AUS Jan/Feb 2010

AUSTRALIA January-February 2010

FREE

ED

TIFI

YS DEM

LIGHTING

SYSTEMS SIMPLE SOLUTIONS FOR THE GROW ROOM

Indoor Gardening Expo

montreal

2010 Quebec, Canada

June 5-6

CONTENTS january / february 2010 FEATURES 18

CEA Simplified: The Perfect Room, Right out of the Box

26

Stop Hydroponic Odours

28

Unravelling Indoor Gardening’s Silent Epidemic

by Erik Biksa

by Christopher J. Kline

by Daniel Wilson

18

32

Pollination: The Basics for Indoor Vegetable Gardens

by Clair Schwan

34

Monitor, Record, Adjust: Conductivity in Hydroponics

by Andrew Taylor

38

Let There Be Light: Lighting Systems Demystified

42

Selecting and Maintaining Mother Plants

by Trevor Holt

by Matt LeBannister

32

DEPARTMENTS 6

From the Editor

6

Letters to the Editor

8

MaximumYield.com

10 Ask Erik 12 MAX Facts

28

14 Product Spotlight 43 Check Your Growing IQ 44 Retail Directory

34

46 Coming Up in March/April 46 Do You Know?

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

5

FROM THE editor

jessica raymond

Happy New Year! Happy New Decade! Wow, it is hard to believe it is already 2010! The growth and advancements of the indoor gardening industry over the last 10 years has been incredible with no signs of things slowing up in the near future. Sustainability, organics and growing green are important issues that we all care about and are working towards. Throughout 2010 we will continue to present the articles and information that Australian growers are asking for that will take you in that direction. From small hobby gardens to small commercial greenhouses, growers are seeing and reaping the benefits of indoor garden production.

This issue is packed full of great articles to kick off the year.

Lighting, maintaining mother plants, pest control and CEA simplified are just a few of the hot topics for you this read.

Take a look at the new product profile section, which offers some great new products to help you grow bigger. A special treat offered for 2010 is the chance to win in our “Win Big! Grow Big!” online reader contest. We offer you three chances

to win quality products from Nutrifield, Flairform and Maximum Yield. Be sure to enter online at maximumyield.com/ winbigAUS to win and grow BIG! Maximum Yield is proud to announce our new cover photo contest “Behind the Lens.” Get those cameras clicking and send in your best photos that could win front cover placement on one of our five Maximum Yield issues.

Everyone is welcome to enter. Visit maximumyield.com for contest details and the chance to have your photo featured.

Happy New Year wishes for a happy, healthy, productive year!

Jessica Raymond, Editor

letters to the editor Love the E-News

I was pleasantly surprised to find the E-News in my mailbox, full of interesting tidbits. More contests and events, and especially more input from readers and growers like myself would make it truly worthwhile. I would love to see product reviews, real-life photos, industry reports and more grow tips in future editions.

editor@maximumyield.com

Eager Reader

Hi there. I was just wondering when the new edition of the Best of Maximum Yield 2010 will be available.

Thanks Monica Foerster

Sign up for the E-News by visiting maximumyield.com/newsletter.php

The 2010 Best of Maximum Yield and International Trade Directory is available now from local indoor gardening retailers. Grab a copy today or visit maximumyield.com for a fully downloadable version, available for free.

Accolades from Oz

The Great Debate

Amy Lee

I want to commend and thank you for sharing the story of the van Aurich family in Perth. The feature was ace. I appreciate your dedication to making this magazine truly Australian by getting into our communities and recognizing the achievements of our mates. It’s great to see such positive advancements being made in the field of hydroponics, and it is thanks in part to families like this one and businesses like Maximum Yield.

Congratulations on a spiffy publication.

Lara Morley 6

Maximum Yield Australia Nov/Dec 2009

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

The day after I picked up Maximum Yield, I visited your Facebook page – at the insistence of an editorial in the latest issue. The new content and discussions carrying on are truly fantastic. Props to Erik B. for setting a fire to the fans’ heels.

Can’t wait to drop in again for more heated debates on LEDs and nutrients in particular.

Jack Alderson Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com

Coming up on the Web Speed Read

1. Controlled release fertilizers (CRF) have many advantages in supplementing plant nutrition programs: they’re safe, simple and sensible. Don Mulcahy tells it like it is in his article this month on maximumyield.com 2. Perhaps plants and humans aren’t as dissimilar as we may think. That is the theory discussed by Luis Bartolo in his article “Who Really Runs the Show?”

3. Just as fast food fills our bellies but lacks any real nutrition, the bigger, faster approach to feeding our plants results in empty food.

“Complete nutrition is not only important in regards to the plant itself, it involves an ecosystem.”

—

Evan Folds

WIN IT!

Enter the Win Big…Grow Big giveaway to score high-tech growing gear and proven products from proven Australian manufacturers like Nutrifield and Flairform during January and February. Enter online at maximumyield.com/winbigAUS by February 15.

Look for this symbol throughout the magazine to find more exclusive online features, and don’t forget to share your opinion by emailing editor@maximumyield.com

Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you.

Flairform (www.flairform.com) – an Australian-based manufacturing company. As an analytical chemist with qualifications in plant function and nutrition, he has over 13 years experience in product research and development, and also writes extensively on hydroponic growing techniques.

Erik Biksa holds a diploma in

agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the “Ask Erik” column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world.

8

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092 PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Julie Madden - julie@maximumyield.com Gaby Morin - gaby@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Pentti Tikkanen - pentti@maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com

AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Futchatec Growth Technology Holland Forge Hydraspher SupplyNet

Maximum Yield is excited to announce resident expert Erik Biksa will be joining us as a moderator on Facebook. With a diploma in agriculture and 18+ years of hands-on indoor gardening experience and intensive research, Erik’s regular stream of content and insights on Facebook.com/MaximumYield will keep you coming back daily.

Andrew Taylor is the manager of

G A R D E N I N G

VOLUME 7 – NUMBER 5 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2010

ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com

JOIN US ON FACEBOOK

contributors

I N D O O R

UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS BWGS East BWGS West General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds

Daniel Wilson is President of Current Culture H2O, a progressively minded hydroponics company located in central California and inventors of the patent pending Sub-Current Culture (SCC) method. Daniel and Cheryl have also own and operate Tower Garden Supply, an organicallyminded garden supply and micro nursery in Fresno, CA.

Trevor Holt is the owner of Sydney-

Matt LeBannister works at Homegrown Hydroponics, the manufacturer of the DNF line of premium nutrients and enhancement products. Matt manages the retail store at Homegrown’s head office in Toronto and as of late has been traveling the trade show circuit as their resident expert.

Clair Schwan is an experienced gardener and builder of homemade greenhouses. For detailed discussion and pictures of his greenhouses, visit www.frugal-living-freedom.com. See his advice and counsel on a range of vegetable gardening and greenhouse topics at http://www.vegetablegardening-and-greenhouses.com

based Hydro Masta Pty Ltd. He has over 20 years of experience in the hydroponics industry. Their website (www.hydromasta.com.au) contains a full library of hydroponic help tips and ideas, plus their online store of over 800 quality products.

Email sales@hydromasta.com.au

ASK

erik

Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to editor@maximumyield.com with the words “Ask Erik” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.

Hey guys, I’ve got a quick technical question. I have a 250 MH bulb in a 60 by 90 centimetre grow space for romaine lettuce. If I got my math right, that’s about 42 watts per 30 centimetres. I know that lettuce needs less light than some crops, so is that amount of light too much, not enough or just right? I’ve got it about 60 centimetres above the lettuce.

I was also wondering if you could recommend a good online indoor gardening forum for questions like these. There are a lot of them out there, and I would imagine that you know the good ones.

Thanks a lot in advance.

Eric

Hello Eric, Thanks for the question.You might get some different answers depending on whom you ask. I’m not sure which gardening forum might be best but I would suggest hanging out at your local hydroponic shop. Growers may be able to achieve faster growth rates in traditionally lower light requirement crops such as lettuce by increasing the light intensity, particularly when supplementing carbon dioxide (CO2) levels. However, the additional heat associated with higher light intensities must be managed, as lettuce is sensitive to excessive temperatures and “bolting” may occur. In popular literature, many light recommendations have been made assuming warmer temperatures come with higher light.

Today’s grower may not have that same limitation. A light metre would be the best way to determine ideal lighting levels. Different light metres give readings in different units: from micromoles to micro-Einsteins, to lumens. There is much literature available to recommend ideal light levels as per light metre units specified. As mentioned, you may not encounter the same limitations, and choose to push the envelope a bit. If you see the edges of the leaves looking scorched, back off on the light and or temperature. As long as

you can maintain growing temperatures of less than 21°C, the plants should be able to make good use of higher light levels.

At a guess, it sounds like you have it right.You might be able to put the lamp closer to the plants, just make sure it doesn’t get past 21°C at the canopy. Remember that watts per centimetre is only an accurate reference when everyone assumes the same distance from the lamp. For a 250 watt lamp, growers requiring high light intensities may have plants as close as eight to 30 centimetres away from the HID source. The MH lamps is an excellent choice, as the spectrum (blue light) may help keep the plants from bolting, even under higher light intensities.

Cheers, Erik

MY

For previous “Ask Erik” features go to www.maximumyield.com

10

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia from around the world

Australians Not Getting Their Five-to-Ten A recent study revealing the eating habits of Australians showed a lack of fruit and vegetable consumption with no desire to increase daily consumption of these healthful items. Even more surprising is the identification that females, the demographic regarded as the most body conscious, eats the least amount of fruits and vegetables. The most meticulous fruit and vegetable eaters were men aged 65+, with more than 54 per cent saying they diligently ensure they eat enough fruits and vegetables every day.

The study, commissioned by Herron Pharmaceuticals, identified the top five reasons why Australians don’t eat fruits and vegetables, which includes: lack of forethought in planning diets to include fruits and vegetables; preference to eat other foods when hungry; distinct lack of craving for fruits and vegetables; boredom over eating the same fruits and vegetables all the time; fruits and vegetables are too expensive. A total of 1,000 Australians nationwide participated in the study.

