Maximum Yield UK July/Aug 2012 by Maximum Yield

CONTENTS July/August 2012

FEATURES 64 24

by Grubbycup

by Matt LeBannister

Super Naturals – Using Biological Products in the Garden by Evan Folds

Contain Yourself: Seven Reasons to Consider Container Gardening by Heather Brautman

The Dos and Don’ts of Hot Pepper Eating by Karen Wilkinson

Measuring Light Intensity by Philip McIntosh

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Grow Tents—21st Century Greenhouses WWOOF it

by Michael Bloch

Companion Planting in Hydroponics

Keeping Roots in Tip-top Condition

by Donald Lester

by Casey Jones Fraser

Try Hydroponics

Consider Using Citric Acid

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

DEPARTMENTS 8

From the Editor

Talking Shop

MaximumYield.com

Industry’s Latest

Letters to the Editor

Do You Know?

Simon Says

Max Mart

MAX Facts

Distributors

Product Spotlight

You Tell Us

Coming up in September/ October

FREE APP

Nutrient Calculator

Available on iTunes

FROM THE EDITOR | JESSICA RAymOND

Summer’s here and whether you have moved your garden outdoors, are continuing to grow indoors or keeping busy with both, this issue has some great tips to help you yield the best crops ever. From companion planting and choosing the right containers, to experimenting with grow tents, we’ve got you covered. Add in a fantastic line-up of trendy and innovative new products, growing tips and industry spotlights, and you have an issue packed full of the industry’s best. We have now made sharing your growing tips and questions easier than ever. Join us on our Facebook page at facebook.com/maximumyield, which offers a platform for you to share your thoughts and photos with like-minded individuals.You can also send us your questions or brag about your grow successes by emailing editor@maximumyield.com. In addition, we offer free subscriptions to our monthly eNews letter, which keeps you up-to-the-minute on global news, events, new products and technologies. Subscribe online at maximumyield.com and, while you are there, be sure to enter our “Win a Grow Room” contest for your chance to win a complete grow set-up. Take time to enjoy the summer. Happy growing!

Jessica Raymond, Editor editor@maximumyield.com

CONTRIBUTORS Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.

Casey Jones Fraser owns Garden

Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information.

Grove Organics, in Northern Kentucky/ Greater Cincinnati. He has a degree in communications and electronic media. He believes that indoor gardeners can achieve the highest quality crops and maximum yields when proper science is applied. Since 1998, Casey has been testing various nutrients and supplements in search of outstanding harvests.

Michael Bloch is the owner and editor of GreenLivingTips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy. The site offers a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment-related news to help consumers and businesses reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact.

Grubbycup has been an avid

Donald Lester is the plant

products manager at JH Biotech, Inc., a California based agricultural technology company with 27 OMRI certified products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with an emphasis in entomology. He is an agricultural scientist with over 10 years of research experience and 50 scientific publications to his credit.

Evan Folds is president of Progressive Gardens, a natural approach land care company, and Progress Earth (www.progressearth. com). With a degree in biology and religion, Evan’s interests include making sense of food production and bringing awareness to such topics as empty food, municipal water fluoridation and spiritual intolerance.

Heather Brautman’s hydroponics

Matt LeBannister developed a

Philip McIntosh is a science and

indoor gardener for over 20 years. His articles were first published in the United Kingdom, and since then his gardening advice has been published in French, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Czechoslovakian and German. He is also considered one of the world’s leading authorities on crochet hydroponics.

knowledge consisted of her favorite ride at Walt Disney World’s before she moved to California in October 2011. Since becoming Hydrofarm’s staff writer in February 2012, she’s been enjoying learning about grow media—like coco coir and perlite—not paparazzi. She has a master’s degrees in technical writing as well as PR/communications.

green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.

technology writer with a bachelor’s degree in botany and chemistry and a master’s degree in biological science. During his graduate research he used hydroponic techniques to grow axenic plants. He lives in Colorado Springs, CO. where he teaches mathematics at Challenger Middle School.

Karen Wilkinson works for EZ-

CLONE Enterprises, Inc., as its social media editor. She came to them with a background in journalism and technical writing and is learning to grow, clone and write for the hydroponics community. She’s a budding gardener and loves growing her own vegetables.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

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VOLUME 12 – NUMBER 2 JULy/AUgUst 2012 Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092

PREsIDENt/PUBLIsHER - Jim Jesson gENERAL MANAgER - Don Moores BUsINEss MANAgER - Linda Jesson EDItORIAL Editor-in-Chief Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com Assistant Editor Jessica Skelton jskelton@maximumyield.com ADVERtIsINg sALEs Director of Sales Raymond Henderson raymond@maximumyield.com Account Executives Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com Hayley Jesson - hayley@maximumyield.com Emily Rodgers - emily@maximumyield.com Phil Shakespeare - phil@maximumyield.com DEsIgN & PRODUCtION ads@maximumyield.com Art Director Alice Joe alice@maximumyield.com Graphic Designers Jennifer Duong - jennifer@maximumyield.com Liz Johnston - liz@maximumyield.com Denise Higginson - denise@maximumyield.com ACCOUNtINg Tracy Greeno - accounting@maximumyield.com Tara Campbell - tara@maximumyield.com

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DiD You Know?

Most people think plants only take in CO2 and give off oxygen, but the truth is most plants actually respire and give off CO2 as well, during the night. So that's why my CO2 level is slightly elevated before lights come on, I was thinking my regulator had a leaky o-ring. Thanks for the info. Makes sense. James Whitlock

a LocaL Point of View

I appreciate that Maximum Yield encourages the support of local business with the Talking Shop feature. More often than not, these are familyowned and -operated shops and they need more consumer support than they can afford to entice with expensive advertising. You provide them with the opportunity to efficiently introduce themselves to the market. The “At a Glance” bar is quite effective as well, providing contact information and directing readers to web stores (if applicable). Keep it up, Peter Cowan

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What does growing green mean to you? To me, growing green means being as ecofriendly as possible from composting your scraps and making your own compost, fertilizing your plants and growing organically. Keeping the environment in a happy equilibrium at all times is most important. I’m a big fan of and activist in the green movement. I compost all my scraps so I can feed my fruits and vegetables grade-A free fertilizer. I also tell anyone that grows how important these issues are, and also teach people how to be as green as they can. To be green you have to think ahead and manage your resources. Only we can change the status quo, and it needs to be changed. If everyone grew their own food, composted or at least saved their scraps for other composters, and was educated on the basics of these principals, they would most likely participate in the green movement and care more about the environment. Thank you for reading and listening. I love your magazine; I’ve learned a lot from various issues and appreciate the great information and dedication to your readers. Keep up the good work. Thanks Kristofer Arrigo

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

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SIMON SAYS Hello, I’m a student researching urban agriculture and vertical farming projects that incorporate hydroponics and aeroponics. What do you think about these vertical farm projects? Do you think that they are utopian? What are the advantages and the drawbacks of hydroponics and aeroponics? How does the quality of hydroponic and aeroponic crops compare to crops cultivated outside in soil? Thank you for your time. Kind regards, Thibaut Forté The future of agriculture is becoming an extremely interesting conversation as farmers around the world struggle with more volatile weather conditions and trying to feed a growing population. There are many facets to the changing face of agriculture and vertical farming is one of them. The concept of layered farming within a building is an efficient and creative opportunity. Still, vertical farms require supplemental lighting to ensure the plants in the middle are receiving the light required for healthy growth. This adds a large energy component to the project and the more floors there are, the more energy needed. LED lighting options might provide an alterative, but not for vining crops like cucumbers and tomatoes (which are two of the dominant crops grown hydroponically in the world). So, in the short to medium term, we should look at lowcost, low-input models before jumping into the high-cost, high-input option of dedicated structures for urban agriculture. We already have taken a good first step toward sustainable urban food production: using rooftovps. Nonetheless, there are a couple of problems when it comes to water-based roof gardens. The first problem is the amount of radiant heat on rooftops; this can make water temperature regulation a massive issue, especially in sensitive aeroponic systems. Also, the waste water from hydroponic systems 14

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

still has a vast amount of soluble nutrients unused by the plants. This creates an issue of disposal. Fresh substrate would also need to be brought in between crops. Most large green roofs currently use drought-tolerant species that are planted and then basically forgotten. Now imagine the same space, only including people interacting with food crops. An amazing next step in our urban

“Building food and biodiversity into a system that improves the urban environment at the same time would be such a positive step forward.” food development would be to take the Cuban organoponicos concept and place it on rooftops full of shallow (30 centimetres) raised beds filled with soilless mix and compost.You would get the

insulation value, cooling effect and water retention of a green roof along with the low-cost, nearly self-sufficient aspect of the Cuban food experience. Building food and biodiversity into a system that also improves the urban environment would be such a positive step forward. Economically speaking, the building could generate revenue by leasing the growing space as an additional floor and, in turn, it would provide opportunity for entrepreneurs looking at food production but needing space. And a chance to get a new generation of people excited about farming? That’s always a good thing. In keeping with efficient urban farming and organoponicos, vermicomposting could supply the majority of nutrition in the soilless beds on the rooftop. A building based on green diversion could keep 30 per cent of building waste on-site to build biodiversity and feed the plants. A small portion of the garden could also be dedicated as a habitat for beneficial insects, improving the balance of the space. The vertical farm is a very creative concept and will probably end up being exceptionally important in the future. However, until we have worked out an efficient system and a reasonable cost, we need to adapt in different ways. Our rooftops are numerous and can provide nutritious, low-impact food while reducing the heat island effect and making our cities more liveable. My

MAX FACTS

hyDROpONIC NEwS, TIpS AND TRIvIA

iRon-eatinG MaGnetized baCteRia unveiled A British-Japanese research project has created a type of bacteria that ingests iron, creating magnets inside itself. Scientists based their research on Magnetospirilllum magneticum, which are naturally magnetic and align themselves along the Earth's magnetic fields. The newly designed microscopic magnets could be used to create high-speed hard drives on a nano scale. “We are quickly reaching the limits of traditional electronic manufacturing as computer components get smaller,” said lead researcher Dr. Sarah Staniland of the University of Leeds. “Nature has provided us with the perfect tool to [deal with] this problem.” (Source: treehugger.com)

MAXFACTS hyDROpONIC NEwS, TIpS AND TRIvIA

“PuRPle wondeRS” alMoSt ReadY foR MaRket A scientist at Cornell University has developed a new commercial strawberry variety—the Purple Wonder—said to be the darkest in colour ever. The new fruits start off white, but develop to a deep burgundy shade all the way through the berry as they mature. The new strawberry was developed in association with Burpee and a plant patent will be filed on it later this year. (Source: freshplaza.com)

holY Giant RobotiCal SunfloweRS, batMan! Recently released is a new solar-powered, stand-alone heliostat in the shape of a giant sunflower. The “plant” tracks the sun with an on-board computer, directing heat and light to shady areas of the home and garden. The Sunflower Home Heliostat is 0.91 metres in diameter, with a mirror surface of 4,903.22 square centimetres—roughly the area of a 106.68 centimetre TV screen—and can be assembled with nothing but a Philips-head screwdriver. The device is available to consumers in North and South America, Europe, Australia and New Zealand for just under $400. (Source: treehugger.com)

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

the SeCRet life of PlantS A documentary featured on Canadian network CBC recently revealed that plants actively forage for food, call in allies to defend against enemies and appear to nurture their young. "Smarty Plants"—which aired on CBC-TV's The Nature of Things—used stopmotion photography to speed up the movements of plants as they hunted for food, shared resources with younger plants and used chemical secretions to call in predators to attack harmful caterpillars. “Plants aren't these pretty, inanimate objects that gardeners work with. They're these incredibly vital, responsive organisms…and it turns out they're way more active than we ever imagined," explained director Erna Buffie. (Source: cbc.ca)

funGal ePideMiCS on the RiSe Fungal diseases have been increasing in severity and scale since the middle of the 20th century and now pose a serious danger to global food security, biodiversity and ecosystem health, according to a study published in the journal Nature. Fungal infections presently destroy at least 125 million tonnes of the top five global food crops—rice, wheat, maize, potatoes and soybeans—annually and scientists estimate that more than 600 million people could be fed each year by halting the spread of these diseases. The authors of the study calculate that up to 900 million tonnes of food could be spoiled if fungal epidemics were to hit all the top five food crops in the same year, which would cause a global famine that could leave over 4.2 billion people starving. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

bRuSSelS SPRoutS Still awful Apparently it’s not their fault your kids hate Brussels sprouts—researchers say that an aversion to bitter tastes is a survival instinct, since most toxins taste bitter too. As your kids age they’ll lose olfactory sensitivity along with a percentage of their taste buds and they will probably learn to like some of the foods they hated as children. An interesting corollary of this theory has it that that the reason many especially “big-tasting” wines in recent years have won awards is that most distinguished wine critics are getting older and finding subtle flavours harder to taste with their diminished senses. (Source: popsci.com)

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

MAX FACTS

hyDROpONIC NEwS, TIpS AND TRIvIA

“floweRinG SwitCh” diSCoveRed Following a five-year study, a team of researchers led by Associate Professor Yu Hao from the Department of Biological Sciences at the National University of Singapore has identified the specific protein that triggers the process of flowering in plants. After scanning around three million samples using a process called yeast two-hybrid screening, the researchers were finally able to identify a molecule they called FTIP1. Professor Yu and his team are currently working on new studies that indicate that a group of FTIP1like proteins are involved in a whole range of other plant developmental processes. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

CitY-dwelleRS develoP MoRe alleRGieS, aSthMa New research coming out of Finland shows that a lack of contact with nature might be leading to more city-dwellers developing allergies and asthma. In particular, people living in cities do not have access to natural microbes, which are not found in man-made environments. “The microbiota in natural environments is more beneficial for us. They are important for...the normal development of the immune system,” says the report’s co-author Ilkka Hanski. In other words, don’t stay inside and be a germophobe. Nature is good for you. (Source: treehugger.com)

hiGh on life A recent article in The Atlantic magazine has suggested that the rich, earthy smell of compost might be so appealing to gardeners because compost contains microorganisms that can make you happy. The microorganisms—M. vaccae—have been shown to boost levels of serotonin and norepinephrine in the systems of both humans and mice, and apparently work in the same way as antidepressant pills. (Source: theatlantic.com)

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

GReen RoofS aRe ChanGinG aRChiteCtuRe The proposed Express Rail Link West Kowloon Terminus is said to become the largest underground high-speed rail station (connecting Hong Kong to Beijing) in the world when it is complete in 2015. Designed by Andrew Bromberg of Aedas, the 4,628,481 square foot terminal’s ribbon-like roof will meet the ground—giving pedestrians access to trails and green spaces on top of the building. Voids and apertures within the facade will bring daylight down to the subgrade platforms. (Source: treehugger.com)

woRld’S laRGeSt aquaPoniCS PRojeCt unveiled In a country where water efficiency is of utmost importance, using aquaponics—which uses a fraction of the water needed in traditional agriculture—to grow food makes sense. The Baniyas Centre in the United Arab Emirates is capable of producing a massive 200 tonnes of tilapia and 300,000 heads of lettuce. In the future, the centre plans to also accommodate other produce, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, even okra. Currently the UAE is estimated to import around 85 per cent of its food ,which understandably leaves the country open to market fluctuations and supply chain problems. (Source: hydroponicsguide.co.uk)

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

PRODUCT SpOTLIGhT

yOUR GUIDE TO ThIS ISSUE’S

HOTTEST ITEMS Ask for them at your local indoor gardening store.

intRoduCinG autoPot'S 24Pot SYSteM The 24Pot growing system by AutoPot is one of our most popular systems, offering a unique and simple solution to providing your plants with everything they need. The system requires no electricity, timers or pumps—just gravity pressure from a water butt. Once set up, the AQUAvalve within the tray takes over and provides the 24 pots with water and nutrients as required. Also, unlike most other irrigation systems there is no recirculation of nutrient or water so the pH and EC remain constant in your reservoir. The 24 pots and trays are easily moved when your plants grow too large. Finally, this system requires minimal input; it can be left unattended for weeks at a time whilst still producing outstanding results. For further details visit your local retailer.

dutChPRo’S exPlode Explode is a brilliant bloom stimulator that delivers precious nutrients and minerals to your plants throughout the flowering stage. Consisting of micronutrients, vitamins and acids, it does exactly as the name suggests: explosively driving flowering growth and bigger yields in addition to increasing your plants’ resistance against diseases. This product is suitable for every irrigation system—as well as most soil, hydro and coco set-ups—and is available in 250 ml, 1 L, 5 L, 10 L and 20 L sizes. For more information visit your local retailer.

luMii GRowRooM lenSeS

Plant MaGiC PluS evolution

LUMii Growroom Lenses are designed to allow you to view your crops in a more natural light, and reduce the glare from HID and CFL grow lamps. The lenses have a specially developed blue lens that corrects the orange hue of sodium lights, making the growroom appear as if it is in daylight. This makes identifying pests and disease problems easier and without having to turn off the grow lights. So, check those key growth indicators clearly with LUMii Growroom Lenses. For more information ask your local retailer.

