Australia July-August 2012
I N D O O R
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The
Greenhouse & Water Issue www.maximumyield.com
2012
Indoor gardenING expo SAN FRANCISCO CALIFORNIA July 21-22
LONG BEACH CALIFORNIA november 3-4
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Maximum Yield |  July/August 2012
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CONTENTS July/August 2012
FEATURES 36
42 30
Build it Right: Determining Greenhouse Design by Climate
18
The Top Five Mistakes Made by Advanced Growers by Shane Hutto
20
$1.2 Million Under Glass: Is it Worth the Expense? by Raquel Neofit
24
Companion Planting in Hydroponics by Matt LeBannister
30
DEPARTMENTS
by Dr. Lynette Morgan
36
Tap Water and its Impact on Hydro Products by Casey Jones Fraser
42
Reverse Osmosis: How to Get the Most out of Your RO System by Jennifer Casey
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From the Editor
46
Growers Know
6
Letters to the Editor
48
You Tell Us
8
MaximumYield.com
50
Distributors
10
Simon Says
54
Do You Know?
12
MAX Facts
54
Coming up in next issuew
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Product Spotlight
Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
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FROM THE EDITOR | Jessica Raymond We are thrilled to bring you our Greenhouse and Water Issue, which is packed with the latest tips and trends to give you the biggest and healthiest yields no matter the size of your greenhouse or grow space. From determining tap water’s impact on hydro products to detailing the top five mistakes made by advanced growers and introducing companion planting in your hydroponic garden, this magazine covers it all. Industry experts Dr. Lynette Morgan and Jennifer Casey also share, respectively, their tips on designing your greenhouse by climate and how to get the most out of your reverse osmosis system. So, whether you grow for passion, profit, food, fun or all four, I know you will enjoy this issue. Drop us a line and let us know how your crops fare or how we can help get your next crop off to a good start.
Countdown to San Francisco
For even more gardening tips and tricks, plan a trip to California and join us for our world-class San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo on July 22, 2012. Maximum Yield’s 9th annual San Francisco Expo is moving to a new venue with over 400 exhibits (twice the size of past year shows). Visit indoorgardenexpo.com to see the full line-up of exhibitors and events, or flip to page 52 for full details.
Jessica Raymond, Editor editor@maximumyield.com
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR A Local Point of View
Subscription Confliction
I appreciate that Maximum Yield encourages the support of local business with the “Talking Shop” feature. More often than not, these are family-owned and -operated shops and they need more consumer support than they can afford to entice with expensive advertising. You provide them with the opportunity to efficiently introduce themselves to the market. The “At a Glance” sidebar is quite effective as well, providing contact information and directing readers to web stores (if applicable). Keep it up, Peter Cowan
I just noticed that under the subscriptions tab on your website it says that Maximum Yield is a free magazine, but on the subscription form it says it’s $65 for the international editions. Just curious which one it is. Jeff Jones
More and Better
It’s just a suggestion, but I’d like to see more technology-driven articles. It seems like you have some interesting stuff on plant DNA, propagation, tissue and things of that nature, but I would like to see more equipment reviews and progressive technology coverage— new ways of doing things rather than the same old stuff. Regards, Victor Schroyer This issue of Maximum Yield contains some fresh tips and new tricks for growing green, including tap water’s impact on hydro products, designing a greenhouse for various climates and mistakes made by advanced growers. And make sure to check out Product Spotlight, featuring some of the hottest new items available now at hydroponic shops across Australia and New Zealand. Australi
Maximum Yield is available for free at indoor gardening shops across Australia and New Zealand. Simply flip to the back of any issue for a list of retailers near you. Maximum Yield is also available for free on our website, maximumyield.com Personal subscriptions are just one more way we’re ensuring you don’t miss an issue of your favourite growing mag. Subscribing to Maximum Yield guarantees you get six copies a year; the $65 is the cost for shipping. We’re excited to announce we’re also now offering free digital subscriptions to all editions of Maximum Yield. Subscribe today at maximumyield.com/digital-subscription
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Every month we give away a special issue of Maximum Yield to one lucky eNews subscriber. If you aren’t subscribed, you can’t participate. Get involved, share your thoughts and participate in discussions monthly and you could win. Sign up today at maximumyield.com/enewssignup so you can start winning! Maximum Yield Team
Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.
a May-Jun
e 2012
Happy Customer
I think the magazine is great for growers young and old. It provides very useful information for growers. Can’t wait until the next magazine comes out! Regards, Mark Dawson
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Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
We want to hear from you! Maximum Yield Publications Inc. Snail-mail: 2339 Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 E-mail: editor@maximumyield.com Twitter: twitter.com/max_yield Facebook: www.facebook.com/MaximumYield
COMING UP ON THE WEB Double Your Fun—“Grow Like a Pro” Expo Tour Hitting San Francisco and Long Beach, California
The Grow Like a Pro Indoor Gardening Expo is coming to San Francisco, California July 22 followed by Long Beach, California November 4. You won’t want to miss these two world-class events. Head to indoorgardenexpo.com for complete event details and start planning your vacation to California today.
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LIKTOUR
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Maximum Yield’s resident experts are available and ready to answer your modern gardening questions. Email editor@maximumyield.com or fill out the “Ask the Experts” question form on maximumyield.com
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Connect with Maximum Yield
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contributors Casey Jones Fraser owns Garden
Grove Organics, in Northern Kentucky/ Greater Cincinnati. He has a degree in communications and electronic media. He believes that indoor gardeners can achieve the highest quality crops and maximum yields when proper science is applied. Since 1998, Casey has been testing various nutrients and supplements in search of outstanding harvests.
Matt LeBannister developed a
green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.
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Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
VOLUME 10 – NUMBER 2 July/August 2012 PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092 PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson editorial Editor-in-Chief Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com Assistant Editor Jessica Skelton jskelton@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 DIRECTOR OF SALES - Raymond Henderson raymond@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com Hayley Jesson - Hayley@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Jennifer Duong - jennifer@maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Liz Johnston - liz@maximumyield.com Denise Higginson - denise@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING Tracy Greeno - tracy@maximumyield.com Tara Campbell - Tara@maximumyield.com
AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Dome Garden Supply Futchatec Growth Technology Holland Forge House N’ Garden Hydraspher UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Future Harvest Development Europe Nutriculture UK Direct Garden Supplies Dutch Pro Maxigro Hydrogarden CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS General Hydroponics Humboldt Wholesale Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds
Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.
Jennifer Casey loves her two dogs,
Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information.
her husband, the amazing garden he grows and living in the country—in that order. Crafting, reading and cooking from the garden are her favorite ways to spend her time.
Raquel Neofit is a features editor
Shane Hutto is a technical advisor
for Nutrifield’s online garden problem solver and a freelance writer for the hydroponics and travel industries. She shares Nutrifield’s passion for quality education and sound advice. She is encouraged by Nutrifield’s dedication to hydroponic research and development, and the belief that hydro is the way of the future.
at Grodan Inc. He earned a bachelor’s degree in horticulture at Oklahoma State University and received a research assistantship for his master’s degree. During his graduate studies he researched production and extraction of surface waxes on horticultural commodities. His passion for growing is complimented by his experience in many types of controlled environment operations and design.
SIMON SAYS
Hey, Are organics, such as guanos, suitable for use in hydroponics? Is guano enough for a full schedule from the veg to bloom stage?
The awkward partnership of organics and hydroponics intersects once again! There is a lot of debate about using organics in hydroponics. While it is feasible in theory, it is very difficult to make it function in the real world. In the successes I have seen, they are generally based on compost-amended soilless mixes—if they are water systems, the crops are low-nutrient-requiring plants, such as lettuce and some herbs. Most of the problems associated with organics and hydroponics are related to the level of soluble nutrients. Nitrogen and calcium availability would be two of the biggest problems. Organic products—unless digested through enzymatic action, fermentation or chemical extraction—are generally only partially soluble, if at all. Powdered guanos would be mostly insoluble, although they could be suspended in solution if agitated. However, just because something is suspended doesn’t mean that plants will be able to access it. In most cases the best way to digest organic material is through microbial action. In hydroponic systems, there would be very low levels of microbial action and it’s unlikely that you could get enough activity to break down the guanos into usable forms. There are a range of guanos available on the market. Most are from bats and birds and they all have various nutritional ranges due to the variety of food sources consumed by the animals. Guanos can be a great way to get a high-power organic option into your garden and nutritionally you are right that guanos could be a very strong nutrient foundation. Outdoors, in true soils, where guanos can break down over a season in the presence of vast amounts and diversity of microbes, it’s possible they could provide a stand-alone nutrient for your garden. Indoors, guanos will
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Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
require a bit more preparation in order to give the results you want. If you are keen to use guanos, the best idea would be to choose a soilless mix with a high level of biological activity. Add as many microbes as possible with inputs like worm castings, weekly doses of an aerated compost tea and microbial stimulants like kelp and humic acid. Mix the guanos into your potting mix prior to planting and let the microbes feed themselves, and in turn, your medium and plants. The organic material would break down over a few months and provide a natural slow release nutrient supply for your plants. To fill the gaps and ensure the best crop possible, I would consider having a fermented liquid organic ready, just in case the release curve doesn’t keep up with your plants. Keep thinking organically and as always I recommend experimenting—every situation is different and you won’t know unless you try. MY
Do you have a question for one of our resident experts? Send it to editor@maximumyield.com or fill out the form on maximumyield.com and your answer might be printed in an upcoming issue.