(Source: http://hydroponics.com.au)

Massive Turnout for Walk Against Warming Brisbane’s fifth annual Walk Against Warming, held in December, was part of a global initiative to influence leaders at the UN Climate Change Meeting in Copenhagen to agree on a safe climate future. Organic agriculture could sequester nearly 40 per cent of current CO2 emissions if practiced worldwide.

Organic farming’s contribution to ameliorating global warming was just one focus at the walk, which was attended by 100,000 Australians. In Melbourne alone, 40,000 people took part in the walk. An information stand, hosted by the Australian Certified Organic body and Wray Organic, provided a platform where people could learn about the global benefits of organic food and farming. Walk Against Warming was one of a number of events held across Australia and the world on December 12 as part of a global day of action on climate change.

(Source: www.walkagainstwarming.com)

Flowers Ruling the Earth A new study on the evolution of flowering plants reveals how these crops developed more efficient hydraulics to increase rates of photosynthesis, and thus, dominate land over rival species.

Flowering plants are the most abundant and ecologically successful groups of plants on earth. Without this hydraulic system, scientists predict that leaf photosynthesis would be two-fold lower then present. Under relatively low atmospheric CO2 conditions, water transport efficiency and photosynthetic performance are tightly linked.

Adaptations that increase water transport will enhance maximum photosynthesis, exerting substantial evolutionary leverage over competing species. The mystery of when and how they increased photosynthetic capacity still remains.

(Source: www.sciencedaily.com)

12

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

AUSVEG and DuPont Forge Strategic Partnership The new partnership between AUSVEG, representing Australian vegetable and potato industries, and crop protection company DuPont will play a major role in improving the livelihood and productivity of more than 120,000 Australian farmers, their communities and the wider population.

The companies will collaborate on industry-relevant joint research and development, and marketing programs for the $3.7 billion wholesale Australian vegetable industry.

The partnership will also facilitate marketing initiatives and industry events, including the inaugural AUSVEG National Convention and Trade Show, and National Awards for Excellence scheduled to be held in Queensland in May, 2010.

(Source: www.ausveg.com.au)

Orchids and Fungi Partners for Life Three Thai orchids have been found to rely on a wide range of fungi to help them take carbon out of the soil instead of producing their own organic carbon. Aphyllorchis montana, A. caudata and Cephalanthera exigua orchids were studied. These orchids have no chlorophyll and rely on fungi colonizing their roots for their carbon supply.

The plants were collected from 10 different sampling sites in diverse parts of Thailand. It was found that certain tropical orchids associate with highly diverse soil fungi colonizing their roots. All these fungi associate with the roots of nearby green trees, where they collect carbon for the orchids.

Because plants interact with fungi in an unexpectedly diverse way there is a great need for more research on biological interactions in the tropics to unravel this diversity.

(Source: www.sciencedaily.com)

Australian Vegetable Prices Plummeting Plummeting vegetables prices in Australia, partly due to water shortages and poor rainfall, will make it difficult for vegetable growers to break even this year. The Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS) showed a 5.6 per cent fall in the price of vegetables.

According to the ABS reports, vegetable exports have fallen by 1.6 per cent and imports have increased by 80 per cent.

Other factors attributed to this price drop include rising input costs and pressure from international import markets like China and New Zealand. Large companies will be trying to import products from China, New Zealand and North American due to the strong value of the Australian dollar. It is up to the consumer to tell these companies that Australian jobs are just as important as profit margins. Improving country of origin labelling on products will also help consumers support the viability of Australian growers and help food security for the future.

(Source: www.ausveg.com.au)

High School Student Winner of Invent Your World Challenge The brilliant mind behind the invention of an algae-powered energy system is 15-yearold Javier FernándezHan. Combining a dozen technologies, the system treats waste, produces methane and bio-oil for fuel, produces food for humans and livestock, sequestered greenhouses and produces oxygen.

As winner of the annual Invent Your World Challenge, Javier has been awarded a $20,000 scholarship, which will be used to build the project.

The system consists of six subsystems, including an anaerobic digester for sewage and food scraps, a bio-gas upgrader to turn gases into food for the algae, a CO2capturing device and much more.

Javier would like to see the modular system targeted at developing countries that need self-contained sources of power and waste disposal. The excess methane could be sold for income, and thanks to the methane burning stoves, air pollution will be reduced. A scaled-down version of the system could be used for small houses or apartments that would cost as little as $200.

(Source: www.inhabitat.com)

Organic Trends in 2010 Due to the popularity of organic culinary creations, now a common feature on Australia’s most acclaimed restaurant menus, the Biological Farmers of Australia (BFA) have listed organics as a leading trend for 2010.

The country’s leading chefs and Aussie consumers alike are all fans of organic. After all, organic products are sustainable, and superior in terms of quality, flavour and freshness according to Australia’s best chefs.

Consumers are more health and ethically conscious and these changing consumer preferences are great news for organic farmers. Restaurant owners are taking an interest in where their food is produced and are going out of their way to find and support local and organic growers. In turn, chefs are able to produce the best.

(Source: www.ausfoodnews.com.au) MY MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

13

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favourite indoor gardening store.

BN X-ceL Pro(fessional) X-ceL is one of the oldest products made by Bio Nova. Several changes have been made over the years, to stay up-to-date with the newest developments in knowledge and bio-techniques.

A lot of insights have been made in the last couple years, allowing for new possibilities to stimulate plants and boost yields.

At Bio Nova we have followed these developments closely and are now able to introduce a new and very advanced version of our X-ceL. This super booster is a high end, state-of-the-art product, which complies with the latest bio-technical developments. This will show in healthier plants with measurable higher yields.

Because the properties of this product are so unique, we are excited about making it available so everyone can benefit from these new and astonishing developments.

This product is now available at your local indoor gardening store.

Introducing House & Garden Aqua Flakes Aqua Flakes Nutrients are comprehensive basic nutrients for growing on quantigo, mapito, rockwool, cocos and flakes and are perfect for recirculating systems. This product’s highly advanced mixing and composition keep hydroponic solutions fresh and clean. At the same time, each application provides plants with a perfectly balanced combination of nutrients for optimum production.

A and B Aqua Flakes Base Nutrients are composed of liquid main and trace elements and contain no bulking agents like solid fertilizers. They are composed of the purest high quality nutrients, including Eddha-Fe (iron), enabling the plant to absorb nutrients fast and effectively.

Advantages: • light-proof packaging ensures quality • sealed lid guarantees a fresh product • easy to use • very pure and ensures clean piping • highly concentrated and therefore very economical If you want an excellent start for your plants, House & Garden A and B Aqua Flakes are an excellent choice. To learn more visit your nearest hydroponics retailer.

Fulife by Nutrifield™ Fulife maximizes your yields by improving your plants metabolic processes. It is derived from organic carbon allowing your plants to grow faster due to improved photosynthesis. Fulife conditions soils and will cause an improvement in stomata openings. More stomata openings will allow for better plant respiration and transpiration, while helping the growth of beneficial micro-organisms.

Fulife does not increase the salt index of your system. Therefore, there is little effect on osmotic potential (salt build-up) allowing the plant’s water uptake to remain unaffected. Fulife enables you to run significantly lower electrical conductivity (EC) without affecting nutrient absorption.

Fulife is an organic electrolyte. Electrolytes are soluble particles that can effectively conduct an electrical current in liquid and plant substrates. The electrical activity serves to convert silica and metallic elements into easily absorbable plant food, while at the same time increasing the nutrient chelating speed. Plants respond by being able to take up previously unavailable elements leading to nutritionally satisfied healthy plants. For more information, please visit your nearest indoor gardening retail shop.

14

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

Introducing Cobra from Cash Crop Cash Crop Cobra is a combination of many different beneficial bacteria and fungi species, which assists in a plant’s growth by stimulating a massive root mass. Cobra also helps the plant tolerate temperature extremes, nutrient imbalances and drought.

Cobra contains 60 different strains of micro-organisms, 29 carefully selected beneficial fungi, nine endomycorrhizal, 11 ectomycorrhizal fungi and 19 strains of trichoderma bacteria. These micro-organisms colonize the plant’s roots and stimulate the roots to grow into the surrounding medium, greatly enhancing the absorptive surface area of the root system and forming an essential link between plant and medium. Also included is a specially formulated root bio-stimulant, vitamins C and B1, kelp and humates.

The plant will enjoy improved nutrient and water uptake and enhanced disease resistance.

Cobra is the most effective high quality product in the marketplace today, creating an optimum growing medium and plant growth conditions. Visit your hydroponics retailer today and ask for Cobra.

Non-DG pH Up and Down from Flairform Now available Products used for raising and lowering pH have traditionally been the most dangerous chemicals in the hydroponic industry. Flairform’s non-dangerous, non-corrosive pH Up and Down provide the first and most effective alternative to this problem.

• Equivalent working strength to most corrosive formulations.

• Safer to use.

• Easier to use: overdosing won’t drive pH to extremes; great for novice growers!

• More environmentally friendly.

Both products are super concentrated: pH Up – 600 grams/ litre potassium carbonate. Similar working strength to 400 grams/litre potassium hydroxide; pH Down 500 grams/ litre citric acid. Similar working strength to 800 grams/ litre phosphoric acid. These products are available in 250 millilitres, one litre, five litres and 20 litres.

Why trust a backyard chemist? Flairform: Analytical Chemists and Horticultural Consultants Since 1966. Ask for the revamped pH Up and Down from Flairform at your nearest indoor gardening store.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

15

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favourite indoor gardening store.

Alaska Pure by Nutrifield Alaska Pure is a complete flowering enhancer containing rich sources of potassium, natural plant growth hormones and 17 amino acids. It’s your ultimate organic potash. Potassium directly affects the production of chlorophyll while regulating stomata opening. This improves the plant’s ability to breath.

Potassium is also essential for the storage and movement of carbohydrates in plants. Carbohydrates are essential for the production of higher brix (sugar) levels to maximize the weight of your yield.

Alaska Pure is an exceptional source of auxins, cytokinins and gibberellins. In conjunction these all–natural hormones promote rapid cell division allowing the plant to uptake larger amounts of nutrient while improving its resistance to disease and pest infestation. Alaska Pure contains over 60 minerals with exceptionally high chelating ability. The unique formula also provides frost resistance and is able to deliver stress relief to unhealthy plants. Alaska Pure can be added to your reservoir with your nutrient solution or can be used as a foliar spray to maximize the benefits attained from its naturally occurring hormones. For more information, please visit a hydroponic retailer in your area.

