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FEATURES 48
CONTENTS August 2010
Advanced Aeroponics: Compressed Air for High Output Plant Production by Joshua T. Serpa
122 160
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A New Breed of LED: Intensified Lighting for Indoor Growing
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How Do Hydroponic Systems Work?
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Not Convinced? Why Water Quality is Essential to Plant Health
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Aeroponics in Space
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Chemical Incompatibilities: Why and How to Avoid Them
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by Brian Chiang & Josh Puckett by J. Benton Jones Jr. by Trevor Holt by Philip McIntosh by Donald Lester
Testing and Trialing
r C ov e
by Dr. Lynette Morgan
phot
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A Primer on Deep Water Culture
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Premium Bio-Harvests: The Easy Way
122
Ocean Deep
132
Circadian Rhythm: The Plant/Light Connection
138
Supply & Demand: Achieving a Balance with Nature
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Small Spaces, Big Yields Bloom - Part 1
160
Environmental Control for Better Tasting Produce
ob
ve y Da
Ham
ilton
by Susan Slobac by Erik Biksa by Charles Walters by Luis Bartolo by Evan Folds by Lee McCall by Ed Harwood
DEPARTMENTS 10 12 14 18 20 34
From the Editor Letters to the Editor MaximumYield.com Simon Says MAX Facts Product Spotlight
86 94 106 118 130 154
Growing for Health Beginner’s Corner Avant-Gardening Green Thumb Gardening You Tell Us
158 168 172 173 174
Talking Shop Max Mart Coming up in September Do You Know? Distributors
Tips & Tricks
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
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FROM THE editor
jessica raymond
Hydroponics and indoor gardening are all about control—climate control, pH control, control of nutrients, lighting control, pest and biological control, etc. This August summer issue is devoted to helping you attain Maximum Yields (because that’s what we do) by achieving optimal environmental control through the use of effective tests and trials, detailed inside. Dr. Lynette Morgan provides the basics steps for performing successful experiments on a variety of crops. Lee McCall’s “Small Spaces, Big Yields – Bloom series” details his tomato trials with Early Girl and Sugar Babies. Donald Lester helps you avoid dangerous chemical combinations illustrating the jar test as the quickest and easiest method for determining product compatibility.These topics and more, including water quality, flavor enhancements and LED trials are all inside.
This issue of Maximum Yield USA, in addition to the July publication, is part of our Summer Collector Editions.These two issues serve as your summer growing guide, with helpful hints and inspirational tips that will keep you growing successfully all year. Happy growing!
Jessica Raymond, Editor editor@maximumyield.com
contributors Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.
Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information.
Evan Folds is president of Progressive Gardens, a natural approach land care company, and Progress Earth (www.progressearth.com). With a degree in biology and religion, Evan’s interests include making sense of food production and bringing awareness to such topics as empty food, municipal water fluoridation and spiritual intolerance.
Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the president of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., a global leader in the production of hydroponic organic fertilizers and soil mixtures. He is passionate about the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life
Lee McCall graduated from Johnson and Wales University with a concentration in Culinary Arts. Culinary school opened the door to research and work with hydroponics and organic production. Currently, Lee attends business school in Denver and focuses on continuing advancements with Maximum Yield and indoor gardening technology.
Donald Lester is the plant products manager at JH Biotech, Inc., a California based agricultural technology company with 27 OMRI certified products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with an emphasis in entomology. He is an agricultural scientist with over 10 years of research experience and 50 scientific publications to his credit.
Josh Puckett earned his bachelor’s degree in biology with an emphasis on plant biology from Sonoma State University. He currently works at the UC Davis Foundation Plant Services. He has years of experience in the horticulture and agriculture industries. He also serves as an advisor for the Kessil Research team.
Brian Chiang has worked for DiCon
Dr. Ed Harwood is founder and chief executive officer of AeroFarms. Ed previously served as associate director of Cornell Cooperative Extension for Agriculture. Prior to that, Ed served as CEO of Topline Waikato, Inc.
Joshua Serpa graduated from
Erik Biksa holds a diploma in
Philip McIntosh is a science and
Dr. J. Benton Jones Jr. has 50 years
Fiberoptics, Inc., an advanced technology company based in California, for the last 13 years. Brian received his bachelor’s degree in physics from UC Berkeley and master’s degree in physics from UC Davis. He is currently the managing director for Kessil Lighting, a DiCon business division.
agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the “Ask Erik” column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world.
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technology writer with a bachelor’s degree in botany and chemistry and a master’s degree in biological science. During his graduate research he used hydroponic techniques to grow axenic plants. He lives in Colorado Springs, CO. where he teaches mathematics at Challenger Middle School.
Southern Oregon University with a degree in communication and computer science. He is the division manager at Aerolife Systems, a company that manufactures high output aeroponic systems. His book, “The Art of Aeroponics,” will be available Spring 2011.
of experience growing plants hydroponically. He is an Emeritus Professor at the University of Georgia, Athens and has authored eight books and written articles for magazines that deal with hydroponic issues. He currently has his own consulting company, Grosystems, Inc. Dr. Jones currently lives in Anderson, SC, USA.
LETTERS TO the editor
Compare and Contrast via Enews I appreciate your Win Big…Grow Big contest, and I hope to win something. I liked the article on growing the herb Arnica Montana published last year. You should have more articles like this one. The results showing the active ingredients doubled were interesting. I would love to see other unique crops trialed, like the Purple Dragon variety of carrots. You could also do a comparison trial of amaranth plants in soil versus hydroponics to see the difference in yields. It would be interesting to note the difference in yields when growing crops under different electronic ballast wattages, i.e. 600 versus 1,000 watt versions. I really enjoyed the previous issues featuring LED grow lights. They were well written and interesting. Seeing that LED grow lights are relatively new, you could do an indoor grow room trial using amaranth plants and see what the yield per plant would be compared to electronic ballasts with 600 watt and 1,000 watt version, and in different mediums. This would be very exciting, and it is something that I really want to see in Maximum Yield.
Thanks again Vicki
New to Hydroponics... in Arkansas Hey y’all, I’m new to hydroponics, well new to growing plants in general actually. I’ve never liked dirt or yard work, but I recently purchased a patchouli plant and have decided to grow it until I can clone her using the ebb and flow system I’m building in my shed. I picked up one of your magazines in Baton Rouge and read it. That’s what got me interested in cloning my little baby’s future momma. I live in northwest Arkansas and when I looked up hydroponics on my iPhone I found the greatest little hydroponics place, the only place in fact in like 100 miles. It’s Anuway Hydroponics in Rogers, Arkansas. Michael Houser Rogers, AR
Evolving Standards After reading the March issue of Maximum Yield USA from cover to cover online, I picked up the hard copy at my local hydro shop so I could add it to my collection. It was the cover title that drew me in—“Evolving LED Technology”—and I was pleasantly surprised to find the feature article lived up to the standards set by that title, a rare occurrence in magazine publishing. Many of the other articles were fascinating as well, particularly the piece by Donald Lester on indoor biological products and Noucetta Kehdi’s “Root-Parasitic Fungi.” Great work on this publication. Keep it up. Sam Moffett
The Future of Food Production I enjoy reading your publication whenever I can get it. It is full of useful articles written by the best and most dedicated people in the industry, but I don’t have to tell you that. They wouldn’t be in your magazine if they weren’t the best in the industry. I also depend on your product reviews to keep up-to-date on the ever-changing industry products. The advertisements and the articles are my main influence in making purchasing decisions. They help me make confident, informed decisions. I am not a big, commercial grower; just a hobby gardener. I have been growing in soil for about 45 years and only in the past year have I become interested in hydroponics or as I think of it, the future of gardening. It is the future of food production and I am excited to play with the technology. Again, thank you very much for your great contribution to this emerging way of life.
Product Spotlight
Henry Danforth Oregon City, OR Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.
We want to hear from you! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
Coming up on the Web 2010 North American Expo Tour – Next Stop Long Beach The long-awaited Long Beach Indoor Gardening Expo will be held at the Long Beach Convention Center October 16-17, 2010. Long Beach offers a beautiful ocean backdrop and world-class entertainment, making it the perfect location for this event. Make plans to attend this pre-eminent event. Visit www.indoorgardeningexpo.com for full details.
Win a FREE Trip for Two to Long Beach Maximum Yield and the Indoor Gardening Expos announce your chance to WIN a trip for two to the Long Beach Expo – Oct 16-17, 2010! Simply visit maximumyield.com or indoorgardeningexpo.com, enter your name and email and be automatically entered into the draw. It’s that easy! Contest closes September 1, 2010.
Click & Win Every time you visit maximumyield.com is just one more opportunity to be eligible to win. Make the most of your visit to your favorite website and check out our latest contests with new prizes added every second month all year long. Link directly at http://maximumyield.com/contests.php
Featured Articles Advanced Aeroponics Compressed air aeroponic systems are the latest green technology, which reduce the cost of food production and allow you to use water more efficiently.
Chemical Incompatibilities With thousands of incompatible chemical combinations, this article helps you avoid a mistake that could cost you yields.
A New Breed of LED The new dense matrix LED platform is revolutionizing the horticulture industry. Find out how in this feature article.
Have you signed up for Maximum Yield’s monthly E-Newsletter? If so, you know that every issue is overflowing with the latest local and global news, expert advice, website reviews, contest updates, sneak peeks, event details and so much more. If not, what are you waiting for? Sign up today by visiting http://maximumyield.com/newsletter.php
Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you. 14
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
I N D O O R
G A R D E N I N G
VOLUME 11 – NUMBER 5 August 2010 Maximum Yield is published monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092 Printed In Canada.
PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Gaby Morin - gaby@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com Daniel Peters - daniel@maximumyield.com Nicole Tennison - nicole@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS, BWGS West and BWGS East General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Futchatec Growth Technology Hydraspher
SIMON says
Hello Simon, I grow about 30 tomato plants each year hydroponically and have employed cloning techniques using the plant’s laterals as new plant starters. This ensures that I am growing the best plants all season long by selecting the best specimens. I have to replace plants regularly as the vines become somewhat unmanageable after a while. My question is why don’t commercial tomato growers use cloning techniques? Is it because of the resultant: root structure, plant longevity, premature fruit formation, authenticity of the clone or some other reason that I have not considered here? A clone can be developed between five to 10 days and takes about half the time of a seedling to produce without the cost of the seed, which is very high for hybrid varieties. Thanks Gerald Rim
Great Question Gerard, As you no doubt are aware, tomatoes root easily from cuttings. For the home gardener this can be a great way to use unwanted vegetative growth to stagger production times. Remember to take off this suckering material on indeterminate (vining) tomatoes or the plant will focus on foliage production and not tasty fruit. In commercial greenhouses there are other considerations at work beyond a new batch of plants to grow. First this would increase the production costs for the grower. There would have to be space set aside for the facilities required for this stage in growth and also workers would have to be trained with new skill sets. Most growers will start from plugs or small plants that have been shipped in. It is also difficult to the uniformity of plant material that growers want from young plants when using asexual reproduction. Seedlings are generally much more consistent to work with because foliage and root development is generally quite homogenous throughout the crop.
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As you alluded, there is also the issue of breeder’s rights. Unlicensed propagation is a serious issue in horticulture. Working to develop new varieties is a long and expensive process. Once tested and positioned in the market breeders need to recover their costs. The lifespan of a new variety in mainstream production is a limited window of three to five years before being replaced by a new variety. As an organic grower, I would also mention that breeding of new varieties isn’t necessarily geared towards things the home gardeners are looking for. Taste and texture are generally far less important than vigor and shelf life when commercial breeders are developing new varieties for market. Although the newest varieties are never available for home gardeners, remember that heirloom options can sometimes offer better attributes than the latest and greatest hybrids in seed catalogues. Good luck in the garden.
MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Peak Freshness The Seasons iPhone application will give you seasonal information for fruits, vegetables, lettuces, herbs, fungi and nuts for your location. You can view local seasons versus import seasons and see a graph that shows how “in season” a given food is. This app features 170 entries with photos, a short description and seasonal data. Support is offered for US, Canada, United Kingdom and Western and Central Europe. It also shows nearby farmer’s markets. Eating seasonally makes for better tasting meals and cuts down on transportation costs. Now you can experience a greater variety of produce at peak freshness just as nature intended. That’s a great value for $1.99. (Source: www.good.is)
The Next Wave in Composting According to the U.S. EPA, 44.8 million tons of food scraps and yard waste reach our landfills each year, all of which could potentially be collected and reused through composting or mulching programs. According to the National Resource Defense Council (NRDC), only eight per cent of Americans compost their waste, including residents in cities like San Francisco and Seattle, where composting is part of the general waste pickup. Products that are compostable are also increasing in availability. SunChips has developed a completely compostable bag, a consumer-led initiative. This concept has yet to be achieved by any other packaging product. And the packaging does work, according to its certification by the Biodegradable Products Institute, as well as research from Woods End Labs. (Source: http://earth911.com)
A Farm That Fits Your Life Maintaining a productive garden can be hard, especially if you don’t have spare time or space. But there’s still a way to grow your own herbs, tomatoes and squash. In Los Angeles, Home Grow Micro Farms, founded by Lucas Brower, an M.S. in environmental science, and Jesse Kamm, a fashion designer, will deliver pre-planted boxes of seasonal vegetables and herbs to your door. Home Grow offers boxes planted with melons, peas, broccoli, berries and many other delicious options. They use only organic seeds and fertilizer, and each box has an automatic watering system that minimizes waste. You order the fruits and vegetables you want, and when your micro farm is done producing, they’ll replace it with something new that’s in season. Now you can grow veggies without giving up your day job. (Sources: www.good.is, www.homegrowmicrofarms.com)
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facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Third Times a Charm ___________________ Florida Garden Supplies is excited to announce the opening of our third location in Orlando, Florida. The store is located at 8442 Tradeport Dr., Suite 200. We have a large selection of hydroponic and organic gardening supplies at prices you can afford. Florida Garden Supplies is one of the biggest suppliers of gardening products in the state of Florida. Our 10,000 square foot store offers a huge selection of hydroponics equipment and fertilizer products from a variety of vendors, so you receive everything you need in one simple shipment. Visit Florida Garden Supplies in Orlando today. You can also visit them online at www.floridagardensupplies.com
Technaflora East Coast Tour Update Proud sponsor of Technaflora’s East Coast Tour, ehydroponics.com, has been hitting the road with the Technaflora Hydro Crew promoting Technaflora’s Recipe for Success. The tour began at the Wanee Music Festival in Florida, followed by the three week run of 10th Annual Summer Camp, Wakarusa and Bonnaroo. The Hydro Crew has sponsored five major music and art festivals and has reached more than 10,000 growers. The next stop is the Phish Tour and then it’s off to Gathering of the Vibes and Moe. Down. If you are planning on seeing some good music this summer, come check us out and don’t forget to ask about your free Recipe For Success Starter Kit and a chance to win $2,500 in gear from ehydroponics.com. Visit www.technaflora.com for full details.
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hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Bright New Dry Bean for Salads and Other Foods
Can Urban Farms Translate Popularity into Profitability?
Crimson, a new cranberry dry bean cultivar, is now available for production in the form of foundation seed that could give rise to a new bumper crop of the colorful legumes for 2010. Crimson was developed by Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientists from a cross between the commercial cultivar Cardinal and a dry bean breeding line. The combination of the two “parents” has endowed Crimson with viral disease resistance and a high yield of shapely, maroon-speckled seed. Crimson owes its prized seed features and disease resistance to Cardinal, and specifically that cultivar’s genes. The new cultivar also can tolerate the bean rust fungus, which is problematic in dry beans east of the Rocky Mountains. Crimson’s high yield comes from a breeding line which brings diversity from a tropic bean into the mix. In tests across the country, Crimson produced on average 150 pounds more seed per acre than Capri, a top-performing commercial cultivar used for comparison. Crimson’s plants also matured two days earlier than Capri.
City farms are sprouting in all sorts of unlikely places: in empty lots next to apartment complexes, across from high schools and in old industrial centers. Sizeable food-production plots have sprung up in Philadelphia, Baltimore, Chicago, Oakland, Milwaukee, Boston, Detroit and San Francisco. The urban farm movement aims to take control of food production away from large-scale industrial agriculture and root it within local food systems that attempt to ensure food access for the urban poor. Often located in low-income neighborhoods, many city farms operate off the basic premise that healthy, affordable food is a basic human right. “Food justice” is the mantra of most of the organizations in the urban farming movement. That means serving the estimated 14 per cent of Americans who experience food insecurity—49 million people who are unsure where they’ll find their next meal. However, these urban farms haven’t yet found a way to thrive in the market economy. Most rely heavily on volunteer labor and grant funding. They may be at the forefront of ecological sustainability, but economic sustainability continues eludes them.