MAX FACTS
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Bees are the Key A new study reports approximately 30% of our diet is produced as a result of the activity of pollinators like bees. The study also investigated the role that Australia’s native bees could play in increasing the yield and quality of vegetable seeds, and the possibility of increasing the populations of native bees in cases where honeybees were providing suboptimal pollination. “Pollination is particularly important for those vegetables that produce a seed like watermelons, as well as in the seed-production process,” said Andrew White, an AUSVEG spokesperson. “Promoting the positive benefits of native bees when there is suboptimal pollination from honeybees may be significant and this study provided evidence of some good results when crops were exposed to native bee populations in addition to honeybees.” (Source: hydroponics.com.au)
MAXFACTS hydroponic news, tips and trivia
“Stacking Green” Design Comes to Saigon A team of architects working in Saigon—the most densely populated city in the world—has unveiled a new house design they call “Stacking Green.” The house, constructed on a plot that is a mere 3.66 m wide by 18.29 m deep, uses traditional Saigon courtyard house design, which allows for cross breezes to flow throughout the space and for plants to provide shade, both of which dramatically curtail energy use. The front and rear of the dwelling are composed entirely of cantilevered concrete planters placed at slightly different heights for contrast and to accommodate the height of the plants they contain, which are watered using an integrated irrigation system. (Source: puregreenmag.com)
High on Life
A recent article in The Atlantic magazine has suggested that the rich, earthy smell of compost might be so appealing to gardeners because it contains microorganisms that can make you happy. The microorganisms—M. vaccae—found in compost have been shown to boost levels of serotonin and norepinephrine in the systems of both humans and mice, and apparently work in the same way as antidepressant pills. (Source: theatlantic.com)
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MAX FACTS PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
“Flowering Switch” Discovered Following a five-year study, a team of researchers led by Associate Professor Yu Hao from the Department of Biological Sciences at the National University of Singapore has identified the specific protein that triggers the process of flowering in plants. After scanning around three million samples using a process called yeast two-hybrid screening, the researchers were finally able to identify a molecule they called FTIP1. Professor Yu and his team are currently working on new studies that indicate that a group of FTIP1-like proteins are involved in a whole range of other plant developmental processes. (Source: sciencedaily.com)
Tomatoes Branch Out Scientists working at the Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory have discovered that tomato plant yields can be increased by manipulating a molecular timer—or, maturation clock—that signals plants to create more branches and, ultimately, more fruit. The trick is to learn how to manipulate the clock just enough to cause a modest increase in branching, said team leader CSHL assistant professor Zach Lippman, who added that uncontrolled branching would result in plants “not having the resources to set…flowers into fruits.” (Source: sciencedaily.com)
Holy Giant Robotical Sunflowers, Batman! A company is marketing a solar-powered, stand-alone heliostat in the shape of a giant sunflower. It tracks the sun with an onboard computer, directing heat and light to shady areas of the home and garden. The Sunflower Home Heliostat is 0.91 m in diameter, with a mirror surface of 4,903.22 sq cm—roughly the area of a 106.68 cm TV screen—and can be assembled with nothing but a Philips-head screwdriver. The company is marketing the device to consumers in North and South America, Europe, Australia and New Zealand for just under $400. (Source: treehugger.com)
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Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S
HOTTEST ITEMS Ask for them at your local indoor gardening store.
House & Garden’s N 27% Nitrogen Nitrogen is important for plant growth. It prevents leaf discolouration, stimulates the longitudinal growth of the plant and protects it against fungus diseases. House & Garden’s N 27% Nitrogen is converted quickly and easily by the roots into amino acids, which are the building blocks for proteins and important for the cell division in the entire plant. N 27% Nitrogen stimulates growth, contributes to leaf formation and strengthens root growth. Take your growth stage to another level—try N 27% Nitrogen. Available now at all good hydroponic retail shops.
Sun System’s Maximizer Reflector Announcing the return of the Maximizer Reflector®, the newest reflector in the Sun System Reflector lineup. This economical reflector is made with the same 95% reflective German aluminium that we use in all of our Sun System® reflectors. The adjustable beam spread design allows for specific light distribution depending on your garden size and shape. It is lightweight and simple to use. It is pre-wired with a cord and mogul socket. Visit an indoor gardening shop near you for more information.
House & Garden’s Coco Substrate House & Garden’s Coco substrate meets the strictest demands made by the RHP foundation for a consistently high-quality product that end-users demand. All House & Garden Coco undergoes a rigorous process of buffering and cleaning to ensure all impurities are washed out of the coco. Our coco is low EC and has perfect air to water ratio. It is produced by one of the largest Dutch substrate manufacturers in the Netherlands. Try House & Garden Coco for the best chance of success. Available now at all good hydroponic retailers.
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Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
House & Garden’s Drip Clean House & Garden’s Drip Clean is a completely safe agent for your plants, provided it is used in the right proportion. Drip Clean attracts dirt particles every time you feed your plants, ensuring the drip watering system is kept clean. Drip Clean never fails and is therefore a highly effective way of preventing your drip watering system from clogging. Drip Clean will also keep your system—either run-to-waste or recirculating—at the perfect EC level as it will draw out excess salts with every feed without the need for constant fresh-water flushing. Available now at all good hydroponic retailers.
Helios 13, 14, 16 and 17 by Titan Controls The new Helios 13™, 14™, 16™ and 17™ 240 V light controllers from Titan Controls® feature premium-quality Allen Bradley ballast-rated relays. The Helios 16 and 17 offer two trigger cord sets to activate the controllers via external timers. The Helios 13 and 14 offer premium-quality timers with battery backup, keeping the lighting schedule the same in the event of a power failure. The Helios 13 and 16 will control up to 16 HID lights at 240 V. The Helios 14 and 17 will control up to 24 HID lights at 240 V. Visit a hydroponics shop near you for more information.
Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
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5
The Top Five Mistakes Made by Advanced Growers
by Shane Hutto
Everybody screws up from time to time—Shane Hutto shows us where the pros often go wrong and how to avoid their mistakes. Once you’ve been gardening for awhile and you’ve gained some experience, you’ll likely outgrow the rookie mistakes—but that’s not to say the pros don’t make mistakes sometimes too! Being an advanced grower means you have made a lot of mistakes and learned from them—the typical overwatering and inadequate pest-management problems should be out of your system by now. The thing that really sets advanced growers apart from novices, though, is the ability to solve new problems in the grow room and then prevent them from reoccurring. The one problem I see a lot of expert growers struggle with is overconfidence—gardeners who think they know it all usually have the most to learn. Overconfident growers often quit checking the pH of their water or measuring their nutrients, for example. This is a really bad idea, because we work with plants and—as with any living thing—changes happen constantly.You should always check that your equipment is properly calibrated
"Never introduce too many new variables to your plants at the same time." 18
Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
and then use all the measuring tools in your arsenal to ensure your nutrients are precisely where you want them every time. Another big mistake I see experienced gardeners make is failing to institute an equipment maintenance program. Whether you need new bulbs, pH probes or yellow sticky cards, there is always some kind of equipment to buy, but there are a few things you can do that can help increase the lifespan of your equipment. Bulbs and hoods should be cleaned on a regular basis, but use a polishing cloth and don’t let the oils from your skin touch the bulb surface. Also, never touch the bulb or spray anything on it when it’s hot, as liquid on a hot bulb can cause the bulb to shatter. And to help improve the lifespan of your ventilation systems, clean your filters—this is one I see overlooked a lot, but it only takes a few minutes per filter and will allow your fans to run at a much lower stress level. As you become a more advanced grower you’ll likely want to increase the scale of your garden from time to
time. Any increase in the number of plants comes with a corresponding increase in workload, though, so tending a much bigger garden can become a bit overwhelming. The key is not to get lazy. It’s easy to say, “Oh, the plants all look pretty good. I’ll cut out early today and grab a beer.” If this becomes a habit your crops could suffer and never reach their full potential. Spending lots of time in the growroom around your plants and keeping up with your general tasks is the best way to catch problems early on when they are still fixable. Our industry is constantly coming up with new innovations and products to try and we all want to be on the cutting-edge of growing. When you introduce a new product or do something differently in your garden, however, you should only change one thing at a time—that way you can properly evaluate the effects of the new product or system. It’s also a good idea to have a “test garden” where you can set aside a few plants to experiment with so you can try new products without risking your crop. Never introduce too many new variables to your plants at the same time. Poor planning is another major problem for many advanced growers. In order to be successful year-round and have good harvests on a regular basis, you have to plan ahead. Sometimes, however, you might actually need to take a vacation. Garden sitters are a nice idea, but no one cares enough to baby your plants the way you do—your plants need the same level of care whether you’re around or not, so you must plan these things well in advance. They say growing is as much an art as it is a science—whether you are a newbie or a professional you will make mistakes, but the best growers are the ones who learn from their mistakes and are able to prevent them from happening again. That old saying couldn’t be more true—an ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure. MY
Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
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$1.2 Million
Under Glass Is it Worth the Expense? by Raquel Neofit Two years ago, a group of people and companies congregated at Victoria’s Chisholm Institute campus in Cranbourne to officially open a $1.2 million state-of-the-art controlled environment horticulture (CEH) glasshouse. Raquel Neofit recently toured with Tony Bundock, the facility’s head teacher, to find out exactly what goes on out there and if it’s all they hoped it would be.
The dream was of a state-of-the-art training facility that would revolutionise the face of hydroponic cultivation. It would be a melting pot of education, industry advancements and hydroponic promotions with a platform to showcase these achievements in a hands-on manner. The facility would be open to all who sought higher learning behind glass panes. Road works are in progress around the 1,500 sq m glasshouse as Tony Bundock meets me in the entrance, pushbike in tow. “The hike can take a few minutes, and when you’re running backward and forward all day, it wastes a lot of time; the bike’s much quicker,” Tony said. As the structure comes into view, I comment on the white walls, impenetrable to the eye. As he jokes about their top-secret facility, you really can’t help but like the guy and be carried 20
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along by his enthusiasm. Once inside, it’s like a one-way mirror in an NCIS interrogation room, complete with a live video feed and perfect views of the complex outside—I guess it really is a secret facility. This glasshouse is controlled by a central computer system known as Priva Integro, which tracks and manages everything from climate to growth to employee output. And it can all be monitored externally, even down to the UV water treatment system. It takes over an hour for Tony to run me through the basics of what this computer tracks and manages. “It’s all technology-based. I maintain this through my computer system at home on weekends,” Tony said. “Last year, I was in Europe and there was an irrigation problem; I fixed it sitting in England.”