Sun Pulse Lamps For 10 years, Sun Pulse Lamps has provided digital HID lamps for high frequency electronic ballasts around the world. These lamps come in four unique Kelvin colours – 3k, 4k, 6.4k and 10k, each for a specific stage of plant growth. Sun Pulse Lamps are made for plants and other living things that all need light like the sun. Every lamp, 600 watts or less, comes with a two-year warranty against manufacturer defects. Sun Pulse also arranges to plant a tree for every lamp sold to help offset its carbon footprint. For more information visit your local indoor gardening retailer.

16

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

House & Garden A and B Soil Nutrients Now in Retail Stores Never before have nutrients and soil been so well attuned.

The unique composition ensures that soil and nutrients are used to their full advantage. This gives the plant optimal strength during the growth and flowering periods.

House & Garden A and B Soil Base Nutrients are composed of liquid main and trace elements and contain no bulking agents like solid fertilizers. A and B Soil Nutrients are composed of the purest high-quality nutrients, including Eddha-Fe (iron). This way, you enable the plant to absorb the nutrients fast and effectively.

Advantages: • light-proof packaging to ensure quality • sealed lid guarantees a fresh product • easy to use • very pure ensuring clean piping • highly concentrated and therefore very economical If you want the best for your plants, House & Garden A and B Soil Nutrients are an excellent solution and a great basis for a successful growth. To learn more visit your local hydroponics retail store.

House & Garden A and B Coco Nutrients Now Available A and B Coco Nutrients require an extremely precise composition of the various minerals.

This excellently balanced nutrient has created a substantial group of satisfied commercial gardeners.

A and B Coco Base Nutrients are composed of liquid main and trace elements, contain no bulking agents like solid fertilizers and are composed of the purest high-quality nutrients, including Eddha-Fe (iron). This way, the plant absorbs the nutrients fast and effectively.

Advantages: • light-proof packaging ensures quality • sealed lid guarantees a fresh product • easy to use • very pure ensuring clean piping • highly concentrated and therefore very economical If you want an excellent start for your plants, House & Garden A and B Coco Nutrients are an excellent solution.

To learn more visit your local hydroponics retailer.

MY MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

17

CEA SIMPLIFIED: CREATING the Perfect room, Right out of the box

by Erik Biksa For those of you just tuning in to growing indoors, CEA (Controlled Environment Agriculture) growing set-ups are “sealed” or “perfect” grow rooms. This means that temperature, humidity and CO2 (carbon dioxide) levels are all very tightly controlled by the grower, and can be maintained at optimal levels at all times for better crop production. This separates CEA set-ups from traditional in/out style gardens that use an active air intake and exhaust to help moderate the growing environment. While in/out gardens can produce well, they are inconsistent because the environment that can be maintained in the grow room will largely be dependent on the RH (relative humidity) and temperature of the outside air being drawn through the room.

The most experienced and knowledgeable growers will maintain that CEA growing set-ups are more productive and easier to work with. A lot of newer growers view the idea of a sealed room with no active in/out fans as alien, and perhaps intimidating. Some smaller and mid-scale experienced growers agree with the CEA concept, but feel that such set-ups are reserved only for the large scale producer due to the additional expense involved versus traditional gardening set-ups.

t Keep it Tigh ed growing tely Pre-fabricat proportiona housed in to lp he s enclosures om nsulated ro larger well-i t-up. eal CEA se id e th te crea

18

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

“While HIDs can deliver bright light, they generate a tremendous amount of heat that must be managed.”

Well the truth is CEA is more affordable and easier to access than it has ever been before. It can be more economical to upgrade an existing grow room to CEA than it is to create a completely new grow room due to the more frequent, larger and healthier yields that can be achieved. The following will discuss how to set up a hobby sized CEA environment using plug and play technologies.You can also use the information in this article to convert your existing in/out set-up to a more productive and easier to control CEA grow room. Once you make the switch, you won’t look back. Do note, however, that CEA growing environments will use about 25 to 30 per cent more electricity versus traditional in/out set-ups. If electrical consumption is a major concern, there are some very energy efficient cooling methods for sealed environments now available, such as water cooling. The savings in electrical consumption using water cooling can help to recapture some of the initially higher capital outlay in more energy efficient CEA set-ups.

Remember that the principal difference between CEA and traditional in/out grow rooms is that an air-conditioner or chiller will cool temperatures without exchanging air. Humidity can be lowered with a de-humidifier, which typically cycles more often in the dark cycle as the air conditioner operating during the lighting cycle tends to keep humidity levels in the optimal range. Carbon dioxide is supplied via CO2 generators or bottled CO2, and the air is kept purified and free of contaminants with an activated carbon filter and/or HEPA filter scrubbers. The grower sets the desired temperature, humidity and CO2 levels on their control equipment. The level of control offered is every grower’s dream; you can manipulate the environmental parameters on a weekly basis to help encourage different traits in the crop throughout the cropping cycle.

“The level of control offered is every grower’s dream; you can manipulate the environmental parameters on a weekly basis to help encourage different traits in the crop throughout the cropping cycle.”

Step 1: Seal the Room The growing environment needs to be well sealed in order to be effective and efficient. The easiest way to accomplish this is to purchase a pre-fabricated grow tent or hydro hut available in a multitude of sizes. Pre-fabricated grow tents and hydro huts are completely sealable, and usually have multiple zippered openings to contain light and air, while maintaining complete darkness for the dark phase, which is absolutely essential. They are easy to clean and relatively water-proof, allowing people to set up a high quality grow room in any space that fits without making any significant alterations to existing rooms.You can usually have MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

19

CEA Simplified: Creating the Perfect Room, Right Out of the Box one completely assembled using minimal or no tools in less than one hour. Note however that they are not well insulated, so the area you set them up in should be, ideally.

If you already have a grow room, make sure to seal up any cracks and leaks. Go through the following checklist: • Remove and seal off previous intake and exhaust ports; you may choose to keep them for use with air-cooled lighting however.

• Seal off any cracks with expanding foam. Make sure to wear gloves and old clothes when applying.

• Ensure that any duct work, i.e. air cooled reflectors, is well sealed using aluminium tape.

• Make sure the doorway does not leak air. This can be accomplished by using a sheet of durable and reflective poly sheeting with some heavy duty adhesive zippers or Velcro strips.

• Retain your carbon filter and fan; you will need this for “scrubbing” the air within the CEA growing set-up.

• Ensure the grow room itself is well insulated to improve efficiency and reduce noises that can be disturbing outside of the growing area.

STEP 2: Equipment Checklist Environmental Controller(s): You will need: • cooling thermostat • de-humidistat • high temperature kill-switch If the temperature gets too high due to equipment failure or other problems, a high-temp kill switch shuts off the HID lights until temperatures go back to normal or until the problem is remedied. This device can save your crop.

Fan speed controllers are also recommended for use with air-cooled lighting and carbon scrubbers. For air-cooled lighting, a high quality fan speed controller will reduce your cooling requirements by more energy intensive equipment such as air-conditioners. If temperatures increase, fan speed increases and vice versa. Also, if the temperature becomes too cool, the device will shut-off the Fan Speed Control If you are running centrifugal inline fans for air cooled lamp reflectors, a device like this can really improve the efficiency and operation of your CEA endeavour by continuously adjusting fan speed automatically.

20

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

CO2 Enrichment Since the growing environment exchanges little or no outside air, CO2 levels are boosted for better growth and bigger yields.

air-cooling fans allowing for the growing environment to maintain the optimal temperature. If you use centrifugal fans for any kind of cooling purposes, get one of these controls!

Carbon Dioxide Gear One of the benefits of running a CEA grow room is that you can effectively supplement and maintain increased levels of CO2 in the growing environment for faster growth rates and increased yields of as much as 30 per cent, assuming all other growing parameters are optimal.

You will need: • either a CO2 generator (propane/natural gas) or a tank (bottled CO2) • an infrared CO2 monitor/controller (pricey, but worth it) or a timer.

Note: if going with a REG (regulator, flow meter and solenoid) system for bottled CO2, you may choose an IR monitor/controller or a timer. If going with a CO2 generator, only an IR monitor/controller is recommended for safety and accuracy.

Environmental Control Air Conditioner The AC or chiller unit is at the heart of all successful CEA operations. ACs are energy intensive, although they can keep a sealed room at the perfect temperature when sized correctly. The rule of thumb is to allow for about 4500 BTUs of cooling for every 600 to 1000 watts of light. The exact BTU rating required is somewhat dependent on how well the room is insulated; if the ballasts are in the room or not; if air cooled lighting is being used; as well as if a gas fired CO2 generator will be. It’s better to get a unit that’s a little bit of overkill than to have a unit that can’t keep up, forcing the grower to shut down individual lamps.

For most hobby sized one to two light endeavours, a portable upright style AC will do the job for a low cost. They are commonly available in 9500 to 12,000 BTU ratings for cooling.

They also have the benefit of being able to plug into common 110/120 volt household circuits, although an entire circuit (breaker) should be dedicated to the AC unit.

Most upright portable ACs will use a discharge hose to vent heat away. This means discharging heat to the outside, along with a small volume of air from the grow room. The air volume discharged is relatively small versus fan cooling rooms and cycles on and off rather than constant, so CO2 supplementation still remains relatively efficient.

Air Cooled Lamp Reflector Looking inside this air cooled lamp reflector, you can see the “in” and “out” duct ports. Heat is removed in this method before it gets a chance to heat up the grow room, reducing AC cycling.

An alternative method to create a small CEA environment is to install a window air conditioner in a spare room. The air in this room is kept cold at all times and can be vented into the CEA growing area to cool the air as necessary via intakes and ducting; the air from the growing area can be vented into the spare room, which now acts as the “lung” for the growing endeavour, keeping it cool and fresh. In these instances you may want to retain the duct ports from your existing grow room.

