We celebrate the people & places that make our island home nō ka ‘oi
Sink Your Toes into 9 of Maui’s Best Beaches
ISLAND KITCHEN Chef Ryan Cruz’s Culinary Creations from Hotel Wailea +
22
LĀHAINĀ BANYAN TREE
Contributor Craig Hewitt shares his precious memory of the Lāhainā Banyan Tree. Learn how you can be published.
24 MAUI’S BEST BEACHES
Maui is known for its incredible beaches, from sugary shores to black sands and prized snorkeling spots to surf-ready waves.
2025 SHAKA LIST
With the new year upon us, we celebrate the people, places and things that make Maui “nō ka ʻoi” (the best).
Todd Kawasaki
Daniel Sullivan
SAVOR THE ISLAND, ONE CULINARY TREASURE AT A TIME
Indulge in a gourmet three-course meal crafted by the chefs at The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua. Enjoy the UH Maui Culinary Arts Reception with five pūpū stations, wine, cocktails and beer. Celebrate the winners of 40+ awards, including the prestigious Chef of the Year and honors in sustainability and agriculture. Support Maui’s future culinary stars–proceeds benefit the UH Maui Culinary Arts Program.
contents departments
POSTMASTER:
ON THE COVER Soft, salty waves reach Kāʻanapali Beach at sunset, one of Maui’s stunning and serene beaches along its 120-mile coastline. Story begins on page 24.
by Andrew
14 EDITOR’S LETTER
Stories and lessons from life on Maui by Publisher and Editor Chris Amundson.
16 TALK STORY
Tales of the island fresh off the coconut wireless.
44
ISLAND KITCHEN
Chef Ryan Cruz crafts innovative dishes at The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea.
48 DINING GUIDE
Everything you need to know about dining on Maui, from casual bites to luxury experiences.
58 A HUI HOU
Photo contest winner Jenni Matthews captures Kalama Park in Kīhei at dusk.
60 IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Meet Kainoa Pestana, the conservation manager at Puʻu Kukui Watershed.
Photo
Shoemaker
Chris Amundson
VOL. 29, NO. 1 | 2025
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is an internationally-distributed magazine dedicated to exploring the life and culture of Maui Nui. There’s a saying known in the islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Chris Amundson
Angela Amundson
Lauren Warring
Victoria Finlayson
Jennifer Stevens, Mark Del Rosario
Ariella Nardizzi
Erik Makić Pōmaika‘i Krueger
Chris Amundson
Liesl Amundson, Shiela Camay, Anne Canto
Mona de Crinis, Serene Gunnison, Craig Hewitt, Todd Kawaski, Jenni Matthews, Travis Morrin, Ron Niebrugge, Rachel Olsson, Andrew Shoemaker, Daniel Sullivan, Drew Sulock, Todd A. Vines
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West Maui Oceanfront Estate • Mahinahina
What Makes Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi?
THERE’S A BELOVED SAYING in
the Hawaiian Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi. These words are more than a prideful sentiment that Maui is the best – they reflect the deep care and reverence we have for this sacred land. It’s in the way the ocean gently kisses the shores of our 120-mile coastline and in the resilient spirit of our community as we rally to uplift our ‘ohana who lost their homes, businesses and loved ones in the Lāhainā fires.
In this issue, we’re proud to share the “2025 Shaka List” – a collection of just a few of the few da kine that make this island nō ka ‘oi Maui, like this magazine, is a story of resilience, beauty and community, showing unshaken grace through adversity.
This year also brought an exciting new neighbor to our skies: the ‘alalā, the native Hawaiian crow. A pilot program reintroduced this intelligent bird to the leeward slopes of Haleakalā in December. After more than two decades of absence in the wild, conservationists find hope in these sleek black birds as they take flight, playing a role in healing the island’s ecosystem. Healing comes in many forms, and at the Royal Lahaina Resort in Kā‘anapali, it takes the shape of music. The resort hosts nightly musical gatherings featuring local artists under the sprawling branches of a century-old rubber tree – a nod to its cousin, the Lāhainā banyan tree.
The spirit of community in West Maui remains unshaken, and The Branches is just one example of what happens when people come together not just to rebuild, but to grow something beautiful from the ashes.
