Maximum Yield EU January/February 2014

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Exotic Contaminants Reservoir Checklist Seeds and Germination ... and more!

2014 INDOOR GARDENING EXPO TOUR tacoma April 5-6

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MAY 31 - JUNE 1

SAN FRAN july 26-27

BOSTON october 18-19

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CONTENTS January/February 2014

FEATURES 20

48

Learn to Garden and Change the World

By Matt Geschke

28

Growing Media Options

By Grubbycup

32

The Science Behind Light

By Eric Hopper

36

Plant Diet Basics

By Matt LeBannister

54

50 40

20

A Green Meal: Seaweed

By Luis Bartolo

42

Mycorrhizae: The Straight Story

By Dr. Robert G. Linderman

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50

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MaximumYield.com

56

You Tell Us

By Mike Nichols

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From the Editor

58

Talking Shop

Interpreting a Water Report

8

Letters to the Editor

60

Max Mart

10

Ask the Experts

63

Distributors

12

Max Facts

65

Coming Up Next Issue

16

Product Spotlight

Year-Round Blueberry Production

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By David Kessler

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DEPARTMENTS

Fungus Gnats: The Cause, The Problem and the Answer

By Chad Garbet

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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COMING UP ON THE WEB january/february 2014

10 Annual 2014 International Trade Directory Now Available th

Maximum Yield’s highly anticipated, comprehensive 10th Annual International Trade Directory has been compiled and will be available at maximumyield.com by the first week of January 2014. This one-of-a-kind, annual indoor gardening directory offers the most complete and upto-date listings of manufacturers, distributors and retail shops globally. This one is set to be the biggest issue yet as the industry keeps on growing.

Announcing our 2014 Indoor Gardening Expo Tour Dates

Get ready for our 2014 Coast to Coast Expo Tour – 4 Great Shows – 3 new Locations! The Expos kick off in Tacoma, WA – April 5 to 6, then off to Novi, MI – May 31 to June 1, followed by San Francisco, CA – July 26 to 27 and wrapping up in Boston, MA – October 18 to 19. Booth space and sponsorships are now open for all four shows, so book your space early. For more information on all show details, visit indoorgardenexpo.com

We Want Your Feedback!

Help us continue to create an informative and exciting product for the indoor gardening industry for years to come, and earn a chance to win one of three $200 cash prizes to spend at your favourite indoor garden retail store by participating in the Maximum Yield Reader Satisfaction Survey. Visit maximumyield.com to fill out the survey. Thank you for helping us keep Maximum Yield the No. 1 indoor gardening magazine in the world!

Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092 PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson editorial Editor Linda Jesson editor@maximumyield.com Assistant Editors Julie McManus - julie@maximumyield.com Jennifer McGarrigle - jenn@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES Sales Manager Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Account Executives Kelsey Hepples - kelsey@maximumyield.com Katie Montague - katie@maximumyield.com Jed Walker - jed@maximumyield.com Sarah Dale - sarah@maximumyield.com DESIGN & PRODUCTION ads@maximumyield.com Art Director Alice Joe Graphic Designers Jennifer Everts Dionne Hurd Jesslyn Gosling ACCOUNTING Tracy Greeno - accounting@maximumyield.com Katie LaFrance- ar@maximumyield.com

Now Even More Social Media Activity

Maximum Yield now has more Facebook and Twitter activity than ever before.

Look out for us on your news feeds as we’ll be asking followers from around the world for their best indoor gardening tips and tricks. Some of the things we learn might find their way into our print editions.

Free Digital Subscription

Receive Maximum Yield in your inbox every month. Simply subscribe to the digital edition of Maximum Yield by filling out the form at maximumyield.com/subscriptions

Connect with Maximum Yield maximumyield.com facebook.com/MaximumYield indoorgardenexpo.com twitter.com/max_yield

Scan It

Connect to maximumyield.com instantly from your smartphone with our Quick Response (QR) Code found on the cover of every issue of Maximum Yield.

Email editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you.

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

UK DISTRIBUTION Direct Garden Supplies Dutchpro Future Harvest Developments Europe Growth Technology Maxigrow Ltd. Nutriculture UK CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS General Hydroponics Humboldt Wholesale Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply Nickel City Wholesale Garden Supply Tradewinds AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Dome Garden Supply Futchatec Growlush Australia Growth Technology Holland Forge House N Garden

FROM THE EDITOR | Linda Jesson

Message from the

Editor

The new year is a time for resolutions, and if your resolution was to grow better crops, then this issue is for you!

January is a perfect time to learn new tricks, evaluate your results from the past year and decide how you are going to achieve better yields this year. This issue we provide a well-rounded slate of articles to get your garden off to the perfect start, from how to interpret a water report, to learning about the science behind grow lights, to plant diet basics and how to choose the best grow media to suit your needs.

We have a fabulous lineup of articles and features for 2014 to help you achieve your maximum yield, however; we appreciate and encourage your feedback and ideas on what you would like to see in future issues. Your opinion counts and we are offering a chance to win one of three $200 prizes to spend at your favourite grow shop for simply participating in the Maximum Yield Reader Satisfaction Survey. Simply go to maximumyield.com, click on the Reader Survey link at the top of the page, complete the survey and be entered to win!

Wishing everyone a Happy New Year from all of us here at Maximum Yield!

Linda Jesson

contributors Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the

Chad Garbet considers plants the

Matt Geschke has a B.S. in biology

Grubbycup has been an avid indoor

Eric Hopper has more than 10 years

David Kessler heads research and

Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.

Dr. Robert Linderman is a retired research plant pathologist and former research leader at the USDA-ARS Horticultural Crops Research Laboratory in Corvallis, Oregon. He is also a courtesy Professor Emeritus at Oregon State University.

He’s been in the industry for nearly 50 years and is currently the science guy for two companies: Plant Health, LLC and Santiam Organics, LLC.

Dr. Mike Nichols is a retired university lecturer and an honorary research associate in the College of Sciences at Massey University, New Zealand. He speaks extensively at conferences for international organizations such as the United Nations, and also writes and consults on a range of intensive horticultural topics.

president of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., a global leader in the production of hydroponic organic fertilisers and soil mixtures. He is passionate about the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life.

gardener for more than 20 years.

His articles were first published in the United Kingdom, and since then his gardening advice has been published in French, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Czech and German. He is also considered one of the world’s leading authorities on crochet hydroponics.

most fascinating things on our planet.

Trying to get information about growing plants out to the general public is his goal. He works at Word of Mouth Hydroponics Inc. in Nanaimo, British Columbia where he passes his growing knowledge to customers.

Chad wants to see jungles inside our major cities and on every corner on every street.

of experience in the hydroponic industry as both a retail store manager and owner. He continuously seeks new methods and products that could help maximise garden performance.

Eric resides in Michigan where he and his family strive for a self-sufficient and sustainable lifestyle.

from Baldwin Wallace College. He also completed an environmental geology degree from the University of Akron and received his M.S. in 2002. Matt is an adjunct professor at Kent State University.

development at Atlantis Hydroponics and writes for their popular blog. David has over two decades of experience and multiple degrees from the State University of New York. He’s also an accredited judge for the American Orchid Society and travels the world judging orchid events. Follow his blog at atlantishydroponics.wordpress.com

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Tenth and Eleventh I’m a Fan Winners Kevin Swisher from Michigan in the United States is the 10th winner of Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan Contest.

Kevin said, “I really love Maximum Yield. It’s helped me out a great deal with hydroponics and understanding things that you don’t find anywhere else. I’ve grown in soil for years, but over the last few I’ve really jumped into hydro and have had success.

Now, after finding your magazine about two years ago, I’ve taken it to another level. Keep up the great work, and I will keep reading and being proactive in horticulture.”

Kevin Swisher

Thank you for the great response, Kevin.

We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Ultra Green Hydroponics.

Sarah Herman from Massachusetts in the United States is the 11th winner of Maximum Yield’s I’m a fan contest. Sarah said, “I’ve been into landscaping and gardening both professionally and as an avid hobbyist for more than 20 years now. Maximum Yield is a superb tool for valuable information, as well as learning about new and innovative methods and products. The articles and features are useful, and can be easily understood. The info can be Sarah Herman used equally by the everyday hobby gardener, right up to serious professionals.”

Matchmaking at the Indoor Gardening Expo

Six years ago, I went to a Maximum Yield indoor gardening show in Orlando, Florida, and I saw this guy I had previously met on a business trip two years before at Simply Hydroponics and Organics. We talked all night and had a great time together. We were both instantly hooked as soon as we saw each other. I didn’t give him my number that weekend because I thought the distance was too much—he lived in Largo, Florida, and I lived four hours away in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, but that Sunday night I couldn’t stop thinking about him. He called me at work on Monday morning and I melted hearing his voice over the phone. I love you more than words can describe, Shawn Patrick Gorman! Funny the twists and turns life takes— never could I have imagined that “that guy” would later be the father of our children and the love of my life. I am very, very happy that I decided to go to that show. I have never been happier; I am blessed for having him in my life.

Paulette Gorman, via Facebook Editor’s Note: What a great story, Paulette! Thank you for sharing it with us.

Nice Research I’m a fan of Maximum Yield because it does an honest job of researching and reporting on cutting edge information.

Rob H, via webform

Thank you for the great response, Sarah.

We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Mass Hydro.

Editor’s Note: We received so many submissions for our first annual I’m a Fan Contest and they were all a pleasure to read. Stay tuned to future issues of Maximum Yield for these and other opportunities for great give-aways.

Useful Resource

I wish to express my appreciation for Maximum Yield magazine.

It is really a nice, useful and informative source for beginners as well as for professional growers. Keep up the nice work.

Dr. Paymon Roustaian, via email

Great Work

I love Maximum Yield. That’s pretty much the only thing you can say about them. Each and every person there is such a superstar!

Keep up the great work and thanks for the awesome tour of your headquarters. It’s amazing to see so many people so hard at work to bring us the magazine we all look forward to seeing.

Brandon A., via Facebook

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

Tweet It @Max_Yield came across your website. What a great #Hydroponics resource. Keep up the great work! #indoorgardening #growathome (via Hydroponic Supplies @hydroponicsgear)

SIMON ASK THESAYS EXPERTS

My tomato leaves seem to be so heavy.

They just droop down. Is this normal?

If not, what could it be?

Jason Miller There are a couple reasons this might be happening. The most likely culprit is heat. If plants are too close to light sources they will become droopy. The same can be said for plants that are too cold. The ideal temperature range for most crops is 18 to 30°C. It could also be a result of overwatering. If plant roots are starved of oxygen the leaves will begin to droop and wilt. Allow the growing medium to dry out before watering. A more serious problem could be bacterial wilt, fusarium wilt or verticillium wilt—these are fungal and bacterial diseases. The symptoms of each include wilting leaves and stems.

There are other symptoms involved such as yellowing leaves.

There is no cure for these diseases. One can only remove the Sincerely, infected plants. I hope this helps clear things up.

Matt LeBannister

I am running just LEDs for both stages of growth. Is this OK or should I take out one of my 400-w LED lights and add a 400-w hps/mh for my flowering plants?

Kolton Davis LED lighting can work great for both stages of growth, especially when using higher wattage LED fixtures (like the 400-W units you are using). LEDs produce more usable light energy for plants per watt of electricity consumed.

Because the HPS/MH is equal to the LED unit in terms of wattage, I would recommend sticking with the LEDs. I do recommend keeping the LED light fixture as close to the plant canopy Sincerely, as you can without causing stress (usually 25 to 45-cm above Eric Hopper the plants) to ensure sufficient light penetration.

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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MAX FACTS

growing tips, news and trivia

Powerful Pomegranates Pomegranates could help reverse some of the damage done by junk food, according to a group of Spanish researchers. The Catalan Institute for Cardiovascular Sciences found a supplement made from the fruit helped keep blood vessels and their linings healthy. The researchers tested the supplement on pigs, which have similar cardiovascular systems to humans, after first feeding them fatty foods. The supplement, which contains 200 mg of polyphenols called punicalagins, cancelled out many of the effects of the feed, including the hardening of the arteries, which can lead to heart attacks and strokes.

(Source: theolivepress.es)

MAXFACTS

growing tips, news and trivia

Grocery Shop on the Tube Asda is taking its click-and-collect service to tube stations across London for the first time as part of a wider charge to expand its collection service to areas not currently served by its stores and increase its presence across the capital. The supermarket is working with Transport for London to trial the service at six London Underground station car parks in the coming weeks. Commuters travelling through East Finchley, Harrow and Wealdstone, High Barnet, Highgate, Stanmore and Epping stations can use the Asda app to make same-day orders from their local collection point. The tube roll-out is part of Asda’s efforts to increase the number of click-and-collect locations from 218 to more than 1,000 in the next five years.

(Source: marketingweek.co.uk)

The Power of Seasonal Produce Autumn and winter fruit and vegetables can be a valid tool to naturally strengthen the immune system, helping fight off seasonal illnesses as well as the typical fatigue experienced in the colder months. No less varied, colourful or beneficial for the body than summer produce, autumn and winter fruit and vegetables include a wide range of products in colours from orange to brown, purple to green, and a huge variety of nutritional properties to help the body prevent and heal from seasonal illnesses and more. These properties include vitamin C, an antioxidant that helps strengthen the immune system, found especially in kiwis and citrus fruit, but also in cauliflower and broccoli; vitamins A and B; and the various mineral salts, useful if you’re feeling tired or anaemic.

(Source: fruitylife.eu) 12

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

Not Getting Enough A study has analysed intake of 17 basic micronutrients in people’s diets across eight European countries—Belgium, Denmark, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Poland, the United Kingdom and Spain. The results reveal that, although vitamin D is the most extreme case, European citizens across all age and sex ranges do not consume sufficient iron, calcium, zinc, vitamin B1 (thiamine), vitamin B2 (riboflavin), vitamin B6 and folic acid. Researchers from the International Life Sciences Institute concluded that better understanding the scope of micronutrient adequacy across Europe is a significant challenge. The experts believe that, despite the fact current European policies on nutrition focus fundamentally on tackling problems to do with excessive consumption, not much is known across the continent about the optimal intake of micronutrients.

(Source: sciencedaily.com)

Archaeologists Discover Largest, Oldest Wine Cellar Would you drink wine flavoured with mint, honey and a dash of psychotropic resins? Ancient Canaanites did more than 3,000 years ago. Archaeologists have unearthed what may be the oldest, largest ancient wine cellar in the Near East, containing 40 jars, each of which would have held 50 litres of strong, sweet wine. The cellar was discovered in the ruined palace of a sprawling Canaanite city in northern Israel, called Tel Kabri. The site dates to about 1,700 BC and isn’t far from many of Israel’s modernday wineries. Jar fragments were analysed using organic residue analysis. Archaeologists found molecular traces of tartaric and syringic acid—both key components in wine, as well as compounds suggesting ingredients popular in ancient wine-making, including honey, mint, cinnamon bark, juniper berries and resins.