Evolution will significantly speed up the vegetative stages and get the plant ready for forming bountiful fruits and flowers; this is due predominantly to the sheer amount of new growth that forms and the number of healthy new shoots. Evolution improves photosynthesis, which leads to rapid vertical growth, healthier plants, more fruit sets (leading to better yields) and an improved root structure. Evolution is complex containing a vast range of bio stimulants, natural plant hormones, Polysaccharide sugars, a wealth of vitamins, trace elements, amino acids and of course humic and fulvic acids. Evolution can be used in any method of growing. Ask for Evolution at your local hydroponic shop.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

MaxibRiGht CoMPaCt fluoReSCent laMPS Maxibright CFLs give you excellent quality and guaranteed reliability. All lamps in the Maxibright range are energy efficient with low-heat output and come complete with an integrated electronic ballast. Maxibright CFLs are available in two colour temperatures to suit each plant stage: red 2700K and blue 6400K. New to the Maxibright CFL range is the Maxibright CFL Dual Spectrum 250W. The latest in horticultural technology, they are enhanced with red and blue colour temperatures to provide both essential light wavelengths throughout the growing process. As a result you are always guaranteed optimum plant yields. Also available are 125 W, 200 W, 250 W and 300 W are also available. For more information visit your favourite hydroponic shop.

autoPot'S 400-litRe flexitank iS heRe AutoPot is pleased to announce that their collapsible water tank, the FlexiTank, is now available in a new 400-litre capacity. FlexiTank revolutionises water storage: the box size is a mere 110 by 18 by 13 cm and it weighs only 4.15 kg, meaning many more can be shipped for the same price as far fewer normal tanks. The tank also requires no tools for assembly and takes minutes to put together. Once assembled, the FlexiTank can fit where other tanks cannot, and it can be packed away and stored at the end of the season. All of these features make the FlexiTank a truly cutting-edge product and the perfect practical solution to water storage. For more information visit your local retailer.

CYCo PlatinuM PRokit The Cyco Platinum ProKit is the perfect choice for serious gardeners. This complete package of superior formulated products includes everything required from start to harvest. The ProKit contains an easy-toread grow and bloom chart for all mediums. Both charts are based on a week-to-week, colour-coded system, making the ProKit one of the most user-friendly kits available. Contents include: one litre each of Cyco Grow A+B, Cyco Bloom A+B, Cyco Swell, Cyco Potash Plus, Cyco Silica, Cyco Zyme, Cyco B1 Boost, Cyco Dr. Repair, Cyco Uptake, 100 milliliters of Cyco XL and an information booklet. Visit your favourite hydro shop to learn more.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

PRODUCT SpOTLIGhT

PoweRPlant foCuS The new FOCUS reflector from PowerPlant is ideal for smaller growing areas and grow tents. Computer engineered for superior light distribution, the PowerPlant FOCUS is designed to give the most even coverage of light available over a 1 m to 1.2 m footprint. Compatible with 250 W, 400 W and 600 W lamps, the PowerPlant FOCUS reflector is fitted with a 4 m power cord to IEC socket. Ask your local retailer for more information today.

luMii Maxii The LUMii MAXii is a simple and easy-to-use, Dutch-barn-style reflector. It is an open-ended, highly polished and dimpled lightweight reflector, which gives an efficient and even distribution of light. It includes a unique adjustable lamp holder, designed to fit all E40 lamp types. With the LUMii MAXii system and the CFL Converter Kit, you can use a cool CFL lamp for vegetative growth then, if you are flowering, switch to an HPS lamp by simply unplugging the converter plug and plugging into a LUMii ballast—all without taking your reflector down or changing it. For more information see your local retailer today.

MaxibRiGht PRoPaGation liGhtinG The Maxibright product range is always at the cuttingedge of new technology, using only the highest-quality components. Maxibright Mk3 PL2 (570 by 240 by 70 mm) and Mk3 PL4 (570 by 420 by 70 mm) propagation lights come complete with a highly reflective aluminium reflector insert to eliminate hotspots and ensure that young plants receive an optimum level of diffused light. The Mk3 PL2 unit comes with two 55 W daylight tubes and the Mk3 PL4 unit comes with four 55 W daylight tubes. Daylight tubes are supplied with the unit for maximum blue light output, essential for young plants in their early growing stage. The lights are designed with hanging locations and bolts for jack chain to allow easy installation. For more information visit an indoor gardening shop near you.

dutChPRo’S take Root Take Root is a new growth stimulant capable of radically improving the inner and outer qualities of your young plants. The active components, which include several plant hormones and micronutrients, are of natural origin and combine to boost cellular division, cell elongation and nutrient transport—all of which help with overall root development during early vegetative growth. In addition to this, Take Root also slows down the ageing process for prolonged good health. This superb root stimulator is suitable for every irrigation system—as well as soil, hydro and coco set-usp—and is to be used with cuttings and young plants. Take Root is available in 250 ml, 1 L, 5 L, 10 L and 20 L sizes. See your local retailer for more information.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

dutChPRo’S Multi total Multi Total—the gr ow media improver—aids the key processes necessary for turning organic material made of dead plant matter into beneficial nutrients. It promotes nutrient producing bacterial life in the substrate and sparks off significant root growth by improving the soil’s water retention. Multi Total also stimulates the cationic exchange of minerals and micronutrients and improves resistance against fungi and stress situations. This product is suited for every irrigation system—as well as most soil, hydro and coco set-ups—and is available in 250 ml, 1 L, 5 L, 10 L and 20 L sizes. Visit your local hydroponic shop for more information.

floRanova™ Patent GRanted General Hydroponics (GH) applied for an international patent on FloraNova a few years ago. This February, the US patent was granted. “This is one of the most important patents in fertilizer history since it protects the only elementally complete one-part, fully soluble, liquid concentrate with precisely calibrated elemental content combining minerals and organic ingredients. The international patents will follow soon,” says Lawrence Brooke, founder of GH. The international patents of FloraNova, including those in Europe and China, are still pending. FloraNova is a complete, fully water-soluble fertilizer that contains mineral and organic ingredients. It is also highly concentrated, with nutrients amounting to at least about 80 per cent by weight of the suspension.

MaxibRiGht t5 PRoPaGation unitS The Maxibright T5 is a high-quality propagation unit especially designed for T5 high output fluorescent tubes. Each tube delivers 4,450 lumens of light with an extremely low-heat output, meaning the tubes can be placed close to the plants to deliver massive amounts of light compared to HID lighting. All T5 units come complete with blue 6,500K fluorescent tubes, but tubes are also available in red 2,700K so you can have lighting to suit each stage of plant growth. Maxibright T5 propagation units come in two, four and eight tube sizes. For more information visit your local retailer.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Consider Using

Citric Acid by Donald Lester

Knowing the ways citric acid works in variety of situations can bring you closer to understanding its benefits in greenhouses, indoor gardens or protected cropping systems. Citric acid has many uses in hydroponics and greenhouse environments. In greenhouses and farming operations, citric acid can be used to acidify water or nutrient solutionsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and remove calcium deposits, scale and other hard water buildup from tubing, pipes, drippers, tanks, cooling pads, nozzles, glass, equipment and other surfaces. If run through the irrigation or drip system citric acid not only clears and removes hard water, calcium and scale deposits, but over time it can reduce the pH of the soil as well. 24

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

“At room temperature, citric acid is a white crystalline powder that resembles table salt and readily dissolves in water.” Citric acid is responsible for the sour (vinegar) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) taste we experience when eating lemons, are considered to be weak acids. Citric limes, grapefruits, oranges or other citrus acid might be weak, but the citric acid fruits. At room temperature, citric acid is in a lemon is strong enough to power a a white crystalline powder that resembles clock. Those LED clocks plugged into table salt and readily dissolves in water. a lemon at children’s science fairs are As an ingredient, citric acid is used in powered principally by citric acid reactmany industries you would not expect. ing with the metal in the wires to create Citric acid is a good general cleaner, and a crude battery. Citric acid is also used is the active ingredient in many bathin beverages and candies, and although room and kitchen cleaning solutions—a it is considered to be a weak acid, it is solution with a citric acid content of six known to be capable of dissolving away per cent will remove hard water stains tooth enamel over time. In fact, it is said from glass without the need for scrubthat the citric acid in lemon juice will bing. In industry, citric acid is also used even dissolve a pearl. to dissolve rust from steel. Here is anothThere have been several articles written er example: tobacco is a leafy green plant about the basic principles of pH—how with high levels of chlorophyll, which low pH is acidic and high pH is alkaline is alkaline (or, high pH). This alkalinity (or basic)—so I will not review that gives cigarette smoke a harsh flavour. here. But if a solution (or the water for Citric acid is added to tobacco during the solution) is high in pH, then the processing to reduce the alkalinity of the way to reduce that pH is to add an acid. leaves. Citric acid is also added to cigaCitric acid products for growers and rette paper to control the rate at which greenhouse applications usually come it burns, allowing the paper and tobacco as pH-reducing additives, with tables to burn at the same rate. supplied to assist in approximating the amount of product needed to adjust the Many people confuse citric acid with vitamin C (ascorbic acid), but the two are different, if only slightly. Chemically, the only difference between ascorbic acid and citric acid is that citric acid has one additional oxygen atom. Vitamin C tastes very bitter, just like most vitamins, so citric acid is used as a flavouring in many preparations of vitamin C to mask the bitter taste of ascorbic acid. Acids have different strengths. The acids commonly used in hydroponics and greenhouses—nitric acid, phosphoric acid, sulphuric acid “Growers who acidify their water should adjust and hydrochloric their fertilization program to account for any acid—are all considered to be strong nutrient supplied by the corresponding acid.” acids, whereas citric acid, acetic acid Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Consider Using CitriC ACid

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Citric acid is relatively safe to use, inexpensive, versatile in its uses, natural, widely available and certified for use in organic food production.â&#x20AC;?

pH from a given level to the desired level. These tables are helpful, but it is generally better to use a pH metre to ensure accuracy. Perhaps the central issue in mixing any nutrient solution is the pH or acidity of the water and finished mix. Citric acid is ideal as an acidifier for nutrient stock solutions and pesticide solutions because it is much less likely to react with fertilizer salts or pesticides than other acids. Use citric acid for acidifying water used to make concentrated fertilizer stocks and pesticide solutions, because high-pH water can hydrolyze or degrade pesticides that are added. By adjusting the pH beforehand, pesticide solutions last longer and their effectiveness is maintained. Some acids used for water acidification also supply a plant nutrient in conjunction with the acid. For example, nitric acid supplies nitrogen and phosphoric acid supplies phosphorus. The nutrient supplied can be beneficial to plant growth if not supplied in excess, but it can also react with fertilizer salts in concentrated stock solutions or with pesticides if mixed into spray solutions. 26

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Growers who acidify their water should adjust their fertilization program to account for any nutrient supplied by the corresponding acid. For example, if using phosphoric acid, growers need to make sure to reduce the phosphorus fertilizer they add accordingly to account for the phosphorus supplied by the acid. These calculations might be too complicated for a beginner, so using citric acid can simplify the process. With the growth of the organic market over the years, citric acid has become popular because it is principally made from natural sources and certified as suitable for use in organic food production. Industrial-scale citric acid production originally began in 1890, based on the Italian citrus fruit industry. However, microbial production of citric acid did not become important until World War I disrupted Italian citrus exports. Today, most citric acid is produced commercially on a large scale by feeding sugar to the bacteria Aspergillus niger. Citric acid is a weak acid that is relatively safe compared to the strong acids like nitric acid, phosphoric acid and

sulphuric acid. Because citric acid reduces the pH of solutions it is also a good disinfectant, and it is sometimes used as a cut-flower preservative in vases to reduce the pH of the water to 3.5 to prevent the growth of microorganisms. Citric acid is relatively safe to use, inexpensive, versatile in its uses, natural, widely available and certified for use in organic food production. With all of these benefits shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you consider using citric acid in your greenhouse, indoor garden or protected cropping system? My

Keeping Roots in Tip-top Condition by Dr. Lynette Morgan

"Roots age, just as old foliage will senesce on the upper parts of the plant, but there will always be sufficient new root growth to continue to support the plant for as long as required." Root systems can vary in size and nature between different species.

What do healthy roots look like?

Just what a healthy root system should look like can be a little confusing. Many of us like to see very white, bright, thick roots with fluffy root hairs and a decent volume of roots within the system. Some growers are impressed by very long roots that grow down and out of the base of their containers. However, roots donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be snowy white or very long to be healthy and often roots in certain types of hydroponic systems will have 28

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

a different appearance. Temperature and stage of plant growth can also play a role in root appearance and some root death is part of the natural cycle of many plants that live longer. Tomato plants, for example, prefer to put large amounts of energy into growing young fruit and during this stage the roots might suffer some limited die back and change in appearance to that of a young vegetative plant. Roots age, just as old foliage will senesce on the upper parts of the plant, but there will always

Root system of a young garlic plant showing clean and healthy young roots.

as coir or those in aeroponics, despite all systems giving similar yields and growth rates. Roots adapt to the conditions they are grown in to a certain extent and can thrive in a range of environments provided they have sufficient oxygen, moisture and nutrients. In systems where the roots are obtaining all their oxygen requirements from the nutrient solutions, such as dissolved oxygen, they tend to not have the proliferation of quite visible white fluffy root hairs that those grown in aeroponics or a light, very well aerated media do.