Just five miles south stands the mighty banyan tree in Lāhainā town. The largest banyan in the country was engulfed in flames during the 2023 fire. Now, it shows signs of growth and restoration. In a touching personal essay, contributor Craig Hewitt reflects on a resilient future: “Only God can make a banyan tree,” he writes, “but sometimes he calls on us to nurture it.”
No issue about Maui would be complete without honoring the island’s unparalleled beauty, including its 60 named beaches and countless hidden stretches of sand. From Sugar Beach in Kīhei to Nāpili Beach in Kapalua, our annual “Best Beaches” feature highlights everything from world-famous sunbathing spots to secluded local fish haunts.
And in the spirit of celebration, we’re also thrilled to share our curated Dining Guide featuring some of the island’s best establishments. From shave ice stands to mom-andpop diners and sushi bars, many are past ‘Aipono Award winners.
As we gear up for this year’s ‘Aipono Awards Gala at The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua Ballroom, we can’t wait to peruse your nominations. On April 26, we’ll be celebrating the very best of Maui’s dining scene – and we hope to see you there!
A hui hou – see you soon.
With
Aloha, Chris Amundson Publisher & Editor chris@mauimagazine.net
of the Return
‘Alalā
Five surviving native Hawaiian crows released on Maui
by Ariella Nardizzi
San Diego Zoo Wildlife Alliance
Kīpahulu Forest Reserve is now home to five ʻalalā in hopes to restore the species.
Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project
NO ROADS OR TRAILS lead into the boggy rainforests of the Kīpahulu Forest Reserve on the leeward slopes of Haleakalā. Yet, it is here that five ʻalalā – the native Hawaiian crows that went extinct in the wild in 2002 – now reside. Three male and two female juvenile birds were released on Dec. 4 in a historic conservation effort to restore the species to its natural habitat.
These jet-black corvids once graced Hawaiʻi Island’s skies, revered as ‘aumākua (family guardians). They are distinctive for their sleek black feathers, one-foot-long wingspans, and haunting, human-like cries. Fossilized remains of a similar species have also been found on East Maui. By 1976, habitat loss, disease and overpredation brought their population to just 76. The last wild pair was spotted in South Kona, Hawaiʻi Island, in 2002 – the year the ʻalalā were declared extinct in the wild.
Since then, the San Diego Zoo Wildlife Alliance has bred over 115 ʻalalā in captivity. In 2016, conservationists reintroduced 29 of these birds to Hawaiʻi Island. However, continued habitat loss, avian diseases carried by introduced mosquitoes, and predation by feral cats, mongooses and ʻio (Hawaiian hawks) caused high mortality rates. By 2020, the remaining birds were returned to captivity at the Keauhou and Maui Bird Conservation Centers.
“ʻAlalā have been in captivity for way too long. We can’t keep bringing birds into captivity without an exit plan,” said Dr. Hanna Mounce, manager of the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project (MFBRP). “We need to get these birds back onto the landscape where they belong.”
In fall 2024, hope was renewed. Five captive-bred ʻalalā were transported by helicopter to a temporary field aviary on Haleakalā in early October. Before their release, members of Nā Hanona Kūlike ʻO Piʻilani offered a pule (prayer) to honor the birds.
“The manu [birds] don’t have voices to speak for themselves,” Kumu Kaponoʻai Molitau said. “The intentionality of our work was to uplift their voices in this ancestral landscape. It’s a huge kuleana [responsibility] to ensure our decisions benefit not only the natural environment but also those without voices, like our manu people.”
Young birds were selected for the release because they are less territorial than adults, increasing the likelihood of successful pair bonding, foraging and group cohesion. After adapting for three to four weeks under close supervision, the birds were released into Maui’s refuge.
Kīpahulu Forest Reserve was chosen for its isolation and abundance of native vegetation – lessons learned from the 2016 Hawaiʻi Island initiative. Each bird is outfitted with a GPS transmitter attached to a cloth harness worn like a backpack, allowing conservationists to track their movements.
The ʻalalā play a vital role in forest health by dispersing seeds of over 30 native plant species, effectively acting as “forest restoration engineers.” “We don’t have other native species operating like
larger fruit-eating birds,” Mounce said. “The ʻalalā will make a big difference for the health of Hawaiian forests.”