There are specialty air conditioners available that are better suited to CEA endeavours, although they usually need to be obtained from specialty suppliers. These types of units exchange absolutely no outside air with the air inside of the growing environment. “Split” ACs are an example of this, as well as units that utilize an exclusive air intake and exhaust to the AC unit itself. The intake and exhaust never touch the air from the growing environment; they are used exclusively to keep the AC blowing cold air into the grow room when activated by the cooling thermostat. In this method the AC itself is acting as a sealed unit.

“If you use water chillers/fan units to cool the growing environment, you will really need to step-up your dehumidification capabilities.”

Water cooled ACs are the ultimate for CEA endeavours. All of the heat is discharged down the drain with water, and no hot air needs to be discharged anywhere. Typically a flow rate of seven litres per minute is required to effectively operate water cooled air-conditioners, so access to large volumes of cold water is required.

De-Humidifier This will help to keep humidity from climbing to excessive levels in a tightly sealed room, as the crop transpires water through the leaves that was absorbed through the roots. Excessive humidity levels encourage stretchy low yielding growth and often promote diseases such as rots and mildews. A de-humidifier will add a bit of heat to the growing environment, and will discharge condensed humidity through a drain hose. The de-humidifier operates 24/7, although it will cycle most often during the dark cycle when the AC cycles are infrequent. If you use water MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

21

Specialized Air Conditioner An air conditioner like this one is ideal for CEA, because the unit will not exchange the air from your grow room with or into outside air; keeping things “sealed.”

chillers/fan units to cool the growing environment, you will really need to step-up your de-humidification capabilities.

For most applications, count for about 25 to 30 pints per 24 hour period of de-humidification capability per 1000 watt lamp of garden.

Carbon/HEPA Scrubber (with fan) You may already have one or several of these if you are converting your existing grow to CEA. Otherwise, you will need to sizeup an appropriate activated carbon filter or HEPA filter. In fact, the best solution is to use both. Have your fan draw the air from the grow room through the activated carbon, then discharge and re-circulate it through the grow room through a specialty inline HEPA filter. This will keep the air smelling fresh and clean, while reducing insects, spores, dust and pollen in the growing area. This equals healthier air yields, healthier plants and fewer problems.

Usually for an area with two to four HID lights, a 15 centimetre inline centrifugal fan with the correct sized carbon filter and the 15 centimetre fan mount HEPA will keep the air perfectly fresh for you and your garden.

The extra time and expense that you put into this will be worth it when you are able to realize exacting and complete control over the temperature, humidity and CO2 levels in your growing environment. Not only will you potentially yield more at harvest due to improved CO2 levels, you will be able to bring out delicious and eye pleasing qualities in your plants that can best be achieved through precise temperature manipulation made possible by running a sealed and air conditioned environMY ment. Until next time!

CEA Organs If CEA systems are “beasts,” the AC and de-humidifier featured here are like the heart; quite necessary to keep things alive and healthy.

Visit www.maximumyield.com for an allin-one materials list for a simplified CEA hobby set-up.

22

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

Stop Hydroponics Odours How to Keep Hydro Gardening Systems from Smelling Bad

One common complaint about hydroponics is the smell that often results, but with a little care and knowledge, a well run hydroponics system doesn’t need to smell bad.

With consistent application of the following tips a microbial equilibrium can be created in the hydroponics system that will not only have undesirable odours, but will consistently produce better harvests.

1

Keep the system as free of organic materials as possible.

Nutrient solution problems are often the cause of bad smells in hydroponics systems. Odours can be strong and persistent and are a result of bacteria metabolizing proteins that release amines and sulphurcontaining organic molecules into the solution. Microbial growth in the nutrient itself is a result of having organic materials in the system (fungi, for instance, needs organic matter to feed on). Because of this, it is important to avoid introducing unnecessary organic material into the nutrient solution or growing media.

Organic matter may have come from large amounts of old rotting root systems or vegetation from a previous crop or use of organic growing media. Take steps to avoid these problems by using non-organic starting medium for starting plants to be added to the system and a non-organic growing medium in the system. Between crops replace or clean the growing medium to remove unwanted organic matter. Use a dark reservoir and keep it covered to keep light and foreign organic matter out.

2 3

Take steps to maintain a microbial equilibrium in the system.

The microbial species which produce the bad smells, slime and other undesirable problems are not to be encouraged, but there are beneficial microbes that can be added and encouraged in the system. First, start with a clean, sterilized water source, add in the nutrients and then inoculate the nutrient solution with a mixture of beneficial microbes that can be purchased from hydroponics retailers and found with an online search for “beneficial microbes hydroponics.� This gives the beneficial microbes a head start and results in a healthy system where any pathogens should be suppressed before plant damage occurs.

Use only nutrients and additives that are specifically designed for hydroponics.

Avoid the use of organic fertilizers that are designed for soil-based systems. Many of these rely on boosting the population growth of microbes in the soil, which in turn break down organic matter, releasing nutrients. Many of the organic compounds are not fully mineralized and putting these soil-based organic fertilizers into a hydroponics system in large quantities can have rapid and unpleasant results.

26

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

4

Keep the nutrient solution well oxygenated.

Start with a clean system and keep the nutrient well oxygenated. This helps swing the equilibrium in favour of the beneficial microbes and provides oxygenated solution to the plant roots. Air pumps are now very inexpensive and should be used with an air stone to add oxygen to the nutrient solution. Plant only healthy seedlings into the system in non-organic starting media and remove any sick or stressed plants as soon as they are noticed, making sure to get most of the roots.

5

Flush the system and replace the nutrient solution often.

It is possible to test the nutrient solution often and maintain proper pH and nutrient levels, but it is beneficial and much easier to replace the solution every week or at least every two weeks. Set the system up so a water pipe can be easily opened to drain the system. Plan to drain the system when the reservoir is already low. Drain the solution into a watering can until the pump starts to draw air. Use this nutrient-rich water to water soil based plants. Add a few litres of pH adjusted water to the system and run the system for five minutes to flush. Drain the system again and then fill with pH adjusted nutrient solution and beneficial microbes.

6

Consider ozone generators and carbon filters.

Ozone generators and carbon filters are no substitute for the general hydroponics practices discussed in the previous tips and they may very well be unnecessary for odour control if these tips are diligently applied. They may, however, have benefits beyond odour control that are worth considering. For example, some systems claim to purify the water Carbon Filters by injecting ozone directly into the holding tank or the nutrient reservoir. In the water, excess ozone constantly breaks down into oxygen which super oxygenates the nutrient solution, promoting rapid healthy root development, plant growth and higher Ozone Generator yields. Carbon filters are probably the best way of removing odours from any area. Charcoal has long been recognized as one of the best vehicles for air filtering and different size filters are available for different sized growing rooms. Carbon filters are easy to install and operate.

MY

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

27

UnravelLing Indoor Gardening’s Silent Epidemic

by Daniel Wilson Long since the introduction of organophosphates in the early 1900s, farmers and gardeners have become accustomed to the convenient and complete annihilation of plant pests. But it wasn’t until the Green Revolution in the 1950s that the wholesale roll-out of these toxins took center stage on farms and gardens all around the world.

Long since the introduction of organophosphates in the early 1900s, farmers and gardeners have become accustomed to the convenient and complete annihilation of plant pests. But it wasn’t until the Green Revolution in the 1950s that the wholesale roll-out of these toxins took centre stage on farms and gardens all around the world.

Thanks in large part to the proliferation of petroleum-based synthetic nutrients, crops began producing unprecedented yields.

Unfortunately, plant pest populations also increased thanks to the lush growth provided by this new source of plant nourishment. It was this explosion in pest populations that drove the widespread use of organophosphates and other toxics as a means of controlling potentially detrimental pest activity.

And not surprisingly, like all genies once let out of their bottle, the use of these non-specific neurotoxins skyrocketed. Today you can walk into any big box store and you’ll find a plethora of complex chemical pest and disease controls to do your bidding.

Many of these patented formulas are adorned with misleading labels encouraging their use in the garden as a means of keeping your veggies clean and safe from pests. Just a stroll down the Pest Death aisle and you might find yourself with a headache or watering eyes. But don’t be surprised; these indiscriminate killers are just as toxic to you and me as they are to the insect kingdom.

Problem is we’ve just started to unlock the mysterious world of the living genomes and one thing seems certain, we are far more alike our insect counterparts than we are different. So with this said it seems that the likelihood of ridding the garden of pests while avoiding creating a toxic environment for ourselves, our pets and our world is pretty slim.

28

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

As a result of our ever-increasing desensitization to the use of toxic chemicals, there’s been a sharp increase in the application of extremely toxic pesticides in food and medicinal herb production.

These complex chemical compounds are being recommended for use in a variety of applications that should cause us all a great deal of alarm. Unfortunately it’s only when the government raises a red flag, as with DDT in the ‘70s and Methyl Bromide in the ‘90s, that we even hesitate before we dose. The sad fact of the matter is that even these governmental restrictions fail to convince people of the dangers lurking in the food chain when we use these killing tools.

So what’s the problem with the answer?

Indoor gardeners are a very resourceful and determined group of humans. When posed with an obstacle it is commonplace for a solution to be unconventional, and more often than not it’s something intended to suit the needs of other more mainstream end-users. Indoor gardeners rely on their local shops to offer them solutions to a wide array of pest problems from fungus gnats and white flies to pythium and fusarium.

But the pest that brings growers the most grief is without a doubt the two spotted spidermite and more recently the “Mendo” mite. These tiny plant vampires wreak havoc on plants by sucking away chlorophyll and dehydrating plants, making them much weaker and more susceptible to disease. It’s in response to this threat that growers of all sorts have began to compromise their own health in an effort to rid their gardens of what in many cases is a crop failure in waiting. And though

"Due to the availability of harmful pesticides, more and more gardeners are being turned on to what is basically the right tool for the wrong job." there are a wide variety of tools like neem preparations, pyrethrins, essential oil blends and beneficial insects, the restricted toxics have once again taken centre stage.

One commonly recommended poison has made a name for itself as a total and instant kill miticide. The active ingredient Abamectin is the by-product of a fermentation process from the bacterium Streptomyces avermitilis. This toxin’s mode of action is the induction of insect paralysis and subsequent death due to starvation.

The product label and MSDS sheets clearly state that it is approved for “ornamental” use only.

