Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine July-Aug 2016 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

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features « THE

HOT ISSUE »

30 » island portrait

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY Protecting multiple islands in the middle of the world’s largest ocean is no simple feat. By Lehia Apana

39 » maui style

MAUI’S BEST BEACHES Where to find great snorkeling, running, or stand-up paddling? We asked the experts. By Judy Edwards

46 » adventure

HOT WHEELS At Maui Raceway Park, life’s a drag—and that’s a good thing. By Rick Chatenever

52 » hawaiian soul

FIRE GODDESS How could we dedicate an issue to all things hot, and not include Pele? By Rita Goldman

56 » artists on location

MOLTEN ART Like the Islands, glass begins in a hot, fluid state. The art is in what happens next. By Teya Penniman

64 » at home

THINK SMALL Tiny homes are becoming a hot new trend. The big question is, why? By Heidi Pool

about our cover

In Puna, on Hawai‘i Island, magma and ocean collide with dramatic effect— warring goddesses who also left their mark along the Hāna Coast. Story on page 52. Photo by Bob Bangerter

Maui-based photographer Karim Iliya goes to great lengths to capture the perfect shot, from underwater caves to snowy mountaintops, to Maui’s famed windsurfing beach, Ho‘okipa, depicted on our cover. See story page 39.

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departments

14 » contributors It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

16 » publisher’s note By Diane Haynes Woodburn

18 » talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Lehia Apana, Kathy Collins, Teri Freitas Gorman, Deborah Caulfield Rybak & Shannon Wianecki

28 » great finds SOME LIKE IT HOT Our favorite ways to revel in or beat the heat. Compiled by Conn Brattain

106 » calendar of events What’s happening where, when, and with whom

110 » who’s who Seen making the scene on Maui

114 » looking back HOT TOPICS For twenty years, we’ve covered island controversies—and some just won’t go away.

 DINING  80 » dining feature

You’ll go nuts over these delicious desserts from Sugar Beach Bake Shop. See Dining Highlights page 86. Photo by John Giordani

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in July)

WHERE THERE’S SMOKE . . . you’ll find Maui’s firefighters, but they do so much more. Catch them in action at MauiMagazine.Net/maui-firefighters. TRY YOUR LUCK! Enter our Beat the Heat Vacation Getaway contest by August 31, and you could win a mini vacation at Hyatt Recency Maui. See ad on page 55, then enter online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-getaway. THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for the latest on what’s happening around Maui County. MauiMagazine.net/maui-events RED CARPET TREATMENT Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo in our online Facebook albums and share with friends.

86 » dining highlights GO NUTS! Chocolate-covered is just the beginning. By Becky Speere

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

GET SOCIAL

CHEF ON A HOT TIN ROOF Chef Sheldon and Janice Simeon are the mom-n-pop behind this new, family-style restaurant. By Becky Speere

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90 » maui mixology FIRE AND ICE Locally grown Hawaiian chili pepper spikes up these icy, spicy drinks. By Becky Speere

92 » dining guide A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

congratulations... to Jessica Gerdel of Wailuku, winner of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s Island Living contest. Jessica has won $300 in gift certificates from HUE, Outdoor Living, and The Shops at Wailea.

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is indeed the best.” We hope you think so, too.

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PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana

A spontaneous surf session with my wife, followed by sharing an Ululani’s Shave Ice.—Mike Neubauer

DINING EDITOR Becky Speere

I like to go on a hike in the Makawao Forest Reserve. It’s shady, cool, a bit moist, and best of all, a million miles away from technology. —Heidi Pool Something about fresh and crisp white cotton sheets on the bed always make me feel cooler on a warm summer night.—Conn Brattain

ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEBSITE MANAGER

Adelle Lennox

ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Rick Chatenever, Kathy Collins, Judy Edwards, Teri Freitas Gorman, Teya Penniman, Heidi Pool, Deborah Caulfield Rybak, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Nothing beats jumping in the car with the AC on max, and cool sounds emanating from the high wattage, ten-speaker system, while driving around always cooler Upcountry. —Bruce Wheeler

Alika Apana, Bob Bangerter, Glenn J. Barr, Franck Berthout, Havana Blackburn, Conn Brattain, Kailea Fredricks, John Giordani, Jumping in ‘Īao River. Mieko Horikoshi, Zane Mathias, Jason Moore, —Shelby Lynch Kimberley K. Mullen, Mike Neubauer, Mark Pokini, Carl Shaneff, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Forest and Kim Starr, Bruce Wheeler CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

Matt Foster I like swimming in the dark and chilly cave pool at Wai‘ānapanapa.—Shannon Wianecki After sweating it out on weekend yard work, I cool down with a cold beer or home-brewed kombucha, then a dousing under the outdoor shower.—John Giordani

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I love to cool off in the ocean with an earlymorning surf session. —Kimberley K. Mullen Snorkeling at a new spot, followed by shave ice on the way home.—Adelle Lennox

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publisher’s note Old Flame During MNKO’s twentieth anniversary year, we’ve been having fun looking back at archived stories, and thought you might enjoy this one from 2010. After all, our theme this issue is “hot stuff”—and what could be hotter than a sexy, champagne-gold Jag . . . in flames? “Oh, I’m sorry.” The young woman at the rent-a-car desk looked genuinely concerned. “We don’t have the car you reserved. But . . .” she cheered up visibly, “we can give you a minivan!” She must have seen the look of horror on my face. “Oh, don’t worry,” she assured me. “We won’t charge you extra.” Clearly, she didn’t understand. Just the other day I had been driving a 1998, champagne XK8 Jaguar convertible. Like of the ghosts of vehicles past, twenty-five years of nursery school, carpool, soccer, groceries, baseball, camp outs, emergency-room visits, high school, tons more groceries, surfboards, bikes and graduations careened through my mind. “A minivan?” I remembered the first time I met the XK8. It was seven years ago. The kids were all gone, and my faithful Pathfinder was on its last wheels. I needed a car. “You should take a look at Jeff’s Jag,” my husband advised. “A Jag?” I protested. “I could never drive a Jag; there’s no room for the kids.” “Kids are gone,” he reminded me. “Try it.” One rev of the engine, one spin around our country roads, and I was in love. I had arrived, with a little style, a little daring, and very little room for anything else. It was perfect. “Gee, what a shame. I have the Jag; we can’t all fit.” I thought it would last forever. But the other day, it ended. I had stopped at Pukalani Foodland to pick up a quart of milk. While standing in line, daydreaming, I heard a muffled voice announcing something over the PA. Then I heard the women in front of me giggling “A gold Jaguar?” they laughed. Hmm, could that be me? Did I park in a handicapped zone? Did I run over a cart? (I’m not good with details.) Suspecting the offending gold Jaguar was mine, I abandoned the quart of milk and slinked out to the parking lot. There, beyond the gawking crowd, was my car . . . which had burst into flames. Big, red flames. Rather than face the looming ravages of old age, the old girl had simply, spontaneously combusted. Smoke poured out in billowing clouds. “Get a grip!” I wanted to yell at her. “You don’t have to do this! You still look good to me.” It was to no avail. She was going out in a blaze of glory. Fire engines roared up, police cars arrived with sirens blaring. “Stand back!” men in uniform yelled. “But that’s my car!” I pleaded. “You don’t have to use a crowbar; I have the keys. . . .” Having no flames of my own, I was invisible. Soon enough, the fire was out. The police masked the area off with bright yellow crime-scene tape. I stood there, wishing for the little car to rise from the ashes, rev her engine, and like the phoenix, take off in glorious resurrection. But no. This vehicular goose was cooked. My car enjoyed her last few days of fame ensconced on our street, waiting for the tow truck. I visited her from time to time, thanking her for being such a lady—for waiting until I was well out of her range to throw herself on the pyre. Her selfless, if smoky, deed reminded me just how lucky I am. Interesting, how one’s perspective and priorities change with near disaster. So the other day I humbly drove the minivan to a local dealership, in search of a permanent replacement. “What would you like?” the salesman asked politely. “Well,” I replied, “a four-door would be nice. I’d like room for family, friends, and beach toys.”

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

NINA KUNA

A hui hou,

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talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless

IN SEASON

Haleakalā Silverswords Summer is the prime time to observe an only-on-Maui botanical phenomenon: the blooming of the Haleakalā silverswords. These rare, endangered plants dot the sides of volcanic cinder cones, looking like pale green hedgehogs. They grow high up on Maui’s tallest summit—and nowhere else on Earth. This remarkable endemic species is uniquely suited to its extreme environment. Spiky silversword leaves form a bowlingball-sized rosette, and each leaf is covered in fine, reflective hairs. Both the geometry and hairs protect the plant against the intense solar radiation and frigid nighttime temperatures found on the 10,023-foot summit. Impeccably engineered, silver-

swords can live more than fifty years. Each plant produces a single flower stalk before it dies—a sort of swan song to its ecosystem. These stalks are something to behold. Towering up to six feet tall, they’re covered in hundreds of tiny fuchsia blossoms. No one knows what triggers silverswords to flower. Some years—such as 2014—many thousands burst into exuberant bloom. Other years, nary a petal emerges. When the wonky plants do bloom, they release a singular, sweet fragrance that summons pollinators across the vast volcanic landscape. Hawaiian Hylaeus bees come to bury their yellow faces in pollen. Native picture wing flies pay visits, as do tephritid fruit flies, whose larvae feed on silversword

fruits—some of the only food available in this stark terrain. During especially fecund years, you don’t even need to leave your car to catch a whiff of silversword perfume; mature plants crowd the summit parking lot. Find more by trekking down Keonehe‘ehe‘e (Sliding Sands) Trail. You can trample their fragile roots by stepping too close, so don’t leave the trail. But don’t miss this opportunity. Climate change is already taking a toll on Maui’s high-altitude inhabitants. Warmer temperatures and reduced rainfall have decreased silversword numbers, which makes witnessing the charismatic plants all the more precious. —Shannon Wianecki

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After a silversword has spent a dozen years or more resembling a silvery, spiky ball, the plant’s last act is to send up a flower stalk. The photos above were taken between June 17 and November 27. Left: If this magnified silversword blossom look strangely like a sunflower, it’s because the two plants share a common ancestor, the California tarweed. Over 11 million years ago, tarweed seeds blew over to the Hawaiian Islands. The species evolved over many generations to maximize its new environment, resulting in the Silversword Alliance—more than fifty unique plants, including this one, the crown jewel of Haleakalā. Photography by Bob Bangerter

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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talk story

DAY IN THE LIFE

Beware of Bulls NAME: Rory Souza TITLE: Protection Bullfighter

SPURRED TO ACTION: Rory Souza says he won’t ride a bull, but he has no problem with staring one down from the ground. The twenty-five-year-old from Makawao was born into the paniolo (cowboy) lifestyle, and started riding sheep when he was eight years old, eventually graduating to junior bulls. “When it came time for the big bulls, I knew I didn’t want to be strapped onto their backs, so I figured I’d do bullfighting and still be part of the sport.” What Rory does has neither the foolery of the rodeo clown, nor the lethal artistry of the matador—it’s a serious business of protecting the riders. “When the cowboy falls off, my job is to make myself a better target for the bull,” he says. “Sometimes the rider gets twisted in the rope and can’t get off, so I need to get them away and out of danger.”

No clowning around: Rory Souza has the serious job of protecting cowboys—and himself—from rushing bulls. That means running to the danger, instead of away from it.

BANG-UP JOB: Despite this familiarity, Rory knows that his role comes with serious risk. While his protective vest and padded shorts can soften a blow, they’re not enough to withstand a full-force collision. “Every time I step in there, I’m risking my life. The bull weighs 2,000 pounds. If he steps on me, he’s gonna crush everything,” explains Rory, whose injuries so far have been limited to bruised ribs and twisted ankles. But Rory doesn’t focus on the dangers. “When I get in that arena, it’s not for the crowd, it’s not for me, it’s to help these guys do what they love and feel safe. I’ve had guys tell me they’ll jump on a mountain lion if I’m in there, so that makes me feel like I’m doing my job.”—Lehia Apana

The 2016 Makawao Rodeo rides into town July 1 through 3 at Oskie Rice Arena, with the popular Bull Bash happening July 1. See this issue’s Calendar of Events for details.

BOTTOM: EMY.MEDEIROS/EMY MEDEIROS

Photo by Glenn J. Barr

HERD INSTINCT: As the only person on Maui raising bucking bulls, Rory has a home-court advantage. His bulls are used for local rodeos, so he’s accustomed to the hefty animals. “I’ve been around cattle my entire life, so I usually know what their next move will be,” he says. “Every one of my bulls has a different temperament, and I can help the riders by telling them which way the bull is going to spin or how far he’s going to come out [of the chute].”

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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talk story

Savoring the Burn For me, chili pepper water will forever be linked to college summer breaks. After months of boring mainland food, coming home meant a quick family reunion at OGG, followed by the obligatory stop at the now long-gone Aloha Restaurant on Pu‘unēnē Avenue in Kahului. It was a no-frills concrete-block restaurant with noisy, leaky window air conditioners that almost cooled the drab dining room. Simple Formica tables offered up the holy trinity of local-style condiments: shoyu, Hawaiian salt and “chili peppa watah.” A bowl of fresh poi, a steaming laulau and chunks of raw Kula onions sprinkled with this fiery elixir was a mouthful of ‘ono spicy bliss. Ah, the comforting flavors of home. Locals splash chili pepper water on just about anything, but the origin of this ubiquitous Hawai‘i condiment remains a mystery. It is believed the Spanish agriculturalist Don Francisco Paula de Marin introduced chili peppers to Hawai‘i during the early 1800s. Native Hawaiians named them nīoi and mixed them with water to treat skin conditions. Later, Portuguese immigrants used them in island versions of their piri piri sauce, and Japanese pickled vegetables got kicked up a notch with them. Like so many of Hawai‘i’s culinary treasures, chili pepper water is a multicultural collaboration. Similar to Thai or bird’s eye chili, nīoi are small, bullet-shaped capsules of fire that turn bright red when ripe. And they are hot. They score 50,000 to 70,000 on the Scoville Heat Unit scale (by comparison, a jalapeño rates a wimpy 2,500 to 10,000 SHU). Family recipes for chili pepper water range from “supah easy” (mix water and chopped Hawaiian chili) to complex (put salt, vinegar, garlic and fresh smashed chili into a sterilized jar, add boiling water, mix with a wooden chopstick and allow to mature at room temperature for forty-eight hours). Regardless of the recipe, “chili peppa watah” makes everything taste better, especially college summer breaks on Maui. —Teri Freitas Gorman

Build Your Own Fire

Recipe courtesy of MNKO dining editor Becky Speere

Boil water. Cool. In a clean glass jar or bottle, add water, vinegar, garlic, salt and chili pepper. Cover and let sit two days in a cool place before using. Store in refrigerator.

JOHN GIORDANI

8 oz. water 2 oz. white vinegar 1 tsp. Hawaiian rock salt, ‘alaea salt, or kosher salt 1 clove garlic, smashed 1–3 fresh red chili peppers, preferably Hawaiian (hot)

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talk story

NOTEWORTHY

One Mo‘lina

COURTESY OF JAY MOLINA

Andrew Molina, solo (above), and with grandfather Henry and dad Jay (below). Lower right: As the Molina Brothers Orchestra, Andrew’s grandfather and great-uncles entertained generations of Mauians from the 1930s through the 1980s. Depicted here in 1938, front row, from left: John, drums; Joseph, guitar, banjo, bass; Rafael, baritone sax, guitar; Domingo, tenor sax; Henry, alto sax; Salvador, sax; Anthony, piano, guitar. Back row: Frank, sax, bass; Manuel, manager.

