Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine Mar-Apr 2017 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

SPECIAL ISLAND LIVING SECTION

Walk on the Wild Side

Maui’s ancient, elusive King’s Trail

The Palm Whisperer

Poet Laureate W.S. Merwin’s Eden

Homegrown Fashion

Designs with island roots

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Features

« ISLAND LIVING »

26 » Adventure/Hawaiian Soul 36 » Island Portrait ON THE KING’S TRAIL We uncover a path that encircles the island, beginning in the sixteenth century. Story by Kyle Ellison

THE PALM WHISPERER For forty years, William Merwin has nurtured poetry, the environment, and Hawai‘i’s native culture from his home on Maui’s north shore. Story by Shannon Wianecki

42 » Island Style

HOMEGROWN FASHION In praise of local designers By Tori Speere

48 » Island Business/ Mālama ‘Āina

SOUND INVESTMENT Haleakala Ranch is conserving native forest—by harvesting trees to transform into guitars. Story by Paul Wood

MNKO pages 51–82

isle 2 At Home

LOVE ENDURES Despite the odds, this dwelling keeps proving that home is where the heart is. Story by Kathy Collins

isle 14 Great Finds

BLUE HAWAI‘I Fall in love with island living— even if no ocean surrounds you. Compiled by Conn Brattain

isle 16 Architectural Q&A HOW TO CREATE THE HOME OF YOUR DREAMS Four Maui architects share their insights and wisdom. Interview by Rita Goldman

isle 26 Becky’s Backyard

HAWAIIAN SUGARCANE Years later, our dining editor has her sweet revenge. Story by Becky Speere

isle 28 Real Estate Trends

THE RANCHER’S DAUGHTER Wendy Peterson is a fourthgeneration Maui rancher, and tops at knowing Upcountry real estate. Interview by Diane Haynes Woodburn

About Our Cover

Maui photographer Daniel Sullivan captured the view at Wai‘ānapanapa State Park in Hāna for his book on the ancient King’s Trail. (See story on page 26.)

BEN FERRARI

Victoria-Elle Harders models fashions by local designers, like this high-low strapless dress ($185) from Tamara Catz. Her lapis jewelry (necklace, $308; rings, $66 each; and earrings,$96) are by RueBelle. See Homegrown Fashions, page 42.

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Departments

14 » Contributors

It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

16 » Publisher’s Note

By Diane Haynes Woodburn

18 » Talk Story

Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ by Lehia Apana, Heidi Pool & Shannon Wianecki

106 » Calendar

What’s happening where, when, and with whom

111 » Who’s Who

Seen making the scene on Maui

114 » A Perfect Day on Maui

JUST COAST Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui. Story by Lehia Apana

DINING In for the long haul: MNKO dining editor Becky Speere (front) and private chef Hiram Peri (back) join Captain Monroe Bryce (middle) on his boat to catch tonight’s dinner. See story on page 86. Photo by Ben Ferrari.

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available starting in March)

REBOOT Writer Kyle Ellison offers tips as he hikes the King’s Trail. See the video at MauiMagazine.net/kings-trail.

86 » Dining Feature

HOOK, LINE & SUPPER Climb aboard a fun fishing charter that helps protect native fish. Recipes included. Story by Becky Speere

92 » Dining Highlights

LOCALS KNOW Expert answers to the question, “Where should I eat today?” Story by Becky Speere

94 » Dining Guide

A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

TA’APE CHEF Hiram Peri demonstrates techniques for cooking this catch of the day at MauiMagazine.net/hook-line-supper. COAST Join us on a virtual tour of West Maui’s sand, sea, and places between at MauiMagazine.net/kayak-cruising. SWEET HARMONY Tune in to this video on why Maui koa may be the next big thing in high-end guitars. MauiMagazine.net/koa-guitars

THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for the latest on what’s happening around Maui County. MauiMagazine.net/maui-events GET SOCIAL

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NOT-SO-SILENT NIGHT The tiny coqui frog is a big problem for isle residents. Hear why at MauiMagazine.net/coqui-frogs.

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

What makes a place home for you? The kitchen is the heart of the home for our foodie family. We can cook together, eat and mingle for hours in the kitchen.—Becky Speere

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch

My books! The last time I moved, I spent weeks packing, hauling and arranging them on my bookcases . . . and an afternoon stuffing my clothes into garbage bags to take to my new abode.—Rita Goldman Decorating with the small tokens that remind me of my childhood, family, milestones, and people I love. —Adelle Lennox

EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Home is where you know your waiter, barista, and bank teller by name. It’s where every mile of roadway spurs memories, and you’re content being right where you are.—Kyle Ellison Somewhere I look forward to retreating to after a long day at work, and a place where I can happily spend the entire day without ever getting bored. —Heidi Pool

Kathy Collins, Kyle Ellison, Heidi Pool, Shannon Wianecki, Paul Wood CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Bryan Berkowitz, Conn Brattain, Larry Cameron, Kyle Ellison, Ben Ferrari, Mieko Horikoshi, Zach Pezzillo, Jonathon Russell, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Forest & Kim Starr, Daniel Sullivan CONTRIBUTING STYLIST Tori Speere CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

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When I think of home, I think of food: the smell of fresh-cut herbs and bread baking. I think of wine and fresh pasta, and neighbors waving hello. A sense of participation in my community is what makes a place a home for me. —Ben Ferrari

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“Aloha,” said the cashier as I gathered my purchases. “Aloha,” I smiled back. Such a small word, and yet the simple greeting elevated my mood, and made me reflect on this, our annual Island Living issue. If I could sum up the island lifestyle in one word, it would be just that: aloha. Words have power. They shape the way we interpret our world and the actions we take. It matters what we say, and what we allow ourselves to hear. As I write this, a new administration has just taken office. As recent demonstrations reveal, we’ve become a divided country, and the stakes are high. We face big questions—not simply whether Congress will repeal the Affordable Care Act, or if a wall will be built—but how we choose to function as a society. Yesterday, President Trump signed an executive order banning people from seven Muslim nations from entering the U.S., based solely on their religion and national origin. The order turns inside out the moral character our country was founded on. Yet the issue is not whom we have elected, but how we as individuals elect to solve our problems: whether we accept the rhetoric of hate and manipulation through fear, or come together through civil discourse and mutual respect. The people of Hawai‘i have faced such issues before. On December 7, 1941, the Imperial Japanese Navy bombed Pearl Harbor; it would remain the most deadly attack on U.S. soil until the Twin Towers fell six decades later. On February 19, 1942, President Franklin Roosevelt signed an executive order requiring the forced relocation of Japanese-Americans to interment camps in remote areas of the country. More than 100,000 men, women and children of Japanese ancestry, more than half of them U.S. citizens, lost their homes, their businesses, their possessions, their communities and their freedom in one of the most flagrant violations of civil liberties in American history. In Hawai‘i, however, relatively few Japanese were interned, thanks in large part to John A. Burns, a Honolulu policeman who then served as a special officer for the U.S. Counterintelligence Corps. Burns argued that Japanese residents were essential to the Islands’ economy, and vouched for their loyalty. (And justifiably so. Tens of thousands of Japanese-Americans enlisted, serving with unparalleled distinction in Europe as members of the all-AJA 100th Battalion and 442nd Regimental Combat Team, which earned more decorations than any other regiment of its size.) Burns’s passionate and persuasive words helped spare most of Hawai‘i’s Japanese from the harsh measures their mainland counterparts suffered. In 1962, Burns was elected governor of the State of Hawai‘i, an office he held until 1974. Those, too, were turbulent times. Nationally, Americans were bitterly divided over the Vietnam War; and in our young state, residents argued over issues of autonomy and the economy. In 1970, Pan Am began regular flights to Honolulu, its jumbo jets bringing thousands of tourists. Longtime residents feared that Hawai‘i would never be the same. At that critical juncture, Gov. Burns called for a convention, “Hawai‘i in the Year 2000,” to help determine the state’s future. More than 700 citizens took part, vehemently debating such issues as development versus the environment, and urbanization versus indigenous culture. In the midst of this fervor, one woman took the floor and stunned the delegates by speaking softly on the meaning of aloha—something, she said, they had forgotten. Born and raised on Maui, Pilahi Paki was a linguist, a teacher, and a respected spiritual leader. “In the next millennium,” she told the delegates, “the world will turn to Hawai‘i in its search for world peace because Hawai‘i has the key . . . and that key is aloha.” So profoundly did Paki’s speech move the delegates that her words later became law: Hawai‘i Revised Statute 5-7.5. The aloha spirit, encompassing such values as humility, generosity, compassion, and love, “was the working philosophy of native Hawaiians,” said Paki, “and [a] gift to the people of Hawai’i.” The statute describes aloha as a life force, and calls upon our elected officials to bring consideration of the aloha spirit into their decision-making process. Perhaps it’s helpful to remember that we’ve been at similar crossroads before. And if we stop the din of rhetoric just long enough to listen, we may hear a small yet clear voice that brings us back to what is essential and true: we need to care for and respect each other. In Hawai‘i, it’s called aloha. And it’s the law. Words are powerful. Let ours be heard—with aloha. Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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Kaluanui Estate circa 1920

The solarium in July 1924, decorated for the wedding of Frances Baldwin and J. Walter Cameron. Today the room hosts lectures, workshops and community art events. Ethel was an accomplished silversmith. At right, her hand-wrought lidded vessel; below, her annealed and hand-raised plate with pineapple decoration.

In this photo from 1918, Frances visits the ruins of a historic sugar mill below the mansion.

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Today we know Kaluanui Estate in Makawao as home to Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, but in 1917, it was home to Ethel and Harry Baldwin, and their daughter, Frances. Harry’s cousin, famed architect Charles W. Dickey, designed the mansion (with significant input from Ethel), incorporating Mediterranean-inspired elements popular at that time: red-tile roof, arched windows, stucco exterior, and an expansive courtyard. The twenty-five-acre property was once the site of East Maui Plantation Company. Kaluanui, Hawaiian for “the big pit,” was also the name of the surrounding area, and likely referred to adjacent Māliko Gulch. Ethel possessed a talent for the creative arts: crocheting, knitting, painting, ceramics, drawing, and later silversmithing, which she learned in San Francisco. She also enjoyed tending her abundant flower gardens. Laurel Murphy, a Baldwin Family biographer, says Ethel provided cut flowers for services at Makawao Union Church every Sunday. “Ethel was also a consummate hostess, creating luncheons based on color-coordinated themes, like her ‘white theme,’ where she served squab and vanilla ice cream on crystal dishes, and surrounded her guests with fragrant white flowers from her garden.” Harry was one of the first persons on Maui to own an automobile. “When Harry and Ethel moved into Kaluanui, he had a Stutz Bearcat sports car—which Frances drove to high school a couple of times, picking up friends along the way, and giving them a thrill,” says Laurel. Ethel was deeply involved in communityimprovement projects, and used Kaluanui’s solarium as her office. Wanting to form a soci-

COURTESY OF MAIZIE SANFORD-CAMERON/HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER

A Grand Dame Turns 100

TALK STORY

ety of like-minded artists, she and Frances founded Hui No‘eau in 1934. The name loosely translates as “skillful club”; members met at Kaluanui for art lessons and lectures. When membership outgrew the estate, “The Hui” moved to the old Kahului Fairgrounds. During World War II, Harry and Ethel hosted dinners at the estate for officers stationed Upcountry. “Many Sundays, Brigadier General Robert Mittelstaedt and his aides visited Kaluanui for a horseback ride through the pineapple fields and, afterwards, dinner,” says Laurel. Four years after Harry’s death in 1946, Ethel left Kaluanui. The property eventually became a holding of Maui Land & Pineapple Company, which was managed by Ethel and Harry’s grandson, Colin Cameron. For nearly two decades, the mansion housed presidents of Pā‘ia’s Maunaolu College, but in the early seventies, it stood vacant, until Colin offered to lease the property to The

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Hui, now a registered nonprofit, for $1 a year. Colin died in 1992. In 2005, Maui Land & Pineapple’s managers decided to divest the company of real estate unrelated to the core business, and entered into an agreement to sell Kaluanui to a couple from Texas. The Hui’s board and staff, horrified by the thought of losing the organization’s beloved home, launched a grass-roots capital campaign to “Save the Hui—Buy Kaluanui,” and raised sufficient funds to place an offer on the property. When the Texas couple learned how passionately the Maui community wanted to preserve the estate for Hui No‘eau, they graciously exited the purchase agreement, and The Hui became the proud owner of Kaluanui. Nowadays, the public is welcome to explore the historic estate and imagine it as it was a hundred years ago, when Harry and Ethel first moved into their new home. The main house holds a gallery in what

was once the Baldwins’ living room; here, The Hui displays up to eight community art exhibits each year. A history room occupies the former maid’s quarters, with memorable artifacts relating to Kaluanui and Upcountry Maui. Harry’s study is now a gallery shop, featuring works by local artists. Several of the estate’s outbuildings serve as open studios, where artists and students hone their craft, and welcome drop-in visitors. (The Hui conducts a variety of art classes for all ages, including some that are a single session.) Visit, and you can take a guided or self-guided tour. Kaluanui is also available for weddings and other special events. The estate is open daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Find more information at HuiNoeau. com.—Heidi Pool Laurel Murphy is a Maui author whose forthcoming book spans five generations of the Baldwin Family on Maui.

COURTESY OF MAIZIE SANFORD-CAMERON/HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER

Clockwise from top left: Ethel descends the staircase in this 1950s photo; the lamp is long gone, but the stained-glass window behind her still remains. What’s now Hui No‘eau’s gallery was once the living room, shown here in July 1924; the doors at left lead to the solarium. The old courtyard doubles, these days, as a reception area. Harry Baldwin, circa 1930; the steps lead from the solarium to a formal reflecting pool.

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TALK STORY day in the life

Frog Busters

Story by Lehia Apana Photo by Ryan Siphers

NAME: Aja Akuna TITLE: Field Crew Leader, Maui Invasive Species Committee (M.I.S.C.)

KILLING THEM SOFTLY: The team uses high-pressure hoses to douse the landscape with citric acid, a common food additive that the EPA deems safe for environmental use. For more targeted sweeps, there are handheld and backpack sprayers. “Sometimes we’re working at manicured mansions to get rid of a few frogs; other times we’re in a gulch packed with strawberry guava, cane grass, and all kinds of other stuff you don’t want to be going through,” says Akuna, adding that rough terrain means that the crew must forge a path with chainsaws and machetes to reach their target. The frogs have no natural predator in the Islands, and a single female can produce up to seventy-five eggs every two or three months. “It’s a physical job, but the mental part is even tougher,” Akuna says. “We’ve worked in areas where it seems like we’ve gotten the frogs under control, only to come back later and have it sound just like it did before.” CRITICAL MASS: While the Māliko Gulch area is the greatest threat, Akuna and her team have been following the tiny croaker across the island. “We’ve cleared areas from Nāpili to Hāna and everywhere between. If it wasn’t for MISC, there would be frogs everywhere,” she says, before offering a warning: “We’re at a critical point right now where we really need to take control of the situation, but I’m hopeful. I wouldn’t be here if I didn’t think we were making a difference.”

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Jeepers peepers: At only about the size of a quarter, coqui frogs are extremely hard to spot, but all too easy to hear. Catch a video at MauiMagazine.net/coqui-frogs.

INSET: FOREST & KIM STARR

ENDANGERING SPECIES: Several nights a week, Aja Akuna goes hunting. Donning a headlamp and equipped with a sprayer and 1,000 gallons of citric acid mixture, she combs through the darkness in search of public enemy number one: the illusive and invasive coqui frog. This teeny amphibian has overwhelmed large swathes of the Big Island, threatening fragile ecosystems by gorging on insects that are food for many native birds. The frogs are also a potential food source if (some say when) brown tree snakes are accidentally introduced to Hawai‘i. Plus, they’re downright annoying. A single male frog can emit an eighty- to ninety-decibel shriek, roughly as loud as a blender or garbage disposal. Akuna’s five-person team is tasked with controlling Maui’s coqui frog population, mostly in Māliko Gulch on Maui’s north shore. “It’s so loud down there that you’ll get a headache—you can’t escape it,” Akuna says.