(Source: sciencedaily.com)

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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MAX FACTS

growing tips, news and trivia

A Geothermal Energy Plan A stalled scheme at the Eden Project to set up the first geothermal plant in the UK to produce heat and electricity is seeking a kick-start through public and private funding. Plans for a multimillion-pound plant—a collaboration between the tourist attraction and geothermal experts EGS Energy—were approved by Cornwall Council in 2010. The design envisaged boring holes three miles into the underlying granite through which water would be pumped. The earth’s heat would raise its temperature to 240°C, producing steam that would power a turbine generating all the Eden Project›s electricity needs. However, without funding it has not been possible to complete drilling the wells, and the scheme has stalled. As a result, EGS Energy is now asking Cornwall Council to give it more time and revise the timescale that was imposed by the previous conditional approval.

(Source: thisiscornwall.co.uk)

Pledging to Pot The One Pot Pledge® is an exciting new grow-your-own campaign from leading gardening charity Garden Organic. Its aim is to get 30,000 people who have never grown anything before to give growing a go. Growing your own food can be fun, it tastes great and you don’t even need a garden—one pot on a window ledge is all you need to get started. Garden Organic is the UK’s leading organic growing charity and that can help by providing useful information to get you growing, with handy tips along the way. If you already grow your own, your help is still needed to inspire non-growers to make the One Pot Pledge. Joining the campaign as a Gardening Guru is possible, where one uses their skills to help teach others to grow.

(Source: onepotpledge.org)

TomTech Has the Control The UK’s only manufacturer of computerised control systems for greenhouses is based in Sutton St. Edmund. Tom Tech UK Ltd. designs, makes and installs specialist computers that control everything to do with the greenhouse climate. Managing director Alan Thompson says the company has about 800 systems installed in the UK, many in nurseries in south Lincolnshire. The flagship product, the Tom Tech T200, is a new concept in horticultural control, the touchscreen computer capable of doing different things at different times of day. “What you want to be able to do is put as little heat as possible into the greenhouse, but produce the best quality crop, so it’s about varying the target temperature according to what the weather is doing, and we do a similar thing with ventilation, humidity and sometimes CO2 concentration,” explains Alan.

(Source: spaldingtoday.co.uk)

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

Onion Industry OK The British onion industry has survived another potentially catastrophic weather challenge.

Now a distant memory, the unheralded cold spring left British onion growers fearing the worst as the longest day of the year approached. Crops were several weeks behind normal development as they approached the crucial tipping point of changing light stimulus. Thankfully, Mother Nature preformed its normal balancing act by delivering an exceptional July that tipped the scales back towards a more normal crop performance. With hopes improving, growers remained concerned that the late start would push harvest into a more autumnal and condensed harvest period in October. But the weather obliged to give onion growers an unusually dry three-week window to complete the industry’s escape act.

(Source: freshplaza.com)

Potent Carrots Here’s another incentive for guys to eat their fill of colourful fruits and veggies. Researchers at Harvard University’s School of Public Health found that orange and yellow produce can increase the quantity and quality of sperm. Carrots in particular were singled out for their sperm-boosting properties. These orange veggies, along with lettuce and spinach, are high in beta-carotene. Researchers found that this antioxidant improves sperm motility, or its ability to swim toward an egg, by 6.5 to 8%. Lutein, a carotenoid or antioxidant also found in spinach and lettuce, had a similar effect on sperm motility. Researchers also found that participants with diets rich in lycopene, the chemical that gives tomatoes their red colour, had lower levels of abnormally shaped sperm.

(Source: nydailynews.com)

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S

HOTTEST ITEMS Ask for them at your local indoor gardening store.

FlavorFul by Humboldt Nutrients

FlavorFul by Humboldt Nutrients is a strong solution of 8% refined humic acid concentrate, a little known and highly useful additive. FlavorFul is comprised of long chains of organic carboxyl and polyhydroxide acids. This complex molecule gives it a large capacity to hold and exchange nutritive cations and anions.

This beneficial exchange of ions enhances cell wall permeability throughout the root and leaf systems and increases negatively charged colloidal particles capable of holding and exchanging cations. Electrolytes are the key to healthy ion exchanges in plants and animals. Just as an athlete’s performance on the field is boosted by electrolyte intake, plants thirst for electrolytes to optimise health and to maintain sustained vigorous growth. For more information, visit an indoor retail store.

The Enhancer by TNB Naturals

SuperCloset’s LED SuperFlower 3.0 Hydroponic Grow Box

Quickly becoming one of the most talked about products to hit the market, this highly-effective, user-activated CO2 canister delivers a high rate of CO2, comparable to a costly CO2 system.

The Enhancer’s unique features include its ability to slow the release of CO2 during the night cycle, improving overall plant health and final yield. Store owners love its threeyear shelf-life and growers are amazed at how the Enhancer generates one of the highest ppms in the all-natural category of CO2 products. The Enhancer’s ease of use—simply add water and shake—and the fact that it emits no heat makes it a top choice for knowledgeable growers. For more information, visit your local garden store.

The LED SuperFlower 3.0 grow box uses a proprietary spectrum facilitated by 3-W LEDs to flower large yields in tight spaces. In addition, the LED SuperFlower 3.0 grow box uses a proprietary 8-bandwidth spectrum that runs on 700 mA. Heat is dissipated efficiently amongst the 2-cm aluminum circuit boards that are the backbone of the Super LED lighting systems.

The LED SuperFlower 3.0 is a dedicated flowering grow box and is a 600-W equivalent and uses about half the electricity as a 600-W HID light while producing similar luminous efficiency. For more information, visit a local retailer.

LightRail 4.0 AdjustaDrive from Gualala Robotics The all-new LightRail 4.0 AdjustaDrive is the newest linear light mover available from Gualala Robotics Inc. With both a 0- to 60-second adjustable time delay for promoting even growth from end to end, and a 0.61-m to 1.22-m per minute adjustable speed control that covers a wide range of lamp intensities and travel distances, the LightRail 4 AdjustaDrive is a powerful and effective light mover control. The basic science of LightRail is that, by moving the light, growers can get light into the mid and lower leaves, increasing photosynthesis. A moveable light also eliminates hot spots, allowing growers to run lights closer to plants—a much more efficient use of wattages. Compatible with all LightRail 3.0 and 3.5 rails and accessory items, the LightRail 4 AdjustaDrive comes complete with a drive motor, an easy-to-assemble 2-m rail, mounting hardware, instructions and a twoyear manufacturer warranty. Check out an indoor gardening retail store for more information.

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

Flo-n-Gro’s Drip-n-Gro Flo-n-Gro brings you the new Drip-n-Gro dual top feed drip system.

This innovative bucket system comes ready to use with all the critical components pre-fabricated to allow for easy set-up and to get you gardening fast. Packaged in a food-grade, 208-L reservoir, the Drip-n-Gro includes six 15-L Gro sites with 360º mesh inserts to promote lateral root growth, top-off float valve, control module with exclusive feed manifold and all the required irrigation tubing. All you have to do is add your favourite grow media, nutrients and plants. You can expand your Drip-n-Gro system to up to 60 Gro sites using the Drip-n-Gro Expansion Kits available separately.

Designed for quick set-up, the Drip-nGro assembles in less than an hour.

For more information, check out a local indoor gardening retailer.

Xtreme Gardening Tea Brews Xtreme Tea Brews are a blend of the highest-quality organic matter teaming with active soil microbes, such as bacteria and symbiotic fungi. The treasure trove of beneficial organisms in Tea Brews—brought to life through a simple brewing process—are poured around the base of your plant, where they begin rapidly breaking down nutrients into forms that plants can access. With more nutrients and minerals available, your plants reach new peak rates of growth. The living microbes help shield plants from disease and stress, while naturally increasing their production of hormones, enzymes and secondary metabolites, such as terpenes, flavonoids, antioxidants and essential oils. Tea Brews enhance plant vigour from start to finish, ensuring the quality harvest you’ve been looking for. Tea Brews are a beneficial additive and may be used with any nutrient line.

For more information, visit an indoor gardening retail store.

Green Pad CO2 Grand Daddy Pad

The Green Pad CO2 Generator’s Grand Daddy Pad (GDP Green Pad), provides four times the CO2 generating power as the original Green Pad. Each GDP can reach over 1,000 ppm levels in an indoor garden area of over 24 m3 for up to two weeks. Natural chemicals react to humidity or moisture to enrich your garden or propagation dome with beneficial carbon dioxide. If kept dry in the original packaging, they will still be effective in over a year. Tank users: keep a pack on hand for when your tanks run dry or to supplement your existing CO2 system to make those tanks last even longer.

For more information or to order innovative Green Pad CO2 products, visit your nearest indoor gardening shop.

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

SuperCloset’s Improved SuperFlow-20 and SuperFlow-32 SuperCloset has improved the SuperFlow-20 and the SuperFlow-32 to supplement its product line of SuperPonics hydroponic systems. The SuperFlow-20 is a 20-plant system spread across 1.2-m trays and the SuperFlow-32 is a 32-plant system spread across 1.8-m trays. Both systems combine ebb and flow and aeroponic hydro methodologies in one system. A central control reservoir feeds the ebb and flow system that spans the four-tray arrangement. The aeroponic hydrosystem is a simple air stone configuration that will not clog. The SuperFlow is compatible with organic nutrients and promotes rapid root growth because of the custom-moulded, thick-gauge, HDPE-food-grade, UV-resistant reflective reservoir and trays.

The SuperFlow is easy to operate, clean, fill and drain due to its customised valve and tube array. For more information on these improvements, stop by an indoor gardening shop.

Hum-Bolt by Humboldt Nutrients Hum-Bolt is an 8% liquid humic acid concentrate derived from premium leonardite. Humic acid promotes high ion exchange capabilities, stimulates plant enzymes and beneficial microbial activity by providing the microbes with a carbon source for food, thus encouraging their growth.

Hum-Bolt increases root vitality, nutrient uptake and increases fertiliser retention. Humic is a compliment to fertiliser, and is especially beneficial in freeing up nutrients in the soil so they are made available to the plant as needed. Humic acid is also known to be among the most biochemically active materials found in soil. Used in conjunction with our nutrient feeding schedules, Hum-Bolt will increase the health of your plants and your success as a gardener. For more information, visit an indoor retail store.

Adjust-A-Wings Double Ended Large Reflector Sunlight Supply is pleased to announce the arrival of the Adjust-A-Wings Double Ended Large Reflector. This reflector was made specifically for double-ended 1,000-W HPS horticulture lamps (not included).

Full spectrum DE Lamps used in the fixture focus on the red component for increased photosynthetic response. They offer improved PAR values and increased PAR/lumen maintenance (up to 90% PAR at 10,000 hours of operation). Unmatched in output, uniformity and performance, you can’t afford not to have this reflector in your growroom. This great new reflector features all the great Adjust-A-Wing attributes gardeners have grown to love. Your plants will thank you! Visit a local retailer for more information.

Xtreme Gardening’s CalCarb Foliar Booster CalCarb is the key to dense fruit and flower development. CalCarb is a unique form of calcium carbonate plants are able to absorb through foliage and quickly convert into calcium and carbon dioxide. Calcium is critical to plant health, contributing to the strength of cell membranes and regulation of nutrient use. CO2 is basically jet fuel for photosynthesis, allowing for higher growth rates and heavier yields. Unlike other sources of CO2, CalCarb does not require machinery or regulators, just simply spray the underside of plant leaves once a week and watch your plants take off. CalCarb works from inside the cell wall of leaves, meaning it does not require a sealed room. It can be used both indoors and outdoors. CalCarb helps shield plants from powdery mildew by raising the pH on foliage and can be used with any nutrient line. Visit a local retailer for more information.

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

The Green Pad The Green Pad may be one of the most inexpensive and innovative ways to get the good gas to your plants. The Green Pad was designed to produce enough CO2 in indoor gardens without the upfront expense of CO2 equipment. Green Pads hang inside tents or closets and absorb the room’s humidity (35 to 50+ %) to power its reaction, releasing carbon dioxide. To maintain higher PPMs use one to two Green Pads per 250 to 400 cubic feet of space. The Green Pad is a backup when tanks are running empty. Don’t allow your customers to get caught without CO2 in their gardens.

Visit an indoor gardening specialty store for more information.

Royal Flush by Humboldt Nutrients Royal Flush by Humboldt Nutrients is a premium flushing solution that helps drop unwanted salt buildup. Royal Flush will correct issues with over-fertilising, thereby balancing grow medium. Royal Flush can be used by indoor and outdoor home gardeners for all varieties of plants, including flowers, vegetables, herbs, trees, berries, shrubs, ornamentals, annuals and perennials. Royal Flush supercharges the flushing process, binding together undesirable salts and heavy minerals. Royal Flush then strips these larger particles out of your plant, leaving behind the sugars, strong flavours and aromas. Try Royal Flush today and experience the difference between a flush and a Royal Flush with a clean finish. For more information, visit an indoor retail store.

Gorilla Grow Tent’s 3.66-m by 3.66-m Indoor Growroom The Gorilla Grow Tent line has expanded to include a 3.66-m by 3.66-m indoor growroom. Gorilla Grow Tents are known as the tallest, strongest and thickest, most durable grow tents and accessories available.

Engineered with a patent-pending adjustable extension system, Gorilla Grow Tents enable the indoor home gardener to increase the height and size of their grow tents up to 1-m higher than the standard height. All standard features, including double reinforced structural poles for no-stress accessory and component suspension, 25-cm port holes that zip up on both ends and tool pouches are found on all Gorilla Grow Tents. Ask a local indoor gardening retailer for more information.

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Learn to Garden and Change the World

Growing Systems for Beginners

by Matt Geschke

Hydro is the way of the future—when are YOU going to get started?

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change the world By now it is unlikely that you have not seen images in the mainstream media referencing food security issues in some parts of the world. Gruesome images beamed from afar have indicated how bad the food shortages can be. It’s so horrifying that it almost induces a sort of helplessness—but there are solutions and they start close to home.

Simply put, it’s time for a new agricultural revolution. Indoor growing is the way of the future. Successful indoor gardener can easily produce seven to 10 times more food than a traditionally farmed plot of the same size outdoors and hydroponic crops are not susceptible to the kinds of disasters that so often befall traditional farmers. Indoor gardening might be our only viable option for the future and when done correctly requires little pesticide or herbicide use, can be practiced organically and inexpensively and can provide you, your family and possibly even your neighbours with a nutrientdense variety of fresh and healthy food all year-round.

This may sound like a utopian solution to a real and serious problem and as a result of our First World cynicism we might instinctively assume there must some sort of catch.

Well, there is. Hydroponic gardening is not easy and it does require a fundamental knowledge of the plants you intend to cultivate and a basic knowledge of the various growing systems and how they function. Finally, it is important to be realistic and fully understand both the financial costs and the time commitment it takes to have a successful indoor garden. So, where do we start?

Hydroponic gardening is not easy

and it does require a fundamental knowledge of the plants you intend to cultivate.”

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change the world

Whether you call them mini-systems, beginner gardens or starter kits, basic hydroponic systems are good ways to figure out whether hydroponic gardening is a viable option before investing your life savings on a bunch of gadgets promising astonishing results. By starting with a basic set-up, a novice hydroponic gardener will be able to learn the fundamentals of water culture, what effects pH and reservoir temperature have on nutrient solution efficacy, how environmental variables like humidity and temperature can accelerate or slow growth and how supplemental lighting can increase overall yield and quality.