Doug Oldaker, Chisolm crop worker
Every business takes baby steps in the beginning and this business is no different. This is, after all, a business relying on industry manufacturers to provide—and in turn promote— state-of-the-art equipment for commercial growers, gadgets and tools for growers. Companies like Faber Technology suppliers, Priva Technologies, Powerplants and AIS GREENWORKS all have a vested interest, supplying the glass structure, the growing system and the computer systems. Interested parties or students can come along and explore all that these ground-breaking suppliers have to offer. But don’t let the impressive structure, advanced equipment and high-tech computer system make you think there is nothing to offer the home or hobby grower.You’ll walk away with a wealth of information to advance your abilities along with a mountain of motivation to try something new in your own hydroponic greenhouse. One particular course of interest to the newbie or hobby hydroponic cultivator is titled “Introduction to Hydroponic Crop Growing.” It’s designed to introduce participants to the world of hydroponic growing, as well as enhance the basic growing skills of the hobby grower. They also run more in-depth and advanced courses. The best thing about these courses is that they adapt to the individual’s needs and Tony will take into account the knowledge you already have. “A lot of our courses are designed for people who already have certain skills but want to sharpen up on something,” Tony said. The commercial grower who doesn’t quite have a handle on the systems they have in place can try a “take-home Tony.” He’ll come to you and train your staff on the ins and outs of managing your greenhouse computer system. In fact he recently returned from a trip to Noosa. “It’s more financially viable to bring one person to you than a team out to us,” he said. This is just one of the ways they keep revenue coming in. Another is by hiring out the facility for conferences and as an external training centre to other businesses. “We want the glasshouse to act as a showcase for new CEH techniques and technologies,” Tony said. If you have a product Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
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$1.2 Million Under Glass: Is it Worth the Expense?
Recycled water? Tony: The gutters drain into one point, which then runs into our dirty water tank. We then take it [the water] out of the dirty water tank and mix it with fresh water and sterilise it with a UV treatment machine. Then we re-introduce it to the system. We tend to be pretty much self-sufficient in terms of water in winter, autumn and spring. Summer, we might need to get a little extra water in, but next door we have a water treatment plant, so we can actually run class-A water through the reverse osmosis machine and effectively use that water too.
Tony Bundock (right) and his energetic crew: Doug Oldaker (left) and Rebecca Meikle (centre)
that you want to show to the world, this arena offers a captivated audience, so to speak. It’s the ideal platform.” Which bring us to the future of Chisholm’s hidden world of hydroponics. Tony hopes that an increase in non-commercial cultivators will keep students flowing through his humid glass walls from the introduction to hydroponic growing course. Then there is the new generation of modern farmers, set to run high-tech indoor farms for the future. When Chisholm staff hit high schools promoting the horticulture industry, they are promoting the advanced computer systems they hope will lure our young generation into the industry and become the future of hydroponics. They are also in negotiation with Protected Cropping Australia (PCA) with the possibility the PCA might use the facility as a national training and research and development centre in the future.
So where does the money to run the facility come from. Do you rely mainly on industry support at this stage? Tony: We rely heavily on support from the industry. We’re not big enough to make a financial gain on what we do yet. We try to be cost neutral; we lost money in the first year, but we’re coming back on track this year. We’re learning. Our money comes from training—we rent out the facility and I’ve had other TAFE [technical and further education] colleges come in and do prep work. All this so students can try different things and be hands-on. It’s an expensive set-up. How do you think young people learning at this level will set up their own business? Tony: We appreciate what we have here is all very expensive. It’s almost like, if you drove a Mini and then got into a racing car; it’s quite hard to adapt, really. But if you can drive a racing car and then go back to a Mini, it’s not that hard, really. Not every grower has the finances to fork out for this computer system, but the lesser systems will still do a fair bit of that work for you.
Interview with Tony Bundock, the man behind the glass
How often do you bring in new students? Tony: In terms of the hobby market, we run them on demand.
Tell us about the system, Tony? Tony: This is a hydroponic system utilising drip irrigation and recycled drain water, with rockwool as the growing substrate. We grow in rockwool because we recycle all of our water and the rockwool doesn’t contaminate the drain water the way coir can.
So if a couple of people started today, where would they begin? Tony: Well, they need to have an understanding of plant physiology and the basic understanding of the chemical issues with fertilisers. We teach them the processes of the system in the glasshouse.
Why did you choose this hydro system? Tony: When we looked at the original specifications, we could have chosen anything really, but we went with this because it’s one of the cleanest, most efficient systems. We wanted a uniform system. It had to be hydroponic because that’s what the industry’s into; and in terms of efficiency, the only water you lose is through leaf evaporation.
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How do you think things are travelling in the glasshouse? Tony: We don’t profess to have everything 100% here because the students are all trying different things; it’s about having a demonstration purpose to the students.We’re still learning.This is only the second year we’ve run our crops. For the first year, it would be fair to say we chased our crop…but this year we’ve been more on top of it and next year we’re going to try to run to a blueprint. So, we’ll be saying,“next week we want to see this happening.”
Tony’s top-secret facility
Traditionally, TAFE colleges have plenty of students and rubbish facilities and, suddenly, we’ve found that we’ve got fantastic facilities and not enough students. So we’ve had to generate other different markets for what we do. The way that training has changed is that we don’t have the traditional 15 starting in a group in January, they are in dribs and drabs. So, we’re looking at doing a lot of our training online. That can be done anywhere in Australia or the world; it doesn’t matter. Then they’ll come in for a block of time, do their work and then take off again. We know we’re ahead of our time, so it’s pretty much generating a market. We can see the markets coming to us in the next three or four years, but we have to survive until then. We can’t expect Chisholm to keep putting their hand in their pockets. MY
What you can expect to find in the most advanced training facility Australia has to offer: • Private glasshouse management system that tracks everything • Full-control ventilation, heating, CO2 dosing, shade and energy curtains, UV water sterilisation, water treatment plant, video monitoring, fogging system, hydrologic lift trollies, tracking system for harvest rates and total production alarm systems for just about everything that can go wrong • Powerplants’ e-glasshouse system with remote monitoring via video feed • PrivAssit’s tracking system that records everything and is also linked to labour costs, including staff output Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
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Companion Planting by Matt LeBannister
in Hydroponics
Traditionally, companion planting is done outdoors, but it can be surprisingly simple in a hydroponic garden as well. Just remember, planning is everything. Companion planting in a garden system can be complicated. Certain plants will benefit from having companion plants growing alongside them; many plants demonstrate improved overall vigour when planted together because they can help each other by fighting off pests, giving mutual shade and providing homes for beneficial insects. However, there are also plants that should not be planted together because they can cause harm to each other. Plants that are susceptible to the same diseases, moulds and parasitic insects, for example, should never be planted together. Companion planting outdoors has been fairly widely discussed, but the idea of companion planting in hydroponics is a whole 24
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different game. Whereas most factors in the great outdoors are controlled by Mother Nature, the indoor grower must take her place in a hydroponic system. Factors such as light intensity, photoperiod, stage of plant growth—from cuttings all the way to flowering phases—EC or TDS levels, pH levels, temperature and humidity all play important roles in plant development and must be kept in mind when companion planting indoors. The pH level of the water in your reservoir has a major impact on plant growth. The pH scale is a way to measure how acidic or alkaline the water is. It ranges from one to 14, with one being the most acidic, 14 the most alkaline and seven being neutral. Plants have an ideal pH range that is generally between 5.6 and
6.8, and if the pH levels are allowed to drift outside of this range plants will begin to lock out elements, causing nutrient deficiencies. When companion planting in a hydroponic system you should choose plants with similar pH requirements—for example, chilli peppers and violets grow well together because their ideal pH range is 6.4 to 6.8. Electrical conductivity (EC), parts per million (ppm) and total dissolved solids (TDS) are also important to consider when companion gardening in a hydroponic system. These are different ways of measuring the general levels of nutrients in our hydroponics solution, and are essential to understand because different plants can handle different concentrations of nutrients. Many fruits and vegetables—like tomatoes, for example— need high levels of nutrients during their flowering phase and can tolerate nutrient levels in the range of 1,500 to 2,000 ppm. Nutrient-loving plants like this should obviously not share a hydroponic garden with plants that cannot handle such high salinity levels. Plants also prefer certain nutrients in more abundant levels depending on their stage of growth. For example, plants in their vegetative stage of growth require more nitrogen in order to promote leafy growth, whereas plants in the flowering stage need more phosphorous to promote fruiting and flowering. It wouldn’t really make sense to have plants that are in their vegetative stage growing alongside plants that are flowering in a hydroponic system because these plants require different levels of nutrients to achieve their full potential. Another factor to consider when companion planting in hydroponics is light intensity, which can be measured in different ways. Lumens are a good way to measure light intensity in hydroponics—one lumen is equal to the light one candle emits onto a 0.03 sq m surface. Just like pH and EC levels, different plants can handle more intense light levels while others prefer less.
“First, choose plants with similar pH and EC needs and then be sure to select plants that need the same amount of light for the same photoperiod.”