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TALK STORY in season

Springtime on the mainland is marked by the resurgence of flowers. One by one the crocus, daffodil, and narcissus push forth from the frostbitten ground and open bright faces to the warming sun. The bare branches of the hydrangea, that popular deciduous shrub, suddenly grow flush with serrated leaves and pom-pom flowers. While many of these harbingers of spring are absent from the Hawaiian Islands, the archipelago does have its very own endemic hydrangea: Broussaisia arguta, the lovely kanawao. Beautiful and distinctive kanawao shrubs decorate rain forests across Hawai‘i. The understory plant’s leaves are recognizably those of a hydrangea, though a little larger and more leathery than the foliage found on their domesticated cousins. Like common hydrangea cultivars, their blossoms range from creamy yellow to magenta, lavender, and blue, with many shades in between—but the resemblance stops there. Rather than the flat, papery petals found in flower shops worldwide, Hawaiian hydrangeas have clusters of star-shaped blooms spouting profusions of long stamens. Nestled

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within a rosette of leaves, the showy native blossom looks much like a firework frozen in time. Also unlike its mainland counterparts, kanawao is both evergreen and dioecious: it blooms year-round, and it manifests as either male or female. Many rare Hawaiian fauna can be found crawling about this common forest plant. Happy faced spiders often cling to its stems, and endemic tree snails crawl along its leaves, grazing on fungus. Kiwikiu, the endangered Maui parrotbill, loves to dig its hooked bill into ripe kanawao fruits in search of juicy grubs. Birds aren’t the only ones known to snack on the berries, either. According to Hawaiian oral tradition, kanawao symbolizes fertility. Revered ethnologist Mary Kawena Pukui reported that Hawaiians ate the fruits to increase their chances of conception; they referred to increase in chiefs as a fruiting kanawao. To see this beauty in the wild, take a hike up the Waihe‘e Ridge Trail or visit The Nature Conservancy’s Waikamoi Preserve. —Shannon Wianecki

FOREST & KIM STARR

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I O N T H E 26

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ADVENTURE | HAWAIIAN SOUL

A Near Kahikinui, sunset illuminates a section of trail—a geometric feat traversing the lava wilderness.

I Story by KYLE ELLISON Photography by DANIEL SULLIVAN

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

ADVENTURE | HAWAIIAN SOUL

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Sullivan’s book captures scenes of the King’s Trail like these in Keone‘ō‘io. Opposite page, clockwise from top: A swing invites a moment’s rest. A fisherman’s shrine stands as a reminder of the fertile fishing grounds that once supported a village. A feral goat’s undisturbed remains lie in silent memoriam. Above: Early missionaries called this section of trail “the road built by sin.”

The words beat in my head like a drum: “A legend in stone . . . a legend in stone . . . the King’s Trail is a legend in stone.” It’s a phrase William Merwin, two-time U.S. poet laureate, penned in the foreword of The Maui Coast—Legacy of the King’s Highway, a book by photographer Daniel Sullivan, who spent nine-and-a-half days circumnavigating Maui in search of the ancient trail. The words are also particularly fitting, as I find myself hiking a desolate plain of ‘a‘ā—jagged lava rock—crossing a rolling sea of stones on Maui’s southwest coast as I retrace Sullivan’s steps. The story of the trail begins in the sixteenth century, when Pi‘ilani became the first ruler to unify Maui’s twelve moku (districts). Peace and prosperity flourished on the island during Pi‘ilani’s reign, considered a golden age of construction and growth. He ordered a footpath built around the island, and had it marked with smooth ‘ili‘ili stones that cast a bluish hue. While Sullivan was searching for sections of trail—particularly in East Maui—locals would always tell him the same thing: “Look for the blue stones.” Here in Keone‘ō‘io, however, near ‘Āhihi Kīna‘u Natural Area Reserve, I see millions of stones in every direction—but none of them are blue. That’s because, in 1830, the governor of Maui, Hoapili, rebuilt this section, widening it to accommodate horses, which had arrived with the Europeans. Historians speculate that there might have

been concern over ‘ili‘ili stones causing the horses to slip; instead, Hoapili had the trail marked with impressive lava-rock curbs. Accounts from early missionaries suggest that, when patches of pili grass were laid on the trail, the ground was soft and wide enough for horses to canter by moonlight. Today those rocks tear sneakers to shreds—which is why I’m wearing my hiking boots. In his 1851 book, Life in the Sandwich Islands, the Reverend Henry T. Cheever called Hoapili’s trail “the noblest and best Hawaiian work of internal improvement I have anywhere seen . . . it is as great a work for Hawaiians, as digging the Erie Canal to Americans.” Retired Maui forester Bob Hobdy, who has studied the area in depth, calls it “awesome engineering.” I, too, admire the curbs and the perfectly parallel lines, but as I hike, I think of the hands that placed these stones—and their toil beneath the hot sun. Shade is a rare and fickle companion in this desolate moonscape, which Rev. Cheever labeled “a chaos of blackened lava.” This stretch is where Sullivan ran out of water, and was forced to hike inland up to the highway to flag down a car for help. He told me he’d brought two Camelbaks of water, so I’d brought enough to fill three. Even though I’d started before sunrise—as Sullivan did when hiking—the midday sun now shines overhead, and the thought of lifting jagged rocks seems like cruel and unusual punishment. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

Turns out, it was: Hoapili was one of Maui’s earliest Christian converts, and he ordered the work be done by adulterers; missionaries named it “the road built by sin.” Early Hawaiians knew this coast as a kua‘āina, an area that archaeologist Patrick Vinton Kirch calls “a dry, less desirable hinterland, where much skill and hard work were required to wrest a living from the landscape.” My mouth is parched just hiking here—much less trying to live here—and the only sound is the howl of the wind as it whips through tufts of dry grass. The bones of feral goats lie sun-bleached atop the rocks, and, save for the white-tailed tropicbirds that ride above on the breeze, the land is completely devoid of life—a coastline frozen in time.

Despite the harsh living conditions, villagers inhabited this isolated coast through the middle of the nineteenth century, and dozens of archaeological sites spring up from the side of the trail. There are ahu, or shrines, homesites, heiau (temples), and rocks that were used to dry fish; as I look at an L-shaped, chest-high wall, constructed to block out the wind, I think of something Scott Fisher had said when we’d searched for sections of the trail by Nu‘u Bay just a couple days before. . . . As the executive director for Hawaiian Islands Land Trust, Fisher helps manage eighty-two acres of protected land in Kaupō, along what’s often called the “back road” to Hāna. He points to an L-shaped structure and tells me, “This would have been a bed.” Considering that the ground is covered in rocks, seeing it as a Top: The trail rewards those who brave the hike with less-well-known views of Haleakalā’s windswept landscape. Bottom: In the ruins of Uliuli, a village dating back to the fifteenth century, the rock-wall remains of a great chief’s house still overlook the coast.

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ADVENTURE | HAWAIIAN SOUL

At Kahikinui, the black of a long-ago lava flow yields to a cobalt and turquoise sea. Below: Rock formations are an otherworldly sculpture on the coast near Nu‘u.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

ADVENTURE | HAWAIIAN SOUL resting place takes some imagination. Seeing the village at all, in fact, requires creative vision, since grazing cattle, an overgrowth of kiawe trees, and a deadly tsunami in 1946 all greatly altered the landscape. Strolling the grounds of the Nu‘u property—which is open to the public—is like staring at one of those Magic Eye books where images are hidden in patterns; at first you don’t see the picture, but eventually it comes into focus. Walking the grounds with Fisher helps, since he’s able to pick up on details. He points out a sprig of nonnative basil growing right by a long, straight curb—indicative of someone planting here on the road built by Hoapili.

In Hāna, the trail crosses the famed black-sand beach at Wai‘ānapanapa State Park. Legend says that Keli‘imalolo, Maui’s fastest trail runner, once jumped ashore here and ran twenty miles, returning before his companions had finished washing the seawater out of their canoes.

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“If I was looking for a village, I’d look for basil,” he says as he picks off a leaf. The Hawaiians loved the aroma and flavor, and even though 150 years have passed since anyone lived here, the basil is still there, growing wild amidst the crumbling walls. On a one-hour walk through the property, Fisher shows me the original Pi‘ilani Trail, embedded with ‘ili‘ili, as well as the wider Hoapili Trail with its impressively engineered walls. At some points the two join into one before going their separate ways, like a double helix that maps the D.N.A. of the area’s past. Two days after the skin-scorching trek in Keone‘ō‘io, I drive to Hāna’s Wai‘ānapanapa State Park. Here in this lush, East Maui

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

ADVENTURE | HAWAIIAN SOUL

At Wai‘ānapanapa, a section of the trail leads down to the ruins of Ohala heiau.

A cave at Wai‘ānapanapa’s Pailoa Bay opens onto this view of the ocean, like a portal to another world.

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After the introduction of horses, Hoapili had sections of the King’s Trail widened, and ‘ili‘ili replaced with less slippery rock curbs. But here in Wai‘ānapanapa, the blueish stones still mark the way.

KEONE‘Ō‘IO

Steps carved into the cliff continue the trail above Wai‘ānapanapa’s black-sand beach.

IF YOU GO

Distance: 5 miles round trip | Duration: 2–3 hours. Finding the Trailhead: Follow Mākena Road south from Wailea until it dead-ends in a parking lot at Keone‘ō‘io (La Pérouse Bay). Trailhead begins at the parking lot. Tips: The trail is strenuous, and the sun can be relentless. Start early in the day, and bring sunscreen, hiking boots, and lots of water. The public section of the trail finishes at Kanaio Beach.

NU‘U

Distance: 1 mile round trip | Duration: 30 minutes to 1 hour Finding the Trailhead: The trailhead is located on Pi‘ilani Highway between ‘Ulupalakua and Kaupō. From central or south Maui, the journey begins Upcountry: Take Haleakalā Highway (Route 37) through Kula, Kēōkea and ‘Ulupalakua, where it becomes Pi‘ilani Highway (Route 31). At mile marker 31; look for the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust sign and metal gate on the makai (ocean side) of the road. Park on the side of the road and walk around the gate. Tips: Bring food, water, and at least half a tank of gas.

WAI‘ĀNAPANAPA STATE PARK

Distance: 1.4 miles round trip from park to Hāna Airport; 6 miles round trip from park to Waikoloa. | Duration: 1–3 hours Finding the Trailhead: Trail begins at the parking lot at Wai‘ānapanapa State Park. A sign by the stairs leading down to the beach offers hiking distances and directions. place known best for its black-sand beach, nearly four miles of the Pi‘ilani Trail run right along the coast. The ‘ili‘ili stones are more prominent here, and fallen hala leaves form a soft padding that’s easier on the knees. It’s believed this section was completed during the reign of Kiha-a-Pi‘ilani, one of Pi‘ilani’s two sons who succeeded him after his death. When describing this section of trail in his book, Sullivan tells of ancient messengers, kūkini—specially trained runners who could cross the island in a single day by following the narrow path. There are many stories of ways kūkini would test their strength and speed, such as being handed a live fish, and needing to reach a certain village before the fish stopped wriggling. Hiking the part of the trail that runs south from the park, I hug a coastline where palm trees hang over turbulent cobalt bays; sea spray propelled by the wind-driven waves blows vertically up the cliffs. Within fifteen minutes, the Ohala heiau suddenly comes into view. Standing in front of the ancient temple, I wish that more of this trail remained, and that more of its tales had been told; I wish the legend of the King’s Trail weren’t hidden beneath so much stone.

INSPIRED BY EDDIE PU, A park ranger and native Hawaiian who circled Maui on foot each year for nearly thirty years, Daniel Sullivan decided to seek out the trail—which he feared, with Pu’s death in 2012, was one step closer to becoming forgotten. Sullivóan calls the trail “a living link to the ancient Hawaiian culture,” but as modern roads, developments, and time erode its original path, “it’s slipping away . . . the story is fragmented.” He hopes his book is “a call to action to fight for its preservation.” “What amazes me,” says Sullivan, “is that it isn’t more protected. It should be a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s an ancient culture contained within the landscape, and the book is an effort to capture the King’s Highway before it vanishes completely.” Sullivan’s book is available at his gallery, Indigo Pā‘ia, and online at DanielSullivanPhotography.com. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

The Palm Whisperer Story by SHANNON WIANECKI | Photography by ZACH PEZZILLO

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ISLAND PORTRAIT

Palm reader: William S. Merwin has merged his love of poetry and plants, creating The Merwin Conservancy, a palm forest and future retreat for botanists and writers. Here, potting shelves teem with new life: keiki palms from around the world, including a species that was only recently discovered.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

ISLAND PORTRAIT

Witness I want to tell what the forests were like I will have to speak in a forgotten language

surface that had been abused by human ‘improvement.’” Merwin set to work in the dry streambed, crawling through the Christmas berry with a handsaw. “He wanted to free the stream,” says Erickson. Originally Merwin intended to restore the landscape with native species, but nearly every one of his first plantings perished. Only the loulu, or Hawaiian fan palms, survived. So he revised his plan. During rainy spells he planted at least one palm a day. From the start, the garden was a self-contained system, as was the poet’s house, which he designed and built into the hillside. Three cisterns collect rainwater, and solar panels provide power. The poet devoted his mornings to meditating and writing, and his afternoons to planting and weeding. He eschewed fertilizers and big machinery, preferring hand tools and a watering can. The green waste he composted in heaping bio-piles. Over the years, Merwin and his wife, Paula, planted thousands of trees, many of them endangered species. They successfully cultivated fourteen of the nineteen endemic Pritchardias, or Hawaiian fan palms. Their nearlynineteen-acre botanical garden is now world-class, “one of the planet’s great palm collections,” according to Chipper Wichman of the National Tropical Botanical Garden. Wichman worked with world palm authority Dr. John

“There’s a language of trees and William speaks it. He’s a palm whisperer.” Olin Erickson leads a handful of visitors down a steep, muddy trail, stopping to share anecdotes about his boss, William S. Merwin, the former U.S. poet laureate who planted this palm forest on Maui’s north shore. Erickson pushes back an ambitious frond to allow the group to pass beneath. “Whenever we walked through the garden,” he says, “William would look at a palm and get this smile on his face. He’d go up and touch it, like shaking its hand, and checking its pulse. He’d tell me a little story about where he got it, just like introducing me to a friend.” Indeed, Merwin’s forest is composed of friends: seeds collected from around the world, traded among fellow growers, nurtured, hand-watered, and now grown twenty, thirty, or even forty feet tall. It’s a cathedral of greens. Angular fronds filter gem-toned light into the grove. Seeds as bright and round as Bedouin beads dangle from slender trunks, while other trees brandish nine-inch thorns— evolutionary throwbacks to the dinosaur age. When Merwin purchased this property in 1977, it was barren, except for a few scraggly mangoes and a rash of invasive Christmas berry. A succession of failed agricultural ventures had utterly depleted the soil. Wasted and remote, the land was exactly what he wanted. It offered, in the poet’s own words, “a chance to try to restore a bit of the earth’s

Above: The spectacular fan palm Johannesteijsmannia altifrons is threatened in its native habitat—the rainforests of Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Palms come in all shapes, sizes, and heights, and can grow to 200 feet tall. William Merwin is at home in the palm forest, both literally and figuratively. Each plant is tagged and logged onto a database at MerwinConservancy.org. Excerpts from William Merwin’s poems “Witness” and “Place” appear in the collection The Rain in the Trees, which is published by Knopf, as is the book-length narrative The Folding Cliffs. “Questions to Tourists Stopped by a Pineapple Field” appears in the National Book Award-winning collection Migration, published by Copper Canyon Press and used by permission of the Wylie Agency.

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TOP RIGHT: LARRY CAMERON

Dramsfield and staff from London’s Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, to catalog the rare specimens in Merwin’s forest. The collection now exists online as a searchable database. Erickson gathers his group beneath one of the rarest trees: Hyophorbe indica from Madagascar. “Three amateurs saved this species from extinction,” he says. After the palm disappeared from its native environment, Merwin consulted with two fellow palm growers. They searched their greenhouses and found H. indica seedlings they’d stashed long before. Merwin’s tree eventually produced a cluster of bright orange seeds; he was able to share them and help reintroduce the species. Thirteen years ago, when Erickson interviewed for a gardening job here, he had no clue who Merwin was. “He was waiting for me in boots, work belt, machete and a smirk,” remembers Erikson. “He sized me up and showed me a corner of the garden. My responsibilities grew from there.” Erickson adopted Merwin’s gardening techniques and much of his philosophy. “He’s such an internationally respected person, like a rock star hidden away in this little gem of a property,” says Erickson. “A lot of his neighbors don’t know who he is, and that’s how he likes it.” While perhaps little known in his own neighborhood, Merwin is recognized beyond Hawai‘i as one of the greatest living poets. Now in his ninetieth year, he no longer makes public appearances, though his poems—and now his palms—speak for him. Born in New York in 1927, Merwin spent his childhood in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. His career as gadfly began at age three, when he protested the cutting of an apple tree in his parents’ backyard. He Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

ISLAND PORTRAIT

Above: Daniel Sullivan shares a laugh with William and Paula Merwin at the first Green Room event in August 2013. (Merwin penned the introduction to Sullivan’s book The Maui Coast—Legacy of the King’s Highway, featured in this issue on page 26.) Held on Maui throughout the year, the literary salon attracts esteemed speakers, including the award-winning poet and author Michael Ondaatje (top right), perhaps best known for his novel The English Patient; and award-winning poet, essayist and translator Jane Hirshfield (bottom right), chancellor at the Academy of American Poets.