With his charming demeanor and a pedigree as a third-generation member of Maui’s largest musical dynasty, Andrew Molina could be the lead singer of America’s next superstar boy band. Except for one small hitch: he doesn’t sing. He does, however, play the ‘ukulele—with a passion and flair that critics have likened to that of ‘ukulele king Jake Shimabukuro. In fact, Ukulele Magazine last year featured Andrew in its list “The Next Jake: 5 Up-and-Coming Hawaiian Artists to Watch,” an honor that the twenty-three-year-old does not take lightly. Jake is, after all, the inspiration for Andrew’s blossoming career. Andrew was thirteen and hadn’t considered following in his father’s or grandfather’s footsteps as a professional musician, when a friend dropped by with an ‘ukulele and piqued his curiosity. Dad Jay, who started playing bass at the age of eleven, had never pushed the family tradition on his only son. But after noting Andrew’s newfound interest, Jay took him to see Jake in concert and arranged a post-show meeting. From that night on, Andrew was hooked on ‘uke. Jake has since become a close friend and mentor, while Andrew has gone beyond imitation and into his own style. In 2010, he penned his first song. Four years later, eight of the eleven songs on his debut CD, The Beginning, were original compositions. He describes his music as “a mix of pop, Hawaiian, rock, Latin, and a little bit of jazz. . . . I’m always trying to find a way to take the ‘ukulele to another level.” With Jay as his business manager and frequent accompanist (on bass and guitar), Andrew regularly performs at The Shops at Wailea and resorts such as The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, and the Fairmont Kea Lani. This fall, father and son will embark on their second West Coast tour, hopefully with a new CD in hand. Andrew’s beaming smile is irresistible and infectious, much like his stage presence. His passion for playing is obvious, but it’s the interaction with his audience that fuels his drive. Performing live, he says, is “such a thrill, I can’t see myself doing anything else.” To check Andrew’s performance schedule, visit his website, AndrewMolinaUkulele.com.—Kathy Collins

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Diversity Is Life The World Conservation Congress is sometimes called the Olympics of environmental gatherings. It’s held every four years by the International Union for Conservation of Nature, a network of more than 1,200 governmental, scientific and nonprofit organizations representing 160 countries. Surprisingly, since its inception in 1948, the congress has never been held in the United States. Until now. Thanks to a Hawai‘i coalition led by Chipper Wichman, president and CEO of the National Tropical Botanical Garden on Kaua‘i, and endorsed by President Barak Obama, Honolulu will host the 2016 World Conservation Congress from September 1 through 10. And the action won’t be confined to O‘ahu. In conjunction with the congress, Maui County will present the first Indigenous Crop Biodiversity Festival, August 24 through 30. Held on Maui, Moloka‘i, and even the restricted island of Kaho‘olawe, the festival will offer talks, tours and workshops on indigenous Hawaiian foods, species and habitat preservation, food security, renewable energy, and planning for sea-level rise. Sprinkled throughout will be films, music, art, cultural events and more at venues like the Maui Nui Botanical Garden in Kahului, Bailey House Museum in Wailuku, the Maui Tropical Plantation in

Waikapū, and the Merwin Conservancy in Ha‘ikū. “Maui and Moloka‘i possess some of the best biologically diverse Hawaiian crop collections,” says Penny Levin, the festival’s planning coordinator. “We want to highlight that, and to make space for indigenous voices to be heard regarding food security.” The festival is sponsored in part by the County of Maui, the University of Hawai‘i–Maui College, and the Mayor’s Office of Economic Development, with support from more than thirty environmental and agricultural entities. Festivities kick off on August 24 with a conservation workday on Maui and Moloka‘i. “Our goal is to have as many volunteers as possible working to pull invasive species and plant natives,” Levin says. The Indigenous Crop Biodiversity Festival takes its theme from a Hawaiian proverb, I ulu no ka lālā i ke kumu, “The branches grow because of the trunk,” a reminder that, without our ancestors, we would not exist.—Deborah Caulfield Rybak For details on the Indigenous Crop Biodiversity Festival and a calendar of events, visit ICBF-Maui.com. For more info on the World Conservation Congress, visit IUCNWorldConservation Congress.org.

TOP: SHELBY LYNCH; BOTTOM ROW, L–R: STARR ENVIRONMENTAL; KIRC; MAUI FOREST BIRDS RECOVERY PROJECT/ C. ROBBY KOHLEY; STARR ENVIRONMENTAL, KIRC

talk story

The festival will include talks and workshops on protecting Maui County’s indigenous crops, reef and marine environments, photo exhibits, hikes through the Merwin Conservancy and Pu‘u Kukui Preserve, service trips to Waihe‘e Ridge Trail and Kaho‘olawe . . . and much more.

MauiMagazine.net

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

Enjoy the hospitality of Maui’s plantation era at the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor. Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Atlantis Submarine

The Parrot Guy

Maui Toy Works

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

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 GREAT FINDS 

Some Like It Hot Others like to chill. Our preference? Sharing our favorite ways to revel in or beat the heat. COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN

5 4

1: WESTIN MAUI RESORT; 2 & 3: CONN BRATTAIN; 4: TUTU’S PANTRY; 5: JOHN GIORDANI; 6: MAUI EXCELLENT; 7: MEGHAN GOULD; 8: LOVIN’ SUMMER

MauiMagazine.net

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ROCK ON! Pōhaku is Hawaiian for stone, but we’re sure you’ll come up with your own superlative for the therapeutic effect of pōhaku massage. The warmth of the stones relaxes muscles for a deeper, more effective massage. 50/80 min. $165/$230 at Heavenly Spa at The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-2588, WestinMaui.com.

HOT PLATE, cool idea. Kō’s bakers fill Portuguese sweet bread with coconut gelato, fry it, roll it in vanilla sugar, and serve these pão doce frito with Kula blackraspberry jam—hot and crunchy outside, cool and creamy inside. $10 for 2 at Kō in The Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210, KoRestaurant.com.

ui a M

The Largest Selection of Oceanfront Vacation Condominiums Lahaina • Ka’anapali • Kahana • Napili • Kapalua

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HALA IF YOU’RE A FAN Cool down with a lauhala fan handwoven from the leaves of the pandanus. Approximately 10”x6”, made in Hawai‘i. (Batteries neither included, nor necessary.) $17 at Native Intelligence, 1980 Main St., Wailuku, 249-2421, www.Native-Intel.com.

IN THE HEAT OF THE BITE Hana Hotties sauces are made on Maui with fresh fruits, Hawaiian chili peppers, and no artificial flavors, concentrates, or added sugar. Available in habanero, liliko‘i, pineapple, mango or papaya; 5oz. bottle/$14 at Tutu’s Pantry, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 5D, Kīhei, 8746400, TutusPantry.com

FRIED TO A CRISP Teddy’s fries stay crunchy and hot, the perfect side for what MNKO readers voted Best Burger at 2016’s ‘Aipono Awards. $4 small, $5 large (shown) at Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111; TeddysBB.com, and Teddy’s Bigger Burger Food Truck. Call 280-9371 or check Facebook for truck location.

ESSENTIAL OIL Analgesic relief combines with mint’s healing properties in Volcano Oil Roll-on by Maui Excellent, great for headaches, sore muscles, pain and congestion. 9.75ml., $15 at MauiExcellent. com and Longs Drugs islandwide.

MUG SHOT Meghan Gould handcrafts her Seeds and Stone mugs to handle the heat beautifully. Ocean Blue glazed ceramic, $35; red clay, $30. Find an assortment at Hāna Ranch Provisions Cafe, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 868-3688; and SeedsAndStone.com.

SUN BLOCK Lovin’ Summer’s 100% cotton canvas tent has aluminum poles, pegs for beach or grass setup, pole stays for wind stability, and shoulder-strap carry bag with lightweight mallet. 6 patterns. Approx. 11’x6’. $189 at HUE, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului, 873-6910, MauiHue.com.

855-836-0619 www.westmauicondos.com • info@chasenrainbows.com

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Alice McDermott, CFP®, Senior Planner Barry Hyman, MBA, Hawaii Branch Manager Linda Barcheski, Client Services

444 Hana Highway, Suite D, Kahului, Hawaii 96732 808 871 1006 | Toll-free 888 243 8220 fimg-hawaii@fimg.net | www.fimg.net

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« ISLAND PORTRAIT »

KIMBERLEY K. MULLEN

MauiMagazine.net

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5/21/16 6:12 PM

Story by Lehia Apana Photography by Bob Bangerter, Kimberley K. Mullen & Mike Neubauer

BOB BANGERTER

Protecting multiple islands in the middle of the world’s largest ocean is no simple feat, but Maui County’s firefighters do it daily. From dousing flames, to diving underwater, to scaling mountains, rescuers must be prepared for anything— so they train for everything. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 ISLAND PORTRAIT  Opening spread: Recruits douse flames during a mock airplane crash at Kahului International Airport. Helicopters are a key part of Maui County Fire Department’s toolkit— sometimes the safest way to reach someone in distress is from above. This page: The department’s live-burn facility in Kahului offers realistic conditions—dangers included.

MIKE NEUBAUER

Opposite page, top: Jet Ski instruction is one of seventeen disciplines in the department’s preparedness training program that address Maui County’s diverse mauka to makai (mountain to ocean) terrain. Here a firefighter retrieves his partner during an exercise at surf break Pier 1 in Kahului. Bottom: Firefighter and ropes specialist Pete Napolitano is lowered during a rappelling demonstration.

MauiMagazine.net

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TOP: MARK POKINI; KIMBERLEY K. MULLEN

Firefighter Mark Pokini is being chased by a monster—a wet, salty, spine-chilling beast. The fifteen-foot wave rolls towards shore, forming an avalanche of whitewater at his heels. Its booming force eclipses the hum of Pokini’s Jet Ski, and as the wave face heaves forward, it appears he’s about to be swallowed by the ocean. Pokini peeks over his shoulder for a millisecond before locking his gaze ahead, yanking on the throttle and racing to safety. And this is just the drill. A twenty-six-year veteran of Maui County Fire Department, Pokini is a captain at the Kahului station, and also leads the department’s Jet Ski training program. For the next several hours, his “classroom” is the notoriously treacherous Kahului surf break called Pier 1. Pokini keeps watch over his students as they carve figure eights across the ocean while awaiting his orders. “Things get progressively harder for them, and by the end we make them catastrophically fail,” says Pokini, referring to an exercise that forces the driver to jump off the Jet Ski with the key in hand. The person being pulled on the tow sled must gain control of the ski and rescue his or her partner—all while dodging oncoming surf. “It’s one of the main reasons people who are tow surfing get in trouble. The driver is tossed off the ski and the guy on the sled isn’t able to get out of harm’s way,” he explains. “Firefighter” is the official job title, but the men—and one woman—of the Maui County Fire Department do a heck of a lot more: dangling from helicopters for ocean rescues, using the “jaws of life” to pull passengers out of crashed vehicles, and rappelling cliffs for recovery missions. Maui County is made up of three populated islands (Maui, Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i), and a fourth island (Kaho‘olawe) that occasionally has volunteers on it, and always has unexploded ordnance from years of U.S. Navy bombing practice. All the islands have enticing but sometimes treacherous trails, while offshore, rough currents and powerful waves can make the ocean dangerous for swimmers and boaters. It’s a logistical puzzle found nowhere else in the country. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 ISLAND PORTRAIT 

Maui County Fire Department’s jurisdiction extends beyond the shore. Here, rescuers practice being lowered in a basket to reach victims.

Our growing visitor population adds yet another challenge for firefighters, because our landscape, besides being beautiful, can also be deadly. Exploring beyond the beaten path when you don’t know the terrain and weather patterns is a recipe for trouble. Last year alone, the department responded to nearly 11,000 calls. “When I was on rescue, we’d get calls from visitors in distress and it was like, ‘They’re where? How did they get in the middle of nowhere?’” says Pokini. “We’d go down and grab them, and on our way out I’d ask them how they knew about this place; they’d almost always say they read about it in the Maui Revealed guidebook.” He adds, “People nowadays can just look up anywhere they want to go—pull it up on a map and say, ‘I’m going to go here today’—and put themselves in places where they probably shouldn’t be.” Add to all that the fact that we’re on the most isolated island chain on Earth, and you can see why our firefighters have to excel at far more skills, in a variety of threatening situations, than most other firefighters do. “Many departments on the mainland have agreements with neighboring departments to step in if a certain specialty is needed,” explains MCFD Training Bureau Captain Rylan Yatsushiro. “Our next resource is a plane or a boat ride away.” To understand how everyday citizens become lifesavers, I tagged along with firefighters in training. I realized right away that, while it’s all for practice, the danger is very real. In addition to the more exotic rescues, trainees and veterans alike must keep up with the latest in fighting fires. Modern construction and synthetic fillings in furniture burn much faster than old-fashioned, natural fillings like feathers and cotton, changing the game for rescuers.

BOB BANGERTER

“Firefighter” is the official job title, but the men—and one woman—of the MCFD do a heck of a lot more.

MauiMagazine.net

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Even a seemingly simple car fire can pose serious risk— not just from fuels, but from highly flammable plastics used in today’s vehicles.

TOP: HAVANA BLACKBURN; FROM LEFT: MIKE NEUBAUER, KIMBERLEY K. MULLEN, JOHN GIORDANI, KIMBERLEY K. MULLEN

From left: Mark Pokini at a recent ropes training. A firefighter checks a roof’s integrity. Amos Lonokailua-Hewett is geared for action. Chainsaws prove handy for slicing holes in buildings for ventilation.

Recruits train for these kinds of fires at the department’s liveburn facility in Kahului. The morning I’m there, thick smoke billows from a retrofitted storage container. The flames building inside the corrugated metal walls release a steady crackle that’s getting louder by the minute. In an instant, a yellow fire engine turns the corner and speeds towards the sizzling structure. A rugged choreography ensues: three men get to work stretching the 150foot hose, two others haul and hoist ladders against the building, someone bangs on the container’s roof with a heavy metal hook to check the structure’s integrity, and another uses a chainsaw to slice holes in the roof for ventilation. With the smoke and heat now rushing skyward, firefighters on the ground dart into the building, retrieve a training dummy, then tame the flames into a pile of ash. Today’s drill is part of the program that works towards transforming new hires into full-fledged firefighters. It begins in recruit class, a kind of “boot camp meets S.A.T. prep course” that lasts six to seven months. Days are spent simulating emergencies, like dousing 1,100 gallons of live jet fuel at Kahului International Airport,

or leaping off cliffs to practice for rough-water entries. The department includes about 300 firefighters, and earning a spot within these ranks is a feat in itself. “Out of the thousand or so people who apply, the department may pull fifteen to thirty firefighters, depending on openings,” says Yatsushiro. “They’re people who come from all kinds of backgrounds; the joke is that you could probably build a house from the ground up just with the experience we have within the fire department.” Then there’s the classroom work, where recruits thumb through a manual the size of a telephone book. From medical responses to building construction to the science behind different kinds of fire, the trainees develop a mental cache of emergency responses. “I studied harder through my six months of recruit class than I ever studied in four years of college,” recalls firefighter Jon Duncan, who works out of the Kahului station. “As soon as you step into the station and that tone goes off and there’s an actual emergency, everything you’ve learned in training is racing through your head. Every single call is a call you’ve been training for your entire career.” Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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TOP LEFT: BOB BANGERTER; MIKE NEUBAUER

Clockwise from top left: Taming a brush fire. Getting familiar with ropes equipment during a recent training on Mauiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s North Shore. Thermal imaging cameras reveal areas of heat through smoke and darkness.

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 ISLAND PORTRAIT 

So high is the caliber of Maui County’s program that colleagues from across the state travel here to hone their skills.

FROM TOP: ALIKA APANA, KIMBERLEY K. MULLEN, MIKE NEUBAUER

From top: A firefighter contemplates the line he’ll take during ropes training at Polipoli Springs State Recreation Area. Pete Napolitano (in red) and crew assist a victim. Thermal imaging cameras can detect body heat, and are often used to find people trapped inside a smoky structure.