Unfortunately the majority of growers seeking out conSpidermites trols in retail garden shops are growing food. This simple oversight has led to many being exposed to what even the manufacturer would recommend against.

And though extremely effective, this microbiological derivative is often mistaken as a natural control given its relationship with the aforementioned micro-organisms. This unfortunately plays into the misconception that if it’s organically-derived it is somehow less harmful to mammals…wrong.

Here’s a list of a few other “organic” organisms you may be familiar with: cholera, anthrax, small pox, malaria, stacchy botris. Any of these ring a bell?

Here’s the bottom line: we currently have a silent epidemic amongst the indoor garden industry. Due to the availability of harmful pesticides, more and more gardeners are being turned on to what is basically the right tool for the wrong job.

The new pesticide paradigm has the misinformed retailer exposing the less informed gardener and eventually the oblivious end-user to what equates to a slow poisoning and toxification through second hand exposure. This exposure is especially bad when fruits/flowers are ingested, or worse, when applied to plants with naturally occurring essential oils, which tend to encapsulate the poison until volatized into a gaseous form by heat.

The reality is that in an industry that services the food movement we’ve turned a blind eye to those who’ve chosen to intoxicate as opposed to educate. It’s clear that in the face of a mite outbreak growers are looking for the absolute answer.

In a world where mites are considered the ultimate garden menace, who would you listen to, the person with a multitiered IPM approach or the person with the quick fix? What this has led to is the widespread dissemination of extremely poisonous chemicals.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

29

Unraveling Indoor Gardening’s Silent Epidemic

Another Inconvenient Truth But now we’re faced with an even more disturbing trend, and that’s the completely aware retailers and growers that differentiate their products by whether or not it’s for personal or commercial consumption. The idea that toxic chemicals are acceptable if it’s commercial products is arguably the biggest problem facing the world’s entire industrial food chain. It seems that now it has found its way into what had previously been a very conscious and thoughtful community of small farmers and gardeners.

The sad fact of the matter is that the eaters and end-users are the ones whom pay the ultimate price. And for those with compromised immune systems and terminal ailments the addition of these neurotoxins and endocrine disrupters can be the difference between life and death.

Sadly, since the pervasive nature of these chemical compounds lends to subtle side effects, it’s hard to know when you’ve been exposed. This unfortunately makes the covert use of this pesticide that much easier for those growers that decide to hide the use of it.

So for those of you out there considering what to use to fight those tiny spiders remember this: in a world where we all live downstream from someone, do unto others as…you know the rest.

What you can do As a means of controlling what has turned into a full-scale crisis, here are some things we can all do to bring this subject into focus: Learn! It’s in the absence of knowledge that we are the most susceptible to misinformation. Gardening and farming is a lifelong journey and information is the proverbial fuel for your vehicle. The more information we seek out and share, the further our journey will take us.

Hold your mentors accountable. Whether it’s a professor or a retail shop staffer, be inquisitive. If you’ve been recommended something your not familiar with be sure the person recommending it actually knows what’s really up. To often the phrase “bro it works, trust me” is all it takes to get you to make the purchase. Expect more.

If it’s sold under the counter you might end up six feet under. Though it may seem like your being done a favour, this under-the-

Remember pests are part of nature and if you see them on your food, chances are it is pesticide free. That's a good thing.

counter fix is often more like a Trojan horse. More often than not there’s a valid reason you don’t have access to this miracle quick fix. Anyone naïve enough to sell a restricted product is probably not looking out for your best interest.

Be your brother’s keeper. Take great care in what you decide to use on your garden. The sacred art of gardening is not something to be balanced like a profit and loss sheet, be thoughtful of the things you can’t see.

Be more tolerant. Pests are a part of nature as much as the crop you are farming. It’s due to our intolerance of mite damage that there’s been a movement towards pest free at all costs. Fact is, if you see pests on what you’re consuming its likely pesticide free, and remember that’s good stuff.

Report the illegal sales of controlled pesticides to your local agriculture department. This is not snitching - it’s a public service. Do your part.

"In a world where we all live downstream from someone, do unto others…"

Why grey is the new black and white In the world of IPM there is an understanding that no tools are off the table when necessity calls for results. If using a highly toxic pesticide is the means to an end then be sure to practice safe and thorough application techniques.

Always wear protective gear (respirator, goggles, etc.) when applying pesticides and make it count. Dipping plants when young then following up with natural practices can eliminate problems and help avoid needing more acute controls in the future.

But most importantly be accountable. If you feel the need to use restricted chemicals in your garden seek out the proper retailers and work closely with them. And if it’s necessary to achieve specific certifications before using something, take the time to seek out the training. If you take your garden seriously enough to use professional tools than take responsibility and educate yourself.

MY

Visit www.maximumyield.com for a few of Daniel's tips staying on top of potential pest populations.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

31

Pollination The Basics for Indoor Vegetable Gardeners

by Clair Schwan

Pollination of vegetable plants can be a problem for indoor gardeners because, well, your plants are indoors and not outside where natural pollination can take place. It’s a common concern for beginners with a greenhouse. Let’s take a general look at what pollination is and how we might handle such a task with our indoor gardens.

What is Pollination?

Pollination is part of the reproductive cycle of plants. It involves transferring pollen from male parts of flowers to female parts of flowers to fertilize the plant. Fertilization is essential so the plant can produce seed.

Some plants are self-fertile so they don’t need pollen from another plant. Their blossoms can fertilize themselves (within the same flower or from a flower on the same plant). Other plants require cross-pollination where pollen from another similar plant is used to fertilize the flower.

Vegetables like carrots, beets and broccoli are productive in the absence of pollination, because their seed is produced after it provides its food source to us.Vegetables that bear fruit, like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and squash, require pollination for the fruit to set, so it’s essential that pollination take place.

How are Plants Pollinated?

There are four basic ways that pollination takes place: animal contact, wind, self-pollination and human assisted pollination.

Here are some examples of each type of pollinator at work.

The overwhelming majority of plant pollination is performed by animals as they go about searching for food. Animal pollinators include birds, flies, moths, butterflies, and most importantly, bees. The best pollinators out there are the humble and hard working bumble bee and honey bee. While these animals search for sweet nectar, they help pollinate your vegetable garden. In our greenhouses, bumble bees can become completely covered in pollen while visiting squash blossoms.

Wind is another good pollinator. Corn is probably the best example to illustrate how wind pollination works. Pollen is blown by the

The grower can enable pollination between male and female flowers with the use of a simple paintbrush.

32

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

wind from the tassels on top of the corn plant to the corn silk that hangs out of the end of each ear of corn. That’s why corn is best planted in multiple adjacent rows instead of single rows.

Many types of plants are self-pollinating. Some plants pollinate themselves by having the male portion of the blossom grow into contact with the female portion. This can happen even when the blossom is closed.

When growing plants indoors, the chance of pollination by animals and wind is reduced, so that’s where we humans have to get involved to make certain our plants are pollinated.

Sometimes it requires a small paint brush, and sometimes we just need to shake the plant a bit or create air circulation to promote pollination.

Pollinating Indoor Vegetables There are several methods for making certain your indoor vegetables are well pollinated. The easiest approach to indoor pollination is to provide an opening for insects to enter. Bees will naturally find their way into your greenhouse or other indoor growing area if you give them an opportunity. An open vent or an open door is all they’ll need if they’re plentiful outdoors.

Tomatoes are mostly self-fertile, yet some have blossoms that don’t open, so they can’t be pollinated by bees or other insects, and indoors the wind can’t get to them. To ensure adequate pollination, just shake the plant lightly every few days after blossoms appear. This will help dislodge pollen inside the blossoms for fertilization that will help set fruit.

Squash plants have both male and female flowers. The male flowers are the first to appear and each lasts only a couple of days. A week or so later you’ll see the female blossoms appear.

They have tiny fruit on the bottom of the blossom. As soon as the blossom opens, use a small water colour paint brush and act as the pollinator in the absence of bees. Gently swirl it inside of a male flower to pick up pollen, and then brush it lightly inside the centre of the female blossoms.

An Alternative to Pollination Wouldn’t it be great if you didn’t have to be concerned about pollinating your indoor vegetables? Well, you don’t have to if you grow cucumbers especially bred for use in a greenhouse.

They’re known as European greenhouse varieties. They produce nearly all female blossoms, require no pollination, and produce an abundance of seedless cucumbers.

So, there you have it, the basics of pollination for fruit set and seed development. Even indoors nature can accomplish this task, but sometimes it needs a little help. To be on the safe side, I always help along my vegetable plants until I see that an abundance of bees have found their way into the greenhouse MY to pollinate the plants.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

33

by Andrew Taylor: Chemist of Flairform

Conductivity in Hydroponics (Part 1)

34

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

What is Conductivity (EC)?

A conductivity metre or EC metre (also known as mS, cF or TDS metre) is a device used to help monitor the concentration of nutrient solutions.

Conductivity represents the ease with which a solution conducts electricity. Numerically it is measured in units called siemens. Solid substances known as salts (e.g. sodium chloride, potassium nitrate), yield ions when dissolved in water. Ions permit the flow of elecFigure 1: Popular styles of conductivity metres: tricity through the Availability ranges from the more expensive solution. Increasing laboratory grade (left), to the cheaper, pocketsized (right). the concentration of ions improves the ease with which the solution carries a current and, therefore, causes a higher conductivity.

Liquids such as petrol and pure water are essentially nonconductors of electricity. Further, many water-soluble substances do not conduct electricity when dissolved in water. This occurs because these liquids/solutions contain very few ions.

www.flairform.com Š2009

Monitor, Record, Adjust:

Because hydroponic nutrient mixtures are usually composed completely of salts, their approximate concentrations can be determined via conductivity values. However, because each individual nutrient has its own specific conductivity value, and the concentration ratios between nutrients are continuously changing, conductivity readings need careful interpretation.

Only significant differences in day-to-day conductivity values may be important.

Nevertheless, when intelligently used, conductivity values are a valuable monitoring aid. Further, it is far preferable to quote conductivity values rather than TDS to monitor changes in hydroponic nutrient concentrations. Converting conductivity values to TDS is unnecessary and prone to large interpretation errors.

www.flairform.com ©2009 Figure 2a: Basic illustration of conductivity metre.