(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)
(Source: www.good.is)
Landmark High-Performance Building in Portland _______________________________ A 250 foot vertical garden will decorate downtown Portland, Oregon as part of a $135 million high rise remodeling project. The structure, a series of trellises designed to shade the west side of an 18 story office building, will be one of the world’s most extensive. Seven vertical “vegetated fins” that jut at acute angles will constitute the framework for planters and greenery. The west wall is 150 feet long, making the expanse about three-quarters the size of an NFL playing field, minus the end zones. It is the largest single stimulus project so far in Oregon. In the summer the leaves will provide cooling shade; in the winter, the bare limbs and stems will admit comforting light. Energy efficient features include: elevators that generate electricity on the way down; solar arrays on the roof; smart lighting systems that adjust to the daylight available; and collected rainwater for irrigation and to flush toilets. Construction is expected to take 30 to 40 months. (Source: www.msnbc.msn.com)
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facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Thinking Outside the Pot Designers and craftsters have come up with some inspired ways to grow veggies in microgardens. Some work great and others are just the first step towards a clever idea. Comic books roped together work especially great for microgreens, an idea we elaborated on in the June issue of Maximum Yield USA. Take your veggies on the rode with a rolling garden suitcase. Plant in your purse and carry around your favorite herbs and veggies for a snack whenever, and wherever, you feel like it. Reduce your food miles to zero by growing in your fridge. Plant your veggies in old printer cartridges. With a little creativity and ingenuity, the options are endless. (Source: http://planetgreen.discovery.com)
Michael Pollan’s “Food Rules” Michael Pollan’s new book “Food Rules - An Eater’s Manual” is a collection of home spun dietary advice, bringing together 64 simple rules for eating well. In Western culture we have become obsessed with very particular ingredients in our food but we still don’t know what we should be eating. Pollan believes we should be paying attention to how our food is grown (preferably locally and organically), the balance of our overall diet (eat like an omnivore) and advises that how we eat has as much importance as what we eat (stop eating before you’re full). Here are just a few of our favorite rules: 6. Avoid foods that contain more than five ingredients. 13. Eat only foods that eventually will rot. 15. Get out of the supermarket whenever you can. 20. It’s not food if it arrived through the window of your car. 36. Don’t eat breakfast cereals that change the color of the milk. 39. Don’t get your fuel from the same place your car does. (Source: www.treehugger.com)
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hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Hydro Retail Specialists ________________ High Tech Garden Supply (HGT) is proud to announce the grand opening of our fifth store. “With a large inventory of quality indoor/outdoor gardening products, professional displays and competitive prices, we are certain the Michigan store is going to be a favorite destination for all Midwestern gardeners,” said HTG’s Marcus Ricard. We are open Tuesday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. We specialize in complete grow packages, grow light systems, ventilation, hydroponics, cloning, odor control, nutrients and much more. We look forward to seeing you at one of our five locations. You can also visit us online at www.htgsupply.com
Foraging Takes Locavoreism to a New Level “Wildman” Steve Brill has been tracking down mushrooms, gingko nuts, and berries of all types for almost 30 years in New York City. He regularly gives city tours, teaching groups of interested foodies on where to look for all kinds of edible plants that grow unnoticed by most people. For those unable to make it to NYC to take one of his classes, he even has his own YouTube channel. Foraging encourages locavorism to an extreme degree. Brill educates on safe foraging, like which plants are poisonous and which ones need to be cooked first in order to make them safe for consumption. It’s an extremely efficient use of the environment, as these plants are growing wild anyways and would otherwise probably be cut down. It just goes to show how many smart strategies for local, sustainable food practices exist no matter where you live. It’s nice to see people slowly but surely learn to appreciate the nature around not just as scenery but as a source of nourishment and a way to move away from industrial agricultural practices. (Source: http://planetgreen.discovery.com)
MY
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PRODUCT spotlight
See it. Want it. Find it at your local indoor gardening store. High-Tech Growing The Aerobox complete kit from Aerolife Systems is a high-tech growing system that uses compressed air aeroponic technology to increase plant metabolism. The Aerobox is the only commercial system that allows for root hair growth without drowning the root zone. The kit includes a fully insulated Aerobox and lid along with the patent pending Aerofog Nozzle and a quiet compressor. The kit also comes with a three and five foot trellis kit. The Aerobox has multiple ports for incorporating an ebb and flow or D.W.C. system. To learn more about this new technology visit a hydroponics retailer near you.
Rev up Your Rhizosphere Botanicare’s new biological inoculant ZHO contains revolutionary supercharged endomychorrizal and Trichoderma fungi that naturally build a microbial system in and around plant roots significantly improving growth, vigor and production. ZHO contains special amino acids designed to intensify the rhizobial activity that ZHO ignites. Apply ¼ teaspoon of ZHO twice during your grow cycle and your plants’ vitality and development will exceed your expectations. ZHO is non-toxic to flora and fauna, improves soil structure, increases nutrient uptake and improves rooting. For more information visit your nearest indoor gardening store.
Tie Boss – The World’s Easiest Hanger The Patented Tie Boss® performs where other hangers fail. The instant lock and release works similar to a Venetian blind. Durable construction means no moving parts to break, jam or rust. Stands up to water and humidity. One person operation—raise and lower loads without a ladder. The ¼ inch size is perfect for reflectors and can hold a maximum load of 150 pounds. The 3⁄8 inch size can hold up to 275 pounds. The Pulley lifts 275 pounds easily and makes 150 pounds feel like 50. Contact your Hydrofarm retailer for more information.
Rain Barrels = Free Water Deluxe Rain Barrels save you money and precious, natural resources at the same time, plus the handy faucet makes it a breeze to put all that water to use! Collecting rainwater eliminates strain on wells and municipal water supplies, and reduces monthly water and sewer bills. Constructed from durable, UV-stable, 25 per cent recycled resin. These 60 gallon Deluxe Rain Barrels include removable lids and downspout diverter kits. Contact your favorite indoor/outdoor gardening shop for more information.
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PRODUCT spotlight
See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Supercharge Your Plants Soul Synthetics Amino-Aide (5-0-0) is a complex amino acid blend specifically formulated to increase plant vigor and yields. Chemists at Aurora Innovations created this blend after extensive research into compounds that can be beneficial for plant growth and yields. Harness that power with Amino-Aide and see the results for yourself. Great for both soil and hydroponic gardening. Soul Synthetics Amino-Aide is derived from kelp, yucca, L-Glycine and L-Arginine. For more information visit your favorite indoor gardening shop.
The Raw Food Diet Botanicare has combined the superiority of Sweet with the flavors of nature in the newest addition to the popular Sweet line—Sweet Raw. Sweet Raw helps maintain optimum metabolic levels by supplying plants with the vital energy they need during the entire grow cycle. Sweet Raw offers the same premium ingredients as the original flavored versions, without the added flavors. Sweet Raw is a flavorless blend of more than 20 amino acids, select carbohydrates, enriching vitamins and an array of essential secondary and trace minerals. For more information visit an indoor gardening store near you.
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PRODUCT spotlight
See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Blooming Results Phosphorus is an important energy compound in plant metabolism resulting in larger flowers. Potassium is essential for the existence of plants and optimizing of photosynthetic activity. This product is made from food grade materials and is 50 per cent stronger than the leading brand on the market. Use one milliliter per quart in week five to eight of your flowering cycle. Visit your local hydro retailer for more information.
Simple and Economical PPM-4 C.A.P.’s new PPM-4 offers indoor gardeners the simplest method of monitoring and controlling CO2 dispersal throughout their growing area. Operating the PPM-4 is as easy as mounting the meter to the wall, plugging the meter into the power interface and plugging in your CO2 generator or regulator. The PPM-4 utilizes a highly visible and intuitive LED indicator display to let you know generalized CO2 levels at a glance from across the room. PPM-4 also features an easy to use calibration function. For more information contact your favorite indoor gardening retailer.
To Infinity and Beyond _________________________________ Soul Synthetics Infinity (0.5-2.5-1.5) catalyst is a powerful blend of organic compounds and choice plant nutrients. Infinity is specially formulated to increase vigor and prevent micronutrient deficiencies and can be used with any nutrient program for increased micronutrient uptake. Soul Synthetics Infinity is derived from soy protein, kelp, agave, yucca, molasses, pure sugar cane, magnesium amino acid chelate, calcium amino acid chelate, iron amino acid chelate, bamboo extract, green tea extract, grape seed extract and humic acid derived from leonardite. For more information visit your favorite indoor gardening shop.
Liven Up Your Compost Tea ________________________________ The unprecedented Vortex Brewer allows water to flow naturally as it would in nature, in a vortex fashion. Water is the backbone of biodynamic agriculture, homeopathic medicine and nature. The Vortex Brewer potentizes nutrient solutions and compost teas, increases dissolved oxygen content in solutions and enlivens water, allowing it to carry out its natural function. You’ve never used something like this in your garden. Order the Vortex Brewer from your favorite retailer.
Reforestation Technologies Presents Xtreme Gardening ________ Xtreme Gardening by Reforestation Technologies International (RTI) feeds your plants the best biologicals, organics and nutrients. Mykos, MykosWP, Mykos Drops and Mykos30 all contain premium endo-mycorrhizae, the same species responsible for world record giant vegetables. Azos is a mycorrhiza booster, a bacterium that supplies nitrogen to the plant and encourages the production of indole-3-acetic acid (IAA). CO2 naturally increases levels of carbon dioxide within the leaf of the plant, maximizing photosynthesis. Finally Organic Feeder Paks are fertilizer teabags that will feed your plants all season. Contact your Hydrofarm retailer for more information.
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PRODUCT
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spotlight
The Holy Grail in Aeroponic Growing The Aerofog Nozzle from Aerolife Systems is the ideal way to produce 0-30 micron fog, perfect for true aeroponic growth. They operate on 15-40 PSI of compressed air, using 50 to 90 per cent less water and nutrients, while increasing growth rates. This nozzle can grow and sustain root hairs. The micron size of your nutrient solution can be adjusted by simply increasing the PSI to the nozzle (up to 40 PSI). To learn more about this amazing new technology visit a hydroponics retailer near you.
TopMax Goes Organic TopMax is a 100 per cent organic flowering strengthener that dramatically increases the size and weight of flowers. TopMax uses humic and fulvic acids to assist in the flow of nutrients. The main source of humic acid is a deposit called Leonardite that comes from trees and vegetation that grew 300 million years ago. Fulvic acid is reclaimed from humate deposits and contains a natural electrical charge that attracts nutrients and minerals. Talk to your local indoor gardening retailer today to learn more.
Green Up Foliage With the New Cal Cal from yellow bottle Bloom increases calcium and magnesium availability and revives suffering plants. Cal increases chlorophyll resulting in higher photosynthetic rates. When using high doses of potash the addition of Cal will result in balanced nutrient absorption. Use one milliliter per quart of nutrient solution every week. Cal contains calcium, magnesium, nitrogen, chelated iron and zinc. Visit your favorite hydro retailer to learn more.
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PRODUCT spotlight
The Yin and Yang of the Natural World Although liquid kelp products may be derived from the same source, they are not the same. Most liquid kelps are formulated using heat and harsh chemical solvents. Kelp+ is extracted physically via unique rhizobond infusion technology. Kelp+ is affordable and offers twice the concentration of similar products. Kelp+ is fortified with sea minerals and other select arcane ingredients. The yin/yang of sea vegetation and sea water is something your garden will not soon forget. Kelp acts as a plant growth regulator when used at higher concentrations. Visit your favorite hydro shop for more information.
Award Winning Reflective Foils Produced exclusively for the North American hydroponic and horticultural market, Easy Grow Ltd. is proud to announce the creation of 25 and 50 foot rolls of their famous food grade, reflective foils in Lightite and Eco. The Diamond Diffusion and Silver/White Lightite foils are over five millimeters thick and the Eco foils are three millimeters thick. All Easy Grow foils offer the same guarantee of non-gassing, food grade material with only clean virgin (non-recycled) polymers used in the production process. For more information visit an indoor gardening shop.
Trim More, Faster with the Twister Keirton Manufacturing's flagship product, the Twister, is the world's leading commercial leaf trimmer designed for large-scale growers. The all new 2010 Twister features a Teflon-coated tumbler; a re-engineered vacuum that provides even greater precision; and watertight electrical and motors that allow you to pressure wash the entire unit. The Twister features 11 self-sharpening blades that deliver over 320 cuts per second. It is completely serviceable by the end-user and includes a one year warranty for parts and labor. For more information visit your local grow shop.
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Growing plants in compressed air aeroponic systems is an efficient art. True aeroponic systems have the potential to conserve fresh water, one of nature’s most precious resources. By providing plants with just the right amount of water and nutrients they need to grow, water waste is minimal. Due to our population’s predicted exponential growth in the next 40 years, the need for clean, fresh water for food crops is dire. According to Scientific American magazine, 70 per cent of the earth’s fresh water is used for agriculture. By 2050, fresh water will become an extremely valuable and expensive commodity unless water collection techniques are improved. Enter the age of compressed air aeroponic systems. Compressed air aeroponic systems use water and nutrients efficiently, which reduces the cost of food production and increases profits.
on
Compr ess ed Ai r
ADVANCED AEROPONICS:
Plants grow faster in true aeroponic systems because the nutrient solution is instantly available for the plants to metabolize. Essentially, there are no barriers between the nutrient solution and cells (root hairs) that consume the plant food. Root zone health is extremely important to the success of any growing system, but in a true aeroponic system the roots not only live but thrive. In the case of compressed air aeroponics, plant metabolism is also greatly increased when nutrient solution is fogged into the root zone at the optimal micron size, (0-30 microns) allowing the plants to absorb the solution without causing damage to the root hairs. If the micron size of the fog is too large or too small the aeroponic system will not function properly and will cause root zone damage and potentially crop failure.
“It takes time to persuade men to do even what is for their own good.” – Thomas Jefferson 48
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Advanced Aeroponics The most amazing thing about compressed air aeroponic systems is the amount of root hairs that grow in the root chamber. In case you are unfamiliar, root hairs are those fuzzy roots that can be seen after your cuttings have anchored in a starter cube.They usually expand perpendicular to the main and lateral roots.They are extremely fragile and most aeroponic systems cannot produce them at all. Root hairs are single-walled cells, which is why they are so good at absorption.They are approximately one micron wide and up to three millimeters long depending on plant species. Root hairs grow rapidly and can be multiplied with the correct root hormones. In compressed air aeroponic systems root hairs can be re-grown if damage occurs in the root zone due to drying out or over saturation.This is very uncommon if not impossible in a typical spray-o-ponic system. These fine root hairs drastically increase the absorption rate of
“Plant growth is positively correlated to root respiration.” the root zone; they are the point at which Mycorrhizal fungi and beneficial bacteria colonize, forming the symbiotic relationship between bacteria, fungus, roots and nutrients. More research needs to be done to study the relationship of root hairs and root respiration. Root respiration is the gas exchange that occurs in the root zone by which O2 is consumed and CO2 is released (either by beneficial bacteria and fungi or the plant itself). Plant growth is positively correlated to root respiration—hence the smart pot craze.With compressed air aeroponic systems fresh O2 is repeatedly injected into the root zone every time the fog nozzle turns on.This replenishment of oxygen around the root zone is one of the catalysts for true aeroponic growth.With the advent of compressed air aeroponic systems gardeners will see increased yields per square foot and plants pushing the limits of their genetic potential.
Fresh aeroponic roots forming at 12 days. Notice the lack of root hair due to over fogging.
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Advanced Aeroponics Conventionally-grown crops (in soil) carry many problems not seen in indoor, hydroponic or aeroponic gardens.With aeroponics, soil pH is no longer a problem. Parasites that commonly breed in soil are no longer a problem. Soil borne pathogens and parasitic fungi (Pythium and Fusarium) are a non-issue as well. People might think that root rot only happens in hydroponics but overwater you soil garden or use stagnate pond water on your soil-grown plants and your roots will rot. In soil gardens root diseases are impossible to see while in an aeroponic system it is very easy to tell if your root zone is healthy and growing. When you grow aeroponically you get to start from scratch with pure water (0 PPM), exact minerals and the proper concentrations of nutrients, exact beneficial fungi (endomycorrhizae), exact sugars (digested cane sugar) and exact beneficial bacteria that plants crave. Compressed air aeroponic set-up. Aeroponics gives the grower total control over what their plants consume.The grower can maximize flavors and yields and control One of the most outstanding advantages of these systems is the consistency, quantity and quality. quality of the end product.When plants are grown aeroponically Compressed air aeroponic systems can be automated so very little the roots are flushed completely. At harvest pure water is fogged into the root zone forcing physical effort is required the plant to consume any the grower once the “Aeroponics gives the grower total con- from remaining carbohydrates it system is set up properly. trol over what their plants consume.” At the hobbyist level, this has stored. Improved flavors are apparent in food grown is great for people with aeroponically. As aeroponic systems gain popularity, consumers will disabilities or the elderly. On a commercial level it is much easier to become conscious of aeroponic produce and seek it out. produce large volumes of produce. Automation reduces the need to hand water and feed.You simply need to make sure all of the parameters are set correctly. If the nutrient solution is properly stored the reservoir can last for long periods of time.The nice thing about an automated garden is that you can focus on plant maintenance, pruning and the other aspects of gardening that will increase your yields. Compressed air aeroponic systems may not be for everyone. A good understanding of water purification, reagent grade nutrients, plant genetics, full spectrum lighting, sealed environment agriculture, compost tea and other intricacies is recommended. Compressed air aeroponic systems are more expensive to set up but the benefits and advantages will far outweigh the initial set up costs.With a little time and understanding the techniques to successful aeroponic growing can be learned. In the near future, compressed air aeroponic systems may become the standard way to grow high value crops. After all, the proof is in the pudding, and MY aeroponic pudding tastes great. Compressed air aeroponic cuttings
References: Despommier, Dickson. “Growing Skyscrapers: The Rise of Vertical Farms.” Scientific American (November, 2009). Segal, Eran, Tammi Kushnir, Yechezekel Mualem, and Uri Shani. “Water Uptake and Hydraulics of the Root Hair Rhizosphere.” (2007).
