AUS May/June 2010 by Maximum Yield

AUSTRALIA May-June 2010

I N D O O R

G A R D E N I N G

FREE

STEPS TO BIGGER YIELDS

7 th

Ann iver s Issu ary e

KEEP

IT GR

EEN!

CFL DISPOSAL AND RECYCLING ESSEN

TIALS

MOISTURE

SAFETY IN THE GROW ROOM

MATTERS Indoor gardenING expo montreal

SAN FRancisco

long beach

June 5-6

july 24-25

october 16-17

Quebec, Canada

California, USA

california, usa

indoorgardeningexpo.com

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

CONTENTS may / june 2010

7 th

FEATURES 22

Moisture Matters

Tender and Tangy Microgreens

What Can You Grow Hydroponically? Arnica Montana - Part 1

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

Ann iver s Issu ary e

by Noucetta Kehdi

Safety in the Grow Room

CFL Disposal and Recycling

Seven Steps to Bigger Yields

Environment Control

by Matt LeBannister by Michael Bloch by Erik Biksa by Trevor Holt

DEPARTMENTS 42

From the Editor

Letters to the Editor

MaximumYield.com

Ask Erik

MAX Facts

Product Spotlight

Talking Shop - Hyalite

You Tell Us - Canna

Check Your Growing IQ

Retail Directory

Coming up in July/August

Do You Know?

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

FROM THE editor

jessica raymond

Everything we do in the growroom is a reflection or interpretation of what Mother Nature works hard at everyday outdoors. In order to fully understand plant life and ary s what makes for an optimal r ive indoor environment we must Ann ssue I first understand the natural elements and how we can optimize them in the grow room. In this issue Dr. Lynette Morgan goes into detail on the importance of moisture, while Trevor Holt offers insight into controlling the environment and Erik Biksa puts it all together by sharing the seven steps to bigger yields. Also featured are safety tips for the growroom, many new products and tips and tricks on growing, ensuring a great read ahead.

June 2010 kicks off the North American Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expo Tour and we welcome you all to attend. The indoor gardening expos offer the industry’s best opportunity to network and learn to grow with advice from the world’s experts. Check out www.indoorgardenexpo.com for dates, venues, special hotel rates and more. Our Win Big....Grow Big competition has been a big hit amongst the Australian growers, and this month’s prizes offer even more great ways to Win Big and Grow Big! Check out this month’s prizes on page 46 and enter online at maximumyield.com/winbigAUS. You could be our next lucky winner! Jessica Raymond, Editor

letters to the editor

editor@maximumyield.com

Click and Share It

E-News for the Aussies

I noticed with the past several issues of Maximum Yield a funky new look to your covers and the graphics used inside the magazine. I have some great shots from my indoor gardens that would work well on the cover or in your magazine and would be interested in submitting them for publication.

I have recently signed up for your E-News. I live in Australia and want to know if you have competitions and product links for us. All links on the E-News appear to be for North America or the UK. I would like to see more Aussi links and information in the E-News, similar to the Australian version of Maximum Yield.

Fred Dunn

We encourage you to submit your high quality photographs for our first ever, reader-submitted cover contest – Behind the Lens. This contest is open to everyone until June 1, 2010. Five winning photos will be chosen and published on the covers of Maximum Yield USA, Canada, French Canada, UK and Australia. Please visit maximumyield.com for full contest rules regulations.

Where in the World? G'day Max Yield. I am very interested in many of the products featured in Maximum Yield Australia. Can you direct me to a place to purchase them or where I might find product samples in Australia? Kind regards Pedro

The items featured each issue in the Product Spotlight section are available at indoor gardening retail shops across Australia. Over 250 stores in Australia currently carry Maximum Yield and that number is growing. Locate the store nearest you simply by flipping to the back of the magazine where you will find our retail directory.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Gina Morris

Maximum Yield's E-News is international and contains information for our global readership. Our online reader contest Win Big! Grow Big!—for instance—features distinct products for Australians, in addition to North American and UK offerings.You can expect to see more Aussi content in future issues of Maximum Yield’s E-News. Sign up today by visiting http://maximumyield.com/newsletter.php

Maximum Yield in the Middle of Nowhere I enjoy reading your magazine immensely, and always look forward to receiving the next issue. I have a small agricultural business and travel to remote locations to visit customers and I frequently bring a copy of your magazine with me. Customers are always interested in reading my copy of your magazine, and ask if they can keep it. I would love to have some copies to bring them, as they don’t have access to computers to download the latest issue! Sincerely Mark Harcdorf Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

We want to hear from you! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Coming up on the Web What’s going on? The Maximum Yield 2010 Indoor Gardening Expos have an impressive line-up of the finest shows ever. 2010 kicks off with Montréal, Quebec (Canada) June 6, followed by the 7th Annual San Francisco Expo July 25 and the 1st Annual Long Beach, California Expo at the gorgeous Long Beach Convention centre, Oct. 17. Everyone is welcome to come learn, network and grow. More details and information constantly being updated at www.indoorgardenexpo.com

Latest News Keep up with industry trends by checking our latest news on the web, updated weekly. Affordable rooftop farms and green roofs, organics and hydro innovations will all be featured throughout the month.

Best New Products Jump start your indoor grow this winter with the newest products from industry leaders Canna, Nutrifield, Biobizz, Atami and more. You can find this month’s featured products at your favourite indoor gardening shop, and make sure to tell them you saw them first on maximumyield.com

G A R D E N I N G

VOLUME 8 – NUMBER 1 MAY/JUNE 2010 PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092 PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Gaby Morin - gaby@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com Daniel Peters - daniel@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com

competitions Only four weeks remain to snap that winning photo for Maximum Yield’s “Behind the Lens” photo cover contest. Send entries to editor@maximumyield.com by June 1, 2010 to have your photo seen my thousands of readers worldwide. The newest offerings in our wildly popular Win Big…Grow Big contest are in. Enter by June 15 to Win Big and Grow Big. Details for these contests and more can be found at http://maximumyield.com/contests.php

Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you.

contributors

AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Canna Dome Garden Supply Futchatec Growth Technology Holland Forge Hydrogarden Hydraspher UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS BWGS East BWGS West General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds

Noucetta Kehdi is the co-founder and administrator of General Hydroponics in Europe. Noucetta got involved in hydroponics in the early 1990s and in 1996 she moved to the southwest of France where she took care of a greenhouse educating herself on all things hydroponics.

Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007.

Trevor Holt is the owner of Sydney-

Erik Biksa holds a diploma in

Michael Bloch is the owner and

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.

agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the “Ask Erik” column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world.

I N D O O R

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

editor of GreenLivingTips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy. The site offers a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment-related news to help consumers and businesses reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact.

based Hydro Masta Pty Ltd. He has over 20 years of experience in the hydroponics industry. Their website (www.hydromasta.com.au) contains a full library of hydroponic help tips and ideas, plus their online store of over 800 quality products. Email sales@hydromasta.com.au

Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

ASK

erik

Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to editor@maximumyield.com with the words “Ask Erik” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.

Erik, What is the deal with the new LED grow lights? Do they really throw off as much light as promised? If so it would be a no brainer to change over. Does every lighting company sell them? How new are they? Why are people so sceptical? I don’t know if I should switch from my 1,000 watt metal halide, but I will if it makes sense to do so. My electric bill is sick. Thank you, Confused

Hello Confused, The most straightforward answer I can give to you at this time is that it all depends on what type of LED lights you are using. There are a lot of different LED diode types, configurations and wattages available, so there can be some striking difference between one LED lighting system and another. HID (high intensity discharge) lighting has been around for some time now, and as a result is standardized. There is not a lot of variance between different HID lighting ballast and lamp manufacturers in terms of light output and spectrum, although there are some differences, perhaps on average within five to 10 per cent. As a new technology, some vendors are reluctant to jump on board and promote LED lighting as the wave of the future. A lot of the hydroponic industry has been built on the back of LED lighting, so to speak. Regardless, LEDs are here to stay and as with all things in nature it’s critical for survival to adapt to a changing environment. In this case, the environment is the hydroponics marketplace, so what you may find is a lot of the innovators rather than the reactionaries will be involved with moving this emerging growth technology forward.

LEDs throw off a different type or quality of light versus HID lighting. One of the great things about LED lighting for crops besides the 50 to 75 per cent decrease in power consumption and cool running is the fact that the spectral output can be tailored to just about any wavelength. LEDs produce light in the bandwidths that plants use, and as a result measuring or comparing light intensity in lumens or lux is not a fair comparison. If measuring in PAR or PFD (measuring light required for photosynthesis rather than just visible light) LED lighting can be extremely intense. Some of the quad-band, high output LEDs will meet or exceed the performance of your 1,000 watt HID lighting system. Be prepared to spend a significant investment, however, you can often re-capture the higher purchase price within a couple of years with all the money saved on power consumption. Also, you will never have to replace a lamp/diode, which further offsets the higher initial purchase price of LEDs. Once LED lighting for plant growth becomes more consistent from manufacturer to manufacturer and mass production helps to lower cost of purchase, LEDs may cause an explosion in the number of people who grow at home. LEDs allow for high output gardens to be set up just about anywhere and overcome a lot of the limitations that HID lighting provides to would-be home growers. Cheers, Erik B

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia from around the world

Helpful Growing Advice Online at Exploring Echinaceaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Enigmatic Origins ____ www.nutrifield.com.au _________________ Scientists are helping to sort through the jumbled genetics of echinacea and its potential for treating infections, inflammation and other human ailments. Only a few echinacea species are currently cultivated as botanical remedies. Previous studies have put the number between four and nine species, depending on classification criteria. Fourty diverse echinacea populations, found to have a remarkable range of genetic diversity, were selected for DNA analysis. The research team also analyzed the same populations for chemical differences in root metabolites. Researchers were able to identify clear distinctions among all 40 populations. These distinctions accounted for almost 95 per cent of the metabolite variation among the populations. This work suggested that there were nine distinct species, not just four.