The best beginner systems in my opinion are those that are simply designed and easily expandable, either through DIY modifications or through the purchase of professionally manufactured modules. This approach ensures that the new gardener will not be overwhelmed by the complexity of the system while allaying any concerns they may have regarding growing out of the system they just purchased.

Basic systems come in a myriad of designs, suitable for cultivating a wide variety of crops. You should buy the best system that you can afford and sacrifice size for quality every time because indoor gardening is a hobby that by nature is hard on equipment. Shoddy equipment fails and if you have already exhausted your shoestring budget on going as big as possible, you’ll be in trouble if something goes wrong. Be patient and start small—modest operations using high-quality equipment will ensure better results than larger, poorly constructed spaces, with none of the headaches and disappointment. Smaller spaces are easier to maintain and clean and smaller plant numbers generally result in a healthier garden and the opportunity to spend more time with each plant.

The best

beginner systems in my opinion are those that are simply designed and easily expandable.”

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Be knowledgeable and well read. Try to know something about indoor growing before you get to the grow shop and you’re much more likely to come home with what you need. You’ll save yourself and the hydro employee trying to assist you a lot of time.

Another tip is simpler is better. To clarify, I mean that the best solution is generally the one with the fewest complications. In fact, I recommend six plants or less to start, which will allow you to really get to know each plant you are growing. This level of interaction with your garden is essential in the beginning.

You might be in a hurry to get started now that you’ve decided to give indoor gardening a go, but don’t rush it. You can be successful with nearly any type of system as long as you understand the fundamentals of hydroponics. Transitioning slowly into an indoor garden has several advantages over simply jumping in with both feet. By transitioning slowly from traditional soil agriculture to an intermediate system—like a top-drip, perlitebased garden or a coir-based flood and drain operation—your likelihood of success will be significantly greater.

Eventually you’ll have done some reading and cleared a space in your home and you’ll be ready to think about which system to get started with. It is important for new gardeners to become informed on the variety of systems available to determine which best matches their growing style. Here’s some information on a few of the systems available, along with some pros and cons for you to consider about each one.

Top drip

Top drip systems are great transition gardens and should be strongly considered as a choice for any gardener on a budget, or anyone just getting started. All you need is a handful of 19-L buckets, about 110 L of the medium of your choice, 9 to 12 m of 1.3-cm irrigation line, 10 or so emitter stakes, 8 m of 0.3-cm spaghetti line, a water reservoir, a fountain pump, a timer, a drill and a free afternoon. There are countless permutations of this system and most allow for a wide variety of different media options, including perlite, hydroton, coir, soilless mix, hygromite and stonewool. These systems are readily available as kits from a variety of suppliers, but can also be easily constructed from materials obtained from your local hardware store. The benefits are that they are inexpensive to construct, simple in design and can be used to grow nearly any kind of crop. Unfortunately, top drip systems are often cited as being damaging to the surrounding environment as the runoff is rarely treated before it flows back into the ecosystem, sometimes leading to eutrophic conditions and a disruption of native flora and fauna. One could also argue that other than the automation of the watering there are actually limited benefits over traditional soil gardening. Top drip systems are also exceptionally inefficient with regards to nutrient conservation—it is not uncommon for a drain-to-waste garden to consume 30 to 50% more nutrients than a similar sized recirculating garden and as much as 70% more than a properly functioning, recirculating deep water culture system.

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change the world

Deep Water Culture

Deep water culture, or DWC, systems are another good choice for beginners or those on a budget and can range from simple all-inclusive one-tote, one-site designs to elaborate, hyper-oxygenated recirculating systems. All you really need to build a deep water culture system is a few inexpensive components and the medium of your choice. Try to keep the reservoir consistently in the 22 to 23°C range for optimal results, as increases in temperature will result in dramatic decreases in dissolved oxygen levels, and low dissolved oxygen levels and warm water will create the perfect environment for pathogenic anaerobic bacteria to proliferate, putting your plants at increased risk for root-borne diseases.

The benefits of this system are that it can be built to be as simple or as elaborate as you wish and can be tailored to fit any space. It is capable of growing nearly any crop from greens to gourds and is incredibly stingy with nutrients, using up to 70% less than a similar sized top drip system. Finally, when dialed in, these systems consistently produce huge harvests and often do so on a shortened cycle. The drawbacks to DWC gardens are few, but the systems are heavy so they tend to perform well on sealed concrete slab floors, which are structurally solid and inherently cool. The other major problem DWC gardeners face is leaks. Left unchecked they can be devastating, with catastrophic failures emptying a system in seconds. Does your homeowner’s insurance cover hydroponically induced flooding?

these systems

consistently produce huge harvests and often do so on a shortened cycle.”

Flood and Drain

Flood and drain systems have been around a long time. Ever since the first river flooded onto the first flood plain, natural flood and drain systems have been growing plants and doing it well. High-quality flood and drain bucket systems are available from a variety of reputable suppliers and flood table reservoir combinations can be found in any self-respecting hydro shop. These systems address the wasteful nature of top drip systems and are capable of saving up to 50% by only flooding when necessary and returning the nutrient solution to the reservoir between cycles. In addition, they offer the same mediabuffering effects seen with top drip systems. The cons of flood and drain operations can be summarised in two words: timers and floats.

Flood and drain bucket systems rely on timers and float valves to execute the tasks of flooding and draining throughout the day, but as the mechanical parts involved are pretty reliable, these systems are capable of turning out incredible results cycle after cycle.

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SUMMING IT ALL UP

In the end, it is less about the system and more about the individual. It is important to pick a system you are comfortable with. Your choice should fit comfortably within your budget (or slightly less), allowing for some modifications or upgrades along the way if necessary. Make certain the system you choose can grow the crops you intend to grow. I know it sounds stupid, but you would be amazed at how many new gardeners are surprised at the extreme difficulty they seem to be having growing sunflowers to maturity in their indoor gardens. Remember, whatever system you choose and whatever you choose to grow, you are actively participating in a movement that may just change the world.

it is easy to see why these new designs may just be the answer for beginners and budget gardeners alike.”

Hybrid Systems

Relatively new to the market, hybrid systems combine two or more systems into one design, allowing for supreme versatility and efficiency. Since these systems are relatively new, long-term efficacy data is not yet available. Most products claim they are optimised for all stages of growth as some plants have been documented to respond more favourably to one irrigation method or another, depending on the stage of the plant’s development. Although they are new and relatively unproven, it is easy to see why these new designs may just be the answer for beginners and budget gardeners alike. Many of these designs could be recreated by the gardener, but it would require a fair degree of skill and is not recommended for the novice.

However, if you are a budget gardener and you play engineer in your tool shed, this may be right up your alley!

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Growing

MEDIA options

by Grubbycup

Grubbycup takes us on a media tour of the hydroponic kind.

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Healthy plants depend on their root systems to draw moisture and nutrients up to the rest of the plant. The roots also anchor the stem in place and form a foundation to hold the plant upright. The material surrounding the roots is called the growing medium. The two most common types of growing media used for containers are potting soils and hydroponic media, but there are plenty of alternatives, as you can see from the list below.

Potting Soil

Peat Moss

Peat moss is the decayed remains of sphagnum moss, a stable material harvested from bogs. While peat moss is naturally occurring, over-harvesting has damaged or destroyed bogs in many areas—coir is a more sustainable alternative.

Perlite

Perlite is made from puffed volcanic glass and is often added to potting soils to improve physical structure and aeration.

Basic potting soils are usually made as a mix of materials.

Common ingredients include actively decomposing plant material, stable plant material and mineral materials.

Compost

Decomposing plant matter will degrade into compost, which in turn can be used to grow more plants. A naturally occurring, renewable resource, it requires little processing. As long as this decomposition is taking place (it will continue even after the compost is mature and ready for use), the material is compost. Compost has a dark, earthy smell and contains nutrients that are readily available for plants.

Perlite

Humus

Eventually compost will completely decompose and settle into its stable form, which is known as humus.

Humus is so stable that it can remain unchanged for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. However, since decomposition is complete, humus contains little nutrient value, although it still provides for less compact soil density and general soil improvement.

Decomposing

plant matter will degrade into compost, which in turn can be used to grow more plants.”

compost

Sand

Sand is often added to media to allow better drainage and provide structure. It also helps give weight to the mix and adds some density.

Pre-Mixed and Homemade

Commercial mixes often fortify their products with beneficial ingredients like nutrients and other additives, which can save all the time and labour involved for the grower in assembling ingredients and compiling additives to include. A basic homemade potting soil can be made from a mix of two parts homemade compost, one part coir or humus and a half-part sand or clean dirt. There is a wide variety of homemade potting mix recipes available ranging from the simple to the complex, and each gardener tends to have their own version.

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growing media options

Hydroponic Media

The term hydroponics refers to using a growing medium other than soil, which can offer a habitat for soil-laying insects. Just as there are different kinds of garden soils, there are several different hydroponic growing media available, each with its own set of characteristics. In general, the primary function of hydroponic media is to supply a structure for the root system. The medium itself has little to no nutritional value of its own, but can help keep air, nutrients and moisture available to the plants. Your ideal medium will depend on both your chosen hydroponic method and environmental conditions. Fastdrying media can be helpful in preventing overwatering in humid conditions, while slowdrying media can help mitigate the problems associated with low-humidity environments. There is no single best medium for all applications.

Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate (LECA)

LECA is clay that has been heated to expand and solidify.

It is extremely airy and well suited for systems that have overwatering issues. LECA may be available either as irregular chunks or rolled into balls. It does not compact with use and allows for open space when used in a container. It is often used to fill netting in deep water culture or nutrient film systems, but it is not well suited for sprouting and may float if flooded.

LECA is reusable after washing (with a diluted sterilising solution) and rinsing.

Your ideal

medium will depend on both your chosen hydroponic method and environmental conditions.�

Coco Fibre (Coir)

Coco fibre is made from coconut husks and is a renewable byproduct of coconut processing. The natural fibres have a high cellulose content and are often woven to create mats or used as upholstery stuffing. Coir is often sold in compressed blocks that are expanded before use. It is sometimes necessary to add additional calcium to nutrient solutions when using coir, as it can absorb available calcium applied in average amounts. Using coir is more like growing in soil than most other hydro media and may be a good choice for a confident soil gardener trying their hand at hydroponics for the first time.

Diatomite (Diatomaceous Earth or DE)

Freshwater diatomite is primarily silicon oxide from the fossilised remains of diatoms (unicellular plants). A porous, chalky, mined sedimentary rock that absorbs moisture well, it is often used to assist in insect control, as a cat litter or to clean up oil spills. While commonly known as a non-chemical insecticide, it may also be used as a growing medium.

Diatomite is light and has a low density, which means that it is not suitable for flooding systems as it may float when dry.

Most of the diatomite used in a container can be recovered and reused after harvest.

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LECA None

There are hydroponic systems that use little to no media to hold the root structure. With a deep water culture system, for instance, the roots are allowed to dangle into an aerated nutrient solution, while in an aeroponic garden the nutrient solution is sprayed onto the roots. Neither arrangement requires much in the way of media: the roots dangle below the plant with little or no support.

Perlite

Perlite is natural volcanic glass with moisture locked inside.

When heated at high temperatures the glass becomes molten and the internal moisture vaporises into steam, expanding the glass. Dry perlite can be a dust hazard, so care should be taken to wet and rinse new product. Perlite is extremely airy and difficult to over-water, but as a tradeoff it does not retain water as well as some other options. It will wick nutrient solution, though, which makes it a good choice for passive systems. Since dry perlite will float until it becomes saturated, it is not well suited for ebb and flow systems. Most perlite is sold in bags containing small pieces, which retain moisture longer than larger pieces. One benefit to using perlite is that as long as the harvested plants were healthy, it can be rinsed and reused. As an alternative to perlite, there are similar products made from recycled glass and a foaming additive.

PET1

PET1 is a common plastic used to make a huge variety of products, including soda bottles and polar fleece. This pH-neutral plastic can also be spun into a fibre for use as a sterile hydroponic medium and as it tends to be dry, it works well in situations where it will be watered often, such as an ebb and flow system. While the medium itself does not break down much over time, it is not very reusable as the roots will permeate the material and embed themselves throughout.

“A basic homemade potting soil can be made from a mix of two parts homemade compost, one part coir or humus and a half part sand or clean dirt.”

Rockwool

Thermosetting and Thermoplastic Foams

Polystyrenes and other polymers can be formed into materials similar to florist’s foam. These foams tend to be light and airy when dry and can hold several times their weight in water when saturated.

Rockwool

Vermiculite

Vermiculite is heated at high temperatures and the moisture it contains expands to puff it up, much like popcorn.

Dry vermiculite is dusty and may be an irritant, so precautions should be taken to limit exposure.

Vermiculite, which compacts and breaks down over repeated use, is airy and more commonly used in conjunction with other media rather than by itself.

rockwool has been around since the late 19th century.”

Rockwool is melted basalt spun like fibreglass or cotton candy. One of the most popular hydroponic medium choices, rockwool has been around since the late 19th century. It can be an irritant when dry and can cause small itchy cuts in the skin (similar to fibreglass). Depending on the manufacturer, it may be slightly basic (high pH) when new, so it might have to be rinsed with a light acid such as lemon juice before use. It is less prone to overwatering than coir, but more so than perlite or LECA. It retains water well but it is not very reusable.

As you can see, there are many choices of media to select from, each with their own ideal set of application parameters.

Depending on what type of garden you have, some will be better suited than others. Match your medium to your garden and to your needs and both you and your plants will enjoy the benefits.

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THE

SCIENCE Behind Light

by Eric Hopper

E v e r y g a r d e n i s d i f f e r e n t, b u t t h e l a w s o f p h y s i c s a p p ly e q u a lly t o t h e m a ll .

The horticultural lighting industry is in a state of constant evolution involving pure science, technology and plant physiology as indoor growers strive to recreate the sun within their indoor gardens. Many factors are at play when choosing the proper lighting system—energy consumption, physical space and budget constraints will all influence your final decision.

Because indoor gardens are nearly as diverse as their operators, it isn’t feasible to deal with every possible scenario for horticultural lighting applications in a single article, but we are able to break down any discussion on horticultural lighting into the ways it is affected by the laws of physics. These 32

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physical laws apply equally to all indoor horticultural lighting applications and are an invaluable source of reference when designing or assessing an indoor garden.

Diminishing Light Energy The inverse square law states that light energy diminishes exponentially. This physical law is important for the indoor gardener because it means that the farther a plant is from a light source the less energy there is available for photosynthesis. For example, the light energy hitting a leaf 2 m away from a light source will only be one quarter the amount

of light energy hitting that leaf at 1-m away. The optimal distance from light source to plant canopy depends on many factors but the two most pivotal are the wattage of the bulb and the way a grower chooses to remove radiant heat. A good rule of thumb is to place the light source as close to the plant canopy as possible without burning the leaves, which should ensure your plants are receiving the maximum amount of light energy available without subjecting them to stress.

