Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine Jan-Feb 2017

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Luxury Issue Island Spas

Get Pampered in Paradise

A Legacy in Gold

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The End of King Sugar

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Features 30 » Adventure

FACING DOWN JAWS Monster waves aren’t Pe‘ahi’s only challenge. Story by Rod Antone

36 » Island Issues

LINKS OF GOLD Two queens, on islands half a world apart, inspired a tradition more than a century old. Story by Lehia Apana

53 » Health & Wellness

PAMPERED IN PARADISE Spa treatments to transport you ~ By Lehia Apana, John Giordani, Sarah Ruppenthal, Diane Haynes Woodburn

62 » Golf

ON THE UPSWING A centuries-old sport gets a technological upgrade. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

66 » At Home

WELCOME HOME Sometimes the greatest luxury is having room for all your friends. Story by Heidi Pool

About Our Cover

When MNKO managing editor Lehia Apana set out to research a perfect Maui day, she went in style: renting a Porsche Speedster from Maui Roadsters, and bringing along her own paparazzo, husband Brad Bayless. Little did Brad know, when he snapped a photo of her at sunset, that he’d taken a coverworthy image of luxury, Maui style. (See Lehia’s story on page 114.) Below: A massage hale at Spa Montage combines privacy with the pleasure of being pampered outdoors.

SPA MONTAGE

GOODBYE, SUGAR. HELLO . . . WHAT? As commercial sugar production ends in Hawai‘i, Maui teeters between crisis and opportunity. Story by Paul Wood

46 » Hawaiian Soul

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Departments

18 » Contributors

It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

20 » Publisher’s Note

By Diane Haynes Woodburn

22 » Talk Story

Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Lehia Apana, Sarah Smith & Shannon Wianecki

51 » Great Finds

ROYAL COLORS We offer a luscious spectrum of what green can get you. Compiled by Conn Brattain

108 » Calendar of Events

What’s happening where, when, and with whom

113 » Who’s Who

Seen making the scene on Maui

114 » A Perfect Day on Maui

LUXURY CRUISIN’ Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui. Story by Lehia Apana

DINING 82 » Dining Feature Ruff job: Maui Humane Society’s Adam Powell is among the officers on call 24/7 to handle animal emergencies. See story on page 28. Photo by Ryan Siphers

88 » Chef ’s Kitchen

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available in January)

HITCH A RIDE: Lehia Apana shares videos of scenic sites on her “perfect day” itinerary in a Porsche Speedster convertible at MauiMagazine.net/luxury-cruisin. SURF THE WEB: Catch the big-wave action at last year’s Pe‘ahi Challenge. You’ll find the video at MauiMagazine.net/peahi-challenge. THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for the latest on what’s happening around Maui County. MauiMagazine.net/maui-events RED CARPET TREATMENT: Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo in our online Facebook albums and share with friends. WIN A TRIP TO MAUI! You could win round-trip travel with Alaska Airlines, three nights at the luxurious Montage Kapalua Bay, and more. See page 35 for details, then enter online at MauiMagazine.net/WinMaui2017.

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A PASTA-PASSIONATE “CHEFETTE” Chelsee Anderson’s title is sous chef at Taverna Maui, but she says (with a laugh) that she’s more of a “pasta Nazi.” Story by Becky Speere

92 » Maui Mixology

THE GREAT BEER COCKTAIL Maui’s craft brews are good for what ales you. Story by Becky Speere

94 » Dining Guide

A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

SAVE THE DATE! APRIL 23, 2017 THE 15th ANNUAL ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS GALA HYATT REGENCY MAUI Check MauiMagazine.net/aipono for information.

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TREETOP DINING The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea takes fine fare to new heights . . . and our dining editor goes ape. Story by Becky Speere


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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

How do you pamper yourself ?

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I find a remote freshwater pool surrounded with huge flat rocks to sunbathe on. —Becky Speere

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani

Terme at the Spa Grande is my favorite place to pamper myself on Maui.—Adelle Lennox I like to use a charcoal mask and watch an episode of The Office.—Shelby Lynch

STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch After a particularly hectic week, I’ll have breakfast at Market Fresh Bistro in Makawao with my husband, followed by an afternoon spent with my nose buried in an absorbing novel. I throw in a nap for good measure. —Heidi Pool As a new dad, I feel especially pampered if I get the chance to enjoy a quick surf; it’s a simple luxury these days. —Rodrigo Moraes

EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Rod Antone, John Giordani, Heidi Pool, Sarah Ruppenthal, Sarah Smith, Shannon Wianecki, Paul Wood CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Lehia Apana, Brad Bayless, Conn Brattain, Kyle Ellison, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Aaron Lynton, Rodrigo Moraes, Mike Neal, Mike Neubauer, Tony Novak-Clifford, Travis Rowan, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Erin Makai

It’s not about pampering myself as much as it’s about getting out of my comfort zone and experiencing things foreign to my frame of reference that nourishes my soul and allows me to keep a fresh perspective in all the other aspects of daily life. —Tony Novak-Clifford

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Contact Josh@MauiOlive.com to order or pre-order from next year’s harvest

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Kao Kushner Taking a day to unplug—no phone, laptop or iPad—and reconnect with nature. —Sarah Ruppenthal

SUBSCRIPTION MANAGER

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I get monthly facials, but there’s no way I’m sharing my contact!—Sara Smith

NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

Subscription inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net NATIONAL MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services HAWAI‘I MagNet IN-ROOM Maui Circulation E-MAIL ADDRESS Info@MauiMagazine.net This year I flew to San Francisco, walked around the city and sketched all day. Wandering with no expectations and observing life feeds my soul.—Erin Makai

MOVING? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing Group, P.O. Box 3942, Lacey, WA 98509-3942. Please note: If the post office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation, unless we receive a corrected address within one year of that notification.

Watching the sunrise or sunset from my deck hot tub with my honey.—Mike Neal Every so often I get a massage from Green Ti [Boutique & Massage] in Wailuku. That, and Netflix. —Rod Antone

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, Eating & Drinking, & Queen Ka'ahumanu Center magazine. 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print)| ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2017 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net

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publisher’s note The Ultimate Luxury By the time you read this, the election fallout will (cross your fingers) have subsided, and we’ll be starting what I hope will be a bright and beautiful new year. It’s still 2016 as I write, but to help 2017 get off to a rousing start, we offer our annual Luxury Issue. It’s not a hard task. Maui boasts world-class resorts, chefs admired all over the planet, oceanfront homes, iconic big waves, and open roads that all lead to Paradise. We’ve been busily working to fill these pages with tips to find it all. In fact, in just the last month (purely in the line of duty), I’ve been to the Four Seasons for a pampered stay, a weekend at the Fairmont Kea Lani for the Noble Chef (a gala that celebrates and supports Maui’s culinary industry), and an ‘Aipono dinner in the spectacular Kapalua Cliff House—characters from The Great Gatsby would have felt right at home. This morning, however, luxury is a distant memory. Yesterday I cooked and served a huge Thanksgiving Dinner. Today I awoke to a miserable cold, a sink full of dishes, and a deadline in two days. So I am allowing myself one last indulgence, by sharing with you “the day after Thanksgiving” from 2013. This way, I get to go back to bed (luxury!). Enjoy!

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BRUCE TURNBULL Godfather of Maui Sculptors One of a kind one at a time

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Wishing you a year filled with family, friends, food and joy. And perhaps, a room of one’s own. (I finally did get that room, in 2015.)

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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NINA KUNA

RHAPSODY IN BLUE

Last night we had a holiday dinner for twenty. As usual, a deadline is looming, and I am seriously behind. Our house is filled with friends and family: Jamie’s twin brother, Jeff, and his wife, Elaine, are in the guest bedroom; our son Jon, in-between rentals, is camped out in my maybe someday home office; and our Kā‘anapali friends Deb and Chris are bunking in my husband’s office. This means my “desk” is once again the kitchen table. I’ve almost cleared enough space in the kitchen to start breakfast, when Jamie comes in and starts clattering pots and pans. “I think I’ll make some liliko‘i butter,” he announces. Jeff emerges and begins assembling our first-ever fake Christmas tree. I move to the kitchen table and try to work. (Ours is a great room—kitchen, dining room and living room all in one big, open, unsoundproofed space.) “I’ll get breakfast going as soon as Jamie clears a space on the stove,” I promise. “Oh, no need,” Elaine says. “I’ll bring out the leftovers.” I retreat to the far end of the table to make room. Jamie leans in behind me to read over my shoulder. “What’s the theme?” he asks. “Luxury,” I reply. “As in, ‘a room of one’s own,’” I mutter to myself. Debby joins us, dressed in flannel PJs, and offers to adorn the tree. Elaine volunteers as elf, and I cave in to the food and fun as well. An hour later, guilt gets the better of me, and I begin to clear the table, hoping to get some work done, when Jon emerges from the office that just won’t happen. “Ham and eggs?” I offer. “You may as well leave it all out,” Debby advises. And she’s right. Jamie brings the gardener in for pie; our neighbor stops in to pick up the dish he left last night, and sits down to gab. My nephew drops by for a sandwich, and our two other sons arrive to hit the buffet line. By now, I’m looking around for a spot to put a cash register, or a menu board with the day’s specials. The day is nearly over, and l haven’t finished a tenth of what I had hoped. Then I take a deep breath and look around. Right here, right now, is real luxury: a home filled with family, friends, laughter and food. I head back to my computer, grinning. “What are you doing?” Jamie asks. “I’m trying to work.” “Oh, right,” he says. “Pass the potatoes.”



talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless

Maui’s Mrs. Manners If Lynn Araki-Regan has her say, her Hawaii School of Etiquette will give a leg up to Maui’s next generation of leaders. It’s a newfound passion for this attorney-at-law: training kids ages three to twelve in the social graces, from successful small talk, to the anatomy of a thank-you note, to maneuvering through formal dining like a champ. “People are constantly judging you. If you can convey that you are confident and comfortable, that gives you an edge,” Lynn asserts. I’m sold, and promptly enroll my seven-yearold daughter, Esta. Lessons begin with the elements of a proper introduction: whom to name first, eye contact, handshake. Of some surprise to these Maui kids, referring to everyone older than you as “auntie”

Formal Dining 101: Did you know there’s a proper way to hold a cracker? Pass the salt? Wipe your mouth with a cloth napkin? Ask your kids—but first send them to Lynn Araki-Regan’s Hawaii School of Etiquette.

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Story by Sara Smith Photography by Mieko Horikoshi

and “uncle” doesn’t pass muster everywhere. The kids melt into a puddle of giggles when it’s time to practice on each other. My daughter sits slumped in her chair, sulking. Each class, Mrs. Araki-Regan bravely seats the youngsters at a formal dining table for lessons in mastering different utensils, properly passing the salt and pepper, civilized conduct and social cues. It’s like deciphering a secret language, and the kids are eating it up. [Pop quiz: Do you know the five uses for a cloth napkin? Hint: Do use it to cover your mouth when coughing or sneezing. Don’t blow your nose with it. (The horror!)] The students practice listening without interrupting, the boys learn to help seat the girls before


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TALK STORY

Above: Lynn’s students practice a winning handshake and proper introduction, skills that will serve them in good stead throughout their professional lives. Below: Etiquette training teaches civility and courtesy, useful reminders for us all—no matter what our age.

Above: Here’s a helpful trick for deciphering a bewildering formal table setting: Make an OK sign with both hands. The left hand forms a “b” for bread plate on the left; the right hand forms a “d” for drinks on the right.

It’s the how-to-eat-with-fork-and-knife lesson, and I’m pretty sure someone’s about to lose an eye. themselves, and elbows are absolutely not tolerated on the table. It’s the how-to-eat-with-fork-and-knife lesson, and I’m pretty sure someone’s about to lose an eye. Cutlery is waving everywhere, and I realize Lynn is even braver than I thought. We Americans use the “zigzag” method, switching our forks between hands to cut and then spear our food. The rest of the world practices Continental style, keeping an upside-down fork and holding onto the knife while eating. The students practice both; Mrs. Araki-Regan wants them prepared to dine anywhere. In the cacophony of clings and clangs, as bits of baby carrot are shooting off plates in all directions, a triumphant cheer

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erupts, “I did it! I cut my carrot!” By the end of the class, most kids are keeping their napkins on their laps, successfully carving their practice cucumbers and gracefully eating peas. Lynn’s son, Riley, attends the classes, too. (He tells me he busted his dad for playing a video game at the dining table that week.) In fact, Riley is the reason Lynn traveled to Georgia to formally study etiquette. She wanted him to know how to act in a variety of social situations, feel comfortable traveling, be able to impress a future boss . . . skills she wasn’t taught, growing up on Maui. Lynn recalls ruefully how her confidence suffered when she went off to law school.


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Above: A napkin, the kids learn, has many uses, including subtly signaling the start and end of a meal. While dining, one should keep the napkin folded in half on one’s lap, with the folded side facing the table. Below: It takes concentration to master one’s utensils in both the American “zigzag” and Continental styles.

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ui a M While our relaxed, island ways are full of aloha, they don’t necessarily prepare our kids for success in life, especially beyond our shores. Local schools have asked Lynn to give their students lessons. She plans to offer training in specialized topics, such as cultural etiquette, business conduct, and social media for teens. When I ask my daughter what she liked best about the classes, Esta shares that learning the proper way to hold a cracker was her favorite. (Seriously, kid?) I ask if she thought anything was just plain whacky. With comic timing she replies, “How to hold a cracker.” Later, though, I catch her greeting her grandmother’s friend with eye contact, a handshake, and a flash of confidence that would make Mrs. Araki-Regan proud. Find more about Hawaii School of Etiquette on Facebook or at HawaiiEtiquette.com.

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TALK STORY in season

The Urchin & the Hala Tree An old Hawaiian proverb says, “Pala ka hala, momona ka hā‘uke‘uke.” (“When the hala ripens, the hā‘uke‘uke [sea urchin] is fat.”) Hala trees (Pandanus tectorius) are among Hawai‘i’s most recognizable and versatile native plants. All along the coastline, bunches of spiky leaves erupt out of thick trunks perched atop prop roots. Weavers strip the long, narrow hala leaves (lau hala) of their spines and bend them into mats, hats, and bowls. Fishermen keep an eye on hala, too. The tree signals the best time to forage for two favorite ocean delicacies. Hala fruits look like arboreal pineapples: round and segmented. When they break apart and fall to the ground, it’s time to harvest hā‘uke‘uke, or helmet urchins. These deep-purple sea urchins congregate on wave-battered rocks, where they creep along and graze on algae. Unlike their prickly cousins who wave away potential predators with needlesharp spines, these echinoderms armor themselves with a smooth, plated dome. This helmet is

Story by Shannon Wianecki Photo by Mike Neubauer

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perfect for withstanding the high-impact surf zone. Two to three times a year, the coastal animals grow “fat,” or reproductively mature. Fishermen crack the urchin’s helmet to reveal its gonads: five glistening, golden segments that are scooped out and eaten raw or cooked. Urchin aficionados crave the creamy texture and distinctive, sweet and briny flavor, which varies according to the animal’s diet and the water temperature where it was harvested. Hā‘uke‘uke is one of several edible urchins popular around the world, particularly in Italy, France, Japan and Hawai‘i. Humans aren’t the only ones who’ve discovered the joy of sea urchin gonads, either. A second Hawaiian proverb reveals: “Pala ka hala, momona ka uhu.” (“When the hala ripens, the uhu [parrotfish] is fat.”) Parrotfish grow plump snacking on sea urchins, and smart fishermen know how to hook an uhu using hā‘uke‘uke as a lure. Their efforts result in a double feast: raw urchin and roasted parrotfish. So ‘ono (delicious)!