Growing hydroponically can be difficult with so many factors to consider. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why Nutrifield has put together some FAQs to help explain such topics as the vegetative and bloom cycles, lighting, temperature and troubleshooting. At Nutrifield we encourage knowledge, to help the customer achieve accelerated growth for their plants. This is why we are also in the process of making an easy-to-use and interactive feeding regime. Stay tuned! Please visit www.nutrifield.com.au/faq to read through the frequently asked questions.

(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)

Hydroponic Fodder Solutions _________________ A revolutionary new Australian hydroponic technology has been manufactured that creates nutrient-rich feed in just six days. This easyto-use fodder solution system holds trays loaded with grain and legume seeds in the climate controlled growing chamber. A small amount of fresh water floods and circulates throughout the trays. The seeds germinate, and in six days you have nutrient-rich green sprouts. A cattleman who runs 300 heads of dairy cow was the first taker of the system. He plans to replace his current expensive grain feed mix with the hydroponic sprouts. The systems come in various sizes producing from 60 to 6,000 pounds of feed per day. The system is zero waste as the little run-off water that exists can be used for stock water. It boasts a 100 per cent organic feed that coasts $0.05/pound and the system uses no more than $2 per day in power costs. The best part is there is no chemical fertilizer or pesticide runoff. (Source: www.tonic.com)

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Houseplants Cut Indoor Ozone ____________ Indoor air pollution has been ranked as one of the world's greatest public health risks. Ozone can be released by ordinary copy machines, laser printers, ultraviolet lights and some electrostatic air purification systems. A research team studied the effects of three common houseplants on indoor ozone levels: snake plant, spider plant and golden pothos. The researchers set up chambers in a greenhouse equipped with a charcoal filtration air supply system in which ozone concentrations could be measured and regulated. Ozone was then injected into the chambers, and the chambers were checked every five to six minutes. The data revealed that ozone depletion rates were higher in the chambers that contained plants than in the control chambers without plants, but there were no differences in effectiveness among the three plants. (Source: www.sciencedaily.com)

Germ-Free Vegetables for the Future ______ Japanese companies have found a solution to food contamination that takes hydroponics even further by producing fruits and vegetables that are as close to sterile as possible. Vegetables are cultivated in immaculate Japanese factories instead of the fields where they are subject to unpredictable weather, pests and contamination. Everything in these factories is controlled: lighting, temperature, humidity, carbon dioxide and water. The plants are not exposed to the air outside, and because there is no exposure to dirt and insects, there is no need for pesticides. Production runs 24 hours per day, 365 days per year. Some factories produce up to three million vegetables a year. The creators of these plant factories think that this could well be the future of food. (Source: www.digitaljournal.com)

Designer Plants Will Use Water More Efficiently ___________ Biologists have identified plant enzymes that may help to engineer plants to use water more efficiently. Plants take in the carbon dioxide they need for photosynthesis through microscopic breathing pores in the surface of leaves. But for each molecule of the gas gained, they lose hundreds of water molecules through these same openings. The pores can tighten to save water when CO2 is abundant, and scientists have just identified the protein sensors that control the response. Plants lose 95 per cent of the water they take in to evaporation through their pores, or stoma. Modifying crops to be more responsive to CO2 could help farmers meet demand for food as competition for water increases. Evaporation of water through the pores cools the plant. If future growing conditions are hotter and drier, as they are predicted to be in some parts of the world, then modifications to the CO2 response will need to be carefully calibrated. (Source: www.usnews.com)

Anguilla: A Hydroponic Paradise __________ On many Caribbean islands obtaining fresh produce presents huge challenges due to the scarcity of fresh water and the high cost of desalinization. In Anguilla, a nation of 56 square kilometres with a population of just 15,000, shipping produce by barge can easily take a week from the closest port and the vast majority of produce arrives frozen or processed. Howard Resh, PhD, a long- Howard Resh time pioneer in hydroponic farming, is the director of the hydroponic farm at the CuisinArt Resort, the first resort in the Caribbean to launch a large-scale hydroponic farm when he founded it in 1999. The operation provides the three restaurants at CuisinArt with 60 to 80 pounds of tomatoes, 30 pounds of peppers, 128 heads of lettuce, and varying amounts of herbs, cucumbers, and other produce daily, including distinctive zebrino tomatoes and European bibb and oak lettuce. (Source: www.howardresh.com)

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favourite indoor gardening store.

Ata Organics Box for Beginners ___________ CANNA® PK 13-14® is Holland’s Secret Weapon ________________________ Atami makes it very easy for a beginner to start his or her organic garden. The Ata Organics Box for Beginners makes a starter successful. This box is made for a one metre squared garden, and includes Flavour (one litre), Growth-C (one litre), Bloom-C (500 millilitres), Flower-C (500 millilitres), Root-C (250 millilitres) and an Ata Organics Growscheme. In addition to the Ata Organics Box, there are three other starter kits in this successful series: the Bloombastic Box Coco, the Bloombastic Box Terra and the Atami Box. Visit your local hydro shop to learn more.

Nutrifield® pH Up and Down _____________ pH Up and pH Down are tank controllers that will adjust your solution to the desired pH (the measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution). The pH scale ranges from 1.0 to 14.0. pH 7.0 is considered neutral and is based on pure water. Solutions with a pH less than 7.0 are considered acidic, while those above 7.0 are considered basic (alkaline). pH effects nutrient uptake for most plants. The optimum pH range for plants is from 5.8 to 6.5. pH up and down comes in both concentrated and ready to use (RTU) forms. Available in concentrated sizes: 250 millilitres, one litre and five litres. Available in ready-to-use: 500 millilitres, one litre and five litres. For more information about these products visit your local hydro store. 18

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

CANNA® PK 13-14® is the number one bloom stimulant scientifically developed to increase the size and weight of fruiting and flowering plants. Holland’s secret weapon is now available to be unleashed in your garden. This ultra premium Dutch fruiting and flowering stimulant is the industry leader and sets the benchmark for this popular type of additive. Testimonials from countless growers around the globe who use CANNA® PK 13-14® report larger, heavier yields of fruits and flowers with an average yield increase of 35 per cent compared to fertiliser alone. The powerful formulation awards unparalleled flower size, weight and fruit swelling. For more information on CANNA® PK 13-14® from Holland, ask for it at your nearest indoor gardening shop.

Introducing House & Garden Cocos ________ New to Australia is House & Garden’s Cocos growing medium available in 50 litre bags. Cocos combines the organic benefit of soil with the precision of inert hydroponic substrates like rockwool, enabling faster growth but retaining a tolerant root environment. House & Garden Cocos meets the strictest demands made on coco. RHP certification for horticulture is only achieved through consistent quality batch testing and ensures you are starting with the best possible medium. House & Garden Cocos is pH neutral and has a low EC. Cocos contains naturally occurring beneficial fungus and has a balanced air/water ratio to ensure good oxygen supply to the root zone throughout the growing cycle. Used in combination with House & Garden Cocos, A&B nutrient it makes growing hassle-free. House & Garden Cocos—good for you, good for the environment. Available at all good hydroponic retailers Australia wide.

New and Improved Cannazym ____________ Cannazym has a new face and a whole new outlook on life. It is still the only enzyme product on the market that targets the food source and underlying cause of root binding, old cast off and dead root material. Improvements include: • An increase in the concentration and activity of enzymes on cellulose with decreased response intervals for function. • The darker colour remains fairly stable throughout its shelf life. • A guaranteed shelf life of 24 months. Keeping Cannazym dark and close to between 9°c and 21°C will extend the storage period, especially after opening the bottle. • The new and improved Cannazym is not influenced by extreme temperatures so frost is no longer an issue. Check out your favourite hydroponics retail store for more information.

LeafCoat from Biobizz Now Available ______ LeafCoat is ready-to-use and made from natural latex that creates a protective, permeable, selfdegradable layer on the leaf. This layer lasts up to two weeks until it is degraded by light. LeafCoat is an environmentally friendly alternative for pesticides. It strengthens plants and provides them with a powerful expelling effect on harmful insects. It also prevents harmful leaf fungi. It smells good as opposed to synthetic and toxic products. It gives no irritations and can be used safely. LeafCoat has been evaluated and it’s certified organic. LeafCoat will save you money, and reduce the use of pesticides! Visit your favourite indoor gardening retail store to learn more. MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favourite indoor gardening store.

