Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine - January-February 2023 Preview

Gold Ají Amarillo sauce made from Maui grown

Legacy Oceanfront Estate • Kahana

Estates • Kapalua

Oceanfront Residence • Kahana

THE AQUARIUM OF HAWAI ʻ I

WE LIVE OCEAN ALOHA

Conservation is at the core of Ocean Aloha. Encounter Hawaiʻi’s unique ocean inhabitants, dive into rich Hawaiian culture, and embrace the ways you can inspire change.

KOHOLĀ | humpback whale

contents features

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DEEP SOUTH

Story Kyle Ellison

Photographs by Heather Ellison

The King’s Highway on the Mākena Coast takes hikers through lava fields to secluded beaches.

8 INNOVATIVE WAYS TO BE WELL ON MAUI

By Serene Gunnison, Cynthia Sweeney and Savy Janssen

Maui’s spas, botanical gardens, skin care products and more rejuvenate mind, body and soul.

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HONOLUA

Story and photographs by Erik Aeder

A renowned surf photographer reflects on his 50-year love affair with the immortal bay.

SMALL WONDER

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

An environmental entrepreneur goes upscale while downsizing his home to 1,000 square feet.

Photographs by Tony Novak-Clifford

Drawing inspiration from his Filipino roots and Maui upbringing, Kō Executive Chef Aris Aurelio brings an innovative approach to traditional flavors.

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Cat’s claw vines creep up monkeypod trees along the Honolua Access Trail on the way to Honolua Bay. Story page 46.

Contributors

Here are some of the talented folks who make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

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Publisher’s Letter

By Chris Amundson

Talk Story

Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless.

Craving Maui

Discover what’s new and exciting on Maui’s dining scene.

76 Hanana Calendar of Events

Looking for something to do? Here’s what’s happening.

80 A Hui Hou

Waves crash on the lava rocks of beautiful Secret Beach. 82 Ambassadors of Aloha

Photo by Andrew Shoemaker

JASON MOORE

Longtime readers might recognize the name of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s new photo editor. Early in his career, Jason Moore spent six years as the magazine’s senior staff photographer. In his new role as photo editor, Jason has the important task of making sure each story is illustrated with the most beautiful photos possible. Jason took up photography at age 6 and spent many childhood summers photographing Maui. By high school, he was shooting for his school paper. After graduating Southern Methodist University, he moved to the islands for good.

Jason has an impressively long list of career highlights. In 2011, he was honored with the Editor’s Pick in the National Geographic photo contest. In 2013, one of his whale research photos was chosen as a 60-by-80-foot permanent installation at the NOAA Inouye Regional Center in Pearl Harbor. In 2015, he shot footage and appeared in the IMAX documentary Humpback Whales.

SERENE GUNNISON

Staff writer Serene Gunnison loves everything about Maui, where she was born and raised. She was a competitive surfer in high school and remains an avid surfer to this day. She’s also a singer/guitarist who plays at cafes and restaurants around the island. Prior to joining the magazine, Serene wrote professionally for online outlets about Maui’s hospitality and tourism industry, from the best places to stay and eat, to more off-beat subjects, like Upcountry alpaca farms.

Writing for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is the realization of a longtime goal. “It’s always been a dream of mine to see my writing in print,” Serene said. “Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is one of my favorite publications, so seeing this dream come to fruition here makes it even sweeter.” Serene contributed a number of stories to this issue, including the Hanana events section, part of the “8 Innovative Ways to Be Well on Maui” feature and a Talk Story piece on the hardy ‘ōhi‘a lehua tree, a native species that has come to symbolize Hawaiian resilience.

KYLE AND HEATHER ELLISON

This issue’s story on hiking the King’s Highway comes to us from prolific outdoor adventure writer Kyle Ellison. The author of three Maui guidebooks, Kyle was raised on Maui, where he grew up exploring many of the island’s less frequently visited corners. “I enjoy escaping to parts of the island,” he said, “where there are lots of outdoor adventure opportunities but not that many people.”

On one recent assignment, Kyle trekked up Mauna Loa volcano on neighboring Hawai‘i Island and ended up hiking in a blizzard. Parts of that trail are no longer there, having recently been covered by lava. He’s traveled to more than 70 countries and has been to every U.S. state, with one exception – Rhode Island. While reporting the King’s Highway story, Kyle was joined by wife, adventure partner and photographer Heather Ellison, who shot the photos for this issue, including several spectacular drone shots. When not exploring the island’s southern coast, they live in Kula with their three young sons and document their travel adventures on Instagram at @gooutsideandexplore.

JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2023

VOL. 27, NO. 1

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is an international magazine dedicated to exploring the life and culture of Maui nui. There’s a saying known in the islands: Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too. Thanks for reading as we explore the islands, people and cultures of Maui Nui.

Publisher & Executive Editor Chris Amundson

Associate Publisher Angela Amundson

EDITORIAL

Executive Photo Editor Joshua Hardin

Assistant Editor Matt Masich

Photo Editor Jason Moore

Dining Editor Carla Tracy

Staff Writer Serene Gunnison

ADVERTISING SALES

Brooke Tadena, Tiera Conley

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Edie Mann, Heidi Carcella, Open Look Creative Services

SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Lea Kayton, Katie Evans, Janice Sudbeck

DIGITAL MEDIA

Azelan Amundson

SUBSCRIBE

Call 1-844-808-6284, visit MauiMagazine.net or return a subscription card from this issue to subscribe: 1 year (6 issues) for $25 or 2 years (12 issues) for $44. Call or email subscriptions@mauimagazine.net for fundraising opportunities and bulk rates.

ADVERTISE

For rates and premiere position availability, call (808) 242-8331 or email advertising@mauimagazine.net. Reservation deadlines are three months prior to publication dates.

CONTRIBUTE

Send queries, stories, photos and letters to the editor to editor@mauimagazine.net.

