UK July - August 2009
FREE
6
th
Annual
San Francisco
Indoor Gardening Expo
July 25th & 26th, 2009
www.indoorgardenexpo.com
CONTENTS july / august 2009 FEATURES 16
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Growing Miracle Fruit: The Magic Berry
20
Grow Your Own: A Dutch Perspective Part III
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How to Create a Biointensive Garden
28
Come Clone With Us
31
Aero Gardening
by Mark Prescott
by Hans Kersbergen
by Arlene Wright Correll
by Kevin Dunlop
by Rita Harris
28
32
Wasabi Japonica
36
Grow Your Own Fresh Air
38
How to Produce Seedlings: The Nine Steps to Success
41
Growing Food from Scraps
by Noucetta Kehdi
by Emma Cooper
by Bob Taylor
by Bonnie Burton
DEPARTMENTS 4 From the Editor 4 Letters to the Editor 6 MaximumYield.com
32
8 Ask Erik 10 MAX Facts 12 Product Spotlight 43 Do You Know?
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46 Check Your Growing IQ 47 Coming up in September-October MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
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FROM THE editor
jessica raymond
Welcome to the summer issue of Maximum Yield UK. Many of you will be taking your crops outdoors, but there will still be a lot of growers choosing to maximize their controlled growing environment indoors. Either way, we have an issue packed full of great tips and ideas to bring you the biggest crops ever! Projects utilizing hydroponic technology are sweeping the UK, offering jobs to hundreds, providing food to thousands and creating healthful indoor environments for hospital patients. These and other inspiring projects and discoveries are elaborated upon in this month’s Max Fact section. This issue also features new writer Kevin Dunlop, a retired Hampshire horticultural and agricultural journalist, contributing his expertise on the area of cloning while Mark Prescott and Noucetta Kehdi introduce viable, commercial, hydroponic crops: Miracle Fruit and Wasabi Japonica. In order to keep our industry connected and informed, Maximum Yield is introducing a variety of tools to help you do just that. Our Facebook page introduces hot topics
of debate, giving you a chance to have a voice on the areas of our industry that matter the most to you; Maximum Yield’s all-new E-News keeps you in the know on the latest industry news, contests, events, products and more. To become a fan or sign up for our E-News, visit www. maximumyield.com Maximum Yield will soon be featuring a new regular column titled “Your Best Advice.” We want you to share what you know and the gardening techniques that you have found to be successful. Send your tips to editor@maximumyield. com and stayed tuned to what others find helpful in producing a healthy garden. Your advice will be printed in an upcoming issue of Maximum Yield. I look forward to hearing from you with your questions and “Your Best Advice.”
Algae Cloaked as Pythium?
Sweet Success
letters to the editor
After reading your “Ask Erik” letter in the 2009 January/February issue of Maximum Yield UK I feel I can help the reader’s situation. I have faced an identical situation, and also replaced all of my system’s plumbing only to have the problem return multiple times. I brought my problem to an indoor gardening store and they believed the symptoms sounded like algae. Algae causes a slippery/slimy coating, depending on the severity, on anything submerged in your system’s water. Algae is caused directly or indirectly by HID lighting. Any HID light coming into contact with untreated water will create algae. The same will happen to nutrients exposed to HIDs. If your growing medium has algae growing on the top of it, top watering with untreated water will contaminate your system as well. After about two years of complete frustration, I finally found a combination of products that prevent outbreaks and cure the problem. In a 123 litre system I add 568 millilitres of three per cent hydrogen peroxide, nearly twice the recommended dose; 85 millilitres of algae reducer, which contains beneficial bacteria; and 45 grams of pond dye. When algae is present, fungus gnats may appear as well, which leads many to believe their plants are wilting due to the gnats. If fungus gnats are present, use sticky strips for the adults and a mild fungicide for the larvae, which is added directly to your reservoir. This combination of products has enabled me to grow practically trouble free. Happy growing. Paul Foster 4
MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
I’m new to hydroponics and I was wondering if there any articles on using honey in hydroponics? Can honey be used simply as is, dissolved in warm water then introduced to a system? What are the benefits of using honey as one of hundreds of additive choices? Thanks Rexenne In this issue of Maximum Yield UK, a similar question is answered in our “Ask Erik” column. Erik Biksa goes into detail on the beneficial components of honey, and what to expect when using it in hydroponics. You can access past “Ask Erik” columns by visiting www.maximumyield.com
Crazy for Compost
I am interested in making compost tea at home. Can you tell me how I might go about this? Is there a recipe I can follow? Grace Phillips Compost and compost tea is a popular topic of interest as of late, as gardeners are looking for eco-friendly ways to feed their plants while still maintaining a high yield and healthy crops. For a quick and easy compost tea recipe, simply follow this link: http://www. maximumyield.com/articles/extras/USA/MY_OE_10_08_compost_ tea.pdf. Additionally, browsing our article archive on www. maximumyield.com will produce a variety of articles on making and using compost tea. Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.
WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com
I N D O O R
WHAT’S NEW
IN THE NEWS
If undeliverable please return to the address above.
Celebrate with Hydro for Hunger, a not-for-profit dedicated to raising awareness about global food shortages, as they announce the total of their fundraising efforts for the first quarter of 2009. Also read about the first solar powered irrigation system and a biocontrol for thrips.
2009 Indoor Gardening Expo Tour
Join us on Facebook This month on Facebook we bring you hard-hitting discussions on the topics that are making news in our industry. We want to hear your opinion, so make sure to become a fan and let us know what you think.
VIDEOS & FEATURES Featured Products Lighting may be one of the most important tools in your indoor grow room, so this month we feature a variety of ballasts and reflectors including the Sunburst Convertible Ballast, Lumatek’s Dual E-Ballast and sealed Xtreme Reflectors from C.A.P.
Featured Articles From humic acids to CO2, this month’s featured articles tackle the hot topics in our industry right now. Learn how to detect superior grades of humic acid and discover the levels of CO2 that are optimal for your growing environment.
ONLINE EXTRAS Growing Miracle Fruit - the Magic Berry The history of Miracle Fruit dates back to 1725. This online extra provides an in-depth look at that history and its uses with West Africa tribes.
Wasabi japonica Wild for wasabi? We have tons of tasty wasabi recipes that are sure to add spice to any palette.
Come Clone with Us Have a little fun with cloning. Bone up on your knowledge of cloning terms in this months’ Cloning Crossword.
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Hans Kersbergen co-owns BAC and ran a hydroponic retail shop for six years. He now conducts “How to Grow” seminars in conjunction with BAC’s products. After five successful years, BAC products are available in Holland, Spain, Germany, Portugal and the UK.
Noucetta Kehdi is the co-founder and administrator of General Hydroponics in Europe. Noucetta got involved in hydroponics in the early 1990’s and in 1996 she moved to the southwest of France where she took care of a greenhouse educating herself on all things hydroponics.
Bob Taylor is the chief chemist of Flairform (www.flairform.com) - an Australian based manufacturing company. Bob was an approved NATA signatory and an official registered analyst for the government’s chemical analysis monitoring program of all fertilizers registered in Western Australia.
Mark Prescott is the owner of Black
MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092 PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores
Growers around the world are gearing up for the biggest show of the year, the 6th Annual “Growing our World Green” San Francisco Expo (July 25-26). Also, stay tuned for details on the “Greener Places, Sustainable Spaces” Expo in Orlando (November 7-8). Visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com for more information.
contributors
G A R D E N I N G
VOLUME 9 – NUMBER 2 July/August 2009 Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher.
River Nursery LLC., a wholesale nursery company that opened in 1992. Mark has worked in the lawn and garden industry for 35 years, growing up in a family-run garden centre and eventually moving on to own his wholesale operation.
BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Keri Hendry - keri@maximumyield.com Julie Madden - julie@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Pentti Tikkanen - pentti@maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS + BWGS West + BWGS East General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply Tradewinds AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Dome Garden Supply Futchatec Growth Technology Holland Forge Hydraspher
Kevin Dunlop was born in Hampshire, England and has been involved in horticultural and agricultural journalism for many years. Now retired, with a keen interest in hydroponics and its future, he is well placed to write articles for growers, creating interest and providing valuable knowledge.
Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK and Australia. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.
ASK
erik
Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to editor@maximumyield.com with the words “Ask Erik” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.
