Maximum Yield AUS/NZ March/April 2012

Australia March-April 2012

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2012

Indoor gardenIng expo

NEW: FolloW us oN TWiTTEr

DENVER

COLORADO March 10 -11

GREAT LAKES MICHIGAN June 2 - 3

SAN FRANCISCO CALIFORNIA July 21-22

LONG BEACH CALIFORNIA noveMber 3-4

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CONTENTS March/April 2012

FEATURES 16

26

understanding heirloomology healthy, Safe, eco-friendly

by Matt lebannister

20

vermicomposting: Worms and recycling

by Michael bloch

26

16 20

32

nutrient Deficiences and Growing like a Pro

by Frank rauscher

36

Say What?

The Pythium Predator

by Dr. lynette Morgan

32

DEPARTMENTS 4

From the editor

38

Growers Know

4

letters to the editor

41

Industry’s latest

6

Maximumyield.com

42

Talking Shop

8

Simon Says

44

Distributors

10

MaX Facts

46

Do you Know?

14

Product Spotlight

46

coming up in May/June

Maximum Yield | March/

3

FroM The EDITOR | JESSICA RAyMOND as we enter fall and say goodbye to the outdoor growing season, some of you might also be completing an indoor harvest and getting ready to plot out your next round of indoor crops. now is a perfect time to think about what you might like to do differently in the grow room. What new challenges would you like to take on? Perhaps you would like to incorporate organics into your garden. or maybe you would like to go ‘green’ by composting or ‘vermicomposting’ (worm farming). This issue we offer quick tips for starting a worm farm and going green simultaneously. Get worms to work for you by feeding them your household waste. your reward will be rich, fertile compost for your crops.

In this issue we also break down some of the sticky terms associated with hydroponics—like leachate, fungal and algal—for the confused beginner.

With nature in mind, we also included an article on heirlooms; heirloom, or heritage crops, combine variety and safe, healthy grow practices, making them ideal for eco-minded growers.

Jessica Raymond, Editor This month at Maximum yield we’re introducing our new ‘Growers Know’ column featuring…you! each editor@maximumyield.com issue we’ll introduce one local indoor gardener to gather insight and grow tips from your friends and neighbours. enjoy this issue, and please feel free to e-mail at editor@maximumyield.com with your feedback.

Want to subscribe to our digital edition of Maximum yield? Get it here: maximumyield.com/subscribe-digital.php

leTTerS To The EDITOR InspIred readIng

I just started receiving my new subscription to Maximum yield. I absolutely love it—with new growing techniques, nutrient recipes from the experts and tips and tricks for every subject in between. I especially liked Root Zone Chilling by Dr. lynette Morgan from the January/February 2012 issue. Maximum yield is going to be the vehicle for me to be a better gardener, indoors and out.

Aimee Lamson

BlIssful BegInner

Just checking out the latest issue of My and it looks great. love the articles and the graphics. There’s a lot of good stuff in here, a lot of helpful information. My favourite articles from the latest issues are from my favourite writers including Dr. lynette Morgan, Matt lebannister and now aussie’s own raquel neofit. Keep up the great work. Maximum yield rocks!

Josh Simmons

WIn BIg WInner In YarravIlle

awesome news! What a way to start the new year. Thank you very much. you’ve made my day. hope you all have a great year. Keep up the great work. awesome (and very helpful) mag.

Kind regards Craig Guy Yarraville, Victoria, Australia

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Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

Better BreathIng

I have a sealed room with co2 at 1,600 PPM and I need to know what level or additional oxygen is needed to have an optimal growing environment?

Thanks in advance, Capt. Kevin ahoy captain, adding co2 is a great way to boost yields, and a sealed environment is ideal for co2 supplementation. regarding oxygen, you are probably already adding it! More specifically, your plants are giving off oxygen as they take in co2. you may add oxygen to your reservoir, because the roots perform best in an oxygenated environment. oxygen bonds with water via air contact. Keep water moving with a circulation pump and add beneficial bacteria to your system. as long as your water temperature is within the ideal temperature range (14 to 22°c), movement and bacteria will take care of the rest.

Just keep in mind that your plants will take in co2 and expel oxygen through the leaves. Small amounts of oxygen are used by the roots, but plant respiration will provide all of the supplemental oxygen you need.

I hope this helps, Casey Jones Fraser, Maximum Yield Contributor

Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

We want to hear from you!

Maximum yield Publications Inc. Snail-mail: 2339 Delinea Place, nanaimo, bc v9T 5l9 e-mail: editor@maximumyield.com Twitter: twitter.com/max_yield Facebook: www.facebook.com/MaximumYield

Maximum Yield | March/April 2012

5

COMING UP ON THE WEB

VOLUME 9 – NUMBER 6 March/April 2012 PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher.

‘Grow Like A Pro’ in Denver, CoLorADo, MArCh 11, 2012

Maximum Yield will be returning to Denver, Colorado March 11 to kick off the 2012 Indoor Gardening Expo ‘Grow Like a Pro’ Tour.

Take a vacation in this vibrant city; Maximum Yield and the Colorado Convention Center welcome growers from around the world to participate in a full day of networking, education and entertainment.

Visit indoorgardenexpo.com for complete event details.

W GREOA PR!O

LIKTOUR

Got Questions? Get Answers.

Maximum Yield’s resident experts are available and ready to answer your modern gardening questions.

E-mail editor@maximumyield.com or fill out the Ask the Experts question form on maximumyield.com

Free DiGitAL subsCriPtion to MAxiMuM YieLD

Now you can receive Maximum Yield free to your inbox every month. Subscribe to the digital edition of Maximum Yield by simply filling out the form at maximumyield.com/subscribe-digital.php Connect to MaximumYield.com instantly from your Smartphone with our Quick Response (QR) Code, found on the cover of every issue of Maximum Yield. Now you can access the best products, the most in-depth articles and information, and the latest news at high speeds. Simply download the QR Code Reader software compatible with your Smartphone, scan the QR Code and your phone’s browser will automatically launch, redirecting you to maximumyield.com It’s that simple! maximumyield.com.

ConneCt with MAxiMuM YieLD

maximumyield.com facebook.com/MaximumYield indoorgardeningexpo.com twitter.com/max_yield

contributors Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.

Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information.

Frank Rauscher is a certified

horticulturist and consultant for the garden industry. He’s a contributing author to several publications and was writer and editor of the Green Pages.

Frank finds that analyzing plant stress and finding solutions is exciting. He is very much at home bringing new ideas to the field of horticulture and indoor gardening.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092 PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com Hayley Jesson - Hayley@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Jennifer Duong - jennifer@maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Liz Johnston - liz@maximumyield.com Denise Higginson - denise@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING Tracy Greeno - tracy@maximumyield.com Tara Campbell - Tara@maximumyield.com AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Dome Garden Supply Futchatec Growth Technology Holland Forge House N’ Garden Hydrogarden Hydraspher UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Future Harvest Development Europe Nutriculture UK Direct Garden Supplies Dutch Pro Maxigro CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS General Hydroponics Humboldt Wholesale Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds

Matt LeBannister developed a

green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.

Michael Bloch is the owner and editor of GreenLivingTips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy. The site offers a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment-related news to help consumers and businesses reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact.

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Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK, Australia and New Zealand.

Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.

Maximum Yield | March/April 2012

7

SIMon SayS Simon, Is crop rotation important in hydroponics? What are the most common issues or pests that the serious home hydroponic grower might face when using this technique?

Thanks, Stevan

For centuries people have been using crop rotation when producing agricultural crops. Even today, rotation is recommended as a great method for the backyard gardener producing food for the family. There are several reasons to practice crop rotation. On a commercial scale, things like economics, commodity prices and sometimes water use can be determining factors, although for the home gardener, these aren’t the likely reasons. Cycling of crops to avoid pests and disease is another function of rotation that benefits home and commercial growers alike. This is a tremendous benefit to annual food production, compared to perennial systems where you can move crops away from a problem and restart.

Nutritional needs are also an interesting reason to keep the flow of crops dynamic. Some plants feed very heavily, some lightly; others can actually renew fertilizer values in soils. One example would be legumes, which associate with nitrogen fixing bacteria for a net positive benefit of N in the soil at the end of the crop. This shows another possible benefit of modifying or enhancing soil biology and in turn, soil quality. The last benefit is related to the use of different plant’s root growth to change soils texture. As you can see, there are a variety of reasons for crop rotation.

How does this relate to hydroponics, and is it important? My first impression is that it is hard to see any of these benefits being important in a hobby 8

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

hydroponic system. However, the rotation to reduce disease and insect pressure could come into play, which brings us to the second question.

Greenhouse growers and indoor gardeners have similar issues when it comes to pests. At the core of the issue is the artificial environment, which in many cases can be useful to the horticulturalist but in the case of pest pressure is an Achilles heel. Without the balance of a natural system, when something detrimental infiltrates the system, the spread can be shockingly quick without the biological balance of

“If...production managers are choosing biological, it is not because they are feeling warm and fuzzy about the environment.” the outside world. Those of us that have seen powdery mildew or mites move through gardens know how vigilant the grower must be.