Figure 2b: Laboratory electrode - arrows highlight the palladium coated platinum electrodes.

How EC is measured?

A conductivity metre is essentially an “amp metre.” Two plates made of inert metal (palladium-coated platinum) are placed in the sample; an alternating current voltage of around 1,000 cycles per second is applied across them and the current is measured (Figure two ‘a’).

Conductivity (G), is the inverse of resistivity (R) and is determined from the voltage (E) and current (I) values according to Ohm's law: G = 1/R = I/E. Since the charge on the ions in a solution permits the conductance of electrical current, for most solution types the conductivity will increase with concentration. Thus, an EC metre can be used to detect the presence of salts and their approximate concentration in a solution.

“Because liquids contain very few ions, many water-soluble substances will not conduct electricity when dissolved in water.”

Units of measure for EC EC metres, nutrient labels and general literature represent conductivity values in several ways. The more common units are: • mS/cm (often abbreviated as “mS”). Pronounced “millisiemens per centimetre.”

• µS/cm (often abbreviated as “µS”). Pronounced “microsiemens per centimetre.”

• cF (conductivity factor).

• ppm* (parts per million) or mg/L (milligrams per litre).

These both have the same numeric value. These are the units for “total dissolved salts” (TDS). Metres that provide these units have internal software that mathematically converts conductivity readings into a TDS estimate. However, this estimate is prone to many errors and therefore its use should be avoided.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

35

Monitor, Record, Adjust: Conductivity in Hydroponics

i. Concentration effect With relatively dilute solutions of soluble salts up to 100 ppm or so, if the concentration is doubled, its conductivity usually also doubles. At higher concentrations, however, this strict proportionality deteriorates (see Table two). Note there is a better linear relationship between concentration and conductivity from one to two grams per litre compared to 10 and 20 grams per litre.

To utilize conductivity recommendaA consequence of this linearity feature tions you must first know what units your is that simple arithmetic can be used to metre operates in. This will be displayed calculate the approximate conductivities on either the digital display or stamped which would result from mixing differon the body of the metre. Some brands ent solutions of known conductivities. offer multiple options (e.g. cF, mS and For example, if a 2.0 mS/cm water is uS). If this is the case, choose the option diluted with an equal amount of disthat matches that used on the nutrient tilled water (zero mS/cm), the result label – or the recommendation you were would be approximately 1.0 mS/cm. given. For example, if a nutrient label Similarly, if 100 millilitres of a 4.8 mS/ specifies “mS” then switch the metre to cm nutrient solution is diluted with 900 read “mS.” millilitres of 0.40 mS/cm water (i.e. 1 + 9), the expected result would be about 0.84 mS/ cm (i.e. 100/1,000 x 4.8 + “If the concentration of dilute solutions of 900/1,000 x 0.40). soluble salts is doubled, its conductivity Table 1 Interconversion Factors

usually also doubles.”

If your metre is incapable of producing units that match the conductivity recommendation, then manually convert the values to match (see Table one). For example, if the label gives a recommendation of 2.0mS but your metre only works in cF, then convert the recommendation to cF by multiplying it by 10. (2.0mS x 10 = cF 20.

Factors affecting the EC value The actual conductivity value of an aqueous solution containing a single salt is determined by the concentration of that salt, the solution temperature and the nature of the particular salt.

36

ii. Temperature effect The effect of solution temperature on conductivity is such that its value rises by about two per cent (compounded) for each one degree increase. However, most metres automatically apply a correction factor to the determined value such that the displayed value is as if the solution temperature was at 25°C. iii. Effect of salt type The conductivity of different salts varies widely and is determined by such factors as the size of the ions, and the charge density on these particles whilst in solution. For example, the conductivities at 25°C of 500 ppm aqueous solutions of sodium chloride, potassium chloride and

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

potassium phosphate are 1.02 mS/cm, 0.95 mS/cm and 0.40 mS/cm respectively (Chart one).

Notably, the potassium phosphate solution has less than half the conductivity of a sodium chloride solution of equal concentration. Further, notice how potassium when combined with chloride (as potassium chloride) has a lower conductivity than what sodium does when combined with chloride (as sodium chloride). This is mainly because a 500 ppm solution of potassium chloride has about 30 per cent fewer ions to carry the current than a 500 ppm solution of sodium chloride – due to the fact that the combined mass of potassium and chloride is 30 per cent heavier than sodium chloride. Similarly, a 500 ppm solution of potassium phosphate has only 40 per cent of the number of ions than in the sodium chloride solution.

Table 2 Conductivity values given by increasing concentrations of a hydroponic ‘Grow” nutrient dissolved in distilled water.

The impact of salt type upon the EC value is further emphasized when the EC of typical uncontaminated waters is compared with that of an inorganic nutrient solution of equal concentration. For example, an uncontaminated bore water containing 1,000 ppm of salt will typically yield an EC of 1.8mS/cm.

However, an inorganic nutrient solution of the same EC will in fact contain 1,600ppm of salt. The reason for this is inorganic nutrient mixtures have much higher concentrations of the heavier substances like potassium and phosphate.

Chart 1 Conductivity of 500ppm Solutions of Various Salts

Bore waters, however, typically contain numerically more ions of lighter salts like sodium and chloride. The important point here is that the electrical mobility of these ions in water are not that different; it is the total number present that determines the conductivity.

Hence, when following EC recommendations in hydroponics, consider the composition of all additives. Flowering additives that contain a large proportion

of phosphate yield a relatively low conductivity. Consequently you need to be aware that their addition will produce less increase in conductivity than a normal inorganic nutrient mixture. Also, note that additives that claim to be 100 per cent organic should contain no salts and their addition would produce no increase in conductivity.

It should be emphasized that conductivity measurements determine total

dissolved salts only - not total dissolved solids. This is because the presence of solids and substances such as organics, clay, tannins, algae particles, precipitates, colour etc., will not affect the measured conductivity. Total dissolved solids can only be determined by evaporation methods. MY You can find all of Andrew Taylor’s articles on maximumyield.com by searching our author archive.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

37

Let There Be Light

Lighting Systems Demystified

by Trevor Holt There are many different types of lighting systems making it easy to get confused about which type you need. Each stage of growth requires different lighting and the wrong choice can make a great difference. Here I will briefly describe some lighting types and their functions. For your benefit we will keep it simple and go over only what's relevant.

Most H.I.D (High Intensity Discharge) grow lights are either vertical or horizontal reflector systems that are mounted separately from remote power boxes (ballasts or control gear) that actually strike the lamp. Because they can be kept away from the growing area, safety is increased and heat in the grow room is reduced.

Whether you purchase a horizontal or a vertical reflector depends on the size and shape of the area you will be using.

Horizontal reflectors are used in a rectangle shaped area and vertical reflectors generally are used in a square area. All of these reflectors are designed to better focus the light on the plants and are available in numerous designs. Remember, the idea is to create the most exact light needed for plant growth.

Grow Lamp Types There are many types of lamps used in lighting up indoor plants, from fluorescent tubes to H.I.D intensity lamps. H.I.D lamps have an arc tube in the centre of an external glass jacket.

The arc tube is filled with either metal halide or high pressure sodium particles. These need to be fired or struck by a very high voltage, and this is done by way of a ballast or control box.

In the ballast box is a choke, igniter and a capacitor, all of which work together in starting the lamps. Conventional lamp fittings like we have in our own homes will not do this, so don't try!

38

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

H.I.D lamps come in power ranges from 150 watts up to 1,500 watts. Not all similarly powered lights are of the same quality.

Unfortunately there are so many on the market at the moment that knowing which one is right for the job is hard to sort out.

These lights also need to have reflectors, which play an important part in plant development by pushing or directing the light down to the desired area.

There has been considerable debate in the past over whether metal halide or sodiums are better suited to indoor plant growth.

A lot of the data available can be a bit contradictory, but it is my view that results speak for themselves, so I would suggest you stick with what works – do your research.

Let’s take a look at some of the main types used and what job they perform in indoor gardening: Fluorescent tubes These have been used for seedlings, tissue culture and cuttings for a great number of years. By using fluorescent tubes to achieve mature growth, plants must be grown as close to the tube as possible without touching it, as this may burn the plant tissue. Each tube only outputs the minimum light required for plant growth and if placed further away from the tube the output of the light diminishes. Always use reflector housing, as this will direct the light towards the plant rather than away from it. This generally increases the light to the plants by 50 per cent.

The benefits of fluorescents are low initial purchase price of the fixture, and the low running costs; however, the negatives are that the plants will have smaller internodal lengths, smaller leaves and smaller flowers. Plant growth may also be slower than expected so as a general rule is they should only be used in the propagation stage of a plant’s growth.You would require a lot of fluorescent tubes to get good results in the flowering stage.

Metal Halides These lamps can be used to grow and flower an indoor garden, although most growers use these bulbs to vegetate their indoor garden only. When they decide to initiate flowering they use a high pressure sodium to flower, or a mix of both. Metal halide lamps are available in 400, 600, 1000 and 1100 watt versions. They emit a blue/whitish light to the eye and are used for increasing the plant's growth rate during vegetation. Metal halides are ideally suited to any indoor application where you want healthy vegetative growth and large bushy plants.

“With so many lighting options available, deciding which one is right for the job can be a difficult task.”

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

39

“High Pressure Sodium bulbs are the preferred light source because they allow the grower to vegetate and flower under one light.�

Retro fit lamps Retros were produced to run on opposing control gear, meaning you could effectively run one light fixture and change from metal halide to high pressure sodium when you wanted to flower. They are available in 150 watts right through to 1000 watts, although the 1000 watt version is extremely power hungry and has a high mortality rate! Retro fit lamps are available in high pressure sodium (HPS) and metal halide (MH).

The HPS retro lamps don't have the intensity or lamp life of the normal HPS lamps. The reason for their use is that metal halide control gear is cheaper to produce and runs at a slightly lower amperage than HPS ballasts. The metal halide retros are available in 400 and 600 watts and are used mainly in situations where growers want to mix light but don't have to change control gear to get a little bit more of the blue or vegetative end of the spectrum. Retrofits provide an economical alternative to growers who need a distinct light spectrum when required.