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Light
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Intensity Matters Photosynthesis is the process plants use to convert light into food. In addition to the spectrum of the light received, the intensity of the light also plays a large role in this vital process. Photosynthesis usually occurs in the leaves of the plants. The green color of the leaves comes from chlorophyll, the pigment that absorbs red and blue light energy and reflects green. Chlorophyll is found in the interior of the leaves in structures called chloroplasts. Light must pass through several layers before it can reach the chlorophyll. Even then, the chlorophyll only serves to harvest the light photons. The photon is passed on from molecule to molecule until it is trapped by photosynthetic reaction centers located deep within the chloroplast. These reaction centers then take the light energy to be used in the photosynthetic process. A reaction center intercepts only around one photon every second, so chlorophyll’s ability to capture light is critical. The more photons there are, the more chances the chlorophyll will have to transfer the photons to a reaction center. This is where light intensity becomes an issue. More intense light means that more photons are being emitted, which increases the probability that a photon will reach a reaction center. Take a simple ring toss for example: the more rings you throw, the higher are your chances that you will hit a target bottle. In the same way, plants benefit from higher light intensity because a higher concentration of photons results in higher photosynthetic productivity.
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A New Breed of LED LED light intensity experiment with tomatoes
The “More” Factor Heat from broadband sources has long limited the amount of light supplied to plants. Such light, including the sun, emits more of the light spectrum than what is required for photosynthesis. Much of this light gives off heat, which is crippling to plant performance if the temperature of the environment is elevated beyond what plants can tolerate. Artificial sunlight sources create heat due to their inefficiency in converting energy from electricity to light. If the lights are placed too close to the grow area, the plants will burn from convection or radiation. This is not an issue for LEDs. The ability of LEDs to specify wavelengths eliminates the excess light that contributes to unwanted heat. LEDs are a naturally cool light that efficiently converts electricity to light. Growers will be able to place more LEDs over their plants to give that extra boost of light without having to worry about heat.
So what’s the problem? If this is the case, why haven’t most growers moved on to LEDs? Simply put, some LED grow lights don’t have enough light intensity for photosynthesis to occur. Although LEDs have the capability to specify wavelengths, some LED lights just aren’t manufactured for effective plant growth. These fixtures are built with an LED die placed in a reflective cavity, bonded to two electrical contacts, and then sealed by an epoxy or plastic lens. The LEDs are then assembled by sparsely populating single LED chips over sheet metal and secured in a panel. The goal of this light is to provide broad, widespread light for general illumination purposes, or to use as decorative color changing Christmas lights. However, this bulky packaging limits the amount of LED lights that can be placed over plants, especially when the fixture is almost as large as the grow area! If growers can’t use more LED lights over the grow area, the light intensity issue of these LED fixtures has to be remedied. General consensus is that LEDs do work, but the overall intensity of the light is not enough. LEDs cannot be used to grow tall plants because of this shallow penetration. Leaves closer to the roots will wither over time. Most LED lights have to work in conjunction with T5 lights, or lower power HID lights in order to be effective. 58
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A New Breed of LED Now half a century after LEDs were first introduced, a new LED platform is finally here. A scientific breakthrough has resulted in a material that dissipates heat rapidly. When LED chips are placed on this material, they are able to draw heat away quickly and efficiently. This advancement enables LED dies to be placed in close proximity to form a dense “matrix LED” platform. This platform can populate more than 20 LED chips in an area no greater than a dime. What results is directional light that focuses on a much smaller area through an expertly designed reflector. This compact LED provides cool but intense light through this reflector for more photons. In addition, growers can place multiple panels of these lights over their plants. With more light that provides more photons for better photosynthesis, growers can expect a boost in plant performance. The difference in the two packaging approaches for LEDs is seen in the simple illustration below. The picture demonstrates an analogy using two different nozzles mounted on the same garden hose. On the left, water sprinkles out of many tiny pores from the sunflower-type nozzle. In contrast, the picture on the right shows a single jet of water from an industrial pistol nozzle. The sprayer on the left merely mists the surface of the plants while the steady stream on the right cuts straight down to the soil. Although the amount of water is the same for both hose heads, the nozzle from the right picture is drastically more effective in reaching plant roots. Let’s apply the garden hose example to LEDs. Imagine the water as light. The typical LED light has tiny chips spread over a wide area similar to the individual holes that water trickles through on the left picture with the sunflower nozzle, and puts out equally weak light. Conversely, imagine if the light has many LED chips densely grouped together to send out an intense beam that behaves like the jet stream shooting out of the pistol nozzle in the right picture. Instead of sprinkling misty light onto the plant’s surface, you would be able to inject light straight down to allow photosynthesis to also happen in the plant’s lower tiers. With more of these lights over a grow area, all parts of the plants will be able to carry out photosynthesis effectively!
Garden hose comparison
The left side demonstrates how a sunflower type head is similar to current LED grow panels, while the right side shows how a pistol type head is comparable to the new dense matrix LED platform.
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A New Breed of LED testing was done in a controlled four by four foot growing area and closely monitored. Although the experiment is still in progress, plant growth is evident. Leaves grew wider with a darker green color indicating high levels of chlorophyll even in the lowest tier of the plants. With this added intensity, the tomato plants began to flower in just two weeks. The flowering stage for these tomatoes began early in comparison to the plants in the previous experiment, which began to flower after four weeks. It is clear that these tomato plants benefited from the extra boost of light.
Conclusion Effective LEDs are able to deliver intense light that penetrates down to the lowest levels on a plant.
LEDs and Tomato Plants In a lab setting, we tested the effectiveness of this new LED platform over tomato plants in a four by four foot growing area. Six LED lights totaling around 200 watts were hung over nine tomato plants. The lights were scheduled for an 18 hour on and six hour off cycle, and growth of the tomatoes was monitored for two months. After a month the tomatoes began to flower under the LED lights. The light was
able to penetrate down to the lowest levels of the plant, giving the amount of light needed for photosynthesis. In six weeks, the tomatoes began producing fruit even in the bottom tiers of the plant. After two months of testing, the tomato fruits closest to the roots were abundant and healthy. In a separate experiment, we doubled the intensity of the LED lights to about 400 watts over the tomatoes in their vegetative phase. As with the previous experiment, the
The new dense matrix LED platform revolutionizes the horticulture industry. Growers can now deliver depth penetration that plants need. This advancement provides more intense light, producing tall and healthy plants. LEDs are naturally cool so growers can add even more LEDs to increase the light intensity and supply optimal light to plants. This platform carries plants from vegetation to flowering and fruiting, without the need for additional supplement lighting. The light penetrating capabilities in combination with the spectral offerings of LEDs will give growers even more control over how their plants grow. MY
The area containing the LED chips on a dense matrix platform is no bigger than a dime.
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HowHydroponic Do Systems Work? by J. Benton Jones, Jr.
Introduction This article is part of a series describing how
hydroponic systems work. I will cover those systems that don’t use a rooting medium, followed by a description on how those hydroponic systems work using a rooting medium. I will also detail the formulation and use of nutrient solutions.This series of articles will provide a complete description of how plants can be grown hydroponically.
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hydro organics full
How Do Hydroponic Systems Work?
Nutrient Solution Management
There is commonality among all hydroponic systems based on how the nutrient solution is managed: In an “open” system the nutrient solution is passed just one time through the plant’s root mass or rooting medium, and then discarded. In a “closed” system the nutrient solution is recovered and re-circulated after passing through the plant’s root mass or rooting medium. The “open” system can be wasteful in its use of water and reagents depending on how the root mass or rooting medium that passes through is conducted.With this system plant roots are exposed to a constant composition nutrient solution. Normally with this system, the nutrient solution is formulated by injecting elemental concentrates into a flowing stream of water, therefore, not requiring a storage vessel for the formulated nutrient solution. With the “closed” system, there must be a means of recovering the nutrient solution after it passes through the root mass or rooting medium as well as a nutrient solution storage system consisting of vessels whose number and capacity will depend on the size of the system.There are several options on how the recovered nutrient solution is treated before its recirculation.Water is usually added to bring the nutrient solution back to its original volume. It then can either be re-circulated without further treatment; its pH and nutrient element contents determined and adjusted to bring both back to their original levels; or filtered to remove suspended substances; or sterilized by heat, ozone injection or ultraviolet (UV) exposure; or aerated by bubbling air through it.Without these further treatments, nutrient insufficiencies and plant root diseases can occur. Depending on how the recovered nutrient solution is treated, continuous use is possible over the entire lifecycle of the plants. For both systems, spent nutrient solution may be considered a “hazardous waste,” depending on local regulations, therefore, it may require specialized disposal procedures.
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How Do Hydroponic Systems Work?
Systems without rooting medium
There are three hydroponic growing systems: aerated standing or circulated aerated nutrient solution; Nutrient Film Technique (NFT); and aeroponics, with the roots immersed in a nutrient solution or either continuously or periodically bathed with a nutrient solution.
1
Aerated standing or circulated aerated nutrient solution
Roots are suspended in a nutrient solution that is continuously aerated.The size of the rooting vessel and nutrient solution composition and volume depends on the plant species being grown (figure one).This hydroponic method of growing is used by plant scientists when control of the nutrient element root environment is required. Most of the essential minerals were
“Nutrient solution will either require replacement with fresh solution, or periodical amendments to restore it to its initial composition� isolated and identified as such with plants growing in specially prepared aerated nutrient solutions.The composition of the nutrient solution charges with time, the rapidity and extent of charge determined by the number of plants, their size and stage of growth, and the volume of nutrient solution per plant. Therefore, the nutrient solution will either require replacement with fresh solution, or periodical amendments to restore it to its initial composition.This method is for the growing of individual or small groups of plants, and therefore is not suited for the commercial production of plants.
Figure 1: Illustrated standing-aerated nutrient solution technique
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How Do Hydroponic Systems Work?
Figure 2: Lettuce plants growing on rafts floating on a pool of aerated nutrient solution. Lettuce plants shown at various stages of maturity in a greenhouse setting.
A commercial application of this technique is the growing of short stem plants, such as lettuce and herbs, those that come to maturity is a short time period (30 to 45 days), whose roots are immersed in a pond of nutrient solution.The nutrient solution pond must be level and watertight. It can be constructed using plastic sheeting of varying dimensions and depth, or made from other water-holding materials.There is a requirement for pumps, piping and storage containers.Their number and capacity depends on the size of the nutrient
solution pond. A small child’s plastic swimming pool could be used as the nutrient solution pond for home garden use when using this method. Plant seedlings, rooted in cups of medium or germination cubes, are placed in openings in a raft that is floated on the surface of a depth (usually five to six inches) of nutrient solution that is being continuously aerated or circulated as the means for aeration (figure 2). For raft material, Styrofoam is a suitable, inexpensive and durable
substance that can be either discarded when the crop is harvested or reused after sterilization. By increasing the depth of nutrient solution, the effects due to changing temperatures are minimized, and with increasing volume, the nutrient solution will require modification or replacement less frequently. One objective would be to have sufficient volume of nutrient solution to carry plants from the seedling stage to harvest with minimal or no modification or replacement.The nutrient solution requires continuous aeration or circulation to maintain the desired oxygen (O2). Root disease is a constant threat and may be difficult to control. The system can be used outdoors when rainfall is infrequent or light.The method is wasteful of water and reagents as eventually the nutrient solution must be discarded.
2
Nutrient Film Technique (NFT)
In 1975, the Nutrient Film Technique aka NFT (sometimes the word flow is used instead for film) was introduced.The acronym NFT was coined by its inventor, Alan Cooper.This technique replaced the common flood-and-drain and increased interest in the commercial production of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and lettuce. In the NFT system, plants, usually rooted in a rockwool cube or block of similar rooting 68
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How Do Hydroponic Systems Work?
3 inch Block An illustration for an NFT hydroponic growing system.
medium, are set in an enclosed sloping (two to three per cent slope) trough with a nutrient solution periodically introduced at the head of the trough.The trough may be made of plastic sheeting enclosing the plant roots or from formed plastic. In figure three, a rockwool cube sits in an enclosed plastic sheet trough, and the NFT system operation is illustrated in figure four. Sufficient nutrient solution is discharged into the head of the trough so that there is an outflow of the nutrient solution at the end of the trough. For long-term crops, such as tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, roots will eventually fill the trough.The flow of nutrient solution is impeded, moving over the top of the root mass (not through
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Figure 3: Illustrated cross-section view of a tomato plant germinated in a rockwool cube setting in an NFT trough.
the roots). An aerobic condition develops within the root mass, and then roots cease to function, resulting in their death. Therefore, the NFT method has primarily been limited to the production of lettuce, or other short-term crops, where root mass is not a factor in the movement of nutrient solution.To overcome the root mass factor, very wide troughs has been considered in order to accommodate a greater root mass. The use of a “W� shaped trough has been
tested, splitting the roots into two sections, providing additional control of the nutrient solution/water flow. One side may be used for water additions, the other nutrient solution. Both trough designs have proved to be impractical. Trough length and the volume of nutrient solution applied with each irrigation can affect plant performance due to changes in oxygen (O2) and elemental content occurring in the flowing nutrient solution. The volume and timing of nutrient solution introduction may be by determined by a schedule or by the water needs of the plants. Retention of the applied nutrient solution in the root mass will impact plant growth, therefore, it’s recommended that water only be applied between each irrigation. For better control of plant nutrition, some recommend applying a concentrated nutrient solution at the beginning of each day, followed by either a dilute nutrient solution or water only when the plants require water.With each of these nutrient solution/water systems, separate delivery and recovery tanks are needed. Root disease is a constant threat and may be difficult to control.With re-circulation of the nutrient solution, volume, pH and essential element adjustments as well as filtering to remove suspended materials and sterilization are required.
How Do Hydroponic Systems Work?
3
Aeroponics
Plant roots are suspended in an enclosed chamber, and either continuously or intermittently bathed with a spray or mist of nutrient solution. Roots are essentially growing in air that promotes root generation and extensive growth.Therefore, aeroponics has been successfully used for root initiation for those plant species difficult to root from cuttings.The procedure is well suited for growing small plants, such as lettuce and herbs, particularly for herbs when the roots are the primary selected plant part. Finer water droplets will more easily adhere to the roots.With small nozzle diameters, a stronger pressure is required to discharge the nutrient solution through the nozzle. In addition, the nutrient solution must be kept free of suspended materials that would clog nozzle openings. Under high atmospheric conditions, this system may not be sufficient to meet the plant’s water needs.Therefore, in some designs, a shallow pool of nutrient solution is allowed to accumulate in the bottom of the rooting chamber so that a portion of the roots can lie in this pool serving as a supply of needed water. Precautions are needed since there is danger of root disease occurrence due to the high atmospheric humidity and warm growing conditions in the rooting chamber.The nutrient solution formulation must sufficiently meet the nutritional needs of the plant since elemental root contact is intermittent.
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Nutrient solution passing through a laser holed pipe. Nutrient solution injected through a nozzle.
Figure 4: Illustrated drawing of plants with their roots suspended in a chamber.
Being a “closed� system, the nutrient solution will require adjustment, filtering and sterilization between each re-circulation.
Summary
These three hydroponic systems have unique capabilities that are applicable to specific growing conditions when control of the nutrient solution is required and for use with plant species when a particular nutrient element outcome is desired. None have application for the large-scale commercial production of plants MY except for lettuce and herbs.
Not Convinced?