There is no substitute for the observational diligence of the grower managing any pest-related issue quickly and effectively. The most common issues will be regional and also directly related to the plants being grown. As always, I defer to the local shop as the authority on local problems and the solutions they have found to be effective. Air intake into the grow room is a major source of contamination and there are now products available to

reduce this possibility by filtering the intake air. Remember that movement of people in and out of the grow room is probably the second most common contamination source, so be aware of this vector as well.

Looking at the commercial greenhouse system in North America we can use their incredible research to really look at the most cost effective solutions, albeit on a commercial scale.

Because of the contained artificial environment, the use of pesticides has always had a major role, and chemical pesticides still have a strong presence in the market. Attending commercial shows and browsing industry magazines I have observed a tremendous shift to biological solutions. With the lean margins in greenhouse vegetable production, if these production managers are choosing biological, it is not because they are feeling warm and fuzzy about the environment. It’s because those parasitic wasps or predatory nematodes are functioning to a higher level that the chemical option and can be a more effective solution to keep their systems running at the highest efficiency possible. Keep this in mind and see if your local shop has some biological solutions the next time you visit. MY Do you have a question for one of our resident experts? Send it to editor@maximumyield.com or fill out the form on maximumyield.com and your answer might be printed in an upcoming issue.

Maximum Yield | January/February 2012

9

MaX FACTS

HyDROPONIC NEWS, TIPS AND TRIvIA

bLue LiGht GooD For LettuCe Japanese scientists have discovered that treating lettuce seedlings with blue and red-blue light promotes the yield and antioxidant content of lettuce plants after transplanting. researchers chers reported that at 45 days after sowing, higher leaf areas and shoot fresh weight were obtained in lettuce plants treated with blue-containing leD lights and that polyphenol contents and total antioxidant status were also greater in lettuce seedlings treated with blue-containing leD lights when compared to seedlings that had been treated with fluorescent lights.

(Source: sciencedaily.com)

MaXFACTS HyDROPONIC NEWS, TIPS AND TRIvIA

GM CroPs tAkinG over Genetically modified grains are encroaching on non-GM crops in Western australia and experts fear that the natural grain sector could vanish within the next 10 years due to contamination from GM crops.

Dr. nic Dunlop, The conservation council of Western australia’s environmental science and policy co-ordinator, said the present five-metre gap between GM and non-GM crops is ineffective and that GM-free canola could be a thing of the past in Western australia by the next decade.

(Source: Warm earth Magazine)

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Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

ControLLinG whiteFLies the Green wAY a uSDa study has shown that controlling whiteflies with greener, whitefly-specific pesticides is both more effective and less damaging to the environment than continuing to employ broad-spectrum insecticides that also killed all the whitefly’s natural predators.

The study showed that while whiteflies initially died off at about the same rate in areas treated with both the whitefly-specific and the broad-spectrum insecticides, the area where the researchers sprayed broad-spectrum insecticides had to be repeatedly sprayed to control whiteflies, while there was no need to re-spray the area treated once with the whitefly-specific insecticide.

(Source: ars.usda.gov)

rePort exPLAins whY PLAnt CLones Aren’t iDentiCAL a team from oxford university and King abdullah university of Science and Technology has shown why cloned plants are not actually identical: the genomes of regenerant plants carry relatively high frequencies of new Dna sequence mutations that were not present in the genome of the donor plant.

“Where these new mutations actually come from is still a mystery,” said one of the authors of the study. “They may arise during the regeneration process itself or during the cell divisions in the donor plant that gave rise to the root cells from which the regenerant plants are created.”

(Source: sciencedaily.com)

stuDY reveALs orGAniC toMAto JuiCe better For You a Spanish study has revealed that organic tomato juice contains more phenolic components than juice from conventionally grown crops.

Polyphenols are a family of natural compounds with important nutritional properties that can protect the body against cardiovascular and degenerative diseases and some forms of cancer.

Spanish researchers found significant differences between the levels of bioactive components in organic tomatoes and the levels found in those grown conventionally.

(Source: sciencedaily.com)

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

11

MaX FACTS ProDucT SPOTLIGHT

HyDROPONIC NEWS, TIPS AND TRIvIA

AustrALiAns urGeD to be PAtriotiC AnD eAt their veGGies The industry body representing australia’s vegetable growers used australia Day this year as a way to promote fresh local vegetables as an alternative to the traditionally meat-oriented holiday barbecue. “australia Day has long been associated with meat-laden barbeques and we urge people to complement this with fresh, in-season, australiangrown vegetables,” said auSveG spokesperson hugh Gurney.

“We are urging aussies to be patriotic and support local vegetable producers on the date that celebrates all things australian,” he added.

(Source: hydroponics.com.au)

inDustrY boDY PreAChes Fruit AnD veGGie ConsuMPtion auSveG, the industry body representing australia’s potato and vegetable growers, marked australia’s healthy Weight Week (January 22 to 29) by calling for an increased public awareness about the importance of achieving and maintaining a healthy lifestyle. “eating healthy and nutritious foods is vital to maintaining a healthy weight and lifestyle, and auSveG encourages all australians to consume more fresh fruit and vegetables as part of a balanced diet,” said auSveG communications officer luke raggatt. auSveG continues to recommend that australians eat a daily intake of two servings of fruit and five servings of vegetables daily.

(Source: hydroponics.com.au)

there’s An APP For thAt… university of Melbourne researchers have come up with an iPhone app that makes use of local rainfall information and plant type to help gardeners remember how much to water their plants and when. “overwatering is the biggest factor in garden water efficiency so the ‘SmartGardens’ schedule is calculated to give your garden the optimum 10 millimetre dose of water for each area of your garden based on average rainfall patterns,” said co-developer Dr. adrian Pearce, from computer Science and Software engineering at the university of Melbourne.

The app is available free of charge from the iTunes store.

(Source: hydroponics.com.au)

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Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

YounGer Aussies ConFuseD About servinG sizes a university of Sydney study has shown that almost half of younger-generation australians are unsure about what constitutes one recommended serving size of fruit or vegetables.

The study—published in the Dietician’s association of australia’s journal Nutrition & Dietetics—found that just 54 per cent of respondents between 18 and 24 were able to identify the recommended serving sizes of fruit and vegetables.

Many of the subjects participating in the survey were unable to identify correct serving sizes for foods like carrots, lettuce and grapes. a single serving of vegetables might consist of one medium potato, one cup of salad or half a cup of cooked peas.

(Source: ausveg.com.au)

sCientists FinD suGAr PuMP Scientists have identified a missing piece of the molecular pump system in plants—the protein that moves sucrose to the inside of the plant's leaf cell walls.

The researchers believe that it is highly likely that the animal-cell version of this same protein fulfils a similar role in animals and humans, which could be a major breakthrough for diabetes and obesity research.

The discovery is also good news for scientists researching ways to increase food security by improving crop yields. a spokesman from the research team said that “The identification of these critical transporters is a major step toward developing strategies to ensure food supplies and keep food prices in check."

(Source: sciencedaily.com)

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

13

ProDucT SPOTLIGHT

yOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S

HOTTEST ITEMS Ask for them at your local indoor gardening store.

Lucius Ballast Coming Soon The all-new lucius ballast works on both hPS and Mh lamps. This energy-saving ballast outputs higher lumens from lamps and operates silently. It features a low start-up current and low maintenance costs plus a dimming control. lucius is available in three sizes: 400 watts, 600 watts and 1,000 watts. lucius is distributed throughout australia by Dome Garden Supplies. ask your local retailer to carry the lucius ballast today.

Announcing Great White® From Plant Success

Introducing House & Garden’s Amino Treatment

Great White® is the most complete mycorrhizal product on the market. The cuttingedge formula contains 15 different species of mycorrhizal fungi, 19 different species of beneficial bacteria, two species of trichoderma, plant vitamins and glycine all in one product. research shows that this powerful formula will ignite plant and root growth giving plants the tools they need to maximise yields. Great White is available now at your local hydroponic retail stores.

new from house & Garden, amino Treatment has received rave reviews across the world and is now available in australia in limited quantities. Featuring a special blend of amino acids, silicon and a revolutionary new substance extracted from a specific plant seed, this product will send your plants into overdrive. For profuse growth and flowering use amino Treatment. For more information visit an authorized house & Garden retailer near you.

Nutrifield’s Pot Liners nutrifield’s Pot liners are the ideal solution when you’re growing with nF Premium coco.

It helps to keep the coco together until it binds with your plants’ roots. nF Pot liners have woven sides to allow your media to breath, and they are netted underneath to prevent waterlogging. They even come complete with an easy drawstring to help tie things up once you finished with the media. ask for nF Pot liners at your local hydroponic shop today.

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Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

Introducing Nutrifield’s Smart Garden™ Water Cleaner (Previously Bio Kleen) nutrifield’s Smart Garden™ Water cleaner cleans tanks, ponds and hydroponics systems. It sanitises nutrient systems and reduces odours from tanks by breaking down decaying matter and reducing algae and fungi bloom and recycling it into readily-available plant food. Water cleaner reduces blocks in pipes and drippers, ensuring all plants are equally fed. It feeds on dead root matter, keeping root systems trimmed and healthy. Smart Garden™ Water cleaner is non-toxic and is safe around animals and fish.