Drip Clean from House & Garden __________ House & Garden Drip Clean is an extremely useful product for all types of hydroponic systems. Drip Clean works like a magnet, attracting dirt particles with every feed, ensuring the drip watering system, feed rings and hosing remain clean and free from salt build-up. Drip Clean works great with run to waste pot culture ensuring the growing medium remains in perfect nutritional balance, reducing the need for flushing. Additionally, because Drip Clean is derived from potassium and phosphorous compounds it gives the plants a boost, improving their greenness and vitality. Drip clean is highly concentrated at a rate of one millilitre in 10 litres of water and is available in 250 millilitres, 500 millilitres and one litre. Ask for Drip Clean at your local hydroponic store.

CANNA® Terra® - Holland’s #1 Home Grow System ____________________ Growing using the Terra® system from CANNA® is very productive and profitable. CANNA® Terra® is Holland’s #1 grow system for home growers. Log on now to www.canna.com.au/my for your free 28 page report in which we tell you about some of the major errors hydroponic growers make and how to avoid them. We will start by looking at how peat—the major ingredient of CANNA® Terra® Professional—is made, the structure and the different types of peat. On top of this we will give you some valuable tips to irrigate correctly, start seedlings and increase your yield using CANNA® Terra®. For more information on the CANNA® Terra range of gardening products from Holland, visit your nearest indoor gardening store.

Introducing Kronus 1 ___________________ The Kronus 1 controls temperature and humidity in your grow area at your preferred settings. This controller is designed by the indoor gardening industry for the indoor gardening industry using the highest quality components. Kronus 1 activates an exhaust fan, A/C or dehumidifier if the temperature or humidity exceeds the preferred setting. Easy to understand and use, just plug your exhaust fan or A/C into the exhaust fan output to control your temperature, and plug your dehumidifier into the dehumidify output to keep your humidity in check. Features: • highlighted grow zones for ease of use • eight metre modular remote temperature and humidity sensor. (10 and 50 foot cables available) • 15 amps/120 volts/60 hertz • three year warranty To learn more visit your local indoor gardening store.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Ocean Mist by Nutrifield® ________________ Ocean Mist is a unique, natural blend formulated to achieve optimal plant growth. Ocean Mist may increase the thickness of the plant’s cell walls. The added advantage of Ocean Mist is you can regularly apply this formula, without the risk of an overdose. This unique mixture helps enzymes participate in cell metabolism and increases the production of carbohydrates (brix levels) to improve yields and reduce fruit rot. It is ideal for relieving plants affected by stress and provides natural chelation. Plus it’s an excellent stimulant for micro-organism activity. *Note: When adding Ocean Mist to your hydroponic system ensure you drop your EC by 0.4 to 0.6. For more information, please visit your local hydro retailer.

Nutrifield® Herbal Boost ________________ Herbal Boost is an organic growth stimulant that boosts your plants’ immune systems against insect infestation. It is sourced from the roots of an ancient Chinese tree root called Sophora. It has long been used in Chinese natural medicine and is a product of many years of research in Chinese medicine and its applications in today’s society. Detailed research has shown that the product works by stimulating a plant’s photoalexin production. Phytoalexins are antibiotics that are produced by plants that are under attack. When produced they act as toxins towards the attacking organism. Not only will Herbal Boost strengthen your plant’s immune system, it will invigorate your plants by producing strong healthy roots and green lush foliage. Herbal Boost will become inactive when used with products with high alkalinity. Available in 50 millilitres. For more information about Herbal Boost visit an indoor gardening retailer near you.

House & Garden Roots Excelurator ________ If you want the best roots you have to use Roots Excelurator from House & Garden. Roots Excelurator is a powerful and concentrated root stimulator. Roots Excelurator has the unique capacity to isolate pathogens. By forming a film around the roots it keeps harmful diseases and germs out of the root zone while still allowing full nutrient absorption. Roots Excelurator ensures explosive root growth and rids unhealthy root systems of brown roots by isolating the pathogens that attack the root zone, thus stopping them from reproducing. Roots Excelurator provides an excellent rhizosphere (root zone) in all media types and can shorten grow times enabling more turn over per year. Remember: healthy roots = healthy plants = healthy yields. Roots Excelurator is available in 250 millilitres and 500 millilitre sizes. Roots Excelurator is extremely concentrated at three millilitres per 10 litres and is available from all good hydroponic retailers. MY MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Moisture Matters by Dr. Lynette Morgan

The frequency, amount, timing and duration of nutrient application to a hydroponic substrate are some of the most commonly discussed concerns by new growers. Even those with some experience can be caught out when switching from one substrate to another without realizing that the physical properties can vary considerably between growing media. More hydroponic plants are lost through over saturation in the root zone and the risks that occur with root suffocation and opportunist pathogen attack, than end up suffering through a drought. And while commercial growers can make use of computerized moisture sensors and complex formulas to determine the rate of irrigation, smaller growers need to be in tune with the growing environment, crop water uptake and media moisture levels. 22

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Why media moisture matters Hydroponics is often seen as a foolproof way of growing plants under automatic control, so every aspect of plant growth is optimized. However, the majority of hydroponic systems still use some form of substrate or growing media to support the plant and retain a reserve of moisture and nutrients around the root zone between nutrient applications. Even many solution culture systems rely on a small amount of some substrate or material to hold the plant in position, while seeds and cuttings also need support during the propagation stages. Plants require water, nutrients and oxygen in the root zone to both survive and obtain maximum growth and yields. In a hydroponic substrate these requirements are determined by the physical and chemical properties of the media, such as the water holding capacity, cation exchange capacity, pore size distribution and porosity. The substrate has to retain water and nutrients and at the same time must have enough oxygen and remove sufficient carbon dioxide for the plant to thrive. This water retention versus aeration within a growing media is a delicate balance as overwatering reduces the amount of oxygen in the media for root respiration, leading to anaerobic conditions.

Cuttings require both moisture and high levels of aeration for callus formation; too much moisture will cause rotting of the cut stem.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Moisture Matters

Overwatering can cause problems such as fungus gnats and rapid growth of thick algae on the media surface.

the growing container, or bed, creates a barrier to downward drainage. Once Some plant species prefer a heavier and damper the medium’s pores at the container media with little tolerance for drying out. base become saturated with water, the Drainage can be a problem in some moisture moves out of the container’s hydroponic systems—–the water held drainage holes. The rate at which nutrient in the growing container is effectively moves through a hydroponic substrate a balance between the gravitational and the amount which is left behind after pull on the water, the tendency for irrigation are vital properties of a substrate water to adhere to particles by surface which are dependant on a number of tension and also the tendency for water physical properties of the media. to be retained in the fine pores of the Overwatering is a more common substrate by capillary action. ‘Container problem in hydroponic substrates that capacity’ refers to the amount of water have a high moisture holding capacity. held in a container of These include the finer “Cool growing a given depth grades of coconut conditions, high humidity after drainage fibre, peat, and low rates of growth is complete some grades of predispose heavier media and most rockwool slabs, to over irrigation.” cropping plants decomposed will perform best sawdust and vermiculite. in a substrate with a high percentage Cool growing conditions, high humidity of air filled pores when at container and low rates of growth also predispose capacity. To achieve this high rate of both heavier media to over irrigation as air filled porosity and water holding moisture is not taken up as rapidly by capacity a particular type of structure is the plants. Under slow growth and required and this is seen in many good cooler conditions, a lighter growing hydroponic substrates. media with a higher degree of aeration Although it may appear that a and more rapid drainage is often a better hydroponic substrate has better aeration choice, with more moisture retentive and drainage than field soil, this may media of greater use under warm, faster not always be the case; the bottom of growing conditions 24

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Over saturation – signs and symptoms Early signs of over saturation of a growing media may be as simple as the presence of shore flies and fungus gnats, which are attracted to the overly damp surface of a substrate. Fungus gnats are a particular problem as they can persist in hydroponic systems, which are continually over wet and where there is also organic matter such as compost.

Some crops are very intolerant of high levels of moisture and prefer a coarse and very free draining medium.

Cacti and succulents, such as these hydroponic dragon fruit, prefer course, free draining media with infrequent irrigation.