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the Hawaiian stilt, and tells them right away what they have come to, and what the place is turning into.” Ouch. He was gentler in his published writings, though no less provocative. In his poem “Questions to Tourists Stopped by a Pineapple Field,” he asks: What do you think was here before the pineapple fields would you suppose that the fields represent an improvement do you feel hurried on your vacation are you getting your money’s worth The poem’s genius lies in its tender probing of the intersection between tourism and colonialism. Yes, islanders are obliged to be hospitable, but that doesn’t erase centuries of muted resentment, regret, and rage. In his gorgeous epic The Folding Cliffs, Merwin tackled an acutely painful episode in Hawai‘i’s history: the exile of leprosy patients to Kalaupapa. He spent a decade polishing the story of Ko‘olau, the famous Hawaiian outlaw who hid from Territorial sheriffs rather than be banished. In chapter three, Merwin wove in couplets clearly inspired by the Kumulipo, the Hawaiian creation chant. Born in a dark wave the fragrance of red seaweed born on the land the shore grass hissing while the night slips through a narrow place a man is born for the narrows a woman is born for where the waters open The haunting, intimate tale reflects Merwin’s deep understanding and love of the Hawaiian psyche. The New York Times called the narrative “ravishing,” while Dr. Pualani Kanahele, a revered kupuna (elder)

LEFT: MERWIN CONSERVANCY; RIGHT (2): BRYAN BERKOWITZ

has never stopped interrogating people’s relationship to their natural environment. During his undergraduate studies at Princeton, Merwin visited Ezra Pound in a sanatorium. The elder poet advised the student to “read the seeds, not the twigs of poetry,” write seventy-five lines a day, and master English by translating foreign literature. Merwin did so, translating works from a dozen languages, including French, Spanish, Sanskrit, Japanese, Middle English and Quechua. Merwin lived for periods in New York City and Chiapas, and owned a farmhouse in Southern France. He tutored English poet Robert Graves’s son in Majorca and befriended Ted Hughes and Sylvia Plath in London. All the while, he wrote book after book of poems praised as visionary, spare, and enigmatic. He collected nearly every important prize for poetry. He won his first of two Pulitzers in 1971, and caught flak for donating the prize money to Viet Nam draft resisters. Merwin came to Hawai‘i to study Zen Buddhism under the tutelage of Robert Aitken. The poet was so taken by the meditative practice that he moved into a leaky shack above Aitken’s house in Hā‘iku. He arrived in 1976—the same year the Hawaiian cultural renaissance began in earnest. That January, activists protested the military’s bombardment of Kaho‘olawe by illegally occupying the island. Later that summer, the Polynesian Voyaging Society sailed from Honolua Bay to Tahiti aboard a double-hulled canoe, proving that Polynesians ranked among history’s greatest navigators. Kanaka maoli (native Hawaiians) were reclaiming their ancestral strengths and finding new political voices. Merwin not only witnessed this revolution, he participated. When restoration efforts began on Kaho‘olawe, he volunteered several times. In 1990, he helped found Environment Hawai‘i, a monthly newsletter that serves as a clarion voice for native ecosystems. He and newsletter editor Patricia Tummons sponsored water-rights conferences in three of Hawai‘i’s most contested valleys: Waipi‘o on Hawai‘i Island, Ke‘anae on Maui, and Waiāhole on O‘ahu. At Waiāhole, Merwin joined two hundred Hawaiian farmers in rebuilding an ancient lo‘i kalo (taro patch). In 1991, the poet testified against a proposal to expand Kahului Airport, addressing Maui County councilmembers with savage eloquence. He praised Maui as “a place of rare beauty, with a character and silence,” yet tainted by the smell of the sewage treatment plant “that greets visitors to Kahului as they pass one of the last pathetic nesting grounds of

and kumu hula (hula teacher), applauded the author’s grasp of Hawaiian character. In 2010, Merwin became the seventeenth U.S. poet laureate. He accepted the honor and its obligatory public appearances in order to spread his favorite gospel: that humans belong to nature, not the other way around. To that end, he permanently protected the palm forest with a conservation easement and founded the Merwin Conservancy. In addition to regular tours of the forest, the Conservancy hosts the Green Room, a literary salon at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center featuring the poet’s internationally renowned friends and colleagues. Luminaries such as Terry Tempest Williams, Barry Lopez, and Michael Ondaatje have appeared on the intimate stage—a marvelous boon for the Maui community. Two years ago, Merwin’s eyesight began to fail. He quit giving interviews. He visits the furthest reaches of the palm forest less frequently. He hasn’t stopped writing, however. He dictates poems in near-finished form to his wife and friends. Last year he published two more books, Garden Time and What Is a Garden? Prolific throughout his life, he plans to be equally generous in his passing. He and Paula determined that, when they are gone, their home will become a retreat for writers. Erickson glances up towards his boss’s shaded sanctuary and smiles. “He’s accomplished his mission,” he says. “It’s nice to be a part of it.” On the last day of the world I would want to plant a tree —excerpted from the poem “Place”

ENGAGE WITH THE MERWIN CONSERVANCY

HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER

Celebrating 100 Years of Kaluanui in 2017!

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Ethical, Responsible, Independent Financial Planning and Investment Management

Follow the Conservancy’s blog for a weekly poem, facts about palms, and opportunities to tour the palm forest. MerwinConservancy.org; 808-579-8876

Alice McDermott,

ATTEND A GREEN ROOM EVENT

Barry Hyman,

On April 7, the salon hosts Hope Jahren, professor of geobiology and author of the book Lab Girl, described by The New York Times as a “road map to the secret life of plants.” For a schedule of Green Room events, visit MerwinConservancy.org/ the-green-room.

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444 Hana Highway, Suite D, Kahului, Hawaii 96732 808 871 1006 | Toll-free 888 243 8220 fimg-hawaii@fimg.net | www.fimg.net

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Who better to know how to live in style on an island than local designers?

Stylist: Tori Speere Photographer: Ben Ferrari Art Director: John Giordani Hair & Makeup: Ry-n Shimabuku Model: Victoria-Elle Harders Assistants: Amber Caires & Kamehana Lee Location: Maui Tropical Plantation

Retail Guide page 108

A ZEST FOR STYLE Vintage beaded jacket, $169, by and at Salt on the Rocks. Troy cutout stretch jersey sports bra by Olympia Activewear, $80 at Driftwood. Pleated high-waisted skirt, $139, by and at Tamara Catz. Urban Ice necklace, $700, and cuff, $600, by and at Roberta-Ann Weisenburg. Orbit cuff, $295, by and at UrbanOcean Designs. Aquamarine apatite and chrysoprase cascade hoop earrings, $190, by and at RueBelle.

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ISLAND STYLE

GARDEN VARIETY Zuma jacket, $295; fire opal and lapis necklace, $295; azurite geode necklace, $350; by and at Wings Hawaii. Maliko dress by Acacia, $168; Mahina hoop earrings by Jasmine Honey, $120; both at Driftwood. Asset turquoise beaded bracelet by Origin Z, $65 at Holiday & Co. Spotted leather clutch, $94, and Lynda tote, $252, both by Alola, at Hale Zen. Abeo sandals in mushroom, $149 at The Walking Co. Moon journal, $10, by and at Kealopiko. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

ISLAND STYLE

FIELD NOTES Racer tank, $105; floral trousers, $148; by and at Tamara Catz. Gold-toed clogs by Calou, $189 at Collections Maui. Handwoven towel by The Maui Mercer, $42 at Pearl Butik. Neely puka necklace by Puka Perri, $420 at Driftwood. Flattened oval earrings by Hula Hoops Maui, $70 at Designing Wahine. Citrine ring by Zella Jewelry, $690 at The Mercantile.

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TROPICAL ROOTS Âť Santiago dress, $198 at Wings Hawaii. Asset jade and gold stone tassel earrings by Origin Z, $128 at Holiday & Co. Bee necklace, $280; teardrop necklace, $920; by Zella Jewelry, at The Mercantile. Farm-fresh veggies from Kumu Farms.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

STRUCTURAL BEAUTY Monarch butterfly one-piece bathing suit, $125, by and at Hanu Hawaii. Zella maxi skirt, $185, by and at Sugarhigh Lovestoned. Mala necklace by Skelefin Studio, $150 at Hui Noâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;eau Visual Arts Center. Maui Greensmithâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kalo earrings, $88, and brass bangles, $48 at Holiday & Co.

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ISLAND STYLE TRUCK FARM Ryanne swing tank, $54; patchwork jeans, $88; Moonstone moonphase earrings, $300; at Wings Hawaii. Floral scarf, $24, by and at Blue Ginger. Nautical knots bracelet with freshwater pearls, $60, by and at Gypsea Sol Maui. White-fringed hat by Tracy Watts, $245 at The Mercantile. Revolver clog by Free People, $180 at Driftwood. Crescent purse, $588, by Origin Z Leather.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

ISLAND BUSINESS | MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

Haleakala Ranch goes out on a limb to conserve native forest—by harvesting trees to transform into guitars.

Reforestation requires grit of a higher order. Here, Haleakala Ranch land manager Jordan Jokiel hauls koa seedlings to a planting site. Inset: This thirtyyear-old koa is typical of the trees being culled and sold—none from the wild, endemic forest.

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Like many of Hawai‘i’s other native species, Acacia koa can vary significantly from place to place, so the ranch tests seed sources and measures growth performance. The taller trees at left date to 2007, those on the right to 2014. WEB EXCLUSIVE: Tune in to a video at MauiMagazine.net/ koa-guitars.

COURTESY OF PANIOLO TONEWOODS/HALEAKALA RANCH

Story by Paul Wood

Maui has places where a person can get drenched and sunburned at the same time, and this is one of them—steeply pitched pastureland high above the habitation line on the wet side of Haleakalā. The wind is blasting across the slopes, shooting buckets of thick mist with each surge. We’re at the top edge of an eight-acre grove of koa trees, and deep in the grove chainsaws are whining and treetops are wobbling and falling. Backhoes haul trunks out of the grove, and a Kubota track-loader is lifting three-foot-diameter koa hunks and placing them in heavy-duty flatbeds, which sway under the sudden weight. The grove stands on land owned by Haleakala Ranch, and ranch land manager Jordan Jokiel watches the harvest approvingly. The workers are culling, not clear-cutting, the grove. Still, it seems ironic. In the cause of reforestation, the ranch is felling trees. Koa is the parent, or foundational, species of the primordial Hawaiian forest, most of which is now gone. For environmental reasons, the ranch is determined to protect its “heritage lands”—undamaged forests—and to reforest portions of its pastureland. This work (fencing, planting, protecting) is expensive. If the ranch could market some select koa timbers, it could convert the profits into woodlands. Trouble is, this morning’s noisy grove, planted as an experiment thirty years ago, grew low and bushy. The ranch considered this thirty-five-acre experiment to be pleasing, but not valuable. Then two entrepreneurs came calling—Bob Taylor, cofounder and president of Taylor Guitars, and his longtime associate Steve McMinn, founder of Pacific Rim Tonewoods. Taylor started making acoustic guitars forty-two years ago at the rate of ten per year. Last year his factory, in El Cajon, California, produced 165,000 instruments, 5,000 of them with koa. The expertise of McMinn’s Washington State company is finding and milling woods that possess the acoustical qualities and beauty suited to the crafting of fine stringed instruments. Both men believe that the essential counterpart to harvesting trees is planting them. “Steve and I are looking ahead a century,” says Taylor. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

ISLAND BUSINESS | MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

Age sixty-two and bespectacled, he’s not what you’d call a lumberjack in appearance, but he has a bounce-on-your-toes enthusiasm. The ranch, he says, previously considered the groves to be “valueless. Then I came in and said we can turn this into real money for everybody.” The reason: you don’t need long timbers to make a guitar. He says, “Hawai‘i could be a breadbasket of good timbers, not just koa. You have open land, water, sunlight.” He and McMinn share a very interactive approach to conservation of forest resources. Instead of the “don’t touch it” model, says Taylor, “No, let’s touch it gently and use the money for reforestation.” Yes, said the ranch. Taylor and McMinn have formed a partnership called Paniolo Tonewoods (“paniolo” refers to Hawai‘i’s original cowboys and their innovative guitar stylings), and are working with the ranch and with the cofounders of Native Nursery in Kula. Ethan Romanchak and Jonathan Keyser started growing endemic Hawaiian plants in 2003 on four leased acres. Their neatly framed growing benches are loaded with, among other species, row upon row of redhued koa seedlings in dibble tubes, all from Maui-gathered seeds and destined for rooting on the ranch. In a single recent day, the nurserymen and ranch workers planted 1,100 seedlings that will become three acres of new forest. Jokiel says, “We’re going to keep planting ten to fifteen acres every year.” The ranch has no plans to stop. Barbed-wire fencing is critical for the operation. Cattle—and invasive axis deer—love koa, and over the decades have chewed many

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thousands of forested acres into pastureland. It’s worth asking why any ranching business would want to reverse that trend. Yet Haleakala Ranch owners, who are many and share a deeply rooted Maui history, favor the forests and the conservation of unspoiled lands. Evidence of this is their hiring of Jokiel and of the ranch’s vice president, Scott Meidell. Both men have worked in wilderness preservation and feel an ethical responsibility for their 30,000 acres of East Maui. Also, they care about terrain-wide soil health—koa forests pull rain out of the mists, build soil tilth and fertility, and help the ranch fight its number-one menace, gorse. Gorse is an invasive, land-choking, thorn-bristling shrub that could blanket the upper mountain unless Haleakala Ranch fights it. ( Jokiel says that a ranch with gorse is like a boat with a hole in its hull—“You can’t ignore the problem or else you’ll drown.”) But gorse struggles when it tries to grow in koa groves. Koa is good for the ranch. And now koa, managed, can provide revenue. “Paniolo Tonewoods is one facet of a large program that involves the reintroduction of koa, on a large scale, to our heritage lands,” says Meidell. When Taylor and McMinn showed up, they gave the ranch “a very workable financial model” for doing the right thing—a way to afford the tremendous cost in land and labor for reforestation. “This is really an exciting opportunity,” says Meidell. And besides, “There’s something aesthetically right” about turning this Maui wood into beautiful musical instruments.

COURTESY OF PANIOLO TONEWOODS/HALEAKALA RANCH

Clockwise from top left: For Pacific Tonewood’s Steve McMinn, the quest is for wood that combines outstanding acoustics and beauty. Koa from the ranch’s planted groves gets milled. Native Nursery’s Ethan Romanchak and Jonathan Keyser specialize in plants indigenous to Maui. Bob Taylor holds a guitar of twenty-year-old koa in his left hand. (The other is toon, an introduced member of the mahogany family.) Rooted cuttings from ranch harvests show early success in the reproduction of prized timber.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s Guide to Home & Garden

LIVING

Jim Niess of Maui Architectural Group designed this Mākena home, which won an award in a recent AIA/Maui Chapter competition. Niess and son Peter are two of the architects featured in our Q&A. See a story on this home at MauiMagazine.net/a-place-apart.

TABLE OF CONTENTS ISLE 2 LOVE ENDURES For sixty years, this beach house has proved that home is where the heart lives. By Kathy Collins

ISLE

14 GREAT FINDS FOR YOUR HOME

Fall in love with island living—even if no ocean surrounds you. By Conn Brattain

ISLE

16 ARCHITECTS’ Q&A

Four Maui architects share their insights on how to create the home of your dreams. By Rita Goldman

ISLE

26 BECKY’S BACKYARD

TONY NOVAK-CLIFFORD

Sugarcane is no longer grown commercially in Hawai‘i, but you might want to plant some at home. By Becky Speere

ISLE

28 REAL ESTATE TRENDS

Who better to understand Upcountry properties than a realtor who’s also a fourth-generation Maui rancher? By Diane Haynes Woodburn

Newsstand edition of Island Living contains additional content.