Smart Garden™ Water cleaner offers beneficial microorganisms that work together to form a natural filter. available in 20 grams and 50 grams at your local hydroponic shop.

Introducing the EP Raider Electronic Ballast The eP raider electronic 120 to 240 volt, 50 to 60 hertz ballast offers high lumen output and cool operation. It is dimmable, operates quietly and features variable power control. raider is available in three sizes: 400 watts, 600 watts and 1,000 watts and comes with a three-year warranty. raider is distributed throughout australia by Dome Garden Supplies. ask your local retailer to carry the raider ballast today.

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

15

Understanding

Heirloomology Healthy, Safe, Eco-friendly

by Matt LeBannister

Get set up to grow only heirloom—warm up your plate and palate with these delicious and distinct peppers.

16

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

The people have spoken and for the first time in ages the availability of heirloom fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers is on the rise. Seed-saving banks that distribute heirloom seeds to the home gardener have become more numerous and popular in recent years and many farmers are making the switch to growing heirloom strains, breaking into this new market in order to meet the demands of concerned consumers. By growing a variety of cultivars many farmers are able to reduce the use of expensive pesticides, creating healthier, safer food and cutting operating costs significantly. Some grocers have started to specialize in different organic heirloom alternatives to the standard commercially grown hybrid varieties that have dominated produce sections for so many years. This groundswell of change is the result of a lot of hard work and education—growers and consumers alike have begun to seek a better way and the food industry is beginning to listen.

Heirloom or heritage strains are open-pollinated plants that are true, distinct breeding varieties. In modern agriculture, however, commercial farmers grow hybrid monocultures. They generally grow one type of hybrid vegetable that cannot reproduce, obliging farmers to buy seeds from large seed companies

All you need to successfully overwinter your Grandpa’s Siberian Home Peppers indoors is a sunny windowsill.º Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

17

Understanding Heirloomology

each year. Within a monoculture there is very little genetic diversity, which means that a certain pest or disease could take out the entire crop. This is why farmers must use so much pesticide to protect their crops. For example, the great potato famine was largely the result of a monoculture of potatoes becoming infected with potato blight, leading to the widespread starvation of millions. Heirloom crops, on the other hand, not only provide more variety to the consumer who might be tired of the same pepper varieties season after season, but they also allow farming to be safer. If a pest or disease attacks a farm that grows heirloom crops it might wipe out one strain, but genetic diversity would probably allow the other strains to survive.

There is a huge variety of peppers—in every shape, colour, size and degree of heat. The first unique heirloom pepper strain we’ll discuss is called the Black Hungarian. This cultivar is a very hearty strain and can handle colder weather than most types, making it an excellent choice for those of us living in cooler climates. Black Hungarian peppers are quite productive and since they are an early type—maturing in about 70 days—they’re a great choice for short growing seasons.

Black Hungarian peppers produce fruit similar in shape to a jalapeno, except the fruit starts dark purple (almost black) then turns red as it ripens. The foliage is ornamental, with green leaves and purple veins.

In terms of taste and heat, Black Hungarian peppers are known for their great flavour, almost as spicy as a chili pepper but slightly milder in taste, which would put the heat somewhere around 1,000 to 5,000 Scoville heat units (SHUs). The Scoville scale indicates the level of capsaicin (the chemical that creates the spicy flavour) present in the pepper—as a reference, green peppers are rated at zero SHUs and jalapeno peppers are rated at around 3,000 to 5,000 SHUs. Black Hungarian peppers can be easily cultivated indoors in soil or soilless mixes or in hydroponics. During the vegetative stage you should provide the plant with 18 hours of uninterrupted light, followed by 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness.

They will grow to be 45 to 60 centimetres tall and will produce fruit ranging from 10 to 15 centimetres in length. Black

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Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

The world of heirloom peppers is one of endless possibilities, a world where every pepper has a unique flavour, colour and level of heat.º Hungarian peppers do best in full sun with a pH range from 6.1 to 6.5 and they can be forced into blooming by switching the photoperiod to 12 hours of uninterrupted light followed by 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness—although they will often begin to flower on their own.You must self-pollinate these peppers when gardening indoors. To best accomplish this, use a small paintbrush—once your peppers begin to flower, simply touch the end of the paintbrush inside each flower a couple of times a day, which should ensure the spread of pollen from flower to flower.

Another excellent heirloom pepper is the Matchbox pepper, a variety of the Super Chili pepper. Matchbox pepper plants grow 45 to 60 centimetres in height and produce small, five centimetre fruit that begins green and turns red as the fruit ripens.

The peppers are often eaten when green, but have a little extra sweetness to them once they turn red. Matchbox peppers are quite fiery—they can be as hot as 30,000 SHUs—and while the thick skin found on these peppers allows them to retain their flavour, it does make drying them difficult.

Matchbox peppers can be easily cultivated indoors. Peppers germinate best in warm environments, so when starting seeds use a heating mat or place the seeds in a warm place such as the top of a fridge or a sunny windowsill. Just be careful not to overheat the seeds, as they will go dormant if temperatures get above 35°C. Matchbox peppers have pretty much the same requirements as Black Hungarian peppers, except that they are less tolerant of cooler temperatures and they are not recommended for short outdoor growing seasons as they can take 80 to 90 days to mature.

Another type of heirloom pepper—rare, and one of the most unique I have ever come across—is called Grandpa’s Siberian Home Pepper. This type of pepper plant is really small, growing just 30 to 45 centimetres in height. Grandpa’s Siberian Home Peppers produce small fruit that are just over a centimetre in length and are red to purple in colour. The heat level of this particular pepper is around 1,500 to 4,000 SHUs, giving it a nice amount of heat while still maintaining good flavour.

What makes Grandpa’s Siberian Home Peppers so unique is that this variety was developed in Siberia and was bred to overwinter indoors. They are grown outdoors throughout a short summer season and at the end of the season they are just beginning to mature, which is when you bring the plants indoors—where they will continue to produce fruit all winter long. And the best part is that this variety can thrive on lower levels of light: all you need to successfully overwinter your Grandpa’s Siberian Home Peppers indoors is a sunny windowsill.

Another great type of heirloom pepper is the Chimayo pepper, which originates from the farming town of Chimayo, New Mexico, famous for its chili. Chimayo pepper plants grow to be 45 to 60 centimetres tall and will produce tapered fruit that is 10 to 15 centimetres long. These peppers begin green and will turn red as they ripen and are said to be one of the most magnificent-tasting peppers available. The heat levels are on the mild side—measuring only 1,000 to 5,000 SHUs—and they are ideal for drying because their flesh and skin is quite thin.

The Chimayo pepper, which can be easily cultivated indoors, has a few characteristics that set it apart from other peppers.

It’s an early variety, maturing in 60 to 70 days, and will actually begin to flower when it is still a seedling about 10 centimetres tall. This makes the Chimayo pepper a great choice if you are growing them outdoors in a short-season part of the world— and when growing them indoors, it simply means more peppers in less time.

The world of heirloom peppers is one of endless possibilities, a world where every pepper has a unique flavour, colour and level of heat. Whether you are using peppers for chili, pickling, drying or just adding spice to any of your favourite dishes, it is hard to imagine ever tiring of the never-ending variety of peppers that can be grown in your own home. MY

Resources: heritageharvestseed.com ecoseeds.com seedlibrary.com davesgarden.com

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

19

VERMICOMPOSTING: Worms and Recycling

by Michael Bloch

Recycling is certainly more prevalent these days, but we are also consuming a lot more and therefore generating more waste per person (on average) than we were a couple of decades ago.

Something most of us can do to minimize the amount of garbage we send to landfills is to compost our organic waste such as newspapers, vegetable waste, cardboard, even coffee grinds and eggshells. There’s a very easy way to do so that has minimal smell, doesn’t take up much space, can chew through a heck of a lot of waste quickly and leave you with a most sought after product.

The workers you’ll need to assist you are worms and the process is called vermicomposting. The worms require minimal care, are quiet, never go on strike and are incredibly cheap to maintain. Setting up a worm farm isn’t terribly expensive; ready-made farms can cost as little as $50 and the initial worms about $15. A worm farm can cut down your waste by a minimum of 25 per cent. Over a year that translates into hundreds of pounds of waste diverted from the landfill.

The worms spend their entire lives eating your trash, stopping only to reproduce. In fact, worms don’t actually sleep, at least not in the same way humans do. However, they 20

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

do spend long periods completely inactive in a state called estivation.

A pound of worms (around 4,000) can eat half a pound of organic material in 24 hours. What’s left after their digestion, called castings, is one of the best and safest fertilizers around.

It’s also pH neutral. Castings feel and smell like good soil because effectively that’s all they are; in fact, it’s said that worm castings are five times richer in nutrients than good topsoil.

Castings aren’t the only valuable product created; a fluid called leachate that seeps through the material the worms digest is also highly prized. It is brown in colour and has no odour. Worm tea, another non-smelly popular worm byproduct, is made by soaking worm castings in water.

So, what can you feed your worms?