TALK STORY day in the life

Animal’s Best Friend NAME Adam Powell

TITLE Humane Enforcement Officer, Maui Humane Society DANGEROUS GROUND The call came in to the Maui Humane Society: a dog was entangled in a fence and unable to reach shade or water. Arriving at the scene, Adam Powell noted that the asphalt where the dog was caught was a scalding 145 degrees Fahrenheit; the animal’s health was fading fast. “In the time that I was observing him, he went from sitting up and panting to laying down and not making any noise.” Adam used bolt cutters to gain access to the barely conscious dog, wrapped him in wet towels, and rushed him to the Maui Humane Society, where the animal later recovered. PET PROJECT Until recently, if an emergency like this occurred outside of Maui Humane Society hours, nonprofit groups like Valley Isle

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Animal Rescue could sometimes step in. Thanks to a new Maui Humane Society initiative, help is always just a phone call away. A lean budget precluded hiring new workers, but with a bit of creative scheduling and officers willing to shuffle their shifts, the shelter launched its twenty-four-hour animal emergency response hotline last year. “This program has been extra motivating for me—it’s exciting knowing we can now be there no matter what time it is,” Adam says. SPEAK! Adam and his six fellow officers may be called upon to rescue or subdue a frantic animal, scout potential issues such as unleashed

dogs, or educate a neglectful owner. When it comes to dealing with humans, the job demands diplomatic skills. “We respond to a lot of barking complaints,” says Adam. “Typically a dog is barking for a reason, so that’s something we address for the dog’s sake, but also, nobody wants to hear loud noises all night. Some people call us, very frustrated, and just want someone to listen.” The unpredictability of the job requires officers to carry a medley of equipment, such as microchip scanners, gurneys, various leashes, and Adam’s favorite—treats. He says that one of the most effective tools is education. “Sometimes you’ll find people willfully neglecting their animals, but some people just don’t know that what they’re doing might be wrong,” he says. “Simply talking to them helps, and often you see a complete turnaround. It’s so rewarding to see the change not only in animals, but people, too.” To reach the twenty-four-hour animal response hotline, call 808-877-3680, extension 211. Story by Lehia Apana Photo by Ryan Siphers


Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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Story by Rod Anton e Photos by Mike Neal and Aaron Lynton 30

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It was Saturday night, December 5, 2015, when my buddy Derrick Meyers texted, asking if I wanted to wake up at 3:30 a.m. and work with him on a security boat for the Pe‘ahi Challenge. I thought for exactly one second and replied, “No.” “Wow, I thought for sure you would say yes,” he texted back. “Going be awesome, brah. Free grinds, and we get paid $250 each.” Money? Hmmm. . . . Eventually I agreed, despite the warning bells going off in my head. By the time I realized my mistake, it was too late. The Pe‘ahi Challenge. It’s a big-wave surf tournament at Pe‘ahi, on Maui’s north shore. Jaws is what surfers christened the break there. You’ve heard about Jaws, right? Biggest wave in the world? That’s the one. Derrick and I got to Kahului Harbor at 4 a.m. In the dark, we could hear the waves crashing onto the break wall. Derrick jumped in with two surfer friends of his, and I hooked up with a silver-ponytailed local braddah who introduced himself as Doug Camanse, a.k.a. Uncle Dougie. He was captain of a vessel that barely had room for him, his son Puali, and me; but he proudly assured me that the steel-and-foam boat was “practically unsinkable.” Good thing, because he also admitted he had sunk three boats prior. The alarm bells in my head started up again.

MIKE NEAL

Monster waves aren’t Pe‘ahi’s only challenge .


ADVENTURE

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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For so early in the morning, the harbor was busy. The Jaws support crew included a medical boat, a video crew, a ton of Jet Skis, and half-a-dozen small “security” boats like Uncle Dougie’s. As I climbed onboard, Uncle Dougie and Puali pulled on raincoats. I had maybe a second to ponder this detail before we took off. Ever ride a boat on rough seas? How about a tiny boat on rough seas? How about a tiny boat on rough seas in total darkness? From the get-go, we were launching into the air over swells and crashing down on the water. In the dark, it was impossible to ready myself for impact. All I could do was hold on for dear life. All I saw were shadows of what looked like towering waves coming in to swamp us. I was pretty sure Uncle Dougie couldn’t see any better, either, but that didn’t stop him from accelerating to top speed. I couldn’t figure out how he was navigating until he yelled over the crashing waves, “EH, TRY LOOK BEHIND YOU FOR TWO RED LIGHTS AND SEE IF THEY MATCH UP.” I turned and saw two flashing lights—buoys, about a hundred feet apart. This was Uncle Dougie’s only way of knowing he was heading for the opening and not about to crash into the concrete break walls. Somehow we made it out into open waters, the waves doing an Oscar-worthy impersonation of The Perfect Storm, and Uncle Dougie piloting like he was on The Dukes of Hazzard. I lost count of how many times we launched into the air and crashed down. As the sky lightened, I saw the ocean for the first time that morning. To our left were mountains of water, swelling and smash-

ing onto the shore to our right. Whitewash and mist covered the beaches from Kahului to Pā‘ia. We got to Jaws just as the sun rose, and I welcomed the chance to breathe and think. That’s when I realized I had no idea what I was supposed to be doing. I asked Uncle Dougie. “We supposed to keep people from interfering with the surf contest,” he said. Me: So if we see someone that isn’t supposed to be here, we kick them out?” Uncle: “Yep.” Me: “What if they don’t want to leave?” Uncle: “Then they going see the bottom of my boat.” Me: “Oh. Okay.” Turns out Uncle Dougie taught a community kung fu class in Keanae. At seventy-three, he looked a fit fifty-three. Everyone in the water came by and shook his hand, and bowed their heads in respect while they did it. His son Puali is a quiet guy in his twenties who smiled a lot and kept trying to take video of the waves with his GoPro. They were an efficient team. I felt like an outsider until Uncle Dougie asked me, “Eh, you Hawaiian, yeah?” Me: “No, Uncle, I’m Portuguese and Filipino.” Uncle: “You sure? Because riding out here, I heard you chanting like one Hawaiian.” Then Puali and he laughed their asses off. I realized they were talking about the noises I made every time we went airborne and

A gallery of wipeouts at the 2015 Pe‘ahi Challenge, left to right: Yuri Soledade, Carlos Burle, Koa Rothman, Dave Wassel

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MIKE NEAL; TOP: AARON LYNTON

Not much bigger than a Jet Ski itself, Uncle Dougie’s boat (red circle) gets tossed in the surf, our white-knuckled writer aboard.


MIKE NEAL

ADVENTURE

Above: Maui surfer Billy Kemper rides into first place at the 2015 competition. Left: Jaws spits out Australian Mark Matthews with an injured body . . . and possibly a bruised ego.

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crashed down: “OOOH, AHHH, UGHHH!” I laughed, too, and suddenly I was part of the crew. The contest hadn’t started yet, but some of the competitors were already catching waves. And when I say “catching waves,” I mean they were staring death in the face as they veered down a forty- to sixty-foot wall of water. If they survived the drop, they had to turn and race out of the wave before it folded in half and tried to crush them. I knew some of the competitors. Ian Walsh, who grew up riding Jaws and is sponsored by Red Bull. His younger brother, Shaun, who had the same advantage. Kai Lenny, a big-wave surfer, stand-up paddleboard champion, windsurfer, kite boarder, sponger (body boarder), you name it. Billy Kemper, a Jaws regular, whose wife is Tahiti Hernandez. You might know Tahiti’s brother, Bruno Mars. The Walsh brothers I know personally, the other two only by reputaTop, left to right: Mark Matthews gets a lift via Jet Ski. Between bouts of nausea, the author manages to snap a shot of the action tion, but I was cheering for all four. You have to support the Maui boys, at the 2015 Pe‘ahi Challenge. At the harbor, the medical team rallies especially at Jaws. to take Mark to the hospital. Above, left to right: Shane Dorian, The competition still hadn’t started when one of the surfers made Albee Layer, Greg Long, Ian Walsh, Billy Kemper, and Gabriel Villarán. it down the face of the wave, but instead of turning, went straight. You can’t do that at Jaws; you can’t outrun the wave. It will catch you KEEPING WATCH and punish you with wicked fury. That’s what happened to this guy, In rural Ha‘ikū, along Maui’s north shore, the land descends in rolling hills from Hāna Highway to cliffs overlooking Pe‘ahi, Australian surfer Mark Matthews. The wave caught him and tried to better known to surfers the world over as Jaws. It’s prime real drown him. He popped up and got hit by another monster. estate from which to observe big waves—and big-wave surfers— Somebody darted in with a Jet Ski and pulled him out of the impact and the area’s also popular with cyclists, equestrians and hikers. Fifteen ancient trails have been identified here, along with zone. They stabilized him and he was off to the medical boat. Then historic hale (Hawaiian structures). The late Alex Bode started one of the rescuers approached us and said, “You guys need to take Waikikena Farm on some of this land, growing Hawaiian plants him back to the harbor so he can go to the hospital.” and helping at-risk youth and families by teaching them to farm. We got Matthews into our boat and tried to make him comfortable, This is prime real estate from a developer’s standpoint, too. On September 30, 2016, spurred in part by the sale of one of five but he was a mess. He had caught a moving mountain and paid for it lots for a private home, the County of Maui purchased the other with a dislocated shoulder and a couple of broken bones. It was easier four—nearly 270 acres. “We started looking at the possibility of riding back to Kahului with the waves than against them, but it still losing the whole area,” says County Councilman Don Guzman. “Our plan was always to keep it as a passive conservation area, must have been a nightmare for Mark. to preserve its pristine views and open spaces.” There isn’t much to tell after that. Jaws kept pumping and the Over the years, these former pineapple fields have become a competition did, too. Kai Lenny rushed almost every wave and popped dumping ground for trash and abandoned vehicles. Alexander & Baldwin, which owned the land, cleaned it up before selling it to back up after every wipeout. Shaun Walsh was battered by the wind the County. “In the next three weeks, we found more abandoned as he headed down a monster, but kept his balance and rode it all vehicles,” says Guzman. the way down. Big brother Ian looked like he was going to have an Happily, Pe‘ahi has some powerful supporters. While the County assesses where to place berms and perhaps reroute old amazing ride in the barrel of a behemoth, but got hit by the lip of a pineapple roads to make it harder to dump abandoned cars, wave and fell into a backwards wipeout. He still scored well enough Kathy Kaohu, Guzman’s executive assistant, notes that “an to take fourth place. First place went to Billy Kemper, who found the assortment of organizations have formed Malama Hamakua barrel and rode out like a bullet train out of Osaka. Maui (HamakuaMaui.org) to help steward the land. They include the Waikikena Foundation, Sierra Club, Ha‘ikū Community By the end, I was sunburnt and running on fumes. Heading back, Association, Surfrider Foundation, old-roads advocates and Uncle Dougie said, “You did good today. Next time get competition, representatives from big-surf contests. The County is working ask for my boat.” with Hawaiian lineal descendants of the region on preserving ancient trails, and Hawai‘i Farmers Union United is interested in I laughed. “Next time I’ll drive out to Jaws and swim to you from doing organic farming here. shore. I don’t want to ride from the harbor to Jaws ever again.” Want to help? Contact Councilman Don Guzman, 808-270He smiled, and pushed the boat to top speed. We crashed wave 5501, don.guzman@mauicounty.us; or the Office of the Mayor, 808-270-7855, mayors.office@mauicounty.gov. after wave, and this time I smiled, too.

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UPPER & LOWER LEFT: MIKE NEAL; TOP MIDDLE & RIGHT: ROD ANTONE

ADVENTURE


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Contest runs January 1–February 28, 2017. Winner will be notified by phone on March 6, 2017.


ISLAND ISSUES

The Pu‘unēnē Mill has ceased production, along with 36,000 acres of sugarcane farming in Maui’s central valley and along the island’s north shore, ending about two centuries of commercial sugar in Hawai‘i. Maui’s very identity is teetering between crisis and opportunity. Story by PAUL WOOD | Photography by TONY NOVAK-CLIFFORD

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Hello . . . What?

For as long as anyone now alive can remember, fields of sugarcane have blanketed Maui’s central valley. From 1878 until the end of 2016, this thirsty crop gulped countless millions of gallons of water diverted from island streams to the flumes and ditches of East Maui Irrigation Company. Now Hawai‘i’s last sugar plantation, Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar, is shifting its focus, harvesting the last of the cane and pondering—along with the rest of us—what comes next. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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HC&S was the last of Hawai‘i’s once-great sugar plantations. What phoenix will emerge from those fields?

Fire consumes unwanted leaves in a Pā‘ia canefield prior to harvest. HC&S has pledged to keep the land farmable, but what will become of its 36,000 acres is still anyone’s guess.

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ISLAND ISSUES

Alexander & Baldwin, Inc., spent all of 2016 shutting down its 140-year-old sugar plantation—Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company—after decades of running behind global competition. The formerly steaming mill stacks no longer tell the people of Maui which way the wind is blowing. Public reactions to this historic change have been as widespread as the plantation itself. Some residents have rejoiced over the end of cane burning—the long-standing preharvest practice of torching the ripe fields. Some have wept over the loss of employment, or of Maui’s heritage. Some have offered visions of a vast organic farm filling the island’s central plain. Others scoff at the idea. For example, the oft-cited and often sour economist Paul Brewbaker told Pacific Business News last year that “Agriculture is the last thing that is going to happen on Maui.” Others shrug. HC&S was the last vestige of Hawai‘i’s sugar-farming tradition. Everyone saw this coming. Maui runs on tourism now. “The visitor industry remains Maui County’s most diversified and important economic engine,” says Sherry Duong, executive director of the Maui Visitors & Convention Bureau. “The closing of the plantation will not affect that status.” In fact, Duong says, “It will be exciting to see what new agritourism opportunities emerge from the cane fields.” So, what gives, and who knows?

e Immediate Hit

Nearly 700 HC&S employees lost their jobs in 2016. Most of those jobs were specialized. If you know how to operate a gigantic cranegrab that hoists tons of burnt cane stalks into a tournahauler, you

will not find the equivalent position at, say, a resort golf course. Also, many employees had a family history with HC&S, some many generations deep. There has been pain. Fortunately, Maui’s economy is strong, with unemployment at just 3 percent. And HC&S’s own vigorous employment-transition programs have been boosted by support from labor unions, the State, Maui County Mayor Alan Arakawa’s Sugar Operators Support Task Force, and even the U.S. Department of Labor. Alexander & Baldwin CEO and president Chris Benjamin, who managed Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar from 2009 to 2011, said last March, “Our responsibility to our HC&S employees will not end with the cessation of sugar production.” What will end, though, is an extraordinary history of skillstraining programs that have produced, over the years, thousands of certified welders, electricians, internal-combustion mechanics, and other journeyman-level skilled workers. One former millwright, who learned welding while on the payroll of Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar, claimed that, “Other than Pearl Harbor, the state has no other training facility for these skills.” Over the decades, many graduates of HC&S apprentice programs took their skills elsewhere in the county and state. Now we’ve lost a de facto training academy, and that loss is probably immeasurable. On Maui, many vendors of agricultural products, machine components, and irrigation supplies just lost their best customer. Greg Heyd, the Maui branch manager for Brewer Environmental Industries, says that the loss of HC&S was “a crushing blow. We had a partnership that went back over 100 years.” He declines to state specifics, but concedes that “the numbers are big.”

Left: A giant crane fills a cane-haul truck with scorched stalks of sugar. Right: Cane-haul-truck operator Michael Feiteira watches a harvest in Waikapū. Sugar farming has always been labor-intensive. In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, plantations actively recruited immigrant workers who would become Maui’s multicultural local population. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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Asked whether Maui’s small-scale farmers, who have piggybacked on HC&S’s bulk purchases, will also feel the loss, Heyd says, “That’s accurate. We’ve been bringing in whole containers. Now we may have to go to smaller quantities from our Honolulu operation.” For Brewer and for Maui, this financial blow is just now striking. Also, HC&S has been a prominent contributor to community causes and nonprofits such as Maui United Way and Maui Arts & Cultural Center. But Benjamin of A&B pledged last January that his company “remains committed to Maui and will continue to be a significant corporate supporter of Maui charities and organizations.” The company’s message has been consistent: this is not an end but the beginning of an uncertain transition.

e Land Will Not Be Abandoned

HC&S will continue to farm. But under what name, and growing what? For decades the company has experimented with crops other than sugar. Right now it’s conducting wide-scale trials of soybean, corn, sorghum, and sunflower. No other crop can withstand the winds of Maui’s central plain quite the way sugarcane did. Nevertheless, “We want to get this land redeployed,” Benjamin said in a September interview on Hawai‘i Public Radio. “We’re looking to the community for solutions.” He says the company has received hundreds of proposals, “some of which we’re pursuing.” Meanwhile, HC&S manager Rick Volner is determined to protect the farm’s fertility by means of cover crops and conservation strategies. “In most of the fields, immature cane is being mulched into the ground to create a protective layer,” he says. “In harvested fields, grasses and vines are allowed to come up, and these will be mowed to manage

them.” He intends to test new agricultural techniques “to improve soil health and minimize artificial inputs.” The land will not blow off to Kīhei in a dust storm, nor will it run into the sea to choke the reefs.

e Soil Is Not Toxic

This is a tough topic, perfectly tailored to public-forum yelling matches. Nobody likes living downwind of a farm, and Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar is the biggest farm Maui will ever see. But the inflammatory rhetoric on social media generally fails to mention this: In Hawai‘i, a century of experimentation resulted in pest-resistant cane varieties and the introduction of natural biocontrols—not GMOs, but fieldhardy strains, and natural predators carefully introduced to the Islands to thwart small pests. These cut the need for chemical interventions. As Greg Heyd of Brewer Environmental Industries, the company that provided the farm’s supplements, says, “With HC&S, there were no insecticides, fungicides, nematicides—not like pineapple.” Retired agricultural consultant Bill Pyle worked at HC&S for ten years. He helped transform the farm’s water efficiency by introducing drip irrigation. Pyle is buoyantly enthusiastic about the plantation’s long history of ingenuity. “I get pissed off when people blow smoke about HC&S.” He cites two environmental-group studies, one of mill mud, the other of cane smoke. “They found nothing. We never sprayed any pesticide.” Then he corrects himself. “Oh, just before harvest we used a mild herbicide to ‘sting’ the plants so that they made more sugar.” Also, “We did use fertilizer, because the soil needed nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium [primary ingredients in all fertilizers]. The soils here are geologically sterile.” He means that Maui’s volcanic

Inside Pu‘unēnē Mill, sunlight illuminates dust from bagasse— powdery cellulose left behind when sugarcane gets processed. Despite early efforts to recycle bagasse as a building material, HC&S mostly used it to fuel the plant and generate electricity, some of which it sold to Maui Electric Company.