Remember, without a retro lamp you must marry up a metal halide lamp with a metal halide ballast and visa versa, high pressure sodium lamps with a high pressure sodium ballast.

High pressure sodium HPS bulbs are used during the flowering cycle of plants and are rich in the red end of the spectrum, although to the eye they emit an orange/yellow light.

HPS lamps will give you much tighter and thicker flowers than a metal halide and are available in sizes from 150 to 1000 watts. There are some manufacturers who have now put more of the halide particles into HPS lamps, which increases the blue spectrum slightly.

Consequently many growers will vegetate as well as flower under these. They are the preferred light source for growers who want to vegetate as well as flower their plants under one light source. It really depends on how you want to run your garden as to what light to use and when.

Lamp Life The average effective growing life of most horticultural lamps is not necessarily what is stated on the packaging. Manufacturers base lamp life on the total life expectancy, which can be misleading to the indoor grower. A lamp has a natural mortality curve that dips dramatically when it reaches 60 per cent of its life. How do you work it out yourself you say? If you don't have a light meter to test intensity, then the only way is to date 40

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

each lamp when you put them in. It has been my experience that it will soon show in the plant when your lamps need replacing because they will suddenly start to stretch and have long internodal spacings as a result of trying to absorb more light. Ultimately this will end up giving you very low yields as well as more plant problems like disease and pest infestations. Why you say? Because the plant is not strong enough to deal with them. This is due to its inability to absorb light needed to produce all the essential sugars. By increasing the light intensity, the ability of the plant to manufacture more of these sugars is boosted and, therefore, it is able to repel bug or fungal infestations much more effectively.

The average effective growing life of HPS lamps running on a 12 hour cycle are: nine months for 400 watts; 12 months for 600 watts; and 16 months for 1000 watts. If using an 18 hour veg (two week) and a 12 hour flowering (six week) regime, it would work out at three crops for a 400 watt lamp, four crops for a 600 watt lamp and six crops for a 1000 watt lamp. If running 1100 watts, I would follow the 1000 watt path in terms of when to change. For those of you who think they can run lamps longer I suggest you plot yields as well as problems that develop as most drops in yield and problems with bugs occur later in the lamp's life. Change lamps or pay the price in lower yields.

Running Costs Figuring out what light size you need is closely coupled to the power needed to run them. It's obvious that the larger the garden the more it will cost to run. The running cost of a 400 watt light is approximately $0.04 cents for every hour of operation. With HID lighting, if a 12 hour day is used, this will equate to about $3.00 a week. An 18 hour day would be $5.00 per week.

Finally, some important words about lighting. I have mentioned before, and I can't stress this point enough, that during the dark hours the flowering chamber must never be opened allowing outside light to get in. This is especially important during the first two weeks. Never (unless you want to do some real damage), let even a flicker of light get to the plants. Even a lit match or lighter is a major stress to the plant. The reason for this is that plants constantly produce a flowering hormone call phytochrome, which helps the plant develop flowers rather than leaves and exposure to light during the dark period will stop this hormone from working, suppressing the development of flowers.

MY

Access Trevor’s monitoring heights chart on maximumyield.com for proper placement of your lights.

by Matt LeBannister

With so many different varieties of plants available to the home gardener it is no wonder that people want to preserve their favourite strains. Gardeners can replicate all the traits that made a particular strain their favourite through cloning. A clone will have the same genetic make-up and sex as the “mother” or “parent” plant they were taken from. If you have a chili pepper plant that delivers a high yield, is resistant to insects or thrives in the particular climate you are growing in, these traits are worth preserving. Cloning also saves the grower time since they do not have to determine the sex of the plant and because clones mature faster than seeds. This equals a faster crop rotation and more crops per annum. The way to get the best clones is to take them from healthy, strong mother plants.

“Clones taken from plants that are too young or too old will be weak and will bare fewer fruit or vegetables.”

When selecting a clone or seedling to become a mother plant there are some rules to keep in mind; when first choosing a new parent plant one should always sacrifice the strongest and healthiest clone or seedling because their vigour will be passed along to the next generation of clones. The stronger a plant, the faster it grows, the more it produces and the less chance it has off being affected by disease or insects.

Once the future mother plants have been selected they should be segregated from the rest of the plants. This will hopefully ensure that any outbreak of insects or disease amongst the 42

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

general population of plants will not reach the mother plants.

Any gardener who has lost their favourite strain to bugs or disease will tell you that this simple precaution will protect years of hard work.

Once separated from the rest of the population, mother plants should be kept in the grow phase. Clones can be taken from plants that are flowering but they will not root easily and, therefore, it is not recommended. Eighteen hours of uninterrupted light and six hours of uninterrupted darkness is recommended although some gardeners will leave the lights on 24 hours a day.

To improve the overall health and vigour of the mother plants only feed them premium grow-phase nutrients.

Mother plants should be at least two months old before clones are taken and should be replaced once they are two years old to ensure clones taken are as healthy as possible. Clones taken from plants that are too young or too old will be weak and will bare fewer fruit or vegetables.

Leeching nutrients from the mother plants three days prior to cuttings being taken will also improve the health and vigour of the clones. Clones root quicker with no nitrogen in their system.

When there are no nutrients present the clone is forced to grow strong roots in order to search for nutrients.

The health of the mother plant is so important because it directly reflects the health of the next generation of clones.

Healthy plants mean less time, less trouble, better yields and more rewarding experiences for gardeners.

MY Matt’s articles, written exclusively for MaximumYield, can be found in the author archive at maximumyield.com

CHECK YOUR growing I.Q.

by Erik Biksa

Q

1. How are amino acids beneficial when incorporated in nutrient formulations? a) stabilize pH of solutions b) replace conventional nutrients c) help to improve the availability of nutrients d) none of the above 2. Although most synthetic nutrients are highly available for absorption, what is a significant advantage to having multiple sources for any single nutrient element? a) nutrient absorption is possible through a range of conditions; different nutrient sources perform better in different soil chemistries b) there is no advantage c) false statement: too many sources creates “nutrient lock-up” d) none of the above 3. Why is EC a more universal measurement than PPM (parts per million) with regards to measuring the concentration of nutrient solutions?

4. Green filtered light will minimize the interruption of photoperiods if entering the growing area during the “dark” period. a) true b) false

5. Which of the following cultural practices may help to shorten internodal distances: a) artificial lighting supplied higher in the “blue” spectrum b) maintaining equal day/night temperatures c) avoiding fertilizers high in ammonium nitrate d) all of the above 6. In planting seeds as a rule of thumb, seeds should be sown a the depth three times the diameter of the seed. a) true b) false

ANSWERS: November/December 2009 quiz

A

1) d 2) converts starches from roots to crop available sacharides 3) a, b, c, d 4) True 5) b 6) False Answers to this quiz will be printed in the March/April 2010 issue of Maximum Yield.

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

43

RETAIL

directory

ACT South Pacific Hydroponics #2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609 South Pacific Hydroponics 70 Oatley Court , Belconnen ACT 2617

(02) 6239 2598 (02) 6251 0600

NEW SOUTH WALES ABC Aquaculture 54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259 ASE Hydroponics Factory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 Ballina Hydro 3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478 Brunswick Hydro & Aquarium Supplies 19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 Criscete Hydroponics and Organics Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264 Dr. Van Der Bloom’s Hydroponics Supplies 5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450 Dubbo Hydro & Tobacconist 42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830 Ezi Grow Hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770 Ezi Grow Hydro 1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 Ezi Grow Hydro 56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795 Ezi Grow Hydro - Head Office 18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795 Favgro Hydroponics Growers 107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536 Felanza - Hydroponics 140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205 General Hydroponics 7/14 Sunnyholt Road, Blacktown NSW 9676 Green Sky 17 Beaumont Street, Rose Bay NSW 2029 Grow Australia Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 Grow Your Own Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264 Happy Grow Hydro 15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750 Home Harvest 423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216 Hyalite Moorebank 6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 Hyalite Villawood 2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 Hydro Masta 100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 Hydro Masta Pty Ltd 76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121 Hydro Net 2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261 Hydro Place 1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287 Hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies 2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 Hydro Shop Pty Ltd Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 Hydro Supplies 57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 Hydro Wise B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 Hydroponics Grow All Year 14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 Hygrow Horticulture (Greenlite) 252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 Indoor Sun Shop 745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 Indoor Sun Shop Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170

44

(61) 2 4393 3131 (02) 9477 3710 (02) 6686 7321 (02) 6685 1552 (02) 4973 5779 (02) 6651 9992 (02) 6885 1616 (02) 9832 1610 (02) 4588 5826 (02) 9832 1610 (02) 6337 1485 (02) 4472 7165 (02) 9556 1494 (02) 9676 8682

(02) 9473 5000 (02) 4973 5179 (02) 4732 2870 (02) 9567 8841 (02) 9824 3400 (02) 9723 7199 (02) 8812 2845 (02) 9869 3011 (02) 4334 6955 (02) 4965 6595 (02) 4958 1489 (02) 4960 0707 (02) 9326 0307 (02) 4333 5700 (02) 6921 5911 (02) 9369 3928 (02) 9808 6511 (02) 9822 4700

International Fans PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 Kyper’s Tools and Hydroponics Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mullumbimby NSW 2482 Lismore Hydro 1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 Lismore Hydroponics rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 Northern Nursery Supplies Pty Ltd 14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 Nowra Hydro 68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 Nutriflo Hydroponic Systems 19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 Parkview Plants 250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 Port Pumps and Irrigation 20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 Quik Grow 510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 Quick Grow 823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 Quik Grow Pty Ltd 490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 Simple Grow Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 Tweed Coast Hydroponics 2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 Uncle Wal’s Gardenland 31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 Underlights Hydro 3/319 High Street, Maitland NSW 2320 Westside Lighting & Electrical (Ezi Range) PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 Wollongong Hydroponic Center 318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 NORTHERN TERRITORY Katherine Hydroponics Centre 17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 QUEENSLAND A Happy Medium Hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 Allgrow Hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 Aquatic Oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 Billabong Hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 D-Bay Hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 E.T. Grow Home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 Eye Lighting Australia Pty Ltd PO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 Green Power Hydroponics 2/80 Beerburrum Road, Caboolture QLD 4510 Grow Hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 Gympie Army Desposals 92 Mellor Street, Gympie QLD Hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt.,Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 Hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 Hydroponics Today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 Indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068 J&K Hydroponics 10 Wacol Station Road, Wacol, Brisbane QLD, 4076