COPYRIGHT

All text, photography and artwork are copyright ©2023 by Flagship Publishing, Inc. For reprint permissions, email editor@mauimagazine.net.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

220 Imi Kala St, Unit 204H PO Box 1450 Wailuku, HI 96793-1450 (808)242-8331

MauiMagazine.net

Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

A Quicksand of Paradise

In this issue, we feature a dynamic photo of Sierra Larsen elegantly duck-diving under a wave at Honolua Bay. She clings to her board as a wave rolls over her.

Like a sea turtle coming up for air, her nose and face are just beginning to break the water’s surface. Above her, we can barely discern the ghostly, shimmering image of another surfer with arms extended, catching the ride of his, or her, life.

Like life, magazine storytelling is all about perspective, and we have renowned magazine surf photographer Erik Aeder to thank for Sierra's photo and others in his photo essay, “Honolua: A Maui surf photographer’s 50-year love affair,” which begins on page 42.

Through words and photos, Erik gives a viewpoint few of us will ever experience. His relationship with Maui, and Honolua Bay specifically, goes back nearly 50 years when he told his parents upon high school graduation that “traveling will be my education.” He soon found Maui and “fell into this quicksand of paradise.”

“Auntie” Silla Kaina’s paradise also has been on Maui’s northwest shoreline – a few bays south at Kapalua. As a child as young as 6, Silla remembers playing on the hillside above Kapalua Bay on the area set aside as recreation for plantation workers and their families. Her dad taught Silla and her siblings to catch he‘e (octopus) by hand. The tides, seasons and winds became second nature for young Silla. Over a lifetime here, the natural environment gave her life lessons that she now shares with guests at Montage Kapalua

Bay resort, located on the very land where she played as a child.

Silla helps us kick off a new initiative for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi called “Ambassadors of Aloha,” in which we interview Hawaiian heritage leaders across Maui Nui, and share – in their own words – stories of their lives and lessons they've learned along the way. We thank Auntie Silla and Montage Kapalua Bay for graciously sharing an authentic narrative with us (p. 82).

In my interview with Silla, we talked about being and doing pono – doing good and being righteous in our pursuits. A magazine has tremendous opportunity to do good. We tell stories that entertain and uplift. One issue at a time, we aim to answer the question: What makes Maui – Maui?

There is no one single answer, of course. Each person involved with Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi has a unique story to tell – writers, photographers, subscribers and advertising partners. Some of us, like Silla, have roots here that run generations deep. Others, like Erik, go back scores of decades. Others, like my family, a mere 10 years: first as tourists, then frequent visitors and now, residents.

Finally, other folks – like photographer Victor Schendel (“A Hui Hou” photo contest, p. 8o) – are regular visitors who are beginning to love and care for this special place. How could they not?

As part of our quest to showcase the wonder that makes Maui, Maui, we want to hear from you. Tell us your story. Write us a letter, send us an email or even pay us a visit. Thank you for reading, subscribing and, most importantly, for sharing your love of Maui with us. It really is Nō Ka ‘Oi, isn't it?

With Aloha, Chris Amundson Publisher chris@mauimagazine.net

Chris and Angela (behind the camera) Amundson took over as new owners of Maui Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi when founder Diane Woodburn retired on Oct. 1, 2022.

VOTE FOR YOUR FAVORITE MAUI RESTAURANTS IN THESE 40 CATEGORIES!

1. RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

This spot has best of everything — great food, service, value and ambiance.

2. BEST NEW RESTAURANT

Here’s my favorite spot that opened in 2022.

3. MOST “MAUI-EST”

This restaurant is quintessentially Maui — I love taking family and friends here!

4. BEST SERVICE

I can count on the staff here to be prompt, knowledgeable and attentive.

5. BEST OCEANFRONT DINING

Gorgeous views and salt-scented breezes pair perfectly with this well-crafted menu.

6. MOST ROMANTIC SETTING

I propose that this is the perfect place to pop the question!

7. BEST CHEF’S TABLE

For an intimate dining experience, look no further than this establishment.

8. BEST LOCAL FLAVOR

Come as you are and enjoy good food in a casual setting.

9. BEST HEALTHY FARE

Clean, fresh and lean — these folks are experts at making nutritious, flavorful food.

10. MOST INNOVATIVE MENU

This kitchen’s culinary creativity keeps me coming back for more.

11. BEST BUSINESS LUNCH

This is the perfect place to meet with colleagues or clients to seal the deal.

12. BEST HAPPY HOUR Cheers to my favorite after-work spot for drinks and pūpū with friends.

13. BEST ASIAN CUISINE

For great Chinese, Korean or Japanese cuisine, this is my first choice.

14. BEST SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE

When I’m craving Vietnamese, Thai or Filipino food, this is my go-to restaurant.

15. BEST BURGER

Where’s the beef (the taro or the turkey)? It’s here!

16. BEST HAWAI‘I REGIONAL CUISINE

This restaurant expertly combines the fresh and exotic flavors of the Islands.

17. BEST PACIFIC RIM CUISINE Dining here takes my taste buds on a trip across the Pacific and beyond.

18. BEST LŪ‘AU

Authentic island food and entertainment make this my favorite lū‘au.

19. BEST MEXICAN CUISINE

When I’m craving something South of the Border, I ándale here.

20. BEST ITALIAN CUISINE

This is the best spot to do as the Romans do.

21. BEST MEDITERRANEAN/MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE

For the love of pita (and hummus, gyros, falafel and couscous), dine here.

22. BEST PLATE LUNCH

Great local-style grindz? This one’s da kine!

23. BEST PIZZA

This upper-crust pizza is flat-out the best.

24. BEST NOODLES

From chow fun to pad Thai — this place has oodles of great noodles!

25. BEST FISH & SEAFOOD

When it comes to fresh fish and decadent preparation, this restaurant is a catch.

26. BEST STEAK

Here, my favorite cut of beef is always prepared to a T.

27. BEST SUSHI

Any way you roll it, this sushi is nō ka ‘oi!

28. BEST BREAKFAST

Here’s my favorite place to start the day.

29. BEST COFFEE SHOP

These guys serve great java, pastries and nibbles in a comfortable setting.