Why Water Quality is Essential to Plant Health by Trevor Holt
When choosing an appropriate site for a hydroponic set-up we sometimes overlook the quality of the water that supplies the site. The way you water your plants and the amount of water you give them can be a major factor in the plant’s overall health.You have to ask the question, “How clean is the water?” Most town water should be suitable for plant growth, however, I would advise you invest in a water purification system, not only for the plant’s benefit but also your own! You just don’t know what is being thrown into the water to make it safe to drink. A few years ago we experienced a Cryptosporidium and Giardia outbreak. As well as people getting sick, there was a major rush of growers experiencing root zone problems. No matter what they did the problem continued to haunt them. Initially, they blamed everything from the nutrient they were using to propagation gels, additives and the advice they received. As each case was investigated they found that even though all systems, lighting, airflow, growing methods and nutrients used were very diverse, all growers had the same problem. Naturally a common denominator was researched and it was, of course, water. Some growers were hard to convince, considering they were on town supply and, therefore, the overriding belief was the water quality must be of a high standard (if it’s safe to drink it must be okay for my plants). Not so. Did you know that over 50 different chemicals can be legally added to our town water supply in order to make it safer to drink without us even knowing? Here are just a few of the major ones that can also affect your plants: calcium hydroxide, potassium aluminum sulfate, liquefied chlorine, sodium silicofluoride, sodium hypochlorite solution, fluorosilicic acid and various other electrolytes. This is not taking into account the number of chemicals that are added to our water supplies unintentionally. Most of our catchment areas are exposed to the elements, some of which may include lead, copper, pesticides, 76
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herbicides, asbestos and raw sewage. I’ve seen plants that look absolutely amazing when small and as soon as they are exposed to the main system, they crash. Why? Poor water quality. Even if you are drawing your water from bores or rainwater from the roof, you still run the risk of collecting a high mineral load, which when fed to your plants can affect the nutrient levels, potentially giving your crop toxic shock. Rusty, galvanized or copper pipes also contribute to higher levels of heavy metals such as zinc (zincalume) and iron in the solution. If these metals are present in any quantity, your plant will experience toxicity symptoms even if you are using a balanced full spectrum nutrient. A good way to check if your water is suitable is via a digital salt meter (nutrient tester). If you get a reading in water above one conductivity factor (CF) you would be wise to consider a water purifier of some sort. The purer the water and the more neutral the pH in your water supply, the better. Before I continue, I have to tell you that out of all the growers who were
experiencing root zone problems, only one continued having problems (eventually driving the client to abandon hydroponics) because he was the only one who didn’t buy a water purifier. For a small investment of around $200, he lost a fortune. Think about it. Overwatering is a common problem with novice and experienced growers alike. Commonly known as killing plants with kindness, most growers assume that the plant will take as much water as you can throw at it. This is another fallacy. If the water you are supplying to the plant does not have the right oxygen, nutrient, pH and water mix, the plants can actually drown in a saturated mess. Oxygen is unable to get to the plant and consequently they start to suffer, developing deficiency symptoms. Brown, blotchy leaves turn down and start to wilt. The grower panics and throws more water and nutrient in the system, unwittingly overdosing their beloved plants; the end result - the plant dies. If you experience this, you need to drain off the media completely.You can gradually bring the plant back to good health by feeding it oxygen-rich pure water. Good drainage is essential to the recovery process; therefore, consider the media (substrate) you are using. If you are doing everything right, new growth should start to appear in approximately two weeks. Plants generally take about that long to recover from a stressful situation. Underwatering produces very similar symptoms; however, they can occur more quickly with more dramatic consequences. It can be a scary sight to check your garden and find your entire crop has suddenly wilted overnight. The problem is a result of one thing: lack of water. Check that your water pump is working and is clear of any root matter or fine media particles. Take the pump apart and clean it thoroughly. If this is the problem, it is easy to rectify and the plants should recover with no noticeable damage within a couple of hours. Once the watering
Commonly known as 'killing plants with kindness', most growers assume that the plant will take as much water as you can throw at it. If the water you are supplying to the plant does not have the right oxygen, nutrient, pH and water mix, the plants can actually drown in a saturated mess.
cycle resumes, hourly checks to mark the recovery progress must be adhered to. Regular maintenance of everything that services the growing environment is essential, which will ultimately lead to a successful end result. Try to visit your greenhouse or grow room once a day to avoid the above mentioned catastrophes, especially during the flowering stage. Think of it this way: “A little maintenance a day keeps the problems away,” and you’ll get to reap the benefits at harvest time. Oxygenation’s Role in Healthy Water Oxygen keeps a plant’s root zone healthy and allows the uptake of nutrients. Oxygen is the key to a high growth rate. Without oxygen around the roots, the root cells would die leading to root rot (Pythium) and the eventual death of the plant. You cannot grow in water unless you have dissolved oxygen in it, so a well oxygenated nutrient solution is essential for a healthy root zone. The fine root hairs take up the nutrients and oxygen, and obviously the more root development, the more nutrients the plant can take up, hence a healthier plant and better yields. If you have still and stagnant water you’re asking for trouble because that will cause root death due to oxygen depletion, which in turn could cause Pythium, a fungal disease, to run rampant, or even attract harmful bugs like the scarid fly (fungus gnats). Recirculating systems add that essential element, oxygen, to hydroponics. When oxygen increases, so does growth, and in many ways it is more important to consider than nutrients. Root zone temperature also plays a very important part in overall tank control, and the ability for plants to take up oxygen, water and nutrient. The ideal root zone temperature is between 68 and 75°F. If the temperature falls below 68°F plant growth will begin to slow, and if it reaches 57°F, plant growth will stop altogether. On the other hand if the root zone temperature rises above 75°F the need for oxygen by the plant increases as the dissolved oxygen that is in the tank decreases. This can have a devastating effect on the plant and can accelerate outbreaks of Pythium spores and other root zone diseases. My golden rule of oxygen: plants cannot take up their nutrients unless oxygen is present. The more oxygen, the faster the uptake of nutrient, but watch the MY temperature too! MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
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Aeroponics in Space
by Philip McIntosh Photos courtesy of Remy Dou
At Miami Christian School (MCS) in Miami, Florida (USA), word about Mr. Dou's new science elective has gotten around. First offered in the 2009-2010 school year, “Aeroponics in Space� is off to a good start thanks to good planning and a group of dedicated and engaged students. Kids at the school are getting hands-on technical training as well as a theoretical background in science and engineering, in this learner-centered, project-based class. The course features integrated subject matter and includes opportunities to develop important skills such as teamwork, design, communication and problem solving.
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“This is an enticing and rich enough topic to keep students involved in their education, ...It also sparks a passion for agriculture.”
The class is organized into four parts, each part having a specific objective. Students are divided into teams each with a captain who is responsible for keeping the team on track. The student teams set out to accomplish four goals: (1) research and apply aeroponic methods to the growth of three types of vegetables; (2) perform an experiment to determine the effectiveness of aeroponics in comparison with traditional farming; (3) design and create a space-worthy aeroponic system with a limited budget; and (4) design and implement a community outreach event to educate your community on the benefits of aeroponics. Teams maintained a record of their progress and provided status updates on a team web page for the course. By studying how plants grow and respond under aeroponic culture, Mr. Dou hopes the students will make connections between the ancient practice of agriculture and the latest advances in food production. “This is an enticing and rich enough topic to keep students involved in their education,” says Dou, adding, “It also sparks a passion for agriculture, something which our city lives have numbed many of us to.”
The aeroponics greenhouse at Miami Christian School.
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Although the program is mostly Dou's creation, others at MCS have contributed. School administrators support the program. The school paid for the underground cables and pipes that provided power and water to the greenhouse. Other teachers in the building schedule in-house field trips to observe the work in progress, and introduce other students to hydroponics.
Aeroponics operation in the MCS greenhouse.
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Mr. Dou has not designed a course geared toward an easy A. “The goals were demanding,” says Dou, “but I believe that students saw that their work and contribution made a difference not only in their grade, but what was for them, a completely new field of study.” Student interest in the program remains high, as word has gotten around that the class is a positive and motivating experience. Funding an Innovative Curriculum Mr. Dou’s program got its start with a Toyota Tapestry Grant in 2009. He remembers getting a Toyota Tapestry flyer in his mailbox. “Dr. Teri Logan, my associate schoolhead, encouraged me to fill out the grant application. I had never applied for a grant or written a grant proposal before. I had no idea of the kind of work that I was in for.” Although Dou had little prior experience with hydroponics or plant science, the topic of hydroponics just popped into his mind while thinking of project ideas. “Initially, I wanted to do a gene mapping project with bacteria or plants,” he relates, “but the equipment is very expensive and the methods can be lengthy and complicated. Hydroponics just seemed to recur in my thoughts.” There was just one problem—the Tapestry grant website clearly
stated that they wanted nothing to do with hydroponics. Not to let a rule stand in the way of a good idea, Dou researched NASA's work on aeroponics and decided that it might be enough of a twist to create an aquaponics-based program that would be worth funding. Dou proceeded to create a detailed description and plan for a yearlong program to be known as “Aquaponics in Space.” The application deadline was about two months away, and he immersed himself in the task. After many
Science, Engineering and Community Come Together The school's aeroponics equipment consists of two 30 site aeroponic systems installed in an eight by 16 foot greenhouse.
“The goals were demanding, but I believe that students saw that their work and contribution made a difference not only in their grade, but what was for them, a completely new field of study.” hours of planning and writing, he submitted his application. It was one of 50 selected for a $10,000 Tapestry Grant. Dou has kept up the momentum with an additional $3,500 from a Classroom Earth National High School Challenge grant, sponsored by the National Environmental Education Foundation in association with the Weather Channel. Only 10 proposals in the entire nation were chosen.
Students teaching an elementary school class about hydroponics at a community event.
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The students gained initial experience with the systems by germinating seeds of tomato, cucumber, green pepper, onion, radish, corn, squash, pumpkin, lettuce and peas, and transferring samples of each to the aeroponic units. The plants were assigned to one of the two 30 site units based on nutritional needs. Different nutrient solutions are used in each system. From this point on, the students had to do everything, from monitoring and recording experimental data to maintaining and repairing the system as needed. The aeroponics units were in continuous operation, with monthly system flushes and pump filter replacement.
Mr. Dou discusses an application with students.
The students had to kick it up a notch for the second half of the course, when they had to design and construct their own aeroponics systems. They got their materials from wherever they could, including local department and building supply stores. Most teams presented designs that were straightforward assemblages of plastic containers and tubing, but some created novel solutions. One team used a humidifier and some nebulizers to create a nutrient fogging system. Another team converted a trash can into an aeroponic vegetable garden. For the community outreach portion, each team was given a budget of $400 (grant funded) to use in planning and carrying out their community outreach event. One team visited an elementary school and taught children the basics of how to grow plants using aeroponics. A couple of the student-built aeroponic systems were donated to a charter school, and another team managed to reserve an auditorium at the Miami Children's Museum where they presented an interactive lesson on aeroponics to two large groups. Real Applications and Problems Since the beginning of "Aeroponics in Space," it has been Remy Dou’s vision that his students will take ownership of their own learning. The course is designed to provide a learnercentered environment based on “inquiry and doing” not “lecture and note taking.” With many different things going on 82
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at once in class, Dou more often plays the role of a coach/counselor rather than that of a traditional classroom teacher. Dou and his students learned through direct experience how to overcome setbacks and maintain a flexible plan. As is often the case in the real world, challenging projects often are beset with unexpected setbacks. One problem was the slow delivery of supplies ordered online; this put a degree of unexpected time pressure on the teams. Since no one was an expert grower, the students (and teacher) had to learn the practical ins and outs of hydroculture applied to a variety of plant species. Interestingly, the class was unable to find any local hydroponics experts to consult with. Most research for the course was done on the Internet. Much was learned, sometimes by trial and error, by doing the work, performing the experiments and analyzing the data. Looking Ahead Dou is already planning for the 2010-2011 school year. One goal for the upcoming course will be to investigate why some plants are more successful than others in aeroponic gardens. “When we grew pumpkin and squash last year our plants grew poorly, slow
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and almost always developed fungal growth," says Dou. "On the other hand, cucumber and tomato thrived in the systems.” With continued funding, Dou plans to purchase sensors to better measure and monitor nutrient solution parameters. Planned microscope camera upgrades will improve the analysis of root morphology under different treatments. Although the equipment for the class is in storage for the summer, Mr. Dou and his students will be ready to set it up later in 2010. The next offering of “Aeroponics in Space” will no doubt build upon the work done thus far by Remy Dou and the community of learners at Miami MY Christian School.
Since the beginning of "Aeroponics in Space," it has been Remy Dou’s vision that his students will take ownership of their own learning. With many different things going on at once in class, Dou more often plays the role of a coach/counselor rather than that of a traditional classroom teacher.
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GROWING FOR HEALTH
by Emma Cooper
When I was growing up, one of my favorite meals was gammon with parsley sauce. So when I started my own kitchen garden, I was determined to grow plenty of parsley. I found that even with just a few containers on the patio, it was easy to grow plenty of fresh parsley and it was much cheaper than the herbs on sale at the grocery store. There are two main types of parsley. Curly parsley is very pretty, and looks great when it’s growing (try using it as an edging plant) and as a garnish on the plate. The other type, flat-leafed parsley, is thought to have a better flavor and is therefore the choice of chefs and keen cooks.
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Parsley grows best indoors, as warm growing conditions initiate quick seed germination.
Both types are grown in the same way.The seeds can be slow to germinate outdoors so growing them indoors is preferable. If you start them in pots undercover they will germinate faster, and the seedlings don’t mind being transplanted. Keep them well watered until they are established. Parsley grows well in containers, and can tolerate some shade. It likes a more plentiful supply of water than some other herbs, and you’ll get better crops if the plants aren’t thirsty. A container grown plant will need feeding to keep growing fresh leaves. Slugs will attack young seedlings, but once the plants have reached a reasonable size they’re pretty much trouble-free. A sowing in late summer will give you fresh leaves through mild winters (or indoors) and crops in spring before the spring-sown plants mature. Parsley is a biennial, so it will flower in its second season. If you have the space, try leaving a flowering plant in place. Outdoors it will attract beneficial insects into the garden, and you can try saving your own parsley seeds for next year. Two more unusual plants that you might want to consider growing are Hamburg parsley and Par-Cel. Hamburg parsley is a root crop, commonly grown in Europe, with a parsley flavor. Par-Cel is an herb that looks like parsley, but tastes like celery. Both can be grown from seed, so keep an eye out for them in your seed catalogs. MY Emma Cooper is the voice of the Alternative Kitchen Garden podcast and writes about kitchen gardening and environmental issues. An edible plant geek, she tries to grow her own food sustainably with the help of a reluctant husband and two pet chickens. Visit http://coopette.com for more information.
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Chemical
Incompatibilities: Why and How to Avoid Them by Donald Lester
Every day more and more new products are coming into the market, each with a different chemistry or mode of action. With production costs spiraling upward growers are forced to be as efficient as possible in the delivery of these materials to their plants. So it is common for growers to try and mix several products in one tank rather than apply separate foliar applications or soil drenches. This is where problems, particularly chemical incompatibilities, can arise.
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Incompatibility in chemicals is quite common. Perhaps the most familiar example is our doctor or pharmacist warning us of possible drug interactions with the medications we take. The “Wiley Guide to Chemical Incompatibilities” lists over 9,000 incompatible chemical combinations. Of course, not all of these materials are used in garden, greenhouse or hydroponic products. But, this figure does give us some idea of the scope of the problem. And the problem of chemical incompatibility is getting worse because as the economy declines growers start looking for more all-in-one products to reduce application expenses. Generally, these products already have several ingredients in them so the chances of having incompatibility increases with the addition of more products.
“The ‘Wiley Guide to Chemical Incompatibilities’ lists over 9,000 incompatible chemical combinations.” Chemical incompatibility can manifest itself in many different ways: cloudiness in the mixture; precipitation or settling out of solids in the tank; formation of noxious or toxic fumes; excessive heat or fire; explosion; production of corrosive materials; formation of solids or films inside tanks and lines; ruptured containers; and plant phytotoxicity (i.e. burning) once the new mixture is applied. Mixes that settle out or become cloudy are insoluble and unavailable to the plant. Moreover, these deposits can clog dripper lines, plug filters and screens and degrade pump performance, not to mention the added headache of having to shut down the system and painstakingly clean each component.
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Chemical Incompatibilities: Why
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Precipitation (sedimentation) can occur because of a chemical reaction, or it can be caused by oversaturation where no chemical reaction takes place. For example, when we mix salt in water we can dissolve only so much salt. After we reach the saturation point any salt added will remain undissolved in the water. The amount of dissolvability remaining in a liquid is often referred to by formulators as how much “room” is left. If there is enough room then we can mix something else into the solution and have it all dissolve leaving a clear solution. If we run out of room then we get precipitation. This type of precipitation can often be overcome by mixing the first product in a large volume of water and then adding the second product afterward. External influences can have an impact on sedimentation too. The temperature of the air has an influence on sedimentation. The warmer a fluid is the more solids it can dissolve. Conversely, as a fluid gets colder it can hold less in solution (i.e. dissolve less solids). So, some tank mixes cannot be allowed to cool below a certain temperature point otherwise precipitation takes place.