The adult gnat fly lays eggs in the wet substrate, which hatch into small larvae and can chew into the root system causing damage and creating wounds for root rot pathogens to enter. The best form of prevention of gnat problems is to keep the surface of all growing media slightly dry to prevent the gnats from laying eggs. Large amounts of algae may also grow on the surface of the media if overwatering has been occurring. In seedling trays, high levels of moisture often lead to problems with damping off caused by opportunist pathogens such as pythium and rhizoctonia who prey on young plants stressed by over saturation and lack of oxygen. Cuttings and clones may suffer from stem rot and die back as over saturation cuts out much of the oxygen required for callus and root formation. While most plants can handle a short stint of overwatering, if the saturated conditions continue, further damage is inflicted and root respiration rates begin to decline through a lack of oxygen. Reduced root respiration often displays itself in a few different ways, some of which are species

Rockwool is a substrate manufactured to have both high aeration and a moisture retentive gradient from the base to the surface of the material.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Moisture Matters

Perlite is a good choice for beginners as it is difficult to overwater, while holding some moisture between irrigations.

dependant. Some plants may, despite the high amount of moisture in the root zone, wilt during the warmest part of the day. This is a response to suffocation and hypoxic conditions in the root zone, as without a high degree of respiration the plant can’t take up sufficient water and nutrients. Longer term nutrient deficiencies may show on the waterlogged plant, including chlorosis (yellowing) or paleness in the new foliage. In more mature plants, flower and fruitlet drop is common in waterlogged crops and older leaves may also yellow and abscise. One of the more extreme symptoms of waterlogged roots is ‘epinasty’ where ethylene gas builds up within the plant causing the upper side of the leaf petiole cells to elongate whereas those on the lower side do not. The result is a severe bending downwards of the leaves in response to long term waterlogged conditions that cut out sufficient oxygenation in the root zone. Epinasty in response to saturated root zone conditions are often mistaken for wilting caused by a lack of moisture, so growers need to carefully check whether wilted plants are actually suffering from a lack of irrigation or not. Some plants such as tomatoes may also respond to over saturation of the root zone with the production of adventitious roots up on the stems. These root initials can be numerous and can even erupt as large bumps and slits which may be mistaken for a pest or disease attack. 26

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Some plant species are highly prone to problems with overwatering, while others are quite tolerant. Strawberries, for instance, have no tolerance for a saturated substrate and many strawberry crop losses have resulted from overwatering the crown leading to root. Many cacti and succulents will also rot when over irrigated and prefer a coarse and very free draining substrate such as perlite or coarse sand. Other plants—more notably those that are grown under warm conditions—have large leaves and a rapid rate of growth are better suited to highly moisture retentive media that will hold sufficient water between irrigations. “Strawberries have no tolerance for a saturated substrate and many crop losses have resulted from overwatering.” Cucumbers, tomatoes, squash and similar crops perform well in a media that has a high water holding capacity and also a good rate of air filled porosity. Nutrient application programs Nutrient application rates, frequency and timing needs to be carefully matched to the crop, stage of growth, type of hydroponic system and the water holding capacity and drainage ability of the substrate. A crop growing in coarse perlite or expanded clay would be expected to have a different irrigation program to the same crop growing in fine coconut fibre or rockwool slabs. The coarser media would be expected to have a higher frequency of smaller volumes of irrigation, while the more moisture retentive media would have less frequent irrigation of a greater volume. Determining how often to irrigate a particular substrate to avoid over saturation in the root zone can be difficult for newer growers. Experienced growers soon develop an instinct of

Warm season crops with large leaf areas are well suited to highly moisture retentive substrates.

knowing how often to water certain media and how to adjust this for growing conditions and plant size. To start out inexperienced growers may want to choose one of the more free draining substrates such as coarse grade perlite and monitor how much drainage solution occurs after each nutrient application as a guide to irrigation amounts. However, more moisture retentive substrates such as coconut fibre are more forgiving of a lack of watering and probably a better choice in systems that can’t be monitored through the day. The moisture status of coconut fibre and similar substrates can be determined by poking a finger into the top of the substrate—this should be almost dry on top, but moist underneath the surface, with some nutrient run off at each irrigation. Systems such as ebb and flow, NFT and anywhere that a small volume of media is being used to support a plant in a larger system are also prone to overwatering problems. While the nutrient solution may carry some dissolved oxygen, this is only a very small amount (six to 13 ppm on average) compared to that contained in moist air surrounding roots, so aeration is still a priority. NFT relies on a thin film (two to three millimetres deep) of nutrient solution flowing over the base of a growing channel; if the flow becomes slower and deeper, especially under warm growing conditions, problems can arise with insufficient oxygenation and root death. The requirement for both oxygen

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Moisture Matters and moisture in the root zone is a trade off that needs to be considered in any type of hydroponic system as both are essential for optimal plant functioning.

Rapid seed germination needs careful control of moisture as seeds will rot in over saturated conditions.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Moisture metres Moisture metres are not a substitute for experience when it comes to plant irrigation and management; however, they are a useful tool for some hydroponic substrates. Most moisture metres have been developed for use in field soils; however, there are some models that can be used for soilless substrates. These should always be selected as they give a more accurate result with hydroponic mediums. Moisture metres range from the relatively inexpensive type sold for home gardeners to professional sensors for larger scale greenhouse growers. The inexpensive type only gives a rough approximation of moisture levels but is useful for houseplants and small container systems. MY

Even NFT systems can become over saturated if the flow of nutrient deepens and slows.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Tender and Tangy

Microgreens Microgreens are edible greens tiny in form and derived from the seeds of different herbs, plants and vegetables. Microgreens are stemmed and bear leaves usually ranging from 2.5 to five centimetres in size. Even though microgreens are tiny in size, their flavours are quite intense, though not as strong as the mature herbs and greens. A typical microgreen contains a central stem with two completely developed cotyledons and a pair of true leaves from the main plant. The size of the microgreens and the configuration of the leaves vary according to the plant species. One of the most common misconceptions about microgreens is that they are sprouts. There are considerable differences between the two and each is produced in a different way. For example, sprouts are water grown in semi-dark conditions and are eaten as a tangled mass of stems, underdeveloped leaves and roots. Also, the flavours, textures and colours of sprouts are not quite developed as they are with microgreens. Microgreens are becoming immensely popular, common in the greenhouses and on farms, and appearing in homes and restaurants. The concept of microgreens has become very popular all over Australia. The best thing about the microgreens is that they are easy to grow, simple to prepare and delicious to taste. Microgreens are rich in nutrients. Good business opportunities exist with microgreens as they are highly marketable. Whether you are a commercial grower trying to expand, a supplier looking to supply microgreens to restaurants or a gardener hoping to grow some greens; if you have the seeds, consider the job done. Microgreens are derived from several vegetables like broccoli, green and red cabbage, red kale and beetroot. Microgreens can be grown easily at home, in a medium filled pot, and they can be grown MY year round.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

by Noucetta Kehdi, GHE

What Can You Grow

Hydroponically?

Arnica Montana Part I

As an experienced hydroponic grower, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always loved plants. Years spent travelling the globe looking for plants, studying them and growing them has fostered my interest. I am interested in food crops, but am especially intrigued by medicinal plants, rare species and high value crops. Since 1991 I have contributed to the growth of around 360 different varieties in greenhouses, 90 per cent of them grown in hydroponics. The other day I went through my photo files and found plant photos taken in greenhouses since August 1995. I realized how valuable this collection was and thought it might give me the opportunity to describe which plants can be grown hydroponically, and to which purpose, by describing some of the most interesting ones that grew, or still grow, in my greenhouses. My first choice goes to Arnica montana, as it brings together all the qualities I research in a plant. Since ancient times, arnica has been known as a highly efficient medicinal plant. It is increasing in demand by the cosmetic, homeopathic and pharmaceutical industries. It is difficult to grow in extensive agriculture and it represents, if well managed, a high-value crop. Finally, it is an endangered species. Arnica montana is a beautiful plant, with shiny yellow flowers in spring and summer, and a gorgeous flowering peak at summer solstice. It was first used in pagan times to attract strength and as protection from evil. 34

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Arnica montana flowering in hydroponics.

Arnica montana is a small hardy plant flowering between May and August, depending on its habitat. It has an incredibly strong and powerful root system that allows it to grow in the poorest soils. The whole plant is light green, covered with glandular fragrant hairs. It is easily identifiable by its longitudinal leaves and the 20 to 40 centimetre stems carry beautiful orange-yellow flowers. The whole plant has a distinctive and pleasant fragrance. Several parts of the plant are used medicinally: the dried flowers (arnica flos), the fresh flowering herbal stem (Arnica herba), the whole plant fresh (Arnica planta tota) and the dried roots (Arnica radix). Arnica is a major plant in traditional and modern European pharmacopoeia. It mainly contains sesquiterpene lactones, flavonoids, essential oils and several other components, depending on the part of the plant you use. It is mainly applied to heal traumas, bruises, oedemas, muscular sprains and articular pains. It is also used for heart complaints and to boost the immune system. It is anti-inflammatory, but beware, it is recommended for use only in a very diluted form, and as a homeopathic medicine, because it is very potent and could be toxic if ingested internally, without medical control. Arnica montana generally grows in the altitudes of Europe. Other varieties grow in European plains, in North America and in Mexico. Researched by healers, Arnica was gathered in the wild for ages. Of course, during our modern days, we gathered so much of it, and in such a disorganized and disrespectful way, MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

What Can You grow Hydroponically? Arnica Montana - Part One

“Arnica montana is known to like acidic, lime-free, well drained soils, poor in phosphate and nitrate.”