• coffee grounds • paper • cardboard including egg cartons

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Vermicomposting: Worms and recycling

• vegetable peelings and waste • eggshells The general rule of thumb is if the waste is plant based, worms can deal with it, with a couple of exceptions: • pineapple contains an enzyme that will dissolve the worms • citrus and highly acidic vegetables such as onions (okay in small amounts) • green grass clippings should be added sparingly as large amounts generate excess heat and produce ammonia, which will kill the worms

Worm Farms!

You can purchase worm farms or make one yourself.

You’ll need: • A plastic tub with a lid • A pan for leachate runoff • Spacers to place between the tub and the catchment pan Simply drill a series of small holes in the walls of the tub to allow air to circulate and holes in the bottom to allow for drainage. Don’t be too concerned about worms escaping, as they don’t like the light. If worms are escaping, it means there is something wrong with the farm; either it is too dry, too damp or too acidic.

You never have to worry about your worms overpopulating, as they will self-regulate reproduction. The more waste that’s available, the more the worms will reproduce; but don’t overfeed them in the early stages while your population is getting established.

To start your worm farm off: • Place a layer of small pebbles in the bottom to assist with drainage.

• Add a couple of loose layers of damp newspaper, building it up to a few centimetres or so thick.

• Then it’s just a case of adding waste as it becomes available.

The worms will chew their way up through the material leaving their castings behind. When your tub is full and you can fit any more waste in, don’t start pushing it down as you’ll most likely crush your composting pals. Remove the layer of waste and a few inches of castings, as this will contain most of your worms. With what’s left, put it to one side for use 22

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on your garden, add the scraps and worms back in and you’re all set to go again.

If you purchase a large worm farm, you’ll find that most have removable panels at the bottom of the sides to allow for easy removal of castings. It’s kinder on the worms and less mess for you as well.

For castings and leachate, while you can use them as is without dilution, the recommended mix is one part leachate/ castings to four parts soil or water.

Other vermicomposting tips: • Use proper composting worms; garden worms won’t be effective.

• Never add any sort of animal products to the farm, including dairy.

• Waste mix should be kept moist, not too dry or wet.

• A sign of mix that’s too wet is a methane-type odour and worms trying to escape.

• Dampen paper and cardboard products before adding.

• Keep the farm in a shady place. MY

“Pineapple contains an enzyme that will dissolve the worms.”

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

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by Dr. Lynette Morgan

Emerging research reveals simple, modern solutions to help even beginner gardeners fight back against Pythium so your plants feel better fast.

Pythium. The word strikes fear into many a hydroponic gardener—even those who have never encountered a plague of this nature have usually heard what a scourge this pathogen can be. Unfortunately Pythium can strike at any time and many a new grower has been disillusioned by an outbreak of wilting leaves and browned roots. Pythium is the genetic name for over 50 species in the class Oomycetes, of which only a few are common on hydroponic crops. Pythium ultimum, Pythium aphanidermantum and Pythium dissotocum are the main culprits we encounter in soilless systems, although the range of species being found to cause highly damaging attacks has been growing.

In hydroponic spinach, for example, there is one species of Pythium that attacks under cool conditions and another that thrives at higher temperatures.

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tHe pytHiUm predator

Pythium sPrEad and infEction Pythium is termed a water mould, as it thrives under wet conditions and produces zoospores, which spread by water and through nutrient solutions. In most hydroponic systems there are few natural enemies of Pythium, so once it starts multiplying a large source of inoculum can rapidly develop.

The spread of Pythium is relatively simple. After infection, the Spinach is particularly prone to Pythium infection, having two species of pathogen produces two kinds of spore—the oospores, which Pythium that can attack at high and low temperatures. have a thick wall and can survive dry conditions for months or years, germinating again when conditions are favourable to be due to the large volumes of mucilage produced by the for infection, and the zoospores. Released from diseased tisroots, which attracts Pythium zoospores. Mucilage is organic sue, these have a pair of beating flagella by which the zoomatter or exudate released by healthy root tissue, and it often spores swim toward a new plant surface, attracted by chemiappears as a whitish mass around and in the root mat. Pycals released by plant roots. Once the zoospores have made thium feeds on organic material such as mucilage, multiplies, it to a new site they encyst and infect the plant to start the then launches a full-blown attack on the root system. Another cycle again. Infection rates with Pythium zoospores are much factor that predisposes indoor or higher in hydroponic greenhouse hydroponic crops to systems with low Pythium outbreaks is the presence levels of oxygen in “older lder plants might be heavily infected for of tiny black shore flies or fungus the root zone, which gnats, which are attracted to wet some time before any signs are is why overwatering, growing media and rotting vegwhich reduces the seen, and often the rate at which etation. Fungus gnat larvae (small air-filled porosity of a symptoms appear is dependent on white grubs that feed on roots) also growing substrate, is ingest Pythium oospores, which often a major contemperature.” then stay in their guts until the tributing factor to a insects become flying adults, ready Pythium outbreak. to carry the infection on to a new crop. This is why Pythium, One of the main problems with Pythium infection is that which in itself is much more common under overly damp while it can rapidly cause symptoms such as damping off conditions, is often associated with the presence of fungus on young seedlings, older plants might be heavily infected gnat flies and larvae. for some time before any signs are seen, and often the rate at which symptoms appear is dependent on temperature. At higher temperatures, more rapid browning and die-back of PyPythium control thium-infected roots is common, while at lower temperatures As with many root diseases, Pythium is exmany crops don’t show any of the usual symptoms while the tremely difficult to control once it is prespathogen is busy breeding and building up levels of inoculum ent at high inoculum rates in a hydroponic in the root zone. Many growers are often not even aware they system, and prevention is the best form of have Pythium, as it can attack the tiny feeder roots without defense. If the water supply is suspected of any obvious signs until the leaves suddenly start a midday wilt carrying Pythium spores—which is more pattern, by which time there is little chance of control and common in well or ground water—slow recovery. Typical symptoms of Pythium infection are die-back sand filtration or filtrating slowly through of recently germinated seedlings, browning of root tips, loss of 61 to 91 centimetres of granulated feeder roots and the gradual spread of brown, rotten root tisrockwool has been found to be effective. sue. The tops of the plants may remain green, but can become The correct dose of UV can also treat a wilted during the warmer part of the day. Plant stunting, lack water supply and will reduce the populaof growth and eventual death usually occur rapidly with severe tion of swimming zoospores. However, UV infections. Milder outbreaks might cause continual, moderate can’t be used to treat oospores already in the loss of feeder roots, with the plant continually trying to replace plant’s root zone or growing media. There these. Short, stubby, thickened roots may also be seen, and overhas been some evidence that the use of soluble all growth is often severely reduced. silica at 100 ppm can help control Pythium Some plants—such as cucumbers in solution culture—are in cucumbers by strengthening the plant, while more prone to Pythium attack than others, and this is thought many other studies have found that the treatment

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of nutrient solution with a small dose of non-ionic surfactant (certain types of detergent) can reduce and even eliminate a Pythium outbreak. Much of the current research into control of root rot pathogens in hydroponics is focusing on the use of beneficial microbe species, either alone or in combination with effective fungicides and biocontrol agents.

Pythium PrEvEntion factors 1. consider oxygenn. A high level of oxygen around the roots is proven to be suppressive of Pythium and some of the other root rot pathogens as well. Oxygen in most of our hydroponic systems comes from pores in the substrate (the air-filled capacity of the growing media), which holds air. Air has approximately 21 per cent oxygen, while nutrient solution or water can only hold six to 13 ppm depending on temperature. So while aeration of the nutrient can certainly help, especially in solution culture systems, plants can get more oxygen directly from the air. Choosing a highly aerated media—such as a coarser grade of coco fibre with long fibres that open out the substrate, goodquality rockwool or chunky perlite—all mean more oxygenation around the roots, provided of course no one is being too heavy-handed with the irrigation. Forced aeration of the nutrient solution is also beneficial in all hydroponic systems. Creating a good level of turbulence in solution culture systems may also be a valuable technique, because when the flow of nutrient solution is turbulent, Pythium zoospores shed their flagella and encyst, losing the ability to sense and be attracted to infection sites on the roots.

2. don’t ever overwater.

Review your watering pro procedures. Nutrient, when applied to a substrate, displaces the air-filled pockets—then when draining fully occurs, more air is drawn down into the root system. But if watering is too frequent, the air-filled pores remain saturated, and the plant has less access to the oxygen contained in air.

Overwatering is the most common cause of Pythium in hydroponics, and it seems most inex inexperienced growers tend to water plants to death without

understanding the root system requirement for breathing and absorbing oxygen for respiration.

3. Keep the temperatures down. Maybe investing in a solution chiller or even a bottle of ice in the nutrient tank when it’s hot is worth considering. Solution chilling to lower the risk of Pythium is probably a better option in a continually circulating solution culture system where the chilled nutrient can keep root temperatures down to an optimal state, but shading the root zone can also be easily carried out. Keeping the air temperature down with evaporative or air conditioning is also an option. Pythium has been proven to be far more aggressive when conditions are hot, and less oxygen is held in the nutrient solution as temperature increases as well. Combining an overly warm root zone with a bit too much irrigation and a heavy, saturated growing media is going to cause problems sooner or later.

