Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine Nov-Dec 2016 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

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20 Reasons Locals Love Maui (#16: Humpback Whales)

100 Years of Majesty Haleakalā National Park

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features 28 » island business

KITCHEN STARTUP Maui’s new food innovation center offers entrepreneurs recipes for success. By Shannon Wianecki

32 » adventure

ALL IN THE FAMILY This ancient Hawaiian practice gives new meaning to the phrase “All things are relative.” By Kazz Regelman

44 » maui style

SHAKA LIST 2016 Twenty reasons we love Maui ~ By Shannon Wianecki

54 » great finds

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE Check our list for something great for everyone on yours. Compiled by Conn Brattain

62 » at home

MALIKO RETREAT This short-term rental is long on history. By Jill Engledow

about our cover

Maui photographer Karim Iliya travels the world in search of the perfect picture.We’d say he nailed it with his shot of a migrating humpback whale. Silverswords like the one below spend most of their lives looking like a spiky silver ball; the last thing they do in life is send up a stalk of tiny sunflower-like blooms. They exist nowhere on Earth except in the moonscape of Haleakalā, which in 2016 celebrates 100 years as a national park. We celebrate with two stories, on pages 22 and 44.

JOHN GIORDANI

HIKING HĀLAWA This remote Moloka‘i valley is home to hardy Hawaiians, lizard deities, and fish that climb waterfalls. By Shannon Wianecki

40 » hawaiian soul

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16 » contributors It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

18 » publisher’s note By Diane Haynes Woodburn

20 » talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Rita Goldman, Peter von Buol, & Shannon Wianecki

108 » calendar of events What’s happening where, when, and with whom

113 » who’s who Seen making the scene on Maui

114 » looking back WHAT’S IN A NAME? In this, the last issue of our twentieth anniversary, we uncover the history behind Maui nō ka ‘oi—Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.”

 DINING  Chef Paris Nabavi makes his rice pudding with rosewater, saffron, slivered almonds and cinnamon. Want more? See story on page 90. Photo by Rodrigo Moraes

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available in November)

GET COOKING: Chef Eric Morrissette shares more holiday recipes. Find them at MauiMagazine.net/beef-tenderloin and MauiMagazine.net/cranberry-cake. TIME TRAVEL: This issue we feature a home built in the 1920s. See what it looked like a century earlier at MauiMagazine.net/maliko-retreat. THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for the latest on what’s happening around Maui County. MauiMagazine.net/maui-events AND THE WINNER IS... Lilia Ong, of Kīhei, who entered our “Beat the Heat” Vacation Getaway contest and won two nights’ luxury accommodations at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, dinner at Frida’s Mexican Beach House (winner of the 2016 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant), a ride on Atlantis Submarine, and a $250 gift certificate to Maui Divers Jewelry. LIKE WINNING? Vote for your favorite Maui restaurants with the ‘Aipono Awards ballot in this issue (or online at MauiMagazine.net/VoteAipono), and be entered in a drawing for certificates to ‘Aipono Award-winning restaurants. GET SOCIAL

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78 » dining feature HOILIDAY TEST KITCHEN Rock star/restaurateur Mick Fleetwood lets us play in his kitchen. We’re sharing the recipes. By Becky Speere

90 » dining highlights HOLIDAY IN HAWAI‘I Friends fill the melting pot with their holiday food traditions. By Becky Speere

96 » dining guide A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island YULE ‘ULU Ross Steidel of Perfect Pour Maui created two versions of ‘ulu nog: one with eggs and cream, one vegan. Find both at MauiMagazine.net/breadfruit-nog.

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is indeed the best.” We hope you think so, too.

What’s your most memorable holiday tradition? New Year’s fireworks is my favorite tradition because people of all ages are excited by explosions and the bright, pretty colors.—Shelby Lynch My favorite holiday tradition is watching movies together— Miracle on 34th Street, It’s a Wonderful Life, and White Christmas are my favorites— all reminders of how precious family is.—Adelle Lennox

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEBSITE MANAGER

Adelle Lennox

ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch

The tradition of the Christmas tree is most memorable—from spruce selection, lighting, decorating, tree-topping, all the way to the skirting and placing of the nativity. I would turn off all the lights in the room and lie down on the floor with my head under the lit branches. The smell of pine will always melt my heart.—John Giordani

EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Gail Ainsworth, Jill Engledow, Kazz Regelman, Peter von Buol, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

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Lehia Apana, Bob Bangerter, Bryan Berkowitz, Conn Brattain, R.J. Bridges, Cesere Brothers, Rob Decamp, Barbara Geary, John Giordani, Nina Kuna, Jason Moore, Rodrigo Moraes, Mike Neal, James Petruzzi, On Christmas Eve, my mother Thomas Sewell, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, would bring us to downtown Shannon Wianecki In Brazil, celebrating Chicago to see the department Christmas for two days with stores’ animated holiday CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Matt Foster windows. Marshall Field’s was CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION my favorite. While the story Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. changed every year, each panel had a cameo by Field’s ADVERTISING SALES 808-242-8331 signature character, Uncle DIRECTOR OF SALES Laura Lewark Mistletoe, Santa’s elf-sized, winged assistant.—Peter von ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Barbara Geary Buol (Peter is pictured at left with story subject Alvin “Rex” BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Michael Haynes Ornellas. See page 20.) Pumpkin pie for my birthday. I would always celebrate my birthday on Thanksgiving with my family and I always wanted my mom’s delicious pumpkin pie. Yum!—Ryan Siphers

my huge family and eating my grandma’s famous bacalhau (codfish) dish. —Rodrigo Moraes

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E-MAIL ADDRESS Info@MauiMagazine.net On the night of Oomisoka (New Year’s Eve), listening to MOVING? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing the tolling of the joya-noGroup, P.O. Box 3942, Lacey, WA 98509-3942. Please kane (New Year’s Eve Bell) note: If the post office alerts us that your magazine and cleansing the soul. is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation, unless we receive a corrected address within —Mieko Horikoshi

Nothing beats homemade ginger white-chocolate brownies fresh from the oven, while we watch a funny holiday movie together, snuggled up with our kids. —Kazz Regelman Our favorite holiday tradition is to catch the first sunrise of the year from the top of Haleakalā. It’s like seeing the birth of a new year!—Mike Haynes

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Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, Eating & Drinking, & The Shops at Wailea magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print)| ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2016 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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publisher’s note Christmas in the Melting Pot Throughout 2016, our twentieth anniversary, we’ve been dusting off stories from our archives and sharing them with you. This column first ran in October 2009. I’ve updated it a bit, inspired by the tenor of our political times to take a second look at what makes a community or a country worth celebrating. Have a taste.

Marble in private sculpture garden

BRUCE TURNBULL Godfather of Maui Sculptors One of a kind one at a time

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Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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NINA KUNA

RHAPSODY IN BLUE

I wake to an olfactory reveille—pungent, spicy and sweet—and follow my nose to the kitchen, where my husband is shaking mustard seed into his bubbling cauldron. “Mmmm,” I hint, leaning in for a better look. In the pot, exotic spices collide with bright orange mango, yellow ginger, raisins, brown sugar, onions and (oooeee!) vinegar—a kaleidoscope of fragrance and color. My husband makes the best mango chutney in Maui County. I say that with complete objectivity, because it once won Best of Show at the Maui County Fair. When Jamie stood to collect his blue ribbon, he was not only two heads taller and a lot more masculine than the competition, but haole (not native to Hawai‘i, and in his case, Caucasian). Talk about stink eye! Happily, a few moments of trading canning tips won over those local ladies, conferring Jamie with kama‘āina credibility. At the office, there’s been some debate over the term kama‘āina. “The literal meaning,” our senior editor notes, “is ‘child of the land,’ someone born here.” By that criterion, my sons are kama‘āina, while I, who have lived in Hawai‘i more than forty years, am not. Another opinion, please. “It’s a mental state, a willingness to embrace what is here,” says one of our writers, who arrived here at the ripe old age of two. “That’s why some people who come here are never considered kama‘āina; they never let go of how they think things should be.” Hmm. I ask Kimokeo Kapahulehua, a friend and respected Hawaiian cultural advisor. “Someone who fits in,” he says. “Do you have to be born here?” I ask. After a moment’s thought, he says, “No, that’s kanaka. Love the land and the people, and be respectful— that’s kama‘āina.” The chutney is ready to jar. I cautiously spoon out a hot dollop to taste and am rewarded with a glorious burst of sweet and sour, spice and bite. “What do you think kama‘āina is?” I ask Jamie as I reach for another spoonful. “Maybe it’s like chutney,” he suggests, “a blend of opposites that get put into a melting pot and make it all work.” I think he has something there—a sweet mix of foreign and local, spiked with a bit of vinegar for respect. It’s a good recipe for our time. Interestingly, the term “melting pot” came from a play first staged in 1908. Written by British author Israel Zangwill, the son of Russian-Jewish immigrants, The Melting Pot celebrated America’s capacity to absorb and grow from the contributions of the many and varied immigrants who came to our shores. “Ah, what a stirring and a seething!” proclaims the play’s protagonist, himself a refugee. “[T]he glory of America, where all nations and races come to labour and look forward!” President Theodore Roosevelt, attending the premiere, is said to have shouted, “That’s a great play, Mr. Zangwill!” As I write this, in October 2016, we are mere weeks away from choosing our next president—and determining the script our country will follow. I hope that whomever we elect, he or she, and all Americans, can embrace the lessons we’ve learned on this little dot in the vast Pacific: “Love the land and the people, and be respectful.” Kanaka or malihini, we all need each other. Soon Jamie and I will tie bright ribbons around the cooling jars of chutney and store them away for holiday gifts. Wishing you a season filled with sweetness and spice, tolerance and love. My heart is filled with gratitude to all of you for your friendship and readership.

talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless

Left: How cold can it get at Haleakalā’s summit? In this 1934 photo, Alvin Ornellas displays a disk of ice two inches thick that formed on a barrel used to store water for the horses. Inset: Seated between fellow corpsmen in December 1934, Rex holds the 22 Mossberg rifle he earned by selling magazine subscriptions—and put to good use, hunting prey on the mountain. Above: Ornellas stands at the edge of the crater in a recent photo. Below: with pickax and shovel, CCC workers carve Halemau‘u Trail.

ISLAND PORTRAIT

Haleakalā National Park is one of Maui’s most popular attractions. It’s an easy drive to the visitor center near the top of the 10,023-foot mountain. But in 1916, the year Congress designated the summits of Haleakalā and Hawai‘i Island’s Mauna Loa and Kīlauea as Hawaii National Park, there wasn’t a road—not even a marked footpath. That was also the year Alvin “Rex” Ornellas was born. (His classmates at St. Anthony Grade School saddled him with the nickname when he started wearing a picture of his favorite movie star, Rex the Wonder Horse, pinned to his school uniform.) Throughout 2016, Rex and Haleakalā have been celebrating their centennials—and a shared history almost as long. In 1933, President Franklin Roosevelt launched a massive federal response to the devastating unemployment that followed the stock market crash of 1929. One of the New Deal’s most successful programs was the Civilian Conservation Corps, or CCC, which employed young men to work on forestry and conservation projects throughout the continental U.S. In 1934, the CCC expanded to the Territory of Hawai‘i, and an eighteen-year-old Alvin Ornellas was among its first recruits.

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“I had graduated from the tenth grade in 1932,” Rex told me in the Wailuku home where he has lived for many years. “I worked with Wailuku Sewer, and then American Can. All of a sudden, that stopped. One day, my father said, ‘I have a job for you.’ My dad told me to go to Kahului. I signed up [with the CCC] and then went to the top of the mountain!” He became part of a twenty-four-man crew assigned to build a trail from the Kalahaku Overlook to the top of White Hill. For Ornellas, born and raised in the coastal plantation community of Pā‘ia, working at the summit was quite an experience. In those days, he recalls, the road up the mountain ended at about 7,500 feet, and so did the truck ride. “We had to walk up to the top. We were not acclimated to walking in that altitude. We had a hard time. We had a suitcase full of clothes, barrels of drinking water—maybe twenty-five-gallon wood barrels—and food. Rice came in 100-pound sacks. We would each only carry the rice about 100 yards. That’s how we took it to the top.” Initially, the crew stayed in a stone rest house at the edge of the crater. “We had a picture view of the crater,” Rex recalls. “The dining room was right on the rim.”

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ALVIN ORNELLAS EXCEPT TOP RIGHT: MAILE WALSH

Uncle Rex and the Mountain

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Above: Photos from 1936 capture Rex shaving outside the tent he shared with Lawrence Oliveira, and shoeing his horse Tony at Palikū Camp. Below: How to cook a whole pig when there’s no kitchen? Dig an imu (underground oven). This one is at Halemau‘u Camp, now site of Hōlua cabin. Hunting dogs were part of the crew; the one at far left, Prince, belonged to Oliveira. To Prince’s right is Queenie—who doubled as a foot warmer at night for Ornellas, seated fourth from right.

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The work was hard, but the men enjoyed it. “We worked from sunrise to sunset, every day, in all sorts of weather. But then Solomon Ho‘opi‘i, who was from a wellknown family of musicians, became sick in camp. He had pneumonia. He went to the Kula sanitarium and he died there. We all went to his funeral.” After Ho‘opi‘i’s death, during bouts of cold and wet weather, the foreman insisted the men stay inside and huddle around the stove to keep warm. From the minimal traces of old hunting paths, they created safe, well-marked trails. “We made a trail about three feet wide, and smooth as a sidewalk,” Ornellas says proudly. “It was all pick and shovel and a rake and yard broom. We did stone-

work with a sledgehammer. We would go through [an old] lava ﬂow and we had to cut stone. We made a beautiful trail.” Rex and his fellow corpsmen helped build the park’s redwood water tanks, public shelters, employee housing, bathroom facilities, water lines, fences and roads. They also helped with silversword conservation, feral animal control, and fire suppression inside the park. The Civilian Conservation Corps operated for more than eight years in the Islands, employing nearly 7,200 men throughout Hawaii National Park. A 2011 Park Service report estimates that as many as fifty men may have worked on Haleakalā as part of the CCC. After the Corps closed

ui a M Above: “Camp Wingate,” at Kapalaoa, was named after Edward G. Wingate, superintendent of Hawaii National Park from 1933 to 1946. Right: “Piholo” and Lawrence Oliveira prep a pig for the imu at Camp Halemau‘u in 1936. Below: Senior mule packer Andrew Piimauna leads four mules to Camp Halemau‘u. Ornellas took this photo while riding behind Piimauna,leading another four mules.

