Maximum Yield Australia - July/August 2010

WI GRON BIG! WB SE E INSI IG! D

AUSTRALIA July-August 2010

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I N D O O R

G A R D E N I N G

FREE

Cool Toys and Tools for High-Tech Growers D E AN R L A O C TR CON

PARENT PLANTS

L IMA OPTSULTS RE

AEROPONIC CLONING

Indoor gardenING expo indoorgardeningexpo.com www.maximumyield.com

long beach california, usa

october 16-17

SAN FRancisco California, USA

july 24-25

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CONTENTS july / august 2010 FEATURES 22

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Cool Toys and Tools for High-Tech Growers

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The Benefits of Growing Your Own Peppermint

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Keep it Clean: Maintaining your Hydroponic System

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Parent Plants: Care and Control

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Aeroponic Cloning: Cheaper by the Dozen

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What Can You Grow Hydroponically?

Stevia Rebaudiana Bertoni - Part 2

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

by Matt LeBannister

by Grodan

by Trevor Holt

by Susan Slobac

by Noucetta Kehdi

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Understanding and Using Trichoderma Fungi

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Wwoof It

by Donald Lester

by Michael Bloch

DEPARTMENTS 10

From the Editor

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Letters to the Editor

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MaximumYield.com

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Simon Says

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MAX Facts

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Product Spotlight

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You Tell Us - Flairform

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Check Your Growing IQ

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Retail Directory

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Coming up in September/October

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Do You Know?

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FROM THE editor

jessica raymond

Our winter issue of Maximum Yield Australia is meant to inspire you to try a new technique, a new product or both.

We filled every page with select tips and customized tricks for Australian indoor gardeners. We think you’ll be inspired to give beneficials a go, participate in a community garden, attempt aeroponics and clean up your hydro system.

The first three articles exemplify Maximum Yield’s commitment to diversity. What other magazine researches the latest modern technologies to use in the grow room; details the benefits of growing your own peppermint and tells you how to grow your own; and examines motherplant propagation in an easily understandable format? All this and more awaits your hungry eyes. I also recommend you to visit and explore maximumyield.com where you will find hundreds of articles, new giveaways, featured products and high definition videos.

Maximum Yield Now on Your Smartphone!

Connect to MaximumYield.com instantly from your Smartphone with our all-new Quick Response (QR) Code, found on the cover of every issue of Maximum Yield. Simply

This month we welcome you to the 7th Annual San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo held this July 24-25, 2010.

Sunday, July 25th is open to the public.

Check out page 55 in this issue or go to indoorgardenexpo.com for times, directions and more. See you at the show and be sure to stop by the Maximum Yield booth and say hello. *Correction: In the May/June issue of Maximum Yield Australia there was a misprint in Hyalite’s Talking Shop feature. Their phone number is Jessica Raymond, Editor 1-800-4-HYDRO.

editor@maximumyield.com

download your choice of QR software, scan the QR Code and your phone’s browser will automatically launch, redirecting you to www.maximumyield.com

letters to the editor Experimenting Indoors – High Yields the CEA Way I love the articles in Maximum Yield. I will be using Erik Biksa’s experimental CEA (Controlled Environment Agriculture) model detailed in the Jan/Feb 2010 issue of Maximum Yield Australia. This will be an ongoing process. I really like the idea of using the space outside the CEA room to act as a lung. Maximum Yield is doing great work. Your articles are educational and inspiring. I’ve learned a lot from your magazine. Keep up the great work.

Hubert Young

Critical Critique Using Conduc Andrew Taylor’s article “Using to Control Nu tivity trien Conductivity to Control Nutrient Concentratio t n Concentration” (Jan/Feb, March/ Part II April 2010) is riddled with factual inaccuracies, excludes critical information and makes testing nutrient solutions considerably more confusing for the reader.

There are many sections in this article that are simply wrong, such as how to calibrate an EC metre.

A metre should be calibrated per the instrument’s instructions.

Additionally, the choice of using a TDS metre vs. a conductivity metre should be based on what each nutrient company specifically recommends. This article is clearly biased towards the author’s own products. I am very surprised that Maximum Yield would print such a biased, misinforming article.

by Andrew

There is definitely something wrong when we choose fast food over fresh, convenience over health. It shocks and disturbs me to watch a population of “intelligent” individuals destroy what was once pure—that goes for our planet as well as our bodies and minds.

The part that really worries me is that we ignore the answers that are so obviously accessible. My partner recently gave birth to our first child, a daughter. As much as we try to shield her from life’s dangers, we’re not so disillusioned to believe we will always be able to protect her. We’re comforted by the fact that, at least for now, we get to choose what she eats. It’s scary to think that when she’s grown she may not have a healthy option. We grow as much of our own food as we can, which is not enough. When that fails we vote with our money. The way I see it, the imperfections serve as our call to action. I choose to not be a deep-fried couch potato. Now if only I could convince the rest of you.

Sheldon Cohen

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MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

mist for Flair form

It is impor tant to contro l the concen of hydroponic tration nutrients. Burnin or foliage can g of roots occur if levels the concen are too high. tration is too low then deficie If symptoms will occur. ncy The concen tration of nutrie is usually set nts and additiv by the manuf es acturers who recommend volumetric dose instance, four rates of, for to Nutrient labels five teaspoons per gallon . often list dosage terms of both rates in volume and EC. Howev the main inorga er, for nic nutrient, (EC) meter* a conductivity is a helpful dosing *Also includ es cF and TDS aid. meters

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Fast Food for a Fast World

Taylor: Che

MAXIMUM

YIELD USA - March 2010

Rob Samborn Director of sales and marketing HM Digital, Inc.

We appreciate your feedback. Please note that the views expressed herein are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield.

Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

We want to hear from you!

Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

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Coming up on the Web Simon Says Get Growing Connect with Maximum Yield’s new resident expert Simon Hart by clicking on the Simon Says button on maximumyield.com. Submit your growing questions instantly and watch for his reply in the upcoming Simon Says column.

What’s going on?

If you plan on travelling to just one destination this year, head to California, USA for one of two major events planned for the indoor gardening industry.

Join us in San Francisco, CA July 24-25 for 7th Annual Indoor Gardening Expo, aka the biggest expo on the planet, stop in Long Beach, CA October 16-17 or better yet, attend both. Visit www.indoorgardeningexpo.com to view event details.

Get in the Know Are you a subscriber to Maximum Yield’s E-News? You should be, and here’s why: Every month, Maximum Yield mails out our free newsletter full of the latest news, grow tips and upcoming events and more. Enter at http://maximumyield.com/newsletter.php today and get in the know.

Win BIG! Grow BIG! We’re thrilled to announce a new giveaway to win gear to help you grow.

Full prize details are available at www.maximumyield.com/winbigAUS To be chosen as one of four lucky winners enter by August 15, 2010 before midnight.

Connect with Maximum Yield www.maximumyield.com www.facebook.com/MaximumYield www.indoorgardeningexpo.com

Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you.

contributors

G A R D E N I N G

VOLUME 8 – NUMBER 2 JULY/AUGUST 2010 PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092 PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Gaby Morin - gaby@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com Daniel Peters - daniel@maximumyield.com Nicole Tennison - nicole@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Canna Dome Garden Supply Futchatec Growth Technology Holland Forge Hydrogarden Hydraspher UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS BWGS East BWGS West General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds

Noucetta Kehdi is the co-founder and administrator of General Hydroponics in Europe. Noucetta got involved in hydroponics in the early 1990s and in 1996 she moved to the southwest of France where she took care of a greenhouse educating herself on all things hydroponics.

Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007.

Trevor Holt is the owner of Sydney-

Donald Lester is the plant products

Michael Bloch is the owner and

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.

manager at JH Biotech, Inc., a California based agricultural technology company with 27 OMRI certified products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with an emphasis in entomology. He is an agricultural scientist with over 10 years of research experience and 50 scientific publications to his credit.

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MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

editor of GreenLivingTips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy. The site offers a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment-related news to help consumers and businesses reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact.

based Hydro Masta Pty Ltd. He has over 20 years of experience in the hydroponics industry. Their website (www.hydromasta.com.au) contains a full library of hydroponic help tips and ideas, plus their online store of over 800 quality products.

Email sales@hydromasta.com.au

Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

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SIMON says

Hi Simon, I’ve noticed references in several articles to bio-filters being used with hydroponic systems, and how they can provide stability for water cultures. I’m very much into DWC systems, and would love more information on this equipment. Could you point me in the right direction as far as reliable manufacturers and information? Also, how would these differ from a bio-filter for an aquarium?

Faron

In a Deep Water Culture (DWC) system, a net pot rests inside a larger water-filled bucket. The plant’s roots are suspended in the nutrient-rich water, which is oxygenated with an air stone, for example. The void between the basket and the water surface increases oxygen to the roots. However, pathogens can spread rapidly between plants if a common reservoir is used.

A (biologically active) bio-filter removes or introduces different organic compounds or organisms into a water based system. In an aquarium, bio-filters remove certain elemental compounds, such as nitrates and phosphates, with the use of specific bacteria.

This important mechanism prevents algae blooms from accumulating in the tank, helps fish evade health problems and restores system balance.

Aquaponic bio-filters are slightly different because in this case the hydroponic garden is used as the filtering system. The plants use organic compounds in the waste water as nutrients prior to being recirculating into the fish farming component of the system. Again the purpose is to decrease the accumulation of unwanted nutrients.

Hydroponic bio-filters are quite different, controlling pathogenic organisms from proliferating and harming the plants, particularly in a recirculating DWC system. A more involved option would be developing a filter for the secretion of specific organic acids and growth regulating substances.

The substrate used in the filter is the key to success. Initially bio-filters in hydroponics were based on sand (a physical filter).

The use of micro-organisms increased the benefits but also changed the material used in the filter. The key property is usable surface area. Remember, as organic material or sediment passes over the material it can clog it. Passage diameter (open spaces) is very important. Material could include aquarium products like biological media. Porous materials such as rinsed lava rock, diatom chunks or lassenite provide a higher initial surface area. A pre-filter layer at the top of your bio-filter would be beneficial to clean out some particulate prior to moving through the bio-filter substrate.

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You must inoculate your filter with diverse biology. Include some powdered or liquid inoculants with different bacteria and fungi. Consider the use of a quality aerobic compost tea, which will be more microbially-diverse than available inoculants. Sending your solution into a lab for analysis gives you a specific look at the microbial population, and demonstrates which products to reapply based on their success or failure to colonize the bio-filter system, saving you money in the long term.

Remember that as microbes secrete organic acids and enzymes, pH fluctuation can occur and can stabilize at a different value than you are used to in a sterile water system. Don’t be scared of this drift as it should stabilize and is unlikely to affect nutrient availability.

Applied biology must be kept alive with organic matter. Plant roots will slough off some organic material from the rhizosphere but additional components in your solution can help. Consider kelp extracts and humates. I would experiment with insoluble granular humates within the filter as a source of microbial feedstock. This would help you avoid some of the issue related to excessive organic compounds within the water system such as foaming and particulate build-up.

Good luck in your garden.

Simon Hart

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Do you have a question for Simon?

Send it to simon@maximumyield.com with the words “Simon Says” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia from around the world

Growers Can Boost Benefits of Broccoli and Tomatoes A university study has demonstrated that agronomic practices can greatly increase the cancer-preventive phytochemicals in broccoli and tomatoes. The highest levels of detoxifying enzymes were found in rats that ate seleniumtreated broccoli. The amount of one of the cancer-fighting compounds in broccoli was six times higher in selenium-enriched broccoli than in standard broccoli powder.

Selenium-treated broccoli was also most active in the liver, reaching a level of bioactivity that exceeded the other foods used in the experiment. Broccoli and other plants of the brassica family are unique in having a methylating enzyme that enables plants to store high concentrations of selenium.

In a previous study, tomato and broccoli powders eaten together were found to be more effective in slowing prostate cancer in laboratory rats than either tomato or broccoli alone. In their current research, they are experimenting with ways to increase the bioactive components in these foods in order to test the efficacy of enriched broccoli and tomatoes in a new prostate cancer study.

(Source: www.sciencedaily.com)

Eating Dirt: The Latest Culinary Trend Anyone who has grimaced as they bite down on sandy lettuce may find this one perplexing.

But eating dirt is the latest thing in restaurants around the world. It seems some chefs are so keen on communing with the soil that they are putting it in their dishes deliberately.

Some chefs are creating imitation dirt from ingredients like dehydrated beets, or crushed dried-mushrooms. But others are using high tech devices like the Rotavapor—more commonly used in the perfume industry—to distill soil, the essence of which is used to create an earthy foam. The trend isn’t just confined to chefs—installation artist Laura Parker asks gallery goers to sniff soil samples, and then taste vegetables that were grown in that soil.

(Source: www.treehugger.com)

Little Gardeners, Big Tastebuds _______________________ Children who grow their own fruit and vegetables are more likely to try new foods, a study shows. Its findings are based on an evaluation of renowned chef Stephanie Alexander’s Kitchen Garden Program. The program encourages schools to grow their own produce, learn about healthy eating and prepare nutritious meals.

The study, carried out over two years by the University of Melbourne and Deakin University, showed that of children who participated in the program, more than one in three (39 per cent) were more willing to try new foods, compared with about one in four (26 per cent) at the start of the program.

It also found 71 per cent of children in participating schools reported they enjoyed cooking, compared with just 50 per cent at non-participating schools.

(Source: www.adelaidenow.com.au)

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Seed Bomb Vending Machines ____________

No Food Waste Allowed at This Aussie Restaurant ______________ If you’re eating at an Australian restaurant called Wafu outside of Sydney, you better finish your plate—or pay a fine and not return. Chef Yukako Ichikawa is tired of the food waste people leave on their plates and the environmental impact, however unintentional, it all leaves behind.

Wafu, a restaurant for “guilty free Japanese cuisine,” now gives a 30 per cent discount to customers who eat all the food they order. Wafu makes its ethos pretty clear every step of the way, starting with its website, www.wafu.com.au.

It may sound like a stretch to some, but considering that an estimated $48.2 billion of food goes to waste in the U.S. alone (which translates to between 30 and 40 per cent of our food); that food makes up the third largest waste stream in the U.S.; and that 300 million barrels of oil are wasted along with all that food, the world could do with a lot more restaurants (and homes) that prohibit food waste the way Wafu does.

(Source: http://planetgreen.discovery.com)

Planting the Seeds of Learning With record levels of childhood obesity and poor nutrition, an increasing issue among Australian children, it has never been more critical to take active steps in educating young people about the importance of eating the right food for a healthy lifestyle and environment, according to the Biological Farmers of Australia (BFA).

In response to requests from teachers and parents, the BFA has released a free resource, the BFA Organic School Gardens Program, featuring practical and easy-to-use online resources and lesson plans. The first of its kind in Australia, the program is available to all Australian primary schools as a free online resource for teachers and students.

Beloved by guerrilla gardeners everywhere, these little balls made from clay, compost and seeds are the secret weapons to transforming barren and neglected urban corners into colourful spaces of living greenery.

Quarter-operated, fire-engine red candy machines have been designed that dispense custom-made seed bombs tailored for your local neighbourhood’s ecology. This public awareness campaign also serves as a lucrative fundraising tool.

Schools, businesses and individuals can purchase any number of these machines to assist in developing a “strategic neighbourhood intervention plan” specifically adapted for your area and they will continue to supply the seed bombs.

Seed bomb machines are already a hit in some parts of the world. It’s an original way of repackaging guerrilla gardening for the masses so that even kids can get in on the game.

(Source: http://thecommonstudio.com)

Kerala Starts 10 Year Conversion to All-Organic Farming ___________________ The southern Indian state of Kerala has officially announced a new farming policy that aims to covert all agriculture in the state to organic methods over the next 10 years. In the first phase 30,000 hectares will be converted.

There is need for ensuring organic farming approach in all the watershed development areas and extend support.

Facilitating the transition, the policy highlights the need to provide interest-free loans to small and marginal farmers.

The Kerala Agriculture University and other research institutions should develop suitable crop combinations and locally suitable technology through participatory research with the farmers. The policy calls for ensuring the availability of biomass in the organic farm itself, through programs such as crop rotation, tree crops, cover crops, leguminous crops and green manure.

Separate and decentralized storage facilities for farm produces have to be established to protect their organic integrity and help the farmers in certification processes. A State-led insurance scheme for small and marginal farmers may also be introduced.

(Source: www.thehindubusinessline.com)

MY

(Source: www.organicschools.com.au)

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PRODUCT spotlight

See it. Want it. Find it at your favourite indoor gardening shop.

Grow Bigger, Grow Better _______________

TopMax Goes Organic __________________

The Wilma 9 features bigger plant spacing, which allows you to grow big. The 18 litre pots allow for increased root mass and the 1.2 square metre system fits the Wilma Tent perfectly. Set up is effortless and automatic feeding means you save hours of work. Drainage is excellent no matter which medium is used. Maintenance and monitoring of nutrient solution is simplified thanks to easy pump access.

High quality reusable pots are the ideal size. The selfcontained system greatly reduces chance of leakage. Visit your local hydroponics retailer to learn more.

TopMax is a 100 per cent organic flowering strengthener that dramatically increases the size and weight of floral clusters, leaving a sweet taste in the finished product.

TopMax uses humic and fulvic acids to assist in the flow of nutrients. The main source of humic acid is a deposit called Leonardite that comes from trees and vegetation that grew 300 million years ago. Fulvic acid is reclaimed from humate deposits and contains a natural electrical charge that attracts nutrients and minerals. Visit your favourite indoor gardening retailer to learn more.

Hydroponic Bloom Stimulator Bud Boost ____________________________ Cash Crop’s Bud Boost consists of organic seaweed, kelp, 18 different amino acids and potassium, a key ingredient in improving a plant’s bloom during growth. Bud Boost is formulated in order to stimulate a plant during the bloom phase for higher yields and better quality. Bud Boost is specifically formulated to help hydroponic plants increase resistance to any threats—pests, disease or otherwise. Bud Boost increases a plant’s natural oils and resin and improves the flavour and aroma of your plants. Look for Bud Boost in the new orange bottle at your local hydro shop.

Odor Problems Are in the Bag _______________________________________ Ultra light Odor Sok air filters use fibre carbon technology and weigh less than two kilograms. These durable filters provide effective air filtration for up to 12 months. Can be assembled in less than two minutes and are perfect for inlet and outlet filtration. Odor Soks fit all manufacturers’ fans. The new and improved construction features latex coated seams. Available in a variety of sizes.

Ask for the Odor Sok at your local indoor gardening store.

House & Garden Foliar Spray ___________________________________________ House & Garden Foliar Spray is an effective and concentrated product that provides a boost for motherplants and rooted and unrooted cuttings. It is absorbed directly by the leaves and gives plants back their dark green colour and vitality. Foliar spray is a gentle plant agent and works within two days. Foliar Spray is a 100 per cent biological plant booster that protects the plant against external threats from insects and mould. Foliar spray also enhances the plant’s natural balance and promotes lush growth. Foliar Spray contains all main and trace elements. Available at all good hydroponic retailers.

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The Perfect Light/Reflector Combo ________ The Max-Light has been designed specifically to deliver maximum light to where it’s needed most. The fully enclosed hammertone shade ensures the highest reflectivity, while the deep enclosed shade design creates intense penetrating light, ideal for smaller areas. Philips new Ecotone High Output 80 watt CFL lamp is super power efficient and delivers more lumens than 250 watt CFLs. The coiled design ensures that light can escape from all areas of the lamp. The Philips Ecotone also has a built-in air pump for longer, brighter lamp life. The Max Light reflector/Philips Ecotone is the perfect combo for any grower looking to use lower wattage lamps and brightly illuminate small areas with little heat. Visit your favourite hydro shop for information.

Keep Freshness and Flavour In ___________ Zip-Zag Bags have taken the term resealable to a whole new level. Zip Zag has been working on preventing leakage at a molecular level and has achieved amazing results. When you’re losing aroma, you’re losing flavour, plus oxygen is getting in and oxidizing sensitive oils. The oxygen transfer rate of Zip Zag Bags is up to 450 times less than that of the leading zipper locking bag making them completely odor and leak proof! Zip-Zag Bags are great for herbs, opened pesticides, herbicides, fungicides and other chemicals. Visit your local hydro shop for information on Zip Zag Bags.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

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PRODUCT spotlight

See it. Want it. Find it at your favourite indoor gardening shop.

AminoGrow Stimulator for Explosive Results __________________ Cash Crop AminoGrow stimulates leaf, stem, root and enzyme production, which in turn stimulates faster and healthier growth in young plants. AminoGrow consists of organic seaweed, kelp, nitrogen and 18 different organic based amino acids. The levels of nitrogen and other key nutrients are vital to ensure your plants don’t suffer from poor yields or yellow leaves (a sign of nitrogen deficiency). AminoGrow is the ideal choice for growers keen on improving their hydroponically grown crops, achieving faster and healthier growth for their plants. Ask your favourite hydro retailer for AminoGrow in the new orange bottle today.

Algen Extract – Concentrated Help from the Sea ___________________ Coming soon to Australia is House & Garden’s Algen Extract, a concentrated solution of cold pressed Norwegian Sea Kelp. Micronutrients, microbiology and macronutrients are all present in Algen Extract.

Algen Extract can be used with rooted cuttings, works great as a foliar application and is an awesome tonic for the rhizosphere. It ensures better leaf colour and stimulates the formation of root hairs leading the increased uptake of various trace elements. Algen Extract can also be used as a leaf wash. Keep an eye out for Algen Extract, coming soon to a hydro store near you.

Can-Filters Back-Draft Shutters Now Available in Australia ________________________________ Like all Can-Filter products the Back-Draft Shutters are manufactured to the highest standard using only quality components and precision engineering. Back Draft Shutters are used to prevent air from reverse flowing through the intake fan when it is powered off to stop the release of unwanted odours and unwanted light from entering the growing area during lights off period. Visit your nearest hydro retailer for the full range of Can-Filter products.

House & Garden Hydro A&B Base Nutrients ______________________ House & Garden Hydro A&B base nutrients are an absolute must-have for all gardeners. The smart composition of the various elements ensures optimal nourishment of plants in the grow and the flowering period. Hydro A&B nutrients are composed of liquid main and trace elements and contain no bulking agents. Composed of the purest high-quality nutrients, including Eddha-Fe (iron). This enables the plant to absorb the nutrients fast and effectively.

House & Garden Hydro A&B nutrients are used for recirculating or run to waste systems using perlite, rockwool, clayballs and various other substrates. Ask for these products at your local hydro store.

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MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

Full Flowering with Intense Penetration ___ The spectral outputs from Hydro Grow’s Penetrator LED Grow Lights match all four chlorophyll absorption peaks required for photosynthesis, guaranteeing the highest possible conversion rate from electrical energy to plant energy, with little to no energy wasted.

Our products deliver this light efficiently by using a unique 60° lens.

Our lens distributes light at four times the intensity, which enables full penetration.

Our LED Grow Lights are proven to be at least 60 per cent more efficient when compared with HIDs, and up to 70 per cent more efficient than our competitors’ LEDs. Visit your favourite hydroponics retailer for more information.

Award Winning Reflective Foils ___________ Easy Grow Ltd. is proud to announce the creation of 25 and 50 foot rolls of their famous food grade, reflective foils in Lightite and Eco. The Diamond Diffusion and Silver/White Lightite foils are over five millimetres thick and the Eco foils are three millimetres thick. All Easy Grow foils offer the same guarantee of non-gassing, food grade material with only clean virgin (non-recycled) polymers used in the production process. For more information visit an indoor gardening shop.

MY

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

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Cool Toys and Tools

for High-Tech Growers

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

Humans love gadgets. The widespread use of iPods, iPhones and Blackberries are testament to this so why should hightech horticulture be any different? There is a wide range of exciting and useful tools, metres and instruments designed for horticultural applications that not only provide valuable, educational information but are also fun. While it may seem that high-tech grower gadgets are out of the budget range for many of us and only used for advanced research projects in university labs, in reality there are some toys and tools that won’t break the bank. Most of us know how to handle an EC or TDS metre and have a basic awareness of the range of methods used to measure pH on a small scale, but there are many more plant and environmental parameters that could be tested, quantified and adjusted to give even better plant performance. Tools exist to test and measure just about every plant variable from CO2, dissolved oxygen in the nutrient, surface temperature, sugar levels in plant material, individual elements in the nutrient solution, chlorophyll content of the foliage, PAR light, media moisture levels, peroxide levels, vapour pressure deficit, even entire plant photosynthesis, among others. There are also nutrient calculators and nutrient formulation software on the market for those who are into nutrient fine-tuning.

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IPM Scope – Digital IPM camera and hand held microscope This is a really great toy for checking the fine details of what’s happening at the plant level. Much of what goes on at the leaf surface is smaller than we can easily see and a whole other `micro-world’ exists that is truly fascinating to view close up. This type of digital microscope is particularly useful for growers who have problems seeing the early signs of pests and disease on leaf surfaces and for classroom hydroponics and science fair projects. Microscopes are commonly used for magnifying small insects, plant diseases and other plant disorders, however, this version goes one step further combining a digital movie camera, built in LED lighting and precision options in a small hand-held microscope. This gives 40 to140 times magnification so the fine details can be easily seen on a computer screen then captured as images or movies.

photo by Spectrum Technologies

“Microscopes are commonly used for magnifying small insects, plant diseases and other plant disorders.”

The IPM Scope – a hand held microscope and camera that links to a computer for full screen images.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

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Cool Toys and Tools for High-Tech Growers

“Brix is a reliable measure of fruit quality and flavour (sweetness) in many common hydroponic crops such as tomatoes, strawberries, capsicum and melons.� of 0.2 per cent and measures in increments of 0.1 per cent. For smaller growers brix metres are a highly useful tool where improvements in the growing system, cultivar or nutrition are being carried out to raise the quality of the crops being grown. Brix or sugar levels in

The electronic brix metre may be more expensive than the old manual types but the accuracy and speed of readings make it worthwhile.

Brix metres for measuring sugar levels in hydroponic fruits and vegetables are an essential tool for many growers.

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MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

many fruits and vegetables are also highly dependant on a number of factors such as light levels, EC, nutrition, cultivar, temperature and plant health.