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

(02) 9833 7500 (02) 6684 4928 (02) 6621 3311 (02) 6621 3311 (02) 6563 1599 (02) 4423 3224 (02) 4323 1599 (02) 4423 0599 (02) 6581 1272 (02) 9636 7023 (02) 9546 8642 (02) 9568 2900 (02) 9604 0469 (07) 5524 8588 (02) 6550 0221 (02) 4934 4304 1 800 661 475 (02) 4225 8773

(08) 8972 1730

(07) 3809 3322 (07) 3376 7222 (07) 3245 7777 (07) 4126 3551 (07) 3204 8324 (07) 5591 6501 (07) 3335 3556 (07) 5428 1133 (07) 3816 3206 (07) 5482 6711 (07) 5593 7385 (07) 4091 3217 (07) 4035 5422 (07) 4683 3133

(07) 3271-6210

KY Garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 Nerang Hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 North Queensland Hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 Northern Hydroponics 383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 Pioneer Hydroponics 194 Doyles Road, Pleystowe QLD 4741 SA Hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 Simply Hydroponics Gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 Sunstate Hydroponics 1137 Ipswitch Road, Moorooka QLD 4105 Sunstate Hydroponics 67 Aerodrome Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 The Hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 Tumbling Waters Hydroponics 2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 Walsh’s Seeds Garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 SOUTH AUSTRALIA Amazon Aquariums & Gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Ascot Park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 Barry’s Hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 Black Max Ozone Generators PO Box 429, Noarlunga Centre SA 5168 Bolzon Home & Garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 Complete Hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 Country Hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 D & W Dependable Hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 Festive Hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 Fulham Gardener Nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 Glandore Hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 Greener then Green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noarlunga South SA 51 Greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 Greenhouse Superstore Royal Park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 Ground-Up Service Nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 Hackham Garden & Building Supplies 32 Gates Road., Hackham SA 5163 Hindmarsh Hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 Highland Hydro 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 Hong Kong Hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Hydro Heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 Hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 Hydro Technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008

(07) 3375 9098 (07) 5527 4155 (07) 4728 3957 (07) 4054 5884 (07) 4959 2016 (07) 3285 1355 (07) 5596 2250 (07) 3848 5288 (07) 5479 1011 (07) 3354 1588 (07) 4096 6443 (07) 4636 1077

(08) 8359 1800 (08) 8357 4700 (08) 8281 4066

(08) 8265 0665 (08) 8396 3133 (08) 8258 4022 (08) 8645 3105 (08) 8287 6399 (08) 8523 5100 (08) 8235 2004 (08) 8447-1122 (08) 8371 5777 (08) 8386 2596 (08) 8382 0100 (08) 8447 5899 (08) 8264 9455

(08) 8346 9461 (08) 8395 4455 (08) 8260 2000 (08) 8391 1880 (08) 8272 2000 (08) 8241 5022

RETAIL

directory

Hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 Hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 Island Salads - Kangaroo Island PO Box 78, Kingscote SA 5223 Koko’s Hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 Larg’s Bay Garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 Martins Road Hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 Mitre 10 Drive In 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 New Age Hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 Owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 Professional Hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 Professional Hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 Professional Hydroponics 113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA Soladome Aquaculture & Hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 South Coast Hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 South East Hydroponics 1A Lindsay Street, Mt. Gambier SA 5290 State Hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 Tea Tree Gully Hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 Two Wells Hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 West Garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113

(08) 8377 1200 (08) 8262 8323

(08) 8260 5463 (08) 8242 3788 (08) 8283 4011 (08) 8445 1813 (08) 8351 9100 (08) 8528 6008 (08) 8353 0133 (08) 8365 5172 (08) 8532 3441 (08) 8362 8042 (08) 8384 2380

(08) 8341 5991 (08) 8264 9455 (08) 8520 2287 (08) 8255 1355

TASMANIA Advanced Hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 Ezy Grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 Garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 Green Acres Hydroponics 46-48 Binalong Rd., Mornington Tas 7018 Growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 Hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 Organic Garden Supplies Tas 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 The Hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 The Hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428 VICTORIA Albury Hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 All Seasons Hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 Banksia Greenhouse and Outdoor Garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 Barb’s Hydro and Nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 Bayside Hydroponics Factory 2/8 Rutherford Road, Seaford Vic 3196 Belgrave Hydroponics 1642 Burwood Highway, Belgrave Vic 3160 Brew ‘N’ Grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199

(03) 6344 5588 (03) 6243 9490 (03) 6330 1177 (03) 6245 1066 (03) 6273 6088 (03) 6435 4411 (03) 6424 7815 (03) 6273 1411 (03) 6340 2222

(03) 9540 8000 (03) 9540 8000 (03) 9801 8070 (03) 5674 2584 (03) 9775 0495 (03) 9754 3712 (03) 9783 3006

Casey Hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 Casey Hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 Chronic Hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 Complete Garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 Discount Hydroponics 752 Waverley Road, Chadstone Vic 3148 Echuca Hydroponic Nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 Echuca Pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 Excel Distributors Pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 F.L.O.W. Plants and Environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 Gardensmart 810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 Global Hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 Greenleaf Hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844 Greenleaf Hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 GreenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 Grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 Grow-Tek Hydroponics 141 Military Road, Avondale Heights Vic 3034 Holland Forge Pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 Hyalite Bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 Hyalite Centreway 42 Wingarra Ave, Keilor Vic 3036 Hyalite Global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 Hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 Indoor Garden Company 29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 Impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 Jackson Cellars Cnr Bailey & McLeod Sts., Bairnsdale Vic 3875 JB Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 Just Hydroponics Factory 11 29/39 westwood Drive, Deer Park Vic 3023 Latrove Valley Home Brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 Melton Hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 Midtown Hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 Mirror Brand 110 Dynon Road, South Kensington Vic 3031 One Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 Pam’s Home Brew & Hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 Palms & Plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 Shepparton Hydroponics 87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 Simply Hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd.,Hoppers Cros. 3029 Sunlite Hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281

(03) 5996 3697 (03) 9796 3776 (03) 9646 8133 (03) 9311 9776 (03) 9568 1860 (03) 5480 2036 (03) 5480 7080 (03) 9495 0083 (03) 9510 6832 (03) 9769 1411 (03) 9356 9400 (03) 5176 0898 (03) 9739 7311 (03) 9870 8566 (03) 9435 6425

(03) 9764 1372 (03) 9720 1946 (03) 9331 5452 (03) 9356 9400 (03) 9311 3510 (03) 9416 1699 (08) 8250-1515 (03) 5152 1366 (03) 9569 4399 (03) 8390 0861 (03) 5133 9140 (03) 9314 0055 (03) 9746 9256 (03) 5339 1300 (03) 9376 0447 (03) 9800 2177 (03) 5143 1143 (08) 8285 7575 (03) 5831 6433 (03) 9360 9344

Sunray Hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 Supply Net International P/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 The Hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 Waterworks Hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 WESTERN AUSTRALIA Accent Hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 Aqua Post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 Aquaponics Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 Creative Hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 Great Southern Hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road, Bunbury WA 6230 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd.,Maddington WA 6109 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 Greenlite Hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 Growsmart Hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 Hydro Nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 Hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 Isabella’s Hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Johnson’s Nursery Garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 Neerabup Organic & Hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 One Stop Hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 Perth Hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 Southwest Hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 The Grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 The Highlife Co. 303 Rokeby Road, Subiaco WA 6008 The Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 The Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 The Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 Water Garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017

(03) 5023 6422 (88) 264-3600 (03) 9761 0662 (03) 9465 1455

(08) 9375 9355 (08) 9354 2888 1800 640 222 (08) 9528 1310 (08) 9721 8322 (08) 9452 0546 (08) 9274 8388 (08) 9345 5321 (08) 9841 3220 (08) 9336 7368 (08) 9248 1901 (08) 9206 0188 (08) 9371 5757 (08) 9306 3028 (08) 9921 6016 (08) 9404 7155 (08) 9471 7000 (08) 9478 1211 (08) 9534 8544 (08) 9356 7044 (08) 9217 4400 (08) 9473 1473 (08) 9495 1495 (08) 9274 3232 (08) 9443 7993

ARE YOU CURRENTLY DISTRIBUTING MAXIMUM YIELD FROM YOUR RETAIL STORE? If so, pass along your contact information to us here at the magazine care of: ilona@maximumyield.com and we will add your store’s name, address and telephone number to our distributor listing in an upcoming issue.

(03) 5222 6730

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

45

COMING UP IN DO YOU march-april 2010

know?

is the reverse of resistivity and is 1 Conductivity determined by the voltage and current values according to Ohm’s law.

2 Because many soil-based organic fertilizers are

not fully mineralized, adding them to a hydroponic system in large quantities can have rapid and unpleasant results.

CALIBRATION MAINTENANCE PURCHASING In part II of his conductivity review, Andrew Taylor discusses the use of EC metres for controlling nutrient concentration, how to calibrate them and what to look for when purchasing one.

Expert advice, latest news, your letters, little known facts, web exclusives, contests and more.

3 Many plants are self-pollinating; the male portion

of the blossom grows into contact with the female portion. This is a process that can occur even when the blossom is closed.

suck away chlorophyll and dehydrate 4 Mendomites plants, making them much weaker and more susceptible to disease. should allow for about 4500 BTUs of cooling for 5 One every 600 to 1000 watts of light. The exact BTU rating required is somewhat dependent on how well the room is insulated; if the ballasts are in the room or not; if air cooled lighting is being used; as well as if a gas fired CO2 generator will be.

www.maximumyield.com

6 For delicate clones, 18 hours of uninterrupted

available for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across Australia and on maximumyield.com. Subscriptions are available by contacting editor@maximumyield.com or visiting maximumyield.com/subscriptions.php

a retro fit lamp you must marry up a metal 7 Without halide lamp with a metal halide ballast and vice

I N D O O R

46

G A R D E N I N G

MAXIMUM YIELD Australia - January/February 2010

light and six hours of uninterrupted darkness is recommended.

versa, high pressure sodium lamps with a high pressure sodium ballast.

MY