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Ethical, Responsible, Independent Financial Planning and Investment Management its camp there in May 1941, Ornellas and several other Mauians went to work on Kīlauea. “I worked one year there,” says Rex. “I learned how to be an electrician. I learned to climb the [electrical] poles. We wired all the rangers’ quarters.” In 1961, Haleakalā became a separate national park, extending from the summit to the sea along Maui’s southeastern coast. During the National Park Service’s centennial, Ornellas, now better known as “Uncle Rex,” has been a guest speaker at celebrations. The sprightly centenarian remembers the hard work, but also the camaraderie. “We didn’t want to go home on weekends. We enjoyed the mountain.” —Peter von Buol

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He‘e (octopuses) have brief but magical lives. They mature within a year, mate, and die shortly after. What happens in between is the stuff of sci-fi flicks and Beatles’ songs. The “day octopus,” Octopus cyanea, is the most common cephalopod in Hawaiian waters. By day it slinks along the reef, hunting crabs and snails. At night it slips into a tiny cavity to rest. Divers can spot an octopus den by the empty shells piled at its entrance— otherwise known as an “octopus garden.” Spotting he‘e at large underwater isn’t so easy. These masters of camouflage are intelligent and as slippery as Houdini. They can alter their appearance in seconds and escape just about any enclosure. Sensory organs on their eight arms allow them to perfectly mimic the colors and textures of surrounding corals. If threatened, he‘e can shoot a cloud of ink and disappear in the opposite direction. According to Hawaiian ethnologist Mary Kawena Pukui, octopus ink, or kūkae uli, was a

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N A SO

nickname for those who created distractions to escape punishment. The term applied to prostitutes during Hawai‘i’s whaling days. Octopus sex is otherworldly. A male he‘e pursues a female across the seafloor, their bodies transforming in shape and color as they move. Finally, he unfurls a come-hither tentacle—a specially adapted arm loaded with spermatophores—and slips it into her mantle cavity. Then off he goes. She retreats into her lair, which she decorates with strings of fertilized eggs. For six weeks, she gently fans oxygenated water across her brood without pause. She starves to death, but her progeny repopulate the reef. A Hawaiian proverb indicates that now’s the time to look for these mystifying creatures: Pua ke kō, kū mai ka he‘e. “When the sugarcane flowers, the octopus appears.” Hawaiian sugarcane, or kō, blooms in November, which corresponds with peak abundance of octopuses on the reefs.—Shannon Wianecki

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DAY IN THE LIFE

A Mermaid’s Tale NAME Madeline | TITLE Mermaid, Grand Wailea Resort On a scale of one to ten, Madeline the Mermaid has to be the nicest half-girl/half-fish we’ve had the pleasure to interview. When in season (spring break, summer and Christmas vacations), Madeline visits the Grand Wailea’s Activity Pool, a 770,000-gallon playground of slides, waterfalls, caves and pools. While there, she swims, plays and chats with youngsters until the lure of salt water draws her back out to sea. WHAT THE JOB ENTAILS “I swim out from under the waterfall, introduce myself, and ask the children where they come from. I am very intentional about remembering their names; it makes it magical for them. We swim underwater, take pictures . . . some girls and boys stay with me the whole time I’m there.” YOU GO, GILLFRIEND! Her job as official mermaid is more than just fun and games. “I consider myself a professional encourager,” Madeline says. “Kids open up to me and tell me their fears. I show them that the water isn’t something to be afraid of. One little boy was afraid to jump from the Tarzan swing into the pool. I swam with him and encouraged him, and he jumped! “I’m not a marine expert, but I share my ocean experiences: the best places to find turtles, what time of year to see whales. I also make the children aware of safety rules, and if I see dangerous behavior, I guide them to different activities.” HOW DID SHE LAND THE POSITION? “I visited the Grand Wailea in 2014, jumped right into a photo shoot that was happening, and met Yvonne. She gave me the job.” (Madeline is the hotel’s first, and so far only, mermaid on staff.) “What we look for in a mermaid is someone who can engage with children of all ages,” says Yvonne Biegel, Grand Wailea’s director of marketing. With Madeline, they waived an audition. “Children are very honest and ask interesting questions—and Madeline has never faltered.” Madeline says she’s most often asked her age, and how long mermaids live. “I tell them I’m nineteen, and I don’t know yet how long mermaids live, but I’ll find out.” FISH STORIES What’s the biggest misconception humans have about mermaids? “Kids ask whether I kill and eat pirates,” Madeline says sadly.

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Photography by Jason Moore

Drop by the Grand Wailea’s activity pool, and you might find Madeline immersed in her role as staff mermaid.

“I don’t. Any pirate can be my friend.” She suspects the rumor began with movies that in recent years have depicted sirens—those fin fatales of the sea—as mermaids. Not true, she insists, adding that even when she’s at the Grand Wailea, with its award-winning restaurants, her diet consists purely of seaweed. What’s the biggest misconception mermaids have about humans? “A lot of mermaids are afraid of humans. We’re very shy; that’s why you hardly ever see us.” Her own ease with people probably derives from her mixed heritage. “My family is full of humans,” she explains, leading us to wonder whether any of them might be Finnish. Then she surprises us by saying, “I only became a mermaid two years ago, when I came here. I always had that potential. The Grand Wailea brought out the magic.” A ROLE MODEL FOR SMALL FRY “Mermaids are miracles,” Madeline notes, so she understands why youngsters want to emulate her. “The Grand Wailea’s children’s store has tails for purchase, and if a girl wants to be a mermaid, I’ll teach her how to swim with a tail. It’s a core workout, a dolphin kick that uses the whole body. I teach boys, too; their tails have shark fins. “One mom and dad told me their little girl’s dream was to be handed a tail by a real mermaid.” Madeline presented the four-year-old with a tail of her own, and was moved by the parents’ tears at seeing the little girl’s delight. “The kids are the reason I come back,” she says. “I appreciate the smiles on their faces, the joy I’m able to bring. I tell the kids, when they receive a tail, ‘Once you’re a mermaid, you always are.’”—Rita Goldman When not on duty, the Grand Wailea’s mermaid enjoys traveling incognito as Madeline Hamada. She also attends (what else?) school. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

 ISLAND BUSINESS 

Kitchen Startup Maui’s new Food Innovation Center offers entrepreneurs recipes for success. Jen Fordyce teaches high school English and moonlights as a pickle maker. She collects bushels of Maui-grown cucumbers, cuts them into thick slices, and brines them with her secret recipes to produce crunchy, savory snacks. Her startup company, Waikapū Pickles, has a sassy motto: “Pickles for the People.” But getting her pickles into people’s hands requires considerable business savvy. So, last spring, Fordyce signed up for the Maui Food Innovation Center’s accelerator program. Accelerators, startups, innovation . . . aren’t these tech industry terms? Yes, and the forward-thinking faculty at the University of Hawai‘i–Maui College is bringing them to the kitchen table. Launched in January 2016, the Maui Accelerator Program (MAP) is the cutting edge of the college’s Food Innovation Center. “Conversations around innovation typically don’t include food,” says coordinator Chris Speere. “But food innovation can impact us all on a daily basis. It has tangible results.” Tangible and tasty. Fordyce says that she enjoyed gourmet pickles in New England, but after moving to Maui, “I didn’t find any

pickles beside the green fluorescent kind.” She teamed with farmer Mahie Atay to make their own, teasing the flavors out of local ingredients. “We’d been in business a year and were ready to think about how to grow,” says Fordyce. But the leap from the farmer’s market to grocery shelves is a big one. Smallbusiness owners can get stymied trying to navigate new regulations or source affordable equipment—particularly challenging in Hawai‘i, where shipping often costs more than the product itself. Fordyce and Atay pack their pickles in glass jars, which are expensive to import and frequently arrive broken. “Those larger systemic issues are what MAP is poised to tackle,” says Speere. His team can help coordinate shipments with other island companies that need glass bottles or jars, reducing everyone’s costs. They can recommend alternative packaging, such as pouches or buckets for wholesale clients. “You could spend hours online trying to find a certain type of equipment Jen Fordyce (right) and Mahie Atay prep their or package,” says Speere. “Or you Waikapū Pickles in the can come to us. We’ll search our Maui Food Innovation extensive data base or put it out Center’s kitchen. to our network of food experts.”

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Such support is invaluable for fledgling entrepreneurs, and MAP offers it for a bargain: just $300 for an eight-week course. So far, the Food Innovation Center has hosted two MAP cohorts of twelve participants each. Fordyce belonged to the second cohort. Over eight Monday evenings, she attended presentations by faculty and guest experts, such as Arnie Koss, creator of Earth’s Best organic baby foods; Mark Ausbeck, consulting engineer with Innovate Hawaii; and retired Nestlé executive Helmut Traitler. The program allows food industry veterans to offer insights into branding, packaging, financing, distribution, and customer relations. Sessions culminate in a pitch night: each entrepreneur presents her product to a panel of judges and potential investors. The top three pitches each receive $5,000. Taro farmer Lani Eckart-Dodd gave one of the winning pitches. She plans to popularize poi in single-serve pouches, marketing it to everyone from athletes to babies. Another winner, Dawn Anderson, produces B Raw bars—high quality energy bars sold in several Maui groceries. Speere and Ausbeck analyzed her production cycle to identify inefficiencies. She demonstrated the steps: mix ingredients, pour into molds, freeze, trim frozen bars to size, package, and seal. Ausbeck suggested that she cut out the time-consuming trim Opposite: Hungry to know what entrepreneurs are cooking up at the Maui Food Innovation Center? Here’s a sampler, clockwise from top left: Waikapū Pickles on their way to the jar; the pounded taro corm at the root of Lani Eckart-Dodd’s idea for popularizing poi; Dawn Anderson’s bRaw energy bars; and Michelle Valentin’s yummy take on healthy raw snacks.

UH MAUI COLLEGE; OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT, JEN FORDYCE, LANI ECKART-DODD, DAWN ANDERSON, MICHELLE VALENTIN

STORY BY SHANNON WIANECKI

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

« ISLAND BUSINESS »

by investing in custom-sized silicone molds. Speere sourced a manufacturer for the molds, helping her increase her efficiency 50 percent. On top of the expert advice, MAP participants benefit from collaborating with colleagues. All kinds of cross-pollination occur. “James Simpliciano was in my cohort,” says Fordyce. “He has a greenhouse, so I gave him cucumber seeds.” In the future, Simpliciano may provide the raw material for Waikapū Pickles. The West Side farmer grows a cornucopia of crops, including moringa, an emerging superfood. He’s marketing a nutrient-packed powder made from its leaves. Fordyce also took advantage of another MAP perk: use of the Laulima Kitchen at UHMC. She and Atay met there to talk strategy with Cory Vicens, the Maui Food Innovation Center’s marketing and communications specialist. Their goal: Get Waikapū Pickles into Whole Foods. Infiltrating the gourmet grocery chain is so complex— and potentially lucrative—that people have posted instructional videos on YouTube. Whole Foods is the yardstick for many small-scale food producers; each aspect of their business must comply with exacting standards. For example, products must be individually marked with food-safety registration numbers that allow the FDA to track each item in the event of a health emergency. Fordyce appreciates the stringency. Producing food is “a huge liability,” she says.

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“Pickling and fermenting in particular.” The Whole Foods application forced her to do her homework. Now she and Atay are ready for the final step: third-party evaluation of their production process. They’re lucky to have Vicens as a coach; her background is in quality control and manufacturing. Vicens helped them diagram their cutting and brining workstations and recommended that they face one another, which improves efficiency. The Pilina Building’s kitchen, past home of UHMC’s culinary arts program and campus cafeteria, is actually the genesis of the Maui Food Innovation Center. In 2011, the State approved funds to turn it into a high-tech food production facility. A rural-development study showed that to optimize its use, people would need training. The Food Innovation Center formed to meet this need, and began offering courses in food safety and manufacturing in 2014. But it was launching MAP that gave the center momentum, says Speere. “That’s when we really started to touch our local food entrepreneurs.” A new $7 million facility, slated to open in 2019, will feature manufacturing kitchens for wet and dry processing and packaging. “It’ll be open to entrepreneurs with a proven track record in the food community,” says Vicens. “You’ll pay an hourly rate [and] have access to all of our state-of-the-art equipment.” She hopes to see local chefs, farmers and ranchers also make use of the opportunity.

Overwhelmingly, women have shown the most interest in the Maui Food Innovation Center. The first MAP cohort had one male and eleven female students; the second had two males. “The entrepreneurs on Maui are women,” says Speere. “Even in the culinary school, it’s 70 percent women.” Speere ran Maui Culinary Academy for many years, and witnessed the gender divide. “I think women have a natural affinity for culinary arts, but didn’t want the lifestyle.” The grueling schedule of working late nights, weekends, and holidays is enough to dissuade many aspiring chefs, particularly those with young children. “With your own business, you have a little more freedom.” Plus, says Speere, women bring different attributes to the workforce, creating a more nurturing, flexible and collaborative environment. Fordyce, for example, applies everything she learned in education to her new venture. “I want to create opportunities so my students don’t have to leave [Maui],” she says. Indeed, business incubators like MAP generate up to twenty times more jobs than other federally funded community infrastructure projects, according to the National Business Incubation Association. And Maui’s is the first food incubator in the state. Technology may be the ticket to more efficient food manufacturing, but at its heart, the industry is about feeding people and nourishing communities. “For people in our cohort, ‘Made on Maui’ isn’t just a tagline,” says Fordyce. “It’s an ideal.” The center’s latest offering, a Master Food Preservers course, taught students how to cure meats, make sausages, can jellies, ferment vegetables, and dehydrate fruits. The first iteration of this course was held on Moloka‘i, where cottage industries are a primary source of residents’ income. Meanwhile, Waikapū Pickles is ramping up production. What’s next after it conquers Whole Foods? Fordyce laughs. “I want to be the pickle lady of Maui first. I’m not worried about Japan yet.”

This article is dedicated to Refugio Gonzales, faculty member and instrumental partner in the Maui Accelerator Program, who passed away in August. Gonzales was deeply admired and appreciated by everyone he touched.

BRAW COURTESY OF DAWN ANDERSON; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF UH-MAUI COLLEGE

Clockwise from top left: Michelle Valentin pitches her tasty raw snacks to a panel of industry professionals. Dawn Anderson is exuberant about her bRaw energy bars. Lani Eckart-Dodd’s travel-sized, single-serving pouches are aptly named Holo ‘Ai, Poi on the Go. Guest speaker and Maui Native Hawaiian Chamber of Commerce president Teri Freitas Gorman mentors the first cohort on how to pitch their products and themselves.

« ADVENTURE »

This remote Moloka‘i valley is home to hardy Hawaiians, lizard deities, and ﬁsh that climb waterfalls.

ROB DECAMP

i neck Wia c n De amp no Rob S t o r y by S h a n y cki b iane phy a W r g n o Phot o ann & Sh

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« ADVENTURE »

Top: Hālawa Valley was one of the first places settled by early Polynesian voyagers. Bottom row, from left: Pilipo Solotario’s family has lived here for generations, catching fish along the rocky coast and growing taro in paddies. Most of the population moved away after a pair of tsunamis, but the Solotarios remain, caring for the land. Opposite: Coconut palms shade the site of Solotario’s former elementary school.

Viewed from the roadside lookout, Hālawa Valley’s colors are vivid enough to jumpstart a heart. Jeweled green forest spills down the cliff faces. Curtains of mist part to reveal bright silver threads stitched into the valley’s back walls: twin waterfalls plunging 1,000-plus feet into hidden pools. A silt-dark river wends across a grey sand beach, emptying into the sunlit turquoise lagoon. My eyes drink it in. Landscapes like this heal parts of me I didn’t know needed healing. Long before I visited Hālawa, I heard it whispering: “Come here, come here. . . .” This verdant notch carved into the northeastern tip of Moloka‘i has magnetic pull. Like so many special places, it’s best to come here by invitation. So I booked a guided hike with the Solotarios, who claim that fifty generations of family members have called Hālawa home. I woke early to follow the Kamehameha V Highway past the ancient fishponds strung like necklaces along Moloka‘i’s leeward shore, past the scenic pastures of Pu‘u O Hoku Ranch and down the serpentine single-lane road that terminates at the mouth of Hālawa Stream. Pilipo Solotario and his son Greg are there to meet me. They cut a striking image, dressed in kīhei (capes), tī leaf lei, and kukui nut necklaces with boar tusk pendants. Seventy-seven-year-old Pilipo is a charismatic storyteller who is well known and loved by the Moloka‘i community. He was chosen

by his grandfather at age five to carry on the family’s cultural traditions and serve as caretaker for the land. “He says he’s retired, but still shows up every day,” says Greg, who recently returned to Hālawa to help shoulder his father’s responsibilities. Together they live off-grid in this isolated paradise, farming taro, hunting and fishing, and leading cultural hikes six days a week. Only a handful of people live in Hālawa now, but the remote valley once contained a bustling community. Greg points to the ruins of a stone church, built in 1852, and the foundation of an elementary school, built in 1886. The school may be gone, but one of its star pupils sits beside us. Pilipo attended Hālawa School until the eighth grade. He’s the oldest original resident of the valley. A few Canadian visitors arrive to join us for the hike. Greg leads us up to his family’s land, where we have the privilege of participating in a customary Hawaiian protocol. Greg blows a conch and chants in Hawaiian, requesting permission to enter. Pilipo responds in kind and greets each of us with a traditional honi—touching noses and inhaling. It’s an especially appropriate reception in Hālawa, which translates as hā (breath) and lawa (sufficient). We follow Pilipo into a small room to learn more about the area’s fascinating history. Hālawa is among the oldest known settlements in the Hawaiian Islands. In 1975, Pilipo helped archeologist Patrick Kirch survey the valley’s numerous sites, including Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

« ADVENTURE »

The Solotarios offer a living history lesson with Hawaiian protocol, photos of the valley pre-tsunami, and ethnobotany demonstrations. Bottom row, left to right: The author and Pilipo exchange honi (a Polynesian greeting). Mashed kukui nuts yield rich oil. Greg Solotario with longtime friend Julie Bicoy, director of the Destination Molokai Visitors Bureau. Kukui flowers cluster on the tree that symbolizes enlightenment.