Being able to measure brix from one crop to the next can give definitive evidence that plant quality is improving. It’s also interesting to measure the brix of different samples of tomatoes and other fruit and then see if taste tests can actually pick up on the same differences in sweetness.

photo: Spectrum Technologies

Pocket digital refractometer or brix metre Refractometers, also known as brix or total soluble solids metres, have been used in horticulture for many decades. Hand held brix metres are most commonly used in the wine industry to determine when sugar levels in grapes are high enough to harvest. However, many other industries use refractometers to gauge crop maturity and food quality. Brix metres can be one of the most useful tools for fruit and vegetable assessment if used correctly. Refractometers range in cost, the most inexpensive being the older manual styles to the most expensive digital hand held refractometers that fit in your pocket and give a reading in seconds.

Brix is a reliable measure of fruit quality and flavour (sweetness) in many common hydroponic crops such as tomatoes, strawberries, capsicum and melons.

Commercial growers, in particular, should know how to use a refractometer. They should also know how the values of brix relate to fruit quality and flavour in their crops. The problem with the old manual brix metres has always been the scale, which needs to be read by eye; it can be difficult to get a high degree of accuracy between samples that are relatively close in brix levels. The digital refractometer has an accuracy

Chlorophyll metres Chlorophyll metres are not necessarily standard hydroponic gadgets, but they can be fun, in some cases providing very valuable information.

Chlorophyll metres give an indication of plant health and stress before growth becomes adversely affected. Thus they are potentially a useful tool for hydroponic growers who would like to know if their plants are starting to suffer some stress long before potentially fatal symptoms—such as wilting— become more visible. There are a number of models of chlorophyll metres on the market, from simple versions to the high-tech, integrated data-logging models. Chlorophyll content is instantly measured by clamping a sensor over a leaf and receiving an indexed chlorophyll content reading. Good quality, high-tech chlorophyll metres are not only a useful crop diagnostic tool, but also a great learning tool for classroom experiments and student projects.

“Chlorophyll metres give an indication of plant health and stress before growth becomes adversely affected.”

Chlorophyll content of a crop’s foliage is a gauge of health and can be used as a disease diagnostic tool.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

25

Cool Toys and Tools for High-Tech Growers

largely obtain oxygen from air filled pores in the growing media; in this case a moisture metre is a great tool as it lets the grower determine how saturated the substrate surrounding the roots is and gives a guide on how often to water. A highly saturated substrate doesn’t hold as much air inside its pore structure as water fills all the available pores and displaces the essential oxygen supply to the roots.

On the other hand a substrate holding very little moisture means the plant An infrared thermometer can be used to determine if leaves are actively transpiring or have shut their stomata.

Infrared thermometer Infrared thermometers are perhaps the simplest and often least expensive tools a small hydroponic grower can purchase.They provide particularly valuable data and can even determine when a plant has become stressed to the point where it has stopped transpiring. Infrared thermometers are also the easiest and straightforward of all the tools to use and they have extra uses around the home as well. Infrared thermometers are in widespread use in the food industry.

They are used to non-destructively gauge food temperatures to ensure proper storage.

These gadgets operate by shining an infrared beam of light onto the surface of an object, or in the case of nutrient solutions, a liquid.The temperature of the surface of that object is then recorded and displayed in either Fahrenheit or Celsius on the metre’s digital display.

In hydroponics, this surface temperature reading is important for foliage. The leaf or canopy temperature in a healthy plant usually differs from the air temperature and so should be checked, particularly 26

under warm or high light conditions.

Plants’ leaves transpire, cooling themselves in the process. A healthy, actively photosynthesizing crop will have a leaf temperature that is close to or slightly lower than that of the surrounding air. A crop that has become stressed and shut down with closed stomata will have a leaf temperature above that of the air temperature and eventually it will begin to wilt. Under these conditions the leaf is also not photosynthesizing. The objective of measuring the leaf temperature with a non-destructive infrared thermometer is to assess plant stress and prevent plants from shutting down during the day due to heat, humidity or other disorders.

Infrared readings can also be taken of the nutrient solution at any point in a hydroponic system and are also great for checking solution temperatures in NFT channels, deep flow systems, aeroponics, raft systems or nutrient reservoirs.

Dissolved Oxygen (DO) metres and moisture metres Dissolved oxygen metres are perhaps more useful for those using solution culture systems such as NFT or deep flow systems where the plants are somewhat reliant on the oxygen dissolved in the nutrient solution. Media based systems are a little different as plants

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

“The leaf or canopy temperature in a healthy plant usually differs from the air temperature and so should be checked, particularly under warm or high light conditions.” struggles to take up sufficient water and wilting can rapidly result. Having a good quality moisture metre, one designed specifically for use with soilless media, is a great tool for those struggling with irrigation programs and continual over or underwatering. Specific moisture metres are available for use with rockwool slabs, although the cost of this usually means it is only used by large scale commercial growers with computer integrated irrigation systems.

Dissolved oxygen metres come in hand held models which can be used to directly measure the DO of a solution.

Cool Toys and Tools for High-Tech Growers

Dissolved oxygen metres are useful for any one with a nutrient reservoir. They can be used to gauge the dissolved oxygen level of the solution irrigated out to plants, or the DO level in the leachate of recirculating systems. Measuring the dissolved oxygen level is extremely valuable for anyone using microbial or organic additives in their nutrient solution as both these can lead to oxygen depletion if not used correctly at the right dose.

Continuous verification of oxygen levels in the nutrient is advised for growers who regularly incorporate these sorts of products.

Dissolved oxygen in solution is naturally only present at low levels. Oxygen is not very soluble in water, and the DO level is dependant on temperature. While a cooler solution may hold as much as 12 to 13 ppm of DO, a warm solution may hold as little as six to seven ppm. This combined with the fact that under warm growing conditions with rapid development, a large plant root system has a rather high oxygen requirement for respiration, we can see how important replacing DO in the nutrient and growing media can be.

As with EC, ppm and pH metres, dissolved oxygen metres have come a long way since the early days of large, lab-based machines. Now oxygen can be measured on-site, which is important since the DO levels can be influenced by taking samples and transporting these for measurement elsewhere.

Hand held, easy to use and highly accurate dissolved oxygen metres not only measure DO but also percentage saturation at the current temperature of the solution, which is a useful tool for growers trying different methods of getting more oxygen into the solution.

Of course the list of tools, metres and gadgets designed for horticultural use is far more extensive than is covered here and there are some highly advanced systems for measurement of plant photosynthesis, individual nutrient elements and biomass production. However, in terms of small useful gadgets that can tell us something about our plant’s state of health, environment and productivity and allow decisions to be made that benefit growth, the five MY mentioned above are worth the investment.

Sources: Hanna Instruments (www.hannainst.com/usa) Spectrum Technologies Inc. (www.specmeters.com) Decagon Devices (www.decagon.com)

A list of additional fun tools and technologies for hydroponics are detailed on maximumyield.com

28

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

The Benefits of Growing

Your Own Peppermint

by Matt LeBannister

Of all the medicinal herbs in the world, peppermint (Mentha piperita) has probably been in use the longest. Archaeological evidence suggests peppermint was used in medicine as early as 10,000 years ago. It is used as a tea and for flavouring in ice cream. Peppermint is also a common ingredient in cold vapour rubs, cosmetics and many other products.

This medicinal herb is easy to grow and has many health benefits.

The active ingredient menthol can help stomach and digestive problems when consumed, and can help with skin problems when applied topically. Mint leaves can be dried and stored for use in the future, making it an ideal plant for the indoor garden.

The main medicinal use of peppermint is to treat mild to moderate digestive problems. Drinking peppermint tea is an effective and delicious way to deliver the medicinal ingredient to your stomach and digestive track. The menthol has been known to calm stomach problems and improve the flow of bile.

This will help alleviate gas and bloating and improve digestion.

It is also known to reduce symptoms of nausea and diarrhea.

Peppermint can also be helpful to people who suffer from I.B.S. (Irritable Bowel Syndrome). In this instance peppermint oil is in enteric-coated capsules so that they dissolve in the small intestine and not in the stomach, ensuring its effectiveness to the area in need.

According to university research, “One study comparing enteric-coated peppermint oil capsules to placebo in children

with I.B.S. found that after two weeks, 75 per cent of those treated had reduced symptoms. A similar study of adults found that 79 per cent of those receiving peppermint had less severe pain than those who had received the placebo.�

Peppermint can also be used as a topical medicine to relieve various skin problems. The leaves of the plant can be rubbed on the affected area to provide some comfort from the itchiness of hives, poison ivy and poison oak. The menthol in the leaves will have a cooling effect on the skin. Rubbing anything on one’s skin must be done with caution. Try rubbing it on a small section of skin first to make sure there is no allergic reaction before exposing anywhere else.

Peppermint can be easily grown in any home. Mint thrives in bright places but in indirect sunlight. Florescent lights are suitable for this if the natural conditions are not ideal. Try using organic nutrients for the best flavour.

The leaves and young flowers of the peppermint plant are the parts that are to be used and harvested. These can be used fresh or can be dried and stored for future use.

Peppermint is one of the longest used medicinal herbs for a reason. As someone who has survived rectal cancer but lives with constant bowel problems, I drink at least one cup of peppermint tea a day. Peppermint is the perfect plant for the indoor herb garden whether it is grown for its medicinal MY properties, or simply its taste and smell.

Source: www.umm/altmed/article/peppermint-000269.htm

30

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

31

Keep it Clean:

by Grodan

Maintaining your Hydroponic System

Always cut off dead leaves and remove them from the grow room. Decaying organic matter attracts fungus gnats.You should also remove diseased plants, so the infection does not spread. Clean the plant box well with a 10 per cent bleach solution before putting it back in the grow room. When you change water in your stock tank, wash the tank well with a 10 per cent bleach solution.

If you use big trays for your blocks and slabs consider washing these too, especially if you have had a problem with root rot.

Drippers If you use a drip system buy a few extra drippers, so you can change them if any are clogged up. Have a bucket with vinegar in your grow room and throw the clogged drippers in, so they will be clean and ready to use next time you need to change a dripper.

Ebb/flood systems We recommend that you spend an extra couple of dollars and get a timer that can be set at five minute intervals, so a full cycle will only soak the stonewool for 10 minutes. To avoid salt build up we suggest that you top water your plants once per week.

Also be sure to have a tray with deep enough grooves so that water drains away from the cubes/slabs.

EC and pH The EC level (nutrient concentration) varies depending on the plant stage or how fast your plant is growing. Soil/peat has a buffer and not all you put in is available to the plant.

One to two hours before planting, don’t forget to saturate the stonewool with pH 5.5 water. Never go below pH 5.0 or the stonewool may be damaged! Below pH 5.0 and higher than pH 7.0 the plant cannot readily take up nutrient.

Immediately before planting flush the stonewool with your 32

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

nutrient solution.

Drain to waste!

And then put the stonewool product in your system.

Once the plant starts growing the pH in the tank and in the medium will go up. It is a natural response; it means your plant is growing!

Stock tank solution We recommend that you completely change the solution once a week.Yes, you can top up the tank and adjust EC/pH, but your solution may be out of vital micro-nutrients or be infected with pythium (root rot). If your stock tank contains ready to use (diluted) nutrient solution, please use phosphoric acid (or lemon juice) as pH down. If you have a fertilizer injector connected to a tank with concentrated solution, it is better to use sulphuric acid as pH down.

Learn from yourself Consider keeping a journal that lists: the EC, pH, temperature, CO2 and light level each day.

This way you can learn from your own mistakes and successes. Records like this also make it a lot easier for the shop to answer your questions when you have a problem.

Check the basics Before you blame your plant food for unhappy plants, check your journal. Everything must be in balance. Change one parameter at a time and look for the effect. A common problem is stock water that is too cold. Consider putting a

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Growing Tips Secrets to Success How to get larger yields Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 1

17/06/10 10:30 AM

QUALITY PROVES ITSELF! From the beginning, CANNA®, a Dutch company, has been synonymous with the highest quality nutritional products and growing media available thanks to our relentless scientific research driven philosophy. This is why it’s not surprising that CANNA® is the world market leader in plant technologies for fast growing plants.

Research first and then grow Growing using the Terra ® system from CANNA® is very productive and profitable. Countless growers worldwide make money and enjoy their work. However, it is easy to make mistakes that cost time and money. This Infopaper is all about CANNA® Terra ®, Holland’s No.1 grow system for home growers. In this special report, we’re going to tell you about some of the major errors growers make and how to avoid them. We will start by looking at how peat, the major ingredient of Terra ® Professional, is made, the structure and the different types of peat. On top of this we will give you some valuable tips to irrigate correctly, start seedlings and increase your yield using CANNA® Terra ®,.

CANNA® crafts all of its products in Holland to meet the needs of plants cultivated under different circumstances. In this way the best results can be achieved regardless of the cultivation system or level of production used.

Plants require that the same nutritional elements be available regardless of the growing medium used. Cultivation systems also have a considerable influence on the availability of these nutritional elements. Rockwool, for example, does not contain any nutritional elements or the ability to store them, whereas coco both absorbs and supplies nutritional elements to the nutrient solution. It is for these and many more reasons plants need different compositions of nutrients under different growing conditions.

CANNA® has logically developed different ranges of nutrients for each specific cultivation system. CANNA’s products are well known for high yields, purity of the raw materials, user friendliness and our unrivalled concern for the health of the grower and consumer.

Our cornerstones - VEGA® and FLORES® On CANNA’s nutrient bottles, one usually comes across the terms ‘Vega®’ or ‘Flores®’. These terms indicate in which developmental phase of the plant to use the nutrients.

VEGA® is for the plant’s vegetative or growing phase. During this phase, the plant develops its roots, stems and foliage. A fast start, healthy root structure and powerful shoots are essential for optimum results.

FLORES® is for the blooming phase. During this phase, the plant’s nutritional requirements change, for example from needing high Nitrogen to a demand for more Phosphorous. Flores® products will generate the highest yield possible because the specially formulated nutritional elements are specially designed for this phase.

2 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 2-3

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au

Not all soilless mediums are suitable for cultivating short cycle crops!

O

ne of the biggest mistakes growers make is to start cultivating plants before they have learnt how to grow plants.

They have not done their research.

They assume that growing plants in hydroponics is easy. It is definitely not that easy. Cultivating hydroponically means to grow without soil. That is why quality nutrients are essential.

It is not easy to grow in traditional hydroponics without first doing your research. If you do not have all the skills, information and time to learn how to grow plants in complex hydroponic systems, it might be best to grow using the CANNA® Terra ® system. Growing in the Terra ® system is easier than growing in complicated hydroponics however, Terra ® gardens still give you dynamic growth and

www.canna.com.au

extraordinary yield. Your yields will not suffer using Terra ®.

Growing on Terra® is very productive and profitable. It’s Holland’s No.1 selling system for home growers.

Before we enter into a detailed explanation about the Terra ® Professional growing media, we should make one thing clear - not all growing media (substrates) are suitable for cultivating short cycle crops. Three important factors should

Infopaper

be taken into consideration - structure, pre-fertilisation and pH. Good pre-fertilisation and pH are of vital importance for a successful harvest.

Peat, stonewool and cocopeat are the three most important growing media for fast growing plants. The big advantage that peat has is that it is a very easy growing medium to work with.

Peat is first and foremost a natural product which accounts for its great popularity with organic and home growers alike. Additionally, when it is used in combination with CANNA® Terra ® nutrients there are almost no residues left in the medium which means that it can subsequently be used as a soil improver in an environmentally friendly way without any problems at all.

3 17/06/10 10:31 AM

QUALITY PROVES ITSELF! From the beginning, CANNA®, a Dutch company, has been synonymous with the highest quality nutritional products and growing media available thanks to our relentless scientific research driven philosophy. This is why it’s not surprising that CANNA® is the world market leader in plant technologies for fast growing plants.

Research first and then grow Growing using the Terra ® system from CANNA® is very productive and profitable. Countless growers worldwide make money and enjoy their work. However, it is easy to make mistakes that cost time and money. This Infopaper is all about CANNA® Terra ®, Holland’s No.1 grow system for home growers. In this special report, we’re going to tell you about some of the major errors growers make and how to avoid them. We will start by looking at how peat, the major ingredient of Terra ® Professional, is made, the structure and the different types of peat. On top of this we will give you some valuable tips to irrigate correctly, start seedlings and increase your yield using CANNA® Terra ®,.

CANNA® crafts all of its products in Holland to meet the needs of plants cultivated under different circumstances. In this way the best results can be achieved regardless of the cultivation system or level of production used.

Plants require that the same nutritional elements be available regardless of the growing medium used. Cultivation systems also have a considerable influence on the availability of these nutritional elements. Rockwool, for example, does not contain any nutritional elements or the ability to store them, whereas coco both absorbs and supplies nutritional elements to the nutrient solution. It is for these and many more reasons plants need different compositions of nutrients under different growing conditions.

CANNA® has logically developed different ranges of nutrients for each specific cultivation system. CANNA’s products are well known for high yields, purity of the raw materials, user friendliness and our unrivalled concern for the health of the grower and consumer.

Our cornerstones - VEGA® and FLORES® On CANNA’s nutrient bottles, one usually comes across the terms ‘Vega®’ or ‘Flores®’. These terms indicate in which developmental phase of the plant to use the nutrients.

VEGA® is for the plant’s vegetative or growing phase. During this phase, the plant develops its roots, stems and foliage. A fast start, healthy root structure and powerful shoots are essential for optimum results.

FLORES® is for the blooming phase. During this phase, the plant’s nutritional requirements change, for example from needing high Nitrogen to a demand for more Phosphorous. Flores® products will generate the highest yield possible because the specially formulated nutritional elements are specially designed for this phase.

2 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 2-3

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au

Not all soilless mediums are suitable for cultivating short cycle crops!

O

ne of the biggest mistakes growers make is to start cultivating plants before they have learnt how to grow plants.

They have not done their research.

They assume that growing plants in hydroponics is easy. It is definitely not that easy. Cultivating hydroponically means to grow without soil. That is why quality nutrients are essential.

It is not easy to grow in traditional hydroponics without first doing your research. If you do not have all the skills, information and time to learn how to grow plants in complex hydroponic systems, it might be best to grow using the CANNA® Terra ® system. Growing in the Terra ® system is easier than growing in complicated hydroponics however, Terra ® gardens still give you dynamic growth and

www.canna.com.au

extraordinary yield. Your yields will not suffer using Terra ®.

Growing on Terra® is very productive and profitable. It’s Holland’s No.1 selling system for home growers.

Before we enter into a detailed explanation about the Terra ® Professional growing media, we should make one thing clear - not all growing media (substrates) are suitable for cultivating short cycle crops. Three important factors should

Infopaper

be taken into consideration - structure, pre-fertilisation and pH. Good pre-fertilisation and pH are of vital importance for a successful harvest.

Peat, stonewool and cocopeat are the three most important growing media for fast growing plants. The big advantage that peat has is that it is a very easy growing medium to work with.

Peat is first and foremost a natural product which accounts for its great popularity with organic and home growers alike. Additionally, when it is used in combination with CANNA® Terra ® nutrients there are almost no residues left in the medium which means that it can subsequently be used as a soil improver in an environmentally friendly way without any problems at all.

3 17/06/10 10:31 AM

The Structure of Terra

Are there different types of high peat?

®

The structure of Terra Professional determines how much water and air are available to the roots. Air is important for the roots’ oxygen supply and for the micro-organisms in the root environment. Roots need oxygen to grow, maintain the root system in good condition and ensure the uptake of water and nutrients. For fast growing plants, the provision of a good supply of air is of vital importance for obtaining a good final result. A shortage of air in the early stages of cultivation leads to a poorly developed ®

root system, which hampers growth resulting in a smaller yield. In order to ensure that the root environment has sufficient air it is necessary for oxygen to be taken from the air in the growing room, which happens, by diffusion. The structure of Terra® Professional is principally dependent on the quality of the raw materials it is made from. In order to get good Terra® it is necessary to start with virgin peat that has stable structural characteristics.

How is Peat mined?

Peat deposits are excavated using two different methods: the cheapest but least efficient method consists of “shaving off” the top layer of peat. The disadvantage of this technique is that the structure becomes finer causing unwanted effects on the air/ water relationship. The second and favoured method consists of cutting the peat vertically. This is also the most expensive way of extracting peat. Cutting peat into blocks means that the individual blocks need turning by hand to dry out. This produces a coarser peat, improving the air/water balance ensuring the root system develops faster leading to healthier plants with a reduced tendency of the peat to compress.

Sphagnum moss peat is suitable for use as a growing medium because it is natural, light, clean and easy to work with.

There are many different types and qualities of high peat available. The characteristics of high peat depend among other things, on the depth from which you extract it, the method of extraction and climatic circumstances of the peat region. Working through the peat profile from the top down you will find the following types of peat:

Upper layer of peat The upper layer is the top 25cm of the peat profile.

According to German peat cutting regulations this layer should be laid on the sandy bed after the white and black peat has been dug out. When the peat cutting area became agricultural land this remaining peat was deeply ploughed into the sandy bed to mix it. At present, the cheaper growing mediums use the ‘upper layer’ of peat. A disadvantage of the ‘upper layer’ of peat is that it does not always have a homogenous composition that is important for vigorous growth.

Upper layer of peat

Sphagnum moss peat Sphagnum moss peat is young, partially decomposed sphagnum moss. It has a low nutritional content with a pH that ranges from 3.5 to 4.5 and excellent water retention properties (able to retain up to 20 times its own weight in water). It has a light colour and consists almost entirely of different types of sphagnum moss.

Because sphagnum moss peat is a relatively young organic material, it breaks down quicker than older types of peat. Originating in Northern Europe, sphagnum moss peat is the premium grade of peat that is predominantly used in the more expensive sorts of grow mediums like CANNA® Terra® Professional.

Peat litter Peat litter or peat dust is extracted from the top layer of the peat profile. The product is light brown and only slightly decomposed. Peat litter can retain only 8 times its own weight in water. Water uptake and release are slower processes than in sphagnum moss peat. Peat litter is available in fine, normal and coarse grades depending on the method of extraction.

Extraction of the fine grade is horizontal with the peat being cut out layer by layer, dried and then harvested. This is the cheapest method. In order to produce a larger coarse grade, the more expensive vertical pitch method of extraction is used.

Garden peat Garden peat is an important source of peat for the peat industry. Production occurs by freezing wet black peat. The quality of garden peat depends on the extent to which it has been frozen. Freezing black peat improves its water retention qualities and reduces shrinkage. After drying out garden peat can only take up four times its own weight in water. Garden peat is dark brown, which is a good indication that it has already reached an advanced stage of decomposition. It consists of very fine particles, which gives it a relatively low air content.

Low peat forms in regions consisting of high ground water levels and ample nutrients. Low peat typically contains a high proportion of decayed material and high levels of silt, sand and harmful salts which make it an unsuitable peat for the manufacture of Terra® Professional.

High peat forms under the influence of rainwater in low nutrient regions. Its major ingredient consists of sphagnum moss. This small plant dies off from below while continuing to grow on top of on its own remains.

You will also find the remains of other plants in this type of peat like cotton grass for example.

4 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 4-5

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au

Peat litter Coloured peat Garden peat

Black peat (non permafrost) Non-permafrost black peat, also known as old peat, champ peat or casing soil peat, is not suitable for CANNA® Terra® Professional because it shrinks a lot when it dries and thereafter has low water retention levels. If it is thoroughly dried it becomes very hard peat (pressed peat) that is used as fuel for heating.

Where does peat come from?

One of the main ingredients in Terra® Professional is peat.

This is a natural material, centuries old, which forms from old vegetation. Peat originates from regions where climatic circumstances cause new plant matter to form faster than the dead vegetation can rot. Slowly but surely this process builds up a layer of organic material that can become several metres deep. There are two main regional differences for peat: High peat and low peat.

Sphagnum moss peat

www.canna.com.au

Infopaper

Coloured peat Extraction of coloured peat occurs from the layer between the white and black peat layers. This layer has decomposed more than the white layer and its colour lies between white and black peat.

‘Coloured’ peat retains less water than peat litter or sphagnum moss peat.

5 17/06/10 10:31 AM

The Structure of Terra

Are there different types of high peat?

®

The structure of Terra Professional determines how much water and air are available to the roots. Air is important for the roots’ oxygen supply and for the micro-organisms in the root environment. Roots need oxygen to grow, maintain the root system in good condition and ensure the uptake of water and nutrients. For fast growing plants, the provision of a good supply of air is of vital importance for obtaining a good final result. A shortage of air in the early stages of cultivation leads to a poorly developed ®

root system, which hampers growth resulting in a smaller yield. In order to ensure that the root environment has sufficient air it is necessary for oxygen to be taken from the air in the growing room, which happens, by diffusion. The structure of Terra® Professional is principally dependent on the quality of the raw materials it is made from. In order to get good Terra® it is necessary to start with virgin peat that has stable structural characteristics.

How is Peat mined?

Peat deposits are excavated using two different methods: the cheapest but least efficient method consists of “shaving off” the top layer of peat. The disadvantage of this technique is that the structure becomes finer causing unwanted effects on the air/ water relationship. The second and favoured method consists of cutting the peat vertically. This is also the most expensive way of extracting peat. Cutting peat into blocks means that the individual blocks need turning by hand to dry out. This produces a coarser peat, improving the air/water balance ensuring the root system develops faster leading to healthier plants with a reduced tendency of the peat to compress.

Sphagnum moss peat is suitable for use as a growing medium because it is natural, light, clean and easy to work with.

There are many different types and qualities of high peat available. The characteristics of high peat depend among other things, on the depth from which you extract it, the method of extraction and climatic circumstances of the peat region. Working through the peat profile from the top down you will find the following types of peat:

Upper layer of peat The upper layer is the top 25cm of the peat profile.

According to German peat cutting regulations this layer should be laid on the sandy bed after the white and black peat has been dug out. When the peat cutting area became agricultural land this remaining peat was deeply ploughed into the sandy bed to mix it. At present, the cheaper growing mediums use the ‘upper layer’ of peat. A disadvantage of the ‘upper layer’ of peat is that it does not always have a homogenous composition that is important for vigorous growth.

Upper layer of peat

Sphagnum moss peat Sphagnum moss peat is young, partially decomposed sphagnum moss. It has a low nutritional content with a pH that ranges from 3.5 to 4.5 and excellent water retention properties (able to retain up to 20 times its own weight in water). It has a light colour and consists almost entirely of different types of sphagnum moss.

Because sphagnum moss peat is a relatively young organic material, it breaks down quicker than older types of peat. Originating in Northern Europe, sphagnum moss peat is the premium grade of peat that is predominantly used in the more expensive sorts of grow mediums like CANNA® Terra® Professional.