4. maintain biodiversity in the root zone. Heavy use of sanitation chemicals was once thought to be the answer to preventing Pythium attack; however, research has shown that even with very thorough cleaning and use of disinfectants, Pythium is not always completely eradicated, and new sources of the disease are pretty much everywhere. Encouraging a healthy root zone with a highly diverse range of microbes is a more effective long-term approach. Recently disinfected hydroponic systems are devoid of useful microbes, allowing opportunists such as Pythium an open field for attack. A well-seasoned system might be a better approach, as would be the introduction of beneficial microbes.

There are many thousands of species of beneficials, so natural inoculates such as fresh vermicast (worm castings) incorporated into the growing media are worth trying, as are the microbial products on the market. Hydroponic systems are often low in microbial diversity and density, particularly with regard to those species that might control root rot disease pathogens such as Pythium. However, several species of specific microbes have been shown to have potential for controlling root rot pathogen in certain crops. These microbes include Pseudomonas chlororaphis, Pseudomonas fluorescens, some species of Bacillus, Gliocladium, Lysobacter and Trichoderma, which indicates that inoculation with beneficial microbes of the correct species could be an effective control option if carried out correctly.

5. Eliminate stress. Environmental stress is one factor that often brings on a Pythium attack. Keeping temperatures within range; supplying plenty of oxygen and sufficient light (Pythium attack is more common under low light in certain plant species); applying correct watering practices; and reducing transplant shock are all good methods of preventing problems. Healthy plants are more able to resist and defend themselves from Pythium, while those that have been weakened or damaged will release phenolic compounds, which signal to any lurking Pythium spores that it’s a good time to attack.

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tHe pytHiUm predator

6. reduce Pythium inoculation. Unfortunately, Pythium is pretty much everywhere in our environment. However, it is most commonly introduced on new transplants—which probably will appear symptomless—in water (well or ground water in particular); on feet, shoes or clothing; carried by animals; as wind-blown dust; or sometimes in growing media such as peat or substrates, which might have been in contact with soil or plant matter such as compost.

7. don’t let the gnats attack. One of the more common methods of spread is via fungus gnats and shore flies. These tiny insects are attracted to overly damp media, and are common in some hydroponic systems. Unfortunately, the larvae of these flies not only chew on the root system, they also carry Pythium spores in their gut and mouth parts and are responsible for transmission of the disease. Fungus gnats can be controlled with commercial products or with beneficial predators, or by reducing watering, removing any rotting vegetation or covering the surface of growing media.

8. Give some thought to biofilms, root tissue fragments and mucilage. When cleaning out a system or even while the crop is still developing, areas of biofilm (a layer of grime and organic matter) can build up inside the irrigation system. Old root fragments are a common source of Pythium infection, and can be difficult to eradicate from growing media, although oxidants such as hydrogen peroxide will dispose of organic matter if applied at a strong enough dosage. Mucilage is more difficult to manage—some crops, such as cucumber, which produce vast quantities of this root exudate material, are best not grown in recirculating systems because of this. While all roots produce some organic compounds, the buildup can become higher in recirculating systems in which there is little biodynamic diversity, as beneficial microbes are responsible for much of the breakdown of mucilage.

9. surfactants are worth trying if a Pythium outbreak is starting to occur. While many commercial NFT growers have experimented with the use of non-ionic surfactants in their nutrient for Pythium and other root rot pathogen control, the results are somewhat inconclusive, as many factors other than pathogens can cause similar symptoms. Many researchers have carried out trials into the effect of surfactants for Pythium control in hydroponics with promising results, although dose rates and the surfactant products used differ from study to study. Non-ionic surfactants (detergents) have been proven to control Pythium in nutrient solutions by having a lytic effect—they dissolve the plasma membrane of the fungus structures, killing them. Surfactants might cause quite a bit of foaming at the nutrient tank in recirculating systems, but may be worth trying—particularly if all else fails. MY

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29 CU by frank rauscher

Nutrient Deficiencies and Growing Like a Pro There are plenty of excellent studies and reports available describing which nutrients do what for our plants and the symptoms we are likely to see with over- or under-concentrations of these nutrients in the soil. Let’s take one nutrient—copper—and look at its role in an example of nutrient deficiency before getting into soil amendments and testing.

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Maximum Yield | March/April 2012

Copper has always interested me. It is one of the essential micronutrients and is often found to be deficient in organic peat products that are used as potting soils. Because the soil is organic it is not likely to have had much exposure to copper and so doesn’t contain much of it. But how does copper benefit a plant and what does a lack of copper do?

Respiration is an important function for plants, helping them to break apart carbohydrates in the presence of oxygen and obtain the energy trapped from the crucial function of photosynthesis.

Without respiration a plant can’t make much use of photosynthesis.

Respiration and protein synthesis each need copper, as does the production of chlorophyll, so it would appear that this particular nutrient could actually have a pretty big role to play in your garden.

Sandy, light, loamy and easily worked soils are often prone to copper deficiency, but these are just the type of soils we want for our container plants—we don’t want to grow in pots filled with clay.

“Respiration and protein synthesis each need copper, as does the production of chlorophyll, so it would appear that this particular nutrient could actually have a pretty big role to play in your garden.”

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Nutrient Deficiencies and Growing Like a Pro

A mild copper deficiency is visible on this hydro-grown crop.

Copper is also easily bound to organic matter, which means that much of the copper in potting soil is likely to be unavailable to the plant because of this binding.

Providing adequate nitrogen is an important factor in obtaining good plant growth and vigour, but high levels of nitrogen in your plants can delay the movement of copper from older to newer leaves. Higher levels of other nutrients will also have negative impacts on your plants’ abilities to use copper. Farmers who observe copper deficiencies are almost always managers striving for optimal yields—the symptoms of deficiency may be as innocent as leaf roll, but the ultimate issue is yield.

Crops grown on marginally copper-deficient soils may have yield losses of 20 per cent while not exhibiting any visual symptoms of a deficiency.You’ll not likely be able to tell if you have a deficiency capable of causing yield loss just by looking at your plants.You should make sure to use nutrients that include copper to address this issue—look at the label of the fertilizer you use.What else can you do? Keeping your pH in the proper range is a good start.

Sulphur works to lower pH but if you aren’t careful it can also lower beneficial bacteria levels, as it is also used as a disinfectant. Some of the more successful agents in this pH battle are amino acids and beneficial bacteria.Amino acids directly impact pH through their acidity, while one function of certain beneficial bacteria in soil is that they react with organic matter and also end up producing acids, which lower the pH level.As the chart indicates, some nutrients will get locked up at low pH levels, so what you want to achieve is a balance.

Being aware of the pH of your soil is obviously important and there are test kits that do a decent job in evaluating it.. Kits also abound for testing nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, the primary macronutrients. Beyond these, however, the indoor gardener is generally in the dark about what’s in their soil. If the crop that you are growing is sufficiently valuable you may want to have your soil analyzed by a lab to better understand what needs to be done to help produce the yield you are looking for.

I’ve had many soil samples evaluated by laboratories over the years and found that some labs are much more reliable than others.

The cost of lab work can vary greatly as well and just because the price is higher doesn’t mean the results will be more reliable! You’ll need to do some research to find the right lab for you. For starters, don’t worry about having to ship your soil to a lab—just finding the right lab is your number one issue.

Often the recommendation to use a local lab is based on the premise that they will better understand local soil, but of course indoor growers usually use soils from many different parts of the country and the cost of freight is not generally the biggest part of the testing expense anyway.You’ll be looking at a minimum of somewhere in the neighborhood of $100 for a complete soil test. Maybe you are a better shopper than I am and can find a better deal. Some labs are certified and some are not and you should ask about this—the costs of the tests are important, but their accuracy is crucial. Another consideration is the organization of the lab itself.

You don’t want the results of someone else’s test given to you, do you? This is not common, but it does happen. Ask the lab for customer references. Ask to see sample reports and see if

“Being aware of the pH of your soil is obviously important and there are test kits that do a decent job in evaluating it. Kits also abound for testing nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, the primary macronutrients.”

A more severe copper deficiency visible on greenery.

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Maximum Yield | March/April 2012

they will help you interpret the results, as these reports can be complex to understand. Finally, the Internet is a great tool for finding a quality lab.

If you know where the nutrient levels in your soil are to start with and where they are somewhere around the halfway point, you should have a good idea on how your nutrient and watering protocol is performing. If you stick with the same potting soil, you won’t need to re-test for the initial phase. If your crop is really important to you, testing your soil in a methodic way can yield genuine benefits. I say methodic because you need to be consistent with what you do in order to gradually improve your results. Use top-quality soils, nutrients and water. Take notes on what you’re doing so you have some basis for your comparisons and so you’ll be able to notice changes in the future. Be a good agronomist and get the yield and quality you want—if your investment in your garden really matters, be professional about how you grow! MY

A pH reading is the measure of how acid or base an aqueous (waterbased) solution is. Purified water is de-ionized and has a pH of 7.0, which is called neutral. The lower the pH, the more acidic the solution.

Soil pH affects the uptake of copper, which—much like zinc—enjoys maximum uptake in the pH range of 4.7 to 7.2. Tap water in many parts of the country can be as high as 8.0 to 8.4. You should measure the pH level of your tap water to help you understand whether your water supply is contributing to a copper deficiency, or you could use RO (reverse osmosis) water to avoid the problem entirely.