Basic Anatomy be sufficient new root growth to continue to support the plant for as long as required. Darker coloured roots—cream, tan or brown—are more common in plants past the seedling stage and under warmer root zone temperatures. Darker root colour doesn’t mean the root system is unhealthy; in fact many plants develop well-functioning brown roots as the plant ages. Root thickness is influenced by temperature, with thinner roots seen under warmer growing conditions, although this varies somewhat between species. One interesting experiment that hydroponic growers or students can carry out is to grow plants like lettuce or tomatoes in a few different types of root environments to see how this influences root appearance in healthy plants. Roots that are continually submerged in a deep solution culture system appear very different to those in a light growing media such

Young roots in most plants look very similar. A few millimetres back from the root tip, there are usually very fine, delicate root hairs. Further back from the root tip, the lateral roots develop, giving the root system a highly branched appearance. The tip of the root is always covered by a root cap. New cells originate in the root tip, with elongation growth creasing often only a few millimetres behind the tip. For this reason, keeping the root tips healthy and in optimal conditions is essential for root system function and continued development. The root cap consists of short-lived cells, which contain large starch grains (statoliths) that sink under the influence of gravity to whichever sides of the cells are lowermost. This is thought to be the gravity sensing mechanism that causes roots to grow downward. Root systems tend to consist of several different types of roots. Those that

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Keeping roots in tip-top Condition

cial are benefi mic acids h u it h w d t n a d assis "Fulvic nction an of for root fu ke and chelation ta p mineral u lements." e

Root mats in NFT channels can become thick and dense.

grow downward strongly and become thickened will develop into tap roots. However, the majority of roots remain thin and only grow downward weakly or not at all and these are termed fibrous roots. Lateral roots grow out from other roots, usually several centimetres behind the root tip. While adventitious roots are quite different and can grow out from stems and even leaves; these are commonly seen in plants such as tomatoes and peppers. The root cap cells have a rapid rate of turnover and as the older cells toward the outside of the cap age, they secrete “mucilage.” The mucilage secretion coats the outside of the root tip with a thick slimy layer to which many of the old root cells stick. In soil, where roots are free to spread over quite a large area, mucilage is never really a problem and is rapidly broken down by microbes. In hydroponics we sometimes see problems in species such as cucumbers that produce large amounts of root mucilage, increasing the organic loading in low volume systems and, in particular, in water culture systems. Mucilage is rapidly consumed by microbes, but it can also be an organic food source

NFT spinach plants in healthy condition (left). Those on right have been infected with root pathogens and are only just starting to show signs on the foliage.

where there are high populations of pathogens in the root zone. While there have been some studies into the effects of mucilage in hydroponic systems, much depends on other factors such as the level of oxygen around the roots, moisture, species, types of microbes present and the amount of mucilage produced. What we should remember is that despite all the high-tech equipment hydroponic growers can take advantage of, we are still running biological systems and there is a delicate balance to be kept between plants, microbes and the environment.

Optimum Root Conditions

The root mat on the left was grown in an oxygen-enriched nutrient flow. The root mat on the right maintained lower levels of dissolved oxygen.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

What do plant roots need to function well and support good plant growth? There are three basic requirements—oxygen, moisture and correct nutrient balance. If these are kept in balance, then most plants won’t succumb to attack by root disease pathogens. Optimizing the root environment is the best method of keeping roots in tip top condition. Plants have the ability to absorb the oxygen they need for respiration, root function and nutrient uptake from both the air and that dissolved in water. However, the amount of oxygen that is typically dissolved in water or a nutrient solution is very low, only around 13 to 14 ppm at most, so it can be rapidly depleted unless replenished with solution aeration methods. Air contains significantly more oxygen, however, roots sitting in the air risk drying out unless

kept moist by some method. In a media system, the pores within the media contain air, which is replenished during the irrigation and draining cycles, however, the physical properties of media determine how much pore space and, therefore, air is available to the roots. The ideal pore space in a hydroponic media is between 20 to 45 per cent, depending on irrigation frequency and plant type. Light or granular media such as coir fibre, perlite, expanded clay and rockwool are usually very well-aerated. Heavier media that holds a lot of moisture such as poor quality peat, compost or heavy soil, and any media that has become very compacted, often doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t contain sufficient aeration for maximum root growth. Prevention of fluctuations in moisture within the root zone is also important for healthy roots; drying and over wetting are major causes of root death and pathogen attack and although many plants can regenerate roots after a period of desiccation, they are often severely weakened. Nutrients are also vital. In hydroponics we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tend to see the type or frequency of mineral disorders in the root grown crops, although they may develop. A lack of phosphorus can impede root development through a lack of energy production. A lack of calcium can cause the root tips to become jelly-like and boron deficiency can cause root splitting and hollow core in crops such as carrots, parsnips and beets. Boron is also a known synergist in combination with IBA for new root formation on cuttings. Additives such as silica can strengthen the root zone in many plant species and there is much evidence to suggest that maintaining a healthy balance of beneficial microbes in the root zone can

ving might are not thri "Plants that epinasty (bending lour or develop leaf ss of leaf co root ), wilting, lo a downwards wer drop might have flo ." m foliage and zone proble

Signs of a severe root disease outbreak, wilted, stunted foliage calls for an investigation of the root system.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Keeping roots in tip-top Condition

Colour, thickness and length of roots are influenced by a number of factors including temperature, oxygen levels and stage of growth. Float or raft systems are great for observing root form and health without disturbing the plant.

assist root health. Fulvic and humic acids are also beneficial for root function and assist with mineral uptake and chelation of elements, making them more available for plant growth.

Pathogen Attack Healthy roots should be intact—that is not mushy, breaking apart, rotten, decaying, smelling bad or withering away. Large amounts of broken root pieces flowing back to the reservoirs in NFT and similar systems are a warning sign (unless they are there due to harvesting or removal of mature plants). Other warning signs that things might be falling apart down below can be a little more difficult as these are quite similar to many other problems caused by pests, diseases, mineral deficiencies, physiological problems, viruses and poor environmental control. However, symptoms such as yellowing or chlorosis (yellowing between the veins) on the new foliage indicate a problem with iron uptake and although this might be caused by low temperatures or a lack of iron in the nutrient, it is more often than not caused by root death. Once roots begin to die back, or are weakened and not functioning well, iron is one of the first elements that the plant fails to take up and chlorosis develops rapidly. Plants that are not thriving might develop leaf epinasty (bending downwards), wilting, loss of leaf colour or foliage and flower drop might have a root zone problem; this should certainly be investigated along with any other potential causes. Large amounts of dead roots can be easily identified if a plant is removed from the hydroponic system; many roots will be disintegrating and whole root system might appear very sparse in advanced cases. Many of us are already fully aware of what “damping off ” looks like on seedlings.The same pathogens such as pythium, rhizoctonia and phytophthora can result in root die back on more mature plants with similar symptoms.

cultivars and not a cause for major concern. Seedlings of some species such as spinach might give the appearance that the roots are bursting up from the surface of the media instead of growing directly downward; this to is a sign that conditions in the growing media are not ideal, perhaps over saturated, cold or too compacted. Strange white waxy or flaky flecks attached to the roots or in the growing media can indicate the presence of root mealy bug, a nasty pest that can be common in houseplants, ornamentals and longer term crops. Repotting and drenching with pesticide is about the only way to control these root sucking critters, although many plants manage to survive infestations for considerable lengths of time. A proliferation of very short, stunted roots with a small compacted root ball and root tips that don’t appear to want to grow down in the nutrient flow or growing media are a sign of phyto toxicity. This has been seen where phyto toxic plasticizers have inadvertently been used to make channels and growing containers. Luckily this was more common in the very early days of hydroponics and is not an issue for hydroponic gear manufactured now. However, use of plastic containers not originally designed for hydroponics can still cause these phyto toxicity symptoms in the root zone. A healthy root system is essential for a healthy plant; however, learning to recognize signs of trouble in the nether regions of your plants takes some experience and observation. Keeping a keen eye on root health is worth the time and effort for a healthy hydroponic system. My

Strange Root Happenings Strange root happenings can often bamboozle a new grower and some plants are more prone to these than others.The most common is the little, thick root stubs that are often seen on the lower stems of tomatoes and peppers.These are adventitious roots and while they do sometimes indicate that less then ideal conditions have occurred in the root zone, they can be quite normal on many 32

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Healthy hydroponic roots (left); roots infected with pythium (right).

Grow tents are a convenient and relatively inexpensive way to bring the greenhouse inside—Casey Jones Fraser explains why he’s a big fan…

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Jones y Casey

F ra s e r

I have wanted a greenhouse for most of my adult life. The longing started in college, where I would work with plants in the university greenhouse on campus. For a broke college student, a greenhouse was out of the question. I don’t know any students who have the time, money or sun-soaked property required for a

lights and fans. It took plenty of work and resources to build these grow rooms, not to mention time. I don’t build rooms anymore, because something better has arrived. About the time we ventured into the new millennium an innovative product began appearing on the indoor gardening scene—grow tents. These tents are box-shaped canvas enclosures supported by metal frames. Much like a camping tent, they come in a small package and quickly expand out to full size—you can set one up in an “I don’t know any afternoon, complete with all your growing students who have gear. Not every grower can buy a greenthe time, money house, but most of us can afford one of these garden huts. or sun-soaked Grow tents—also known as portable property required grow rooms or indoor greenhouses— for a working come in a variety of sizes to suit every greenhouse.” grower. I have seen models so small that they barely hold a few seedlings and models so large they can’t fit in my house! Most tents, however, are around 1.83 metres tall and some common floor plans include 0.61 by 1.22 m, 0.91 by 0.91 m, 1.22 by 1.22 m, 1.52 by 1.52 m and 3.05 by 3.05 m. Many more sizes are available from a variety of manufacturers, and all quality tents come with lightproof zippers and multiple ports for power cables and ventilation. Once the tent is Tent pictures from Urban Garden Center. Photo supplied in place, all the grower needs to by David Frazer and Noah Fecteau. supply is lights, fans and the garden— working greenhouse. The alternative, in either soil or hydroponics. my case, was carpentry and grow lights. I started building walls and door frames in the basement of my rental house—it would take a few days to build a room and I had to add ports for ventilation and power. Once the walls, doors and portholes were complete, I lined the room with reflective material before adding Photo supplied by Amber Dale, GROWaLOT Hydroponics.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

groW tents —21st CentUrY greenHoUses

“Every grow tent needs fans—even if you have some new fangled “cool-running” grow light. ” Lighting up the hut

• For a 1.22 by 1.22 m enclosure with a 0.91 by 0.91 m garden in the center: one 600 W HPS or MH. • For a 1.52 by 1.52 m enclosure with a 1.22 by 1.22 m garden in the center: one 1,000 W HPS or MH. • For a 3.05 by 3.05 m enclosure with a 2.44 by 2.44 m garden in the center: four 1,000 W HPS or MH. • For a 3.05 by 3.05 m enclosure with a 2.74 by 1.83 m garden in the center: six 600 W HPS or MH. These lighting suggestions are for indoor greenhouses where high yield and quality are desired. Lighting should be dialed back slightly for orchids. For tents with houseplants and decorative gardens, go with T5 lighting. LED lights are getting more common for grow tents, but this author is still on the fence about current LED technologies. Until conclusive results are in, I’m going to use LED lights on an experimental basis only—but if you’ve achieved good results with these diode-based lights, by all means continue to grow with them.

For young vegetative plants and mothers (donor plants), T5 lights work quite well—these lights run cooler than metal halide so they are easy to maintain in a small space, and they are lightweight so you can hang them from the support bars of your tent. For larger vegetative operations, I suggest metal halide lights on a mover. Some light-mover manufacturers are even making accessories you can use to hang the rails from your tent supports. It just keeps getting easier! For flowering plants, more intensity might be desired.You can flower plants with T5 lights if big yields aren’t the main goal for your portable grow room—the Fans and blowers plants will be healthy, but not nearly as Every grow tent needs rugged and heavy as plants flowered under fans—even if you have some HPS lights. Most of us are growing flowering annuals—such as tomatoes and sunflowers—so here are my lighting recommendations for flowering in some popular tent sizes: • For a 0.91 by 0.91 m enclosure with a 0.61 by 0.61 m garden in the center: one 400 Inexpensive stationary fans are placed in each corner, with each fan facing a different direction. W HPSor MH. 36

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

new fangled “cool-running” grow light. Your plants need air circulation and most of us require cooling fans to keep our rooms in the low to mid 20s. A gentle breeze, evidenced by leaf movement, will increase growth and deter mould. A local grower once told me he won’t use fans on his tomato plants because the movement of air makes his house smell like tomatoes and organic fertilizer. If you aren’t concerned with plant health, yield or quality, then I guess fans are optional— the rest of us will use fans and remove the organic odours with carbon filters. Circulation fans might get caught up against the canvas of your grow tent. Here we see a 15.2 centimetre net cup attached to a fan with zip ties. The net cup allows airflow and the back of the fan stays unobstructed—this ensures maximum air movement and minimum resistance. Fans

Blowers outside of tent. One blower takes air out of tent; another blower pushes air into tent.

are placed in the corners, each fan facing a different direction. This creates a vortex of air movement when the tent is closed.

Power supply Before I set up my grow tents, I had a qualified electrician install dedicated circuits for my gardens. We ran solidcore cables from the breaker box and installed the outlets on the ceiling directly above each tent. I can easily plug in all of my equipment and I have yet to trip a breaker. Once you have been trained in electrical installation, it becomes easy to add power outlets anywhere you need them, but you should never install power supplies if you are inexperienced. Instead, hire a professional. Poorly planned electrical installations can lead to fire and even death. Oscillating fans are ideal in a large room, but not for most grow tents. In this diagram, inexpensive stationary fans have been placed in each corner to create total air circulation throughout the garden space. Outside of the grow tent, we see two 15.2 centimetre blowers. The top blower is used to pull air through the carbon filter, through the HID reflector and out

of the tent and the bottom blower pushes air back into the tent. With this set-up, CO2 equipment is placed outside of the garden, where it

“Test the stud with a few quick chin-ups—if it supports your body weight it will hold your carbon filter.” can be used to supplement multiple tents in one space.

Hanging the heavies I like big heavy carbon filters and extralarge reflectors. What can I say—grow big or go home! But seriously, it gets a bit tricky mounting this heavy steel equipment over my prized plants. In a commercial greenhouse, the structure is built with heavy-duty braces, which can easily handle heavy equipment. For indoor greenhouses, the framework is only capable of handling moderate weight. Check with your local grow shop, because you might want to fortify the frame with accessories made by grow tent manufacturers. I have seen a new skeletal support system that slips over existing framework.

Hanging stud. A 90 by 38 hanging stud hangs above the tent from ceiling hooks. This stud supports heavy equipment.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

groW tents —21st CentUrY greenHoUses

oscillating fans, thermometers, CO2 controllers, etc., on the sides of your garden.

Soil or hydroponics? I have seen growers experience success with various growing methods, so you must decide for yourself whether to grow in hydro or soil. I am a big fan of soilless mixes—which look like soil, but technically are not. A fan with a 15.24-centimetre net cup, attached For soil and soilless mixes, with zip ties. you can grow in pots, grow bags, fabric containers or large beds.You might need With the extra support, you can hang all to install a drainage line in the side of of your equipment and still do chin-ups your tent near the base. This soilless bed from the crossbars. If the support system is not an option for garden is equipped with drainage, which you, you could install hooks into the ceil- is plumbed out of the tent. Heavy-duty casters are ing above your used to shift grow t ent. With the garchain or steel cables, hang a 90 den a few by 38 millimetre inches in “If you are new to growing board about a any direcindoors, these kits are 1.27 centimetres tion. If you a great way to get your from the grow choose to tent. Now you go hydro, indoor greenhouse up and can poke small consider running.” holes in the roof of your tent and screw hooks into the board. This hanging stud is supported raising your by ceiling hooks and will hold heavytent off the weight grow gear. Test the stud with a few floor—you quick chin-ups—if it supports your body can support weight it will hold your the tent with carbon filter. tables or build These DIY options have the unfortunate a fram e. With disadvantage of permanent holes in the the tent raised tent, which can cause light leaks, CO2 the hydroloss or even bug infestation. If you want ponic reservoir professional support with no holes and can sit directly no damage to the ceiling, get the slip-on on the floor frame support. under the If you need to mount gear to the walls, tent, which just pick up a hanging wall rack. These will keep your wall racks take about 30 seconds to put nutrient soluin your tent, and now you can mount tion cool as it 38

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

will not be heated by your grow lamp. In general, reservoirs will stay cooler when kept on a concrete floor. Nutrient solutions should always be at 22°C, or slightly cooler.Your hydro tray will sit on the floor of the tent, giving you maximum vertical space for plant growth.