Peat litter Peat litter or peat dust is extracted from the top layer of the peat profile. The product is light brown and only slightly decomposed. Peat litter can retain only 8 times its own weight in water. Water uptake and release are slower processes than in sphagnum moss peat. Peat litter is available in fine, normal and coarse grades depending on the method of extraction.

Extraction of the fine grade is horizontal with the peat being cut out layer by layer, dried and then harvested. This is the cheapest method. In order to produce a larger coarse grade, the more expensive vertical pitch method of extraction is used.

Garden peat Garden peat is an important source of peat for the peat industry. Production occurs by freezing wet black peat. The quality of garden peat depends on the extent to which it has been frozen. Freezing black peat improves its water retention qualities and reduces shrinkage. After drying out garden peat can only take up four times its own weight in water. Garden peat is dark brown, which is a good indication that it has already reached an advanced stage of decomposition. It consists of very fine particles, which gives it a relatively low air content.

Low peat forms in regions consisting of high ground water levels and ample nutrients. Low peat typically contains a high proportion of decayed material and high levels of silt, sand and harmful salts which make it an unsuitable peat for the manufacture of Terra® Professional.

High peat forms under the influence of rainwater in low nutrient regions. Its major ingredient consists of sphagnum moss. This small plant dies off from below while continuing to grow on top of on its own remains.

You will also find the remains of other plants in this type of peat like cotton grass for example.

4 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 4-5

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au

Peat litter Coloured peat Garden peat

Black peat (non permafrost) Non-permafrost black peat, also known as old peat, champ peat or casing soil peat, is not suitable for CANNA® Terra® Professional because it shrinks a lot when it dries and thereafter has low water retention levels. If it is thoroughly dried it becomes very hard peat (pressed peat) that is used as fuel for heating.

Where does peat come from?

One of the main ingredients in Terra® Professional is peat.

This is a natural material, centuries old, which forms from old vegetation. Peat originates from regions where climatic circumstances cause new plant matter to form faster than the dead vegetation can rot. Slowly but surely this process builds up a layer of organic material that can become several metres deep. There are two main regional differences for peat: High peat and low peat.

Sphagnum moss peat

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Infopaper

Coloured peat Extraction of coloured peat occurs from the layer between the white and black peat layers. This layer has decomposed more than the white layer and its colour lies between white and black peat.

‘Coloured’ peat retains less water than peat litter or sphagnum moss peat.

5 17/06/10 10:31 AM

North American Grade Potting Mixes and Mediums

Prevent damage!

Contaminated Mixes

Plant scientist Geary Googler Bsc reveals not all mixes are equal.

N

altered to fit a growers needs. These are known as bulk mixes since they are always sold in volume. Individual components, such as sphagnum moss, peat, and bark, are also sold in bulk even in the retail market. These bulk mixes are what are known as a modified Cornel Mix consisting of two parts white peat and one part perlite.

To this, lime is added so that the pH is buffered to around 6.0 (if you are lucky) and sufficient trace elements are added to give an even pallet in their ratios to one another. The lime for pH control is very seldom adequate to get past 3 months of growing, the fertility is nothing, and porosity is governed by the area of the field the peat came from plus the perlite. So what do you do? CANNA® Classic® is your choice.

orth America enjoys much diversity in what it provides to gardeners for use in their gardening activities in the way of soil amendments and potting mixes.

So many different names, types, and promises out there that quality becomes lost in the mix. Since selection of the roots new home is as important as choosing the plant itself, it would be better to keep an eye on the quality of the medium, and not let it drift to a ‘price only’ consideration.

However, price does not always mean quality either.

Let’s start out with a simple look at what we are talking about. The range of ingredients used in the industry runs from coarse, long fibered sphagnum peat moss to complex potting blends.

All have a purpose, but no single ingredient is complete as a single raw material. The attempt is made to adapt materials into a suitable replacement for natural mineral soils, or, in the case of specialized plants such as orchids, replace and commercially supply an environment for them that closely approximate their preferred growing locations. To this end, several materials are adaptable to these purposes, some better and some easier to use than others. Peat moss forms the base of almost all potting blends available in North America.

All of this add up to creating a proper mineral soil substitute.

Very little mineral soil is actually used in potting blends except for sand or organic rich topsoil. The denser the material, the more money it takes to ship so these materials have lost much of their popularity. When these items are combined correctly, they can form the base for a great soilless system for growing, which can then be fertilised to match the crop.

The green industry in North America is very large and diverse. Varying views are held by growers as to how they can best produce a crop. The sheer amount of different crops also

6 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 6-7

Mixes may include:

• composted bark (for porosity, bulk, and chemical attributes), • leaf mould (fertility and organic complexes), • perlite (for porosity), • vermiculite (for holding, CEC),

nutrient

• sand (porosity), • Styrofoam (porosity), • clay pebbles (porosity), • bagase (sugar cane pulp),

CANNA® Classic® will provide the correct elements in the right ratios while helping control the pH and getting past the pH issue. The components in the nutrient mix will fill the CEC sites in the bulk mixes providing for the correct results. The CANNA® Terra® line is designed to work with better pH buffering found in higher quality CEC mediums and with a corrected and stable initial nutrient ratio such as CANNA® Terra® Professional. So use CANNA® Classic® for bulk mixes, usually sold in large bales of compressed mixes, and Terra® Vega® and Terra® Flores® for the better quality peat mixes like CANNA® Terra® Professional.

• rice hulls, • lime (pH control), and

The most reliable way of measuring the nutrients present in CANNA® Terra® Professional is to use the 1:1.5 extraction method, which can be used to determine the root environment’s EC and pH. The EC and the pH of the drainage water will normally vary because Terra® Professional is capable of holding back a number of elements or even refusing them. It is best to carry out a 1:1.5 analysis after three to five weeks. The easiest way to make this analysis is to follow the plan given below step by step:

2. Put the sample in a bowl and determine if it is moist enough. This is done by squeezing some Terra® Professional in your hand; if moisture comes out it is OK. To increase the sample’s moisture content add distilled water. Mix the Terra® Professional well after adding water.

increase the number of combinations which can be desired by a grower.

Growers may prefer a different pH or a different porosity and getting blends custom manufactured is costly.

3. Take a 250ml measuring jug and fill it with 150ml of distilled water. Add Terra® Professional to bring it to 250ml, mix it well and leave it for at least 2 hours.

4. Filter the mixture that you now have and measure the pH and EC. Target values for the EC are between 1.1 and 1.3 and for the pH between 5.3 and 6.2.

The potting mix industry developed basic mixes to be used as just that, a general purpose mix that can be

Step-by-step: measuring method

Certified fo r Horticultu ral Use

1. Take a media sample. This can be done with a ground drill or a spoon.

Take the media from a large number of different places to ensure that the sample is representative.

• charcoal, • saw dust (unwise), many others.

Peat is naturally quite acidic (pH 3.5-4.5) so lime must be added to raise the pH. CANNA® Terra® Professional always contains lime. The amount of lime that must be added depends on the composition of the peat. For example, garden peat always needs more lime than peat litter to raise the pH. On average peat needs 5 – 6 kg of lime per m3 (1,000 litre) to increase the pH. After adding the lime it will take a few weeks for the pH to stabilise. If no lime is added, or not enough, high concentrations of elements such as manganese, iron and phosphate will be absorbed and this may lead to signs of over feeding being seen. The concentration of aluminium can rise to toxic levels for the plant, causing root thickening, which will restrict food intake. Cheap peat’s pH is too low, so the addition of 20 grammes of lime (Dolocal) per 10 litres of mix will raise the pH one point. The correct degree of acidity for peat based mixes is between 5.3 and 6.2. Values higher than 6.2 can lead to phosphate being deposited in the form of calcium phosphate making it inaccessible to the plant.

Peat mixes that are available in the market can vary greatly in quality from one to the other.

In the Netherlands the RHP foundation focuses on quality maintenance and control of peat products, soil components, peat mixes and substrates such as coco, perlite, pumice stone etc. Substrates and substrate components that have the RHP quality mark are safe mixes (few weeds and free of disease) but they do not offer any guarantee of a successful harvest. In fact, the RHP quality mark does not say anything about the precise structure and chemical make up of the peat. Peat mixes can vary a lot in price. Peat mixes based on garden peat are generally cheaper than mixes based on airy white peat, and it is also true to say that the coarser grades of white peat are times Dutcmany h Quality M ark more expensive than the fine grades.

Infopaper

Email CANNA your clever gardening ideas with your name, email address and age to info@canna.com.au

www.canna.com.au

www.canna.com.au

Infopaper

7 17/06/10 10:32 AM

North American Grade Potting Mixes and Mediums

Prevent damage!

Contaminated Mixes

Plant scientist Geary Googler Bsc reveals not all mixes are equal.

N

altered to fit a growers needs. These are known as bulk mixes since they are always sold in volume. Individual components, such as sphagnum moss, peat, and bark, are also sold in bulk even in the retail market. These bulk mixes are what are known as a modified Cornel Mix consisting of two parts white peat and one part perlite.

To this, lime is added so that the pH is buffered to around 6.0 (if you are lucky) and sufficient trace elements are added to give an even pallet in their ratios to one another. The lime for pH control is very seldom adequate to get past 3 months of growing, the fertility is nothing, and porosity is governed by the area of the field the peat came from plus the perlite. So what do you do? CANNA® Classic® is your choice.

orth America enjoys much diversity in what it provides to gardeners for use in their gardening activities in the way of soil amendments and potting mixes.

So many different names, types, and promises out there that quality becomes lost in the mix. Since selection of the roots new home is as important as choosing the plant itself, it would be better to keep an eye on the quality of the medium, and not let it drift to a ‘price only’ consideration.

However, price does not always mean quality either.

Let’s start out with a simple look at what we are talking about. The range of ingredients used in the industry runs from coarse, long fibered sphagnum peat moss to complex potting blends.

All have a purpose, but no single ingredient is complete as a single raw material. The attempt is made to adapt materials into a suitable replacement for natural mineral soils, or, in the case of specialized plants such as orchids, replace and commercially supply an environment for them that closely approximate their preferred growing locations. To this end, several materials are adaptable to these purposes, some better and some easier to use than others. Peat moss forms the base of almost all potting blends available in North America.

All of this add up to creating a proper mineral soil substitute.

Very little mineral soil is actually used in potting blends except for sand or organic rich topsoil. The denser the material, the more money it takes to ship so these materials have lost much of their popularity. When these items are combined correctly, they can form the base for a great soilless system for growing, which can then be fertilised to match the crop.

The green industry in North America is very large and diverse. Varying views are held by growers as to how they can best produce a crop. The sheer amount of different crops also

6 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 6-7

Mixes may include:

• composted bark (for porosity, bulk, and chemical attributes), • leaf mould (fertility and organic complexes), • perlite (for porosity), • vermiculite (for holding, CEC),

nutrient

• sand (porosity), • Styrofoam (porosity), • clay pebbles (porosity), • bagase (sugar cane pulp),

CANNA® Classic® will provide the correct elements in the right ratios while helping control the pH and getting past the pH issue. The components in the nutrient mix will fill the CEC sites in the bulk mixes providing for the correct results. The CANNA® Terra® line is designed to work with better pH buffering found in higher quality CEC mediums and with a corrected and stable initial nutrient ratio such as CANNA® Terra® Professional. So use CANNA® Classic® for bulk mixes, usually sold in large bales of compressed mixes, and Terra® Vega® and Terra® Flores® for the better quality peat mixes like CANNA® Terra® Professional.

• rice hulls, • lime (pH control), and

The most reliable way of measuring the nutrients present in CANNA® Terra® Professional is to use the 1:1.5 extraction method, which can be used to determine the root environment’s EC and pH. The EC and the pH of the drainage water will normally vary because Terra® Professional is capable of holding back a number of elements or even refusing them. It is best to carry out a 1:1.5 analysis after three to five weeks. The easiest way to make this analysis is to follow the plan given below step by step:

2. Put the sample in a bowl and determine if it is moist enough. This is done by squeezing some Terra® Professional in your hand; if moisture comes out it is OK. To increase the sample’s moisture content add distilled water. Mix the Terra® Professional well after adding water.

increase the number of combinations which can be desired by a grower.

Growers may prefer a different pH or a different porosity and getting blends custom manufactured is costly.

3. Take a 250ml measuring jug and fill it with 150ml of distilled water. Add Terra® Professional to bring it to 250ml, mix it well and leave it for at least 2 hours.

4. Filter the mixture that you now have and measure the pH and EC. Target values for the EC are between 1.1 and 1.3 and for the pH between 5.3 and 6.2.

The potting mix industry developed basic mixes to be used as just that, a general purpose mix that can be

Step-by-step: measuring method

Certified fo r Horticultu ral Use

1. Take a media sample. This can be done with a ground drill or a spoon.

Take the media from a large number of different places to ensure that the sample is representative.

• charcoal, • saw dust (unwise), many others.

Peat is naturally quite acidic (pH 3.5-4.5) so lime must be added to raise the pH. CANNA® Terra® Professional always contains lime. The amount of lime that must be added depends on the composition of the peat. For example, garden peat always needs more lime than peat litter to raise the pH. On average peat needs 5 – 6 kg of lime per m3 (1,000 litre) to increase the pH. After adding the lime it will take a few weeks for the pH to stabilise. If no lime is added, or not enough, high concentrations of elements such as manganese, iron and phosphate will be absorbed and this may lead to signs of over feeding being seen. The concentration of aluminium can rise to toxic levels for the plant, causing root thickening, which will restrict food intake. Cheap peat’s pH is too low, so the addition of 20 grammes of lime (Dolocal) per 10 litres of mix will raise the pH one point. The correct degree of acidity for peat based mixes is between 5.3 and 6.2. Values higher than 6.2 can lead to phosphate being deposited in the form of calcium phosphate making it inaccessible to the plant.

Peat mixes that are available in the market can vary greatly in quality from one to the other.

In the Netherlands the RHP foundation focuses on quality maintenance and control of peat products, soil components, peat mixes and substrates such as coco, perlite, pumice stone etc. Substrates and substrate components that have the RHP quality mark are safe mixes (few weeds and free of disease) but they do not offer any guarantee of a successful harvest. In fact, the RHP quality mark does not say anything about the precise structure and chemical make up of the peat. Peat mixes can vary a lot in price. Peat mixes based on garden peat are generally cheaper than mixes based on airy white peat, and it is also true to say that the coarser grades of white peat are times Dutcmany h Quality M ark more expensive than the fine grades.

Infopaper

Email CANNA your clever gardening ideas with your name, email address and age to info@canna.com.au

www.canna.com.au

www.canna.com.au

Infopaper

7 17/06/10 10:32 AM

Proven results

Watering Terra and other mediums

As a result of previous research into the proportional balance of water and air in hydroponic substrates, CANNA® set up practical tests using peat mixes based on high quality porous basic materials. These mixes were comparable to the popular peat mixes containing perlite that are available on the market. In different growing rooms half of the plants were set in a peat mix containing perlite and the other half were set in the Terra® Professional mix. Climate and feeding was the same for all the plants. After three weeks clear differences could be seen between the two. The plants on the Terra® mix showed significantly better growth, an average of 5cm longer length with more robust stems. There were also fewer limp hanging leaves during the night cycle indicating that the plants were receiving sufficient water in the dark, a prerequisite for optimal growth and flowering. The results of these tests show the importance of making abundant air available to the root environment. Choose carefully!

What is the best watering frequency for watering CANNA® Terra® Professional or hydroponic mediums?

Geary Googler, with 30 plus years of working in the green industry, is the most frequently asked question he hears. It is also the hardest one to answer. There is absolutely no easy response, but only one right one: when the plant needs it. Both the frequency of water applications and, to a lesser extent, the amount of water to apply, are dependent on many outside variables that further complicate the issue, thus requiring the grower to maintain an ‘eyes on’ approach in his or her growing techniques. Geary Googler shares his tips for a successful crop.

Germinating: Seeds Take extra care to ensure that you buy seeds that are suitable for the type of cultivation you have chosen.

Germinate your seeds using this step by step process: 1. Place the seeds in a glass of water. Renew the water every day if necessary. A seed is viable when it opens and a small root emerges.

Carefully cover them with a little Terra® Seedling Mix. Never sow too deep as this will prevent the germinated seed from emerging from the ground. After a week or so, the first plants will emerge from the ground.

4. Transplant into a larger container after 1-2 weeks containing Terra® Professional. Press the medium lightly.

2. Do not allow the roots to become too long since they can be easily broken off during planting out which will make it impossible for a full size plant to form.

5. To stimulate better root growth and to assist the plants in establishing themselves it is recommended that you give CANNA® RHIZOTONIC® two or three times in the first week.

3. Remove the germinated seeds from the glass and plant them carefully in individual pots filled with CANNA® Terra® Seedling Mix. Make holes about 1.5 cm deep in the mix.

6. Give your plants Terra® Vega® in the growing phase and change to Terra® Flores® in the flowering phase.

The flowering phase begins when the first flowers appear.

8 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 8-9

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au 17/06/10 10:32 AM

Proven results

Watering Terra and other mediums

As a result of previous research into the proportional balance of water and air in hydroponic substrates, CANNA® set up practical tests using peat mixes based on high quality porous basic materials. These mixes were comparable to the popular peat mixes containing perlite that are available on the market. In different growing rooms half of the plants were set in a peat mix containing perlite and the other half were set in the Terra® Professional mix. Climate and feeding was the same for all the plants. After three weeks clear differences could be seen between the two. The plants on the Terra® mix showed significantly better growth, an average of 5cm longer length with more robust stems. There were also fewer limp hanging leaves during the night cycle indicating that the plants were receiving sufficient water in the dark, a prerequisite for optimal growth and flowering. The results of these tests show the importance of making abundant air available to the root environment. Choose carefully!

What is the best watering frequency for watering CANNA® Terra® Professional or hydroponic mediums?

Geary Googler, with 30 plus years of working in the green industry, is the most frequently asked question he hears. It is also the hardest one to answer. There is absolutely no easy response, but only one right one: when the plant needs it. Both the frequency of water applications and, to a lesser extent, the amount of water to apply, are dependent on many outside variables that further complicate the issue, thus requiring the grower to maintain an ‘eyes on’ approach in his or her growing techniques. Geary Googler shares his tips for a successful crop.

Germinating: Seeds Take extra care to ensure that you buy seeds that are suitable for the type of cultivation you have chosen.

Germinate your seeds using this step by step process: 1. Place the seeds in a glass of water. Renew the water every day if necessary. A seed is viable when it opens and a small root emerges.

Carefully cover them with a little Terra® Seedling Mix. Never sow too deep as this will prevent the germinated seed from emerging from the ground. After a week or so, the first plants will emerge from the ground.

4. Transplant into a larger container after 1-2 weeks containing Terra® Professional. Press the medium lightly.

2. Do not allow the roots to become too long since they can be easily broken off during planting out which will make it impossible for a full size plant to form.

5. To stimulate better root growth and to assist the plants in establishing themselves it is recommended that you give CANNA® RHIZOTONIC® two or three times in the first week.

3. Remove the germinated seeds from the glass and plant them carefully in individual pots filled with CANNA® Terra® Seedling Mix. Make holes about 1.5 cm deep in the mix.

6. Give your plants Terra® Vega® in the growing phase and change to Terra® Flores® in the flowering phase.

The flowering phase begins when the first flowers appear.

8 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 8-9

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au 17/06/10 10:32 AM

Pandora’s Box

The Root Environment Cont... to grow lettuce in peat filled containers. Roots also require the correct proportion of air to water in the medium based on the type plant it is. All roots require oxygen to function.

Plants do not have lungs and a true circulatory system to move oxygen from the leaves to the roots, oxygen has to diffuse through the plants tissue. While most carnivorous plants require little air, cacti and succulents require lots of air. Most plants fall in the middle. Steady temperature and correct humidity are key components in root development and function; they are influenced by the type medium used. (Fig 1-2)

This is the one area in the growing process that makes or breaks a grower. Once we moved out of a natural setting into one of our own design and began demanding the best performance from those crops we produce, we opened the ‘Pandora’s Box’ of growing. We fundamentally changed water relations between the plant, the medium, and the grower. To fix this problem, the industry has developed a wide variety of mediums and systems that work well with the change. The question ‘Which one is right for you’ is answered entirely on the type of grower you are. Understanding how the pieces act when they come together will give you an indication in what method should work best with your style. We modify our approach to watering to adjust for all the variables our plants may see that are unique to our growing situation, and we will achieve the best results possible. The one variable we cannot adjust for is a grower that does not adapt his or her growing techniques, or design his/her production system around those limitations.

The Growth Tetrahedron Let’s begin our look at watering by accepting a small fact: The successful completion of a plant crop is predicated on the successful implementation of the growth Tetrahedron (see Figure 1-1).

Figure 1-1 Growth Tetrahedron

The tetrahedron has as its sides the 4 primary components of achieving growth. Each side is equal in importance and must be optimised to fit with the other sides. As you can see the base of the pyramid is water (as a solution or pure) because it exists in all the sides as well. The Plant

Selection will determine both the root environment (and consequentially the system or medium that will be used), and the top environment that will be needed (sides 2, 3 and 4). It takes all four sides to make the tetrahedron and each determines the limits of the others.

The plant or crop is the first side and the first decision.

Based on what you want to grow will determine how to grow it; on which root environment and top environment to use is predicated on the chosen plant. In addition, choices are made based on the grower’s knowledge of the system, the crop, strengths and weaknesses, and the remaining two sides. It makes no sense to attempt tomatoes if the environment does not have sufficient light. It makes equally little sense to grow orchids when the water solution is scarce. While lettuce may be grown successfully in peat or coco, it can be grown as well in an NFT system while decreasing the time, costs, and environmental area it occupies. Just because you can grow leaf lettuce in your grow room, does not mean you can grow head lettuce successfully unless you can drop the temperature in the room to cooler levels. Choose your plant carefully, both type and variety, as all are different and will respond different.

The Root Environment

Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 10-11

The Top Environment is everything that the plant above the crown or soil line sees. This includes correct temperatures for the particular plant grown. In addition, light intensity (including composition, duration and penetration), the air (its component gases, their movement, and their ratio), and relative humidity are all integral components of this environment (to a lesser extent, this includes pathogens and external stresses as well). While skewed values in any of these values will do great harm, all mitigate each other to an extent. The plant assimilates carbon atoms, the basic building block for life, as we know it, only from this side as a constituent of the air, CO2. Its’ not so much the

Water, the universal solvent, comprises our final side, the base, and exists as a solution. I refer to it in a broad sense from the individual atom to the complex slurry that moves nutrients to the root surface in a mass flow, and subsequently up the stem to the rest of the plant. Water sees action in all sides, as humidity in the top environment, moving nutrients and supporting other media activities in the medium, directly controlling all activity in the plant, and supplying the necessary nutrients to the final use sites in the plant cells through transporting them. Water has to be correct for every side, for every side to be correct. It is required in the initial stages of converting light to energy, and the final stage of respiration. It has to match the needs of the plant. The chemical composition of the water is critical in its performance and must be matched and balanced to work correctly. While a plant will usually adapt to limitations in the other sides of our growth tetrahedron (it won’t be as pretty or as productive, but it can survive and multiply, the only true goal of any plant), it will not tolerate water depletion.

Limit the water and its functions decrease or cease, forcing it dormant or killing it outright. Getting it right is the hardest thing to teach and the easiest to screw up.

The thought to take away from this is that remove one side of the Tetrahedron and nothing works, cheat one side and, even if the other sides are right on, you will short-change the crop. A change in any side in quantity, quality, composition, or availability, and you will have to affect change in at least one other side to compensate. Information on all the needs of a plant for each side is pretty much known and achievable with current technologies: the question is it obtainable by the grower given his time, knowledge, budget, workload, or temper.’

Now, let us get down to it by understanding and accepting a couple of key points and rules-of-thumb.

Rule of Thumb - No.1 To begin, herbaceous root systems require near 100% humidity, ideally, at all times, otherwise the root tips die back. The root tip is the very small end of the root that is divided into three zones. The length is variable based on many considerations such as plant variety, temperature, water levels past, and many more. This tip is responsible for the taking up of the vast majority of minerals and water. Root hairs facilitate this uptake and occur in the last or third zone. After the third zone the root tissue begins to lignify and become more impervious to water and nutrients. Kill the tips and the root has to regenerate one before going forward.

The second side is the Root environment, which determines the system to employ in growing. What will best fit with the other sides? The System determines the root environment or medium to use. This is how we not only prepare, present, and store water, food and air for the plant, it also serves to protect and shelter half the plant. Roots work differently than the top but in conjunction with and influenced by the top at the same time. The medium serves to provide support both physically and materially for the plant. The type of medium pretty much is determined by the needs of the crop and grower. While soilless mix mediums will provide long term storage of food and water, and physically support the plant making the life of the grower easier (while reducing headaches), for the grower it makes little economic sense

10

(Fig 1-2) Air relation and pore space.

effect of one component that makes the difference, it is how all these components come together that affect the efforts, including driving the final side, Water.

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au

www.canna.com.au

Infopaper

11 17/06/10 10:32 AM

Pandora’s Box

The Root Environment Cont... to grow lettuce in peat filled containers. Roots also require the correct proportion of air to water in the medium based on the type plant it is. All roots require oxygen to function.

Plants do not have lungs and a true circulatory system to move oxygen from the leaves to the roots, oxygen has to diffuse through the plants tissue. While most carnivorous plants require little air, cacti and succulents require lots of air. Most plants fall in the middle. Steady temperature and correct humidity are key components in root development and function; they are influenced by the type medium used. (Fig 1-2)

This is the one area in the growing process that makes or breaks a grower. Once we moved out of a natural setting into one of our own design and began demanding the best performance from those crops we produce, we opened the ‘Pandora’s Box’ of growing. We fundamentally changed water relations between the plant, the medium, and the grower. To fix this problem, the industry has developed a wide variety of mediums and systems that work well with the change. The question ‘Which one is right for you’ is answered entirely on the type of grower you are. Understanding how the pieces act when they come together will give you an indication in what method should work best with your style. We modify our approach to watering to adjust for all the variables our plants may see that are unique to our growing situation, and we will achieve the best results possible. The one variable we cannot adjust for is a grower that does not adapt his or her growing techniques, or design his/her production system around those limitations.

The Growth Tetrahedron Let’s begin our look at watering by accepting a small fact: The successful completion of a plant crop is predicated on the successful implementation of the growth Tetrahedron (see Figure 1-1).