Point of Diminishing Return The point of diminishing returns is used to calculate the point of maximum efficiency in terms of light energy. We use this formula to find the maximum amount of light energy that can be applied to the garden’s physical space without wasting energy. In other words, we are looking for the point at which adding additional light energy is no longer validated by any increase in yield. We usually discuss the point of diminishing returns in terms of watts per 0.09 square metre. It’s important to remember when discussing a garden’s square metres in a lighting context that we’re talking about the plant surface area, though—not the physical size of the room.

Through my experience with growing everything from sprouts to squash indoors I have found it is easier to separate vegetable crops into two general categories: leafy greens and fast-growing annuals. Lettuces, basil, sprouts and almost all of the culinary herbs are categorised as leafy greens, while tomatoes, strawberries, cucumbers, peppers, squash and most vegetables bearing fruit fall into the fastgrowing annual category.

“ I have found it is easier to separate vegetable crops into two general categories: leafy greens and fast-growing annuals.”

I found the point of diminishing returns for leafy greens to be around 25 W per 0.09 square metre and for most fast-growing annuals it seems to be around 40 W per 0.09 square metre of garden. For example, a productive use of a 1,000-W HID bulb for leafy greens would be a 3.7-square-metre plant surface area, which would take up a 2.4-m by 1.5-m space. A productive use of a 1,000-W HID bulb for fast-growing annuals would be a 2.3-square-metre plant surface area or a 1.5-m by 1.5-m space.

Leafy Greens: 1,000 watts 8 feet by 5 feet

=

Fast Growing Annuals: 1,000 watts = 5 feet by 5 feet

1,000 watts 40 square feet

=

25 watts per square foot

1,000 watts 25 square feet

=

40 watts per square foot

These examples are quite generalised and only represent two lighting footprint options for a 1,000-W light. The point of diminishing returns will vary greatly depending on the crop that is being grown and is somewhat subjective—depending on the crop’s market value and what I like to call its sentimental value. Sentimental value is unique to the individual grower because it is not based on purely financial considerations like overhead costs or profit margins—a person who really enjoys growing their own food indoors and values knowing where it came from probably doesn’t mind paying a little extra for the end results. For some fast-growing annual crops I will actually deploy more watts per square metre because paying a little extra on the energy bill is justified by the resulting increase in yield. This is especially applicable when the market value of a particular crop is higher.

“a person who really enjoys growing their own food indoors and values knowing where it came from probably doesn’t mind paying a little extra for the end results.”

No matter the market value, there is a point at which adding more light becomes useless. When more light energy is added to a given area than a plant can possibly process, the light saturation point will be reached and at this point adding additional light energy will result in no further gain.

Diminished Output All artificial light sources break down over time and their light energy output declines—just because a bulb continues to produce light doesn’t mean its energy output for horticultural purposes remains the same as the day it was purchased! High pressure sodium and fluorescent bulbs for indoor gardening should be changed every year, if not sooner. Metal halides tend to decline in light energy at a faster rate than high-pressure sodiums and should therefore be replaced more often. I replace metal-halide bulbs every six to nine months and high-pressure sodium and fluorescents every nine to 11 months.

To Summarise The light energy in an indoor garden is the driving force for plant photosynthesis. Wasting light energy or not providing enough to effectively cover your space is essentially depriving plants of the chance of performing up to their potential. Placing your light source as close as possible to the plant canopy, calculating the proper wattage for the plant surface area and changing your bulbs regularly will help maximise your return on investment and optimise the efficiency of your indoor garden.

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Plant Diet Basics:

A Recipe for Healthy Plants

by Matt LeBannister

Resolve to provide your plants the best nutrients this year. Matt LeBannister has some tips on how to go about it.

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When gardening indoors, you have to take on certain responsibilities to ensure your plants are healthy and thriving. This includes providing all the essential nutrients required for plant growth. Discovering which fertiliser is right for you can seem complicated, as there are many different types of organic and inorganic fertilisers to choose from. Some fertilisers are onepart formulations, while others are separated into two or three parts. Many nutrients are granular, others are slow release and some organic fertilisers need to be broken down before they can become available to plants.

MACRONUTRIENTS

Macronutrients are the nutrients that plants require the most. Plants require these elements in abundance throughout their life cycle if they are to thrive.

Nitrogen (N)

Nitrogen is essential to plant development. It is important for healthy leaf and stem growth and is needed in large amounts during the vegetative phase of plant growth.

Nitrogen regulates the plant’s ability to make new protoplasm in the cells and is also necessary for the production of amino acids, enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll and alkaloids. Nitrogen is needed in smaller amounts during the fruiting and flowering phase of plant growth. Excess nitrogen can ruin the flavour of fruit and vegetables, but built-up deposits can be flushed out with straight pH-balanced water or a hydroponic clearing solution.

Phosphorous (P)

Plants need large amounts of phosphorous during germination, cloning, fruiting and flowering and it is highly important to a plant’s ability to photosynthesise. Phosphorous is also a component of DNA, many enzymes and proteins.

Plants without access to large amounts of phosphorous during the fruiting and flowering phase will be stunted in growth and fruit production.

Potassium (K)

Plants use potassium throughout all stages of their development. It promotes strong root growth and increases a plant’s ability to resist bacteria, moulds, pests and stress. Potassium also increases the level of chlorophyll in foliage and is necessary for the transportation of starch and sugars throughout the plant. This mineral is also essential to the plant’s ability to regulate the opening of stomata, which allows the plant to use light and air more efficiently.

SECONDARY NUTRIENTS

Plants also require secondary nutrients. Most all-purpose fertilisers do not contain enough of these nutrients to satisfy the needs of fast-growing plants, so it is better to use high-quality, multi-part nutrient solutions.

Magnesium (Mg)

Fast-growing plants require plenty of magnesium throughout all stages of plant growth, but magnesium deficiencies are common in indoor gardens. This element is essential to the production of chlorophyll and the absorption of light photons. Magnesium also neutralises soil acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant.

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plant diet basics

“Liquid-soluble chemical fertilisers are an excellent choice for the indoor gardener and are great for hydroponic systems as well as soil and soilless mixtures.”

Calcium (Ca)

Plants require calcium throughout all stages of growth. In fact, they need almost as much calcium as they do macronutrients, so deficiencies are common. Calcium is necessary for the manufacturing and growth of cells and it is essential that plants have calcium in the growing tip of each root for the roots to thrive.

Sulfur (S)

Any high-quality nutrient formulation will contain sulfur, as nutrients combined with sulfur mix better than those without. Quality hydroponic nutrients will separate calcium and sulfur into A and B parts, because if they were to be combined they would form an insoluble compound—the evidence of this can be seen as a crusty residue on soil or at the bottom of hydroponic reservoirs. High-quality nutrients use foodgrade ingredients that are totally water-soluble and leave no residue.

Gardeners should avoid elemental sulfur: a better source would be a sulfur compound such as magnesium sulfate.

Sulfate is essential in the production of proteins and vitamins.

MICRONUTRIENTS (TRACE ELEMENTS)

Plants require micronutrients throughout all stages of development, but they only require small amounts of these nutrients to be present to maintain their health and vigour. Always use a quality nutrient formulation that contains the full range of trace elements— and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, as micronutrients can easily reach toxic levels.

Zinc (Zn)

Zinc works with other elements to promote enzyme production and also helps form and retain chlorophyll. It is commonly deficient in alkaline soil or hydroponic solutions.

Manganese (Mn)

Manganese plays an essential role in the chloroplast membrane system and also helps activate many enzymes.

Iron (Fe)

Iron is a necessary component in the plant’s enzyme systems. It is involved in plant respiration and must be present for plants to maximise photosynthesis. Iron is also a catalyst for chlorophyll production.

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Boron (B)

Boron is a bit of a scientific mystery, although it is believed to be essential to the production of RNA, cell division and plant respiration. Boron is rarely found to be deficient.

Chlorine (Chloride) (Cl)

Chloride is not part of most nutrients, but is found in most water supplies and is rarely deficient in plants. Plants require chloride for photosynthesis and it is highly important to cell division within the roots and leaves. Chloride is also required to regulate moisture flow within the plant’s tissues.

Cobalt (Co)

Cobalt is rarely listed on most fertiliser labels, but it is linked to the production of aroma-producing enzymes and is beneficial to root-zone bacteria.

Molybdenum (Mo)

Molybdenum is an essential element that plants require in minute amounts.

It is vital to two major enzyme systems that change nitrate to ammonium and is also employed by plants to oxidise sulfur. Molybdenum is rarely deficient or found in toxic levels.

Copper (Cu)

Copper is crucial in the production of many enzymes and proteins and facilitates the metabolism of carbohydrates throughout the plant.

It is necessary to a plant’s ability to fix nitrogen and helps ward off disease and keep plants healthy.

Silicon (Si)

Silicon is already present in soil and water and is rarely deficient or toxic.

A deficiency of silicon is confirmed to lead to a decrease in the yield of fruit and will cause new leaves to be deformed. Scientists are still studying the effects of silicic acid in plants, which is found in the epidermal cell walls and is thought to strengthen cell walls.

CHEMICAL FERTILISERS

There are many different types of chemical fertilisers. Some are liquid and come in one-, two- or three-part solutions. Liquid-soluble chemical fertilisers are an excellent choice for the indoor gardener and are great for hydroponic systems as well as soil and soilless mixtures. On the other hand, granular chemical fertilisers can be easily over-applied, can leave behind residues and are not recommended.

Time-released fertilisers can be easy to use, but are not suited for the indoor gardener as they are designed for uniform commercial growth. Avoid chemical nutrients that are low in quality and do not list or contain the necessary trace elements.

“Bone meal, worm castings, bat and seabird guano, fishmeal, greensand and manure are all excellent examples of organic nutrients.”

ORGANIC FERTILISERS

On a molecular level, organic nutrients are not really any different from chemical nutrients, though the number of isotopes may vary.

Chemical fertilisers are manufactured using fossil fuels, while organic fertilisers are more environmentally friendly. Organic fertilisers are also generally believed to improve the flavour and aroma of fruit and flowers.

Bone meal, worm castings, bat and seabird guano, fishmeal, greensand and manure are all excellent examples of organic nutrients. They can be more suited to use outdoors since many organic fertilisers need to be broken down before the nutrients are available to the plant, but there are new liquid types of organic fertilisers that are better suited to hydroponic and indoor gardening. Liquid types of organic nutrients are easy to apply and are instantly available to plants.

IN CONCLUSION

A quality nutrient solution contains all the necessary elements required for each stage of plant growth. Use this nutrient guide to better understand what your plants require and how best to meet their needs.

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

39

A Green Meal:

Seaweed

by Luis Bartolo

Seaweed is commonly consumed by humans, but it is also an excellent plant fertiliser, and research shows that highquality seaweed extracts can have positive effects on plant growth.

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

“ Seaweed supplies all trace elements required for plant growth across the entire spectrum.”

Seaweed has been harvested for food, fertiliser and medicine for thousands of years. History books record that the Chinese used seaweed for medicinal purposes as early as 3,000 B.C., and the Greeks used seaweed as animal food as early as the first century B.C. Today, seaweed is a common source of organic material to add to soil or soilless cultivation, but it was only during the latter half of the last century that techniques were developed to fully understand the physiological responses that seaweed clearly produces. Parallel to laboratory and industrial studies to characterise and understand seaweed, techniques were developed to extract and concentrate active ingredients used to influence plant physiology. So the use of seaweed in agriculture has moved from using a dried product, which was harvested by hand and spread on the soil, to distribution of so-called seaweed-derived products manufactured into small dried flakes, suspensions or solutions containing active ingredients produced from the seaweed raw material.

Seaweed by Definition

Seaweed is classified as a plant, although these plants are apparently a little behind in evolutionary terms compared with the more familiar plants seen every day. Seaweed may belong to one of several groups of multicellular algae: red, green and brown algae. As these three groups are not thought to have a common multi-cellular ancestor, the seaweeds are a paraphyletic group. In addition, some tuft-forming blue-green algae are sometimes considered seaweeds.

Seaweed is a colloquial term and lacks a formal definition. Botanists refer to these broad groups as Phaeophyceae, Rhodophyceae and Chlorophyceae, respectively. Brown seaweeds are usually large, and range from the giant kelp that is often 20-m long, to thick, leather-like seaweeds from 2- to 4-m long, to smaller species 28- to 58-cm long. Red seaweeds are usually

smaller, generally ranging from about 8-cm to 1-m length; however, red seaweeds are not always red. They are sometimes purple, even brownish red, but they are still classified by botanists as Rhodophyceae because of other characteristics. Green seaweeds are also small, with a similar size range to the red seaweeds.

Seaweed contains all known trace elements.

These are present in a form that is acceptable and available to plants. Trace elements can be made available to plants by chelating— that is, by combining the mineral atom with organic molecules.

Effects of Seaweed Research shows that high-quality seaweed extracts can have a five-principle effect on plant growth. All of them remove or reduce the influence of a number of growth constraints, with the result that treated plants function better, and produce higher yields and better quality crops. Seaweed supplies all trace elements required for plant growth across the entire spectrum. Seaweed and seaweed products also exert some form of biological control over a number of common plant diseases such as pythium. Soil fungi and bacteria are known to produce natural antibiotics, which hold down the population of plant pathogens, and when these antibiotics are produced in sufficient quantities, they enter the plant and help it to resist disease. The production of such antibiotics is increased in soil high in organic matter, and it may be that seaweed still further encourages this process.

Seaweed also acts as a soil conditioner. It has the ability to transform light and sandy soils into denser mediums by creating organic polymars that bind the soil particles together. This creates better structure and also assists in water retention.

If you’re considering adding seaweed to your grow this year, be sure to ask an expert on proper dosage and application methods.

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

41

by Dr. Robert G. Linderman Photos submitted

The term mycorrhizae describes the symbiotic relationship between specialized soil fungi and the roots of most plants on Earth. In part one of his three-part series, Dr. Robert G. Linderman provides the straight scoop on mycorrhizal fungi and what they are good for.

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

Greetings, plant people! As a retired research plant pathologist, I have conducted research on diseases affecting ornamental and nursery crops for nearly 50 years and studied root diseases with the goal of developing an understanding of the role soil microbes play in plant growth and health. I help many growers better understand how to improve the quality and health of soil by highlighting the three interactive soil factors: soil chemistry, soil structure and soil microbiology. These three factors are like a three-legged stool that must be in balance for optimal results in growing plants.

Currently, I am the science guy for two companies and consult with nurseries and other companies on the development of technology to apply beneficial microbes, such as mycorrhizal fungi and associated rhizobacteria, and contribute microbiological technology that will aid in achieving sustainability in agricultural crop production.

My role within these companies is to develop and transfer knowledge to production staff and provide them guidance and methodology so we can continue to produce the highest quality mycorrhizal fungal inoculum and other organic bio-based products for crop production systems. This boils down to biological farming, both philosophically and functionally.

The following article is part one of a three-part series that aims to give the straight story on the biology and application of mycorrhizal fungi.

A plant

with mycorrhizae is physiologically altered due to biochemical changes that occur in the plant.”

What Are Mycorrhizae?