This Maui release is considered experimental, as the island lacks ʻio (Hawaiian hawk) predators, making it a safer environment for the ʻalalā. Partners including the DLNR Division of Forestry and Wildlife, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and The Nature Conservancy are collaborating on breeding and rehabilitation efforts.
“There are still big questions about whether Maui has enough habitat to support wild corvids,” Mounce said. “This project will help determine how Maui fits into the broader recovery of the ʻalalā.”
If the birds successfully reproduce, their offspring may eventually move to the Big Island. Mounce believes that a population reintroduced to the wild – especially one raised in part by wild-born birds – will develop better strategies for evading predators like the ʻio.
If effective, the once-silenced calls of the ʻalalā will echo through Hawaiʻi’s forests again, a testament to the resilience and restoration of the islands.
Members of the Nā Hanona Kūlike ʻO Piʻilani offered a pule, a prayer, to honor the ʻalalā before they were released on the slopes of Haleakalā.
Hawai‘i DLNR
Cool Cat Cafe Opens in Kīhei
FOR TWO DECADES, Cool Cat Cafe was an iconic Lāhainā Front Street restaurant. The old-time, 1950s diner at the Wharf Cinema Center was known for its award-winning hamburgers and elevated view of Lāhainā’s famous banyan tree.
What’s ‘Old’ is New Again for the Former Front Street Eatery
by TODD A. VINES
The wildfires of August 2023 claimed the restaurant and changed the face of Front Street forever, but a new chapter in the Cool Cat Cafe story is being written in Kīhei. Founder Sean Corpuel reopened the cafe in South Maui this past June, barely 10 months after the fires.
“I kept in close contact with the team from the day after the fire,” Corpuel said. “I let them determine the pace. Within a few months, they told me they were ready to build something back. From that point, I wanted to reopen as quickly as possible.”
The new restaurant at Kukui Mall, most recently occupied by Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, has been fully updated and is appropriately awash in red and chrome – and nostalgia. Parking is considerably easier at the new locale. There’s more
seating, a larger game room and space for private parties.
It’s also, well, notably cooler. The space is fully air-conditioned – a shift from the mostly open-air westside spot. Toward the rear of the restaurant, a large unadorned interior wall awaits a mural, likely a tribute to the cafe’s westside roots.
“It’ll be a nice vibe, a nod to our past,” said Tiffany Quilty, the restaurant group’s operations manager. “It’s a lot of pressure to reopen in a new space and keep the bar as high as we can. Even though we were established on Maui, we’re the new kid in Kīhei. But there’s lots of opportunity to connect with a new community.”
Cool Cat Cafe first opened on Maui in 2003. Corpuel and his father, Steve, owned a pair of successful ’50s-style diners in California and longed to bring the concept to the islands. At no point did Sean consider the loss of the Lāhainā restaurant the final chapter.
“We built something amazing. I couldn’t let it end like that,” he said.
Chris Amundson
In Kīhei, those familiar with the prior location will recognize plenty: photos of ’50s-era icons on the walls, bar seating at the shake counter and live music by West Maui musicians.
Many of the faces are familiar, too. Nearly half of the roughly 100-person team previously worked at the westside Cool Cat Cafe or Captain Jack’s Island Grill, a sister restaurant and Wharf Cinema Center neighbor also lost in the fires. A new Captain Jack’s recently opened at Sands of Kahana Resort with breakfast, lunch and dinner menus.
“We can replace equipment, buildings and product, but you can’t replace 21 years of culture and experience,” Corpuel said. “You can’t replace your ʻohana.”
The menu remains largely unchanged, with a few additions like a Philly cheesesteak, baja fish tacos and fish and chips, popular dishes formerly served at Captain Jack’s. The lineup of hand-pressed, 6.5-ounce Angus beef burgers is back, offered in more than a dozen ways, including favorites like the Don Ho with pineapple,
Cool Cat Cafe reopened in Kīhei with the same ’50s diner nostalgia, cuisine and culture of the Front Street eatery –voted “Best Burger” by locals and guests for its hand-pressed, 6.5-ounce Angus beef burgers crafted 14 different ways.
bacon, jack cheese and homemade sweet Hawaiian sauce, and The Duke with bacon, cheese, onion rings and barbecue sauce.
The accolades are back, too. Cool Cat Cafe once again took gold as “Best Burger” in the 2023 ʻAipono Awards, Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine’s annual readers’ choice competition. It’s an honor the restaurant has earned multiple times through the years.