Figure 1-1 Growth Tetrahedron

The tetrahedron has as its sides the 4 primary components of achieving growth. Each side is equal in importance and must be optimised to fit with the other sides. As you can see the base of the pyramid is water (as a solution or pure) because it exists in all the sides as well. The Plant

Selection will determine both the root environment (and consequentially the system or medium that will be used), and the top environment that will be needed (sides 2, 3 and 4). It takes all four sides to make the tetrahedron and each determines the limits of the others.

The plant or crop is the first side and the first decision.

Based on what you want to grow will determine how to grow it; on which root environment and top environment to use is predicated on the chosen plant. In addition, choices are made based on the grower’s knowledge of the system, the crop, strengths and weaknesses, and the remaining two sides. It makes no sense to attempt tomatoes if the environment does not have sufficient light. It makes equally little sense to grow orchids when the water solution is scarce. While lettuce may be grown successfully in peat or coco, it can be grown as well in an NFT system while decreasing the time, costs, and environmental area it occupies. Just because you can grow leaf lettuce in your grow room, does not mean you can grow head lettuce successfully unless you can drop the temperature in the room to cooler levels. Choose your plant carefully, both type and variety, as all are different and will respond different.

The Root Environment

Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 10-11

The Top Environment is everything that the plant above the crown or soil line sees. This includes correct temperatures for the particular plant grown. In addition, light intensity (including composition, duration and penetration), the air (its component gases, their movement, and their ratio), and relative humidity are all integral components of this environment (to a lesser extent, this includes pathogens and external stresses as well). While skewed values in any of these values will do great harm, all mitigate each other to an extent. The plant assimilates carbon atoms, the basic building block for life, as we know it, only from this side as a constituent of the air, CO2. Its’ not so much the

Water, the universal solvent, comprises our final side, the base, and exists as a solution. I refer to it in a broad sense from the individual atom to the complex slurry that moves nutrients to the root surface in a mass flow, and subsequently up the stem to the rest of the plant. Water sees action in all sides, as humidity in the top environment, moving nutrients and supporting other media activities in the medium, directly controlling all activity in the plant, and supplying the necessary nutrients to the final use sites in the plant cells through transporting them. Water has to be correct for every side, for every side to be correct. It is required in the initial stages of converting light to energy, and the final stage of respiration. It has to match the needs of the plant. The chemical composition of the water is critical in its performance and must be matched and balanced to work correctly. While a plant will usually adapt to limitations in the other sides of our growth tetrahedron (it won’t be as pretty or as productive, but it can survive and multiply, the only true goal of any plant), it will not tolerate water depletion.

Limit the water and its functions decrease or cease, forcing it dormant or killing it outright. Getting it right is the hardest thing to teach and the easiest to screw up.

The thought to take away from this is that remove one side of the Tetrahedron and nothing works, cheat one side and, even if the other sides are right on, you will short-change the crop. A change in any side in quantity, quality, composition, or availability, and you will have to affect change in at least one other side to compensate. Information on all the needs of a plant for each side is pretty much known and achievable with current technologies: the question is it obtainable by the grower given his time, knowledge, budget, workload, or temper.’

Now, let us get down to it by understanding and accepting a couple of key points and rules-of-thumb.

Rule of Thumb - No.1 To begin, herbaceous root systems require near 100% humidity, ideally, at all times, otherwise the root tips die back. The root tip is the very small end of the root that is divided into three zones. The length is variable based on many considerations such as plant variety, temperature, water levels past, and many more. This tip is responsible for the taking up of the vast majority of minerals and water. Root hairs facilitate this uptake and occur in the last or third zone. After the third zone the root tissue begins to lignify and become more impervious to water and nutrients. Kill the tips and the root has to regenerate one before going forward.

The second side is the Root environment, which determines the system to employ in growing. What will best fit with the other sides? The System determines the root environment or medium to use. This is how we not only prepare, present, and store water, food and air for the plant, it also serves to protect and shelter half the plant. Roots work differently than the top but in conjunction with and influenced by the top at the same time. The medium serves to provide support both physically and materially for the plant. The type of medium pretty much is determined by the needs of the crop and grower. While soilless mix mediums will provide long term storage of food and water, and physically support the plant making the life of the grower easier (while reducing headaches), for the grower it makes little economic sense

10

(Fig 1-2) Air relation and pore space.

effect of one component that makes the difference, it is how all these components come together that affect the efforts, including driving the final side, Water.

Infopaper

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www.canna.com.au

Infopaper

11 17/06/10 10:32 AM

Rule of Thumb - No.2

Hand watering vs Automatic Irrigation

Roots grow in response to depletion zones, or areas where the root has absorbed all the minerals and water located there. When the material is not replaced, the root extends to find more. Roots have to grow. When nutrients and water are abundant, the root system does not develop in balance with the shoots and a carbohydrate limited condition presents itself weakening the plant. Allow the plants time to dry and thus use up the minerals present. Conversely, hold them too dry and a condition known as chronic underwater or underfeed can manifest. The root tips will also die back limiting further plant development. (Fig 1-3)

(Fig 1-3) Roots in Coco

Rule of Thumb - No.3 Over-watering is accomplished by keeping the roots submerged in water without allowing them to see oxygen. This is more a function of time and drainage and less about volume.

With the possible exception of deep-water culture, a neat thing to see but pretty useless for any but the most experience growers, never let roots stay submerged for more then 20 minutes, even then you will get some die-back. Remember, roots require Oxygen to do their job, which comes through diffusion at the root surface. A well drained medium can have water applied for a longer period (ON time) because the excess drains quickly from the medium when the application ceases. Poor drained mediums have much shorter application time (but application rate has to be slower for absorption) because it will take longer to drain the excess water away from the root surface. (Very poorly drained mediums are impossible because the rate of application has to be slow to absorb and with the drainage time, can never be watered throughout). (Fig 1-4)

(Fig 1-4) Irrigation Depth Profile & Media Type

Rule of Thumb - No. 4 & 5 4. The general rule of thumb for determining the root health and irrigation needs of a system is that 1 m² of bench top, covered with leaves, will use 4-6 litres of water a day. New plants, or where the square meter is not covered totally with leaves, will use about 3 litres a day on average. This is true whether there are 2 plants or 20 in the square meter. Build the system to be able to supply this amount across each watering and for however long you want to go without mixing more. Use this figure to decide how well the plants are working. If it is using less, either the roots are having a tough go, the humidity could be too high, the temp could be too low, and so on.

5. When figuring water cycle on a crop of more then one plant, base times on an average of all the plants.

For instance, we want to water most mediums (except aeroponics) when about 50% of the total volume of the water is used or gone. Set automatic systems to turn on when 50% of the crop is ready. To accomplish this, keep everything the same; medium, plant age and size, light exposure, air currents, and so on. Above all else, keep the crops developing equally.

Hand watering is the easiest and least expensive of all the systems. This includes everything from holding the hose in your hand to manually tripping a valve that applies water through an irrigation system of drippers, spray stakes or other individual emitters including sprinklers and soaker hoses. This gives the grower the most control as long as they are paying attention and getting the correct amount of water into each container or plant. If a grower is using 25 litre containers filled with CANNAÂŽ TerraÂŽ Professional, applying 1 litre of water will not suffice. Occasionally water until you get at least 20% drainage; this will insure total saturation and wash away accumulated salts. For precise volume applications, you have to use a system that applies a known volume of water to each point.

To accomplish this, automating the system is required.

Design the system around the water need. Start with how much water needs to go into a container in the time allotted to insure the roots are not submerged for more then the suggested time. Then, since drippers have depth profiles, pick a type dripper and how many will be required to go into a container to satisfy this need. After that, count the total drippers required for the attempted system, design the pipes, and pump to deliver this total amount of volume at the pressure required for the dripper to work correctly.

Then size the tank to insure that this amount will be available at each watering, and that satisfies the number of applications that are needed between tank changes.

Remember that volume has to be equal at each dripper, so insure that the pressure needed in the entire system and volume supplied is available at each dripper with some margin for error. Also, remember that as pressure goes up, volume out decreases. If you need to supply a minimum of

40 psi in a system and 2000 litres a minute, you will have to use a pump that is capable of this.

That is it, all the systems in the market today fall into two categories, manual and automatic. The clock is the important consideration and the labour needed to water.

Everything else is about plumbing. In simplest terms, the goal is to deliver water to the root zone on time and on target, everything else is convenience or accuracy. Therefore, there are two categories and many systems. The simplest are the best.

Over the top watering by hand is the best especially for leaching salts, but can be accomplished with spray stakes, as long as all containers can be watered. Drip emitters are great in mediums that are not too airy, but depend on lateral movement to saturate the root zone and do little to rinse out the medium. Sprinklers are great but only if the crop (and building) can handle it and have tight restrictions on how since disease and missed containers are often results of this system (also wastes much water to the air and as run off). Spray stakes really offer the most adaptability for most mediums, excluding air where the emitter should be a mist nozzle. They can be used to disburse water across a medium, ensuring equal watering and good leaching.

While it is hard to condense 30 years of learning into one short article, if these guidelines are followed, the results in plant performance, money saved, and general grower success will be realized. The key element in this entire discussion is the grower. It is the grower that affects the entire system and succeeding or failing is entirely in their hands.

Rule of Thumb - No. 6 & 7 6. Roots like the dark and really try to grow away from light. Keep them as dark as possible in systems that are thin walled PVC, or an air chamber.

7. Remember, in a container with medium and drainage holes, you can not put in too much water, just too long an application. For example; a 20 litre pot can have 12 litres applied in 5 minutes or 75 litres (if the medium does not flush away) but there will be the same amount left in the container ten minutes after stopping application and this is the only important point.

Rule of Thumb - No. 8 Cycles have to be adjusted during the dark period of the lighting cycle because the plant is using much less water.

The dark cycle is critical to plant development. This holds true for cloudy days or high humidity periods. Media that holds water (peat, rockwool, etc.), seldom if ever need watering during the night as long as the grower adjusts the irrigation cycle to water in the last half hour of light or first half hour. Aeroponics will need an infrequent application a few times during the night.

12 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 12-13

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au

www.canna.com.au

Infopaper

13 17/06/10 10:33 AM

Rule of Thumb - No.2

Hand watering vs Automatic Irrigation

Roots grow in response to depletion zones, or areas where the root has absorbed all the minerals and water located there. When the material is not replaced, the root extends to find more. Roots have to grow. When nutrients and water are abundant, the root system does not develop in balance with the shoots and a carbohydrate limited condition presents itself weakening the plant. Allow the plants time to dry and thus use up the minerals present. Conversely, hold them too dry and a condition known as chronic underwater or underfeed can manifest. The root tips will also die back limiting further plant development. (Fig 1-3)

(Fig 1-3) Roots in Coco

Rule of Thumb - No.3 Over-watering is accomplished by keeping the roots submerged in water without allowing them to see oxygen. This is more a function of time and drainage and less about volume.

With the possible exception of deep-water culture, a neat thing to see but pretty useless for any but the most experience growers, never let roots stay submerged for more then 20 minutes, even then you will get some die-back. Remember, roots require Oxygen to do their job, which comes through diffusion at the root surface. A well drained medium can have water applied for a longer period (ON time) because the excess drains quickly from the medium when the application ceases. Poor drained mediums have much shorter application time (but application rate has to be slower for absorption) because it will take longer to drain the excess water away from the root surface. (Very poorly drained mediums are impossible because the rate of application has to be slow to absorb and with the drainage time, can never be watered throughout). (Fig 1-4)

(Fig 1-4) Irrigation Depth Profile & Media Type

Rule of Thumb - No. 4 & 5 4. The general rule of thumb for determining the root health and irrigation needs of a system is that 1 m² of bench top, covered with leaves, will use 4-6 litres of water a day. New plants, or where the square meter is not covered totally with leaves, will use about 3 litres a day on average. This is true whether there are 2 plants or 20 in the square meter. Build the system to be able to supply this amount across each watering and for however long you want to go without mixing more. Use this figure to decide how well the plants are working. If it is using less, either the roots are having a tough go, the humidity could be too high, the temp could be too low, and so on.

5. When figuring water cycle on a crop of more then one plant, base times on an average of all the plants.

For instance, we want to water most mediums (except aeroponics) when about 50% of the total volume of the water is used or gone. Set automatic systems to turn on when 50% of the crop is ready. To accomplish this, keep everything the same; medium, plant age and size, light exposure, air currents, and so on. Above all else, keep the crops developing equally.

Hand watering is the easiest and least expensive of all the systems. This includes everything from holding the hose in your hand to manually tripping a valve that applies water through an irrigation system of drippers, spray stakes or other individual emitters including sprinklers and soaker hoses. This gives the grower the most control as long as they are paying attention and getting the correct amount of water into each container or plant. If a grower is using 25 litre containers filled with CANNAÂŽ TerraÂŽ Professional, applying 1 litre of water will not suffice. Occasionally water until you get at least 20% drainage; this will insure total saturation and wash away accumulated salts. For precise volume applications, you have to use a system that applies a known volume of water to each point.

To accomplish this, automating the system is required.

Design the system around the water need. Start with how much water needs to go into a container in the time allotted to insure the roots are not submerged for more then the suggested time. Then, since drippers have depth profiles, pick a type dripper and how many will be required to go into a container to satisfy this need. After that, count the total drippers required for the attempted system, design the pipes, and pump to deliver this total amount of volume at the pressure required for the dripper to work correctly.

Then size the tank to insure that this amount will be available at each watering, and that satisfies the number of applications that are needed between tank changes.

Remember that volume has to be equal at each dripper, so insure that the pressure needed in the entire system and volume supplied is available at each dripper with some margin for error. Also, remember that as pressure goes up, volume out decreases. If you need to supply a minimum of

40 psi in a system and 2000 litres a minute, you will have to use a pump that is capable of this.

That is it, all the systems in the market today fall into two categories, manual and automatic. The clock is the important consideration and the labour needed to water.

Everything else is about plumbing. In simplest terms, the goal is to deliver water to the root zone on time and on target, everything else is convenience or accuracy. Therefore, there are two categories and many systems. The simplest are the best.

Over the top watering by hand is the best especially for leaching salts, but can be accomplished with spray stakes, as long as all containers can be watered. Drip emitters are great in mediums that are not too airy, but depend on lateral movement to saturate the root zone and do little to rinse out the medium. Sprinklers are great but only if the crop (and building) can handle it and have tight restrictions on how since disease and missed containers are often results of this system (also wastes much water to the air and as run off). Spray stakes really offer the most adaptability for most mediums, excluding air where the emitter should be a mist nozzle. They can be used to disburse water across a medium, ensuring equal watering and good leaching.

While it is hard to condense 30 years of learning into one short article, if these guidelines are followed, the results in plant performance, money saved, and general grower success will be realized. The key element in this entire discussion is the grower. It is the grower that affects the entire system and succeeding or failing is entirely in their hands.

Rule of Thumb - No. 6 & 7 6. Roots like the dark and really try to grow away from light. Keep them as dark as possible in systems that are thin walled PVC, or an air chamber.

7. Remember, in a container with medium and drainage holes, you can not put in too much water, just too long an application. For example; a 20 litre pot can have 12 litres applied in 5 minutes or 75 litres (if the medium does not flush away) but there will be the same amount left in the container ten minutes after stopping application and this is the only important point.

Rule of Thumb - No. 8 Cycles have to be adjusted during the dark period of the lighting cycle because the plant is using much less water.

The dark cycle is critical to plant development. This holds true for cloudy days or high humidity periods. Media that holds water (peat, rockwool, etc.), seldom if ever need watering during the night as long as the grower adjusts the irrigation cycle to water in the last half hour of light or first half hour. Aeroponics will need an infrequent application a few times during the night.

12 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 12-13

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au

www.canna.com.au

Infopaper

13 17/06/10 10:33 AM

Cannazym

CANNABOOST

®

®

CANNAZYM ® is Holland’s largest selling enzyme booster that uses the tools of nature to unlock the ultimate in growth rates and greater yields in rapidly growing plants.

It sets the benchmark for this all-natural biocatalyst, root decomposer and grow medium improver. Used as an additive to your regular nutrient, it contains a carefully balanced and integrated blend of more than fifteen different live organic super enzymes and essential plant vitamins that rapidly convert dead root mass into minerals and sugars to allow for new healthier roots to form, supercharging vital nutrient uptake for better root development, vigorous growth, larger buds, blooms, fruits and fl owers.

Unique 3 in 1 Product!

In addition to super-charging nutrient uptake, CANNAZYM ® is enriched with rare desert plant extracts that elevate the plants immune system to invincible levels to protect against plant sickness. Plus easily absorbable vitamins produce strong

PK 13-14

Cannazym® 250 mL Bottle 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle

Thicker, Harder Flowers Faster Plants fl owered with CANNABOOST® increase their rate of photosynthesis almost immediately and start quickly forming numerous, tight and heavy clusters of fl owers that continue for many weeks. The unique combination of elements, not found in any other bloom booster, help your plants finish the fl owering cycle up to a week and a half earlier - that’s 20% faster - without the usual loss in weight.

a leaf spray. The advantage of this is that the plant can absorb the fl owering booster directly via the leaves.

Even Higher Yields Using PK 13-14 ® CANNABOOST® is not a nutrient but a nutrient additive that radically accelerates the plant’s rate of photosynthesis. CANNABOOST® is best partnered with CANNA PK 13-14 ® and CANNA ® nutrients for results that you have to see to believe!

Try a Bottle Today CANNABOOST® is the new boost generation.

It guarantees the shortest harvests and the heaviest, thickest, hardest fl owers - ever!

This Dutch fl owering booster is the market leader and sets the benchmark for this popular type of additive. Try this proven booster for yourself today.

In addition to adding CANNABOOST® to the nutrient solution, it can also be used as

CANNABOOST Accelerator® 250 mL Bottle 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle

Rhizotonic

®

Unmatchable Size & Weight!

Testimonials from countless growers around the globe who use CANNA ® PK 13-14 ® report larger, heavier yields of fruits and fl owers with an average yield increase of 35%. Our powerful formulation awards unparalleled fl ower size, weight and fruit swelling. Best of all it’s totally unique, absolutely safe, easy to use and incredibly rewarding!

Ultimate Performance In A Single Bottle!

Only CANNA ® PK 13-14 ® utilises an extremely powerful formulation containing a carefully balanced and integrated blend high in bio-available phosphorous and potassium for superior fl owering results.

Unlike other inferior fl owering additives, only PK 13-14 ® from CANNA ® has a guaranteed composition of 13% P205 and 14 % K2O that

Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 14-15

Maintains Plant Health & Vitality!

Enzymes are substances that speed up the reactions in living organisms, e.g. enzymes play a vital role in our digestion to break down food. The super enzymes in CANNAZYM ® accomplish in minutes and days what would take normal plant functions weeks and months to achieve by rapidly converting dead root mass into minerals and sugars, which are a valuable source of nutrients for the plant as well as for the environment. No gardener should be without the valuable insurance that CANNAZYM ® brings!

CANNABOOST® Accelerator has already taken the Dutch home garden market by storm and is now set to revolutionise the Australian booster industry. CANNABOOST® Accelerator radically accelerates the blooming response, improves quality and significantly boosts fl ower yield in rapidly growing annual plants.

®

PK 13-14 ® from CANNA ® in Holland is the proven world wide market leader and No. 1 fl owering stimulator. Holland’s secret weapon is now available to be unleashed in your garden too!

14

new root growth. Additional biogrowth stimulants enhance overall plant growth and chemical reactions within the plant to guarantee a healthier, more powerful plant. An amazing product that is versatile, incredibly effective and very affordable!

has been extensively researched, developed and field tested in Holland’s labs and greenhouses to arguably work faster and more effective than all other compositions.

PK 13-14 ® is so effective it only needs to be used for a period of one week.

CANNA ® RHIZOTONIC ® is Holland’s No.1 brand of organic root stimulant used by countless growers around the world to activate, protect, revive and stimulate indoor and outdoor plants, seedlings, trees, flowers, bulbs, natives and more.

RHIZOTONIC ® will boost your plants immune system and armour plate your plant against sickness. Holland’s favourite can now be a winner in your garden too!

PK 13-14 ® is an intelligent plant nutrient supplement proven by countless Dutch experts to promote profuse blooms and optimise the performance of modern plant nutrients to radically increase plant yields.

The Proven Winner In Extreme Yields!

Our unique bio-available forms of Potassium and Phosphorus are essential ingredients for the metabolism in the plant and have a direct infl uence on the fl owering and fruiting process. They are the proven winners to help fl owers and fruits develop quicker with an enhanced sweetness and fl avour. Enjoy the unrivalled purity and results that only the finest Dutch ingredients can bring!

Infopaper

PK 13-14® 250 mL Bottle 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle

www.canna.com.au

Unique 60 in 1 Product!

Holland’s legendary RHIZOTONIC ® is based on world leading Dutch plant laboratory research regarding the root initiation process to give you the best performing root stimulant ever. It radically accelerates new root growth up to 55% significantly reducing the growth cycle in rapid growing plants. It protects against plant sickness and best of all nothing else makes such a difference!

Containing a carefully integrated and balanced formulation of the finest

www.canna.com.au

Norwegian seaweed extracts and no less than 60 biogrowth stimulants and vitamins, RHIZOTONIC ® boosts overall plant growth, guaranteeing a superior, more powerful plant needed for BIGGER harvests!

The Proven Winner in Saving Plants!

RHIZOTONIC ® contains revolutionary oligosaccharide chemistry, a high quality saccharine that is a proven winner to save stressed plants due to transplanting, over and under watering, root disease, moulds, root burn, over-fertilising, root pruning and re-potting. Stressed plants suffer root death, which results in slow growth, damaged fl owers, reduced yields and reductions in fruit size and development. So when your plants are feeling stressed, reach for RHIZOTONIC ® to trigger explosive new growth immediately, within several hours in some cases, saving you weeks of valuable time in the process.

Infopaper

Rhizotonic® 250 mL Bottle 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle

15 17/06/10 10:33 AM

Cannazym

CANNABOOST

®

®

CANNAZYM ® is Holland’s largest selling enzyme booster that uses the tools of nature to unlock the ultimate in growth rates and greater yields in rapidly growing plants.

It sets the benchmark for this all-natural biocatalyst, root decomposer and grow medium improver. Used as an additive to your regular nutrient, it contains a carefully balanced and integrated blend of more than fifteen different live organic super enzymes and essential plant vitamins that rapidly convert dead root mass into minerals and sugars to allow for new healthier roots to form, supercharging vital nutrient uptake for better root development, vigorous growth, larger buds, blooms, fruits and fl owers.

Unique 3 in 1 Product!

In addition to super-charging nutrient uptake, CANNAZYM ® is enriched with rare desert plant extracts that elevate the plants immune system to invincible levels to protect against plant sickness. Plus easily absorbable vitamins produce strong

PK 13-14

Cannazym® 250 mL Bottle 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle

Thicker, Harder Flowers Faster Plants fl owered with CANNABOOST® increase their rate of photosynthesis almost immediately and start quickly forming numerous, tight and heavy clusters of fl owers that continue for many weeks. The unique combination of elements, not found in any other bloom booster, help your plants finish the fl owering cycle up to a week and a half earlier - that’s 20% faster - without the usual loss in weight.

a leaf spray. The advantage of this is that the plant can absorb the fl owering booster directly via the leaves.

Even Higher Yields Using PK 13-14 ® CANNABOOST® is not a nutrient but a nutrient additive that radically accelerates the plant’s rate of photosynthesis. CANNABOOST® is best partnered with CANNA PK 13-14 ® and CANNA ® nutrients for results that you have to see to believe!

Try a Bottle Today CANNABOOST® is the new boost generation.

It guarantees the shortest harvests and the heaviest, thickest, hardest fl owers - ever!

This Dutch fl owering booster is the market leader and sets the benchmark for this popular type of additive. Try this proven booster for yourself today.

In addition to adding CANNABOOST® to the nutrient solution, it can also be used as

CANNABOOST Accelerator® 250 mL Bottle 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle

Rhizotonic

®

Unmatchable Size & Weight!

Testimonials from countless growers around the globe who use CANNA ® PK 13-14 ® report larger, heavier yields of fruits and fl owers with an average yield increase of 35%. Our powerful formulation awards unparalleled fl ower size, weight and fruit swelling. Best of all it’s totally unique, absolutely safe, easy to use and incredibly rewarding!

Ultimate Performance In A Single Bottle!

Only CANNA ® PK 13-14 ® utilises an extremely powerful formulation containing a carefully balanced and integrated blend high in bio-available phosphorous and potassium for superior fl owering results.

Unlike other inferior fl owering additives, only PK 13-14 ® from CANNA ® has a guaranteed composition of 13% P205 and 14 % K2O that

Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 14-15

Maintains Plant Health & Vitality!

Enzymes are substances that speed up the reactions in living organisms, e.g. enzymes play a vital role in our digestion to break down food. The super enzymes in CANNAZYM ® accomplish in minutes and days what would take normal plant functions weeks and months to achieve by rapidly converting dead root mass into minerals and sugars, which are a valuable source of nutrients for the plant as well as for the environment. No gardener should be without the valuable insurance that CANNAZYM ® brings!

CANNABOOST® Accelerator has already taken the Dutch home garden market by storm and is now set to revolutionise the Australian booster industry. CANNABOOST® Accelerator radically accelerates the blooming response, improves quality and significantly boosts fl ower yield in rapidly growing annual plants.

®

PK 13-14 ® from CANNA ® in Holland is the proven world wide market leader and No. 1 fl owering stimulator. Holland’s secret weapon is now available to be unleashed in your garden too!

14

new root growth. Additional biogrowth stimulants enhance overall plant growth and chemical reactions within the plant to guarantee a healthier, more powerful plant. An amazing product that is versatile, incredibly effective and very affordable!

has been extensively researched, developed and field tested in Holland’s labs and greenhouses to arguably work faster and more effective than all other compositions.

PK 13-14 ® is so effective it only needs to be used for a period of one week.

CANNA ® RHIZOTONIC ® is Holland’s No.1 brand of organic root stimulant used by countless growers around the world to activate, protect, revive and stimulate indoor and outdoor plants, seedlings, trees, flowers, bulbs, natives and more.

RHIZOTONIC ® will boost your plants immune system and armour plate your plant against sickness. Holland’s favourite can now be a winner in your garden too!

PK 13-14 ® is an intelligent plant nutrient supplement proven by countless Dutch experts to promote profuse blooms and optimise the performance of modern plant nutrients to radically increase plant yields.

The Proven Winner In Extreme Yields!

Our unique bio-available forms of Potassium and Phosphorus are essential ingredients for the metabolism in the plant and have a direct infl uence on the fl owering and fruiting process. They are the proven winners to help fl owers and fruits develop quicker with an enhanced sweetness and fl avour. Enjoy the unrivalled purity and results that only the finest Dutch ingredients can bring!