Battalion Chief Amos Lonokailua-Hewett says that no other fire department in Hawai‘i has been able to match the number of disciplines and recurring training that MCFD conducts annually. So high is the caliber of Maui County’s program that colleagues from across the state travel here to hone their skills. “We have a lot of talent within our department, so we created a cadre system to identify stars in certain disciplines and bring them forward to lead the training,” Lonokailua-Hewett explains. Pokini is a prime example. He was an early adopter of tow-in surfing when the sport began in the late 1990s. When big-wave contests are held on Maui, organizers call on Pokini and his Jet Ski to keep the surfers safe. “I still have my personal Jet Ski that I use during my free time,” says Pokini. “I’m teaching something that I love to do on my day off.” Like Pokini, Kahului firefighter Pete Napolitano brings his off-duty passion into the workplace. Napolitano leads rope rescue training, and has traveled across the U.S. and Canada for advanced study, relaying those skills to firefighters here. Ropes courses weren’t being offered when he joined the department in 1991, but it’s a specialty he’s relied on to save lives throughout his career. Napolitano recalls a time his crew was called to Polipoli Springs State Recreation Area at around 1 a.m. for a man who had fallen off a seventy-foot cliff. “The only way to recover him was to use a rope rescue system,” says Napolitano. “He fell head first, so with the injuries he had, if we didn’t get to him, he probably would’ve died.” Scaling a cliff in pitch darkness, with just flashlights to check the rugged surroundings, is as challenging as it sounds. Napolitano says, “That’s where the training pays off. “We’ve held rope rescue training at night, and pulling something like this off in the dark comes down to knowing your equipment,” he says. “We show up to work and anything can happen at any time, and we’re expected to solve any problem. The nature of firefighters is that they’ll do whatever it takes to get the job done, but it all starts with being prepared.” WEB EXCLUSIVE: To see them in action, visit MauiMagazine.net/maui-firefighters. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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DEMAND BETTER SOLAR™

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 MAUI STYLE 

STORY BY JUDY EDWARDS

Yes, Maui’s beaches are famous for their beauty. Red sand, white sand, gold sand, black sand—it’s an embarrassment of riches. And yes, sometimes it is tempting to take a book, or a nap, under a tree in the lovely light of late afternoon, or pull up a chair and pour a glass of something tasty while you simply enjoy the view. But while Maui’s beaches are certainly perfect for doing “nothing,” they also give us the world’s most stunning settings for doing something. PHOTO BY FRANCK BERTHOUT

All-around waterman Kai Lenny has won more world championships than you can shake a paddle at. We asked the Maui native to recommend his favorite stand-up paddle beach here. His answer’s inside. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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BEST SNORKELING BEACH: KAHEKILI

Marine conservationist Liz Foote is the founder and executive director of Project S.E.A.-Link; her day job is promoting healthy oceans and reefs. When I ask her to name Maui’s best snorkeling beach, Liz laughs, because, really? This is Maui. When I lean on her to choose, she says, “A top contender would be Kahekili Beach Park in Kā‘anapali. I helped advocate for the Kahekili Herbivore Fisheries Management Area there. Throughout the years it has topped the list of beaches with the most variety of fishes, based on citizen science surveys.” Kahekili Beach Park has bathrooms, showers and a long, golden beach with the reef just feet offshore. Get there in the morning,

before afternoon trade winds start creating currents. Liz points out that, “Unlike many other protected areas, this is not no-take, noaccess or no-fishing: fishermen and snorkelers are welcome here.” It’s just that some fish, like parrotfish and surgeonfish—herbivores that graze primarily on coral-smothering algae—are legally protected. “It’s great,” says Liz, “to see people on Maui motivated to take care of the snorkel spots that they love, like Kahekili. And in the six years it has been protected, fish numbers there have come up.” Keep an eye out for elegant triggerfish, slender bird and saddle wrasses, the obviously named orangespine unicornfish, and lavender tangs—among the five most common fish on the reef. Feeling lucky? Try to find an elusive flying gurnard, or spotted eagle rays, or maybe even a rare, endangered, hawksbill turtle. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON MOORE

MauiMagazine.net

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« MAUI STYLE »

Kahekili Beach Park’s real beauty lies offshore, where herbivores like the redlip parrotfish and convict tang (above) clean algae from the reef—a welcome sight for corals and snorkelers alike.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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BEST RUNNING BEACH: SUGAR BEACH Matt Holton is a volunteer assistant coach for the Kīhei Charter Track and Field team. He’s also come in first among Hawai‘i residents at the Honolulu Marathon—three years running. Who better to call about the best running beach on Maui? He says, “One of my favorite beaches to run, because there is so much space, is three-mile-long Sugar Beach in North Kīhei, preferably at low tide. No other beaches are that open and away from traffic. I start by the canoe club around 6:30 a.m.

When the waves are breaking, but not too big, there are glassy barrels along the shoreline, tide pools on the Mā‘alaea side to explore, canoe races to watch, and the chance of seeing whales during the season. I’m always drawn to the background noise of waves on the shore. Like running, it has a rhythm. And I appreciate being off of paved surfaces. I’ve run [Sugar Beach] with shoes and without, but the feeling of sand going through your toes—it has that feel and that connectivity.” PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN GIORDANI

MauiMagazine.net

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« MAUI STYLE »

Morning rush hour along Sugar Beach in North Kīhei— no honking required. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« MAUI STYLE »

MauiMagazine.net

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JOHN GIORDANI

BEST STAND-UP PADDLE BEACH: KANAHĀ

According to his website, twenty-three-year-old waterman Kai Lenny learned to surf at four, windsurf at six, stand-up surf and stand-up paddleboard (SUP) at seven, and kite surf at nine. Kai’s name means “ocean” in Hawaiian, and he has grown to fully inhabit his name. I caught up with Kai just as he returned from Europe and he was kind enough to fight jet lag and chat about what he considers the best Maui beach for SUP. Kai says he goes all over Maui to find flat water or great waves for paddling, even out to the legendary surf break “Jaws,” where he once saw a massive tiger shark and had to decide, as he put it, “what you are more comfortable with, a giant shark or a giant wave.” But his favorite user-friendly beach to SUP is Kanahā Beach Park. “It’s just really fun for going out and catching a ton of waves” he enthuses. “In the early morning there is

no wind; it’s just a sheet of glass. Once I saw a manta ray there so big under my board that I thought a huge rug had fallen off a boat. It just dwarfed my seven-and-a-half-foot board and went under me; it was magic.” His advice? “If you have the right gear and knowledge, your experience is going to be better and you’re not going to get into trouble. First visit a local surf shop like Hi-Tech Surf Sports, which can tune you into the right gear. And always check with lifeguards to make sure the ocean is safe that day. Wear an ankle leash to secure the board to you, and be aware of your surroundings. “SUP is the only water sport in the world that you can do on any kind of water, fresh or salt. I can go anywhere on the planet and know I will get a good workout and have fun. It’s kinda like the Swiss Army knife of surf sports.” PHOTO BY FRANCK BERTHOUT

Ironwood trees line Kanahā Beach as Kai Lenny heads into the blue. The inset photo reveals another perk of this North Shore beach: clear views of West Maui’s mountain. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 ADVENTURE 

Story by RICK CHATENEVER Photography by BRUCE WHEELER

Behind the wheel of her “World Peace” cruiser, Jill Kollist burns rubber in the pre-staging area’s water box.

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d that’s a good an — ag dr a s e’ lif , rk Pa ay ew ac R At Maui

thing.

Flame paint jobs go back to the early days of hot rods, but there’s no proof they make the cars go faster. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Burning rubber in the wetteddown pre-staging area makes tires stickier and improves traction. Cars behind wait their turns in the qualifying rounds.

It’s probably just as well if the rental-car company doesn’t know what I was doing in its Dodge Charger a few Saturdays ago. Going from zero to ninety-five mph in just under fifteen seconds (14.9305, to be exact) is probably prohibited in the fine print of the contract, like taking the back road to Hāna. But going ninety-five— or twice that fast if you can—is what the Valley Isle Timing Association’s monthly drag races are all about. They’re held at Maui Raceway Park on Mokulele Highway, a few miles from the sugar mill. “The draw of the sport is just going fast,” says association president Shane Yamashita. “The need for speed.” But while an officially sanctioned quarter-mile drag race takes place in little more time than it takes to read this sentence, there’s more than just spinning your wheels to this hybrid of sport, technology and attitude. Before Elvis, before rock ‘n’ roll, souped-up cars signaled the arrival of a new generation in post-war America. Technology that was learned in servicing warplanes was applied to making the family sedan or old jalopy go faster. And then they raced—in hastily called, highly illegal contests in Southern California dry lakebeds and concrete aqueducts—or on city streets and rural highways across America. On movie screens it was James Dean behind the wheel, a rebel without a cause other than going fast enough to outrun his demons. What is now Maui Raceway Park was part of the old Pu‘unēnē Air Station military landing strip during World War II, recalls Mark Caires, one of the park directors and official race starter. It was converted to a drag strip in 1963, making it one of the oldest west of the Rockies. “It started when a core group of racers took it off the street, and took it to the racetrack,” says Caires. Association membership is now between 150 and 180, from racers in their seventies to youngsters ten or eleven. They compete in various car and motorcycle classes, from

barely modified family sedans to exotic 1,000-horsepower dragsters and half-size ones with souped-up lawn mower engines for the kids. They race on two lanes a quarter-mile (1,320 feet) long. Between them is the “Christmas tree,” a T-shaped support mounted with a set of lights for each driver. The top light indicates when each car is in the pre-staging area, where they spin their tires in water to get them sticky for maximum adhesion. The next light indicates when the cars reach the starting line. Then the lights start flashing down the pole at half-second intervals: amber . . . amber . . . amber . . . GREEN! You don’t want to be standing still when the light turns green, but you can’t cross the starting line early. A perfect reaction time is .500 second, which should begin with the last amber light—which is where you found me at the beginning of this story, wearing one very cool helmet and sitting in the shotgun seat of the rented Dodge. My designated driver is Mike Rice, Western States director for the National Hot Rod Association, which sanctions the race. Based in Southern California, Mike spends most weekends visiting tracks in a half-dozen states, authorizing facilities and vehicles. A big challenge these days is providing a safe alternative to the eyepopping street racing glorified in the billion-dollar Fast & Furious movie franchise or on reality-TV shows like Street Outlaws. He barely spins the tires in the pre-staging area before we slowly approach the Christmas tree, coming to a stop as the amber lights . . . begin . . . to . . . And we’re off ! Our car breaks the starting-line light beam .5778 seconds after the light turns green. Fractions of seconds expand in slow motion. It’s not the centrifugal, nausea-inducing head snap of an amusement-park ride, but

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 ADVENTURE 

Colored lights blink down the “Christmas tree” at half-second intervals, but that doesn’t mean the two columns are synchronized. When each starts depends on its car’s official elapsed time.

From top: A Tasmanian Devil gas cap helps fuel the humor that keeps racing fun. At the starting line, Camaros of different vintage get ready to put pedal to the metal. Shayne Yamashita (left), Valley Isle Timing Association president; and Mark Caires, a park director and official race starter

more a jolt of adrenaline rushing up your spine, filling your chest. The first two seconds are the initial rush. “After that, everything slows down, like you’re going for a ride,” says Mike. “It’s very addictive. The faster you go just makes you want to go faster.” It’s over in less than fifteen seconds. Fifteen seconds more, and you want to do it again. A day at the drags begins in the afternoon with test-and-tune runs, followed by qualifying heats that clock each vehicle from start to finish. That duration, called elapsed time (ET), is used to measure the vehicle’s performance. Unlike heads-up racing, where both cars leave the starting line at the same time and the first one to the finish wins, Maui has bracket racing, which handicaps the cars on the basis of their elapsed times. So the light turns green in one lane before it does in the other. (To keep drivers from taking an unfair advantage, their ET also serves as a speed limit that they can’t exceed in the elimination run. Races have been won and lost in a thousandth of a second, more than one driver tells me.) Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 ADVENTURE 

Classic autos bring a sense of nostalgia to the races, from Detroit muscle cars to a souped-up VW Beetle.

Ready . . . Set . . . Go! WHERE Maui Raceway Park is on Mokulele Highway, three miles south of

Kahului, on land adjacent to the Pu‘unēnē National Guard Armory. Watch for the signs. WHEN The Valley Isle Timing Association hosts drag races July 23, August

20, September 17, October 22, and concludes its 2016 season November 18 and 19. Gates open at 1:30 p.m., with tests and tuning at 2:30 p.m. Qualifying races start at 5:30 p.m.

FEES General admission $10, students/seniors $8, children 10 and under free INFO Visit MRP.org or Maui Raceway Park on Facebook; e-mail vita@mrp.org; or call 808-281-1273.

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Anatomy of a takeoff: First, make tires sticky in pre-staging. When rear wheels have maximum traction at the starting line, front wheels “get air.”

Clockwise from left: In the parking lot, a chance to peek under the hood is an extra perk for car geeks. A Ford named NightMare rears into action. At sixty, Rick Lanham still races his flame-studded Kawasaki. Skids from countless drag races mark the track as far as the eye can see.

Elimination heats begin sometime after 7 p.m., and there are three ways to lose, explains Rice: Crossing the starting line early, getting beaten to the finish line, or beating your elapse time, which is called breaking out. “Speed and power are important, but so is the race itself,” says sixty-year-old motorcycle racer Rick Lanham. “I love giving a competitor a four-and-a-half-second lead . . . then runnin’ ‘em down.” Nurse Jill Kollist loves the thrill of winning in the fast-gas division; her car is painted with the slogan “World Peace in 2021.” “I think it’s a ’72 Nova,” she says of the exotic machine. “I know nothing about cars. I leave all that to my husband. I just drive it.” The drags are their own little world. A group of Ford Mustang owners drive to the track, change tires and race all night, then put the street tires back on and drive home. Another racer brings his motorcycle in a horse trailer. At the other end of the spectrum are a $250,000 Lamborghini, and Ricky Kamatani’s brand-new, $70,000 Race Tech 1,040-horsepower dragster, driven by his son-in-law, Corey Yamashita. As opposed to Fast & Furious stereotypes, drag racing is a family affair. Middle-aged men who discovered it in their teens now share it with their kids. The other focus is safety. “Street racing will always be there, but

our objective is to get as much people as we can off the street,” says Caires. “One of our mission statements is to produce a safe racing environment for everyone.” There are strict insurance specifications for guardrails and other safety features, and a paramedic is onsite whenever there’s racing. In fact, the night I’m there, the Lamborghini crashes into the guardrail, the front of its carbon-fiber body “shattering into a million pieces,” according to witnesses. The driver is out of the car and sitting on the rail by the time help arrives. He’s taken to the hospital for tests and released a short time later. “On O‘ahu, when they lost their track, there were a lot more fatalities and a lot more street racing,” says Yamashita. On the Mainland, sanctioned drag racing is more computerized, constantly measuring weather conditions for adjustments to the vehicles. In contrast, “Going to a drag race on Maui is like going to a drag race on the Mainland in the seventies,” says Bruce Wheeler, longtime local resident and the track’s de facto photographer. “People come from the Mainland, from Canada, and they’re just blown away,” concludes Yamashita. “They don’t expect to find a track . . . in the middle of the ocean. It’s basically the island feel, the people and the surroundings. When you look up at the West Maui Mountains or Haleakalā, it’s beautiful.” Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

How could we dedicate an issue to all things hot about Hawai‘i and not include Pele? The volcano goddess is as renowned for her fiery passions as for the molten lava with which she creates new land.

STORY

RITA

GOLDMAN

ILLUSTRATION

Unless you count Lō‘ihi—a seamount that won’t breach the ocean’s surface for tens of thousands of years—Hawai‘i Island is the only spot in the archipelago with active volcanoes. So it seems only natural to associate that place, in particular, with Pele. But of course, Hawai‘i’s volcano goddess can make her home anywhere in the Islands she pleases; as myth or metaphor, she created them. And although Haleakalā hasn’t erupted in more than two centuries, Maui plays a pivotal role in her legend. That story begins in the South Pacific. Like the first Hawaiians, Pele came here by canoe, a voyager from afar. In his book Pele and Hiiaka, missionary son and scholar Nathaniel Emerson identifies the mystical floating island of Kuaihelani as the place of her birth—and the place from which she fled her older sister, the sea goddess Namakaokaha‘i. In one version of this ancient tale, Pele falls in love with Namakaokaha‘i’s

MATT

FOSTER

husband, igniting her sibling’s wrath. Accompanied by several of her brothers and an egg containing her unborn baby sister, Hi‘iaka, Pele escapes in a double-hulled canoe and flees north, her older sister in hot pursuit. “They go all the way up to the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, then to Ni‘ihau, and work their way down the chain to Hawai‘i Island,” says Kapono‘ai Molitau, a Maui chanter and kumu hula (hula teacher). “On each island, Pele digs a firepit to build a home—only to have Namakaokaha‘i arrive and extinguish the flames, chasing her off.” When Pele reaches Maui, she builds her home high up on Haleakalā, in a cinder cone named Pu‘uopele (hill of Pele). So tall a volcano is beyond Namakaokaha‘i’s reach, but one day when Pele descends to Hāna, her sister is waiting. “Pele is still mortal at this point,” says Kau‘i Kanaka‘ole, whose family hails from Hawai‘i Island, and whose lineage

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« HAWAIIAN SOUL » Below: A sea cliff rises beside Kōkī Beach in Hāna, looking out towards ‘Ālau Island, a state bird sanctuary. The cliff’s name, Kaiwiopele, means “the bones of Pele,” and recalls an ancient battle between the volcano goddess and her sea-goddess sister. Left: That conflict still rages along Hawai‘i Island’s Puna Coast, where molten lava from Kīlauea Volcano spills into the ocean.

nomenon,” he says; one visible today when magma from Kīlauea Volcano flows into the ocean along Hawai‘i Island’s Puna Coast. Now bring your focus to the human scale. In Hawaiian culture, where no separation exists between humans and the natural world, Pele’s fight with Namakaokaha‘i is a coming-of-age story. “Her death is part of Pele’s maturation,” says Kanaka‘ole. “The hallmark of Hawaiian culture is the family, and your parents aren’t your only teachers; everybody has an important role in raising the child. It seems the older siblings are the ones who challenge you the most. When you’re the older, you know the life lessons your younger siblings need to learn. Sometimes you have to make them happen. Namakaokaha‘i, the older sister, was already in her god self. The battle at Kaiwiopele helped Pele lose her physical body and become a god.” Molitau concurs, adding, “I don’t see it as [uniquely] Hawaiian. No matter where you come from, older siblings have an interesting way of making things tough for the younger person. Sagas like Pele’s are parallel to our own families. We have beautiful ‘ohana we care for, and also amazing debates and fights. From those lessons, the younger person grows strong.” Kapono‘ai Molitau is a cultural practitioner and the owner of Native Intelligence, a retail shop in Wailuku featuring Hawaiian crafts and design. Molitau was featured in the article “Giving Voice to a Culture” in the March-April 2008 issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine. Kau‘i Kanaka‘ole is executive director of Ala Kukui cultural retreat in Hāna.

