of astronomy, who has been showing people the skies for more than 20 years; find out how you can join him for an exploration of the universe. For an out-of-this-world dining experience, visit Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel’s newest — and highly acclaimed — restaurant, Huihui. The venue pays homage to Hawai‘i’s wayfinding past in its decor, and even in its name: huihui is Hawaiian for “constellation.” Learn how to navigate Kā‘anapali Golf Courses to arrive at your best score ever, and sail across the Pacific yourself on a ride-along snorkeling cruise with Teralani Sailing Adventures. Of course there’s a lot more to discover about Kā‘anapali Beach Resort, and Kā‘anapali Magazine is your go-to guide to all the activities and amenities that make us a renowned global destination. For example, no vacation would be complete without a little pampering, and you can read up on the latest treatments offered by The Spa at Black Rock, located at the Sheraton Maui Resort. Foodies will love “Filipino Fusion,” a stellar write-up of chef Joey Macadangdang’s newest restaurant in the Fairway Shops. And take your family for a walk on the wild side with a trip to the Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center in Whalers Village. As always, we have our long-standing guest favorites, such as the Hyatt Regency Maui’s interactive chef experiences, The Westin Maui’s ceremonial torch lighting and blowing of the pū (conch shell), and the Sheraton Maui’s cliff-dive experience, as well as lū‘au, shopping, golf, tennis and plenty of ocean adventures. Check with your concierge for the most current hours and days of operation. We sincerely hope you enjoy this issue of Kā‘anapali Magazine; feel free to take it home as a souvenir of your stay. With aloha in our hearts, we welcome you to Maui!

Archived issues of Kā‘anapali Magazine are available online at MauiMagazine.net/ Kaanapali.

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Tetsuji Yamazaki President, Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Mahalo,

ufo parasail and adventures

KAPALUA 4.7 MI Honoapi‘ilani Highway

Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas

Keka‘a Drive

Royal Lahaina Resort

Maui Eldorado Kaanapali

Kā‘anapali Parkway

V Aqualani Beach & Ocean Recreation Locations Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa The Westin Maui Resort & Spa

E Beachwalk

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa

U NORTH

Resort Map Hotels & Condos

Spas & Salons

A. Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas B. Royal Lahaina Resort C. Maui Eldorado Kaanapali by Outrigger D. Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa E. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel F. Aston at The Whaler on Kā‘anapali Beach G. The Westin Maui Resort & Spa H. Kaanapali Alii Resort I. Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club J. Hyatt Residence Club, Kā‘anapali Beach K. Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa L. Kā‘anapali Royal

Alana Spa (B) Alii Spa (H) Beauty of Aloha Spa & Salon (E) Heavenly Spa by Westin* (G) Kamaha‘o, a Marilyn Monroe Spa* (K) The Spa at Black Rock* (D) Spa Maui & Massage (O) Spa by the Sea (I) Spa Breathe Maui (A)

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* Full spa (wet & dry therapies)

Dining A. Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas Castaway Café B. Royal Lahaina Resort Royal Ocean Terrace Royal Scoop D. Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Black Rock Shave Ice Cliff Dive Grill

Coral Reef Hank’s Haute Dogs Mai Tai Bar Teppan-Yaki Dan The Sandbar Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Hele On Huihui Keao Welowelo The Westin Maui Resort & Spa Hale ‘Ā Hale Mo‘olelo Mahele Market & Eatery Starbucks Waicoco Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club Beach Walk Kau Kau To Go Longhi’s Restaurant Makai Tiki Bar Starbucks Hyatt Residence Club Lahaina Provision Company Pau Huaka‘i Tiki Bar Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Grotto Bar

Honolulu Coffee Company Japengo Swan Court Breakfast/ Son’z Steakhouse Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice ‘Ūmalu M. Roy’s Kā‘anapali N. Whalers Village Choice Health Bar Da Nani Pirates Häagen-Dazs Hula Grill & Barefoot Bar Island Vintage Coffee Joey’s Kitchen Leilani’s on the Beach Maui Poke Monkeypod Kitchen Nikki’s Pizza Ono Gelato Company Whalers Village Food Court O. Fairway Shops China Bowl Asian Cuisine Island Press Coffee Macadangdang Round Table Pizza

LAHAINA 3 MI Honoapi‘ilani Highway

Kā‘anapali Royal

rive aD ka‘ Ke

K Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa

y wa ark P ali Kā‘anap

Aston at The Whaler

The Westin Maui Resort & Spa

Kaanapali Alii Resort

Hyatt Residence Club, Kā‘anapali Beach

rive Kai D a e h No

Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club

Beachwalk

Activities

Shopping

Public Parking

Medical Services

Your concierge will be happy to provide a full list of resortwide attractions. Here’s a sample:

N. Whalers Village Shopping Center

Beach Access

Kā‘anapali Trolley

Aqualani Beach & Ocean Recreation (V) Hale Huaka‘i Ocean Activity Center (E) Island Style Adventures (F) Kā‘anapali Golf Courses Clubhouse (M) Ka‘anapali Surf Club (U) Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch (T) Skyline Hawai‘i Zipline & Eco-Adventures (P) Sunset Cliff Dive Ceremony (Q) Teralani Sailing Adventures (R) UFO Parasail (S)

Lū‘au Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au (K) Maui Nui Lū‘au at Black Rock (D) The Myths of Maui Lū‘au (B) Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au (G)

Apparel, dining, jewelry, sundries, gifts, art, specialty services, real estate

O. Fairway Shops at Kā‘anapali Dining, sundries, services, salons, spas

Royal Trading Company (B) The Shops at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa (K) Shops at The Westin Maui Resort & Spa (G)

DISTANCES Hyatt to Golf Course................................... 0.5 Mile Hyatt to Whalers Village............................ 0.5 Mile Hyatt to Sheraton........................................ 1 Mile Sheraton to Golf Course............................ 1 Mile

Kā‘anapali Trolley: 808-667-0648 Kā‘anapali area only. Travel complimentary among Kā‘anapali hotels, golf courses, Whalers Village Shopping Center and Fairway Shops. ADA lifts. Runs from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. kaanapalitrolley.info

Maui Public Bus Transit (Roberts Hawai‘i): 808-871-4838 Depart from Whalers Village Shopping Center in Kā‘anapali and take a ride to Kapalua Resorts, Lahaina Cannery Mall, Wharf Cinema Center in Lahaina, or Walmart in Kahului.

Hyatt to Royal Lahaina............................... 1.5 Miles Royal Lahaina to Golf Course................... 1.5 Miles Kā‘anapali to Lahaina (Banyan Tree)...... 3 Miles Kā‘anapali to Kapalua Airport.................. 3.5 Miles Kā‘anapali to Kahului Airport.................... 26 Miles

Summer–Fall 2022 17

Nīele | People

Star Man Story by Rick Chatenever

nebulae and galaxies, while Mahoney connects the dots of constellations with an endless supply of knowledge, curiosity, humor and enthusiasm. It’s not rocket science ... but it does add another dimension to the hospitality industry. Tours are open to the public as well as to resort guests, and a typical audience ranges from tiny kids who stand on chairs to peer into the eyepieces, to their parents and grandparents. The Monday 11 p.m. tour is reserved for astrophotography, so bring your camera and catch a star! Reservations are required, so call 808.667.4727, or email eddie.mahoney@hyatt.com to secure your spot among the stars.

COURTESY OF HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA

Eddie Mahoney takes the stairway to heaven to work every night. Mahoney has been the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa’s director of astronomy for more than 20 years. When darkness falls, he rides the elevator to the ninth floor, then climbs the staircase to the roof. At the end of a long walkway, past a state-of-the-art solar-panel array, he conducts an hourly “Tour of the Stars” each night between 8 and 11 p.m. “It’s a lighthearted classroom,” he says of his observatory workplace. Equipment includes three telescopes of 500, 600 and 800 magnification, to transport viewers into the middle of those millions of stars in the Milky Way overhead. Housed in a structure that electrically slides out of the way to reveal the sky, the telescopes are programmed to find tens of thousands of known objects in the heavens. The inky dome becomes a stage, and those twinkling pinpricks become characters in ancient myths from Hawai‘i and other cultures around the planet. The myths are easier to grasp than astronomy’s billions and billions of details, and Mahoney makes every tour lively and fun.

When Mahoney was a boy, his father took him outside one night to see the world’s first manmade satellite, Russia’s Sputnik, pass overhead. “That’s history,” his father told him as the tiny point of light that was Sputnik moved steadily across the sky. The seven-year-old was hooked, and for Christmas his father got him a spotting scope off of an army tank. Its magnification was only about 10, and it was heavy enough to drive nails, but it worked. With master’s degrees in science and education, Mahoney isn’t an astronomer in the strictest sense. But he has been named a Solar System Ambassador by the Jet Propulsion Lab in Pasadena, and was given the title Hōkū Kane (Star Man) by Nainoa Thompson, the iconic celestial navigator of Hawai‘i’s globe-circling voyaging canoe Hōkūle‘a. A typical Tour of the Stars includes viewing any visible planets, the moon, and the brightest stars,

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Living Aloha Story by Diane Woodburn

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“There is hospitality, and there is Hawaiian hospitality,” says Patrick Alexander, the new director of operations for Aqualani Beach and Ocean Recreation. “The difference is really understanding the spirit of aloha, knowing how to welcome people and treat them like ‘ohana [family].” And Alexander should know. He can trace his Hawaiian genealogy to the time before western contact, and his remaining roots date back to the early 1800s. His great-great-grandfather, a missionary to Maui, was the second-ever principal at Lahainaluna High School in Lahaina, the oldest high school west of the Rockies. And his greatgreat-uncle was Samuel Thomas Alexander, the famous Hawaiian businessman who, in partnership with Henry Perrine Baldwin, established Alexander & Baldwin, one of Hawai‘i’s major corporations that still exists today. “Family is everything to me, and that’s why I love working in this industry, and in particular, for this company,” he says. “We understand the Hawaiian concept of ‘ohana, and it comes through in how we treat our guests. That’s what I strive to encourage and embrace every day.” Born and raised in Hawai‘i, Alexander attended the Kamehameha Schools, and then left the Islands to pursue his MBA. He graduated with honors from Louisana State University and worked for a short time in corporate America, but soon followed his family’s entrepreneurial spirit and opened his own tour company on Catalina Island in California. However, he still felt a strong pull from across the Pacific, so in 2017, Alexander returned to Maui. “I knew I wanted to continue my career in tourism, but I had no job lined up,” he says. “I started at the bottom, learning the ropes at a resort in Kā‘anapali, then moved up the ladder and here I am today.” As the director of operations for Aqualani, Alexander feels it’s important to connect with his employees. “I like to get outside and work alongside people to learn what is needed,” he says. “For example, I’ll hand out towels to guests from the kiosk, and experience what it’s like to wear [uniform] pants in the full sun. I try to create a good company culture. As an employer, your associates should want to work with you.” Alexander also appreciates the strong ties Aqualani has with the community. “Our owner, Mike Kelley, is great mentor who built this business from the ground up,” he says. “I respect that. Managing a business today is a challenge, and I like to meet that kind of challenge with the customer in mind.” Whether he’s assisting a guest or leading his team, Alexander does so with aloha. “It’s about welcoming, sharing and being together,” he says. “You don’t have be from here to experience that. Just join us — we’ll treat you like family!”