»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain DESIGN & PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Shelby Lynch ADVERTISING SALES 808-242-8331 SALES DIRECTORS Laura Lewark, Cathy Westerberg ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Barbara Geary, Michael Haynes CONTROLLER Kao Kushner E-MAIL ADDRESS Info@MauiMagazine.net

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Eating & Drinking, and Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center magazines

Island Living is published semiannually by Haynes Publishing Group, Inc., 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ©2017 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/ or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 1

LOVE 2 ISLE

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 AT HOME 

For sixty years, despite the odds, this north shore dwelling has proved that home is where the heart lives. Story by Kathy Collins | Photography by Jonathon at JBR LIFE

ENDURES Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 3

 AT HOME 

In this sprawling, sundrenched Spreckelsville beach home, love is everywhere. Literally. It’s the first thing you see as you approach the front lānai, spelled out in eighteeninch-high wooden letters mounted on the wall. 4 ISLE

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Inside, from the spacious kitchen and dining area to each of the three charmingly cheerful bedrooms, “LOVE” is rendered in whimsical wall art. Like colorful Post-It notes on a bulletin board, affirmations of aloha decorate the walls of the children’s bathrooms. Even when the occupants are out for the day, the house seems warm and welcoming, alive with positivity. It’s almost as if the nearly-sixtyyear-old dwelling is celebrating its narrow escape from demolition, grateful for the opportunity to harbor yet another Maui family. Built in 1957, the plantation-style dwelling went through several owners before Jane and Jack Thompson married and took over the home that Jane had lived in since 1975, a year after her parents purchased it. Until Jack’s death in 2011, the couple enjoyed an idyllic island lifestyle, raising their children and, for twenty years, operating a bed and breakfast. “It was always a great family house. Kids coming and going all the time. Our house was open to kids, friends . . . of course, that’s how the

Though it sits on an access road leading to a popular beach, the home feels secluded and peaceful. Sabrina and Kevin created their tropical sanctuary by enclosing the half-acre yard with lush foliage. Neighbors and friends, of course, are always welcome, and are equally comfy on the back (top left) or front lānai (top right), as well as in the refurbished living and dining rooms, which retain the home’s original structure and features.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 5

« AT HOME »

Island tradition and mainland style meet in the kitchen and dining area, where contemporary, casual furnishings merge comfortably with such classic plantation-home elements as extensive cabinetry and countertops, high ceilings and spacious rooms. The added bathtubs and showers are reminiscent of the backyard furo (Japanese baths) common in Hawai‘i’s plantation era.

whole neighborhood was back then. It was, and still is, a special place,” Jane remarks. She sold the house and moved to Kula in 2012, but the quaint charm of Spreckelsville and the desire to be close to dear friends lured her back to the beachside village after a year. She now resides a block away from her former home. Any pangs of wistfulness when she passes the house? Jane says no. It was the perfect place to raise her family and it served them well. “I’m so grateful for having been able to live there for nearly forty years. I hope the [current] family has as much fun in that house as we did.” She’s especially pleased that owners Kevin and

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Sabrina changed their minds about razing the structure. “We bought it with the intention of tearing it down,” says Sabrina, “but the longer we were in here, the more we wanted to save it. . . . We decided to use what was here and build on that. We wanted to keep it beachy and casual, keep the kama‘āina feel.” With a long-held passion and talent for interior design, Sabrina knew exactly what she wanted, and hired contractor Frank Zajac and Aloha Remodeling and Construction to carry out her plans. They significantly increased the recreation/entertainment space, extended the master bathroom, added a couple of outdoor baths and converted a

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« AT HOME »

“Sabrina wanted an old-fashioned, beach-style house,” says contractor Frank Zajac. “She did all the decorating and designing herself.” Sabrina planned the transformation in increments, which allowed her to gradually acquire the perfect furnishings for each room. “Every time they went on vacation, she’d have a project for us to work on.”

fourth bedroom into a laundry. Wherever possible, Aloha Remodeling restored and enhanced the home’s original features, rather than replacing them; in the kitchen, modern appliances fit in perfectly with the old plantation-home drainboard and cupboards. “Frank was wonderful,” Sabrina enthuses. “I just told him what I wanted, and he did the work whenever we left on vacation.” Over three summers and a couple of Christmas and spring breaks, Sabrina saw her vision realized. The home has retained the relaxed, tropical charm of sweeter, simpler days gone by. Realtor Martin Lenny, also a neighbor, was pleased

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to see new life given to the beloved abode. When it had seemed destined for destruction, he had lamented not being able to purchase it himself. “It’s amazing what they’ve done,” he says. “We’re so happy that they decided not to tear down this wonderful house and preserve it instead.” As she tells it, Sabrina fell in love with Maui on her first visit, six years ago. “I was riding my bicycle up Baldwin Avenue, loving the beauty of this island. I passed Montessori [School of Maui] and thought, ‘This is where I want to send my children to school.’ Then it started to sprinkle, and this may sound silly, but I felt I was being

« AT HOME »

Remodeling an entire house in stop-and-go fashion, over three years, was a challenge, but one that contractor Frank Zajac eagerly accepted and thoroughly enjoyed. Projects like the outdoor baths and the masterbedroom extension (below) were each completed in two- to four-week chunks.

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baptized. Baptized to Maui. In that moment, I just knew I had to be here.” Two years later, Sabrina and Kevin purchased the Spreckelsville house, enrolled their three children in Montessori, and settled into “our beach cottage in Hawai‘i,” just as she had envisioned. On their days off from school, the youngsters frolic with friends at the seashore or in their spacious backyard, swinging from the monkeypod tree Jane planted decades ago. As in the Thompsons’ time, the small, closeknit neighborhood remains family-friendly. Sabrina says, “Everyone knows everyone

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here; it’s a great place to raise kids. And this house, from the start, has been so inviting, so bright and cheery; it’s been a special home for our family.” Indeed, it is a home not just built, but maintained, rescued by, and filled with love—several times over. RESOURCE GUIDE Aloha Remodeling & Construction, Inc. Frank Zajac, general contractor 808-573-5229 | AlohaRemodeling.com

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« AT HOME »

Bamboo Maui (flooring) 1878 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku 808-244-2299 | BambooMaui.com Cremer Construction (colored-concrete driveway) 440 Ainakula Road, Kula 808-878-6495 Manta.com/c/mmjsj18/cremer-construction Ferguson Plumbing Supply 335 Hukilike Street, Kahului 808-877-4460 | Ferguson.com I Dig Maui (landscaping) 55 Lower Ulumalu Road, Ha‘ikū 808-357-1450

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Featuring original artwork by Robert Suzuki. For viewing, visit HUE's showroom. Contact Robert at 808-268-0630 or nobuoyo@aol.com.

210 Alamaha Street, Kahului | 808-873-6910 | mauihue.com

Outdoor Living Eventually the home nearly doubled in size to 2,800 square feet of living area. Each extension is a graceful segue between the house and its rustic surroundings, from the open-air baths (one of the children’s baths shown at top) to the master bedroom’s walkin/walk-out closet.

Maui Laminates (butcher-block countertop) 269 Papa Place, #5, Kahului 808-871-6500 | MauiLaminates.com Performance Painting 71-A Miner Place, Makawao 808-870-4500 PerformancePaintingHi.com Want to nominate a Maui residence for an At Home feature? Tell us about it and send a few images to Ideas@MauiMagazine.net.

2 61 L A L O S T R E E T . K A H U L U I . M A U I 873-8325 . OUT-DOOR-LIVING.COM Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 13

BLUE HAWAI‘I Fall in love with island living living—even living— even if no ocean surrounds you. Compiled by Conn Brattain

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« GREAT FINDS »

OIL ON WATER Robert Suzuki’s framed oil-on-canvas Mama’s Outrigger Canoe II (40.25"x59.25"), $7,000 at HUE, 210 Alamaha Street, Kahului, 873-6910, MauiHue.com

FOR YOUR GALLEY Le Creuset braisers have ergonomic handles and chip-resistant enamel interiors. Ideal for tenderizing meat and vegetables. Shown: 3.5-qt. in Caribbean blue, $285. Full collection at Marmac Home & Kitchen, 334 Alamaha St., Kahului, 877-3931

ARTISTIC VESSEL Artist Katie Lutz’s Blue Dot Bowl is high-fire stoneware and porcelain. 5.75"x5"x8", $75 at The Gallery Shop at Kaluanui, Hui No'eau Visual Arts Center, 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-6560

OCEAN SURFACE Maui Marble & Granite’s Walker Zanger tiles: the David Hexagon mosaic (left) and Ottoman mosaic (right). Call for pricing. 874 Alua St., Wailuku, 242-8400, MauiMarbleAndGranite.net

INKED WELL Carrie Lee Brady’s Kozo Blue He‘e mixed-media gyotaku is 30"x20". Limited edition of 100, archival print on paper or canvas, $800 at Maui Crafts Guild,120 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9697, MauiCraftsGuild.com

SEA GLASS Set of three hand-blown glass bottles in aqua, blue and white (9", 15", 12.5"), $110 at Home World, 374 Hanakai St., Kahului, 877-5503, HomeWorld.com

GO WITH THE FLOW Big Island lava formations inspire Marian Fieldson’s glass platters. 4"x6", $95 at Martin & MacArthur. Locations: MartinAndMacarthur.com

LIGHT BLUE Octopus lamp in antique turquoise ceramic finish, resin base and burlap shade. 25”h, $139 at Beach House Furnishings, 330 Ohukai Rd., Kīhei, 891-2010

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AT EASE, SAILOR This Aarhus teak club armchair (28"x35"x37") and ottoman (23"x22"x13") have weather-resistant cushions in Sunbrella fabrics (shown: Dupione Galaxy). $1,480/set at Outdoor Living, 261 Lalo St., Kahului, 873-8325, OutdoorLivingHawaii.com

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 15

« ARCHITECT Q&A » When the owners of this Wailea home decided they wanted a more tropical look, the architect recommended rethinking the roof form; this design element proved an affordable way to create a Balinese effect.

Interview by Rita Goldman

HOW TO CREATE THE HOME OF YOUR DREAMS tects go through rigorous training, maybe fifteen years in the preparatory phases, apprenticeship and licensure. We’re trained to understand the nature of building materials, what they can and can’t do. There’s also the issue of accountability. I’ll give you an example. I was called as an expert witness in a court case. The people I was representing had a home built right in front of them; it was designed by a drafter who didn’t investigate the environment very well. They put a two-story structure as close as they could to the plaintiff’s property, and took out [my clients’] entire view.

Why is it wise to hire an architect when planning a home? Jim: There are a number of reasons. Archi-

Let’s talk about money. How much do an architect’s services add to the cost of a home? I can imagine people thinking they

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How did the case resolve? Jim: The plaintiff was successful. But the house was already built! Jim: Yes, but there was a big money award.

can’t afford an architect, even if they’d like to hire one. Jim: Actually, there could be savings. You asked earlier for the best advice we can give a client. Mine is, tell me the truth regarding your budget. Clients will tell you one figure, and have a big shopping list, and when you try to narrow it down, they say, “No, I need this.” [The item] goes back into the plan, and when the numbers come out, they’re 20 or 30 percent over the budget. Then the client will say, “Oh, I guess we can do that.” Why do they do that? Frank: The reputation of the industry is that architects’ fees are based on a percentage of the construction cost. Some architects do that. Others do it on an hourly basis, or on a set-fee basis. It sounds as though not knowing the real budget would adversely affect the whole design. Jim: Exactly.

MELIZZA WALKER

Granted, if that dwelling is on Maui, you’re, well, halfway home. Still, there’s a lot to designing a residence that will make you happy just being there. We sat down with four Maui architects and asked them to share their advice and insights. Jim Niess, of Maui Architectural Group, and Frank Skowronski, of Territorial Architects, Ltd., have been designing residences and commercial buildings on Maui for decades. Jim’s son, Peter Niess, also with Maui Architectural Group, and Atom Kasprzycki, of Kasprzycki Design, are newer to the profession, but grew up on Maui and have an intimate understanding of the island. All four are members of the American Institute of Architects’ Maui Chapter, and three are past presidents—Peter Niess last year. Atom Kasprzycki is the chapter’s current president.

Above: “Story poles” help a client visualize the height and mass of a home before it’s constructed. The owner of this site wanted to be able to see the ocean as he approached the home, and after looking at the story poles, agreed with lowering the height of the building pad to make that happen. Right: Well-placed wooden louvers take advantage of Maui’s tradewinds to provide cross ventilation.

and things morph. It’s important to remind them of their initial goals, and make sure that in the end it’ll come together cohesively.

RIGHT: MELIZZA WALKER; LEFT: COURTESY OF MAUI ARCHITECTURAL GROUP

Whoa! How many psychology classes do you guys take? Peter: Neuroscience for architecture is one of my favorite things. What’s “neuroscience for architecture”? Peter: It’s how the lighting in a room affects your mood. It’s the textiles. . . . Frank: Colors, how mirrors make a room look bigger. . . .

Initial sketches, like this “bubble diagram” are a quick and easy way to explore a home’s possible spaces and proximity relationships.

Can you give an example? Peter: Yes. A house I’m doing in Central Maui was going to have an artist’s studio above the garage, until the contractor and I determined that the best way to stay on budget was to remove the studio, the home’s only two-story element. The client agreed. A stand-alone studio is a possibility for the future, but even if it’s the same size, it may end up more costly in the long run. When I sit down with a client, I ask, “What’s the purpose of this home? Are you going to live in it for three, four, five years, and then sell it? Is it something you want

to pass down to your kids? Are you going to be here full time or part time?” I’ll write down the scope of their ideal home. Is this entry something they’ll use daily? Do they want cubbies for shoes? Art lighting? Flagstone? Do they want the kitchen to be the heart of the house? I have clients who rarely cook and don’t want to spend a lot of money on the kitchen, but they want it to look nice. We go through everything, room by room. I take notes, and keep them as a reference. A lot of times, as clients delve into the experience of designing a custom home, they educate themselves,

Is it fair to say that a Maui architect would know things an architect from somewhere else doesn’t? Frank: Well, there is a big difference between designing for a temperate climate and designing for the tropics. Our relationship to the environment is different; we live outside more, we know what passive cooling is, and that you don’t make the front door open into the tradewinds. It’s not just drawing experience, or building experience. It’s our experience of a lifestyle. A mainland architect has to learn those issues—usually at the client’s expense. Jim: Here’s an example. The client says, “I just bought this property in Hāna, and it’s right on the ocean, and it’s got this gorgeous view, so I want slide-away walls.” And I say, “You’ll never open those doors. I’ll put Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 17

« ARCHITECT Q&A »

What’s the highest they can build on O’ahu? Jim: About 1,500 feet. Atom: At sea level, you’re protecting [the home] from the heat. When you’re up in upper Kula, you’re considering the cold at night. Peter: There’s also our ability to navigate the County of Maui’s permitting process, which is hugely valuable—people learn that very quickly if they don’t hire an architect. It’s not like on the mainland, where they can submit a basic set of plans, cross their

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Top: After the client and architect have explored various ideas through the use of bubble diagrams, the next step is a more developed design; this one also illustrates how repetition of certain materials creates flow and ties the home together. Above: Construction starts at the foundation; this is the last opportunity to make any significant changes before costs go up exponentially.

fingers, and expect to get a building permit two months later. Atom: Most of us have developed a relationship with most of the people at the County. A lot of times we’re on first-name basis, or can send an email request for more information, as opposed to a letter that takes a week to prepare . . . and sits on someone’s desk for two weeks . . . and finally gets mailed out to you . . . and it’s been a month. With most of our correspondence, it’s almost instant. That translates to faster turnaround of permit time, saving money, ultimately. Frank: And keep in mind that there’s a lifestyle at the end of the construction. You

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them on the other side of the house, and give you lots of glass for the ocean view, but [if we install slide-away walls], every time you crack the door this far, you’re going to clear the table, because the wind comes onshore there, hits the cliff, and salt spray covers everything.” Even an O‘ahu architect can’t do that well here, because they don’t know how to design at 4,000 feet.

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« ARCHITECT Q&A »

Schematic sections illustrate how a home will work with a site’s topography.

may have saved money, but now you don’t have a lānai to sit on and enjoy the sunset or sunrise. The built environment has got a lot more issues than just the price tag. Atom: And this house is going to be here for seventy to one-hundred-plus years. If it’s going to be in your family, it shouldn’t be designed and assembled haphazardly. The money is important, but at the end of the day, so is how the house functions, how it’s put together, and how it looks. Jim: This ties into how a local architect can design more economically. In this climate, we don’t have to protect ourselves from the environment so much. You can live in a smaller space, especially if it’s a vacation home, with outdoor rooms that may be sheltered or not. We can design a smaller footprint, and bring the cost down, but it still can be very well designed, very tasty, and give you delight, which is really what architecture is all about. How do I choose an architect who is right for me? Jim: As a client, you enter into a close relationship with the architect for a good number of months—maybe years, even. So

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This custom railing by Padilla Designs provides as much visibility as a glass or cable railing, and adds an attractive design element.