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ISLAND ISSUES

Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company has been zealous about extracting every molecule of juice from its harvested cane. The industrialization of sugar production, developed over many decades at mills like Pu‘unēnē’s (a.k.a. “the factory”), will not easily convert to processing other crops.

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ISLAND ISSUES Trucked in from Pu‘unēnē Mill, mountains of raw sugar occupy Kahului Trucking & Storage’s warehouses at the Port of Kahului—at least for now. As bulldozers plow through the raw sugar, it falls through openings in the floor onto waiting conveyor belts that carry it to a ship’s hold for transport to California, where the raw sugar and molasses are further refined for distribution. The closing of HC&S will soon make a molehill out of that mountain.

dirt hasn’t existed long enough to develop much tilth. “So we would dribble [the nutrients] in the irrigation system. It doesn’t accumulate in the soil—though I wish it did.” Pyle also recalls working with the Soil Conservation Service, an agency of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to develop runoffcontrol ditches. “We resurveyed and recut those diversion ditches after every harvest. How many other farmers on Maui are doing this?” He’s growing some stands of cane in his yard, specimens of the original Hawaiian varieties that were staples of the diet before Western contact. “HC&S has been trying for twenty years to find an alternative crop. If they can’t come up with one, why on earth do the organic farmers think they can do it?” Those willing to prove Pyle wrong can take comfort in this comment from soil scientist and agronomist Mauricio Avila, who has worked extensively in Hawai‘i: “Organic certification only requires three years free of any products not certified organic. The soil has great capacity to decompose most chemicals used in agriculture.” In other words, cane soil can be converted to organic farming practices.

Where Will the Water Go?

Through its subsidiary East Maui Irrigation, A&B controls access to seventy-four miles of tunnels, ditches, inverted siphons, and flumes with a capacity of 455 million gallons of water per day. As it phased out cane, A&B restored water to seven East Maui streams—though not enough to quell complaints by environmental groups and taro farmers. “A lot of water will go back to the streams,” says Mayor Arakawa, who sees his office as a key player in the fluid but vital water game. He’s been negotiating with A&B to create a new 1,000-acre agricultural park where farmers can lease small plots to test central valley conditions. Other than that, Arakawa said last October, “We’re in a holding pattern. We have to determine what’s going to happen.”

Reaching out to Ranches

Ranching on cane land? HC&S has been quick to pursue the idea of irrigated, cropped pastureland where cattle can be “finished” in high style. Rick Volner says that the company is open to working with all the ranches. Maui Cattle Company, a partnership of six major island ranches, seems to be the pioneer—“seems,” because as of October the concept was still so new that Alex Franco, president of Maui Cattle Company, declined to make a statement. Volner was willing to mention “a few thousand acres” and “miles and miles of fencing” for starters. “As long as the land stays in productive agriculture,” he adds.

Fiber and Fuel

Last July, industrial hemp, though still federally banned, got a boost from the State of Hawai‘i. Senate’s Bill 2659 established a hemp pilot program for “academic and agricultural research.” Kelly King, cofounder and vice president of Pacific Biodiesel, is eager to grow this crop for its many uses, primarily fuel. But the Hawai‘i Department of Agriculture hasn’t yet established a permitting process. King isn’t waiting. Pacific Biodiesel, which began on Maui and is the oldest such company in the U.S., has been field-testing strains of sunflower that can take the wind and yield food, fuel, and fiber. “The biomass can be gasified into electricity using off-the-shelf technology,” she says. “[Sunflower] takes less than 25 percent of the water it takes to grow sugar, and it’s a 100-day crop [as opposed to two years for sugar].” Because HC&S hasn’t yet taken action on King’s proposals, her company plans to bring a demonstration crushing mill from its Big Island test-grounds and set it up on state land near Kahului Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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At the Port of Kahului, an elevated structure runs from Kahului Trucking & Storage’s warehouse to the moored vessel Moku Pahu. Inside the corrugated, covered structure, raw sugar moves along a large conveyor belt, which delivers it to the ship’s hold.

Airport. The concept of biofuels is certainly part of the current buzz, and King’s voice is respected on Maui—voters recently elected her to the South Maui seat on the county council, bumping incumbent Don Couch.

What about Development?

“Probably not in my lifetime,” Benjamin has said, referring to A&B’s agricultural land. Until the end of 2016, the company farmed about 36,000 acres. In 2009, A&B selected 27,104 of those acres for designation as Important Agricultural Lands (IAL). State law established the IAL designation, administered by the Department of Agriculture, in 2005 in hopes of keeping Hawai‘i’s most fertile soils in agriculture. Participation is voluntary, but the State provides tax credits and other incentives. A&B was the first landowner to petition for IAL status. “But,” says Arakawa, “A&B is a corporation, and like all corporations, it requires profits.” The acreage that A&B has not designated IAL lies along existing roads and towns and could perhaps be seen as a map for future development. “We are finding ways to maximize the benefits for them and for the community,” says Arakawa. “A&B has been a good partner.”

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Farming . . . Anyone?

“We don’t have enough farming,” says the mayor, who was raised in a farming family himself. “We need people to stay in the agricultural field to have a different economic engine [other than tourism].” He then lists all the ways that farming on Maui is horribly challenging— the regulations, the cost of everything including laborers and the land itself, and a myriad of farm-ruining pests. Invasive goats. Pheasants. And soon all American farms will become subject to new national food-safety laws that favor big, corporate-owned farms and put survival-threatening constraints on small-scale farmers. Gerry Ross, of Kupa‘a Farms, is a small-scale farmer and former earth-science researcher. He and his wife, Janet Simpson, inherited a depleted four-acre farm in Kula, and over thirteen years, have turned it into an organic ecosystem, thanks to Ross’s enthusiasm for soil health. (He has spoken at length with HC&S about large-scale composting systems that could transform the 27,000 tons of food waste generated on Maui each year.) He manages to operate in the black on those four acres by relying on local customers. He’s reluctant to lease former cane land only because he would live at such a distance from his fields. For a while he was eyeing twenty arable acres for sale


ISLAND ISSUES

HC&S will continue to farm. But under what name, and growing what? in Kula, but the price was a million bucks. He spent four years developing a garlic that customers swore was the best in the world, but even when he priced it at the cost of production, local stores wouldn’t buy it. “Maui-grown” doesn’t seem to divert many residents from Costco pricing. Yet Ross believes that “a lot of tourists would love to eat more island-grown food. They ask, ‘Where’s all the local produce?’”

Farm Big? Or Farm Small?

The Maui County Farm Bureau embraces all of Maui County’s ag ventures, from small-scale organics to the biotech company Monsanto. Warren Watanabe, the bureau’s president, has a lifetime of experience in Maui food production and is quick to note that we have fewer farms than twenty years ago, and that the median age of Maui’s farmers is somewhere in the sixties. To create any semblance of economically significant agriculture, he feels, will require relatively large, monocropped farms, 100 to 1,000 acres, and the application of chemical fertilizers and “crop protection”—a euphemism for pesticides. These farms need to produce single crops “at a reasonable cost that people will buy. America is used to cheap agricultural products.” For Watanabe, the future requires a statewide vision. “You cannot focus on one island. You cannot have O‘ahu farmers competing with Big Island farmers.” And farmers have to focus on specialty crops, not general nutrition. “I’m sorry, but you’re not going to fill 27,000 acres with vegetables.” By contrast, the Hawai‘i Farmers Union United

believes in (quoting their website) “a multitude of smallholder diversified farms” that favor “eco-logical techniques.” James Simpliciano of Lahaina is president of one of HFUU’s three Maui chapters. He envisions a quilt of microfarms, each with a niche. “The future looks bright,” he says. “Buy local, eat as much local as possible . . . this changes your lifestyle and your health.” Though he’s not opposed to fertilizer, he says, “We must understand how the [pre-Contact] Hawaiians did. They never imported, and they fed a million people. We need to practice an indigenous way of farming—keep the soil healthy, do not till, keep the top seven inches alive. The [consumer] is in the movement now, as we have more and more farmers markets and food entrepreneurs.”

Uncertainty

Teena Rasmussen, director of the county’s Office of Economic Development, has been farming on Maui for thirty-five years. “You get really emotional about [sugar’s demise] if you’ve lived here all your life. People don’t know what that took, to last 140 years. I have nothing but respect for HC&S. Honestly, Maui will never be the same.” She says, “We’ve been incredibly lucky—and we have a fabulous tourist industry. But it would be good to have a backup industry if it were to take a heavy hit. Now 70 percent of our jobs depend on tourism. That puts us in a very vulnerable place.” Then she states the one sure thing: “Maui is in transition.”

Steam drifting from Pu‘unēnē Mill used to let Mauians know which way the wind was blowing. What happens when the last harvest is processed and the smokestacks grow cold? Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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HAWAIIAN SOUL

Links of Two queens, on islands half a world apart, inspired a tradition more than a century old.

JOHN GIORDANI

Story by Lehia Apana

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HAWAI‘I STATE ARCHIVES

Gold

This 1862 portrait of Lydia Kamaka‘eha Pākī, who would become Queen Lili‘uokalani, shows the twenty-three-year-old princess in traveling attire, wearing her beloved gold bracelets. Opposite: More than 150 years later, Ekela Kaniaupio-Crozier, a Hawaiian protocol facilitator with Kamehameha Schools Maui, continues the tradition with her own heirloom bracelets, including two given to her by former students. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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For the past three decades, Sissy Lake-Farm has faithfully donned a single gold bracelet inscribed with her Hawaiian name: Kahakuhaupiokamakani. The bangle has become an appendage that encircles her wrist, no matter the occasion. Known as Hawaiian heirloom jewelry, this type of bracelet is an anomaly of sorts: it is almost always made of gold—which, like other metals, didn’t exist in pre-Contact Hawai‘i—and, along with botanic motifs, is engraved in black enameled letters written in an Old English font. Nevertheless, for Sissy’s and many other local families, this is the gift that marks special occasions like a graduation, wedding, or childbirth. Sissy’s connection with her Hawaiian bracelet began when she was twelve years old, when her mother promised it to her upon her high school graduation, with some stipulations. “She told me I couldn’t get pregnant, and that I had to graduate high school with the intention of going to college,” says Sissy. “Certain kuleana [responsibilities] come with this makana [gift], and when I received my Hawaiian bracelet, it was like a right of passage.” Sissy’s mother paid for the bracelet on installment, visiting the jeweler every few weeks. Once purchased, the piece was secured in a bank safe-deposit box, to be released on just two occasions before graduation: Sissy’s junior and senior proms. Sissy’s mother and aunt had received their Hawaiian bracelets from her grandparents in similar fashion, and it’s a custom she will continue with her own daughter.

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“My mother always told me that she doesn’t intend to go to the grave with her bracelet. It will become mine, then it will become my daughter’s,” she says. “I feel when I wear it, I am holding a place for my kūpuna [ancestors] on my person.” There’s an expectation that Hawaiian jewelry is an heirloom to be passed down, says Paul Sato, vice president of sales at Na Hoku—the oldest and largest fine-jewelry manufacturer in Hawai‘i. Even if you purchase a bracelet for yourself, he notes, “you are the custodian or steward of the jewelry for the time that you own it. Eventually it will go to other members of the ‘ohana [family]. “Because of the symbolic nature of this jewelry, it’s not uncommon to see women with multiple Hawaiian heirloom bracelets,” Paul adds. “Go to any local grocery store and just count how many heirloom bracelets are on the arms of the women at the checkout counter.” Just how did so foreign an adornment take root in Hawaiian tradition? There are varying stories, but O‘ahu-based jeweler Philip Rickard offers a compelling version. In his book, Hawaiian Heirloom Jewelry: A Lasting Remembrance, Rickard traces the tradition to nineteenthcentury England. Following the death of Prince Albert in 1861, a heartbroken nation, led by Albert’s widow, Queen Victoria, popularized gold enameled “mourning jewelry” to express their anguish. News of Albert’s death left an impression on the Hawaiian kingdom, which, despite a considerable geographical distance, had formed strong allegiances with Britain. Rickard writes that Hawai‘i’s Lili‘uokalani had several bangles made for herself around the time of

LEFT: JOHN GIORDANI; RIGHT: HAWAI‘I STATE ARCHIVES

Left: Sissy Lake-Farm has been wearing a gold heirloom bracelet since she graduated from college in 1987. It’s a gift from her parents that her own daughter will inherit one day. Above: In 1887, Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee brought heads of state to London from around the world, including Queen Kapi‘olani (seated) and Princess Lili‘uokalani.


HAWAIIAN SOUL

TOP LEFT: HAWAI‘I STATE ARCHIVES; RIGHT (4): COURTESY OF NA HOKU

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3 Top: In this photo from the 1880s, Lili‘uokalani wears, amid other finery, a gold anchor link given to her by Queen Victoria’s son Prince Alfred in appreciation for her hospitality during his visit to Hawai‘i. Above: The unexpected death of Prince Albert, Alfred’s father, in 1861 sent the widowed Victoria into deep depression. For nearly three years, she allowed only mourning attire and black-accented jewelry at court, and wore black exclusively for the remaining forty years of her life. 1. Na Hoku still crafts Hawaiian heirloom bracelets by hand, a process that begins with engraving the text into unadorned 14K gold. 2. Na Hoku’s artisans use no templates, and employ only traditional tools to carve motifs like this plumeria pattern. 3. This heirloom piece awaits its final touch: the black enameling that traditionally embellishes the wearer’s name.

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4. Depending on the size and style, Hawaiian heirloom bracelets can range in price from a few hundred dollars to several thousand. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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Prince Albert’s death, including one that was etched with the words “Hoomanao Mau” (“Lasting Remembrance”). Rickard theorizes that Lili‘uokalani recognized a kindred spirit in England’s grieving queen. “It is likely Hawaiian mourning jewelry embodied the young chiefess’ own sense of family, which Hawaiian culture shared with Queen Victoria. . . .” Several commissioned pieces followed, and Lili‘uokalani, who became Hawai‘i’s queen in 1891, eventually began giving the jewelry to relatives and loved ones. One of the first recipients was Zoe Atkinson, a headmistress and socialite who helped plan royal galas for the queen. The chillingly prophetic words “Aloha Oe” (“Farewell to Thee”)—also the title of the Queen’s famous song—were enameled onto the bangle; the inside inscription noted the date: “Liliuokalani Jan. 5 ‘93.” Just twelve days later, the monarchy would be abolished. On January 17, 1893, a group of American businessmen and sugar planters forced Queen Lili‘uokalani to abdicate her throne. According to Rickard, the popularity of gold enameled bracelets surged following the overthrow, perhaps worn to express a people’s grief. “Where fashion once followed politics in Great Britain, so did it now among the women of Honolulu,” write Rickard. Today the bracelets have become a symbol of Hawaiian history and a loving tradition connecting generations. Maelia Loebenstein Carter will never forget the story of her greatgrandfather’s marriage proposal to her great grandmother.