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Say What?

Master the following 29 hydro words and phrases and master your garden Aeration

Ebb and flow hydroponics

A condition where plenty of oxygen is present.

A plant-like microorganism that grows where there is plenty of water and some light.

A hydration system that works by flooding the media containing the plant roots. The media sits in a reservoir of water and nutrient supply for a specified period of time. The water and nutrient supply is then drained. Draining allows the roots to access needed oxygen for maximum growth.

Callus

Effluent

A mass of cells that forms at the bottom of the cut end of a stem that starts growing roots.

Liquid/solution that flows out of a media.

Cation

An ion in the root environment that has a positive charge.

A measure of the electrical resistance of a nutrient solution or media, used to determine the level of ions.

Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC)

Etiolation

Algal

Electric Conductivity (EC)

A measure of the ability of the growing medium to adsorb exchangeable cations that are available to the plant and will resist the leaching nutrients during watering.

The process of growing the plant in total darkness for a period of time.

Cloning

Where plants grow and complete their life cycle on top of water with nutrients.

The asexual propagation of a plant; cuttings or grafts are taken from a motherplant to reproduce a plant identical to the motherplant.

Decisiemens per meter (dS/m)

Floating Hydroponic Systems Fungal A disease-causing microorganism.

A unit of measure for EC.

Germinate

Drip irrigation

A process where seeds start growing by producing leaves and roots.

A method of watering plants where water is applied slowly as it drops onto the growth medium.

Hydroponics A method of growing plants using water and nutrients only for root development. Roots are not housed in soil or any type of soilless media.

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Inert Having no chemical or biological action or value.

Leachate Solution that drains from the growing media.

NFT hydroponic systems A technique for growing plants hydroponically in which the plant roots are suspended in a slow-moving stream of nutrient solution.

Parthenocarpic A plant that can produce fruits without pollination.

pH The negative logarithm of hydrogen ion concentration to the base 10. It is a value between one and 14.

PPM Parts per million.

Propagation The process of multiplying plants either sexually or asexually. Sexual propagation of plants uses a seed to reproduce the plant. Asexual propagation uses a graft or cutting to reproduce plants. Asexual reproduction produces plants that are identical to the motherplant. Asexual propagation is also known as cloning.

Recycled and reusable watering systems Where water is collected, stored, cleaned and recirculated in order to water plants.

Soilless Media Any plant growing media other than soil.

Sterile Clean and free from any kind of microorganisms.

Sub-irrigation systems A method of supplying water to plant roots under the roots.

Vermiculite A growing medium that has aluminium-iron-magnesium silicate. It is lightweight and highly porous. MY

The hydro glossary was compiled by the Dr. P Team at steadyGROWpro: Bill DeBoer (lab technician), Todd Trobaugh (education specialist), Kelvin Frye (national sales manager) and, of course, Dr. Pawan Srivastava (horticulture scientist).

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GroWerS KnoW

by Raquel Neofit

(About Hy droponic s)

A Frank Conversation

With Frank Donato, Mornington Peninsula Hydroponic

One successful entrepreneur is riding on the tails of an idea that he believes will soon revolutionise an already booming industry in Australia.

Hydroponic enthusiast, garden problem solver and Maximum Yield’s own “Growers Know” author Raquel Neofit gets an inside tour of Mornington Peninsula Hydroponics, a family-owned hydroponic business in Mount Martha,Victoria.

Past

On a 10-acre egg farm in Mount Martha, overlooking the hills of Arthurs Seat, lived the Donato family and their chickens.

Frank Donato helped his father Nicola tend their chickens.

Eventually the smell of chooks, the constant buzz of the great Aussie fly and interference with the egg industry got the best of Nicola, and in 2002, at 70-years-old, he passed the reigns of his egg business down to his entrepreneurial-minded son Frank.

Nicola was no stranger to business ownership himself.

He allocated sections of his land to build a child care centre and a general store to ensure a profit from his land. For years he leased out the child care centre and ran the general store himself, also growing just enough tomato plants to sell on-site in the store.

When Nicola retired he leased out the general store to fund his retirement and passed the lease of the child care centre onto Frank along with the farm land. Shortly after the Donato changing of the guard, the egg industry Frank Donato with his vibrant basil crop

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in Victoria was de-regulated and profit in egg production collapsed. Frank was left to find an alternative use for his family’s property.

With his educational background in agricultural science and a keen eye for a profit, Frank turned his attention to hydroponics.

Present

This fall Frank guided MY’s Raquel Neofit around his family’s grassy 10-acre Mount Martha property, giving her a personal tour of his hydroponic greenhouses.

“We produce a variety of herbs—basil, chives and coriander— for Coles Supermarkets, and lettuce, rocket and dill for the markets at Flemington, Red Hill and Mornington,” he says.

They also deal with Ritchies and Super IGA stores and they’ve recently started selling tomatoes and cucumbers to markets.

Our first stop on the tour is a plastic double-layered greenhouse converted from a chook shed that now boasts a healthy crop of the sweetest tomatoes I have ever tasted.

“I planted the tomatoes for my wife Iwana; she likes tomatoes,” he says. “Happy wife, happy life,” he later adds.

Apart from wanting to get away from the smell of the chooks and flies, Iwana was the other catalyst for Frank’s move into hydroponics. Iwana was diagnosed with a tumour in her leg and the result left her unable to bend at the knee. “Hydroponics was perfect for her; the tables were at waist height,” he says.

Their 10-acres of land is home to seven greenhouses with a total growing space of over 3,000 square metres or around 33,000 thousand ‘holes’ for plants to grow at the same time;

The main component of Mornington Peninsula Hydroponics – the sturdy, disease-resistant basil.

but his pride and joy is his smart greenhouse. “This is the best designed greenhouse because it lets the heat escape from the top,” he says. This is one of the greenhouses where he’s experimenting with LED lighting.

Everything in Frank’s smart greenhouse is computer controlled; humidity sensors crack open the roof if it gets too steamy, and when the wind is blowing from the north, it will close that side down automatically.

PH levels are still monitored manually though. They are naturally high on the Peninsula, around 8.0 pH on his farm, and needs daily monitoring. “We had an automated system,” he says.

“But I wasn’t happy with it.”

As we make our way out to check out his basil crop, the main component of his business, I comment on how nice it would be working with views of Arthurs Seat. “Yes,” he agrees. “But we’re hoping to be working out of a warehouse within two years.

That move depends on the development of a successful LED light system.

“That is the way forward,” he says, speaking of LED lights.

“They’re going to revolutionise the way we produce crops,” he says excitedly. If the LED research proves successful,Victoria will begin its industrialised revolution and Frank and his family will move to a warehouse boasting seven stacked tiers of produce, each with its own layer of LED lights, accessible via cherry picker. Frank plans to fit his entire business into a 330,000 square metre factory, producing more yield at a lower cost.

As we wind up the interview I ask if he will miss the views of the rolling hills when they move to the warehouse.

He chuckles, “Yeah, maybe,” he says quietly.

“Depends if I’m making money out of it!” MY

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TalKInG ShoP aT a GLance company: aquatic Oasis owners: stephen Mogg location: 2/33 smith street capalaba, Queensland Phone: 07 3245 7777 email: sales@aquaticoasis.com.au or info@aquaticoasis.com.au Motto: “Water conversation and relaxation.”

Water on the Brain Stephen Mogg of Aquatic Oasis comes by his fascination with water and all its uses in the world of hydroponics honestly—his dad got him started in the irrigation business at a very early age…

Ever since Stephen Mogg was a little kid, he was fascinated and intrigued by water and its importance for all facets of life on our planet. Stephen was involved with the water industry from a very young age as his father Stan was managing director of—and a majority shareholder in—Australia’s largest irrigation manufacturer, PPI Corporation. Stephen was able to work in a bunch of different jobs within the many departments at this corporation on school holidays and after school—he worked on the injection and extrusion plastic-manufacturing machines, as well as in the packaging department.

Later he even worked in the research and development department as a lab assistant, carrying out tests to ensure the products met a variety of Australian Standard quality assurances. From there he moved into the export department, conducting research for the company assessing the potential for hydroponic equipment sales in various markets and helping to design a small balcony-based hydroponic kit for the Asian market

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Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

Part of his research duties entailed searching for online information, reading books and visiting the local stores in Brisbane. Through this research Stephen found a small 90 square metre shop for sale—called East Coast Hydroponics— located at Capalaba on the outer edge of Brisbane. Armed with a loan from his father and full of youthful enthusiasm, Stephen took on the challenge of running his own business at the age of 20—he was at that time the youngest owner in the Australian hydroponics industry! Being so young added to the trials and tribulations of running a small business for Stephen, as some suppliers were initially a little sceptical about opening accounts for someone so inexperienced. Although Stephen made his share of mistakes early on and learned some valuable lessons as a result, he was fortunate enough to gain the support of his suppliers and was able to rely on his dad’s business experience as well in those first few tough years.

Stephen realized early on that diversity in his shop’s product ranges and services

would set him apart from the rest. He had all kinds of great ideas—which he was actually able to start introducing once the store began making bigger sales and generating more product turnover. His team progressively added new departments to the store throughout the years, beginning with rainwater tanks and accessories, irrigation, ponds and water features and later adding aquaponics and vertical grow walls.