RYAN SIPHERS

Nīele | Leadership

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From Tahiti, Mo‘orea, Raiatea, Bora Bora and other islands, Polynesians spread across the Pacific to far-flung Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Hawai‘i, and Aotearoa (New Zealand) — islands that now frame the Polynesian Triangle. For these confident and supremely skilled wayfarers, the ocean did not divide, but connect, and the stars were ever overhead to guide them.

MICRONESIA

WayFinders

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NAVIGATING EARTH’S LARGEST OCEAN BY STARS, SEABIRDS, AND SWELLS

H AWA I ‘ I

Story by Judy Edwards Photography by Douglas Peebles

SAMOA

TA H I T I TO N G A

R A PA N U I

NEW ZEALAND

Summer–Fall 2022 23

Thousands of years before Europeans began their first

tentative ventures beyond coastal waters, Polynesians were exploring the vast Pacific. They settled the islands of Tonga, Fiji and Samoa, and along the way, engineered some of the finest open-ocean sailing vessels ever seen. Aboard double-hulled voyaging canoes, Polynesians arrived in Hawai‘i, becoming farmers and fishers, warriors and kings — a people descended from what Hawaiian son and president of the Polynesian Voyaging Society Nainoa Thompson called “the astronauts of our ancestors, the greatest explorers on the face of the Earth.” Unlike the single-hulled ships of Europe, the Polynesian double-hulled canoe was light and fast. It ranged in length from 50 to 100 feet, with twin hulls that were each carefully hollowed and shaped from a single log, and connected by a deck with one or more masts for the sails. People and provisions could be sheltered in the hulls for long journeys. Food swam all around in the sea, and the weather, if benevolent, added to water stores. These explorers had no tools for wayfinding except their minds — no sextant or magnetic compass, no GPS. Instead, they watched celestial bodies in the night sky, listened to the winds, felt the swells slap against and move underneath the wooden hulls. The flight of seabirds, behavior of clouds, patterns in the air informed

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Nā Leo

Haka

Nā Leo

ĀKAU NORTH

Nālani

Nālani Manu

Manu N HO O ’O RT L HW UA ES T

‘Āina

U T LA S ‘ O HE A KO RT O N

Noio

Noio ‘Āina Lā

Lā HIKINA EAST

KOMOHANA WEST Lā

Lā

M SO A UT L A HE NA AS I T

‘Āina Noio

T A N ES KO HW UT

their sense of where land might be. They lived off the ocean the way farmers live off the land, in tune with everything around them, embedded in the pulse of the sea and the sky — a sky that, at night, gave them the star compass. When we interviewed him back in 2014, the late Chad Kālepa Baybayan, former navigator-in-residence at the ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center, part of the University of Hawai‘i at Hilo, said: “The tradition of the oceanic star compass extends from Micronesia to Saudi Arabia, between the same [tropical] latitudes. No telling if it’s one system that diffused [throughout the South Pacific] or if everyone figured it out on their own, but the use of the same stars makes me think the former.” The colonization of the Pacific in the 1700s by Europeans in their single-hulled ships was so swift and total that the art and science of traditional Polynesian migration were obliterated in the Polynesian Triangle — that vast area bounded by Rapa Nui (Easter Island) in the east, Hawai‘i in the north, and Aotearoa (New Zealand) in the south — within just a few generations. The decline was so dramatic that theorists began to deny that deliberate Pacific navigation by the ancients had ever been possible. In the 1970s, in response to theories that the Pacific Islands had been settled by accident or a stroke of luck, the Polynesian Voyaging Society of Hawai‘i built a 60-foot voyaging canoe from a hybrid of natural and modern materials. They named the vessel Hōkūle‘a, which means “Star of Gladness,” a reference to Arcturus, the brightest star in the Northern Hemisphere and the guiding star for Hawaiian navigators. With the help of one of the last traditional Polynesian navigators in the world, a man from Satawal named Mau Piailug, they sailed Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti and back in triumph in 1976. Four years later, mentored by Piailug, the Society did it again, and this time Baybayan was aboard. “When I sailed in 1980 it was like stepping back in a time machine,” he recalled. “The black silhouette of a crab-claw sail against the starry backdrop ... at that moment you are as close to your ancestors as possible — the same stars, same shape of the sails, the rise and fall of the canoe, the wind in your face, the chill of the night air. It is incredibly romantic and dynamic, metaphorical and poetic. “You always sense that there’s a presence out there with you; at least I do, and I live and work in the shadow of my ancestors. But I’m not focused on it. I’m very attentive to the situation at hand, and I make decisions based upon my instinct. Experience becomes memory and memory becomes instinct.” Between 1985 and 1987, the Society sailed Hōkūle‘a surely and steadily around the islands of the Pacific and back to Hawai‘i, putting to rest finally and forever the idea that the movement of Polynesians around the Pacific was anything less than masterful and deliberate. In so doing, they resurrected a dormant and wounded Hawaiian pride, and brought about a cultural renaissance that continues to flower in every corner of the Polynesian Triangle. “Western mariners use the magnetic compass to set direction,” said Baybayan. “The needle identifies magnetic north. We use the rising and setting of celestial bodies, and then the direction of the waves and the wind to help orient the compass. The winds are changeable, but they shift gradually. [During journeys], we divide the days into sunrise and sunset. At sunrise we have a navigation meeting, assess our position and compare that to the last 12 hours, and add

Manu

‘Āina Noio

Manu HEMA SOUTH

Nālani Nā Leo

Haka

Nālani Haka

Nā Leo

Star Compass The star compass that Polynesians used to traverse the vast Pacific divides the horizon into four houses aligned with the cardinal directions: hikina (east), komohana (west), ‘ākau (north) and hema (south). Each house is subdivided into eight sections, creating a compass with 32 divisions in all. “The compass focuses on the rising and setting points of the sun,” said Chad Kālepa Baybayan, former navigator in residence at Hilo’s ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center. “Everything arrives on one horizon — east — crests overhead, and sets in the west.” Once the navigator aligns the compass, for example with the setting sun, the stars rise and set in parallel overhead. A star that rises one house to the north of hikina will arc overhead and set one house to the north of komohana. As stars rise throughout the night, they are fixed in relation to one of the compass’s houses or points. In this way, the navigator sets a track as accurate as can be. Baybayan practiced indigenous navigation for more than 30 years. For him, the star compass was not an external apparatus, but an internalized environment that extended in every direction to the horizon and up to the zenith, with the canoe — and himself — in the middle. “Nainoa [Thompson] taught me this metaphor of the bird and the canoe,” said Baybayan. “He cut out a paper canoe and a bird, put the bird on the table and spun it around. Birds are never lost at sea; they have an internal compass. If the head of the bird points in one direction, the tail [points to] the opposite. The bird doesn’t have to see what’s in front of him if he knows what’s behind him. Nainoa put the canoe on the table and said, The canoe and the bird are the same thing.”

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Hōkūle‘a has voyaged traditionally since 1976, sailing more than 150,ooo nautical miles throughout the Pacific. that to the past days. Throughout the day you’re watching the speed of the canoe and plotting position. At night you use the stars to reconfirm or update your position. “[At sea], it’s eating/sleeping/working in four-hour shifts. It can be very romantic at night under the stars. Exhausting, too. In the tropics, you have to keep fighting the squalls; you have to shut down the sails, then open them back up and reset them, and then the next squall comes.” Thompson was the first contemporary Hawaiian to master the Polynesian art of navigation, but schooled himself in Western academics before learning from Piailug. Only when he was anchored in the hard sciences did Thompson shift his attention to absorbing the more subtle but powerful older ways of navigating. “Nainoa created his own field in navigation,” said Baybayan. “One of his greatest skills is meteorology. Weather is what drives the canoe.” According to Baybayan, this hybrid approach is now the way young navigators train. “It’s still an indigenous art, but there’s a lot of [western] science involved in it now. There’s a constant jumping between the two worlds, the scientific and the cultural.” “A culture reemerging is not a common story around the world,” notes Thompson. “There are cultures and languages being lost every day across this planet.” By 2013, Hōkūle‘a had sailed 135,000 nautical miles, restitching the fragments of Polynesia. On May 17 of that year, the Polynesian Voyaging Society officially launched the canoe on an unprecedented voyage around the world.