Tent packages Nope, not that big embarrassing fold in your khakis when you sit down; I’m talking about kits that come with a grow tent, lights and various grow gear. If you are new to growing indoors, these kits are a great way to get your indoor greenhouse up and running. If your local grow store doesn’t have pre-packaged kits, find out what discounts are available if you buy everything in one shot. Most of the sales people I know in this industry have used these garden huts, so you can expect some practical advice. Check out the display tents in the shop and measure your space at home—with a small budget and a checklist, you can go from zero to pro grow in one day. Good luck and get growing! My

Grow tent set-up at Garden Grove Organics.

WorldWide opportUnities on organiC Farms (WWooF)

by Michael Bloch

WWOOF it

GoaLS: SEE THE woRLd oN a dIME, GaIN voLUNTEER ExPERIENCE, ExERCISE MoRE aNd GaIN aN EdUCaTIoN. How To aCHIEvE SaId GoaLS: wwooF

Cities can certainly make you feel trapped and disconnected from nature.You can even feel disconnected from your food since so much of what we eat is pre-packaged and heavily processed. Many folks are turning back to planting their own vegetable gardens, a tradition we lost in this country in the 1970s. This return to growing at home isn’t just about 42

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

producing food, it’s about independence; a quiet, peaceful rebellion against corporate agriculture. However, modern challenges are cropping up in our modern gardens as well, thanks to big ag businesses. Mutant seeds are more popular than heritage and heirloom seeds. A good ol’ smattering of cow dung and other natural fertilizers have been bypassed

by complex chemical and fossil-fuelbased fertilizers in glossy packaging. Even if you don’t have the space (indoors or outdoors) to grow your own food, have you ever yearned to dig in the soil and learn about food-raising practices of yore, the practices that were based on organic farming? WWOOF No, it’s not a dog with a stutter. WWOOF stands for Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms or Willing Workers on Organic Farms. It’s an organization—actually, a network of organizations throughout the world—that connect folks with organic-food growing in a very hands-on sort of way. WWOOF has been around since the early ‘70s. It’s a simple concept whereby organic farmers offer food, accommodation and training through experience in organic lifestyles in exchange for volunteer help. WWOOFing is a way to learn practical farming skills, be part of the organic agriculture movement and experience the heart of the world’s agrarian culture. It’s also a great way to see the world on the cheap and opportunities are available in literally dozens of countries around the globe.

animal husbandry or maintenance, or a combination of these areas. The volunteer, aptly named WWOOFers, purchase a membership in the country they are interested in, thereby gaining access to that list. You can receive online access to the directory of host farms or you can choose to also receive a printed and bound directory of host farms mailed to you. Next, contact the farms you are interested in visiting to check availability and make direct contact with the host to discuss hopes and expectations to agree on an arrangement for a stay. Trade agreement between hosts and volunteers can be defined any number of ways: work hours, days, length of stay, meal arrangements and accommodations. In terms of fair deal, four to six hours of labour is suggested—depending on the type of tasks involved—in exchange for meals, accommodation and education. The length of a farm stay is determined by you and the host, and can vary from a few days to a season. The key to a mutually beneficial experience is lots of clear and open discussion about expectations before arriving at the farm.

How WWOOF w orks The overseeing WWOOF organization for a particular country offers a list of organic farms who accept volunteer help in a variety of areas—planting, harvesting,

How much does it cost to be a WOOFer? The ease of gaining access to these lists is dependent on the country you’re interested in. Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

WWoof it

Can the kids join in? It appears they can in some cases, and it would make a great experience for your kids. WWOOFer members must be 18 years old or over, but some farms will let members bring their children; a few even allow pets. How fit do you have to be? While you don’t need to be a triathlete, it is expected you’ll be in reasonable shape. After all, you’ll likely be doing a lot of bending at the very least. Being a WWOOFer is a great way to get in some productive exercise. How long are WWOOF stays? They can vary greatly from a couple of nights to a couple of weeks; some even as long as a year. The length of your stay is negotiable with the host farm. • WWOOF UK The WWOOF UK host farm directory lists a plethora of organic farms (not necessarily IFOAM-registered organic) and gardens across England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. Any farm, community or garden project in the UK that is willing to host and accommodate volunteers can participate in WWOOF. With hosts ranging from a low-impact woodland settlement to a 600 hectare mixed holding with on-site farm shop, cafe and education centre, there is something for everyone. WWOOF farms offer a variety of educational opportunities, including growing vegetables, keeping bees, building straw bale houses, working with animals, making wine and much more.You can preview the directory of farms before becoming a member on the website. The host farm profile contains information about the location, general responsibilities and lifestyle of the host. Why WWOOF? WWOOF offers a rare opportunity for people to share their knowledge and efforts with others from a variety of backgrounds. It relies on trust, respect and hard work. Hosts welcome willing WWOOFers onto their property to help get work done with the intention of sharing knowledge and meeting new people while growing food for local communities. Being a WWOOFer might be appropriate if you: • are a respectful and courteous guest in the homes and on the lands of others • are interested in learning about sustainable and organic farming methods • are willing to work hard on projects and tasks presented to you Being a WWOOF host might be right if you: • will provide a safe, comfortable and welcoming environment for a volunteer 44

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•

are participating in organic or sustainable activities have projects and tasks that you could use help with are interested in sharing your knowledge with volunteers

So, if you’re looking for a very economical working holiday, organic farming training and exercise, WWOOF might be the ideal solution. My WWOOF UK: wwoof.org.uk WWOOF international: wwoof.org

WWOOF Quick Facts • The first WWOOF program was started by London secretary Sue Coppard in the United Kingdom in 1971. • WWOOF organizations are present in 50 countries worldwide. • The seven person board of directors is comprised of professionals interested in sustainable and ecological farming practices including an attorney, medical doctor and public school teachers.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Stop stressing, start growing! Here are the basic elements, strategies and steps that will help any beginner grow a hydroponic garden with ease.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

trY HYdroponiCs

A new friend recently confided, “As a beginner, I’ve been discouraged from trying hydroponics because of the many complicated elements that must be considered.” That any friend (or reader) of mine feels that hydroponics is too complex to even try is a wrong that simply must be put right. So for any other beginners feeling this way, here are some words of encouragement… Hydroponics is simply the substitution of soil with a different growing medium, and it has some definite advantages over traditional soil gardening. It tends to be more pest resistant, containers can be smaller and some hydroponic methods require either no rooting support or one made with reusable media. Unfortunately, hydroponics also has a reputation for being dauntingly complex, and this can certainly be discouraging to newbies. Part of the problem is that all too often people talk about the advanced techniques that are possible with hydroponics, but forget to mention how simple the whole process can be. Trying to learn about hydroponics by listening to

experts talk about the nuances is like someone with a learner’s permit trying to figure out how to start a car by listening to NASCAR drivers at a high-performance racing shop—the fundamentals are often not seriously explained to curious gardeners, and the basic simplicity of the practice is obscured by abbreviations and jargon. The reality of the matter is that it does not take all that much to get you around the block in hydroponics: you just need to know a few basics. Hydroponics can be rocket science (NASA does research into the use of hydroponics in space, after all), but the requirements for successfully bringing a plant to maturity hydroponically are within the reach of anyone with the desire to learn how. A person does not need an advanced degree to garden hydroponically, any more than you would require nitro boost and racing slicks just to drive to the corner grocery store and back. It is easy for a novice to become overwhelmed, but all gardeners have one thing in common; none were born experts, and at some point each grew something for the first time. Learning hydroponics is like learning to drive. The first goal is just to make it around the block. As your experience and comfort levels increase, so will the complexity of your projects and the level of your technique. There is no shame in not being as far along the learning path as someone else—there is only shame in standing still. As with all types of gardening, the elements that plants require to thrive are light, water, nutrients, air and a suitable growing temperature. A good first step in learning how to grow hydroponically is to begin by understanding how to grow a houseplant in soil. The light and environmental needs of the plant do not change when shifting from soil to a hydroponic system, and a plant that performs well under a given set of conditions in soil can generally do as well under the same conditions in a hydroponic system as long as the plant’s nutrient requirements are properly addressed. Growing a houseplant in potting soil also tends to be more forgiving of minor mistakes than hydroponic systems, so it is a less frustrating place to learn early lessons in gardening. By starting with soil, the correct conditions for lighting, temperature and air circulation can all be learned, and this knowledge will serve as your foundation for a successful first hydroponic experience. Learning how to grow the same plants hydroponically will then only require you to figure out how the application of water, nutrients and air supply to the roots will differ—once the fundamentals of how to grow a houseplant are

“Trying to learn about hydroponics by listening to experts talk about the nuances is like someone with a learner’s permit trying to figure out how to start a car by listening to NASCAR drivers at a high-performance racing shop.”

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

trY HYdroponiCs

“By starting with soil, the correct conditions for lighting, temperature and air circulation can all be learned, and this knowledge will serve as your foundation for a successful first hydroponic experience.” learned, it is just a small additional step to move on to a simple hydroponic garden. Most people don’t learn to drive in a high-performance sports car; they learn how to drive with the cheapest, most expendable vehicle in the family garage. Start with something similarly cheap, expendable and simple for your first hydroponic attempt. Perlite and other hydroponic materials tend to behave like fast-drying soils. The simplest of the hydroponic systems is called a passive system and provides a very similar experience to using traditional potting soil. A simple passive hydroponic system does not even require a mechanical pump to operate, as capillary action helps to distribute the nutrient solution throughout the medium. As long as the medium is exposed to the nutrient solution, wicking action will supply the roots with the elements they require. Here are some directions for assembling a very simple hydroponic system. 1. First, take a pot or container with drainage holes in the bottom and fill with rinsed perlite. 2. Then set the pot in a large, lipped dish or container. 3. Plant the plant in the perlite as a transplant. (Try saying that three times fast!)

Hydroponics can be as simple as media in a pot with a tray.

Catnip and other mints are a good choice for hydroponic gardening.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Then, mix the hydroponic nutrient solution as directed by the manufacturer. Nutrients designed for use in soil usually lack the micronutrients needed for hydroponic use, so use a fertilizer designed for hydroponics. Add enough nutrient solution to run through the pot and let enough collect in the bottom dish to last for one or two days. It is important that the solution is not allowed to stand for too long, or it will release its suspended oxygen and become stagnant. This type of hand-watering is labour intensive, which is one issue addressed in more advanced hydroponic systems. Active hydroponic systems tend to run on timers and can accommodate the storage of several days’ worth of nutrient solution, reducing the number of times new solution must be added. Some plants thrive in a very moist medium, and some prefer the medium to dry out a bit between waterings. Temperature and humidity have a strong influence on evaporation rate. Adjust your watering schedule as needed to keep the perlite moist without giving it more than a couple of day’s worth of solution. With a traditional houseplant or garden situation, air is supplied to the roots by the drying of the soil. In our simple hydroponic example, air is supplied to the roots by the drying of the perlite. Either way, the roots require both moisture and air to remain healthy and cannot withstand prolonged periods without either.

More complicated systems are just variations on this same basic theme of supplying water, air and nutrients to the roots. A drip system automates the watering by using a pump to drip solution at the top of the pot and collects the runoff for reuse. In an ebb and flow system the plants sit in a container that is flooded by a pump, after which the solution is allowed to drain back to a reservoir. The nutrient film technique slowly moves water at the bottom of the roots along a channel. In aeroponics, a nutrient

Peter peppers hydroponically grown in perlite.

solution sprays onto roots suspended in the air. In deep water culture, air is sprayed into the nutrient solution containing the roots. In each instance the roots are being supplied with both air and nutrient solution, and only the particulars of the delivery system change from method to method. For a slightly more advanced hydroponic system to try, consider a tabletop deep water culture hydroponic system. In deep water culture, air is supplied both by exposed roots and by aerating the nutrient solution with an air stone. The plant absorbs the nutrient solution by keeping the bottom of the roots submerged. To create a small desktop deep-water culture system, take a watertight container—glass is pretty, but keep it covered when not observing it in order to retard algae growth—and affix a support for the plant, such as crocheted netting. There are also plastic nets made expressly for this purpose. Connect an air stone to an air line and the air line to a small air pump. (Say that four times fast on Friday!) Then place the air stone in the bottom of the container and run the air line out of the top. Place the plant into the netting, allowing the roots to dangle into the container. Add enough nutrient solution to cover the bottom portion of the roots. Then turn on the air pump. Add to the solution as needed and completely change the solution every few weeks. The closer the solution matches the plant’s needs, the longer it can last between full solution replacements. Rinse out the container when changing the water. The plant is suspended by the netting, and receives air both from exposed roots and the air added to the nutrient solution. To my new friend and any others who might be thinking about trying hydroponics but have been discouraged by its reported complexity, I have a suggestion: get a pot, growing media, dish and fertilizer together and give hydroponics a try. Don’t be surprised if your success and courage build together, as well as your desire for an ever bigger and better garden. Hydroponics can be as complex and scientific as an expensive racing car—but it can also be as simple as a walk around the block… My Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Companion planting in a garden system can be complicated. Certain plants will benefit from having companion plants growing alongside them: many plants demonstrate improved overall vigour when planted together because they can help each other by fighting off pests, giving mutual shade and providing homes for beneficial insects. However, there are also plants that should not be planted together because they can cause harm to each other. Plants that are susceptible to the same diseases, moulds and parasitic insects, for example, should never be planted together.

“Many plants demonstrate improved overall vigour when planted together because they can help each other by fighting off pests, giving mutual shade and providing homes for beneficial insects.” Companion planting outdoors has been fairly widely discussed, but the idea of companion planting in hydroponics is a whole different game.Whereas most factors in the great outdoors are controlled by Mother Nature, the indoor grower must take her place in a hydroponic system. Factors such as light intensity, photoperiod, stage of plant growth—from cuttings all the way to flowering phases—EC or TDS levels, pH levels, temperature and humidity all play important roles in plant development and must be kept in mind when companion planting indoors. The pH level of the water in your reservoir has a major impact on plant growth.The pH scale is a way to measure how acidic or alkaline the water is. It ranges from one to 14, with one being the most acidic, 14 the most alkaline and seven being neutral. Plants have an ideal pH range that is generally between 5.6 and 6.8, and if the pH levels are allowed to drift outside of this range plants will begin to lockout elements, causing nutrient deficiencies.When companion planting in a hydroponic system you should choose plants with similar pH requirements—plants such as chilli peppers and violets grow well together, because their ideal pH range is 6.4 to 6.8. Electrical conductivity (EC), parts per million (ppm) and total dissolved solids (TDS) are also important to consider when companion gardening in a hydroponic system.These are different ways of measuring the general levels of nutrients in our hydroponics solution, and are essential to understand because different plants can handle different concentrations of nutrients. Many fruits and vegetables—like tomatoes, for example—need high levels of nutrients during their flowering phase, and can tolerate nutrient levels in the range of 1,500 to 2,000 ppm. Nutrient-loving plants like this should obviously not share a hydroponic garden with plants that cannot handle such high salinity levels. Plants also prefer certain nutrients in more abundant levels depending on their stage of growth. For example, plants in their vegetative stage of growth require more nitrogen in order to promote leafy growth, whereas plants in the flowering stage need more phosphoMaximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