30. BEST FOOD TRUCK

This fast, tasty fare is heaven on wheels.

31. BEST RESTAURANT POKE

No one makes this iconic island dish better than these folks.

32. BEST SHAVE ICE

If I had a slush fund, here’s where I’d spend it.

33. BEST DESSERT

Top off your dining experience with this restaurant’s decadent delight.

34. BEST BAR

My name isn’t Norm, but everybody here knows who I am.

35. BEST HANDCRAFTED COCKTAILS

A toast to this venue’s masterful mixologists!

36. BEST LOBBY LOUNGE

A well-stocked bar and great atmosphere make this my favorite place to linger longer.

37. BEST WINE LIST

The sommelier at this venue uncorks the best!

38. BEST LATE-NIGHT DINING

It’s worth staying up past my bedtime to feast here.

39. BEST FARM-TO-TABLE

Fresh produce and locally raised meat make this place my No. 1 pick.

40. BEST GOURMET GRAB & GO

Don’t settle for greasy grub — this to-go food satisfies the pickiest of gourmands.

The scarlet flowers of the ‘Ōhi‘a lehua tree are instantly recognizable.

Fresh off the coconut wireless

Tenacious ‘Ōhi‘a lehua trees symbolize Hawaiian resilience

By SERENE GUNNISON

Bob Bangerter

In 2022, the hardy ‘ōhi‘a lehua tree was named the official ‘Hawaii State Endemic Tree’ by Governor David Ige, who called the woody perennial a “symbol of Hawai‘i.” The selection was apt. ‘Ōhi‘a lehua, which can develop into a towering tree or scraggly shrub, is a tenacious emblem of resilience.

‘Ōhi‘a trees are typically the first saplings to spring from fresh lava flows, their spindly stalks and vibrant, powderpuff blossoms erupting from the hardened earth with unstoppable force. The trees can withstand extreme drought and high winds and thrive in a range of climates, from boggy mountaintops to low-elevation lava plains. Today, ‘ōhi‘a is the most populous native tree in Hawai‘i, comprising nearly a million acres of forest across the state, including 80,000 acres on Maui.

The tree’s unbridled dominance has undoubtedly shaped Hawai‘i’s native ecosystem. ‘Ōhi‘a lehua forests are primary habitats for a host of native plants and birds, including endangered Hawaiian honeycreepers like the ‘i‘iwi, which rely on the trees for nectar, insect prey and shelter. The tree is also commonly used in landscaping.

In addition to ‘ōhi‘a lehua’s environmental significance, the tree is inextricably woven into the fabric of Hawaiian

culture. Ancient Hawaiians turned to ‘ōhi‘a lehua for a variety of uses, from medicinal and spiritual to mechanical, prompting mentions of the tree in countless oli, mele and mo‘olelo (chant, song and legend).

Despite centuries of unwavering fortitude, the ‘ōhi‘a lehua is amid a concerning plight: rapid ‘ōhi‘a death, also called ROD. First identified in 2014, ROD is a fungal pathogen that has the potential to kill healthy ‘ōhi‘a trees in days to weeks. ROD is prominent on Hawai‘i Island, with additional cases discovered on Maui, O‘ahu and Kaua‘i. The disease has the potential to wipe out entire swathes of otherwise healthy ‘ōhi‘a forests.

There is no known cure, but the public can help prevent the spread by avoiding transporting ‘ōhi‘a materials and cleaning gear, tools, shoes and clothes before and after entering forests.

On Maui, lovers of ‘ōhi‘a lehua can ogle at the trees from a safe distance at Hosmer Grove in Haleakalā National Park. Follow the short nature trail to the gorge overlook, where you can watch scarlet ‘i‘iwi flit around the ‘ōhi‘a lehua’s red and yellow blossoms. If treated with care, these remarkable trees will remain a vital part of Maui life for generations to come.

‘Ōhi‘a lehua forests cover some 80,000 acres on Maui. The forests are the primary habitat of many native plant and bird species. In recent years, the trees have been threatened by rapid ‘ōhi‘a death, caused by a fungal pathogen.

Bob Bangerter Adobe ©William

Bob Bangerter

Jordanne Perkins Painting from the heart

By CYNTHIA SWEENEY

Jordanne (Weinstein) Perkins paints to tell a story. Whether cows grazing in a green pasture, the sand and the waves at the beach, or even light that hits an Upcountry road, the everyday ordinary speaks to her soul.

She also paints with an intentional aspect of positivity, and as a result, her work resonates with people on an emotional level.

“I have people cry because it brings back the emotion of their own personal story for them, whether it happened in Maui, or reminds them of a family

@ivetteivens

member,” she said. “I’ve been told so many times that it just brings up joy and happiness every time they look at my paintings.”

Things didn’t start out that way.

Perkins was on track to become a successful graphic art director in her home state of New York, when a trip to Hawai‘i with her mother changed everything. Ready to return home, at the airport on Lāna‘i, her mother encouraged her to stay on the island for a little while longer.

“I said ‘Mom, I didn’t go to art school for five years to become a beach bum,’ ” Perkins said, but she decided to stay anyway.

Living meagerly on her savings, she quickly found inspiration – and the time – to paint. To her surprise, interest in her work from visitors and locals grew, as did her confidence. Perkins’ gold leaf pineapples were a hit and “started selling like crazy.” She opened a gallery on Lāna‘i in 2006, and her gallery in Makawao in 2009. Today, she has many collectors and repeat customers.

“It’s mind-boggling. Even though I’ve been in this business for 20 years, I still feel so blessed every time I sell a painting,” she said.

Perkins works only in oil and her style is reminiscent of the classic impressionists, but with a contemporary edge. She painted plein air exclusively for 10 years, until her two children were born. Then, “For five years I didn’t see the sunset,” she said.

Living on an island and painting the same scenes repeatedly, Perkins said she has to push herself. But as the seasons change, the light changes, and brings up a new story of living in paradise, and what she and others love about island life.

When people ask her which painting is her favorite, Perkins responds, “The last painting I painted. With every single painting I get to fall in love. It’s all about personal experience, as well as dream-like desires.”