BOB BANGERTER

as a kumu hula is that of Pele. “Namakaokaha‘i and Pele battle, and the sister tears her apart. The hillside where her bones are buried is called Kaiwiopele, ‘the bones of Pele.’ After the death of her physical form, Pele grows into her god self and travels in her spirit form to the Big Island, where she makes her home to this day.” “Namakaokaha‘i thinks she has killed her sister,” says Molitau. “Then she sees [the smoke] at Halema‘uma‘u [on Hawai‘i Island] and understands that Pele [now a goddess] is still alive. The mo‘olelo, the story, isn’t over. Pele in her magma form is still creating land, and Namakaokaha‘i is still waiting at the ocean.” Like so much else in Hawaiian lore, Pele’s story is rich with layers of meaning. On the planetary scale, her journey allegorically traces the geological evolution of the islands themselves, beginning with the oldest, Kure Atoll, in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, and ending at the youngest, Hawai‘i Island, at the chain’s southeastern tip. Consider that. A thousand years before western science deduced tectonic plates, and that the Pacific Plate slides over a hotspot in the Earth’s crust, leaving a string of volcanic islands in its wake, early Polynesians—a Stone Age people—comprehended the archipelago’s chronology. Bring your focus closer, and the battle between the two goddesses becomes a metaphor for the clash between two of nature’s elemental forces. “Namakaokaha‘i is of the ocean,” says Molitau. “Pele is of the land. When these two meet, big explosions. It is a wondrous pheMauiMagazine.net

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« ARTISTS ON LOCATION »

“What happens with glass, it’s so instantaneous. It’s a turn-on material,” says Bill Worcester. To prove the point, he offers me a lesson. “Get ready to be seduced,” he warns. My classroom is a high-ceilinged steel building, just up the road from Morihara Store in Kula. Two furnaces are cranking at 1,900 degrees. The first holds a clay-lined pot with molten glass that Bill gathers on the end of a blowpipe. Once the hot blob is stuck to the pipe, gravity demands constant rotation, otherwise the glass will sag and droop like honey on a knife. And then it’s a dance: shaping the glass till it starts to cool too much; placing it in the second furnace, called the “glory hole,” where it reheats

to a workable temperature; time at the bench to inflate the piece with long puffs of air, or to change its shape with tools that cradle, punch, or pull; a turn at the color station to add flecks of blue powder to the hot glass; and back to the first furnace to gather another layer. Repeat as necessary. Hours later, my simple paperweight slowly cools in the annealing oven. A few days later I have a session in the “not hot” shop to grind the bottom flat. Thanks to my expert tutor, I have a small round object with strands of aqua blue and my breath captured inside, and even more curiosity about the history of glass on Maui.

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lten Ar t

T he M o

Like these islands, glass begins in a hot, fluid state. The art is in what happens next.

Art as revelation: After hand blowing this red fern vase, Mike Worcester carved through its color layers with diamond wheels, then finished with sandblasting.

Story by TEYA PENNIMAN Photography by RYAN SIPHERS Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« ARTISTS ON LOCATION »

WORCESTER GLASSWORKS Nearly fifty years ago, Bill Worcester peered out at giant sea fans from a tiny submersible 1,200 feet below the surface. What he couldn’t see from that porthole was that his life as an oceanographer was about to change, thanks to a studio art movement that was developing in Honolulu. Bill gained access to a “funky” glass furnace and was hooked. His wife, Sally, soon joined the action. A path once focused on the mysteries of the ocean shifted to creations formed from a very different kind of liquid. After building a studio in Oregon and later launching Hot Island Glass in Makawao, the Worcesters came home; their current studio lies mere steps from their house. Their son, Mike, made his first glass sale when he was just seven; he rejoined the business in 2005 after running his own shop in California. Today, Worcester Glassworks is truly a family affair. What inspires these artists individually, and what’s it like working together? Sally tags Mother Nature as her muse. “It might be a group of colors in the desert or plants that have arranged themselves in a color pattern,” she says. Her technique, though, is based on physics and chemistry. She uses the “tri-hue” method, taught by Maui artist Dick Nelson, which employs only the three colors used in printing—yellow, cyan and magenta—to make any color of the rainbow. Sally has adapted what began as a watercolor method into “painting on glass.” Each gather from the furnace and addition of powder creates the desired colors: the viewer will see green on the portions of the “canvas” where Sally has added yellow to a base layer of cyan. Her finished piece might have thirty layers of colored glass and include a hundred stops at the glory hole. In what Bill and Mike call her “Monet” pieces, Sally’s successive placements of colored powder appear as short, fluid brushstrokes on the surface, while clear layers and variations in density make light a central component of the work. “Glass and light are the best friends in the world,” she says. Several years ago Sally was attempting to create a glass ipu, or gourd. One trial piece languished in the garden for several months, until Bill sandblasted the surface. The result was so organic looking that local art jurors thought it was stoneware. Art Maui featured the gourd on its annual poster and the State Foundation on Culture and the Arts purchased it. A new direction

2 1. Mike used the “graal” technique to create this vase: After blowing, etching and grinding the piece, he reheated it, added layers of clear glass, then blew it into its final shape. 2. Reheating the glass at the “glory hole.” 3. This World War II steam kettle once cooked Navy meals; Bill turned it into a doubleended glory hole. 4. A heated tungsten rod created the holes for this red abalone bowl. 5. Mike smooths carved edges. 6. While Sally and Bill look on, Mike reheats and fire-polishes a vessel after cold-working its surface. 7. Sally’s sandblasted ipu (gourd) with waxed linen necklace. The taro leaves are all that remain of the original surface. 8. Mike ground away portions of this bowl’s red and white layers before carving curved lines in it with a diamond lathe. 9. Four eyes are better than two: last checks for imperfections.

3 4

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6 7

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opened for Sally and Bill with Hawaiian-themed ceremonial vessels. Son Mike says he learned glassblowing “by osmosis.” His passion for the ocean (and surfing) inspires his shell- and wave-shaped pieces, and also infuses the way he plays with surface and color. “At sunrise or sunset you get these great colors that dapple on the wavelets,” he says. Spot additions of color mimic the fine markings of a fish. He captures the wrap of swell lines around the island by carving into the glass. Lately, he’s working on a ripply look, a view of the ocean from below, with foamy layers of blue and green and the sense of a surface worn down by waves or hands. “I want people to pick these things up and feel them,” he says. After forty-seven years of active production, Bill describes his current role as a “glorified janitor.” Sally and Mike protest, pointing out recent sales of Bill’s art, but agree that his technical know-how and inventiveness keep the shop humming. Bill’s creative influence remains very much part of the mix as the three share critiques. “It’s a perfect symbiosis,” says Sally. “We help each other to grow and discover new things about ourselves, the world and the glass. If someone had told me when I was a child [that I would be doing this], I would have thought it was a fairy tale.” Worcester Glassworks is open Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Sundays by appointment—but call ahead. When the furnace is on, you can watch glass in the making. 4626 Lower Kula Road, Kula | 808-878-4000 | WorcesterGlassworks.com STRINI ART GLASS Medusa-like chandeliers and giant jellyfish hang from above, while iridescent vases and mosaic art pieces fill the shelves and walls of Rick Strini’s studio. The light-filled building faces into trade winds on a bluff above Ha‘ikū’s north shore, an apt setting for the man who forty years ago sailed to Maui on a trimaran he had built. That self-reliance and willingness to explore new territory may be the genesis for the riot of color and fanciful forms that emerges from the Strini furnaces. Ceramics was Rick’s first medium, but his kiln work shifted after he saw his brother working with glass. “The way I do glass,” he says, “is old school,” keeping six colors hot at all times, each in a separate

crucible in the furnace. “Most other artists use clear glass and pick up bits of color that are cold,” using powder, chips or bars, but Rick prefers the evenness he gets from layering with hot colors. “Old school” also captures his reverence for early glass masters. One of his signature styles is luster glass. More than a century ago, Louis C. Tiffany and Frederick Carder separately perfected an iridescent finish by treating molten glass with metallic oxides. Rick says the “hugely complex” process almost disappeared because only a handful of people knew all the steps. After ten years of trial and error, he mastered the technique, which requires exact weighing of the elements, getting proportions correct, and proper melting and handling. He eventually sussed out adding a luxurious green to his palette of blue and gold lusters. He still loves working with it. “When it comes out good, it’s unbelievably sexy.” Still the explorer, Rick continues to develop new responses to changing environments. “I had a huge market on the mainland for seconds, pieces with a slight blemish,” he says. It’s a market not present on a small island like Maui, so he started “upcycling” —making something from the residual glass left after a piece detaches from the blowpipe. He liked the effect so much he started making and cutting up glass to create new pieces. This multiphase approach shows up in his wall art, door panels, and even a sink. He first makes a rondel, a blown piece spun into a circular shape. Once that cools, he cuts off the edges, arranging them in patterns with other pieces of clear or colored glass, and then fuses them together in his furnace. He then places the fused glass into or over a mold in a kiln heated to 1,500 degrees; the glass softens and “slumps” into the finished shape, perhaps a bowl or lamp. Remains from the rondels find new life as tile elements in wall art. Today, more than 90 percent of his work involves “intentionally lit” pieces. He’s always thinking, “How’s it going to look with light on it?” Some of his massive chandeliers are complex creations, with colored forms tied together onto an iron framework. His lamps, wall sconces and chandeliers help set the tone and ambience of numerous Maui restaurants, including Mama’s Fish House and Bistro Casanova. Even with five decades of experience, the final result isn’t always predictable. Rick still finds joy when that “happy controlled accident” brings some new discovery or direction. Strini Art Glass is open to visitors by appointment only. 808572-6283 | StriniArtGlass.com. His art is also on display at Maui Crafts Guild, 120 Hāna Highway, Pā‘ia | 808-579-9697 | www. MauiCraftsGuild.com

LEFT: CARL SHANEFF; RIGHT: BILL FARNSWORTH

Left: Rick Strini opens and spins a rondel in one rapid movement before the glass cools and goes into the annealing oven. Above: Threading hot glass onto a moil for shaping into a cup.

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« ARTISTS ON LOCATION » Clockwise from left: This jellyfish lamp’s tentacles hook into its top. A ruffled bowl is part of Rick Strini’s Aquarium series, created with lemon, white and turquoise color layers. The artist holds a platter—a mosaic made from bits of blown glass that are fused, then slumped. Rick dripped and swirled color onto molten glass to create this gold luster lampshade. His Jungle chandelier required more than fifty pieces of hand-crafted glass. A ruby-red pendant lampshade, also decorated by hand.

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Think Small

Since the 1970s, the average American household has shrunk some 20 percent, down from three people to two-and-a-half. If this were a movie, you could call it The Incredible Shrinking Householdâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;except that, while they were losing half a person, our homes got a lot bigger. According to the U.S. Census Bureau, the average single-family home has grown by more than 40 percent. What goes in there, of course, is all our stuff. (Apparently we still donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have enough room. The U.S. has between 2.3 and 2.63

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« AT HOME »

Tiny homes are becoming a hot new trend. The big question is, why? Story by Heidi Pool | Photography by Kailea Frederick

billion square feet of rentable storage space—equivalent to three Manhattan Islands and a football field or two.) Lately, some folks have begun to move in the opposite direction, into tiny houses, defined as smaller than 400 square feet, most often around 200 square feet. Enough folks, in fact, that, across the country, tiny houses are becoming a big deal. For some, it’s a philosophical choice, a commitment to living more simply and reducing one’s environmental impact. For others,

it’s a pragmatic answer to the high cost of housing. The tiny-home lifestyle comes with its own set of costs— from downsizing one’s possessions, to embracing the concept of composting toilets—but with the median price of a home in Maui County exceeding $550,000, and rents skyrocketing with no end in sight, our island paradise is in the midst of an affordable-housing crisis. Could tiny houses be a solution? Two Maui entrepreneurs think so. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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With a footprint of 160 square feet, it’s the same size as the average single-car garage.

THE CUSTOM TINY HOME The Kula home Kalani Iselin and Kailea Frederick share has features you’d expect to find in a custom-built house: hardwood ﬂooring, open-beam ceiling, granite countertop, and a stone-tiled bathroom. But with a footprint of 160 square feet, plus an 80-square-foot sleeping loft, it’s the same size as the average single-car garage. And it’s entirely off the grid. “We have solar electricity, our stove is powered

by propane, and we get our water from a garden hose,” Kalani says. Kalani built the home himself, with help from business partner Adam Anderson. Their company, Island Tiny Homes, has a second house under construction, and a third on order. Kalani hatched the idea at a family gathering. “Adam is my half-sister’s half-sister’s fiancé,” Kalani says with a grin, “and he has a building background like I do.”

Having never been inside a tiny house, I didn’t know what to expect when I visited Kalani and Kailea. Outside, the trailer-mounted home looks like a charming dollhouse on steroids. Indoors, it’s surprisingly spacious, and doesn’t feel at all claustrophobic, even with three of us inside. “We have friends over all the time,” says Kailea. “We just have to be creative about where everyone sits. We’ve entertained as many as six people at once.”

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« AT HOME »

Left: Kalani Iselin and Kailea Frederick at the entrance to their Kula home. Like Dr. Who’s TARDIS, the house seems bigger inside than out. Above: Thoughtful window placement and a glass-paneled front door provide cross-ventilation, ensuring a comfortable night’s sleep in the loft, a light and airy living/dining room. Below: The kitchen cabinets are solid, sustainably harvested cherrywood; shelving and backsplash came from a tree Kalani milled himself. Wood paneling inside and out creates a look Kalani calls “Upcountry farm chic.”

OPPOSITE & RIGHT (3): JOHN GIORDANI

Top: What the loft lacks in height it more than makes up for in views. Above: Stairs to the loft provide storage; the tallest serves as an extra closet. Below: At thirty-two square feet, the bathroom is large enough for two people. The ample shower has wood-paneled walls painted blue—like the one Kalani’s mother grew up with in Switzerland.

Neither of them is a stranger to tiny living. Kalani attended a social-entrepreneurship program in Sweden. “This house is way bigger than that dorm room,” he says. Kailea grew up off the grid in Huelo. “My family’s home had an outhouse,” she says. “This is really luxurious compared to where I was raised.” She notes that living in a tiny house requires a change in mindset and lifestyle.

“I don’t think everyone can do it, but I think anyone can and should ask themselves how much stuff they actually need to go through life and still be satisfied,” she says. The couple’s home is parked on a property belonging to Kalani’s family. The property also houses an abundant garden, a flock of chickens, and even a beehive. “We purchase very little from the store—mostly grains and coffee,” says Kalani. Being able Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 AT HOME  to harvest fresh vegetables, eggs and honey also helps when you have only a mini fridge to stock. Kalani also uses their tiny house as a model home for his business, sometimes transporting it to the Saturday morning farmers’ market in Pukalani. “You should see the looks we get from people when we drive by,” he laughs. He and Kailea hope property owners will embrace the tiny-home movement as an affordable way to increase the number of rental houses. “The climate here is perfect for tiny houses,” says Kailea. “Tiny living makes you want to go out and do things more often. It’s a lifestyle shift that’s subtle, but very sweet.” THE STARTER TINY HOME Erik Blair also sees the tiny-house movement as a viable way to ease Maui’s affordablehousing crisis. “If we could get just 1 percent of residents into tiny houses, that’s a significant number,” he says. “We need other solutions, too, but this is certainly one of them.” Erik’s company, Simple Tiny Houses, is constructing a prototype “model home on wheels” in Kīhei. Truss Systems Hawai‘i built the frame, and Daniel Lovell, whom Erik calls his “director of the interior,” is doing just that—building out the interior. Simple Tiny Houses offers three versions of the same basic floor plan, which measures 160 square feet on the main floor with a

Above: A trailer hitch, and Kalani Iselin is ready to make house calls with prospective clients of Island Tiny Homes. Below: Although Erik Blair’s Smart car couldn’t really tow his Simple Tiny Houses prototype, it does show the wisdom of thinking small.