“It’s always exciting for clients when site grading begins,” says Peter Niess. “We’ve been talking about the home for months, and suddenly it’s becoming real.”

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personality has to work. You want to interview the architect, and make sure that they aren’t cutting you off while you’re talking. Check their references, and see some of their work, if possible. Frank: If you see eight different homes that this architect has done, and they all look alike, you don’t want to hire them. You want an architect who is designing for you. Peter: Your home is the largest investment in your life. Frank: And the most critical in your relationship with your partner. The questions Peter asks his clients are to get unique answers. Every family is different. You’re getting a home that not only meets your budget, but also your lifestyle and your dreams. Peter: Again, it’s about being honest, letting us know the way you live with your partner. A lot more people than you’d think like to have separate bathrooms. And either they’re embarrassed, or shy, or don’t want to let us know that.

Live your Maui Dream Martin Lenny R(S) martin@martinlenny.com

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I know a couple who love each other dearly, but she can’t sleep in the same bedroom because he snores so badly. Atom: That’s more common than you would think. So what’s wrong with just saying, “We want a bedroom over here, and a den over there,” and not telling the architect that this is actually where he’s gonna sleep? I’ll just put a bed in there, instead of a couch. Frank: That won’t work. Bedrooms should have immediate access to closets and bathrooms. You can’t just say “We’ll put the

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 21

« ARCHITECT Q&A »

Subscribe by March 25 to get the May-June issue with a special “Eating & Drinking” Section.

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master bedroom here, with a plushed-out master bathroom, but he’s sleeping down the hall,” maybe with a powder room. No, no, no. The architect doesn’t have to be a marriage counselor, but you have to tell us. This is not a value judgment of how people live. It’s an idea of the customness that has to occur if the structure is going to be successful. Peter: I want to go back to the initial meeting with the client, figuring out how they interact, what their lifestyle is. I’ll go to their existing house, if that’s possible, walk through it with them, and talk about the pros and the cons: Do you like your closet? Do you like having a tub? Do you like having to go upstairs to your bedrooms? I have them do their homework about each of the houses they’ve lived in, all the way back to their childhood home, and pull out their favorite rooms or experiences: how the sun comes up in the morning, where they eat breakfast or drink coffee, and explain it to me, so we can get them their custom home. Frank: And I do almost the opposite. I believe that if you tell me what you don’t like, I can learn more than if you tell me

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« ARCHITECT Q&A » what you do like. Sometimes you like things by accident, whereas, if it doesn’t work, there’s a reason. You know why it doesn’t work. “My kitchen’s on the northwest side of the house, and we’re in Kula, so when I get up in the morning, I’ve got to put on warm clothes. I don’t want that anymore; I want my kitchen to face the rising sun.” They’re clear on that—it’s been bugging them for years—as opposed to, “Yeah, it has a great view; it’s okay.” Well, no. At $300 a square foot, nothing should be just “okay.” Peter: The biggest issue is expectations. You’re not going to be happy if you have unmet expectations, and the only way to avoid that is to have clear communication and trust.

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We’ve talked about taking the time to interview different architects, and the importance of being honest with them. Is there anything else that would make the experience of building my dream home more successful? Peter: I have my clients set up a Pinterest account and a Houzz account. Houzz is a room-by-room, graphically oriented website. You say “kitchens,” and there’s 30,000 kitchens to look at, and you narrow it down. The site has different types: traditional, contemporary, tropical. . . . Frank: Large, small, medium, expensive. . . . Peter: The clients go through room by room and select all the things they like, and I have them write what they like about it. Giving clients Houzz and Pinterest as homework [encourages them] to take the time to really think about how they’re going live in this space, and not just wait till they meet with us to go over design development. It’s helpful as a designer to have that information. It also complicates things, because then you have to bring a bunch of scattered design elements together. Frank: With Houzz and Pinterest, you’re pulling their ideas out, synthesizing those ideas and getting some sort of common thread. “You’ve picked these things; did you realize this and this and this are related to each other? Can we put that into the design?” Successful designers realize that the clients are designing the home. With a good designer, there’s no hidden agenda; there’s hopefully a lack of ego. You’re helping people realize, “Oh, I really don’t need that big of a kitchen,” or “We can get away with three bedrooms, not six.” You’re helping, but they’re designing. That’s the most successful residential design.

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Rather than pouring simultaneous slabs for all the structures on this homesite, contractor Nalu Akinaka had his team focus first on building the garage. The strategy of starting with an auxiliary structure enabled them to work out how finished details would look for the whole project, while saving the client a lot of money. Right: Perfecting the corner eaves.

Peter: When I was a kid, hana bata days, I’d go with my dad to jobsites. He’d say, “We’re going to sit here at this time of day. Notice where the sun is, where it’s going to rise. Notice where the wind is—is today a typical day? Look at the views. Over there you can see Lāna‘i meet the water.” We’d sit there and draw it out, really get to know the site.

Every project is unique; every site presents different design issues or possibilities. And when you add the client to the uniqueness of each site, it’s fun. It’s never boring to be an architect. Jim: We’ve been talking a lot about the practical reasons to hire an architect. Here’s a quote by [Swiss-French architect] Le Cor-

busier that touches on another element of architecture, the mystery, the delight: You employ stone, wood and concrete, and with these materials you build houses and palaces. That is construction. Ingenuity is at work. But suddenly you touch my heart, you do me good, I am happy and I say: This is beautiful. That is Architecture. Art enters in.

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MAUIWOODYS.COM Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 25

« BECKY’S BACKYARD »

Hawaiian sugarcane is different from the commercial crop that for so long blanketed the island’s central isthmus. This stand is one of several varieties grown at Maui Nui Botanical Gardens.

KŌ: HAWAIIAN SUGARCANE Years later, our dining editor has her sweet revenge. Story by Becky Speere | Photography by Ryan Siphers It was dangerous. The sharp-edged leaves of the sugarcane could slash my skin like a knife. But I needed to keep up with my two brothers as they ran, laughing, losing me in the sea of green. I was six years old, the youngest, a tomboy. And stories of kids getting lost while playing in the sugar fields hadn’t fallen on deaf ears. My heart thumped in my chest and my leg muscles burned as I listened to them yelling in the distance . . . out of sight. At last, I sadly turned around and picked my way back to the old plantation house. They didn’t want a girl playing with them. Fifty years later, the memory flashes

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back as though it were yesterday. I’m on my riding mower, circling stands of twelve-foottall Hawaiian medicinal kō (sugarcane) that I collected at the East Maui Taro Festival in Hāna, and from Maui Nui Botanical Gardens in Kahului. I planted them after tasting my first fresh-pressed sugarcane juice at the Upcountry Farmers Market in Pukalani; soon, I’ll be pressing the nutrient-rich stalks myself. Calcium, manganese, magnesium and iron are a few of the health benefits of sugarcane juice. Consisting mainly of water—great for rehydrating after a workout—the lightly sweetened, highly alkaline drink measures at half the glycemic index

of processed sugar—so there’s no worry of spiking blood-sugar levels. Pre-contact Hawaiians were well aware of kō’s beneficial properties. They mixed cane juice with medicinal herbs to make lā‘au lapa‘au (healing potions) more palatable, and chewed the fibrous stalk to clean their teeth. In her book Lā‘au Hawai‘i: Traditional Hawaiian Uses of Plants, noted botanist and native Hawaiian Isabella Aiona Abbott noted that sugarcane was even used in reattaching severed portions of the body. And sugarcane has polyphenols (micronutrients with antioxidant properties), leading the website HealthBenefitsTimes.com to

Kō (Saccharum officinarum) is a “canoe plant,” brought to the Islands by early Polynesians. The top photo shows tassled cane growing in Hāli‘imaile, the bottom photo shows cuttings at Maui Nui Botanical Gardens.

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surmise that it may help to fight cancer and boost the immune system. All the more reason to grow kō and drink its juice. I still have to figure out where to buy my press, but in the meantime, I’ll be heading to the Upcountry Farmers Market on Saturday morning for my juice. If you haven’t tried it yet, check it out soon!

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 27

« REAL ESTATE TRENDS »

Story by Diane Haynes Woodburn

Wendy Rice Peterson is a fourth-generation Maui rancher . . . and the most productive realtor for Island Sotheby’s International Realty in 2016. If anyone knows Upcountry real estate, it’s Wendy. And anyone who knows Wendy will agree that trying to get her to sit in one place for more than five minutes is like trying to lasso a firefly; her energy defies gravity. So when I asked for this interview, it didn’t surprise me that her answer was to invite me on the “Wendy tour.” “When folks tell me they want acreage Upcountry,” says Wendy, “the best thing I can do is take them on a tour. I love showing the land and learning what makes people smile—you never know what will grab their imagination and ignite their excitement. That’s what I love about real estate.” We meet at the entrance to a large property with frontage on Kula Highway at about 3,300-foot elevation. Wendy greets me with her signature smile, picture perfect in jeans and a checkered shirt. We climb into her oversized SUV and begin our motorized trundle into verdant ranchland. “Large parcels such as this are significant,” Wendy says. “They don’t come on the market very

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often. We have three ranches on the slopes of Haleakalā that comprise 60,000 acres. Most parcels have been family owned for decades—some for more than a century. This piece, 310 acres, is part of Haleakala Ranch, but is not contiguous with the major ranchland. In the old days, that wasn’t an issue, because ranchers would move their cattle down the road to change pastures, but today that’s just not possible. So the ranch decided to offer this parcel for sale.” The SUV lumbers across flowering pastures as surprised pheasants take flight. Soon we come to a fork in the trail. “We’ll take the road less travelled,” Wendy laughs. The SUV heads over hill and dale, eventually arriving at yet another gate. “This is the upper paddock,” she explains. “The owners keep polo ponies here and lease the mid-pastures for cattle. Below that, the land is leased to grow produce.” We open the gate, drive through, and carefully close it again and head into a forest worthy of fairy tales. “I call this the ‘Hansel and Gretel forest,’” Wendy says. The name is apt; I’m truly enchanted. Soon the road gives way to pasture, the kind of heavenly green knoll where you’d expect to find Julie

Andrews singing, “The hills are alive. . . .” Wendy smiles. “I call this place ‘poet’s perch.’” She points out a gnarled old eucalyptus that offers a shaded seat where one might read, dream, or simply breathe the crisp Kula air. We clamber out of the vehicle and take in a view stretching from Pā‘ia to Molokini. Behind us, Haleakalā rises resonant and powerful, piercing the bright blue sky. The view is 360 degrees of gorgeous. We stroll over to a picnic table that Wendy has placed there to enjoy wine or a picnic with clients, and stop to talk and take in the views. “I grew up in a ranching family,” she tells me, “so I’ve always been comfortable on large parcels. To me, Upcountry is the heart of Maui. I think people are drawn to Upcountry because of the mana [spirit] here. It’s so peaceful.” “You mentioned this piece is uncommon; is that because of its size?” I ask. “Yes, and because it’s virtually untouched.” “And what would it cost to purchase 310 acres of pristine Maui ranchland?” “It’s offered at $8,850,000. I have another big parcel that used be in pineapple, 464 acres at a slightly lower elevation,

TOP RIGHT: DIANE HAYNES WOODBURN

THE RANCHER’S DAUGHTER

Top left: One of Wendy’s favorite properties, this decades-old dwelling embodies a vintage Upcountry aesthetic. The sprawling, single-level home has been faithfully restored, but with modern conveniences. Top right: A fourth-generation rancher, Wendy looks right at home on the range. Bottom: These 310 acres of possibilities come with a picture-perfect vista.

with the potential to be subdivided into 38 sites. It’s offered at $8,250,000. And I have a spectacular 52-acre site, beautifully maintained, with a massive water system, a custom cottage and a workshop, offered at $4,800,000.” “What about just a great home on a manageable property, for those who don’t want to ranch, or go into development?” “Ranching is certainly not for everyone,” Wendy laughs. “For those who simply want the Upcountry lifestyle, there are gorgeous properties on perhaps two or two-and-ahalf acres with stunning views, privacy, and plenty room for animals and gardens. I have several on the market right now, ranging in price from just below $1,500,000, up to $4,500,000.” “What should folks ask about when looking Upcountry?” “The first question I ask people is, what kind of weather do you want? Elevation and location will determine that. The second is, what do you want to do with your property? Again, elevation as well as zoning will dictate what you can grow, and what kind of animals you can have. Last, but perhaps most important, is water. Does the property have County water, or will you have to drill a well? At an elevation of 2,000 or 3,000 feet, that’s a huge commitment. And how many water meters does the property have? Is it subdividable? That will determine how many buildings you can have. Another issue is view vulnerability—can anyone obscure your view?” “You have such deep roots here, are you sad to see the island become more developed, changed?” I ask. “Not really,” Wendy replies. “There really is enough space—although I am sad to see the end of sugar. I’ll miss how, on flights back to Maui, the cane fields seemed to wave me in as we landed. And I’ll miss seeing the smokestacks that helped us judge wind direction. But change is inevitable. As long as people are conscientious about building, and respectful of the environment, and if those who come here understand what it means to give back, then it’s beautiful to share.” Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 29

Maui

Path to Paradise

SPECTACULAR NA HALE O MAKENA Wailea | 3B/2.5B | $2,000,000 | MLS#: 370649

CHARMING KULA HOUSE & COTTAGE Kula | 3B/2.5B | $1,495,000 | MLS#: 368594

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and Maui’s south shore. The owners will enjoy a lifetime of endless tropical sunsets and gentle breezes. The parcel is builder ready, comes complete with a producing citrus, mango and coconut orchard, features large monkeypod shade trees, and a private dual water system for domestic and agricultural uses. The perfect location for your private, oceanfront Maui home. Conveniently located directly across from Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu and midway between Wailuku and Lahaina. A MUST-SEE for the discriminating buyer.

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A spectacular 2-acre, beachfront lot located in an exclusive and very private community in Olowalu. The parcel has an approved County of Maui farm plan, breath-taking views of Lāna‘i, Kaho‘olawe and Maui’s south shore.Ridge The owners a lifetime of endless Honolua - Phasewill II, enjoy Lot #22: 242 Keoawa Street, Kapalua: tropical sunsets and acres gentleofbreezes. The parcel builder comes 6.259 breathtaking views.isFrom yourready, house site you’ll enjoy complete withendless a producing mango and coconut orchard, features views ofcitrus, nearby islands, tropical sunsets and the deep blue walarge monkeypod trees,Channel. and a private dual water system ters ofshade the Pailolo The site is situated near thefor top of the develdomestic andopment, agricultural your private, givinguses. youThe easyperfect access location to pristinefor mountain hikes, the beaches oceanfront Maui home. and Conveniently located directly across from of Kapalua enough land to create your own private tropical paradise. Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu and midway between Wailuku Offered at $1,595,000 and Lahaina. A MUST-SEE for the discriminating buyer. Property is offered at $5,800,000.

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Pan-fried taâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ape gets an upscale finish, served with sautĂŠed chayote squash, fennel and fried yucca.

MauiMagazine.net

DINING

Dining editor Becky Speere and Chef Hiram Peri show off the start of a seato-table feast.

We climb aboard a fun fishing charter that helps protect native fish . . . then have our private chef turn an invasive species into a yummy meal.

HOOK, LINE & SUPPER Story by Becky Speere | Photography by Ben Ferrari

Captain Monroe Bryce yells over his shoulder, “Get ready to drop!” Standing alert at the stern of the Marjorie Ann, Maui Fun Charters’ thirty-foot fishing boat, we eight guests line the shiny chrome railings with our fishing poles, our squid-baited hooks bobbing on the surface of the water. “Let it go!” We hold our breaths as the weighted hooks plummet into the blue abyss. “Okay, reel up four times,” Monroe orders, and we follow his command. Just as the bait passes over the reef, boom! Fish on! And on! And on! It’s a good day. . . . Chef Hiram Peri and I arrive at Mā‘alaea Harbor at seven, just as the sun is rising over Maui’s 10,023-foot-high Mt. Haleakalā. The morning chill envelops us as we leave the car’s cozy warmth and head to the boat, but we sigh with relief at the sight of calm seas. When I spoke to Monroe last evening, he had cautioned that the day could be windy, and that recent catches had been sparse. Today, as we approach the berth, co-captain Mike Clevhammer’s words bring a smile to our

faces. “The winds are directly out of the east,” he says, “so Haleakalā’s mass is protecting us from the elements.” We’ll be fishing for ta’ape, bluestripe snapper (Lutjanus kasmira). Originally from the Marquesas, this pelagic species was introduced into O‘ahu’s waters in 1956 as a potential game fish. Today the snapper is found throughout Hawai‘i’s waters, and has spread as far as the Midway Islands, a mind-boggling distance of 1,600 miles. Because it spawns year-round, ta’ape can overwhelm reef habitats for Hawai‘i’s indigenous and endemic fish, and increase competition for food. Our goal today is to catch a few to reduce their numbers, while securing our entrée for a dinner that Hiram, owner of Honu Cuisine, will lovingly prepare. (The services of a private chef aren’t part of Maui Fun Charters’ regular cruises, but Hiram is game to come along, and he’s already planned a menu with ta’ape as the main course.) Stepping onboard, I wonder how Monroe secured a berth here at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

Clockwise from top left: Captain Monroe Bryce watches for boaters as he locates fishing reefs on his radar screen. Squid-head bait dangles in waiting. The ocean yields up a bountiful catch. Becky and Chef Hiram reel in the fish as Mike Clevhammer looks on.