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companion planting in hydroponics
Plants that need Examples of plants that do best with high levels of light medium light levels—3,000 to 6,000 are generally fruiting lumens—are African violets, most leafy herbs, and flowering varieties, but cucumber and lettuce. These plants will do well there are many flowers that under a lower-wattage HID, or a larger-wattage prefer medium light levels as HID bulb that is placed 0.91 to 1.22 m away from well. Some examples of plants that the foliage, keeping the lumens in the required range. love a lot of light (6,000 to 12,000 There are also relatively new high-output T5 fluorescent lumens) and would make good companions together under light bulbs available that can be effective when placed 15 to an HID bulb would be roses, 30 cm away from the foliage. tomatoes, chrysanthemums Examples of plants that do best “Each plant is a unique creature with and basically any type of chilli with low light levels (500 to 3,000 its own special needs that must be met lumens) are bamboo, orchids, pepper. If these plants do not by the gardener in order for the plant to ferns and almost all seedlings and receive enough light they will be lanky and weak, with little cuttings. If these low-light plants reach its full potential.” fruit or flower setting, resulting receive too much light their leaves in a poor yield. will burn because the water will evaporate too quickly from the leaf surfaces. These plants do best under high-output T5 fluorescent bulbs, placed 30 to 61 cm away from the foliage. Most cuttings and seedlings also generally do very well under the older style T12 fluorescent light bulbs, since most plants require only a minimal amount of light for the first few weeks of growth. The optimal photoperiod—or length of uninterrupted light and uninterrupted darkness that a plant receives in a day—is also important to take into account when choosing plants to share a hydroponic system. Many plants need a photoperiod of 18 to 24 hours of uninterrupted light and between zero to six hours of darkness a day to remain in their vegetative state. These photoperiod-sensitive plants will also require a photoperiod of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness to flower indoors. When companion planting with hydroponics you need to separate plants in their vegetative state from those that are flowering— to have both flowering and vegetating plants at the same time will require two separate hydroponic systems. When companion planting in hydroponic systems, you 26
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must also consider the role temperature and humidity levels play in plant development. Just like all the other factors we’ve discussed, each plant has a certain preferred range of ideal temperature and humidity. Plants such as lettuce, orchids, seedlings and cuttings need a humid environment to thrive—without humidity levels of 40% and up, these plants risk losing more moisture from their leaves than they can replace. Most plants need a specific temperature range maintained for them to thrive indoors as well. Drift too far out of the ideal range and plant functions will begin to slow down, then stop—and prolonged exposure to unsuitable temperature levels will eventually lead to the death of the plants. Generally, this ideal range falls between 21 to 24°C during the day and 15 to 18°C at night with the lights off. There are also many plants that prefer things a little warmer or cooler. Plants that prefer the temperature at the cooler end of the range include lettuce, broccoli and certain species of orchids, while plants that prefer the warmer end of the temperature range include many other orchid species, chilli peppers, tropical varieties and cuttings. These plants all have specific temperature requirements and when they are not consistently maintained your yields will inevitably suffer. Each plant is a unique creature with its own special needs that must be met by the gardener in order for the plant to reach its full potential, and these distinctive requirements should be thoroughly examined and understood before attempting companion planting in any hydroponic system. First, choose plants with similar pH and EC needs and then be sure to select plants that need the same amount of light for the same photoperiod. Finally, select plants that have similar temperature and humidity requirements. Once you understand what the plants that inhabit your garden need and group the plants together accordingly, gardening success and improved yields will surely follow. MY
by Dr. Lynette Morgan
Think a greenhouse is a greenhouse is a greenhouse? Think again—the design of your greenhouse should be tailored to your local climate in order to produce those maximum yields…
A greenhouse is more than just a protective bubble for pampered plants—it serves to coax the best out of your hydroponic system and creates a pleasant, relaxing and productive space. Having a tropical oasis to take refuge in during a cold, frosty winter might seem ideal, but a good deal of planning and research needs to be carried out first to make sure the right design for the local climate has been selected. A greenhouse can be a beautifully lit, fantastically green, comfortable and airy space, or it can turn into every plant’s worst nightmare—baking hot in the summer, uncomfortably chilly in the winter and dripping with condensation all year-round. The difference is all in the design. 30
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Build It Right
Greenhouse materials
and obtain the maximum growth rates also acts to reduce temperatures—often Before the 1950s, glasshouses were pretty possible from their crops. to levels well below those of the outdoor much seen as small production units for environment. Low humidity levels Climate types and suitable the wealthy, who could afford to have allow for the effective use of evaporative personal gardeners growing out-of-season cooling, which is the main feature of greenhouse designs fruits and vegetables for their tables. cropping in this kind of dry, arid climate. Dry tropical or desert climates Then, the development of relatively inIn dry desert environments, temperatures Air movement is essential inside this type expensive plastic film materials prompted can be extremely high—hot enough to of structure to maintain good levels of a rapid expansion in many different types frazzle most plants inside a greenhouse transpiration within the crop, as this is of greenhouse structures—growers no structure unless cactus is the only crop another method of natural plant cooling. longer had to rely on smashable glass being grown. Temperatures of well More advanced high-tech, computerpanes and the heavy structural compoover 38°C year-round combined with controlled and air-conditioned structures nents they required for support. This low humidity are typical in this sort of are also used in climates like this. meant that both commercial and backyard growers now had the opHumid tropical climates "Before the 1950s, glasshouses were pretty much seen Tropical areas experience portunity to build or buy their own hot, muggy conditions cost-effective growing structures— as small production units for the wealthy, who could out-ofg growin both day and night for and they could be virtually any size, afford to have personal gardeners much of the year and shape or design. The development " tables. their for bles season fruits and vegeta are characterised by of new plastic technologies also heavy downpours on a sparked a rapid expansion in the regular basis. In lowland market that saw a wide range of preareas, the humidity can fabricated greenhouse kits becoming be extreme. Light levels available for the first time. While this can fluctuate from being sudden market boom gave gardenhigh on bright sunny ers a huge choice as far as protected days to being rather growing structures was concerned, it low under overcast also led to a lot of them making basic conditions, particularly mistakes when it came to selecting the during the rainy season. correct greenhouse design for their Insect pressure in tropical particular local climate. climates is often very Why different designs for high as well, requiring Dry, arid desert climate (Jordan). This tent greenhouse structure is the use of insect mesh different climates? designed to keep sand and dust out of hydroponic crops. Not all greenhouses are created over vents and on equal—a design that works well in a open-sided structures. Some cold climate with snowfall (or in a cool climate. The main environmental threats tropical growers prefer to site their climate with frost), low light and high are high winds carrying dust or sand, greenhouses in highland areas where winds will not be the best design for a which can blast both crops temperatures are typically cooler and humid, tropical climate with variable and greenhouses. humidity levels light intensity. Different greenhouses are A proven type of greenhouse structure less oppressive. characterised by the level of protection for this type of extreme climate is Good tropical greenhouse designs can from the outside environment they can be as simple as a rain cover or plastic actually just a simple tent with poles offer and their capability to control roof with open or roll-up sides covered set deeply into the ground, constructed the inside environment to a specific set with high-tensile steel wires to form with insect mesh. In larger greenhouses, of conditions. The level of protection a basic framework over which a single the structure is best designed with a required depends on the type of crop “sawtooth” roof layout—which allows layer of fine insect mesh is stretched and being grown and the local climate. The secured around the edges. This forms a good venting of the hot air inside the objective with building any greenhouse shaded and insect-proof structure that greenhouse on clear days. The top of is to find a design that will allow the allows adequate air exchange to prevent the vents sometimes features a roll-up grower to overcome the most limiting plastic cover stretching down to the heat buildup. Inside, the humidity can be climatic problems in their particular area increased by fogging or misting, which gutters to prevent rain from entering 32
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Build It Right
"Good tropical greenhouse designs can be as simple as a rain cover or plastic roof with open or roll-up sides covered with insect mesh."
and insulating and maintaining this heated air is the main consideration. Growers wanting year-round high growth Misting for temperature reduction inside a tent greenhouse in a dry, arid desert rates and climate (Jordan). maximum the greenhouse during downpours. Since yields in these environments usually select temperatures are warm day and night for greenhouses featuring fully clad side much of the year, heating and insulation walls, roof and side vents, allowing large aren’t required and vents can remain open, ventilation areas and computer control covered with insect mesh. Misting systems of environmental equipment such as and air-movement fans can be used to heaters, shade or thermal screens, fogging cool the environment inside this type of and vents. Temperate zone greenhouse structure and movable thermal screens can design often makes use of plastic cladding be employed to reduce incoming sunlight “twin skins” where the space between on bright, cloudless days and—when the two layers of plastic is inflated, pulled back—to allow maximum light offering improved insulation and better penetration under overcast conditions. environmental control. Since high winds from cyclones can be a major risk in this climate, these types of Cold temperate climates greenhouses are designed so that the wide Cold temperate climates are characterised insect mesh side covers will come away by large variations in day length and from the building before causing any temperature, especially in southern damage to the framework. regions. Daytime temperatures can be freezing during the winter months with Temperate climates short day lengths, while coastal regions Temperate climates are home to most of have short, mild summers and extended the world’s commercial hydroponic proday lengths. duction. They are characterized by seaGreenhouses for this type of sonal variations in temperature and yearenvironment need solid walls and strongly round moderate rainfall. The temperature constructed, comparatively steep solid variation is enough that environmental roofs to carry snow loads that would modification is required for at least part of collapse plastic film structures. These the growing season when the outside cligreenhouses are often double insulated mate is unsuitable—usually when it’s too by installing plastic film on the inside cold for optimum plant growth. Efficient walls and positioning retractable thermal heating of the air inside the greenhouse, screens across the eaves at stud height. 34
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To prevent heat loss, vents are often kept closed during the winter months. This— together with short day lengths—means supplementary carbon dioxide injection and HID lighting will be necessary for out-of-season crops.
Structural greenhouse design Most modern hydroponic greenhouses for all climates these days feature a stud height of at least 3 m and sometimes much more—an increase in height from early greenhouse designs that were often so low to the ground it was hard to stand up inside them. Regardless of the type or design of the greenhouse or what crop is being grown, a tall greenhouse structure provides a better environment for plants and a larger buffer against minor changes in external temperatures. The resulting improved capacity for air movement is a necessary aspect of modern greenhouse cropping that has been shown to benefit numerous crops by improving transpiration and reducing disease. The volume of air that needs to be heated in cooler climates can be reduced by pulling thermal screens across the greenhouse roof at night and heating only under the screen—this creates a large insulation layer above the screen and under the greenhouse roof, thus slowing the rate of heat loss through the cladding.