I have a question regarding using honey to give plants a good supply of carbon. Because honey contains sugar, could it be used in sugar water and sprayed onto the plants? I’m just wondering because I am a beekeeper so I have plenty of it. Cheers mates! Thanks from a cold Sweden Dante - A guardian of plants
Honey contains glucose, fructose and sucrose. The chemical composition of these sugars contains carbon. There may also be other beneficial substances in honey, particularly if unpasteurized. It would seem honey is a source of readily available bio-energy. The qualities of the honey will naturally vary from the sources of the pollen collected. Triacontanol, a naturally occurring substance in beeswax and alfalfa extracts has some hormonal-like properties to plants. Some research demonstrates increased yields and essential oil production in crops that receive some levels of triacontanol during the growth of the crop. The difference between attempting to supplement your crop with carbon and sugars from home sources versus manufactured products is often consistency. When you buy a manufactured supplement, it is typically the same from batch to batch. Also provided are specific instructions as to how and when to apply the product, and most importantly, at what dosage. This way you are using a product that is proven for your application, and can help to give you consistent results from application to application and from crop to crop. You may have to do some experimentation as to how much to use, and when the best time to apply it is. Determining if it is suitable in hydroponics or soil only will also require some trial and error. If you go ahead with it, I would recommend giving a few different test plants different dosage rates, and perhaps replicate the dosage on another set of plants but vary the times that you added the honey. Keep your eye out for any potential increased insect attraction to your honey-sweetened growing system and plants.
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MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
I have had organic soil growers report adding small amounts of honey to their waterings in the final phase of cropping, during the flush period. They felt that it helped improve the taste of the material harvested. Well, that’s the buzz… Cheers, Erik Biksa
MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia from around the world
England’s Finest Gardens and Chelsea Flower Show Tour 2009 The 2009 England’s Finest Gardens and Chelsea Flower Show Tour held May 19 to the 27, was a very special show. For years the tour has been a highlight amongst Britain’s gardening enthusiasts, serving to inspire and celebrate gardening in all of its extravagant colours and scents. Hosted since 1998 by Donna Dawson, owner of IcanGarden.com, the event featured exceptional guests and exhibits, as well as the latest gardening trends and the newest and the most desirable gardening products in the industry. This show was truly enjoyed by its attendants. Special features included the RHS Wisley Garden with its brand new, state of the art Glasshouse. As well, one of Britain’s greatest ornamental gardens, Savill Garden, was a big hit with attendees. (Source: www.gardeningtours.com)
Calcium Helps Plants Make Their Own Aspirin According to new studies, calcium builds healthy plants by binding to the protein calmodulin. Calmodulin prompts plants to make salicylic acid (SA), a close relative of Aspirin, when threatened. In plants, calcium directs incoming information, helping the plant respond to dangers by forming a barrier that keeps the pathogen from invading deeper into the plant. SA also activates the plant’s immunity, protecting the plant from further pathogen attacks. However, a rise in SA levels also causes the plant to slow its growth, setting up a challenging situation for the plant and the grower. The answer to this balance is the interaction between calcium/calmodulin and a protein called AtSR1, which suppresses the production of salicylic acid. Plants that have extra AtSR1 make almost no SA. They grow larger and faster than a normal plant, but easily succumb to infection. Plants that lack the gene for AtSR1 develop high levels of SA are nearly impervious to infection, but small in size.
Vertical Gardens to Relax Cancer Patients A vertical garden utilizing hydroponic technologies may be just the tool needed at the Royal Hospital in Gloucestershire to relax its patients. The project is part of a planned extension to the Edward Jenner Day Unit, which will cost approximately £400,000. The project’s planned sponsor is the Leukaemia and Intensive Chemotherapy Fund (Linc). The purpose of this vertical garden is to relax the chemotherapy patients and give them something green and soothing to look at. The green wall would be built behind a glass screen using a framed support and hydroponics. (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/gloucestershire/7891419.stm)
Giant Kent Glasshouses Home to 1.3 Million Plants A total of seven glasshouses 140 metres in length are being built as part of Britain’s biggest greenhouse development – Thanet Earth, meant to increase the UK’s salad vegetable crops by 15 per cent. Each greenhouse, fed by its own reservoir and powered by seven power generating stations, will produce approximately 1.3 million plants on the Isle of Thanet in Kent. Cucumber, pepper and tomato crops will be suspended from the eight metre ceiling in huge hydroponic rows, and picked continuously 52 weeks of the year. Quite common in the Netherlands and elsewhere, this type of industrial agriculture has never been attempted on this scale in the UK. However, increasing demands for local vegetables all year from British consumers are increasing, and from this the plan for Thanet Earth was born. The project is set to be complete in August of 2010, and will provide around 550 jobs for local residents. The first Thanet Earth products will appear on supermarket shelves from October, 2010. (Source: www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2008/jun/11/greenbuilding.food)
(Source: Washington State University. "In Fight Against Pathogens, Calcium Helps Plants Make Their Own Aspirin." ScienceDaily 11 January 2009. 27 January 2009 http://www.sciencedaily.com¬ /releases/2009/01/090106145544. htm)
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MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
Thanet Earth will cover about 91 hectares of land in Kent, producing approximately 1.3 million plants.
“Growing our World Green” 6th Annual San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo This July, San Francisco will be host to the biggest Indoor Gardening Expo of the year, the “Growing our World Green” 6th Annual San Francisco Expo (July 25-26, 2009). The excitement has been building all year for this highly-anticipated event. New advances in lighting, nutrients, organics, pest control and waterwise gardening will be just a few of the environmentally friendly gardening solutions showcased. There will also be an education station, tons of prizes and fun to be had by everyone. For all show information including special hotel rates and show exhibitors, visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com (Source: www.indoorgardenexpo.com)
Flairform Grower’s Guide Do you know the best way to clone your favourite plant? The Flairform Grower’s Guide can help you. Concise information on lighting, ventilation, pH, system design, diseases, pests, cloning, conductivity, nutrient technology and much more is available in the Flairform Grower’s Guide. Ask for a free copy at your local grow shop or download it for free at www.flairform.com Flairform - Water treatment specialists and horticultural consultants since 1966.
GM Maize Offers Vitamin Boost European researchers have created genetically modified (GM) maize fortified with beta carotene, and precursors of vitamin C and folic acid. This is the first time a plant has been engineered to make more than one vitamin. The researchers see this as an opportunity to improve the diets of those in poorer nations. Those in poorer nations who rarely eat a balanced diet could subsist on the fortified corn, providing them with almost all of their daily recommended intake of vitamin A and folic acid, and 20 per cent of the ascorbate they need. Researchers are pushing to start field trials with initial trials to be held in the United States in 2010. (Source: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/ nature/8020925.stm)
MY MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
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PRODUCT spotlight
ask for these exciting new products at your favourite indoor gardening store.
ATA Coco Max A&B
Biogrow - Organic Plant Food from Biobizz
Coco Max A&B forms the foundation of fine growing results in steamed and unsteamed coco substrate. It is a professional and fast working nutrient that provides a stable and biological balance in the coco substrate. Coco Max A&B contains more calcium and more magnesium. This nutrient gives you a perfect start thanks to the automatic pH correction in your nutrient tank. Coco Max A&B are perfectly balanced for adding PK boost additives like the Bloombastic! • Lower concentration potassium allows growers to use PK additives at full dose, for maximum effects. • No ballast means more active ingredients and a more concentrated formula. • pH buffered means that Coco Max is easy to handle and use. Look for Coco Max at an indoor gardening store near you.
Biogrow is a 100 per cent certified organic plant food, produced with love in the Netherlands, which promotes lush growth during the vegetative cycle due to healthy levels of nitrogen, magnesium and calcium. When used during the flowering period in small doses, Biogrow acts as an organic plant tonic. Due to the high content of natural sugars in Biogrow, fruits and vegetables will have a greatly improved taste. Biogrow offers: • A high level of betains, ensuring active soil life. • Molasses derived from sugar beets, which is much higher in proteins and a feast for micro-organisms. • A more efficient uptake of micro- and macro-nutrients. • A pure blend of 100 per cent organic ingredients including natural vitamins (B1, B2, calcium and E) and up to 70 trace elements. • A low but natural pH level. To learn more about this or any other product in the OMRI listed Biobizz range, visit your local hydroponics retailer.