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“Albert Loebenstein was a German immigrant who came to Hawai‘i around the late 1800s,” explains Maelia. “He later became a part of the Hawai‘i Territorial Legislature, and the story goes that whenever he would sign the bills, instead of writing his signature, he would write, ‘If not why not.’” When Albert proposed to Maelia’s great-grandmother Mary Kaliko Spencer, he handed her not a ring, but a gold bracelet embellished with those same four words. Maelia’s grandfather proposed to her grandmother Mae Loebenstein with that same bracelet, later engraving it with the date of his proposal—which was also her twentieth birthday: May 9, 1931. Today it adorns Maelia’s wrist. “My grandmother wore it for over sixty years,” says Maelia. “I always feel a little closer to her and my great-grandmother when I wear it.” Ekela Kaniaupio-Crozier recalls her older sister receiving a Hawaiian bracelet upon graduating from college. “My dad told me, ‘When you graduate from college, you’ll get a bracelet, too.’” As a young girl, she’d peer into the window displays at the former Security Diamond at Honolulu’s Ala Moana Center. “I remember walking by it all the time and looking at the bracelets and thinking, ‘I’m going to own one of those someday,’” she says. When Ekela was nineteen years old, her dad passed away. She quietly figured that his promise of a Hawaiian bracelet was gone, too. At her college graduation a few years later, her mother and brother presented her with a Hawaiian bracelet inscribed with her last name. “I was shocked,” says Ekela. “They told me that my father would want me to have one, and that took me right back to when I was a little girl.” That bracelet now belongs to Ekela’s daughter Kaleialoha. It’s been around 150 years since Queen Lili‘uokalani donned her trendsetting gold bracelets, inspiring what would become one of Hawai‘i’s most treasured traditions. Today, these heirloom pieces are delicate time capsules, holding in them the history of Hawai‘i and the memories of each wearer. “As Hawaiians, our mo‘olelo [stories] are so important,” says Maelia. “With heirloom jewelry, the mo‘olelo live on in each piece.”

LEFT: JOHN GIORDANI; RIGHT: MAELIA LOEBENSTEIN CARTER

Left: “I rarely take [my bracelets] off, and if I do, they’re never out of my sight,” says Ekela Kaniaupio-Crozier. Above: Most Hawaiian bracelets produced today are engraved with a person’s name. Maelia Loebenstein Carter says the “IF NOT WHY NOT” inscription on one of her bracelets attracts curiosity from observers. The story behind that piece traces back to her great-grandparents.


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SPHERES OF INFLUENCE Who needs the moon and stars, when you have at hand an ocean treasure: a South Sea or golden pearl that’s set in a ring of 18K yellow or white gold, floating on a sea of diamonds. Price on request at Greenleaf Diamonds in The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., 874-1118; GreenleafDiamonds.com

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TOP OF THE LINE Timelessly stylish, the Irina handbag is made of imported Italian patent leather and crafted by skilled artisans in the USA. $1,290, by and at Martin & MacArthur in The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., 891-8844, MartinAndMacArthur.com

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HEARTS OF GOLD Encircling diamonds and heart-shaped prongs hold a square-cut 17mm amethyst in Lisa Nik’s 18K rose-gold ring. Price on request at Baron & Leeds in Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-6806; and in The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., 874-4900

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AN EYE FOR COLOR Huda Beauty’s eyeshadow kit features pigmented mattes, chrome pressed pearls, and 3D metal shades in an exclusive Rose Gold Edition. $65 at Sephora in Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., 667-2545, Sephora.com

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HEALTH & WELLNESS

d e r e p m Pa e s i d a r in Pa ILLUSTRATION

S BY ERIN MAK

AI

FAIRMONT KEA LANI

A good spa can transport you. The finest do so while remaining rooted in their surroundings. Using Maui as inspiration—from locally sourced ingredients to a massage performed in the ocean—these treatments will have you drifting away like an island breeze.

The epitome of island TLC: Luxuriating in an outdoor massage at Fairmont Kea Lani’s Willow Stream Spa. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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THE TREATMENT: Honey Macadamia Nut Indulgence | Spa Grande at Grand Wailea | GrandWailea.com/experience/spa WHAT IT INCLUDES: This buzz-worthy treatment dips into nature’s pharmacy, incorporating the healing powers of raw honey for a truly natural glow. It begins with a full body massage using an elixir of coconut oil and honey from apiaries in Hāna. A propolis sheath—created by bees and rich in antioxidants and omega fatty acids—is smoothed onto the skin. A warm towel enhances absorption, while a macadamia-nut foot scrub tops off this deliciously decadent session. A FIX FOR: With its deeply hydrating properties, this sweet treatment is the remedy Women’s whirlpool at Spa Grande for thirsty, sun-stressed skin. THE PERKS: Opulent décor, bountiful amenities and first-class service are hallmarks of this aptly named spa. With forty treatment rooms and a labyrinth of therapy stations spanning the 50,000-square-foot venue, it’s worth arriving early and staying late. Borrowing from the Hawaiian concept of ahupua‘a (climatic division of land), the “Healing Waters of Maui” hydrotherapy circuit invites guests to experience every step of the water journey. Five nutrient-rich baths mimic clouds, waterfalls, streams, rainforest and ocean, and were meticulously crafted by the spa director and other wellness professionals, who visited each region to ensure that what you experience at the spa is what you feel in nature. NICE SURPRISE: Spa attendants offer complimentary scrub downs to slough away “Healing Waters of Maui” hydrotherapy dead skin cells and stimulate the senses before each treatment. Guests can also request a free skin analysis that uses a special lamp to detect your skin’s hydration levels, signs of aging and oil production. WHY WE LOVE IT: Raise your hand if the best part of any salon visit is the precut hair wash. (Okay, you can put your hand down now.) I was slightly bewildered when the therapist asked if I’d like a scalp massage; apparently, there are the odd few who decline this service—oh, the travesty! With each stroke and gentle knead, it’s as if a week’s worth of stress, to-do lists and deadlines were being extracted straight through my noggin. THE COST: $245 (Sunday–Thursday), $265 (Friday–Saturday) for 80 minutes—Lehia Apana

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BOTTOM (2): GRAND WAILEA RESORT & SPA

Bee Here Now


THE TREATMENT: Body Polish with Island Bamboo and Ginger | Spa Montage, Kapalua | MontageHotels.com/SpaMontage/KapaluaBay WHAT IT INCLUDES: I rarely spend time tending to my skin, and I’d venture to guess the same goes for most men. Don’t fret, guys; Spa Montage has your back when it comes to buffing out your dry, dead outer shell. This treatment employs natural exfoliants like papaya and pineapple enzymes that dissolve dulling surface cells, and green algae that nourishes and detoxifies. Bamboo and jojoba beads exfoliate sustainably—no plastic microbeads to wreak havoc on our ocean life. After I rinsed in the well-appointed shower, the massage therapist applied a ginger body oil by Kerstin Florian for luxurious hydration. The scent of ginger had me floating high on Hawaiian forest mists. Aromatherapy at its finest. A FIX FOR: If you’re feeling like your skin is looking dull and losing its youthful glow, this treatment will make it blush again. THE PERKS: The Spa Montage is truly a one-of-a-kind on the island. It’s a building unto itself, where you can easily spend an entire day. I’ll start with the coed areas—a large saltwater pool with complimentary sunscreen, cucumber water and magazines at the ready; a wellstocked fitness room; and a lounge offering soothing refreshments and delicious bites. The men’s locker area is cavernous and features a heated waterfall plunge pool, open-air cool-down shower, sauna, steam room, and sink vanities appointed with more than the usual soap, lotion and deodorant. Think barbershop. Speaking of barbershops, I splurged on a hot shave and haircut in the vintage-style men’s salon. Daniela is a licensed barber (didn’t even know that was a thing) ready to lather you up and trim those whiskers, all to the sounds of Ol’ Blue Eyes (she has other options like Elvis or Otis, if Frank Sinatra isn’t your bag). Ladies, this would be an excellent gift for the man in your life. Also good for grooms and groomsmen to get camera-ready for the big day. The multiple applications of organic OM4Men lotions at different stages left my face feeling reborn. NICE SURPRISE: All natural, high-quality ingredients in the lotions and oils make this a winner. The tropical-fruit enzymes and ginger-scented finish are an endearing nod to our island home. WHY WE LOVE IT: Asked whether the temperature of the massage table was okay, my first reaction was to spartan up and say, “It’s fine.” Happily, my inner hedonist spoke up and requested more pampering. The warm results had me melting into the table. Definitely a more enveloping experience. THE COST: $210 for 60 minutes. This treatment can be conducted indoors or in an open-air hale (structure). The spa also offers polishes using sea minerals and exotic salts, or lavender and minerals.—John Giordani

A Manly

Glow

BOTTOM (2): MONTAGE KAPALUA BAY

Outdoor massage hale at Spa Montage

Men’s whirlpool hot tub Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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HEALTH & WELLNESS

THE TREATMENT: ‘Awa Remedy | Willow Stream Spa, Fairmont Kea Lani | WillowStreamSpaMaui.com WHAT IT INCLUDES: Blissfully zoned-out, I lost track of all the stages of this multilayered treatment. Noelle, who administered my remedy, also had a hand in creating this experience. She started with a very satisfying Maui sugar and citrus scrub, followed by the ‘awa and aloe body mask to relieve tension and muscle stress while also detoxifying the skin. After swaddling me in warm towels from neck to toe, Noelle gently massaged a cooling kukui-nut oil to my face, then worked on my scalp while coating my hair in an ‘awapuhi (shampoo ginger) mask. The scent of the rainforest swirled around my nostrils, as though I were on a deep jungle trek. Feeling like a satiated glazed doughnut, I showered off and returned to the table for Noelle to apply the finishing touch: a massage with Maui vanilla-bean dry oil. Dry oil, you say? Let me explain. The main ingredient is fractionated coconut oil that is formulated to be easily absorbed and not leave a greasy feeling on the skin. The smells of lemongrass and bergamot, combined with the vanilla, had me drifting back to memories of orange Heated-tile loungers in the men’s Creamsicles in summer. My skin felt so good, I couldn’t stop touching it. spa—and yes, they’re comfortable. A FIX FOR: Inspired by the Makahiki season of ancient Hawai‘i, and the herbs and tonics warriors used to relieve bodily tension, this treatment delivered in spades. Like any self-respecting warrior in unfamiliar territory, I was wary about lowering my defenses. But by the end, the tension and aches of life’s battles were gone, and I was ready to take on the world—or at least a weekend full of yard work. THE PERKS: The spa is generous in amenities for the male of the species: a men’sonly lounge with big-screen TV, steam room, sauna, and heated-tile loungers. Ever wonder what it would be like to go through a car wash sans car? Try out the power shower, a refreshing way to rinse off without soaping away the nourishing oils from Not into man caves? Relax in your treatment (just be sure to pat dry). The adjacent rainfall shower is a refreshing Willow Stream’s coed lounge. cooldown and welcome relief for overtanned hides. The coed lounge offers refreshments designed to detox, de-stress, digest . . . and make one want to linger. NICE SURPRISE: Great value for such a high-quality and lengthy treatment. WHY WE LOVE IT: Have you ever had an itch in the middle of your back, and once you found a back scratcher to attend to it, the relief was enough to make you melt? That’s what the sugar scrub felt like, but all over my body. I was afraid it was going to feel abrasive, but I couldn’t get enough—which is usually the case when it comes to me and sugar. And this treat was calorie free. THE COST: $215 for 90 minutes—John Giordani

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BOTTOM (2): FAIRMONT KEA LANI RESORT & SPA

A Win for the Weekend Warrior


Rock On

Choose your relaxation mode: the women’s lounge . . . or women’s whirlpool at the RitzCarlton Spa

THE TREATMENT: Lomi ‘Ili‘ili Massage | The Ritz-Carlton Spa, Kapalua | RitzCarlton.com/en/hotels/kapalua-maui/spa

TOP (2): RITZ-CARLTON KAPALUA

WHAT IT INCLUDES: ‘Ili‘ili is a Hawaiian word for the small stones dancers use like castanets in hula. But here, the massage therapist heats the round, smooth stones to a comfortable temperature, and slides them across your skin in fluid strokes, choreographing a state of relaxation as the penetrating warmth reaches deep into your joints and muscles. A FIX FOR: Anyone who yearns for total relaxation THE PERKS: The spa experience begins as soon as you arrive: A host greets you, gives you a tour of the facilities, and makes sure you’re comfortable before your treatment. Afterward, stick around and cool down in a bamboo rain shower or indulge in one of the spa’s heated whirlpools, the eucalyptus-infused steam room or dry cedar sauna. There’s also an open-air relaxation lounge, saline lap pool and whirlpool in a taro garden. WHY WE LOVE IT: What’s not to love? When Trish, my massage therapist, gently placed the warm stones along my spine and in the palms of my hands, every last ounce of tension melted away and I felt a pervading calm. She also gave my lower back—sore from too many hours sitting in front of the computer—some extra TLC. THE COST: $195 for 50 minutes—Sarah Ruppenthal

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Molten Bliss

THE TREATMENT: Volcanic Detox Wrap at Kamaha‘o Spa | Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa | Maui.Regency.Hyatt.com WHAT IT INCLUDES: A detox wrap followed by a hot-stone and warm-oil massage. Detox clay—a mixture of Kaua‘i and bentonite clay, turmeric, aloe, ‘awa, awapuhi (shampoo ginger), blue-green algae and noni fruit—is gently applied to exfoliated skin, from the shoulders to the ankles. Hot packs filled with lavender and flaxseed go on top of the body clay to help it do its detoxifying magic. Like its volcano namesake, this treatment employs heat to release what lies beneath the surface. So be sure to drink plenty of water and

stick to nonalcoholic beverages afterward, advises esthetician Brenda Szymczyk. “Detoxing can cause headaches, dehydration or loss of appetite. It’s really important to listen to your body after this treatment.” I followed Brenda’s instructions to the letter, and the next day, I not only felt refreshed, but my skin was luminous. A FIX FOR: Anyone looking to relax and ditch some toxins—or counter the effects of overindulgence. (Not appropriate for pregnant women or anyone with a sunburn, high blood pressure or claustrophobia.) THE PERKS: Before or after your treatment, unwind in the spa’s Jacuzzi, steam room or sauna. Or head to the open-air relaxation room, curl up in a chaise lounge and soak up the ocean views. WHY WE LOVE IT: As if being cocooned in layers of warmth weren’t luxurious enough, Brenda treated me to a foot, face and scalp massage after I’d showered off the clay mixture. THE COST: $195 for 75 minutes—Sarah Ruppenthal

LEFT (2): MIEKO HORIKOSHI; RIGHT: HYATT REGENCY RESORT & SPA

Top, left to right: Mere steps from the beach, Kamaha‘o is officially a Marilyn Monroe spa—and the movie icon makes her presence known. The coed lounge comes complete with an endless ocean view.