The term mycorrhizae describes the symbiotic relationship between specialised soil fungi and the roots of most plants on earth. Myco = fungus, rhizo = root. These fungi have been associated with plant roots for 460 million years, ever since plants began to grow in soil. Other soil microbes become associated with the mycorrhizal fungi in the rhizosphere soil—soil associated with and influenced by root exudates. Then, rhizosphere soil becomes mycorrhizosphere soil—soil influenced by both fungus and roots. The mycorrhizal fungi become the interface between soil and plant roots—the fungi colonise the roots internally, and the soil externally. Internally, the fungus becomes the interface where nutrient exchanges occur between the fungus and plant by direct contact of the fungus with the root cells: carbon energy from the plant to the fungus, and soil nutrients from the fungus to the host plant. A plant with mycorrhizae

Mycorrhizal spores.

is physiologically altered due to biochemical changes that occur in the plant.

Types and Benefits of Mycorrhizae There are three main types of mycorrhizae: • Ectomycorrhizae—for pine, fir, spruce, oak and eucalyptus • Endomycorrhizae (arbuscular mycorrhizae) —for most crop plants • Ericoid mycorrhizae—for blueberry, rhododendron, azalea, Pieris and cranberry

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

43

mycorrhizae

increased

Papaya plant response.

Some plants, such as crucifers, the carnation family and sedges, do not form mycorrhizae. It is important to match host plants with the right kind of mycorrhizal fungi. The following is a list of benefits that refer to all three types of mycorrhizae, although some are more relevant to one type than the others:

produce quality can be a significant benefit of having fully functional mycorrhizae as early in the production cycle as possible.”

Improved Root Development Any treatment that can enhance the rate and extent of root development will greatly affect the growth and health of the whole plant. The specific situations can be an increased rooting of cuttings, enhanced secondary root development and simply increased root biomass. The benefit then goes further in that the plant has more roots to be colonised by mycorrhizal fungi, which can impart even more benefits to the plant.

Improved Transplant Success Many crops are transplanted into the field or larger containers for further growth. Frequently, transplant shock results in the failure of the transplant to survive or grow properly. It is now known that pre-inoculation of small transplants with mycorrhizal fungi can greatly improve transplant success into soils that may have one or more stress factors. The benefit of pre-inoculation with mycorrhizal fungi is often obvious.

Increased Yield and Quality When mycorrhizae form early in the plant growth cycle, multiple benefits can greatly affect plant growth and health. A bigger, stronger root system supports a bigger and more robust above-ground plant. Physiologically, the plant has been modified in many ways, some of which may mean the plant will produce more. Depending on the plant,

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

of course, the product may be more and larger onions or potatoes; larger, healthier trees or shrubs; or increased quantities or types of compounds produced within the plant tissues. Some of those chemical products account for increased resistance to plant diseases, others may be health-improving antioxidants or medicinal plant products. The literature is increasing with examples of such biochemical changes in plants with mycorrhizae as compared to plants without mycorrhizae. For food produce, such as onions or potatoes, the keeping quality of the produce is increased: onions are firmer and denser, and fruits are tastier. So, increased produce quality can be a significant benefit of having fully functional mycorrhizae as early in the production cycle as possible. To accomplish that, plants need to be inoculated in the early stages of that production cycle.

Greater Tolerance to Soil-Borne Diseases Growers of almost all crop plants can experience losses of plants or productivity due to the incidence and severity of root diseases caused by soil-borne fungal or nematode plant pathogens. This leads to the application of microbe-devastating soil

AD

mycorrhizae

greatly expand the absorptive capacity of the root system by means of the soil-penetrating fungal strands that can mine the soil for more distant and soil-bound nutrients like phosphorus (P), copper (Cu) or zinc (Zn). Those essential nutrients would not be available to the plants without the help of mycorrhizal fungi. So, when P is limited, arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi can explore a huge volume of soil, acquire the P and transport it to the root via the hyphal stands.

Improved Tolerance to Soil Drought Drought tolerance on pepper.

fumigants or drench fungicides, many of which greatly suppress mycorrhizal fungi. Many published examples show that inoculation with mycorrhizal fungi can suppress root diseases by mechanisms that are still being explored. My own studies have indicated that when mycorrhizae form, there is an increased amount of potential antagonists to the pathogens. The selective pressure for those antagonistic bacteria to increase in the soil around and influenced by roots (rhizosphere soil, now called the mycorrhizosphere soil, influenced by both the roots and the mycorrhizal fungal strands) is distinctly greater than rhizosphere soil around roots that are not mycorrhizal. The net result is that plants with mycorrhizae have less root disease than plants without, due to the increased antagonistic potential of the soil to pathogens.

Improved Soil Structure Due to Aggregation When mycorrhizae form, the symbiotic fungus colonises the roots internally, but then grows out into the soil, creating a huge fungal biomass in the soil.

The fungal strands (called hyphae for AM or ericoid mycorrhizal fungi, or hyphae and rhizomorphs [rope-like strands] for ectomycorrhizae) explore a large volume of soil for nutrients and water to support themselves and their host plant partner. Those hyphae produce a sticky material that binds small soil particles or aggregates into larger macro-aggregates that greatly improve aeration in the soil and enhance potential for water or nutrients to move down into the soil profile. Thus, soil tilth is improved.

Improved Fertiliser-Use Efficiency Many studies have shown that mycorrhizal fungi

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

When water becomes limited due to drought conditions, plants with mycorrhizae consistently fare better than plants without mycorrhizae. The mechanisms for that effect are at least two-fold: improved absorptive capacity of water from the soil by the fungi, and altered plant physiology that increases the drought tolerance of the plant.

Improved Tolerance to Soil Toxicities (Salinity) Salinity can be a plant growth-limiting factor in soil, as a result of salt accumulation from irrigation practices and application of fertilisers. When the salt level exceeds an EC of 4, most plants will suffer and exhibit a growth reduction and decreased yield and quality of produce. Many studies have shown that plants with mycorrhizae tolerate soil salinity better than plants without mycorrhizae.

Coming Up Next Time In my next article, I will address the range of application methods in terms of placement and amounts of inoculum, product quality evaluation Transplantability. and cultural practices that may reduce or negate the benefits from inoculation.

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Year-round

Blueberry Production

by Mike Nichols

There is an increasing demand by supermarkets and consumers to have the same produce available on a yearround basis, but fresh, locally produced blueberries are a seasonal crop, unless grown hydroponically.

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

chilling requirements in a greenhouse in coir The popularity of blueberries is not only (coco peat) modules, using liner plants and drip cosmetic, but also due to the fact that the berfertigation. We used 12 different cultivars with ries contain higher antioxidant levels than just distinct chilling requirements. Planting occurred about every other fruit, primarily due to the in a greenhouse in mid-December, and the blue anthocyanin pigment in the skin. So, there plants were 60 cm tall by the end of the summer, is an increasing demand to have blueberries thanks to the magic of growing in protected culavailable year-round. tivation using coir modules and adequate water It is, of course, possible to produce ripe and nutrition. Monthly from March 1, plants blueberry fruit somewhere in the world on any were placed in a cool store at 7°C for two, day of the year. Blueberries will grow out four and six weeks so that they experiof season in a range of climates, and in enced varying degrees of chilling, and Mexico, it is possible to produce them also different day lengths up to the for a considerable part of the year, start of chilling. A set of plants was simply by selecting the approprialso retained in the greenhouse ate altitude. I saw in a single day large amounts of quality without any chilling treatments. fruit ready to harvest and some berry fruit locally over a No difference in flowering several weeks from maturity, long season, it is essential was noted between any of the simply because they were grown to use protected cultivation treatments, although the early at different altitudes. However, and to incorporate varieties flowered first. All the freight costs and damage during plants produced flowers, which transport makes this an expensive hydroponic systems.” were pollinated by bumble bees. endeavour. And, while blueberry fruit However, the harvest was poor due to probably transports best of all the berry the cunning of the local birds, who would fruit, proximity to market is still desirable. sit on the automatic ventilators until they A further potential constraint to importation opened in the morning, when they would is that of plant quarantine, as many plant then have breakfast! viruses can be transmitted by the fresh fruit (I say potential as, although there The following year we had some are frequently stringent quarantine problems because the water pH at regulations for live plants, these do Massey is over 7.0, and we expeblueberry fruit probably not appear to be seriously considered rienced some iron deficiency transports best of all at this time for the movement of problems; nevertheless, there was the berry fruit, fruits between different countries). little doubt that blueberries could Theoretically, one can divide bluebe successfully grown out of season, proximity to market is berries into several different types, possibly even to produce fruit yearstill desirable.” depending on the quantity of chilling round, and that it might be possible units they require, but for out-of-season to obtain two crops per year by using production, the low-chill types are likely to be early-maturing types. the most desirable. Other key factors to conClearly, if there is a serious interest in the sider also must be quality, the size of the calyx availability of fresh blueberries year-round, and (at the end of the fruit) and the amount—if quarantine measures preclude importation, any—of damage to the fruit when harvesting. then a small research program should be able to So, to produce large amounts of quality berry determine the way ahead. The key points appear fruit locally over a long season, it is essential to to be the use of containers filled with a welluse protected cultivation and to incorporate drained growing medium, an efficient watering hydroponic systems. A sound knowledge on and nutrition program, and (of course) the crop agronomy is a further essential factor. appropriate selection of varieties.

In my studies at Massey University, I grew a range of different blueberries with different Article first appeared in Practical Hydroponics

to produce

while

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

49

Interpreting a Water Report: How to Make the Most of the Information You Have

by David Kessler Getting a water quality report is one thing, but interpreting the findings is a whole other game. Here, David Kessler shows us in the ins and outs of deciphering all those terms and numbers in relation to your garden.

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

So, you are holding a water quality report and you’re asking yourself, “Now what?” It says you have a pH of 6.84 and an alkalinity of 37.3. Is that good or bad? Well, read on my friends as we delve deeper into deciphering a water report.

pH An abbreviation of potential of hydrogen, this is the measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions (H+). The pH concentration is measured on a logarithmic scale of 1 to 14, with 1 being most acidic and 14 being most alkaline.

• Acceptable range is 6.5 to 8.0 • pH values under 6.0 and greater than 8.0 can cause severe problems • pH influences the availability of plant nutrients and other elements

Alkalinity Think of this as the ability of water to neutralise acid. The higher the alkalinity, the more acid it will take to lower the pH of the water. Alkalinity is a measurement that incorporates the amount of bicarbonates, carbonates and hydroxides joined to calcium, magnesium and sodium. Alkalinity is expressed in parts per million (ppm) of calcium carbonate (CaCO3). Anything above 120 ppm CaCO3 could cause a gradual increase in the pH of your potting medium.

Low-alkalinity water (less than 60 ppm CaCO3) is not able to neutralise sufficient amounts of acid. As such, the recurrent use of acidic fertilisers might result in a decrease in the pH of your growing medium.

“ A high Sodium Absorption Ratio—will prevent water from being absorbed by the soil.”

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51

interpreting a water report

Electrical Conductivity (EC) This is a measure of the conductivity of a solution. As the level of mineral salt dissolved in the water increases, so does the solution’s conductivity. EC is often expressed in reciprocal ohms (mhos). Most water reports express EC in millimhos per centimeter (mmhos/cm).

• Acceptable range is 0.5 to 0.75 mmhos/cm • Problematic range is 0.76 to 3.0 mmhos/cm The severity of the problem will be determined by two factors: which compound is responsible for the elevated EC and how high the EC is.

“ As the level of mineral salt dissolved in the water increases, so does the solution’s conductivity.”

Sodium Absorption Ratio (SAR) SAR is a measure of the suitability of water for use in agricultural irrigation. It defines the sodium (Na) hazard by comparing the concentration of Na to the concentration of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg). A high SAR value can cause reduced porosity in soils and create a salt crust on the surface, which will prevent water from being absorbed by the soil. Fine soils (clays) are affected more than large particle soils (sandy soils).

• Acceptable range is less than 10 mEq/L (milliequivalents per litre) • Problematic range is 10.1 to 18 mEq/L • Severe problem range greater than 18 mEq/L

Phosphate (PO4-3)

Phosphate is commonly found in groundwater and fertilisers. Too many phosphates can cause algal blooms in runoff water, followed by significant decrease in dissolved oxygen. You can manage these levels with reverse osmosis filters or build fertiliser programs around the levels in your water supply.

• Acceptable range is less than 1.2 ppm • Problematic range is 1.2 to 2.4 ppm • Severe problem range is greater than 2.4 ppm

Potassium (K+) Potassium originates from dissolved rock, soil and fertiliser.

High levels in the solution can increase K levels in plant tissue, thereby creating nutrient antagonism of N or Mg. You can also manage these levels with reverse osmosis filters.

• Acceptable range is less than 20 ppm • Problematic range is between 20 to 50 ppm • Severe problem range is greater than 50 ppm and can cause foliar damage

Calcium (Ca+2)

“ A high Sodium Absorption Ratio ...will prevent water from being absorbed by the soil.”

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Calcium originates from dissolved rock, limestone, gypsum, soil or fertiliser. High levels of Ca form lime deposits when combined with CO3 or HCO3.

• Acceptable range is less than 25 ppm for soil and water hazard, and less than 60 ppm for ideal foliar levels • Problematic range is between 25 to 250 ppm for soil and water hazard, and between 60 to 100 ppm for problems with foliar injury • Severe problem range is greater than 250 ppm for soil and water hazard, and greater than 100 ppm for severe foliar injury

Magnesium (Mg+2) Magnesium originates from dissolved rock, limestone, dolomite, soils and fertilisers. High levels of Mg form lime deposits when combined with CO3 or HCO3.

• Acceptable range is less than 20 ppm • Problematic range is 20 to 40 ppm • Severe problem range is greater than 40 ppm Keep in mind that when you are designing a fertiliser program, the ideal ratio of K:Ca:Mg is 4:2:1.

Zinc (Zn) Zinc occurs naturally in small amounts.

• Acceptable range is less than 2.0 ppm • Problematic range is greater than 2.0 ppm

Copper (Cu) Copper occurs naturally in small amounts, but Cu might be present due to corroding copper pipes.

• Acceptable range is less than 0.2 ppm • Problematic range is between 0.2 to 5.0 ppm • Severe problem range is greater than 5.0 ppm, but toxicity in some plants has been shown with levels as low as 1.0 ppm

Manganese (Mn) Manganese is dissolved from shale and sandstone, and is not usually a problem.

• Acceptable range is less than 0.2 ppm • Problematic range is greater than 0.2 ppm

Iron (Fe+2 or

)

+3

“ Copper Occurs naturally in small amounts but Might be present due to corroding copper pipes.”

Iron is the fourth most abundant element in the earth’s crust. It’s not easily absorbed by plants unless the pH of the water is less than 5.5. Iron can mix with bacteria, causing slimes that can clog irrigation equipment.

• Acceptable range is less than 0.3 ppm • Problematic range is between 0.3 to 5.0 ppm • Severe problem range is greater than 5.0 ppm • Levels greater than 5.0 ppm can form coatings on leaf surfaces, reducing photosynthesis.

Sulfate (SO4-2)

Sulfate is naturally dissolved into water from rock and soil containing gypsum, iron sulfides and other sulfur compounds. If mixed with calcium, scale can form.

Reverse osmosis filtration is the recommended course of action if levels are too high.