1,222 lo‘i kalo (taro patches) and 24 heiau (temples). In ancient times, around 5,000 Hawaiians lived here. Thatched hale (houses) decorated the mountainside. People communicated with pū, conch shells, whose trumpeting calls ricocheted against the valley walls. The estuary was rich in marine life. When Pilipo was young, taro patches filled the valley basin where forest stands today. There was a poi factory, a little pier, and car and foot bridges that crossed the stream. “The swinging bridges were known as the ‘hula bridges,’” Pilipo tells us, “because you danced when crossing them.” Auntie Harriet Ne taught him to dance real hula, and in turn he taught the famous kumu John Lake. When Pilipo was six, life in Hālawa changed forever. On April 1, 1946, a tsunami tore through the valley. The weather at daybreak was beautiful, but the women walking to church saw the ocean receding strangely. They rang the bell and everyone evacuated up the mountain. Seawater surged into the valley. “The most frightening sounds were the trees cracking and boulders rolling when the water went back out,” says Pilipo, tearing up as he relives the memory. “My grandfather began wailing. The tidal wave exposed hundreds of bones from an ancient battle.” When the water receded, it took everything with it: trees, houses, and buildings. The lo‘i were flooded with sand. Many families left the valley then. A second tsunami in 1957 drove the remainders

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away. Pilipo was away in the Navy by then; he enlisted at age sixteen. But he never forgot his grandfather’s charge to care for the land and his cultural heritage. He returned to Moloka‘i in 1970 and devoted much of his life to educating people about Hawaiian history and arts. He resumed full-time residence in Hālawa in 2008. Pilipo stays behind while Greg leads our group outside for the hike. We thread through the family’s beautifully restored lo‘i and cross the stream into the forest. Greg points out archeological features as we pass them: rock walls delineating house sites and heiau. He scans the forest for signs of wild boar he’ll return to hunt later. The tusks around his neck aren’t mere trophies, he says, but symbols that identify him as belonging to this place. Their curvature mirrors the shape of the valley. The surrounding kukui nuts represent enlightenment. “Wearing them is a reminder to conduct myself with integrity,” he says. It’s clear that he’s stepping into his father’s role as a torchbearer. We stop amidst a kukui grove for an ethnobotanical demonstration. Greg picks up some kukui nuts and mashes them with a rock to release their fragrant oil. Early Hawaiians burned the oil-rich nuts as candles and applied the gum from raw nuts as an antiseptic. The angular trees are beautiful, with pale green, maple-like leaves. “On moonlit nights,” says Greg, “the dust on the leaves glows.”

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

« ADVENTURE »

See the mo‘o (lizard god) peeking out over the waterfall? Mo‘o‘ula Falls is named for this mythological creature that can be benevolent or fierce. Top right: Petroglyphs also inhabit the valley, visible to those who look carefully. Lower right: Relaxed pose aside, Greg Solotario is serious about his commitment to the family’s land.

We proceed through the patterned shade and I imagine exploring this enchanted terrain by moonlight. Greg interrupts my reverie to point out the hike’s star attraction: a cascading waterfall, visible through the ferns and palm fronds. “Most island maps call this stream by the wrong name,” he says. “It’s not Moa‘ula, which means red chicken. It’s Mo‘o‘ula, red lizard.” Mo‘o are Hawaiian lizard gods—fierce guardians of fresh water—and Moloka‘i is full of stories about these mythic creatures. He points to a huge rock perched over the waterfall. “That doesn’t look like a chicken, does it?” In fact, it resembles a large, crouching lizard surveying his domain. When we reach the pool, we take a moment to ask the mo‘o’s permission before diving in. The water is wonderfully cold—perfect after the hot, humid trek. I swim beneath the waterfall and let it thunder down onto me. My kind of baptism. Afterward, we sun ourselves on the rocks like lizards. One of the Canadians spots a pudgy teardrop resting in the shallows and asks, “What kind of fish is that?” To my astonishment, I recognize the distinctive half-black, half-red fish. It’s an ala mo‘o—one of five native freshwater gobies, known for their remarkable ability to climb the vertical rock face of waterfalls. Ala mo‘o in particular prefer the pure water of high-elevation streams. I’ve never seen one before and, to be honest, never expected to see one. This rare stream inhabitant is sign of a healthy riparian ecosystem. How appropriate to discover the ala mo‘o fish in the mo‘o stream! That isn’t the only treasure the valley serves up, either. I’ve read that petroglyphs, ancient rock carvings, can be found in Hālawa. I ask Greg, who points almost nonchalantly behind me. I turn and see a large, lichen-covered stone in the middle of the stream. Its flat face bears a faint etching. I scramble down closer to inspect. It’s a stick-figure man holding a rainbow. His message of hope, drawn by Hālawa’s former inhabitants, is carried forward by the valley’s current caretakers.

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IF YOU GO The hike is 3.4 miles round-trip across streams and through muddy terrain. Wear a swimsuit, clothes and footwear you don’t mind getting wet. Bring water, snacks, camera, sunscreen, mosquito repellant, and raincoat. $60 for adults, $35 for children ages 6–12; cash only. HalawaValleyMolokai.com | 808-542-1855

« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

All in the There’s a saying in English that you can’t choose your family. But with an ancient and enduring Hawaiian tradition called hānai, sometimes you can. Hānai is, loosely speaking, the Hawaiian word for adoption, but its meaning is less rigid than its western equivalent. For one thing, hānai children know their biological families and usually keep close ties to them. In fact, in most cases, babies are placed in homes with blood relatives. In pre-contact Hawai‘i, paternal grandparents had an indisputable claim on the first-born boy, maternal grandparents on the first-born girl. This was a practical arrangement, since hānai was an efficient way for a preliterate society to pass knowledge and culture down the generations. It still is. When Hōkūlani Holt was born, she was taken directly from the hospital to live with her mother’s parents in Waiehu. “My grandparents asked for me,” she says. “They went three times to the hospital, till finally my father said yes.” Her grandparents, who had

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raised fifteen children of their own, missed having youngsters in the house, and took in not just Hōkūlani, but also several other cousins. An esteemed kumu hula (hula teacher), Hōkūlani believes her hānai upbringing “absolutely contributed” to her path. “My grandma [a kumu hula] was pure Hawaiian, and my grandpa was half, and they spoke Hawaiian. It was a country lifestyle, with Hawaiian cultural practices around me all the time. So it’s not that she taught me in the western sense; it’s that she lived it, and I learned.” She laments that there seems to be less hānai nowadays, as Hawaiians increasingly perceive it as “giving away your children.” During the nineteenth century, missionaries were reported to have looked with disdain upon the custom, comparing the practice to doling out puppies. But those involved in hānai, both traditionally and today, never saw it as “giving away,” but rather as “sharing.” The family didn’t get smaller, it expanded. Hōkūlani says that she was the common bond that strengthened the relationship between her birth mother and

Story by KAZZ REGELMAN Illustration by MATT FOSTER

Family

This ancient Hawaiian practice gives new meaning to the phrase “All things are relative.”

her grandparents. “They kept in touch much more than they would have otherwise.” From kings to farmers, from ancient history into present day, hānai has been not just a way for childless couples to raise children, but also for family borders to shift and undulate, encompassing more than the modern nuclear family. Historically, hānai was also used for political purposes, linking ruling families. Perhaps the most famous example was King Kalākaua, given in hānai to High Chiefess Ha‘aheo Kaniu. Lili‘uokalani, Hawai‘i’s last monarch, was the hānai child of chiefs higher ranking than her biological parents. In her autobiography, Hawaii’s Story by Hawaii’s Queen, she wrote that hānai “seems perfectly natural to us. . . . this alliance by adoption cemented the ties of friendship between the chiefs. It spread to the common people, and it has doubtless fostered a community of interest and harmony.” As a strategy, hānai had an advantage over alliances forged through marriage: While it’s not uncommon to have conflict with

parents-in-law (another enduring tradition), people are less likely to wage war against their own parents, either biological or adoptive. Hānai was considered binding, and for life. In the ancient tradition, when the baby was handed over, the biological parents would say, “Nau ke keiki, kūkae a na‘au. (“Yours is the child, excreta, intestines and all.”) Hānai children were loved and doted upon no differently than biological children. When Ka‘ahumanu, favorite queen consort of Kamehameha I, died in 1832, she bequeathed her substantial landholdings to her hānai daughter Ruth Ke‘elikōlani, who, largely based on this inheritance, became the wealthiest woman in the Islands, owning almost 9 percent of the total lands of Hawai‘i. There are countless modern examples of hānai, from key figures in Hawaiian society (such as famed linguist Kaliko Beamer-Trapp, hānai son of “Auntie Nona” Beamer, a champion of traditional Hawaiian culture) to everyday people with huge hearts and huge hānai families to match. The late Haroldleen and Sam Kaleleiki, for example, had Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

As a strategy, hānai had an advantage over alliances forged through marriage: While it’s not uncommon to have conflict with parents-in-law (another enduring tradition), people are less likely to wage war against their own parents, either biological or adoptive. at one point around twenty-five biological, hānai, and temporarily visiting children in their home—so many that they took numbers to shower. When Sam passed away in 2015, his obituary illustrated the bonds of hānai, stating he was survived by daughters with two different maiden names and sons with three different family names. One of those sons, Kalehua Bellotto, has traced four generations of blood and nonblood relatives moving in and out of their house. As an adult, Kalehua fostered three children. Decades later, they are still close. “I raised them in the tradition of hānai. They know I love them, and my Hawaiian family recognizes them as family, too.” In his article “Hawaiian Family System of Hana, Maui, 1957,” published in the Journal of the Polynesian Society, John Forster reports on a study of seventy-three households in that rural East Maui community. Seventeen of them contained a total of thirtyone hānai children, three adopted under U.S. law, and eight who were ho‘okama, a variant of hānai in which children past babyhood, and even adults, are made part of the family. The term ho‘okama,

practically lost today, was used into the early missionary era to describe these relationships, sometimes instigated at the child’s request, sometimes at the parents’, and sometimes just as a natural evolution of affection. In modern times, people often refer to families as hānai when the arrangement is actually ho‘okama. This relatively new usage for hānai is, according to Hōkūlani, an example of the nuances lost “when people ceased to speak Hawaiian as a primary language in the early twentieth century.” Hānai, with its connotation of nursing (its most literal meaning is “feeding”), was originally used for babies raised by nonbiological parents. Yet even in Forster’s 1957 study, the term was already being loosely used to include ho‘okama. E.S. Craighill Handy, author of the seminal work The Polynesian Family System in Ka‘u, Hawai‘i, became ho‘okama himself to research the book—which, among other topics, examines the traditions of hānai and ho‘okama. Pa‘ahana Wiggin, the mother of Dr. Handy’s assistant Mary Kawena Pukui, “adopted” Handy and his wife and co-researcher, Elizabeth Green Handy, knowing that, while many people wouldn’t be willing to talk to an outsider, they would open up to a Hawaiian family member. For master maoli (native Hawaiian) artist Al Lagunero, it’s not surprising that hānai and ho‘okama expand the western concept of family—since, in the Hawaiian worldview, “family” encompasses the natural world. He cites the story of kalo (the taro plant), which Hawaiians consider the older brother of Hāloa, the first Hawaiian, and therefore an ancestor of all Hawaiians. Brotherhood is an apt metaphor for the relationship between this staple food crop and the people who care for and are sustained by it. Al also notes the

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Hānai remained a common practice among Hawaiian royalty even after western contact. Among the bestknown examples, from left, are David Kalākaua (circa 1850), known as the “Merrie Monarch”; Lydia Kamaka‘eha Pākī (circa 1850), the future Queen Lili‘uokalani; and her own hānai daughter, Ruth Ke‘elikōlani (circa1870).

popular belief among Hawaiians in “the friendliness of endemic trees. The native trees allow other trees to grow beside them, and form symbiotic relationships.” By comparison, “check out what the [introduced] ironwood forests have done, excluding these relationships with carpets of pine needles.” An old Hawaiian chant says, “Mahalo e na kūpuna, Mahalo me ke aloha”—“Thank you to the elders. Thank you with love.” This oli mahalo (chant of gratitude) acknowledges that the devotion and affection of hānai and ho‘okama flow both ways, not just from the older to the younger generation. Susan Victor (not her real name) was twenty-one when she moved from the Midwest to study at O‘ahu’s East-West Center. She was assigned a sponsor who invited her over for meals, introduced her to Hawaiian customs, and helped

her set up her new life far from home. They grew to consider each other family, and in the end, Susan took care of her “hānai mom.” “I would spend holidays with her, take her to doctors’ appointments. I had power of attorney for my hānai mom. At the hospital, they thought I was her biological daughter. I spread her ashes.” Part of the challenge in understanding hānai is that it is misused nowadays to include hānai in the traditional sense, ho‘okama, and even western-style adoption. But those who have experienced it all describe it the same way: hānai is the spirit of aloha. Kalehua Bellotto, Sam Kaleleiki’s hānai son, feels that being a product of hānai has made him “more complete, knowing I was raised and loved by so many as if I were their own.” Then he corrects himself, “I am their own. I belong to all of them.”

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

CHASING WATERFALLS After a good rain, East Maui overflows with waterfalls. Some plummet 400 feet over fern-filled ledges, sending a halo of mist rising from wet rocks. Others trickle softly into deep jadeite pools. Hawaiian mo‘o (lizard deities) are said to protect these freshwater tributaries, which can swell to raging rivers during flash floods. If you choose to enter the mo‘o’s domain, do so with respect and common sense. Photo by R.J. Bridges

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S TO R Y B Y S H A N N O N W I A N E C K I

Shaka [shah-kah] noun 1. Extension of thumb and pinkie to form a “Y”; 2. A hand gesture conveying a quintessentially Hawaiian greeting, a sign of friendly intent. (See also: “Hang loose.”) Maybe it’s the air that makes Maui so magical. Slightly humid and eighty-five degrees year-round, it carries the scent of plumeria, sea salt, and red dirt. It embraces you the moment you step off the plane or out of the sea. Maybe it’s the people, who remember how to smile, share, and slow down—most of the time. Whatever it is, we cherish it. And every year, we publish the Shaka List: a serenade to some of what makes Maui nō ka ‘oi—number one, the best, the Goldilocks island. This year we’ve reprised several of our longstanding favorites, from enduring landmarks to local institutions (1–10). We’ve also turned the spotlight on nascent things (11–20): emerging tastes, places, and projects that suggest the future is every bit as superlative as the past.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

« MAUI STYLE » Drop in and you might witness pyramid butterflyfish getting cleaned by a wrasse off Molokini Islet’s secluded back wall.

MOLOKINI’S BACK WALL Take a giant stride off a dive boat bobbing alongside Molokini to descend into another world; the crater’s sheer back wall plummets 300-plus feet. Ogle sea urchins waving spiny fingers, shy sharks turning circles in caves, spotted boxfish, and marvelous nudibranchs—tiny sea slugs outfitted in fluorescent patterns bolder than Jimi Hendrix’s bellbottoms. Whale song serves as a soundtrack during the winter months. Megafauna fans, take note: Monk seals, manta rays, and whale sharks occasionally rise from the deep to say hello. Photos by James Petruzzi

HALEAKALĀ NATIONAL PARK Haleakalā became a national park 100 years ago, when Hawai‘i was still a U.S. territory. Over the past century, park rangers fenced the summit, removed feral goats and invasive pines, and helped revive the populations of native silverswords and nēnē (Hawaiian geese).