Jordanne Gallery

3625 Baldwin Ave., Makawao

jordannefineart.com

(808) 563-0088 | IG: Jordanne_Gallery

Tiny bubbles in the brine

By BENTON SEN

Leaping from the water, breaking the ocean surface with majestic grace, as many as 12,000 humpback whales navigate their way from the Pacific Northwest, Alaska and beyond to Hawaiian waters each winter. Mysterious and powerful, these 40-ton gentle giants come here to breed and give birth – and to blow bubbles.

Though humpbacks have long been known to blow “bubble nets” as a hunting tactic to trap fish, Maui-based Whale Trust researchers recently released a paper suggesting the whales might also use bubbles in a romantic context.

While filming underwater in the Au‘au Channel off West Maui, a Whale Trust research team observed frolicking male humpbacks blowing bubbles onto the genitalia of a female humpback. The female tolerated this behavior and even seemed to aid in the reception of the bubbles.

Whale Trust co-founder Flip Nicklin first documented this whale bubbling phenomenon 20 years ago. “I had a little video camera, and the whales were moving slow enough so that I could keep up with them,” Nicklin said. “I was able to photograph a male whale blowing bubbles, going under the female floating on the surface.”

A renowned National Geographic photographer, Nicklin has spent nearly half a century swimming with whales in the wild, taking their pictures and telling their stories. Still, much about humpback whales remains a mystery – for instance, no one has ever seen humpbacks mating. On a scale of one to 10, Nicklin said, what we know about whales is less than one.

All the same, the Whale Trust team has a couple of theories on what this bubbling is all about. One theory posits that the bubbling activity stimulates the female prior to mating, or that it helps release chemical cues that signal to males

her readiness to mate. Another theory suggests the female may already be pregnant and about to give birth, in which case the bubbles could stimulate the release of hormones necessary for the birthing process.

Like the humpbacks, Nicklin spends each winter in Maui, where the shallow, calm and protected waters make it one of the best places for watching and studying whales. When humpbacks make their journey to Maui, the first ones show up sometime in October and stay as late as May. In Hawai‘i, they come and go like tourists. Asked about the best way to photograph whales, Nicklin smiled: “You just spend as much time with them as you can and keep remembering that when you are not getting great pictures, you are still in Maui.”

Blowing bubbles may play role in whale romance

Flip Nicklin/Minden Pictures

DOUBLE R GIFTS Conveniently located inside the Wharf Cinema Center, you’ll find unique gifts to take home from Maui. From handcrafted crochet items, ornaments, and island figurines – this is your one-stop-shop for kids and adults.

658 Front St., Lāhainā | 808-667-6808 agbayani.romela@yahoo.com

PAUWELA BEVERAGE COMPANY is a kombucha tea, water kefir and hard kombucha brewery located in Haiku, Maui. Visit their tasting room and enjoy 15 flavors, fresh on tap. Brewery tours are also available!

375 W Kuiaha Rd., Ha‘ikū | 808-707-0502 | pauwelabeverage.com

IG @pauwelabeverage | FB @Pauwela Beverage Company

STUDIO22K

Men love gold, too! And Mick Fleetwood looks great in his custom-made 22k gold jewelry. See what else artist Sherri Dhyan is working on at her studio in the beautiful beach town of Pā‘ia. 161B Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia 808-579-8167 studio22k.com

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FOREVER H AND A MAUI

Owner Romela Agbayani designs and sews these adorable Hawaiian dresses and accessories for 18-inch American Girl dolls, as well as matching dresses and accessories for girls of all ages.

ALPHA MAUI Our local clothing brand features original designs, artwork and photography on products such as caps, watches, leggings, T-shirts and accessories. We use all-natural materials and encourage adventure and exploration of the outdoors. 3494 Old Haleakalā Hwy., Makawao 808-633-2328 | alphamaui808.com

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658 Front St., Lāhainā foreverhandamaui.com

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808-661-1760

808-276-0960

808-276-3838

Starting at the Keone‘ō‘io Trailhead, the trail hugs the coast, where the crash of waves on rocks fills the air as hikers gaze up at Haleakalā's summit some 10,000 feet above.

Hiking the Ma - kena Coast on the King ‚s Highway

Story by Kyle Ellison |

Photographs by Heather Ellison

or the first time visitor, Keone‘ō‘io, on Maui’s southern coast, might look completely empty. With the sole exception of a faded green port-a-potty and a nearby, gated luxury home, there doesn’t seem to be very much here: no buildings, no stores – no pavement. But spend a day on this rugged shore, where South Maui runs out of road, and you’ll find this outpost isn’t empty – but full – of adventure, history and color. Just seven miles south of manicured Wailea, Keone‘ō‘io is anything but. Here lies a windswept, rocky hinterland that crosses a swath of jagged black lava that was born from Maui’s last eruption. Oral accounts and explorers’ logs suggest that took place in 1790, but radiocarbon dating of the rocks puts it closer to 1600. Regardless, when driving the narrow entrance road across the craggy field, you can clearly make out where lava emerged from the splatter cone, Kalua o Lapa, and left its mark

Much of the trail traverses jagged a'a lava from Haleakalā's last eruption; closed-toed shoe are a must. The trail also passes numerous archaeological sites, where rock walls provide evidence of people who populated this coastline for centuries.

on the coastal landscape, like a spilled can of black paint.

Also known as “La Perouse Bay,” this sheltered cove at the end of the road is where the French explorer, Jean-François de Galáup, comte de La Pérouse, became the first Westerner to leave footprints on Maui when he toured this coastline in 1786. During that visit he noted four or five villages, each with 10 to 12 thatched roof houses, built out of lava rock walls.

Fast-forward a couple of centuries, and those rock walls are still here today. They’re part of a vast archaeological site that’s seemingly frozen in time, and where visitors are asked to tread carefully, and with respect, so as not to disturb any stones.