One Formula Per Stage Concept Technaflora’s Recipe for Success Starter Kit is ideal for both the new and experienced gardener alike. This unique starter kit contains 10 exceptional Recipe for Success products to ensure a consistent and balanced source of nutrition for plants. The products include: Rootech Cloning Gel seven grams, B.C Grow 500 millilitres, B.C Boost 500 millilitres, B.C Bloom 500 millilitres, Thrive Alive B-1 Red 125 millilitres, Thrive Alive B-1 Green 125 millilitres, Awesome Blossoms 125 millilitres, MagiCal 125 millilitres, SugarDaddy 250 millilitres and Root 66 250 millilitres. The kit also contains the easy to master RFS Mixing Chart, which is based on a one formula per stage concept, rather than a complex week-to-week program. With each purchase of the Recipe For Success Starter Kit, Technaflora will continue to donate $0.75 towards the Hydro For Hunger program in support of The Institute for Simplified Hydroponics (ISH). Visit your local indoor gardening store for more information.
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MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
Can-Filters Group Introduces Back-Draft Dampers and New, Improved Pre-Filters Can Filters Group (CFG) has added Back-Draft Dampers to our product line up. The CFG Back-Draft Dampers are available in six different sizes ranging from 10 centimetres to 35 centimetres. These newly developed Back-Draft Dampers are manufactured with quality components and precision engineering. The Back-Draft Damper is used to prevent air from reverse flowing through the fan (when powered off) allowing contaminated air to escape from the room untreated. CanFilters recommends the usage of Back-Draft Dampers as another line of defence against odour control. The pre-filter is the first line of defence against dust and debris from clogging the pores of the carbon itself. Replacement pre-filters extend the life of the CanFilter. Visit an indoor gardening store for more information on Back-Draft Dampers and all other Can-Filter products.
Specially Formulated Plant Energy Booster BioHeaven BioHeaven contains carefully selected biological stimulants such as amino acids, which are the basic building blocks for the proteins and enzymes essential to the structure and the metabolism of plants. As a result, BioHeaven enhances utilization and translocation of nutrients in fertilizer blends and foliars; boosts up the antioxidant system of the plant; rids the plant of toxins built up during periods of stress; repairs chlorophyll; and re-stimulates the plant. The L-amino acids used by BioBizz for BioHeaven are extracted from soybean cake and other organic protein sources via enzymatic hydrolysis and fermentation, a process that ensures the amino acids are absorbed and used by plants. BioHeaven contains natural aged humus, one of the most versatile components in soil environments. This component, in combination with other operative substances in BioHeaven, increases the quantity of minerals in the soil. Normally, the percentage of mineral uptake lies around the five to 10 per cent; the substances within BioHeaven can raise it up to 95 per cent. BioHeaven is now available at indoor gardening stores.
Hydro-Logic’s KDF85 Filter now with Upgraded Medical Grade Carbon Hydro-Logic’s KDF85 filters now use medical grade catalytic granular activated carbon, an ultra premium grade of carbon that reduces chloramines to the lowest industry standard levels. Steam activated, the carbon provides a strong, dense product with an extremely high surface area. It is specially acid washed, pH buffered and rinsed with sanitized water, making it superior to ordinary grades and minimizing the possibility of metal contaminants. The KDF85 totally eliminates chlorine and helps reduce iron and hydrogen sulphide and is perfect for city and well water users. These filters last twice as long as the standard carbon filters and are available in three sizes to fit most of our purification systems – 25 centimetres for the Stealth-RO and Small Boy and 50 centimetres for the Tall Boy and Tall Blue. We also offer an upgrade for the newest addition to the family, the Big Boy. Trust only the best filters available for your prized plants. Trust Hydro-Logic to provide the purest water for your garden. Contact an indoor gardening retail store for more information. MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
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PRODUCT spotlight
ask for these exciting new products at your favourite indoor gardening store.
Sure To Grow Launches New Biodegradable Cloner Insert To meet the demand for eco-friendly products, STG has developed a five centimetre diameter Cloner puck made from Tencel. Tencel is a cellulose fibre made from trees and is in-soil degradable. The STG Cloner puck is designed to be a seamless replacement for current neoprene products. Unlike neoprene, the STG puck goes from the cloner to the next stage of growth with no additional transplant needed. This not only reduces the occurrence of transplant shock, but also saves growers a lot of time. Truly two great value added benefits. The STG Cloner puck fits the most common size clone systems like EZ Cloner, Botanicare, Power Cloner, Clone Machine and can also be used in conjunction with STG’s new line of inserts for net pots and buckets. To learn more about this product line, visit your local indoor gardening retailer.
New LEDGrowLight from LGL Technologies Nearly 50 per cent more effective than our previous red LED light, the new R220SB combines a more efficient LED with a state of the art driver, and uses only 10 watts of energy. It has 220 LEDs and works on an 85 to 260 volt current for use anywhere in the world. The simple screw in Edison base found on all our lights make them ideal for custom applications. Our lights produce so little heat they do not need internal fans to cool them and will easily last for more than 50,000 hours. We guarantee this new LED light to outperform any other LED light with savings in electrical costs over traditional HID systems. Your customers will save between three to 12 times the cost of the system over five years of commercial use. The R220SB combines high efficiency and increased brightness with optimal colour output, resulting in the most advanced and effective design available anywhere. For more information, visit your hydroponics retailer. 14
MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
Can-Filters Group Introduces All-New Flanges
Can-Filters Group has added a true 10 centimetre flange and a 35 centimetre flange to our line up of flanges. The new 10 centimetre flange is designed to match up the Original Can-Filter 33 with a Can-Fan 10 centimetre. The 35 centimetre flange is manufactured to combo up the Can 150 with a Max Fan 35 centimetre. Both flanges are constructed out of steel for ultimate strength and durability. The full line up consists of flanges in 10, 12, 15, 20, 25, 30 and 35 centimetre sizes. Visit your local hydroponics store to learn more.
Osram Sylvania Introduces Wide Spectrum T8 Fluorescent Lamps Sylvania’s Octron® T8 wide spectrum fluorescent lamps provide essential energy for use in indoor gardening applications. These lamps provide the types of light that are most beneficial for plants’ essential processes. Sylvania lamps provide the right balance of red and blue wavelengths. In fact, the Sylvania T8 Gro-lux wide spectrum lamp produces 10 per cent more Photosynthetically Active Radiation (uMoles/m2s) versus the equivalent T12 Gro-lux wide spectrum light source. These lamps bring out the vibrant natural colours of foliage, flowers and vegetables, enhancing their appearance. The lamps operate on Quicktronic® QHE high efficiency electronic ballasts with maximum efficacy and high lumen output, while providing 30 to 60 per cent energy savings when compared to F40T12 magnetic systems. The systems are available with low, normal and high ballast factors which produce a wide variety of light outputs for any applications such as warehouses or lower ceilings. The system is covered by the Quick 60+® warranty, the first and most comprehensive warranty in the industry. Visit an indoor gardening retailer for more information.
Flairform’s TopFert and TopWet Wetting Agent TopFert is a foliar fertilizer containing both inorganic nutrients and marine extracts. • formulated for rapid leaf uptake • use from seedling through to harvest • super concentrated: use at one to two teaspoons per litre • use with Flairform’s TopWet to maximize leaf penetration and surface coverage Using TopWet with foliar sprays (e.g. fertilizer, fungicide, pesticide) helps increase their effectiveness by maximizing surface coverage and penetration of leaves and stems. • Hygroscopic formulation: Prolongs the period over which ‘stomata’ can absorb. • Super concentrated: One to two teaspoons per litre. More information is available at indoor gardening retail stores.
Hydro-Logic Goes Green Hydro-Logic is proud to announce all of our carbon filters will be upgraded to a new green certified coconut carbon filter. Starting immediately, the Small Boy, Tall Boy and Tall Blue units will have the new filters included as standard. All of our systems, including the Stealth-RO and Merlin-Garden Pro, will have these available exclusively as replacements. The new Green Carbon Filters use coconut shells from India and are manufactured with a revolutionary process that carbonizes the shells in a closed combustion chamber. The methane, CO2 and other greenhouse gases that are produced are either scrubbed or re-used by the facility for power. There are zero greenhouse gas emissions from this method as opposed to the traditional “open pit” method that releases these dangerous gases directly into the atmosphere. As an added bonus, the carbon is much higher quality and able to absorb chlorine and volatile organic compounds better than comparable filters. All this and the price remains the same as the standard filters. At Hydro-Logic we strive to make a positive impact on the earth. Pure water’s not magic - it’s logic. Visit your local hydroponics retailer to learn more. MY MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
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Growing Miracle Fruit - the Magic Berry
Synsepalum dulcificum
Miracle Fruit
by Mark Prescott
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MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
Like many people before me that have been lucky enough to discover the Miracle Fruit and luckier still to experience the effects of its berries, I was immediately fascinated and determined to try and grow it myself. While on an expedition to West Africa in 1725, a French explorer named Reynaud Des Marchais noticed the natives consuming this small berry prior to every meal. The natives’ diets consisted of a bland array of sour soups and porridges, sour wine and fermented palm beer. Needless to say, it was not a very appealing menu for the palate. After trying the berry, Marchais discovered that their meals were transformed into a culinary delight, much to his surprise.