• Acceptable range is under 100 ppm • Problematic range is 100 to 200 ppm • Severe problem range is greater than 200 ppm

Boron (B) Boron is naturally occurring from ground water and decaying plant material. Boron is required in small amounts, but it is highly toxic when in excess.

• Acceptable range is less than 1.0 ppm • Problematic range is 1.0 to 2.0 ppm • Severe problem range is greater than 2.0 ppm

Sodium (Na+) Sodium is naturally occurring from dissolved minerals, but it also comes from road salt and fertiliser. Levels greater than

70 ppm can cause foliar damage (leaf burn).

• Acceptable range is under 70 ppm • Problematic range is 70 to 200 ppm • Severe problem range is greater than 200 ppm

Chloride (Cl-) Chloride naturally occurs from dissolved minerals and sea water, but it also could come from road salt, fertiliser and sewage. Levels greater than 100 ppm can cause foliar damage (leaf burn). Chloride can be absorbed by plant roots accumulating in leaves causing toxicity.

• Acceptable range is under 70 ppm • Problematic range is 70 to 300 ppm • Severe problem range is greater than 300 ppm

Nitrate (NO3)

Nitrate is naturally occurring in soil and from decaying plant material, but high levels of nitrate is often the result of fertiliser usage. High concentrations can cause plant tissue to become more susceptible to pests.

• Acceptable range is less than 50 ppm • Problematic range is 50 to 100 ppm • Severe problem range is greater than 100 ppm

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

53

by Chad Garbet Nothing is worse than finding pests in your garden or your growroom, and it’s no different when those pests are tiny fungus gnats.

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Fungus gnat infestations are a common nuisance in the garden. This tiny black creature with a slender thorax much like a miniature mosquito is annoying when in the area and its larvae eat away at precious root growth, destroying plant structure. Even the smallest amount of fungus can attract fungus gnats, and infestation can happen quickly—often before most gardeners can notice. The larvae—translucent, greyish-white, mini-worms with black heads—hatch from small, grey, silk-like cocoons.

Any signs of these creatures can stress gardeners out, and most people will immediately think of turning to pesticides. That might be a good option, but growers should remember that a pesticide is a poison and should always be used as a last resort. Luckily, we have other options. There are now natural-based gnat products on the market. Also, as humans have dealt with pests naturally for thousands of years, it is possible to take things into your own hands. Pesticide-free options are almost always an easy fix and, since most gardeners are busy people, easy fixes save some of that precious time.

First, you have to think like the gnat. Be the gnat. Now that you are a gnat: aren’t you kind of hungry? The next step is to figure out what they eat and how to get rid of that. They are called fungus gnats, so that saves us some brainstorming—fungus is the primary food source for gnats and these little bugs are attracted to it like the scourge. Fungus might not even be apparent at the time, but these pests smell it out. Small amounts of fungus are easy enough to clear out. In bad fungus cases, we might want to move directly out of the growroom. For small fungus infestations, an easy solution is baking soda. It’s in most refrigerators, cupboards and pantries, so it saves us a bit of time and some money.

Mix about a level tablespoon of baking soda and a single drop of dish detergent per one litre of water, remembering to shake well. Spray this on your plants lightly about once every three days for about two weeks. The baking soda raises pH, thus causing fungus to stop its growth, and the detergent makes sure the area is clean, stopping any more fungi from forming.

Now that the fungus gnat’s main food source is gone, hopefully no more of these pests will be attracted. After this, the current population’s numbers will start to dwindle. You might find a few stragglers, but I’ve got some home remedies to take care of these. Like Superman, fungus gnats have a kryptonite. It’s cinnamon. Those little guys can’t stand it. You can see them squirm when you lightly dust the soil with the cinnamon. The same effects are present when you water with chamomile or spearmint teas, although I personally think the cinnamon works the fastest. Gnats will literally flee the scene, leaving only a few egg sacks. However, you have to be persistent and repeat a few times or they will multiply and come back. After a few weeks of treatment, you will notice the fungus gnats are no longer present.

For heavily-affected plants, these home remedies might not work and pesticides might have to be applied. Remember, this is only a last resort; try the all-natural remedies first. Mother Nature provides us with more bugs to fight against the pests. Nematodes and Hypoaspis miles are two great warriors to use to get revenge on the fungus gnats.

The nematode is a parasitic round worm that enters the pests’ larvae and release a bacterium into the host, killing it within 48 hours. Hypoaspis miles is a predatory mite that also feed on the young of the fungus gnats.

Another bug that can work is ladybugs; if no aphids can be found, these guys will resort to eating other pests and they’re also a fun bug to have around.

So there you have it, some home and natural remedies to help with your fungus gnat problem. To make sure the little pests don’t come back, ensure your garden or growroom is always clean.

pesticides should always be used as a last resort.”

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

55

You Tell Us

Doing it Right the First Time ‘Round:

Gualala Robotics’ James Hamilton James Hamilton, president of Gualala Robotics (the maker of LightRail light movers), has a favourite motto: “If you don’t have time to do it right the first time, you must have time to do it again.” And it’s the basis of a thought process that has served him, and his company, well.

A mechanical background and laser-like focus were the contributing factors that helped James Hamilton take his company, Gualala Robotics, Inc., from its early inception to where it is today. The company first came to light in 1986 in the small coastal town of Gualala, California, and then moved from its Gualala/Point Arena location to Steamboat Springs, Colorado, in 1993. Products include 56

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

A mechanical background and laser-like focus were the contributing factors that helped James Hamilton take his company, Gualala Robotics, Inc., from its early inception to where it is today.”

As far as honours and accomplishments go, James is most proud of the fact that his company produces the No. 1 light mover in the world, and—in particular—that he has remained Made in the USA.” LightRail 3.5 Intellidrive (0 to 60 second adjustable time delay and travels at 1.2 m per minute), LightRail 4.0 Adjustadrive (same adjustable time delay plus an adjustable speed control of 0.6 m per minute to 1.2 m per minute) and LightRail 5.0 Commercial Duty with Intellidrive. We’re proudly made in the United States, with manufacturing in Steamboat Springs, Colorado, and distribution in Aurora, Colorado.

James’ work style would best be described as intense. Today, he oversees all departments but product development is what he enjoys most.

“It’s awesome to come up with the very products that help people to do a better job,” he says. “Moving your lights increases yields substantially (75% better with our Tomato Project and 85% better with our Pepper Project), but then to make our LightRails offer even more features—such as the Adjustadrive 4.0 with adjustable speed—well, that’s very satisfying.

“Also, speaking of product development, our new end-cap display bot is something brand new and this one is for the store owner. This item helps the stores to not only organize LightRail items but also to serve as almost an extra store employee standing there helping the customer with their LightRail questions. It has a 25.4-cm LCD screen, a looped info still shot tape and/or movie and a small working demo of a LightRail—all made so the store customer will get a better understanding of the workings of LightRail.”

As you can see, product development is huge for James, but he balances all this out with his two main hobbies: skiing—it is Steamboat Springs, after all—and building custom cars (once a gearhead, always a gearhead). His current project is the Off-road Rolls (you can see photos at offroadrolls.com) As far as honours and accomplishments go, James is most proud of the fact that his company produces the No. 1 light mover in the world, and— in particular—that he has remained “Made in the USA”.

As to what James has planned for his goal for the future of this industry, he says “to make indoor gardening more mainstream.”

This goes along with his bucket-list item, the primary thing he’d like to see one day: an indoor garden in most homes. Whether it’s a smaller-scale kitchen herb/lettuce/micro garden or a dedicated room growing enough food to feed a family with plenty of produce left over to help their local food bank, it’s time for this industry to take off in the mainstream arena.

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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talking shop

Owners: Stove and Dilys Location: Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, United Kingdom Phone: 01782 414448

Web: green-fever.co.uk Email: greenfever@talktalkbusiness.net Motto: “For lush gardens indoors and out”

For the past 10 years, Stove and Dilys have worked hard to build their business in Stoke-on-Trent. Here's how they came to be the place for all things grow.

Before opening Green Fever in 2004, Stove already had an extensive history in the horticulture industry, starting with his decision in 1999 to take time out to study horticulture full-time at Reaseheath College in Cheshire.

After two years at Reaseheath, an opportunity to move to Norfolk arose when Stove's partner Dilys, a paint specialist at Bentley Motors,

was offered a job at Lotus cars. It was in Norfolk that they discovered Grow Systems, a grow shop in Norwich that formed part of a franchise covering the East Anglia region. Stove continued his horticulture studies at Easton College, gaining several awards and qualifications including an Advanced Certificate in Horticulture and the Institute of Horticulture Prize.

Stove, co-owner of Green Fever, hangs out in the store.

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

Dilys, co-owner of Green Fever, mans the cash register.

Towards the end of 2003, a 12-month contract with McLaren Cars saw the couple relocate again, this time to Surrey. When this contract ended, the pair looked for a new venture closer to home in the North Midlands and a series of events led them to open a Grow Systems franchise in Stokeon-Trent. Grow Systems Stoke was established in December 2004 and the pair began with a national advertising campaign in several magazines.

Stove’s extensive background in the industry, along with Dilys’ chemistry background—Dilys has an honours degree in applied and analytical chemistry from Staffordshire University—and business acumen gave them the skills required to run a business in this industry. After three successful years as a franchise, in 2007 the business became independent and Green Fever was born. “It’s Stove’s horticulture knowledge that has given us an edge over any would-be competition,” says Dilys. “As more and more shops open, it’s our consistently good advice that keeps our customers loyal and brings in new customers all the time, mainly through word-ofmouth recommendations, which is the best possible form of advertising.”

Stove and Dilys can count on one hand the number of times they have left

the shop in the hands of others over the past nine years. “It’s a big commitment but we are here five and a half days a week, every week,” says Dilys. “We generally close for a week over Christmas and take the opportunity for a holiday, but other than that you will always find one or both of us here.”

The pair thinks it is this hands-on commitment to their store that makes the business stand out. “The industry is changing in that we now see a generation of growers for whom Internet buying is the norm,” explains Dilys. “Buying grow equipment online was unheard of when we opened and something we still find strange. We often see people who have bought something online and it isn’t really what they needed, or else they don’t have the knowledge to use it properly. Perhaps it’s a generation thing, but I much prefer the experience of real-life shopping and being able to interact with someone who has real knowledge of their subject, and our customers seem to agree.”

The success of Green Fever was reflected in the expansion of the premises in 2012. As the customer base and stock requirements grew, it became clear that the original shop would not be big enough into the future. Stove and Dilys considered moving locations towards the end of 2011, but didn’t find anywhere they particularly liked. Then in early 2012, the opportunity arose to take on the premises at the rear of the shop. They were able to increase the shop area, the total floor space was tripled and the stock level doubled.

“The increased space has made it so much easier to respond to our customers’ needs,” says Dilys. “We can now carry larger systems and hold more of everything in stock.”

A fairly recent success story has been the introduction of the area-specific nutrient range from HydroTops. “We have a formulation made to suit the water in Stoke-on-Trent, which is high in magnesium,” shares Dilys. “We had

water samples analysed by HydroTops from all across the city and into Derbyshire and Cheshire. Between us we probably have more information on local water quality than Severn Trent!”

Customers using the area-specific feeds have been seeing some great results— even over the hot weather experienced last summer. Anyone who lives outside of the city, or who has a specific water quality issue, can get their water analysed and if necessary, Green Fever will supply a custom-made nutrient.

This year, Stove and Dilys are celebrating the shop’s 10th year in business and are looking forward to building on what they have achieved so far. “We really enjoy the daily interaction with fellow growers and we like nothing more than to hear how well our customers have done with their crops. As long as that continues, we’re satisfied,” says Dilys.

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

59

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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MAX mART

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62

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

Want to see your store advertised here? call 1.250.729.2677 for more info

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors 1st Hydroponics Unit 5 K-Line House, West Rd. Ipswich, Suffolk UK IP3 9FG Tel: +44 (0) 1473 279829 www.1st-hydroponics.co.uk

Aquatech Horticultural Lighting Unit 3F, Spa Fields Ind. Es. New St. Slaithwait Huddersfield, West Yorkshire UK HD7 5BB Tel: +44 (0) 1484 842632

21st Century Garden Unit A6., Bounds Green Ind. Es., Ringway London, Greater London UK N11 2UD Tel: +44 (0) 2083 614659 www.21stcenturygarden.co.uk

Ashton Hydroponics Ltd. Unit 3 Park Parade Ind. Es. Welbeck St. S. Ashton-Under-Lyna, Manchester UK O4L 67PP Tel: +44 (0) 1613 391673 www.ashton-hydroponics.co.uk ____________________________

3 Counties Hydroponics Unit 52, Rober t Court Ind.E s. Britten Rd. Reading, Berkshire UK RG2 0AU Tel: +44 (0) 1189 874758 3 Counties Hydroponics The Lodge, 113 Invicta Rd. Dartford, Kent UK DA2 6AY Tel: +44 (0) 1322 273444 3 Counties Hydroponics Unit 13., Chiltern Bus. Ctr. Cowley, Oxford UK OX4 6NG Tel: +44 (0) 1865 771747 3 Counties Hydroponics Unit 11, Olds Close, Olds Approach Watford, Herts UK WD18 8RU Tel: +44 (0) 1923 774486 3 Countries Hydroponics Unit 12., Yew Tree Ind. Es., Mill Hall Aylesford, Maidstone UK ME20 7ET Tel: +44 (0) 1622 790456 3 Countries Hydroponics Unit 10., Woodley Yard Cherstsey Bridge Rd. Chertsey, Surrey UK KT16 8LF Tel: +44 (0) 1932 562174 3 Countries Hydroponics Unit 9., Galley Hill Yard Waltham Abbey, Essex UK EN9 2AG Tel: +44 (0) 1992 652301 A-Zee Hydro Ltd. Unit C4, Suttons Bus. Ctr.New Rd. Rainham, Essex UK RM13 8DE Tel: +44 (0) 1708 551199 ____________________________

Acorn Horticulture 65 Deep Ln. Sheffield, UK S5 0DU Tel: +44 (0) 1142 458581 www.acornhorticulture.co.uk ____________________________ Addloes Lighting & Hydroponics 16-A Maple Rd., Winton Bourmouth, Dorset UK BH9 2PN Tel: +44 (0) 1202 524525; www.addloes.com Allbright Unit 6., The Rise Edgware, Middlesex UK HA8 8NR Tel: +44 (0) 2089 582426 Animal and Garden Supplies Ltd. Unit 1 Eastlake Close, Litchard Ind. Es. Bridgend South Wales, UK CF31 2AL +44 (0) 1656 663030 www.animalandgarden.co.uk Anglia Hydroponics 62 A Straight Rd. Boxted, Colchester, Essex UK C04 5RD Tel: +44 (0) 1206 272677 www.angliahydroponics.co.uk Aquaculture Unit 79 (A) Carlton Ind. Es. Barnsley, South Yorkshire UK S71 3HW Tel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk Aquaculture Unit 3, Asher Ln. Bus. Pk. Asher Ln. Ripley, Derbyshire UK DE5 3RE Tel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk Aquaculture Unit 3, Pkwy One, Pkwy Dr. Sheffield, South Yorkshire UK S9 4WU Tel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk

Aztec Garden Unit 1A Roughan Ind.Es. Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk UK IP30 9ND Tel: +44 (0) 1359 271876 www.aztec-garden.co.uk _____________________________ Basement Lighting Ltd. Unit 3, The Old Maltings, George St. Newark, Nottinghamshire UK NG24 1LU Tel: +44 (0) 1636 650189 Big Stone River Garden Center Unit 1 East Gate Grimsby, Lincolnshire UK DN3 29BA Tel: +44 (0) 1472 241114 _____________________________

Bill & Ben’s Hydro World Unit D15 & D16 Erin Trade Centre Bumpers Way Chippenhamm, Wiltshire, UK SN14 6LH Tel: +44(0) 1249 447796 www.billandbens.com _____________________________ Blooming Borders Unit 3, Borders Bus Pk. Longtown Carlisle, Cumbria UK CA6 5TD Tel: +44 (0) 1228 792587 www.bloomingbordersltd.co.uk Bradford Hydroponics 9597 Manningham Ln. Bradford, West Yorkshire UK BD1 3BN Tel: +44 (0) 1274 729205 www.bradfordhydroponics.co.uk Branching Out Unit E, The Old Brewery, Durnford St. Ashton Gate, Bristol UK BS3 2AW Tel: +44 (0) 1179 666996 www.hydroponics-online.co.uk Bright Green UK Ltd. 42-44 Princess Rd., Hull, Yorkshire UK HU5 2RD Tel: +44 (0) 1482 341925 www.brightgreen-uk.co.uk ____________________________

Brit Crops Ltd Unit 9 OJ’s Ind. Pk.Claybank Rd. Portsmouth, Hampshire UK PO3 5SX Tel: +44 (0) 2392 669111 www.britcropshydroponics.co.uk ____________________________ Brite Lite Hydroponics Unit 11 Roman Ind. Es. Croydon, UK CRO 2DT Tel: +44 (0) 2086 834424 www.britelite-hydroponics-uk.com Bub’s allotment The Rural Granary Business Centre Unit 4 North Street Hellingly, East Sussex UK BN27 4DU Tel: +44 (0) 7528 098103 www.bubsallotment.co.uk

Listed alphabetically by shop name.