Backyard greenhouses For the serious hydroponic grower who wants to maximize yields from a backyard greenhouse the best option is to select a scaled-down version of a commercial greenhouse of the correct design for the local climate. Some design faults to look for with backyard greenhouse kits include the structure
being too small, which restricts airflow and can lead to a rapid buildup of heat. Also check for a fairly large top vent—the structure should have at least a manually opening window for venting or a large rollback vent in the roof. Avoid greenhouse kits that rely only on a small door opening to vent the house, as this rarely works under warm growing conditions.
"Temperate climates are home to most of the world’s commercial hydroponic production. They are characterized by seasonal variations in temperature and year-round moderate rainfall."
Top vents for temperature control and movable thermal screens for shading during the day and heat retention at night—temperate zone climate, New Zealand.
Only high-quality plastic film should be used as cladding material—it should be UV stabilized, with a suitably long life (at least three years) and you should make sure that you can get replacement claddings for the greenhouse when required. Many keen hydroponic growers have come to know the joys of a well-designed and highly productive greenhouse structure. However, getting the basics sorted before construction takes place is essential for the future health and productivity of your plants. Determining the type of outdoor climate you have, understanding the limiting factors that particular climate imposes on crop production and finding the best type of greenhouse structure to overcome those limitations is what all growers—large and small—need to do first. The same principles of greenhouse design apply to both large commercial installations and the smallest backyard structure—getting the basics right during construction will go a long way toward making any greenhouse a productive place to work or play. MY Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
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by Casey Jones Fraser There’s no point feeding your garden expensive nutrients if the stuff in your tap water is keeping the plants from absorbing them…
Water is the basis of any hydroponics set-up. Nutrients and supplements are added to the water, which they mix with and change. Water and the various elements found in water also have an effect on nutrients and supplements. To put it simply, nutrients change water and water changes nutrients.
Chlorine and chloramines
The most common issue regarding tap water and hydroponics is chlorine. Many growers don’t realize that chlorine (Cl) is a micronutrient required by plants. The quantity they need is extremely
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minimal, though, so you don’t ever need to add any. Most growers add Cl without realizing it, since it is already in tap water—this is a rookie mistake. Because plants can absorb this micronutrient, they take in far too much from unfiltered tap water. The result is diminished growth. Root health is also disturbed by Cl; beneficial bacteria and fungi are quickly killed off by this bleach-y element. The microflora and microfauna living in the root zone are key to high yields and healthy vigour—and without this bacteria, organic nutrients would be unavailable to roots. Don’t let Cl kill the good guys!
Many growers don’t realize that chlorine is a micronutrient required by plants. Chloramines are chemical compounds of ammonia and Cl that are also often used as municipal water supply sanitizers. Chloramines do not evaporate from water the way Cl does and many water filters that remove Cl cannot remove chloramine. The effects of chloramine on your garden are even more detrimental than Cl. To avoid the problems caused by these chemicals, invest in a water filter and make sure it takes out both Cl and chloramine. The improvement you’ll observe in plant health will be considerable, which should translate to a substantial increase in your harvest as well.
Hydroponics and chelates
Chelates keep nutrients, especially micronutrients, suspended in solution. Without chelates, some of the valuable elements in your hydro system would lock onto each other, forming chemical compounds that are worthless to your plants. Think of chelates as Teflon coatings for nutrients, keeping things free and available instead of stuck to something. Chelates can be chemical (like EDTA) or organic (like humic acid.) All hydroponic base nutrients contain chelates for maximum nutrient availability. As previously discussed, Cl is technically a micronutrient. When high-quality hydroponic chelates come into contact with it, Cl becomes even more likely to enter your plant’s vascular system. In other words, chlorine is even worse for your plants in the presence of high-quality nutrients. Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
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Tap Water
When scientists formulate hydro nutrients, they try to achieve the perfect nutrient ratios. Chemical pH adjusters contain phosphorus, potassium and other elements. Although our goal might be to correct our pH level, we end up changing the nutrient levels in the process. Another danger of pH adjusters is going too far in one direction or the other. If you accidentally drop the pH level to five, you then need to raise it up a bit—but now you’ve added acid and base to the same solution, which creates unwanted salts and altered nutrient ratios. Now consider the living organisms in your reservoir. We want to encourage beneficial inoculants, not poison them. Chemical pH adjusters in their concentrated form will kill many symbiotic organisms in your reservoir. When using pH adjusters, add them sparingly. Overwatering and warm water can also cause pH problems—not to mention root rot—so avoid those pitfalls as well. (For information on how to avoid pH adjusters altogether, check out my article “Soilless Salvation and pH Perfection” from maximumyield.com)
Do your garden a favour and add a diverse blend of beneficial bacteria to your solution—among the many benefits of these microbes will be white roots and big fruits. Don’t let Cl and chloramine use your nutrients against you—visit your local hydro shop and source out a filter that removes both substances, not just Cl.
The bubble has popped
Some growers used to “bubble out” the Cl in their solutions, meaning they would use an air stone and let the water sit out for 24 to 48 hours. With new technology, though, these chemicals are now just too tenacious to evaporate completely using this method. Again, the only reliable solution is a quality water filter. Most growers who switch from bubbling out to filtering report immediate improvements in plant health and garden performance. I made the switch several years ago and the results have been outstanding.
Water + oxygen = happy roots
When growing in hydroponics or using nutrient solutions, it is important to oxygenate the water. Experienced growers know that ideal water temperatures combined with motion are the keys to a healthy reservoir. It might also surprise you to know that adding bacteria is another step in the process to improving water. Beneficial bacteria want an aerobic (oxygen-rich) environment. When we provide cool temperatures and water movement, some strains of bacteria will actually pull in oxygen and make it part of the solution. Do your garden a favour and add a diverse blend of beneficial bacteria to your solution—among the many benefits of these microbes will be white roots and big fruits.
pH adjusters
Here we have another conundrum: incorrect pH levels reduce growth—however, correcting the pH level will also alter nutrient levels. 38
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Wetting agents
If you fling some clean water on a pane of glass, you can see that the droplets form into rounded beads. This is the natural tendency of water, due to its surface tension. If you do the same with soapy water, the droplets spread out much farther than they would without the soap. Clean water creates a lump; soapy water creates a film. My physics professor, Dr. Benjamin Malphrus, used to say “Soap makes water wetter.” Wetting agents like soap cause water to coat surfaces, rather than just rest on them—that’s why we use these products with foliar sprays to achieve an all-over coating effect. The same rules apply to roots. When wetting agents are used in your nutrient solution, the mix will spread over the surface of the roots, increasing the efficiency of nutrient applications. Some common wetting agents include coconut extracts, quillaja saponaria (soap bark extract) and organic castile soaps.
Calcium, magnesium and RO systems
Measure the water coming out of your tap with an EC or ppm meter. If your water is like most, it probably contains 150 ppm or even higher levels of unwanted salts. This level of salt in your water limits the amount of inputs you can add. If your nutrient recipe is designed to achieve 1,300 ppm and you use salt-laden
tap water, the results will be over 1,450 ppm. These unintended salt increases might burn your plants or interfere with your nutrient regimen. What is that 150+ ppm comprised of, anyway? Often it consists largely of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg).You might think, “Great—I needed that anyway!” but you would be mistaken. The particular forms of Ca and Mg that are contained in municipal water are often the large-molecule variety—and large molecules cannot fit into the small pores on plant roots. They are not absorbed by plants, but instead just attract other Ca molecules with a snowball effect. The only way to reduce salt content is with a reverse osmosis filter. RO filters might seem expensive, but damaged nutrients and Ca lockout can cost more than filtered water. RO units made for the hydroponics industry include carbon and sediment filters to deal with the problems discussed in previous sections, so they have multiple advantages. Like most of my recommendations, the main goal here is healthier plants and bigger yields. If you want to grow like a pro, get to know your water!
No Longer Chlorine-free Did you know? The city of Busselton was the only WA city with chlorinefree water...until recently. Until recently, the Busselton Water Board used an ultraviolet purification system. By mid-May, chlorine was being used instead. Busselton Water acknowledges the community's opposition to the initiative, but said they made the decision to protect peoples’ health. “Because we have warmer water and it is an environment that is conducive, unfortunately, to certain types of naegleria, a bacteria growing in the system in that warmer water, we need to have a residual in that water to protect our customers,” Chief executive Keith White said. (Source: abc.net.au) MY
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Reverse Osmosis by Jennifer Casey
How to Get the Most out of Your RO System Pure water is as important for your plants as it is for you—find out how to use a reverse osmosis filter to get the most out of your garden and learn how to extend the life of your filter membranes at the same time…
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“You’d probably never consider using pool water for Reverse osmosis isn’t your plants, a new idea in the but city water world of hydroponic straight from the gardening—pure water tap is really just a is an integral part of any milder version of hydroponic system and the same most growers are aware of the need for water that’s free stuff.” of contaminants. If you’re new to hydroponics or you have questions about water purification, though, then read on for a complete breakdown of reverse osmosis in layman’s terms. First, let’s take a minute to examine why we need pure water. Since “hydroponics” means growing plants in water without the use of soil, then it makes sense that the quality of the water you employ should be good. Pure water is also an integral part of soil gardening—chemicals and other contaminants can be detrimental to the health of your plants whether you are growing hydroponically or traditionally. The water you give your plants should be the best you can make it. I say “make it” because you can control the contaminants in your water—you don’t have to be stuck with that chemical tap flow from the municipality or the sludge in your well.