"Miracle Fruit helps cancer patients by removing the metallic taste symptom from chemotherapy treatments and hides the taste of bitter medicines." Despite the fact that Miracle Fruit was discovered 283 years ago, it is still relatively unheard of by the general public. Millions of dollars and countless hours have been spent by scientists and researchers to uncover and make a commercially viable product from the unique qualities of the miracle berry as a sugar substitute. In the late 1960s a man named Robert Harvey started the process to commercialize Maraculin (the active ingredient in Miracle Fruit berries) as a sugar substitute, which was met with disaster when the FDA classified it as a food additive and denied its approval. When taste tests were done with popsicles treated with a coating of Maraculin the children far preferred those treated compared to the regular sugar popsicles proving that Maraculin is a flavour enhancer as well as a sugar substitute. It works best on foods with high acid contents like citrus, tomatoes, blueberries, strawberries and rhubarb to name a few. Miracle Fruit also makes many foods more palatable like unsweetened and semi-sweet chocolate. It makes stout beer taste like a milkshake and goat cheese tastes like cream cheese frosting. In Japan there are stores selling the berry with low calorie, sugar free deserts for people dieting and for diabetics. Miracle Fruit also helps cancer patients by removing the metallic taste symptom from chemotherapy treatments and hides the taste of bitter medicines. Extensive testing has been done with the berry on animals and humans and it has been found to be absolutely safe for consumption. Even though the compound Maraculin failed to get FDA approval, the FDA has no jurisdictions on growing and eating the berries of the Miracle Fruit plant. Growing the Miracle Fruit can be a little challenging as it has a few particular requirements. Miracle Fruit requires very acidic soil with a pH ranging from 4.5 to 5.8 and warm moist roots with high oxygen levels to avoid disease. It can also be a painfully slow growing plant with the first berries taking as long as three years to produce. It does not require much light and I have found that a T5 high output fluorescent is more than adequate. A well-lit window will also work fine as long as it is out of the direct sun and does not get to cool. Miracle Fruit is an understory tropical so it is used to partial shade; direct sun will burn it unless you are in the South and the plant is outside and accustomed to those light levels. Putting your Miracle Fruit plant on a sunny patio after growing it indoors all winter will surely lead to a burned plant and most likely kill it. Miracle Fruit can be grown from cuttings or seed; I have had success from both methods. The seedlings in the photos are 115 days old and some are already almost 18 centimetres high. Seeds are highly perishable and lose viability quickly. Sow seeds as soon as you receive them or as soon as the berries are consumed. In everything I have read about the MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
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Growing Miracle Fruit
Miracle Fruit flowering.
"High humidity when plants are fruiting keeps the new berries from drying up and falling off."
seeds the consensus is that the germination rate is about 24 per cent. I have had better luck with about 85 per cent germination. The fresher the seed is the better the germination rate will be. I grow my plants in a heated growing container that keeps the soil warm to mimic the natural conditions of the plant and a T5 grow light on a 14 hour cycle. The first mistake I made in growing the seeds was not covering them with a bag to keep the humidity high. As my seedlings were sprouting, the first leaf tips would burn off from the dry air. After I realized this and covered the pot to keep the humidity higher, the plants leafed out fine.You will notice that the centre plants are larger because they germinated after the bag was placed on the pot. The smaller seedlings were the first to sprout and burned off before I got the cover on. I think they will all be fine, and as you see, have sent new shoots up. Older plants do not need as much humidity as the seedlings but will benefit from 60 per cent to 70 per cent, which is the ideal range. High humidity when plants are fruiting also keeps the new berries from drying up and falling off. The small tree you see in the photo is about two years old and has 60 to 70 sprouts on it. I have found that diluted consistent feedings with a soluble fertilizer every time you water is the best method for feeding this plant. I have been using the same fertilizer for the adult plant and seedlings. Generally speaking you should have a fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potash. I used a high nitrogen acid soluble fertilizer when I first received my older plant because it had almost no foliage on it. Also, I wanted to bush it out a bit and then changed to lower nitrogen to get it to flower. I believe that Miracle Fruit will grow in hydroponic systems but I don’t think that would be 18
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"A mature plant can produce a thousand berries during the year so the plants can be quite productive." the best choice for growing it. Due to the fact that the plant is slow growing it would have to be in the system for a long time before you got your first harvest and I think it would just be too much work. For seeds or cuttings, a small hydro system would probably work great, getting them to a reasonable size for transplanting into a pot. I am sure that a cloning machine would also work fine for starting cuttings. Another item that would work well in our industry would be an un-vented grow tent if used with a T5 and some bottom heat. The T5 would not build up that much heat and the humidity would be kept at high levels keeping the plant happy. I use a 50/50 mix of commercial growing medium with straight peat for increasing the acidity. Other commercially available soils like an azalea or blueberry mix would also work well. Miracle Fruit does not like to dry out so be careful not to let that happen. The Miracle Fruit plant will flower and produce berries three to four times a year. A mature plant can produce a thousand berries during the year so the plants can be quite productive. They start to produce berries when they are 30 centimetres high (two to three years from seed). I have one older plant giving me fruit now and 17 seedlings that I will grow out. I would like to have four to five mature plants ensuring a steady supply of fruit. Growing this plant yourself makes using it cost effective; the berries sell for £2 to £4 apiece and have to be express mailed. There are recipes now for low calorie deserts and beverages just for Miracle Fruit and as time goes on, I’m sure many more uses and recipes will emerge to take advantage of this interesting fruit. Have fun with this plant; it makes for great conversation and has very real potential health benefits in our every day diets. If that’s not enough reason to grow it, you can host your own flavour party and just enjoy the looks on your friends’ faces when they bite into that lemon! MY An in-depth look a the history of Miracle Fruit and its uses with West African tribes can be found at www.maximumyield.com
Miracle Fruit seedlings.
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by Hans Kersbergen
Grow Your Own Part III
A Dutch Perspective
In parts one and two we discussed humidity and mastered climate control. For part three we will explain the importance of temperature, oxygen and light. During the growth phase, keeping a constant room temperature is of utmost importance. The temperature must remain the same regardless of whether the lamps are on or off. The formation of the roots, stems and leaves occurs in the summer for autumn blooming plants. The temperatures are fairly high throughout the day and even during the night. That high temperature serves as a signal to the plants that they must produce growth hormones, which is the desired reaction during the growth phase.
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“Measuring the leaf temperature is imperative as the temperature will clearly show whether or not the plant is functioning as it should.�
During the growth period the room temperature must remain a constant 24°C. In order to maintain these specific temperatures when the lamps are off, a heater must be installed. Measuring the leaf temperature is imperative as the temperature will clearly show whether or not the plant is functioning as it should. However, measuring the leaf temperature is a difficult process for most people, as they may not have the right metres. Those people who do have the proper metres may not know how to use it or exactly where the measurement needs to be taken. During the evaporation process the leaf temperature can drop two or three degrees, which means an average
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Grow Your Own Part III: A Dutch Perspective
During the growth phase the stems and leaves should be bathed in a grow lamp that is blue, the color of the sky during the summer months. When autumn comes, the color of the sky changes becoming more of a reddish-orange so a red bloom lamp is best. room temperature of 24°C will lead to a leaf temperature of approximately 21°C to 22°C, the ideal leaf temperature for these plants. Checking to make sure the temperatures in your room are perfect is as easy as looking at the leaf tips to see whether they are starting to curl. Perhaps they have already curled meaning the leaves can no longer cool themselves. Simply touching the leaves to test the temperature will determine if the leaves are too warm. During the bloom phase a room temperature of 28°C with the lamps on and 20°C with the lamps off is ideal. The average of these two temperatures is 24°C over a period of 24 hours. Essentially, the average room temperature should be 24°C in both the growth phase and the bloom phase. The temperature of the water for the plants should also remain fairly constant between 20°C and 22°C. Take a room temperature of 24°C and minus two to three degrees to compensate for the cooling power of the leaf. It is especially important that the water being absorbed by the roots has the right temperature. A temperature that is too high or too low may lead to problems down the road.