Infopaper

PK 13-14® 250 mL Bottle 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle

www.canna.com.au

Unique 60 in 1 Product!

Holland’s legendary RHIZOTONIC ® is based on world leading Dutch plant laboratory research regarding the root initiation process to give you the best performing root stimulant ever. It radically accelerates new root growth up to 55% significantly reducing the growth cycle in rapid growing plants. It protects against plant sickness and best of all nothing else makes such a difference!

Containing a carefully integrated and balanced formulation of the finest

www.canna.com.au

Norwegian seaweed extracts and no less than 60 biogrowth stimulants and vitamins, RHIZOTONIC ® boosts overall plant growth, guaranteeing a superior, more powerful plant needed for BIGGER harvests!

The Proven Winner in Saving Plants!

RHIZOTONIC ® contains revolutionary oligosaccharide chemistry, a high quality saccharine that is a proven winner to save stressed plants due to transplanting, over and under watering, root disease, moulds, root burn, over-fertilising, root pruning and re-potting. Stressed plants suffer root death, which results in slow growth, damaged fl owers, reduced yields and reductions in fruit size and development. So when your plants are feeling stressed, reach for RHIZOTONIC ® to trigger explosive new growth immediately, within several hours in some cases, saving you weeks of valuable time in the process.

Infopaper

Rhizotonic® 250 mL Bottle 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle

15 17/06/10 10:33 AM

Terra Vega

Terra Professional

®

®

Do you want the best of the best? Then you should choose the CANNA® Terra® Professional grow medium as well as the CANNA® Terra® nutrient range. Using Terra® Professional in combination with specially developed nutrients such as Terra® Vega® and Terra® Flores® will give you the best results and yield.

The Proven Winner for Extreme Size Yields.

The quality raw organic materials used to make the Terra Professional® substrate are guaranteed to be unlike anything you’ll find in a garden centre or hydroponic shop.

It contains a blend of sphagnum moss peat, coloured peat, perlite and a special “natural plant booster” which is a blend of potent organic ingredients scientifically proven to stimulate root growth and protect your plant against sickness.

Terra Professional® contains trace elements and chelates that ensure the plants are protected as they grow. Terra Professional® is enriched with a special feeding mix that contains all the elements the plant needs for their first week.

If you are going to grow fast growing plants, then this is the potting mix you want to use.

Terra Professional

®

CODE

SIZE

10.5000.100

50L

PACKING

WEIGHT

55/pallet

Contains the highest grade

European Sphagnum Peat Moss

19KG

European Sphagnum Peat Moss Caring for a Natural Resource

INGREDIENTS • European Sphagnum Peat Moss (55-65%/vol.)

• Coco Coir Peat (30%/vol.)

• Coloured Peat (5%/vol.)

• Perlite - horticultural grade • Dolomitic & Calcitic Limestone (pH adjuster) • Macronutrients • Micronutrients

CANNA® Terra® Seedmix is perfectly suited for germinating the seeds of your favourite plant. It is the Rolls Royce of mixes with a homogeneous, stable structure consisting of virgin peat and very clean coco coir that ensures a higher retainability of water, giving the seeds the best chance of germinating correctly. Terra® Seedmix is also particularly suitable for use when rooting cuttings.

Unmatchable Growth Rates & Yields!

Peat based substrate has its own cation-exchange complex which needs to be catered for if you want to extract the

maximum benefits from it. This means that peat binds and excludes nutrients and as a result not all the given nutrients are available to the plant. This signifies that next generation terraponic nutrients are necessary. Market leading CANNA® Terra® nutrients from Holland are scientifically formulated to ensure that your plants provide you with the greatest yields possible when growing in peat based mixes such as Terra® Professional, soil that is nutrient deficient or soil that has been used previously.

Terra Seedmix ®

®

SIZE

25L

Contains the highest grade

PACKING

55/pallet

European Sphagnum Peat Moss

WEIGHT

8KG

European Sphagnum Peat Moss Caring for a Natural Resource

16 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 16-17

As the market leader, the Terra® range of nutrients have a biotropic effect and are so advanced they anticipate exactly what the plant needs. Terra® Vega® ensures that there is an optimum balance in the plant cells increasing resistance to sickness. Contrary to other fertilisers, Terra® Vega® is absorbed quickly. This is important for fast-growing plants since the different development phases follow one after the other very quickly. This high degree of absorbability means that the plant only has to devote a small amount of energy to this process, which enables it to focus completely on growth.

®

®

10.5000.200

Developed during extensive Dutch field testing, CANNA® Terra® Vega® is the first nutrient in the hydroponic market that is specifically developed for cultivation on peat based mixes.

Terra® Vega® remains unequalled due to its revolutionary formula and the high standards that CANNA® sets during production.

Use Terra® Vega® during the first stages of plant growth - the vegetative phase. It accelerates the generation of lush, early growth on cuttings, seedlings and transplants resulting in more lateral shoot growth and greater plant biomass for a winning result! It’s also an ideal feeding for mother plants used for making clones. Rich in rapidly absorbable nitrogen compounds and pharmaceutical grade chelated trace elements, Terra® Vega® ensures complete absorption of nutrients during the critical stages of plant growth. is easy to use, dissolves Terra® Vega® immediately and is extremely suitable for automatic ”run to waste” irrigation systems.

Terra® Vega® is suitable for use with different type of peat based mixes such as Terra® Professional, soil that is nutrient deficient or soil that has been used previously.

Terra® Vega® 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle 25 Litre Bottle

Terra Flores

Terra Seedling Mix

CODE

®

Infopaper

INGREDIENTS • European Sphagnum Peat Moss (15-25%/vol.)

• Coco Coir Peat (70%/vol.)

• Coloured Peat (5%/vol.)

• Perlite - horticultural grade • Dolomitic & Calcitic Limestone (pH adjuster) • Macronutrients • Micronutrients

www.canna.com.au

®

Use CANNA® Terra® Flores® for the blooming and fruiting stages of the plant. Rich in elements like potassium, phosphorous and pharmaceutical grade chelated trace elements it guarantees to pack weight and size on your flowers and fruit like no other nutrient can!

Flores®. In addition Terra® Flores® stimulates the fruit formation and contains all the nutrients that the flowers need during the flowering phase. Terra® Flores® is rich in chelated trace elements that can be absorbed immediately, which guarantees lavish flowering.

Terra® Flores® contains all the nutritional elements that the plants need during the flowering phase. The plants’ need for nitrogen reduces just as their need for potassium and phosphate greatly increases during the flowering phase. In order to accommodate these changing circumstances Terra® Flores® contains the correct quantities of all the trace elements that are needed to meet the plants’ requirements and ensure superb flowering.

The availability and composition of nutrients play a crucial role during the plant’s flowering phase. The tendency of peat based mixes to bind nutritional ions is compensated for by the scientifically formulated composition of Terra®

Terra® Flores® is a complete professional nutrient for fast growing plants during the blooming phase, specially developed for growing in peat mixes and soil. Terra® Flores® stimulates the fruition and provides every plant with its characteristic flavour.

www.canna.com.au

Terra® Flores® is easy to use, directly dissolves and is extremely suitable for growing with automatic ”run to waste” irrigation systems.

For indoor and outdoor cultivation.

Terra® Flores® 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle 25 Litre Bottle

Infopaper

17 17/06/10 10:34 AM

Terra Vega

Terra Professional

®

®

Do you want the best of the best? Then you should choose the CANNA® Terra® Professional grow medium as well as the CANNA® Terra® nutrient range. Using Terra® Professional in combination with specially developed nutrients such as Terra® Vega® and Terra® Flores® will give you the best results and yield.

The Proven Winner for Extreme Size Yields.

The quality raw organic materials used to make the Terra Professional® substrate are guaranteed to be unlike anything you’ll find in a garden centre or hydroponic shop.

It contains a blend of sphagnum moss peat, coloured peat, perlite and a special “natural plant booster” which is a blend of potent organic ingredients scientifically proven to stimulate root growth and protect your plant against sickness.

Terra Professional® contains trace elements and chelates that ensure the plants are protected as they grow. Terra Professional® is enriched with a special feeding mix that contains all the elements the plant needs for their first week.

If you are going to grow fast growing plants, then this is the potting mix you want to use.

Terra Professional

®

CODE

SIZE

10.5000.100

50L

PACKING

WEIGHT

55/pallet

Contains the highest grade

European Sphagnum Peat Moss

19KG

European Sphagnum Peat Moss Caring for a Natural Resource

INGREDIENTS • European Sphagnum Peat Moss (55-65%/vol.)

• Coco Coir Peat (30%/vol.)

• Coloured Peat (5%/vol.)

• Perlite - horticultural grade • Dolomitic & Calcitic Limestone (pH adjuster) • Macronutrients • Micronutrients

CANNA® Terra® Seedmix is perfectly suited for germinating the seeds of your favourite plant. It is the Rolls Royce of mixes with a homogeneous, stable structure consisting of virgin peat and very clean coco coir that ensures a higher retainability of water, giving the seeds the best chance of germinating correctly. Terra® Seedmix is also particularly suitable for use when rooting cuttings.

Unmatchable Growth Rates & Yields!

Peat based substrate has its own cation-exchange complex which needs to be catered for if you want to extract the

maximum benefits from it. This means that peat binds and excludes nutrients and as a result not all the given nutrients are available to the plant. This signifies that next generation terraponic nutrients are necessary. Market leading CANNA® Terra® nutrients from Holland are scientifically formulated to ensure that your plants provide you with the greatest yields possible when growing in peat based mixes such as Terra® Professional, soil that is nutrient deficient or soil that has been used previously.

Terra Seedmix ®

®

SIZE

25L

Contains the highest grade

PACKING

55/pallet

European Sphagnum Peat Moss

WEIGHT

8KG

European Sphagnum Peat Moss Caring for a Natural Resource

16 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 16-17

As the market leader, the Terra® range of nutrients have a biotropic effect and are so advanced they anticipate exactly what the plant needs. Terra® Vega® ensures that there is an optimum balance in the plant cells increasing resistance to sickness. Contrary to other fertilisers, Terra® Vega® is absorbed quickly. This is important for fast-growing plants since the different development phases follow one after the other very quickly. This high degree of absorbability means that the plant only has to devote a small amount of energy to this process, which enables it to focus completely on growth.

®

®

10.5000.200

Developed during extensive Dutch field testing, CANNA® Terra® Vega® is the first nutrient in the hydroponic market that is specifically developed for cultivation on peat based mixes.

Terra® Vega® remains unequalled due to its revolutionary formula and the high standards that CANNA® sets during production.

Use Terra® Vega® during the first stages of plant growth - the vegetative phase. It accelerates the generation of lush, early growth on cuttings, seedlings and transplants resulting in more lateral shoot growth and greater plant biomass for a winning result! It’s also an ideal feeding for mother plants used for making clones. Rich in rapidly absorbable nitrogen compounds and pharmaceutical grade chelated trace elements, Terra® Vega® ensures complete absorption of nutrients during the critical stages of plant growth. is easy to use, dissolves Terra® Vega® immediately and is extremely suitable for automatic ”run to waste” irrigation systems.

Terra® Vega® is suitable for use with different type of peat based mixes such as Terra® Professional, soil that is nutrient deficient or soil that has been used previously.

Terra® Vega® 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle 25 Litre Bottle

Terra Flores

Terra Seedling Mix

CODE

®

Infopaper

INGREDIENTS • European Sphagnum Peat Moss (15-25%/vol.)

• Coco Coir Peat (70%/vol.)

• Coloured Peat (5%/vol.)

• Perlite - horticultural grade • Dolomitic & Calcitic Limestone (pH adjuster) • Macronutrients • Micronutrients

www.canna.com.au

®

Use CANNA® Terra® Flores® for the blooming and fruiting stages of the plant. Rich in elements like potassium, phosphorous and pharmaceutical grade chelated trace elements it guarantees to pack weight and size on your flowers and fruit like no other nutrient can!

Flores®. In addition Terra® Flores® stimulates the fruit formation and contains all the nutrients that the flowers need during the flowering phase. Terra® Flores® is rich in chelated trace elements that can be absorbed immediately, which guarantees lavish flowering.

Terra® Flores® contains all the nutritional elements that the plants need during the flowering phase. The plants’ need for nitrogen reduces just as their need for potassium and phosphate greatly increases during the flowering phase. In order to accommodate these changing circumstances Terra® Flores® contains the correct quantities of all the trace elements that are needed to meet the plants’ requirements and ensure superb flowering.

The availability and composition of nutrients play a crucial role during the plant’s flowering phase. The tendency of peat based mixes to bind nutritional ions is compensated for by the scientifically formulated composition of Terra®

Terra® Flores® is a complete professional nutrient for fast growing plants during the blooming phase, specially developed for growing in peat mixes and soil. Terra® Flores® stimulates the fruition and provides every plant with its characteristic flavour.

www.canna.com.au

Terra® Flores® is easy to use, directly dissolves and is extremely suitable for growing with automatic ”run to waste” irrigation systems.

For indoor and outdoor cultivation.

Terra® Flores® 1 Litre Bottle 5 Litre Bottle 25 Litre Bottle

Infopaper

17 17/06/10 10:34 AM

Grow on Terra

S

ince everything has become so much more expensive over the last years I decided to start growing myself! I decided to move from my flat to accommodation with a greenhouse.

Sow the seed Of course it all starts with the seeds.

I’ve found the correct method for germinating them now. First, I lay the seeds between moist cotton wool and cover these with a saucer to keep them moist and dark. When the roots become visible after a few days, I put them into CANNA® Terra® Professional and give them CANNA® RHIZOTONIC® for about a week to develop strong roots and increase their resistance to disease.

Using cuttings I’ve also been using cuttings now. I have a mother plant of my own and take cuttings myself. I take cuttings from young, vigorous parts of the plant.

I cut off a piece that’s between 5 and 15cm long just above an auxiliary bud where the stem is between 2 and 5mm thick.

The cutting shouldn’t have too much leaf otherwise it’ll dry out too quickly because it can’t absorb water easily without roots. I remove any large leaves so that my cutting looks like a small plant.

I cut the stalk diagonally to try and maximise the area of the cut. If I don’t have time to transfer the cutting into the CANNA® Terra® Seedmix straight

away, then I’ll put it in a glass of water.

I then dip the end of the cutting in a rooting powder and make sure I get rid of any excess. I ensure the Terra® Seedmix is nice and moist before I insert the cutting into it. I then place the cutting in a mini greenhouse to keep the humidity up high. After a week or two the first little roots start appearing. The cutting is now ready to be potted up into a larger pot.

And... just grow!

After a week, when the plants start growing and the first real leaves appear , I start feeding them with BioVega® three times a week. The fertiliser concentration must not be too high. Keep the room temperature between 20°C and 25°C. Ideal humidity is between 60% and 70%.

Since I am growing inside, I also have to pay attention to the illumination.

During the growing phase the plants receive 18 hours of lighting. My reflectors get dirty as time goes by so I clean them regularly.

Flowering I switch the light length to 12 hours when the plants are about 30 cm high which gives me a finishing height of between 60 and 70cm. After about two weeks the first flowers appear, I switch to BioFlores® and water about three times a week. After three weeks the fruits become larger and start to smell wonderful. Sometimes I put a stick next to the plants when they have difficulty remaining upright because they are so full! I’ve been using CANNABOOST ® Accelerator and have been really happy with the increased yield and quality.

Own taste When my plants are almost ready for harvest I stop feeding them. This is how the final taste is achieved. My friends often laugh at me but I remain convinced that the taste is a lot nicer if you grow your own (with love) on Terra® Professional.

With Organic Regards, Brian.

Growers Tip: when to irrigate The proper time to water a plant in CANNA® Terra® Professional or any other organic based medium is when it has lost 50% of the water it holds.

How do you know when your plant has lost half its water?

To work this out, water your plant until it is wet and then allow it to drain for 15 minutes. Now weigh the container, plant and all. When it loses half of the weight it had, then water. For example, if I take a 15cm container with a geranium in the new Terra Professional ®, water it until it drains, allow 15 minutes to complete gravity draining. Place it on the scale. It weighs 46.2 grams.

I will withhold watering until it weighs 24 - 27 grams.

www.canna.com.au Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 18-19

Infopaper

You can get a more accurate reading by weighing the components of medium and container when dry, then subtract this from the original weight and watch for a loss of 50%. So, if that 50g container actually weighed 10 grams pot and soilless medium, I would use 40g as my start and then water when the container dropped to around 27 - 30g.

The same holds true on automatic irrigation on large crops, only you add the line ‘50% of the crop...’ In other words, when 50% of the crop is 50% dry it’s time to water. If you have 100 containers on the bench, you would water when 50 of those containers drop below 50% weight loss or when they drop below 30 grams (using the previous example).

19 17/06/10 10:34 AM

Grow on Terra

S

ince everything has become so much more expensive over the last years I decided to start growing myself! I decided to move from my flat to accommodation with a greenhouse.

Sow the seed Of course it all starts with the seeds.

I’ve found the correct method for germinating them now. First, I lay the seeds between moist cotton wool and cover these with a saucer to keep them moist and dark. When the roots become visible after a few days, I put them into CANNA® Terra® Professional and give them CANNA® RHIZOTONIC® for about a week to develop strong roots and increase their resistance to disease.

Using cuttings I’ve also been using cuttings now. I have a mother plant of my own and take cuttings myself. I take cuttings from young, vigorous parts of the plant.

I cut off a piece that’s between 5 and 15cm long just above an auxiliary bud where the stem is between 2 and 5mm thick.

The cutting shouldn’t have too much leaf otherwise it’ll dry out too quickly because it can’t absorb water easily without roots. I remove any large leaves so that my cutting looks like a small plant.

I cut the stalk diagonally to try and maximise the area of the cut. If I don’t have time to transfer the cutting into the CANNA® Terra® Seedmix straight

away, then I’ll put it in a glass of water.

I then dip the end of the cutting in a rooting powder and make sure I get rid of any excess. I ensure the Terra® Seedmix is nice and moist before I insert the cutting into it. I then place the cutting in a mini greenhouse to keep the humidity up high. After a week or two the first little roots start appearing. The cutting is now ready to be potted up into a larger pot.

And... just grow!

After a week, when the plants start growing and the first real leaves appear , I start feeding them with BioVega® three times a week. The fertiliser concentration must not be too high. Keep the room temperature between 20°C and 25°C. Ideal humidity is between 60% and 70%.

Since I am growing inside, I also have to pay attention to the illumination.

During the growing phase the plants receive 18 hours of lighting. My reflectors get dirty as time goes by so I clean them regularly.

Flowering I switch the light length to 12 hours when the plants are about 30 cm high which gives me a finishing height of between 60 and 70cm. After about two weeks the first flowers appear, I switch to BioFlores® and water about three times a week. After three weeks the fruits become larger and start to smell wonderful. Sometimes I put a stick next to the plants when they have difficulty remaining upright because they are so full! I’ve been using CANNABOOST ® Accelerator and have been really happy with the increased yield and quality.

Own taste When my plants are almost ready for harvest I stop feeding them. This is how the final taste is achieved. My friends often laugh at me but I remain convinced that the taste is a lot nicer if you grow your own (with love) on Terra® Professional.

With Organic Regards, Brian.

Growers Tip: when to irrigate The proper time to water a plant in CANNA® Terra® Professional or any other organic based medium is when it has lost 50% of the water it holds.

How do you know when your plant has lost half its water?

To work this out, water your plant until it is wet and then allow it to drain for 15 minutes. Now weigh the container, plant and all. When it loses half of the weight it had, then water. For example, if I take a 15cm container with a geranium in the new Terra Professional ®, water it until it drains, allow 15 minutes to complete gravity draining. Place it on the scale. It weighs 46.2 grams.

I will withhold watering until it weighs 24 - 27 grams.

www.canna.com.au Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 18-19

Infopaper

You can get a more accurate reading by weighing the components of medium and container when dry, then subtract this from the original weight and watch for a loss of 50%. So, if that 50g container actually weighed 10 grams pot and soilless medium, I would use 40g as my start and then water when the container dropped to around 27 - 30g.

The same holds true on automatic irrigation on large crops, only you add the line ‘50% of the crop...’ In other words, when 50% of the crop is 50% dry it’s time to water. If you have 100 containers on the bench, you would water when 50 of those containers drop below 50% weight loss or when they drop below 30 grams (using the previous example).

19 17/06/10 10:34 AM

S ’ A N N CA

INFO-COURIER

Growing using the Terra ® system from CANNA® is very productive and profitable. It will generally be free of nutrient deficiencies. In order to cure nutrient deficiencies in fast growing plants when not using the CANNA® Terra system, you need to be able to recognise the problems your plants might encounter. Here’s a handy CANNA overview with seven possible nutrient deficiencies and how to cure them.

Calcium What is it and what does it do? * Is important to the growth process. * Has a regulating effect in the cells and contributes to the stability of the plant.

What can you see? * Yellow/brown spots, surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge.

* Sometimes the growing points will wrinkle up and around the fruits you will find thin, small leaves that are not spotted.

What can you do? * Add calcium by applying a liquid lime fertiliser such as a calcium nitrate solution.

* The older leaves die off slowly and yellowish cloudy spots may appear around the necrotic spots. The older the leaf is, the more serious the symptoms are.

* Be careful with fertilizers containing chloride.

About calcium in short Calcium occurs throughout the entire plant. It is used for many processes in the plant, however, calcium is most important for the growth process. It has a regulating effect in the cells and contributes to the stability of the plant. Plants have two transportation systems at their disposal: the xylem vessels and the sieve vessels.

Most nutrients can be transported via both systems, however, for calcium this is not possible. Since calcium can be transported almost exclusively via the xylem vessels, it is an element that deposes of little mobility within the plant. It is, therefore, important that a suffi cient amount of calcium is always available in the root environment, so that it will be continuously available for absorption by the plant.

Symptoms of a defi ciency The older, larger leaves just above the bottommost ones will show the fi rst symptoms. Yellow/brown spots occur, which are often surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge. In addition, the growth is curbed and in serious cases the tops are smaller than normal and do not close.

Development of a defi ciency * The symptoms often appear quickly; within one or two weeks of the fi rst spots being visible on the older leaves. The spots usually start as small, light brown specks that increase in size over time.

www.canna.com.au Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 20-21

* After two weeks, the older leaves show ever increasing spots and the spots also often appears at the edge of the leaves, as with a potassium deficiency or with scorch symptoms. The spots have a sharp outline and do not originate exclusively at the edge of the leaves. A lag in development is often already noticeable within a week.

Infopaper

* The fl owering is also hindered and slowed down. Fruits stay small.

Reasons for a defi ciency * Culture on calcium fi xing soil. * An excessive amount of ammonium, potassium, magnesium and/or sodium in the root environment. The absorption is curbed mostly by ammonium and least by sodium. * Problems with the evaporation caused by an excessively high EC value or by excessively high or low relative humidity.

Solutions to a defi ciency * If the EC value of the substrate or the soil is too high, it can be easily rinsed out with pure and if necessary acidified water. * Additional calcium can be applied through the nutrient solution by means of liquid lime fertilisers such as a calcium nitrate solution. With an excessively acidic soil, lime milk can be used to increase the pH. * Use the appropriate soil that is not too acidic. Acid soil often contains insufficient amounts of lime. Good potting soil and Coco substrates are already limed.

21 17/06/10 10:34 AM

S ’ A N N CA

INFO-COURIER

Growing using the Terra ® system from CANNA® is very productive and profitable. It will generally be free of nutrient deficiencies. In order to cure nutrient deficiencies in fast growing plants when not using the CANNA® Terra system, you need to be able to recognise the problems your plants might encounter. Here’s a handy CANNA overview with seven possible nutrient deficiencies and how to cure them.

Calcium What is it and what does it do? * Is important to the growth process. * Has a regulating effect in the cells and contributes to the stability of the plant.

What can you see? * Yellow/brown spots, surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge.

* Sometimes the growing points will wrinkle up and around the fruits you will find thin, small leaves that are not spotted.

What can you do? * Add calcium by applying a liquid lime fertiliser such as a calcium nitrate solution.

* The older leaves die off slowly and yellowish cloudy spots may appear around the necrotic spots. The older the leaf is, the more serious the symptoms are.

* Be careful with fertilizers containing chloride.

About calcium in short Calcium occurs throughout the entire plant. It is used for many processes in the plant, however, calcium is most important for the growth process. It has a regulating effect in the cells and contributes to the stability of the plant. Plants have two transportation systems at their disposal: the xylem vessels and the sieve vessels.

Most nutrients can be transported via both systems, however, for calcium this is not possible. Since calcium can be transported almost exclusively via the xylem vessels, it is an element that deposes of little mobility within the plant. It is, therefore, important that a suffi cient amount of calcium is always available in the root environment, so that it will be continuously available for absorption by the plant.

Symptoms of a defi ciency The older, larger leaves just above the bottommost ones will show the fi rst symptoms. Yellow/brown spots occur, which are often surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge. In addition, the growth is curbed and in serious cases the tops are smaller than normal and do not close.

Development of a defi ciency * The symptoms often appear quickly; within one or two weeks of the fi rst spots being visible on the older leaves. The spots usually start as small, light brown specks that increase in size over time.

www.canna.com.au Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 20-21

* After two weeks, the older leaves show ever increasing spots and the spots also often appears at the edge of the leaves, as with a potassium deficiency or with scorch symptoms. The spots have a sharp outline and do not originate exclusively at the edge of the leaves. A lag in development is often already noticeable within a week.

Infopaper

* The fl owering is also hindered and slowed down. Fruits stay small.

Reasons for a defi ciency * Culture on calcium fi xing soil. * An excessive amount of ammonium, potassium, magnesium and/or sodium in the root environment. The absorption is curbed mostly by ammonium and least by sodium. * Problems with the evaporation caused by an excessively high EC value or by excessively high or low relative humidity.

Solutions to a defi ciency * If the EC value of the substrate or the soil is too high, it can be easily rinsed out with pure and if necessary acidified water. * Additional calcium can be applied through the nutrient solution by means of liquid lime fertilisers such as a calcium nitrate solution. With an excessively acidic soil, lime milk can be used to increase the pH. * Use the appropriate soil that is not too acidic. Acid soil often contains insufficient amounts of lime. Good potting soil and Coco substrates are already limed.

21 17/06/10 10:34 AM

Phosphorus

Magnesium

What is it and what does it do?

Holds key position in both cell processes and total energy transfer of the plant. * Also a “building block” of among other things, cell walls and DNA.