CompAnion plAnting in HYdroponiCs

lumens) and would make good companions together under an HID bulb would be roses, tomatoes, chrysanthemums and basically any type of chilli pepper. If these plants do not receive enough light they will be lanky and weak, with little fruit or flower setting, resulting in a poor yield. Examples of plants that do best with medium light levels—3,000 to 6,000 lumens—are African violets, most leafy herbs, cucumber and lettuce.These plants will do well under a lower-wattage HID, or a larger-wattage HID rous to promote fruiting and flowering. It wouldn’t really make sense to have plants that are in their vegetative stage growing alongside plants that are flowering in a hydroponic system because these plants require different levels of nutrients to achieve their full potential. Another factor to consider when companion planting in hydroponics is light intensity, which can be measured in different ways. Lumens are a good way to measure light intensity in hydroponics—one lumen is equal to the light one candle emits onto a one square foot surface. Just like pH and EC levels, different plants can handle more intense light levels while others prefer less. Plants that need high levels of light are generally fruiting and flowering varieties, but there are many flowers that prefer medium light levels as well. Some examples of plants that love a lot of light (6,000 to 12,000

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

the leaf surfaces.These plants do best under high-output T5 fluorescent bulbs, placed 30 to 61 centimetres away from the foliage. Most cuttings and seedlings also generally do very well under the older style T12 fluorescent light bulbs, since most plants require only a minimal amount of light for the first few weeks of growth. The optimal photoperiod—or length of uninterrupted light and uninterrupted darkness that a plant receives in a day—is also important to take into account when choosing

“Each plant is a unique creature with its own special needs that must be met by the gardener in order for the plant to reach its full potential.” bulb that is placed 0.91 to 1.22 metres away from the foliage, keeping the lumens in the required range.There are also relatively new high-output T5 fluorescent light bulbs available that can be effective when placed 15 to 30 centimetres away from the foliage. Examples of plants that do best with low light levels (500 to 3,000 lumens) are bamboo, orchids, ferns and almost all seedlings and cuttings. If these low-light plants receive too much light their leaves will burn, because the water will evaporate too quickly from

plants to share a hydroponic system. Many plants need a photoperiod of 18 to 24 hours of uninterrupted light and between zero to six hours of darkness a day to remain in their vegetative state.These photoperiod-sensitive plants will also require a photoperiod of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness to flower indoors.When companion planting with hydroponics you need to separate plants in their vegetative state from those that are flowering—to have both flowering and vegetating plants at the same time will require

two separate hydroponic systems. When companion planting in hydroponic systems you must also consider the role temperature and humidity levels play in plant development. Just like all the other factors we’ve discussed, each plant has a certain preferred range of ideal temperature and humidity. Plants such as lettuce, orchids, seedlings and cuttings need a humid environment to thrive—without humidity levels of 40 per cent and up, these plants risk losing more moisture from their leaves than they can replace. Most plants need a specific temperature range maintained for them to thrive indoors as well. Drift too far out of the ideal range and plant functions will begin to slow down, then stop—and prolonged exposure to unsuitable temperature levels will eventually lead to the death of the plants. Generally, this ideal range falls between 21 to 24°C during the day and 15 to 18°C at night with the lights off. There are also many plants that prefer things a little warmer or cooler. Plants that

prefer the temperature at the cooler end of the range include lettuce, broccoli and certain species of orchids, while plants that prefer the warmer end of the temperature range include many other orchid species, chilli peppers, tropical varieties and cuttings. These plants all have specific temperature requirements and when they are not consistently maintained your yields will inevitably suffer. Each plant is a unique creature with its own special needs that must be met by the gardener in order for the plant to reach its full potential, and these distinctive requirements should be thoroughly examined and understood before attempting companion planting in any hydroponic system. First, choose plants with similar pH and EC needs and then be sure to select plants that need the same amount of light for the same photoperiod. Finally, select plants that have similar temperature and humidity requirements. Once you understand what the plants that inhabit your garden need and group the plants together accordingly, gardening success and improved yields will surely follow. My Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

ArtiCle title

SU sui n pg Bei orl o gNi c aal tP ruo dru cat sl s in the Garden It’s time to call a truce with bacteria—that is, beneficial bacteria. by Evan Folds

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

The world of the microorganism—or microbe—is another universe entirely, and one that we know relatively little about it. As Leonardo da Vinci said, “We know more about the movement of celestial bodies than we do about the soil underfoot.” In the progressive gardening industry we tend to pay closer attention, but even gardeners sometimes don’t fully understand the potential of growing plants with microbes and working with nature rather than against it. Microorganisms are microscopic—we cannot see them, but they perform herculean acts. Microbes are responsible for protecting plants and helping them eat, and even for creating the soil that supports all life on Earth. It is possible to grow plants without microbes, but this could lead to serious health care issues since microbes are required for nutrient-dense food. To grow organically is to nurture life in the soil so microbes can do all of the molecular-level work that humans cannot do and tend to take for granted. There’s another universe under our feet. There are potentially billions of microorganisms and hundreds of metres of fungal hyphae in a single teaspoon of quality compost. Microbes are so abundant, so pervasive in everything we do, that it’s easy to be confused by astronomical numbers when discussing their function in products like compost or compost teas. Nonetheless, don’t believe the hype. Although up to 500,000 bacteria can fit in the period at the end of this sentence, large numbers are not the essential part of the equation. The number of microbes present One way to in a biological sample is nowhere utilize microbes in the garden near as important as the diversity is by brewing and strength of the organisms. compost tea. These qualities cannot be measured or seen under a microscope.

The soil food web The soil food web is a term that encompasses all the life forms found in soil, like the big fish and the little fish in the ocean. There is a series of checks and balances among the organisms in the soil that allows for life to thrive, and the successful grower must keep this in mind. Because our understanding of the universe underfoot is so limited, the challenge for growers is not just adding specific microbes to address a particular situation, but also making sure they are distributing a full spectrum of microbes so that the ones required will take hold and begin to reproduce. Most of us are familiar with mycorrhizal fungi, for example. There is a known selectivity between specific plants and specific endo-mycorrhizal products. However, if you check the products on garden store shelves, you will notice that they are not plantspecific. Instead, formulators include all strains of Mycorrhizae in their products in order for the ones that are required in the specific ecosystem being treated to predominate. The same is true for other forms of microorganisms. Assuming you are starting with a well-balanced biological product, there are basically two ways for the grower to utilize microbes: either directly in the garden or by brewing compost tea.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

sUper nAtUrAls

Using microbes d i r e c t ly i n t h e garden

The biodynamic preparation BD500 is created by burying the horn of a cow filled with manure during the winter months. The telluric energy of the Earth is focused by the horn and potentizes it into a substance sufficient to treat four acres of land.

Simply put, if you are growing a garden without the help of microbes you’re not getting the most out of it. Microbes and plants are natural teammates, so inoculating your garden with beneficial microbes is a step in the right direction. This maxim applies to all growing situations—from developing good organic potting soil to growing hydroponically. There are gardening stores all over this country with literally hundreds of synthetic fertilizer products for sale that create a growth response in plants, but not necessarily a healthy one. Most of these products are NPK synthetics, hormones or stimulants, raw organic inputs and some manufactured biology. Sadly, most stores don’t even have shelf space for natural, biological products. In any discussion of the benefits of microbial applications in growing we tend to see a lot of misconceptions. For instance, many growers think that bat guano, on its own, is plant food. Bat guano can create a growth response in plants, but only a small fraction of it is soluble and plant-available; most of it is made plant-available by microbes. In a forest, the plants don’t eat the

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

leaves that fall; they eat what the microbes make of the fallen leaves. Microbes make plant food. Some growers are reticent to use biological products in hydroponics, but a hydroponic system is arguably the place one would want to use them most because a hydro system consists of entirely sterile components by design. Even the growing media—rockwool, coir fibre, hydroton and so on—is sterile. Microbes cannot simply manifest in hydroponic systems, which are normally set up indoors in completely artificial environments. This is where inoculation comes in. Without the conscious addition of beneficial microbes, they will not be present in a hydroponic system. More importantly, without them you are inviting bad microbes, accidentally introduced, to run rampant and unchecked. This is the source of diseases such as pythium, fusarium or damping off. Using beneficial microbes—even in cloning machines—brings balance and allows a grower to begin to bring the healthy aspects of the outdoors in. Many claim that salt-based hydroponic fertilizers will kill beneficial microbes, but this is not entirely true. It’s true that artificial salts do not help microbes—the salts don’t represent a food source—but this idea is actually born of landscaping issues. When artificial salts are used continually on a lawn, they build up to toxic levels that result in compaction, disease, weeds and other lawn issues. When growing in hydroponics, however, gardeners use flushing solutions to prevent a buildup of salts to this toxic level. In other words, any concentration of salts sufficient to kill microbes would also affect the growing plant and so they must be flushed away. There are several biological products on the market serving as flushing solutions, and microbes themselves will actually help mitigate salt toxicity in hydroponic systems.

Microbes can set up shop anywhere. The porosity evident in hydroponic media is actually ideal for accommodating beneficial microbes. For instance, hydroton is routinely used in aquaponic systems, which work by using bacteria to process fish waste into plant food. Try sprinkling a biological inoculant into your medium starts, slabs or cubes as a comparison test. Use it in some cubes or slabs and not others, and note the dramatic growth increases.You should also consider fortifying your medium with beneficial microbes. Even good organic potting soil can benefit from inoculation. There are great benefits to hydroponic growth, but there are also great benefits to the living aspects of soil—it’s time to get the benefit of both.

Compost Tea Compost tea is a living solution. By using a premium humus product as the biological inoculant and growing the microbes contained in it to extremely high concentrations in an aerated water solution comprised of food sources and catalysts, the power of the soil food web can become fully available to your plants. Compost tea is extremely cost-effective to brew. It is so cost-effective, in fact, that some gardening stores provide it free to their customers—a great way to introduce people to the world of microbes. It’s pretty amazing how many people out there are scared of microbes or have never considered the fact that the soil is alive in the first place. We aren’t taught the benefits of these primal relationships in school; we’re taught to use hand sanitizer. If you have never used microbes or compost tea in your garden, now is the time to consider it.You can buy microbial spores and microbial products in gardening stores, but these products harness only a fraction of the power of the soil food web, so make sure to source your biology from a product derived on a living farm if possible. My Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Contain Yourself:

Reasons to

ConsideR Conside

ContaineR Containe

GARDENING by HeatHeR bRautman

If you’ve grown something in a Styrofoam cup as a child you’ve already done some container gardening—but there’s a whole world of new possibilities out there for today’s grower…

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Nobody puts Baby in the corner (according to the late, great Patrick Swayze), but put Baby in a container—if she’s a seedling—you might just have something.You too can have the time of your life in very small spaces through the joy of container gardening. While it might seem limiting at first, what you could find is that container gardening is a way to broaden—not limit—your gardening possibilities. Trying to describe exactly what container gardening encompasses might be a little too much like trying to stuff 7.57 litres of growing medium into a 3.79 litre pot. Container gardening is a way of growing that lets you customize your greenery and growth for any circumstance—this means you can container garden if you live in a 46.45 square metre sixth-floor walkup or a multi-acre plot in the country. In fact, one of the biggest pros of container gardening is just how much about it is up to you, which takes us to the first in our list of seven reasons to consider container gardening.

windowsill and start growing your own salad fixings. Suddenly, you’re a trendsetter—you’re not only growing your own, but you’re reducing your waste footprint by upcycling as well!

“While it might seem limiting at first, what you could find is that container gardening is a way to broaden—not limit—your gardening possibilities.”

you’re the king of the world Not everyone can be Leonardo DiCaprio—but you can be the king (or queen) of your own world through container gardening. Container gardening removes any limits that might be imposed on you by climate, seasonal growth patterns or even the kind of restrictions you sometimes encounter if you live in an apartment or condo, which doesn’t allow outside planting. With container gardening, you can grow what you like.

upcycling: not just for hipsters If you’ve been to a craft show or visited DIY websites such as Etsy.com, you’ll have noticed the term ‘upcycling.’ Suddenly, recycling just isn’t good enough— now you need to find newer, better uses for your stuff instead of just sorting it out at the curb. With container gardening, you’ve got the perfect excuse to upcycle. Check around your home for throwaways like yogurt cartons, coffee cans and even old planters and pots relegated to your garage. As the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension puts it, “If it holds soil, it’s a container.” All of these items would make ideal homes for your new container garden—in fact, smaller items such as those old (cleaned out, of course) yogurt containers are the ideal size to line a

Choose your own adventure With container gardening, you have so many choices—and each choice you make will reveal something about you as a gardener.You’ve got your choice of the actual containers you’ll be growing in, but then you also get to choose your growing medium. In most cases soil and nutrients will be the options you’ll choose, but don’t rule out hydroponics. In many cases hydroponics is container gardening—just on a much larger scale. Once you open up to that option, you’ll have choices like coco coir, rockwool, perlite and other media in which to house your soon-to-be lush greenery. And of course you’ll also get to choose what you plant. It doesn’t matter any more if you only get sun three hours a day (for plants that need massive sun exposure daily) or if you experience morning cold snaps that would be deadly to fragile new growth—container gardening makes all of that irrelevant.

a gift for growing gifts Whether you already have a thumb so green it’s verdant or you’re just starting out, container gardening can make gift-giving easy. Remember that joy

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

ContAin YoUrself

“you can grow all the elements you need to make an entire salad, herbs and spices to soup up sauces, plus fruits and vegetables to round out the meal.”

you felt as a child being able to say, “I made it myself?” Whether it was a macaroni face on a plate or a strange, floppy piece of pottery, DIY always seemed to mean more than store-bought. With container gardening, you get to say ‘GIY’—you grew it yourself. Got a friend who loves those lavender sachets? Decorate a few pots and get planting the real thing. Of course, good things come to those who wait—you’ll need to plan in advance if you’re going to grow your own gifts so that they’ll be fresh and ready when it’s time to bestow them on their eager recipients.You can even do themes—say, sprigs of mint in red-and-green painted pots for Christmas.

menu master You probably can’t grow everything you need for a three-course meal in your container garden—but this doesn’t mean your container garden can’t contribute in a big way to your meal planning.You can grow all the elements you need to make an entire salad, herbs and spices to soup up sauces, plus fruits and vegetables to round out the meal. In many cases, you might even find yourself consulting the garden before you plan your menu—what’s sprouting, ripe and ready to pluck might be what’s for dinner that evening.

Going the extra mile One of the biggest pluses of container gardening is just how flexible it really is. There’s no competition—you

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

don’t have to worry about whether your neighbour has five azalea bushes that have bloomed before yours even took root. The container-garden ball is entirely in your corner, and whether you want to bunt, kick or knock it out of the park is up to you. If you’d like to take things further, you can enhance your container garden with options such as grow lights (available from hydroponics stores), automatic waterers and more.You can also move the containers (another big bonus of container gardens is their portability) throughout the day to take advantage of the best sunlight. Depending on what you’re growing, a wealth of additives and nutrients to encourage bloom and taste can also be part of your daily routine—if you want it to. But you can also just fill a few containers with soil, plunk in your seeds or cuttings and enjoy the fruits (and vegetables) of your hard labour at your own pace.

the truth is out there (Also known as “we are not alone.”) Container gardening might seem, well, rather contained. It’s something you can do entirely on your own—but you don’t have to. Maybe you’re wondering how to get started, maybe you want to know what’s best to buy or maybe you want to find expert advice. While a quick check of the Internet can “plant the seeds” for you to get started, dig a little deeper to learn from those who really know. Novice and long-term container gardeners will find truly helpful information on many college websites—especially ones with agricultural extensions. Some websites offer suggestions on containers, watering, media and lighting and a list of recommended vegetables, herbs, fruits and flowers that do well in container gardening applications. There are also many books (in both print and electronic versions), web tutorials, videos and free sessions at gardening stores and local gardening clubs just waiting to help you get started. My

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

The Dos and Don'ts of Hot Pepper Eating by Karen Wilkinson

Some people run marathons to challenge their bodies and minds. Others enjoy solving crossword puzzles, while some prefer sweating their hearts out in hot yoga or beneath the sweltering sun while tending to their vegetable and herb gardens. 64

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

e all have our choice ways of “reaching our edge,” as my yoga instructors put it. Whether it’s growing the biggest, baddest crop; scaling a mountain; or building up to a crazy, you-shouldn’t-bend-that way pose, one thing eventually becomes clear: the body can handle more than you might think. It’s the mind that tries to get in the way. This adage is especially true when testing your limits (and taste buds) in the hot-pepper-eating world. Though it’s certainly not for the faint of heart, eating spicy vegetables has health benefits not derived from other foods. For instance, while it doesn’t directly promote weight loss, it helps you maintain your figure by boosting metabolism. And all peppers—hot or not—contain vitamins high in antioxidants, such as vitamins A, B, C and K. They’re also a popular natural remedy to help fight sinus infections, alleviate pain, regulate blood pressure and circulation and even kill cancer cells. All contain capsaicin—the hot chemical that create the firelike feeling in your mouth— which signals the brain to release endorphins that in turn heighten our good, fuzzy feelings. Fancy way to beat depression! Aside from the many health perks (the Internet has way more information on this subject) peppers offer, they’re kind of just, well, fun. Albeit intense, hot-pepper eating is a way to train the mind to handle more than it thinks possible. And who doesn’t want that. On that note, the daring (some may say silly or stupid) folks at EZ-CLONE Enterprises, Inc., have dabbled in the spicier side of pepper eating lately and, after much pain and suffering, have these words

of wisdom to share for those considering popping a hottie.