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When watering with water that is too cold, the roots cannot develop any pressure and thus, no water can be transported to the leaves. This may mean that the leaves start to curl because the leaves are unable to cool themselves and production comes to standstill. When the water is too warm, the root pump may experience some difficulties as warm water contains little oxygen and the roots need oxygen to make the root pump work. That is why it is so important to maintain a water temperature between 20°C and 22°C. It is a good idea to always have an oxygen pump or air stone in your water container to ensure that your water has as much oxygen as possible. (Oxygen has to be ground in the water and this is done by bacteria). Once you are certain you water has enough oxygen you can start adjusting the pH in your water container. The oxygen pump should be switched off and kept off as adding oxygen to the water raises the pH level, a reaction you don’t want to occur. The circulation pump is left on. That oxygen, (not CO²), that is very important for the roots, will be clear. This way, there is good root pressure enabling nutrients and coolant to be pushed up into the plant.
Your plants will also react to the colour of the lighting. During the growth phase the stems and leaves should be bathed in a grow lamp that is blue, the colour of the sky during the summer months. When autumn comes, the colour of the sky changes becoming more of a reddish-orange so a red bloom lamp is best. The plant will interpret this as a sign to start producing the bloom hormone. The blue light ensures that the plants stay much denser and do not become too tall and the reddishorange light will assist with growth. MY If you missed the first two parts of Grow Your Own visit maximumyield.com
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How to Create a Biointensive Garden by Arlene Wright Correll
Exactly what is a biointensive garden? According to the encyclopedia it is a method of an organic agricultural system, which focuses on maximum yields from the minimum area of land while simultaneously improving the soil. The ultimate goal of this method is long-term sustainability on a closed system basis and a closed system is a totally isolated system. Though it rarely works on a large farm it has been used successfully on small commercial farms. A biointensive garden allows you to grow organic food thus allowing you to eat well, get healthy, reduce global warming and change the world right in your own backyard! Sustainable mini-farming basically will conserve the soil, give you high yields, conserve resources and can be applied by anyone to their own garden plot. A biointensive gardener uses heirloom seeds that are untreated and open-pollinated. Using raised beds is a must and they must have about two feet of soil in
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them in order to use the “double dug” method. This organic biointensive garden must be a closed system, which means no outside or off-farm fertilizers, manures or other additives, should be brought into this garden or mini-farm. These types of gardens are usually half planted with carbon crops such as millet, wheat and corn, which are important food sources for humans, but also produce plenty of high carbon scraps for your compost pile. High calorie root crops such as parsnips, potatoes and turnips will usually constitute another third of a biointensive garden simply because they are good winter keepers when stored properly and will give you a large amount of calories in a relatively small space. The remainder of this biointensive garden will usually consist of several small beds of your ordinary garden vegetables such as tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, lettuce, squash and broccoli, which when planted closely spaced in compost-enriched, double dug beds will produce enough vitamins and minerals to sustain a person for a year. Biointensive gardeners ignore the spacing instructions on the seed packets because they know that seedling that are planted close to each other will keep the soil moist and prevent weeds from sprouting as they mature and their leaves touch. Composting is the key to replenishing the soil so you must maintain a healthy compost pile, which will take a lot of your millet, corn and wheat high carbon leavings. Biointensive gardeners practice companion planting, which means that tall corn shades cucumbers and green beans aid strawberries and that fast growing radishes do very well when, planted next to slow growing carrots. A biointensive gardener “counts” calories; not the kind to reduce weight, but the kind needed for human consumption to stay alive and that means the gardener will grow a year’s supply of food for each person focusing on high-calorie, space efficient vegetables such as potatoes and parsnips. This same gardener will only use open pollinated seeds because he or she knows that special hybrid seeds are not needed in health soil. Also this type of seed preserves genetic diversity. This whole program works, giving you the highest yields in the smallest space, only if you use the whole method. As the world grows larger, budgets become smaller, fuel becomes scarcer, droughts become more prevalent, creating a biointensive garden is the smart thing to do. Excerpted from Helium at www.helium.com/items/908269exactly-biointensive-garden-according MY
Come Clone with Us by Kevin Dunlop
The best way to make sure the genetic qualities of a mother plant are reproduced is to make clones. Cloning is usually done within a propagator to ensure a higher humidity. However, in a humid environment like the UK, fungus and bacteria grow easier and faster on the substrate. Because I’m already in a high humidity area and my mother plant is in a room with an 18 hour lamp, I don’t need extra equipment.
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Necessary Equipment • quality nutrient solutions • rooting gel – it stops plants from wilting and has vitamin B1 in it • pair of sterilized, sharp scissors • cup of water at room temperature • cutting board • single edged razor blade or scalpel • pick to widen hole for rooting gel (a toothpick works well) • bacteria killer • day-night (min/max) thermometer • EC metre • pH test metre • growing media (I am using organic starter cubes, but you can also use organic plugs made from compressed peat for great results. Starter cubes and compressed plugs are ideal for soil growing, as they’re biodegradable. If growing in coir, try compressed plugs or starter cubes). Other equipment to consider is a heated propagator, a propagation light and, if you’re doing many clones, you may want to consider a grow tent cloning station, which is an all in one cutting table and propagation/mother plant tent. A mate of mine has got one of these inside his main growing tent and it keeps everything neat, tidy and sterile. Choose a mother plant that has proved itself to you, something that is sturdy and has vigorous growth.
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Come Clone with Us Preparations 1. Set up a table to work on. 2. Adjust the room temperature to 22 to 25°C. 3. Mix up your plant start nutrient to the strength recommended on the bottle.Your water temperature should be between 20 to 22°C. Adjust the pH to between 5.8 and 6.5.Your EC optimal range should be set to 0.7 to 1.0. (When your EC is too high, it will burn the clones causing disastrous results). 4. Soak the growing media cubes in the nutrient solution and place them on the table. 5. Make a good size hole to take the rooting gel. The hole should be enlarged so it is ready to take the gel. 6. Add the gel to the growing media making sure you have about a little fingernail amount in a hole so that it completely surrounds the stem. (Do not use a rooting hormone, as this will overload your clone). 7. Mark the date of cloning and the variety of plant on your tray. 8. Sterilize the scissors, the cutting block and the razor blade or scalpel thoroughly. Suggestion: Cut more clones than you need to ensure a good variety to choose from; it’s always better to have too many than too few! How to Clone 1. Select a stem from your designated mother plant and cut it off at a 45° angle if at all possible (figure 1 and figure 2). 2. Put the stem immediately into the cup of water. 3. Trim individual clones from the stem leaving at least three leaves on each clone and cut the stem into equal lengths (approximately 10 centimetres) using the cutting block. Make sure each cut is clean with no ragged bits; again try cutting the stem at a 45° angle if at all possible (figure 3). 4. Now, place the clones in the gel filled holes in the organic starter cubes. 5. Fill your tray or cloning system with your selected clones. 6. Spray your clones with water or a weak foliar feed that is rich in calcium. 7. When using a strong light (400 to 600 watts) to root clones, hang the light as high as possible (1.50+ metres above your trays). It’s preferable to use a softer light such as fluorescent tube lighting; if this is the case, place the light as close as possible to the clones. A cool white fluorescent lamp that is economical and gives off a low amount of heat will do the trick. 8. During the rooting phase, avoid direct air movement. (No direct ventilation on the clones). Maintenance Spray clones every day half way through the light cycle, so they are dry when the lights go out. If you live in a low humidity area you need to spray more often. Water the tray of cubes
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Figure 1. Select a stem from your designated mother plant.
Figure 2. Cut the stem off at a 45° angle.
Figure 3. Make sure each cut is clean with no ragged bits.
thoroughly every other day. Check day-night temperature; ideal rooting temperature is 20 to 25°C. Continue to do this until roots appear; this should take approximately 10 to 14 days. Once this is accomplished you are able to transplant the exact replicas of your mother plant into larger growing blocks or whichever system you are using and take them on to full maturity safe in the knowledge that your produce will be of good quality. MY Have a little fun with cloning and our cloning crossword on maximumyield.com
Aero Gardening
a sure way to indoor container gardening success by Rita Harris
Choosing to integrate aero gardening as part of your interior container gardening will provide you with a quicker and easier way of getting great results. Not only will your plants provide beauty, they will also create a healthier environment by purifying the air around them. You will also find gardening to be a relaxing and gratifying hobby.