The Legal Lowdown In Maui County, all permanent dwellings must have a building permit issued by the Department of Public Works. The house must comply with all codes and zoning, be at least 120 square feet (not counting bathroom), and meet other requirements, such as ceiling heights of at least seven feet. The workaround here, as elsewhere in the U.S., is to place tiny houses on wheeled trailers—which also places them in the same category, and with the same restrictions, as house trailers: • They can be no wider than nine feet, no taller than fourteen feet, and no longer than forty-five feet.

• They must be insured, registered with the state’s Department of Motor Vehicles, and pass an annual safety inspection. • If completely off the grid (solar or wind power, water catchment and composting toilet), they don’t require a building permit. If connected to County water, sewer, and the power grid, they will likely require a licensed contractor and a County permit. • Tiny homes and other house trailers parked on a property must adhere to County setback requirements: ten feet away from other structures, five feet from property boundaries.

TOP: COURTESY OF ISLANDTIMEHOMES.COM; ERIK BLAIR; LEFT: JOHN GIORDANI

Even a big guy like Erik Blair can feel comfortable in a tiny house like this basic model, still in construction.

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« AT HOME »

64-square-foot sleeping loft. Buyers can purchase just the shell, the shell with exterior paint and roofing, or a custom version with hardwood flooring. “The first question prospective buyers usually ask me is, ‘Where do I put this thing?’” says Erik. “Buying land is the best option. Renting land or borrowing a tinyhouse parking spot is the next option.” Maui County regulations restrict the number of dwellings allowed per lot, based on the parcel’s size and zoning. “Generally, you’re allowed one house and one ‘ohana unit [accessory dwelling] per property,” says David Goode, Maui County’s director of public works. “Tiny houses on wheels are called ‘house trailers,’ and they count towards the allowable number of dwellings.” Goode adds that Mayor Alan Arakawa has asked the planning and public works departments to draft an ordinance that would allow accessory dwellings on smaller lots where they’re currently prohibited, and increase the number of dwellings allowed on larger lots. Such an ordinance would require County Council approval. Meanwhile, Erik Blair is focusing on the state level. He was instrumental in getting Senate Bill 3054 presented to the Hawai‘i Legislature, with help from Senators Rosalyn Baker and Gil Keith-Agaran. “This bill presents a possible legal path for ‘trailer parks’—what I refer to as ‘tiny house villages’—in Hawai‘i,” he says. “If the bill passes, we could put several tiny houses on a parcel and help more people live affordably.” Like Kalani and Kailea, Erik thinks tiny houses fit well with Maui’s indoor-outdoor lifestyle. “You go inside to cook and sleep,” he says. “The rest of the time you’re at the beach, or out enjoying everything Maui has to offer.” Another advantage of a house on wheels is the ability to escape a natural disaster. “If there’s a volcanic eruption or a tsunami, you can move your house quickly,” Erik says. “You can literally drive your house to an evacuation zone and park it there.” The tiny-house movement is about freedom, he adds. “If you don’t like the neighborhood, view, or microclimate, you can move somewhere else.”

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Between 1973 and 2010, the average U.S. home grew from 1,660 square feet to nearly 2,400.

Could You Besides the obvious challenges of living in a small space, there are other considerations when making the decision: Where will I get water? Connecting to a municipal water source requires a building permit. Some tinyhome owners combine rain catchment with purchased water. Kalani Iselin and Kailea Frederick connected their tiny house to a garden hose on the property where itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s parked. What about electricity? Again, connecting to local utilities triggers the building-permit requirement. Solar energy is the most practical solution to powering your tiny house, although, according to Kalani, the batteries are fairly expensive, and last only about five years. How will I cook? Propane is the most practical solution, and is fairly inexpensive. Kalani and Kailea use a five-gallon propane tank mounted under their trailer, refilling it every one to two months. How will I wash my clothes? There is, of course, the laundromat option. Aside from that, there are several portable clothes washers that operate without electricity. Later this year, the Toronto-based Yirego Corp. will offer the Drumi, which uses a minimal amount of water and operates via a foot pedal.

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« AT HOME »

Your best choice f� Homeowner Association Management With its year-round summer climate, Maui is a perfect location for tiny houses. And the scenic panorama fits right outside your door.

Go Tiny? What about refrigeration? Kalani and Kailea have a mini fridge that’s powered by solar electricity. Erik Blair wanted to install a propane-powered fridge in his prototype, but couldn’t find a company that would ship one to the Islands. He says some tiny-house dwellers use a YETI cooler, in which ice can last for five to seven days. How will I deal with human waste? Staying off the grid, and avoiding the need for a building permit, means a composting toilet. Kalani and Erik both favor Nature’s Head’s dry-composting toilet, which requires a composting medium such as peat moss, sawdust, or coconut coir. According to Erik, the solid contents of the composting unit need to be moved to a secondary, exterior drying tank. Liquids need to emptied in a safe spot outside, as well. Where can I find more information? • Start with the County’s planning department—specifically, its zoning administration and enforcement division. Building permits cover only the dwelling; you first need to know whether your parcel’s zoning will allow an auxiliary building. • Kalani Iselin will teach a course on tiny houses at UH–Maui College on Saturday, August 20. For details and to register, visit EdventureMaui.com, click “Search Courses” and enter: tiny houses.

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« AT HOME »

Extra space in a jiffy: The dining table folds up and latches ﬂat against the wall, while bench seating does double duty as storage bins.

RESOURCES ABC Supply Co. Inc. (custom-cut metal roofing) 446 Ala Makani St., Kahului 808-877-6507 | AbcSupply.com Island Tiny Homes Kalani Iselin 808-866-4911 | IslandTinyHomes.com Nature’s Head (composting toilet) 251-295-3043 | NaturesHead.net Pacific Millwork (custom furniture) 375 W. Kuiaha Rd., Ha‘ikū 808-575-7555 | MauiCabinetsFurniture Woodworking.com Simple Tiny Houses Erik Blair SimpleTinyHouses.com YETI (cooler) 512-394-9384 | YetiCoolers.com Yirego Corp. (foot-powered washing machine) Yirego.com

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Sheldon and Janice Simeon greet you at the counter. So does this painting of a cane worker, for sale by Maui artist Reuben Cantere Jr.

TOP CHEF FINALIST SHELDON SIMEON AND WIFE JANICE ARE THE MOM-N-POP BEHIND THIS NEW, FAMILY-STYLE RESTAURANT. Story by BECKY SPEERE | Photography by MIEKO HORIKOSHI Standing behind the counter at their spanking new restaurant, owners Sheldon and Janice Simeon beam with parental pride. Already blessed with four spirited children (Chloe, Peyton, Quinn, and Asher), they know their newest baby, Tin Roof, will require just as much love and attention. Sheldon named the restaurant for his childhood memory of rain falling on the corrugated roof of his home in Pepe‘ekeo, on the outskirts of Hilo. If you’ve been fortunate enough to experience this, you know the rain can gently pitter-patter, or thunder down so heavily, conversations stop in their tracks. Life in that small plantation town was as slow and easy as the molasses that once poured from the now-defunct Hāmākua Sugar Mill. And it was in his parents’ home—under their tin roof—that Sheldon acquired his passion for good food. “My dad used to cater parties, and me and my brother would help him. It was a family affair. Also, my aunt is a really good cook, and when I went to culinary school in Honolulu, I got to spend time with her in her kitchen.” Inspired by his plantation past, Sheldon created and honed recipes, first as executive chef of award-winning Star Noodle in Lahaina, then at MiGRANT in Wailea. Tin Roof is a family affair: a mom-and-pop café in a commercial rather than resort area, offering affordable comfort food using quality ingredients.

That’s such a hot idea, I’ve brought my own family to Tin Roof today for lunch. As I watch the bowls of deliciousness coming off the line, I see Sheldon Simeon’s art: food that is simple, yet complex in flavor; approachable, and grounded in Hawai‘i’s multicultural cuisine. Chris orders the heads-on Kaua‘i garlic “scrimps” (the menu’s slang for shrimp) over white rice with salted cabbage banchan. He digs in with chopsticks and gives the thumbs up. Tori sprinkles her “dime bag” of magic—a blend of sesame seeds, sea salt, nori, and crushed instant ramen—over her bowl of wokked dry mein (noodles) for an extra bump of flavor and texture. A cup of hot, umami broth to sip and dip the noodles into is served on the side. She devours it with pleasure. I bite into the meaty pork belly garnished with fresh Maui tomato and onion, then nibble on the perfectly cooked six-minute boiled egg that I’ve stirred into my brown rice with banana sauce. The richness of the roasted pork balances with the other ingredients. This is home cooking at its finest. Like Sheldon, Janice Simeon grew up in a close-knit Filipino family—hers in the bustling town of Lahaina. Both parents worked full-time, but at family gatherings that included grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins, home cooking was a recurring theme. The Maui girl and the Big Island boy met by chance half an ocean and a whole continent away, when both were working in Orlando, Florida, at Walt Disney World. Back in Hawai‘i, the distance felt

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Dining

Top: Kale salad with kim chee roasted peanuts and Maui onion potato chip crumbles. Above: twice-fried mochiko chicken with banchan of pickled onions. Banchan are Korean-style marinated vegetables; Tin Roof serves up to eight varieties. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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The mainstay of Tin Roof’s menu is its variety of kau kau tins (normally served in a takeout container). Shown here: pork belly with sixminute egg, roasted garlic cloves, patis (fish sauce) vinaigrette, and what Chef Sheldon jokingly calls “the other vegetable”—rice.

greater: Janice returned to Maui, and Sheldon enrolled in Leeward Community College’s culinary program on O‘ahu. A year later, they reunited on Maui. Sheldon completed his last two semesters at Maui Culinary Academy, got his first job in the industry as prep cook at Aloha Mixed Plate . . . and in 2013 gained national fame as a finalist on Bravo Channel’s Top Chef. Tin Roof has been a different kind of challenge. Janice says, “I grew up running through the frames of homes my family members were building, so understanding construction came almost naturally for me. Sheldon grew up surrounded by cooking; he could not understand construction. I learned to be more patient with him during the renovations. “When we opened, and the work shifted to cooking and operations, the roles reversed. Just like I was frustrated with him for not knowing how to hang drywall, he was frustrated with me for not knowing the restaurant business. I had been home, managing the kids and household. Prior to that, I worked behind a desk for

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Dining

Above, left to right: Jeffrey Valdez slices ‘ulu (breadfruit); Sara Jordan-Polk tidies up before opening. (Tucked in a Kahului strip mall between FedEx and Marco’s Grill & Deli, Tin Roof is easy to miss, but worth the search.) Left: Janice’s favorite “beet box”: fried roasted beets topped with pickled kale, fried beet tops and garlic aioli.

Tin Roof’s “dime bags” are flavor packets containing seaweed and other ingredients. The one at left has crushed Funyuns, mochi crunch and wasabi peas; the one below, goldfish crackers with dried cuttlefish.

Find more stories featuring Chef Sheldon Simeon in the May-Jun 2011, May-Jun 2013, and Nov-Dec 2014 issues of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, online at MauiMagazine.net.

years. I went from that to a high-paced, on-your-feet-all-day restaurant operation. “In the end, Sheldon realized he needed to be patient with my lack of experience. We are learning to work together and understand each other in ways we never had to before. It is nice that I get to see him every day, and we both work hard to have this place we built with our community in mind—where you can get ‘ono [delicious] food cooked to order, not sitting under heat lamps all day, and not break your wallet.” In the span of four hours, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tin Roof’s team of five will assemble 300 bowls, sandwiches and salads for that appreciative community. The eight-stool counter fills up quickly as patrons decide to dine in. A big, burly man with a salt-and-pepper beard sits next to me. I ask if he’s eaten here before and he answers, “Let’s see . . . I came here last week Friday and I’ve been back every day since; that’s seven days in a row. I had the chicken sandwich yesterday and it was the best I’ve ever had. It’s good and bad, because my business is right around the corner . . . I can eat here every day.” He smiles, then adds, “That could be dangerous.” Obviously an advocate for Tin Roof, he sells me on the sandwich that I didn’t know I needed. I mosey to the register a second time and order one to go. The queue at the register grows steadily and it is organized chaos, as the master, Sheldon, expedites orders, and Janice, who holds an accounting degree, calmly works the register, looking up periodically and smiling to accept congratulations from guests and friends. When my sandwich is ready, I take a bite and the chicken is garlicky with a chili-pepper and vinegar kick and a crunch from the cabbage banchan. Like the guy said, “It’s a winner.” I happily rewrap it and tuck the savory bomb into my takeaway bag to save for a snack. I know I’m not alone in feeling a deep warmth and pride for Janice and Sheldon as they work together to achieve their dreams. Their love for food and family has provided the solid foundation for this Tin Roof. Sarap! (Delicious!) Salamat! (Thank you!) 360 Papa Place, Kahului |808-868-0753 | TinRoofMaui.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Dining » HIGHLIGHTS

A Mama’s Fish House special: macadamia nut-crusted ono atop edamame pasta tossed in mac-nut basil pesto.

Perry Bateman beams as he shares a childhood memory. “When we were kids, the macadamia-nut field in Waikapū was our playground. We would play in the tall grass and pick up buckets of nuts. I think at times we ate too much,” he laughs, recalling bellyaches from devouring handfuls of the raw, crunchy morsels. Twenty years later, Bateman is the executive chef at Mama’s Fish House—and the mac nuts he buys for his recipes are harvested not far from where he grew up. Waihe‘e Valley Plantation is Hawai‘i’s largest privately owned macadamia-nut venture. Here on the North Shore, where the Central Valley curves up into West Maui’s mountain, manicured lawns grow between rows of majestic macadamia trees. Managers Shannon and Todd Arnold remember how these fields looked a decade ago, when workers waded through tall grass and crawled on their hands and knees to fill seventy-pound bags with fallen nuts, found one at a time. “I had to burrow through the grass to retrieve the bags,” Todd recalls. “It was hot, hard, ugly work.” Shannon adds, “At first we sent the nuts to the Big Island for cracking and drying; then we’d buy them back to resell.” Six years ago, they obtained equipment from Australia: a high-capacity picker, sheller, color sorter, and nut drier. “The nuts are dried at low temperatures—98 to 100 degrees—for seven to ten days,” Shannon says. “This allows us to [label] them ‘raw,’ since high temperatures haven’t destroyed the nutrients.” Soon I am on the hunt for dishes made with this local nut. MAMA’S FISH HOUSE My first stop is Mama’s, where Chef Perry has prepared a few tasting dishes. My editor, Rita Goldman, has selflessly agreed to join me. Our first course is a local baby greens salad topped with a

crunchy and savory macadamia-nut crab cake, dappled with bits of sweet Kīhei mango and avocado. We polish off the salad, stopping short of scraping the plate clean. Next: a nut-crusted ono filet served on a bed of edamame pasta that’s been tossed in macadamia-nut basil pesto; every bite is worth savoring. We are bursting at the seams when the grand finale, a sublime apple-banana macadamianut crisp topped with Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream, arrives. We glance at each other, take a deep breath and simultaneously dig our spoons into the buttery nut crust. It’s heaven in a bowl . . . and we manage to eat the whole shebang. 799 Poho Pl., Pā‘ia | 808-579-8488 | MamasFishHouse.com

TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR Shannon Arnold had told me that Tommy Bahama’s Maui venue began purchasing mac nuts from Waihe‘e Valley Plantation from the production’s get-go. The corporate chefs were so impressed, they arranged to purchase Waihe‘e nuts for the entire restaurant chain across the country. A fun appetizer, the chicken lollipops are smoky and tender, with diced macadamia nuts clinging to the At Tommy Bahama, tender jidori chicken wings go uptown with BBQ-mango-orange glaze dipped in toasted, crunchy mac nuts.