While the parking lot at Keone‘ō‘io may be the end of the road, it’s the gateway to one of Maui’s most scenic and fascinating adventures on foot. There are also times, during periods of light winds, and when seas are glassy and calm, where the bay is a popular spot to go snorkel, and pods of nai‘a, or Hawaiian Spinner dolphins, occasionally venture near shore.

Be warned, however, for all its beauty, this hiking journey is only for those who come extremely prepared. Jagged shards of a‘a lava will rip rubber slippers to shreds, and there’s no cell service, water, food, facilities, rangers – or shade. The sun can be searing by 8 am, and to

ensure you have enough water for the journey, pack double the amount you’d normally bring, and leave an extra bottle in the car, so it’s waiting there when you’re done. Or, to escape the brutal heat, hike at dawn and dusk – though be sure to also pack a headlamp if you’re planning to watch sunset from the trail.

That said, you don’t have to walk the entire six miles to experience this coastline’s magic. The first half-mile features thundering blowholes, which, during days with large surf and high tides, send sea spray in to the sky. Small pockets of soft white sand – just large enough for a single beach chair – sit tucked between fingers of jet-black lava, gazing out toward turquoise coves. Yellow beans from kiawe trees line a sandy footpath that leads to beaches completely covered with white coral, and if you look closely, you might encounter a herd of wild goats.

After the first mile – which is the easiest and most accessible – the trail reaches an unmarked junction and splits into two separate adventures. One leads to the light tower at Cape Hanamanioa, and the other crosses a two-mile void along the Hoapili Trail.

Bear left, along Hoapili Trail, and soon you’ll be following the rocky footsteps of ancient Hawaiian royalty. This path was part of the “King’s Highway,” which once encircled the island, and this particularly impressive – and

When the trail turns inland and connects with the historic Hoapili Trail, or King's Highway, one can really begin to make out the curbs that made this trail a 19th century engineering marvel. This stretch was commissioned by Gov. Hoapili in 1830.

Just prior to Kanaio Beach, a spur trail leads to a coconut grove and hidden Keawanaku Beach. Waves and currents are usually strong, but on the calmest of days, the intrepid can jump from the rocks and take a refreshing dip. Baking under a relentless sun, the beach is covered with kiawe thorns, fish bones and sun-bleached crabs.

modern – stretch was commissioned in 1830 by Governor Hoapili. Constructed by laborers as a form of punishment for sins, including adultery, the improvements to a narrow, preexisting path, were lauded by early visitors and historians as a feat of early engineering.

The original route was widened from a footpath to one which could accommodate horses, and the lava rock curbs that line each side led the Rev. Harry T. Cheever, in his 1851 book, Life In The Sandwich Islands, to label the trail “the noblest and best Hawaiian work of internal improvement I have anywhere seen.”

More than just a walk back in time, however, the Hoapili Trail allows modern explorers to access hidden, tucked away beaches that only the hardiest fishermen and hikers will ever have the chance to see.

One, Keawanaku, is set at the base of a coconut grove that springs from the chaos of black lava. It’s set down a spur trail, and out of view, of the main, much wider path, but follow a trail that leads toward the palm trees, and you’ll soon reach an enclave of rocky gray sand,

which on calm days, beckons a swim. Currents and waves can be strong here, however, so do so at your own risk.

Even if you don’t choose to splash in the surf, you can still make out some ancient home sites that sit by the base of the palms. Abandoned around 150 years ago, the simple sites, with four rock walls, hearken an amazing, almost incomprehensible time, when Native Hawaiians didn’t just survive on this coast, but also managed to thrive.

Continue on, to Kanaio Beach – which is the furthest section of Hoapili Trail that’s open to public hikers – a large shoreline of bleached white coral abuts a tumultuous sea. While the beach doesn’t offer much in the way of swimming, it’s the sheer isolation and sense of accomplishment that offer the greatest reward. Here is a spot where the only sounds are of crashing waves, the whistle of wind, and your own feet striking the shore. There’s a raw and powerful energy to being in rarely visited spots, as nature has a way of hitting our “reset,” and reminding us that, in the larger scope of time, how small we really are.

You can find this same scenic, silent escape on the Cape Hanamanioa cliffs – a route that is much more accessible, and shorter, than the trek to Kanaio Beach. Granted, you don’t get the chance to hike the historic Hoapili Trail, but it’s a trade-off for sweeping ocean views that include the backside of Molokini Crater, and the island of Kaho‘olawe, in the distance.

After half a mile of crunching across lava rocks from the junction with Hoapili Trail, the humble light tower at Cape Hanamanioa suddenly flashes into view. From this elevated perch, about thirty feet above the cobalt sea, hikers are rewarded with unobstructed views that stretch from Haleakalā’s 10,000-foot summit, to a distant horizon where the closest landmass is 1,300 miles away.

Standing atop these wind-battered rocks, there’s a grandiose sense of serenity, and seclusion, that almost acts as an untethering, of sorts, from our hyper-connected world. Here it’s possible to sit and be present, to bask in the fullness of emptiness, and enjoy this nexus of land and sea, on a coast that time has forgotten.

Much of the salt-and-pepper colored shoreline is a mosaic of jet black lava rock and white, sun bleached coral.

HOAPILI TRAIL

Mākena is 5 miles northwest on Makena Road from Trailhead and Parking Lot. Hoapili Trail/ King's Highway

Keone‘ōi‘o

Trailhead & Parking Lot

Hikers can take two main trails: one that leads to Cape Hanamanioa lighthouse and another that follows the Hoapili Trail and ends at Kaniao Beach. Those who get an early start can beat the heat – and catch the sunrise.

Cape Hanamanioa

Keawanaku

Hanamanioa Light

La Perouse Bay

Kanaio Beach

From the elevated perch by Hanamanioa Lighthouse, hikers can soak up sweeping ocean views and watch waves detonate on the rocks.