If your indoor container gardening involves a non-traditional way of cultivating plants, aero gardening is a gardening system that will interest you. Aero gardening is a soil free growing method, which nurtures your plants with air, nutrients and water. Because the plants are kept in a very controlled environment and precisely fed with the right amount of nutrients, they grow at a faster rate. Plants are healthier, and contain a higher concentration of nutrients than those grown in soil. The growing time is shorter with a longer harvesting period. There are additional benefits to be had when using this type of indoor container gardening.Your garden can be left unattended for a period of as much as two weeks in case of travel. Aero gardening is an inexpensive system to operate. The system is designed for maximum power efficiency, using low energy lighting comparable to a 60 watt bulb. A built in microprocessor automatically adjusts nutrient delivery. Light and water cycles ensure that your plants are getting a perfect growing environment, removing any guesswork on the part of the gardener. This results in providing you with fresh vegetables or gorgeous flowers more quickly and for a longer period of time. Cooks love the constant supply of fresh herbs at their fingertips, helping them to prepare delicious meals. An extended harvest period of fresh vegetables is a cost saving benefit. Cherry tomatoes, for example, will be ready to harvest in about 10 weeks, and will grow for four months of continuous harvest. Great results will be provided by this method of aero indoor container gardening.
This system of indoor container gardening will successfully grow your favourite plants at a very low operating cost. With a continuous and extended period of harvesting nutritious vegetables, it will be soon become an important part of your home.You are sure to embark on a very satisfying venture when you choose aero gardening as your next project. MY Source http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rita_Harris
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Wasabi Japonica by Noucetta Kehdi
I came across wasabi japonica completely by chance. Wasabi is this green “mustard,” which is generally served in Japanese restaurants with sashimi and sushi. My husband William and I love sushi, and I am a real fanatic of gari (pickled ginger) and wasabi. Any time I travel, I always try at least one sushi bar. The best sushi bars I have found are on Vancouver Island, British Columbia in Canada and in San Francisco, California in the United States. Recently I had the opportunity to taste fresh, exquisite sushi from Tokyo. That is when I learned that the wasabi we were enjoying was just a mix of horseradish, mustard and food colouring! “What about the real thing?” I wondered. That’s when I decided to begin my research on the amazing plant, wasabi japonica. Wasabi is a very delicate plant, which traditionally grows wild in the mountains of Japan. It has been used since ancient times for its medicinal properties, especially its anti-bacterial action. It is also used as one of the main spices in the Japanese cuisine. Today it is still cultivated, mainly in the prefectures of Nagano, Iwate, Shimane and of course, in the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka prefecture. Due to an increasing demand worldwide, it is now also cultivated in Australia, New Zealand and on the Pacific Coast of the USA and Canada. Wasabi japonica is a slow growing, small (+/- 40 centimetres high) perennial from the Brassicaceae (cabbage) family, with heart-shaped, bright green leaves, long white stems and a thick (10 to 15 centimetres) long rhizome, which is the part most sought after. It blooms in the spring with very graceful little white flowers, and propagates either by seeds, or with offshoots that generally grow with the mother plant. Today some growers use micro-propagation, especially in Australia, and also in Japan. Wasabi has a very definite hot and sweet pungency to it, which makes it a unique spice. It owes this pungency to several isothiocyanates, a series of compounds that give it its
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taste as well as its therapeutic properties. On the plant’s level, isothiocyanates act as protectors, deterring pests and defending it against predators and disease. There are two kinds of wasabi - sawa-wasabi and hatakewasabi. Sawa-wasabi is grown in cool mountain streams, and hatake-wasabi grows in damp and shady fields. Connoisseurs would tell you that the better of the two is the sawa-wasabi, as it is hotter and tastier. To grow a healthy batch of wasabi, particularly the sawa-wasabi variety, an air temperature between 8°C and 20°C is ideal. Wasabi also prefers humidity in the summer. Sawa-wasabi needs to grow in pure cool water, at a temperature ideally between 13°C and 19°C. It needs shade and very little nutrients, with just the right mineral balance. As long as these conditions are met, and the roots remain in a welloxygenated, fresh flow of water, wasabi will be happy. Growing sawa-wasabi is a difficult job. Fields are built along mountain streams, generally located in deep misty valleys, where the water is diverted into a long line of narrow terraces. It takes 1.5 to two years to grow a mature rhizome. Fields are harvested and replanted chronologically, in order of maturity. When the mother reaches the proper size and the rhizome is ripe, the grower pulls it out and separates the rhizomes from the seedlings. Those same seedlings will be replanted in order for the next crop to emerge. It is very arduous to reach those fields, not to mention being bent in two everyday, with hands and feet in the cold water. A very small number of people are interested in doing this job, and today an increasing number of Japanese farmers are growing hatake-wasabi more quickly (in less than one year’s time) and easier to manage crops. If it wasn’t for some passionate growers - and the increasing demand for the
Wasabi Japonica growing in its natural habitat (right) and the bud of the Wasabi plant (above).
product - the traditional sawa-wasabi would have disappeared to the benefit of hatakewasabi, or it would be slowly replaced by the “wasabi” we know, the green mixture of horseradish, mustard and food colouring. Demand for the green paste is growing fast, as Japanese restaurants flourish all over the planet. Besides its culinary use, wasabi japonica is known as medicinal, especially for its ability to fight food intoxication. Nowadays researchers are discovering that it has several other medicinal properties. The same isothiocyanates that give it its pungency are the active principles that help cure quite an impressing list of diseases: • anti-cancer: mainly breast, prostate, colon, lung, leukaemia, pancreas, oesophagus and bladder • antioxidant • antibiotic: general infections, oral hygiene, cavity prevention and ulcers • anti-coagulant: blood thinning for circulation and prevention of strokes, treatment of atherosclerosis • anti-inflammatory: asthma, arthritis, allergies, anaphylaxis (aids in the healing process) • aids in bone calcification (fights/prevents osteoporosis) Due to its numerous qualities, and its economical value, more studies have been launched on its medicinal properties as well
as in other fields, including the cosmetic industry for instance, to fight skin disease. A New Zealand study growing waikato wasabi showed a yield of three tonnes per hectare of stems ready to export, with a total yield of 17 tonnes per hectare. The rest of the crop is totally processed in Japan, including small offshoots and leaves. Fresh wasabi is very highly priced in Japan and worldwide, and the demand is increasing so rapidly, that you can’t find as much of the product as is necessary. This is why the mixture of horseradish and mustard is so common. Wasabi japonica naturally was added to my list of qualifying plants for hydroponics cultivation as it is arduous to grow outdoors, has numerous medicinal and industrial applications, is increasing in demand worldwide and is a high value crop. I ordered fresh plants from Japan and upon reception, immediately planted them in a highly productive, flexible drip feed system and fed them with a three step feed of liquid concentrated nutrients. As I had little information about growing wasabi, I decided on an EC of 1.5 and a pH of 6.5. It was the summer of 2007 and it was quite hot in the south-west of France, the plants established themselves a little slow; however, they did get established and eventually started growing. On very hot days I could see they were slightly wilted and straining to survive. But MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
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A Wasabi farm with its crops planted in damp, shady fields (above). A familiar sight in asian markets, Wasabi ready for sale (left).