In 2006 Stephen and his crew moved into their own custombuilt 360 square metre retail shop and warehouse. This allowed them to increase their stock-holding capabilities—Stephen now carries 50 times the amount of stock the original shop could manage—and to employ a greater range of displays. At this point a family—and he strongly believes they have contributed Stephen and his employees felt that a name and motto change enormously to the success of his business and the satisfaction of was needed to reflect the greater variety of products offered his customers. by the new business and came up with Aquatic Oasis: ‘Water “Within the first three months of operation I was lucky Conservation and Relaxation.’ enough to meet Marc, who came from South Australia and was “I think that the hydroponics industry has so much potential one of the pioneers of the industry down there about 20 years for growth,” Stephen tells us, “with water conservation and ago. He has helped guide me through running the business backyard food production becoming hot topics in the general over the years. Marc brings plenty of experience running a community. The Internet has become one of the greatest variety of shops and has also worked in the manufacturing and tools people can use to gain information—although I strongly wholesaling areas of the industry.” believe that the Internet is also the largest challenge that faces Over the years Stephen and his staff have worked with the retail hydroponic industry. There is a phenomenal amount many educational facilities and government organisations— of information on the web—but there is no control on how most recently, with the University of Queensland, conducting correct or relevant this information is. Some of the information research into soil salinity and plant tolerances, as well as our customers tell us really shocks and concerns us!” with DEEDI (Department of Employment Economic “One of our other main concerns with the Internet,” Stephen Development and Innovation) on trials with root zone continues, “is the discount online hydroponic stores selling disease in commercial hydroponic crops. products at prices well below what retail outlets can offer “We are also currently working toward redesigning our because of the ever-increasing costs associated with operating website to be more user-friendly,” adds Stephen. “It will have a retail store. In saying that, I strongly believe a retail store can more relevant information and be easier to update. We are offer so much more than these sites can—such as excellent working on having a special feature, too—a member’s portal— personalised advice, after-sales service, prompt warranty claims, which will supply far greater, more in-depth information.” the chance to touch, feel and interact with stock and products, Stephen’s final thoughts on running a successful hydro business? a respect for customer privacy and that personal touch you get “Every morning I wake up feeling privileged that I get to go from one-on-one interaction.” to work in a job I truly love and thoroughly enjoy!” MY What Stephen believes has made his business grow and succeed is the quality of personalised advice that he has been able to offer his customers.

“I encourage all of our staff to give as much quality advice as they can without showing any particular bias toward any particular product range or style of growing technique,” he confirms. “Another key to our success has been supplying only the best-quality products on the market, products that have been proven to work and offer the greatest value for money.”

Stephen feels privileged to work with The friendly staff at Aquatic Oasis from left: Zoe Frisch, Kristine Shadwick, Stephen Mogg, Marc Planche, Shane Ross and Dylan Ross his current staff—which feels more like Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

43

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

AUSTRALIA ACT

South Pacific Hydroponics #2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609 South Pacific Hydroponics 70 Oatley Court , Belconnen ACT 2617

(02) 6239 2598 (02) 6251 0600

NEW SOUTH WALES ABC Aquaculture 54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259 (61) 2 4393 3131 ASE Hydroponics Factory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 (02) 9477 3710 Ballina Hydro 3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478 (02) 6686 7321 Brunswick Hydro & Aquarium Supplies 19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 (02) 6685 1552 Criscete Hydroponics and Organics Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5779 Dr. Van Der Bloom’s Hydroponics Supplies 5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450 (02) 6651 9992 Dubbo Hydro & Tobacconist 42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830 (02) 6885 1616 Ezi Grow Hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro 1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 (02) 4588 5826 Ezi Grow Hydro 56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro - Head Office 18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795 (02) 6337 1485 Favgro Hydroponics Growers 107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536 (02) 4472 7165 Felanza - Hydroponics 140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205 (02) 9556 1494 General Hydroponics 7/14 Sunnyholt Road, Blacktown NSW 9676 (02) 9676 8682 Grow Australia Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 (02) 9473 5000 Grow Your Own Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5179 Happy Grow Hydro 15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750 (02) 4732 2870 Hobby Grow 6/46 Through Street South Grafton NSW 2460 (04) 2283 8069 Home Harvest 423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216 (02) 9567 8841 Hyalite Moorebank 6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9824 3400 Hyalite Villawood 2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 (02) 9723 7199 Hydro Masta 100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 (02) 8812 2845 Hydro Masta Pty Ltd 76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121 (02) 9869 3011 Hydro Net 2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4334 6955 Hydro Place 1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287 (02) 4965 6595 Hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies 2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 (02) 4958 1489 Hydro Shop Pty Ltd Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 (02) 4960 0707 Hydro Supplies 57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (02) 9326 0307 Hydro Wise B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4333 5700 Hydroponics Grow All Year 14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 (02) 6921 5911 Hygrow Horticulture (Greenlite) 252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 (02) 9369 3928 Indoor Sun Shop 745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 (02) 9808 6511 Indoor Sun Shop Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9822 4700 International Fans PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 (02) 9833 7500 Kyper’s Tools and Hydroponics Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mullumbimby NSW 2482 (02) 6684 4928 Lismore Hydro 1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311

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Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each state.

Lismore Hydroponics rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 Northern Nursery Supplies Pty Ltd 14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 Nowra Hydro 68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 Nutriflo Hydroponic Systems 19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 Parkview Plants 250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 Port Pumps and Irrigation 20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 Quik Grow 510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 Quick Grow 823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 Quik Grow Pty Ltd 490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 Simple Grow Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 Tweed Coast Hydroponics 2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 Uncle Wal’s Gardenland 31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 Home Grown Aquaponics 13/8a-8b Hartley Drive, Thornton NSW 2322 Westside Lighting & Electrical (Ezi Range) PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 Wollongong Hydroponic Center 318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 NORTHERN TERRITORY Katherine Hydroponics Centre 17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 QUEENSLAND A Happy Medium Hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 Allgrow Hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 Aquatic Oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 Billabong Hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 D-Bay Hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 E.T. Grow Home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 Eye Lighting Australia Pty Ltd PO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 Green Power Hydroponics 2/80 Beerburrum Road, Caboolture QLD 4510 Grow Hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 Hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt.,Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 Hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 Hydroponics Today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 Indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068 J&K Hydroponics 10 Wacol Station Road, Wacol, Brisbane QLD, 4076 KY Garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 Nerang Hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 North Queensland Hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 Northern Hydroponics 383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 Pioneer Hydroponics 194 Doyles Road, Pleystowe QLD 4741 SA Hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 Simply Hydroponics Gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211

(02) 6621 3311 (02) 6563 1599 (02) 4423 3224 (02) 4323 1599 (02) 4423 0599 (02) 6581 1272 (02) 9636 7023 (02) 9546 8642 (02) 9568 2900 (02) 9604 0469 (07) 5524 8588 (02) 6550 0221 (02) 4028 6388 1 800 661 475 (02) 4225 8773

(08) 8972 1730

(07) 3809 3322 (07) 3376 7222 (07) 3245 7777 (07) 4126 3551 (07) 3204 8324 (07) 5591 6501 (07) 3335 3556 (07) 5428 1133 (07) 3816 3206 (07) 5593 7385 (07) 4091 3217 (07) 4035 5422 (07) 4683 3133

(07) 3271 6210 (07) 3375 9098 (07) 5527 4155 (07) 4728 3957 (07) 4054 5884 (07) 4959 2016 (07) 3285 1355 (07) 5596 2250

Sunstate Hydroponics 1137 Ipswitch Road, Moorooka QLD 4105 Sunstate Hydroponics 67 Aerodrome Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 The Hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 Tumbling Waters Hydroponics 2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 Walsh’s Seeds Garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 SOUTH AUSTRALIA Amazon Aquariums & Gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Ascot Park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 Barry’s Hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 Bolzon Home & Garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 Complete Hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 Country Hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 D & W Dependable Hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 Festive Hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 Fulham Gardener Nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 Glandore Hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 Greener then Green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noarlunga South SA 51 Greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 Greenhouse Superstore Royal Park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 Ground-Up Service Nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 Harvest Time Hydroponics Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 Hindmarsh Hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 Highland Hydro 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 Hong Kong Hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Hydro Heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 Hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 Hydro Technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 Hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 Hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 Koko’s Hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 Larg’s Bay Garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 Martins Road Hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 Mitre 10 Drive In 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 New Age Hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 Owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 Professional Hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 Professional Hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 Professional Hydroponics 113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA

(07) 3848 5288 (07) 5479 1011 (07) 3354 1588 (07) 4096 6443 (07) 4636 1077

(08) 8359 1800 (08) 8357 4700 (08) 8281 4066 (08) 8265 0665 (08) 8396 3133 (08) 8258 4022 (08) 8645 3105 (08) 8287 6399 (08) 8523 5100 (08) 8235 2004 (08) 8447-1122 (08) 8371 5777 (08) 8386 2596 (08) 8382 0100 (08) 8447 5899 (08) 8264 9455 (08) 8244 0222 (08) 8346 9461 (08) 8395 4455 (08) 8260 2000 (08) 8391 1880 (08) 8272 2000 (08) 8241 5022 (08) 8377 1200 (08) 8262 8323 (08) 8260 5463 (08) 8242 3788 (08) 8283 4011 (08) 8445 1813 (08) 8351 9100 (08) 8528 6008 (08) 8353 0133 (08) 8365 5172 (08) 8532 3441