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HEALTH & WELLNESS

BOTTOM (2): FOUR SEASONS MAUI

Float Your Troubles Away THE TREATMENT: Wai Vari Massage | The Spa at Four Seasons gently manipulate my spine, neck, legs and feet. My body swayed Resort Maui | FourSeasons.com/Maui and seemed to stretch a little further with each rise and fall of the WHAT IT INCLUDES: This weightless massage takes place entirely ocean swell. Little knots that had bothered me for years melted in the water; choose the ocean or the tranquil Four Seasons fresh- away. I lost all sense of time, literally floating my cares away. water pool. A wetsuit is included to keep you warm and comfy, When our session was over, and my feet once again trod earth, I and your therapist will personally escort you to the beach or pool. felt a little dizzy. Rob led me to a chaise lounge on the beach. After Warm sun on your face, a gentle support under your neck and back, I peeled off the wetsuit, he covered me with a warm beach towel, the salt scent of ocean and comforting sounds of gently breaking gave me a cool glass of water, and left me to relax and recover. It waves. . . . Talk about an immersive experience in relaxation! was quite a while before I joined the world again, renewed. A FIX FOR: Whatever ails you. Wai Vari awakens and opens energy WHY WE LOVE IT: It’s a big, busy world out there—a little pamperpaths, and gently realigns the body. And those little aches and ing goes a long way in reminding your body just how much you pains of daily life? Voila—gone! appreciate it. And no place does it better than Four Seasons. THE PERKS: Well, it is the Four Seasons. I recommend arriving the THE COST: $135 for 25 minutes, but because this treatment leaves day before. I did, and spent the afternoon exploring the amenities you so utterly relaxed, allow yourself an added 30 minutes to bask of the spa and indulging in the E Ola Hou (Hawaiian Healing Wrap— in the sun and/or warm you bones in the hot tub.—Diane Haynes wonderful!). Next morning, wake early; the Wai Vari treatment begins Woodburn at 8 a.m. I promise, it’s worth it. Later You’ll find Mother Nature’s hydrotherapy at All ye who crave pampering, enter here. you can spend the day like Cleopatra the beach below Four Seasons in Wailea. on the Nile: just book a cabana at the serenity pool. NICE SURPISE: My therapist, Rob Rice, suggested we venture into the ocean, as the morning was still and the ocean serene. He made sure I was comfortable and floating easily with the aid of a neck pillow. (The wetsuit also aids floatation.) He began to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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I have been a glass artist for 51 years, and do all facets of custom glassblowing. My specialty is lighting—chandeliers, wall sconces, pendant and tabletop accessories—and I work with fabricators in metal to design and manufacture complete, custom applications. I am always seeking new opportunities to create artistic glass for residences, restaurants and other hospitality venues. Please check my website and let me know if I can help you and/or your clients enjoy the magic of creative glasswork. Aloha, Rick Strini


Escape to Polynesia Inspired by ancient traditions, the Polynesian Ritual at Spa Helani, a Heavenly Spa by WestinTM will transport you to a blissful state of relaxation. This signature experience engages all five of the senses and includes a coconut shell, white sand and Tahitian vanilla body scrub, followed by slow and powerful massage incorporating sand pouches and golden monoi oil to deeply relax the muscles. 80 minutes, $250* 110 minutes, $300* For more information or to make a reservation, call Spa Helani at 808.662.2644 or visit westinkaanapali.com/spa Open daily, 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM

6 Kai Ala Drive, Kā‘anapali, Maui *Price excludes service charge and tax. ©2016 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. MAE – 2351

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GOLF

On the Upswing Head Pro Sutee Nitakorn gives the shaka sign, islandstyle approval for Kā‘anapali Golf Courses’ most fun form of transport.

A centuries-old sport gets a technological upgrade.

When Kapalua Golf Academy’s PGA Director of Instruction Ben Hongo turned pro twenty-six years ago, he never imagined there would be a portable device that could measure the trajectory of a golf ball in real time. Today, he uses that technology to help his students improve their swing. Golf as we know it originated in fifteenth-century Scotland—and it’s come a long way since then. “The technology is moving so fast,” Hongo says. “I don’t know what’s next, but I know it’s going to be cool.” Here’s a look at a few of the game-changing technologies available at some of Maui’s golf courses.

Kā‘anapali Golf Courses “Wait a sec, what’s that?” It’s a question PGA Head Golf Professional Sutee Nitakorn hears whenever newcomers spot the eight GolfBoards in the golf-cart staging area. Kā‘anapali’s is the only public course on Maui to offer the GolfBoard, a cross between a golf cart and a skateboard. It’s fun, functional and hard to resist. “A lot of people trade in their carts at the last minute,” Nitakorn says. After a six-minute video tutorial, players step onboard and head off to the first hole. “When you’re cruising across the course on one of these, it’s not just golf anymore,” Nitakorn says. “It’s one of the most fun ways to enjoy the game.” Prefer to stick to a cart? Kā‘anapali’s are GPS-equipped, with monitors that not only help golfers find their way around, but also keep score (scores can be emailed or texted to you when you’re done), show the layout of each hole, and give distances to bunkers and hazards. Inside the pro shop, you’ll find a few technological upgrades designed to keep golfers cool and comfortable out on the course. There’s SPF sun-protective clothing, sunglasses that can fine-tune

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individual wavelengths of color, and “cool towels” that, when soaked in water, keep the wearer cool for hours. KaanapaliGolfCourses.com, 866-454-4653

Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, Manele Golf Course GolfBoards have landed on the island of Lāna‘i—Manele Golf Course has four, and reservations are required. Before you head to the first hole, get fitted with a custom club. Manele’s TrackMan fitting software tracks the way a golf ball travels when struck by a particular club, which helps you determine the best tool for your game. A second TrackMan device uses Doppler radar to display the speed and distance of each shot; it captures and analyzes twenty-six data points, including ball spin and angles of the club at impact. If it sounds like rocket science, you’re partially right. The technology was designed to help the military track rockets and missiles. Now it’s helping players improve their game. FourSeasons.com/Lanai, 808-565-4000 Invisible assistance: TrackMan technology on Lāna‘i’s Manele Course can analyze the speed, spin and distance of your shots and fit you with the best club for the conditions and the way you play.

TOP: KYLE ELLISON; BOTTOM: FOUR SEASONS HOTELS LIMITED

STORY BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL


808.877.7893 On Maui’s North Shore 48 Nonohe Place, Spreckelsville | MauiCountryClub.org

Where family and friends come to play

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Kapalua’s Ben Hongo (right) uses video analysis to help players observe and improve their game.

Kapalua Golf & Tennis If you blink, you might miss the small grayand-orange box on Kapalua Golf’s Plantation Course. The TrackMan launch monitor has become a staple for the pros, and for good reason, says Ben Hongo. “It tracks what the club and the ball are doing in 3D and quantifies what we feel and see.” As if that weren’t impressive enough, the TrackMan software also “normalizes” weather conditions. “On a windy day, it will tell us what the ball would have done with-

The pro shop at Wailea’s Gold & Emerald Clubhouse has technology you can wear: golf clothes that keep you cool, wick away sweat, and save your skin from the sun.

out the wind,” Hongo says. It’s also a game changer for club fitting. “We used to give our best guesstimate [on whether] the club is right for you,” Hongo says. “Not anymore.” At the Kapalua Golf Academy, Hongo uses coaching apps like Edufii and Hudl to connect with his students after they leave Kapalua. Students can also get a custom video lesson or digital video swing analysis, both of which can be emailed or texted to them to review at any time. The course also has golf carts with

touchscreen GPS displays that eliminate the guesswork by giving hole layouts and precise yardages. There’s even a charger for your smartphone, so you can check email, upload photos to Instagram, or play music while you’re out on the greens. GolfAt Kapalua.com, 808-669-8044

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LEFT: © 2015 DAVE SANSOM PHOTOGRAPHY; RIGHT: WAILEA GOLF CLUB / ARTIN AHMADI

GOLF


three courses at all times with the help of GPS. “We always have eyes on the course,” says Jennifer McNally, the club’s director of sales and marketing. Large monitors in the pro shops and at the starting desks track every cart on the course, as well as the pace of play. If a cart is behind schedule, roving player’s assistants spring into action and maneuver next-in-line golfers to a different hole to keep the momentum going. Proactive troubleshooting makes the game more enjoyable for everyone, McNally says. With eye-level GPS screens in their carts, players get a great visual of the course, as well as helpful tools—hazard warnings, hole layouts and yardages— that give them more confidence in their decision-making. In addition, the carts have interactive, touchscreen features; golfers can request assistance, indicate they are looking for the beverage cart, and receive weather and other alerts. To keep players cool and safe in the sun, both pro shops sell moisture-wicking, sunprotective clothing with four-way stretch technology. “Our motto is: look good, feel good, play good,” McNally says. WaileaGolf. com, 808-875-5114

The Dunes at Maui Lani Golf Course Not long ago, Garrett Okamura, the director of golf at The Dunes, would rely on his visual memory to dispense constructive feedback to his students. Now he uses an iPad and the V1 mobile golf app when giving a lesson. “I take a snapshot of the swing and then slow it down frame by frame,” he explains. “It’s an incredibly helpful tool.” Last year, The Dunes rolled out its first fleet of GPS-equipped golf carts, which help players navigate the expansive course more easily. “The course is spread out over a lot of terrain,” Okamura says. “The GPS definitely makes the game more fast-moving.” Dunes AtMauiLani.com, 808-873-0422

Maui Country Club Golfers at this members-only club know the nine-hole course, so there’s no need for GPS, says Golf Pro Mark Shimamura, who also manages the pro shop. There you’ll find the Mizuno custom club-fitting system, which matches players with the best club for their swing. Members and their guests can also purchase sun-protective clothing and “Coolcore” caps that keep one’s head up to 30 percent cooler. MauiCountryClub.org, 808-877-7893 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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VVe Ironwood trees create privacy without hampering the view at this West Maui home built for sharing. Along with a whirlpool spa and infinity pool, there’s plenty of room on the deck to watch for green sea turtles cruising offshore.

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lc ome AT HOME

Sometimes the greatest luxury is having room for all your friends. POOL

TRAVIS ROWAN / LIVING MAUI MEDIA

STORY BY HEIDI

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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BOTTOM: TRAVIS ROWAN / LIVING MAUI MEDIA

Architect Jim LeCron worked with the state’s Department of Land and Natural Resources for permission to site the home where it best takes advantage of its oceanfront setting.

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AT HOME

Top left: Sapele-wood cabinetry lends warmth and beauty to a kitchen designed for cooks who love company. (The beveled edges required a special saw.) A wood-and-frosted-glass door in the hall leads to the butler’s pantry. Above: A stone-and-wood foot bridge traverses a water garden stocked with koi, creating a Zen-like passage to the home’s front door.

When construction on their vacation home in Kahana was complete, Jim LeCron and Karen Arri-LeCron held a sunset celebration with a blessing by a Hawaiian cultural practitioner. “Just after he blew the pū [conch], a humpback whale breached in the bay right in front of us,” says Karen. “Everyone’s jaw dropped; it was a completely surreal moment. The kahuna [priest] told us the whale was a sign of good things to come.” Two years prior to that chicken-skin moment, the husband-and-wife architects from Santa Barbara, California, had happened upon the thenvacant lot while visiting West Maui with friends. It was located on a quiet cul-de-sac, smack-dab on a sleepy bay with an unobstructed view of the ocean and neighboring Moloka‘i. Jim and Karen knew right away they’d found the ideal place to build a vacation home. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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Top: Stone pillars twenty-five feet high frame the great room’s unobstructed ocean view. Left: Solid cherrywood ceiling fans, seen here from the mezzanine level, circulate the trade winds, cooling the home. Between the ceiling’s open beams, tatami matting adds texture. Above: Three of the home’s four bedroom suites open to ocean views. Lower left: The lava rocks enclosing the spa were quarried at Ulupalakua Ranch in Upcountry Maui.

“We’d been visiting Maui for many years, but were looking for an alternative to staying at hotels,” says Jim. “Karen and I have designed vacation homes all over the world.” It took two years to build their 6,200-square-foot “miniresort,” which can accommodate twelve people in its four bedroom suites, a “flex” suite that contains a Murphy bed, and a guest room in the attached ‘ohana (separate living quarters). “Each suite has a coffee maker and refrigerator, so it’s like you’re staying in a high-end hotel,” says Jim. The home’s design includes a central great room, similar to a hotel lobby, where guests can gather. Upstairs, a mezzanine featuring three curved, cantilevered balconies provides additional conversation areas and even a game

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ALL EXCEPT BEDROOM: TRAVIS ROWAN / LIVING MAUI MEDIA

AT HOME



AT HOME

Left: An L-shaped counter sits at bar height in the kitchen. Lit by candles, the dining table beyond accommodates twelve beneath a canopy of open beams. “We used a dropped ceiling to give the dining area a more intimate feeling,” says Jim. Above: The master bathroom’s infinity-edged tub features a waterfall that originates from above.

room. “We wanted every square inch of the house to be usable,” Karen explains. “So instead of the mezzanine being simply a passthrough to the upstairs bedrooms, we made it a place for guests to relax while enjoying the view.” That view is why the back of the house is entirely glass, with each section separated by stone pillars constructed with blue rock quarried from the property. “The windows on the lower floor are pocketed doors that open up completely to take advantage of the trade winds,” Jim says. Initially, the couple was concerned that those trade winds might be too strong. “But by making the home two stories, with fixed upper-level windows, the wind is less pervasive on the lower level,” he explains. “It funnels upward over the house.” WIN A DREAM TRIP TO MAUI!

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AT HOME

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“We also had to take the wind into account when designing the infinity pool,” adds Karen. “We wanted to make sure the water doesn’t blow towards the house. We worked with Maui Waterscapes to get the height just right to mitigate the wind, yet have the pool blend seamlessly with the ocean.” Jim and Karen designed the kitchen and dining areas with entertaining in mind. “The primary kitchen is open, with bar seating, so whoever is preparing the meal can interact with their guests,” Jim says. They also designed a smaller butler’s pantry with an exterior entrance, to make it easier to have meals catered by a private chef. The two architects characterize the home as Modern Pacific Rim—which, in addition to clean, assertive lines, typically includes protection from the sun. But “since this lot faces north, it wasn’t necessary to have a low roofline, broad overhangs, and a covered lānai,” says Jim.


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SECOND FROM TOP: TRAVIS ROWAN / LIVING MAUI MEDIA

Top: Upstairs, guest suites feature flooring of solid Brazilian mahogany; glass-enclosed lānai make the most of the ocean view. Above: Palm trees sway in the breeze. Persistent trade winds are an elemental force that figured into the home’s design.

Inside, generous use of wood and stone tames the bold, rectilinear geometry, and contributes a warmth and human scale that ties the home to nature. “Contemporary architecture can be sterile,” Jim says. “Liberal use of sapele wood, with its prominent grain, as well as travertine and blue rock, makes the house modern, yet tactile and friendly at the same time.” The great room’s three rounded, glassenclosed balconies also soften the home’s straight lines. “The curvature adds architectural interest, and lends a dynamic character to the room,” Karen explains. “We view the balconies as a metaphor for the shoreline,” adds Jim. “They’re sensuous and organic.” They also believe that incorporating as Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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AT HOME

many indigenous elements as possible gives a vacation home a solid sense of place. “We designed a house in Lake Tahoe around a granite boulder that sat in the middle of the lot,” says Karen. “We wrapped the staircases around the rock, and made it into a fireplace.” The couple treasures the property’s strong connection to nature. “The ocean is so close, you can literally go fishing right out back,” says Jim. “While the house was being built, the construction workers caught fish for their lunch every day, and grilled it on site.”

RESOURCE GUIDE Arri/LeCron Architects James LeCron & Karen Arri-Lecron 109 Oliver Road, Santa Barbara, California 805-966-4034 | ArriLeCron.com

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The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea takes fine fare to new heights . . . and our dining editor goes ape. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

Sequestered amid tropical fruit trees, overlooking Maui’s south shore, The Treehouse at Hotel Wailea offers an intimate setting for a memorable dining experience.

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HOTEL WAILEA

Left: Sweet hothouse tomatoes from Zuhair Tamimi’s Ha‘ikū farm surround locally produced burrata drizzled with kaleinfused oil and pickled shallots. Accompanying crostini with black garlic purée hits the perfect note.


HOTEL WAILEA

Dining Feature

“Monsieur Tarzan and Madame Jane, this way please.” Grabbing onto monstera vines dangling from giant mango trees, we sail over “elephant ear” colocasia, corkscrewed pandanus and orchid trees, traversing the property lickety-split to land in a romantic, candlelit clearing. Chef de Cuisine Zach Sato greets us, whisk in hand. “Welcome to The Treehouse.” His words snap me out of my fantasy. I’m not, in fact, Mrs. Lord of the Jungle, but your faithful dining editor. My husband and I have just arrived at the newly renovated Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, whose private “tree house” (actually an elevated dining room surrounded by trees) is taking haute cuisine to a new level. In 2016, Hotel Wailea became the first property in all of Hawai‘i to be accepted into Relais & Châteaux, an international association renowned for its luxury hospitality and art de vivre. Worldwide, only 530 restaurants and hotels have been invited into this prestigious community . . . and Tarzan and I are here to experience that luxurious hospitality for ourselves.