as soon as it was cooler, they would revive and resume growth. It was a pleasure to see the first leaves sprout, and eventually watch the whole plant develop. When I saw the first flowers I thought I had a victory, and although I noticed their growth was slightly strenuous, I still planned on the first crop for the end of 2008, or at least spring of the following year. Unfortunately I didn’t get the results I was hoping for. In the fall of 2008, my wasabi plants started to show signs of weakness. Then some damping off developed at the base of the stems and the plants looked miserable. After a few days I saw little dark worms crawling on them, damaging the rhizomes. I tried to save them by dipping all the remaining healthy plants into a barrel of water with an organic silicate power additive - water to drown the worms and the silicate powder to help fight the rot. But it was too late, and the plants were too weak at that time. In a few days the crop was lost. At that time I didn’t know the reasons for this failure. In November 2008 I had to travel to Japan, so I planned a visit to a wasabi operation. I was directed to the Izu Peninsula, the traditional region of wasabi growers. I visited the well-known Asada Masataka farm, growing Mazuma sawa-wasabi, the best variety there is. To get to the fields I had to walk uphill along a lively mountain stream with mud and water dripping everywhere. After a while, I discovered long rows of green terraces covered with wasabi plants at all stages of growth. I was shown how plants grow, what they need, the way they
are separated and replanted and the way they are managed. I was quite lucky to be introduced to the Masataka farm. In Japan, each farmer has his own secret for growing wasabi, which they are not about to reveal to the public, although you can now find grower’s advice all over the Internet. This visit was highly informative for me, and revealed the main reasons why my venture was totally unsuccessful. My climatic circumstances were far from being adequate. I grew wasabi in spite of all basic requirements and it is even a miracle I got as far as I did. In fact, it is partly because hydroponics offers a particularly well-adapted environment to wasabi, and the nutrients I used were pure, providing the perfect nutritive balance for this delicate crop. Upon my return, I was ready to experiment some more, now with the knowledge that the conditions pertinent to a successful grow was to keep the right water and air temperatures, and provide a balanced nutrition (low EC with no or very little calcium) to the plants. There is much more to it than that of course. I am eager to continue my tests until I have achieved total success. It has always been a pleasure to grow and experiment on plants and study their potential success in hydroponics. Nowadays, as demand is growing and economical interests are met, there are several successful hydroponics operations growing wasabi, mainly in Australia, New Zealand and on the Pacific Coast of North America. In today’s world, hydroponics offers numerous applications, and in the midst of this huge economical turmoil we are facing, it may open up much needed opportunities to any dedicated grower and entrepreneurial person. MY Wild for Wasabi? Download some tasty wasabi recipes at www.maximumyield.com
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Grow Your Own Fresh Air by Emma Cooper Most people these days have heard about the advantages of growing their own fresh fruit and vegetables, but did you know that you can grow your own fresh air too? Modern buildings use a lot of synthetic materials - both in the building itself and in the furnishings. These synthetic materials can release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air, including nasties such as formaldehyde, ammonia and benzene. And they’re not the only thing releasing toxins into our air - we do too! Humans release carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, hydrogen and methane as well as alcohols and ammonia. These are called bioeffluents, and when you add together synthetic materials, bioeffluents and poor ventilation (a common mix in many buildings) you’ve got a recipe for Sick Building Syndrome - a mixture of ailments including allergies, asthma and fatigue. The good news is that research done for NASA into how to create a breathable atmosphere for a lunar base has led to an understanding of how to use common houseplants to improve indoor air quality and prevent sick building syndrome. Rather than simply being passive and pretty, plants actively manage the environment around themselves, creating their own small ecosystem. They can increase humidity, create air movement, manage the microbes that live in the soil around their roots and emit phytochemicals into the air that prevent the build-up of bacteria and moulds that are harmful (to both them and us). When plants suck toxins out of the air and down into their root zone, the microbes in the soil remove them for us - they eat them! The best houseplants for cleaning the 36
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Ficus
air tend to come from tropical environments. To keep them filtering your air, you’ll need to keep them happy - raising the humidity by regular misting or by grouping plants together, and wiping dust off leaves with a damp cloth will do just that. Although any plant will have a positive effect on your air quality, tests have shown that some are better than others. One of the best is the Areca palm (also known as the yellow or butterfly palm), quite a large plant that is good in office environments. It loves humid environments and frequent watering. A good choice for a smaller room may be the Rubber plant, which needs feeding in summer but does not like too much water. For a sunnier position, try Ficus Alii, although it should be kept away from drafts. If space is at a premium, the Boston fern may be for you. It loves regular misting and
Rubber Plant
Palm
Fern
tepid water. And if you fancy something that flowers indoors, you can’t do better than the Peace lily, as long as you give it plenty of water and wash its leaves occasionally. There are many more plants that can be used to make a dramatic improvement in indoor air quality. If you want more information on this subject, read the excellent book, How to Grow Fresh Air by Dr. B. C. Wolverton, the scientist who originally carried out much of the research. About the Author Emma Cooper is the voice of the Alternative Kitchen Garden podcast and writes about kitchen gardening and environmental issues. An edible plant geek, she tries to grow her own food sustainably with the help of a reluctant husband and two pet chickens.Visit http://coopette.com for more information. MY MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
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How to Produce Seedlings
The Nine Steps to Success by Bob Taylor (Chemist for Flairform)
Compared to cuttings, seeds are relatively quick to plant and are less likely to carry pests and disease.
Collecting seeds As with cuttings, seeds should be collected from a plant that has been well maintained, has favourable characteristics (e.g. yield, visual appeal) and is free of disease. Seeds should be collected when mature. Seeds that are immature will not germinate when planted. Immature seeds are soft and generally paler in colour compared with mature seeds of the species. Seed storage It is important to note that a seed is living. To suppress germination but maintain the seed in a dormant state, storage 38
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conditions should be maintained as follows: - cool (2°C to 8°C) - dry conditions with limited oxygen supply – via screw topped glass jar - darkness Medium: The choice of growing medium is essential. It should provide high oxygen and water levels and good drainage. Disease: Sterilization of hardware and media before and during the propagation process is paramount. Maintaining adequate ventilation is also essential for minimizing the threat of disease outbreak.
Procedure Step 1 Thoroughly wash and sterilize all hardware and areas that are likely to contact seedlings and cause disease contamination. Step 2 To increase the success rate of seedlings, use a heat mat and propagation lid (vents closed) to maintain root and air temperature at 20°C to 25°C and relative humidity at 80 per cent (Figure 1). Note that cool conditions delay the germination of most seeds making them more susceptible to fungal attack. Step 3 Pre-soak medium with a highly pH buffered seedling nutrient. This ensures excess alkalinity is removed (lowers the pH) and the medium is bedded down. Allow medium to drain. Step 4 Option 1 It can be beneficial to pre-germinate seeds prior to planting in the medium. To do this, place them between moist tissues on a plate. Cover them with an up-turned plate (i.e. seeds must be kept in dark). Check every few days, ensuring that the tissue does not become dry and sprinkle with water as necessary. Once the root or radical becomes exposed, place upright (root pointing downwards) in medium 0.3 centimetres below the surface. Option 2 Sow seeds at a depth equal to 2½ times their diameter. Cover the seed with medium and gently tamp down.
Step 6 Remove the propagation lid once the first shoot appears (Figure 2a). Continued high humidity and poor ventilation will encourage fungal diseases. Step 7 Light is not required during the actual germination process. However, once the first shoot (‘plumule’) begins to appear the seedlings need good light to begin photosynthesizing and prevent the plumule from becoming spindly or etiolating. Use low intensity lighting for the first few weeks of growth. Preferably use cool white fluorescent lights and position 10 centimetres above the plants. Step 8 Gradually expose the seedlings to their proposed environment - depending on the plant variety this may take only a few days or many months. As such, begin to gradually increase light intensity and nutrient strength to EC 1.2mS. Ensure these changes are gradual as a sudden change might kill them. Step 9 Healthy seedlings grow quickly and it is essential to transplant them into a bigger system (or container) that provides adequate room for further root and shoot growth. Do this only after a minimum of two true leaves have formed (Figure 2b). If the seedling is left in its current position for too long the roots may grow long enough to become tangled.
Step 5 Immediately after planting, lightly re-water using water or dilute seedling nutrient (EC ~0.8mS). Continue to water the medium as required, typically every two or three days. Ensure to maintain root and air temperature at 20°C to 25°C and relative humidity at 80 per cent. Diligently remove any dead leaves or seedlings as these are an ideal host for fungi. Note: Some plant varieties (or mediums) may require little or no nutrient until the first few true leaves appear (Figure 2b). Hence, if the success rate is poor, try feeding with just water.
Figure 1: Heat mat, propagation lid and artificial lighting are beneficial for maximizing the success rate of cuttings and seedlings.
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How to Produce Seedlings - The Nine Steps to Success Figure 2 Seedings - stages of growth.
When transplanting, avoid disturbing roots. Simply plant the entire root block and medium. If it is necessary to remove the seedling from the propagation medium, ensure to be extremely gentle with the roots during the transplanting process: 1. Allow the roots to settle naturally into the new medium. Do not allow the roots to become twisted or bent upwards (Figure 3). 2. Plant the seedling to the same MY depth as it was before. Figure 2a: Initial stage of growth - ‘colydens’ remain below the soil’s surface.