Arnica montana thrives in hydroton, a super-aerated, free draining media.

that we hardly find it anymore in nature. In some areas it has totally disappeared, and arnica gathering in the wild is now under protection by law, as an endangered species. Today scientists are looking for ways to farm Arnica montana in order to supply the growing demand, without depleting the wild. Indeed, in Europe only, we use 50 tons of dried flower heads (equivalent to 250 to 300 tons of fresh matter) per year, for an estimated $116 per 1,000 grams, and its price is rising very fast, due to its rarity. I decided to grow Arnica montana in hydroponics. My goal was to test the feasibility and therapeutic efficiency of a crop and determine if hydroponics could be a viable alternative on a commercial scale. I started with a few plants, to learn how they grow and which diet they prefer. The first results were satisfying, but there wasn’t enough to analyze the content in active principles, as I always do with the medicinal plants I grow. What was discovered is that the plants grew beautiful, vigorous and very fragrant, but I also realized that I could harvest roots on live plants without killing them, which is another precious contribution of hydroponics to this plant production process. The first tests were made with a three component nutrient that is a highly versatile and exhaustive plant food, which can be adapted to all plants, and to their different life cycles. I was able to control plant growth by providing it with the diet it needed, when it needed it. As the nutrient I used was a precisely crafted formula, I knew I could obtain a high quality crop with the best ratio of vitamins and mineral salts, free of heavy metals, and therefore, appropriate for medical treatment. Arnica montana is known to like acidic, lime-free, well drained soils, poor in phosphate and nitrate. It uses lots of silicic acid, which strengthens stems and leaves and protects it from predators. Some growers say it likes a pH between 5.8 and 7.0, others say you shouldn’t go beyond 5.0 or 5.5. I generally stay between 5.5 and 6.2. 36

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Some writers say that all fertilizers are lethal for arnica. This is not what I experienced. It was healthy and vigorous, with hardly any problems to talk about. It propagated extremely well, mainly by division. I had read that Arnica is susceptible to a few diseases and predators. Among them an oidium called Sphaerotheca fuliginea, which attacks the leaves from spring to fall (but doesn’t seem to affect the plants too much), and a pathogen called entyloma arnicalis, which wounds the leaves and delays, or sometimes stops, the plant’s development. As for the predators, the most harmful is one called Tephritis arnicae, which lays its eggs in the buds and reduces their development. Up to now we only experienced the usual mealy bugs and white flies, which we promptly treat with integrated pest management. Practitioners and patients seem to prefer wild plants to cultivated ones. They think they are more efficient, and they may be right, as several tests growing Arnica montana show a loss of therapeutic effects. So my work will be not only to grow them, but also to do it in such a way as not to lose any efficiency. Up to now, the medicinal plants I grew showed twice, sometimes three times as much active principles as the controls in soil, more vitamins and mineral salts and

Collecting roots from lives plants allows for harvest without killing the plant.

Arnica montana propagating through division as a young rootlet.

no trace of heavy metals. So, I might be able to overcome this very essential issue. In case I do, I will be able to add Arnica montana to the list of potential hydroponically grown commercial crops selected over the years. If it is not as potent and rich as it should be, I will try Arnica chamissonis. This variety is considered by the European pharmacopoeia as therapeutically equivalent to Arnica montana. Like many medicinal plants, Arnica can be dangerous. If you decided to grow it, it is important to know that this is a potent plant. It may be toxic and not only when you take it internally, but also when you handle it on a long-term basis (harvesting, shipping, processing). It is for good reason that in the old ages it was called wolf ’s bane, “Who overcomes the power of wolves,” and was used in shamanic ceremonies toMY bestow power, audacity, bravery and the gods’ protection. MY The mystifying history of Arnica Montana can be found by visiting www.maximumyield.com

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

in the

Grow Room

by Matt LeBannister

Safety is a very important aspect of our lives. From hard hats on job sites to seat belts in cars, safety is always a priority. The grow room is no different. It is filled with hidden dangers and hazards. With proper advice and know-how one can easily avoid these dangers and enjoy the wonderful experience that is indoor gardening. Let us discuss bulb safety first. Bulbs can be dangerous if not handled carefully. One must remember that H.I.D. (High Intensity Discharge) bulbs get extremely hot when turned on. In fact you can see them actually glow with heat when turned off in the dark. This requires that bulbs be left for about half an hour to cool when turned off before handling. H.I.D. bulbs can also be dangerous if they get a crack in the outer arc tube. The outer arc tube is designed to virtually contain all of the ultraviolet light produced by the bulbs. Ultraviolet light is a form of radiation and can burn skin and eyes. This is produced by the sun and is why we get sunburns and why we cannot stare into the sun. If you detect a crack in any of your H.I.D. bulbs, immediately unplug the ballast so that the light turns off. The light 38

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

is now ruined, totally unsafe and must be replaced. Most quality bulb manufacturers have a one year warranty on their bulbs. If it was more than a year old, the bulb needs to be replaced anyway because it will have dropped significantly in lumen production. Ballasts are also a source of danger if not used properly. There are high levels of current going through H.I.D. ballasts. Keep all ballasts off the grow room floor. This ensures that the risk of electric shock is minimized. It also keeps ballasts from becoming damaged. Metal core ballasts can get quite hot. They should never be close to anything that might catch fire. Ballasts should always have their covers on and should never be hung in strands. If one wire touches a hot part of the ballast the wire insulation will burn off leaving the wire exposed. This is a serious fire hazard and should never be allowed to happen. Remember that all electronic equipment, such as H.I.D. ballasts,

â&#x20AC;&#x153;While there are several potentially dangerous elements to indoor gardening, taking proper precautions can mean a safer, more productive experience.â&#x20AC;?

should only be modified or repaired by qualified professionals. Another hidden danger in the grow room is the chemical nutrients and pesticides used. Precautions must be taken when applying these potentially dangerous substances. Acids and bases that are used to adjust pH can be very corrosive to skin and eyes. Powdered nutrients can easily be inhaled. If chemicals are mixed together outside of water, reactions can occur with deadly gases being released. Pesticides are poisonous not only to the insects but to the gardener applying it. One should always wear eye protection, protective gloves and a mask when using one or more of the aforementioned products. Do not let this article scare you from enjoying your garden. It can be as risk-free as reading a book if the right precautions are taken. Simply let it to be a guide for a safer, more productive gardening experience. MY MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

CFL Disposal & Recycling

by Michael Bloch, greenlivingtips.com I've been a big fan of CFL bulbs (Compact Fluorescent Lamps) for years, first using them in the 90s when they were still around $20 a pop and were more cumbersome. Nowadays you can get them for just a couple of dollars! The cost has plummeted and they come in all sorts of wattages, shapes and sizes to fit the vast majority of standard light fittings. Incandescent bulbs not only consume excessive energy but also make a hole in your wallet in comparison. Some countries, including Australia, have also officially sounded the death-knell for incandescent bulbs, with plans to phase them out over the next few years. But a new predicament faces usâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;what to do with the bulb once it's completed its useful life. I've had several emails on this topic just over the last couple days. It's been great to see environmentally conscious people thinking past the purchase! Thankfully, CFLs last for a very long timeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;two to five years. Given their growing popularity though, that does mean in a few years from now we'll be faced with many CFLs needing to be responsibly disposed of or preferably recycled annually. 40

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Don't bin your CFLs Throwing CFLs in the bin isn't a good idea. Aside from the waste of materials, they contain a small amount of mercury; approximately three to five milligrams. It's a tiny amount, about the size of the very tip of a ballpoint pen and far less than what is present in a watch battery. Still, a hundred million of these small amounts does become significant. There has been quite a bit of panic about mercury in CFLs. I'd hazard a guess that CFL mercury levels would be far less than the additional mercury emissions involved in powering a comparable incandescent globe over the same period of a CFL's lifespan. Additionally, at the end of a CFL bulb's life, little of the mercury remains in its most toxic form. Regardless, given the fragility of the bulbs, caution is necessary and mercury shouldn't wind up in landfill at any time and at any level. Mercury is a powerful toxin that contaminates earth, air and water and accumulates in animal tissue.

How to dispose of CFLs The best way to find out how you can recycle or safely dispose of CFLs is to contact your local waste authority for advice. Contact your electricity authority; some utilities are providing their customers with CFL recycling or advisory services. Another option is to ask the retailer who supplies your bulbs if they have a recycling program. Some larger retailers have programs in place already. It's a good opportunity to put pressure on retailers who don't by letting them know you'll buy your bulbs from outlets that do provide this program. If all of the above proves fruitless hang onto the bulbs by placing them in a crush-proof container. The issue of mercury in bulbs will become more pressing and as the green revolution really starts kicking into gear, governments and manufacturers will be forced to provide proper facilities. You should not place lamps in your regular recycling collection because they can shatter while being transported or sorted and contaminate recyclable items, putting recycling center staff at risk.

What if you break a CFL? The Australian Department of Environment offers the following advice: • Open windows in the room to air out for 15 minutes before cleaning up. • Don't use a vacuum as this will spread mercury into the air. • Wear gloves when cleaning up. • Use a disposable brush to gently sweep up fragments. • Use a moist paper towel to help pick up remaining tiny fragments. • Wrap the pieces up in layers of newspaper and place in a sturdy sealable bag or container along with anything used to clean up the mess. Place the container or bag in your rubbish bin. It should be treated as hazardous chemical waste; i.e. stored safely until it can be taken to a hazardous chemical disposal facility. Given all that messing around, it just pays to be extra careful when handling a CFL bulb. If the idea of using anything containing mercury really bothers you, perhaps consider LED lighting as a mercury-free alternative. LEDs are even more energy efficient and have a longer lifespan than compact fluorescent lamps! For more information on LED lighting for indoor gardening, check out the July/August edition of Maximum Yield Australia. MY MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

by Erik Biksa

So you want to get bigger yields from your crop? Here are seven grow tips (in no particular order), that when adhered to, will help to ensure the healthiest and most vibrant crops possible in your growing environment. These growing secrets are the culmination of decades of growing experience from the author and countless other dedicated growers spanning the globe over. Follow them closely; they have worked for others and they can work for you. 42

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

29˚C

“Hot and dry One: Keep it optimal. environments cause Technologically-advanced severe stress to plants, products are accessible so temperatures to consumers making it should never go above effortless to supply bright 29°C at the tops light to plants indoors of the plants.” with HID (High Intensity Discharge) lighting. These crop lighting systems are available in various wattages for different levels of light output relative to the area needing illumination. Bigger wattage equals more light. However, it’s extremely important to consider the level of heat created by all of the lighting components. The amount of heat produced by HID lighting systems is tremendous and must be properly managed to maintain optimal temperatures in the growing environment. Hot and dry environments will really stress your plants out, causing them to produce poorly. In the majority of indoor growing situations the plants will yield better and be of higher quality when the temperature does not reach above 29°C at the tops of the plants when the lights are on. Temperatures above 32°C, in most situations, are a huge contributor to reductions in yield and overall crop quality in indoor gardens. The heat forces work at a high metabolic rate, meaning all the biological processes are accelerated. Couple this with high intensities of light, nutrients and air movement and you are working the plant at its upper limits. What tends to happen is that one factor, for example, CO2 for the leaves or oxygen for the roots, is lacking while other variables are driven at their maximum. This is like driving a high performance car at top speed while the engine is lacking oil; although everything else is working great, the car will grind to a halt and will possibly experience irreversible damage because one important component is lacking. The same goes for your crop. Do what is necessary to keep the optimal temperature, even if it means using less light intensity in the growing environment.