We nibble an amuse-bouche of crisp rice crackers topped with sweet Kaua‘i shrimp, pickled daikon and kim chee. Mynah birds and turtledoves chatter and coo in their roosts as a tropical breeze rustles the mango leaves. Chef Zach reappears at our table with a smokefilled glass cloche. As he lifts the cloche, sweet hickory smoke fills the air and dissipates, revealing a single freshly shucked Kushi oyster with a whisper of citrusy yuzu foam. Next to it, a truffled deviled egg topped with a generous spoonful of French sturgeon caviar provides a quintessential marriage of land and sea. (Yes, this elegant presentation has me, Jane, also cooing rhapsodically.) Pastry Chef Marko Krancher presents us with an assortment of breads, from buttery lavosh to a molasses-topped rye. The lavosh mysteriously disappears as Tarzan dusts crumbs from his lap. (Hmmmm.) The bread is exceptional, and we ask Chef Zach whether we can purchase some. When he gently tells us no, we exchange a few words and concur that we’ll be back in the morning for the breakfast breads in the main restaurant. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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Dining Feature

The restaurant’s Chris Kajioka and Anthony Rush were both chefs at the French Laundry and Per Se. 84

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Tarzan and I also agree that this haute experience recalls a feast we enjoyed at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in Napa Valley. As well it should—co-executive chefs Chris Kajioka and Anthony Rush were both chefs at the French Laundry and its sister venue, Per Se. And Zach Sato? Raised in Upcountry Maui, he took his culinary baby steps as a prep cook in Pā‘ia, followed by three years at Hāli‘imaile General Store under the watchful eye of Chef Bev Gannon, one of the founders of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. He says, “I’d catch the bus to Ho‘okipa and surf all day, then show up at five in the kitchen.” When he was seventeen, Zach moved to California, attended San Diego Culinary Institute, and landed a job at The Med restaurant in La Jolla’s La Valencia Hotel. But, he says, “Hawai‘i called me

back.” He helped open Peter Merriman’s Monkeypod Kitchen in Wailea, served as sous chef at Monkeypod Ko‘olina, and “was promoted to executive chef at Merriman’s Kapalua, where I stayed for three years, [and where] I learned to organize and manage my own team.” Chris Kajioka frequently ran into Zach at fundraising events, recognized the young chef ’s talent, dedication and disciplined work ethic, and hired him away. “Zach received some amazing training at Merriman’s,” Chef Chris told me recently. “Anthony and I started working with him to create recipes for the new Restaurant at Hotel Wailea”—a menu Chris describes as “Maui multicultural with European techniques.” He adds, “Zach is a rising star.” Recalling Per Se and the French Laundry’s culinary achievements, I asked,

HOTEL WAILEA

Creamy foie gras terrine with mangoriesling gelée is juxtaposed with delightfully crisp Serrano ham, candied macadamia nuts and fresh mango.


BOTTOM: HOTEL WAILEA; TOP (4): BECKY SPEERE

“Like in Michelin-star excellence?” Chris answered, “Yes.” As I share this comment with Tarzan, our next course arrives: foie gras under a thin layer of mango-riesling gelée with crispy Serrano ham, diced mango from the hotel’s harvest and candied macadamia nuts. A baton of toasted brioche accompanies the smooth-as-silk foie gras, along with a Château la Grave Sauternes singing notes of honeysuckle and stone fruit. Tarzan and I beam with affection for this dish as we cut, spread, eat and sip, and repeat. Following the rich foie gras, Zach brings us a refreshing, palate-cleansing tomato gazpacho with hints of smoky and fruity piment d’Espelette. He slowly decants the chilled soup around diced, charred watermelon and crisp cucumbers. Almost too beautiful to eat, the soup is balanced to enhance the delicate flavors of the fruit and vegetables without overwhelming them. A glass of 2014 Château d’Esclans Rock Angel rosé perfectly compliments the gazpacho and accompanies the next tasting: kale Caesar salad with baby radish, blanched almonds and blackened grapes. A thin slice of heaven arrives in the form of a crisp crostini with dollops of sensuous black garlic purée, as dark as the starlit sky we are now sitting under. The warm glow of candlelight surrounds us in the open-air tree house. Tarzan and I inhale deeply and trade loving glances as Zach announces the next course, gently placing before us two bowls of steaming “hand-cut pappardelle with a butter-poached lobster ragù topped with wine foam.” The tender al dente ribbons of pasta are napped with fresh tomatoes and sweet lobster; it’s so good! A 2013 Remy chardonnay with citrus and apple notes and a lusciously long finish compliments the seafood selection perfectly. Next: seared onaga with a single, tiny branch of tempura sea asparagus, cauliflower, and sauce vierge—a purée of capers, sea asparagus and olive oil.

Above, left to right: amusebouche of shrimp and pickled root vegetable on puffed rice; bread service à la The Restaurant; sunsets good enough to be on the menu; lightly smoked, shucked oyster with yuzu oil and deviled truffle-egg topped with French sturgeon caviar. Below: Among The Restaurant’s many fresh offerings is this classic Italian cioppino—tender Kona lobster, sweet Kaua‘i shrimp, Maui fish du jour, and succulent Manila clams in a rich seafood broth.

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Our fourth course is Australian lamb chops dusted with macadamia nuts and rosemary, and accompanied by a side of charred broccolini and date jam. It’s paired with a Willamette Valley 2014 Dobbes Family Estate pinot noir. The tender lamb nestles beside silken potatoes puréed with slow-roasted shallots and copious amounts of brown butter. Tarzan is going quietly ape over the lamb when Marko returns with a dessert sampler I can only call divine. The Hawaiian Lave (French for lava) is a take on s’mores; as Marko flambés the marshmallows, burnt sugar sweetens the air, making me dream of fireside cookouts. A deconstructed Napoleon is dressed for the evening in chocolate pearls and a feuilletine crisp. As we sip crystal-clear pineapple and mango consommé with sweet mango “ravioli,” Marko presents us with a final gift of exquisite handmade chocolates. The chefs bid us adieu, and utterly content, Tarzan and I descend the candlelit staircase and meander along the path through the trees. Next to home, this is one tree house we’ll want to experience again and again. Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi Street, Wailea 808-874-0500 | HotelWailea.com

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Top left: Miniature branches of crisp tempura sea asparagus garnish a filet of Maui onaga (deep-ocean red snapper), accompanied by cauliflower prepared two ways—puréed and charred. Sauce vierge with capers and sea asparagus balances the dish for a harmony of ocean flavors.

Top right: Seasoned at award-winning restaurants Hāli‘imaile General Store and Merriman’s, and now mentored by Chris Kajioka and Anthony Rush, Chef de Cuisine Zach Sato is The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea’s rising star.

Above: Candlelight sets the mood for a romantic dining experience at The Treehouse, complete with your own private chef. Wedding proposals, anniversaries and birthdays are perfect excuses for a tour de force in fine dining.

LEFT & BOTTOM: HOTEL WAILEA; TOP RIGHT: MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Dining Feature


ESCAPE ALOHA Make every moment Grand.

3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 800.888.6100 • WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM LOCATED AT GRAND WAILEA, A WALDORF ASTORIA RESORT


Dining » Chef’s Kitchen

Above: The red, white and green of Italy’s flag inspired Chelsee Anderson’s crab manicotti, the restaurant’s top seller the night the dish debuted. Mascarpone, ricotta and crab fill the housemade pasta—Italian comfort food at its finest. Find the recipe on page 90. Opposite: The shape of things to yum—Taverna’s sous chef proudly displays the varieties of pasta her kitchen toys let her create by hand. From rotini to manicotti, fettucine to orecchiette, “Chefette” has the Kapalua pasta market cornered.

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TAVERNA’S PASTA-PASSIONATE “CHEFETTE” STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RODRIGO MORAES

When Taverna Maui opened in Kapalua in March 2016, it brought together as co-owners two respected names in the island’s food community: Chris Kaiwi, longtime manager of Pineapple Grill and Plantation House; and Roger Stettler, former executive chef at Four Seasons Maui. And then there’s Taverna’s sous chef, Chelsee Anderson, who calls herself a “pasta Nazi,” but whose peers know her as “Chefette.” Chelsee explains that her first employer and mentor, Chris Kulis, gave her that nickname when she worked at his Capische? restaurant in Wailea. “Every time someone would call me ‘Chef,’ I wouldn’t answer, because I couldn’t imagine that they were talking to me. I was the only female in the kitchen, and still in culinary school.” The nickname stuck, and so did Chelsee. “It wasn’t easy, but after two-anda-half years, I had worked my way to the sous chef position.” In 2016, Capische? became The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, and Chef Roger, impressed by Chelsee’s passion and drive, recruited her to help open Taverna as sous chef; she joined the team as it developed menus and recipes. Although a sous chef is, by definition, the kitchen’s second-in-command, Chelsee considers making fresh pasta her core responsibility. The 2012 Maui Culinary Academy graduate says, “I loved making pasta from the first time my stepdad, Papa Pete, let me help in the kitchen. I remember his fresh pasta with homemade Italian sausage ragù. Today, I am the “pasta Nazi”—I make all the pasta for Taverna. We do traditional pasta, but I can also make gluten-free, chickpea, even quinoa. If I’m training someone, it has to be made exactly how I want, or it gets thrown out.” Her tough talk is belied by her warm smile—and a voice that jumps up an octave with the excitement of a kid in a candy shop as she says, “We recently purchased ten new dies for [extruding] various-shaped pastas. And I just bought eight new Italian cookbooks. I am immersed in Italian food. I dream about Italy . . . delis filled with cured salumi, cheese shops, fresh breads and wine shops.” Demonstrating how to make crab manicotti, Chelsee confesses that the night this dish debuted, it was Taverna’s biggest seller. “I was tickled because it was my dish, created to represent the colors of the Italian flag. Everyone loved it!” One taste, and we agree. Baked in the intensely hot pizza oven, crunchy golden pasta ends peek out of the marinara-slathered manicotti. Contrasting flavors of creamy cheesiness and bright, fresh tomatoes dazzle our taste buds. Beaming, Chefette leaves us to continue her pasta making and cheffing, as we revel in the last few bites. Taverna Maui, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua | TavernaMaui.com 808-667-CIAO (2426)

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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Dining » Chef’s Kitchen

Taverna’s Maui Crab Cannelloni/Manicotti* Servings: 6–8 (2–3 filled pastas per person) | Prep Time: 2 hours topping 2 c. mozzarella, grated assembly Cover bottom of 9”x13”baking dish with 3 c. marinara. Place 2 generous Tbsp. of filling in middle of pasta, and roll up. Place in prepared pan and repeat until filled. Cover filled pasta with 4 c. marinara and top with grated mozzarella. Bake at 350° till sauce bubbles and mozzarella begins to turn golden brown. Remove from oven and let sit in pan for 10 minutes before serving. Leftover pasta and filling may be used in other dishes, such as lasagna or ravioli. Pasta may be dried for later use.

pasta 8 oz. all-purpose flour 6 egg yolks 1 whole egg 1 tsp. extra virgin olive oil ½ tsp. whole milk pinch of salt Combine all ingredients and mix well. Knead dough for 5 minutes, then let rest at room temperature for 1 hour. Prepare crab filling and marinara. When ready to assemble, roll dough into thin sheets and cut into 4”x4” portions. (Dough may be blanched to reduce cooking time.) *This recipe is for homemade cannelloni. If you use store-bought manicotti (available at Whole Foods Market), boil it for 3 minutes, drain and rinse under cool water. Blanch only until firm-tender; pasta will continue to soften during baking. Use a pastry bag for ease in stuffing the tubular pasta with crab filling.

marinara 5 lbs. locally grown tomatoes, chopped (reserving juices); or 4 28-oz. cans of San Marzano tomatoes 3 Tbsp. olive oil 1 c. basil leaves, loosely packed 10 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tsp. sugar, or to taste salt and pepper, to taste Sauté garlic in olive oil on medium heat ‘til tender (about 5 minutes). Add remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer. Simmer on low for 2–4 hours, stirring occasionally, to desired thickness and flavor.** Adjust salt and pepper, as needed.

crab filling 1 lb. mascarpone 1 lb. ricotta ½ lb. crabmeat 1 tsp. champagne vinegar ½ c. arugula, blanched and thinly sliced ¼ c. grated Parmesan zest from one lemon salt and pepper, to taste Mix all ingredients by hand. Refrigerate until ready to use.

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**Cooking time varies with fresh tomatoes, which may differ in flavor, moisture, or meatiness. Use your judgment, or purchase a high-quality, ready-made marinara (also available at Whole Foods Market).



Dining » Maui Mixology

THE GREAT BEER COCKTAIL Maui’s craft brews are good for what ales you. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

Botero Lounge bartender Mich Domingo serves up a li hing mui-flavored gose (a lemony-tart beer) specially crafted by Maui Brewing Company to celebrate the Grand Wailea’s twenty-fifth anniversary.

A WHALE OF A LAUNCH Koholā is the Hawaiian word for humpback whale, but when Koholā Brewery received a bronze medal at the 2016 Great American Beer Festival, it was for the company’s German-style Lokahi Pilsner. It’s been less than a year since Koholā Brewery opened in Lahaina. (Until the bottling plant’s complete, you’ll find the company’s craft beers exclusively at the brewery’s tasting room and at restaurants around the island.) But Kohalā’s not waiting to jump on the beer cocktail bandwagon. Named after the “beertender” who invented it, The Seth is a refreshing drink combining

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6 oz. 88 Light Rye IPA and 2 oz. Lokahi Pineapple Pilsner in a pint glass. Brewery owner Christine Elumba says, “It’s fun to mix and match. For people who want a healthier drink with less alcohol, Secret Bastard Child is the answer: a pint glass filled 50/50 with Kai Ala Saison (Belgian-style farmhouse ale) and VitaliTea kombucha.” Check Koholā’s website for information on monthly pop-up beer-pairing dinners. Koholā Brewery | 910 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., #55, Lahaina | 808-868-3198 | www. KoholaBrewery.com

SHORE BREAK Courtesy of Grand Wailea’s Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a 2 oz. Tanqueray gin ¾ oz. falernum* 1 oz. pineapple juice ½ oz. lime juice Big Swell IPA to top off garnish: pineapple slice and mint sprig, optional Fill a 16-oz. glass with ice. Add first 4 ingredients, slowly topping off with Maui Brewing Company’s Big Swell. Garnish with a slice of sweet Maui Gold pineapple and a sprig of mint. *A sweet syrup used in tropical drinks, falernum contains flavors of almond, lime, ginger and/or cloves, and sometimes vanilla or allspice. It is an irreplaceable ingredient in mai tais—and now, beer cocktails. Learn how to make it at Imbibe Magazine.com/homemade-falernum-recipe.