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Named Mālama Honua, “To Care for Our Earth,” this journey carried Hōkūle‘a and her companion vessel Hikianalia some 46,000 miles, with visits to 21 countries and 150 ports. The message of this voyage? Peace and sustainability — and the hope that ancient wisdom would inspire modern solutions to the challenges of surviving on an increasingly stressed planet. “If you come from the lens of what the canoe is supposed to do, it will do nothing if tied to the dock,” says Thompson. “We are not going to change the world, but we are going to build a network of people who are gonna change the world — and our job is to make sure they’re successful.” June 2017 marked the historic homecoming of the ships to Hawai‘i, thus ending the global portion of the adventure. But Hōkūle‘a and Hikianalia continued to sail around the Hawaiian Islands for another year to reconnect with local communities and schools, and to share the stories they learned during their worldwide voyage. Baybayan was one of the navigators who helped guide Hōkūle‘a on its voyages. “In the ’70s, there was so much stuff we had to learn,” he said. “We had to learn how to sail, and then learn how to navigate. No time to learn protocol. We were just trying to stay afloat. As we got more proficient we got more profound, and thought, Who do we serve? Then the question became, What’s the canoe? Well, it’s the Earth, an island floating in a sea of space. “I hope that the tradition is maintained,” he added. “It ties us back to this ancient tradition of going to sea. You can do all the coursework for understanding the art of it, you can work it out in the classroom, but the process for learning is out on the ocean. At the end of the learning time, people are changed.” 

LEFT: KAIMANA BARCARSE / RIGHT: STEVE THOMAS, TRADITIONAL MICRONESIAN NAVIGATION COLLECTION, UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI‘I–MĀNOA LIBRARY

From left: Chad Baybayan aboard the Hōkūle‘a in 2005, during a journey to the Northwest Hawaiian Islands of Nihoa and Mokumanamana. Seen here in Satawal in 1983, Mau Piailug uses a star compass to teach celestial navigation to his son. The Micronesian master is credited with restoring what had become a lost art among Hawaiians.

A Constellation, A Gathering, A Mixture - All Things Huihui

Navigate your dining experience... | (808) 667-0124 | huihuirestaurant.com

Kā‘anapali Cruising Enjoy over-the-top adventure while exploring under the sea. Story by Kyle Ellison

The six-year-old boy spoke for us all as a pod of Hawaiian spinner dolphins frolicked directly in front of our catamaran, cruising through the water like sleek, gray torpedoes, spinning, flipping and splashing down into the sapphire sea. The group numbers 20, then 30, then 40 — until it’s beautifully apparent that 100 or more dolphins have surrounded our boat. So far, turtles, whales, flying fish and now dolphins have joined our sail — and we haven’t even finished our breakfast burritos. It is going to be an epic day with Teralani Sailing Adventures. A Kā‘anapali staple for more than 25 years, Teralani Sailing Adventures operates a fleet of luxurious catamarans. They offer year-round sailing and snorkeling fun right off Kā‘anapali Beach and are easily located within walking distance of most Kā‘anapali resort hotels. They 28 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Teralani’s fleet of comfortable catamarans has been cruising West Maui for more than 25 years.

RYAN SIPHERS

“Dad! Dad! I can’t believe this! I seriously feel like I’m dreaming!”

Above: The wide stairway off the bow of the Teralani 5 makes entering the ocean a breeze.

KYLE ELLISON

A school of manini (convict tang) nibbles algae off the coral beneath the boat.

recently added two brand new boats to their flotilla, including our current vessel, the Teralani 5, whose polished railings and scuff-free decks impart the feeling of a manicured yacht. The spacious outside seating affords the perfect vantage point to spot marine life as we motor up Maui’s west coast to Honolua Bay. The spray from whitecaps breaking on the bow mirrors the wispy clouds above. We’re about a mile offshore and can easily make out the deep, V-shaped valleys that cut through West Maui’s mountain, and the forested ridgeline reaching for the heavens. In the distance, Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i seem to hover just above the water.

An hour or so later we reach Honolua Bay, a Marine Life Conservation District with some of Maui’s best snorkeling. This protected cove is an iconic Island treasure, and our captain moors our boat just off a reef teeming with turtles, coral, fish — and a rare surprise: As I gear up with the snorkeling kit provided by Teralani, a Hawaiian monk seal — Hawai‘i’s highly endangered state mammal — periscopes up in front of the boat, and then dives back under the water. Rather than climbing down the ladder, I opt for the “express lane,” and simply jump off the back of the boat in pursuit of the seal. There are more critters flitting across the reef than I’ve seen in years. Summer–Fall 2022 29

Above: A beautiful honu (Hawaiian green sea turtle) surfaces for air before diving back down to rest in an undersea cave. Below: Hawaiian spinner dolphins are a common sight when you’re cruising the Kā‘anapali coastline.

I reboard the Teralani 5 and find that the crew has fired up the grill. I plate up some food, grab a seat at one of the tables and gaze out at the view — one which is unmatched, even at the island’s best restaurants. My lunch — a freshly grilled burger, chips and a cold drink — hits just the right spot. Slack-key music chimes over the speakers, and just when I think things could never be better, the monk seal reappears some 20 feet off our stern. It peeks out and glances around, like a toddler playing hide and seek. I quickly abandon my burger, gear back up and dive in. I search for about 15 minutes, but the seal is nowhere to be seen. Just as I start to lose hope, I snorkel over a cleft in the reef and there

BLAIR BIGHAM, ISLAND DREAM PRODUCTIONS

I’m greeted by a school of weke (goatfish) hanging out under the hull, and when submerged, I can hear the high-pitched songs of the humpback whales in the distance. Nūnū (trumpetfish) cruise the shallows, and a lone honu (Hawaiian green sea turtle) inhabits a nook between coral heads. I see a massive school of akule (bigeye scad) about 10 feet under the surface, coming toward me. I take a deep breath, dive down and am engulfed by the shiny, silver swarm. After the akule pass through, I mingle with manini (convict tang) and watch uku (gray snapper) prowl for lunch. My own stomach growls in accordance, so I swim back to the boat in search of sustenance.

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BLAIR BIGHAM, ISLAND DREAM PRODUCTIONS

JUST AS I START TO LOSE HOPE, I SNORKEL OVER A CLEFT IN THE REEF AND THERE’S THE SEAL, STARING ME RIGHT IN THE FACE.

Above: A school of kīkākapu (raccoon butterflyfish) parades across a reef. Below: Rare sightings, such as this endangered monk seal, are possible on any given day; we are only temporary visitors in this underwater world.

it is, staring me right in the face. Inquisitive and playful, it circles a few coral heads before charting its own solo course to the north — a fleeting visitor in a wide-open sea whom I am unlikely to meet again. Time seems suspended as I reboard boat — I am still processing the singular seal encounter — and I hand my gear to the ever-diligent Teralani crew. It’s time to return to shore, and they hoist up the ladder, cast off the bowlines and set a course downwind toward Kā‘anapali Beach. The Pailolo Channel that stretches between Maui and Moloka‘i offers some of the Island’s most consistent winds. The crew hoists the mainsail and rolls out the jib to harness the breeze at our stern. Soon we are moving along at a clip of about 10 knots. We sip draft beers and freshly made cocktails and kick back as the waves clap rhythmically on the hull. As the tropical sun massages my shoulders, I reflect on the incredible day. Much in the same way, and with the same exuberance as that little boy expressed this morning, I want to exclaim, It seriously feels like I’m dreaming! q Teralani Sailing Adventures | 808.661.7245 | teralani.net | IG/FB @teralanisailing Summer–Fall 2022 31

It takes a lot of aloha to measure up to your expectations. How do we do it? Let us count the ways! Compiled by Kyle Ellison

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FLIP NICKLIN/MINDEN PICTURES

KĀ‘ANAPALI BY

10,000– 12,000

African black-footed penguins at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Source: J/PR Public Relations

Humpback whales that visit Maui’s waters each year

COURTESY OF HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA

Source: Whale Trust

THE Numbers 57

Dining spots within Kā‘anapali Beach Resort (40 restaurants, six coffee shops, seven markets and four lū‘au) Source: Compiler counted

Summer–Fall 2022 33

331

Hammocks along Kā‘anapali Beach

Source: Compiler counted

Lei given/received during the Westin’s Longest Lei Exchange Source: Sumithra Balraj, Public Relations Director, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa

25,000–30,000 Source: Katelyn Mayer, Public Relations Director, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa

0 0 2

Servings per pig at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa’s Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au Source: Cinch PR & Branding Group

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TOP: JOHN GIORDANI / LEFT: COURTESY OF SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA

Plastic straws saved from the landfill every month by Sheraton’s switch to paper straws

TOP: COURTESY OF HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA / RIGHT: COURTESY OF KAANAPALI ALII

1,998 Condo units with full kitchens Source: Queries to each property

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0 5 6,3 Feet you’ll fly during Skyline Hawai‘i’s eco-adventure zipline tour

SKYLINE HAWAI‘I

Source: Tom Kratsch, President & CEO, TRK Creative Group

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Steps from Kā‘anapali Beach to the Barefoot Bar at Hula Grill

TOP: HULA GRILL / RIGHT: KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSES / BOTTOM: CESERE BROTHERS

Source: Compiler’s measurement (shoe size 12)

Source: Sutee Nitakorn, Director of Golf, Kā‘anapali Golf Courses

50,000

Golf balls fished out of Kā‘anapali Golf Courses’ water hazards each year

Letters in the name of Hawai‘i’s state fish: humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a Including the ‘okina, or glottal stop, between the two a’s

Summer–Fall 2022 37

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15,840 Linear feet of sandy coastline along the resort (includes Pu‘u Keka‘a, aka Black Rock)

JOHN GIORDANI

Source: Compiler’s research

Summer–Fall 2022 39

Getting A two-story mural by renowned nature artist Patrick Ching heralds the way to the Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center.

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Wild A visit to the Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center Story by Lara McGlashan Pull up a beanbag and let nature engulf you in the Discovery Experience room. Inset: Come on in and take a walk on the wild side!

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE HAWAI‘I WILDLIFE DISCOVERY CENTER

Below: The center has more than 30 exhibits about sea life, conservation and culture, including interactive games for kids of all ages.

It’s Mother’s Day, and my son, Alex, and I decide to venture from Kīhei to the west side to check out the new Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center at Whalers Village. The center opened in October of 2021 and I had heard good things, but had not yet had a chance to check it out. Today is the day. We arrive at Whalers just as the world is waking up. We park and wander around the mall for a while, then Alex has me time him as he climbs to the top of the play structure on the first floor (27 seconds). I haven’t yet seen a sign for the center, so I ask a halfsleeping guy behind the tour kiosk for directions. He gestures vaguely to a spot behind me and I turn to see a bridge spanning the gap between a stairwell and a third-floor storefront. Along the bottom of the bridge is a modest sign advertising the center. We head up and Hannah Bernard, executive director of Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund, opens the door herself. We are the first visitors of the day! She is all smiles as she welcomes us and shows us around the 5,000-square-foot space. “We have more than 30 exhibits about sea life, Hawaiian culture and conservation,” she says as we walk into the first room. Summer–Fall 2022 41

Clockwise from top: Local filmmakers created 45 unique videos about Maui to play on the large screen in the main exhibit hall. Whaling voyages often took as long as five years to complete; to occupy their time, sailors made scrimshaw by carving the bones and teeth of the whales they had caught, creating intricate images of nature, people, boats and the ocean. A 20-foot ship replica sails through the exhibit about Maui’s whaling past.

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Maui’s top models: humback whale and orca calves glide across the wall.

Top: Legacy replicas of orca and humpback whale calves came from Hale Koholā (House of the Whale), the museum that previously occupied the space. Above (L–R): A peek into the Discovery Experience room reveals an immersive film projected from floor to ceiling. The community room features a touch-screen exhibit with films about Maui’s wildlife and those working to protect it. The Kid’s Zone has puzzles and art materials for keiki of all ages — and a squishy blue-goo floor.

Alex beelines to a smaller room filled with beanbag chairs and I follow. “That’s our Discovery Experience room,” says Bernard. “The film playing is on a six-minute loop so you can enter any time and stay as long as you like.” I settle into a beanbag next to Alex and am immediately surrounded by the deep blue water of the Pacific; a humpback whale swims slowly across three walls of the room and out of sight. We watch honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) hatchlings flip and flop toward the sea, and spinner dolphins seem to smile as they frolic in the waves. We sit through the film twice, then Alex bolts up and zips into the next room. (Ah, the energy of a nine-year-old.) He stops at a kiosk with a a video screen and opens a game about bird identification. To the right, a film plays on an 82-inch screen. I sit down to watch and Bernard rejoins us. “We have 45 videos about Maui created by local filmmakers,” says Ber-

nard. “They cover all kinds of topics, including Hawaiian culture and disentangling whales.” Speaking of whales, a little further on we come to an exhibit about Hawai‘i’s whaling past. The 20-foot ship replica is so accurately detailed it looks as if it sailed right out of the 1800s! And though I’m loathe to admit it, I’m impressed with the artistry of the scrimshaw collection. Just adjacent is the Kid’s Zone, a space chock-full of tables, art materials, books and bins. “Here, kids can learn about the danger of plastics and pollution, and can make art using debris found on the beach and in the ocean,” explains Bernard. We step into the room and, to Alex’s utter delight, the floor tiles are filled with blue goo that squishes and moves around as he steps on them, which he does, dozens of times. Summer–Fall 2022 43

Alex wants to FaceTime Grandma, a former science teacher, to show her the center. He takes my phone and runs back to the Discovery Experience room so she can see turtles hatching from her living room in Connecticut. Bernard and I continue around the corner and stop in an area filled with “awareness art,” works that use found materials such as plastic, nets, buoys, ropes and more. On one wall, a large piece crafted of plastic containers creates an outline of a shark; each container has a large, jagged bite mark or ragged hole. “This is by local artist Tara Branham and is part of her ‘Sharkastics’ series,” says Bernard. “All of these plastics were bitten or swallowed by sharks.” On another wall a sign queries, “Is This Yours?” Underneath are shelves of plastic toys, action figures, golf balls, toothbrushes and bottlecaps — all items that were found during local beach cleanups. Alex whirls by, pausing briefly to look at the toys in the “Is This Yours?” display. He decides that nothing is actually his, then hands me the phone and runs into the gift shop. The store is filled with logo wear, jewelry, photographs, paintings, books and art. “The items for sale in the shop are made locally, and a portion of the proceeds helps support the center’s conservation and education programs,” says Bernard. This fact makes me feel better as Alex dumps two stuffies in my arms that he “absolutely needs” — a tiny plush dolphin and a remarkably realistic octopus. Alex swings his bag of new friends happily and I thank Bernard for the experience and the personalized tour. We stroll back to the parking lot, pausing once again so I can time the kiddo as he climbs to the top of the play structure (29 seconds; he was weighed down by the stuffies), and then head home. q

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Top: “Is It Yours?” an art installation by Tara Branham and Cheryl King, features plastic items found on Maui’s beaches as its medium. Above: Another mural by Ching leads the way to the HWDC gift shop. A portion of the shop’s proceeds helps fund the center’s conservation and education programs. Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali | hawaiiwildlifediscoverycenter.org | IG/FB @hawaiiwildlifediscoverycenter

A new luxury experience in Ka’anapali. Just steps from the stunning Pacific Ocean, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Kaʻanapali has redefined the luxury getaway. The newly-transformed, beachfront resort oﬀers guests an incomparable experience rooted in nurturing wellness, the sharing of Hawaiian wisdom and a real-world immersion into nature. The centerpiece of the property’s $120 million transformation is the 217-room Hōkūpaʻa Tower. www.hokupaamaui.com

Seared kiawe-smoked Moloka‘i venison cradled in a handwoven ti-leaf boat is finished with fresh lemon juice and a splash of soy sauce.* Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Calamansi lime and li hing mui powder give this margarita a sweet ‘n’ sour smoky punch. Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock) juts out into the sea with Moloka‘i as a backdrop. Huihui’s chocolate truffle cake is a work of edible art. Skillfully tied rigging ropes pay homage to ancient seafaring Hawaiians who challenged the elements in their outrigger canoes. *Because chef Tom Muromoto uses only the freshest seasonal ingredients, menu items are subject to change.

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STAR POWER Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel’s stellar new restaurant Story by Becky Speere | Photography by Mieko Horikoshi

Summer–Fall 2022 47

Fresh kāhala (yellowtail) and ‘ahi with onions, capers and ogo (red seaweed) dressed in Muromoto’s famous ‘ōlena (turmeric) dressing is a dish to die for.

Hawai‘i’s mash-up of Hawaiian, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Portuguese, Puerto Rican and Filipino cuisines takes celestial center stage at Huihui, the newest dining venue at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel. Though the hotel’s footprint remains the same, the stars have realigned in the kitchen, thanks to executive chef Tom Muromoto. The silhouette of a two-masted sailboat glides in front of a dazzling orange sunset as it passes by Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel. “This feels like paradise,” whispers Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine publisher Diane Woodburn. Diane, my husband Chris and I are at KBH’s newest dining venue, Huihui. In Hawaiian, huihui means “constellation,” or “to join, intermingle” — and it’s a fitting name: Ancient voyagers used those clusters of stars to guide them across the vast Pacific to Hawai‘i, and this restaurant is the ideal spot to connect with friends and family over great food. The decor pays homage to those wayfinders of long ago: majestic support beams, windows etched with sail-like designs, and tiny, twinkling ceiling lights that look very much like the skies above. I open the cocktail menu and find it replete with local ingredients. Options such as fresh-pressed juices, Maui Bees honey and Ali‘i Kula lavender are proffered as mixers for Maui-sourced vodka, Big Island rum and Kīhei kombucha. For those of the beer ilk, the list includes selections from Koholā Brewery and Maui Brewing Company. We select a rainbow of beverages — one blue (The Navigator), one pink (Hibis Kiss), one orange (Liliko‘i Mojito) and one gold (Li Hing Margarita). The latter is topped with a coaster filled with burning wood shavings which give the drink a smoky overtone. We sip happily as Julie Yoneyama, the sales and marketing manager for Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, approaches our table. “I’m so happy to see you all,” she says. “Aren’t those cocktails wonderful? They’ve really stepped it up at the bar with fresh juices and exciting mixology. And chef Tom Muromoto has been tightening up [the recipes] in the kitchen, training his cooks and really nailing the flavors.” Moments later our appetizers arrive, and we see — and smell — first hand that chef Muromoto has indeed nailed it. Lobster dumplings dressed with delicate Southeast Asian lemongrass cream and a drizzle of chili oil are perfectly steamed. The kō‘ala (barbecue) sticky spareribs are fall-off-the-bone good, and we lick our fingers so as not to waste a single bit of the incredible banana-lime barbecue sauce. The wok-seared Maui venison with citrus-soy sauce is divinely smoky, and an ocean-blue ceramic platter filled with thin slices of kāhala (yellowtail) and ‘ahi (tuna) carpaccio topped with red ogo (seaweed), capers, olives and Muromoto’s signature turmeric dressing is a 48 Kā‘anapali Magazine

raw-fish eater’s dream come true. When we’re done with our first course, not a bite is left behind. Restaurant manager Madeline Rabago arrives at our table to introduce our entrees. “Here, we have fresh ‘ahi caught in Maui waters, the pua‘a (pork) shank simmered in miso-soy sauce, and our signature Seafood Huihui,” she says. I marvel at this last dish that features a galaxy of ingredients: fresh island ‘ahi, ula (lobster), scallops, ‘ōpae (Kaua‘i shrimp), zucchini, bok choy, wai niu (coconut milk), tomato broth and roasted kukui (candlenuts). “We also have the miso-peach-glazed grilled tofu salad with local island vegetables, and a New York sirloin steak cooked medium rare,” concludes Rabago. The perfectly prepared steak is topped with an umami chili-soy dressing and comes with my favorite sides: broccoli rabe and oven-roasted Moloka‘i sweet potatoes. Our main course is paired with a Whitehall Lane Tre Leoni Napa red wine and a Central Valley (Lodi) Michael David Petite Petit. We sip our wine between bites as we share our dishes with one another. “My favorite is the Seafood Huihui,” says Chris. “The tomato-fish broth combined with the coconut milk creates a great, full flavor, and the lobster, shrimp and scallops are perfectly cooked.” “The steak is absolutely grilled to perfection,” says Diane. “I’d come back for the steamed lobster dumplings,” I add. Our server clears our plates and we lean back in our seats, sated and smiling. The consensus is that we have absolutely no room left for dessert … or do we? “You have to try something,” urges Rabago when we tell her we’re full. “We have some really great desserts.” Moments later, our server delivers a banana bread and macadamia nut ice-cream sandwich; a rich, flourless chocolate cake; and a warm pineapple upside-down bread pudding. Suddenly, we have plenty of room in our bellies, and we devour the treats. “I knew you could do it,” says Rabago, laughing. As we sip coffee, we reminisce about the venue’s previous life as the Tiki Restaurant. The Tiki Bar — Maui’s first — was located beside the pool, and “Uncle” Dale Simonsen was a fixture behind the bar for 50-some years. He was an essential, foundational member of the staff who helped make KBH a destination hotel, and his aloha spirit was palpable, whether you were a new guest, a returning visitor or a local. There’s a Hawaiian saying, “You have to look back to move forward.” And though he has since retired, I realize the legacy of kindness and hospitality that Simonsen fostered still remains. Looking forward, I also realize that Huihui will succeed because it’s not just a restaurant; it’s a gathering place for everyone, no matter who you are or where you hail from, and will surely perpetuate KBH’s reputation as Hawai‘i’s “most Hawaiian hotel.” A hui hou kākou! Until we meet again! q Huihui, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali | 808.667.0124 | huihuirestaurant.com | IG/FB @huihuirestaurant

Clockwise, from top left: The Navigator cocktail is crafted with Maui gin, local honey, lemon juice, tonic water and a misting of Kula lavender essence. A picture-in-picture display: Herb Kāne’s painting of the Hōkūle‘a, Hawai‘i’s wa‘a kaulua (double-hulled sailing canoe), inset with a video monitor showing clips of its historic 1976 voyage to Tahiti. Pineapple upside-down bread pudding puts your mama’s to shame. Tropical cocktails complement every dish on the menu at Huihui. Fall-off-the-bone kō‘ala (barbecue) pork ribs with banana-lime sauce make a lasting impression. Summer–Fall 2022 49

Left: Tender hamachi (yellowtail) carpaccio is paired with the signature cocktail, the Dang-hammah-rita. Above: The dream team strikes a pose (L–R): Chris Kaiwi, Israel Valentine, chef Joey Macadangdang, Mika Embroden, Jackie Keefe, chef Jesse Sidney and chef Eima Yamada.

FILIPINO FUSION After three years of his fans’ anticipation, Joey Macadangdang — chef/owner of Joey’s Kitchen at Whalers Village and Napili Plaza — has opened his third restaurant, this one sporting his last name rather than his first. Chef Macadangdang and his wife, Juvi, renovated the space in the Fairway Shops from floor to ceiling, with plenty of help from their business partners, executive sous chef Jessie Sidney, and Eima Yamada, former sushi master at Kai Cafe in The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua. Together, they transformed the spot into a venue that’s classy yet comfortable, an ambiance that perfectly reflects its menu. It’s swelteringly hot in Kā‘anapali when we arrive, and we enter through a gate set inside a tall wooden wall separating the outdoor dining area from the sidewalk. The space is open and airy, with tables and banks of padded bench seating. We check in with the hostess and opt to sit indoors, where it’s cooler, and she settles us into a cozy nook. The wall behind us is covered with horizontal planks of warm-toned parota, a fast-growing sustainable wood, and hanging lanterns cast a soft light on our table, a nice contrast to the surrounding white walls and ceilings. We admire the bar area with its wraparound seating and tall, backlit shelves that hold distillates in every shade of gold, brown, green and red. In the kitchen, chef Sidney collects order tickets as they pour in, while line cooks saute and fin-

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ish dishes with precision. Chef Macadangdang oversees it all, smiling with pride. He spots us and comes to our table. There are warm greetings all around, then we comment on the efficient activity in the kitchen. “My team has been with me for quite a few years,” he says. “It’s hard to find quality cooks, so I feel very fortunate to have them.” “Why did you want to create a new venue?” I ask. Having one restaurant is challenging enough, but three? “I wanted a place where locals could celebrate special events, like birthdays and anniversaries and weddings,” he answers. “I also wanted to highlight my Filipino-fusion dishes.” Chef Macadangdang spent his childhood in the Philippines and moved to Maui with his family when he was in high school. In 1984 he began working in restaurants as a dishwasher, then set his sights on cooking. After two decades of honing his kitchen, management and culinary skills, chef Macadangdang opened his first restaurant, Joey’s Kitchen, in Whalers Village. He opened a second Joey’s location shortly thereafter in Nāpili, and now, this signature venue — his new pride and joy. I watch a server carry a rich green cocktail from the bar to a guest across the room. The crushed ice in the drink reminds me of the Filipino

COURTESY OF MACADANGDANG

Story by Becky Speere

TOP LEFT: BECKY SPEERE / ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF MACADANGDANG

Clockwise from above: The kinilaw made with kampachi (amberjack), coconut milk and avocado, is a work of art. A cooling Ube Colada is the perfect antidote for hot weather. The Wagyu beef slider topped with blue cheese is a gourmet game changer.

dessert halo halo, and the heat of the day makes me want one — badly. Chef Macadangdang follows my gaze and chuckles. “We also designed a cocktail venue to meet the needs of locals and visitors alike,” he says. “That’s one of our special drinks with a twist — the Matcha Mai Tai.” I order one and take a sip. The heady gin combined with the bitter matcha and fresh lime-flavored syrup immediately cools me down. “Our menu is heavy on seafood and pork dishes,” says chef Macadangdang. “But we also offer vegan dishes, such as cauliflower and eggplant with garlic-miso tahini.” And he enlisted chef Yamada to create a number of sushi dishes to round out the menu. By the time he completes his account, my mouth is watering, and we order a bevy of things to try. When they arrive, it’s a diner’s dream come true. Sisig, a pork entree, is garnished with chicharron gremolata to cut the richness, and the tako insasal (chargrilled octopus) is finished with fried garlic and achuete oil. Japanese imported Tai snapper, toro (fatty tuna) and ama ebi (sweet shrimp) from the sushi menu pair perfectly with sake cocktails and local craft beer. And the kinilaw, the Filipino version of ceviche, made with island-farmed kampachi (yellowtail), coconut milk, avocado and lime juice, arrives artfully presented in a long bamboo tube and is served with crunchy Okinawan sweet-potato chips. All those dishes are divine, but truth be told, it’s the juicy prime-beef sliders and the pinakuratcha chicken wings with marungay sauce that will have me coming back again and again (and again). Macadangdang, The Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali | 808.868.0929 | macadangdang.com | IG/FB @macadangdangmaui Summer–Fall 2022 51

Dining Guide RR Reservations recommended Average entree: $ under $15 $$ under $25 $$$ under $40 $$$$ $40+ The ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards celebrate the finest dining spots on Maui, as voted by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

BLACK ROCK SHAVE ICE Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 661-0031 Chill poolside with this local favorite. Choose up to three flavors, and consider an add-on, such as ice cream or toasted coconut. Open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Treats. $ CASTAWAY CAFÉ Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, 661-9091 This beachfront restaurant serves casual fare with a local twist, and offers an award-winning wine list and unparalleled ocean views. American. $$ CHINA BOWL ASIAN CUISINE Fairway Shops, 661-0660 Cantonese, Mandarin and Szechwan dishes, plus local favorites like saimin and kau yuk. Dine-in, takeout and delivery available. Kid-friendly. Chinese. $ CHOICE HEALTH BAR Whalers Village, 667-0585 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Healthy Fare (Gold, 2018, 2020; Silver 2019) Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls made with fresh, local ingredients. Daily specials and an epic entree with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in a red pepper and sesame sauce. American. $ CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 661-0031 Cozy up to the bar and enjoy chicken wings, burgers, sandwiches and tacos. An enticing dinner menu includes a huli huli chicken appetizer and an 8-ounce grilled ribeye steak. Sunset entertainment features a torchlighting ceremony followed by a cliff diver’s leap from Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock). American. $$

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CORAL REEF Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 661-0031 Start your day with the popular Nō Ka ‘Oi breakast buffet, or choose from the à la carte menu. At night, dine seaside and enjoy Pacific Rim cuisine made with locally grown ingredients. Pacific Rim. RR (dinner). $$$-$$$$ DA NANI PIRATES Whalers Village Tacos, fish and casual dining. Food truck. American. $-$$ DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC LŪ‘AU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 667-4727 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Lū‘au (Silver, 2017–2020) Celebrating 40 years in business, this immersive experience takes you on a journey through the Pacific. Enjoy a three-course plated dinner and open bar while delighting in the authentic chants, songs and dances of Polynesia. With brand-new costumes, a signature drum performance and a lei demonstration, this is a night to remember. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. RR. $$$$ FOOD COURT Whalers Village Refresh and recharge at this fast-food emporium featuring Joey’s Kitchen, Nikki’s Pizza and Maui Poke. Kid-friendly. Eclectic. $ HALE ‘Ā Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525 Hale ‘Ā means “house of sparkle,” and this sophisticated bar definitely dazzles. Located near the adults-only pool, this venue serves artisanal cocktails, wine and beer, as well as light fare, such as hummus, salads, tacos and treats. American. $-$$

HÄAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM SHOP Whalers Village, 667-5377 Indulge in irresistible ice cream, sorbet, a warm brownie sundae à la mode, or the signature Dazzler frozen dessert. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ HALE MO‘OLELO Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525 Hale is the Hawaiian word for house; mo‘olelo means story. Put them together and you have this openair gathering spot. Located beside the keiki (children’s) pool, this venue offers a stunning view of the ocean. Experience authentic Maui vibes, share laughs and enjoy great food. American. $-$$ HANK’S HAUTE DOGS Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 661-0031 Man bites dog! This oceanside takeaway venue offers gourmet hot dogs, snacks and nonalcoholic refreshments. American. $ HELE ON, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 661-0011 Stop by for coffee, baked goods, sandwiches, salads and to-go snacks. Also serving select beer, wine and cocktails. Coffee Shop/Grab ‘n’ Go. $ HONOLULU COFFEE CO. Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 661-1234 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Coffee Shop (Silver, 2019) Jump-start your day with a selection of coffees, freshly baked pastries, tropical-fruit smoothies and açai bowls. Coffee Shop. $ HUIHUI Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0124 Huihui means to mix and mingle, and this new eatery at