Two: You are what you overeat. Growers have access to some pretty amazing crop feeding technologies. We all get excited about using them, although in our quest to give our plants the best, we can sometimes “kill them with kindness.” It’s important to keep a handle on the overall feeding strengths that we apply to our crops, and also the ratios of the different types of ingredients that are found in various products. Most of the time, the dilution rates on crop product labels are recommended for stand-alone applications, as the manufacturer cannot possibly account for everything and anything else you may be applying to your crops. MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Seven Steps to Bigger Yields

Photo by: Dr. Lynnette Morgan

Over-fertilized plants produce poorly, are prone to insects and diseases and usually the taste and smell is less than desirable. Besides watching your overall feed strengths, and applying nutrients in a “feed, feed, water” regimen on soilless mediums, flushing the growing medium every couple of weeks can help keep nutrients from building-up and causing problems.

Measure Twice, Pour Once: Even when measuring organic nutrients, it’s critical to know exactly the right amount to add to reach the desired nutrient strength in the right phase of growth.

For example, the levels of base nutrients, additives, biological inoculants, etc. all contribute to the overall feeding strengths, and how the plant will react. Furthermore, the quality of the growing environment itself will affect how suitable a feeding strength for the plants will be. Growers often discuss feeding strengths in terms of PPM (parts per million), while EC (electrical conductivity) is probably the best unit of measurement, as it is universal from one region to another. PPM is not universal, as different conversion factors are used by different measuring equipment manufacturers (PPMs are actually conversions from EC, the base measurement). In most growing scenarios, it’s rare for there to be any need to feed over 2.0 EC. Follow a complete feeding program from a reputable manufacturer, as piecing together your own feeding program can be a real hit-and-miss affair. Even when following a manufacturer’s complete program, it still pays to monitor your feeding strengths using TDS/EC testers. Remember after mixing all of your nutrients into the water, you can always add more fresh water to dilute the nutrient solution to lower strengths if necessary. Know What They Are Eating: It’s always a good idea to check, and double check EC and pH levels if you are unfamiliar with the values created by your nutrient solution when mixing and for the period following.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Plant over fertilized, showing salt burn.

Three: The plant is boss. If your plants aren’t ready for the next growing phase or increased feeding strengths, you should wait. Following recommendations is always a good idea, however, to do so blindly is not. Just because a chart says after three weeks that you should “flip” the plants into flower doesn’t mean that you should. Some strains will grow very little once flowering has started, so ask yourself if they will be at the right size for a healthy harvest at maturity. Conversely, some strains and plant varieties grow leaps and bounds, upwards of 300 per cent, once flowering is initiated. With these varieties, the wise grower can be sure they are flowering early enough, so that they will not out-grow the space available in the garden. Determining the right size to flower can take a couple of trials to get right, especially if you are working with a plant variety that you are less familiar with, or perhaps a strain within a plant variety that you have not yet cultivated. Do some research, and ask around. Growers who have experience with a particular strain or variety may be willing to share some insights. Note that hydroponically-grown plants will usually develop at a faster rate than soil grown plants, although overall yields are often similar.

Four: Simplify. In an effort to make ourselves better growers, we sometimes pull the mad scientist cap on a little too far. It’s a great idea to experiment from crop to crop, however, you need to be realistic about how many variables you experiment with to really determine the cause and effect of particular inputs and practices. With nutrients, for example, if you are not following a complete program, or if you’re using a tiered grower level system, don’t add too many new products at once; especially

Photo by: Dr. Lynnette Morgan

Plants at optimal temperature.

“Although experimenting from crop to crop can be fun, growers should be realistic about how many variables to experiment with.”

if they are not on the manufacturer’s crop feed chart. To really see how a particular product performs, you need to run at least one cycle with that being the only variable changed. Same goes with the environment. If you are running experiments to find the optimal temperature for your strain in flowering, it’s not a good idea to switch from 1,000 watt lights to 600 watt lights and turn around and say that one temperature is working better than another. Set up your grow with a foolproof system, whether in terms of nutrient programs or an optimal growing environment. From there, consider changing one variable at a time per crop to really “dial-in” your growing environment accurately and precisely. Otherwise, you can only guess at any changes you see in the plants, for better or worse.

Five: Put some love into it. Most of us get into growing indoors because we have a passion for growing things, or we are especially fond of the plants that we are cultivating. If taking care of your plants is not much more than an obligatory chore for you, don’t expect too much back from your plants in return; they will feel the same way about you! Even growers who start out with a very strong passion can find themselves treating growing as a job after several years. It should never feel like a job. Perhaps it’s time to take a break from growing, or hire a reliable crop-sitter for your garden.You have to be in touch with your plants as often as possible. Plants are honest; they will ask for exactly what they want, and won’t hesitate to tell you what they don’t like. However, if you are not observing or “listening” to these signs because you are in a hurry to get in and out of the garden, you will overlook some very important “suggestions” from your plants, and your yields and crop quality will suffer. Basically, you will never be able to realize the full potential of your garden. After all, you only get out of it what you put into it, and that’s not just reserved to your gardens. MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Six: Use a high quality light reflector. If you are growing with HID (High Intensity Discharge) lighting, use a high quality, engineered lamp reflector to ensure that your garden receives the maximum number Growing with HID (High Intensity Discharge) light. of lumens, in an even and consistent spread. There is no sense in having one high-yielding plant directly under the reflector, while the surrounding plants produce poorly due to uneven light distribution. Poorly designed lamp reflectors may look good to the human eye, although their performance in re-directing light from the lamp to the garden can be extremely poor. Hot spots can be created in the garden canopy when a reflector is not redirecting light evenly, for example over an area of one to 1.2 square metres. Lesser quality reflectors may provide intense light directly beneath the lamp, although they do not do a good job of spreading the light intensity to reach the plants on the outside of the garden canopy. There are some â&#x20AC;&#x153;Plants have tremendous differences evolved in an in the ability of one environment as diverse reflector over another as the earth itself, so they to re-distribute the light have learned to make intensity evenly, in a excellent use of all of the desirable lighting footprint building blocks in nature for your garden. To ensure provided to them.â&#x20AC;? that you are making the most use of the lights you have, look for reflectors that offer a photometric chart that illustrates their performance. Use the right reflector for the right wattage lamp; sometimes mogul extensions may be required when working with lower wattage lamps, and finally, invest in a light metre; it will tell you exactly what intensities the plants are receiving, whether right under the reflector or towards the outside edges of the garden.

Seven: Add some life. Whether you garden hydroponically, organically, in soil or soilless mediums, your crop will benefit greatly from introductions of bio-active and bio-available substances rather than just providing flat-lined, synthetic NPK nutrients. Plants have evolved in an environment as diverse as the earth itself, so they have learned to make excellent use of all of the building blocks in nature provided to them. Growers who add another dimension in crop nutrition through the application of bio-active nutrients and supplements are often rewarded 46

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Photo by: Dr. Lynnette Morgan

Seven Steps to Bigger Yields

bacteria Pseudomonas bacteria

Fungi

Bacillus bacteria

Trichoderma fungi Juicy Roots, Naturally: These roots have been treated with beneficial fungal and bacterial inoculants; notice how thick they are relative to their age.

with higher yields, noticeably higher crop quality and fewer problems such as insects and diseases. Freshly brewed aerobic teas are an excellent source of nutrients and beneficial life for plants. If your system is not well suited for root applications of aerobically brewed nutrient teas, you can apply them as foliar sprays with some level of benefit. Also, there are some specialty inoculants available that are specifically formulated for hydroponics growers, and contain super strains of bacteria such as bacillus and pseudomonas as well as beneficial fungi such as trichoderma and mycorrhizae. These are available as liquid concentrates or powdered formulations, and can be added to a variety of cropping programs. Most often they are applied to the roots, and when specially formulated, will not clog-up hydroponics growing systems. They are especially well suited to soil and soilless growing medium applications. So, there you have it. Seven growing tips, that when followed and adhered to, can offer just about any grower in any growing situation a bigger yield, healthier plants and better crop quality. Sure there are many more tips and tricks that all stack up to maximum yields, however, these are a great place to start. Remember that it is never any one tweak or trick that makes your garden successful; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the culmination of all the little things you do to make your garden grow better.You will only get out of it what you put into it. MY MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

TALKING SHOP AT A GLANCE Company: Hyalite Hydroponics Owners: Jon Pano Phone: 866-WE-JOLLY (935-6559)

Locations:

Hyalite Bayswater Bayswater, Victoria Hyalite Global Sunshine North, Victoria Hyalite Westend 3 Third Ave, Sunshine VIC 3020 Hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Rd, Airport West 3042 Hyalite Villawood Unit 2/21 Birmingham Ave, Villawood NSW 2163 Hyalite Moorebank Unit 6/376 Newbridge Rd NSW 2170 Hyalite Varsity Unit 5/11 John Duncan Crt, Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 Web: www.hyalite.com.au Motto: “From small beginnings come great things.”