LEFT & TOP: COURTESY OF GRAND WAILEA RESORT; BOTTOM: COURTESY OF KOHALĀ BREWERY

Beer cocktails as luxury drinks? You bet your tankard! The refreshing, ice-cold bubbly from Maui’s craft breweries can stand up to some of the continent’s best craft beers. This we know, thanks to the 2016 Great American Beer Festival, held in Denver last October. Out of 7,300 beers judged, Maui’s own brought back two coveted awards, including Maui Brewing Company’s Imperial Coconut Porter, which captured the gold in the Field Beer category. This January, the Grand Wailea’s Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a restaurant debuts Shore Break, an upscale beer cocktail with a tiki-bar touch, featuring Maui Brewing Company’s Big Swell.



dining guide B = Breakfast BR = Brunch  L = Lunch  D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9pm  RR = Reservation recommended  $ = Average entreé under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40  $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2016

WEST SIDE Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ The Banyan Tree, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Savor a top-shelf mai tai, an appetizer of seared scallops on cauliflower purée, and braised beef short ribs with kabocha squash and ali‘i mushrooms. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$ Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-

921-4600. Grilled catch of the day comes with coconut Moloka‘i purple sweet potato and ginger-spiced broccolini glazed with yuzu brown butter. Or try the New York strip steak with bleu cheese fondue and baked mashed potato. The mac-nut brittle bar is to die for. Kidfriendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. Impressive steak program featuring filet mignon, American Wagyu rib-eye, and Australian lamb chops. Modern plantation-style bar offers light fare and full island-inspired restaurant menu. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$

Fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill.com 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6000

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The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939. Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with Basque country fare. French. D. $$$$

Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. American. B, L. $

Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$

Dollies Pub & Café, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266. Hand-pressed crusts and stoneoven pizzas highlight a menu ranging from cheese steak and meatball subs to Costa Rican salad. L, D, N. $–$$ Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

Best Mexican Restaurant 2O15 GOLD Best Mexican Restaurant 2O16 Silver

Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$

Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. L. $

Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a fifties-diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine ‘Aipono Award

MAUIMAGAZINE. NET/AIPONO

Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. This family-friendly restaurant serves up Angus beef burgers, refreshing salads and fun mixology, all with great ocean views, live entertainment and aloha. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$

Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031. Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$

A fresh take on Old Mexico

SAVE THE DATE! APRIL 23, 2017 THE ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS GALA HYATT REGENCY

Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. American/British pub food. B, L, D $$–$$$$

Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood. Steak, too! Japanese. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Try the braised short-rib pho atop rice noodles, corn and sweet peppers in rich ginger beef broth. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Dine in casual comfort with the Tiki Restaurant’s full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-7733. From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina comes this venue serving burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and salads. Dinner adds steak, fresh fish and pasta. Thirty wines under $30 a bottle. American. D. $–$$ Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work sushi magic. Large selection of Japanese saké. Sushi. D. $$$ Koa’s Seaside Grill, 839 Front St., Lahaina, 6677737. The folks at Gazebo run this oceanfront eatery, and serve the same famous breakfast menu from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Plus pulled-pork sandwiches, prime rib and mahimahi. American. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying


lahaina fried soup shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Sushi/ Japanese. D, N, RR. $$$ Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 6613472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed scallops. Memorable tropical drinks, and happy hour from noon to 6 p.m. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$

yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors like sesame crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake mushroom butter soy sauce; and Korean gochujang risotto with salt and peppa’ mahi. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Shave Ice. $ See South Shore listing. Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 6679394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthconscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more. Bakery/Café. B, L. $ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create some of Maui’s most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. See South Side listing. Myths of Maui, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6619119. Enjoy live music, Polynesian dance, and an islandinspired buffet, complete with unearthing of the kalua pig from the imu. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Kick back with a tropical cocktail and pūpū (appetizer) beside the pool; the paparazzi should be there shortly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thai-lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$

Serving Hawaii’s Restaurant & Fine Wine Community since 1979

Pailolo Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6673200. Spicy, homemade Bloody Mary will rev your engines in the morning. Excellent burgers, tacos, and appetizers, plus ice-cold beer on tap. American. B, L, D. $ Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr. Kapalua, 6699600. You don’t have to golf to eat here! Try the breakfast chorizo and egg burrito smothered in green chiles and cheddar cheese, or a satisfying grilled mahimahi dinner with glazed asparagus, pickled tomatoes and salsa verde. Expansive offering of reasonably priced wine and beer. B, L, D. $–$$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$

Importers & Distributors of the World’s Finest Wines www.ChambersWines.com @ChamberswinesHI ChambersWinesHawaii @ChamberswinesHI

Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with Rising Star Chef Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$ Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Island cuisine speaks Italian! Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with a sweet zeppole, tiramisu or budino. Closed Tues– Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fried rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and a great kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts. Reservations at Open Table. com. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled

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ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Souffle. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with queso fundido, chimichangas, enchilada and chile relleno plates, awardwinning rotisserie chicken, and happy hour with muchas buenas prices! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shark Pit, 170 Papalaua St., #104, Lahaina, 298-7776. This former food truck is now a brick-andmortar establishment with a stepped-up menu and expanded, creative cuisine. Pacific Rim. L, D. $-$$ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccanspiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, linecaught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Beginning to end, Taverna is a dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko—then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$


A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i WWW.FEASTATLELE .COM


dining guide Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps fans coming back for more with commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Tiki Tiki Thai, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911/ 283-5202. Filet mignon in creamy Thai chili sauce, chicken panang curry, and many vegetarian selections. Coconut mango sticky rice pudding will plunk you into tropical heaven. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups like liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Additional West Maui locations: 819 Front St., Lahaina; and in the Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. Shave Ice. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D. RR. $$$$

SOUTH SHORE Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing.

Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, N. $ Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/ Italian. B, L, D. $$ Cheeseburger Grille and Tap Room, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748990. Hit the king crab and asparagus eggs Benedict for breakfast, head down to the beach for a swim and some sunbathing, then return for burgers and brew at this iconic restaurant. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smoky bourbon-bacon jam and blue

As Seen on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-in’s and Dives

cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$ Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf-n-turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$ Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$ Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for 15 hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, one with blue cheese and apples. American. L, D. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$ Five Palms, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Watch the whales cruise by and enjoy lobster-tempura sushi and baked artichokes—half-price from 3 to 6 p.m. Breakfast is generously served until 2:30 p.m. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675. Chef-owners Cody, Travis and Jared serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, glutenand dairy-free options. International. L, D. $ Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$ Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8751234. Carpaccio of Japanese hamachi with celeryginger shaved ice, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, crispy mahimahi on forbidden rice . . . love from first bite to last. Pacific Rim. D. $$$$

Kahana - West Maui (808) 669-9010

Kihei - South Maui (808) 891-MISO (6476)

Kahana Manor, 4310 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy #111

Azeka Place Mauka, 1279 South Kihei Road #108

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Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230. Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three


Urban & hip neighborhood gathering place serving Italian comfort food. Located in the heart of Kapalua Resort.

; CRAFT COCKTAILS ; CRAFT TAP BEERS ; ITALIAN INSPIRED WINE SELECTIONS DINNER: 5:30PM TO CLOSING LATE NIGHT BAR & MENU: UNTIL 11PM 808-667-CIAO (2426) TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 VILLAGE ROAD KAPALUA RESORT

Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

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“Treat your friends like family & your family like friends” —Big Manoli

normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Local Boys Shave Ice, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779. How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with Plantation Era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Shave Ice. $ Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemonfeta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$ Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kalua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with icecold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$

Great pizza made with whole wheat or gluten-free crusts. Wide variety of appetizers, pastas, salads as well as daily Chef’s specials. Awesome burgers and sandwiches at lunchtime as well as homemade fries. We are passionate about using fresh, local, organic and sustainable products when available.

The Market, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 8792433. Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie. Deli. L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8916476. Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop

TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: 808.874.7499

Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto offers signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions and locally sourced ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

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Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic


dining guide seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market South Side, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888. The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. See North Shore listing. The Pint & Cork, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038. Mac and cheese with black truffles, deviled eggs Rockefeller, poke bowls and burgers. International. B (Sat & Sun), L, D, N. $-$$ Pizza Madness,1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches with chips and a pickle, some of the best pizza this side of the Pacific, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza L, D. $–$$ The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Produce gathered from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant. Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. D, N. $$$$$$ Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, D. $-$$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8948880. See West Side listing. Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing. Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Chef Cameron Lewark’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six different ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759983. Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$ Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose a rosemary-

garlic-crusted steak on roasted garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, Maui Brewery and wine selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing. Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads, and entrèes like braised chocolate chipotle lamb shank with maizena. American/Pacific Rim. B (Sat–Sun), L, D (Mon–Sat). $–$$ Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650. This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing. Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly

LOCAL FLAVORS EXPRESSED THROUGH CULINARY INNOVATION Sharing food with the people you love is a big part of traditional Hawaiian culture, and our fresh restaurant Ka’ana Kitchen serves up some of Maui’s best dishes family style. So grab your favorite humans, and share farm-to-table cuisine expertly prepared to stimulate your sense of adventure. CALL US at +1 808 243 4750 to book your reservation.

The trademarks Andaz® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. © 2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

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dining guide describes this organic eatery’s pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. The taro veggie burgers and the poi açai bowl with fresh fruit are a delicious spin on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Vegan, Takeout Only. B, L. $ Fatt Chicks Burgers, Brews & Grill, 200 Halewaiu Rd., Waiehu, 242-6666. The 19th hole never tasted so good! Kim chee loco moco, bountiful salads and ‘ono burgers. Nuff said! Go eat! Pacific Regional. B, L. $ Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are $2. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Fresh Streatery, 344-7929. Chef Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $ The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333. Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Chef Jeff Scheer’s harmony of flavors will woo you back for more. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$

Poi by the Pound, 385 Ho‘ohana St., Kahului, 2839381. Eat like a local. Hawaiian. L, D. $ A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 8930026. See West Side listing. Tin Roof, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753. Sheldon Simeon of Bravo TV’s Top Chef fame lets you build your own kau kau bowl with his savory offerings: sweet Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and kochujang sauce; seared furikaki-crusted fish with wasabi mayo and soy, and more. Pacific Rim. L. $–$$ TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7 311. Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves up plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, such as potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku. Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $ Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Soups and sandwiches served

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UNCOMPROMISING SINCE 1985

NICK’S Best Service, Best Wine List SARENTO’S Most Romantic Setting

Founder/CEO Aaron Placourakis was raised around great food. And like all Greeks, he was instilled with the belief that “family” isn’t limited to close relatives, but includes all who are gathered around the table. It’s an approach that’s perfected by his team, who greet you at the door as a friend. We invite you to join us. Be a part of the family. Create unforgettable memories in the most spectacular settings on earth. And rediscover the joy of good living.

Maui’s premier seafood restaurant Happy Hour Nightly 808 879-7224 | Wailea NicksFishmarketMaui.com

Spectacular dining steps from the beach Happy Hour Nightly Serving breakfast and dinner 808 875-7555 | Kihei

SarentosOnTheBeach.com


dining guide with fresh local greens, but a favorite with diners is the portobello mushroom and bacon burger . . . need we say more? American. B, L. $

UPCOUNTRY Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$ Farmacy Health Bar, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 868-0443. See Central listing. Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $-$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$-$$$$ La Isla Mexican Tamales, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 572-8258. Tamale lovers and local plate-lunch eaters unite! Great food, reasonable prices. Local/Mexican. L, D. $ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning. Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Market Fresh Bistro, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-4877. Chef Justin Pardo brings a passion for sustainable food to this courtyard gem. Try a breakfast frittata or pan-roasted crab cakes with corn succotash. Dinner Thursday through Saturday. Call for dates on special farm dinners. American. B, L, D. $–$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. Mexican. L, D. $$ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across from Maui Winery, find great deli fare, and hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kalua pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Dine indoors or out. Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $

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presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH-Maui Culinary Academy. To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by: Matteo’s Osteria 161 Wailea Ike Place, A107 Wailea Tuesday, Feb. 21, 6 p.m.

For reservations, call 891-8466. For the menu, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners $125 per person, all inclusive $25 from each dinner supports Maui Culinary Academy.

The theme for the dinner will be:

The Wines of Italy “Wine is light held together by water.” So said the great Italian astronomer Galileo, and we couldn’t agree more. Come join us on a virtual wine tour of Italy’s Piedmont, Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, and the Marche. Participating wineries Marchesi di Gresy, Inama, Vignalta, Cleto Chiarli, Casanova di Neri, Selvapiana and Garofoli will help us fashion this rare opportunity to explore fine wines from across Italy. Award-winning Chef Matteo Mistura (right) will create a pairing menu steeped in the traditions he learned growing up in a family of restaurateurs in Sarzana, Italy, and fifteen years in the country’s culinary industry. Come savor a four-course feast, from antipasto Toscano, to dolce of pear crostata with Chianti wine reduction—and in between, tenderloin with porcini mushrooms, carnaroli seafood risotto, and more. Salute!


dining guide Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Maka by Mana, 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5799125. Coconut-cream stacker with balsamic reduction, vegan burgers, tempeh Reuben . . . this is vegan and vegetarian fare so delicious, it could make a meat lover cross over. Vegetarian. L, D, RR. $ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$$$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for blacksesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$-$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030. The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $

HĀNA

Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732. Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $

Hāna Burger Food Truck at Hāna Ranch, 5670 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 268-2820. Grass-finished beef burgers, fish sandwiches and salads. American/ Food Truck. L. $–$$ The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hāna-sourced produce and fish are the basis for an original menu by Chef Jay Johnson. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I Lāna‘i City Grille, Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-7211. Asian-influenced cuisine is served in cozy comfort in a historic inn. Try the crab cake appetizers with spicy aioli, and fresh fish over rice pilaf. Asian/American. D, RR. $–$$$ Lāna‘i ‘Ohana Poke Market, 834A Gay St., Lāna‘i City, 808-559-6265. Tucked down a side street off Dole Park, this no-frills venue serves great local grinds like spicy poke bowls with furikake, and teri beef combo plate lunches. Hawaiian. L. $ Malibu Farm, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Organic, farm-to-table fare and a sweeping ocean view. Start with quinoa oatmeal with coconut milk. For lunch, try the Caesar BLT salad or a burrata fruit salad with arugula, mango, papaya and candied mac nuts. American. B, L, $$–$$$. Nobu Lāna‘i, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2832. Celeb chef Matsuhisa-san has handed the knife and hashi (chopsticks) to Chef Marlowe

Lawenko at this beautiful open-air restaurant. Prepare to be amazed. Japanese. D, RR. $$–$$$$ One Forty, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Begin your day with creamy baked oatmeal with fresh fruits, muffins and croissants; or grilled ‘ahi with chipotle-hollandaise eggs Benedict. For dinner, try Chef Kemar Durfield’s beef filet with lobster-mashed potatoes; or moi, the fish of Hawaiian royalty, with taro gnocchi, papaya and pohole salad. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Pele’s Other Garden, 811 Houston St., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-9628. Big deli sandwiches, calzones, pizza, pasta, beer and wine. Deli/Italian. L, D. $–$$ Views at Mānele Golf, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Challenge Dr., 808-565-2000. Lunch goes light and bright with fresh ‘ahi atop arugula, frisée and fiddlehead fern shoots. For heartier appetites, there’s Wagyu skirt steak with charred corn, Mexican cotija cheese and creamy avocado dressing. At lunch or pau hana, sip a cacao mojito or a guava mint lemonade. Hawai‘i Regional. L, $$–$$$ The Sports Bar, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2499. Platters overflowing with baba ganoush, hummus, tabouleh and feta; and not-to-bemissed Jidori chicken wings with creamy blue cheese dip. Long-simmered Lāna‘i venison ragout over pappardelle will prepare you for your day on the greens. Mediterranean. L, D. $$–$$$ More lisitings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

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808.878.6058 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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calendar

Looking for more? Visit mauimagazine.net/maui-events

Whale Trust Maui Golf Tournament, Jan. 28 | Celebration of Hawai‘i, Jan. 14–Feb. 22 | Rita Rudner, Jan. 7 | Lahaina Arts Society featured artists, Jan. 3–Feb. 6 | Judy Collins, Jan. 27

JANUARY

Appler Jan. 13, 6-8 p.m. The Old Jail Gallery honors the late artist Janet Stewart, exhibiting her watercolors, prints and giclées. Both galleries are located inside the Old Lahaina Courthouse, 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

1

Bill Maher Castle Theater, MACC The man who opened the floodgates of funny political talk delivers his biting wit and social commentary, joined by guest comics Margaret Cho and David Cross. 8 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

with theater to explore themes of colonialism, diaspora, and growing up in Hawai‘i. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

14

–FEBRUARY 22

Celebration of Hawai‘i Viewpoints Gallery More than fifty fine artists create works focusing on diversity. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 5725979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

Janua 4-8

Tournament of Champions Plantation Golf Course, Kapalua Come root (shh—quietly) for this exclusive field of champions, each a 2016 PGA Tour winner. GolfAt Kapalua.com

1

& FEBRUARY 5

Upcountry Sundays Acoustic Style Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli Mana‘o Radio goes live, showcasing local and visiting musicians the first Sunday of every month, a benefit for the nonprofit station. 2-5 p.m. 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao; 242-5666; ManaoRadio.com

6

–FEBRUARY 16

Annual Juried Exhibition Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Honolulu artist and educator Duncan Dempster is juror for this multimedia exhibit. Opening reception Jan. 6. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 5726560; HuiNoeau.com

1–2, 21–22; FEBRUARY 12, 18–20

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

7

Model Planes Maui RC Modelers demonstrate radio-controlled flight from 8 a.m. to noon most Saturdays behind the drag strip at Maui Raceway Park in Kīhei. For details, contact Steve Groff at 357-0251 or StephenGroff@Hawaii.rr.com.