* The purple/black necroses expand to the leaf’s stem.

The leaf turns, curls considerably and dies off. * The dead leaves are curled and shrivelled, have a typical ochre purple colour, and fall off. * The plant flowers fully, but the yield will be minimal.

What can you see? * Small plant with purple/black necrotic leaf parts.

Reasons for a deficiency Due to the low concentrations in which phosphate appears in nature, the affinity of plant cells for phosphorous allows easy absorption through the whole root. Therefore, shortages do not happen very often, except when:

* Leafs become malformed and shrivelled.

What can you do? * Mix inorganic phosphate fertilizer THOROUGHLY through the soil.

About phosphorus in short Phosphorus plays an important role for all living organisms and is an essential nutrient element for plants and animals. It has a key position in the combustion processes of the cell, and in the total energy transfer of the plant. It is also a “building block” of the cell walls, the DNA, and all sorts of proteins and enzymes. For young plants, the presence of phosphate is indispensable; about 3/4 of the phosphorus consumed during a plant’s life cycle is absorbed in the first quarter of its life. The largest concentrations of phosphorus are found in the developing parts of the plant: the roots, the growth shoots and the vascular tissue.

• The growing medium has too high a pH (higher than pH 7). In such cases the plant cannot absorb phosphorus due to the fact that insoluble phosphorous compounds develop.

• The ground is too acidic, or too rich in iron and zinc. This hinders the absorption of phosphate.

• The soil has become fixated. Phosphate cannot be absorbed anymore.

Solutions to a deficiency Always use inorganic phosphates as these are easy to absorb. Also always mix the phosphate fertilizer THOROUGHLY through the soil.

When pH is too high, acidify • the medium by using a thinned solution of phosphoric acid.

Symptoms of a deficiency Plants remains rather small with purple/ black necrotic leaf parts, which later on become malformed and shrivelled.

• Choose products that have a guaranteed phosphate percentage on the packaging instead of alternative phosphate-containing products like guano or manure.

Development of a deficiency * At first, the plant becomes dark green - a different sort of dark green (blue/green) as appears when there is a shortage of potassium

* Magnesium is indispensable to plants.

affected

and

flower

Reasons for a deficiency

* Represents a building block for chlorophyll.

The magnesium deficiency can occur because uptake is inhibited because of: * A very wet, cold and/or acidic root environment.

* Is essential for photosynthesis.

What can you see? * Rusty brown spots.

* A high quantity of potassium, ammonia and/or calcium (for instance high concentrations of calcium carbonate in drinking water, or clay soils rich in calcium) in comparison with the quantity of magnesium.

* Cloudy, vague yellow spots between the veins.

What can you do? * Spray with a 2% solution of Epsom salts every 4-5 days for about a week.

* A limited root system and heavy plant demands.

About magnesium in short Magnesium is an indispensable element for plants. In plants, it represents a building block for chlorophyll (leaf green), and therefore, it is essential for photosynthesis. At the same time, magnesium plays an important role in the energy transfer.

Together with calcium, it is also a component of tap water, influencing water hardness. Inorganic magnesium fertilisers are produced using the same bases that are used to produce potassium fertilisers.

Symptoms of a deficiency When there is a shortage, the leaf green in the medium-old leaves under the flowering top will be broken up, and the magnesium will be transported into the young parts of the plant. This breakdown is visible as rusty brown spots and/or vague, cloudy, yellow spots between the veins.

A slight shortage of magnesium hardly affects flowering, although the development of the flowers makes the deficiency symptoms worse.

* Signs of a deficiency first appear around the 4th6th week. Small, rusty brown spots and/or cloudy yellow flecks appear in the middle-aged leaves (under the top of the plant). The colour of the young leaves and the fruit development are not affected.

* A high EC in the growing medium, which hinders evaporation.

Solutions to a deficiency * When a shortage is diagnosed, the best thing to do is spray with a 2% solution of Epsom salts. * Fertilisation via the roots: Inorganic: Epsom salts on hydroponics or kieserite (magnesium sulphate monohydrate). Organic: composted turkey or cow manure.

Recovery Rectify the possible causes: In soil, when the pH is too low (less than 5), use magnesium containing calcium fertilisers. On hydro, temporarily apply a nutrient solution with a higher pH (6.5).

When the EC is too high, rinse and/or temporarily feed with drinking water only. When growing indoors, keep the root temperature between 20 - 25 degrees Celsius.

A little extra magnesium is not particularly harmful.

When growing in soil, excessive quantities of magnesium do not appear quickly. Too much magnesium inhibits the uptake of calcium. The plant will then display general symptoms of an excess of salts which you can see as stunted growth, and dark-coloured vegetation.

* The size and number of rust-brown spots on the leaves increase.

* After 2 to 3 weeks, dark purple/ black necrotic spots appear on the old and medium-old leaves, making the leaves malformed.

Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 22-23

younger leaves are also production will be reduced.

Development of a deficiency

* The growth in height, and the development of the plant’s side shoots are inhibited.

22

What is it and what does it do?

* The symptoms spread out over the whole plant, which looks ill. When the shortage becomes acute, the

Infopaper

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Infopaper

23 17/06/10 10:35 AM

Phosphorus

Magnesium

What is it and what does it do?

Holds key position in both cell processes and total energy transfer of the plant. * Also a “building block” of among other things, cell walls and DNA.

* The purple/black necroses expand to the leaf’s stem.

The leaf turns, curls considerably and dies off. * The dead leaves are curled and shrivelled, have a typical ochre purple colour, and fall off. * The plant flowers fully, but the yield will be minimal.

What can you see? * Small plant with purple/black necrotic leaf parts.

Reasons for a deficiency Due to the low concentrations in which phosphate appears in nature, the affinity of plant cells for phosphorous allows easy absorption through the whole root. Therefore, shortages do not happen very often, except when:

* Leafs become malformed and shrivelled.

What can you do? * Mix inorganic phosphate fertilizer THOROUGHLY through the soil.

About phosphorus in short Phosphorus plays an important role for all living organisms and is an essential nutrient element for plants and animals. It has a key position in the combustion processes of the cell, and in the total energy transfer of the plant. It is also a “building block” of the cell walls, the DNA, and all sorts of proteins and enzymes. For young plants, the presence of phosphate is indispensable; about 3/4 of the phosphorus consumed during a plant’s life cycle is absorbed in the first quarter of its life. The largest concentrations of phosphorus are found in the developing parts of the plant: the roots, the growth shoots and the vascular tissue.

• The growing medium has too high a pH (higher than pH 7). In such cases the plant cannot absorb phosphorus due to the fact that insoluble phosphorous compounds develop.

• The ground is too acidic, or too rich in iron and zinc. This hinders the absorption of phosphate.

• The soil has become fixated. Phosphate cannot be absorbed anymore.

Solutions to a deficiency Always use inorganic phosphates as these are easy to absorb. Also always mix the phosphate fertilizer THOROUGHLY through the soil.

When pH is too high, acidify • the medium by using a thinned solution of phosphoric acid.

Symptoms of a deficiency Plants remains rather small with purple/ black necrotic leaf parts, which later on become malformed and shrivelled.

• Choose products that have a guaranteed phosphate percentage on the packaging instead of alternative phosphate-containing products like guano or manure.

Development of a deficiency * At first, the plant becomes dark green - a different sort of dark green (blue/green) as appears when there is a shortage of potassium

* Magnesium is indispensable to plants.

affected

and

flower

Reasons for a deficiency

* Represents a building block for chlorophyll.

The magnesium deficiency can occur because uptake is inhibited because of: * A very wet, cold and/or acidic root environment.

* Is essential for photosynthesis.

What can you see? * Rusty brown spots.

* A high quantity of potassium, ammonia and/or calcium (for instance high concentrations of calcium carbonate in drinking water, or clay soils rich in calcium) in comparison with the quantity of magnesium.

* Cloudy, vague yellow spots between the veins.

What can you do? * Spray with a 2% solution of Epsom salts every 4-5 days for about a week.

* A limited root system and heavy plant demands.

About magnesium in short Magnesium is an indispensable element for plants. In plants, it represents a building block for chlorophyll (leaf green), and therefore, it is essential for photosynthesis. At the same time, magnesium plays an important role in the energy transfer.

Together with calcium, it is also a component of tap water, influencing water hardness. Inorganic magnesium fertilisers are produced using the same bases that are used to produce potassium fertilisers.

Symptoms of a deficiency When there is a shortage, the leaf green in the medium-old leaves under the flowering top will be broken up, and the magnesium will be transported into the young parts of the plant. This breakdown is visible as rusty brown spots and/or vague, cloudy, yellow spots between the veins.

A slight shortage of magnesium hardly affects flowering, although the development of the flowers makes the deficiency symptoms worse.

* Signs of a deficiency first appear around the 4th6th week. Small, rusty brown spots and/or cloudy yellow flecks appear in the middle-aged leaves (under the top of the plant). The colour of the young leaves and the fruit development are not affected.

* A high EC in the growing medium, which hinders evaporation.

Solutions to a deficiency * When a shortage is diagnosed, the best thing to do is spray with a 2% solution of Epsom salts. * Fertilisation via the roots: Inorganic: Epsom salts on hydroponics or kieserite (magnesium sulphate monohydrate). Organic: composted turkey or cow manure.

Recovery Rectify the possible causes: In soil, when the pH is too low (less than 5), use magnesium containing calcium fertilisers. On hydro, temporarily apply a nutrient solution with a higher pH (6.5).

When the EC is too high, rinse and/or temporarily feed with drinking water only. When growing indoors, keep the root temperature between 20 - 25 degrees Celsius.

A little extra magnesium is not particularly harmful.

When growing in soil, excessive quantities of magnesium do not appear quickly. Too much magnesium inhibits the uptake of calcium. The plant will then display general symptoms of an excess of salts which you can see as stunted growth, and dark-coloured vegetation.

* The size and number of rust-brown spots on the leaves increase.

* After 2 to 3 weeks, dark purple/ black necrotic spots appear on the old and medium-old leaves, making the leaves malformed.

Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 22-23

younger leaves are also production will be reduced.

Development of a deficiency

* The growth in height, and the development of the plant’s side shoots are inhibited.

22

What is it and what does it do?

* The symptoms spread out over the whole plant, which looks ill. When the shortage becomes acute, the

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Infopaper

23 17/06/10 10:35 AM

Iron

Nitrogen

What is it and what does it do?

Iron has a number of important functions in the plant’s overall metabolism and is essential for the synthesis of chlorophyll.

* Continued yellowing of the leaves to sometimes almost white. Also, large leaves turn yellow. This inhibits growth. * In serious cases the leaves show necrosis, and the plant’s growth and flowering are inhibited.

What can you see?

Strong yellowing of especially the young leaves and growth shoots between the veins. The way to determine whether it is iron or nitrogen is by looking at the location of the yellowing leaves.

Iron deficiency occurs on the new growth, toward the tips. Nitrogen occurs from the bottom of the plant on the old growth.

Reasons for a deficiency * The pH in the root environment is too high (pH> 6,5). * The root environment contains a lot of zinc and/or manganese. * The concentration of iron is too low in the root environment. * The root temperature is low.

What can you do?

The best thing is to spray the plants with a watery solution of EDDHA or EDTA chelates.

About iron in short Iron is a vital element for plant life. Iron has a number of important functions in the overall metabolism of the plant and is essential for the synthesis of chlorophyll. In general, iron is poorly absorbed by the plant. It can only be sufficiently taken up by the roots in certain forms and under proper conditions. Soil seldom contains too little iron, but it is possible that forms of iron that can be absorbed by the plant are lacking. The absorbency of iron is strongly dependent on the pH. Ordinarily, there is sufficient iron present in absorbable form in acidic soils.

Symptoms of a deficiency Iron deficiency can occur during periods of heavy growth or high plant stress and is characterised by a strong yellowing of the young leaves and the growth shoots between the veins. This occurs chiefly because iron is not mobile in the plant. The young leaves can’t draw any iron from the older leaves. With a serious iron shortage, the older leaves and the smaller veins in the leaf can also turn yellow.

* The root medium is too wet, causing the oxygen supply in the roots to stagnate. * The root system functions inefficiently due to damaged, infected or dead roots. * There is too much light on the nutrition tank; light promotes the growth of algae. Algae also use up the iron and break down iron chelates.

Solutions to a deficiency * Lower the pH. * Iron chelates can be added to the substrate. *

Drainage can be improved, or the ground temperature can be increased.

* A leaf nutrient with iron chelates can possibly be applied. If a good fertiliser is used with hydroponic growing, an iron deficiency is almost out of the question. * The best thing you can do is spray the plants with a watery solution of EDDHA - (max. 0.1 grams per litre) or EDTA chelates (max. 0.5 grams per litre).

Development of a deficiency * Green/yellow chlorosis, from inside to the outside in the younger leaves and in the growth shoots. The veins remain mostly green.

24 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 24-25

Infopaper

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What is it and what does it do?

Development of a deficiency

Nitrogen is a component of enzymes and is therefore involved in all enzyme reactions and plays an active role in the plant’s metabolism.

* Quickly followed by larger leaves in the middle and top parts of the plant. *

What can you see?

* Larger leaves in the lower part of the plant turn light green. The leaf stalks of the smaller leaves now also turn purple.

Typical vertical purple stripes appear in the stem.

Purple stalks, yellowing leaves and leaves fall off.

What can you do? * Raise EC of the feeding or add extra nitrogen.

* Leaves in the lower part of the plant turn more yellow and then become white. Finally, the leaves whither and fall off.

About nitrogen in short Nitrogen is one of the important elements a plant needs. It is an important part of proteins, chlorophyll, vitamins, hormones and DNA. Because it is a component of enzymes, nitrogen is involved in all enzyme reactions and plays an active role in the plant’s metabolism.

Nitrogen is mainly absorbed by the plant in the form of nitrate and ammonium. It can also be absorbed via small organic molecules.

It is important that the balance between nitrate and ammonium is correct in the feeding otherwise the pH in the rhizosphere (environment immediately surrounding the roots) will become too high or too low.

Plants with nitrate as their source of nitrogen have a higher organic acid content. This has an influence on the taste and storage life of the harvest among other things. Nitrate is converted into ammonium in the plant by the nitroreductase enzyme. Ammonium is then assimilated into organic molecules. Nitrogen has a positive influence on the plant’s growth. The plant gets bigger leaves, more branches and the vegetative period is extended.

* The growth is visibly inhibited giving shorter plants, thinner stems, less leaf formation and smaller leaves. * Further yellowing and whitening occurs in the top and middle parts of the plant. * Leaves on growing points remain green longer but they are a lot less green than at normal nitrogen levels. * Forced flowering starts and there is substantial leaf loss. * Substantial reduction in yield.

Reasons for a deficiency Deficiency can be caused by incorrect feeding or giving feeding that contains insufficient nutrient elements.

Substrates that contain a lot of fresh organic material can cause nitrogen deficiency because microorganisms bind the nitrogen. A lot of nitrogen can be bound, particularly in the first weeks; this is released later but it is generally too late.

Solutions to a deficiency * Raise the EC of the feeding and rinse the substrate well with it.

Symptoms of a deficiency Stalks will turn purple and leaves will yellow and finally fall off. The major visible symptom of nitrogen deficiency, however, is a colour change from healthy green to pale green or, in extreme cases, yellow. This is primarily because the plant cannot produce sufficient chlorophyll.

Older leaves are affected first, as when faced with a nitrogen deficiency the plant moves nitrogen from older regions to growing regions.

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The plant is a lighter colour as a whole.

* Add nitrogen yourself to the feeding solution by using urea, blood meal, semi-liquid manure or by using a special “mono-nutrient’ product. * Spray the underside of the leaves with a nitrogen solution. This can best be done at the end of the day, just before the lights are turned off. Be careful not to cause burning.

Infopaper

25 17/06/10 10:35 AM

Iron

Nitrogen

What is it and what does it do?

Iron has a number of important functions in the plant’s overall metabolism and is essential for the synthesis of chlorophyll.

* Continued yellowing of the leaves to sometimes almost white. Also, large leaves turn yellow. This inhibits growth. * In serious cases the leaves show necrosis, and the plant’s growth and flowering are inhibited.

What can you see?

Strong yellowing of especially the young leaves and growth shoots between the veins. The way to determine whether it is iron or nitrogen is by looking at the location of the yellowing leaves.

Iron deficiency occurs on the new growth, toward the tips. Nitrogen occurs from the bottom of the plant on the old growth.

Reasons for a deficiency * The pH in the root environment is too high (pH> 6,5). * The root environment contains a lot of zinc and/or manganese. * The concentration of iron is too low in the root environment. * The root temperature is low.

What can you do?

The best thing is to spray the plants with a watery solution of EDDHA or EDTA chelates.

About iron in short Iron is a vital element for plant life. Iron has a number of important functions in the overall metabolism of the plant and is essential for the synthesis of chlorophyll. In general, iron is poorly absorbed by the plant. It can only be sufficiently taken up by the roots in certain forms and under proper conditions. Soil seldom contains too little iron, but it is possible that forms of iron that can be absorbed by the plant are lacking. The absorbency of iron is strongly dependent on the pH. Ordinarily, there is sufficient iron present in absorbable form in acidic soils.

Symptoms of a deficiency Iron deficiency can occur during periods of heavy growth or high plant stress and is characterised by a strong yellowing of the young leaves and the growth shoots between the veins. This occurs chiefly because iron is not mobile in the plant. The young leaves can’t draw any iron from the older leaves. With a serious iron shortage, the older leaves and the smaller veins in the leaf can also turn yellow.

* The root medium is too wet, causing the oxygen supply in the roots to stagnate. * The root system functions inefficiently due to damaged, infected or dead roots. * There is too much light on the nutrition tank; light promotes the growth of algae. Algae also use up the iron and break down iron chelates.

Solutions to a deficiency * Lower the pH. * Iron chelates can be added to the substrate. *

Drainage can be improved, or the ground temperature can be increased.

* A leaf nutrient with iron chelates can possibly be applied. If a good fertiliser is used with hydroponic growing, an iron deficiency is almost out of the question. * The best thing you can do is spray the plants with a watery solution of EDDHA - (max. 0.1 grams per litre) or EDTA chelates (max. 0.5 grams per litre).

Development of a deficiency * Green/yellow chlorosis, from inside to the outside in the younger leaves and in the growth shoots. The veins remain mostly green.

24 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 24-25

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au

What is it and what does it do?

Development of a deficiency

Nitrogen is a component of enzymes and is therefore involved in all enzyme reactions and plays an active role in the plant’s metabolism.

* Quickly followed by larger leaves in the middle and top parts of the plant. *

What can you see?

* Larger leaves in the lower part of the plant turn light green. The leaf stalks of the smaller leaves now also turn purple.

Typical vertical purple stripes appear in the stem.

Purple stalks, yellowing leaves and leaves fall off.

What can you do? * Raise EC of the feeding or add extra nitrogen.

* Leaves in the lower part of the plant turn more yellow and then become white. Finally, the leaves whither and fall off.

About nitrogen in short Nitrogen is one of the important elements a plant needs. It is an important part of proteins, chlorophyll, vitamins, hormones and DNA. Because it is a component of enzymes, nitrogen is involved in all enzyme reactions and plays an active role in the plant’s metabolism.

Nitrogen is mainly absorbed by the plant in the form of nitrate and ammonium. It can also be absorbed via small organic molecules.

It is important that the balance between nitrate and ammonium is correct in the feeding otherwise the pH in the rhizosphere (environment immediately surrounding the roots) will become too high or too low.

Plants with nitrate as their source of nitrogen have a higher organic acid content. This has an influence on the taste and storage life of the harvest among other things. Nitrate is converted into ammonium in the plant by the nitroreductase enzyme. Ammonium is then assimilated into organic molecules. Nitrogen has a positive influence on the plant’s growth. The plant gets bigger leaves, more branches and the vegetative period is extended.

* The growth is visibly inhibited giving shorter plants, thinner stems, less leaf formation and smaller leaves. * Further yellowing and whitening occurs in the top and middle parts of the plant. * Leaves on growing points remain green longer but they are a lot less green than at normal nitrogen levels. * Forced flowering starts and there is substantial leaf loss. * Substantial reduction in yield.

Reasons for a deficiency Deficiency can be caused by incorrect feeding or giving feeding that contains insufficient nutrient elements.

Substrates that contain a lot of fresh organic material can cause nitrogen deficiency because microorganisms bind the nitrogen. A lot of nitrogen can be bound, particularly in the first weeks; this is released later but it is generally too late.

Solutions to a deficiency * Raise the EC of the feeding and rinse the substrate well with it.

Symptoms of a deficiency Stalks will turn purple and leaves will yellow and finally fall off. The major visible symptom of nitrogen deficiency, however, is a colour change from healthy green to pale green or, in extreme cases, yellow. This is primarily because the plant cannot produce sufficient chlorophyll.

Older leaves are affected first, as when faced with a nitrogen deficiency the plant moves nitrogen from older regions to growing regions.

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The plant is a lighter colour as a whole.

* Add nitrogen yourself to the feeding solution by using urea, blood meal, semi-liquid manure or by using a special “mono-nutrient’ product. * Spray the underside of the leaves with a nitrogen solution. This can best be done at the end of the day, just before the lights are turned off. Be careful not to cause burning.

Infopaper

25 17/06/10 10:35 AM

Potassium

* Controls countless other processes such as the carbohydrate system.

What can you see?

* An extreme shortage produces meagre, unhealthylooking plants with strongly reduced fl owering.

Reasons for a defi ciency *

Too little, of fertilizer.

or

the

wrong

type

* Growing in potassium-fi xed soils.

Dead edges of the leaves.

* An excess of sodium (kitchen salt) in the root environment, as sodium slows down potassium intake.

What can you do? * In case the EC in the substrate or soil is high, you can rinse it with clean water.

It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transport and the opening and closing of the stomas. Potassium takes care of the strength and the quality of the plant and controls countless other processes such as the carbohydrate system. Potassium has many general functions in plants. It is involved in the synthesis of proteins, where it plays several roles, including the assisting in the transport of amino acids to the sites of protein synthesis.

Potassium activates a number of enzymes, including those involved in the synthesis of carbohydrates, and is also involved in the neutralisation of organic acids and the promotion of normal cell division and growth.

Symptoms of a defi ciency

Development of a defi ciency * Tips of the younger leaves show grey edges. * Leaves turn yellow from the edge in the direction of the veins and rusty-coloured dead spots appear in the leaves.

Pack valued at more than

* In case the EC in the substrate or soil is high, you can rinse with water.

1600

$

* Add potassium yourself, either in inorganic form: Dissolve 5 – 10 grams of potassium nitrate in 10 litres of water. In acidic soils, you can add potassium bicarbonate or potassium hydroxide (5ml in 10 litres of water). * Add potassium in organic form: Add a water solution of wood ash, chicken manure or slurry of manure (be careful not to burn the roots).

Extracts of the grape family also contain a lot of potassium.

For your information * Potassium is absorbed quickly and easily by the plant. In a hydroponic system results get visible within several days.

Potassium supplementation by leaf fertilization is not recommended.

IZE TO ENTER GO TO WWW.CANNA.COM.AU/PR IG YIELD’ OR CALL 1800 422 662 AND QUOTE ’MY B

* Too much potassium will cause salt damage, calcium and magnesium deficiencies and acidification of the root environment!

Plants can happily take up more potassium than they require, and this is not toxic to the plant.

However, if too much potassium is applied to plants it can result in magnesium or calcium deficiencies in plants, because of competition amongst these nutrients.

* The tips of the leaves curl up radically and whole sections of the leaves begin to rot. The leaves keep on curling and ultimately fall off.

1

DUTCH

Toxicity symptoms GRO

Evaporation is reduced if there is a shortage of potassium. A consequence is that the temperature in the leaves will increase and the cells will burn.

This occurs mostly on the edges of the leaves, where normally, evaporation is highest.

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Solutions to a defi ciency

* Add potassium yourself.

About potassium in short

WIN THE ULTIMATE * HYDROPONIC PACKAGE!

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What is it and what does it do?

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Visit www.canna.com.au/offer to download your voucher now!

$50 Cash Back The bearer of this voucher is entitled to $10 OFF the next purchase of a CANNA® Terra® comb o set* Try it and you’ll see the difference! *If you want $10 off simply purchase one each of the amazing CANNA® Terra ® Vega ® , Terra ® Flores ® and contact details and original store Terra ® Professional bag in a single receipt (clearly showing products transaction and mail in this voucher purchased, date/time & store of with your purchase) to Bloem Max Yeild, PO Box 1816 Subiaco WA 6904. Offer ends 31/12/10.

26 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 26-27

Infopaper

www.canna.com.au 17/06/10 10:36 AM

WIN THE ULTIMATE HYDROPONIC PACKAGE! Enter Now! Pack valued at more than

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IZE TO ENTER GO TO WWW.CANNA.COM.AU/PR

OR CALL 1800 422 662 AND QUOTE ’MAX

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$50 Cash Back The bearer of this voucher is entitled to $50 OFF the next purchase of a CANNA® Terra® combo set* Try it and you’ll see the difference! *If you want $50 off simply purchas e one each of the amazing CANNA® Terra ® Vega ® , Terra ® Flores ® and contact details and original store Terra ® Professional bag in a single receipt (clearly showing product transaction and mail in this vouche s purchased, date/time & store of r with your purchase) to Bloem Max Yeild, PO Box 1816 Subiaco WA 6904. Offer ends 31/12/10.

Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 27

18/06/10 2:13 PM

1

Very high EC values increase the chance of burning, particularly for plants that are directly under the lamp. In order to reduce the risk of burning, the can be rinsed with CANNAZYM® (pH 5.8 acidify with pH).

4

Change from TERRA® VEGA® to TERRA® FLORES® when the flowers begin to develop. Normally speaking this will be after the plants have been lit for 12 hours per day, for between 1 and 3 weeks.

2

5 6

3

7

Do you have problems with cheap potting mixes that become compressed and then absorb water with difficulty? This can be easily overcome by mixing CANNA® COCO with the mix, which will ensure that it can absorb water easily again.

To ensure good root development the feeding water must have a temperature that lies between 20-25 °C. At temperatures lower than 15 °C the roots’ capacity to absorb decreases quickly, which will result in a smaller harvest. If the feeding solution is mixed using cold water then the pH will rise when the water is heated.

In this instance, a high pH can be avoided by setting the pH a little lower in the beginning.

Terra

Never dilute more CANNAZYM® than will be used within 10 days.

Take your time diluting and adjusting your nutrient tank!