“It makes all the hard work worth it,” Corpuel said. “My dad’s favorite thing to hear is, ‘That’s the best burger I’ve ever had.’ Being voted Best Burger by the readers is a hundred times better.”
In addition to the return of Captain Jack’s Island Grill, there’s talk about reintroducing Cool Cat on the west side. A “Cool Cat Express” is in the works, though the timeline and exact location remain undetermined.
“We’re so grateful to have had the opportunity to get both Cool Cat and Captain Jack’s up and running again,” Corpuel said. “We love serving great food, and we’re stoked to be able to put our work ʻohana back together. We’re just happy to be here.”
Sean Corpuel opened Cool Cat Cafe in 2003, bringing a ’50s-style diner to Front Street and now Kīhei.
Rachel Olsson (all)
Rooted in Community
The Branches honors Hawaiian mele traditions
by Ariella Nardizzi
AS THE GLOWING SUN dips into the ocean in Kāʻanapali, hanging basket lights illuminate the canopy of the centuryold rubber tree at the heart of Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows. The Ficus elastica, known as “The Branches,” stretches its limbs wide, its tangled gnarled roots growing 64 feet upward to support a 124-foot-wide ceiling of sweeping branches and leaves.
Sheltered beneath the towering tree each night, locals and guests gather for mele (song) to keep beloved Lāhainā traditions alive. The salty night air fills with melodic tunes, an angelic voice accompanying the strum of an acoustic guitar. Guests hum, sway and sing together, their voices becoming one under the canopy.
One of Maui’s first resorts, Royal Lahaina launched The Branches on Nov. 1, 2024, in recognition of the more than 100 restaurants lost in the devastating Lāhainā wildfire. This nightly gathering features live music from local artists, decadent meat and cheese charcuterie platters, s’mores grazing boards and libations.
The evening’s musical celebrations are rooted beneath the rubber tree – a cousin of the resilient Lāhainā Banyan. In the quiet moments between songs, the gentle rustling of leaves fills the air, whispering stories, songs and the enduring spirit of Lāhainā deeply rooted in West Maui.
“As the community rebuilds from a devastating loss, we want to provide a space where local artisans can be celebrated and supported,” said Nicholas Kuhns, general manager of Royal Lahaina.
Amidst chaise loungers and the Roots & Barrel bar trailer, the sturdy ʻOhana Benches – crafted from monkeypod wood – stand as a tribute to resilience. Made by resort employees in honor of the one-year anniversary of the fires, the benches commemorate the 600 displaced ʻohana who sought refuge at the resort.
Royal Lahaina reopened in August after a
10-month public closure to provide housing for families who lost their homes in the fire.
Each night from 6 to 9 p.m., various local artists perform at the heart of the resort’s 27-acre waterfront property. The event debuted with a mesmerizing performance by beloved Hawaiian rockstar Tavana, who brought soulful island-inspired rock and blues to The Branches.
“One of the ways of perpetuating our culture is through our mele,” said Makalapua Kanuha, cultural advisor for Royal Lahaina. “When we celebrate music, we celebrate the language of our kūpuna [elders] and the moʻolelo [stories] of our ancestors.”
The musical gathering is free to the community, and every third Friday of the month features a popular artist. Attendance ranges from a few dozen to 200 guests, all coming together to revel in the music and support young talent.
As the island rebuilds, The Branches honors the past while planting new seeds of growth, healing and restoration for the future. Much like the Ficus elastica, whose sprawling branches and steadfast roots have grown for a century, Lāhainā too remains rooted in community as mele tradition continues to thrive.
Chris Amundson
Every night, locals and guests gather for mele at Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows.
only god can make a
BANYAN TREE
SEPTEMBER 11, 2018. I remember that day like it was yesterday. My wife and I combed the streets of Lāhainā on a beautiful late summer day. The steady, rhythmic ebb and flow of the waves could be heard through the din of happy tourists as they scurried from shop to shop. A calm ocean breeze gently kissed my skin. The sweet saline air drifted past my nostrils. I closed my eyes, took a deep breath, and let it fill my lungs. At that moment, I realized why so many people have come to love Maui. Ironically, we were not even supposed to be there. My wife, six months pregnant, originally wanted to go to Portugal for our “baby moon,” that ceremonial last gasp before the sobering reality of parenthood truly sunk in. However, her doctor urged
story by Craig Hewitt | photograph by Todd Kawasaki
her to reconsider. She felt that if there were any complications, it would be more prudent to remain on U.S. soil. She reassured us that there were plenty of beautiful places to visit in America, and that it was better to be safe than sorry. Neither of us had been to Hawai‘i and we had the points to fly for free, but as adventurous globe trotters we succumbed to the misconception that Hawai‘i was “too touristy” and “too commercialized.” Fortunately, we could not have been more wrong. For Maui exceeded our expectations.