3

Straight No Chaser Castle Theater, MACC This isn’t your grandma’s a cappella group. The all-male ensemble is known for their upbeat repertoire and cheeky performances. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

3

7

Rita Rudner McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Known for epigrammatic one-liners, Rudner has performed at Carnegie Hall and in her own HBO specials, and was named Las Vegas’s Comedian of the Year nine years in a row. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

–FEB. 6

Featured Artists Banyan Tree Gallery & Old Jail Gallery Plein-air painter Diane Appler displays her work at Lahaina Arts Society’s Banyan Tree Gallery. Meet

13

Her Bodies of Stories McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Lyz Soto combines slam-poetry choreography

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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Jan 6, Feb 3 Jan 13, Feb 10 Jan 20, Feb 17 Jan 27, Feb 24

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei

15

–MARCH 19

The Way of Natural Textiles Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Japanese textile artist Akihiko Izukura is part of a family whose sash-weaving business goes back generations. His installation of handwoven, naturally dyed silk invites visitors to immerse in the art. Observe & Play Family Day, March 4, 10 a.m.– noon. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

15

Rakuhaku Workshop Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Akihiko Izukura demonstrates spinning, dyeing and weaving on a handloom. Participants will learn pulling, dyeing and forming silk to create a takeaway piece. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Reservations: neida@mauiarts.org. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

15

One Word Castle Theater, MACC The bedazzled tap and jazz dancers of Judy’s Gang entertain. 5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

15

Maui Oceanfront Marathon Wailea to Lahaina The course runs along the ocean to Kamehameha Iki Park near Lahaina’s banyan tree, and includes a half-marathon, 15K, 10K, and 5K races. Maui OceanfrontMarathon.com

16-17

New Shanghai Circus Castle Theater, MACC China’s most daring acrobats, jugglers, balance artists and contortionists return to Maui for this


family-friendly show. Jan. 16, 4 and 7:30 p.m.; Jan. 17, 4 and 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

19

Black Arm Band Castle Theater, MACC Using music to cross cultural lines and landscapes, this Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander group is acclaimed for its celebration of indigenous music and powerful visual imagery. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

20

UB40 Reunited A&B Amphitheater, MACC Ali Campbell, Astro and Mickey Virtue perform new songs and reggae-style covers of classics by the Beatles, Bob Dylan, the Chi-Lites and others. 5:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

20-22

Maui Fringe Theater Festival Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents performance pieces, from high drama to political satire to dance. Opening this year’s Fringe is Small Town Lawyer, a one-act by Anthony Pignataro. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

21

Circus Incognitus Castle Theater, MACC Circus performer Jamie Adkins is the vulnerable everyman in this show featuring acrobatics, juggling and situations both comedic and poetic. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

ary 21-29

Royal Lahaina Challenger Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch Top male professional players (ranked No. 50 and above) vie for a $50,000 purse in singles and doubles tennis. Community events include youth and adult clinics, and social activities. 2780 Keka‘a Dr. Kā‘anapali; RoyalLahainaChallenger.com

22

Broadway Pops Castle Theater, MACC Broadway’s Grammy and Emmy award-winner Jason Howland conducts a concert of works from the Great American Songbook. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

26

Garrick Ohlsson Castle Theater, MACC Winner of the 1970 Chopin International Piano Competition, Ohlsson is known for his masterful performances of Mozart, Beethoven and Schubert. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

27

Judy Collins Castle Theater, MACC The singer/songwriter and folk-music icon performs music from her latest release, Strangers Again, duets with some of her favorite male artists. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

28

Buy Back the Beach Old Lāhaina Lū‘au Join Hawaiian Islands Land Trust at Maui’s most award-winning lū‘au. Proceeds protect Hawai‘i’s endangered places. 5-8:30 p.m. 1251 Front St., Lahaina; 244-5263; hilt.org

Art Glass Showroom by appointment only

808-572-6283

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Visit during the Maui Open Studio Tours Feb. 18, 19 | 11am– 6pm

rick@striniartglass.com www.striniartglasscustomlighting.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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Maui Woodys Made on Maui | 2 year guarantee Over 20 styles | 4 colour lenses Waterproof | 16 hardwoods + Hawaiian Koa & Mango -----------------------------------------------------Custom orders & prescriptions available At a variety of gallery’s & shops on Maui and other Hawaiian Islands or call 808-283-2018 for mobile boutique/personal service

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28

Whale Trust Maui Golf Tournament King Kamehameha Golf Course Hosted by Whale Tales Maui, this scrambleformat tournament features a continental breakfast, awards luncheon, cash prizes, and a new Mercedes for a lucky hole-in-one. 8 a.m. 2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū. 572-5700; Whale Trust.org

28

Chad Takatsugi McCoy Studio Theater, MACC This multiple Nā Hōkū Hanohano award winner shares Hawaiian music from the past and present. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

FEBRUARY WEEKENDS THROUGH FEBRUARY

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Maui Open Studios Meet island artists over four weekends, beginning with an opening celebration and preview exhibit Feb. 4 at UH-Maui College’s Pā‘ina Building, 310 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 5–8 p.m. For info and schedule, visit MauiOpenStudios.com

1

The Wonderheads McCoy Studio Theater, MACC This acclaimed company mixes physical theater, comedy and pathos in Loon, a love story that whisks a man to the moon and back. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

4

ArT=Mixx Yokouchi Pavilion & Courtyard/Schaefer International Gallery, MACC This free event features performing and visual art and interactive activities relating to the exhibit Akihiko Izukura: The Way of Natural Textiles. Costumes encouraged. Ages 21 & older. 7–11 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

7

David Sedaris Castle Theater, MACC Sedaris mines poignant comedy from his peculiar childhood in North Carolina, his bizarre career path, and a move with his lover to France. Join him for readings and recollections, and a Q&A session, followed by a book signing. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

7

–MARCH 6

Featured Artist Banyan Tree Gallery Photographer Marty Wolf presents his work. The gallery is located inside the Old Lahaina Courthouse, 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; Lahaina Arts.com

9

Rosie Herrera Dance Theatre Castle Theater, MACC Their whirlwind success has taken them from soldout performances at the American Dance Festival, to the Baryshnikov Arts Center NYC. The Miami company will perform a work that explores the nature of inherited muscle memory. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

11

Jake Shimabukuro with the Maui Pops Orchestra Castle Theater, MACC Renowned for his superfast and complex finger work, this ‘ukulele wizard joins Maui Pops Orchestra for a lush symphonic concert. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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ebruar The Wonderheads, Feb. 1

16

Ailey II Castle Theater, MACC Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater grew from a now-fabled 1958 performance that forever changed the perception of American dance. Founded in 1974 as the Alvin Ailey Repertory Ensemble, Ailey II continues that mission with some of the country’s best young dancers and emerging choreographers. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

18

Bark for Life of Maui Keōpūolani Dog Park Join the American Cancer Society for a benefit walk followed by demonstrations, contests and games. 9 a.m.–noon; 700 Halia Nakoa St., Wailuku; 244-5554; chelsea.katzeman@cancer.org

19

Winter Pops Castle Theater, MACC The Maui Pops concert features guest pianist and conductor David Benoit, winner of American Smooth Jazz Awards’ Lifetime Achievement Award. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

Scotty McCreery Castle Theater, MACC This American Idol winner has a slew of country and contemporary hits, including “See You Tonight” and “I Love You This Big.” 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

23

Dobet Gnahoré Castle Theater, MACC Ivory Coast vocalist and dancer Dobet Gnahoré shared the 2010 award for Best Urban/Alternative Performance with India.Arie at the Grammy Awards. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

F E B RUA RY H I G H L I G HT

18-26

Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational Various locations Plein-air painters from across Hawai‘i and the mainland spend the week capturing Maui on canvas. Come watch. There are workshops, paint-offs, and opportunities to view and purchase artwork. 665-1491; MauiPlein AirPainting.org. For tickets and registration to the February 24 Art to Heart Gala at the Royal Lahaina Resort, with dinner, auction/art sale and entertainment, visit MauiPleinAirPainting.org.

11TH ANNUAL

WHALE TALES HOSTED BY WHALE TRUST MAUI

FEB 24-27, 2017 THE RITZ-CARLTON, KAPALUA

EXPERT PRESENTATIONS FREE & OPEN TO THE PUBLIC

ART & EDUCATION EXPO

PHOTO CREDIT: FLIP NICKLIN/MINDEN PICTURES. NMFS PERMIT #753.

22

HANDS-ON LEARNING

BENEFIT WHALE WATCHES REGISTER EARLY

Event registration is required. All proceeds support whale research in Hawai’i.

WHALETRUST.ORG

808-572-5700 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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INFINITY TRAINING MAUI

arts education. Come dressed as your favorite visual artist from the last century. 5–10 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

25

–MARCH 22

F E B RUA RY H I G H L I G HT

21 FUN FITNESS FOR ALL LEVELS

‘Aipono Wine Dinner Matteo’s Osteria Explore the wines of Italy’s Piedmont, Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany and the Marche, paired with a four-course feast by Italianborn Chef Matteo Mistura. $125 per person, inclusive. A portion of proceeds benefits UH– Maui Culinary Academy. 6 p.m. 161 Wailea Ike Place, Wailea. Reservations: 891-8466

808-495-5866

InfinityTrainingMaui.com Infinity Training Maui

Whale Tales The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Hosted by Whale Trust Maui, this annual fundraiser is an international gathering of scientists and conservationists who share their insights about Maui’s humpback whales. Activities include presentations, parties and a whale-watching cruise. Whale Tales supports whale research on Maui and across the Pacific. 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua. 572-5700; WhaleTrust.org

25

Art Affair Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Kick off Kaluanui Estate’s centennial at this art auction and social event benefiting community

A C E L E B R AT I O N A N D G A L A F U N D R A I S E R A BLACK

&

26

Keauhou

McCoy Studio Theater, MACC An award-winning trio, Kahanuola Solatorio and brothers Nicholas and Zachary Lum are dedicated to perpetuating traditional Hawaiian music. 5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

February 24-27

• Mobile Personal Training • Fun Outdoor Equipment • Fitness Classes • 25 Years Experience • Certified & Insured

Hawai‘i Contemporary Viewpoints Gallery Local contemporary artists display their latest work. Opening reception February 25, starting at 5 p.m. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

P L AT I N U M B A L L

04.08.17

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Journey

A&B Amphitheater, MACC Since forming in 1973, Journey has earned nineteen Top 40 singles and twenty-five gold and platinum albums. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s Mar-Apr 2017 print edition must be received by Jan. 13. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

H Y AT T R E G E N C Y M A U I

F E AT U R I N G A D R I E N N E W A R R E N MAUI’S BIGGEST DANCE PARTY

T H E P L AT I N U M A F T E R PA RT Y F E AT U R I N G

Eric Gilliom Band and Next Level Entertainment I N PA RT N E R S H I P W I T H

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2016 Tony Award Nominee for her role in Shuffle Along as “Gertrude Saunders/Florence Mills”, Warren originated the role of Danielle in the Tony Nominated Broadway hit Bring It On her credits also include Dreamgirls, The Wiz. The Platinum and Gold record artist has many TV credits including the popular Orange is the New Black.

FOR TICKETS, RESERVATIONS AND SPONSORSHIPS 8 0 8 . 2 4 4 . 7 4 6 7 112

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ImuaFamilySer vices.org


who’s who

JOSE MORALES; SECOND ROW, FAR LEFT: MARK ANTOSH

NOBLE CHEF | Fairmont Kea Lani | October 22, 2016 | Benefit for Maui Culinary Academy

L to R: Eddie Takayesu, John Bendon | Brian Toker, Kayla McCracken, Laura Creider, Crissa Hiranaga | Lea Rasos, Edie Tam, Krystle Rasos | Jason & Christina Williams, Chan Sumida, Emilie Guinto

L to R: Diane Woodburn, Teresa Shurilla | Melanie & Garrett Marrero | Jeanette Iwado, Jill Spalding, Susan Bendon, Sharon Dahlquist | Susan & Craig Tokunaga, Kyle Mainaga, Faye Murayama

JOSE MORALES

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER | Kapalua Cliff House at Montage Kapalua Bay | October 7, 2016 | Benefit for Maui Culinary Academy

L to R: Geoff Labitzke, Jeremiah Allen | Jerry & Kim Riccioni, Jeanann & Bob McCoy | Nathan Hood, David Viviano, Davis Hood | Becky & Chris Speere, JoRene & Gunars Valkirs

JOSE MORALES

HAWAI‘I FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL | Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa | October 15, 2016 | Benefit for various charities

L to R: Brian & Mia Volk | Martin Yan, Diane Braga | Dean Wong, David Ward | Donna & Paris Nabavi (photo bomber Bev Gannon) | Svetla Doncheva, Leo Mallari | Maite & Terry Hitchcock

JOSE MORALES

KA LIMA O MAUI 60TH ANNIVERSARY | Nick’s Fishmarket | November 5, 2016 | Benefit for Ka Lima O Maui

L to R: Dana & Debbie Souza | Matthew & Kelly Thayer | Maggie Coulombe, Roz Baker, Peter Martin | Larry Stubblefield, Chantal & Marc Ratte, Howard Dashefsky | Roger & Cindi Manuel

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2017

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a perfect day on maui

Luxury Cruisin’ Ka‘ana Kitchen

Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui. Story & photos by Lehia Apana

1 2

Makai Glass

8 a.m. Today is all about cruising in style. Maui’s most scenic drives are amplified when explored behind the wheel of a convertible 1957 Porsche Speedster reproduction from Maui Roadsters. A thirtyminute tutorial prepares you for an island-style road trip. 122 Kio Loop, Kīhei; MauiRoadsters.com 8:45 a.m. Impress the valet and any lingering paparazzi as you roll up to the chic Andaz Maui at Wailea. Fuel up at the resort’s Ka‘ana Kitchen, where a lavish buffet offers locally sourced ingredients and island-style favorites gone gourmet. Spice things up with the wildly popular Adoboloco hot sauces. (Oprah’s a fan!) They’re made on island, and the “Mangoes! Bumbye!” is a flavor collaboration that includes Hawaiian chili peppers grown on the resort’s grounds. Palm trees and ocean views complete the meal. 3550 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea; Maui.Andaz.Hyatt.com

3 4

10 a.m. Head across the central valley to Maui’s north shore. Stretch your legs and explore Pā‘ia’s surf-inspired specialty shops, then continue up Baldwin Avenue.

Hui No‘eau Homme by Nature

11:30 a.m. Before reaching Makawao, take an easy detour onto Hāli‘imaile Road and stop at Makai Glass Creations, where you can watch artisans shape delicate sculptures before your eyes. 903 Hāli‘imaile Road, Hāli‘imaile; MakaiGlass.com. Alternately, continue on Baldwin Avenue and visit Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center—located at historic Kaluanui Estate—and view the current exhibit. 2841 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao; HuiNoeau.com

5 6 7 8

12:30 p.m. Giddy-up Baldwin Avenue to cowboy-infused Makawao town, stopping for lunch at the open-air Makawao Garden Café, then browse the area’s stylish boutiques. 3669 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao; MakawaoGardenCafe.LetsEat.at 2 p.m. Above Makawao Avenue, Baldwin becomes Olinda Road, winding through eucalyptus tree tunnels (ahh, deep breaths!) and undulating pasture lands. Follow it to a pot of gold: Rainbow Acres Cactus and Succulent Gardens. Peruse the hundreds of weird and wonderful varieties at this picturesque outpost. 2233 Olinda Road, Makawao. Limited hours; schedule at RnbowAc.maui.net.

Rainbow Acres

Kahului

Airport

Pā‘ia 3

4

Hāli‘imaile 4

5

Be sure someone knows how to drive a stick shift.

Makawao

Olinda 6

Kula

4 p.m. The voyage continues as you head towards ‘Ulupalakua, navigating the photogenic twists and turns until reaching Sun Yatsen Park in Kēōkea, a serene tribute to this former Maui resident and the man known as the father of modern China. 5:30 p.m. Past Kēōkea and ‘Ulupalakua, the pavement opens to Maui’s road less traveled, flanked by arid countryside and staggering Pacific Ocean views. Drive about eight miles past Sun Yat-sen Park and put the car in park to enjoy arguably the most surreal sunset view on Maui. 8 p.m. Albeit reluctantly, return your Speedster.

Kīhei

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Kēōkea

8 ‘Ulupalakua

Born and bred on Maui, Lehia Apana has explored the island from every angle—and she’s still at it. Each issue, we’ll highlight some of her favorite spots and new discoveries.


It’s More Than a Home. It’s Montage.

L

ooking out on to a picture-perfect view can change your outlook on everything. At Montage Residences Kapalua Bay, you’ll find comfort and tranquility behind your front door and a lifetime of frame-worthy adventures just beyond your lanai. A limited selection of three- and four-bedroom private homes are available, starting at $3.4 Million. Exclusively listed by Lisa Hatem Real Estate Company.

S c h e d u l e You r P r i va t e S h o w i n g

808-662-6551

Mon tageR esidencesK a palua Bay.com

This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure documents required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (collectively, “Montage”) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be terminated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.


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Color Diamonds

The Shops at Wailea

Pearl Collection

Bangle Collection

808.874.1118


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