DO:

• Absolutely have something of substance in your belly before swallowing one. After hearing horror stories of people literally hitting the floor after eating a Ghost pepper, this here writer ate yogurt before trying one. It still hurt, but it probably would have hurt more on an empty stomach. • Start off slow, then gradually work your taste buds up to the real heat, says research and development manager Scott Thompson-Montague (A.K.A. Cpt. Save a Plant). As with any physical challenge, you don’t want to go beyond your actual limitations the first time. Instead, build the tolerance to move onto hotter stuff eventually. • If you need to drink something, make it a liquid rich in oils and fats, says accountant Robert Grossklaus. He suggests a shot of olive oil. Office manager Jack Jimenez is a fan of chugging a cup o’ joe. “I like to have coffee with cream and sugar handy because that is my personal

•

recipe for success he says. “Drink a little before, eat the pepper and chase with a little more coffee—I have been successful so far!” If you’re not a spicy food fanatic, Jack recommends eating the pepper from the seed side first “because the bulk of them stay in the skin and don’t actually hit your pallet.” If you are accustomed to hot foods, however, chew the pepper to enjoy its flavour and savour the burn, Robert says. Chew gum afterward to help take the burn off the tongue, said designer Zury De La Cerda. When the heat is too much to bear, do a little hot pepper dance to make the pain go away, says national sales rep Chelsea Lawson. Distractions are key.

DON’T

• Don’t be scared, Robert and Scott say. The only thing between you and this experience is you. So just like jumping out of a plane, take the pepper plunge knowing you’ll land on your feet (though some people land on their bottoms after skydiving). • Don’t lick your lips after eating a pepper, maybe for a few hours depending on the heat, Chelsea says. • As well, don’t rub your eyes or any other sensitive body parts with your hands after touching those bad boys. Learning this the hard way is never fun. • And lastly, as with everything in life, don’t forget to have fun! My

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Measuring Light Intensity by Philip McIntosh

Historically light intensity has been measured in a number of ways. It is complicated by the fact that light is something that we humans perceive in a specific way. Our eyes are sensitive to only a small fraction of the total electromagnetic spectrum, and our thoughts about what light is are influenced by this limited perception. The light requirement for a reading room is different from that of an office space, which is in turn different from that of a factory floor. Early light research was focused on human perceptions and needs, so it was biased toward the view from the human eye窶馬ot the view from the photosystems of plants. Plants have their 66

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

own specific requirements that are not aligned with those of humans.You will see the terms candelas, lumens, footcandles, candlepower, lux, moles, Einsteins and photosynthetic photon flux density used to describe light in relation to plants and photosynthesis. So, what do these terms mean?

Candlepower Candlepower (cp) is an obsolete unit of luminous intensity based on the light emitted from a specific type of candle (in England the candles had to be made of pure spermaceti weighing 1∕6 of a pound and burning at a specified rate; that should tell you how obsolete this unit really is). Candlepower was deprecated in 1948 and there is really no excuse for still using it.

Footcandles Another obsolete unit, the footcandle (fc) (also written as foot candle or footcandle) is a unit of luminance equivalent to the light shining on a surface placed one foot away from a source that has the intensity of one candle (a candlepower of one). Although you might still see footcandles (or even candlepower) in older literature and even on some light metres, this is now the preferred luminance unit.

Candelas The candela (cd) replaced candlepower as the SI unit of luminous intensity. It is defined as the luminous intensity in a given direction of a source emitting 555 nanometres radiation with a radiant intensity of 1/683 watt per steradian (sr). Steradian, now there’s a unit you don’t come across every day! A steradian is roughly the area covered by 1∕12 of a sphere having a radius of one unit. The 555 nanometres wavelength (green) was chosen to correspond to the wavelength of highest sensitivity of the human eye when adapted to bright conditions. Perhaps you can already see a problem with the fact that green light was chosen as a part of the definition and method of producing a standard reference source for the candela—this is not an efficient wavelength for plant photosynthesis.

Lumens The lumen (lm) is the SI unit of luminous flux (meaning something like “flow

of light”), and is best thought of as a unit of perceived light power or total visible light from a source. High-output lights are perceived to be brighter and have more power than dim ones, thus they output more lumens. A lumen is based on the unit the candela, and represents a light source with a radiance of one cd/ sr. Keep in mind that even though a light source looks dimmer the farther you are from it, it still outputs the same number of lumens; however, there is less light energy falling on a surface as the source is placed farther away.

Lux The lux is the SI unit of luminance. Lux gives the number of lumens per square yard (the luminance) on a surface. For example, if a luminous flux of 100 lm is shone on an area of one square yard, the luminance is 100 lux. One hundred lm concentrated on a 25.81 square centimetre surface results in an luminance of 10,000 lux since the luminance is 100 times as high since the area of a 25.81 by 25.81 square centimetre surface is 1/100 the area of a square yard. Also, for those who run across footcandle measurements in old books or on light metres, one fc is equivalent to 10.764 lux. Knowing this does not give any information about how much of that is light is actually useful for plants.

Moles, Einsteins and Photon Flux Density The mole (mol) is Avogadro’s number of any kind of discrete particle. Avogadro’s number, 6.022 x 1023, shows up all over the place in physics and chemistry. As a simplified example of how it’s used: if you have one mole of oxygen atoms, you have 6.022 x 1023 oxygen atoms. If a mole of oxygen atoms is combined with two moles of hydrogen atoms you will get one mole of water (H2O). Named for the scientist (in honour of his 1905 description of the photoelectric

effect, in which certain materials eject electrons when struck by light), the Einstein (E) is a unit (but, not an SI unit) of quantized light energy. The Einstein is sometimes mistakenly described as one mole of photons of any wavelength. However, it is really the amount of energy (in joules/mol) of mole photons of a given wavelength. A mole of photons is quite a lot, so, in plant research, photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) measurements are reported in microEinsteins per second per square yard (micro = one-millionth). Or, to be consistent with SI units, micromol per second per square yard. These data are collected using sensors that essentially count all the photons in the range from around 300 nanometres to 700 nanometres. This is also known as the photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD) or photosynthetic photon flux (PPF). My Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

YOU TELL US

OdorChem Maximum Yield recently sat down with OdorChem to talk about how they’re working to eliminate odours—big or small—in an environmentally friendly way… Maximum Yield (MY): How did your company get started? Did it evolve out of something else, or has combatting odour always been the company focus? Ray Therrien: Our founder and president, Shane Lander, was a fire fighter who specialized in hazardous materials when he became interested in finding a safe and natural method for eliminating the nasty odour’s these chemicals left behind after a major fire. Soon afterward Shane established both a business relationship with a chemist who would eventually perfect our special formula (now a trade secret) that is strong enough to use in industrial applications, yet safe to use around people, pets and plants.

Originally, the company focused solely on industrial applications; however we then found out that one of our commercial customers had introduced ONA—the brand for commercial and residential applications—into the hydro industry and we never looked back. MY: How do your products actually work? What are the chemical processes involved? Ray: ONA is an essential-oil-based technology that utilizes 32 essential oils to neutralize a wide spectrum of odours. There are three mechanisms of action that can occur: Absorption: the process in which molecules of a substance are attracted, absorbed and distributed uniformly within ONA molecules. Adsorption: the process where substance molecules are attracted and held on the surface of ONA by chemical bonds. Chemical Reaction: the process where two or more odours can cancel each other out when they attract and permanently bond. MY: What is the environmental impact of your products? Ray: The compounds that are used in ONA odour neutralizers are high-grade quality, derived from plant materials and safe for the environment. Essential oils are non-toxic and have a long history of being used in things like cosmetics, incense, and food. ONA’s packaging materials are also all made of recyclable materials. MY: Some of your products come in pails with fans built right in to them—is this a new development in odour removal? Does this approach work on a large scale? Ray: It may appear that our fans are built into our products, but we actually make our fans to fit on top of our four litre and 20 litre pails. This gives customers the option to use a fan if they need a higher rate of ONA disbursed into the air or need to neutralize odours in a larger room. Our gel products dispense ONA into the air by evaporation, so airflow is important for larger scale applications since ONA will only neutralize odour molecules it comes into contact with.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

MY: Who is responsible for coming up with new products? Ray: Fulfilling our customers’ needs continually drives new product development here at Odorchem. For example, our product development in commercial applications—like those used in the hydro market—is primarily focused on fans and dispensers that help our customers use our products more cost effectively. Whether we are developing chemicals or equipment, our product development team always includes our sales and production teams, our chemists and senior management. This strategy helps ensure that we are providing a solution that best meets our customers’ requirements. MY: What is the largest commercial application you’ve seen your products used in? What are some of the challenges associated with large commercial projects? Ray: Sewage treatment plants and food rendering plants generally require the largest volumes ONA’S production line of odour neutralizer. Larger commercial or industrial applications all have their own unique challenges and there isn’t one simple step or product or dispenser to solve problems. emergencies. For example, we were once called in when raw We customize our formula if needed and custom build dispenssewage had backed into the overflow ponds. We loaded a plane ing system that will deliver the exact amount of odour neutralwith our chemical and sprayed the overflow ponds. On its first izer needed to resolve their odour problem. pass the pilot reported that he almost vomited in the cockpit; In many applications ONA is used only as a backup system for however, on his second pass he couldn’t smell the sewage at all. Regrettably, the largest application where ONA has been used was at ground zero after 9/11. Shane volunteered and flew to New York to set up large spray systems that provided odour and dust control to help workers with the enormous task of cleaning up debris. MY: What have you got in R&D? What’s going to be the next big thing in your corner of the industry? Ray: We have several projects currently in R&D. For many years we have been working on developing new scents that are more consumer-friendly. ONA only comes in three different scents and the reason for this is that our core neutralizer is so strong that it neutralizes most of the scents we try to add to it. To be successful with this particular mission, we’re relying heavily on leading-edge advances in chemistry. My

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

TALKING SHOP

AT A GLANCE Company: Greenfinger-Hydroponics Owners: Nigel and Natalie Piper Location: Unit 3 Park Works, 16-18 Park Rd., Kingston-Upon-Thames, Surrey, KT2 6BX +44 (0) 208 546 3444 Unit 59 T Marchant Estate, 42-72 Verney Rd., South Bermondsey, SE16 3DH +44 (0) 207 394 0629 Unit 38 Silicon Business Centre, 28 Wadsworth Rd., Perivale, UB6 7JZ +44 (0) 208 998 2034 Email: greenfingerhydroponics@btconnect.com Website: greenfinger-hydroponics.co.uk Motto: “Are you Growing Our Way?”

Greenfinger has a strong backbone of great employees that love to put hydroponics to some artistic uses… It’s been a fantastic 17 years of hard work, good customers, helpful wholesalers and droponics and that enthusiasm has always been the driving force behind our business. shortly to become 12 upon completion

of our latest protégé’s intensive glasshouse business: they stand out in an oversaturated and cynical marketplace. In fact, we take it as a compliment when a competitor tries to poach one of our helpful and experienced employees. So far, no one’s succeeded... able for us and the customers. The divercan cater for every grower: from beginner to expert, from small to large scale enterprises. The secret to our success? Spending time building relationships with our customers—relationships that make the place to browse, shop, get sound advice and receive great afterpurchase support. It’s a delight to still see some of our original customers from the 1990s—the real pioneers of indoor growmit that we learned much from many of of them. Over the years we’ve also stayed ahead of the game by sourcing the best

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Frank (left) and Pat of CropHydro

equipment, the hardiest nutrients and the highest-quality systems. We work hard to Recently, there’s been increasing interest in container growing and customers report great results from some of today’s specialist mixes. So, we’re working with Pat Smith and the team from the best products and knowledge in this ent Shiva is hugely popular in the United States, Japan and Australia. For the last nine months, we’ve tuned Pat’s original Kingdom market. It’s taken time and you’ll love it. Shiva’s performance will also excite hydro growers—there’s nothing like it on the market today. As industry specialists, we’re often approached by companies and individuals who need expert advice. It’s a great way for us to be creative with hydroponics are doing. One of our biggest successes was working with installation artist Mike Nelson. Mike had a £50,000 grant to promote the new Turner gallery being built in Margate. We helped him create a full guerrilla-style hydroponic installation

"Persuading our staff to drop their tough guy images and bake some cakes was easier than expected." out more about Mike’s show in Margate at guardian.co.uk/culture/2005/nov/10/art). We’ve added to these credentials with three other artists, two design companies, ITV, the Chelsea Flower Show, several architects, the Ideal Home Show, a TV commercial for Kodak and three movies—Harry Brown, The Big I Am, and SW9. The only thing we haven’t done so far is panto, but who knows what the future holds? for Macmillan Cancer Support. Persuadimages and bake some cakes was easier than expected. Our generous customers tolerated some truly appalling cooking and raised over £750.00—enough to fund a Macmillan nurse for a week. Moving forward in 2012, we’ve opened our new shop in Perivale, London. It’s

parking, a private loading bay, on-site forklift, great display areas, and masses coco in a hurry? No problem. As in our other stores, our main goals in this new location are to know our products, keep attend seminars, workshops and trade shows, both here and on the continent—maintain stock so that your trip is friendly shopping experience in the UK and keep our prices fair. So, feel welcome to visit. Come to browse, chat and see the new place, and if Natalie’s there you’ll even get a cup of tea. Also be sure to keep your eyes open for to check us out online at

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

INDUSTRY’S LATEST

ArtiCle title

FRESh INDUSTRy NEwS AND ANNOUNCEmENTS, pLUS EXCLUSIvE GIvEAwAyS FOR GROwERS

root!t soCiAl mediA

Want to find out more about ROOT!T, the latest innovation in propagation? You are now able to follow ROOT!T on Twitter (@Propagateplants), Facebook and Google+. This is a great way to keep you upto-date on the ROOT!T range of propagation products. ROOT!T will also update you with the latest hints and tips on propagation from seedlings and cuttings.