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BudMaster LED Glan Y Mor Rd. Llandudno Junction Conwy.

Gwynedd North Wales, LL31 9RU UK Tel: +44 (0) 8000 43LEDS www.budmaster.co.uk ____________________________ Chrissie’s Garden Unit 33 Portsmouth Enterprise Ctr. Quartermain Rd. Portsmouth, UK PO3 5QT Tel: +44 (0) 2392 667887 Clever Green 35 Ketley Bus. Pk. Waterloo Rd., Telford, Shropshire UK TF1 5JD Tel: +44 (0) 1952 257200 www.clevergreen.co.uk Crofters Bio Gardens Unit 2, Bloomsgrove Ind. Es.Ilkeston Rd. Radford, Nottingham UK NG7 3JB Tel: +44 (0) 1159 782345 www.croftersbiogardens.com Discount Hydroponics 1 Bus. Bldg. Waltergrave St. Hastings, East Sussex UK TN34 1SJ Tel: +44 (0) 1424 428186 Eastbourne Hydroponics 47 Upperton Rd. Eastbourne, East Sussex UK BN21 1LT Tel: +44 (0) 1323 732241 Eighteen Twelve Ltd. Unit 11 Whitehall Properties Towngate Wyke, Bradford UK BD12 9JQ Tel: +44 (0) 1274 694444 Elements Hydroponics 44 Auster Rd. Clifton Moor, York UK YO30 4XA Tel: +44 (0) 1904 479979 www.elementshydroponics.com Enhanced Urban Gardening 152 London Rd. Workingham, Berkshire UK RG40 1SU Tel: +44 (0) 1189 890510 www.enhancedurbangardening.co.uk Esoteric Hydroponics Ltd. 8 Martyr Rd. Guildford, Surrey UK GU1 4LF Tel: +44 (0) 1483 596484 www.1-hydroponics.co.uk Future Garden (Chelmsford) 15 Rob Johns Rd., Widford Ind.Est., Essex, Chelmsford CM1 3AG +44 (0) 1245 265929 info@futuregarden.co.uk www.futuregarden.co.uk Future Garden (Ilford) Unit E., The Acorn Centre Roebuck Rd., Hainault Bus.Pk., Essex, Ilford IG6 3TU +44 (0) 0208 265929 info@futuregarden.co.uk www.futuregarden.co.uk Garden Secrets UK Ltd. Unit 3 Hollybush Est. Whitchurch, Cardiff UK CF14 7DS Tel: +44 (0) 2920 651792 www.gardensecretsuk.co.uk Garforth Hydroponics Back off 11a main street Leeds, UK lS25 1DS www.garforthhydroponics.co.uk Great Stuff Hydroponics 30 C Ellemeres Ct. Leechmere Ind. Es. Sunderland, UK SR2 9UA Tel: +44 (0) 1914 474098 www.hydroponics-hydroponics.com Greater Manchester Hydroponic Garden Unit 3, The Courtyard, 157 Bolton Old Road, Atherton, Manchester, M46 9RE Tel: +44 (0) 1942 884612

Green Daze Hydroponics Ashington Unit 9 Waterside Ct. North Seaton Bus. Pk. Ashington, Northumberland UK NE63 0YG Tel: +44 (0) 1670 818003 www.greendazehydroponics.co.uk Green Daze Hydroponics Gateshead 10 Wellington St. Gateshead, UK NE8 2AJ Tel: +44 (0) 1914 789107 www.greendazehydroponics.co.uk ____________________________

Green Fever 18 Hartsill Rd., Stoke-on-Trent Staffordshire, UK ST4 7QU Tel: +44 (0) 1782 414448 www.green-fever.co.uk ____________________________ Green Life 190 Hessle Rd. Hull, East Yorkshire UK HU3 3BE Tel: +44 (0) 1482 222425 ___________________________

Greenfinger-Hydroponics Unit 3 Park Works, 16-18 Park Road, Kingston-Upon-Thames, Surrey, KT2 6BX Tel: +44(0) 208 546 3444 ____________________________

____________________________

Green Spirit Hydroponics Ltd. 8-10 Stanley St. Sheffield, UK S3 8HJ Tel: +44 (0) 1142 753353 www.greenspirit-hydroponics.com ____________________________ Green Stream 12-14 Vivian Rd. Harbourne, Birmingham UK B17 ODS Tel: +44 (0) 1214 262675 www.greenstream.co.uk Green World 1618 Market Vaults Scarborough, UK YO11 1EU Tel: +44 (0) 1723 370900 www.greenworld.ne.uk Greener than Life 575- 577 Holderness Rd. Hull, East Riding UK HU8 9AA Tel: +44 (0) 1482 374201 Greengrass Indoor Gardening Supplies Unit 5A Alexander Ct. Hazleford Way Newstead, Nottingham UK NG15 0DQ Tel: +44 (0) 1623 755055 ____________________________

Greenhouse Effect Unit 2 Eagle Farm Cranfield Rd. Wavendon, Milton Keynes UK MK17 8AU Tel: +44 (0) 1908 585283 ____________________________ Greenleaf Systems Unit 26, Millers Bridge Ind. Es., Seymour, Bootle, Liverpool UK L20 1EE Tel: +44 (0) 1519 331113 www.greenleafsystemsmerseyside.co.uk The Green Machine Ltd. Unit 1A., Felin Puleston Ind.Es., Ruabon Rd. Wrexham, UK L13 7RF Tel: +44 (0) 1978 265090 www.thegreenmachineonline.com

Greenfinger-Hydroponics Unit 59 T Marchant Estate, 42-72 Verney Road, South Bermondsey, SE16 3DH Tel: +44 (0) 207 394 0629 ____________________________

Greenfinger-Hydroponics Unit 38 Silicon Business Centre,28 Wadsworth Road, Perivale,UB6 7JZ Tel: +44 (0) 208 998 2034 ____________________________ GreenKeeper Hydroponics 141 Brook St. Chester Cheshire, UK CH1 3DU Tel: +(44 (0) 1244 630501 ____________________________

Green Spirit Hydroponics Ltd. Unit 6, Rockingham Business Park, Rockingham Row, Birdwell, UK S705TW Tel: +44 (0) 1226 399837 www.greenspirit-hydroponics.com ____________________________

The Green Room (Indoor Gardens) Ltd. Unit 61 Riverside III, Sir Thomas Longley Rd, Medway City Estate Rochester, KENT ME2 4BH Tel: 01634 716764 www.thegreenroomvip.co.uk Greens Horticulture Unit F Totterdown Bridge Est, Albert Rd. St. Philips, Bristol, Somerset UK BS2 0XH Tel: +44 (0) 1179 713000 www. greenshorticulture.co.uk Greenstream Hydroponics 12-14 Vivian Rd. Birmingham, Harbourne UK B17 0DS Tel: +44 (0) 1214 262675 www.greenstream.co.uk ____________________________

Greensea Hydroponics Unit 1G. Gregory Rd. Mildenhall, Bury St. Edmonds, Suffolk UK IP28 7PP Tel: +44 (0) 1638 715350 www.greensea-hydroponics.co.uk ___________________________ Greenthings Hydroponics Unit 1, Adjewhella Chapel Barriper Camborne, Cornwall UK TR14 0QW Tel: +44 (0) 1209 611870 www.greenthings.co.uk

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors Grotec Hydroponics 393 Manchester Rd., Rochdale, Greater Manchester UK OL11 3PG Tel: +44 (0) 1706 750293 www.grotec.co.uk Grotech Ltd. Unit 21. Saddlers Hall Farm, London Rd. Basildon, Essex UK SS13 2HD Tel: +44 (0) 1268 799828 www.grotechonline.co.uk Grow 4 Good Ltd. 22i Beehive Workshops Durham, UK DH1 2X1 Tel: +44 (0) 1913 757667 www.grow4good.net The Grow Den 2 Hothfield Rd. Rainham, Kent UK ME8 8BJ Tel: +44 (0) 1634 239333 The Grow Den Ltd. Unit 13., Eaves Ct., Eurolink Com.Pk., Bohan Dr. Sittingbourne, Kent UK ME10 3RY Tel: +44 (0) 1795 426264 Grow Green Ltd. 15-17 Green Ln., Castle Bromwich Birmingham, UK B36 0AY Tel: +44 (0) 121 241 6445 Grow Green Trade Ltd. Unit 4 Castle Trading Est. La Grange, Tamwarth, UK B79 7X0 Tel: +44 (0) 1827 62766 Grow Shaw 96-98 Shaw Heath Rd., Stockport, Manchester UK SK3 8BP Tel: +44 (0) 8452 725266 www.growshaw.co.uk Grow Zone UK Unit 7, West Court, Crantock Street Newquay, Cornwall UK TR7 1JL Tel: +44 (0) 1637 806115 www.growzoneuk.com GroSupplies Sovereign House, Ellen Terrace Sulgrave, Washington, Tyne & Wear NE37 3AS Tel: +44 (0) 1914 153345 sales@grosupplies.com www.grosupplies.com GroWell Hydroponics – Coleshill Units 9-11 Coleshill Trade Park Station Road, Coleshill Birmingham B46 1HT Tel: 0845 344 2333 coleshill@growell.co.uk www.growell.co.uk GroWell Hydroponics – Dudley Unit 52 Enterprise Trading Estate Hurst Lane, Dudley DY5 1TX 0845 345 6991 dudley@growell.co.uk www.growell.co.uk

GroWell Hydroponics – Wembley Brent Trading Estate North Circular Road, London NW10 0JF 0843 357 1642 coleshill@growell.co.uk www.growell.co.uk GrowinGreen Unit 6, Queens drive industrial estate, Newhall, Swadlincote, DE11 0EG Tel: +44 (0) 1253 675722 www.growingreen.co.uk Growing Life #6 Newington Green Rd. London, UK N1 4RX Tel: +44 (0) 2070 339541 www.growing-life.com Groworks 94 Upper Wickham Lane Welling, Kent, UK DA16 3HQ Tel: +44 (0) 2088 545160 Groworks Unit F16 Northfleet Industrial Estate Lower Road, Gravesend, UK DA11 9SW Tel: +44 (0) 1273 624327

Holland Hydroponics 17 Rondin Rd., Ardwick, Greater Manchester UK M12 6BF Tel: +44 (0) 8458 720570 www.hydroponics.co.uk Holland Hydroponics Express Unit 4 Leeds Rd. Trade Park. Leeds Rd., Huddersfield, UK HD2 1YR Holland Hydroponics Handbridge Mill 5 Parliament St. Burnley, Lancashire UK BB11 5HG Tel: +44 (0) 8458 720590 www.hydroponics.co.uk The Home Grower Ltd. Unit 8, Oak Court, Crystal Dr. Smethwick, West Midlands UK B66 1QG Tel: +44 (0) 1215 411446 www.thehomegrower.com

Groworks Unit 4 Belltower Industrial Estate Roedean Road, Brighton, UK BN2 5RU Tel: +44 (0) 1322 838131 Hackney Hydroponics 265 Wick Rd., London, UK E9 5DG Tel: +44 (0) 2085 330497 www.mile-end-hydroponic.co.uk

Hydro 1 Stop Unit 35 Deykin Pk. Ind. Es. Deykin Ave. Aston, Birmingham UK B67HN Tel: +44 (0) 1213 280876 www.hydro1stop.co.uk

Happy Daze Hydroponics Unit 4 Craven Court Hedon Rd. Hull, UK HU9 1NQ Tel: +44 (0) 1482 224299 www.happydazehull.com ____________________________

Hydro Hobby Unit 4 Brook Farm, Stoneleigh Rd. Gibbet Hill, Coventry UK CV4 7AB Tel: +44 (0) 2476 414161 www.hydrohobby.co.uk

The Grow Home Hydroponics Unit 26 Bolney Grange Ind.Pk., Burgess Hill West Sussex RH17 5PB +44 (0) 1444 244414 thegrowhome@hotmail.co.uk www.first4hydroponics.com ____________________________ Happy Gardens Ltd. Unit 9, Kelham Bank Ind Es., Kelham St. Doncaster, South Yorkshire UK DN1 3RE Tel: +44 (0) 1302 761386 Haverhill Hydroponics Centre Unit 14 Spring Rise Falconer Road Haverhill, Suffolk CB97XU Tel:+44 (0) 01440709474 www.haverhillhydro.co.uk The Head Gardener Unit 11, Barton Bus. Pk. Eccles, Manchester UK M3O OQR Tel: +44 (0) 1617 079860 www.theheadgardner.net

GroWell - Hockley Heath Ivy House Farm, Grange Rd. Hockley Heath, Solihull UK B94 6PR Tel: +44 (0) 8433 571640 hockley@growell.co.uk www.growell.co.uk

HFM Pyrotechnics Ltd. 165A Londford Rd. Cannock, Staffordshire UK WS11 OLD Tel: +44 (0) 1543 500800 www.hfmgroup.com

64

High Street Hydroponics Unit 56 Hebden R., Berkley Ind.Es., Scunthorpe, North Lincolnshire DN15 8DT Tel: +44(0) 1724 857191

Huyton Hydroponics & Gardening Supplies Huyton, Mersey Side UK Tel: +44 (0) 1514 820101 www.huytonhydro.co.uk

GroWell - Fullham 1 Royal Parade 247 Dawes Rd. Fullham, London UK SW6 7RE Tel: +44 (0) 8453 445174 www.growell.co.uk

GroWell - Mail Order Division PO Box 3255 Warwick, UK CV34 5GH Tel: +44 (0) 8453 455177 www.growell.co.uk

Listed alphabetically by shop name.