BECKY SPEERE

GO NUTS!

Chocolate-covered is just the beginning. Macadamia nuts have a shell of a lot more to offer. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

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UNCOMPROMISING SINCE 1985

NICK’S Best Service, Best Wine List SARENTO’S Most Romantic Setting

Founder/CEO Aaron Placourakis was raised around great food. And like all Greeks, he was instilled with the belief that “family” isn’t limited to close relatives, but includes all who are gathered around the table. It’s an approach that’s perfected by his team, who greet you at the door as a friend. We invite you to join us. Be a part of the family. Create unforgettable memories in the most spectacular settings on earth. And rediscover the joy of good living.

Maui’s premier seafood restaurant Happy Hour Nightly 808 879-7224 | Wailea NicksFishmarketMaui.com

Spectacular dining steps from the beach Happy Hour Nightly Serving breakfast and dinner 808 875-7555 | Kihei

SarentosOnTheBeach.com

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Dining » HIGHLIGHTS mango-orange glaze. They pair—oh, so well—with the grapefruit basil martini, as does the macadamia-crusted goat cheese drizzled with a balsamic reduction and served as a topping for crispy paprika-herb lavash. The local fresh snapper scores an A+; dredged in macadamia-nut flour with a generous spoonful of wasabi beurre blanc, it’s a Hawai‘i Regional classic. A brown butter blondie, moist and buttery with Hawaiian sea-salt caramel, is the exclamation point at the end of this superb dining experience. The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Kīhei | 808-875-9983 TommyBahama.com/Restaurants/Wailea

THE MILL HOUSE AT MAUI TROPICAL PLANTATION At this Waikapū restaurant, Executive Chef Jeff Scheer incorporates macadamia nuts into a compound nut butter to accompany the black-soy-and-sesame-flavored Korean kalbi beef. He also adds them to a house-made mortadella sausage, and has been known to toss them into his country pork paté for added texture and richness. A decadent item on the children’s menu is the grilled pumpernickel bread spread with mac-nut butter and Maui honey, topped with brûlée apple-banana slices. Cocoa added to the dough darkens and sweetens the bread and enhances the caraway and mac-nut butter. (Where’s the Fountain of Youth when you need it?!) 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū | 808-270-0333 | MillHouseMaui.com

SUGAR BEACH BAKE SHOP Located in the old Suda Store at the Kealia end of South Kīhei Road, this bakery is chockablock with baked mac-nut treats. The same folks who own Ululani’s—the ‘Aipono Award-winning shave-ice stand— create carrot cake, giant white-chocolate macadamia-nut cookies, and a smooth and rich ganache-blanketed mac-fudge brownie you’ll go just plain nuts over.

OCEANSIDE RESTAURANT The new kid on the block, Oceanside began wowing the crowds in late 2015 with a fresh kampachi crudo sprinkled generously with mac nuts, cilantro, ginger and lime. Chef Gary King, a transplant from the New York dining scene, creates menus using ingredients sourced daily. Stop in and you’ll probably find a few more of your favorite nuts baked in or topping his exquisite farm-fresh fare. Mā‘alaea Harbor Shops, 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea | 808-868-3481 OpenTable.com/Oceanside

History in a Nutshell Top: The Mill House’s kalbi beef on green-papaya-and-carrot salad with smoked mac-nut butter. Center photo (clockwise from upper left): Sugar Beach Bake Shop’s white-chocolate mac-nut cookie; cereal-nut mix; mac-nut cream pie; and chocolate ganache mac-nut fudge brownie. Bottom: Oceanside Restaurant’s kampachi crudo and toasted mac nuts drizzled with a ginger-lime sauce.

Waihe‘e Valley Plantation supplies more than two-dozen restaurants, bakeries, and food manufacturers with their produce. Next time you eat a dish with mac nuts, ask if it came from the farm. Or go buy a bag at the Upcountry Farmer’s Market, 55 Kiopa‘a Street, near Longs Drug Store in Pukalani, Saturdays, 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. Tell them Becky sent you.

Native to Australia, macadamia nuts are named for John Macadam, a nineteenth-century Scottish chemist, physician and politician who worked on laws to prevent the adulteration of food. Mac nuts arrived in Hawai‘i around 130 years ago, but “remained a delicious oddity for about 50 years, laboriously prepared and consumed only by the affluent sugar barons” who planted the trees on marginal cane land.1 In the late 1970s, Wailuku Sugar Company closed its sugar mill, changed its name to Wailuku Agribusiness, and began planting macadamia orchards in Waihe‘e and Waikapū in Maui’s Central Valley. By 1999, unable to compete with foreign producers, the company abandoned the operation, and soon after, sold the land.2 John Varel purchased 1,200 acres that became Waihe‘e Valley Plantation. “Macadamia Nuts in Hawaii: History and Production,” by Gordon T. Shigeura and Hiroshi Ooka, 1984, College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources, University of Hawai‘i.

“Ag Lands and the ‘M’ Word,” by Rob Parsons, 2007, Legacy Projects Hawai‘i.

TOP TO BOTTOM: BECKY SPEERE, JOHN GIORDANI, COURTESY OF OCEANSIDE RESTAURANT

61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | 808-757-8285 | SugarBeachBakeShop.com

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PUB: MN Client: G AD: STAY Size: FP Colors: F DUE: 05

COME FOR THE FOOD. STAY FOR THE VIEWS.

Maui’s most romantic sunsets and freshest seafood. Michael Lofaro named “Chef of the Year” 2016 ‘Aipono Awards

RESERVATIONS: (808) 875-1234 3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 www.grandwailea.com | @grandwailea

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Dining » MAUI MIXOLOGY

FIRE & ICE Locally grown Hawaiian chili pepper spikes up these icy, spicy drinks.

FREDDIE’S CAIPIRINHA Courtesy of the Westin Maui’s Relish Oceanside Bar

HELLO KITTY Courtesy of Four Seasons Maui’s Spago

1½ oz. Captain Morgan’s Rum ½ oz. Bacardi 151 Rum 1 oz. fresh orange juice 1 oz. fruit juice such as liliko‘i or guava ¼ oz. ginger juice 1 oz. cranberry juice ½ oz. chili simple syrup Place all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and shake for 10 seconds. Pour into a coupe glass. “I created this spicy ginger-chili cocktail to accompany appetizers at an ‘Aipono Wine Dinner we recently hosted. The fresh fruit juices and hint of chili make for a refreshing change from the usual wine accompaniment. Try Hello Kitty and see if you think it should be renamed Naughty Kitty.” —Executive Chef Cameron Lewark

Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker. Muddle contents, add ice and shake for 10 seconds. Pour contents into serving glass and add lavender bitters to taste. Garnish with skewer of kiwi and pineapple. “Leblon Cachaca is so vibrant and has such a unique, grassy profile. Kiwi and pineapple work well together and bring out the fresh, green, earthy characteristics of Cachaca. I wanted to make something light, refreshing and very green tasting that would make customers come back for more.” —Freddie Sconfienza, mixologist

MANGO PALOMA Courtesy of Fairmont Kea Lani Resort’s Luana Lounge

1½ oz. Casamigos tequila or other highland tequila ¾ oz. grapefruit juice ¾ oz. mango shrub* 1 dash Angostura bitters splash of soda lime wheel

LEFT: JOHN GIORDANI; TOP: COURTESY OF WESTIN MAUI RESORT; OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF FAIRMONT KEA LANI

2 oz. Leblon Cachaca ¾ oz. St. Germaine Elderflower ½ lime cut in wedges ½ oz. simple syrup ½ kiwi 2 chunks pineapple ½–1 tsp. Adoboloco Pineapple Habanero hot sauce or to taste lavender bitters

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Measure tequila, grapefruit juice, shrub and bitters into a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously. Strain over ice into a double Old Fashioned glass rimmed with Tajin Salsa en Polvo.** Top with a splash of soda. Garnish with lime.

*Mango Shrub 1½ c. mango pulp (from 1–2 large mangos) 1½ c. white sugar ¾ c. white vinegar 2 Hawaiian chili peppers Peel, seed, and dice the mangos. Place the fruit in a medium-sized bowl and macerate with a fork or masher. Chop the chilies and add to the mangos (make sure to include the pepper seeds). Add the sugar and stir into the fruit. Refrigerate the mixture 4 hours. Remove from fridge and add the white vinegar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and allow to sit at room temperature for another 30 minutes. Strain through cheesecloth or a fine sieve to remove the pulp and seeds. **Available in supermarkets, Tajin Salsa en Polvo combines salt, chili, and lime zest for a zesty, spicy element—making this drink dangerously refreshing on a nice, hot day. “When I was kid, my family often went to flea markets. I always looked forward to getting a cup of sliced fruit seasoned with chili powder and salt. I still love the combination of savory, salty and spicy; this drink is a tribute to that tasty trifecta. “The Paloma cocktail inspired this drink. The grapefruit and mango work well together, and the shrub helps carry the flavor of the mango and chilies while adding the refreshing element of vinegar. The bitters add depth and the winter spices bring the mango flavors out even more.”—Aaron Alcala-Mosely, mixologist Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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dining guide B = Breakfast BR = Brunch  L = Lunch  D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9pm  RR = Reservation recommended $ = Average entreé under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40  $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2016

WEST SIDE ‘Āina Gourmet Market, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2800. Chef James McDonald oversees this deli’s menu, right down to the sun-ripened tomatoes and Maui onions grown Upcountry at O’o Farm. Deli. B, L. $ Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ The Banyan Tree, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Savor a top-shelf

mai tai, an appetizer of seared scallops on cauliflower purée, and braised beef short ribs with kabocha squash and ali‘i mushrooms. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$

at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$

Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808921-4600. Grilled catch of the day comes with coconut Moloka‘i purple sweet potato and ginger-spiced broccolini glazed with yuzu brown butter. Or try the New York strip steak with bleu cheese fondue and baked mashed potato. The mac-nut brittle bar is to die for. Kidfriendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$

The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. Impressive steak program featuring filet mignon, American Wagyu rib-eye, and Australian lamb chops. Modern plantation-style bar offers light fare and full island-inspired restaurant menu. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ Castaway Café, Aston Maui Kā‘anapali Villas, 45 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9091. A casual beachfront spot for local coffee and eggs Benedict with a view. At dinner, the chockablock wine cellar dresses up the simple, satisfying fare. American. B, L, D. $$ Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. This family-friendly restaurant serves up Angus beef burgers, refreshing salads and fun mixology, all with great ocean views, live entertainment and aloha. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$

Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine ‘Aipono Award

Best Mexican Restaurant 2O15 GOLD Best Mexican Restaurant 2O16 Silver

Happy Hour 3-5:3O pm daily 5O% off ENTRÉES and TACOS Fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill.com 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6000

Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. American. B, L. $

Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. American/British pub food. B, L, D $$–$$$$ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939. Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with Basque country fare. French. D. $$$$ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. L. $ Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$

Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031. Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$

Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$

Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a fifties-diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood. Steak, too! Japanese. D, N. $$$

Dollies Pub & Café, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266. Hand-pressed crusts and stoneoven pizzas highlight a menu ranging from cheese steak and meatball subs to Costa Rican salad. L, D, N. $–$$

Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Try the braised short-rib pho atop rice noodles, corn and sweet peppers in rich ginger beef broth. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Dine in casual comfort with the Tiki Restaurant’s full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$

Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i

Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Chef Tadashi Yoshino and

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lahaina fried soup his team work sushi magic. Large selection of Japanese saké. Sushi. D. $$$ Kimo’s, 845 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4811. Savor one of the island’s best mai tais on an oceanfront lānai. Opt for sweet basil fish or the 32-oz. prime rib. Save room for Hula Pie. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D. $$ Koa’s Seaside Grill, 839 Front St., Lahaina, 6677737. The folks at Gazebo run this oceanfront eatery, and serve the same famous breakfast menu from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Plus pulled-pork sandwiches, prime rib and mahimahi. American. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$

yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Sushi/ Japanese. D, N, RR. $$$ Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 6613472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed scallops. Memorable tropical drinks, and happy hour from noon to 6 p.m. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$ Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$ Lahaina Pizza Company, 730 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0700. Deep-dish pizza, hearty salads and sandwiches draw crowds to this relaxed hangout. Live music nightly. American/Italian. L, D. $$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors like sesame crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake mushroom butter soy sauce; and Korean gochujang risotto with salt and peppa’ mahi. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Shave Ice. $ See South Shore listing. Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ LuLu’s Lahaina Surf Club & Grill, 1221 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina, 661-0808. Creative dishes range from blackened ‘ahi Benedict to crispy shrimp tossed in honey-mac-nut aioli, to li hing mui barbecuedchicken flatbread. Kid-friendly. Asian-American. B, L, D, N. $$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 6679394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthMaui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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conscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more. Bakery/Café. B, L. $ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create some of Maui’s most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. See South Side listing. Myths of Maui, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6619119. Enjoy live music, Polynesian dance, and an islandinspired buffet, complete with unearthing of the kalua pig from the imu. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Kick back with a tropical cocktail and pūpū (appetizer) beside the pool; the paparazzi should be there shortly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thailemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Pailolo Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6673200. Spicy, homemade Bloody Mary will rev your engines in the morning. Excellent burgers, tacos, and appetizers, plus ice-cold beer on tap. American. B, L, D. $ Penne Pasta, 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 6616633. Dig into flavorful, affordable pasta dishes while people-watching from this cozy spot tucked down a Lahaina side street. Kid-friendly. Italian. L, D, N. $$ Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr., Kapalua, 669-9600. Try pistachio-and-wasabi-pea-crusted ‘ahi steak served with coconut forbidden rice; or tender, Asian-style braised short ribs. L, D, N. $$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with Rising Star Chef Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$

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Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

Kapalua just got delizioso!

2000 Village Rd. Kapalua TavernaMaui.com 808-667-CIAO (2426)

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH-Maui Culinary Academy. To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by: Nick’s Fishmarket The Fairmont Kea Lani 4100 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea Friday, August 26 Reception: 6pm Dinner: 6:30pm Call for reservations: 879-7224 For menu, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners $125 per person, plus tax & gratuity $25 from each dinner goes to Maui Culinary Academy.

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The theme for the evening will be:

Paul Hobbs Wines Paul Hobbs is one of California’s top winemakers—Forbes Magazine called him “the Steve Jobs of wine.” Hobbs’ credo: “Meticulous vineyard management, followed by minimally invasive winemaking techniques, allows us to produce wines . . . with finesse, complexity and authenticity.” His wines are fermented with native yeasts, aged in French oak, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series is proud to explore Paul Hobbs wines with Nick’s Fishmarket, part of the Tri-Star Restaurant Group. Under the direction of Corporate Executive Chef Geno Sarmiento, Tri-Star has won numerous awards, including Gayot Travel Guide’s “Top Ten New Restaurants in the United States,” and Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s ‘Aipono Award for Best New Restaurant for Son’z Steakhouse in the Hyatt Regency Maui. Chef Geno is known for innovative and exciting dishes that use local, farm-fresh ingredients. Tri-Star President and CEO Aaron Placourakis says, “Geno’s knowledge, experience, professionalism and zest for life are key ingredients in our restaurants’ philosophies.”

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Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Island cuisine speaks Italian! Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with a sweet zeppole, tiramisu or budino. Closed Tues– Wed. Italian. D. $$$

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Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fried rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and a great kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts. Reservations at Open Table.com. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Souffle. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venu doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with achiote-marinated ono grilled Yucatan style; fig-mole short ribs; and seafood Veracruz with shrimp, octopus, and fish simmered in tomato-Spanish-olive sauce. Mexican. L, D. $–$$

“WOW”

“...this is, by far, the best sushi I’ve ever had. So fresh and beautifully presented. Doesn’t hurt that they run their own ﬁshing boat...” – Jennifer P.