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YEAR-ROUND SUNSHINE = increased happiness and health. Illustration by Matt Foster

Haleakalā has it all: charismatic birds, Martian landscape pocked with lava bombs, and rain forest spilling with waterfalls. Drive up the side of this sleeping volcano, hike down into the House of the Sun, and discover for yourself why Edward Abbey once said: “Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit.” Photo by Conn Brattain

T. KOMODA STORE & BAKERY Happy 100th birthday to our favorite Makawao mom-and-pop shop! Don’t leave Maui without a box full of Komoda’s stick donuts and cream puffs sealed with their telltale yellow tape. 3674 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao; 808-572-7261

STAND-UP PADDLING When we first featured this addictive watersport in 2007, the fad was so new, we didn’t know what to call it! (We opted for “paddle-surfing.”) Now SUP is ubiquitous; the silhouettes gliding across the horizon are poetry in motion. Photo by Jason Moore

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

THREE FLAVORS OF SAND From top: red (Kaihalulu), golden (Mākena State Park), and black (Wai‘ānapanapa State Park). Photos by Bob Bangerter

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DARK SKIES Light pollution has effectively erased the night sky over much of the United States. Not so on Maui. Tilt your head towards the Milky Way. Drink in the stars, the yet-unexplored galaxies, and ponder your small spot in this infinite universe. Photo by Mike Neal Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

9 HALE O PI‘ILANI AT KAHANU GARDEN Stand beneath the fifty-foothigh exterior wall of Hale o Pi‘ilani to gain a new perspective on Hawaiian architecture. Eight centuries ago, Hawaiians passed rocks hand-to-hand from as far as seven miles away to build this colossal three-acre heiau (temple). Today the awe-inspiring structure is surrounded by a living museum of hala (pandanus) trees and canoe plants. If that weren’t enough, the site houses the world’s largest collection of ‘ulu (breadfruit), maintained by the National Tropical Botanical Garden. Could the starchy, cannonball-sized fruit ease world hunger? Its proponents think so. Ula‘ino Road, Hāna. 808-248-8912, NTBG.org, 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Self-guided tour with booklet, $10. Photo by John Giordani

HULIAU ZERO WASTE EVENTS Malia Cahill and the amazing keiki (kids) at Maui Huliau have expanded from filmmaking to waste reduction. Seriously . . . could they be any cooler? These hip students will supply your event with reusable bamboo sporks and compostable plates and cheerfully ensure guests toss compost and recyclables into proper bins. “Reducing the amount of waste we produce is our kuleana [privilege/responsibility] for living on this beautiful island,” says fifteen-year-old Dylan Falces. We agree! MauiHuliauFoundation.org/ ZeroWaste Photo by Bryan Berkowitz

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LEI DAY For the week surrounding May first, public and private schools celebrate aloha with flower-decked hula and song competitions. Come see and hear. Learning has never sounded nor smelled so sweet. Photo by Mieko Horikoshi

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HĀNA BURGER East Maui sunshine must be the magic ingredient at Hāna Ranch’s charming new food truck. Nearly every item on the menu—from the juicy, grass-fed beef burger to the green papaya slaw and pickled daikon—is grown or caught nearby and superbly delicious. Open 11 a.m.–4 p.m. 5670 Hāna Highway, just past Hāna town. 808-268-2820

UPCOUNTRY FARMERS MARKET This bonanza of fresh veggies and flowers has been around for four decades in various incarnations, but in the last two years it’s really blossomed. Every Saturday, the parking lot at the Kulamalu Town Center overflows with vendors selling ripe papayas, bouquets of kale, liliko‘i butter, flowering succulents, and much more. Live music, too! 7–11 a.m. Photo by Lehia Apana

TIN ROOF MAUI Stop by Sheldon and Janice Simeon’s new eatery for crazy delicious mochiko chicken, pork belly, and fresh takes on Filipino comfort food. Stellar extras: “dime bags” of crunchy furikake and chocolate birthday cake bibingka sprinkled with pop rocks that explode in your mouth. ‘Onolicious! Order online to skip the wait. 360 Papa Place, Kahului; 808-868-0753; TinRoofMaui.com

HOLOHOLO BOOKMOBILE We love the Maui Friends of the Library. If it weren’t for the MFOL volunteers, Central Maui would be without a bookstore—a fate too horrible to imagine. Browse the shelves at any one of their three locations islandwide to score dog-eared volumes of Shakespeare, Milton, and Hawaiian collectibles for 25¢ and up. The newest reason to love MFOL? With $280k raised at their bookstores, the volunteers purchased a library on wheels christened “Holoholo,” Hawaiian for “cruising.” It’s staffed with a full-time librarian and stocked with books to borrow. Keep an eye out for it in your neighborhood! MFOL.org

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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BRYAN BERKOWITZ

HAWAIIAN HUMPBACK WHALE RECOVERY Pop the champagne! Thanks to the international ban on commercial whaling and other protections, the population of humpback whales that winter in the Hawaiian Islands grew from 4,000 to 10,000. The charismatic cetaceans migrated right off of the Endangered Species List this fall! To appreciate this milestone, duck your head under water. Hold your breath and listen to these mysterious giants of the deep sing to one another. Whoa. Or eavesdrop on their live conversation at WhaleSong.net. Photo by Jason Moore

Poet laureate emeritus William S. Merwin in his “green room” on Maui’s north shore

THE GREEN ROOM At the Merwin Conservancy’s monthly literary salon, Maui residents can rub elbows and share ideas with some of the world’s most stellar writers, poets, and environmentalists. The McCoy Studio Theater at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center is an intimate venue for listening to readings by the likes of Barry Lopez, Naomi Shihab Nye, Terry Tempest Williams and Abraham Verghese. Proceeds benefit W.S. Merwin’s outstanding palm forest in Pe‘ahi. MerwinConservancy.org Photo by Thomas Sewell

PONO PIES Healthy dessert made from local breadfruit? Grab your fork— there’s pono (righteous) pie! Maui Breadfruit Company, PonoPies.com

MAUI LITTLE LEAGUE WORLD CHAMPS Maui sluggers had a historic season this year; four baseball teams qualified for two World Series championships. The Central Maui Little League All-Stars defeated Seoul, South Korea, 5–1, and came home with the title. At the airport, the boys’ fans greeted them with signs, lei, and sirens blasted by the Aircraft Rescue & Fire Fighting Crew. The champs later signed autographs at Queen Ka‘ahumanu Shopping Center.

DIVERSIFIED AG Maui farmers have been busy planting all kinds of specialty crops: cacao, coffee, dragon fruit, dryland kalo (taro), moringa and olives. With all the new agricultural land opening up, it’s possible Maui could tip its scales towards food self-sufficiency. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

If Santa can travel the world to give the perfect gift, why, we asked ourselves, can’t we? Our search did yield a treasure or two from afar . . . but we also found that, when it comes to having great presents, there’s no place like home— especially when home is in the Islands. COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN

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1 SNAPPY DRESSERS What tiny tot wouldn’t look all aglow, wrapped in these adorable Maui Boy and Humpback onesies? Sizes 3–24 months, $20 each, by and at Maui Thing, 7 N. Market St., Wailuku; 249-0215; MauiThing.com. 2 VIRGIN MAUI Maui Olive Company’s extra-virgin olive oil

has a robust and complex taste with spicy, peppery and fruity notes—qualities derived from its early hand harvest, prompt milling, and the ideal growing conditions of Kula’s Mediterranean-like microclimate. $36/250ml (shown), $15/100ml, $12/60ml. Find it at the Upcountry Farmers Market, 55 Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani, Saturdays 7–11 a.m.; or order online at MauiOlive.com. 3 RIP IT UP The Maui Mercer shreds recycled fabric and transforms it into these one-of-a-kind pom-pom garlands. Use them to decorate a wall, drape a tree, tie a present . . . the possibilities are bound only by your imagination. Eighteen 2” pom-poms on 16’ of hand-twisted rope, $50 each at Pearl Butik, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8899; and TheMauiMercer.com. 4 TRAVEL NUT Maiden Hawai‘i Naturals’ 100% pure Macadamia Nut Beauty Oil has a rollerball applicator for targeting small areas that need moisturizing. The 10ml applicator is perfect for travel and easy to keep in your purse or pocket. $7 at The Gallery Shop at Kaluanui, Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-6560; and MaidenHawaiiNaturals.com. 5 GIVE HIM SOME LATITUDE. This chic Kaliko Aloha Wallet charts Hawai‘i’s coordinates, embossed in gold metallic ink on black faux leather. Gold hardware, six inner credit-card slots and money

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1,2,4,5,6,10: CONN BRATTAIN. ALL OTHERS BY THEIR RESPECTIVE COMPANIES

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pouch, $31, by and at KameraJewelry.com. 6 HEDGE YOUR BETS Add Maui Shrub Farm’s preserved vinegar—infused with fresh fruit and herbs—to cocktails, still or sparkling water. Try all 6 flavors: liliko‘i passion, Kula strawberry lemon, pineapple sage, hibiscus orange, guava rose and ginger Hawaiian chili (shown). $27, available at MauiShrubFarm.com; and Saturdays, 7-11 a.m., at the Upcountry Farmers Market, 55 Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani. 7 TURN OVER A NEW LEAF In Garden Time, Pulitzer Prize-winning poet William S. Merwin leads readers through a landscape crafted by the senses, a gentle exploration through poetry of the nature of our existence. $24 at Barnes & Noble, 325 Keawe St., Lahaina, 662-1300. 10% of proceeds on books purchased December 1-14 support The Merwin Conservancy. 8 WRIST WATCH These eye-catching bracelets by Treehouse Designs come in black or brown leather stamped with Hawaiian words: mauka (towards the land), makai (seaward), aloha, mahalo (thank you), and a compass version with NSEW. Customization available. $28–$36 at TreehouseMade.com. 9 FLOWER SACK Happy Wahine’s lightweight fauxleather handbag has an inside zipper pouch, shoulder strap, and zippers on both sides so it can grow. $89 at Maui Tropical Plantation Country Store, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333. 10 BODY CHEMISTRY The structures of molecules inspired this Island Chain design—a chemical bonding that symbolizes the archipelago. $30 by and at Native Intelligence, 1980 Main St., Wailuku; 249-2421; and online at Native-Intel.com. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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11 PLATE TECTONICS Ceramist Sharon Ransford’s decorative Maui plates come in a variety of colors and patterns. Approx. 11.5”x6”. $40 each at Maui Hands, 1169 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-2008; and 84 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9245; MauiHands.com. 12 WATER LOG Collette Leimomi Akana’s Hānau ka Ua is the most complete collection to date of Hawaiian rain names (there are hundreds) and their lore. Illustrated on vellum by Sig Zane. 328 pp., 6”x9”, $30 at Native Intelligence,1980 Main St., Wailuku; 249-2421. 13 SEA NOTES Deborah Lumpkins reproduces these colorful notecards in 4 different sets (Peahi shown) from her original gyotaku (fish rubbings). Set of 4 assorted, blank cards and envelopes, $16 at Maui Crafts Guild, 120 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia; 579-9697; and DebraLumpkins.com. 14 ROAD LESS TRAVELED In 2013, photographer Daniel Sullivan set out to find what remained of an ancient roadway that once circled the island. The Maui Coast: Legacy of the King’s Highway chronicles his quest, and his hope to inspire others to appreciate the beauty of Maui and preserve its history. 204 pgs. $86 standard edition at Indigo Paia, 149 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia; 5799199; and DanielSullivan.Photoshelter.com. 15 HEARD THE LATEST TWEET? Wild Republic worked with Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project to create these plush toys with song recordings of each endangered bird (give them a squeeze): the kiwikiu (Maui parrotbill), ‘i’iwi (scarlet honeycreeper) and ‘ākohekohe (crested honeycreeper). $15 each at Native Intelligence, 1980 Main St., Wailuku; 249-2421; and online at MauiForestBirds.org. 56

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

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Maui Divers Jewelry

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Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

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20 16 SEMIPRECIOUS TONES These crayon gems from Todd Oldham’s Kid Made Modern collection are as fun to draw with as they are displayed in a beautiful wooden bowl as art objects. Box of 12, $6 at Target, 100 Ho‘okele St., Kahului; 359-2829; Target.com. 17 HOLDING TRADITION All

Across Africa employs Rwandan craftswomen who follow timeless tradition to weave carefully dyed sisal fibers and sweetgrass into stunning, one-ofa-kind bowls rich in cultural meaning and purpose. $30–$85 at HUE Interior Design & Home Furnishings, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului, 873-6910. 18 TEA, BAG Barking Deer Farm’s revitalizing Hibiscus Cooler Tea blend is made on the island of Moloka‘i with 100% organic herbs that will awaken your senses and soothe your soul. 15 tea bags come in a Hawaiian-print reusable satchel. $12 at Maui Tropical Plantation Country Store, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū; 270-0333. 19 STRING THEORY Musician and lei maker Kuana Torres Kahele teaches the art of crafting fresh Hawaiian lei. On his DVDs Make Lei and Make Lei 2, he explains and demonstrates in detail techniques that can translate easily to wherever you are. $18 each at Ben Franklin in the Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului; 877-3337; and Shop.MountainAppleCompany. com. 20 SLEEP PATTERN Catch some Z’s among the waves of this brilliant blue, ripple-print linen pillow complete with down insert. 22”x22”, $195 by and at Pacific Home, 221 Lalo St., Kahului; 727-8300; Pacific-Home.com.

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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MAUI GOLD PINEAPPLE COMPANY Why settle for five golden rings when you can give a whole, naturally sweet, island-grown pineapple? Succulent Maui Gold pineapples bring aloha to any doorstep in the Islands or the Lower 48. Available in single($30), two- ($45), and six-pack ($85) gift boxes, shipping included. Mention Maui Gold’s ad on page 94 and get 10 percent off. 808-877-3805 | PineappleMaui.com

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CICI MAUI DESIGNS JEWELRY & BEACHWEAR BOUTIQUE Cici’s JCK award-winning, sterling silver Rip Curl Wave Cuff depicts three ocean waves, representing “strength and everlasting” and “yesterday, today and tomorrow.” For a lasting memory of your Hawai‘i vacation, visit Cici in her boutique and view her extensive collection of islandinspired jewelry and unique crocheted beach dresses. 888 Front Street, Lahaina | 808-280-4627 | CiciMauiDesigns@gmail.com Cici’s jewelry is also available at Ki‘i Gallery in Wailea, and Lahaina Scrimshaw on Front Street in Lahaina. MAUIGROWN COFFEE Maui Christmas, Jingle Beans and Yule Fuel! Grown on Kā‘anapali Estate and roasted in small batches in Lahaina, our 100 percent Maui Holiday Coffees are the perfect gift for friends and loved ones. Visit the MauiGrown Coffee Company Store and sample MauiGrown Coffee, or order online. 277 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina | 808-6612728 MauiGrownCoffee.com

MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI MAGAZINE Better to give than to receive? With a gift subscription to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, you can do both. Take advantage of our holiday gift offer and start or renew your subscription for one year (six issues) and send a free subscription to a friend. 90 Central Avenue, Wailuku | 844-808MAUI (6284) | MauiMagazine.net | Code: GIVE MAUI16

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DESIGNS BY SHIRLEY Shirley Lecomte offers custom designs to create personalized family heirlooms. Her signature “808” piece is available in 14K gold with diamonds, 14K gold, and sterling silver. Her love for her West Maui home inspired her “96761 Zip Code” pendant collection. Custom work available. Designs by Shirley can be found at Sargent’s Fine Jewelry. 802 Front Street, Lahaina. | 808-276-3811 | DesignsBy Shirley@gmail.com

THE MAUI CLOSET COMPANY Clutter and chaos disappear with these beautifully crafted, space-saving creations. Specializing in locally manufactured wall beds, closets, shoji and mirrored doors, The Maui Closet Company offers free design consultation. Call to view a wide range of woods, finishes and stylish solutions. 310 Hukilike Street, Unit M, Kahului | 808-871-7996 MauiCloset.com

MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS Keeping Maui caffeinated since 1981. We roast Maui coffee, Hawaiian coffee, and our blends daily in our eco-friendly, small-batch roaster to ensure the freshness of every roast. Taste the flavors of Hawai‘i in every freshly brewed cup. 444 Hāna Highway, Kahului | 808-877-2877 | MauiCoffeeRoasters.com

MARMAC KITCHEN STORE Beautiful and useful! Give the cook in your life this lovely mortar and pestle made of sustainable olive wood ($39.79). Handcrafted by a century-old woodworking company, each is a piece of art with rich, distinctive grains and subtle nuances. Or add it to your own kitchen and cook up a little magic! 334 Alamaha Street, Kahului | 808-877-3931

LAHAINA ARTS SOCIETY Discover some of Maui’s most talented fine artists at the Lahaina Arts Society’s Banyan Tree and Old Jail galleries inside the historic Old Lahaina Courthouse. Check out local paintings, ceramics, photography, glass art, jewelry, and more! 648 Wharf Street, #103, Lahaina | 808-661-0111 | LahainaArts.com

LUMIÈRE DANSEUR BY C-EST MOI Treat yourself or someone you love to the exotic beauty of orchids that can be enjoyed every day. This is just one of the many images created by Semoia Lin in the style of Lumière Danseur (Light Dancer). Integrating high-tech photography with multiple layers of computer programming, Semoia paints her images with rich color and texture reminiscent of the Old Masters. The result is extraordinary. 808-419-6793 | C-est-Moi.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016

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« AT HOME »

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

The lilting tweets and whistles of a hwamei,

The leaky upstairs deck was sealed with roofing materials, then tiled to provide a place to relax and take in the view. Unless, of course, you would rather stay in bed and enjoy the scenery through a wall of windows.