The main way to avoid these problems is to read the product labels for known incompatibilities. Manufacturers try to test the most likely tank mixes of their products and give recommendations for those mixes. But manufacturers cannot test every combination of their product with all the other products on the market. It is simply not practical. This is why you will often see on chemical labels a recommendation to perform a “jar test” before mixing large quantities of product. The “jar test” is a quick method for determining if products are compatible. This simple test is performed by taking a clean glass jar and mixing the two (or more) products straight from the bottle in concentrated form. If precipitation is going to take place it will happen faster with concentrated chemicals. This simple test often helps growers avoid a tank full of useless liquid with a layer of sludge on the bottom, and a potential disposal problem. As a rule of thumb you can reasonably expect a reaction in the jar test if the two (or more) products have drastically different pH values. When I say drastically different I mean a difference of at least two pH units.You can usually find the pH values of the products on their respective Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS). These forms are available from the manufacturer and are usually posted on their websites for download. The pH of the water used for dilution can make a big difference in how chemicals react with each other. Sometimes an incompatibility between two chemicals can be made workable by adding an acidifier or water conditioning product. If the water pH is not near 7.0 then there is a good chance you will have to treat the water first to adjust the pH before making your tank mix. In general it is
“The ‘jar test’ is a quick method for determining if products are compatible.”
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better to adjust the pH of the water first rather than try to correct the solution pH once everything is mixed together. A common sense measure that often goes overlooked is proper cleaning of the mixing tank before starting a new mixture. Be sure the mixing tank has been cleaned well. I know of several people who have experienced a chemical incompatibility problem because they added products to a tank that still had chemical residues inside. Even small amounts of some chemicals can cause big problems in the right combination. In some complex mixes it may be necessary to mix the ingredients in a particular order or sequence. Sometimes you will see these sequences given on the label for more popular mixes that use tricky combinations of materials. Product manufacturers usually have highly trained chemists on staff who can guide you through these types of mixes. Go directly to the manufacturer for this type of advice because distributors and retailers usually do not have chemists on staff for this type of assistance.You can also consult
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Chemical Incompatibilities: Why
and
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“If precipitation is going to take place it will happen faster with concentrated chemicals.� university experts, usually free of charge, to help with troubleshooting. In some cases a chemist, or the label, will advise you to add one product to a large volume of water first before adding a second product. Sometimes this dilution with water will slow the chemical reaction enough Left: Water at the correct pH dissolves the materials to form a clear solution. so that the mixture can do its work in the plants Right: When a calcium product is added to high pH water, a cloudy, insoluble precipitate forms. before the reaction takes place. This is why you will see on some product labels that the mixture must be used incompatibilities. This may be one reason why beginners are within 24 or 48 hours of mixing. intimidated with the chemistry of plant products. But if you Many sophisticated growers like the flexibility of creating their read the labels; compare the pH values of the products; perform own special blend rather than buying generic off-the-shelf, one- the jar test; check the pH of your water; and seek qualified assissize-fits-all products. And growers tend to stick with mixes they tance from the manufacturer; you can avoid many of the more know will work for them. In having gone through the process common chemical incompatibility problems and create tank of finding that right mix growers invariably encounter product mixes that are right for your operation. MY
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10
Top
Strategies for Avoiding Chemical Icompatibility
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Read the label(s) for known incompatibilities. Make sure the pH values of the products do not differ by more than two units. Perform a “jar test.� Use clean, pH corrected water. Be sure the tank is clean before mixing. Add water to the tank first then the materials. Pay attention to mixing sequences. Use mixed product quickly; do not store for long periods. Mix in warm temperatures and do not allow the mixture to freeze. Consult the manufacturer of the product(s) or university experts for guidance.
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BEGINNER’S CORNER by Charlene Rennick
t c e Ins
n o i s a v n I
Meanwhile, back at the greenhouse... There are many ways that plant growth can be disrupted: insufficient light, not enough or too much water, imbalanced nutrients, not enough or too much humidity or lack of root development. In a hydroponic garden, these environmental controls are stabilized by the gardener, but occasionally indoor plants can be compromised by outside influences. Insects can destroy a crop in a relatively short period of time if the grower is not prepared for the onslaught. Bugs are sneaky. They can hitchhike into your home on fresh produce, potted plants, clothing or through an open door. These chompers with wings have different ways of attacking a plant. They can munch off the leaves it needs for development before it flowers or infiltrate the growing medium around the root system. Much like a military operation, the invasion of insects is organized, swift and specific. These flying teeth have goals. Sometimes an insect invasion is specific to one species of plant while others create a wider scope of destruction. What to look for and how to defend yourself Pests with teeth go for the fleshy part of the leaves, stems and flowers. They eat until there is nothing left but veins; a mere skeleton. Those without teeth still manage to make effective use of their mouths and will suck the sap right out of the plant. These bugs are trained in subterfuge and opt to attack from underneath the skin of the plant where they remain invisible to human detection.
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! t a n g the
Spot insects before the damage is done Even the stealthiest of insect attackers leave a trail of clues to follow. These can be used to establish their location and to expose their weaponry: teeth or without teeth. If teeth have been used, the carnage is obvious. Alternately, sap suckers are harder to detect. Plants that drop seemingly healthy leaves that have not discolored are one indication. A lifeless stem that cannot support the weight of the plant and failure to grow is another. An assessment of damage should be completed before any counterattacks are made. Can the plant come back from the injury or is it irreparable? Are the parts of the plant the bugs are using for food the same as yours or will you still have your harvest when it comes time? Is the damage to the plant going to prevent it from completing its growth cycle?
Non-toxic pest control for hydroponic gardens If you think the plant can overcome the attack, there are non-toxic treatments that can be used to save the plant without making its fruit inedible for humans. If your problem is mites or other chomping bugs, spraying the plant with a canola oil mixture will suffocate them. Pyrethrin is a natural pesticide derived from chrysanthemum flowers and has been successful in destroying insects without harming to the plant. Other effective organic substances available that destroy bugs without causing harm to the plant, the environment or people include: • brightly painted strips of paper slathered with Vaseline • predator bugs • cider vinegar/dish soap mixture
MY
c i x o t non-
Brightly painted strips of paper slathered with vaseline will attract and trap a variety of pests, keeping them away from your prized plants.
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&
Testing
Trialing
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by Dr. Lynette Morgan
Not all of us are science geeks, but sometimes we need science to help us make important decisions about how we grow our crops. Horticulture is one branch of applied science that there is still much to learn about and even small growers can discover and investigate new ideas. Most of us have tried a new product, nutrient formulation, growth promotant or pest spray to see how well it performs on our plants, but often the results are just speculation. Natural variation within biological systems involving plants is so common that determining if there is an actual effect can be difficult unless the set-up is precise and correct in the first place. However, with good planning, knowledge of the correct scientific method and some basic math, accurate testing and trialing is possible.
The dangers of informal comparisons Unfortunately many bad decisions and misinterpretations have been made because of informal plant tests. Applying a new product to be tested and ‘seeing how it goes’ doesn’t generate conclusive answers and may give an inaccurate result as to the effectiveness of the treatment. Tests must be compared to something else for the results to be relevant. The new idea, product or system is termed the ‘treatment’ and what it is compared against is called the ‘control.’ The control is a separate set of plants grown under the same conditions, to which the treatment is not applied. The treatment plants and control plants form the basis of the trial and accurate comparisons can be made.
Step 1. Ask a question All good experiments originate from a basic question. For instance,‘Will this new product make my crop grow faster or producer higher yields?’ Depending on your production philosophy, other questions might involve wanting to know if organic pest control methods are effective, or if water treatment reduces the occurrence of pythium. Asking such questions leads to forming the hypothesis of the experiment—a statement about what the predicted result of the experiment might be. The experiment either proves or disproves the hypothesis.
Just using one or two plants per treatment is not sufficient for a correctly run trial and may lead to incorrect conclusions.
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Step 2. Restrict biological bias
Step 3. Replication and randomization
The problem with plant trials is that plants are naturally quite To try and reduce the natural bias that plant experiments variable. Even within a crop sown at the same time, of the same are prone to, replication and randomization are used. In a cultivar and grown in the same environment, natural variations randomized experimental design, plants or plots of plants are will exist in growth and yields from plant to plant.With a correctly randomly assigned to an experimental group of treatment. run trial, we want to reduce this natural variation as much as Randomization is the most reliable way of creating treatment possible; otherwise we might incorrectly assume that some naturally groups that all start out exactly the same. It prevents the occurring differences were caused by the treatment we applied largest seedlings or heaviest plants from being selected for one and assume the wrong conclusions. A good example of natural treatment, while smaller plants end up in another—a major bias is taking one or two plants and applying different treatments source of bias that gives incorrect results. to each. Many plants are Replication is equally required to ensure that the important; sufficient replication “To try and reduce the natural differences are more likely improves the significance of bias that plant experiments to be due to the treatment the result and reduces result are prone to, replication and rather than just some natural variability. Generally in small variation between a small set experiments, three or more randomization are used.” of individual plants. Another replications are used, with common mistake is putting all of the treatment plants in a group each replication having at least six to 10 plants. For example, and putting the control plants in a separate group across the other in a basic experiment involving tomatoes there would be two side of the growing area.There are always slight differences in treatments: (i) the old nutrient product, which is the control temperature, humidity and light within a growing area, so any treatment and (ii) the new nutrient product to be tested. Each differences between the two sets of plants might be due to slight of these treatments (control and new nutrient) would have three differences in their growing environment, rather than an indication sets (replications) each containing six or more plants. This gives a of the treatment results. total of six sets of six plants. Once the data from this is obtained it can be easily analyzed to determine if the new nutrient had a significant effect or not. This is far more accurate than simply dividing six plants into two separate treatment groups as the replications help eliminate some of that natural variation plants are prone to.
n g i f s o t de a new st e l p men tep 3, again m a Ex peri mple in Sng tested be: ex g the exaoduct bei control)u, p would
r nts ts a l Usinutrient p one (thental setp six ix plan nts n e old erime t n th e exp rie ient s ix pla t u n th nts ts ew w nutr rient s a l n p ut 1 – ne six ix plan nts t n Rep p 2 – new n e utri trient s six pla n Re p 3 – l o t u Re ontr ntrol n nutrien c 1 – – co ntrol p e R p2 co Re p 3 – Re
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Side by side comparisons may not show differences, but the ‘hard’ data recorded from the crop might.
Each of the three reps of six plants would then be randomly assigned a position in the growing area.When the plants are measured or assessed, the data from each treatment replication is kept separate so that some statistics can be carried out to determine if differences caused by the new treatment actually exist. Once the trial is up and running it is vital that, apart from the
treatment being applied, all plants in the experiment are treated exactly the same.This means they are given the same amount of light, water, nutrients, pest and disease control (if needed during the trial) and any other growth factors, so as not to compromise the trial.The different treatments and replications need to be grown at the same time and they must be of the same species and cultivar
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(unless different species and cultivars are the actual trial). Some growers choose to run their experiment more than once. This is a good idea if using a greenhouse or outdoor crop as seasons will affect the results of many trials. Running more than one trial over time can also confirm results of a certain treatment, which is worth doing to add weight to a product claim or a new idea being tested.
“Even when we try to be neutral, we tend to be influenced by what we want to see.” Unfortunately many good plant trials have been wasted by not carrying out the correct assessment or measurements. Simply ‘eye-balling’ plants to see if there are any visible differences between treatments often gives rather inaccurate results, particularly if the treatments applied have highly visible labels so the assessor knows which is the control and which plants have been given the new treatment. Even when we try to be neutral, we tend to be influenced by what we want to see. Hoping a new treatment will grow faster can lead to the assessor seeing slight differences in height that are not actually there. Also, many successful treatments often have effects that can’t be seen by looking at the plants. Plants of the same height may have one treatment that is heavier or has a greater dry weight, or better tasting fruit, all of which can’t be measured by just looking at the treatments. Determining what to measure and using analytical data (weights, lengths, leaf area index, chemical composition, nutritional analysis, etc.) gives more accurate results than just having a look-see at the plants.
Natural variations in light, temperature and humidity tend to occur accross most growing environments, so experimental design is important to help prevent bias.
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Testing
and Trialing Using photographic evidence of statistically proven results helps with presentation of experimental write ups.
Step 4: Recording
Record all differences and observations, roots, shoots, leaves, fruits, flowers as well as EC and pH in hydroponic trials.
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Every aspect of an experiment should be recorded: observations, applications, measurements, calculations, conclusions, etc. This serves two purposes—it allows others to follow your method and achieve the same results and it allows the trial to be reviewed in case of an unexpected result. Sometimes unintended biases can occur in a trial and often reviewing records can help the grower work out what went wrong. Taking photographs of any treatment differences or unusual occurrences is also useful for future reference. Part of the experimental design is careful consideration of what variables to measure. There are obvious measurements such as plant weight at harvest or fruit yields per week, but sometimes determining the most meaningful data can be difficult. Plant height is not necessarily an indication of growth rate or productivity. Sometimes shorter, more branched plants produce more fruit than taller, leaner ones and plant fresh weight may not be that meaningful if testing a product that claims to increase fruit flavor. Fruit or vegetable flavor assessment can be a minefield as taste tests need to be run correctly and by many different trained panelists to get a true indication of flavor improvement. There are also analytical tests such as brix for sweetness, which can be easily carried out by growers running small trials. Often in horticultural trials, percentage of dry plant matter is used as a better indication of increased photosynthesis and biomass production. With hydroponic experiments it is always a good idea to keep track of EC, pH and water usage between different treatments. When trialing pest and disease control products other factors may be more relevant such as the number of live or dead insects after spray application, size of disease lesions, spray damage occurrence as well as overall yields and plant performance.
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Testing
and Trialing
Step 5: What to do with the data Once the data has been collected from a trial—plant weight, height, leaf area, yield or any other ‘hard’ data—the first step to analyzing the results is to find the mean or average from each treatment set. Just eye-balling a set of measurements and trying to decide which is highest, or totaling them, is not going to give an accurate answer. The mean value per treatment is required. The mean is calculated by adding up all the numbers for each treatment and dividing it by the number of plants in that treatment. Technically, with a true scientific trial, we would not just stop at working out the mean of each treatment. While it gives us a rough indication of differences that might be significant, it is the variance of the data around the mean that gives the final answer as to whether a treatment had a relevant effect or not. It is not difficult to work out the variance and standard error of a set of data and is usually well covered in basic math courses. For those of us for whom school was quite a long time ago and who need a reminder the following links and references detail the process. A well thought out and run trial with correctly analyzed data can tell us a great deal about the effects of a new treatment and give sufficient credibility to make claims about a new idea, system, product or cultivar. However, plants are part of a biological
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system naturally prone to individual differences and biases, so understanding the experimental method and why it is used is a great tool for anyone wanting to carry out evaluations. MY
Information on handling trial data and statistical analysis •
The Really Easy Statistics Site www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research/groups/jdeacon/statistics/ tress1.html
•
Statistical Tests for Significance www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research/groups/jdeacon/statistics/ tress4.html
•
Statistics in Plant Physiology http://plantphys.info/plant_physiology/labpdf/statistics.pdf
•
“Practical Statistics and Experimental Design for Plant and Crop Science” by Alan G. Clewer
•
“Statistics For the Terrified” (4th Edition) by Gerald Kranzler, Janet Moursund and John H. Kranzler
AVANT-GARDENING
by Michael Bloch
Luffa Sponges A luffa sponge is multifunctional, serving many purposes around the house and in a variety of industries. Luffa sponges are great exfoliation tools, often found in the bathroom. They also work great for cleaning in the kitchen. In some places, luffa sponges are used to make mats, slippers and insoles. A project in Paraguay found a way to mix luffa with plastic waste to construct inexpensive panels for walls and roofing for building houses. Surprisingly, luffa sponges can also be eaten. Simply harvest the fruit before it reaches maturity and cook it like a zucchini. Growing Luffa This environmentally-friendly, vegan-based product can be grown at home. Luffa seeds can be purchased online and possibly at nurseries or indoor/outdoor gardening shop. A luffa sponge is an annual plant, not a plastic product or sea sponge as is the common belief, closely related to the cucumber. It produces very long vines and should be trellised in order to keep the heavy fruits off the ground. They do best in 106
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tropical and sub-tropical areas, but can be started inside to avoid frosts. Depending on the moisture where you live, they will require some watering. Luffa sponges are best in full sun and take six months to mature. You will know the plant is mature when the vine dies. Luffa Preparation The process of growing, harvesting and preparing luffa is quite simple. The following luffa harvesting guide is from GroovyGreen.com: • • • • •
Pick the fruit just after the first frost kills the vine. Peel off the outer skin. Milk the sponge by squeezing it repeatedly from the middle towards the ends to remove the fleshy substance inside. Plenty of seeds will leak out. Set aside the best seeds for next year. Discolored sponges should be soaked for five minutes in warm water. Add a little bleach if not using the luffa as a food crop.