Figure 2b: Later stage of growth - ‘colydens’ are carried above the soil’s surface.
Figure 3: Seedlings are usually due to be transplanted once the first ‘true leaves’ have formed. When transplanting do not allow the roots to become twisted or bent upwards and plant at the same depth as before.
For additional articles by Bob Taylor visit www.maximumyield.com
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MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
Growing Food from Scraps Indoors by Bonnie Burton
My indoor garden started with a royal flush. During a poker game with friends, I was halving an avocado for guacamole when I realized, to my complete shock, that I had a good hand. Instead of pausing the game to throw the pit in the trash, I poked a hole in the soil of the nearest houseplant, dropped in the pit and forgot about it. I was reminded a month later when the fast-growing avocado plant took over the pot. You too can grow an indoor garden with kitchen scraps usually thrown onto the compost heap.
Pineapple Green Onions 1. Use green onions with healthy, white roots attached to the bulb. Snip off green tops for cooking with scissors. Leave a little green top on the onion bulb. 2. Plant the entire onion while leaving the short top above ground in a small pot filled with a loamy, organic potting soil. Make sure your container has drainage holes. Place it in a sunny windowsill and water once a week or when soil feels dry to the touch. 3. Harvest new green shoots with scissors to use for cooking or as a tasty garnish. Continue to leave the onion in the soil. With each new growth the onion will taste more potent. After each harvest of onion tops, dress the topsoil with organic compost. Enjoy green onion tops in stir-fries, omelettes and in sandwiches all season long.
1. Indoor pineapple plants rarely produce flowers and fruit, but their striking foliage adds a touch of the exotic to any houseplant collection. All you need to grow one is the green top you cut off when you eat the pineapple. For best results, use a pineapple that has fresh centre leaves at the crown. Lob off the top, right where the crown meets the fruit. Peel off the bottom leaves and clean off the leftover fruit. Let the top rest a day before planting. 2. Fill a shallow pot with rich, loamy organic soil mixed with a few tablespoons of well-rinsed coffee grounds. Pineapple grows best in an acidic soil. Plant the pineapple top so the soil is even with the bottom of the crown. 3. Water well and mist the leaves and crown with a diluted, organic liquid fertilizer. As a member of the Bromeliaceae family, which also includes air plants, pineapple plants take much of their nourishment not from the soil but from nutrients in the moist air.
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plant does not need direct light to germinate, placing the pot on a sunny windowsill will speed up the growth. 4. Continue to water every week and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely. The pit may take over a month to germinate so be patient.
Avocado 1. For best results use only a ripe avocado. Carefully halve the fruit and rinse the pit. Pat dry and let sit overnight in a warm, dry spot. The next day, peel off any of the parchment-like skin from the pit. 2. Place the pit with the wider end of the base toward the bottom in an 18 centimetre pot full of loamy, rich organic soil. Make sure the tip is above the soil, exposed to light for proper germination. Water thoroughly. 3. If your apartment is dry, place a clear plastic cup over the exposed seed tip to serve as a mini-greenhouse. Though the
5. When the sprout emerges and grows to about 10 centimetres, add another layer of organic soil to cover the pit completely. This not only protects the seed, but also any roots that may poke through the soil in search of nourishment. 6. Once the plant starts growing, it may remind you of the story “Jack and the Beanstalk.” You can watch the plant grow tall for a year (supported with a wooden rod) and let it branch on its own, or make a decision to prune it and force it to branch, making a sturdier plant. If you choose to prune, it’s best to trim with a diagonal cut five centimetres from the top. Be careful as you prune not to cut the main stem more than ⅓ of its height. 7. Continue to add organic compost to fertilize the soil with each pruning and water as you would a houseplant. Only repot the fast-growing plant when it is six times taller than the diameter of the pot. 8. Though avocado plants do not bear fruit if grown indoors, you can plant multiple avocado pits at various times in the same pot for a more interesting arrangement.
Garlic 1. Plant a few garlic cloves with the pointed tip facing up in a pot with loamy organic soil. 2. Place the pot on a sunny windowsill and water regularly like a houseplant. 3. Green garlicky shoots will emerge in a week or so. Harvest them with scissors to use in cooking or as a tasty garnish for soups, salads and baked potatoes. MY
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MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
DO YOU
know?
The temperature of the water used on your plants
1 should remain fairly constant, between 20 and 22°C. When the water is too cold, the roots are unable to develop any pressure and thus, no water can be transported to the leaves.
The wasabi that most of us eat alongside sushi is
7 actually a mixture of horseradish, mustard and food colouring, and not a dish created from the real plant – wasabi japonica. Wasabi japonica is a member of the Brassicaceae
2
During the growth phase, the stems and leaves of your plants should be bathed in a grow lamp that is blue; a red lamp is best during the bloom phase.
8 (cabbage) family, with heart-shaped, bright green leaves, long white stems and a thick long rhizome, which is the part most sought after.
When cloning, it is a good idea to also own a heated
3 propagator, a propagation light and a grow tent, if you are doing many clones.
4
When your clones are in the rooting phase, it is best to avoid direct movement, meaning there should be no direct ventilation on the clones. Miracle Fruit was discovered
5 283 years ago, but it wasn’t
until the late 1960s that a man named Robert Harvey started the process to commercialize maraculin, the active ingredient in Miracle Fruit berries.
6
Older Miracle Fruit plants do not need as much humidity as the seedlings, but they will benefit from 60 to 70 per cent, which is the ideal range.
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CHECK YOUR growing I.Q.
Q
by Erik Biksa
1. After initiating flowering, the very tips/growing points at the tops of the plants appear to be taking on a slightly yellow, less green appearance. The symptoms exhibited are likely the result of: a) nitrogen deficiency b) magnesium deficiency c) iron and/or zinc deficiency d) none of the above 2. To correct this problem which type of application would be more effective? a) foliar spray b) root drench 3. In nutraceutical crops, essential oil production levels are often at their peak: a) mid-day b) end of the day c) start of light-cycle d) end of dark cycle 4. What methods may help in keeping mother/stock plants healthy, while not being grown to harvest cuttings? a) providing lodwer light intensities, very high in the blue spectrum (7000+ Kelvins) b) moderate to low fertilizer levels c) maintaining cooler temperatures (15 to 18°C) d) all of the above
ANSWERS: May-June 2009 quiz 1) e 2) b,c,d, 3) c 4) a 5) b 6) d 7) e
5. As a rule of thumb what should the capacity for a carbon filter used in a “scrub” (re-circulating) application per 1000W HID lamp: a) 150 CFM b) 420 CFM c) 680 CFM d) none of the above 6. What are some of the advantages in using an electronic ignition/glow plug type gas fires CO2 generator versus a standing pilot type model?
A
Answers to this quiz will be printed in the September-October 2009 issue of Maximum Yield. 46
MAXIMUM YIELD UK - July/August 2009
MAX-MART
COMING UP IN september-october 2009
FEATURES
How to Produce Cuttings Bob Taylor details the 10 steps to follow in order to successfully reproduce plants by means of cuttings.
The Ethical Gardener’s View on Plastic Pots The plastic plant pot, though cheap and handy, has become a huge waste problem in the UK. This piece presents variations that are equally user-friendly but eco-friendly as well.
You Tell Us‌ Maximum Yield talks to Noucetta Kehdi, co-founder of General Hydroponics Europe, about her experiences growing atypical plants and how GHE became the a leading innovator in the field of hydroponic technology.
How to Compost with Coffee Emma Cooper shows you how coffee grounds can be re-used as a source of fertility for your plants with seven handy tips to get you started.
RAINWATER HARVESTING FOR HYDROPONIC GARDENS Charlene Rennick introduces rainwater harvesting as a green technology that is free and renewable.
tHE DIGITAL SUN: BRIGHTER LIGHT FOR BETTER RESULTS Erik Biksa discusses the exciting options available for growers in digital lighting. Find out how digital ballasts compare to core and coil varieties.
www.maximumyield.com Online Extras for Maximum Yield UK Readers Online Extras for September / October serve to inspire and enthuse with guidelines that will help the beginner to the more experienced grower achieve success in all of their gardening endeavours.
Maximize your exposure with Max-Mart! Get your ad in the next issue of Maximum Yield Call 250-729-2677 for more information
Check indoorgardenexpo.com to stay informed about upcoming 2009 Indoor Gardening Expos.
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