Seaton Hydroponics 129 Tapleys Hill Road Seaton SA 5023 Soladome Aquaculture & Hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 South Coast Hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 State Hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 Tea Tree Gully Hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 Two Wells Hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 Urban Grow Solutions 1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 West Garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 TASMANIA Advanced Hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 Ezy Grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 Garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 Green Acres Hydroponics Unit 1 46-48 Bingalong Rd, Mornington, TAS 7018 Growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 Hydroponics Systems 131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 Hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 Organic Garden Supplies Tas 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 Tas Hydroponic Supplies 99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 The Hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 The Hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428 VICTORIA Albury Hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 All Seasons Hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 Banksia Greenhouse and Outdoor Garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 Barb’s Hydro and Nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 Bayside Hydroponics Factory 2/8 Rutherford Road, Seaford Vic 3196 Belgrave Hydroponics 5/ 60-68 Colby Drive, Belgrave Heights Vic 3160 Brew ‘N’ Grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 Casey Hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 Casey Hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 Chronic Hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 Complete Garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 Discount Hydroponics 752 Waverley Road, Chadstone Vic 3148 Echuca Hydroponic Nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 Echuca Pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 Excel Distributors Pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 F.L.O.W. Plants and Environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 Gardensmart 810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 Global Hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 Greenleaf Hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844

(08)82682636 (08) 8362 8042 (08) 8384 2380 (08) 8341 5991 (08) 8264 9455 (08) 8520 2287 (08) 8322 0040 (08) 8255 1355

(03) 6344 5588 (03) 6243 9490 (03) 6330 1177 (03) 6245 1066 (03) 6273 6088 (03) 6278 3457 (03) 6435 4411 (03) 6424 7815 (03) 6272 2202 (03) 6273 1411 (03) 6340 2222

(03) 9540 8000 (03) 9540 8000 (03) 9801 8070 (03) 5674 2584 (03) 9775 0495 (03) 9754 3712 (03) 9783 3006 (03) 5996 3697 (03) 9796 3776 (03) 9646 8133 (03) 9311 9776 (03) 9568 1860 (03) 5480 2036 (03) 5480 7080 (03) 9495 0083 (03) 9510 6832 (03) 9769 1411 (03) 9356 9400 (03) 5176 0898

Greenleaf Hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 (03) 9739 7311 GreenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 (03) 9870 8566 Grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 (03) 9435 6425 Holland Forge Pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 (03) 9764 1372 Hydroware 59a Lara Way, Campbellfield, Vic, 3061 (03) 9357 8805 Hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452 Hyalite Bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946 Hyalite Global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400 Hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510 Indoor Garden Company 29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 (03) 9416 1699 Impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515 JB Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399 Just Hydroponics Deer Park Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861 Just Hydroponics Geelong Unit 7 36-38 Saunders street, North Geelong, VIC 3215 (03) 5278 6478 Latrove Valley Home Brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140 Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055 Melton Hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256 Midtown Hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300 One Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177 Pam’s Home Brew & Hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143 Palms & Plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 (08) 8285 7575 Prestige Hydroponics Pty. Ltd. S 2.10 Level 2, 343 Little Collins St. Melbourne VIC Australia 3000 61 4 187 81083 Shepparton Hydroponics 87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 (03) 5831 6433 Simply Hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 (03) 9360 9344 Simply Hydroponics 8, 59-61 Miller St., Epping 3076 (03) 9408 4677 Sunlite Hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 (03) 5222 6730 Simply Hydroponics - Pakenham Factory 6/3-11 Bate Close Pakenham, Victoria 3810 03 5940 9047 Sunray Hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 (03) 5023 6422 Supply Net International P/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 (88) 264-3600 The Hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 (03) 9761 0662 Waterworks Hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 (03) 9465 1455 WESTERN AUSTRALIA Accent Hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 Aqua Post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 Aquaponics Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 Bunbury Alternate Growing Supplies 8/13 Worcestor Bend, Davenport, WA 6230 Creative Hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 Great Southern Hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road, Bunbury WA 6230 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd.,Maddington WA 6109

(08) 9375 9355 (08) 9354 2888 1800 640 222 (08) 9725 7020 (08) 9528 1310 (08) 9721 8322 (08) 9452 0546

Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 Greenlite Hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 Growsmart Hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 Hydro Nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 Hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 Isabella’s Hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Johnson’s Nursery Garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 Neerabup Organic & Hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 One Stop Hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 Perth Hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 Reptile and Grow Store Unit 7 - 117-119 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 Southwest Hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 The Grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 Bloem PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 The Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 The Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 The Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 Water Garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017

(08) 9274 8388 (08) 9345 5321 (08) 9841 3220 (08) 9336 7368 (08) 9248 1901 (08) 9206 0188 (08) 9371 5757 (08) 9306 3028 (08) 9921 6016 (08) 9404 7155 (08) 9471 7000 (08) 9478 1211 (08) 9527 2245 (08) 9534 8544 (08) 9356 7044 (08) 9217 4400 (08) 9473 1473 (08) 9495 1495 (08) 9274 3232 (08) 9443 7993

NEW ZEALAND

Easy Grow New Lynn 3018 Gt North Rd New Lynn, Auckland Easy Grow Manukau 15/69 Wiri Station Road, Manukau, Auckland Guru Gardener 14 Molesworth St., New Plymouth Otaki Hydroponics 1083 S.H. 1 South Otaki House of Hydro 221 Waiwhetu Rd., Lower Hutt Wellington Pet and Garden 10 Fitzgerald Ave., Christchurch Grow and Brew 14a Flexman Place, Silverdale Auckland Green Day Hydroponics Cnr of Maunganui Rd & Tawa St., Mt Maunganui Switched on Gardener Number 189 (Lower) Dent Street, Whangarei Switched on Gardener Unit 159 Central Park Drive, Henderson Switched on Gardener Unit 1/60 Ti Rakau Drive, Pakuranga Switched on Gardener Number 1c Sunshine Ave, Hamilton Switched on Gardener Number 513 Heretaunga Street West, Hastings Switched on Gardener Number 62 Kaiwharawhara Road, Wellington Switched on Gardener Unit 7/67 View Road, Glenfield Switched on Gardener Number 1 Rata Street, New Lynn Switched on Gardener Number 57 Cavendish Drive, Manukau Switched on Gardener Number 427 Cameron Road, Tauranga Switched on Gardener Number 1060 Fergusson Drive, Upper Hutt Switched on Gardener Number 3 Pascoe Street, Nelson Switched on Gardener Number 9 Buckley Road, Linwood Switched on Gardener Number 143 Tuam Street, Christchurch CBD Switched on Gardener Number 313 King Edward Street, Dunedin

09 827 0883 09 263 7560 06 758 6661 06 364 2206 03 377 2507 09 426 2095 07 575 4090 (09)438 0223 (09) 837 1210 (09) 576 0296 (07) 850 8351 (06) 876 7885 (04) 472 5265 (09) 443 0106 (09) 826 4444 (09) 263 4336 (07) 579 9840 (04) 526 3913 (03) 546 4769 (03) 381 0937 (03) 374 5682 (03) 456 1980

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

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Do you KnoW? D

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Crops grown on marginally copper-deficient soils might have yield losses of 20 per cent while not exhibiting any visual symptoms of a deficiency.

Cool fresh air is required for plants to grow— they need moderate temperatures and CO2 to generate biomass.

coMInG uP In May-June

Plants for Pets Did you know you can feed your furry, finned and feathered friends hydroponic snacks? They’re high quality, safe and spray-free.

Controlling Salt Buildup

The great potato famine was largely the result of a monoculture of potatoes becoming infected with potato blight, leading to the widespread starvation of millions.

Salt buildup is a common occurrence in hydroponic solutions and soilless systems, which can be serious and even fatal for plants. Luckily there are a number of easy options to correct the problem that growers of all skill levels can implement.

Etiolation is the process of growing the plant in total darkness for a period of time.

Growers Know

You’ll be looking at a minimum of somewhere in the neighbourhood of $100 for a complete soil test.

Grandpa’s Siberian Home Peppers were developed in Siberia and bred to overwinter indoors.

Pythium can rapidly cause symptoms such as damping off on young seedlings, but older plants might be heavily infected for some time before any signs are seen.

A worm farm can cut down your waste by a minimum of 25 per cent. Over a year that translates into hundreds of pounds of waste diverted from the landfill.

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

Get to know your fellow growers from across the continent. Growers Know profiles growers to discover who they are, what they grow and how they grow. Do you know someone that should be featured? E-mail editor@maximumyield.com Advice from experts, the latest products available to Aussie growers, fascinating facts, and hydroponic news, tips and trivia.

www.maximumyield.com Maximum Yield May/June will be available in May for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across Australia and New Zealand. Subscriptions are available by contacting editor@maximumyield.com or visiting maximumyield.com/subscriptions.php

Maximum Yield | March/april 2012

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Maximum Yield Australia | November/December | March/April 2012 2010