Hi9THC Unit 3. Rope Walk,. Coach Rd. Whitehaven, Cumbria UK CA28 7TE Tel: +44 (0) 7821 914646 www.hi9thc.co.uk

Maximum Yield | January/February 2014

Hydro Station Ltd. Unit 10 Hillfoot Ind. Es. Hoyland Rd. Sheffield, South Yorkshire UK S38AB Tel: +44 (0) 1142 491636 www.hydrostationltd.co.uk

Hydroponica Ltd. 130 Doncaster Rd. Wakefield, Yorkshire UK WF1 5JF Tel: +44 (0) 1924 362888 www.hydroponica.biz

manchesterhydroponics@yahoo.co.uk

Hydroponics.com Unit 24, Port Talbot Business Units Addison Rd Port Talbot, UK SA12 6HZ Tel: +44 (0) 1639 888891 www.hydroponicsdotcom.com

Mellow Yellow Hydro Ltd. Unit B1A Towngate Works., Dark Ln. Mawdesley, Lancashire UK L40 2QU Tel: +44 (0) 1704 822609 www.mellowyellowhydro.co.uk

Hydropower 300 Holton Rd. Barry, Vale Of Glamorgan UK CF63 4HW Tel: +44 (0) 7725 551479 www.hydro-power.biz

Midland Hydroponics Russells Garden Centre Baginton Coventry UK CV8 3AG Tel: +44 (0) 2476 639109 midhydroponic@aol.com www.maidland-hydroponics.com

Hydrosense 47 Scarrots Ln. Newport, Isle of Wright UK PO30 1JD Tel: +44 (0) 1983 522240

Midnight Garden 6 Howlbeck Rd., Guisborough, UK TS14 6LE Tel: +44 (0) 79333 449661

Hygro Hydroponics Unit C -55 Sunningdale Road, South Park Industrial Estate, Scunthorpe Lincs, UK DN17 2TW

Mousehold Garden Center 63 Mousehold Ln. Norwich, Norfolk UK NR7 8HP Tel: +44 (0) 1603 413272

Hylton Hydro Rockington Nursery Blackness Rd. Sunderland, UK SR4 7XT Tel: 01 9155 18453 Hytec Horticulture Old Wales Wood Colliery, Mansfield Rd. Sheffield, UK S26 5PQ Tel: +44 (0) 1909 772872 www.hytechorticulture.co.uk The Inner Garden Ltd. Unit 14., Cornish Wy., West, Galmington Taunton, Somerset UK TA1 5NA Tel: +44 (0) 1823 274791 Junction 10 Hydro Unit 55, Owen Road Industrial Estate Willenhall, WV13 2PX Tel: +44 (0) 1215 686850 www.j10hydro.com Kernow Grow Ltd. 11 D. Kernick Ind. Es. Penryn, Cornwall UK TR10 9EP Tel: +44 (0) 3300 104420 www.kernowgrow.co.uk

Hydrodragon Ltd. 113-115 Alfred St. Roath Cardiff, South Glamorgan UK CF24 4UA Tel: +44 (0) 2920 490333 www.hydrodragon.co.uk

King Of Green 18-24 Saint Helens Rd., Westcliff on Sea Westcliff, Essex UK SS0 7LB Tel: +44 (0) 1702 347536 www.kingofgreen.com

Hydroglo Ltd. The Top Store South Rd., Towerhamlets Dover, Kent UK CT17 OAH Tel: +44 (0) 1304 203199 Web: www.hydroglowltd.co.uk

Kitbag Hydroponic Warehouse 22 Pool Bank St. Nunaeton, Warwickshire UK CV11 5DB Tel: +44 (0) 2476 641033 ebaystores.co.uk/kitbagshop

Hydrogrow Systems Ltd. Unit 7, Acton Bus. Pk., Fields Farm Rd. Longeaton, Nottingham UK NG10 3FZ Tel: +44 (0) 1159 730007 Web: www.hydrogrowsystems.co.uk Hydrolite UK Ltd. 215 Denman St., Radford, Nottingham UK NG7 3PS Tel: +44 (0) 1159 785556 www.hydrolite.co.uk Hydroponic Corporation Unit 20, Deeside Ind. Es., Zone 1 Deeside, Flintshire UK SH5 2LR Tel: +44 (0) 1244 289699 www.t-h-c.biz The Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 15., Bay Airport Ind.Es., Kingston Pk. Newcastle, Tyne and Wear UK NE3 2EF Tel: +44 (0) 1912 862045 www.thehydroponicwharhouse.co.uk

Matilda’s Planet 1 Green Pl. Kenfig, South Wales UK Tel: +44 (0) 7895 567843 dale.hudd@grg.com

Lancaster Hydroponics Unit 18 Lansil Ind.Es., Caton Rd. Lancaster, Lancashire UK LA1 3PQ Tel: +44 (0) 7961 279279 www.lancasterhydroponics.co.uk Leeds HydroStore Unit 5 Felnex Rd. Leeds, West Yorkshire UK LS9 0SS Tel: +44 (0)113 249 4730 www.leedshydrostore.co.uk Lothian Hydroponics 172 S Mid St. Bathgate, West Lothian UK EH48 1DY Tel: +44 (0) 1506 650501 Makes Sense Grow Shop The Annex Rear of #20, Barden Rd. Tonbridge, Kent UK TN9 1TX Tel: +44 (0) 1732 507201 www.makessencesrowshop.co.uk Manchester Hydroponics Unit 1A, Reliance St. Newton Heath, Manchester UK M40 3AG Tel: +44 (0) 1616 887333 www.manchesterhydroponics.co.uk

Mr. Beam Hydro Rose Grove Selby Rd. Askern, Doncaster UK DN6 0ES Tel: +44 (0) 1302 708297 www.mr-beam-hydro.com New Age Hydroponics Unit 1 Albert Pl., Albert Mill Lower Darwen, Lancashire UK BB3 OQE Tel: +44 (0) 1254 661177 New Leaf Hydroponics 1 Horsewater Wynd, Hawkhill, Dundee UK DD1 5DU Tel: +44 (0) 1382 202556 www.newleafhydroponics.co.uk Norfolk Lights & Hydroponics Centre Ltd. Unit 2 Guardian Rd., Ind. Es. Norwich, Norfolk UK NR5 8PF Tel: +44 (0) 1603 666199 www.norfolklights.com Northwich Hydroponics Centre Ltd. Unit-7, Kingfisher Court, Denton Dr., Northwich Cheshire UK CW9 7TT Tel: +44 (0)1606 215 585 NuGreen Hydroponics Unit 4 Stirchley Trad. Es., Hazelwell Rd. Stirchley, Birmingham UK B3O 2PF Tel: +44 (0) 1216 855900 www.nugreenhydroponics.co.uk One Stop Grow Shop Unit 8, Fenton Ind. Es., Dewsbury Rd. Fenton, Stroke-On-Trent UK ST4 2TE Tel: +44 (0) 1782 212000 www.onestopgrowshop.co.uk Peterlee Hydroponics 9 Lister Rd. Peterlee County Durham, UK SR8 2RB Tel: +44 (0) 191 5861752 www.peterleehydroponics.co.uk The Persy Grow Shop 4 Kings Mews.

Brighton, East Sussex UK BN3 2PA Tel: +44 (0) 1273 777335 www.persygrowbox.co.uk The Plant Pot 69 Ratcliffe Gate, Mansfield, Nottinghamshire UK NG18 2JB Tel: +44 (0) 1623 422711 www.theplantpot.co.uk Planet Hydro Unit 11 NorthBridge Works., Storey St. Leicester, Leics UK LE3 5GR Tel: +44 (0) 1162 510800 Plant Life Unit 11, Riverside Wy., Ravensthorpe Ind Es. Dewsbury, West Yorkshire UK WF13 3LG Tel: +44 (0) 1924 492298 www.plantlife.me.uk Plantasia Brill View Farm Ludgershall Rd. Bicester, Oxfordshire UK OX25 1PU Tel: +44 (0) 8707 555225 www.plantasia.co.uk Progrow 5 Westwood Units, Alphinbrook Rd. Marsh Barton Trad. Es. Exeter, Devon UK EX2 8QF Tel: +44 (0) 1392 276998 www.progrow.co.uk

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Reading Hydroponics Unit 15 Albury Close Redding, Berkshire UK RG30 1BD +44 (0)11 8 939 4998 ____________________________

Southern Hydro Centre 9 Mamesbury Rd. Southampton, Hampshire UK S01 SFT Tel: +44 (0) 2380 704080 www.southernhydro.co.uk

Toddington Hydroponics Center Griffin Farm Unit 9., Toddington Dunstable, Bedford UK LU5 6BT Tel: +44 (0) 1582 664765 www.toddingtonhydroponics.co.uk

Southern Lights #1 25 Fratton Rd. Hampshire, UK PO1 5AB Tel: +44 (0) 1705 811822

Triangle Hydroponics Unit 6 Bornemouth Central business park.

South Cote Rd. Bornemouth BH1 3SJ Tel: +44 (0) 1202 556661 www.trianglehydroponics.co.uk

Rootzone Hydroponics Ltd. Unit 2 & 3., The Green Bus.Ctr., The Causeway Staines, Middlesex UK TW18 3AL Tel: +44 (0) 1784 490370 www.hydrowebshop.com

Southern Lights #2 19A Grace Hill. Folkestone, Kent UK CT20 1HQ Tel: +44 (0) 1303 210003; Tel: +44 (0) 1303 252561

Sale Hydro 71 Dane Rd., Sale Manchester, Lancashire UK M33 7BP Tel: +44 (0) 1619 739899 Email: care@salehydroponics.co.uk

St Albans Hydroponics Unit 5 London Rd., Bus.Pk., 222 London Rd. St Albans, UK AL1 1PN Tel: +44 (0) 1727 848595 www.stalbanshydroponics.moonfruit.com

Sea of Green UK 25 Eastcott Hill Swindon, Wiltshire UK SN1 3JG Tel: +44 (0) 1793 617046 www.seaofgreen.co.uk ____________________________

Somerset Hydro Unit4 Technine, Guard Ave Houndstone Business Park Yeovil Somerset BA22 8YE Tel: +44 (0) 1935 420720 www.somhydro.co.uk ____________________________ South Coast Hydroponics Unit 8., Enterprise Ind. Es., Enterprise Rd. Horndean, Portsmouth UK PO8 0BB Tel: +44 (0) 2392 598853 www.southcoasthydroponics.com

Starlite Systems 226 Albert Rd., Plymouth, Devon UK PL2 1AW Tel: +44 (0) 1752 551233 www.starlitesystems.co.uk Sub-Garden Supplies 45-J Leyton Industrial Village, Argall Ave., Leyton, London UK E10 7QP Tel: +44 (0) 2085 39956 Sunrise Hydroponics 127 Newcastle St., Burslem.

Stoke on Trent, Staffshire UK ST6 3QJ Tel: +44 (0) 1782 813814 www.sunrisehydro.co.uk Thetford Urban Gardens Ltd. 25 Brunel Way, Thetford, Norfolk, UK IP24 1HP Tel: +44 (0) 7780 232169 thetford.urbangardens@hotmail.co.uk www.thetford-urban-gardens.com

U Grow London Studio12, Imperial Studios, 3-11 Imperial Rd. London, UK SW6 2AG, Tel: +44 (0) 2073 843388 www.ugrow.com Warehouse Hydroponics Bank Quay Trading Est., Slutchers Ln. Warrington, Cheshire UK WA1 1PJ Tel: +44 (0) 1925 637837 www.warehousehydroponics.co.uk

ireland

scotland Progrow Scotland Unit 6., Nasmyth Square Houston Ind.Es. Livingston, West Lothian Scotland EH5 45GG Tel: +44 (0) 1506 430830 www.progrowscotland.co.uk Abergreen Horticulture Ltd Arch 8 Palmerston Rd. Aberdeen, Granpian Scotland AB11 5RE Tel: +44 (0) 1224 574737 www.abergreen.co.uk Edinburgh Organics 6C W. Telferton Edinburgh, Scotland EH7 6UL Tel: +44 (0) 131 669 0493 Kingdom Hydroponics Unit #12 Carbery Pl., Mitchelson Ind. Es. Kirkcaldy, Fife Scotland KY1 3NE Tel: +44 (0) 1592 655611 ____________________________

Culture Indoor Island 37 Eyre St. Newbridge County Kildare Ireland Tel: +35 (0)45 437639 www.bloomandgrow.ie Culture Indoor Island 4-A Slaney Court. Dublin Ind.Est Glasnevin Dublin Island Dublin 11 Ireland Tel: +35 (0)18 603917 www.bloomandgrow.ie

Hamilton Hydro Ltd. Unit 13&16 Murray Court, Hillhouse Industrial Estate, Hamilton Scotland ML3 9SL +44 (0) 1698281148 ____________________________

Northern Lights 9 Dunluce St. Larne Antrim, Northern Ireland BT40 1JG Tel: +44 (0) 2828 278485 www.northernlightsni.com

Hydra Hydroponics 41 Tower St., Edinburgh, Scotland EH6 7BN Tel: +44 (0) 1315 611332 www.hydraonline.co.uk

The Grow Shop 14 Brews Hill , Nauan, Co. M Fath Ireland OLI Tel: +44 (0) 1772 204455 www.thc.ie

Glasgrow 15 Parnie St. Glasgow, Scotland G15RJ Tel: +44 (0) 1415 527522 www.glasgrowhydroponics.co.uk

EZ Grow Perth 77 Scott St. Perth, Scotland PH2 8JR Tel: +44 (0) 7521 59730 U-Grow Organic Unit 11 North Canal Bank St., Port Dundas, Glasgow Scotland G4 9XP Tel: +44 (0) 1413 413352 info@u-grow.com www.u-grow.com

hungary BABYLON grow Csurgói street 15., Budapest, Pest megye Hungary Tel: +36 (0) 20 381 2802 babylon@babylon-grow.eu www.babylon-grow.eu Gomoa Trade Kft. Lágymányosi street 5., Budapest, Pest megye, Hungary 1111 Tel: +36 (0) 20 566 1186 gomoa.net@gmail.com www.gomoa.net Gomoa Trade Kft. Petofi avenue 50.

Szeged, Csongrád megye, Hungary 6725 Tel: +36 (0) 20 406 2182 gomoa.net@gmail.com www.gomoa.net Gomoa Trade Kft. Kazinczy street 3.

Pécs, Baranya megye, Hungary 7621 Tel: +36 (0) 20 351 4294 gomoa.net@gmail.com www.gomoa.net

COMING UP IN March/April 2014

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