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

he first Hyalite Hydroponics location—opened in the late 90s in Sunshine, a suburb of Melbourne,Victoria— was a product of my boredom and fulfillment-deficiency in my work. I lacked direction in life, working many odd jobs with little enthusiasm. My passion for gardening dominated my spare time. Unfortunately, my product stash frequently suffered as the nearest hydroponics shop was a 40 minute drive away. I made trips to the store often, sometimes twice a day just to pick up a 60 cent item that I needed to complete a project. A local hydroponics shop was needed in Sunshine and it made good sense to embark on a path that would allow me to make a living doing what I enjoyed most. And so I charged forward with high hopes and a low budget.

The first couple of years were very difficult, financially and on the Gold Coast. Hyalite Hydroponics also operates a successful mentally, but word spread quickly, and customers started eBay store (http://stores.shop.ebay.com.au/Hyalite-Hydroponics) rolling in. I worked alone to begin with, although a friend We carry a variety of popular products and we keep our large helped me out occasionally. I had a collection of well-worn warehouse fully stocked so that we never run out of product. If hats all hanging in a row, including a customer needs 50 of an item, we have it. one for sales, stock purchasing, forklift A total of 17 employees staff the seven shops "I had a collection of welldriving and cleaning. I did it all. As and they are truly the best. worn hats all hanging in a with any new business, cash flow was I’ve been in business for 12 years and row, including one for sales, counting and I still learn something my biggest struggle. There were times stock purchasing, forklift in the beginning when I wondered if I new everyday. When I first started this driving and cleaning.” had made the right move in launching company I was a novice. In this fast-paced this business. Not having any sales or environment, I have had to learn quickly. business background made it hard. I started with learning the Hiring an eclectic, hardworking and knowledgeable group to basics, reading every pamphlet of information that crossed my staff the shops has made my life so much easier. I also hired a path and asking questions to anyone that would listen. I realize business advisor, whose input has made a significant and positive only the strong have staying power in business, so I keep my difference. I work hard every day and that’s one of the reasons secrets close and I never say no. why Hyalite has done so well. I also had the drive. A wise adage Since opening the first location in Sunshine, I have added six more says: there’s no harm in trying. And I am proof that with the stores across Australia: four in Melbourne, two in Sydney and one desire and the drive, anything is possible.

The eclectic and hardworking staff at Hyalite are growers too, which is why they are so enthusiastic about helping their customers’ gardens grow.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Environment Control by Trevor Holt

It is essential to know your plants’ particular needs well to obtain good results. The aspects to consider are numerous but the climate, particularly airflow, temperature, temperature, humidity and CO2 enrichment certainly influence the most the growth and the yield (harvest quantity and quality). So, what are the effects of climate on plants and which methods can be used to more efficiently control them in indoor gardening?

Airflow The importance of good air exchange and CO2 availability in an indoor growing environment cannot be overstated. Airflow and CO2 are so often overlooked and can have a dramatic effect on the overall health and performance of plants. An ideal environment requires at least 30 air changes per hour; therefore, a good extraction fan is paramount. More air movement is better not enough. To calculate the size of the fan you would need, measure the length, width and height of the space, then multiply this figure by 1,000. This will give you the cubic litre capacity of the space. Finally, divide this figure by 30 (the air changes required per hour). This will give you the required fan size. Equally as important as an extraction fan is an intake fan. If the intake hole is too small you will create a vacuum and the extraction fan will end up fighting against itself and probably (over time) burn out. The intake vent should be three times 50

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

the size of the exhaust vent unless the latter is also powered by a fan to draw the air in. A good gauge to see if your air exchange is correct is to try and close the door to the room. If it’s difficult then you need to increase the size of the intake or add a fan that pushes air in as well. Temperature Fluctuations in temperature can cause considerable problems. A temperature between 23 to 27°C is desirable. Generally it may be difficult to maintain this temperature range, however, as a general rule try to keep the space as close to this range as possible. Sudden leaps and dips in temperature should be avoided as this can cause undue stress to plants. High temperatures of 30°C and above will cause the plants to transpire. If they are unable to replace what is lost quickly enough, they can become stressed and may die. It is advisable to cut your nutrient strength by half if there is the possibility of an increase in the transpiration rate or hot weather is predicted. If temperatures fall below 15°C the uptake of vital mineral salts is impeded, creating a deficiency in the plant, usually indicated by a purpling of the stem. To counter this, a tank heater should be used as this will help keep the root zone warm.

Humidity High humidity is another cause for concern, as dramatic fluctuations in humidity can cause bolting in the plants (stretching), blistering on the leaf surface and mould problems on flowers. A humidity of 40 to 60 per cent is desirable. Fresh air intake and good air circulation is absolutely essential to healthy plant growth and is a good way of keeping the humidity in check. Coincidently, plants tend to grow best in climates approximate to human comfort. If you visit your grow space and it feels like a fridge or a furnace, it’s likely that your plants are feeling uncomfortable. If growing in a greenhouse, choose a location that faces east away from the intense heat from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, run your “lights on” period at night.

“With higher CO2 concentrations the stomates under the leaves that allow the passage of CO2 into the plant will close slightly as their workload is decreased.”

CO2 Enrichment Carbon Dioxide (CO2) is one of the essential elements required in photosynthesis. Increasing CO2 levels is the most effective and immediate way to enhance and increase plant growth rates. Research by biologists and plant physiologists throughout the world have long recognized the benefits of CO2 for plant growth. Horticulturists and greenhouse growers have used CO2 generators to enhance growth rates on plants for many years with amazing results. Carbon dioxide is an odourless gas and a minor constituent of the air we breathe. It comprises only 0.034 per cent (340 parts per million, or ppm) of the atmosphere but is vital to all life. Plants are made up of about 80 to 90 per cent carbon and water with other elements being nitrogen, calcium, magnesium, potassium, phosphorus and trace elements making up only a small percentage. Almost all of the carbon in plants comes from this minor 340 ppm of carbon dioxide in the air. By increasing the CO2 in your growing environment from between 1,000 and 1,500 ppm your plants will grow strong. With higher CO2 concentrations the MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Environment Control

stomates under the leaves that allow the passage of CO2 into the plant will close slightly as their workload is decreased. This results in less water loss and more water usage within the plant. The plant cells work more efficiently with plant growth rates increasing from 70 to 200 per cent. Simple sugars like glucose provide plants with energy and are formed into the more complex plant parts such as carbohydrates, amino acids, protein, cellulose, leaves, roots, branches and flowers. The oxygen that all plants give off comprises about 80 per cent of the earth’s atmosphere, which is used by humans, animals and marine life. The importance of CO2 and good airflow in the growing environment equates to about 75 per cent of the plant’s total food source with the other 25 per cent coming from around its root zone. It is critical to get your environment right or disaster will follow. The next question for the grower is how do you increase the CO2 levels in the greenhouse? There are three methods of increasing CO2 levels in the environment: injecting CO2 by way of bottled CO2 cylinders, which you hire from the gas company; using L.P.G gas burners, which supply heat and increase the CO2 levels in the environment; and with home made concoctions using yeast and sugar. Manual CO2 Method Any extra CO2 around the plant will help. I would suggest before attempting this that you look at getting your air exchange in your garden correct before adopting any sort of CO2 injecting methods. If the air exchange is not correct, you can stress the plant. Bottled CO2 This method injects CO2 into the growing environment with a regulator, flow metre and solenoid, which is connected to a

CO2 gas bottles come in three sizes 1. Size D contains six kilograms of carbon dioxide equivalent to 3,000 litres 2. Size E contains 15 kilograms of carbon dioxide equivalent to 7,600 litres 3. Size G contains 31 kilograms of carbon dioxide equivalent to 15,800 litres

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

“In my opinion using any of the above methods without monitoring the actual CO2 levels...is hit and miss.” timing device and periodically opens the solenoid to let the gas flow through to emitters. The emitters are placed above the plants; the CO2 then falls from the emitters onto the plants. The plants, in turn, absorb the CO2 rich gas. Injecting bottled gas can be extremely effective because of the purity; however, it can also be extremely dangerous in enclosed areas, therefore, never put the cylinder inside the growing environment. Always store the CO2 bottles outside the grow room as CO2 becomes unstable above 30°C. Below is listed the bottle sizes and calculations you will need to make, to get the full benefit of using bottled CO2 gas.Your gas consumption depends upon the volume, cycle time and lights on period. If you have a large space, a short cycle time and an 18 hour lights on period, you are going to use a lot of gas, and cylinders will not last long. The E size is the most practical size as the large G size cylinders are very heavy and the small D size cylinders do not last long in grow rooms larger than two cubic metres. To know what levels are required and how much to add to achieve 1,500 ppm you need to calculate your volume. This is done by measuring the length, width and height of the space. To calculate take the average background CO2 level of 350 ppm then your desired CO2 level you wish to achieve, for example 1,500 ppm, which is 1,500 ppm (desired) minus 350 ppm (background level) = 1,150 ppm needed to inject.You then take the cubic capacity by enrichment level = volume of CO2 required. If your flow metre is in litres, there is 1,000 litres in one cubic metre, so multiply room volume by 1,000, which will give you cubic litres. Now that you know how much CO2 to add, you need to decide how often you want to release (frequency), and how long you want to release (period). In my opinion using any of the above methods without monitoring the actual CO2 levels in the environment is hit and miss, and a CO2 infrared sensor is the only way you are going to get accurate CO2 levels consistently.