AutoPot’s CommerCiAl triAls

For 2012, AutoPot has two commercial trials within the United Kingdom to test and demonstrate the ease of use and great potential of their growing systems. The trial at Brill View Nurseries, already well underway, consists of 1,000 chilli plants using 500 AutoPot easy2grow systems. See how well it’s going at autopot.co.uk/autopot-watering-system-trial before the chillies are harvested in July. The Valley Grown Nurseries AutoPot Trial, set up at the end of December, is also now established. There are two varieties of peppers being grown in two rows of 44 AutoPot easy2grow systems, each supplied by a 225 L waterbutt. Visit the AutoPot website for time-elapsed video and narrated videos that explain the progression of the trial, and tips for using these same growing systems at home.

esseNtiAls soCiAl mediA

When running a hydroponic growroom or greenhouse, good management of nutrient solution and general growroom hygiene should be high on your list of priorities. The ESSENTIALS range of professional growroom products provides plants with better growing conditions and will reward you with faster growth and more yield. You can now find ESSENTIALS on Facebook, Twitter and Google+. Follow ESSENTIALS for product information—as well as hints and tips about maintaining a successful growroom—and use #EssentialsGrow to connect to the brand.

lumii soCiAl mediA

Want regular updates on LUMii’s complete lighting range? You can now follow LUMii on Twitter (@ALUMiiLighting), Facebook and Google+. These social media networks are a great way of keeping yourself updated with the latest products and information, as well as hints and tips on lighting systems.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

ColleCt CANNA PoiNts!

Now you can collect CANNA points when purchasing CANNA nutrients. The more points you collect, the bigger the prizes you can get. Redeem your CANNA points for CANNA additives, CANNA beanbags or even a CANNA bicycle. Just find your unique CANNA code on each bottle you buy and enter it on the CANNA website (canna-uk.com) to redeem your points.

9th ANNuAl sAN FrANCisCo iNdoor GArdeNiNG exPo—New loCAtioN, BiGGer VeNue! Join Maximum Yield Publications as we host the 9th Annual San Francisco Indoor Gardening in the City by the Bay this July. This year’s event will be double the size of past shows, so to accommodate this growth we’ll be hosting at a new location: the San Francisco Concourse. Attendees will be in for a real treat seeing so many products from around the world all under one roof. General visitors day is July 22 and admission is $10. For complete event details, directions to the venue, an interactive floor plan, list of exhibitors and more, visit indoorgardeningexpo.com

VitAliNk soCiAl mediA

Ever wondered what is new with VitaLink? Well now you can follow them to find out. VitaLink has recently launched Facebook and Twitter (@TheVitaLink), meaning you can keep up-to-date with all that is new with the brand. Keep well-informed and see all of the VitaLink news, photos, product information, tips and hints.

NEW

LA LOCARGER TION!

San Francisc o Concours e

635 8th Stre (at Brannan)et

DO YOU KNOW?

Chemically, the only difference between ascorbic acid vitamin C and citric acid is that citric acid has one additional oxygen atom.

Root thickness is influenced by temperature, with thinner roots seen under warmer growing conditions, although this varies somewhat between species.

One definition of “real food” is when you make it yourself, when it’s not processed and when the source is considered.

when companion planting in a hydroponic system you should choose plants with similar ph requirements—plants such as chilli peppers and violets grow well together, because their ideal ph range is 6.4 to 6.8.

wwOOF is not a dog with a stutter; it stands for worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms or willing workers on Organic Farms.

6. 7.

most recirculating drip systems involve inert hydroponic media whereas water-towaste systems use soil or hydroponic mediums.

plants have their own specific light requirements, which are not aligned with those of humans. The best way to measure and set up light for plants boils down to ppFD, or photometric units.

The citric acid in lemon juice will dissolve a pearl.

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

MAX-MART

The Future’s Bright... The Future’s Green 600w grow light kits for £60–the cheapest in the UK! Unit 3, Park Parade Industrial Estate, Ashton-under-Lyne, Manchester OL6 7PP

Tel: 0161 339 1673 | Mobile: 07968 123456

www.ashton-hydroponics.co.uk

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

1st Hydroponics Unit 5 K-Line House, West Rd. Ipswich, Suffolk UK IP3 9FG Tel: +44 (0) 1473 279829 www.1st-hydroponics.co.uk 21st Century Garden Unit # A6., Bounds Green Ind. Es., Ringway London, Greater London UK N11 2UD Tel: +44 (0) 2083 614659 www.21stcenturygarden.co.uk 3 Counties Hydroponics Unit 52, Robert Court Ind.E s. Britten Rd. Reading, Berkshire UK RG2 0AU Tel: +44 (0) 1189 874758 3 Counties Hydroponics The Lodge, 113 Invicta Rd. Dartford, Kent UK DA2 6AY Tel: +44 (0) 1322 273444 3 Counties Hydroponics Unit 13., Chiltern Bus. Ctr. Cowley, Oxford UK OX4 6NG Tel: +44 (0) 1865 771747 3 Counties Hydroponics Unit #11, Olds Close, Olds Approach Watford, Herts UK WD18 8RU Tel: +44 (0) 1923 774486 3 Countries Hydroponics Unit 12., Yew Tree Ind. Es., Mill Hall Aylesford, Maidstone UK ME20 7ET Tel: +44 (0) 1622 790456 3 Countries Hydroponics Unit 10., Woodley Yard Cherstsey Bridge Rd. Chertsey, Surrey UK KT16 8LF Tel: +44 (0) 1932 562174 3 Countries Hydroponics Unit 9., Galley Hill Yard Waltham Abbey, Essex UK EN9 2AG Tel: +44 (0) 1992 652301 A-Zee Hydro Ltd. Unit C4, Suttons Bus. Ctr.New Rd. Rainham, Essex UK RM13 8DE Tel: +44 (0) 1708 551199 Acorn Horticulture 65 Deep Ln. Sheffield, UK S5 0DU Tel: +44 (0) 1142 458581 www.acornhorticulture.co.uk Addloes Lighting & Hydroponics 16-A Maple Rd., Winton Bourmouth, Dorset UK BH9 2PN Tel: +44 (0) 1202 524525; www.addloes.com Allbright #6., The Rise Edgware, Middlesex UK HA8 8NR Tel: +44 (0) 2089 582426 Amazing Garden Supplies (Bridgend) Unit 6 Eastlake Close., Litchard Ind. Es. Bridgend, South Wales UK CF31 2AL Tel: +44 (0) 1656 663030 Amazing Garden Supplies (Bristol) Unit 3 Moravian Bus.Pk., Moravian Rd. Kingswood, Bristol UK BS15 8NF Tel: +44 (0) 1179 605566 Anglia Hydroponics 62 A Straight Rd. Boxted, Colchester, Essex UK C04 5RD Tel: +44 (0) 1206 272677 www.angliahydroponics.co.uk Aquaculture Unit 79 (A) Carlton Ind. Es. Barnsley, South Yorkshire UK S71 3HW Tel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk Aquaculture Unit 3, Asher Ln. Bus. Pk. Asher Ln. Ripley, Derbyshire UK DE5 3RE Tel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk Aquaculture Unit #3, Pkwy One, Pkwy Dr. Sheffield, South Yorkshire UK S9 4WU Tel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Listed alphabetically by shop name.

Aquatech Horticultural Lighting Unit 3F, Spa Fields Ind. Es. New St. Slaithwait Huddersfield, West Yorkshire UK HD7 5BB Tel: +44 (0) 1484 842632 Ashton Hydroponics Ltd. Unit 3 Park Parade Ind. Es. Welbeck St. S. Ashton-Under-Lyna, Manchester UK O4L 67PP Tel: +44 (0) 1613 391673 www.ashton-hydroponics.co.uk Aztec Garden Unit 1A Roughan Ind.Es. Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk UK IP30 9ND Tel: +44 (0) 1359 271876 www.aztec-garden.co.uk Basement Lighting Ltd. Unit #3, The Old Maltings, George St. Newark, Nottinghamshire UK NG24 1LU Tel: +44 (0) 1636 650189 Big Stone River Garden Center Unit #1 East Gate Grimsby, Lincolnshire UK DN3 29BA Tel: +44 (0) 1472 241114 Blooming Borders Unit 3, Borders Bus Pk. Longtown Carlisle, Cumbria UK CA6 5TD Tel: +44 (0) 1228 792587 www.bloomingbordersltd.co.uk Bradford Hydroponics 9597 Manningham Ln. Bradford, West Yorkshire UK BD1 3BN Tel: +44 (0) 1274 729205 www.bradfordhydroponics.co.uk Branching Out Unit #E, The Old Brewery, Durnford St. Ashton Gate, Bristol UK BS3 2AW Tel: +44 (0) 1179 666996 www.hydroponics-online.co.uk Bright Green UK Ltd. 42-44 Princess Rd., Hull, Yorkshire UK HU5 2RD Tel: +44 (0) 1482 341925 www.brightgreen-uk.co.uk Brit Crops Ltd Unit 9 OJ’s Ind. Pk.Claybank Rd. Portsmouth, Hampshire UK PO3 5SX Tel: +44 (0) 2392 669111 www.britcropshydroponics.co.uk Britlite Hydroponics Unit 11 Roman Ind. Es. Croydon, UK CRO 2DT Tel: +44 (0) 2086 834424 www.britelite-hydroponics-uk.com Chrissie’s Garden Unit 33 Portsmouth Enterprise Ctr. Quartermain Rd. Portsmouth, UK PO3 5QT Tel: +44 (0) 2392 667887 Clever Green 35 Ketley Bus. Pk. Waterloo Rd., Telford, Shropshire UK TF1 5JD Tel: +44 (0) 1952 257200 www.clevergreen.co.uk Crofters Bio Gardens Unit 2, Bloomsgrove Ind. Es.Ilkeston Rd. Radford, Nottingham UK NG7 3JB Tel: +44 (0) 1159 782345 www.croftersbiogardens.com Discount Hydroponics 1 Bus. Bldg. Waltergrave St. Hastings, East Sussex UK TN34 1SJ Tel: +44 (0) 1424 428186 Eastbourne Hydroponics 47 Upperton Rd. Eastbourne, East Sussex UK BN21 1LT Tel: +44 (0) 1323 732241 Eighteen Twelve Ltd. Unit 11 Whitehall Properties Towngate Wyke, Bradford UK BD12 9JQ Tel: +44 (0) 1274 694444 Elements Hydroponic Center 44 Auster Rd. Clifton Moor, York UK YO30 4XA Tel: +44 (0) 1904 479979 www.elementshydroponics.com

Enhanced Urban Gardening 152 London Rd. Workingham, Berkshire UK RG40 1SU Tel: +44 (0) 1189 890510 www.enhancedurbangardening.co.uk Esoteric Hydroponics Ltd. 8 Martyr Rd. Guildford, Surrey UK GU1 4LF Tel: +44 (0) 1483 596484 www.1-hydroponics.co.uk Garden Secrets UK Ltd. Unit 3 Hollybush Est. Whitchurch, Cardiff UK CF14 7DS Tel: +44 (0) 2920 651792 www.gardensecretsuk.co.uk Garforth Hydroponics Back off 11a main street Leeds, UK lS25 1DS www.garforthhydroponics.co.uk Great Stuff Hydroponics 24 Collingwood Ct. Riverside Park Ind. Es. Middlesbrough, UK TS2 1RP Tel: +44 (0) 1642 224544 www.hydroponics-hydroponics.com Great Stuff Hydroponics 30 C Ellemeres Ct. Leechmere Ind. Es. Sunderland, UK SR2 9UA Tel: +44 (0) 1914 474098 www.hyroponics-hydroponics.com Green Daze Hydroponics Ashington Unit 9 Waterside Ct. North Seaton Bus. Pk. Ashington, Northumberland UK NE63 0YG Tel: +44 (0) 1670 818003 www.greendazehydroponics.co.uk Green Daze Hydroponics Gateshead 10 Wellington St. Gateshead, UK NE8 2AJ Tel: +44 (0) 1914 789107 www.greendazehydroponics.co.uk GREEN FEVER 18 Hartshille Rd., Stroke, Stroke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, UK ST4 7QU Tel: +44 (0) 1782 414448 www.green-fever.co.uk Green Finger 190 Hessle Rd. Hull, East Yorkshire UK HU3 3BE Tel: +44 (0) 1482 222425 Green Spirit Hydroponics Ltd 8-10 Stanley St. Sheffield, UK S3 8HJ Tel: +44 (0) 1142 753353 www.greenspirit-hydroponics.com Green Stream 12-14 Vivian Rd. Harbourne, Birmingham UK B17 ODS Tel: +44 (0) 1214 262675 www.greenstream.co.uk Green World 1618 Market Vaults Scarborough, UK YO11 1EU Tel: +44 (0) 1723 370900 www.greenworld.ne.uk Greener than Life 575- 577 Holderness Rd. Hull, East Riding UK HU8 9AA Tel: +44 (0) 1482 374201 Greenfinger Ltd. T Marchant Est., 42-72 Verney Rd. Unit #59 Bermondsey, London UK SE16 3DH Tel: +44 (0) 2073 940629 www.greenfinger-hydroponics.co.uk Greenfinger Ltd. 16-18 Park Rd., Unit 3 Park Works Kingston, Surrey UK KT2 6BX Tel: +44 (0) 2085 463444 www.greenfinger-hydroponics.co.uk Greengrass Indoor Gardening Supplies Unit 5A Alexander Ct. Hazleford Way Newstead, Nottingham UK NG15 0DQ Tel: +44 (0) 1623 755055

Greenhouse Effect Unit 2 Eagle Farm Cranfield Rd. Wavendon, Milton Keynes UK MK17 8AU Tel: +44 (0) 1908 585283 Greenleaf Systems Unit 26, Millers Bridge Ind. Es., Seymour Bootle, Liverpool UK L20 1EE Tel: +44 (0) 1519 331113 www.greenleafsystemsmerseyside.co.uk The Green Room (Indoor Gardens)Ltd Unit 61 Riverside III, Sir Thomas Longley Road, MEdway City Estate Rochester, KENT ME2 4BH Tel: 01634 716764 www.thegreenroomvip.co.uk Greens Horticulture Unit F Totterdown Bridge Est, Albert Rd. St. Philips Bristol, Somerset UK BS2 0XH Tel: +44 (0) 1179 713000 www. greenshorticulture.co.uk Greensea Hydroponics Unit 1G. Gregory Rd. Mildenhall, Bury St. Edmonds, Suffolk UK IP28 7PP Tel: +44 (0) 1638 715350 www.greensea-hydroponics.co.uk Greenstream Hydroponics 12-14 Vivian Rd. Birmingham, Harbourne UK B17 0DS Tel: +44 (0) 1214 262675 www.greenstream.co.uk Greenthings Hydroponics Unit 1, Adjewhella Chapel Barriper Camborne, Cornwall UK TR14 0QW Tel: +44 (0) 1209 611870 www.greenthings.co.uk Grotec Hydroponics 393 Manchester Rd., Rochdale, Greater Manchester UK OL11 3PG Tel: +44 (0) 1706 750293 www.grotec.co.uk Grotech Ltd. Unit 21. Saddlers Hall Farm, London Rd. Basildon, Essex UK SS13 2HD Tel: +44 (0) 1268 799828 www.grotechonline.co.uk Grow 4 Good Ltd. 22i Beehive Workshops Durham, UK DH1 2X1 Tel: +44 (0) 1913 757667 www.grow4good.net Grow Den 2 Horthfield Rd., Rainham, Kent UK ME8 8 BJ Tel: +44 (0) 1634 239333 Grow Shaw 96-98 Shaw Heath Rd., Stockport, Manchester UK SK3 8BP Tel: +44 (0) 8452 725266 www.growshaw.co.uk Grow Zone UK 40 Surf View, Camullas Way Newquay, Cornwall UK TR7 1PP Tel: +44 (0) 1637 850488 www.growzoneuk.com GroWell Coleshill Units 8-11 Coleshill Trade Park, Station Rd. Coleshill, Birmingham UK B46 1HT Tel: +44 (0) 8453 442333 www.growell.co.uk GroWell Dudley Unit 52 Enterprise Trad. Es. off Pedmore Rd. Brierly Hill, Dudley UK DY5 1TX Tel: +44 (0) 8453 456991 www.growell.co.uk GroWell Fullham 1 Royal Parade 247 Dawes Rd. Fullham, London UK SW6 7RE Tel: +44 (0) 8453 445174 www.growell.co.uk GroWell Hockley Heath Ivy House Farm, Grange Rd. Hockley Heath, Solihull UK B94 6PR Tel: +44 (0) 8433 571640 www.growell.co.uk