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shark Pit Food Truck, 78 Ulupono St., Lahaina, 298-7776. Kabayaki meatball sub, steak or spicy shrimp tacos with Korean aioli, USDA Prime beef burgers and fresh catch on a taro brioche bun. Food Truck. L. $ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccanspiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mi-

Kahana - West Maui (808) 669-9010

Kihei - South Maui (808) 891-MISO (6476)

Kahana Manor, 4310 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy #111

Azeka Place Mauka, 1279 South Kihei Road #108

www.MisoPhat.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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dining guide gnon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. D, N. $$$$

chicken panang curry, and many vegetarian selections. Coconut mango sticky rice pudding will plunk you into tropical heaven. Thai. L, D. $–$$

Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups like liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Additional West Maui locations: 819 Front St., Lahaina; and in the Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. Shave Ice. $

Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Beginning to end, Taverna is a dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps fans coming back for more with commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Tiki Tiki Thai, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911/ 283-5202. Filet mignon in creamy Thai chili sauce,

‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D. RR. $$$$

SOUTH SHORE Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$

Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, N. $ Café O’Lei, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368. Choose from macadamia-nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/ Italian. B, L, D. $$ Capische?, Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Fresh, handmade pastas include kabocha gnocchi; the strozzapretti carbonara comes with house-smoked bacon; and the lamb shanks are served on lemon risotto in a romantic garden setting. Any questions? Italian. D. $$$$ Chez Mēmē Bistro & Bakery, 115 Kio Loop, Kīhei, 879-5425. Mango-nectar mimosas quench the morning thirst as you dive into tender brioche French toast or a ham-and-Gruyére baguette sandwich for lunch. French/American. B, L. $ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$

SAVOR THE MEAL. DEVOUR THE VIEW. Dining worthy of the paradise that surrounds it. Located in the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea.

For reservations 808-879-2999 or visit wolfgangpuck.com

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dining guide Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smokey bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$

Five Palms, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Watch the whales cruise by and enjoy lobster-tempura sushi and baked artichokes—half-price from 3 to 6 p.m. Breakfeast is generously served until 2:30 p.m. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf-n-turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$

Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$

Eskimo Candy Seafood Market & Deli, 2665 Wai Wai Pl., Kīhei, 879-5686. Locals come for the rice bowl topped with poke mixes like shoyu, spicy wasabi and furikake. Plus fresh opah fish and chips with cabbage coleslaw. Seafood, Deli, Local. L, D. $-$$ Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$ Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for 15 hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, one with blue cheese and apples. American. L, D. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$

Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8751234. Carpaccio of Japanese hamachi with celeryginger shaved ice, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, crispy mahimahi on forbidden rice . . . love from first bite to last. Pacific Rim. D. $$$$

Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Local Boys Shave Ice, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779. How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with Plantation Era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Shave Ice. $ Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Try a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemonfeta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$

Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Seasonal dishes change weekly—for example, lobster bathed in vanillacream reduction, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy feta, and nuggets of foie gras malasadas. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$

Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kalua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomi lomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$

Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230. Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$

Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig

LOCAL FLAVORS EXPRESSED THROUGH CULINARY INNOVATION Sharing food with the people you love is a big part of traditional Hawaiian culture, and our fresh restaurant Ka’ana Kitchen serves up some of Maui’s best dishes family style. So grab your favorite humans, and share farm-to-table cuisine expertly prepared to stimulate your sense of adventure. CALL US at +1 808 243 4750 to book your reservation.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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dining guide into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$ The Market, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 8792433. Homemade breads and pastas, chia- seed waffles, salads to go, charcuterie and sandwiches like the Haole Hoagie: pepper-crusted turkey on sourdough with red-dragon cheese and cumin aioli. The full barista service features coffee drinks sweetened with fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, and the cheese is made on Maui. Deli. L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Maui Thai Bistro, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8745605. Memorable kaffir-scented tom yum fried rice and green-mango salad with crispy fried fish filets and house curries. Thai food cooked by a Thai chef. Beer and wine bar. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476. Sushi served on-site, to go or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masa-

haru Morimoto combines signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions and locally sourced ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Oceanside Restaurant, 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 868-3481. Imagine the freshest fish landing in the kitchen within minutes of the boat’s docking at the harbor. Plus organic produce, burgers and pasta. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$

Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, D. $-$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8948880. See West Side listing. Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing. Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ South Shore Tiki Lounge, Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444. Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads, and several vegetarian items round out this hip bar’s menu. American. L, D, N. $

Pā‘ia Fish Market South Side, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888. The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. See North Shore listing.

Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Chef Cameron Lewark’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$

Pizza Madness,1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches with chips and a pickle, some of the best pizza this side of the Pacific, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza L, D. $–$$

Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six different ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow

a restaurant created by a man who loves to eat Serving Hawai‘i Since 1976

Best Award of Excellence Wine Spectator

Best Breakfast in Hawai‘i Zagat Survey

Restaurant of Distinction Honolulu Magazine Hale ‘Aina Award

Best Restaurant Honolulu Advertiser I‘lima Award

Best Italian Restaurant The Maui News “Best of Maui” Award

Best Mediterranean BEST Guidebook

‘Aipono Icon Award, Bob Longhi Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine

L A H A I N A / 8 8 8 F r o n t S t r e e t / 8 0 8 . 6 6 7. 2 2 8 8 WA I L E A / T h e S h o p s a t Wa i l e a / 8 0 8 . 8 9 1. 8 8 8 3 HONOLULU / Ala Moana Center / 808.944.3733

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“Treat your friends like family & your family like friends” —Big Manoli

their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983. Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbeaninspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$ Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose a rosemarygarlic-crusted steak on roasted garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, Maui Brewery and wine selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing. Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads, and entrèes like braised chocolate chipotle lamb shank with maizena. American/Pacific Rim. B (Sat–Sun only), L, D (Mon–Sat). $–$$

Great pizza made with whole wheat or gluten-free crusts. Wide variety of appetizers, pastas, salads as well as daily Chef’s specials. Awesome burgers and sandwiches at lunchtime as well as homemade fries. We are passionate about using fresh, local, organic and sustainable products when available.

Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650. This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly describes this organic eatery’s pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. The taro veggie burgers and the poi açai bowl with fresh fruit are a delicious spin on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Maui-style, Takeout Only. B, L. $

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop

TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: 808.874.7499

Fatt Chicks Burgers, Brews & Grill, 200 Halewaiu Rd., Waiehu, 242-6666. The 19th hole never tasted so good! Kim chee loco moco, bountiful salads and ‘ono burgers. Nuff said! Go eat! Pacific Regional. B, L. $ Geste Shrimp Truck, Kahului Beach Rd., Kahului, 298-7109. Choices include Hawaiian scampi, hot and spicy, lemon pepper, and spicy pineapple shrimp, plus crab salad and rice. Food Truck. L, D. $ Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing. Marco’s Grill & Deli, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4446. Head to Marco’s for a good Reuben, meatball parmigiano, or tiramisu. Italian. B, L, D. $$

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Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are special price. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

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dining guide Maui Fresh Streatery, 137 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului (at Ilima Shell), 344-7929. Chef Kyle rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for other locations. Food Truck. L. $ The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333.Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Chef Jeff Scheer’s harmony of flavors will woo you back for more. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$ Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707. Home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito, plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ Poi by the Pound, 385 Ho‘ohana St., Kahului, 2839381. Eat like a local. Hawaiian. L, D. $ A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot or Buddha rolls and lemongrass curry. The comedic servers don’t miss a beat. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 8930026. See West Side listing. Tin Roof, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753. Sheldon Simeon of Bravo TV’s Top Chef fame lets you build your own kau kau bowl with his savory offerings: sweet Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and kochujang sauce; seared furikaki-crusted fish with wasabi mayo and soy, and more. Pacific Rim. L. $–$$

Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $$-$$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ La Isla Mexican Tamales, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 572-8258. Tamale lovers and local plate-lunch eaters unite! Great food, reasonable prices. Local/Mexican. L, D. $ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning. Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Market Fresh Bistro, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-4877. Chef Justin Pardo brings a passion for sustainable food to this courtyard gem. Try a breakfast frittata or pan-roasted crab cakes with corn succotash. Dinner Thursday through Saturday. Call for dates on special farm dinners. American. B, L, D. $–$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this

bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. Mexican. L, D. $$ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across from Maui Winery, find great deli fare, and hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kalua pork plate lunch. American. B, L, D. $

NORTH SHORE Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Dine indoor Kidfriendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly. American/Pizza. B, L, D. $-$$. Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$

TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311. Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves up plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, such as potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku. Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $ Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Salads, soup and sandwiches with fresh local ingredients. American. B, L, $

UPCOUNTRY Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$ Farmacy Health Bar, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 868-0443. See Central listing.

Aloha Aina

8 1 0 H A I KU R D • W W W. PA N G E A M AU I .CO M • 8 0 8 5 75 50 55 Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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dining guide Hāna Ranch Provisions, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 868-3688. The name says it all: the freshest produce, fish, and Hāna-raised beef. Well, almost all: add the name of premier chef Gary Johnson. Asian Fusion. B, L, D. $–$$$ Maka by Mana, 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5799125. Coconut-cream stacker with balsamic reduction, vegan burgers, tempeh Reuben . . . this is vegan and vegetarian fare so delicious, it could make a meat lover cross over. Vegetarian. L, D, RR. $ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$$$ Milagro’s, 3 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8755. The corner of Baldwin and Hāna Highway can’t be beat for people-watching. Sample fine tequilas and dig into ‘ahi tacos with sweet-spicy salsa. Mexican. L, D. $$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for blacksesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$-$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030. The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the long line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Pangea, 810 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-5055. Earthto-table cuisine. Paniolo (cowboy) whiskey sliders,

sublime coconut clam chowder, and daily seasonal specials, plus farm-fresh fruit cocktails, and half-off prices at happy hour. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$$

HĀNA

Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732. Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hāna-sourced produce and fish are the basis for an original menu by Chef Jay Johnson. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I

Lāna‘i City Grille, Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-7211. Asian-influenced cuisine is served in cozy comfort in a historic inn. Try the crab cake appetizers with spicy aioli, and fresh fish over rice pilaf. Asian/American. D, RR. $–$$$ Lāna‘i ‘Ohana Poke Market, 834A Gay St., Lāna‘i City, 808-559-6265. Tucked down a side street off Dole Park, this no-frills venue serves great local grinds like spicy poke bowls with furikake, and teri beef combo plate lunches. Hawaiian. L. $ Malibu Farm, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Organic, farm-to-table fare and a sweeping ocean view. Start with quinoa oatmeal with coconut milk. For lunch, try the Caesar BLT salad or a burrata fruit salad with arugula, mango, papaya and candied mac nuts. American. B, L, $$–$$$.

Nobu Lāna‘i, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2832. Celeb chef Matsuhisa-san has handed the knife and hashi (chopsticks) to Chef Marlowe Lawenko at this beautiful open-air restaurant. Prepare to be amazed. Japanese. D, RR. $$–$$$$ One Forty, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Begin your day with creamy baked oatmeal with fresh fruits, muffins and croissants; or grilled ‘ahi with chipotle-hollandaise eggs Benedict. For dinner, try Chef Kemar Durfield’s beef filet with lobster-mashed potatoes; or moi, the fish of Hawaiian royalty, with taro gnocchi, papaya and pohole salad. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Pele’s Other Garden, 811 Houston St., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-9628. Big deli sandwiches, calzones, pizza, pasta, beer and wine. Deli/Italian. L, D. $–$$ Views at Mānele Golf, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Challenge Dr., 808-565-2000. Lunch goes light and bright with fresh ‘ahi atop arugula, frisée and fiddlehead fern shoots. For heartier appetites, there’s Wagyu skirt steak with charred corn, Mexican cotija cheese and creamy avocado dressing. At lunch or pau hana, sip a cacao mojito or a guava mint lemonade. Hawai‘i Regional. L, $$–$$$ The Sports Bar, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2499. Platters overflowing with baba ganoush, hummus, tabouleh and feta; and not-to-bemissed Jidori chicken wings with creamy blue cheese dip. Long-simmered Lāna‘i venison ragout over pappardelle will prepare you for your day on the greens. Mediterranean. L, D. $$–$$$ More lisitings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

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July From left: Makawao Rodeo, July 1–3 | Featured artists, Lahaina Arts Society, July 5–31 |Sugar Beach cleanup, July 16

DAILY

Native Plant Guided Tour Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Brochures for self-guided walking tours included with admission price; audio tour wands available to rent; docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment). All tours cover the natural history, conservation and ancient uses of native Hawaiian and Polynesian-introduced plants. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

THROUGH JULY 28

Voyaging: A Themed Exhibition Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Let your imagination set sail during this juried exhibition that highlights the spirit of exploration. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

THROUGH AUGUST 4

Ka‘ana Kupboard Cooking Class Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui Learn a series of preparations for shellfish, plus tips and tricks for purchasing locally. 12:30 p.m. Register at 243-4703 or AndazMauiConcierge@Andaz.com. 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea

Lāna‘i Pineapple Festival Dole Park, Lāna‘i Lāna‘i celebrates its plantation heritage with pineapple dishes, exhibits and local performers, and concludes with a fireworks show. 3-9 p.m. Friday-Saturday. LanaiPineappleFestival.com

Model Planes Maui RC Modelers demonstrates radio-controlled flight for the public from 8 a.m. to noon most Saturdays, behind the drag strip at Maui Raceway Park in Kīhei. For details, contact Steve Groff at 357-0251 or StephenGroff@Hawaii.rr.com.

The Rat & the Octopus Schaefer International Gallery, Maui Arts & Cultural Center Big Island-based art collective AGGROculture explores this Polynesian myth through sculpture, painting, video, storytelling, costume, and viewer participation. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

23, 1617

13

531

Makawao Rodeo Saddle up for this Fourth of July tradition. Parade rolls through Makawao Town July 2. Oskie Rice Arena, 80 Ohaoha Place, and Makawao Town

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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AUGUST 67

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Sponsored by Lahaina Arts Society. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

Featured Artists Lahaina Arts Society Anna Keay displays her oil paintings of tropical flowers and bridal bouquets in the Old Jail Gallery,

July 1, Aug 5 July 8, Aug 12 July 15, Aug 19 July 22, Aug 26 July 29

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei Fifth Friday Lāna‘i

while plein-air enthusiast Joseph Demaree shares his nature-inspired paintings at the Banyan Tree Gallery— both located in the Old Lahaina Courthouse, 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com.

831

Monty Python’s Spamalot Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this Tony-Award winning musical inspired by the classic film comedy Monty Python and the Holy Grail. 7:30 p.m. Fridays & Saturdays; 3 p.m. Sundays. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 2426969; MauiOnStage.com

AUGUST 17

Summer Show Viewpoints Gallery Oil and acrylic paintings by various artists. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; viewpoints gallerymaui.com

1524

Disney’s The Little Mermaid ‘A‘ali‘ikūhonua Creative Arts Center, Seabury Hall Maui Academy of Performing Arts’ Summer Musical Theatre Camp presents this musical based on the beloved Hans Christian Andersen story that inspired the animated film. Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays; time TBA; 480 Olina Road, Makawao; MauiAcademy.org

1517

Art with Aloha Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center On Friday, talk story with Umi Kai of Kai Kompany and Leina‘ala Kai of Ulupono Designs as they create Hawaiian weapons and weavings, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Friday’s event is free and open to the public. On Saturday, 9 a.m.–1 p.m., Leina‘ala teaches how to weave a lauhala fan. $32 fee includes materials. On Sunday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m., Umi teaches how to craft a fishhook from bone. $45 fee includes materials. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

Maui Beach Cleanup Sugar Beach, Kīhei If litter bugs you, join Malama Maui Nui and Surfrider

JOSE MORALES; COURTESY OF LAHAINA ARTS SOCIETY; JOHN GIORDANI

JULY

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Presented by:

#MIMCF2016 Join us for Maui County’s largest products show at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Kahului

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2016

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2016

Special Shoppers Preview

The Big Festival Day!

1:30PM - 6PM

An exclusive event for early shoppers Get a one-day head start on your shopping! • Opening ceremonies (5 pm), light refreshments • Free Festival tote for event attendees • Cost: $35 per person. Tickets available at the MACC box office. •

Buyers Preview

Free entry for qualiﬁed wholesale/retail buyers

8AM - 4:30PM

Showcasing a wide variety of made in Maui County products including food, produce, arts, crafts, gifts, apparel, jewelry, and collectibles. • Vendor product demonstrations • Fashion show featuring vendors’ products • Food Court with a dozen of Maui's food trucks • First 2,000 attendees receive a free Festival tote • Prize drawings throughout the day • Cost: $5 (at the gate), children 12 & under free. •

For more information, visit our website: www.MadeInMauiCountyFestival.com

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AUGUST HIGHLIGHTS HILT. Explore ‘Ulupalakua Ranch’s historically rich property in the Kahikinui district. 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Reservations required. 244-5263; hilt.org

August 28

Joan Osborne Castle Theater, MACC Known for hits including (What if God Was) One of Us and What Becomes of the Brokenhearted, this seventime Grammy nominee will share sounds from her newest album, Love and Hate. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

29-30

Joan Osborne, July 28

Maui for this seaside cleanup. 9 a.m.-noon. Lunch and supplies provided. Maui.Surfrider.org.