This is essential for the growth, flowering and development of the plants and will yield the best results.

Foliar feeding with RHIZOTONIC is most efficient when this is carried out around the time that the lights go out when cultivating inside, or just before sunset when cultivating outside. ®

8

CANNAZYM® can be given continually and this is most easily achieved by mixing it with the feeding in the proportion of 2.5 ml/litre; 1:400, or it can be given once a week in the proportion of 10 ml/litre; 1:100. A further possibility is to add the CANNAZYM® to the nutrient

tank when it is just 25% full at 10 ml/ litre; 1:100. CANNAZYM® also makes the potting medium more suitable for reuse.

9

Do you want to raise or lower the pH by using pH+ or pH-?

Then dilute a small amount of pH+ or pH- in a cup to make judging the dosage easier. Try to get the pH right the first time. Using a lot of pH+ or pH- one after the other will disrupt the concentration of bicarbonate in the water and affect its buffering capacities negatively.

10

The more nutrients that has been added to the potting medium in advance, the more difficult it will be for cuttings to take. This problem can be avoided by using CANNA® Terra® Professional.

11

Prevent the accumulation of phosphate and potassium by using PK 13-14® no more than once a week.

GROW

Light per day (hours)

Terra Vega

Terra Flores

RHIZOTONIC

CANNAZYM

BioBOOST

PK 13/14

ml/L

ml/L

ml/L

ml/L

ml/L

ml/L

Start Root formation - Duration +/- 1 week

18

1-3

-

4

-

-

-

0.2 - 0.6

Vegetative stage - Duration +/- 1 to 3 weekss

18

3-5

-

1-2

2.5

--

-

0.6 - 1.0

Generative stage - Duration +/- 1 to 3 weekss

12

3-5

-

1-2

2.5

--

-

0.6 - 1.0

Bloom Stage 1

12

-

3.5 - 4.5

0.5

2.5

2-4

-

1.0 - 1.3

Bloom Stage 2

- Duration +/- 1 week When small fruit & flower buds develop.

12

-

3.5 - 5

0.5

2.5

2-4

15

1.1 - 1.4

Bloom Stage 3

- Duration +/- 2 to 3 weeks As fruit & flower buds increase in size.

12

-

3.5 - 4.5

0.5

2.5

2-4

-

1.0 - 1.3

Bloom Stage 4

12

-

-

-

2.5

2-4

-

0

Fast growth

Fast growth

- Duration +/- 1 to 2 weeks

Growth stagnates. First signs of fruit and flower formation.

BLOOM

- Duration +/- 1 to 2 weeks

c

During the final week.

EC+

IP_TERRA_AUS 000001001015 0509

Growing Tips

The recommended EC levels are based on a tap water EC of 0.0 mS/cm. If your tap water EC is 0.5 the recommended EC from the table should be 0.5 higher. Maximum EC level is 2.8 mS/cm. Recommended pH 5.2-6.2

CANNA - Your reliable source of information.

If this leaflet has been of benefit, you may also find these other sources of information interesting: CANNA® product leaflets for CANNA® Terra®, Rhizotonic®, Cannazym®, PK 13-14® and CANNABOOST®.

28 Terra Infopaper_MY_V4.0.indd 28

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heating element in the tank (to 21ยบC) or put heating mats under the stonewool. If you have trouble getting the plant to set flowers/fruit try to make a greater difference between night and day temperature. If that is not enough, increase CO2 injection during daytime.

A common problem Calcium deficit If the youngest leaves are curled downward, more than likely it indicates a calcium deficiency. If old leaves are curled; something is probably wrong in the root zone (which also reduces the calcium uptake) Calcium deficiency in leaves.

Calcium deficiency is the result of insufficient water movement through the plant. Remember, calcium only travels in the water stream of the plant, not in the nutrient stream. Therefore, calcium deficiency is usually (90 per cent of the time) related to the climate in the growing area. High humidity will prevent calcium uptake even if there is sufficient Ca in the feed solution. Also, large day/night fluctuations in humidity will disrupt the Ca flow within the plant and lead to blossom-end rot (BER).

Another cause of BER or obvious Ca deficiency in the leaves is poor root development.

This is a result of low substrate temperatures Ca deficiency in fruit. or the presence of a root pathogen such as pythium or phytophthora. Calcium is taken up by the area of the root immediately behind the root-tip. If the roots are not actively growing, new root tips will not be formed and consequently, Ca uptake will be reduced.

CHECK THE PLANT! Make a habit of taking a close look at your plants every day.

Do they look perky? Look for leaf colour, leaf shape and bugs and then update your journal. If you catch a problem early it can be fixed!

MY

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

33

34

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

35

disease & pest resistant

good leaf density

healthy & stress free

by Trevor Holt

PARENT PLANTS Care and Control

good aesthetics

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MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

When choosing a suitable motherplant you need to look at the following attributes: aesthetics, shape, size, density of leaves, compactness, early maturation, clones well, produces strong plantlets and is disease and pest resistant; and production history.

Your motherplant should be a healthy and stress free parent. Cuttings from a stressed parent may root poorly, grow slowly, produce mutated leaves or produce lower yields.

Generally you should not take more than 20 to 30 per cent of the vegetative material off each motherplant at any one time, and do not take cuttings from the motherplant too often. The motherplant should be allowed two weeks to rejuvenate after each pruning.

To achieve desired results when growing from seed, you must be patient. Select only the strongest genetic stock from your seedlings. A potential motherplant is easily identified as it will be the best performer of the bunch. Keep in mind that seed stock will never produce consistent results that you can expect from cuttings, as they need to first grow to maturity before they show results.

“Nutrients cannot be absorbed until the plant has a root system, so don’t waste your nutrients. ” Helpful Hints • Limit each cloning session to 16 to 20 clones at a time per motherplant.

• Only clone from a motherplant at two week intervals.

• If you have to take cuttings from a plant that is flowering, cut all the flowers off the clone to help reduce plant stress.

• If planting clones outdoors, treat with care and slowly acclimatize them to the natural sunlight.

• Always clean propagation trays thoroughly between cloning sessions. Use a weak cleaning solution as per the directions on the bottle.You would be amazed at how much bacteria and fungal spores can form in your trays. An unclean environment can lead to diseases such as Pythium (root rot).

• Do not reuse the propagation media, which can harbour diseases. Always start with fresh cubes; they are inexpensive and easy to store if kept dry.

• Do not clone from a motherplant that is bug infested.

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The Procedure 1. Provide your seeds and cuttings with the best propagating environment possible; keeping the area clean is paramount.This will ensure a faster strike rate for your seeds and cuttings.

2. High humidity, 18 hours of light, proper air circulation, strict attention to cleanliness and correct bottom heat are absolutely necessary for success.

3. If air in the propagation room is dry, you can mist to raise the humidity. Black leaf edges, black spots on leaves and mushy stems are all indications of too much moisture and poor airflow.

4. It is also essential that you provide adequate bottom heat. If you do, root development will be slow and the chance of plants crashing is increased. Even in sub-tropical areas the night time temperatures can dip below 15°C. Remember to follow the propagation basics: Rootzone temperature: 25°C Humidity: 85 per cent pH Level: 6.3 Nutrient strength: seven CF Ambient temperature: 27°C Seeds and Seedlings All a seed needs to germinate is warmth and moisture. Seeds swell with moisture and then a little miracle happens and the seed begins the plant life process all over again. A seed has all the hormones needed in its husk to strike. Nutrients cannot be absorbed until the plant has a root system, so don’t waste your nutrients. The medium used to germinate a seed must be well draining, but remain moist to the touch. Although moisture levels may vary for different plants, the medium must not be too wet as this will cause the seed to rot.

Within a few days of planting the seeds in the medium, most of the seeds will have started to sprout. Once the seeds sprout, you will need to monitor moisture levels even more closely. At no time during the germination period must the medium be allowed to dry out. Keep your seedlings in a place that has a

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constant warm atmosphere, like a propagation box. This will create a high humidity environment and will cut out the need for daily watering.

Don’t worry if all the seeds haven’t made an appearance, if they are all from the same source, then the others will follow suit within hours; those that don’t are probably duds.

Once a seed has sprouted it is a good idea to give it some indirect light in preparation for its first leaves. Fluorescent grow tubes can be placed close to the tops of the seedlings, about 100 millimetres.

The seedlings will sprout with small leaves (cotyledons or water leaves), but when the first true leaves appear it is a good indication that the seedling now has the beginnings of a root system and you should apply a specific nutrient from now on. The first two weeks of life are critical. If a plant does not have a good start, then the plant likely won’t grow successfully.

Optimum germinating temperatures can vary from seed to seed, but as a guide, 25°C should give you a very good strike rate. Using perlite and vermiculite mixes has been a professional method for many years, although rockwool cubes are becoming the more preferred method to start seeds as they hold their moisture for long periods. Remember that rockwool cubes are impossible to remove from the plant’s roots without pulling most of the roots off too!

When you transplant make sure you plant the seedling into the system with the rockwool cube attached. If they have a root trainer (plastic sleeve) on you can take this off at this time.

“Once a seed has sprouted it is a good idea to give it some indirect light in preparation for its first leaves.”

Seed Raising Success STEP 1. Mix seed and clone starter solution with rootzone accelerant at recommended dosage rates in a bucket of lukewarm water. Pre-soak propagation blocks or medium until saturated.

Gently squeeze the block to get rid of the excess solution.

STEP 2. Place propagation blocks on your netted tray with the black drip tray underneath; you are now ready to plant out your seeds.

STEP 3. Gently place one seed per hole no deeper than five millimetres into the block or medium. Do not close.

STEP 4. Place clear grow top over both trays and do not water at all until all seeds have germinated or within seven days, or whichever is sooner. The seed should strike within seven to 10 days. If seeds do not germinate within 14 days they are either sterile, or they will become weak even if they strike after this time.

STEP 5. When the water leaves or cotyledons, also known as nursery leaves, appear, open vents on the propagation lid half way.

This will stop the seedlings stretching and acclimatize. They should be only moist to touch. Don’t worry if some of the seeds haven’t germinated. If the seed is worth growing it will have germinated within the 14 day time frame.

STEP 6. When the first true leaves have appeared, lift the propagation lid completely off. This stage is called the hardening off period, whereby the plants acclimatize to the environment and the higher intensity lighting is required for this next stage of the growth process.

STEP 7. By now your seedlings should be stretching a little, and a tap root or two should be visible at the bottom of the propagation block. It is important at this stage to keep feeding your young plants every few days and be sure to pour off any excess solution.

MY

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Aeroponic Cloning: Cheaper by the Dozen!

by Susan Slobac

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Aeroponic cloning is a fast way to produce sturdy young plants easily.

An aeroponic cloner uses the same mechanisms for aeroponic gardening in order to get plant cuttings to take root.

The cuttings are held suspended in air, and the bottoms are misted finely with rooting hormone. Because conditions are very clean and completely suited to rooting cuttings, you can expect your 40

cuttings to show good roots in as little as five to 10 days. After this, the young plants can be grown in an aeroponics system, or transferred to a hydroponics system, where the plants will grow in a medium, or they can be potted up in soil in individual four litre pots. Aeroponic cloners are available in several different sizes. A quality aeroponics cloner will come with a tray that will hold anywhere

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QUICK RESULTS In an aeroponic cloning system, you can expect the cuttings to start showing roots in five to 10 days. This speedy process is due in part to the conditions under which the cuttings are grown. Shown above, the supended cuttings are sprayed with a controlled, fine mist of rooting hormone.

from 45, 70 or 165 cuttings, so you can select the size that will best meet your needs. An aeroponic cloner will come with several different components.You can expect to see a submersible pump and micro jets in the system. A reservoir tank will also usually be included, as will some sort of clear cover for the top of the tray.You will use your aeroponics cloner with some type of rooting solution and a water treatment solution to keep the water clean and fresh. By using aeroponic cloning with hydroponics, you will see rapid growth in your cuttings, strong and healthy root systems will form quickly, giving you quality plants year round.

A QUICK LOOK AT AEROPONIC CLONERS CUTTING TRAY The tray on some cloners can hold well over 100 cuttings. Choose a unit that matches your growth requirements.

MANIFOLD Look for a system that is well contructed and leak-proof.

MICRO JETS These little guys play a key role in delivering measured amounts of nutrients to the cuttings, promising a strong and healthy root system.

RESERVOIR TANK The tank will hold a submersible pump that delivers nutrients to the tray system above.

You may also need a water treatment solution to keep things fresh and clean.

Aeroponics is also a great option for busy garden centers that need to supplement their plant supplies during busy seasons.

Now that spring is here, those in the horticultural and nursery trade have gardeners roaming their store aisles, purchasing new plants for their gardens. It is the nursery owner’s job to make sure that their tables are always well stocked with a variety of plants that appeal to home gardeners.

In addition, there are always special events such as home and garden shows and plant sales that require a large inventory of young plants. This is when you may want to give serious consideration to using an aeroponic cloner to help you produce new plants quickly.

A busy gardening center with a great deal of turnaround on plant sales will likely want one of the larger sizes of aeroponics cloner in order to keep up with demand for young plants.

About the Author:

From years of indoor and hydroponic gardening, Susan Slobac has developed an in-depth knowledge of aeroponic cloning.

MY MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

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by Noucetta Kehdi, GHE

What Can You Grow Hydroponically?

Stevia rebaudiana Bertoni Part II Stevia’s principle characteristics is it’s extreme sweetening power, deemed “sweet grass” by the Guarani Indians.

In this series of articles I describe various plants that I have grown hydroponically and which I know to be of interest in terms of commercial cultivation.

For the first article I chose Arnica montana, that well known medicinal plant, the illegal picking of which is endangering the plants of our mountain grasslands. Today I continue with another plant that I have grown in my greenhouse—Stevia rebaudiana Bertoni, the cultivation of which is easy, the yield plentiful and the market, which is only just coming into being, particularly promising.

Indeed, Stevia has several interesting characteristics: • It is traditionally recognized in many countries for its sweetening and also medicinal power.

• It is easy to grow hydroponically, with attractive results.

• Despite legislation, which continues to be cautious in Europe and the USA, it has every chance of being authorized in the coming years, thus opening up new production alternatives for private and industrial consumption, which will rapidly expand.

• As far as its added value is concerned, we already know that it is extremely profitable, if the figures given on the Internet are to be believed.

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This hardy, sub-tropical plant’s flowers are small and white.

The Plant Stevia rebaudiana Bertoni was named in 1899 by the first scientist to profile it, Dr. Bertoni. It is native to the Rio Monday valley in North Eastern Paraguay and belongs to the Asteraceae family. Its principle characteristic is its extreme sweetening power. It is also recognized as having a number of therapeutic properties, particularly for fighting obesity, diabetes and hypertension. It has been used since the mists of time by the Guarani Indians to sweeten mate, their traditional infusion. They call it caá-êhê or “sweet grass.”

Stevia principally contains steviosides and rebaudiosides. The intensity of its sweetness and its taste are proportionally dependent on its content of four major diterpenic glycosides found in the leaves, veins and stems: Stevioside (five to 10 per cent), Rebaudioside A (two to four per cent), Rebaudioside C (one to two per cent) and Dulcoside A (0.5 to one per cent). These glycosides are between 40 and 250 times sweeter that the sugar we commonly consume. Steviosides are rather bitter, whilst rebaudiosides are sweet.

Growing in an aeroponic system, this young Stevia is not yet showing any bloom formation.

Stevia is a small, dense shrub of roughly 50 to 80 centimetres in height when growing wild, reaching up to one metre in height when cultivated. It has intense green lanceolate leaves growing diametrically opposite on the stem. Its flowers are small and white and its tiny seed plentiful yet difficult to germinate.

The roots are fibrous and dense. The part used is the leaf, bearing in mind that from the time the plant starts budding its active principle concentration decreases.

It is a hardy sub-tropical plant, which is affected by frost. Its ideal temperature is between 15 and 26째C. It likes light and should be placed in full sunlight when outdoors. Indoors, MH or HPS lamps are recommended, but neon, which is more economical, can also be used. It needs little in the way of fertilizers so it can be grown on relatively poor land, bearing in mind that it does, however, need significant amounts of phosphate. It must be watered regularly as it likes moisture. It can be harvested up

Started from seedlings, the Stevia has developed into large-leafed, beautifully lush plants.

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What Can You grow Hydroponically? Stevia Rebaudiana Berton - Part II

Stevia shown here is thriving in an aeroponic grow system.

to five times a year for around six years, especially if you care for the roots appropriately and cut the plant right back after each harvest.

I have been growing Stevia successfully for many years but without ever attempting commercial cultivation. I have grown it using a variety of hydroponic systems. Since the plant likes little nitrogen and more phosphate it is a perfect candidate for biological cultivation.

Growing Stevia is not always easy. For a start you have to germinate the seeds. I have sown them in very large quantities only to achieve limited results. Therefore, I prefer to take cuttings, which is more successful.You can also split it at the end of the season, which seems to be the best means of reproduction. Nevertheless, my plants remain rather small in relation to the metre-high cultivated shrubs referred to in the literature. Mine seldom exceeds 50 to 70 centimetres. It must be said that, as commercial cultivation was not my aim, I did not force the plants but rather was happy to develop shrubs that were just large enough for personal consumption. My plants are, however, beautiful, large-leafed, deep green in colour and extremely lush.

Stevia’s known enemies are primarily aphids and slugs. The literature talks of Septoriosis, a fungal disease that is believed to be the cause of significant crop loss but which, fortunately, I have not yet experienced. My plants have been affected by whitefly, those little flies that can be particularly destructive. I fought them using Macrolophus caliginosus, one of their natural predators.

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The old leaves are the richest in active principles. The harvest must take place before budding begins.You must, therefore, cut the plant back before fall, when it starts to bud. It can be cut back often in order to preserve it over time and thus get several harvests in a year. Fresh leaves can be used. They have a rather strong taste, similar to that of liquorice. But it is generally used in its dried powder form. It is also converted in some countries and comes in the forms of both a white crystalline powder and an extremely concentrated liquid extract. The leaves are dried in the shade, in a ventilated space and below 40°C, in order to preserve them for as long as possible. In order to prepare it for consumption the well dried, crisp leaves must be crushed in a coffee mill. This leaves you with a more or less finely ground green powder that can be added to coffee and infusions and that can also be used in cooking since it remains stable when faced with pH variations and high temperatures.

If you live in a country where it is forbidden to consume it, you should not do so. In October 2008, FSANZ, the Australian food authority, finally approved Stevia (www.steviacafe. net). But anywhere else, in a private capacity, there is nothing to prevent you from growing your own Stevia plant at home, on your balcony or indoors. The result will be your own plant, the quality of which will be in your control, and which you can use to sweeten your infusions. In order to avoid consuming too much of it, it is recommended that you start with very small doses and adapt it to individual tastes. However, care should be taken when using it for therapeutic purposes; it is always best to consult a doctor before beginning any self-treatment as plants can also be harmful.

Shown here in a DPS hydroponic system, the Stevia grows lush thanks to an organic feed regime.

This large Stevia plant has come to the end of its flowering cycle, showing crisp leaves that may be crushed and added to coffee or used in cooking.

Is Stevia dangerous, then? Why should this interest us? Stevia is a natural product, which contains zero calories, especially when consumed in the form of dried leaves. It has become increasingly successful over the past few years, primarily due to its sweetening power but also because of its therapeutic properties. Stevia does indeed seem harmless and can be an advantageous replacement for sugar and especially its substitutes such as aspartames, saccharins and cyclamates, the extreme dangers of which are now recognized. It also seems that it can be used for hypertension, digestive problems, obesity and oral hygiene and that it is of particular interest to diabetics, who can safely consume it.

The tribes of South America (Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay) have been using Stevia for centuries for its sweetening and therapeutic powers with no apparent problems thus far. There is much scientific research today, particularly in Australia and Thailand, which does not show the plant to involve any danger. Nevertheless it remains a risk for the health services in some countries, especially in the west. It is a very controversial plant in Europe and the United States especially, where they insist on its potentially dangerous side and where further in-depth studies are awaited. A European law exists that documents 300DO196 dated February 22, 2000, relating to the refusal of marketing authorization for “Stevia rebaudiana Bertoni, in plant and dried leaf form, as a new foodstuff or food ingredient in accordance with the European Parliament’s regulation CE N° 258/97” (gireaud.net/stevia.htm).

However, various sources on the Internet confirm it can be consumed and you can buy the fresh plant from many nurseries throughout Europe.

Some explain its prohibition by the fact that the sugar industry (beet and cane), which is particularly dynamic in our countries, does not wish to be superseded by Stevia. The economic interests are indeed immense.

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Stevia shown here is being grown in a DPS hydroponic system.

In 1970, the Japanese government banned the use of synthetic sweeteners and allowed the marketing of natural steviosides.

The Japanese have been using Stevia in extract and powder form for nearly 40 years and have thus far found no drawbacks in its consumption. It represents 40 per cent of the sweetener market in Japan and Korea and an increasing number of countries, such as China, Taiwan, Thailand and Malaysia, are consuming it. Large-scale production of Stevia is already underway in Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay, Central America, the United States, Canada, England, Lebanon and Israel among other countries. China and Brazil alone are responsible for 90 per cent of the global production.

Harvests vary between 3,300 and 6,600 pounds per hectare.

For Stevia extract alone the market is estimated at 1.5 billion kilos, converted from 12 million kilos of leaves.You can also see the multitude of offers of Stevia in all its forms on the Internet and the plant form already has attractive outlets wherever its sale is authorized.

All this goes to show that this market has huge potential. A hydroponic greenhouse produces around a further 30 per cent of harvests. When used correctly, fertilizers can guarantee a high quality plant, which is rich in active principles. We have the know-how to do this. In 2000, the Department of Pharmacognosy in Toulouse analysed and compared crops from my greenhouse with outstanding results. The commercial farming of Stevia can thus be viewed as a new alternative to traditional cultivation, which would enable a new income to be generated in a society which needs all its resources to create solid and beneficial wealth.

MY Visit www.maximumyield.com for an in-depth analysis of the cutting and care of Stevia rebaudiana.

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Understanding and using

trichoderma fungi

by Donald Lester

There are many species of fungi, bacteria, viruses and protozoa commercially available for the biological control of insects, diseases and weeds. Some products offer mixtures of different organisms. This article will cover one particularly easy-to-use type of fungi that occurs naturally in soil and helps control soil diseases and break down crop residues to makes otherwise unavailable soil nutrients available to plants—Trichoderma.

Trichoderma fungi have many positive effects on plants: increased growth and yield, increased nutrient uptake, increased fertilizer utilization efficiency, increased percentage and rate of seed germination and induced systemic resistance to plant diseases (Harman et al., 2004). Moreover, their use as biological control agents is due to their modes of action: competition, parasitism, production of inhibitory compounds and enzymes or inactivation of the pathogen’s enzyme systems. Trichoderma actively take over a root zone and make it difficult for pathogens to compete for space on the roots and for nutrients. And in terms of parasitism, Trichoderma coils around the hyphae of pathogenic fungi and then produces enzymes to dissolve the pathogen’s cell walls.

There is another kind of beneficial fungi that is commercially available to growers and also covers the roots to physically prevent disease infection and make nutrients available to the roots—Mycorrhizae. People often confuse the two fungi but Mycorrhizal fungi are not parasitic like Trichoderma fungi.

Trichoderma fungi produce powerful enzymes to dissolve crop residues and attack soil pathogens like Pythium, Fusarium and Rhizoctonia. Trichoderma produces two main types of enzymes: cellulase and chitinase. Cellulose is a major

component in plant fibres and crop residues. The enzyme cellulase breaks down cellulose. Similarly, chitin is a structural component in fungal cell walls. It is a strong material that is also a key component in insect exoskeletons. The enzyme chitinase breaks down chitin though Trichoderma is not known to attack insects. Trichoderma switches back and forth on which enzymes to produce depending on the type of food source available. For example, when fresh bark is used in composts, Trichoderma fungi do not directly attack the plant pathogen Rhizoctonia solani. But, in decomposing bark the amount of readily available cellulose decreases, which activates the chitinase genes of Trichoderma, which in turn produce chitinase to parasitize Rhizoctonia solani (Benhamou and Chet 1997). What this means is that in the spring time when temperatures are low and pathogen activity is low Trichoderma will feed on the readily available cellulose from crop residues. Later in the season when the crop residues are exhausted and the pathogen load has increased Trichoderma will switch over to parasitizing the pathogens.

It should be emphasized that the enzymes produced by Trichoderma are industrial strength compounds. Many people are unaware that their stone washed blue jeans are made using Trichoderma. There is no such thing as a true stone washed blue jean because no stones are used in the manufacturing process. Rather, the manufacturer puts denim jeans into a vat of Trichoderma reesii until the cellulase enzymes break down the denim to give the desired, faded, worn appearance (University of Wisconsin).

“Trichoderma actively takes over a root zone and makes it difficult for pathogens to compete for space on the roots and for nutrients.”

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Trichoderma does have a bad side. It is not only a powerful biological control agent, but it is a major pest in commercial mushroom production. There it is known as “green mould.�

The powerful enzyme chitinase produced by Trichoderma creates big problems in commercial mushroom farms.

If Trichoderma exists naturally in the soil then why should you have to add more of what is already there?

Trichoderma fungi in nature are lost due to soil disturbances such as mining, construction or erosion; strong acid or chemical treatments; pesticides, excessive heat, drought, or flooding; and denial of oxygen or water by asphalt, concrete, soil compaction and roads. In indoor gardens Trichoderma should be added to potting soils to restore healthy population levels lost due to soil sterilization, the use of strong chemical sanitizers, waterlogged soils low in oxygen and excessive fertilization.

The optimum temperature range for Trichoderma harzianum is between 30 to 37oC, whereas Trichoderma koningii has an optimal range between 32 to 35oC (Danielson and Davey).

Once soil temperatures exceed 15oC, this is the best timing for Trichoderma to be introduced into the soil.

Trichoderma has a lifecycle of about 28 days. It is self replicating but like any lifecycle it becomes weak. Therefore, it is necessary to re-apply the product to maintain strength.

Many people are unaware that their stone washed blue jeans are made using trichoderma.

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Understanding and using trichoderma fungi

Trichoderma is non-toxic to plants so there is no danger of over application or phytotoxicity.

Trichoderma fungi work well as soil inoculants. If using Trichoderma as a disease control rather than preventative it is best to treat infections early. If Trichoderma are applied too late then the results will be disappointing. Trichoderma fungi are not a miracle cure, but with proper usage and realistic expectations you can have Trichoderma working for you.