Innovative Ways TO BE WELL ON MAUI

By SERENE GUNNISON, CYNTHIA SWEENEY and SAVY JANSSEN

the world can be a busy place, and sometimes we put off or forget to do even simple things to take care of ourselves. Luckily, Maui is blessed with an abundance of easily accessible healing products and modalities that empower mind, body and soul with wellness and rejuvenation. We have luxurious spas and skin care products, botanical gardens, water yoga, organic juices for increased energy or cleansing, even light, sound and color therapy to renew our physical, emotional, and spiritual well-being. Take some time to put the focus on you, and be well, Maui-style.

Fresh Air Therapeutics Garden of Eden | Hāna

There is an irrefutable link between wellness and our connection with the natural world. Anecdotal evidence points to nature’s positive effect on mental health, but scientists studying shinrin-yoku, the Japanese practice of forest “bathing,” have found that prolonged time in nature can have measurable physiological benefits. Thus, a visit to Maui’s Garden of Eden Arboretum and Botanical Garden might be precisely what the doctor ordered.

Tucked along the sinuous road to Hāna, this 26-acre botanical garden is home to a manicured mélange of exotic trees and native plants. Visitors can meander through a web of lush walking trails and bask in views of Keōpuka Rock and Puohokamoa Falls.

Originally intended to house a recording studio, a series of divine providences led founder Alan Bradbury to develop his paradisiacal garden where visitors could reconnect with nature. And in a world full of screens and handheld devices, Bradbury’s garden is more medicinal than ever.

Maui Garden of Eden

Maui Garden of Eden

Farm to Bottle Elixir r.i.p.e. juice market | Kahului

If we are what we eat, at r.i.p.e. juice market in Kahului, there’s a convenient, healthy fix – raw, cold-pressed juices and cleanses. Customers can grab-n-go fresh selections of popular blends, or customize their own juice made from fresh and local Maui-grown produce.

With anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that can help support the immune system, the health benefits of juices are potentially endless. r.i.p.e.’s Blue Hawai’i juice, their most popular, is a blend of pineapple, ginger, lemon, blue spirulina and cayenne pepper. Delicious and nutritious, this juice offers

anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, immune and digestive support, and is great for exercise recovery.

As for cleanses, “This time of year, it seems like everybody wants to do a cleanse,” said Jean Marie Johnson, who owns r.i.p.e. along with her husband, Scott. The Johnsons formulate blends for beginners and those who are more experienced with cleanses. Preordering a few days ahead before coming into the store at 444 Hāna Highway is highly recommended and can be done online or by phone.

Poised Paddling

Maui SUP Yoga | Lāhainā

In the calm morning at Shark Pit Beach, before the cruel Lāhainā sun reaches its zenith, a flotilla of yogis balance aboard bulky stand-up paddle boards, their hands reaching skyward as they hold Virabhadrasana, warrior one pose. This is Maui SUP Yoga, an aptly-named offering that hosts floating yoga classes on stand-up paddle boards. But according to owner Nichole Lee Sulimani, yoga is just a fragment of the experience.

“Maui SUP Yoga isn’t about doing headstands or crazy poses,” Sulimani said, “it’s really just about experiencing Maui and coming into this really balanced and calm place.”

Maui SUP Yoga classes commence with an overview of Maui’s history and culture, followed by a practice paddle and an alluring journey through shallow waters to the class site. Regardless of whether you’re a beginner paddler or a first-time yogi, Maui SUP Yoga offers a meditative antidote to busy minds and busy lives.

mauisupyoga.com | (808) 339-3689

Jason Moore

Hawaiian-Style Healing Ho‘omana Spa | Makawao

At Ho‘omana Spa, innovative wellness means reviving time-honored healing techniques. Headed by Jeana Iwalani Naluai, a longtime practitioner of Lomi Lomi. Ho‘omana Spa breathes new life into traditional practices like lomilomi massage, giving guests a chance to experience authentic Hawaiian healing in a contemporary spa setting. During treatments, Naluai draws on her lā‘au lapa‘au (plant medicine) expertise and the cleansing mana of prayer.

“At Ho‘omana, you hear chanting all day,” Naluai said. “It’s like a house of prayer.”

Ho‘omana Spa’s menu features massages, herbal baths and refreshed takes on familial Hawaiian rituals. La‘au lapa‘au is at the core of Ho‘omana’s operations, with over 40 treatment-ready native herbs growing on the spa’s sanctuary-like grounds. While most of Maui’s day spas are neatly tucked in strip malls or opulent beachside resorts, Ho‘omana sits on 2 acres on Pi‘iholo Road near Makawao Forest Reserve, inviting a tranquil experience and a deeper connection to the ‘aina.

Jason Moore

Jason Moore

Cold Plunge Power  Elevate | Ha’ikū

Consciously facing your fight or flight reflexes isn’t something most people seek out, but at Elevate, previously known as Studio 303, the experience is welcomed. From its space in a former pineapple cannery in Ha'ikū, Elevate offers several hot and cold therapies, but the most notable service is the cold plunge, where guests soak in 39-degree water for up to three minutes.

Owner Yasmine Anderson initially turned to cold plunges for pain relief, but she soon discovered something more significant. “The cold plunge has proven how mentally strong I am,” said Anderson, explaining the frigid waters trigger a fight or flight response. “Your body immediately wants to panic. To be able to suppress that is powerful.”

In addition to challenging physiological reactions and aiding in pain relief, cold plunges support muscle repair, reduce inflammation and improve mental health. Elevate also features collagen-boosting red-light therapies and infrared saunas, which guests often pair with cold plunges for contrast therapy.

elevate-maui.com

The Energizer Egg Mind and Body Harmonics

Kīhei

We humans are energized beings, and a new wellness approach focuses directly on energy by using an egg. That’s right, an egg.

The Harmonic Egg is a space-agelooking chamber that uses light, color and frequency to activate the body’s natural ability to balance and restore itself. It combines the science of bioresonance with the ancient wisdom of sacred geometry.

Mind and Body Harmonics owner Sandy Schneider had nearly instant healing in a Harmonic Egg in St. Louis and knew she had to bring one to Maui – the first in Hawaii.

The holistic energy therapy helps the body heal from an array of health issues, including back pain, anxiety, “spiritual dissonance” and emotional issues, or, in Schneider’s case, eczema, she said.