The nutrient feed formula you give your plants is based on a measure of parts per million, which indicates how many parts of nutrients there are per million parts of water—we’ll refer to this measurement as ppm from here on. When your water comes out of the tap it already has a ppm measurement that must be accounted for before adding nutrients. This means that if you already have 300 ppm water, you’ll have to decrease the nutrients you administer by that number to avoid overloading your plants. This is a problem, though. Now your plants are getting fewer nutrients because of the non-nutritious crap that is present in your water source. The stuff present in your water is also often
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not only non-nutritious, but might actually be toxic to your plants. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg)—minerals found in almost all water—are important nutrients for both plants and the human body. The Ca and Mg found naturally in water, however, is present in the form of large blocky particles that bind against the roots of your plants and can cause nutrient lockout—basically, the particles crowd up against the roots and don’t allow any of the good stuff to get through. While this sounds dramatic, it’s not even the worst news about your water supply—chlorine (Cl) or chloramines are also generally added to your water by your local municipality in order to kill bacteria and render the water safe for drinking. Unfortunately, these substances are great at killing plants as well and are the reason plants like algae don’t grow in swimming pools and hot tubs. You’d probably never consider using pool water for your plants, but city water straight from the tap is really just a milder version of the same stuff. Although some wells are shocked with chlorine, generally well water users don’t have to worry as much about Cl or chloramines—but Ca and Mg are often found in much higher levels in well water. Additionally, contaminants such as cadmium, arsenic, boron, manganese, hydrogen sulphide (for that just-peeled egg aroma) and iron can be present in levels that are not only toxic to plants but to the human body as well. Some of these substances—though more common to wells—are found in your tap water too, as municipalities don’t have the means to remove them. Now that I have you good and worried, let’s talk about how an RO system can rid your water of these nasty contaminants so you can have a healthy garden. Water purifiers for your garden come in two types: dechlorinators and reverse osmosis systems. The difference is an extra filtration step in the RO systems. Dechlorinators employ two steps of filtration, the first being a sediment filter that traps large particles and keeps them from causing the next step—the carbon filter—from getting clogged up. Sediment filters can usually be rinsed and reused regularly before their annual replacement. The next step in filtration is the carbon filter, which removes chlorine from the water—if your municipality uses chloramines, you’ll want to use a special KDF carbon filter. Chloramine is a Cl molecule bonded with an ammonia molecule. This chemical is used in place of Cl because it lasts longer in the water and won’t bubble out and evaporate like Cl will. Good for water treatment, but bad for your plants! For simple dechlorinators this is where it ends—Cl, chloramines and sediment are removed and water is improved. However, ppm will not be greatly affected. If your water was under 150 ppm out of the tap, this might be enough filtration for your plants. If your ppm if higher than 150, if you have any funky contaminants in 44
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“The stuff present in your water is also often not only non-nutritious, but might actually be toxic to your plants.” your water or if you simply want the purest water for your garden, then an RO system is what you need. This is where the membrane comes in. In RO, a membrane looks like a plastic cylinder with a hole in either end. It’s called a membrane because the process of osmosis is actually the diffusion of water through a membrane, which is a barrier with small openings—or pores—that only lets certain things through. The cell walls of organisms (like humans and plants) are membranes and allow certain substances through but lock others out. Our skin is a membrane that lets some things in but keeps things like bacteria out. An RO membrane works the same way—it’s composed of a super-thin sheet of polymer punctured with tiny holes. By tiny I mean 1/1,000th of a micron, the perfect size for a water molecule to pass through. The sheet of polymer is then rolled up to create layer after layer. When the water is directed into the membrane, it has to diffuse through all these layers, meaning every single water molecule of purified water has to go through hundreds of these tiny openings. It’s like an exclusive night club—the bouncer only lets the right kind of molecules past the velvet rope. If you have used an RO system, you might have been surprised that the water didn’t come out immediately and with as much volume as it went in. Well, now you know why—it’s been waiting in line to get in to the club! It takes time for the good water to pass through the membrane molecule by molecule and the rest passes out of the membrane as waste water. People new to the process of RO are often surprised by the waste water factor; that is, the amount of unpurified water that remains for each measure of pure water. Most systems are built to support a ratio of three parts waste water to one part pure water—they are built this way because this ratio best supports the life of the membrane. Bear with me while I extend the nightclub metaphor—some molecules just don’t make it into the club. Calcium, Mg and various other contaminants won’t get past the bouncer. This also helps explain why so much waste water is necessary. It’d be nice if these contaminants
simply left, but they’re stubborn and kind of belligerent and they need to be forced to leave. The bouncer turns them away at the door, but then they hang around causing trouble, so good water molecules have to wash them away. The contaminants are stubborn and want to hang around the door fighting with the bouncer. The more waste water there is, the easier it is on your membrane (bouncer). Should you choose to use a flow restrictor to reduce your waste water, there won’t be as much waste water to help wash those contaminants away and you may decrease the lifespan of your membrane. Damage to your membrane can happen in one of two ways: it can become either fouled or corroded. When contaminants build up in the membrane they won’t allow any other molecules through those tiny pores—effectively shutting down the club—or they might actually smash right through the opening, enlarging it and rendering it an ineffective barrier. Basically, they take out the bouncer and then anything can get in. In the former case, the membrane becomes clogged up— this is called fouling or saturating the membrane—and it will cause a dramatic decrease in your flow rate. Where there was a healthy stream there will only be a trickle, because those water molecules can’t get through. Should you neglect to change your carbon pre-filter, you will have the opposite problem—as the Cl that is now getting through your tired carbon filter will enlarge the openings and corrode the membrane. Now the flow rate will actually increase, which seems great—until a ppm reading reveals that your rejection rate has decreased and you are no longer getting clean water. Either of these two things might have happened when it’s time to change your membrane, but restricting your waste water might mean that they have happened sooner rather than later because you are concentrating the water and you might be going through membranes a bit more quickly than before. If saving water is of primary importance this could be a good trade, but individual needs vary from person to person. When considering how to best extend the life of your membrane, it’s good to recognize that this fouling or corroding issue also depends on what’s actually in your water. If your water is very high in Cl or chloramines, corroding will be the main issue. If your water has iron or very high mineral content, then fouling will occur. In both cases, proper pre-filtration can help preserve your membranes. Finding out what’s in the water by getting a water test or checking with your local water treatment centre will help you to choose the right pre-filter, such as a KDF or, i n the presence of iron, a philox filter. If you have hard water, a water softener is also an excellent way to preserve your membranes. It works by exchanging hardness (minerals) for salt, which doesn’t sound too plant-friendly— but salt is actually the ideal contaminant for RO to remove. It doesn’t get in the club but takes the rejection politely, leaving your membrane intact and still able to perform its job.
It’s a good idea to explore what’s in your water. Start by finding the website of your local municipality or by doing an Internet search of your area and its water content.Your local hydro store is also an excellent resource— the employees there know all about what’s in the local water and can guide you to the product that will work best for you. And when you do get your RO system, be sure to change those pre-filters to protect your membrane and save money. Once you start using pure water in your garden, the difference will amaze you. MY
Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
45
Growers Know
A Shaw Thing
by Raquel Neofit
Chris and Anne’s faithful team
DATA
SHEET Who: Peninsula Aqua Growers, Chris and Anne Shaw Where: 278 Craigie Rd. , Mount Martha, Victoria What: A variety of lettuces and herbs, spinach, radicchio and beetroot GROWER’S KNOW
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Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
Twenty-one years ago, Chris and Anne Shaw opened a hydroponic farm after they realised that local council laws would prevent them from operating a commercial game farm raising pheasants and quails. So, armed with some knowledge on irrigation acquired from Anne’s dad, they jumped head first into the unknown. “It certainly was a big learning curve,” Anne said. “But Chris said he was prepared to learn the growing side of it, so we did.” Today, they grow on a low-tech site of about two acres nestled between bushland in Victoria’s semi-rural Mount Martha with the handy help on their son, John, and guard dog, Jacky. The Shaws have 14 greenhouses, 60 tables under shade cloth (to allow the red lettuces to colour from the sun and keep the local cockatoo population at
bay), and a seedling shed, and they run on the IMP system for pest management. “We use small wasps that eat the aphids, which means, while we’re not organic, we spray as little as possible,” Anne explained. The Shaws are proof that you don’t need a high-tech computer system and a degree in advanced IT to run a successful hydroponic business, and they are keen to talk about the benefits of the set-up they run. Their system of choice is the nutrient film technique. “A very fine film of water comes down the channels 24 hours a day, 365 days a year and the kind of system we have uses 5% of the water to grow the same dollar value in the ground, so that’s an incredible saving on water,” Anne said proudly. The Shaws are also well aware of the benefits in reducing carbon footprints,
especially food miles. The couple rattled off an impressive list of leading local restaurants, cafes and fresh food stores that their driver delivers to on a daily basis. And you won’t find a cool room full of produce waiting for tomorrow’s delivery. Here, they pick, they pack and they ship out on the same day. They have also partnered up with the Mornington Peninsula Gourmet, an organisation dedicated to promoting the local food and wine culture. The Shaws are actively involved in following the local-branding project through and promoting the Mornington Peninsula as an area that produces top-quality produce. Still, they are adamant that quality and taste are their number one concern on the farm. They believe that, if you use a great variety of seed stock, hydroponics produces a quality product that is cleaner and more environmentally friendly than those produced through other growing methods. She also commented on the number of plants they can grow on as little as two acres. “We can get 10 to 12 crops a year,” she said, and they have space for around 50,000 plants at a time. Anne also tells me how their lettuce was able to survive the heat wave Melbourne received last year. Finally, the Shaws have complete confidence that hydroponics will be one of the main ways we feed ourselves in the future. “As we go into the future, we’ll see more grown hydroponically because it will be grown close to the population,” Anne said. MY
Chris with guard dog Jacky
Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
47
You Tell Us
Jim Ramsahai, general manager of Can-Filters B.V., talks to Maximum Yield about the company’s two market divisions, various brands and YouTube videos… Maximum Yield (MY): How did Can-Filters get its start? Jim Ramsahai: It all started when the brother of the owner was spraying cars in his backyard and he blew the polluted air outside. The neighbours, of course, started complaining; it all went to court. The judge decided he could still go on with this activity [but] he…had to find a solution for the polluted air. This all resulted in the first cylindrical filter with activated carbon. Now, 25 years later, Can-Filters is the standard [in regards to] filters, covering the whole world with locations in Holland, one in Canada and two in the United States.