GroWell Mail Order Division PO Box 3255 Warwick, UK CV34 5GH Tel: +44 (0) 8453 455177 www.growell.co.uk Growing Life #6 Newington Green Rd. London, UK N1 4RX Tel: +44 (0) 2070 339541 www.growing-life.com Groworks 94 Upper Wickham Lane Welling, Kent, UK DA16 3HQ Tel: +44 (0) 2088 545160 Groworks Unit F16 Northfleet Industrial Estate Lower Road, Gravesend, UK DA11 9SW Tel: +44 (0) 1273 624327 Groworks Unit 4 Belltower Industrial Estate Roedean Road, Brighton, UK BN2 5RU Tel: +44 (0) 1322 838131 Happy Daze Hydroponics Unit 4 Craven Court Hedon Rd. Hull, UK HU9 1NQ Tel: +44 (0) 1482 224299 www.happydazehull.com Happy Gardens Ltd. Unit 9, Kelham Bank Ind Es., Kelham St. Doncaster, South Yorkshire UK DN1 3RE Tel: +44 (0) 1302 761386 HFM Pyrotechnics Ltd. 165A Londford Rd. Cannock, Staffordshire UK WS11 OLD Tel: +44 (0) 1543 500800 www.hfmgroup.com Hi9THC Unit 3. Rope Walk. Coach Rd. Whitehaven, Cumbria UK CA28 7TE Tel: +44 (0) 7821 914646 www.hi9thc.co.uk High Street Hydroponics Unit 56 Hebden R., Berkley Ind.Es., Scunthorpe, North Lincolnshire DN15 8DT Tel: +44(0) 1724 857191 Holland Hydroponics 17 Rondin Rd., Ardwick, Greater Manchester UK M12 6BF Tel: +44 (0) 8458 720570 www.hydroponics.co.uk Holland Hydroponics Express Unit 4 Leeds Rd. Trade Park. Leeds Rd., Huddersfield, UK HD2 1YR Holland Hydroponics Handbridge Mill 5 Parliament St. Burnley, Lancashire UK BB11 5HG Tel: +44 (0) 8458 720590 www.hydroponics.co.uk Home Grower Ltd. Unit 8, Oak Court, Crystal Dr. Smethwick, West Midlands UK B66 1QG Tel: +44 (0) 1215 411446 Web: www.thehomegrower.com Huyton Hydroponics & Gardening Supplies Huyton, Mersey Side UK Tel: +44 (0) 1514 820101 www.huytonhydro.co.uk Hydro 1 Stop Unit 35 Deykin Pk. Ind. Es. Deykin Ave. Aston, Birmingham UK B67HN Tel: +44 (0) 1213 280876 www.hydro1stop.co.uk Hydro Hobby Unit 4 Brook Farm, Stoneleigh Rd. Gibbet Hill, Coventry UK CV4 7AB Tel: +44 (0) 2476 414161 www.hydrohobby.co.uk Hydro Station Ltd. Unit 10 Hillfoot Ind. Es. Hoyland Rd. Sheffield, South Yorkshire UK S38AB Tel: +44 (0) 1142 491636 www.hydrostationltd.co.uk

Hydrodragon Ltd. 113-115 Alfred St. Roath Cardiff, South Glamorgan UK CF24 4UA Tel: +44 (0) 2920 490333 www.hydrodragon.co.uk Hydroglo Ltd. The Top Store South Rd., Towerhamlets Dover, Kent UK CT17 OAH Tel: +44 (0) 1304 203199 Web: www.hydroglowltd.co.uk Hydrogrow Systems Ltd. Unit 7, Acton Bus. Pk., Fields Farm Rd. Longeaton, Nottingham UK NG10 3FZ Tel: +44 (0) 1159 730007 Web: www.hydrogrowsystems.co.uk Hydrolite UK Ltd. 215 Denman St., Radford, Nottingham UK NG7 3PS Tel: +44 (0) 1159 785556 www.hydrolite.co.uk Hydroponic Corporation Unit 20, Deeside Ind. Es., Zone 1 Deeside, Flintshire UK SH5 2LR Tel: +44 (0) 1244 289699 www.t-h-c.biz Hydroponica Ltd. 130 Doncaster Rd. Wakefield, Yorkshire UK WF1 5JF Tel: +44 (0) 1924 362888 Web: www.hydroponica.biz Hydroponics.com Unit 24, Port Talbot Business Units Addison Road Port Talbot, UK SA12 6HZ Tel: +44 (0) 1639 888891 www.hydroponicsdotcom.com Hydropower 300 Holton Rd. Barry, Vale Of Glamorgan UK CF63 4HW Tel: +44 (0) 7725 551479 www.hydro-power.biz Hydrosense 47 Scarrots Ln. Newport, Isle of Wright UK PO30 1JD Tel: +44 (0) 1983 522240 Hylton Hydro Rockington Nursery Blackness Rd. Sunderland, UK SR4 7XT Tel: 01 9155 18453 Hytec Horticulture Old Wales Wood Colliery, Mansfield Rd. Sheffield, UK S26 5PQ Tel: +44 (0) 1909 772872 www.hytechorticulture.co.uk Junction 10 Hydro Unit 55, Owen Road Industrial Estate Willenhall, WV13 2PX Tel: 0121 5686850 www.j10hydro.com Kernow Grow Ltd. 11 D. Kernick Ind. Es. Penryn, Cornwall UK TR10 9EP Tel: +44 (0) 3300 104420 www.kernowgrow.co.uk King Of Green 18-24 Saint Helens Rd., Westcliff on Sea Westcliff, Essex UK SS0 7LB Tel: +44 (0) 1702 347536 www.kingofgreen.com Kitbag Hydroponic Warehouse 22 Pool Bank St. Nunaeton, Warwickshire UK CV11 5DB Tel: +44 (0) 2476 641033 ebaystores.co.uk/kitbagshop Lancaster Hydroponics Unit 18 Lansil Ind.Es., Caton Rd. Lancaster, Lancashire UK LA1 3PQ Tel: +44 (0) 7961 279279 www.lancasterhydroponics.co.uk Lothian Hydroponics 172 S Mid St. Bathgate, West Lothian UK EH48 1DY Tel: +44 (0) 1506 650501

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Makes Sense Grow Shop The Annex Rear of #20, Barden Rd. Tonbridge, Kent UK TN9 1TX Tel: +44 (0) 1732 507201 www.makessencesrowshop.co.uk Manchester Hydroponics Unit 1A, Reliance St. Newton Heath, Manchester UK M40 3AG Tel: +44 (0) 1616 887333 www.manchesterhydroponics.co.uk manchesterhydroponics@yahoo.co.uk Matildaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Planet 1 Green Pl. Kenfig, South Wales UK Tel: +44 (0) 7895 567843 dale.hudd@grg.com Mellow Yellow Hydro Ltd. Unit B1A Towngate Works., Dark Ln. Mawdesley, Lancashire UK L40 2QU Tel: +44 (0) 1704 822609 www.mellowyellowhydro.co.uk Midnight Garden 6 Howlbeck Rd., Guisborough, UK TS14 6LE Tel: +44 (0) 79333 449661 Mile End Hydroponics 265 Wick Rd. London, UK E9 5DG Tel: +44 (0) 2085 330497 www.mile-end-hydroponic.co.uk Mousehold Garden Center 63 Mousehold Ln. Norwich, Norfolk UK NR7 8HP Tel: +44 (0) 1603 413272 Mr. Beam Hydro Rose Grove Selby Rd. Askern, Doncaster UK DN6 0ES Tel: +44 (0) 1302 708297 www.mr-beam-hydro.com New Age Hydroponics Unit 1 Albert Pl., Albert Mill Lower Darwen, Lancashire UK BB3 OQE Tel: +44 (0) 1254 661177 New Leaf Hydroponics 1 Horsewater Wynd, Hawkhill, Dundee UK DD1 5DU Tel: +44 (0) 1382 202556 www.newleafhydroponics.co.uk Norfolk Lights & Hydroponics Centre Ltd. Unit 2 Guardian Rd., Ind. Es. Norwich, Norfolk UK NR5 8PF Tel: +44 (0) 1603 666199 www.norfolklights.com North Devon Hydroponics Unit 4 Abbey Rd. Barnstaple, Devon UK EX31 1JU Tel: +44 (0) 1271 314999 www.northdevonhydroponics.co.uk NuGreen Hydroponics Unit 4 Stirchley Trad. Es., Hazelwell Rd. Stirchley, Birmingham UK B3O 2PF Tel: +44 (0) 1216 855900 www.nugreenhydroponics.co.uk One Stop Grow Shop Unit 8, Fenton Ind. Es., Dewsbury Rd. Fenton, Stroke-On-Trent UK ST4 2TE Tel: +44 (0) 1782 212000 www.onestopgrowshop.co.uk Planet Hydro Unit 11 NorthBridge Works., Storey St. Leicester, Leics UK LE3 5GR Tel: +44 (0) 1162 510800 Plant Life Unit 11 Riverside Wy., Ravensthorpe Ind Es. Dewsbury, West Yorkshire UK WF13 3LG Tel: +44 (0) 1924 492298 www.plantlife.me.uk Plantasia Brill View Farm Ludgershall Rd. Bicester, Oxfordshire UK OX25 1PU Tel: +44 (0) 8707 555225 www.plantasia.co.uk

Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

Progrow 5 Westwood Units, Alphinbrook Rd. Marsh Barton Trad. Es. Exeter, Devon UK EX2 8QF Tel: +44 (0) 1392 276998 www.progrow.co.uk Rootzone Hydroponics Ltd. Unit 2 & 3., The Green Bus.Ctr., The Causeway Staines, Middlesex UK TW18 3AL +44 (0) 1784 490370 www.hydrowebshop.com Sale Hydro 71 Dane Rd., Sale Manchester, Lancashire UK M33 7BP Tel: +44 (0) 1619 739899 Email: care@salehydroponics.co.uk Sea of Green UK 25 Eastcott Hill Swindon, Wiltshire UK SN1 3JG Tel: +44 (0) 1793 617046 www.seaofgreen.co.uk Somerset Hydro Unit 14., Yeovil Small Bus. Ctr. Houndstone Bus Pk. Yeovil, Somerset UK BA22 8WA Tel: +44 (0) 1935 420720 www.somhydro.co.uk South Coast Hydroponics Unit 8., Enterprise Ind. Es., Enterprise Rd. Horndean, Portsmouth UK PO8 0BB Tel: +44 (0) 2392 598853 www.southcoasthydroponics.com Southern Hydro Centre 9 Mamesbury Rd. Southampton, Hampshire UK S01 SFT Tel: +44 (0) 2380 704080 www.southernhydro.co.uk Southern Lights #1 25 Fratton Rd. Hampshire, UK PO1 5AB Tel: +44 (0) 1705 811822; Southern Lights #2 19A Grace Hill. Folkestone, Kent UK CT20 1HQ Tel: +44 (0) 1303 210003; 44 (0) 1303 252561 St Albans Hydroponics Unit 5 London Rd., Bus.Pk., 222 London Rd. St Albans, UK AL1 1PN Tel: +44 (0) 1727 848595 www.stalbanshydroponics.moonfruit.com/ Starlite Systems 226 Albert Rd., Plymouth, Devon UK PL2 1AW Tel: +44 (0) 1752 551233 www.starlitesystems.co.uk Sub-Garden Supplies 45-J Leyton Industrial Village, Argall Ave., Leyton, London UK E10 7QP Tel: +44 (0) 2085 399563 Sunrise Hydroponics 127 Newcastle St., Burslem. Stoke on Trent, Staffshire UK ST6 3QJ Tel: +44 (0) 1782 813814 www.sunrisehydro.co.uk The Green Machine Ltd. Unit 1A., Felin Puleston Ind.Es., Ruabon Rd. Wrexham, UK L13 7RF Tel: +44 (0) 1978 265090 www.thegreenmachineonline.com The Grow Den 2 Hothfield Rd. Rainham, Kent UK ME8 8BJ Tel: +44 (0) 1634 239333 The Grow Den Ltd. Unit 13., Eaves Ct., Eurolink Com.Pk., Bohan Dr. Sittingbourne, Kent UK ME10 3RY Tel: +44 (0) 1795 426264 The Head Gardener Unit 11, Barton Bus. Pk. Eccles, Manchester UK M3O OQR Tel: +44 (0) 1617 079860 www.theheadgardner.net

The Home Grower Unit 8., Oak Ct. Odbury, West Midlands UK B66 1QG Tel: +44 (0) 1215 411446 www.thehomegrower.com The Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 15., Bay Airport Ind.Es., Kingston Pk. Newcastle, Tyne and Wear UK NE3 2EF Tel: +44 (0) 1912 862045 www.thehydroponicwharhouse.co.uk The Inner Garden Ltd. Unit 14., Cornish Wy., West, Galmington Taunton, Somerset UK TA1 5NA Tel: +44 (0) 1823 274791 The Persy Grow Shop 4 Kings Mews. Brighton, East Sussex UK BN3 2PA Tel: +44 (0) 1273 777335 www.persygrowbox.co.uk The Plant Pot 69 Ratcliffe Gate Mansfield, Nottinghamshire UK NG18 2JB Tel: +44 (0) 1623 422711 www.theplantpot.co.uk Toddington Hydroponics Center Griffin Farm Unit 9., Toddington Dunstable, Bedford UK LU5 6BT Tel: +44 (0) 1582 664765 www.toddingtonhydroponics.co.uk Triangle Hydroponics 31B., The Triangle , Bournemouth, Dorset UK BH2 5SE Tel: +44 (0) 1202 556661 www.trianglehydroponics.co.uk U Grow London Studio12, Imperial Studios, 3-11 Imperial Rd. London, UK SW6 2AG, Tel: +44 (0) 2073 843388 www.ugrow.com Warehouse Hydroponics Bank Quay Trading Est., Slutchers Ln. Warrington, Cheshire UK WA1 1PJ Tel: +44 (0) 1925 637837 www.warehousehydroponics.co.uk ireland Northern Lights 9 Dunluce St. Larne Antrim, Northern Ireland BT40 1JG Tel: +44 (0) 2828 278485 www.northernlightsni.com The Grow Shop 14 Brews Hill , Nauan, Co. M Fath Ireland OLI Tel: +44 (0) 1772 204455 www.thc.ie scotland Progrow Scotland Unit 6., Nasmyth Square Houston Ind.Es. Livingston, West Lothian Scotland EH5 45GG Tel: +44 (0) 1506 430830 www.progrowscotland.co.uk Abergreen Horticulture Ltd Arch 8 Palmerston Rd. Aberdeen, Granpian Scotland AB11 5RE Tel: +44 (0) 1224 574737 www.abergreen.co.uk Kingdom Hydroponics Unit #12 Carbery Pl., Mitchelson Ind. Es. Kirkcaldy, Fife Scotland KY1 3NE Tel: +44 (0) 1592 655611 Hydra Hydroponics 41 Tower St. Edinburgh, Scotland EH6 7BN Tel: +44 (0) 1315 611332 www.hydraonline.co.uk Glasgrow 15 Parnie St. Glasgow, Scotland G15RJ Tel: +44 (0) 1415 527522 www.glasgrowhydroponics.co.uk EZ Grow Perth 77 Scott St. Perth, Scotland PH2 8JR Tel: +44(0) 7521 597308

photo courtesy of Joseph Kemp

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Maximum Yield UK | July / August 2012

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