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or melodious laughing thrush, greet us at Maliko Retreat, a cottage that sits on a ridge above Māliko Gulch in Ha‘ikū, with ocean views on one side, the serene slopes of Haleakalā on the other. Owners Sydney and Maurice Smith drew on the rich history of these surroundings to create a charming and whimsical renovation. The hwamei’s musical welcome is itself a reminder of the past, Sydney says. She thinks the thrush, a popular cage bird in China, was introduced here by Chinese workers who helped build the Hāmākua Ditch just down the gulch. That great undertaking of 1876 allowed Maui’s pioneer sugar planters to channel East Maui water to fields in dry Central Maui. The road to the Smiths’ main house, across the gulch from the cottage, follows the route of a temporary railroad set up to take the workers and enormous water pipes and other materials to the construction site. Sydney and husband Maurice have spent thirty years protecting the artifacts they’ve found on their twenty verdant

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Above: Sydney’s father made this redwood door to fit the loft’s oddly sized frame. Sydney added the pineapple, cutting it out of a piece of carved wood she salvaged from a dumpster in Oregon. The duvet came from Urban Outfitters, the jute bedskirts from Ballard Designs. (A coffee grower, Sydney likes their association with burlap coffee bags.) Top right and bottom left: Set on a ridge surrounded by jungle, the cottage offers both privacy and views from every angle— including the bathroom’s claw-footed tub. A local builder salvaged the lighting fixture over the tub from a hotel in Salt Lake City. “He hauled it around for years, and then gave it to me,” Sydney says. Bottom right: A Dutch door, likely added half a century ago, creates a charming entrance to the cottage. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

« AT HOME »

acres, and have incorporated many of those relics in the cottage’s restoration. The Retreat is one of two vacation rental cottages on the property. If Sydney has her way, she’ll add a couple more to endow a trust to support this land as a park when she and Maurice finally retire from their lifetime labor of love. It’s a labor that would overwhelm a lot of people, but it’s only a part of what the Smiths do. They’re farmers, raising Maliko Estate Coffee, and Maurice runs a screen-printing business. Sydney does graphic and interior design, and is president of the Maui Coffee Association and a member of the county’s Agricultural Working Group. Maliko Retreat was a dilapidated shack when they acquired the property. “You could stick your fingers through the walls,” Sydney says. There was no electricity, no closet, no bathroom sink, and no toilet—only an outhouse. The bathtub, on a deck outside, relied on fifty feet of black hose as a water heater; the primitive kitchen had a gas ring and a sink. The building itself was set on an eroded slope so steep, it took the Smiths three years of hauling boulders and soil to create a terrace that allows one to walk all the way around the house. The stream in the gulch was clogged with decades’ worth of garbage people had dumped from the bridge above. Sydney was undeterred. “I bought the property to clean it up,” she says. “I just love it.” And the garbage-strewn shack proved worth Top: Creative touches live happily amid the living room’s vintage and reclaimed furnishings—from diagonal four-by-fours that do double duty as bookshelves, to river-smoothed stones set into the wall behind the wood-burning stove. Middle: From the cottage, the view takes in West Maui’s mountain and Kahului Harbor, with nary a building in sight. “Only twelve minutes to Costco,” says Sydney, “and all you see is nature.” Left: Sydney takes a well-deserved break in a hammock strung between palm trees outside the front door.

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« AT HOME »

Clockwise from left: Hawaiiana collectibles came from garage sales and junk stores on the mainland. An eclectic array of cabinets manages to blend nicely in a kitchen designed with recycled items. The ceiling light was in a home built in 1932 on the Oregon Coast; when the Smiths renovated that house—knocking out a wall—they saved the fixture and brought it to Maui. An old baby crib provided railings for stairs to the bedroom loft and the balcony overlooking the living room. A rescued monkeypod tree headed for the landfill became a banister.

saving. Sydney’s father undertook a renovation and discovered it was old-growth redwood and cedar, held together with antique joinery pegs instead of nails. The Smiths put in a cesspool, underground water pipes and power, and were prescient enough, in the 1990s, to install fiber optic cable. They hired Maui architect Tom Cannon to do a historical assessment so they could persuade the County to permit the house to keep its low ceilings. Sydney herself dove in a few years ago and did another painstaking renovation that highlights the building’s charms.

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Now the cottage is a jewel worthy of its setting, its wide windows and decks offering views of jungle, ocean and mountain, with a seasonal waterfall a few hundred feet away. The site is so scenic that missionary-artist Edward Bailey painted it in the mid-1800s, showing Hawaiian hale (traditional grass houses) on the ridge where Maliko Retreat now stands. Today the painting hangs in his former home, the Bailey House Museum in Wailuku. Sydney is full of stories about the myriad finds the Smiths have made on their property, leftovers from those days and even

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« AT HOME »

earlier. And salvage is prominent in the cottage’s restoration and décor, from recycled kitchen counters that Sydney carefully pieced together, to a leaded-glass door with a sugarcane design, rescued from an old plantation house destined for demolition. Turned posts from the sides of an old baby crib became a railing on the stairs to the loft. The banister on that railing is made from monkeypod trees that Maurice saved from bulldozers when McGerrow Camp in Pu‘unēnē was shut down after the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company closed its plantation villages. Maurice bought a sawmill and put the wood to use. Much of what’s now in the kitchen was originally headed for the dump. Assorted sample cabinets from a showroom that was closing somehow work together even though they don’t match. The chopping block was part of the bar at the old Blue Max nightclub in Lahaina. Cupboards and drawers open with green glass handles made from melted-down Coke bottles. Outside on the deck, rectangular white tiles line a wall. Some of the tiles had broken, but no problem; Sydney edged them with river stones that seem to flow into the breaks, and found matching commercial stone tiles to create an elegant wall treatment. A birdcage from Sydney’s collection became part of a light fixture; she and Maurice found the little lamps in the bathroom in the dirt under the house. The Smiths didn’t replace everything—

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Featuring original artwork by Robert Suzuki. For viewing, visit HUE's showroom. Contact Robert at 808-268-0630 or nobuoyo@aol.com.

210 Alamaha Street, Kahului | 808-873-6910 | mauihue.com

Top: A leaded-glass door from an old plantation house adds an ornate touch to the downstairs bedroom. The leaded-glass window above the bed and a Venetian mirror behind the door were Craigslist finds. Home Depot provided the chandelier, Greenland Home the Bella Ruffle quilt and shams. Note the hanging lamp in the corner—Sydney fashioned it from an old birdcage. Above: Recycled redwood scraps take on a second life as deck railing. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

« AT HOME »

What cook wouldn’t love to prepare a meal in a kitchen overlooking a rainforest—a view enjoyed through the cottage’s original, slightly wavy window glass? Cabinets that don’t quite match, and Corian countertops, salvaged and painstakingly pieced together, add charm to this quirky kitchen. Easy-toclean vinyl grasscloth, purchased at Lowe’s, covers the ceiling between the beams.

the wavy glass in the kitchen windows is original, as is the claw-footed bathtub, now enclosed to protect bathers from the wind but still allowing a view of Haleakalā. The deck is original but needed railings and reinforcement to make it safe, and to keep rain from leaking into downstairs rooms. Now, glass railings allow guests staying at the Retreat to see the ocean without getting out of bed. Elsewhere, the railing is a decorative lattice Sydney made with posts from her own house; the ends had rotted, but she couldn’t stand to let the still-solid sections go to waste. The lattice has become a signature style she offers her interiordesign clients. New items in the décor include pineapple-shaped moldings made from napkin holders found in an ABC Store; and pineapple-shaped corbels, cut from scrap, topping posts on the dining room lānai. (The theme honors the pineapple fields that once surrounded the area.) The old redwood walls, once blackened by the smoke of candles and kerosene, now are light and bright. “I sanded every surface” before painting, Sydney says, even smoothing the rough-sawn wood on the ceilings.

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Here and there, she decorated a post by painting a delicate golden maile lei. Sydney’s innovative eye and affinity for elbow grease have brought the past into the present at Maliko Retreat, through storied details and collectibles that highlight its graceful design. It’s a great place to relax, to watch for birds, and perhaps to hear the song of a hwamei whose ancestors found a home in this flourishing forest.

DESTINATION MAUI, INC Lic. #RB-14350 www.DestinationMaui.net 808-244-9021 dmi@destinationmaui.net 220 Imi Kala St., Ste. 104, Wailuku

Finding a good rental in Maui can be tough. It can also be difficult to find and keep quality tenants. Our team has experience overcoming these challenges.

WEB EXCLUSIVE: Missionary Edward Bailey’s painting of Māliko hangs in the Bailey House Museum in Wailuku. Find a photo of the painting at MauiMagazine.net/maliko-retreat.

RESOURCES Architects Maui Thomas Cannon, principal architect 808-572-4644 | MauiBoy.com/archmaui Fonseca Roofing Inc. (upper lānai waterproof-system installation) 808-281-0092 Habitat for Humanity Restore 970 Lower Main St., Wailuku 808-986-8050 | Habitat-Maui.org Maui Specialty Lighting Mark Speilberg, lighting designer 808-444-0921 | MauiSpecialtyLighting.com

DESTINATION MAUI REALTY, LLC www.DestinationMauiRealty.com 808-244-9021 dmi@destinationmaui.net 220 Imi Kala St., Ste. 104, Wailuku

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HONOLUA RIDGE PhaseII,II,Lot Lot#22: #22: 242 Keoawa Street, Kapalua Honolua Ridge - Phase 242 Keoawa Street, Kapalua: 6.259 views.From Fromyour yourhouse housesite siteyou’ll you’ll enjoy 6.259acres acresofofbreathtaking breathtaking views. enjoy endless ofnearby nearbyislands, islands, tropical sunsets anddeep the blue deepwablue endless views views of tropical sunsets and the waters Pailolo Channel. Theissite is situated of ters of of thethe Pailolo Channel. The site situated near thenear top ofthe thetop develthe development, you easy access to pristine hikes, opment, giving you giving easy access to pristine mountain hikes,mountain the beaches the beaches ofenough Kapalua and land toprivate createtropical your own private of Kapalua and land to enough create your own paradise. tropical paradise. Offered at at $1,195,000 $1,595,000 Offered

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THE VOICE OF LUXURY REAL ESTATE

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Twenty years ago, I reached for the courage to approach the man who walked into the café, where I stood behind a deli counter filled with biscotti, cheesecakes and pasta salads. An elegant fellow over six feet tall, he wore brown leather boots over fitted slacks, a tweed jacket and a denim-blue scarf. Under his fedora, his near-shoulder-length hair framed a face I’d seen on album covers. Fumbling for words, I said in my most unpaparazzi-like voice, “Are you somebody?” His kind blue eyes looked down at me. “No,” he answered with a gentle smile, then turned and walked out the door with his coffee. It was okay, because I knew. Today I’m in Mick Fleetwood’s home in Kula, awed by the prospect of rubbing shoulders with Maui’s own music icon. A founding member of the legendary rock band Fleetwood Mac, Mick is also a Lahaina restaurateur, and has graciously offered to host Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s 2016 holiday test kitchen. We’re joined by Clockwise from top: Mick and Chelsea staff from Fleetwood’s on Front St.—Chef Eric Mor- share a laugh while prepping rissette, general manager Eric Waddell, and wine ingredients for the bouillabaisse. director/assistant general manager Ashley Leal—as Fleetwood’s private-label wines pair with tonight’s dinner; they’re served well as Mick’s longtime sweetheart, Chelsea Hill, and at his restaurant, too. Spinach tossed with bacon-sherry vinaigrette, blue several of my colleagues from the magazine. Chef Eric announces the menu in his brisk East cheese, Marcona almonds and prosciutto? Salad never tasted Coast accent. “We’re going to start our prep with rack so delicious. Chef Eric portions new of lamb, then a polenta appetizer topped with sun- potatoes for the bouillabaisse.

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THIS PHOTO: BECKY SPEERE

It's not a rumour—Mick Fleetwood and Chelsea Hill make the cookin' fun.

Dining

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

RECEPTION Mick Fleetwood Chenin Blanc Santa Barbara County, California 2014 Pistachio-crusted Rack of Lamb Mascarpone Polenta with Sun-dried Tomato Pesto

SALAD Mick Fleetwood Red Ransom Santa Barbara County, California 2013 Spinach with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette

STARTER Mick Fleetwood Chardonnay Santa Barbara County, California 2013 Bouillabaisse

ENTREE Mick Fleetwood Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Barbara County, California 2014 Roasted Beef Tenderloin with Foie Gras

DESSERT Mick Fleetwood Moscato Santa Barbara County, California 2014 Cranberry Cake

Pistachio-crusted Rack of Lamb Servings: 8 | Prep Time: 1 hour Top to bottom, left to right: Barbara trims fat from the lamb, then seasons with freshly milled peppercorns and salt. Ashley, Diane, Shelby and Mike look on as Eric discusses the importance of oil temperature when searing meat. Dijon mustard adds tang and texture, while adhering the pistachio crumbs to the lamb. Let the meat stand ten to fifteen minutes after roasting, so juices redistribute through the muscle.

dried tomato pesto, then move on to beef tenderloin with foie gras. I also have a simple spinach-bacon salad, and for dessert we’ve prepared a cranberry cake at the restaurant that is the perfect end to the feast.” Barbara Geary, a member of MNKO’s sales team, steps up to help and Eric demonstrates how to remove the fat cap from the lamb rack, talking her through the process step by step. “You need to wear gloves to keep the bacteria and heat on your skin from degrading the meat,” he says. “You want to remove the fat, but you also want to leave some for flavor.” As he grinds fresh peppercorns onto

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4 lamb racks, frenched 2 tsp. herbes de Provence salt & pepper to taste 3 Tbsp. olive oil METHOD Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil, and place a wire rack on the sheet. Generously season lamb with salt, pepper and herbs. In a large skillet, heat olive oil on high heat, then sear lamb and brown all sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer lamb to metal rack on baking sheet. CRUST 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1½ c. chopped pistachio nuts 3 Tbsp. panko 2 Tbsp. melted butter salt & pepper to taste 3 Tbsp. Dijon mustard METHOD Mix pistachios, extra virgin olive oil, panko, butter, salt and pepper. Spread mustard on the fatty side of each rack of lamb. Pat pistachio mixture onto the mustard-covered racks of lamb and bake in oven until crust is golden and internal temperature is at desired doneness, about 15 minutes for medium rare. Transfer to a plate and let rest for ten minutes before slicing.

the meat, he explains that he uses cracked black pepper because the bite comes through with every taste, which is not the case with finely ground pepper. “Also, one of my favorite herb blends is herbes de Provence, which I use on all my French-Mediterranean dishes.” Eric sears the lamb in olive oil till it’s golden brown, paints it with grainy mustard, then has Barbara press a pistachio-and-herb crust onto the meat. “Don’t worry if every inch isn’t covered,” he says. Next comes placing it on a metal rack over a sheet pan. “The metal rack allows [hot] air to contact the entire surface, top and bottom,” he says. “If you want to prepare it ahead of time, you can

Dining Bouillabaisse is a rich and satisfying way to stave off the chill of an Upcountry night.

For years, his Kula cottage was mostly where Mick hung out with musician friends. With Chelsea here, the house is becoming a home. Rack of lamb gets a warm reception, arriving dressed in a pistachio-panko crust.

The multitasking chef: Morrissette explains the science behind absorption and consistency—all while stirring the polenta to perfection.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

Dining

Mascarpone Polenta with Sun-dried Tomato Pesto Servings: 10–15 as an appetizer, 6 as an entrée Prep Time: 20 minutes, plus 30 minutes cooling time

Shelby slowly adds cornmeal to the stock under Eric’s watchful eye. The polenta thickens as he stirs . . .

and the fine cornmeal readily absorbs the heavy cream.

POLENTA 2 c. fine cornmeal* 2 c. chicken stock (or good-quality vegetable stock) 1½ tsp. garlic cloves, minced 2 c. heavy cream (or half-and-half or whole milk) salt & pepper to taste ¼ c. mascarpone ½ tsp. fresh rosemary, chopped Italian parsley to garnish * “I prefer fine cornmeal over larger polenta grains; it absorbs the stock and cream quicker, and cooks to a creamy finish.”—Chef Eric Morrissette METHOD Bring stock and garlic to a simmer. Slowly stir in cornmeal. Add 1 cup of cream, stirring till absorbed; then add second cup of cream, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in mascarpone and rosemary. Pour into a 9”x14” buttered dish, spreading to a thickness of ¾”– 1” and quickly smooth top before it sets. Cool in fridge till firm. Cut into 1” squares and transfer to platter. Top with a dollop of sun-dried tomato pesto and parsley to garnish. Serve at room temperature.

Cool the polenta by spreading it on a buttered dish or (as shown here) a large baking sheet lined with parchment.

SUN-DRIED TOMATO PESTO Yield: 2 cups (scant) | Prep Time: 30 minutes 1 c. sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil, drained 3 cloves garlic 1 c. basil leaves ¼ c. pine nuts ¹⁄ ³ c. Parmesan cheese pinch of red pepper flakes (or more to taste) ¹⁄ ³ c. extra virgin olive oil salt & pepper to taste METHOD Place first six ingredients into food processor and blend. Stop the processor and scrape the mixture down. Turn processor on and drizzle olive oil in slowly to incorporate. Stop and scrape down the sides again. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pulse till blended. Refrigerate.