Maui’s “Most Hawaiian Hotel” fits the bill. The oceanfront restaurant offers indoor and outdoor seating, and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional/American. $-$$ HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 667-6636 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Shorts & Slippers Dining (Gold, 2017; Silver, 2018) Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar as you enjoy live entertainment and casual fare. The open-air dining room offers unobstructed views, and serves dishes such as fire-grilled ‘ahi steak. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. $$–$$$ ISLAND PRESS COFFEE Fairway Shops, 667-2003 Maui-grown coffee, breakfast, sandwiches, beer, wine and ice cream. Maui-made kombucha. Indoor/outdoor seating and free Wi-Fi. Coffee Shop. $ ISLAND VINTAGE COFFEE Whalers Village, 868-4081 Perk up with a cup of coffee, or choose from a hearty selection of açai bowls, sandwiches and salads. Coffee Shop. $ JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 667-4727 ‘Aipono Award winner for Restaurant of the Year (Gold, 2019), Best Pacific Rim Cuisine (Gold, 2017, 2020), Best Sushi (Gold, 2019; Silver, 2017-18, 2020) Best Asian Cuisine (Gold, 2017; Silver, 2018-19) World-class steak, seafood and creative cocktails combine Pacific Rim flavor with local ingredients.

Dine indoors, outdoors, or in the chic Sushi Lounge. Live music. Seasonal pairing dinners and special events. Sushi, Pacific Rim/ Asian. RR. $$$

Also, a fine selection of wine and fresh produce. Grab ‘n’ Go. $ LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH Whalers Village, 661-4495 Enjoy the view from the Beachside Grill while snacking on coconut shrimp, calamari, sashimi, burgers and fish tacos. Dine on the fire-grilled daily catch, herb-roasted jidori chicken and prime rib. Kid-friendly. Steak/ Seafood. RR. $$–$$$

JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village Food Court, 868-4474 ‘Aipono Award winner for Most “Maui-est” (Silver, 2020) Food-court fare gets a gourmet upgrade with dishes like braised short-rib pho atop housemade rice noodles, corn and sweet Filipino peppers in a rich gingerbeef broth. Asian Fusion. $

LONGHI’S Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-7733 Classic Italian fare with Pacific flair. Shrimp scampi, seared ‘ahi in caper-butter sauce, steaks, clams and fritto misto. End with a luscious pineapple upsidedown cake. Great wine list, too! Italian. $–$$$

KEAO, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 661-0011 This breakfast buffet curated by renowned chefs features traditional items and island specialties. Fresh omelets and pancakes made to order. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Kid-friendly. Breakfast. $-$$

MACADANGDANG Fairway Shops, 868-0929 Chef Joey Macadangdang, of Joey’s Kitchen fame, presents this elevated dining experience featuring Pacific Rim flavors worth exploring. Signature cocktails and bar service available. Pacific Rim. $-$$

LAHAINA PROVISION COMPANY Hyatt Residence Club Maui, 662-1000 Choose from fresh pastries, made-to-order sandwiches, salads and hot food.

MAHELE MARKET & EATERY Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525 Find fresh, locally sourced ingredients at this modern take on a local mom-and-pop shop. Scrumptious baked options for the whole ‘ohana (family). Getting an early start? They’re open from 6:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.! Deli. Grab ‘n’ Go. $ MAI TAI BAR Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 661-0031 This beachside location at the foot of Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock) offers poke bowls, sandwiches and salads from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Try a tropical cocktail, such as the Black Rock Mai Tai, made with a splash of aloha. American. $$ MAKAI TIKI BAR, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-1200 Located poolside, this bar and grill is just steps away from the beach. Enjoy Hawai‘i-inspired cocktails, fresh salads and deli sandwiches. American. $-$$ MAUI NUI LŪ‘AU AT BLACK ROCK Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 877-HULA This oceanfront all-you-

can-eat buffet features traditional island foods, such as slow-roasted kalua pork unearthed fresh from the imu (underground oven), as well as cultural arts and crafts and Polynesian entertainment. Kidfriendly. Lū‘au. RR. $$$$ MAUI POKE Whalers Village, 868-0814 Enjoy delicious Hawaiian cuisine and local favorites, including build-your-own poke bowls, musubi, sushi, nori tacos, salads and more. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options available. Sushi. Hawai‘i Regional. $–$$ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 878-6763 ‘Aipono Award winner for Restaurant of the Year (Gold, 2017), Best Business Lunch and Best Handcrafted Cocktails (Gold, 2020), Best Happy Hour (Gold, 2017, 2019-20; Silver, 2018), Best Bar and Best Vibe (Gold, 2019), Most “Maui-est” and Best Poke (Silver, 2019) Locally sourced ingredients shine at this Peter Merriman venue that dishes up pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. The best-selling

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DINNER 5-9pm LUNCH & HAPPY HOUR Wed.–Sat. 12–5pm Mon.–Tues. 3–5pm SUNDAY BRUNCH 10am–1pm 808-667-CIAO SUNDAY BAR 2–5pm (2426)

WWW.TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 Village Rd, Kapalua, Maui

Summer–Fall 2022 53

Maui’s Besint ing Oceanfront D

OPEN FOR DINING 9A-10P DAILY BRUNCH | LIVE MUSIC HAPPY HOUR | DINNER

Friday & Saturday Late Night Entertainment & Late Night Menu 1307 Front St | www.malatavern.com | (808) 667-9394

WANT MORE MAUI DINING OPTIONS?

Visit MauiMagazine.net/Dining for ‘Aipono Readers Choice Award Winners and more

Monkeypod Mai Tai is topped with honey-liliko‘i (passionfruit) foam. Hawai‘i Regional. $$

salads. Full menu and limited bar fare until 8 p.m. Daily happy-hour specials. American. $

THE MYTHS OF MAUI LŪ‘AU Royal Lahaina Resort, 201-5590 Indulge your senses at Maui’s longest-running oceanfront lū‘au. Feast on a traditional Hawaiianstyle buffet and enjoy the open bar while experiencing the tales of Hawai‘i, Tahiti and Samoa through music, song and dance. The evening culminates with a breathtaking fire dance. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. RR. $$$$

ROUND TABLE PIZZA Fairway Shops, 662-0777 Try local favorite Maui Zaui: ham, bacon, pineapple, Roma tomatoes, red and green onions and three cheeses atop Polynesian-style red sauce. Kid-friendly. American. $$

NIKKI’S PIZZA Whalers Village Food Court, 667-0333 Fuel your day with a loaded pizza, a hot meatball panini, pasta and gyros. Hearty breakfast served all day. Italian/Pizza/Deli. $–$$$ OHANA TACOS Whalers Village, 661-4567 Treat your ‘ohana (family) to burritos, bowls and tacos filled with carne asada, carnitas, al pastor, birria, chicken or fish. Salsa and guacamole made fresh daily. Mexican. $ ONO GELATO COMPANY Whalers Village, 868-2926 Open seven days a week, 365 days a year! Treats. $ PAU HUAKA‘I TIKI BAR Hyatt Residence Club Maui, 662-1000 Enjoy handcrafted cocktails, lemon-ginger kombucha on tap, and local beer. Menu includes burgers, fish tacos, wraps and

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ROY’S KĀ‘ANAPALI Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse, 669-6999 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Pacific Rim Cuisine (Silver, 2020) Celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi rocks local fish and produce with an Asian attention to detail. Blackened ‘ahi and macadamia nut-crusted mahimahi with lobster-butter sauce are menu standouts. Save room for the award-winning chocolate soufflé. Hawai‘i Regional. RR. $$$ ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-9119 A traditional torch-lighting ceremony heralds the evening at this open-air casual restaurant with commanding views of the Pacific, Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. Enjoy “broke da mouth” baked lobster mac ‘n’ cheese or a fresh ‘ahi poke bowl while enjoying hula dancers and Hawaiian music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. $$ ROYAL SCOOP Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-3611 Continental breakfast items, deli sandwiches,

specialty coffees, frozen yogurt, and Maui’s own Roselani Ice Cream. Treats. $ THE SANDBAR Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa lobby, 661-0031 Offering breakfast in the morning and cocktails and pūpū (appetizers) in the afternoons and evenings. Sunsets are free! Hawai‘i Regional. $$ SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 667-4506 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Steak (Silver, 2018) Overlooking a hidden lagoon and waterfall, Kā‘anapali’s premier steakhouse features the finest cuts, including filet mignon and prime New York strip. This finedining restaurant also serves fresh fish and lobster, and has an expansive wine list and a full bar. American. RR. $$$$ STARBUCKS Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-1200 Find all your favorite Starbucks offerings at this full-service store. Coffee Shop. $ STARBUCKS Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525 This second Kā‘anapali location has the same great Starbucks fare. Coffee Shop. $ SWAN COURT Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 661-1234 Start the day with a lavish breakfast buffet or à la carte selections of fresh, local flavors and traditional favorites as the resident swans glide by. American. $$ TEPPAN-YAKI DAN Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 921-4600 A skillful chef prepares steak, lobster, shrimp, scallops and fresh fish to perfection — right before your eyes. Japanese/Steak & Seafood. RR. $$$

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 661-1234 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Shave Ice (Gold, 2015–2020) Ululani’s elevates this local treat to gourmet proportions with fun add-ons, premium Roselani ice cream and homemade tropical syrups. Treats. $ ‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 661-1234 Hang out poolside and snack on Angus beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a Mutiny on the Carthaginian cocktail while enjoying seasonal evening entertainment. American/Pacific Rim. $$ WAICOCO Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 446-3020 Chef Chris Kajioka and two-time Michelin Awardwinner chef Mourad Lahlou create culinary memories at this venue serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. International. $-$$ WAILELE POLYNESIAN LŪ‘AU Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 661-2992 This award-winning Polynesian dinner show features an authentic Fijian chief as host; dances and songs from Hawai‘i, Fiji, Tahiti, New Zealand and Samoa; and a daring fire-knife dance finale. Hawaiian buffet and open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. RR. $$$$ WELOWELO Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 661-0011 This poolside oasis serves family-friendly fare such as pizza, burgers and fresh fish, as well as locally inspired Hawaiian bowls, pua‘a kālua (steamed, shredded pork), kāmano lomi (salted salmon with onions and tomatoes) and Asian slaw. Kid-friendly. International. $$

Toast your stay in paradise. Meet us at The Sandbar.