Listed below are some general guidelines and expectations for using Trichoderma in various greenhouse and hydroponic environments. As with any product, strict adherence to the label instructions is necessary for optimum performance.

Incorporating Trichoderma into your indoor garden or growing operation is easy, safe and environmentally friendly. Look for Trichoderma fungi products in your gardening catalogue, local

“If using Trichoderma as a disease control rather than preventative it is best to treat infections early.” nursery or indoor garden centre. By using Trichoderma you will be promoting a more balanced population of naturally occurring soil micro-organisms, and at the same time reducing your use of harsh, toxic chemicals. And you will save yourself costly and worrisome disposal problems associated with chemical alternatives.

Now that you’ve learned a little about Trichoderma perhaps you will feel more confident in buying and using Trichoderma fungi in your garden, greenhouse or indoor garden.

MY In general the favourable conditions in which to apply Trichoderma are: • moderate moisture (no flooding or drought) • temperatures between 15-32oC • morning or evening application • high soil organic matter content (or humic acid) • pH range of 5.5 to 8.5 • low chlorine* *Trichoderma can be sensitive to high concentrations of chlorine. It is best to allow water with a strong smell of chlorine to sit out overnight exposed to the air to let the chlorine dissipate before use with Trichoderma.

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Aeroponics and Hydroponics Trichoderma use in aeroponic and hydroponic systems can eventually form a fibrous mat that can block pipes and nozzles used to irrigate the plants. Removal of this material is a time consuming process, which involves temporarily dismantling the irrigation system pipes and spaghetti tubing. In warmer weather this needs to be done frequently.

Transplanting into Containers Apply granules or liquid formulation directly into the planting hole making sure that the root ball has good contact with the Trichoderma. As the plants grow maintenance applications can be applied as granules to the soil surface or soil drenches. A soil drenching solution can be prepared from bulk granules by soaking the granules in water for several hours to release the organisms and activate them. This liquid can then be used as a soil drench. The activation process brings Trichoderma out of its dormant stage so it will be actively growing. Once activated Trichoderma should be applied within 24 hours.

Mix with Growing Media Many commercial potting mixes already contain Trichoderma fungi. However, bulk granules of Trichoderma can be mixed in with the soil before transplanting. Or Trichoderma can be applied to the soil surface after transplanting, in the same manner as application of a granular fertilizer. Incorporation of Trichoderma fungi is especially important in sterilized soils to restore or establish a population of beneficial micro-organisms to out-compete pathogens. Trichoderma are aerobic, meaning they require oxygen, so it is best not to waterlog the growing media for too long.

Bare Root Bare root plants can be dipped into solutions containing trichoderma fungi that have been pre-activated. Trichoderma fungi are compatible with most common commercial rooting powders and water-absorbent gels. Granules can also be soaked in water for a few hours with the water being used as a base for a dipping solution.

Sawdust Trichoderma will produce the enzyme cellulase and feed on the most available food source, in this case the sawdust itself. In fact, trichoderma is often used as a compost addition in conventional gardening systems to break down straw, sawdust and other fibrous materials. So, trichoderma is not recommended as an augmentation to sawdust bags or sawdust-based media.

Sand Culture Trichoderma will not be self-sustaining in sand culture because of the limited food supply. Since there is relatively low amounts of organic matter in sand, trichoderma will suffer because there is nothing for the cellulase enzymes to work on.

The only other source of food for trichoderma would be pathogens that the chitinase enzymes can break down. But when the pathogens are gone trichoderma is once again left without a food supply.

Seeding Seeds can be placed in direct contact with trichoderma at planting time. This ensures that the young roots are colonized early on for protection against water mold root rots like pythium and phytophthora. However, be sure that the trichoderma are compatible with any fungicides that may be used as seed treatments or applied with the seed.

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Understanding and using trichoderma fungi

Shopping for Trichoderma Fungi There are a lot of Trichoderma products on the market today.

Growers are often wary of new products that suddenly appear on the market and appear to be copy-cats of more well known products. Here are some features and specifications to look for when buying Trichoderma products.

• Look for stable formulations.

• Look for combinations of Trichoderma species in one product.

• Look for a guaranteed analysis on the label.

• Shelf life is important.

• Do your homework and see how long the product has been on the market.

• Look for products that operate over a wide range of temperatures.

• Make sure the Trichoderma product is organically certified.

For a detailed list of tips when shopping for Trichhoderma fungi visit www.maximumyield.com

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by Michael Bloch

WWOOF It How WWOOF works The overseeing WWOOF organization for a particular country offers lists of organic farms who accept volunteer help in a variety of areas—planting, harvesting, animal husbandry or maintenance, or a combination of these areas.

The volunteer, aptly named WWOOFers, purchase a membership in the country they are interested in and then gain access to those lists that detail all available opportunities.

They choose a host farm and make direct contact with the host to hash out the details. In terms of fair exchange, four to six hours of labour is suggested, depending on the type of tasks involved.

Cities can certainly make you feel trapped and disconnected from nature.You can even feel disconnected from your food as so much of what we eat is pre-packaged and heavily processed.

Many folks are turning back to planting their own vegetable gardens, a tradition we lost in this country in the 1970s. This return to growing at home isn’t just about producing food, it’s about independence; a quiet, peaceful rebellion against Big Agriculture.

However, modern challenges are cropping up in our modern gardens as well, thanks to Big Ag Businesses. Mutant seeds are more popular than heritage and heirloom seeds. A good ole’ smattering of cow dung and other natural fertilizers have been bypassed by complex chemical and fossil fuel based fertilizers in glossy packaging.

Even if you don’t have the space (indoors or outdoors) to grow your own food, have you ever yearned to dig in the soil and learn about food-raising practices of yore, the practices of which were based on organic farming?

WWOOF No, it’s not a dog with a stutter. WWOOF stands for World Wide Opportunities On Organic Farms or Willing Workers On Organic Farms. It’s an organization, actually a network of organizations throughout the world that connect folks with organic food raising in a very hands-on sort of way.

WWOOF has been around since the early 70s. It’s a simple concept whereby organic farmers offer food, accommodation and training through experience in organic lifestyles in exchange for volunteer help.

It’s a great way to see the world on the cheap and opportunities are available in literally dozens of countries around the globe.

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MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

How much does it cost to be a WWOOFer? The ease of gaining access to these lists is dependent on the country you’re interested in. In the USA, a single membership is approximately US$20 or $30 for a double. That fee will get you a guide listing over 600 organic farm opportunities.

In Australia, membership costs AUD$55, which gets you the Australian WWOOF book listing, 1,200 farm opportunities and a 12 month membership with insurance.

Can the kids join in?

It appears they can in some cases, and it would make a great experience for your kids. WOOFer members must be 18 or over, but some farms will let members bring their children; a few even allow pets!

How fit do you have to be?

While you don’t need to be a triathlete, it is expected you’ll be in reasonable shape. After all, you’ll likely be doing a lot of bending at the very least. Being a WOOFer is a great way to get in some productive exercise.

How long are WWOOF stays?

They can vary greatly from a couple of nights to a couple of weeks; some even as long as a year. The length of your stay is negotiable with the host farm.

So if you’re looking for a very economical working holiday plus organic farming training plus exercise, WWOOF might be the ideal solution!

MY International WWOOF organizations: www.wwoof.org Australia’s official WWOOF website: www.wwoof.com.au

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

55

YOU TELL US

Flairform’s manager and analytical chemist Andrew Taylor unravels the difference between one part nutrients and two and three part nutrients, and reveals changes and improvements to the Flairform line of products for modern gardeners.

Andrew Taylor

Maximum Yield (MY): The Flairform Grower’s Guide is a great way to give growers all the information they need for success in one handy booklet. What information can growers expect to find in this guide?

Andrew Taylor: Flairform’s Grower’s Guide provides simple but expert information on hydroponic lighting and nutrients, hydroponic systems, ventilation, cloning, pH, pest and disease control, pruning and much more. With over 150 images and diagrams and an s r extensive sciene Grow e tific knowledge d Gui base, the Flairform Grower’s Guide explains complex and often misunderstood issues in a very simple way.

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MY: Flairform has been in the business of professional horticultural chemistry since 1966. What changes have you made to your products to keep up with this ever-changing industry and advancements in plant nutrition?

56

For removing inorganic and organic contamination Restores electrode accuracy and response time Helps maximize electrode life-span

Old fashioned electrode cleaners are useless if “organics” are being used in the nutrient solution. Flairform’s ELECTRODE CLEANER has solved this problem.

Andrew: We know that modern growers want performance but they also like growing to be simple. In response we have developed GreenDream, the first one part nutrient that truly supersedes the balance and concentration of two and three part nutrients. GreenDream also requires much less pH maintenance than two and three part nutrients, and produces none of the residues that are notorious for causing plumbing blockages.

Cloning has become increasing popular over the years and so has the level of frustration with poor survival rates. For many growers the TwinTech range has improved survival rates to over 90 per cent. TwinTech also provides better root initiation and improves the health and mass of both roots and foliage.

Flavour enhancement has become increasing important. BudStorm’s exclusive flowering compounds provide a distinct advantage over other flowering additives.

Worldwide regulations governing the

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

movement and handling of dangerous goods motivated us to create the first non-corrosive, non-dangerous pH Up and Down that boasts an equivalent working strength to concentrated corrosive formulations. This breakthrough eliminates the health risks.

Old fashioned electrode cleaners (made from acids or alkalis) are now useless given that most nutrient reservoirs contain a host of organic contaminants. Our Electrode Cleaner removes both organic and inorganic contaminants. While this might seem like a minor consideration, a contaminated electrode is likely to give grossly inaccurate readings—even when calibrated! This is a critical issue given that one of the most common causes of nutrient failure is lack of pH control.

MY: Flairform products are available across the globe. What products do you manufacture that are unique for Australian hydroponic growers?

Andrew: As demonstrated above, we aim to solve problems! We simplify growing and make it more productive. For example, Pythoff

provides the most effective means of controlling unforeseen problems. Literally hundreds of commercial and indoor growers worldwide were regularly losing crops prior to finding Pythoff. It’s amazing how many growers revert to Pythoff when problems become critical.

Organic additives have become increasingly popular, but in many regards they have provided limited benefits. Few growers appreciate that organics are rarely absorbed by roots. GroStorm, our 100 per cent organic additive, helps overcome this problem by containing a natural chelating agent that helps piggy-back organics through the root membrane. This maximizes the uptake of those organics that need to be inside the plant. Importantly, GroStorm includes all organic species needed for maximizing plant growth in ONE bottle. The one part concept is critical because it’s easy for growers!

Our one drop pH Test Kit provides up to 800 easy and accurate pH tests. In many situations, this outlasts a set of pH meter batteries and removes the fuss and confusion of electrode calibration and cleaning.

Many growers aren’t aware that silica products are notoriously unstable and therefore ineffective if more than a few months old. Our SilikaMajic has an in-

definite shelf life, and is significantly more concentrated than other brands.

Our electrode calibration solutions (pH Buffers, etc) won’t become infected with algae or slimes. All Flairform products are constantly being refined and are manufactured by qualified chemists!

MY: What is the difference between a one part nutrient, and multiple part nutrients apart from the obvious? Which option would you recommend to growers?

Andrew: Slurry type one part nutrients like GreenDream provide a superior nutrient balance to two and three part brands.

They also offer other benefits such as less pH maintenance. Therefore, if ease-of-use and performance is desirable then a slurry type one part should definitely be used.

One part nutrient specifics: In a slurry type one part the “slurry” is a fully soluble suspension of mainly calcium sulphate within a solution containing the balance of necessary macro-nutrients and trace elements (figure one). The use of a slurry enables the manufacturer to exploit the solubility limits of calcium and sulphate to squeeze more nutrient species into a given volume than what is possible with two and three parts.

Growers must be aware that one part nutrients based on slurry technology are typically deficient in sulphate. This is because manufacturers reduce the amount of sulphate to avoid the formation of the crystalline precipitate which would otherwise form (figure two). An alternative strategy used to supply some sulphate, is to reduce the overall nutrient concentration—particularly the calcium.

Two and three part nutrient specifics: Most two and three part brands provide adequate levels of macro-nutrients and trace elements. The two or three part packaging format is often deemed necessary by manufacturers to avoid stability/ compatibility problems between certain nutrient species when present in the same bottle. As such, the nutrients are strategically distributed among each part. Most importantly, the calcium is kept separate from the sulphate. MY

At Flairform, all products are manufactured by qualified chemists.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

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MAX-MART

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MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

CHECK YOUR growing I.Q.

by Erik Biksa

Q

1. Which of the following developments in plant nutrition/fertilizers may have a significant impact on crop production technologies for the years to come? a) sacharides b) poly amino alcohols c) all of the above d) none of the above 2. What are some of the beneficial effects that poly amino alcohols may have promoting plant growth? a) Plants resources such as amino acids and carbohydrates are no longer “tied-up� within the plant. b) Plant cell membranes are altered. c) Plants will need to shave less. d) None of the above.

3. While lowering temperatures in the ripening/ late flowering stage may help improve plant colourations, what may be a potential drawback(s) to this cultural practice? a) decreased essential oil production in some varieties b) lower nutrient availability c) decreased plant metabolic rates d) all of the above

ANSWERS: May/June 2010 quiz

4. What are some common sources of plant growth regulators such as auxins and cyctokinins? a) synthetic formulations b) plants c) secretions from beneficial bacteria and fungi d) shady guy at the train station 5. Based on question #4, which do you think would be the most effective source(s) and why?

6. For outdoor gardens, plants that have been grown vegetatively for longer durations will start to flower _________ versus plants that spent less tiem in vegetative growth. a) faster b) slower

A

1) a, b, c, d, e 2) glycine 3) b 4) a 5) b, 6) a large volume flush will disrupt the soil chemistry too greatly.

Besides reducing fertilizer residues, flushing reduces other benefical compounds and micro-organims. answers to this quiz will be printed in the September/October 2010 issue of Maximum Yield.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

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RETAIL

directory

ACT South Pacific Hydroponics #2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609 South Pacific Hydroponics 70 Oatley Court , Belconnen ACT 2617

(02) 6239 2598 (02) 6251 0600

NEW SOUTH WALES ABC Aquaculture 54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259 (61) 2 4393 3131 ASE Hydroponics Factory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 (02) 9477 3710 Ballina Hydro 3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478 (02) 6686 7321 Brunswick Hydro & Aquarium Supplies 19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 (02) 6685 1552 Criscete Hydroponics and Organics Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5779 Dr. Van Der Bloom’s Hydroponics Supplies 5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450 (02) 6651 9992 Dubbo Hydro & Tobacconist 42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830 (02) 6885 1616 Ezi Grow Hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro 1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 (02) 4588 5826 Ezi Grow Hydro 56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro - Head Office 18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795 (02) 6337 1485 Favgro Hydroponics Growers 107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536 (02) 4472 7165 Felanza - Hydroponics 140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205 (02) 9556 1494 General Hydroponics 7/14 Sunnyholt Road, Blacktown NSW 9676 (02) 9676 8682 Grow Australia Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 (02) 9473 5000 Grow Your Own Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5179 Happy Grow Hydro 15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750 (02) 4732 2870 Hobby Grow 25 Skinner Street, South Grafton NSW 2460 (04) 2283 8069 Home Harvest 423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216 (02) 9567 8841 Hyalite Moorebank 6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9824 3400 Hyalite Villawood 2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 (02) 9723 7199 Hydro Masta 100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 (02) 8812 2845 Hydro Masta Pty Ltd 76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121 (02) 9869 3011 Hydro Net 2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4334 6955 Hydro Place 1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287 (02) 4965 6595 Hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies 2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 (02) 4958 1489 Hydro Shop Pty Ltd Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 (02) 4960 0707 Hydro Supplies 57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (02) 9326 0307 Hydro Wise B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4333 5700 Hydroponics Grow All Year 14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 (02) 6921 5911 Hygrow Horticulture (Greenlite) 252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 (02) 9369 3928 Indoor Sun Shop 745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 (02) 9808 6511

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Indoor Sun Shop Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 International Fans PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 Kyper’s Tools and Hydroponics Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mullumbimby NSW 2482 Lismore Hydro 1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 Lismore Hydroponics rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 Northern Nursery Supplies Pty Ltd 14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 Nowra Hydro 68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 Nutriflo Hydroponic Systems 19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 Parkview Plants 250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 Port Pumps and Irrigation 20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 Quik Grow 510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 Quick Grow 823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 Quik Grow Pty Ltd 490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 Simple Grow Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 Tweed Coast Hydroponics 2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 Uncle Wal’s Gardenland 31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 Home Grown Aquaponics 13/8a-8b Hartley Drive, Thornton NSW 2322 Westside Lighting & Electrical (Ezi Range) PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 Wollongong Hydroponic Center 318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 NORTHERN TERRITORY Katherine Hydroponics Centre 17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 QUEENSLAND A Happy Medium Hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 Allgrow Hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 Aquatic Oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 Billabong Hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 D-Bay Hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 E.T. Grow Home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 Eye Lighting Australia Pty Ltd PO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 Green Power Hydroponics 2/80 Beerburrum Road, Caboolture QLD 4510 Grow Hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 Hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt.,Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 Hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 Hydroponics Today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 Indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

(02) 9822 4700 (02) 9833 7500 (02) 6684 4928 (02) 6621 3311 (02) 6621 3311 (02) 6563 1599 (02) 4423 3224 (02) 4323 1599 (02) 4423 0599 (02) 6581 1272 (02) 9636 7023 (02) 9546 8642 (02) 9568 2900 (02) 9604 0469 (07) 5524 8588 (02) 6550 0221 (02) 4028 6388 1 800 661 475 (02) 4225 8773

(08) 8972 1730

(07) 3809 3322 (07) 3376 7222 (07) 3245 7777 (07) 4126 3551 (07) 3204 8324 (07) 5591 6501 (07) 3335 3556 (07) 5428 1133 (07) 3816 3206 (07) 5593 7385 (07) 4091 3217 (07) 4035 5422 (07) 4683 3133

J&K Hydroponics 10 Wacol Station Road, Wacol, Brisbane QLD, 4076 KY Garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 Nerang Hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 North Queensland Hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 Northern Hydroponics 383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 Pioneer Hydroponics 194 Doyles Road, Pleystowe QLD 4741 SA Hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 Simply Hydroponics Gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 Sunstate Hydroponics 1137 Ipswitch Road, Moorooka QLD 4105 Sunstate Hydroponics 67 Aerodrome Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 The Hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 Tumbling Waters Hydroponics 2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 Walsh’s Seeds Garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 SOUTH AUSTRALIA Amazon Aquariums & Gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Ascot Park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 Barry’s Hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 Bolzon Home & Garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 Complete Hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 Country Hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 D & W Dependable Hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 Festive Hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 Fulham Gardener Nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 Glandore Hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 Greener then Green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noarlunga South SA 51 Greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 Greenhouse Superstore Royal Park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 Ground-Up Service Nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 Harvest Time Hydroponics Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 Hindmarsh Hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 Highland Hydro 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 Hong Kong Hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Hydro Heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 Hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041

(07) 3271 6210 (07) 3375 9098 (07) 5527 4155 (07) 4728 3957 (07) 4054 5884 (07) 4959 2016 (07) 3285 1355 (07) 5596 2250 (07) 3848 5288 (07) 5479 1011 (07) 3354 1588 (07) 4096 6443 (07) 4636 1077

(08) 8359 1800 (08) 8357 4700 (08) 8281 4066 (08) 8265 0665 (08) 8396 3133 (08) 8258 4022 (08) 8645 3105 (08) 8287 6399 (08) 8523 5100 (08) 8235 2004 (08) 8447-1122 (08) 8371 5777 (08) 8386 2596 (08) 8382 0100 (08) 8447 5899 (08) 8264 9455 (08) 8244 0222 (08) 8346 9461 (08) 8395 4455 (08) 8260 2000 (08) 8391 1880 (08) 8272 2000

RETAIL

directory

Hydro Technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 (08) 8241 5022 Hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 (08) 8377 1200 Hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 (08) 8262 8323 Koko’s Hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 5463 Larg’s Bay Garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 (08) 8242 3788 Martins Road Hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 (08) 8283 4011 Mitre 10 Drive In 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 (08) 8445 1813 New Age Hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 (08) 8351 9100 Owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 (08) 8528 6008 Professional Hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 (08) 8353 0133 Professional Hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 (08) 8365 5172 Professional Hydroponics 113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA (08) 8532 3441 Soladome Aquaculture & Hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 (08) 8362 8042 South Coast Hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 (08) 8384 2380 State Hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 (08) 8341 5991 Tea Tree Gully Hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 (08) 8264 9455 Two Wells Hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 (08) 8520 2287 Urban Grow Solutions 1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 (08) 8322 0040 West Garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 (08) 8255 1355

VICTORIA Albury Hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 All Seasons Hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 Banksia Greenhouse and Outdoor Garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 Barb’s Hydro and Nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196

(03) 9775 0495 (03) 9754 3712 (03) 9783 3006 (03) 5996 3697 (03) 9796 3776 (03) 9646 8133 (03) 9311 9776 (03) 9568 1860 (03) 5480 2036 (03) 5480 7080 (03) 9495 0083 (03) 9510 6832 (03) 9769 1411 (03) 9356 9400 (03) 5176 0898 (03) 9739 7311 (03) 9870 8566 (03) 9435 6425 (03) 9764 1372

Hydroware

TASMANIA Advanced Hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 Ezy Grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 Garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 Green Acres Hydroponics Unit 1 46-48 Bingalong Rd, Mornington, TAS 7018 Growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 Hydroponics Systems 131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 Hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 Organic Garden Supplies Tas 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 Tas Hydroponic Supplies 99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 The Hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 The Hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428

Bayside Hydroponics Factory 2/8 Rutherford Road, Seaford Vic 3196 Belgrave Hydroponics 1642 Burwood Highway, Belgrave Vic 3160 Brew ‘N’ Grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 Casey Hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 Casey Hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 Chronic Hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 Complete Garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 Discount Hydroponics 752 Waverley Road, Chadstone Vic 3148 Echuca Hydroponic Nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 Echuca Pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 Excel Distributors Pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 F.L.O.W. Plants and Environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 Gardensmart 810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 Global Hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 Greenleaf Hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844 Greenleaf Hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 GreenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 Grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 Holland Forge Pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178

(03) 6344 5588 (03) 6243 9490 (03) 6330 1177 (03) 6245 1066 (03) 6273 6088 (03) 6278 3457 (03) 6435 4411 (03) 6424 7815 (03) 6272 2202 (03) 6273 1411 (03) 6340 2222

(03) 9540 8000 (03) 9540 8000 (03) 9801 8070 (03) 5674 2584

59a Lara Way, Campbellfield, Vic, 3061 (03) 9357 8805 Hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452 Hyalite Bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946 Hyalite Global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400 Hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510 Indoor Garden Company 29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 (03) 9416 1699 Impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515 JB Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399 Just Hydroponics Deer Park Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861 Just Hydroponics Geelong Unit 7 36-38 Saunders street, North Geelong, VIC 3215 (03) 5278 6478 Latrove Valley Home Brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140 Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055 Melton Hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256 Midtown Hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300 One Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177 Pam’s Home Brew & Hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143

Palms & Plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 Shepparton Hydroponics 87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 Simply Hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 Simply Hydroponics 8, 59-61 Miller St., Epping 3076 Sunlite Hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 Sunray Hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 Supply Net International P/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 The Hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 Waterworks Hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 WESTERN AUSTRALIA Accent Hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 Aqua Post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 Aquaponics Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 Creative Hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 Great Southern Hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road, Bunbury WA 6230 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd.,Maddington WA 6109 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 Greenlite Hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 Growsmart Hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 Hydro Nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 Hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 Isabella’s Hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Johnson’s Nursery Garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 Neerabup Organic & Hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 One Stop Hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 Perth Hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 Southwest Hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 The Grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 Bloem PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 The Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 The Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 The Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 Water Garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017

(08) 8285 7575 (03) 5831 6433 (03) 9360 9344 (03) 9408 4677 (03) 5222 6730 (03) 5023 6422 (88) 264-3600 (03) 9761 0662 (03) 9465 1455

(08) 9375 9355 (08) 9354 2888 1800 640 222 (08) 9528 1310 (08) 9721 8322 (08) 9452 0546 (08) 9274 8388 (08) 9345 5321 (08) 9841 3220 (08) 9336 7368 (08) 9248 1901 (08) 9206 0188 (08) 9371 5757 (08) 9306 3028 (08) 9921 6016 (08) 9404 7155 (08) 9471 7000 (08) 9478 1211 (08) 9534 8544 (08) 9356 7044 (08) 9217 4400 (08) 9473 1473 (08) 9495 1495 (08) 9274 3232 (08) 9443 7993

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

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COMING UP IN DO YOU september-october 2010

know?

Biological Pest Controls: The History of the Ladybug Matt LeBannister observes the lifecycle of the ladybug and introduces the best ways to control them in your growing environment.

A Spectral Revolution Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) offer a green approach to growing. The modern options available to light our grow rooms mean energy savings and money in our pockets.

Technology Explained Familiarize yourself with the terminology associated with advancing technologies in instrumentation for the indoor gardening community.

For Peat’s Sake Peat is formed in unique ecosystems so when it is dug up, the ecosystems are disrupted. Luckily environmental alternatives do exist with advantages that your plants

Plus: Exclusive Australian contests, latest industry news, reader question and answer, best products and technologies, and much, much more.

www.maximumyield.com

Maximum Yield September/October will be available September 1 for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across Australia and on maximumyield.com

62

confused, but Mycorrhizal fungi are not parasitic like Trichoderma fungi.

2 Brix or sugar levels in many fruits and vegetables

are highly dependant on light levels, EC, nutrition, cultivar, temperature and plant health.

3 Stevia is traditionally recognized for its sweetening

and also medicinal power. The intensity of its sweetness and its taste are proportionally dependent on its content of four diterpenic glycosides found in leaves, veins and stems.

4 With some plants, even sections of a leaf tissue will

root and form clones. Also, it is important to think small when taking your cuttings (.15 to .95 inches of plant material).

5 In addition to being a powerful biological control

agent, Trichoderma is a major pest in commercial mushroom production where it is known as “green mould.”

will love.

+

1 Mycorrhizal fungi and Trichoderma fungi often get

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

6 Oxygen is not very soluble in water, and the DO level is dependant on temperature, with a cooler solution holding as much as 12 to 13 ppm of DO, and a warm solution holding as little as six to seven ppm.

7 A sulphur deficiency and nitrogen deficiency look very similar in plants, the one distinction being a sulphur deficiency shows up as overall yellowing of the plant, MY rather than yellowing of the older leaves first.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010

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MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - July/August 2010