An easy trick for uniform thickness: Place a second baking sheet on top of the polenta and apply even pressure.

Eric Waddell, GM of Fleetwood’s on Front St., cuts the cooled and compressed polenta into bite-sized squares.

MauiMagazine.net

The perfect host, passing a perfectly scrumptious appetizer.

hold it in the fridge. Bring the lamb to room temperature thirty minutes before service, then bake it at 400 degrees to the desired internal temperature. Use a meat-temperature gauge to take the guesswork out of rare, medium rare, and well done.” As MNKO graphic designer Shelby Lynch peels and separates cloves of garlic for the polenta appetizer, I ask Mick whether he enjoys cooking. “Breakfast was always my favorite meal to prepare,” he says. “I used to cook breakfast for [my] children when [they were] younger, but now I hardly cook.” Then he adds, beaming, “Chelsea is a great cook!” Mick’s lady modestly demurs. “I cook, but there’s lots of room for improvement,” she says. “I burn things and forget ingredients.” Given the fact that Chelsea is not only an Italianlanguage instructor, but also the organizer and director of the nonprofit philanthropy 100 Women Who Care Maui, we’d say she’s allowed a few kitchen faux pas. Under Eric’s watchful eye, Shelby focuses in on her paring knife, slicing each garlic clove like a surgeon, then mincing them. When I ask the chef whether he has any tips, he says, “Yes! No cutting fingers!” Mick quips, “Yes, it’s especially bad for musicians!” Laughter fills the kitchen.

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Founder/CEO Aaron Placourakis was raised around great food. And like all Greeks, he was instilled with the belief that “family” isn’t limited to close relatives, but includes all who are gathered around the table. It’s an approach that’s perfected by his team, who greet you at the door as a friend. We invite you to join us. Be a part of the family. Create unforgettable memories in the most spectacular settings on earth. And rediscover the joy of good living.

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Dining

Bouillabaisse Servings: 8 | Prep Time: 1½ hours | Cooking Time: 2 hours ROUILLE 4 baguette slices, diced 3 Tbsp. water 2 garlic cloves

½ tsp. cayenne pepper ½ tsp. kosher salt 3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

METHOD In a mini food processor, sprinkle the diced bread with the water and let stand for 5 minutes. Add the garlic, cayenne, and salt, and process until coarsely chopped. With the processor running, slowly pour the olive oil through the feed tube and process until smooth and pastelike. Refrigerate. CROUTON 8 slices of baguette, ½” thick, cut on a bias

1 whole garlic clove, peeled 3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

METHOD Preheat broiler. Arrange baguette slices on a baking sheet and broil 6” from the heat until the slices are golden brown around the edges. Rub each slice with the garlic clove and drizzle lightly with olive oil. BOUILLABAISSE 3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 2 leeks, white and light-green sections only, thinly sliced 1 onion, medium diced 1 fennel bulb, cored and medium diced (reserve frond tops) 3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 2 tomatoes, medium diced 2 bay leaves

pinch of saffron 5 c. lobster stock* 1½ lb. fingerling potatoes, cut into ½” coins ¼ tsp. cayenne 2 doz. littleneck clams, scrubbed 1 lb. each monchong, mahimahi and skinless red snapper, cut into 1” pieces

* Whole Foods Market in the Maui Mall carries canned lobster stock. Or purchase a 2½-pound refrigerated tub of lobster base for stock at Maui Rimfire Imports, 781 Eha St., #A, in Wailuku.

From top: Mick, Chelsea, and Eric Waddell slice the aromatic vegetables for an intensely flavored stock. Eric Morrissette reduces the liquids to concentrate the flavors . . . purées . . . then presses the blended liquid through a sieve. The fish Diane cuts will be added later in the process to avoid overcooking.

As Eric combines the polenta ingredients in a large skillet, Ashley pours a selection from Mick Fleetwood Private Cellar wines, a light golden 2014 chenin blanc. Tasting notes from the restaurant’s website are spot on: “Aromas of bergamot and apricot and floral notes of narcissus are accentuated by a luscious, viscous weight and crisp acidity on the palate. . . . an elegant wine made in the classic Vouvray style.” The wine adds to our camaraderie, but I secretly worry about the ﬁngers. The bubbling polenta simmers in a chicken stock speckled with garlic, rosemary, and more cream than any dish deserves. Just as I wonder if anything could be more decadent, Eric stirs in an ice cream-

MauiMagazine.net

METHOD In a very large, deep skillet, heat the 3 Tbsp. olive oil. Add the leeks, onion, fennel, and chopped garlic, and cook over moderate heat until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook until they begin to break down, about 5 minutes. Add the bay leaves and saffron and bring to a boil. Add the lobster stock and bring to a simmer. Cook over low heat until the vegetables are very tender, about 20 minutes. Discard bay leaves, pour into blender and purée. Strain through a fine sieve set over a skillet, pushing on the solids to extract all the flavor. Add the potatoes and cayenne pepper to the broth and bring to a simmer. Cook over moderate heat until potatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the clams, cover and cook for 3 minutes. Add the monchong, cover and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the snapper and mahimahi, cover and simmer until all the clams have opened and the fish has cooked through, about 4 minutes. ASSEMBLY Place the toasted croutons on the bottom of a warmed shallow soup bowl. Ladle the seafood and broth over the croutons, and serve immediately, garnished with a dollop of rouille and a light sprinkle of chopped fennel fronds. Pass extra rouille in a bowl for garlic lovers.

sized scoop of mascarpone. As our eyes widen, he nonchalantly says, “This will be spread into a sheet pan, cooled and cut into appetizersized portions to go with our sun-dried tomato pesto.” Mmmmm. Eric has recruited Mick and Chelsea to prepare the bouillabaisse. As the musician assesses the chef’s bevy of knives, Eric says, “I had a knife that I used so much that, after all the sharpening, it whittled to nothing. Finally had to give it up.” Mick responds, “That reminds me of a cymbal I used till it cracked and looked like [Swiss] cheese. I’d cut away the shards of metal, then continue to use it. Finally, sadly, I had to get rid of it when there was nothing left of it. The tools of the trade become the things that are dear to you.”

A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

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Dining

Left to right: Jazz, rock and blues singer Gretchen Rhodes performs on occasion with Mick’s pickup band, Island Rumours. She’s joined at the table by her husband, Pio Marasco, a pro windsurfer and founder of Maui Fin Company. Mick takes an ‘ukulele break on his lānai. Guitarist Rick Vito played with Fleetwood Mac in the late 1980s; he flew in this morning for an upcoming tour with Mick—and some downtime today with friends Jen Solé Weller, Dominique Pandolfi and Chelsea.

Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette Servings: 8 | Prep Time: 20 minutes 3 strips thick-sliced bacon cut into ½”-wide pieces 2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 shallot, minced 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. thyme, chopped 2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar

2 small plums, sliced into thin wedges ½ lb. spinach, washed and spun dry salt & pepper to taste ¼ c Marcona almonds, coarsely chopped* 2 oz. crumbled blue cheese ¼ lb. prosciutto, thinly sliced

* Available at Whole Foods Market in the Maui Mall and Maui Rimfire Imports in Wailuku.

After the aromatic vegetables, saffron and lobster stock have simmered and concentrated, Eric purées the entirety in a Vitamix, then has Mick pour it into a fine chinois strainer, pressing the solids to squeeze out every drop of stock. Diane comments, “This is a huge process!” Chelsea laughs, “That’s why we eat at Fleetwood’s!” “It is a lot of work,” Eric admits, “but we do this because we don’t thicken any of our sauces with flour-based roux due to gluten sensitivity.” Watching as the chef adds the fish to the stock, John Giordani, MNKO’s art director, asks, “Can you overcook the fish?” Eric replies, “You can add the mahi, monchong, and snapper for a maximum half hour on low heat. But add the shellfish a few minutes before serving, because they will get tough.” Beef tenderloin, esteemed for its tenderness and flavor, rocks today’s menu, along with seared duck foie gras and duck-fat-basted new potatoes. Donning gloves, Eric separates the meat from the fat and the silver. An accomplished prep cook, Diane wields the sharp

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filet knife, sliding it beneath the silver skin. Minutes later, the beef is ready for a pan sear and oven roasting. Eric places thickly sliced applewood-smoked bacon, diced for the spinach salad, into a cold pan. “Why a cold pan?” Diane asks. He replies, “You want to render the fat slowly, because this will be the dressing for the salad. You don’t want it to caramelize too quickly and burn the sugars.” Twenty minutes later, the bacon vinaigrette is lightly dressing spinach leaves garnished with thin slices of prosciutto, Marcona almonds and creamy blue cheese crumbles. For a holiday twist and to balance out the richness of the dish, Eric adds sherry vinegar and fresh plum slices to the mix. Mike Haynes normally handles business development for the magazine, but right now he’s busy putting the finishing touches on the polenta appetizer: topping them with a pesto of Parmesan, garlic and sun-dried tomato. Ashley pours goblets of Private Cellar 2013 chardonnay and passes them around. With notes of bright

TOP CENTER: BARBARA GEARY

METHOD Place bacon in a cold skillet with olive oil and cook over low-medium heat to render fat, about 6 minutes, cooking until bacon is crisp and browned. Remove from heat and stir in shallots, mustard, sherry and thyme. Scrape the dressing into a large bowl and toss with plums and spinach, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Add the nuts and blue cheese and toss lightly. Portion salads, garnish with sliced prosciutto and serve.

LOCAL FLAVORS EXPRESSED THROUGH CULINARY INNOVATION Sharing food with the people you love is a big part of traditional Hawaiian culture, and our fresh restaurant Ka’ana Kitchen serves up some of Maui’s best dishes family style. So grab your favorite humans, and share farm-to-table cuisine expertly prepared to stimulate your sense of adventure. CALL US at +1 808 243 4750 to book your reservation.

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

Dining

Top photo: Gathered around our test-kitchen table are, from left, Rick Vito, dining editor Becky Speere, Fleetwood’s on Front St. general manager Eric Waddell, Mick Fleetwood (seated in front of the Maxwell Armfield painting featured on the cover of Fleetwood Mac’s 1969 album Then Play On), chef Eric Morrissette, Chelsea Hill, publisher Diane Woodburn, photographer Daniel Sullivan, and singer Gretchen Rhodes. Above: Foie gras adds an extra note of opulence to the entrée—beef tenderloin. Find the recipe for this and the cranberry cake at right on our website.

citrus, wet slate petrichor and sweet cream, the wine is a perfect foil to the rich polenta and garlicky tomato topping. Soon it’s time to enjoy our holiday feast. Bottles of Mick’s private-label merlot and cabernet flow freely during dinner. Recalling his days with Fleetwood Mac, Mick says, “[Rock music promoter] Bill Graham was a smart man. He would take care of our stomachs first, because he knew if we were happy and fed well, we’d want to perform for him again.” And the show does go on, in the kitchen and on stage at Fleetwood’s on Front St. Passionate about teamwork, Mick shares his thoughts about the similarities between the

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two: the preparation before a concert or a meal, and how each is like a circus act with finely cued players. His recollection resonates with all of us as we breathe in the delicious aromas. This is one of Mick’s favorite moments; I see it in his face, in his eyes, and in his smile. Good friends, good food and good music. WEB EXCLUSIVE Find Chef Eric’s other test-kitchen recipes at MauiMagazine.net/cranberry-cake and MauiMagazine.net/beeftenderloin (plus a video on how to remove silver from the meat).

a restaurant created by a man who loves to eat Serving Hawai‘i Since 1976

Best Award of Excellence Wine Spectator

Best Breakfast in Hawai‘i Zagat Survey

Restaurant of Distinction Honolulu Magazine Hale ‘Aina Award

Best Restaurant Honolulu Advertiser I‘lima Award

Best Italian Restaurant The Maui News “Best of Maui” Award

Best Mediterranean BEST Guidebook

‘Aipono Icon Award, Bob Longhi Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine

L A H A I N A / 8 8 8 F r o n t S t r e e t / 8 0 8 . 6 6 7. 2 2 8 8 WAILEA / The Shops at Wailea / 808.89 1.8883 HONOLULU / Ala Moana Center / 808.944.3733

WWW.LONGHIS.COM

Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

Dining » HIGHLIGHTS

HOLIDAY IN HAWAI‘I STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

Hawai‘i is a place populated by people from all over the world, and sharing cultural foods plays an important part in our celebrations. For me, it’s ‘ahi sashimi that evokes warm memories of my Japanese mother’s holiday table. For my husband, Chris, it’s his mother Florence’s biscochito—a traditional recipe that traveled over the Atlantic to Mexico with Spanish conquistadors, migrated north to New Mexico, then across the Pacific Ocean to Maui. When I asked friends, recently, about their favorite throwback indulgences, this is what they said:

cake about seven inches high.” But the banana pudding keeps circling into the conversation. Bev says, “I’d get a little bowl of the warm pudding from our cook, Lula Mae, just before it was placed into the refrigerator. It was divine . . . sweet and warm with Nilla Wafer cookies, banana and pudding . . . a classic preparation. As I got older, I’d write my boyfriend’s name on the top in whipped cream or meringue. So cool.”

Beverly Gannon, owner, Hāli‘imaile General Store

Colleen Brady, owner, Liliko‘i Lani Farm

“Banana pudding,” says Chef Bev. “My aunts would come over to our home in Dallas for the holidays, and since my mother was raised Baptist and my dad was Jewish, we celebrated both Passover and Christmas. We had the usual turkey and ham, but we also had mandelbrot, a biscotti-like cookie, and a dark-chocolate

“My Irish grandmother, Helen O’Shea, made oyster stew every holiday. Creamy with butter, it was extravagant—and a little strange, because we lived in the Midwest. My uncle Lawrence from Seattle sent a huge salmon for the holidays. We weren’t used to eating salmon, but soon it became a holiday staple that we loved and looked forward to. Then my kids and I moved to California and our food tradition turned Mexican. In Del Mar, we ate a rich chicken soup and tamales. After my daughters moved

Here’s another reason to celebrate: Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop just turned five years old—five years the little Olowalu eatery has been dishing up great comfort food and, of course, Aunt Leoda’s famous pies. Who’d guess that with four successful restaurants, co-owner Michael Moore had less than stellar food beginnings? Read on as Mauians share their holiday food memories.

[into their own homes], I would buy tamales from my favorite vendor and drive up to LA so we could eat them together on Christmas Day.”

“Lupini beans,” Leona says. “Remember the lupini that Mom used to cook? It would take her days to prepare it over a fire in the big tin pot!” Lavina says, “I still eat them during the holidays. I used to cook them, but it takes too much time, so I just buy them in jars and have them shipped in from New York by the case.” “I still make it the old way,” says Leona, “soak the beans for a day, cook them till tender. Then I rinse the beans twice a day for four days or more, until the bitterness goes away." Lavina adds, “Our [plantation] camp was mixed with all different nationalities. We would share our [Portuguese] food with the neighbors. We loved receiving sushi in exchange.”

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NINA KUNA

Leona Rocha Wilson, Lavina Rocha-Silva, Francis Rocha

Dining » HIGHLIGHTS

Perhaps this tradition was a catalyst for another cross-cultural exchange. A third Rocha sister, Pat Shishido, has a Japanese husband. Frances, their Japanese sister-in-law, is married to their brother, Leroy. Frances chimes in to say that when she was a teenager, her job was making sushi during the holidays. Frances smiles, recalling days gone by. “I couldn’t leave the house until all the maki sushi was rolled. I still make it to give away. It’s a tradition.”

Dean Louie, culinary arts instructor, Maui Culinary Academy Chef Dean says that when he was growing up in Sacramento, “The women in my family would gather for the ‘Chinese tamale’ party. All the ingredients for the joong were prepared ahead of time: marinated pork belly, peanuts, black-eyed peas, lup cheong sausage, salted duck egg yolk and sticky rice. Then everyone would fall into the assembly line and they would make dozens.” He says, “I remember the clattering that the big tin pots made while boiling [joong] on the stove. Aromas of earthy bamboo-leaf wrappers suffused the air. We’d go in and out of the kitchen, waiting.” Until the dish was ready, Dean says, the grownups “would quell our appetites with treats such as homemade candy wrapped in waxed paper: hard and chewy, made with puffed rice, candied ginger, peanuts and sesame seeds. Sometimes I’d have to run to the local Chinese grocery store to pick up more string to tie the joong. I really miss the synergy of the family gathering. Everyone lived nearby in those days, so all the kids got to play and the women cooked and we all enjoyed the fruits of their labor.”