MY: Who is in charge of researching and developing new product ideas for the brand? Jim: We are continuously in the process of innovating and improving our products. It all starts with our sales people listening carefully to the clients, who tell them what they need. They [our sales people] communicate it with our research and development department. At the same time, we have an industrial division of Can-Filters…All the feedback we get from our industrial clients are processed for the benefit of the hydroponics markets as well.
MY: Why do indoor gardeners need fans? Jim: Fans are needed in grow rooms for several reasons. 48
Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
Lightning causes heat and fans will remove the heat by refreshing the air. Plants transpire a lot; fans remove the water from the room. Plants consume carbon dioxide; you have to bring in fresh air for breathing. If you have odour concerns, fans in combination with Can-Filters will provide odour control.
MY: What should growers be looking for in a fan when shopping? Jim: First of all, you need a fan that fits your filter. Normally, we advise that a fan has 20% more capacity than the filter [it will be used with] in order to compensate for the pressure drop. Then, depending on the specifics of the garden and the money you want to spend, you have big choice.
MY: What are the differences between Can-Filters, Can-Fan, Max-Fan and Can-Lite products? Jim: “Can-Filters” is our brand name for filters. In our program, we have three different lines of filters: The Original Line, the 38-Special and the Lite Line. We are the only manufacturer providing palletized carbon (Original and 38-Special) and light carbon. Can-Fan is the brand name for our German-based ventilation system. In this program, we have different ventilation systems: Can-Fan, Max-Fan and ISOMAX. Can-Fan is the “normal
ventilation” like the RK (plastic), RS (steel), RKW (temperature control) and the four-speed. These are all top German-manufactured ventilation systems with one rotor. Max-Fan is a patented, unique product that includes both a rotor and a stator. The rotor creates the airflow and the stator uses airplane aerodynamics technology to turn the swirl of the airflow into a beam, resulting in less friction with ducting and, therefore, a higher efficiency. For ISOMAX, we took the Max-Fan and build a silencer around it.
MY: What makes Can-Filters “Simply the Best?” Jim: Our 25-year experience on markets all over the world, combined with our innovative attitude to improve all the time and…our experience in the mainstream industry. Lots of companies pretend they have an industrial division; we don’t pretend. We have an industrial division for more than 15 years and [it’s] still going strong.
MY: What safety and efficiency concerns to growers need to be aware of? Jim: When you buy a fan, an easy-to-use wiring schedule is always included in the box. Position the fan in a way that no body parts are exposed to danger. Also, no fans on the floor; keep them out of water danger. We only sell electrically approved fans. The consumption is lower and, therefore, has better efficiency.
MY: What kind of advice can indoor growers expect to gain from watching the videos on Can-Filters’ YouTube channel? Jim: What we want the videos to illustrate there is lots of copy product on the market. Those products don’t deliver what they promise. A lot of the time, certain suppliers state capacities on boxes that are made up. With a simple test, we show to everybody the difference between quality products like ours and low-quality copies.
MY: What innovative products and ideas can our readers expect from Can-Filters in the future? Jim: Can-Filters has always been the most innovative company in our segment of the market. Our mission statement has always been to look for the best products, using the technology of tomorrow in order to create products consumers love to use. We are now in the progress of releasing eight new filters on the markets all over the world….in the Can-Fan range, we will introduce the next generation of Max Fans and ISOMAX within 12 months. MY Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
49
MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
AUSTRALIA ACT
South Pacific Hydroponics #2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609 South Pacific Hydroponics 70 Oatley Court , Belconnen ACT 2617
(02) 6239 2598 (02) 6251 0600
NEW SOUTH WALES ABC Aquaculture 54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259 (61) 2 4393 3131 ASE Hydroponics Factory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 (02) 9477 3710 Ballina Hydro 3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478 (02) 6686 7321 Brunswick Hydro & Aquarium Supplies 19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 (02) 6685 1552 Criscete Hydroponics and Organics Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5779 Dr. Van Der Bloom’s Hydroponics Supplies 5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450 (02) 6651 9992 Dubbo Hydro & Tobacconist 42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830 (02) 6885 1616 Ezi Grow Hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro 1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 (02) 4588 5826 Ezi Grow Hydro 56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro - Head Office 18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795 (02) 6337 1485 Favgro Hydroponics Growers 107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536 (02) 4472 7165 Felanza - Hydroponics 140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205 (02) 9556 1494 General Hydroponics 7/14 Sunnyholt Road, Blacktown NSW 9676 (02) 9676 8682 Grow Australia Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 (02) 9473 5000 Grow Your Own Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5179 Happy Grow Hydro 15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750 (02) 4732 2870 Hobby Grow 6/46 Through Street South Grafton NSW 2460 (04) 2283 8069 Home Harvest 423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216 (02) 9567 8841 Hyalite Moorebank 6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9824 3400 Hyalite Villawood 2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 (02) 9723 7199 Hydro Masta 100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 (02) 8812 2845 Hydro Masta Pty Ltd 76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121 (02) 9869 3011 Hydro Net 2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4334 6955 Hydro Place 1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287 (02) 4965 6595 Hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies 2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 (02) 4958 1489 Hydro Shop Pty Ltd Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 (02) 4960 0707 Hydro Supplies 57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (02) 9326 0307 Hydro Wise B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4333 5700 Hydroponics Grow All Year 14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 (02) 6921 5911 Hygrow Horticulture (Greenlite) 252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 (02) 9369 3928 Indoor Sun Shop 745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 (02) 9808 6511 Indoor Sun Shop Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9822 4700 International Fans PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 (02) 9833 7500 Kyper’s Tools and Hydroponics Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mullumbimby NSW 2482 (02) 6684 4928 Lismore Hydro 1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311 Lismore Hydroponics rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311 Northern Nursery Supplies Pty Ltd 14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 (02) 6563 1599
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Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each state.
Nowra Hydro 68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 Nutriflo Hydroponic Systems 19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 Parkview Plants 250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 Port Pumps and Irrigation 20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 Quik Grow 510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 Quick Grow 823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 Quik Grow Pty Ltd 490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 Simple Grow Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 Tweed Coast Hydroponics 2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 Uncle Wal’s Gardenland 31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 Home Grown Aquaponics 13/8a-8b Hartley Drive, Thornton NSW 2322 Westside Lighting & Electrical (Ezi Range) PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 Wollongong Hydroponic Center 318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 NORTHERN TERRITORY Katherine Hydroponics Centre 17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 QUEENSLAND A Happy Medium Hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 Allgrow Hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 Aquatic Oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 Billabong Hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 D-Bay Hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 E.T. Grow Home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 Eye Lighting Australia Pty Ltd PO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 Green Power Hydroponics 2/80 Beerburrum Road, Caboolture QLD 4510 Grow Hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 H2 Gro Pty Ltd 2 Sonia Crt.,Raceview QLD 4305 Hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt.,Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 Hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 Hydroponics Today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 Indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068 J&K Hydroponics 10 Wacol Station Road, Wacol, Brisbane QLD, 4076 KY Garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 Nerang Hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 North Queensland Hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 Northern Hydroponics 383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 Pioneer Hydroponics 194 Doyles Road, Pleystowe QLD 4741 SA Hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 Simply Hydroponics Gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 Sunstate Hydroponics 1137 Ipswitch Road, Moorooka QLD 4105 Sunstate Hydroponics 67 Aerodrome Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 The Hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051
(02) 4423 3224 (02) 4323 1599 (02) 4423 0599 (02) 6581 1272 (02) 9636 7023 (02) 9546 8642 (02) 9568 2900 (02) 9604 0469 (07) 5524 8588 (02) 6550 0221 (02) 4028 6388 1 800 661 475 (02) 4225 8773
(08) 8972 1730
(07) 3809 3322 (07) 3376 7222 (07) 3245 7777 (07) 4126 3551 (07) 3204 8324 (07) 5591 6501 (07) 3335 3556 (07) 5428 1133 (07) 3816 3206 (07) 3294 3253 (07) 5593 7385 (07) 4091 3217 (07) 4035 5422 (07) 4683 3133
(07) 3271 6210 (07) 3375 9098 (07) 5527 4155 (07) 4728 3957 (07) 4054 5884 (07) 4959 2016 (07) 3285 1355 (07) 5596 2250 (07) 3848 5288 (07) 5479 1011 (07) 3354 1588
Tumbling Waters Hydroponics 2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 Walsh’s Seeds Garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 SOUTH AUSTRALIA Amazon Aquariums & Gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Ascot Park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 Barry’s Hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 Bolzon Home & Garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 Complete Hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 Country Hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 D & W Dependable Hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 Festive Hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 Fulham Gardener Nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 Glandore Hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 Greener then Green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noarlunga South SA 51 Greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 Greenhouse Superstore Royal Park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 Ground-Up Service Nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 Harvest Time Hydroponics Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 Hindmarsh Hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 Highland Hydro 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 Hong Kong Hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Hydro Heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 Hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 Hydro Technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 Hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 Hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 Koko’s Hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 Larg’s Bay Garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 Martins Road Hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 Mitre 10 Drive In 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 New Age Hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 Owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 Professional Hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 Professional Hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 Professional Hydroponics 113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA Seaton Hydroponics 129 Tapleys Hill Road Seaton SA 5023 Soladome Aquaculture & Hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 South Coast Hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 State Hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019