During an initial coaching session, a combination of colored light and music (including by Maui’s own Hawaiian slack-key guitar musician George Kahumoku Jr.) is customized to promote your own healing intention. Then, the egg is programmed, and all you have to do is relax in a zerogravity chair and let the chamber do the rest. Sessions at Mind and Body Harmonics, 95 E Lipoa St., last 90 minutes, 50 of which are spent in the egg.

mindandbodyharmonics.com (808) 856-0054

Skincare By Nature To Be Organics | Wailuku

Even a small act of taking care of yourself can be enough to boost your health and mood. Skin, our largest organ, loves some love with luxurious bath bars and rejuvenating aromatic sprays from To Be Organics. These self-care products are all about feeling good about yourself, how you look, and helping

you give life your best every day.

As a licensed cosmetologist, esthetician, holistic practitioner and massage therapist for 25 years on Maui, owner Karli Rose saw a need for a different kind of skincare product.

That’s why all ingredients are sourced as locally as possible, and products contain no synthetic fragrances, colors, dyes or palm oil, and are uniquely made without water. “So that way, we don’t have to use preservatives,

which are the prime cause of allergies for sensitive skin," Karli said.

Production, label design and eco-conscious packaging are all done onsite at To Be Organic’s storefront at 485 Waiale Rd. in Wailuku, where you can also chat with Rose about what’s right for you to look and feel beautiful about yourself every day.

tobeorganics.com | (808) 868-0288

Brittany Baker

Aerial Elegance

Uplift Maui | Wailea

With views of the tranquil Pacific Ocean and gently swaying palm fronds, the Uplift Maui studio at Hotel Wailea breathes calm. Inside, colorful silks sway, suspended from the ceiling, supporting participants as they stretch and spiral through space, like Cirque du Soleil in slow motion.

While yoga in the air may seem anything but relaxing, the health and emotional benefits of aerial yoga are numerous: The silks aid deep stretching and body alignment, which regulates the nervous system, increases circulation and relieves pain.

It’s also playful, fun and “forces you to be present,” said Uplift Maui owner and Hotel Wailea Wellness Director Andre “Dre” Fors. While Fors touts the benefits of aerial yoga, she recognizes the obvious challenges of performing yoga while suspended in the air.

“You have to allow yourself to feel vulnerable and be scared,” she said. “In that process, you find support in a positive and uplifting environment, and can find healing.”

Uplift Maui’s offerings extend beyond aerial yoga, including mat yoga, aerial dance, meditation, sound healing, trapeze and a different Mindful week event every Monday for hotel guests and kama'āina.

Uplift Maui

WHERE WELLNESS IS PERSONAL

At ‘Awili Spa and Salon, we create bespoke, customized treatments designed with your personal wellness goals in mind. Choose your preferred combination of experiences from our unique body treatments, massages, facials and luxury salon services. Featuring the world’s most advanced therapies, innovative skin care lines and locally crafted products. Entwine your body and soul at ‘Awili Spa and Salon.

Dirk “Mouse” Brace surfs a wave at the Cave at Honolua Bay in 1985. This scene was captured by photographer Erik Aeder, who has watched surfing evolve in the 50 years he has spent photographing surfers at the Bay.

A Maui surf photographer's 50-year love affair

Story and photographs by ERIK AEDER

Sierra Larsen gracefully duck dives under a Honolua Bay wave in 2016.

y high school notebooks were filled with sketches of perfect tropical bays I had never seen – until I came to Maui in January 1975.

Tropical bays are a surfer’s heaven. The water is clear. The coral reef is abundant. The waves build and break to one side.

In a tropical bay, surfers like me can live out their fantasies riding barrels until we’re too sunburnt to go on, then take shelter from the sun in the shade of a coconut tree, cook fish on an open fire, and hang out with our surf buddies late into the night.

Not long after I discovered Maui, Honolua became my tropical bay – and the object of nearly 50-year obsession entwined with surfing and surf photography.

“Traveling will be my education,” I told my parents when I graduated from high school in La Jolla, California. “Good luck if you can make it,” they told me.

One year at the University of Guam got me addicted to tropical life. Determined to travel the world, I headed straight for Maui as my first stop and fell into this quicksand of paradise.

Back then, there were no buildings visible from the Bay on Maui’s northwest coast. We were in our own private paradise, like the Hawaiians who lived here for centuries before European contact.

Surfing at Honolua Bay began many centuries ago with the pre-contact Hawaiians. The area was settled between 600-1100. By about 1500, Chief Pi‘ilani unified west Maui with its six bays, including Honolua. According to legend, one of his sons, Kiha‘a‘pi‘ilani, surfed Honolua.

Through King Kamehameha III’s Great Māhele in 1852, most of Honolua was awarded to William C. Lunalilo, who became king. After his death, the land changed hands several times and eventually went to H.P. Baldwin in 1889. Honolua and its Lipoa Point were used in a variety of ways – coffee and cattle ranches, a secondary airplane landing site in 1920, the West Maui Golf Club in 1926 and pineapple cultivation until the 1970s. In 1974, portions became under the control of Kapalua Land Co., which eventually led to a hotel, condominiums and a high-end subdivision being built at Kapalua south of the Bay.

In the late 1930s, two Maui brothers, Don and Tario Uchimura, were some of the earliest nonHawaiian surfers, along with Woody Brown in the early 1940s. They rode solid wood boards that weighed more than 80 pounds. Don had the first surf shop on Maui in Wailuku’s Happy Valley in the 1960s. George Opelu, Snake Ah Hee, Buddy Boy Kaohi and the Aluli family were well-known Honolua surfers in the ’60s, along with a growing list of California transplants who were seeking nirvana at the end of the surfing rainbow.

The layout of the surf break at the Bay means anyone losing their board in a wave will see it go into the rocks at the base of the cliffs, the “Cave” is the Bay’s premier break and is an appropriate name for the wave because of an actual cave in the rock cliff face that fronts the wave. It swallows lost boards and dares riders to chase after them into its surging void.

With the advent of board leashes in the early ’70s, riders could afford to take far more chances at the Bay without losing their boards. Before leashes, there were up to 20 broken boards on a weekend that riders would race off to repair in town and be back the next day.

Honolua is a long bay with at least five breaks, including the Cave. Keiki Bowl is inside the Cave and offers a small hollow running wall. Outside Point has the mellowest of waves but has a rock obstacle protruding from the water.

Coconut Grove is a fast, hollow glory ride that has given many riders their ultimate thrill. Subs is the farthest out and breaks best large on a northeast direction when these swells are at their maximum. When the Bay is at its best it is a serious wave that demands respect. Approach it with humility and you might be rewarded with the ride of your life.

When I arrived to Hawai‘i, I tried out all the surf spots on Maui and O‘ahu to get that classic surf shot. Honolua was by far my favorite. As I would learn soon enough, swimming

on O‘ahu's North Shore at famous breaks like Pipeline tests your legs and lungs, while Honolua has a more predictable sweet spot for surfing and surf photography.

Honolua Bay’s Cave is moody like all surf spots, but when it is at its best, it is one of the greatest waves on earth. The first time I swam out to shoot photos at the Bay, I watched how the surfers would run out between surges to a jump off rock at Outside Point, then paddle across behind the waves to the Cave to get in position to catch a wave. Timing the jump-off is not easy. Get it wrong and a set of waves would drag me inside the break, where I would hide behind the rock at Outside Point until the set of waves was over, then swim across.

Once I learned the timing to reach the Cave, I would say “hi” to the surfers and swim inside to take up position for the show. A set of waves would approach, and I would do my best to kick into the right spot as a surfer suddenly turned and, with a couple strokes, surfed into the most perfectly formed wall of water beginning its fast race to the end of its existence.

The surfer would drop down to the bottom of the wave and stall long enough so when he came up into the wave face, the lip would pitch over him, and he would be locked into the ultimate thrill ride of any surfer’s dream.

As I swam in front of the wave, I held my position with camera raised and focused, then I fired shots until I went underwater. Timing

Surfers make their way down the trail at the Cave in 2016. From above, it is possible to see the coral reef that catches the swell at Honolua Bay.

the last duck underwater is a fine line, too: Duck too soon and miss the best shot; stay in the face of the wave too long and you get sucked up and over with the lip – most likely hit the reef.

If I did what I set out to do, I recorded an intimate view of a fantastic ride.

For decades, surfing magazines have glamorized Honolua Bay as an idyllic surfing location that every surfer should experience at least once in their lives. When I first came to Maui, Honolua was quickly becoming discovered by an influx of surfers from California. In 1975, Surfer magazine published an article about the Bay titled “Paradise Lost.” Word travels fast in the surfing community, and Maui had all the ingredients  for an escape  from California’s freeways and cold water.

Honolua Bay became a powerful magnet for surfers of all levels of ability. From the top professionals who have come to ride forecasted swells, to the escapist looking for that transcendent experience. In the early ’70s, the Bay hosted championship surfers like Nat Young from Australia and famous pipeline surfer Gerry Lopez – at the time, both were developing

In 1975, Peter Powell watches the waves at Coconut Grove from the 1950 Chevrolet Deluxe he and Erik Aeder drove to the Bay. Right, Mark Anderson pulls into a barrel at the Cave in 2005.

completely new designs of surfboards and found the Bay’s classic waves the perfect testing ground.The years have provided many stories of incredible rides and moments of tales at the Bay: from local surfers Lloyd Ishimine and artist Christian Riese Lassen riding deep in the barrel and carving high off the lip in the late ’70s, to the supreme stylist Albert Jenks’ classic stretch nose rides through the tube.

Fifty years later, Mark Anderson is still getting incredible barrels at a wave he knows better than anyone and creates beautiful surfboards ridden by many of the local carvers. Brothers Tide and Kiva Rivers have seen their share of monumental moments and even shared a classic pitching tube together at the Cave in 2012. In the late ’80s, Laird Hamilton powered his way into incredible rides before he went on to pioneer the biggest waves in the world at Pe'ahi on Maui’s North Shore.

The Honolua Surf Co. Legends of the Bay surf contest (Jan. 14-Feb. 28, 2023) has been running for more than 25 years and provides any willing surfers a chance to surf classic Cave waves with only five other surfers – a rare treat these days.

In the days when pineapple was farmed here, there was a sweet smell that lingered in the air. Black ash rained down on the blue water of the Bay when the sugar cane fields were burnt before harvest. Trucks loaded with pineapples would blow their horn as they approached the

sharp curve to warn drivers coming the other way that it was swinging wide. As the horn blew in the distance, I remember watching sets of waves rotate around the point like spokes on a bicycle wheel. Surfers scrambled, paddling hard to be in position.

We would get up early – the dawn patrol. Our mission was to score less crowded surf. It often rained the night before, and the muddy surfer trail down the cliff needed negotiating with care. One morning I tried to stay on my feet, to no avail. I went down on my butt and slid down the trail toward the edge of the cliff until I extended my free hand like a ski pole and pivoted around a turn, narrowly avoiding the cliff.

Many cars (especially rentals) have been stuck and needed to be towed out, often by opportunistic locals with four-wheel drive trucks. Over the years, some cars went over the cliff and landed permanently on the rocks below to slowly rust to the axles. Whether they went over by sliding in the mud or by not using the parking brake, only the owners knew.

While driving to the Bay was sometimes eventful, sleeping at the Bay is whole other adventure. In the late ’70s, a friend and I pooled our money and bought a four-door sedan with reclining front seats we lovingly nicknamed “Rotten Egg.” We were unsuccessful in finding a house to rent, so one of us had a bright idea, “Let’s just sleep in the car at the Bay.”

That night, we parked next to the cliff above the beach. I lost the coin toss and got stuck with sleeping in the driver’s seat. A very hard rain, combined with my penchant for acting out my dreams, had me sitting up, grabbing the steering wheel and pushing hard on the brake pedal while screaming, “We’re going off the cliff!”