Norma Barroga, retired Iao Intermediate School principal Lechon (whole, roasted pig) is a popular food memory for many Filipino immigrants and their Hawai‘i descendants. That’s true for Norma—her eyes gleam at the thought of the golden, crispy skin,

called chicharron. She says, “My family in Manila would rotisserie a pig during the holidays and baste it with sugarcane, vinegar, garlic and salt. The cavity was stuffed with aromatics like lemongrass, lemon, and bay leaf. The charcoal wood fire burned on low all day, starting at sunrise, but it was worth waiting for the crunchy skin and [succulent] meat.” Norma and her husband, Ernie Cronkite, don’t have the technical know-how to prepare this time-honored food, but when the urge hits, Max’s Restaurant at the Maui Mall is their go-to for lechon kawali, a modern, oven-roasted version of the lechon of Norma’s childhood.

Paris Nabavi, owner, Sangrita and Pizza Paradiso Growing up Persian and ending up on an island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean couldn’t dissuade Chef Paris from following tradition. Looking back on his childhood, he recalls one special day a year, when his entire family opened their home to the poor and homeless. The event took days to prepare. In his family compound, replete with rose gardens, fig and citrus trees, dozens of black iron cauldrons hung from tripods over wood fires to feed a thousand

Left: Lupini is a healthy Portuguese snack—one that takes days to prepare. Center: Chef Dean Louie lets us take a peek at joong ingredients before wrapping them for boiling. Right: Max’s lechon kawali comes with a carrot salad tossed in sugarcane vinegar to balance the rich dish.

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TOP LEFT: JOHN GIORDANI; TOP RIGHT: RODRIGO MORAES; BOTTOM, FROM LEFT: BECKY SPEERE; JOHN GIORDANI; BECKY SPEERE

Left: The only name Bev Gannon signs these days on her banana pudding? Her husband Joe’s. Right: For folks like Colleen Brady who crave a Christmas tamale, we recommend Sangrita Grill + Cantina.

presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH-Maui Culinary Academy. To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by: Pa‘ina Building UH–Maui College 310 Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului Wednesday, Dec 7 Reception 5:30 Dinner to follow

The theme for the dinner will be:

The Wines of France Discover the exciting world of French wines at the final ‘Aipono Wine Dinner for 2016. We will offer selections that showcase classic wines from Provence, Loire Valley, Burgundy, Bordeaux and the Rhone. Chef Tom Lelli and the students of Maui Culinary Academy are creating a feast in five courses beginning with light hors d’oeuvres passed and presented in the Garde Manger kitchen-lab. Then, get comfortable in Lei’s Class Act dining room, where you will enjoy an elegant dinner paired with exceptional wines.

SOLD OUT Call the Leis Family Class Act Restaurant, 984-3280, to get on the waiting list. $135 per person $25 from each dinner supports Maui Culinary Academy.

Dining » HIGHLIGHTS

Left: Find Chef Paris Nabavi’s luscious rice pudding at Pizza Paradiso. Right: Lani EckartDodd’s mother and son fill lū‘au (taro leaves) with fixings for laulau; Lani’s grandfather’s handmade laulau pot still takes the fire.

Lani Eckart-Dodd, owner, Ola Mau Farms A farmer and entrepreneur, Lani spent holidays and special occasions on her family’s estate in Hau‘ula, on O‘ahu’s North Shore. Lū‘au were a special time for everyone to laulima, work together. Lani says, “We would hukilau [fish with a seine] to make poke and grill fish over charcoal, pick limu [seaweed], and ‘opihi [limpets]. My dad taught me how to pound squid for lū‘au [a longsimmered dish of octopus, coconut milk and lū‘au (taro) leaf]. We’d complain about the itchy hands from the leaves . . . but if you wanted to eat, you helped out. I have the laulau steamer pot that my grandfather made, engraved with his name, Charles Gerlach, and the year he made it, 1944.” Lani

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adds, “Teaching my family, my sons, to mālama ‘āina [care for the land] is important to me. Preparing the food, eating the food is important, but what’s more important is connecting to and caring for our natural resources so we can pass [them] on to our children and our children’s children.”

Michael Moore, partner, Nā Hoaloha ‘Ekolu “I’m hapa haole [Japanese mother, Caucasian father] and I grew up in Oregon. This is bad, but what I remember is my Nebraska grandmother making a ‘glorified rice dessert’ with Uncle Ben’s rice, cherry Jell-O and whipped cream . . . it was horrifying.” As we laugh, I quip that maybe that dish was the reason for owning four successful Maui restaurants: Star Noodle, Aloha Mixed Plate, Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, and Old Lāhaina Lū‘au. Michael says, “For me, my memories are not about the holiday foods, but about the family, the extended ‘ohana [family] . . . about being together and sharing the moment. My favorite way to spend the holiday is on a trip to some exotic place, traveling with close friends . . . or simply playing a board game with them. The tradition is our precious time together. And living in Hawai‘i, away from my immediate family, this fills the family niche. It’s nontraditional, but I’m a nontraditional guy.” Be not a guilty eater. Be the eater you were meant to be this season.

TOP LEFT: RODRIGO MORAES; TOP RIGHT (2): LANI ECKART-DODD

(yes, a thousand!) mouths. The needy came bearing two empty pots that were filled by his family and house staff. Paris says, “One pot was filled with a rich lamb stew scented with Persian dried limes, tomatoes and garlic and a creamy yellow dal; and the other held a mound of matchstick fried potatoes. I make this stew and potatoes for my own family. I still cook a traditional fish dinner topped with sour orange and served with a side of green herb rice [dill, parsley and garlic chives] on New Year’s Day. I also make a dessert from my childhood that I sell at Pizza Paradiso: rice pudding with rosewater, sugar, saffron and slivered almonds sprinkled with cinnamon. It’s a special treat . . . every day.”

CASUAL, CREATIVE CUISINE WITH A TOUCH OF ALOHA

Hours: 8AM-9PM Happy Hour: Daily 3PM-6PM 808.669.9600 • PINEAPPLEGRILLMAUI.COM 200 Kapalua Drive • Lahaina, Maui, HI 96761

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

dining guide B = Breakfast BR = Brunch  L = Lunch  D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9pm  RR = Reservation recommended  $ = Average entreé under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40  $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2016

WEST SIDE Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ The Banyan Tree, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Savor a top-shelf mai tai, an appetizer of seared scallops on cauliflower purée, and braised beef short ribs with kabocha squash and ali‘i mushrooms. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$ Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-

921-4600. Grilled catch of the day comes with coconut Moloka‘i purple sweet potato and ginger-spiced broccolini glazed with yuzu brown butter. Or try the New York strip steak with bleu cheese fondue and baked mashed potato. The mac-nut brittle bar is to die for. Kidfriendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. Impressive steak program featuring filet mignon, American Wagyu rib-eye, and Australian lamb chops. Modern plantation-style bar offers light fare and full island-inspired restaurant menu. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. American. B, L. $ Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031. Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$ Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a fifties-diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

A fresh take on Old Mexico at a reasonable price

Dollies Pub & Café, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266. Hand-pressed crusts and stoneoven pizzas highlight a menu ranging from cheese steak and meatball subs to Costa Rican salad. L, D, N. $–$$ Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine ‘Aipono Award

Best Mexican Restaurant 2O15 GOLD Best Mexican Restaurant 2O16 Silver

Fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill.com 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6000

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The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. American/British pub food. B, L, D $$–$$$$ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$

The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939. Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with Basque country fare. French. D. $$$$ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. L. $ Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood. Steak, too! Japanese. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Try the braised short-rib pho atop rice noodles, corn and sweet peppers in rich ginger beef broth. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Dine in casual comfort with the Tiki Restaurant’s full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work sushi magic. Large selection of Japanese saké. Sushi. D. $$$ Koa’s Seaside Grill, 839 Front St., Lahaina, 6677737. The folks at Gazebo run this oceanfront eatery, and serve the same famous breakfast menu from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Plus pulled-pork sandwiches, prime rib and mahimahi. American. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Sushi/ Japanese. D, N, RR. $$$ Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 6613472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed scallops. Memorable tropical drinks, and happy hour from noon to 6 p.m. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$

lahaina fried soup Do Some Good When You Let Somebody Else Do the Cooking On Tuesday, November 15, “Dine out for Hospice” at a participating restaurant, and a portion of proceeds will benefit Hospice Maui, a nonprofit organization that provides compassionate end-of-life care for patients and support for their families. To find participating restaurants, look for listings with this purple background in the Dining Guide, or visit hospicemaui.org.

yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors like sesame crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake mushroom butter soy sauce; and Korean gochujang risotto with salt and peppa’ mahi. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Shave Ice. $ See South Shore listing. Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 6679394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthconscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more. Bakery/Café. B, L. $ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 6696400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create some of Maui’s most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. See South Side listing. Myths of Maui, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6619119. Enjoy live music, Polynesian dance, and an islandinspired buffet, complete with unearthing of the kalua pig from the imu. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Kick back with a tropical cocktail and pūpū (appetizer) Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

dining guide beside the pool; the paparazzi should be there shortly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thailemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Pailolo Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-

3200. Spicy, homemade Bloody Mary will rev your engines in the morning. Excellent burgers, tacos, and appetizers, plus ice-cold beer on tap. American. B, L, D. $

with Rising Star Chef Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$

Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$

Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 6623332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $

Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun

Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Island cuisine speaks Italian! Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with a sweet zeppole, tiramisu or budino. Closed Tues– Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fried rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and a great kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts. Reservations at Open Table.com. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$

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Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Souffle. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with queso fundido, chimichangas, enchilada and chile relleno plates, awardwinning rotisserie chicken, and happy hour with muchas buenas prices! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shark Pit, 170 Papalaua St., #104, Lahaina, 298-7776. This former food truck is now a brick-andmortar establishment with a stepped-up menu and expanded, creative cuisine. Pacific Rim. L, D. $-$$

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Award-Winning Oceanfront Dining

Molokai Sweet Potato Egg Frittata

Poke Nachos

Pineapple Tramisu

Private Dining

Gluten-free dining available Breakfast: 7am–2pm, Lunch: 9am–2pm, Dinner: 5:30pm–9pm Sea House Bar & Terrace: 8am–10pm, Happy Hour from 2pm–4:30pm Pupus from $6

808.669.1500 | www.seahousemaui.com 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Napili, Hawaii 96761 | www.napilikai.com | Hours and service periods subject to change.

Celebrating Over 50 Years at the Beach

Located at the beautiful Napili Kai Beach Resort | Celebrating Over 50 Years of Aloha

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NEW

SUNDAY BRUNCH & Bloody Mary Bar

7/6/16 9:14 AM

10AM TO 1PM WEEKLY Our new Sunday Brunch is a celebration of savory and sweet culinary delights accompanied by a “Build-your-own Bloody Mary Bar” with mixers and all the trimmings to make a most decadent libation.

ONE BAY DRIVE, LAHAINA (808) 662-6681 CANEANDCANOE.COM

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccanspiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, linecaught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Beginning to end, Taverna is a dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps fans coming back for more with commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $

TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE

Tiki Tiki Thai, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911/ 283-5202. Filet mignon in creamy Thai chili sauce, chicken panang curry, and many vegetarian selections. Coconut mango sticky rice pudding will plunk you into tropical heaven. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups like liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Additional West Maui locations: 819 Front St., Lahaina; and in the Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. Shave Ice. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$

After your long drive back from Hana, or on your way to the airport stop for a delicious meal at Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, Maui’s authentic Thai restaurant in Kahului or Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine II in Lahaina. Taste our house favorites: Thai style Filet Mignon in Creamy Thai Chili Sauce; delicious Panang Curry; or our famous Volcano Fish. Excellent vegetarian selections. You will love every bite. We cater weddings, reunions, private parties. LAHAINA Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine II Wharf Center, 658 Front St. (808) 661-1919 Open Daily 10am–10pm

KAHULUI Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine 395 Dairy Road (808) 893-0026 Open Daily 10am–10pm

2 hours free validated parking at Wharf Parking Lot

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Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D. RR. $$$$

SOUTH SHORE Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$

Kapalua just got delizioso!

2000 Village Rd. Kapalua TavernaMaui.com 808-667-CIAO (2426)

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top 100 places to eat in u.s. -yelp

100 best restaurants for foodies in america -open table

best maui restaurant 23 years in a row

-honolulu magazine readers poll

top 25 restaurants in u.s. -trip advisor

established 1990 in the historic lahaina inn dinner served nightly from 5:30pm www.facebook.com/lahainagrill instagram: @lahainagrill

127 lahainaluna road lahaina, maui, hawaii 96761

808.667.5117

www.lahainagrill.com

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“Treat your friends like family & your family like friends” —Big Manoli

Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, N. $ Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/ Italian. B, L, D. $$ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smokey bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$ Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf-n-turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$

Great pizza made with whole wheat or gluten-free crusts. Wide variety of appetizers, pastas, salads as well as daily Chef’s specials. Awesome burgers and sandwiches at lunchtime as well as homemade fries. We are passionate about using fresh, local, organic and sustainable products when available.

Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$ Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for 15 hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, one with blue cheese and apples. American. L, D. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop

Five Palms, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Watch the whales cruise by and enjoy lobster-tempura sushi and baked artichokes—half-price from 3 to 6 p.m. Breakfast is generously served until 2:30 p.m. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: 808.874.7499

Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675. Chef-owners Cody, Travis and Jared serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, glutenand dairy-free options. International. L, D. $ Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$

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Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8751234. Carpaccio of Japanese hamachi with celeryginger shaved ice, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, crispy mahimahi on forbidden rice . . . love from first bite to last. Pacific Rim. D. $$$$ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230. Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Local Boys Shave Ice, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779. How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with Plantation Era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Shave Ice. $ Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemonfeta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$ Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kalua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomi lomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$ The Market, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 8792433. Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie. Deli. L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8916476. Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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dining guide restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto offers signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions and locally sourced ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

Pizza Madness,1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches with chips and a pickle, some of the best pizza this side of the Pacific, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza L, D. $–$$ The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Produce gathered from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant. Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. D, N. $$-$$$$ Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, D. $-$$

Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8948880. See West Side listing.

Pā‘ia Fish Market South Side, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888. The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. See North Shore listing.

Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$

The Pint & Cork, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038. Mac and cheese with black truffles, deviled eggs Rockefeller, poke bowls and burgers. International. B (Sat & Sun), L, D, N. $-$$

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Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing.

Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Chef Cameron Lewark’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared

Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six different ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759983. Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$ Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose a rosemarygarlic-crusted steak on roasted garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, Maui Brewery and wine selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing. Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches,

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salads, and entrèes like braised chocolate chipotle lamb shank with maizena. American/Pacific Rim. B (Sat–Sun), L, D (Mon–Sat). $–$$ Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650. This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing. Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly describes this organic eatery’s pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. The taro veggie burgers and the poi açai bowl with fresh fruit are a delicious spin on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Vegan, Takeout Only. B, L. $ Fatt Chicks Burgers, Brews & Grill, 200 Halewaiu Rd., Waiehu, 242-6666. The 19th hole never tasted so good! Kim chee loco moco, bountiful salads and ‘ono burgers. Nuff said! Go eat! Pacific Regional. B, L. $ Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are $2. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Fresh Streatery, 344-7929. Chef Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $ The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333. Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Chef Jeff Scheer’s harmony of flavors will woo you back for more. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$

As Seen on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-in’s and Dives

Poi by the Pound, 385 Ho‘ohana St., Kahului, 2839381. Eat like a local. Hawaiian. L, D. $ A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 8930026. See West Side listing. Tin Roof, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753. Sheldon Simeon of Bravo TV’s Top Chef fame lets you build your own kau kau bowl with his savory offerings: sweet Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and kochujang sauce; seared furikaki-crusted fish with wasabi mayo and soy, and more. Pacific Rim. L. $–$$

Kahana - West Maui (808) 669-9010

Kihei - South Maui (808) 891-MISO (6476)

Kahana Manor, 4310 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy #111

Azeka Place Mauka, 1279 South Kihei Road #108

www.MisoPhat.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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EST. 1973

Serving Hawaii’s Restaurant & Fine Wine Community since 1979

TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311. Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves up plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, such as potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $

Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $-$$

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku.

Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$-$$$$

Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $ Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Soups and sandwiches served with fresh local greens, but a favorite with diners is the portobello mushroom and bacon burger . . . need we say more? American. B, L. $

UPCOUNTRY Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$ Farmacy Health Bar, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 868-0443. See Central listing.