Mā‘alaea Harbor—let alone a (nearly impossible to obtain) license to carry passengers. When I ask how he managed that feat, the Ha‘ikū native shares his family’s story: “My father obtained a slip at the harbor in 1986, where he kept the family’s fishing boat. In 2005, he obtained a license to do commercial fishing,” becoming one of twenty-nine licensed commercial fishing businesses operating out of Mā‘alaea. “That’s when my brother, Kelly, and I decided to make a living from bottom-fishing charters. We go out once a day. It’s fun, and I still have a family life.” Kelly and Monroe split the workweek, taking customers out on alternate mornings. “Kelly also does the maintenance and repairs on the boats [Marjorie Ann has a sister vessel, Pamela], and that helps us keep a handle on finances. Boats are expensive to maintain.” But today, Monroe says, he’ll be the one cleaning up after the cruise. “My wife, Chelsea, is almost ready to deliver—our third child—and I need to get home and help her with our other two.” Instead, Kelly and his wife will join Hiram and me for dinner at my house. We head out to sea and spend the next four hours sailing between

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Maui’s Pali Lookout and the island of Kaho‘olawe, drifting over coral reefs. Schools of fish show up as colorful, abstract art on the fish-finder Doppler radar screen. Onboard, the action is constant: we drop our lines into calm seas, and reel in fish with shouts of “Over here!” “Fish on!” and “Help me, Mike!” And also, “I think my line is stuck on the reef.” We guests have been advised to bring our own snacks and drinks, and all through the morning, I hear cans of beer and soda popped open and chips being munched on. At eleven thirty, as we head back to Mā‘alaea, Mike lays out the fish for photos and fileting. I’m surprised when we count our catch and see that we’ve landed more than three dozen! The fish are beauties— canary yellow with turquoise stripes—and Mike brings up the subject of gyotaku, the Japanese art of inking fish and pressing their images onto paper. “We work with a fish printer, if anyone is interested,” he says, and one couple opts in. Approaching the harbor, we marvel at the lush green vista seen from this makai (ocean) perspective, and I eagerly anticipate the sea- and farm-to-table dinner Chef Hiram will prepare. It’s early afternoon when Hiram and I reach my home on Maui’s

DINING

Above: The mise en place of produce and spices includes a jar for preserved lemons and capers for the macadamia nut caper sauce. (See recipe on page 90.) Right: Chef Hiram tosses chayote in a hot wok. Left: Fish scaler meets ta’ape. Scaling the fish while it’s under water keeps the scales from scattering all over your work area.

north shore, along with Kelly and his wife—who is also named Kelly. We watch attentively as Hiram cleans and scores the ta’ape. He says, “I lean more toward cooking with Mediterranean flavors, so I made a Moroccan chermoula [sauce] and a macadamia-nut purée to accompany the fish. It’s made with fresh herbs from my garden, and we sourced some veggies from the Upcountry Farmers Market and from Becky’s garden.” I dip a spoon into the chermoula. Mmm-mm. The fresh, bright flavors of parsley and preserved Meyer lemon sing on my tongue, layered with salty anchovies and sweet, herbaceous olive oil. Hiram gathers and strips the leaves from the branches of a katuk plant (a Malaysian sweet-pea-flavored leafy green), and with a mandolin, slices paper-thin sheaths of ivory cassava root from my garden. Kelly—Monroe’s brother—has been piloting boats since his high school days. He’s a walking encyclopedia of fishing, and enlightens us on the habits of ta’ape. “One life-saving trait of the fish is that they come together to form a massive wall when under attack by predator fish . . . all their stripes align” and the attacker can’t distinguish where each individual fish begins and ends. Mise en place ready, Hiram cheerfully sears the whole ta’ape in hot olive oil, and soon the white meat flakes from the bones when pierced Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

DINING Top row: Slitting the fish’s belly makes it easy to remove the entrails; crisscrossed cuts on the sides of the fish keep it from curling in the pan. Middle: Chef Hiram fries the ta’ape in hot extra virgin olive oil, turning it when the fish’s eyes grow opaque. Becky, Hiram, Kelly and Kelly Bryce gather around the table, eager to dig in.

with a fork. He places the fish atop the macadamia nut purée and dapples it with the chermoula. I taste a dollop, and applaud Hiram’s culinary prowess. He has been a private chef on Maui since 2011— though it took a while for him to get here. Born in Israel, he moved to New Jersey with his family when he was ten years old, later graduated from the Central Oregon Culinary Institute in Bend, and became a chef in Portland. These days, he stays busy cooking for a loyal clientele in their homes, sometimes for a single meal, sometimes for weeks. The dish is beyond our expectations, and we all agree that this is the perfect preparation for a reef fish that is normally under-valued and underused. As Hiram accepts our praise, we see the potential for future dishes . . . and for decreasing ta’ape’s invasive presence in Hawai‘i waters. Maui Fun Charters Mā‘alaea Harbor, Slip #97, 10 Mā‘alaea Harbor Road, Mā‘alaea | 808-572-2345 | MauiFunCharters.com Chef Hiram G. Peri / Honu Cuisine 808-633-6533 | HonuCuisine.com WEB EXCLUSIVE Watch Chef Peri demonstrate techniques for cooking ta’ape at MauiMagazine.net/hook-line-supper.

Macadamia Nut Caper Sauce

Yield: 3 cups | Prep Time: 15 minutes, plus 4 hours or more to soak the mac nuts

Green Chermoula

Yield: 2 cups | Prep time: 45 minutes

4 anchovies, packed in oil, mashed to a rough paste 2 tsp. preserved lemon, diced 1 Tbsp. capers, drained 1 small garlic clove, finely grated 2 Tbsp. organic extra virgin olive oil 1 large bunch of cilantro (approximately 2 c.), tops and 2/3 of stems included 1 c. parsley, tops and 2/3 of stems included ¼ c. mint leaves, loosely packed 1¼ c. extra virgin olive oil Lemon juice & salt, optional DRY SPICE MIX 1 tsp. whole coriander seeds ½ tsp. each whole black peppercorns, cumin seed, & fennel seed ½ tsp. each ground cinnamon & allspice 1/8 tsp. each ground chile de arbol (or cayenne) & ground turmeric Lightly toast whole spices over medium heat till aromatic, about 4 minutes. Cool. Grind

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to a powder in spice grinder.* Mix with remaining spices. Store in a jar in refrigerator. *Available at Maureen’s kitchen department in Marmac Ace Hardware, Kahului. In a medium bowl, make a paste by combining anchovies, preserved lemon, capers, garlic, and 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Add a generous pinch of spice mix and stir with a fork until well blended. Chop herbs together to a fine consistency. Stir into anchovy paste, adding enough olive oil for a spoonable consistency. Adjust seasoning, adding lemon juice and salt, if desired. For best results, macerate for a few hours at room temperature, if using immediately, or store in refrigerator. Chermoula will keep for up to a week if refrigerated, and may be used in soups, stews, as a marinade base, and in vegetable dishes as a flavor enhancer. NOTE: If you want your chermoula to keep

its green color, hand chopping the herbs with a sharp knife is a must. If you are in a rush, and not planning on leftovers, you can process the herbs in the food processor with the paste and olive oil.—Chef Hiram

NUT MILK 1 c. raw macadamia nuts filtered water for soaking 4 c. filtered water for blending Place raw nuts in a glass or ceramic bowl and cover with cool filtered water. Seal with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator 4 hours or overnight. Rinse well and drain. Place nuts in blender with 4 c. filtered water and blend till smooth, 1–2 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh nut bag.* Lasts up to 5 days, refrigerated. *Available at Down to Earth Natural Foods, Whole Foods Market, and Mana Foods. SAUCE 1 c. macadamia-nut milk 1 c. oven-roasted, unsalted mac nuts 1–2 Tbsp. capers in brine sea salt, to taste black pepper, to taste Place all ingredients in blender and process till smooth. Keep refrigerated. Warm on low heat before serving. Use within 1 week. PLATING Place seared fish on macadamia sauce and drizzle chermoula on fish. Serve with extra sauce on the side.

LOCALS KNOW

DINING Highlights

STORY & PHOTOGRAPHY BY BECKY SPEERE

Maui offers so many culinary adventures that the choices are almost too much to digest. Never fear—you’ve got a local guide in your corner, with answers to the question, “Where should I eat today?” (Our advice: Try them all!)

A Fianco’s house-made focaccia is filled with scamorza cheese, grilled broccolini and tomato.

A FIANCO

Market Fresh Bistro’s tomato salad has Kula herb goat cheese fritters, kalamata olives and Evonuk Farms parsley vinaigrette.

MISO PHAT SUSHI

back to Tokyo to work at the famed Tsukiji Fish Market, while Ahren continues to create sushi for Maui diners at this quaint little restaurant tucked inside a mall. Menu items have clever names like Miso Pretty and Miso Out-of-Site, but Ahren is serious about using only the freshest fish and imported ingredients from Japan. “I don’t spare any expenses for our sushi,” he says when I marvel at the oh-so-fat unagi roll (stuffed with at least four sauced and broiled filets). A sashimi-laden boat (which would surely sink at sea under the generous serving of assorted fish and seafood) sails to the couple down the bar from me. It is OMG! huge. An ‘ahi bon bon lands in front of me. Wrapped in slices of creamy avocado, the freshly minced ‘ahi is gently tossed with an amped up mix of garlic aioli and Ahren’s secret spice blend. The dish delivers a wow factor in appearance and taste. My new favorite is ankimo (monkfish foie gras) served torchon style with spicy kochu jang sauce and oroshi (finely grated daikon radish), topped with a generous spoonful of black caviar. Original? Yes—just like Ahren!

Executive chef Ahren Uyeda worked for six years in Oregon under master sushi chef Sakanishi-san. His mentor has since moved

1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | 808-891-6476 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana | 808669-9010 | MisoPhat.com

Joy! Oh joy! Lahaina’s newest lunch addition is Sale Pepe’s sister restaurant—located, as its name says in Italian, “next to” that award-winning venue. A Fianco is osteria food at its best. The menu changes weekly, but if you’re lucky, they’ll be offering locally grown, wild arugula (sylvetta) salad with a light olive oil and lemon dressing, topped with shaved parmesan; house-made al dente strozzapreti tossed with jade-green Maui kale pesto; or panini like the kind you find on the streets of Florence—with tender grilled broccolini, tomato and scamorza (smoked mozzarella) on the thinnest panini bread, baked in the restaurant’s pizza oven. And, yes, Chef Michele offers two of his famous pizzas, as well. It’s a simple and short menu, but we bet even Mario Batali would approve. Mangiare insieme! Located in the Lahaina Town Center, opposite Foodland. 878 Front St., Lahaina | 808-667-7667 | SalePepeMaui.com

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MARKET FRESH BISTRO Eight years ago, brother and sister Justin Pardo and Olivia Coletti happened upon a location in Makawao and decided to open a bistro. Local patrons have made it a regular destination ever since. Justin, a former Grand Wailea chef, has a credo for food sustainability, setting an example for others in the industry. The bistro’s menu is founded on fresh, organically raised produce from local farms—including Pardo and Coletti’s own land. One of my favorite dishes is Justin’s crispy, golden goat cheese croquettes on a bed of Kealoha Farms tomatoes, drizzled with a sweet balsamic reduction. Rave reviews also for kabocha ginger soup—and their most popular dish, an Upcountry greens salad with fresh fish du jour, will more than satisfy pescetarians. Justin offer a prix fixe farm-to-table dinner on Thursdays, and this is one you won’t want to miss. You’ll need a reservation, as seating is limited. A nice selection of beer and wine complements lunches; the weekly sevencourse dinner has a separate paired wine menu, if you choose. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao | 808-572-4877 | MarketFreshBistro.com

Laden with fresh sashimi, Miso Phat’s boat is ready to sail.

BURGER SHACK AT THE RITZ I am sitting at the Burger Shack Bar with a view of green valleys and the mountains of Moloka‘i across the channel. The sound of crashing waves echoes in the ironwood trees. When my burger arrives, all eyes turn to admire it: a hefty nine ounces of grassfed beef from Maui Cattle Company, cooked to a perfect medium rare and served on a King’s Bakery sweet-bread bun with bacon, Hāmākua trumpet mushrooms, thick red tomato slices, Swiss cheese and chipotle aioli. There’s even a side of crunchy sweet potato fries. Just as I’m thinking it can’t get any better, I find out that the Burger Shack makes its own ketchup with pineapple, tomato and molasses; plump dill pickles; and a killer hot sauce. As I happily wolf down the burger, my piña colada milk shake appears. Made with Hawai‘i’s own Dave’s Ice Cream and garnished with house-candied

pineapple and a mini Peter Paul’s Mounds bar, it’s dessert, too! As I roll my eyes at all this yummy goodness, longtime bartender Lonnie Wasieleski, who’s worked at The Ritz for seventeen years, tells me I have to try the vegetarian Bikini Burger, made with black beans and roasted beets. Yes, I think, as I sip my ice cream shake. I’ll be back for that. 1 Ritz Carlton Drive, Kapalua | 808-669-6200 | BurgerShackKapalua.com

BRADDAH HUTTS BBQ GRILL Don’t be turned away by the long lines and packed picnic tables on the lawn adjoining the lunch truck. You’re in Hāna. Slow down, smile at your situation (being in heavenly Hāna) and breathe in the aromas of grilled chicken, pork and barbecue sauce. Eating at Braddah Hutts is dining in true local style: a generous rack of fall-off-the-bone barbecued pork ribs; juicy chicken thighs

Burger Shack layers nine ounces of grass-fed beef with grilled mushrooms, bacon, Swiss cheese and chipotle aioli, and serves it up with sweet potato fries.

marinated in shoyu, sugar, ginger and garlic (teriyaki perfection), all served with two scoops of white rice and mayo-laden macaroni salad. It’s plate lunch to da max! Once you eat here, you’ll see what you’ve been missing all your life. Let the aloha seep into your pores and start up a friendly conversation with your neighbor about your favorite dining spots on the island. Most of all, enjoy! 5305 Hāna Hwy., Hāna | 808-264-5582

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

dining guide »B = Breakfast »BR = Brunch » L = Lunch » D = Dinner »N = Dinner past 9pm » RR = Reservation recommended » $ = Average entreé under $15 »$$ = Under $25 »$$$ = Under $40 » $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2016

WEST SIDE A Fianco, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Sale Pepe’s new sister restaurant is una bellezza! Salads, panini, and thin-crust pizza are made traditionally under Chef Michele’s watchful eyes. Italian. L. $–$$

SAVE THE DATE! APRIL 23, 2017 THE ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS GALA HYATT REGENCY MAUIMAGAZINE. NET/AIPONO

Auntie’s Kitchen, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Saimin, burgers and fresh fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$

The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

The Banyan Tree, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Savor a top-shelf mai tai, an appetizer of seared scallops on cauliflower purée, and braised beef short ribs with kabocha squash and ali‘i mushrooms. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$

Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. D. $$–$$$$

Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808921-4600. Grilled catch of the day comes with coconut Moloka‘i purple sweet potato and ginger-spiced broccolini glazed with yuzu brown butter. Or try the New York strip steak with bleu cheese fondue and baked mashed potato. The mac-nut brittle bar is to die for. Kidfriendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$

Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$

WEST SI Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $

Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $

Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. An impressive steak program features filet mignon, American Wagyu ribeye, and Australian lamb chops. Modern, plantationstyle bar offers light fare and full, island-inspired restaurant menu. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. This family-friendly restaurant serves up Angus beef burgers, refreshing salads and fun mixology, all with great ocean views, live entertainment and aloha. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$

A fresh take on Old Mexico

Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. American. B, L. $ Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031. Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine ‘Aipono Award

Best Mexican Restaurant 2O15 GOLD Best Mexican Restaurant 2O16 Silver

Fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill.com 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6000