Another great source of information on growing, harvesting and preparing luffa is www.luffa.info. Luffa seeds can be kept for years if refrigerated or frozen. Luffa Care Tips The white luffa available commercially has been bleached. While you can do this yourself with a weak solution of ordinary bleach, it’s really not necessary and will shorten the life of the sponge. If allowed to dry between uses a luffa will usually last a couple of months. Grow and prepare enough of your own and you’ll have plenty for the year. With a little creativity, you may be able to start up a small luffa business. MY
Photo by David Shankbone
Above: Egyptian luffa with nearly mature fruit. Below: The ripe, dried fruit is the source of the loofah or plant sponge.
About the Author: Michael Bloch is the owner and editor of GreenLivingTips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy. The site offers a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment-related news to help consumers and businesses reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact.
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A Primer on Deep Water Culture by Susan Slobac
Deep water culture (DWC) is a type of hydroponic gardening in which the roots of a plant are suspended in a solution of oxygenated water and various nutrients.
Deep Water Culture (DWC) is a type of hydroponic gardening in which the roots of a plant are suspended in a solution of oxygenated water and various nutrients. Traditionally, DWC has been practiced using plastic buckets. The plant itself is suspended in what is known as a net pot. The main feature of deep water culture is this net pot—a type of pot resembling an open wire basket is suspended from the bucket lid in such a manner that the roots are suspended in the bucket containing the water and nutrient solution. Within the hydroponic garden, the water is oxygenated with an air pump and an aquarium airstone such as are used in fish tanks.
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Once the hydroponic garden reaches the flowering stage, the level of the nutrient solution is reduced, gradually exposing the roots to the open air where they can absorb greater amounts of oxygen. The massive ingestion of oxygen and nutrients leads to maximum growth throughout the plant’s lifecycle. A variation on DWC is recirculation deep water culture (RDWC). An RDWC system employs a reservoir, which in turn provides water to several buckets. If these buckets are not connected in some way, it will be necessary to test each one for proper pH levels (acidity vs. alkalinity) and conductivity factor (CF).
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A Primer
on
Deep Water Culture
In order to avoid the need for testing of each individual bucket, some RDWC systems dispense with the airstones and instead connect the buckets. The water is recirculated with spray nozzles, resulting in better aeration and oxygenation. By constantly recirculating the water in this fashion, nutrients are mixed more effectively and pH levels are stabilized throughout the system. Building a DWC system is neither particularly difficult nor expensive, and can be done for under $100. To start, you will need a five gallon bucket, a fish tank air pump, an aquarium airstone for breaking up the bubbles, a six inch hydroponic growing net or net pot, duct tape and a hydroponic growth medium (organic composted bark is best).
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The first step is to cut a hole in the bucket lid that is the same diameter as the net pot. The net pot should fit snugly when the lip rests on the edge of the pot.You’ll also need to cut a small hole in the side of the bucket near the top in order to accommodate the airline. This should be run down to the bottom of the bucket and into the airstone. The bucket should then be wrapped in about five layers of duct tape in order to prevent any light from reaching the reservoir (which would lead to the growth of algae). The net pot is then filled with the growth medium and the seedling of the plant you are attempting to grow. Fill the bucket with clean water, put the lid in place, insert the net pot, turn on the pump and your new system is in operation.
Exposing roots to the open air results in a massive ingestion of oxygen and nutrients. The result is maximum growth.
PREMIUM BIO-HARVESTS Way y s a E e Th
If you are looking to grow premium quality harvests, and want to make your growing experience as easy trouble-free as possible, please read on.
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by Erik Biksa
This growing method strongly emphasizes mixing a highly potent, bioactive, coco-based growing medium. The growing medium contains organic amendments that provide a steady supply of base nutrients and help stimulate beneficial life in the root zone for healthier plants. The growing medium is supplemented weekly with freshly brewed aerobic teas. The teas deliver soluble organic fertilizers to feed the plants, as well as other substances that are beneficial in the root zone such as enzymes, amino acids, vitamins and beneficial micro-organisms. From there, all the crop needs is pure water, or mild nutrients with subsequent watering. This method is capable of delivering fairly high yields and high quality crops consistently. The best thing about this method is that if you follow the steps and use the materials and methods outlined here, you will have a near foolproof method of harvesting some very high quality plants, provided you are starting with good plant genetics. Note that plant gains in vegetative growth tend to be slower in soil/soilless versus hydroponics, however, the growth is often healthier and with denser node spacing in soil/soilless grown plants.
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Premium Bio-Harvests: The Easy Way Getting Started First off, makes sure that each plant has lots of root space, as a lot of the nutrients the plants will be taking up are going to be supplied by the growing medium. “Top hat” style five gallon containers are the minimum size recommended and allow for up to nine plants to be spaced together under one 1,000 watt HID light.You will want to line the bottom of your containers with a one to two inch depth of grow rocks or coconut drain matting, as coco tends to stay wet at the bottom of containers relative to how quickly it can dry out at the top. Next, you can begin to prepare your coco coir for the mix. A lot of growers find the compressed blocks very convenient to transport and store before use. Some brands of coco coir are definitely better than others. Look for material that is well composted and free of salts. Be cautious, because less expensive coco coir sometimes contains a lot of sodium that can harm your plants. To be on the safe side, some growers rinse new coco with copious amounts of fresh water before using it as part of their soil/soilless mix. Preparing the Medium You will need a durable container that is easy to clean for creating and mixing your biological grow medium in. Large plastic
If you are mixing large batches, renting a cement mixer is a quick and easy way of getting the job done.
tote bins, bathtubs, children’s swimming pools and other vessels that are nice and wide or long relative to their height are easy to work with. Taller and narrow containers such as garbage cans don’t work as well for mixing, because the materials tend to compress on the bottom of the container, and do not get mixed evenly throughout the growing medium. For creating larger batches, you can rent a cement mixer, ensuring that it is free of materials that might get into your growing medium and harm plants.
Biological Grow Medium Recipe
The following mix is just a guideline. You can experiment to create the perfect mix for you and the strains of plants that you like to grow. • 50 per cent washed coco coir; a mixture of finer coir and coarser chunks is recommended • 30 per cent perlite or pumice • 20 per cent high quality earth worm castings (black, earthy smelling) • one quart of dried kelp meal per 22 gallons of growing mix • two cups per 22 gallons of growing mix high phosphorous bat or seabird guano (for flowering plants)* • two cups per 22 gallons of growing mix high nitrogen bat or seabird guano (for vegetative plants)* *Use either or ½ of each as using both at full strength could create problems.
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Wear a respirator or thoroughly wet-down materials before you start blending and mixing the materials together, because inhaling dust from some of these ingredients can be harmful. Make sure to mix all of the ingredients evenly throughout your growing mix.You don’t want to create any hot spots of fertility in one part of the growing mix over the other; as well, you want to ensure that the growing mix will drain evenly through even distribution of the perlite or pumice through the entire mix. Tea Time Before you transplant your crop into the mix, you are going to want to charge your soil/soilless mix with the aerobic tea. Basically, the aerobic tea is a batch of nutrients with lots of biological ingredients that is aerated for 24 to 36 hours before it is applied to the crop. This method creates a healthy, living, nutrient rich “soup” that when applied to the growing medium, supercharges the root zone with everything plants love. The application of the aerobic tea, teamed with microbes, will also activate biological nutrient cycling in the growing medium. The solids that remain from the nutrient soup, although depleted of some of their nutrients, are excellent to mix into to your soil/soilless mix before it is used, because they will help to introduce beneficial life and biosubstances that will get your growing medium working in your favor. The solids are so active that you can feel heat being emitted from the tea residues. This will bring life and initiate the cycling of your organic amendments such as worm castings, kelps and guanos. How much tea you need to brew depends on how many containers you need to water. Don’t make too much, because the tea should not be kept or stored, and should be used within 24 to 36 hours after initiating the brewing process. The following will give you a basic method for brewing a five gallon batch of highly aerobic tea for the vegetative growth phase: 1. Fill a five gallon opaque pail with lid almost to the top with fresh water. DO NOT USE CHLORINATED WATER for this process. Sometimes aerating the water overnight is enough to dissipate chlorine levels found in some municipal water supplies. 2. Add about two cups of dark rich earthworm castings. The castings should have a fine texture and smell earthy. 3. Add about ½ cup of finely ground, high quality dried kelp meal. 4. Give the mixture a quick stir. 5. Add about 20 teaspoons of a concentrated digestive enzyme plant supplement (the more types of enzymes the product contains the better). 6. Add about 10 teaspoons or full strength as per label of a 100 per cent organic B-vitamin supplement intended for plants.
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Premium Bio-Harvests: The Easy Way 7. Add full strength as per the label humic acid extract; correct the pH with vinegar after adding if necessary to prevent pH levels from rising above 7.0. 8. Add one cup of a chitinase and salicylic acid based plant immune system activator. 9. Add about five teaspoons of a concentrated liquid carbohydrate plant supplement. 10. Add ½ to full strength powdered beneficial bacterial inoculant. 11. Add ½ to full strength powdered beneficial fungal inoculant. 12. Add ½ to full strength 100 per cent organic vegetative growth base nutrient concentrate.
A compressed block of coco coir can be very convenient to tranport and store before using.
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After adding all of the ingredients, give the solution a gentle stir with a clean instrument. Check that the final pH is not greater than 7.0; adjust with vinegar if necessary to lower the pH. Run an airline through your bucket lid and connect to two airstones. One airstone should be placed at the bottom of the bucket, while the other should be suspended about half way in the depth of the solution. Drop a fist-sized piece of sea sponge in the bucket, as this helps to provide an excellent mechanical substrate for the proliferation of beneficial microbes.
Connect the airline to your air pump, and aerate the solution continuously for 24 to 36 hours. Ensure that the temperature of the tea remains stable, between 68째F to 72째F through the entire brewing process. The end result is a nutrient rich tea that is swimming with beneficial microbes. The tea should smell pleasant; if it smells rotten something has gone wrong and you should brew a fresh batch. However, as long as you aerate the solution and keep the temperature stable, you should not have any problems. Adjust the pH if necessary to below 7.0 with vinegar and apply to plants. A pH of about 5.8 is best for most plants in the vegetative growth phase. This tea should be added on a weekly basis, and growers are advised to follow their regular feed, feed, water cycles with their preferred nutrients through the growing cycle. Organic nutrients will work better with the aerobic teas and biosoil. For the first week after transplanting into the new medium, plants will usually do great with just pH-adjusted water along with some digestive enzymes. Additions of humates in the nutrient solution seem to help lessen incidences of over-feeding. Finishing Up Your plants will show you lots of thanks for their home-brewed meal by producing extremely healthy growth, large root systems and the best tasting fruits and best looking flowers imaginable. Plants grown with this method tend to be extremely healthy and trouble free, showing a higher degree of resistance to pests and diseases. Make sure you have a charcoal filter installed in your exhaust or as a scrubber, because your plants will smell more fragrant than ever thanks to all of the biological plant building blocks you have supplied. MY
Learn how to create your own, fresh from scratch, aerobic tea at www.maximumyield.com
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GREEN THUMB GARDENING
Be Good to
Bees Why Pollinators Need a Home in Your Garden
M
ost people don’t realize that the bees, butterflies, moths and other insects zooming about in our gardens are some of the most important creatures on the planet. In their search for a meal of nectar and pollen, they play a critical role in helping plants set fruit and reproduce. It’s hard to believe, but an incredible 91 per cent of the estimated 240,000 flowering plant species worldwide require the help of these pollinators to survive. If there are no insects to pollinate the flower, there will be no fruit or vegetables and no seed production for the next generation.
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Despite the important service pollinators provide, they have been largely ignored and are now threatened by habitat loss, pesticide use and disease. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service lists 50 pollinator species, including some bats and birds, as threatened or endangered. Wild honeybee populations have dropped 25 per cent since 1990. A continuing decline in pollinator activity puts most ornamental plants, as well as much of our food supply into jeopardy. Here are four easy ways you can help right in your own backyard:
1
Provide an abundant source of food. Include lots of nectar and pollen rich plants in your garden, such as old-fashioned flowers and wildflowers. A succession of blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs will ensure nectar and pollen are available throughout the growing season. Remember to also include plants that butterfly larvae feed on, such as dill, fennel and milkweed.
2
3
Go organic. Many pesticides, even organic ones, are toxic to bees and other beneficial organisms. In the short term, these pesticides may provide a quick knock down to the attackers. In the long run, you expose yourself, family, pets, wildlife and pollinators to toxic chemicals, and risk disrupting the natural ecosystem. If you do apply a pesticide, make sure you use it carefully and selectively. Never spray when blossoms are open or when bees or other pollinators are present. Provide shelter. Butterflies, bees and other pollinators need shelter to hide from predators, eat out of the elements and rear their young. Make your yard more pollinator-friendly by letting a section of lawn grow wild for ground nesting bees. Allow a pile of grass cuttings or a log to decompose in a sunny place, or leave a dead tree standing to crate nooks of butterflies and solitary bees. Artificial nesting boxes also offer a safe place for solitary bees, such as the orchard bee, to lay their eggs.
4
Provide water. A water garden, birdbath or catch basin for rain will guarantee that pollinators can always find the water they need to survive. Butterflies are also attracted to muddy puddles for salt sand nutrient, as well as water. MY
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OCEAN DEEP Excerpts from “Fertility From the Ocean Deep - Natures Perfect Nutrient Blend for the Farm” by Charles Walters
The Missing Link to Health Early in the first decade of the last century, the New Jersey laboratory of George H. Earp-Thomas discovered the near total absence of cobalt in American soils. No art of agronomy seemed capable of restoring this essential nutrient. This shortage soon had laboratories off and running, measuring the effect of trace nutrients on enzyme production. Not one could be produced in the body without mineral assistance. Maynard Murray once confided to an associate that the rate of enzyme discovery is slowed by the pace of trace mineral evaluation, and some 400 years will be required to get the full picture if the present rate of discovery is not hastened. All enzymes require trace mineral keys. Dr. Jerry Orlasch has called them “the spark plugs of the body.” It was EarpThomas who cemented into place the proposition that a body with high mineral content could remain disease-free. With this mineral assistance, the body could maintain a fluid electrolyte solution in its cells, osmotic equilibrium or pressure. His observation seemed to confirm Antoine Béchamp’s belief that if the terrain was not suitable for disease, disease couldn’t happen. The syllogism concluded its premises. Fluid and water into and out of cells governed blood pressure, kidney function, nerve process and hydration. By the middle of the 20th century, the trace minerals had almost become a discipline, but the studies seemed to deal with them one at a time. Andre Voisin’s “Soil, Grass and Cancer” dealt largely with copper and zinc. Disease conditions started being tagged accordingly to an average or a 122
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shortage of this or that nutrient, macro or trace. New paradigms were installed in the literature. Trace minerals were said to be under homeostatic control. That is, they obeyed a law of homeostasis. They were essential. Essential did not mean more was better. Above the curve, they could be toxic, even lethal. First a dozen elements became characterized as essential. As new data was assembled and a way was found to market these essentials, the number grew. Each decade a new physiological role for still another trace nutrient is identified. Unless the pace of discovery is picked up, the full Mendeleev table will not be understood for several centuries. Maynard Murray pondered these facts in his talk before an Acres U.S.A. conference in 1976. Human beings, he said, can use the essential elements only in shielded form. If the job of complexing them isn’t handled by plants, then it is up to bacteria in the gut to come to the rescue. Obviously, this is impossible if there is a great overload of toxicity. The mystery of salt comes to mind whenever ocean spray delivers the water’s taste to human beings. The Chinese once executed criminals by forcing them to consume several tablespoons of salt.Yet the same salt is used at mealtime around the world by toddlers and grownups alike. Physicians recognize this and prescribe salt-free diets for pregnant women and men with heart problems.Yet these diets never omit the claim that celery stalk has as much sodium chloride in it as a typical shake of salt over a plate of peas of beets. There is a reason why the sodium chloride in celery is not toxic. Only sodium chloride in the inorganic state produces toxic effects. Withal, sodium remains pretty much a mystery, yet it is one Maynard Murray listed as hypothetically solved. The metes and bounds of that solution anoint every step along his career’s way. We are never done with mysteries when it comes to nature. Aluminum is a good “for instance.” It seems to play an important role in some few conditions and turns up permanently in green leaves, thus the ongoing speculation that there may be an association between aluminum and chlorophyll.
“Celery stalk has as much sodium chloride in it as a typical shake of salt over a plate of peas or beets.”
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Ocean Deep
From watching fisherman unload and clean their catch, Dr. Murray theorized that sodium present in the fish was directly related to healthy, disease-free organs.