Importers & Distributors of the World’s Finest Wines www.ChambersWines.com @ChamberswinesHI ChambersWinesHawaii @ChamberswinesHI

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La Isla Mexican Tamales, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 572-8258. Tamale lovers and local plate-lunch eaters unite! Great food, reasonable prices. Local/Mexican. L, D. $ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning. Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Market Fresh Bistro, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-4877. Chef Justin Pardo brings a passion for sustainable food to this courtyard gem. Try a breakfast frittata or pan-roasted crab cakes with corn succotash. Dinner Thursday through Saturday. Call for dates on special farm dinners. American. B, L, D. $–$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the

wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. Mexican. L, D. $$ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across from Maui Winery, find great deli fare, and hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kalua pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Dine indoors or out. Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Maka by Mana, 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5799125. Coconut-cream stacker with balsamic reduction, vegan burgers, tempeh Reuben . . . this is vegan and vegetarian fare so delicious, it could make a meat lover cross over. Vegetarian. L, D, RR. $ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$$$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for blacksesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$-$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030. The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $

HĀNA

Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732. Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ Hana Burger Food Truck at Hana Ranch, 5670 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 268-2820. Grass-finished beef burgers, fish sandwiches and salads. American/ Food Truck. L. $–$$ The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hāna-sourced produce and fish are the basis for an original menu by Chef Jay Johnson. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$ More lisitings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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LOOKING FOR MORE? VISIT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/MAUI-EVENTS

Top left: Kumu Kahua Theater: Uchina Aloha, Nov. 4–5 | Lower left: Modern Māori Quartet, Nov. 10 | Center: Ron White, Nov. 5 | Right: Nahko & Medicine for the People, Nov. 18

NOVEMBER DAILY

Native Plant Guided Tour Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Brochures for self-guided walking tours are included with the price of admission; audio tour wands are available to rent; and docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment only). 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

Ron White Castle Theater, MACC This Grammy-nominated funny guy is one of the topgrossing stand-up comedians on tour in America. Recommended for mature audiences. 8 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Made in Maui County Festival A&B Amphitheater, MACC This popular festival highlights some of Maui County’s finest products—from specialty foods and fresh produce to jewelry and collectibles. Activities include product demonstrations, a fashion show, prize drawings and more. Arrive early for the best selection. 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MadeinMauiCountyFestival.com

yoga gear, jewelry, art and massage. Child care will be available, but must be arranged online in advance. 9 a.m.-7 p.m. 1445 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; MauiYogaFestival.com

5, 8, 2627; DECEMBER 17, 2526

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Sponsored by Lahaina Arts Society. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 6610111; LahainaArts.com

Novemb Hawai‘i National Parks 2016 Centennial Juried Exhibition Schaefer International Gallery, Maui Arts & Cultural Center (MACC) Artists from around the Islands and across the U.S. express environmental, cultural and political concepts in new works inspired by Hawai‘i’s national parks and monuments. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

THROUGH NOVEMBER 10

Mālama Wao Akua Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center This multimedia exhibit explores Maui Nui’s native flora and fauna, combined with talks by researchers and conservationists. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

45

Kumu Kahua Theater: Uchina Aloha Playwright and “Pidgin Guerilla” Lee A. Tonouchi’s warmhearted tale follows generations of an Okinawan family in Hawai‘i. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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Talk Story on the Land Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes Join Hawaiian Islands Land Trust on this informative hike of the dunes and wetlands refuge, 9 a.m.-noon. HILT also hosts volunteer sessions to manage invasive species and propagate native plants, Fridays, 8 a.m.noon, at Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes. 244-5263; hilt.org

Arbor Day tree giveaway Maui Nui Botanical Gardens To celebrate Arbor Day, the Gardens will give away 1,000 native Hawaiian trees, one per person. Enjoy plant-care demos and talk with experts. 9 a.m.-noon. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; Mnbg.org

Maui Yoga Festival Makawao Union Church Explore yoga sessions, lectures, Hawaiian and Tibetan chanting classes, and healthy food, plus live music and dance performances. An open-air market will feature

Nov 4, Dec 2 Nov 11, Dec 9 Nov 18, Dec 16 Nov 25, Dec 23 Dec 30

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei Fifth Friday Lāna‘i

Honoring Tradition Castle Theater, MACC Hālau o Ka Hanu Lehu presents a benefit concert of Hawaiian chant, music and hula. 4 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

& DECEMBER 4

Upcountry Sundays Acoustic Style Casanova Italian Restaurant and Deli Volunteer-run Mana‘o Radio goes live in this benefit showcasing local and visiting musicians the first Sunday of every month. 2-5 p.m. 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao; 242-5666; ManaoRadio.com

6, 20

& DECEMBER 4

Blue‘Āina Reef Cleanup Lahaina Harbor Trilogy Excursions hosts this monthly underwater cleanup along Maui’s reefs. 9 a.m.-1 p.m. A suggested $30 donation benefits various nonprofits. Reserve your spot at SailTrilogy.com.

Modern Māori Quartet McCoy Studio Theater, MACC These suave crooners present a fresh take on the classic Māori show bands of yesteryear. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Morgan Heritage Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC This contemporary reggae quintet delivers an eclectic organic roots sound. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

COURTESY OF THE MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

THROUGH NOVEMBER 6

Honoring Tradition, Nov. 6

1112

Sun Yat-sen Festival Wo Hing Museum Celebrate the 150th anniversary of “the father of modern China.” Films and displays on Sun Yat-sen and his connection to Maui, plus Chinese martial arts and cultural activities. 1-7 p.m. 858 Front St., Lahaina; 661-3262; LahainaRestoration.org

1113

Maui Chefs Invitational The Mill House Join eight acclaimed chefs from around the country, including past ‘Aipono Chef of the Year winners Jeff Scheer and Sheldon Simeon, for this weekend of culinary creativity and interactive tastings. Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū; 270-0303; MauiChefsInvitational.com

1113

Hula o nā Keiki Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Some of the finest young dancers compete in ancient and modern hula, chant, and costume. The weekend also features demos and displays of Hawaiian arts and crafts. 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; 661-0011; KHBMaui.com

Life Is Sweet The Shops at Wailea Olympic gold medalist Carl Lewis hosts this decadently delicious event. Vote for your favorite desserts, prepared by Wailea’s top chefs. Live music, wine tastings and pūpū, prizes, and a silent auction all benefit Best Buddies Hawai‘i. 2-5 p.m. 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; 242-6962; BestBuddiesHawaii.org

ber 15

Dine out for Hospice Maui Restaurants across the island donate proceeds from today’s sales to the nonprofit that provides compassionate end-of-life care. See our Dining Guide for participating restaurants, or visit HospiceMaui.org.

Nahko & Medicine for the People Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC Singer/songwriter Nahko Bear performs hip-hop and folk rock influenced by his Puerto Rican, Apache and Filipino heritage. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

COURTESY OF THE MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Hui No‘eau Wailea Food & Wine Celebration Hotel Wailea Toast the Hui’s mission to support community arts education. The evening features a silent auction and generous tastes by top isle chefs and nationally acclaimed vintners. 5:30-8:30 p.m. 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

The Dover Quartet McCoy Studio Theater, MACC These young musicians catapulted to stardom after sweeping the 2013 Banff International String Quartet Competition. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

19, 21, 26, 28

Madeline the Mermaid Grand Wailea Resort Small fry will want to catch the resort’s resident merMaui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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maid for storytelling in the Pineapple Patch shop, 8 to 9:30 a.m. At 10 a.m., Madeline migrates to the activity pool for photo opps; registered guests are invited to swim along. 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; 8751234; GrandWailea.com

-DECEMBER 20

Uniques Gallery Gift Shop Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Do some holiday shopping at this display of paintings, sculpture, jewelry, body products, edible delicacies and more. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; before Castle Theater shows and during intermission. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

-DECEMBER 24

Hui Holidays Hui Noâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;eau Visual Arts Center Find that one-of-a-kind gift in this artisan showcase: jewelry, ceramics, paintings, photography, fiber, glass, holiday ornaments, Hui Print Collection calendars and more. Open daily, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

21-23

Maui Jim Maui Invitational Lahaina Civic Center Top collegiate teams battle it out at this annual event that gives basketball fans something extra to celebrate Thanksgiving weekend. 1840 Honoapiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ilani Hwy., Lahaina; MauiInvitational.com

John Mayall Castle Theater, MACC This blues pioneer is joined by his new band that includes guitarist Rocky Athas, Greg Rzab on bass, and Jay Davenport on drums. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Discover 90+ local artists BANYAN TREE GALLERY AND

THE OLD JAIL GALLERY Browse our two galleries in the Old Lahaina Courthouse open daily 9-5 and enjoy the weekend fine art fairs under the Banyan Tree.

648 Wharf Street, Lahaina 808-661-0111 | info@lahaina-arts.com www.lahainaarts.com

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Duke, Nov. 26

Adventure Club—Lei’d in Hawai‘i Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC Canada’s Adventure Club offers a mix of slick EDM and floor-rumbling dubstep that will have you dancing into the night. Ages 18 and older. 6 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

-DECEMBER 11

Mary Poppins Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents everyone’s favorite nanny in this supercalifragilisticexpialidocious musical. Fridays, 7:30 p.m.; Saturdays, 7:30 p.m. (and 2 p.m. December 3 and 10); Sundays, 3 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

E Pūlama Mau Iā Maui Hale Ho‘ike‘ike This benefit for Hale Ho‘ike‘ike (formerly Bailey House Museum) includes Hawaiian music and hula, craft and food vendors, cultural demonstrations, silent auction, and more. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. 2375 Main St., Wailuku; 244-3326; MauiMuseum.org

Duke McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Award-winning actor and writer Moses Goods portrays Hawai‘i’s first Olympic gold medalist—the father of modern surfing—Duke Paoa Kahanamoku. 5 and 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Bon Appetit from Le Creuset

Yule Be Home for Christmas Castle Theater, MACC Maui Choral Arts Association’s annual Christmas concert includes holiday classics, sing-alongs and new arrangements of old favorites. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

COURTESY OF THE MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Nā Mele O Maui Castle Theater, MACC This Hawaiian song and art competition features Maui County youth. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

DECEMBER

Atmosphere Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC This Minneapolis hip-hop group combines heart-onthe-sleeve lyrics with brooding beats. 6:45 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

-JANUARY 13

Celebrating What’s Right with the World Viewpoints Gallery Artists share their creative impressions on the theme. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

Joyeux Noel! Marmac Home & Kitchen

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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calendar Green Room: William Finnegan McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The Merwin Conservancy presents an evening with the award-winning journalist and longtime New Yorker staffer. Finnegan won the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for his best-selling memoir, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, one of five books on President Barack Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Holiday Pops Castle Theater, MACC Vocalist and Broadway performer Nicole Parker joins the Maui Pops Orchestra for this annual holiday concert. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

Jo Koy Castle Theater, MACC Comedian Koy is a round-table regular on E!’s Chelsea Lately; his onstage energy and family-inspired humor cross all boundaries. Recommended for mature audiences. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

10-11

Holiday Tree Lighting MauiWine’s estate Enjoy a holiday movie under the stars, photos with Santa Claus, keiki activities, plus MauiWine tastings and food for purchase. Free admission; attendees are asked to bring a nonperishable item for the Maui Food Bank. 4:30 p.m. 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., Ulupalakua; 878-6058; MauiWine.com

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Nutcracker Sweets Castle Theater, MACC The Maui Academy of Performing Arts presents its family-friendly production of this classic holiday ballet performed by more than 150 Academy students. Saturday, 7 p.m.; Sunday, 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Moku‘ula by Moonlight Kamehameha Iki Park Enjoy live ‘ukulele, slack-key guitar, and stories shared under a full moon. Guest speakers will also discuss native Hawaiian issues. Limited seating for elders; blankets, mats, and low beach chairs are welcome. 6-9 p.m. 525 Front St., Lahaina; Mokuula.com

17-18

Winter Concert Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui Chamber Orchestra presents holiday favorites. Saturday, 7:30 p.m.; Sunday, 3 p.m. Join conductor Robert E. Wills for a discussion Sunday at 1:30 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

Christmas 5K and Half-Mile Santa’s Keiki Dash Kaunoa Senior Center On, Dasher! Run for the fun of it—there’s no entry fee. A potluck follows, and participants are encouraged to bring an item for the Maui Food Bank. 8 a.m. 401 Alakapa Pl., Spreckelsville; 222-2484; VIRR.com

Jim Gaffigan Castle Theater, MACC The comedian and New York Times best-selling author presents his Fully Dressed tour. 8 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Phil Lesh & Friends Castle Theater, MACC The former Grateful Dead band member performs with a groovy lineup of friends. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

William Shatner Historic ‘Īao Theater The man behind Star Trek’s Captain Kirk shares stories about his life and career. 7-10 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 244-6969; MauiCelebritySeries.com

JANUARY

Bill Maher Castle Theater, MACC The man who opened the floodgates of funny political talk delivers his biting wit and social commentary, joined by guest comics Margaret Cho and David Cross. 8 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

4-8

Tournament of Champions Plantation Golf Course, Kapalua Come root (shhh—quietly!) for this exclusive field of champions—every one of them a 2016 PGA Tour winner. GolfAtKapalua.com

Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s Jan–Feb 2017 print edition must be received by Nov. 14. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

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who’s who KE ALAHELE | Fairmont Kea Lani Maui | August 20, 2016 | Maui Economic Development Board’s benefit for STEM education programs

MAUI ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT BOARD

L to R: Joy Barua, David Lassner, Joe Chee, Chuck Dando Jr. | Ronald & Kay Fukumoto | Josh Teigiser, Senator Brian Schatz, Buz Schott | Steve & Debbie Sturdevant

L to R: Rick Gronna, Bonnie Rice, John McConnell | Effie Cameron Ort, Colleen O’Shea Brady | Jennifer & Marty Welch| Audrey & Tony Takitani

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER | Nick’s Fishmarket | August 26, 2016 | Benefit for Maui Culinary Academy

JOSE MORALES

L to R: Dean Louie, Brianna Perry, Geno Sarmiento, Mya Carter| Leon W. Grant, Kimberly Payne | Debby & Chris Kaiwi | Albert & Susan Weihl, Jeff Alfriend

L to R: Charles Fredy, James Maher | Brian & Shannon Ward, Toby & Jerry Isaacs | Maria & Alfred Vollenweider | Debbie & Tom Woehler, Laurie Clark

JOSE MORALES

INDIGENOUS CROP BIODIVERSITY FESTIVAL | Maui Tropical Plantation | August 27, 2016

L to R: Amanda Stonz, Pali O’Connell | James Simpliciano, Jake Lansky, Sierra Knight | Chris Brosius, Hanoa Pua‘a-Freitas, Kyle Alreck, John Comcowich | Juliana Prater, Dan Ruday

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Maui nō ka ‘oi

LOOKING BACK

What’s in a Name? BY GAIL AINSWORTH

All year, we’ve been celebrating Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s twentieth anniversary. What could be more fitting, in our final issue of 2016, than to delve into the origin of our name? Here’s what local historian Gail Ainsworth had to say:

Maui nō ka ‘oi

You’d be forgiven for thinking that Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best,” was cooked up by some marketing wiz to promote tourism. But you’d be wrong. The saying dates back centuries. Ancient Hawaiians across the archipelago had a history of chant that included mele ho‘o‘ike‘ike, chants that were defined by their blatant bragging. Mele ho‘o‘ike‘ike could be quite rousing and often boastful of a particular beloved location. In the 1800s, Maui became the first island to take this tradition in a new direction, when Reverends S. Pa‘aluhi and Samuel Kapū Sr. of Ka‘ahumanu Church in Wailuku began to write songs using the phrase Maui nō ka ‘oi. Here’s an excerpt from Kapū’s song “Ku‘u Home ‘o Maui”: Auē, ke aloha ē, U‘i roselani ē, Nani Haleakalā, Ku‘u home ‘o Maui nō ka ‘oi, Ku‘u home ‘o Maui nō ka ‘oi.

Oh, the love [I feel]! For the roselani beauty So lovely is Haleakalā My home, Maui is the best! My home, Maui is the best!

“Maui nō ka ‘oi” resonated with the island’s people. Subsequent songwriters seem to have had a near-obsession with the phrase, incorporating it in boasting songs that also praised Haleakalā and the roselani, Maui’s flower. Many of these songs were written anonymously, the poets humbly wanting to keep the name of their revered island foremost, rather than themselves. Know that when you repeat “Maui nō ka ‘oi,” you are continuing a tradition that began with ancient Hawaiian chant and two centuries of Maui song.

This print from the late 1800s depicts the town of Wailuku at the foot of West Maui’s mountain. In the foreground sits Ka‘ahumanu Church, whose reverends gave song to the saying Maui nō ka ‘oi.

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(And two decades of celebrating Maui in the pages of this magazine.—Ed.)

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