Like most women at this stage of their pregnancy, my wife shimmered, and Maui, with all its vibrance and verdant glory, made her even more beautiful. We continued our leisurely stroll through Lāhainā, and then
Before the 2023 fires, the Lāhainā Banyan Tree stretched across a city block. Though partially burned, the tree grows anew, a sign of restoration of Maui and its people.
we saw it: the great banyan tree. Of course, I read about the tree’s origins, and as a history buff, I was absolutely fascinated by the story of this 150-year-old, living time capsule. A gift from Indian missionaries to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the first Protestant mission to Maui, William Owen Smith, then local sheriff of Lāhainā, planted the tree as a mere sapling on April 24, 1873. The tree is literally rooted in Hawaiian lore and stands as the largest banyan tree in the United States.
I was awestruck by this sprawling giant the moment I saw it. Covering an acre and standing over 60 feet high, it reminded me of something out of a fantasy novel, as if this iconic creature had sprouted out of the imagination of J.R.R. Tolkien. It seemed so alien yet so welcoming. Like a benevolent kraken, its writhing tentacles reached for the heavens and hugged the earth below, a conduit to both worlds.
As I walked beneath its boughs, I marveled at the symphony of shadow and sunlight the great tree’s canopy created. Here, light and dark stood not in opposition; they were joined in a scintillating dance. The chitter and chatter of birds echoed among the leaves. Moss hung from the branches like the beards of old wisemen, who silently whispered nature’s grand design to those humbly seated on the benches below. What lessons would we learn if only we had the courage to open our hearts and listen?
After lingering for an hour or so, my wife and I finally left Banyan Tree Park, but the memory never subsided. I met a local artist on our way out and purchased a tiki sculpture he had carved from monkey pod wood. He explained the symbolism of the tiny totem I held in my hand, how its large almond-shaped eyes represented windows into the afterlife. He told me they were called kiʻi in Hawaiian culture, and that they represented our connection with nature and with heaven and earth. The kiʻi would bring us good fortune and wisdom he con-
tinued, so I asked him if he would carve the date on the back since my wife and I would soon be welcoming our newborn son. He smiled graciously and quickly chiseled on the back of the sculpture the words, “Baby Moon Sept 11, 18.” I thanked him, he congratulated us, and then we parted ways.
I began to see my little kiʻi in an entirely new light when tragedy struck Maui in August 2023. Our hearts sunk when we learned how wildfires ravaged the island, particularly in Lāhainā. The loss of human life and property was devastating enough, but Maui’s natural wonders fell victim, too. Not even the mighty banyan tree was spared. Feeling obligated, my wife and I donated to the recovery efforts, and our hearts ached for those whose lives were irreparably changed. Would the banyan tree survive? Would Maui ever be the same?
I began to follow the slow but steady progress and dreamed about one day returning to that magnificent island, this time with my son. They say time heals all wounds but how long would the scars remain? Fortunately, I found cause for optimism. Thanks to the dedication of arborists and volunteers, Maui, and the great banyan tree, were rising from the ashes like a real-life phoenix. It reminded me of the words of Walt Whitman who once wrote, “The smallest sprout shows there is really no death, and if ever there was it led forward life, and does not wait at the end to arrest it, and ceas’d the moment life appear’d.”
Nature, and by extension, humanity, is far more resilient than we ever give it credit. We tend to think that fragility and perseverance lie on different ends of the spectrum, but often the most delicate blossom thrives in the face of adversity.
I no longer doubt Maui will return stronger and more beautiful than ever. I know because nature will always find its way, and so will the people that remain true to it. Only God can make a banyan tree, but sometimes he calls on us to nurture it.
SEND YOUR short stories about Maui to editor@mauimagazine.net.