(07) 4096 6443 (07) 4636 1077
(08) 8359 1800 (08) 8357 4700 (08) 8281 4066 (08) 8265 0665 (08) 8396 3133 (08) 8258 4022 (08) 8645 3105 (08) 8287 6399 (08) 8523 5100 (08) 8235 2004 (08) 8447-1122 (08) 8371 5777 (08) 8386 2596 (08) 8382 0100 (08) 8447 5899 (08) 8264 9455 (08) 8244 0222 (08) 8346 9461 (08) 8395 4455 (08) 8260 2000 (08) 8391 1880 (08) 8272 2000 (08) 8241 5022 (08) 8377 1200 (08) 8262 8323 (08) 8260 5463 (08) 8242 3788 (08) 8283 4011 (08) 8445 1813 (08) 8351 9100 (08) 8528 6008 (08) 8353 0133 (08) 8365 5172 (08) 8532 3441 (08)82682636 (08) 8362 8042 (08) 8384 2380 (08) 8341 5991
Tea Tree Gully Hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 Two Wells Hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 Urban Grow Solutions 1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 West Garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 TASMANIA Advanced Hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 Ezy Grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 Garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277
(08) 8264 9455 (08) 8520 2287 (08) 8322 0040 (08) 8255 1355
(03) 6344 5588 (03) 6243 9490 (03) 6330 1177
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Green Acres Hydroponics Unit 1 46-48 Bingalong Rd, Mornington, TAS 7018
(03) 6245 1066
---------------------------------------------------------------------------Growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 Hydroponics Systems 131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 Hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 Organic Garden Supplies Tas 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 Tas Hydroponic Supplies 99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 The Hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 The Hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428
(03) 6273 6088 (03) 6278 3457 (03) 6435 4411 (03) 6424 7815 (03) 6272 2202 (03) 6273 1411 (03) 6340 2222
VICTORIA Albury Hydroponics / Cappers Hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 61 (02) 6024 4029 All Seasons Hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 (03) 9540 8000 Banksia Greenhouse and Outdoor Garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9801 8070 Barb’s Hydro and Nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 (03) 5674 2584 Bayside Hydroponics Factory 2/8 Rutherford Road, Seaford Vic 3196 (03) 9775 0495 Belgrave Hydroponics 5/ 60-68 Colby Drive, Belgrave Heights Vic 3160 (03) 9754 3712 Brew ‘N’ Grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 (03) 9783 3006 Casey Hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 (03) 5996 3697 Casey Hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 (03) 9796 3776 Chronic Hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 (03) 9646 8133 Complete Garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 9776 Discount Hydroponics 752 Waverley Road, Chadstone Vic 3148 (03) 9568 1860 Echuca Hydroponic Nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 2036 Echuca Pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 7080 Excel Distributors Pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 (03) 9495 0083 F.L.O.W. Plants and Environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 (03) 9510 6832 Gardensmart 810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 (03) 9769 1411 Global Hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400 Greenleaf Hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844 (03) 5176 0898 Greenleaf Hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 (03) 9739 7311
GreenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 (03) 9870 8566 Grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 (03) 9435 6425 Holland Forge Pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 (03) 9764 1372 Hydroware 59a Lara Way, Campbellfield, Vic, 3061 (03) 9357 8805 Hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452 Hyalite Bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946 Hyalite Global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400 Hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510 Indoor Garden Company 29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 (03) 9416 1699 Impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515 JB Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399 Just Hydroponics Deer Park Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861 Just Hydroponics Geelong Unit 7 36-38 Saunders street, North Geelong, VIC 3215 (03) 5278 6478 Latrove Valley Home Brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140 Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055 Melton Hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256 Midtown Hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300 One Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177 Pam’s Home Brew & Hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143 Palms & Plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 (08) 8285 7575 Prestige Hydroponics Pty. Ltd. S 2.10 Level 2, 343 Little Collins St. Melbourne VIC Australia 3000 61 4 187 81083 Shepparton Hydroponics 87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 (03) 5831 6433 Simply Hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 (03) 9360 9344 Simply Hydroponics 8, 59-61 Miller St., Epping 3076 (03) 9408 4677 Sunlite Hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 (03) 5222 6730 Simply Hydroponics - Pakenham Factory 6/3-11 Bate Close Pakenham, Victoria 3810 03 5940 9047 Sunray Hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 (03) 5023 6422 Supply Net International P/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 (88) 264-3600 The Hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 (03) 9761 0662 Waterworks Hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 (03) 9465 1455 WESTERN AUSTRALIA Accent Hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 Aqua Post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 Aquaponics Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 Bunbury Alternate Growing Supplies 8/13 Worcestor Bend, Davenport, WA 6230 Creative Hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 Great Southern Hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road, Bunbury WA 6230 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd.,Maddington WA 6109 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 Greenlite Hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 Growsmart Hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 Hydro Nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163
(08) 9375 9355 (08) 9354 2888 1800 640 222 (08) 9725 7020 (08) 9528 1310 (08) 9721 8322 (08) 9452 0546 (08) 9274 8388 (08) 9345 5321 (08) 9841 3220 (08) 9336 7368
Hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 Isabella’s Hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Johnson’s Nursery Garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 Neerabup Organic & Hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 One Stop Hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 Perth Hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 Reptile and Grow Store Unit 7 - 117-119 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 Southwest Hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 The Grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 Bloem PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 The Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 The Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 The Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 Water Garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017
(08) 9248 1901 (08) 9206 0188 (08) 9371 5757 (08) 9306 3028 (08) 9921 6016 (08) 9404 7155 (08) 9471 7000 (08) 9478 1211 (08) 9527 2245 (08) 9534 8544 (08) 9356 7044 (08) 9217 4400 (08) 9473 1473 (08) 9495 1495 (08) 9274 3232 (08) 9443 7993
NEW ZEALAND
Easy Grow New Lynn 3018 Gt North Rd New Lynn, Auckland Easy Grow Manukau 15/69 Wiri Station Road, Manukau, Auckland Guru Gardener 14 Molesworth St., New Plymouth Otaki Hydroponics 1083 S.H. 1 South Otaki House of Hydro 221 Waiwhetu Rd., Lower Hutt Wellington Pet and Garden 10 Fitzgerald Ave., Christchurch Grow and Brew 14a Flexman Place, Silverdale Auckland Green Day Hydroponics Cnr of Maunganui Rd & Tawa St., Mt Maunganui Switched on Gardener Number 189 (Lower) Dent Street, Whangarei Switched on Gardener Unit 159 Central Park Drive, Henderson Switched on Gardener Unit 1/60 Ti Rakau Drive, Pakuranga Switched on Gardener Number 1c Sunshine Ave, Hamilton Switched on Gardener Number 513 Heretaunga Street West, Hastings Switched on Gardener Number 62 Kaiwharawhara Road, Wellington Switched on Gardener Unit 7/67 View Road, Glenfield Switched on Gardener Number 1 Rata Street, New Lynn Switched on Gardener Number 57 Cavendish Drive, Manukau Switched on Gardener Number 427 Cameron Road, Tauranga Switched on Gardener Number 1060 Fergusson Drive, Upper Hutt Switched on Gardener Number 3 Pascoe Street, Nelson Switched on Gardener Number 9 Buckley Road, Linwood Switched on Gardener Number 143 Tuam Street, Christchurch CBD Switched on Gardener Number 313 King Edward Street, Dunedin
09 827 0883 09 263 7560 06 758 6661 06 364 2206
03 377 2507 09 426 2095 07 575 4090 (09)438 0223 (09) 837 1210 (09) 576 0296 (07) 850 8351 (06) 876 7885 (04) 472 5265 (09) 443 0106 (09) 826 4444 (09) 263 4336 (07) 579 9840 (04) 526 3913 (03) 546 4769 (03) 381 0937 (03) 374 5682 (03) 456 1980
Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
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DO YOU KNOW?
1.
Before the 1950s, glasshouses were pretty much seen as small production units for the wealthy, who could afford to have personal gardeners growing out-ofseason fruits and vegetables for their tables.
2.
COMING UP IN September-October ISSUE FOCUS Nutrients & Lighting Issue
Some common wetting agents include coconut extracts, Quillaja saponaria (soap bark extract) and organic castile soaps.
3.
When companion planting in a hydroponic system you should choose plants with similar pH requirements—plants such as chili peppers and violets grow well together, because their ideal pH range is 6.4 to 6.8.
4.
Condensation is one of the major threats to greenhouse crops— droplets falling onto plants create a level of leaf wetness, which allows many fungal and bacterial pathogens to aggressively attack, creating disease outbreaks that are often difficult to control as new infections can occur every night.
5.
Chloramine is a chlorine molecule bonded with an ammonia molecule. This chemical is used in place of chlorine because it lasts longer in the water and won’t bubble out and evaporate like chlorine will.
Nutrients: Beyond Micros and Macros Nutrient supplements aren’t just for humans any more. With 60+ elements found in plants, which ones are your plants not getting enough of?
The Complexities of Defining and Measuring Light Energy Light is light, right? Well, human eyes perceive light as colour, with each shade corresponding to a different wavelength. However, there are also some light waves that have frequencies too high or low for us to see. Light, it seems, is pretty darn complex…
Majestic Tissue Cultivators Discover how this Melbourne-based hydroponic company grows perfect, disease-free plants in their tropical, utopian glasshouse.
Plus: Hydroponic news, tips and trivia; hot new products; exclusive giveaways; Talking Shop and more!
www.maximumyield.com
6. 54
Although some wells are “shocked” with chlorine, generally well water users don’t have to worry as much about chlorine or chloramines—but calcium and magnesium are often found in much higher levels in well water.
Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
Maximum Yield (September/October) will be available in September for free at select indoor gardening retail stores across Australia and New Zealand and on maximumyield.com Subscriptions are available at maximumyield.com/subscriptions and maximumyield.com/digital-subscription
Maximum Yield | July/August 2012
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Maximum Yield Australia | November/December | July/August 2012 2010