Run ‘Īao This 10K run leads into scenic ‘Īao Valley State Park, beginning and ending in Wailuku. 7:30 a.m. Wailuku Municipal Parking Lot off Vineyard St., Wailuku; register at MauiRunning.com

Cordage Workshop Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Explore native plant fibers and learn to create your own Hawaiian cordage. 9 a.m.-3 p.m. $25 MNBG members, $50 nonmembers. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

Talk Story on the Land Pu‘uhōkūkano in ‘Auwahi Join Hawaiian Islands Land Trust on this informative hike led by Scott Fisher, director of conservation for

The MayJah RayJah Events Lawn, MACC Island and reggae music festival featuring Matisyahu, J Boog, Iration, and other local favorites. 5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Molokai2Oahu Paddleboard World Championships Kaluako‘i Beach, Moloka‘i Paddlers from around the world test their endurance and skill in this thirty-two-mile race across the Ka‘iwi Channel. Race starts at 6:45 a.m. Molokai2Oahu.com

Ke Alahele Education Fund Dinner & Auction The Fairmont Kea Lani Maui Economic Development Board’s fundraiser supports programs in science, technology, engineering and math for students throughout Maui County. Reception and silent auction 4:30 p.m. Dinner and live auction 6 p.m. 4100 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; 875-2300; medb.org

AUGUST

-SEPTEMBER 5

Lahaina Poster Contest Lahaina Arts Society’s Banyan Tree Gallery Artists compete to have their work chosen for the official Lahaina poster. Juried entries will be displayed, and winners announced at the August 5 reception, 6 p.m. Sponsored by LahainaTown Action Committee and Lahaina Arts Society. Old Lahaina Courthouse, 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

‘Aipono Wine Dinner Nick’s Fishmarket Forbes Magazine calls Paul Hobbs “the Steve Jobs of wine.” Explore the creations of this top California winemaker with Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, and savor a paired menu by Geno Sarmiento, corporate executive chef of Nick’s and the Tri-Star Restaurant Group. $125 per person; a portion of sales benefits Maui Culinary Academy. Reception 6 p.m., dinner 6:30 p.m. 4100 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea. Reservations: 879-7224

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Kōkō Pū‘alu: Gourd Carrying-Net Workshop Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Learn the traditional method of tying a gourd for carrying. 9 a.m.-4 p.m. $100 MNBG members, $125 nonmembers. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 2492798; mnbg.org

Huliau Food & Film Festival Sugar Beach Events Wine, dine, and view student-produced films at this fundraiser for the nonprofit Maui Huliau Foundation, which empowers local youth through video while teaching about the environment. Plus live music and silent auction. Ages 21 and older. $95. 85 N. Kīhei Road, Kīhei; 757-2100; MauiHuliauFoundation.org

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LEFT: COURTESY OF THE MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Jekyll & Hyde the Musical Castle Theater, MACC MAPA LIVE presents a musical adaptation of Robert Louis Stevenson’s exploration into man’s struggle between good and evil. 7:30 p.m Fridays & Saturdays; 3 p.m. Sundays. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2448760; MauiAcademy.org

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Thompson Square Castle Theater, MACC This husband-and-wife country music group has earned scores of accolades including Vocal Duo of the Year at the ACM and CMA awards, and continue to climb the charts with hits including Are You Gonna Kiss Me or Not and If I Didn’t Have You. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

24-30 From left: Thompson Square, August 21 | Hawai‘i National Parks 2016 Centennial Juried Exhibition, August 28–October 20 LEFT: COURTESY OF THE MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; JAY ROBINSON

Family Day at the Hui Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center The Hui’s annual Youth Art Exhibition kicks off with a scavenger hunt, glassblowing demonstrations, bake sale, hands-on artist workshops, face painting and more. Free and open to the public. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

TriLanai City Run Dole Park, Lāna‘i City Step up to the starting line for this 5K, 10K, or halfmarathon race that begins and ends at Dole Park. TriLanai.com

Ka‘ana Kupboard Cooking Class Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui Master the technique of sous vide with procedures you can use in your own kitchen. 12:30 p.m. Register at 243-4703 or AndazMauiConcierge@Andaz. com. 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea

Maui Calls A&B Amphitheater, MACC The MACC’s signature fundraiser features live entertainment, plus gourmet treats prepared by local chefs and paired with premium wines. Bid on hundreds of items, from art and jewelry to golf and travel packages, during live and silent auctions. 6 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Hāna Cultural Center Ho‘olaule‘a This free event features food booths, live music, farmers’ market and more. 4974 Uakea Road, Hāna; HanaCulturalCenter.org

-SEPTEMBER 30

Reaching Out—Collaborations Viewpoints Gallery Select artists explore the possibilities that arise from a collaboration with people from the community. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; Viewpoints GalleryMaui.com

Indigenous Crop Biodiversity Festival This sister event to the IUCN World Conservation Congress held on O‘ahu features Maui-based workshops, lectures, music, films, and more. See story on page 26.

-OCTOBER 20

Hawai‘i National Parks 2016 Centennial Juried Exhibition Schaefer International Gallery, MACC This juried exhibition celebrates the 100-year anniversary of the National Parks of Hawai‘i with an opening reception at 5 p.m. Aug. 28, and a family play day from 10 a.m. to noon Oct. 1. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s Sept–Oct print edition must be received by July 15. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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who’s who

The 2016 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards Some 475 guests gathered for an evening of fine dining and celebration at the largest-ever ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards Gala. Held on April 10, the event transformed the Grand Wailea into a Venetian carnival, with costumes, face painting, live opera and chamber music, and more. The annual banquet honors the island’s top restaurants and culinary professionals, as voted by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. ‘Aipono raises funds for Maui Culinary Academy at UH–Maui College, and provides an invaluable real-world mentoring opportunity for our future chefs. A special mahalo to this year’s sponsors, who helped make the event a success: Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, Grand Wailea, Mama’s Fish House, Maui County Farm Bureau, Maui Hotel & Lodging Association, Pacific Biodiesel/Maui EKO Systems, Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center and Tri-Star Restaurant Group.

Costume contest winner Amanda Furgiuele | “Statue” Jessica Eve’s occasional, barely discernible moves took observant attendees by surprise. | Maui Academy of Performing Arts students raised $3,000 for the culinary cause, selling Venetian masks. | Magician Brenton Keith worked his sleight of hand during the reception.

Harpist Kristine Snyder| Shannon Wianecki | Katherine Haynes & Hermine Harmon | Adelle Lennox | Senior editor Rita Goldman gets a Venetian-style makeover.

The reception featured appetizers prepared by Maui Culinary Academy students. | MCA Chef Jake Belmonte’s spring vegetables with cauliflower & farro | Chef Teresa Shurilla & Juli Umetsu| Chef Craig Omori’s mushroom & squash terrine with tomato relish

Chef Jake Belmonte (center) with MCA students |Chef Tom Lelli’s grilled octopus with lemon agrodolce & gigante beans |Chef Lelli and students preparing appetizers al fesco | raw tuna & avocado à la Venice | another Venetian treat: salt cod spread

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Photography by Jose Morales & Zane Mathias MauiMagazine.net

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Kimokeo Kapahulehua offers a blessing. | MNKO publisher Diane Woodburn with Mayor Alan Arakawa & wife Ann | Grand Wailea General Manager Tom Donovan | Aria’s chef/owner Majic Carson (right), daughters Ella & Kaye, & nephew Shaun with Silver ‘Aipono for Best Business Lunch; MCA students Jimmsie Stisher & Bernadette Bautista win scholarships courtesy of Haynes Publishing Group

Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants’ Charles Fredy & James Maher | Taverna’s Debby & Chris Kaiwi | Montage Kapalua Bay’s Catherine Huchison, David Viviano, Nathan Hood, Davis Hood, Venus Yi | Ka‘ana Kitchen’s Dirk McVey, Ben Marquez, Daya Chandolia & Dennis Blair with their Silver ‘Aipono for Most Innovative Menu.

Mary Jo & Kō Executive Chef Tylun Pang | Pacific Biodiesel’s Kelly & Bob King | David Sellers, Shelley Leemor Sellers, Joy Galatro, Jan Alejandro | Michael Wilson & Eldin Djurkovic claim Duo’s Silver ‘Aipono for Best Steak | Maui Hotel & Lodging Association’s Lisa Paulson awarded scholarships to six hospitality students . . . and performed a killer operatic aria at the banquet’s opening.

Gerry Ellman, Greg Walthouse & Ana Navarro of Frida’s | Qiana & Michele Di Bari, whose Sale Pepe tied for Gold for Best Italian | Marco & Raphaella Zanolari | Matt Reynolds, Matt Anderson, and Executive Chef Francois Milliet accepted Pailolo Bar & Grill’s Silver for Best Burger. | Toni Rojas presented a scholarship to Maui Food Innovation Center’s Dawn Anderson for entreprenurial excellence.

Maui County Farm Bureau’s Warren Watanabe gave Chef Perry Bateman the Friend of Agriculture Award | Karen Christenson & Noele McClure of Mama’s Fish House with the Gold for Most “Maui-est” | Danielle Delaunay, Amy Albert, Joti Mangat, Brad Albert | Japengo’s Chef Gevin Utrillo, Jin Hosono & Cory Bartol with the Gold for Best Asian | Sumithra Balraj & Sulinn Aipa from Westin Maui Resort

Grand Wailea’s Shane Komine, Chef Mike Lofaro, Anthony Torres & Ryan Urig accept the Gold for Most Innovative Menu for Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a | Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas’ Corrine & Ryan Nobriga, Fernando & Angela Nolan | Lifetime Achievement Award winner Aaron Placourakis with wife Rhonda and son Manoli | Monkeypod Kitchen won the coveted Restaurant of the Year.

Photography by Jose Morales Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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who’s who

MIEKO HORIKOSHI PHOTOGRAPHY

TASTE OF SCHOOL GARDENS| Hotel Wailea | March 12, 2016 | Benefit for Maui’s school garden programs

L to R: Linda Philpin & Mariko Foley | Kim Mosley, Nadine Rasmussen, Jen Chalupsky | Dorothy McCoy & Lynn Stettler | Dawn Williams-Brandt & Rick Brandt | Patricia O’Neil & Maury King

JEANE MCMAHON/DARIUS TAJ

FANTASIA BALL | Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa | March 26, 2016 | Benefit for Imua Family Services

L to R: Donna, Paris & Layla Nabavi | Tess & Dr. Ben DeLisa | Daniel Chun, Lisa Paulson, Vania Jerome, Shaunta Hyde | John Browning, Dean Wong, Tammy Browning

JOSE MORALES

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER | Spago, Four Seasons Resort Maui | April 22, 2016 | Benefit for UH–Maui Culinary Academy

L to R: Navneet & Kristen Ayer | Tom & Bonnie Strand | Lisa & Shawn Koser | Brenda & Rich Scholl | Derrin Abac, Dan Schulte, James Maher, Charles Fredy

JOSE MORALES

AN EVENING IN THE GARDENS | Maui Nui Botanical Gardens | April 23, 2016 | Benefit for Maui Nui Botanical Gardens

L to R: George Allan, Brad Fitkin, Janet Allan | Renee & Elliot Leiter, Dorothy Pyle | Cheryl Tipton, Dick Cameron, Kathy Baldwin, Fatima Cameron | Colly & Diane Norman

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

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October 14-30, 2016 • www.HFWF.me

THE BEST TIME TO VISIT MAUI. (Well, besides anytime.)

The center of the culinary world will be in the middle of the Pacific. The 6th Annual Hawai i Food & Wine Festival is coming to Maui, featuring over 100 chefs, top-tier winemakers, mixologists and brewmasters. Our three-day culinary adventure in Ka- anapali includes indulgent golf and dining activities. Oct. 15

Roy’s 19th Annual Golf Classic at Ka- anapali Golf Course Mixology Seminar at Westin Ka- anapali Ocean Resort Villas

Oct. 16

Hawaiian Airlines Presents Soaring Palates at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa

Oct. 22

Waikoloa, Hawai i Island

Oct. 14

Oct. 26-30

Ka- anapali: A Chefs’ Paradise at Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa

Honolulu & Ko Olina, O ahu

Tickets on Sale Now! – www.HFWF.me

MAHALO TO OUR SPONSORS

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LOOKING BACK

Hot Buttons “Whiskey is for drinking, and water is for fighting over.” Mark Twain may or may not have been the author of that quote, but there’s no disputing its relevance to the story it appeared in, in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s Spring 2004 issue. Michael Stein’s “Water, Water . . . Where?” was our first exploration into Hawai‘i’s struggle over water rights— the stream diversions that began in the 1800s to irrigate Hawai‘i’s sugar plantations. Such diversion put in jeopardy a wide constituency of water users, from taro farmers to indigenous fish species. The controversy was unresolved when Paul Wood returned to the subject in his July/August 2008 story “Nā Wai ‘Eha,” the collective name for the four streams that pour from West Maui’s mountain into the Central Valley; it remains so today, even as the state’s last sugar plantation readies to harvest its final crop. Over the past two decades, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi has reported on an array of island issues, from the struggle for Hawaiian self-determination (“Paths toward Hawaiian Sovereignty,” Spring 2000), to vacation rentals (“Short-term Aloha,” Jan/Feb 2008), to the risk of sonar to humpback whales (“Song Vs. Sonar,” Summer 2000). Sometimes we’ve seen progress. “Saving Honolua” (Sept/Oct 2007) went from a story headline to reality when the bay became a marine sanctuary. “The Future of Kalo” (Sept/Oct 2007) reported on the University of Hawai‘i’s plans to genetically modify this staple food plant, considered the older brother of the Hawaiian people—research the university later agreed to stop. And many volunteer hours have gone into reclaiming Kaho‘olawe from its history as the overgrazed “target island” since our first visit in “Island in Waiting” (Winter 1996/1997). Other times we’re reminded that, the more things change, the more they stay the same. Recent discord over planned construction of a thirty-meter telescope atop Mauna Kea, on Hawai‘i Island, echoes our story about the Advanced Electro-Optical System telescope at the summit of Haleakalā. Tom Stevens’s article, “What’s Wrong with This Picture?” appeared in our Spring 1998 issue—MNKO’s second year. “Seeds of Controversy” examined genetically modified organisms back in Fall 2005; we were still talking about GMOs in Mar/Apr 2015 (“Rooting for the Wrong Side?”) when Mauians voted for a moratorium on such crops, a moratorium whose legal status is still pending. Regardless of outcome, our goal for every Island Issues story has stayed constant these past twenty years: to thoughtfully explore the topics that matter to the people and environment of Maui County, and hold to our commitment to impartiality in print, even when we hold strong opinions of our own. « ISLAND ISSUES »

the

ROOTING FOR WRONG SIDE?

Supporters say biotechnology creates jobs and fights world hunger. Detractors say it threatens the health of humans and the planet. Can both be right? STORY BY

ILLUSTRATIONS BY

Last November, by the slender margin of 1,077 votes, Maui County residents passed a moratorium on genetically modified crops. The bill was historic for two reasons: it was the first citizens’ initiative ever to make it onto the Maui County ballot. And it spurred the most expensive campaign in state history. Global biotech companies spent nearly $8 million fighting this measure, outspending local activists by more than eightyseven to one. Still, the moratorium passed. The debate leading up to voting day was contentious, riddled with misinformation on both sides. In its wake, many islanders wonder where the truth lies and where we go from here. The new law is currently tied up in litigation. If it survives, it will require anyone seeking to grow genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in Maui County to first pay for an environmental and public health impact study. Conducted by an independent party, this study will investigate whether pollen drift from GMO fields contaminates neighboring plants; how pesticides used on GMOs affect the soil, air, groundwater, and marine resources; and whether any connection

Shannon Wianecki Matt Foster

www.mauimagazine.net

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

From top: Exploring Hawaiian sovereignty in “The Akaka Bill,” Jul/Aug 2009; endangered seals in “Watching out for Makana,” Summer 2004; protecting the past in “Ancient Fishponds, Modern Battles,” Fall 2001; turtle tumors in “A Growing Concern,” Mar/Apr 2007; lay nets in “Tangled Net,” Nov/ Dec. 2006; GMO crops in “Rooting for the Wrong Side?” Mar/Apr 2015. Find them on MauiMagazine.net

MauiMagazine.net

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Whalers Village 808-661-6806

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The Shops at Wailea 808-874-4900

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MAUI Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 808.874.5800 OAHU The Kahala Hotel & Resort 路 Halekulani HAWAII Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel