Maui Nō Ka ʻOi - May-June 2023 Preview

contents features

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THE MAGICAL NAI‘A OF LĀNA‘I

By Kristina Rau

Explore the nuances of spinner dolphin behavior in this photo essay shot off the Lāna‘i coast.

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26

TRAIL OF BAYS

By Lisa Schell

Photographs by Jason Moore

The Kapalua Coastal Trail gives access to a portion of West Maui’s ruggedly beautiful coastline.

ALL ABOARD!

By Carla Tracy

Trilogy Excursions celebrates 50 years of sailing and cinnamon buns in the waters off Maui.

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FENCING HALEAKALĀ

By Judy Edwards

The odyssey of fencing Haleakalā Crater, one of Maui’s greatest conservation accomplishments.

44

OCEANFRONT OASIS

By Heidi Pool

Photographs by Greg Hoxie

An outdated beachfront unit is transformed into an award-winning luxury condo in Kīhei.

JUNE 28 - JULY 2, 2023

JUNE 28 - JULY 2, 2023

JUNE 28 - JULY 2, 2023

5 Nights of Cinematic Diamonds at the Stardust Cinema

5 Nights of Cinematic Diamonds at the Stardust Cinema

8 of 13 Maui Premieres Revealed Above. Festival Tributes, Live Music, Kahiko Style Hula and Much More!

5 Nights of Cinematic Diamonds at the Stardust Cinema

8 of 13 Maui Premieres Revealed Above. Festival Tributes, Live Music, Kahiko Style Hula and Much More!

8 of 13 Maui Premieres Revealed Above. Festival Tributes, Live Music, Kahiko Style Hula and Much More!

STARDUST CINEMA

STARDUST CINEMA

MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

STARDUST CINEMA

MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

MAUIFILMFESTIVAL.COM

MAUIFILMFESTIVAL.COM

MAUIFILMFESTIVAL.COM

ON

Peer into the world of Lāna‘i’s spinner dolphins through the eyes of a marine naturalist.

Story page 22.

departments

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Contributors

Here are some of the talented folks who make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

14

Editor’s Letter

Stories and lessons from life on Maui by editor Chris Amundson.

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58

Talk Story

Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless.

Craving Maui

Discover what’s new and exciting in Maui’s dining scene.

68

Hanana Calendar of Events

Looking for something to do? Here’s what’s happening.

76 A Hui Hou

A fisherman reels in his line during a golden sunset.

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In Their Own Words

Photo by Jason Moore

CYNTHIA SWEENEY

Cynthia Sweeney is a writer, editor, and journalist who first moved to Hawai‘i in 1990. She has written for Hawaii Business Magazine, Hana Hou, Fodor’s Travel guidebooks and was a writer and assistant editor for Ke Ola Magazine . She also spent many years in Napa Valley, California, as editor of The Weekly Calistogan and as a reporter for North Bay Business Journal . When not writing about the people and places of Hawai‘i, she practices qigong, hones her stand-up comedy routine and dreams about traveling the world.

JUDY EDWARDS

Judy Edwards has worked in conservation, public lands advocacy, environmental education, and freelance writing in Hawai‘i since 1994. Many of her pieces are in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, on the Hawaiian Airlines website, in the anthology A Mile In Her Boots, and in Hana Hou.

She spent 17 years on Maui, then moved to Hawai‘i Island in 2011 to work with a nonprofit that supports national parks. Maui, however, remains no ka oi in her heart. Heralding the unsung heroes of conservation is her passion. The story of the fencing of Haleakalā National Park by dedicated, relentless, young conservationists is one that is close to her heart.

LISA SCHELL

Originally from Kailua, O‘ahu, Lisa Schell is a journalist with more than 30 years of experience in print and broadcast journalism and government communications. Her coverage of environmental, political, health and arts issues won her recognition from myriad outlets like the Associated Press and the Society of Professional Journalists. Today, Waikapūbased Schell is the managing editor of Paddlemoster.com, a web publication serving the paddle sports community. In her spare time, she can be found painting, surfing and paddle boarding.

MAY-JUNE 2023

VOL. 27, NO. 3

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is an international magazine dedicated to exploring the life and culture of Maui Nui. There’s a saying known in the islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

Publisher & Executive Editor

Chris Amundson

Associate Publisher

Angela Amundson

ED ITO RIAL

Group Photo Editor Amber Kissner

Photo Editor Jason Moore

Dining Editor Carla Tracy

Staff Writer Serene Gunnison

ADVERTISING SALES

Skyler Narvaez, Brooke Tadena, Marilyn Koponen

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Karlie Pape, Hernán Cortez, Edie Mann

SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Lea Kayton, Katie Evans, Janice Sudbeck

DIGITAL MEDIA

Alexa Springer

SUBSCRIBE

Call 1-844-808-6284, visit MauiMagazine.net or return a subscription card from this issue to subscribe: 1 year (6 issues) for $25 or 2 years (12 issues) for $44. Call or email subscriptions@mauimagazine.net for fundraising opportunities and bulk rates.

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CONTRIBUTE

Send queries, stories, photos and letters to the editor to editor@mauimagazine.net.

COPYRIGHT

All text, photography and artwork are copyright ©2023 by Flagship Publishing, Inc. For reprint permissions, email editor@mauimagazine.net.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine 220 Imi Kala St, Unit 204 PO Box 1450 Wailuku, HI 96793 (808) 242-8331

MauiMagazine.net

Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

Chris Amundson Publisher & Editor chris@mauimagazine.net

E mālama i nā holoholona lōhiu (Care for wildlife)

WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY is a business of long hours and patience. As legendary Maui-based whale photographer and co-founder of the Whale Trust, Flip Nicklin, told me over lunch recently, on his dozens of National Geographic photo shoots, his published photos often came from just one lucky day in a 30-day assignment – the benefit of showing up and being ready.

Also renowned and legendary is our magazine’s photo editor, Jason Moore, an accomplished underwater photographer and videographer, 100-ton U.S. Coast Guard Certified Captain, FAA certified drone pilot, SCUBA instructor and freediver.

Jason was freediving off the southern coast of Lanā‘i when he capture this issue's cover image of a pod of spinner dolphins on the ocean floor. A resident pod of 100 spinner dolphins to passed by Jason as he swam near the water's surface.

Jason clutched his camera, took a deep breath, descended 45 feet to the ocean floor and waited. Within minutes, nine dolphins broke away from the larger pod and swam down to investigate him. Dolphins are curious animals; they have a similar brain-to-body mass as humans. If dolphins could talk, Jason believes we might discover they know humans can't hold our breath very well. “So, when we do for a long time, they get curious," he said.

As Jason waited on the ocean floor, the pod made one low pass from left to right, then disappeared from his sight into the sapphire blue waters.

One dive, one pass, one photo. Like Flip, Jason showed up and was ready.

Here at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Jason reviews thousands of photos every month submitted by photographers from around the world who explore and document human-life and wildlife in Maui Nui. He looks for captivating and beautiful photos. But for wildlife, he also looks for shots made ethically and according to state and federal laws.

It is illegal, for example, to pursue or approach

dolphins and humpback whales without a research permit from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Flying a helicopter or airplane within 1,000 feet (or a drone within 300 feet) also is illegal.

So, when we get ready to publish a story like the spinner dolphin feature in this issue, we research our selected images to ensure our photographers created the photographs legally and ethically. For us, ethically means photographing animals in their natural course of life – no chasing, baiting or setting up artificial situations, which “cheat the art of photography,” Jason says.

With brains no larger than the mass of peanut, the honu (Hawaiian green sea turtle) deserves our respect, too. It is a federal offense to harm, harass or even touch a sea turtle. Though endangered, spend any time snorkeling many of Maui’s beaches and you’re bound to come across a honu.

Such was the case one night at my neighborhood beach, Waihe‘e Beach, when I emerged from the water following an after-work snorkel. Tuckered from a day of foraging on the coral, a green sea turtle had pulled itself up onto the beach for a nap. But instead of resting, two people where standing a few feet way shooting photos and videos with their cell phones.

The turtle was agitated and beginning a retreat to the water. I immediately walked over to the couple and told them that the honu is protected. According to the law, they need to stay at least 10 feet away. Please, let the tired creature rest, I told them.

The couple had just landed on Maui for their first trip here (a “vacation of a lifetime”). After a long flight, they were excited to be here and just wanted to put their feet in the water. Seeing a turtle was a bonus. They were grateful, truly, that I interceded; they took no offense.

We walked together on the beach and back to the parking lot, talking the whole way about their trip, their plans for the week, and about the importance of the land and animals to our island culture.

Maui is a beautiful place: paradise. Enjoy it, but don't consume it. Respect the land and the animals.

These lessons are deeply entwined with the island culture and shared wisdom. We at the magazine know when we share these lessons with visitors from around the world – in person and in photographs – little by little, the world becomes a better place.

Legacy Oceanfront Estate • Kahana Plantation Estates • Kapalua

Oceanfront Estate • Mahinahina

Lanikeha • Kaanapali Golf Estates

Oceanfront Residence • Kahana

Makawao Through the Ages

With a storied plantation and paniolo past, Makawao’s flavor is distinctly Upcountry.

By SERENE GUNNISON

If you were to travel back in time to the Makawao of the 1930s, you might notice parallels to the Makawao of today. Many of the building facades on Baldwin Avenue, Makawao’s main drag, remain unchanged – save for new paint jobs and updated signage. Families of wild chickens still strut through town. The former Yoshizu Fish Market, now Rodeo General Store, is still the go-to for Makawao residents to buy vegetables and other grocery essentials. And although Komoda Store is no longer a popular hangout for drinking coffee and talking story, it has grown into one of Maui's most beloved bakeries and remains a Makawao focal point.

Makawao began to emerge as Upcountry’s social and business center in the late 1800s, as ranching operations and sugar plantations opened in the area. By the 1930s, Makawao was a full-fledged township, home to billiard parlors, a movie theater, two service stations, general stores and a diverse population. Most non-Hawaiian residents during this time hailed from Portugal, Asia, the Philippines and Spain, making Makawao a model Hawaiian melting pot.

World War II brought a flood of troops to Makawao. Tam Chow Store – now Casanova Italian Restaurant – was converted into Crossroads USO, and provided recreation for the thousands of service members that lived and trained down the road at Camp Maui. Post-war,

Makawao became a desolate place. Job opportunities pulled people to Central Maui, but Makawao’s paniolo (cowboys) remained.

Surrounded by sprawling ranch lands, Makawao has long been known as a paniolo town. (For perspective, paniolos were wrangling cattle on the slopes of Haleakalā while most of the Midwest was still being settled – the first Upcountry ranch was established in 1845). But Makawao’s legacy as a cowboy hub was cemented in 1955, when Kaonoulu Ranch manager Harold “Oskie” Rice founded the Maui Roping Club and the esteemed Makawao Rodeo a year later. The Makawao Rodeo – now called the Makawao Stampede – still takes place every July and is the largest rodeo competition in the state. The rodeo is preceded by a parade through town, honoring the Upcountry community.

Makawao remained a sleepy paniolo town until the 1970s, when a renewed interest in rural living drew residents back to the area. Modern Makawao began to take shape as newcomers flocked to the town, opening restaurants and art galleries.

The Makawao of today blends new age with country spirit – an amalgamation that might typically mix like oil and water. But this combination gives Makawao its distinct flavor. After all, where else on Maui can you find old hitching posts alongside Chinese herb shops?

The Makawao Rodeo has been a tradition since 1956. Now called the Makawao Stampede, this year's event is June 30-July 2 at Oskie Rice Arena. The Makawao Parade is June 24. Above, The Maui Cookie Lady and The Dragon's Den are mainstay businesses on Baldwin Avenue.

Oskie Rice Event Center

Jason Moore

Jason Moore

Pollinator Paradise

By ASHLEY PROBST

Things are abuzz at Maui Honey Bee Sanctuary in Kanaio, a small community a few miles south of Ulupalakua This off-grid organic farm overlooks the Pacific Ocean and Maui’s lava fields from the western slopes of Haleakalā. It is on this expansive property that owner Erica Erickson lives and works as a beekeeper, educator and artisan.

“Maui – and Hawai‘i, in general – is an amazing place to keep bees. It’s one of the more ethical places to get honey from because they’re producing all the time,” said Erickson, who has been

Erica Erickson (all)

passionate about ethical and organic beekeeping methods since starting her Upcountry operation in 2015.

Another major part of Erickson’s mission is providing education about bees, especially for children. She hopes this will inspire them to become beekeepers themselves. “They are the future, so they’re gonna have the most impact on the world,” she said.

This education also extends to volunteers who work for the farm and, in exchange, receive housing and hands-on beekeeping experience.

For everyone working at Maui Honey Bee Sanctuary, a typical day includes opening the roadside farm stand; hosting educational tours; maintaining eight on-property beehives; and making artisanal beeswax products like lotions, lip balms, food wraps, and candles. Erickson also offers workshops to teach others how to make these all-natural goodies.

In addition to working on her own property, Erickson manages hives for other local farms on Maui and Hawai‘i Island. This has allowed her to curate a collection of varietal honeys like kiawe, lavender, macadamia nut, ‘ōhi‘a lehua, and more.

“The honey I produce on my property is called Liquid Gold honey. It’s essentially a wildflower honey, but it’s precious to me, so it’s like gold,” Erickson said. She also makes specialty infusions with the likes of homegrown Hawaiian chili pepper as well as cacao, which she calls honey fudge. Visitors are welcome to stop by for a free tasting.

All of Erickson’s creations are sold at the on-property farm stand as well as Da Beehive in Pā'ia, which she also owns and operates. Pop in and you may be lucky enough to chat with Erickson and meet her dog, Franklin, who serves as the company mascot – and visitors often point out that he is, serendipitously, the color of honey.

Maui Honey Bee Sanctuary in Kanaio is open 10:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m., and Da Beehive in Pā'ia is open 10:30 a.m.6:30 p.m. every day.

@mauihoneybees

Kapalua Bay | Original Oil | 18”x 30”

Upcountry Tryptic | Original Oil | 30”x78”

Turning into Art

By CYNTHIA SWEENEY

Victor Holmes and Sandra Bailey have been creating handturned works of art for more than 20 years out of their studio in Makawao. Inspired by the beauty and variety of Hawaiian trees, their story is rooted, one might say, in a love of nature.

It’s not often one finds husband and wife, both artists, and that work in the same medium. Bailey says when she first moved to Maui, she was awed by “all the beautiful wood,” and a desire was sparked to get into woodworking. Then, “When we we decided to get a lathe, it was like a dream come true.”

Holmes was the first to try his hand at turning wood, with Bailey helping by sharpening tools, and soon beginning to apprentice. After learning to turn traditional bowls, vases and calabashes, Bailey and Holmes ventured “off the beaten path,” creating wood sculptures that are sometimes abstract in nature, more art than utilitarian.

“Each piece of wood has its own essence and tells us what it wants to be,” Bailey said.

The duo finds inspiration in nature, on walks with their dogs in the mountains, and in the ocean; Bailey is also an amateur free diver, and Holmes is a surfer.

While each has their own separate style of wood-turning, they also collaborate on many pieces. Bailey will sometimes add color to Holmes’ works with resin inlays and paint, and they also incorporate natural elements like pine cones.

The wood they use for their artwork comes strictly from trees that have already been downed. “I call it tree-cycling,” Bailey said. “It’s wood that probably otherwise would have

gone for green waste.” Their studio is also made from recycled material.

Their work is displayed and sold at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, and they also see people by appointment at their studio. They frequently ship pieces around the world to people who visit from places as far away as Saudi Arabia and India.

“When people come here they are looking for something to take home, to remind them of Hawai‘i and their experience,” Bailey said. “It’s especially satisfying when a piece finds its person, when someone really has a connection to your work and enjoys it. That’s why we do what we do, to spread some beauty into the world, and a reminder of Maui.’ ”

Find their work at instagram.com/turningintoart.

Couple inspired by beauty of Maui wood

Dan Cesere

Jason Moore

DOUBLE R GIFTS

Conveniently located inside the Wharf Cinema Center, you’ll find unique gifts to take home from Maui. From handcrafted crochet items, ornaments, and island figurines – this is your one-stop-shop for kids and adults.

658 Front St, Lāhainā 808-667-6808

FOREVER H AND A MAUI

Owner Romela

Agbayani designs and sews these adorable Hawaiian dresses and accessories for 18-inch American Girl dolls, as well as matching dresses and accessories for girls of all ages.

658 Front St, Lāhainā foreverhandamaui.com

IG/FB @foreverhandamaui

808-661-1760

808-276-0960

808-276-3838

features original designs, artwork and photography on products such as caps, watches, leggings, T-shirts and accessories. We use all-natural materials and encourage adventure and exploration of the outdoors.

3494 Old Haleakalā Hwy, Makawao 808-633-2328 |

alphamaui808.com IG @alphamaui808

The

Nai‘a Magical Lāna‘i of

Peer into the world of Lāna‘i’s spinner dolphins through the eyes of a marine naturalist.

by KRISTINA RAU

Cody Roberts Jason Moore

The waters off Lāna'i are a preferred habitat for Hawaiian spinner dolphins, which travel in pods of up to 300 individuals. The dolphins are often seen playfully leaping alongside boats and showing off their distinctive stripes.

in the sapphire blue waters off southern Lāna‘i, my snorkel charter guests, my crew and I are keeping an eye out for telltale signs of the Hawaiian spinner dolphins while we search for a good snorkel spot. We scan for clusters of dark gray, shiny, triangular blades – their dorsal fins breaking the surface – and small splashes of white from playing individuals, not yet resting for the day after a long night of hunting in the deep pelagic waters, often miles offshore from the islands. The dolphins,

called nai‘a in Hawaiian, usually travel in pods, like big extended families. Sometimes you can encounter pods with up to 300 individuals, which is precisely what we’re hoping to see today.

A few hundred yards ahead, I see numerous little splashes. It’s them! We slow down and keep our distance of at least 150 feet per approach regulations and before we know it, some of them excitedly speed over to the boat for a good ‘ole surf session just below the bow. Some even seem to get so excited that they peel away from the main

Kristina Rau (above, opposite)

group so fast and jump fully out of the water to race up to the front of the boat. This is one of my favorite behaviors to witness. How can one not see the fun in a dolphin’s spirit when such exuberance is portrayed to catch a pressure wave provided by a boat?

As we slowly coast to a stop, we start to hear the many “pfoof!” breaths from members of the group. I love that sound. I explain to the guests that a lot of the group are in or will shortly be in a kind of “sleep mode” throughout the day.

Spinner dolphins don’t get to stop everything and zonk out on a fluffy underwater mattress like we do every night. They go into what is called unihemispheric sleep because they must think about every single breath from the time they are born to the time they perish, which can be about 20 to 30 years.

One hemisphere of the brain powers down while the other side stays wide awake so they can come up to the surface and breathe, watch out for their main predators (tiger and mako sharks), and stick with the rest of the group.

When spinner dolphins “sleep”, they often pair up, get into little groups, or if the entire

After a long night of hunting in offshore waters, spinner dolphins go into "unihemispheric sleep." One hemisphere of the brain sleeps while the other is alert in order to regulate breathing and watch for predators. Because of their unique rest system, federal law prohibits approaching spinner dolphins within 150 yards.

Kristina Rau

Jason Moore

Jason Moore (above)

Kristina Rau (above and bottom of page)

group is going to rest together, they pack close to one another and act like one giant animal. They all come up to the surface together as one and all descend together towards the reef or sand and slowly swim over it, resting. We watch and listen, enjoying the sounds of their fast breaths, trying to guess where they’ll come up next after a few minutes underwater.

During this time, we can see that some of the dolphins are not interested in sleeping but rather playing and wrestling with

each other. Others are jumping and even doing what gave them their name, spinning! Adults and calves both do it for many reasons. They spin to communicate, dislodge parasites and dead skin and maybe get a look around.

They can get up to seven rotations in one jump. While adult spinner dolphins are notably smaller than other dolphin species found in Hawaiian waters like the bottlenose (five to seven feet long versus 12 feet long, respectively) it’s still mesmerizing to

see the twister of water surround and jet away from a dolphin that is spinning.

One of the dolphins is a calf that jumps very high and is not spinning. It is wiggling in midair and landing on one side, one jump after another. After a couple jumps at different angles, we can all see that the little dolphin is trying to remove a parasite, and it’s a big one, a remora fish. The little dolphin tries over and over to jump as high as it can and orient its body so it lands directly on the fish to dislodge it. The remora, on

the other hand, wants to stay stuck on the dolphin because it gets a free ride by doing so and therefore gets to eat the scraps of the dolphin’s meals. After 10 to 15 jumps, the calf runs out of steam, but it is successful in getting rid of the pesky remora. After our observation, we move on to the snorkel spot.

As the sun goes down, well after I have put the boat away for the day, the spinners move away from the shallow waters close to the cliffs of Lāna‘i and into deeper water to hunt for squid, small schooling fish like

lanternfish and shrimp during the night. They don’t have to dive very deep because their prey comes up from the depths in what is called a diel vertical migration. This is the daily, synchronized movement of marine animals between the deep layers of the open ocean and the surface.

The dolphins hunt all night and as the sun rises, they make their way back towards the shoreline so they can rest, socialize and get ready for the next night’s hunting in the sapphire blue waters off Lāna‘i.

A spinner dolphin leaps off the coast of southern Lāna'i in an attempt to rid itself of a pesky hitchhiker: a parasitic remora fish. A small pod of dolphins cluster together in shallow sandy waters, likely during a period of "unihemispheric sleep." During sleep, the pod acts as one, rising and descending through the water together.

Kristina Rau Jason Moore