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Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a fifties-diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$

The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $

Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939. Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with Basque country fare. French. D. $$$$

Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. L. $ Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood. Steak, too! Japanese. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Try the braised short-rib pho on rice noodles, corn and sweet peppers in rich ginger beef broth. Second location: Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Dine in casual comfort with the Tiki Restaurant’s full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-7733. From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina comes this venue serving burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and

lahaina fried soup salads. Dinner adds steak, fresh fish and pasta. Thirty wines under $30 a bottle. American. D. $–$$

yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work sushi magic. Large selection of Japanese saké. Sushi. D. $$$

garlic noodles

Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Sushi/ Japanese. D, N, RR. $$$

hapa ramen

ahi avo

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns

pad thai

sake cocktails

Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed scallops. Memorable tropical drinks, and happy hour from noon to 6 p.m. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$

IDE

Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$

Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors like sesame crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake mushroom butter soy sauce; and Korean gochujang risotto with salt and peppa’ mahi. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Shave Ice. $ See South Shore listing. Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 6679394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthconscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more. Bakery/Café. B, L. $ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 6696400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create some of Maui’s most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. See South Side listing. Myths of Maui, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6619119. Enjoy live music, Polynesian dance, and an islandMaui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

dining guide inspired buffet, complete with unearthing of the kalua pig from the imu. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$

breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$

Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Kick back with a tropical cocktail and pūpū (appetizer) beside the pool; the paparazzi should be there shortly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$

Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$

Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with Rising Star Chef Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$

rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and a great kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts. Reservations at Open Table. com. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$

WEST S Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thailemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$

Penne Pasta, 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 6616633. Dig into flavorful, affordable pasta dishes while people-watching from this cozy spot tucked down a Lahaina side street. Kid-friendly. Italian. L, D, N. $$

Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr. Kapalua, 6699600. You don’t have to golf to eat here! Try the breakfast chorizo and egg burrito smothered in green chiles and cheddar cheese, or a satisfying grilled mahimahi dinner with glazed asparagus, pickled tomatoes and salsa verde. Expansive offering of reasonably priced wine and beer. B, L, D. $–$$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy

Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $

Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Island cuisine speaks Italian! Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with a sweet zeppole, tiramisu or budino. Closed Tues– Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fried

Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Souffle. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$

Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with queso fundido, chimichangas, enchilada and chile relleno plates, awardwinning rotisserie chicken, and happy hour with muchas buenas prices! Mexican. L, D. $–$$

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a

Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

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dining guide Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $

Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D. RR. $$$$

Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko—then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$

SOUTH SHORE

SIDE Shark Pit, 170 Papalaua St., #104, Lahaina, 298-7776. This former food truck is now a brickand-mortar establishment with a stepped-up menu and expanded, creative cuisine. Pacific Rim. L, D. $-$$ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccanspiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, linecaught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. D, N. $$$$

Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps fans coming back for more with commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Tiki Tiki Thai, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911/ 283-5202. Filet mignon in creamy Thai chili sauce, chicken panang curry, and many vegetarian selections. Coconut mango sticky rice pudding will plunk you into tropical heaven. Thai. L, D. $–$$

Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups like liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Additional West Maui locations: 819 Front St., Lahaina; and in the Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. Shave Ice. $

Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Beginning to end, Taverna is a dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer. Italian. D. $$–$$$

‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$

Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, N. $ Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/ Italian. B, L, D. $$ Cheeseburger Grille and Tap Room, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748990. Hit the king crab and asparagus eggs Benedict for breakfast, head down to the beach for a swim and

Urban & hip neighborhood gathering place serving Italian comfort food. Located in the heart of Kapalua Resort.

; CRAFT COCKTAILS ; CRAFT TAP BEERS ; ITALIAN INSPIRED WINE SELECTIONS DINNER: 5:30PM TO CLOSING LATE NIGHT BAR & MENU: UNTIL 11PM 808-667-CIAO (2426) TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 VILLAGE ROAD KAPALUA RESORT

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

dining guide some sunbathing, then return for burgers and brew at this iconic restaurant. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$

lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$ Five Palms, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Watch the whales cruise by and enjoy lobster-tempura sushi and baked artichokes—half-price from 3 to 6 p.m. Breakfast is generously served until 2:30 p.m. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

1234. Carpaccio of Japanese hamachi with celeryginger shaved ice, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, crispy mahimahi on forbidden rice . . . love from first bite to last. Pacific Rim. D. $$$$ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$

SOUTH SHORE Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smoky bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$

Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675. Chef-owners Cody, Travis and Jared serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, glutenand dairy-free options. International. L, D. $

Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf-n-turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$

Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$

Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$

Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for 15 hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, one with blue cheese and apples. American. D. $–$$

Humble Market Kitchin, Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655. Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, D. $–$$$

Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For

Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-

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Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230. Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$

Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Local Boys Shave Ice, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779. How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation-

A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i WWW.FEASTATLELE .COM

dining guide era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Shave Ice. $ Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemonfeta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$

Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto offers signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$

Pā‘ia Fish Market South Side, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888. The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. See North Shore listing. The Pint & Cork, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038. Mac and cheese with black truffles, deviled eggs Rockefeller, poke bowls and burgers. International. B (Sat & Sun), L, D, N. $-$$

SOUTH SHO Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kalua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$

The Market, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 8792433. Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie. Deli. B, L, D. $$

Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8916476. Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$

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Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions and locally sourced ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$

Nutcharee’s Thai Food, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840. The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in masaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D. $–$$

Pizza Madness,1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches with chips and a pickle, some of the best pizza this side of the Pacific, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza L, D. $–$$ The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Produce gathered from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant. Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. D, N. $$-$$$$

Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, D. $-$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8948880. See West Side listing. Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing.

Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$

Shearwater Tavern, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 7932324. Gastropub food and drink have never been finer, as partners DK Kodama and Chuck Furuya tag team the bar and kitchen to create a venue worth the trek. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$

ORE

Two dinner entrees at Seascape Restaurant

SAT & SUN 5pm-9pm

FR ESH CAT C H DA ILY | O C EA N V I EW

Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Wolfgang Puck’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$

OPEN DAILY 10:30am-3pm Make your reservation today: 808.419.3071 mauioceancenter.com/dine Cannot be combined with other oﬀers, discounts or promotions. Expires 12/31/17.

Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six different ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759983. Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$ Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose a rosemary-

LOCAL FLAVORS EXPRESSED THROUGH CULINARY INNOVATION Sharing food with the people you love is a big part of traditional Hawaiian culture, and our fresh restaurant Ka’ana Kitchen serves up some of Maui’s best dishes family style. So grab your favorite humans, and share farm-to-table cuisine expertly prepared to stimulate your sense of adventure. CALL US at +1 808 243 4750 to book your reservation.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

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Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

CENTRAL

Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing.

Two exciting farm tours in one unique setting

GOURMET LUNCH

SEED to CUP

Explore our gardens and enjoy a gourmet lunch prepared in your presence with freshly harvested natural produce.

Learn about the growing and roasting of coffee beans and conclude with the “perfect cappuccino” .

TOURS ARE WEEKDAYS 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads, and entrèes like braised chocolate chipotle lamb shank with maizena. American/Pacific Rim. B (Sat–Sun), L, D (Mon–Sat). $–$$

Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650. This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing.

O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com

Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly describes this organic eatery’s pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. The taro veggie burgers and the poi açai bowl with fresh fruit are a delicious spin on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Vegan, Takeout Only. B, L. $ Fatt Chicks Burgers, Brews & Grill, 200 Halewaiu Rd., Waiehu, 242-6666. The 19th hole never tasted so good! Kim chee loco moco, bountiful salads and ‘ono burgers. Nuff said! Go eat! Pacific Regional. B, L. $

As Seen on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-in’s and Dives

Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are $2. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Fresh Streatery, 344-7929. Chef Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $

The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333. Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Chef Jeff Scheer’s harmony of flavors will woo you back for more. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$

Kahana - West Maui (808) 669-9010

Kihei - South Maui (808) 891-MISO (6476)

Kahana Manor, 4310 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy #111

Azeka Place Mauka, 1279 South Kihei Road #108

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ENTRA

garlic-crusted steak on roasted garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, Maui Brewery and wine selections. American. D. RR. $$$$

Poi by the Pound, 385 Ho‘ohana St., Kahului, 2839381. Eat like a local. Hawaiian. L, D. $

A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560. Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $

dining guide

“Treat your friends like family & your family like friends” Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893UPCOUNTRY —Big Manoli 0026. See West Side listing.

lovers and local plate-lunch eaters unite! Great food, reasonable prices. Local/Mexican. L, D. $

“Treat your friends like family & La Provence, 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313. The glass case overfllike ows with perfect croissants,& your family friends” “Treat your friends like family fruit tarts, and arguably the world’s best blueberry-

Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$

UPCOUNTRY Tin Roof, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753. Sheldon Simeon of Bravo TV’s Top Chef fame lets you build your own kau kau bowl with his savory offerings: sweet Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and kochujang sauce; seared furikaki-crusted fish with wasabi mayo and soy, and more. Pacific Rim. L. $ TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 2447311. Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves up plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, such as potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku. Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches are served in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $

Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Soups and sandwiches served with fresh local greens, but a favorite with diners is the portobello mushroom and bacon burger . . . need we say more? American. B, L. $

Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly. American/Pizza. B, L, D. $-$$.

—Big Manoli your likemuscle friends” mango family scones. On weekends, past Kula’s long—Big Manoli distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crêpe. No credit cards. French/Bakery. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun). $

“Treat your friends like family & your family like friends” Market Fresh Bistro, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao,

Farmacy Health Bar, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 868-0443. See Central listing.

—Bigfor Manoli 572-4877. Chef Justin Pardo brings a passion sustainable food to this courtyard gem. Try a breakfast frittata or pan-roasted crab cakes with corn succotash. Dinner Thursday through Saturday. Call for dates on special farm dinners. American. B, L, D. $–$$

“Treat your friends like family & your family like friends”

Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $-$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$-$$$$ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning. Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ La Isla Mexican Tamales, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 572-8258. Tamale

—Bigc’O Manoli O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacifi Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$

Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. Mexican. L, D. $$ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across from Maui Winery, find great deli fare, and hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef

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OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT

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Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive 100 Wailea Ike Drive, Wailea, Maui Located across& from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop TAKEOUT DELIVERY: 808.874.7499 Located on the Wailea Blue808.874.7499 Golf Course TAKEOUT & DELIVERY:

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ManolisPizzaCompany.com Great pizza made with whole wheat or gluten-free crusts. Wide variety

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ANA & LANA‘

dining guide

burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kalua pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE

Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Dine indoors or out. Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $

Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for blacksesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$-$$$

Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030. The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $

HĀNA

Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732. Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ Hāna Burger Food Truck at Hāna Ranch, 5670 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 268-2820. Grass-finished beef burgers, fish sandwiches and salads. Call for hours of service. American/Food Truck. L. $

The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hāna-sourced produce and fish are the basis for an original menu by Chef Isabelle Toland. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I

Malibu Farm, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Organic, farm-to-table fare and a sweeping ocean view. Start with quinoa oatmeal with coconut milk. For lunch, try the Caesar BLT salad or a burrata fruit salad with arugula, mango, papaya and candied mac nuts. American. B, L, $$–$$$.

Nobu Lāna‘i, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2832. Celeb chef Matsuhisa-san has handed the knife and hashi (chopsticks) to Chef Marlowe Lawenko at this beautiful open-air restaurant. Prepare to be amazed. Japanese. D, RR. $$–$$$$

One Forty, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Begin your day with creamy baked oatmeal or grilled ‘ahi with chipotle-hollandaise eggs Benedict. For dinner, try Chef Kemar Durfield’s beef filet with lobster-mashed potatoes; or moi, the fish of Hawaiian royalty, with taro gnocchi, papaya and pohole salad. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$–$$$$ More listings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

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J U N E 8 - 1 1 , 2 0 1 7 • K A PA L U A R E S O R T • M A U I Join Host Master Sommelier Michael Jordan, MS, CWE and a contingent of world-renoned winemakers, star-power

36TH ANNUAL

celebrity chefs and Maui’s own culinary stars.

INTERACTIVE WINE TASTING SEMINARS CELEBRITY CHEF COOKING DEMOS EVENING GALAS WITH LIVE ENTERTAINMENT E A RLY BIR D PR IC ING THR OU G H APRIL 3 0 T H! Sponsored in part by:

k a p a l u a w i n e a n d f o o d . c o m

calendar

Looking for more? Visit MauiMagazine.net/maui-events

Clockwise from top left: March 2, The Missing Generation; March 18, Kuana Torres Kahele; March 24, Bonnie Raitt; April 4–May 1, Adam Serra; Mar 4, Ram Dass Benefit Concert

MARCH THROUGH MARCH 22

Hawai‘i Contemporary Viewpoints Gallery Island artists display their latest works. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; Viewpoints GalleryMaui.com

garden programs around Maui. 5–8:30 p.m. 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea; GrowSomeGood.com

ploring aspects of being a woman. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

, APRIL 2

–MAY 6

Marc 2

The Missing Generation Castle Theater, Maui Arts & Cultural Center (MACC) Sean Dorsey Dance presents this powerful dance-theater piece that gives voice to survivors of the early AIDS epidemic. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

3-19

Dirty Rotten Scoundrels Historic ‘Īao Theater A pair of con men, a beautiful woman and the French Riviera elite collide in this irreverent farce based on the popular 1988 film. Fridays & Saturdays, 7:30 p.m.; Sundays, 3 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

Ram Dass Benefit Concert Castle Theater, MACC The Seva Foundation, which works to preserve and restore sight to people around the world, honors cofounder Ram Dass with a concert featuring Jackson Browne, Greg Leisz, Joan Baez, Krishna Das, and host Wavy Gravy. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Taste of School Gardens Hotel Wailea Grow Some Good’s fundraiser features top Maui chefs creating gourmet dishes with ingredients grown in school gardens; Proceeds benefit school-

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES

Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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Upcountry Sundays Acoustic Style Casanova Italian Restaurant and Deli Volunteer-run Mana‘o Radio goes live at this benefit showcase of local and visiting musicians. First Sunday of every month, 2–5 p.m. 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao; 242-5666; ManaoRadio.com

& APRIL 2 & 22

Blue‘Āina Reef Cleanup Lahaina Harbor Trilogy Excursions hosts this underwater cleanup along Maui’s reefs, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Suggested $30 donation benefits local nonprofits. Reserve your spot at SailTrilogy.com/helpmaui.

Ebb & Flow Ensemble Castle Theater, MACC Works by Maurice Duruflé, Bohuslav Martinů, Vivian Fine, Peter Schat, Robert Pollock, and others. Preconcert discussion at 2 p.m.; show at 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

–APRIL 3

Featured Artist Rob DeCamp Lahaina Arts Society’s Banyan Tree Gallery Rob DeCamp presents his nature photography. Exhibit open daily, 9 a.m.–5 p.m., reception March 10, 6–8 p.m. Old Lahaina Courthouse, 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; LahainaArts.com

They Rose at Dawn Castle Theater, MACC Aparna Ramaswamy, co-artistic director of Ragamala Dance Company, presents this solo work ex-

Mar 3, Apr 7 Mar 10, Apr 14 Mar 17, Apr 21 Mar 24, Apr 28 Mar 31

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei Fifth Friday Lāna‘i

Judy Bisgard: A Retrospective Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center The Hui’s Retrospective Series highlights Bisgard’s work and her contributions to Maui’s visual-arts community. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 5726560; HuiNoeau.com

Nogales: Storytellers in Cartel Country McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Video, art installations and storytelling explore the fatal shooting of a Mexican teenager by the U.S. Border Patrol. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org 7th Annual MAPA Spring Gala King Kamehameha Golf Club Come as your favorite cabaret star for a Parisian night on the town, featuring cabaret entertainment and delectable libations in this benefit for Maui Academy of Performing Arts. 6–10 p.m. 2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū; MauiAcademy.org

Kuana Torres Kahele McCoy Studio Theater, MACC This Hawaiian musician is known for the poetry of his lyrics. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Spring Pops with HAPA Castle Theater, MACC The Maui Pops Orchestra shares the stage with Hawaiian music group HAPA. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Bonnie Raitt A&B Amphitheater, MACC For nearly five decades, Raitt has combined blues, country and folk into a signature mix. The Grammy winner performs under the stars at 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Ho‘omau Maui Nui Botanical Gardens This benefit for Pūnana Leo o Maui Hawaiian

language immersion school features Hawaiian music, crafters, food booths, demonstrations, live and silent auctions, keiki (children’s) zone, and more. 9 a.m.–6 p.m. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Wailuku; Hoomau.com

ui a M

–APRIL 19

Doodles & Art from Doodles Viewpoints Gallery Scribbles and shapes shine at this fun art exhibit. Opening reception March 25, 5 p.m. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGallery Maui.com

What the Day Owes to the Night Castle Theater, MACC Choreographer Hervé Koubi leads his company through this highly physical work that includes capoeira, other martial arts, and urban and contemporary dance. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

The Largest Selection of Oceanfront Vacation Condominiums Lahaina • Ka’anapali • Kahana • Napili • Kapalua

RATES AS LOW AS $95/NIGHT

APRIL

Sneak Peek Extravaganza Aloha Aku Inn, Kīhei Maui OnStage presents a sneak peek at its 2017/ 2018 season, also featuring entertainment, food, and cocktails served oceanfront. 5–9 p.m. Tickets: 244-8680 or MauiOnStage.com

ch 1

855-836-0619 www.westmauicondos.com • info@chasenrainbows.com

Three Decembers Castle Theater, MACC Hawaii Opera Theater’s performance is based on Terrence McNally’s play about a Broadway star in the twilight of her career and her life. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

2-30

Art Maui Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Maui’s longest-running juried exhibit showcases multimedia works by Maui County artists. The gallery is open daily, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

-MAY 1

Featured Artists Lahaina Arts Society, Lahaina Victoria Wundram displays island-inspired watercolors in the Banyan Tree Gallery. In the Old Jail Gallery, Adam Serra’s oil paintings celebrate local landscapes. Open daily, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Old Lahaina Courthouse, 648 Wharf St., Lahaina

Green Room: Hope Jahren McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The Merwin Conservancy presents an evening with Hope Jahren, award-winning scientist and author of the bestselling memoir Lab Girl. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts. org (See story on page 36.)