#pupuwithaview at Ka‘anapali’s only lobby bar. Sample craft cocktails and local bites infused with island flavors, while taking in panoramic views of the Pacific and Ka‘anapali Beach from a wraparound lanai. Open daily: 5 - 10:30 PM

Located at Sheraton Maui 2605 Ka‘anapali Parkway 808.661.0031 IG: @sandbarmaui

Summer–Fall 2022 55

The Spa at Black Rock offers massage treatments al fresco.

Seaside Serenity It’s a beautiful, breezy day in Kā‘anapali as I arrive at the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa. I valet my car and meet the resort’s director of public relations, Katelyn Mayer, for a tour of the “upside-down hotel.” The resort, built in 1963, was given this nickname because of its unusual layout: the original circular lobby was located at the very top of Pu‘u Keka‘a, aka Black Rock, and guests had to walk or ride the elevator down the hillside to get to their rooms. Since then, the property has expanded to include several more buildings, none of which is taller than the nearest palm tree (a very old, yet still revered, Hawaiian edict), and all of which reflect the original scalloped-balcony design. On the ground floor of one of the resort’s original buildings is the Spa at Black Rock. As I walk through the door, I am immediately met with that familiar spa essence: eucalyptus, a little citrus, vanilla — and happiness. I change into a robe and stash my belongings in a locker. Spa manager Haley Barnes shows me to the waiting area, a semicircular indoor/outdoor space with plenty of seating and a trickling three-tiered fountain. Inside is a display of products, lotions and potions used in the spa’s signature treatments. “This is the Eminence Organics skincare line your aesthetician will use for your facial, and this is the Cause+Medic CBD line Kalicia will use for your mas56 Kā‘anapali Magazine

sage,” explains Haley, pointing out an array of bottles. “It’s a new offering at the spa and is becoming very popular. And Kalicia is one of my favorite therapists.” As if conjured by her words, Kalicia appears and takes me to the treatment room for my CBD sports therapeutic massage. We discuss my areas of concern (tight hips and lower back) and the kind of pressure I want (firm) and Kalicia takes leave as I undress and lie on the table. She returns shortly and takes out the CBD body butter. She rubs it between her hands, then begins to work on the muscles of my back and shoulders with focus and intensity, checking in occasionally about the pressure. “This is a sports massage, so it will be firm,” she reminds me. “I’m pretty strong, so let me know if I should back off.” I tell her that so far, so good, and she continues her quest to untangle my knotted muscles. When she gets to my hips, she breaks out the CBD pain cream. “This is sort of like Icy Hot,” Kalicia says. “It has menthol, camphor and 400 milligrams of CBD. It helps reduce pain as well as inflammation.” She spreads it on and I feel a warming sensation penetrate my skin as she works on my glutes, hip flexors and iliotibial bands. For me, these areas are always miserably tight, but with the help of the pain cream and Kalicia’s

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE SPA AT BLACK ROCK

Story by Lara McGlashan

magic fingers, my lower half slowly loosens up. Eighty minutes later, I have been kneaded into submission and it’s time for my Eminence Organics facial. I meet my aesthetician, Kaegil, and we go into another treatment room. She puts the steamer on my face as we discuss my skin concerns (aging/spots) and collects the products she will need to (hopefully) turn back the clock. First is a two-step cleansing process: Kaegil uses oil and a brightener to wash away impurities, then an exfoliant to slough off the top layer of dead skin. Next, she applies an age-corrective masque and a hydrating mist, both of which boost collagen. After a few minutes she gently removes the masque, then gets to work on some extractions using a tool I have not seen before. “It’s a skin scrubber, kind of like a spatula,” she says. “It vibrates and gently urges out the impurities from your pores. It is gentler than a regular metal tool, which can leave scars and marks on your skin.” After the extractions, she applies a serum with vitamins C and E to reduce free-radical damage, a booster serum to help with the dark spots and a bamboo firming fluid for hydration. A final application of a recovery oil and sunscreen, and I am finished. My skin is clean, clear and glowing. I reluctantly rise from the table and change back into my clothes, ready (and also not ready) to return to the real world.q

Above: My therapist uses the Cause+Medic line of CBD lotions and creams to enhance the effects of my sports massage. Below: The Spa at Black Rock is located on the ground floor of one of the Sheraton’s original buildings. Bottom: An age-corrective facial masque can boost collagen production and help firm and brighten skin.

The Spa at Black Rock, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali | blackrockspa.com | 808.667.9577 | IG @spaatblackrock

Summer–Fall 2022 57

The Royal Kā‘anapali Course was designed more than 50 years ago by legendary golf architect Robert Trent Jones Sr. Over the years, this championship-caliber layout has hosted such professional men’s and women’s tournaments as the LPGA Women’s Kemper Open, Champions Tour EMC Kā‘anapali Classic, and the Kā‘anapali Champions Skins Game. With its fast, undulating greens, long fairways and diabolical bunkers, the Royal Kā‘anapali course has humbled the likes of Arnold Palmer, Jack Nicklaus, Nancy Lopez and Lee Trevino. The Kā‘anapali Kai course is considered more forgiving, but that’s no guarantee you’ll break par; it plays a bit shorter and features wideopen fairways that invite golfers to “grip it and rip it.” Winding from sea level to the top of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort, both courses offer stunning views of world-class hotels, luxury homes and our sister islands of Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. In the winter and spring, when the humpback whales return to Maui, the multitude of leviathans frolicking offshore can be very distracting, but learning when and how to block out the enticing 58 Kā‘anapali Magazine

island beauty is just one part of besting the courses at Kā‘anapali. Here are some tips to help you play like a local, and log your best score to date.

Play the Trades

Golfing in Hawai‘i often means teeing up in the wind, and with trades that can gust more than 30 miles per hour, this vexatious facet of nature can be a par killer. Learning to conquer the wind is as much mental as it is physical, and just like so many other aspects island life, the key is to hang loose and go with the flow. Most courses in Hawai‘i are designed with the trade winds in mind: long holes are positioned downwind and upwind holes are generally shorter and more lenient. The worst thing you can do is step up to a shot facing into a strong wind and try to hit it as hard as you possibly can. That’s a recipe for slicing your ball into the ocean, onto a neighboring fairway or into the tangle of tropical foliage lining the course. Instead, remember this mantra: When it’s

PHOTOS COURTESY OF KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSES

Tips to Lower Your Score

Kā‘anapali Golf Courses test your mettle and your concentration. Here’s how to play like a local.

Opposite: A player

tackles the Royal’s breezy, swing easy. This reminder can help you keep No. 5 green at your ball on course — literally and figuratively — and the Kā‘anapali save you from massive frustration. Classic Collegiate Invitational. Also, choose your club carefully. When Kā‘anapali Top right: The locals play, you might overhear them discussing sunset paints a whether it’s a “two-club” or a “three-club” wind. A spectacular picture two-club day means that the distance you’d usually over the course. Right: Golf pro cover with a five iron will require a three iron if the Ashley Short chips shot is upwind, and a seven iron if the trades are at one onto the green your back. Follow their lead: maintain your usual during the BMW Golf Invitational. swing and adjust your club selection to match the shot. If wind is just not your thing, call ahead to get the earliest tee time possible, preferrably before 11 a.m., when the trades tend to pick up. (Incidentally, this rule also applies to beachgoing, whale watching, helicopter rides and anything else that’s easier and more comfortable when conditions are calm.)

Go with the Grain

Wind is a force you can easily feel, but judging the grain of Hawai‘i’s greens is a trickier riddle. Grain is determined by the direction in which the blades of grass grow. Think of a dog with a short-hair coat. If you run the palm of your hand against the hair, you’ll feel resistance (and will annoy the dog). But stroke it in the direction in which the hair lies and the coat feels smooth. The same goes for the turf on the course: picture a million blades of grass fighting your ball every inch of the way (against the grain), or bent over and letting it build up speed (with the grain). In Hawai‘i, the grass generally grows toward the setting sun, which at Kā‘anapali Golf Courses is toward the sea. The grain also usually runs downhill and with the wind. This translates to lightning-quick downhill putts, uphill putts that die halfway to the hole, and sidehill benders that break three feet more than you’d expect. If you question this rule of thumb on a hole, walk up to the cup and look straight down. There will be a semicircle “burn” mark of brownish grass on one side of the rim; that is the direction of the grain. When playing the Kā‘anapali courses, be aggressive on putts that go against and into the grain. Aim for the back of the cup and rattle them home to eliminate break. On down-grain putts, factor in the additional speed and break, then apply a delicate touch. Don’t be afraid to read breaks of five or six feet on a 12-foot putt, or you’ll find your ball settling below the hole on the amateur side of the cup.

Focus — and Have Fun!