L.P.G or Natural Gas Each burner uses 0.075 kilograms per hour of gas. Twin burners will provide an atmosphere of approximately 1,500 ppm in a ventilated 15 by 15 metre area. Each burner produces 0.22 kilograms of CO2 per hour. Models are available in two, four and eight burners. The unit incorporates an electric solenoid and pilot light to turn the unit on and off automatically.Ventilation is important in conjunction with CO2 generation and heating.

FIRE IT UP Modern and well constructed gas fired CO2 generators are designed for use in grow rooms. Always use a high quality model and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure safe and troublefree operation while boosting growth rates and yields.

CO2 being heavier than air will initially be lifted with heat to the top of the growing area then fall and disperse evenly through the plants. On many models, each burner at maximum gas rate burns app. 0.075 kilograms per hour of propane. This produces 3.15 MJ (875 watts) of useful heat and 0.22 kilograms of CO2. Without allowing for factors as wind chill, excess number of air changes per hour, wind velocity and direction etc. the above would give approximately 5°C to10°C rise. In a greenhouse, enough ventilation may be achieved by heat convection through the fan outlet without it being operated. It is dangerous not to have adequate ventilation as CO2 in high levels of concentration is harmful to humans. Poor ventilation can also be detected by build up in humidity, which can be detected in several ways: moisture on the walls; a “sweet taste” to the air when drawn in over the tongue; or measured by a hygrometer. CO2 levels can be accurately measured with the use of disposable gas phials. Each growing area—whether indoors or out—will have its own unique growing environment, therefore, individual adjustment and some experimentation will be needed to find the right level MY for your garden. MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

YOU TELL US

Maximum Yield (MY): Countless growers worldwide use and respect the CANNA® brand. What is CANNA® famous for? Shaun Reid: Since 1979, our founders have searched the planet for active minerals to enhance plant health.Years of experience, indigenous inspiration and the latest high-tech research have culminated in effective formulas that guarantee everyone can achieve amazing results! Our cutting-edge nutrients and plant products are clean, simple, easy-to-use and environmentally safe. From the beginning Dutch company CANNA® has been synonymous with the highest quality nutrients and growing media available thanks to our relentless, scientific, research-driven philosophy. This is why it’s not surprising that CANNA® is the worldwide market leader in plant technologies for fast growing plants. CANNA® holds the complete

Shaun Reid, CANNA’s chief marketing officer, shares with Maximum Yield the secrets behind the CANNA® line of world-famous nutrients, growing with peat mixes and cultivating short cycle crops. production chain in its hands right from development through to research, including marketing, sales and production. CANNA® also has its own logistics department and laboratory. This is where passionate scientists unravel the secrets of nature.Years of intensive research precede the market launch of each product. MY: What is the secret behind CANNA® and where is CANNA® available? Shaun: Each CANNA® product has been lovingly created to offer you the greatest yields possible when using a

PEAT specific growing medium or method. The secret behind CANNA’s intelligent products is found in a carefully balanced and integrated blend of the finest main and trace elements for each. Today, CANNA is available throughout Europe, Australia, North America, the Middle East and Africa. We have been voted by growers around the globe as the world’s number one brand in plant technologies. MY: Where are CANNA products manufactured? Tell me about your line of products for potting mixes, hydro systems, coco and more. What ingredients do they contain that make them unique for each style of gardening?

Tom Rutten, on-site chemist for CANNA

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

Shaun: CANNA® crafts all of its products in Holland to meet the needs of a variety of plants. In this way the best results can be achieved regardless of the cultivation system or level of production. Plants require that the same nutritional elements be available regardless of the growing medium used. Cultivation systems also have a considerable influence

on the availability of these nutritional elements. For example, coco absorbs and supplies nutritional elements to the nutrient solution. It is for these and many more reasons plants need different compositions of nutrients under different growing conditions. CANNA® has developed different ranges of nutrients for each specific cultivation system. CANNA’s products are well known for high yields, purity of the raw materials, user friendliness and our unrivalled concern for the health of the grower. MY: What do the terms Vega® and Flores®—found on CANNA products—indicate? Shaun: These terms indicate in which developmental phase of the plant to use the nutrients.Vega® is for the plant’s vegetative or growing phase. During this phase, the plant develops roots, stems and foliage. A fast start, healthy root structure and powerful shoots are essential for optimum results. Flores® is for the blooming phase. During this phase, the plant’s nutritional requirements change from needing high nitrogen to a demand for more phosphorous. Flores® products will generate the highest yield possible because the specially formulated nutritional elements are specially designed for this phase. MY: Why should gardeners first research the system they would like to use before they grow? Shaun: One of the biggest mistakes growers make is to start cultivating plants before they have researched how to grow plants. They assume that growing plants in hydroponics is easy. Cultivating hydroponically—without soil—requires quality nutrients. If you do not have the

skills and information on growing plants in complex hydroponic systems, it might be best to grow using the CANNA® Terra® system. Growing in the Terra® system is easy and still gives you dynamic growth and extraordinary yields. MY: Why are not all soilless mediums suitable for cultivating short cycle crops? Shaun: Not all growing media are suitable for cultivating short cycle crops. Three important factors should be taken into consideration: structure, pre-fertilisation and pH. Good pre-fertilisation and pH are of vital importance for a successful harvest. Peat, stonewool and cocopeat are the three most important growing media for fast growing plants. The big advantage that peat has is that it is a very easy growing medium to work with. Our Terra® Professional is a peat-based mix. Peat is first and foremost a natural product. Additionally, when it is used in combination with CANNA® Terra® nutrients there are almost no residues left in the medium meaning it can be used as a soil improver in an environmentally friendly way without any problems. MY: I’ve done my research and I’m going to grow on peat. What sort of mix should I buy?

disease) but they do not offer any guarantee of a successful harvest. In fact, the RHP quality mark does not say anything about the precise structure and chemical makeup of the peat. Peat mixes can vary a lot in price. Peat mixes based on garden peat are generally cheaper than mixes based on airy white peat, and it is also true to say that the coarser grades of white peat are many times more expensive than the fine grades. MY: Where can I go to find more information on the CANNA® Terra® system? Shaun: Growing using the Terra® system from CANNA® is very productive and profitable. However, it is easy to make mistakes that cost time and money. CANNA® Terra® is Holland’s number one grow system for home growers. Log on now to www.canna.com.au/ph for your special 28 page report in which we tell you about some of the major errors hydroponic growers make and how to avoid them. We will start by looking at how peat—the major ingredient of CANNA® Terra® Professional—is made, the structure and the different types of peat. On top of this we will give you some valuable tips to irrigate correctly, start seedlings and increase your yields using CANNA® Terra®. MY

Shaun: Peat mixes that are available in the market can vary greatly in quality from one to the other. In the Netherlands the RHP foundation focuses on quality maintenance and control of peat products, soil components, peat mixes and substrates such as coco, perlite and pumice stone. Substrates and their components that have the RHP quality mark are safe mixes (few weeds and free of MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

MAX-MART

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

CHECK YOUR growing I.Q.

by Erik Biksa

1. Which of the following are effective in chelating nutrients of absorption in crops? a) EDTA b) DTPA c) EDDHA d) protienates e) fulvic acid 2. Ultra-tough question: Which amino acid is arguably the most effective chelate? 3. Which of the following are not B vitamins: a) thiamine b) hydrochloride c) cobalamin d) niacin

4. In which of the following product types is it most effective to have the smallest molecule size? a) fulvic acid b) phosphorous c) enzymes d) none of the above 5. In a soil/soilless media would it be best to: a) Flush with a large volume of water or leeching solution over a short duration during the final phase before harvest. b) Flush with smaller volumes of water or leeching solution over a longer duration during the final phase before harvest.

6. Based on your choice for the above answer, why?

ANSWERS: March/April 2010 quiz

1) b, 2) pH 5.5, 3) pH 6.5 4) Every medium requires special consideration to pH depending on it's inherent property of being inert or non-inert. Non-inert media (coir) will interact with the amount of available nutrient pH. Inert media (rockwool) does not interact at all. 5) a, 6) b, answers to this quiz will be printed in the July/August 2010 issue of Maximum Yield. MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - May/June 2010

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