Fantasia Ball Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Hosted by Imua Family Services, the popular gala helps fund therapeutic services for children with special needs. This year, the ball welcomes Broadway star Adrienne Warren, and includes a cocktail reception and chef-crafted dinner and entertainment. Keep the party going at the official after party, Fantasia on the Rock. 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali; ImuaFamilyServices.org

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calendar YouTube and Facebook views. Aiono, a multi-instrumentalist and hip-hop dancer, has collaborated with John Legend, Babyface, and others. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Julian Lage & Chris Eldridge McCoy Studio Theater, MACC This acoustic duo is known for pushing the envelope of folk, bluegrass, and jazz. Aoife O‘Donovan, lead singer for progressive bluegrass band Crooked Still, joins them onstage. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

The Art of Trash, April 8–29

8-29

The Art of Trash Maui Mall Discarded items become works of art in this playful exhibition that celebrates Earth Day. Daily, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului; 8772524; Facebook.com/ArtOfTrash

William Singe & Alex Aiono Castle Theater, MACC Singe is an Australian singer/songwriter whose videos have received hundreds of millions of

RETAIL GUIDE

See Homegrown Fashion, page 42.

Blue Ginger Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 871-7002; The Shops at Wailea, 891-0772; Whalers Village, 661-1666 Collections Maui 3677 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, 572-0781, CollectionsMauiInc.com Designing Wahine 3640 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, 573-0990, DesigningWahine.com Driftwood 1152 Makawao Ave, Makawao, 572-1152, DriftwoodMaui.com Gypsea Sol Maui GypseaSolMaui.com Hale Zen 180 Dickenson St, Lahaina, 661-4802, HaleZen.com Hanu Hawaii HanuHawaii.com Holiday & Co. 3681 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, 572-1470, HolidayAndCoMaui.com Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center 2841 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, 572-6560, HuiNoeau.com Kealopiko Kealopiko.com The Mercantile 3673 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, 572-1407 Origin Z Leather & ASSET by Origin Z SunshineShadowBazaar.com Pearl Butik 71 Baldwin Ave, Pā‘ia, 579-8899, PearlButik.com Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave, Kahului Roberta Ann Weisenburg Roberta-Ann.com RueBelle RueBelle.com Ry-n Shimabuku Makeup & Hair, Ry-nShimabuku.com Salt on the Rocks SaltOnTheRocks. BigCartel.com The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr, Wailea SugarHigh LoveStoned SugarHighLoveStoned.com Tamara Catz 83 Hāna Hwy, Pā‘ia, 579-9184, TamaraCatz.com UrbanOcean Designs UODesigns.com The Walking Company Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 871-6255; The Shops at Wailea, 891-8255; Whalers Village, 667-9255 Whalers Village 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy, Kā‘anapali Wings Hawaii 69 Hāna Hwy, Pā‘ia, 579-3110, WingsHawaiiShop.com

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Lonestar Castle Theater, MACC Known for merging their country roots and rich vocals, the group has achieved ten No. 1 country hits, including “I’m Already There,” “No News,” and “Come Cry to Me.” 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

14-15

Chinese Kite Festival Wo Hing Temple See handmade kites and craft your own. On Friday, learn the history of kites in China, and enjoy traditional music, entertainment, and food at Wo Hing Museum. On Saturday, test your skills and watch aerial displays by kite experts. 858 Front St., Lahaina; LahainaRestoration.org

APRIL

HIGHLIGHTS

‘Aipono Wine Dinner Son’z Steakhouse Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Tri-Star Restaurants’ Executive Chef Gene Sarmiento creates a special menu paired with classic and modern California wines, presented by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants. $135 per person; $25 from each dinner benefits UH–Maui Culinary Academy. Reception at 6 p.m., dinner at 6:30 p.m. 200 Nohea Kai Drive, Kā‘anapali Reservations: 667-4506

14-16

Celebration of the Arts The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua This weekend of free workshops, arts and crafts, cultural discussions, films, and more celebrates all things Hawaiian. 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua; CelebrationOfTheArts.org

Ha‘ikū Ho‘olaule‘a & Flower Festival Ha‘ikū Community Center Music, arts and crafts, plants and produce, historical displays and more. Proceeds benefit Ha‘ikū School, Ha‘ikū Community Association, and Boys & Girls Club. 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Hāna Hwy. at Pilialoha St.; HaikuHoolaulea.org

–JUNE 7

Spring Show Viewpoints Gallery Carleton, Michael Clements, Betty Hay Freeland and Casey McLain display their art. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

28-30

OluKai Ho‘olaule‘a Kanahā Beach Park This all-day event blends elite competition with family-friendly activities that celebrate Hawai‘i’s ocean culture. Watch some of the world’s best paddlers race the legendary eight-mile Māliko “downwinder,” then enjoy Hawaiian games, a lū‘au, hula and live music on dry land. OluKai.com

28-30

Maui Hawaiian Steel Guitar Festival Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Master steel-guitar players and aficionados from around the world gather for free performances, presentations, workshops, and jam sessions. Hula, lei making, ‘ukulele and storytelling take place throughout the weekend. 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; MauiSteelGuitarFestival.com

-MAY 14

A Few Good Men Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this play about military lawyers who tackle a murder case in Guantanamo

Out of This World Hyatt Regency Maui Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s 15th annual readers’ choice ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards celebrate Maui’s best chefs and restaurants. This sellout event benefits UH–Maui College’s Culinary Academy. See ad on page 21. 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Reserve your ticket at 2428331 or MauiMagazine.net.

Bay. Fridays & Saturdays, 7:30 p.m.; Sundays, 3 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; Maui OnStage.com

Hāpu‘u: A Hawaiian Opera Castle Theater, MACC Students from Kamehameha Schools incorporate fine art, chant, music and dance in this Hawaiianlanguage opera. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

MAY

Santana A&B Amphitheater, MACC Rolling Stone put Carlos Santana 15th on their list of the “100 Greatest Guitarists of All Time.” Watch him live under the stars. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s May-June 2017 print edition must be received by March 13. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

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presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH-Maui Culinary Academy. To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by:

The theme for the dinner will be:

California Wines: Classic vs. Modern Son’z Steakhouse Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 200 Nohea Kai Drive, Kā‘anapali Friday, April 14 Reception: 6 p.m. Dinner: 6:30 For reservations, call 667-4506. For the menu, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners $135 per person, all inclusive $25 from each dinner supports Maui Culinary Academy.

Compare and contrast the deliciously different wines of Grgich Hills Estate, Liquid Farm, Talley Vineyards, Failla Wines, ZD Wines, Lail Vineyards and Dolce. Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy promises a selection that will make this a night to remember! Executive chef and managing partner Geno Sarmiento began in the kitchen pantry at Nicholas Nickolas in Waikīkī, and became head line cook in just three years. In 1992, he relocated to Maui to open Nick’s Fishmarket, and later, under the leadership of Chef George Gomes, Jr., opened Sarento’s on the Beach, followed by Son’z Steakhouse. Sarmiento oversees all five Tri-Star Restaurant Group venues, including Manoli’s Pizza Company and Sarento’s Waikiki.

who’s who ‘AIPONO’S FINAL WINE DINNER FOR 2016 | Leis Family Class Act Restaurant | December 7, 2016 | Benefit for Maui Culinary Academy

JOSE MORALES

L to R: Linda Unemori, Mark Malone | Michael Martini, Jacque Martini | Mike & Luisa Guerreri, Adele Rugg | Sharon & Randy Conrads, Bud & Grace Allan

L to R: Todd & Doris McFarlane, Jill Sullivan, Carl & Gayle Marsh | Ivy & Howard Paleka | Darren Corrao (standing), Helen & Roger MacArthur | Allen Jr. & Charlene Vierra

HUI NO‘EAU WAILEA FOOD & WINE CELEBRATION | Hotel Wailea | November 18, 2016 | Benefit for Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center

MIEKO PHOTOGRAPHY

L to R: Jasmine Bustamente, Catherine Dodd, Shay Goodfellow, Andrea Buckman | Dr. James Ferrier & Robin Ferrier | Josh Stone, Andrew Grier, Jason Stone | Bob & Margo Rowland

L to R: Gary & Mary Albitz | Bond Camp & Erica Segerberg | Shannon & Todd Hoekstra | Patti Gardener, Diane Haynes Woodburn | Wade & Amanda Robson

JOSE MORALES

KOREATOWN ON THE BLOC | Ka‘ana Kitchen at Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort | December 10, 2016

L to R: DJ Sullivan, David Duran | Sang Kim, Bunda Kim, Anna Kim, Elan Feingold | Mijin Kang, Deuki Hong | James & Deanna Caulfield

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2017

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Presented by:

MAUI COUNTY

10th

2017

SAT., APRIL 1 • 9 AM - 4:30 PM MAUI TROPICAL PLANTATION IN WAIKAPU Public admission $5 per person. Children 12 and under are free. FREE Parking Purchase tickets for the Legacy Farmers Pancake Breakfast, Grand Taste and Chefs’ Collaboration Dinner at mauicountyfarmbureau.org

mauicountyfarmbureau.org

M A U I ’ S L A R G E S T A G R I C U LT U R A L E V E N T

#MauiAg FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS: • Legacy Farmers Pancake • Grown on Maui Breakfast and Bingo! Farmers Market Our annual breakfast to honor farm legends.This year we honor: Richard “Dick” Cameron, HC&S; Peter Baldwin, Piiholo Ranch; Doug MacCluer, Maui Pineapple Company, Maui Gold Pineapple Company; Dr. Wilbert Yee, Yee’s Orchard. Bingo offers great prizes. 8 - 11 am.

• Grand Taste Features 12 Locavore chefs. Meet Jeff Scheer of The Mill House. Last year’s winners Gevin Utrillo of Japengo, Ryan Luckey of Leilani’s on the Beach and Mike Lofaro of Humu at Grand Wailea with the island’s best chefs from Merriman’s Kapalua, Cane & Canoe, Three’s Bar & Grill, Hula Grill and more. Chefs vie for Judges’ Choice (selected by media judges), and Fan-Favorite (voted on by the general public). 2:30 - 4:30 pm.

• Liquid Garden

• Entertainment

Features fresh, flavourful and local produce and value-added products. Meet guest farmers from Hawai‘i island, Kaua‘i and O‘ahu 9 am - 4 pm.

• Keiki Fun Zone Catch entertainment by the Coolangots, Maui Taiko, magic show, and the Honoka’a Jazz Band with a variety of activities for kids and families. We will have cooking classes, livestock exhibit, bouncers, face painting, horseback and pony rides, barnyard games, and food and drinks. 10 am - 4:30 pm.

• Edible Hawaiian Islands presents Live Chefs’ Challenge

Join KPOA 93.5FM Morning Goddess, Alaka’i Paleka at the Main Stage with giveaways every hour and Maui Taiko, the Kamehameha Schools Maui Campus-Hawaiian Ensemble, Lehua Kalima and Shawn Pimentel, Napua Nakasone Greig and Halau Nalei Kaumaka O Uka and the Kaina Country Band. 9am - 4:30 pm

• Education and Information Meet Maui’s agricultural partners and the experts from the University of Hawaii’s College of Tropical Ag and Human Resources

Three chef teams compete in a friendly and fun LIVE cooking competition. 11:30 am - 1 pm.

Showcasing Maui wine, spirits and beer by MauiWine, Maui Brewing Company and Haliimaile Distillery. 1:30 - 4:30 pm. 21 and older. ID required.

#MauiAg

@MauiFarms

Maui County Ag Festival

Just Coast

Private snorkeling and kayak tour . . .

Kapalua

Kahana Nāpili-Honokōwai

Kā‘anapali

Lahaina

Olowalu

. . . or kayak whale watching (in season)

Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui. Story by Lehia Apana

6:45 a.m. Locals and savvy travelers know that the ocean is calmest at daybreak, making this early-morning adventure worth getting out of bed for. Skip the crowds and join Hawaiian Paddle Sports for a private three-hour kayak tour along the Olowalu coastline. Acrobatic humpbacks are a star attraction during whale season (November to May, peaking in February and March). Or grab a snorkel and mask and slip below the surface to discover a labyrinth of coral reefs, some as much as 500 years old. HawaiianPaddleSports.com

10:45 a.m. Arrive before the lunch rush at Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, where lines are known to flow out the door. Everything here is baked fresh and many ingredients are local; don’t leave without the deservedly famous banana cream pie. Order a sandwich or a savory pie to-go for a picturesque picnic lunch at your next destination. While you’re at it, stop in at Olowalu General Store, located next to Leoda’s, and stock up on beverages and snacks for the afternoon. 820 Olowalu Village Road, Olowalu; Leodas.com

1 p.m. See for yourself why D.T. Fleming Beach tops several “best beaches” lists. This well-appointed stretch of sand includes a lifeguard station, picnic tables, barbecue grills and showers; restrooms are wheelchair accessible and a ramp leads to the beach. Relax the afternoon away, or. . . . The Kapalua Coastal Walk is bookended by D.T. Fleming Beach to the north and Kapalua Beach to the south. In between, you’ll pass crescent bays and coastlines carved by nature. Don’t be fooled by its length—the easy 1.76-mile walk packs in enough scenery to fill your camera’s memory card. A highlight of this trail is Hāwea Point (near Kapalua Beach), where you’ll find resident ‘ua‘u kani, or wedge-tailed shearwaters. These pelagic seabirds spend most of their life on the ocean, and retreat to the shore to nest.

Leoda’s banana cream pie

Kapalua Coastal Walk

The rooftop at Fleetwood’s on Front St.

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MauiMagazine.net

Mick Fleetwood and friends

5:45 p.m. Reserve a spot at Fleetwood’s on Front St.’s rooftop bar in time for the sunset ceremony led by a Hawaiian kumu (teacher) or Scottish bagpiper—depending on the day—followed by dinner and cocktails or wine from Mick Fleetwood’s Private Cellar. Later, head downstairs for nightly live music, including appearances by the restaurant’s namesake rock legend and Maui resident. 744 Front St., Lahaina; FleetwoodsOnFrontSt.com Born and raised on Maui, Lehia Apana has explored the island from every angle—and she’s still at it. Each issue, we’ll highlight some of her favorite spots and new discoveries.

TOP & 2ND ROW LEFT: HAWAIIAN PADDLE SPORTS; 3RD ROW LEFT: CONN BRATTAIN; 3RD ROW RIGHT: LEODA'S; 4TH ROW & BOTTOM RIGHT: LEHIA APANA; BOTTOM LEFT: FLEETWOOD'S

a perfect day on maui

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ooking out on to a picture-perfect view can change your outlook on everything. At Montage Residences Kapalua Bay, you’ll find comfort and tranquility behind your front door and a lifetime of frame-worthy adventures just beyond your lanai. A limited selection of three- and four-bedroom private homes are available, starting at $3.4 Million. Exclusively listed by Lisa Hatem Real Estate Company.

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808-662-6551

Mon tageR esidencesK a palua Bay.com

This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure documents required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (collectively, “Montage”) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be terminated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.

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