There are a lot of distractions competing for your attention in Kā‘anapali, so when stepping up to the tee, do your best to block out the ocean and mountain views, the scantily clad beachgoers, the serene sailboats and the breaching whales. Instead, try to find the hints the course designers incorporated into the layout to help you play the hole. For example, nearly every green has an area where you can land your ball short and roll it on. This “pitch and run” technique is often a good call, and approach shots on these two courses are almost always better below the hole than above it. Putting or chipping into the grain and slope allows you to be more aggressive. Also, leave your ego at the clubhouse. Many golfers feel the need to play from the tips (the back tees) to maximize the challenge and get the most for their driving dollar. If you’ve got a game on par with Nicklaus, that’s not a bad plan, but for the average golfer, it’s a sure way to shoot a round in the hundreds. Both of Kā‘anapali’s courses have four tee boxes on each hole, so move forward a box or two to make the course shorter. This will better your score, and also will improve your chances of enjoying yourself while playing. Take these tips and hit the links. And always remember — hang loose and have fun! q Kā‘anapali Golf Courses, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali | 808.661.3691 | kaanapaligolfcourses.com | IG/FB @kaanapaligolf Summer–Fall 2022 59

See

Hawai‘i’s quintessential feast comes to life at a Kā‘anapali Beach Resort hotel near you! These celebrations are a colorful and tasty way to experience a time-honored island tradition. Take the family to the island’s longest-running lū‘au, The Myths of Maui, at the Royal Lahaina Resort; opt for the exciting new Drums of the Pacific at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa (pictured); or reserve your spot at The Westin Maui Resort & Spa’s Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au for a thrilling fire-knife dance finale. For more information about each event, have a look at our Dining Guide on Page 52. 60 Kā‘anapali Magazine

HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA

EXPERIENCE A LŪ‘AU

SEE LEARN DO

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LEAPING INTO THE PAST

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA / TERALANI SAILING ADVENTURES / WHALERS VILLAGE / TOURNEAU | BUCHERER

Every night at sunset, a diver races to the top of Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock), torch aloft. At the summit, he offers both the torch and a lei to the sea — then leaps off the cliff! Divers have performed this ceremony since the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa opened in 1963, honoring a tradition begun by chief Kahekili in the 1700s. Watch from the comfort of the Sheraton’s Cliff Dive Grill, where live music and cocktails flow nightly. sheratonmaui.com | 808.661.0031 | IG/FB @sheratonmaui

PUT A RING ON IT Thinking of popping the question? Or perhaps you want to buy your loved one — or yourself — a treat! Head to Tourneau | Bucherer in Whalers Village and check out the Baguette Diamond Love Ring in 18-karat rose gold. This endless circle of glamour totals almost 3 karats of the finest-quality diamonds. tourneau.com | 808.661.6806 | IG @tourneau | FB @officialtourneau

SAIL INTO THE SUNSET If you think Maui’s sunsets are spectacular, just wait until you witness one aboard a Teralani Sailing Adventures catamaran. Choose the Holo Holo Sunset Sail and enjoy an assortment of pūpū and cocktails, or opt for the Sunset Dinner Sail, which includes an incredible meal catered by an award-winning chef. Relax and toast the day as the sun paints the sky in yellow, orange and red. teralani.net | 808.661.SAIL (7245) | IG/FB @teralanisailing

KEEP CALM AND TROLLEY ON

OUTDOOR MOVIE NIGHTS

Let the free Kā‘anapali Trolley take you around the resort, and be transported to yesteryear with its old-fashioned design and open-air seating. The trolley runs from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, with service to hotels, condos, Whalers Village, Kā‘anapali Golf Courses, Fairway Shops and more. Visit the website for the full schedule of stops. kaanapalitrolley.info | 808.667.0648

Enjoy a free, family-friendly movie under the stars! Monday through Friday at 7:30 p.m., Whalers Village hosts well-loved films such as Moana, The Lego Movie, Encanto and more. Bring a beach mat, blanket or low beach chair, and plenty of snacks and you’re all set for an evening of fun. whalersvillage.com | 808.661.4567 | IG/FB @whalersvillage Summer–Fall 2022 61

THE WESTIN MAUI RESORT & SPA

Learn

MAKING WAVES WITH WELLNESS Mālama (care for) Maui by partaking in The Westin Maui Resort & Spa’s Waterman Program, ocean adventures conducted by champion standup paddle board athletes, boat captains, canoe racers and others who want to share their respect for the water while giving back to the community. Join these ambassadors of aloha for a beach cleanup and environmental talk, or work up a sweat with a scenic paddle along the Kā‘anapali coast as you learn about the Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary. The resort upcycles worn-out pillowcases for the beach cleanups, and participants get a souvenir pillowcase to take with them to mālama their own hometown. westinmaui.com | 808.667.2525 | IG/FB @thewestinmaui

62 Kā‘anapali Magazine

SEE LEARN DO

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION / ROYAL LAHAINA RESORT / HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA / AUBREY HORD, KĀ‘AANAPALI BEACH HOTEL

HISTORIC HIKE Discover Kā‘anapali’s rich and storied past with this self-guided tour, which begins at the north end of the resort, at the ancient village of Keka‘a, and finishes at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa. Along the way, you’ll encounter 10 sites marked by lava-rock monuments with plaques explaining the significance of each one. Visit kaanapaliresort.com/travel-agents-media and click on “Kā‘anapali Historical Trail & History and Legends Tour” to download an informational brochure and map.

LET’S MAKE LEI What says “Hawai‘i” more than a fresh flower lei? Learn different lei-making techniques and gain an understanding of the significance and uses of lei. Held Monday through Friday at 2:30 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday at 3:30 p.m., at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel. kbhmaui.com | 808.667.0161 | IG @kbhmaui | FB @kaanapalibeachhotel

TENNIS (LESSONS) ANYONE? For more than 50 years, the Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch has been providing visitors and the local community with tennis programs and events in its 3,500-seat stadium and 10 surrounding courts. Set up a game with friends and family, or ask the staff to pair you with another player of the same level who’s looking for a match. The Ranch also features a pro shop, private and group lessons, clinics for all ages, and five courts lit for night play! royallahainatennisranch.com | 808.667.5200

SHOOTING STARS Head to the rooftop of the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa for a stellar introduction to the world of astrophotography with the Hyatt’s director of astronomy and NASA ambassador Eddie Mahoney. Use your own DSLR or mirrorless camera in combination with the resort’s Celestron Deluxe HD telescope to take photos of the night sky and celestial bodies in deep space. The workshop takes place Mondays at 11 p.m. and space is limited, so call 808.667.4727 to make a reservation; guests of the Hyatt simply dial extension 4727. Summer–Fall 2022 63

The incredible views, the thrill of adventure — what more could you want from a family-friendly excursion? UFO Parasail is a top-rated activity on Maui, and with 36 years of experience, they know all there is to know about flying above Kā‘anapali. You’ll reach heights of up to 1,200 feet, and afterward can cool off with a refreshing dip in the Pacific. Get ready for an unforgettable adventure in the sky! Check in at the UFO Parasail green alien umbrellas near Leilani’s on the Beach in Whalers Village. ufoparasail.net | 800.359.4836 | IG/FB @ufoparasail 64 Kā‘anapali Magazine

UFO PARASAIL

HIGH-FLYING FUN

SEE LEARN DO

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: JET SKI MAUI / KĀ‘ANAPALI SURF CLUB / HAWAI‘I FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL / KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSES / ISLAND STYLE ADVENTURES SURF SCHOOL

GOT A NEED FOR SPEED? Then check out Maui’s best Jet Ski and flyboard rentals! Kick it along the Kā’anapali coastline! Rent a Jet Ski for an unparalleled experience of speed and agility, or hop on a flyboard to defy gravity and soar like a superhero. They are both easy to learn and fun for the whole family. Minimum age for passengers is 5 years old, and drivers must be at least 16 years of age. (No driver’s license is required with a parent’s or guardian’s approval.) Ready to ride? Just look for the red and white umbrella on the sand near Lelani’s on the Beach. Open seven days per week, weather permitting. mauiwatersports.com | 808.667.2001 | IG/FB @jetskimaui

OCEAN ADVENTURES

PEDAL PUSHERS

Whether you want to surf, snorkel or stand-up paddle, Island Style Adventures Surf School can help! Expert instructors at this familyowned business teach you all about the gear and how to use it. Small group lessons mean you’ll be out in the water having fun in no time! isasurfschool.com | 808.244.6858 | IG/FB @isasurfschool

Though we mortals haven’t yet figured out how to walk on water, renting a Hobie Mirage Eclipse — aka the Aqua Glider — comes pretty close. This pedal-powered watercraft with handlebar steering is best described as a combination stairstepper and stand-up paddleboard, and is available for rent exclusively at Kā‘anapali Surf Club. See the Resort Map on page 16 for locations. kaanapalisurfclub.com | 808.270.0044 | IG @kaanapalisurfclub | FB @kaanapalisurf

LOGO TO GO

OCTOBER FEST

It’s tough to pack your bags and say aloha to Maui — so take a piece of paradise home with you! Visit the Kā‘anapali Golf Shop for all sorts of remembrances, including men’s and women’s apparel, golf shirts, hats, gifts and more. kaanapaligolfcourses.com/store

Join chefs, winemakers and mixologists at the Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival for a fun-filled weekend of events from October 21 to 23. Tee off against celebrity chefs at the Roy Yamaguchi Golf Classic, held at Kā‘anapali Golf Courses. Visit the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa for Big, Bold & Beautiful to sample the best wines from around the globe. Or head to the Royal Lahaina Resort for Stars, Beards and Diamonds, a five-course dinner created by acclaimed chefs with dozens of Michelin stars, James Beard Awards and AAA Diamonds among them. hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com | 808.738.6245 | IG @hifoodfest | FB @hawaiifoodandwinefestival Summer–Fall 2022 65

Come sail, explore, snorkel, eat, laugh and create your own special Maui memories.

www.teralani.com

Departing directly from Kā‘anapali Beach

SUNSET SAIL Maui Sunset Dinner Sail • Gourmet dinner • Full bar Holo Holo Sunset Sail • Select pūpū (appetizers) • Full bar

SNORKEL ADVENTURES Lāna‘i Snorkel Sail • Secluded snorkel sites around Lāna‘i • Continental breakfast and lunch • Full bar Premier Snorkel Sail • Two snorkel destinations (seasonal) • Continental breakfast and lunch • Full bar

808-661-7245