Whether sodium could be substituted for potassium was investigated as early as World War II, and the topic received maximum attention from Maynard Murray as he watched fisherman unload their catch. Conversations with men who had spent a lifetime invading a veritable Serengeti in the water led Murray to perform necropsy examinations on various fish. He couldn’t recall seeing
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such pristine livers, spleens, organs of every type. “Are there any tumors?” he asked the friendly fisherman. “Not that we’ve ever seen,” was the usual answer. Sodium a substitute for potassium? The very idea suddenly elevated a perceived ocean contaminant to nutrient status. Could sodium take on the task of potassium in assimilation? It could! Maynard Murray’s rest on the wharf
turned into an intellectual feast. In crop production, such a substitution would allow more of the potassium to function in the seed. This would mean that sodium needs to have potassium available to it, and that it tends to preserve soil calcium, magnesium and potassium. It could then assist in plant nutrition when soil potassium was not sufficient for the requirements of the crop.
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Ocean Deep
Dr. Maynard Murray, speaking near the end of this career: “There can be no life without a transfer of electrical energy. Each cell is a little battery. It is capable of and does in fact put out a current. If it is unable to put out a current, the cell is dead and can never return to living tissue. Anything living alters its environment for its benefit in order that it may live and reproduce. Life is contained in a cell. It is surrounded by a definite volume. Cells vary in size. The largest cell on earth is an ostrich egg. The smallest cell is a bacterium. In warmblooded animals, the reproductive cells are both the largest and the smallest. The sperm cell is the smallest, and the egg cell is the largest. The cells are able to carry on the process of life. They need only food from the outside, they can manufacture many of their requirements, they can break down complex compounds and synthesize their own body tissues. A virus cannot do this. It has to live within the cell as a parasite. Living tissue has to get its food by either concentrating or diluting its environment in order to make that environment part of its tissue. All of life is parasitic. One living thing lives on another. The exception is plant life, which contains chlorophyll. Using colored dyes, plants can synthesize living tissue out of inorganic materials. The pigment in the retina of the human eye enables the human animals, with the aid of light, to synthesize food, proteins, etc., out of simple inorganic components.”
“Each cell is a little battery...If it is unable to put out a current, the cell is dead and can never return to living tissue.” Rivers were full of fish with tumors not unlike those Murray saw among hospital patients. Even though these rivers drained toxic soils and spilled their contents into the ocean, the manmade molecules hadn’t afflicted ocean life with tumors, at least not in the early 1950s. In 1949, the U.S. government declared that the nutrient in least supply limited plant growth. In a manner of speaking, there isn’t such a thing as a major or minor nutrient. All are critical in their assigned roles. Maynard Murray opened up still more fish. He knew the government had set up poison control centers nationwide. This step was made mandatory as the two false premises, imbalanced salt fertilizers and toxic rescue chemistry, swept those republics of learning of which great agriculture thinker Sir Albert Howard wrote. It was an amateur agriculture coming on, one that failed to realize that a true anatomy of weed, insect, bacteria, virus and fungal control is seated in fertility management, including trace mineral management. If the Friends of the Land knew that plants in Iowa with suitable loads of exchangeable nutrients could protect themselves, it was knowledgeable everywhere. To disturb the soil’s
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Ocean Deep microflora—algae, fungi, protozoa—was to invite degenerative diseases, even if the farm product looked beautiful. If science has failed to synthesize the chemicals and biological energies of enzymes, it has succeeded in inserting pollution into soils, plants, animals and human beings. Cellular damage due to malnutrition or the invasion of toxicity can cost a farmer all or part of his crop. The same damage in human beings can cost a nation its
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heritage and its future. Damage to the sperm or ova in a human being can cause malformation or mental retardation in future generations. It can also contribute to degenerative metabolic disease. In every cell—plant, animal or human— there are chromosomes, which carry almost all of the information needed to direct cell’s growth, division and production of chemical such as proteins. These chromosomes are composed of information-bearing genes.
Farm chemicals are radiomimetic, meaning they ape the character of radiation. Radiation itself can damage the chromosomes either by altering the character of a single gene so that the gene conveys improper information, called “point mutation,” or by actually breaking the chromosome, called “deletion.” The syllogistic conclusion became the focal point of Maynard Murray’s report and had been the focal point of his life’s work. “The green plants,” he said, “will not use organic materials.” Organic farmers, he said, were doing the right thing, but they were using the wrong name. The plant uses inorganic materials and makes them organic. The plant uses inorganic materials and makes them organic, Plants take inorganic nutrients, animals do not; they need organic food. It was a thesis he had spent nearly 30 years refining while on the hunt for trace nutrients, the missing link MY to health.
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YOU TELL US
Maximum Yield discusses mycorrhizal fungi, balanced plant nutrition and the Xtreme Gardening product line with John Anderson, director of sales and production for Reforestation Technologies International (RTI).
Maximum Yield (MY): What is RTI’s role in regenerating forests? John Anderson: RTI was formed by my parents in 1993 to provide highly effective and environmentally safe products for new forest establishment, habitat restoration and post forest fire treatments. Since that time, a quarter of a billion forestry seedlings and thousands of acres of disturbed landscape have been successfully regenerated with our products and technologies.
MY: How did you get involved with the Xtreme Gardening product line? John: In 2006, a giant pumpkin grower from Rhode Island contacted my father and asked him whether MYKOS (our mycorrhizal inoculants) could help him grow big. My father thought it would help and it did. He broke the World Record at 1,502 pounds and received a Guinness World Record certificate. Since then every World Record giant pumpkin, including the 2009 winner, a 1,725 pound fruit grown in Ohio, has been inoculated with MYKOS. In the last year, 12 state champions, a new Canadian giant pumpkin record, a new World Record for giant gourds and a tomato weighing over seven pounds have all been treated with MYKOS. We thought if there was this type of demand for good biological treatments among pumpkin growers, there were also people out there who may just want to grow their personal best tomato, melon patch, row of corn, hot peppers or the like. Our first year of sales suggest that we may have been right and now we are getting e-mails and photos from growers showing how impressive their results are.
MY: How is MYKOS cultured? John: That is proprietary. People have tried to copy us without success. What I can tell you is that it is completely organic.
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John Anderson, director of sales and production.
One key to its success is that every batch of culture produced is thoroughly tested and if it doesn’t meet our very strict standards, it is rejected. Customers only get what is stated on our MYKOS label, “Pure, Fresh & Alive” mycorrhizae.
MY: What are the benefits of mycorrhizal fungi? John: Healthy soil biology is a key component to plant health that for too long has been fertilized with chemicals. Because these materials are soluble and salt based, they kill off all the beneficial microbes that can release nutrients to plants, protect roots from pathogens and improve crop quality. A cup of soil may contain billions of these beneficial microbes and will also contain miles of hyphae, the filament-like component of mycorrhizal fungi that connects all these beneficial microbes to the plant. Hyphae transports carbohydrates from the plant out to the bacteria and fungi that are releasing plant nutrients such as phosphorus, calcium, zinc, etc (11 of the 14 necessary nutrients required for plant health, no chlorine, molybdenum or boron please). Without mycorrhizae, the whole microbial community would be like a country without roads. Mycorrhizal fungi also have a supply side relationship with their host plants, which means the plant is in control of what
Current Half Moon Bay champion Don Young with his 1,685 pound pumpkin grown with RTI Mykos. Current World Record pumpkin at 1,725 pounds inoculated with Mykos. Mykos hyphae.
it chooses for nutrition and at what ratios. This is important to plant health and crop quality because it allows plants to generate higher levels of secondary metabolites, which are the chemical compounds that improve nutrient and enzyme content. Mycorrhizal tomatoes produce higher levels of lycopenes for example. Antioxidants, the volatile essential oils that act as defense compounds and many more natural chemicals that lead to improved crop quality, are elevated when plants have a strong mycorrhizal relationship.
MY: What are Feeder Paks and how do they provide balanced nutrition to plants? John: That is our original technology dating back to the early 90s. They are 10 gram biodegradable “teabags” that are placed next to a plant or seedling during translplant. Feeder Paks promote very aggressive root growth and it is this expanded root system that is able to acquire a nutritional balance from the soil or media. Unlike most fertilizer products that make plants dependent upon additional applications, Feeder Paks encourage root systems that extend naturally. That is why there are 225 million trees around the world treated with Feeder Paks.
MY: What are the products in the Xtreme Gardening line and how are they used in indoor gardening? John: Our products are clearly designed for use in an organic system, whether it is inside or outside. The combination of organic, biological and metabolic treatments means growth and crop quality can be maximized without the use of messy chemicals. MYKOS is a pure mycorrhizal inoculant that can rapidly develop hyphae. This greater root surface area means more access to nutrients and moisture. It works well—four world record giant pumpkins is our proof.
AZOS is a free-living, nitrogen-fixing bacterium that takes atmospheric nitrogen as N2 and converts it to an organic form of nitrogen that is available to plants. It is present in undisturbed ecosystems throughout the world but this particular strain is very adaptive to crop production. It can replace 70 to 100 per cent of your chemical nitrogen applications. CAL-CARb is a naturally mined form of calcium carbonate. This particular source is relatively unstable when it is applied as a foliar spray and rapidly breaks down into calcium oxide and carbon dioxide. The elevated CO2 is pulled up through the leaves stomata and into the foliage along with the calcium. The calcium helps with cellular structure of the leaves and the elevated CO2 has a metabolic affect on photosynthesis. I guess you could call it a Red Bull for your plants.
MY: How is RTI working towards a greener, cleaner planet? John: I think our 17 year track record speaks for itself. There are 225 million forestry seedlings that are actively removing carbon from the atmosphere over a geographical range of Iceland and northern Canada to Malaysia and New Zealand. There are also several thousand acres of habitat successfully restored from strip mines in Wyoming to degraded ecosystems in the Sonora Desert. RTI products have even been used to rescue a native tall grass prairie ecosystem on a nuclear bomb facility closure in Ohio. RTI is committed to developing only products and technologies that work within the natural parameters of crop management. It is an exciting time to see how we really can make a difference in reducing environmental damage and improving plant and food quality. We look forward to dialogue with Maximum Yield readers; it is the best way for us to understand your needs and what new products we can offer that provide the best results for you as growers and for the environment. MY RTI’s environmental initiatives are vast and include energy conservation; carbon dioxide removal and moisture management; and safer nutrients. To review these environmental initiatives in detail, visit maximumyield.com
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Circadian Rhythm The Plant/Light Connection
by Luis Bartolo
S
Summer, the warmest of the four seasons and marked by the longest days and the shortest nights, is recognized as the period when plant growth really takes off. In temperate climates it’s defined by changes in temperature and makes its appearance between the mild transitional spring and the first killing frost of autumn, at which time annual plants die and biennials and perennials cease active growth and become dormant for the cold winter months. In tropical climates where seasonal temperature changes are less drastic, the available moisture often determines the periods of plant growth. In the rainy season growth is luxuriant and in the dry season many plants become dormant. In the desert, growth is almost wholly dependent on moisture. But why is that? How do plants recognize the changing seasons? Obviously except for those organisms that live deep in a cave or at the bottom of the ocean, day follows the night, and the length of the day changes predictably throughout the year. These changes in photoperiod provide the most accurate signal for predicting upcoming seasonal conditions. The photoperiod is the plant's reaction to dark and is controlled by a photoreceptor protein in the leaves. This shifts between two forms, phytochrome and cryptochrome, based on whether it receives more red or far red light, and will control several different plant reactions including seed germination, stem elongation, dormancy and blooming in light sensitive plants. 132
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Circadian Rhythm: The Plant/Light Connection In combination with the circadian clock, commonly known as the plants’ biological clock, plants sense seasonal changes in night length, which they take as signals to flower. Therefore, daylight and flowering are directly connected. Photoperiodism in plants includes the growth of stems or roots during certain seasons, or the loss of leaves in autumn. Photoperiodic flowering plants are classified as long day plants, short day plants or day neutral plants, though the regulatory mechanism is actually governed by hours of darkness measuring the interval between the onset of darkness and the beginning of the following session of light. Photoperiod manipulation is a classic technique among growers who wish to control the flowering of bedding plants and other annuals and is also as a method of energy conservation, in most cases, to shorten crop time.
“Light intensity influences the manufacturing of plant food, stem length, leaf color and flowering.”
Light quality Light quality refers to the color or wavelength reaching the plant's surface. A prism can divide sunlight into respective colors of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet. Red light is very important to plant production. Phytochrome
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pigments absorb the red and far red portions of the light spectrum and regulate seed germination, root development, tuber and bulb formation, dormancy, flowering and fruit production. Blue light stimulates chlorophyll production more than any other color, encouraging thick leaves, strong stems and compact vegetative growth. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light and transmits the energy to a pigment—based on electron transport chain. The energy is ultimately used to produce
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Short day plants flower in response to long periods of darkness. Examples include poinsettias, Christmas cactus, chrysanthemums and single-crop strawberries.
Long day plants flower in response to short periods of darkness. Examples include onions and spinach.
Day neutral plants flower without regard to the length of darkness, but typically flower earlier and more profusely under long daylight regimes. Day neutral strawberries provide summer long harvesting (except during extreme heat).
high-energy chemical bonds that can be used for a range of biochemical transformations, including fixation of carbon dioxide into sugars. Carotenoids, the yellow-orange pigments in plants, absorb blue light and control leaf drop and fruit ripening. Riboflavin (vitamin B2) absorbs violet light and
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influences phototropism, the movement of plant foliage in response to light. Green light is not used or absorbed, which is why most foliage looks green in sunlight. However, plants are frequently seen with foliage of a variety of other colors from shades of red, brown, purple through to black. These colors are caused
by other pigments in response to environmental stress as a mechanism for filtering intense sunlight or as the endpoint of selective breeding of desirable cultivars. These pigments are incidental to photosynthesis, but may well only be produced in plants grown in the strongest light especially with a high blue and ultraviolet content Light intensity The more light a plant receives, to a degree, the higher the photosynthetic rate will be. However, leaves of plants growing in low light will scorch if moved to a brighter location. Over time, as the wax content on a leaf increases, it will become more light tolerant. Light intensity influences the manufacturing of plant food, stem length, leaf color and flowering. Plants grown in low light tend to be spindly with light green leaves. A similar plant grown in very bright light tends to be shorter, with better branches and larger, dark green leaves. Summer is a very powerful tool for all life forms on earth. There is still a lot to be learned about light but much can be gleamed from the beauty of MY nature’s light, the sun.
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Supply & Demand
Achieving a Balance with Nature by Evan Folds The horticulture industry has been hit with a wicked curveball—Genetically Modified Organisms (GMO). GMOs as they relate to our industry refer to designer crops that may be resistant to pests, disease and drought, and tolerant of cold and herbicides. They may also be disastrous to our health and the health of our environment and are not proven to increase yields. Advanced technology and modern techniques like those used in hydroponics show increased yields of 35 to 40 per cent without the need for a genetically engineered helping hand. It’s a wonder ag-heavyweight Monsanto—leading producer of genetically engineered seeds—didn’t opt for hydroponics.
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Supply and Demand: Achieving a Balance with Nature Genetically Modified Organisms are just one product of a society that has lost its way. This lack of sustainability will likely spark a global change like the world has never seen, a repercussion if you will, following our current flawed operations. Many major facets of our society are currently unsustainable—the economy, energy supply, health care, population growth and the big one, horticulture—and the average person is blissfully unaware. The Viktor Schaubergers and Rudolph Steiners of the world saw it coming a century ago, and we are only now waking up to the reality of our misguided ways. Identifying the catastrophe we have created is the easy part; what’s hard is finding a solution, which should not necessarily involve taking action, a path we are quick to follow. The solution must involve altering our mindset. We must alter our thoughts and beliefs about the world to coincide with our modern needs. Agriculture needs to be the launching point. In Michael Pollan’s “Farmer in Chief,” written just prior to the last presidential election, he describes how the fundamental success of our society is rooted in how we grow food. He says our
“We need to wean the American food system off its heavy 20th-century diet of fossil fuel and put it back on a diet of contemporary sunshine.” —Michael Pollan food system has been hijacked to represent interests other than the most fundamental, nourishing people. His core idea is: “We need to wean the American food system off its heavy 20th-century diet of fossil fuel and put it back on a diet of contemporary sunshine.” Did you know that 19 per cent of the fossil fuels used in the US are consumed by our food system? That is more than any other sector in our economy with the exception of vehicles. In addition, livestock production is responsible for 21 per cent of greenhouse emissions globally; that’s more than all forms of transportation combined. We can make a larger dent in our carbon footprint by making food production more sensible than we ever can buying a hybrid car, yet all we get is Al Gore telling us to change light bulbs. We are groomed to consume, not produce. Imagine how our world would change if our leaders encouraged us to start a garden instead? “It is no small thing for an American to be able to go into a fast-food restaurant and buy a double cheeseburger, fries and a large Coke for a price equal to less than an hour of labor at the minimum wage,” Mr. Pollan states. In the 1970s there was a conscious decision to enact government food policies that
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Supply and Demand: Achieving a Balance with Nature
Meat production is so inefficient, it takes an entire acre of land to produce only 48 pounds of beef. In contrast, 60,000 pounds of pineapple can be grown on one acre of land. undermine conscious healthy food options by subsidizing the commodities that our supermarket foods are derived from—corn, soy, wheat, rice and meat. These products are easier to industrialize than tomatoes or watermelons, which tend to spoil unless processed. The result of this is food that cannot be taken at face value. For instance, if meat production was not subsidized, California beef would cost $35 per pound. Most subsidies are geared towards alleviating the costs of supporting our meat eating habits. Animals raised for meat eat
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95 per cent of the oats, 90 per cent of the soy, 80 per cent of the corn and 70 per cent of the grain crops grown annually in the US. Over 800 million people could be fed just off the grain used to feed livestock each year alone. Further, it takes an entire acre of land to produce only 48 pounds of beef. In contrast, 60,000 pounds of pineapple can be grown on one acre of land. Crops grown for animals that we eat require half of our water and 80 per cent of US farmland annually. Meat production is so inefficient that one pound of beef requires the use of 2,640 gallons of fresh water (USDA). The average American eats 273 pounds of meat every year. If every American simply abstained from eating meat for 14 days each year, over 670 million acres of land would be available for food cultivation saving over 611 billion gallons of water (UN). That’s enough water to supply an American citizen for over 11,000 years (150 gallons per day). For a Haitian citizen, 611 billion gallons of water would last for 253,632,212 years at 6.6 gallons per day. We do not lack resources to grow food, nor do we lack space. We have simply subsidized and marketed ourselves into an arena of inefficient land use with diets that use resources in an unsustainable way that benefit industry at the expense of the individual. Global agribusiness Monsanto is responsible for bovine growth hormones and the herbicide RoundUp, deemed toxic by scientific studies. They are probably most loathed for their investment in biotechnology and their development of genetically modified seeds that allow the use of the very poisons that have invented. COO Hugh Grant explains Monsanto’s business development from chemical production to biotech: “We believe that the world needs about 35 to 40 per cent more food produced on every acre. Chemicals weren't the answer to that next increment of production. It was in genetics. It was in better seed. So, really, that's been driving us for more than 10 years now.”
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Supply and Demand: Achieving a Balance with Nature An entire article could be written on the faults of this logic, but we have already body slammed the idea that we need more space to grow more food. There is no doubt that GMO foods disrupt living systems. Indian activist Dr.Vandana Shiva’s organization Navdanya conducted a study that verified a 14.2 per cent decrease in bacteria and a 17 per cent decrease in actinomycete populations in soil from the use of GMO Bt Cotton over a three year period. The repercussions of this have resulted in over 25,000 suicides by Indian farmers since 1995. Monsanto lobbies to keep GMO foods from being labeled, even though this is done in most other industrialized nations. The real reason they lobby to keep us from being aware of what we —Hugh Grant, COO, Monsanto eat is that people would not eat it and no other country would buy it. To quote COO Hugh Grant: “Let me tell you essentially the same, then there is no the Monsanto view on labeling today. labeling requirement.” We believe very strongly, very strongly, Should it really be up to this guy to that these products are safe. And in their determine whether what we eat is safe safety, there is no need to label, and that's for us or not? Can you say conflict the position that has been held by the of interest? Is he really saying that FDA. The FDA labeling requirements fundamentally altering the genetics of a are really triggered by, if a product is plant is “essentially the same” as a natural
“We believe that the world needs about 35 to 40 per cent more food produced on every acre. Chemicals weren’t the answer to that next increment of production. It was in genetics. It was in better seed. So, really, that’s been driving us for more than 10 years now.” plant? All due respect to Monsanto’s beliefs, the real question is do you believe them? The bottom line is our industry has the power to stop the poison. Our greatest weapon to combat these travesties is our minds. We need to wake up. We need to use our buying power and support those companies that support us. Join a Community Supported Agriculture group or buy from a food co-op. Support restaurants that serve non-GMO products. Eliminate processed foods from your diet. Produce more and consume less. Go without meat for 14 days a year or go without meat for one meal. And probably the most potent weapon of all, MY be a farmer, start a garden. Sources: www.csa.com • www.pbs.org www.nytimes.com • www.globalissues.org www.fao.org
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s e c a p S Small
s d l e i Y Big Bloom by Lee McCall
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Part 1
The “Small Spaces, Big Yields Veg� series documented all growth characteristics of two specialty tomato strains from germination to pre-flowering. To briefly recap, Early Girl and Sugar Baby tomatoes, two short stature-high yield strains, were grown side-by-side in a renowned hydroponic drip bucket system, and a custom mix of organic soil using specialized aeration containers. Custom nutrient regimens were appointed to each style of cultivation for optimal results to take place. A mineral based nutrient system was used in the hydroponic systems and a vegan based nutrient for the organic soil plants. Both systems were equally fortified with select ingredients for maximum uptake and vigor. The purpose of this experiment is to document the growth traits of both strains and how they react in the various systems with the given controlled environment. After the trial is complete, the recorded data will reveal important information that may be implemented and applied to future grow experiments involving the same strains. This recorded data may include information on plant sensitivities and effects of nutrients, additives, and environmental reactions to temperature, humidity, CO2 and lighting, plus pest and disease tolerance. As with any trial, information that is acquired through errors allows for more control to be implemented in the future. When a plant is induced into a bloom cycle naturally, or manipulated through photoperiod control, metabolic rates drastically increase to aid in healthy fruit and flower production. Heavier concentrations of macro- and micronutritional elements are desired, and water uptake is increased as the root zone continues to expand in order
The Small Spaces, Big Yield Veg series ran from April to June 2010 in Maximum Yield USA and can be found online at maximumyield.com
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Small Spaces, Big Yields: Bloom - Part One to support more vegetation. This is the point in which growth is at its peak in the cycle. One to three inches of vertical growth per day is not uncommon for soil or hydroponic gardens once the plant has acclimated to the controlled environment and nutritional regimens. The garden is flourishing under 1,000 watts comprised of 60 per cent high pressure sodium and 40 per cent metal halide. The blended Kelvin temperatures create a very productive spectrum of useable light for plant growth and development. Relative humidity levels are slightly above average at 52 per cent and daytime temperatures are averaging between 76 to 79째F. Leaf transpiration is neither slow nor rapid but evenly paced due to the adequate amount of humidity in the air. This allows me to maintain a consistent watering regimen so fresh, nutritional elements are available at all times. There is no additional CO2 supplementation aside from the steady air exchange created from the carbon filtration exhaust system, and production is still vibrant.
The Sugar Baby soil specimen shows pre-flowers days before bloom.
Week 8, Day 50: For the initial transition from vegetative growth into the bloom phase, the light cycle is reduced to 12/12. The hydroponic plants
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get a base feeding of micro, grow and bloom in equal dilution rates, followed by the same metabolism boosting catalyst used in the vegetative regimen. Derived from plant, marine and mineral extracts, this organic enhancer contains crucial building blocks
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Small Spaces, Big Yields: Bloom - Part One in the plant’s food pyramid that when used at a rate of one milliliter per gallon, will help to expedite nutrient assimilation through humic acids, stimulate foliar development and offer root system protection from Bacillus subtilis species. In part three of the veg series, the same metabolic enhancer was used at a rate of one teaspoon per gallon; this was added at the same rate mentioned previously, one milliliter per gallon or one teaspoon per five gallons of nutrient solution. Humic acid designed for hydroponic application is supplemented into the recipe at the rate of one teaspoon per gallon of solution. A carbohydrate source derived from raw cane sugar, malt extract and molasses is rich in L-amino and organic acids. This sugary source will increase yields by adding weight to fruit and flower sites, and stimulate essential oil production, which equates to stronger aromas and flavors. A special enzyme formula increases absorption rates between roots and food. Mixed at the rate of one teaspoon per gallon, and promoting a clean root system, enzymes help the plant digest the available nutritional elements faster. Biologically active compost solution is added in every other
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The Early Girl shows pre-flowers just days before bloom
reservoir change to encourage healthy microbial activity and promote intense root development and sustainability. The soil plants will maintain their vegetative growth nutrient regimen for an additional seven days to help make-up for the delay experienced in the initial transplant.
Week 9, Day 57: The soil plants, although younger than their hydroponic sisters, will now take on a bloom food regimen as well since they are also producing pre-flowers. The Early Girl variety planted in soil is exhibiting the fastest growth rates of all the plants in the garden. This specific plant has the healthiest and densest foliage in terms of color and structure, and is yielding the most initial flowering sites. Additionally, the flowering sites are stacked closer together leaving less space between internodes. This is an early indication that fruit development will be prolific compared to the other plants. Food wise, the bloom counterpart to the vegan grow base nutrient is used for the soil plants transitional feeding. This 2-4-4 blend is derived from the same ingredients as the grow version: alfalfa meal, cane sugar, glacial rock powder, kieserite, molasses, soybean meal and other plant extracts comprise a phosphorous rich N-P-K. Organic calcium and magnesium is added in to boost the flowering potential and deter cal-mag deficiencies early on when fruit set starts to take place. A
Left: Flourishing roots exhibit aggressive health and vigor. Right: Early Girl in soil displays strong structure.
common deficiency experienced in flowering, lack of calcium may cause plant foliage to brown or yellow, thus negatively influencing yield overall as photosynthesis and chlorophyll production is slowed. Fish emulsion is also used in this cocktail, which adds select proteins to the diet, “greens� the foliage and increases soil fertility. Cold-processed Ascophyllum nodosum (kelp) should always accompany these ingredients. Seaweed provides stress reducing agents that help the transitional phase from veg to bloom. Copious amounts of vitamins, auxins and trace elements are available through the use of kelp, which encourages vigorous growth, healthy roots and combats nutrient deficiency. The same enzyme used in the hydroponic nutritional regimen is used in the organic soil as well. This helps keep the soil free of excessive fertilizer deposits and breaks down dead plant matter in the root zone. Beneficial fungal and bacterial colonies thrive since only non-chlorinated water is used for feedings, and fresh compost solution is added once every two feeding cycles. The microbes present in the compost solution will increase feeder root production, overall mass and fend off diseases such as Pythium.
sites are plentiful above the soil line and roots are literally engulfing the silica stone and covering layer of hydroton in the drip buckets, thus big yields are anticipated. The upcoming weeks are crucial to the success of the harvest. Nutrient concentrations and pH levels must be carefully monitored to maintain healthy growth. The plants stand at approximately two feet tall, which suits the portable environment perfectly since vertical space is limited. Part two will include specifics on bloom
boosting additives to increase yield, temperature augmentation to stimulate fruit set and a glimpse of the first fruits in the garden. For the sake of your own garden, use this article to build your own success formula. Every plant will react differently to a given environment even if the clones are taken from the same motherplant or seeds are planted from the same fruit. Documentation is vital in order to dissect benefits from detriments of a given crop cycle. Practice and consistency will produce the best results, along with cleanliness and efficient grow MY room operation.
Part one of the Small Spaces, Big Yields Bloom edition concludes with the diverse, all-you-can-eat menu for these prime species of flora. Bloom MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
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TIPS & TRICKS
by Clair Schwan
thinking about
Winter Crops
in Summer Greens are some of the best and most versatile crops that come out of the garden, and fortunately, they're also one of the easiest crops to grow well into winter. None of us want to think about winter just yet, but if we’re going to be prepared to harvest vegetables in the colder months, then now is the time to prepare. Unless your indoor gardening plans include adding heat to the space, you can expect to only harvest vegetables in the winter as they won’t grow much. If you’re a frugal gardener like me, start your winter vegetables during warmer weather that is more conducive to growth. Timing is everything. The challenge is to start your cold hardy crops at a time when you can get them to reach maturity just as winter starts to set in. Sure, you can take your spring kale plants into winter, but you’ll be fighting a couple of issues; they’re tired and near the end of their natural life, and they’re probably too tall to fit comfortably under a row cover or cloche. This means you’ll have to start thinking about what you want to harvest this winter and get those seeds started now. That will allow you to bring newly matured plants into the winter months, under the protection of your unheated greenhouse or garden tunnel. These fresh recruits will perform much better for you in the winter than any
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plants that were started in the spring, simply because they are younger and still have a zest for life. Another fine quality of newly matured plants is they tend not to be excessively tall, and therefore fit better under a cloche or row cover. As an example, Winterbor kale can be two to three feet tall after a full season of growing and harvesting. Being so high off the ground not only requires a relatively large row cover, but it also places the plant up away from the medium that naturally serves as the “thermal battery” during the winter months. Here are a few of my favorite winter harvesting crops. Consider direct seeding these now. Kale is very cold hardy and capable of surviving outdoors in milder winter climates. Given a modest amount of protection, kale can do very well in an unheated greenhouse. Bok Choy prefers cooler weather. I’ve harvested small varieties at -15°F. The ground in the greenhouse was frozen solid and all my plants took a hit, except the Bok Choy, which was in fine condition through to harvest. Carrots can be planted most any time of year. They probably won’t notice the first few frosts. The above ground portion might show signs of colder weather, but the root portion will be fresh and crisp in the ground for many weeks after all the summer plants are on the compost pile. If you cover the carrots with mulch or row covers, you can dig fresh carrots well into the winter, possibly all winter long.
Lettuce can be a cold-hardy crop if double protection is provided.
Onions and Leeks are cold hardy cousins even though they thrive in warmer weather. Leeks are the most cold hardy of the two, but onions can last longer into the winter months if you give them protection like thick mulch. Leeks are typically used right out of the ground, and onions are typically cured so they can be stored in the cellar. Lettuce and Salad Greens can do quite well into the colder months if you provide double protection. I’ve seen lettuce seedlings grow at temperatures as low as 9°F in an unheated greenhouse, using a simple cloche. They might look a little ragged after a night in the deep freeze, but they can come back during the warmth of the day. If you’re interested in growing through the winter, now is the time to start planning your garden. Stay focused on cruciferous vegetables, salad greens, root crops and Chinese vegetables that are in the mustard family. Good luck, and may you be successful in stretching the growing season by selecting the proper plants and giving them the basic protection they need. MY About the Author: Clair Schwan is an experienced gardener and builder of homemade greenhouses. For detailed discussion and pictures of his greenhouses, visit www.frugal-living-freedom.com. See his advice and counsel on a range of vegetable gardening and greenhouse topics at www.vegetable-gardening-andgreenhouses.com
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PRODUCT spotlight
Continued from page 44
See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Balanced Humic Nutrition Agricultural Organics Bloom Humate provides a balance as found in natural soil systems. It increases plants’ ability to absorb beneficial nutrients. Bloom Humate is an excellent fuel source for beneficial micro-organisms. Use 2.5 milliliters per quart of nutrient solution every week of grow and flower cycle. This product contains humic acid. Visit your favorite hydro retailer for more information.
PeaK Efficiency Soul Synthetics PeaK (0-12-7) bloom finisher contains unique, proprietary botanical extracts as well as ample phosphorus and potassium to encourage the highest density in flowering. Years of research and extensive testing have resulted in a distinctive PK formulation designed for plant strength and vigor during the bloom phase. Soul Synthetics PeaK supports the development of intense blooms in your favorite flowers. PeaK is derived from alfalfa extract, yucca extract, molasses, hop extract, phosphoric acid, potassium hydroxide and bamboo extract. For more information visit your favorite indoor gardening shop.
Life. Energy. Creation. Biodynamic Thunder Manifest Giant Yields ____ Hydrofarm’s newest Phantom Digital Ballast, the 250 watt model, is rigorously tested and features silent operation, lightweight design, multiple placement options and maximum lumen output. The dual resettable breakers protect lamp and household circuits. It’s the only ballast on the market designed for vertical operation for cool running and drives the highest light output for maximum plant growth. The Phantom comes with a universal reflector adaptor and an eight foot heavy duty cord. An internal resin coating protects components for long life. Contact your Hydrofarm retailer for more information.
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BD Thunder is a genuine biodynamic creation that operates from a mineral, biological and energetic perspective. As little as a tablespoon per gallon (less than one per cent by volume) produces measureable results. Think of BD Thunder as a micro-soil. Use it as a compost starter; a premix in soil or hydroponic applications at one to 20 per cent by volume; a soil drench; or for making compost teas. BD Thunder is also great to use with starts and transplants. Try it for yourself today, and experience the benefits of biodynamics. Ask your favorite indoor gardening retailer for more information.
MY
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TALKING SHOP
Dayton Hydroponics AT A GLANCE Store name: Dayton Hydroponics Inc. Owner(s): Jason Powell and Alan Credlebaugh Location: 3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Rd. Dayton, Ohio Phone: 937-859-3999 Email: daytonhydrostore@sbcglobal.net Web: www.daytonhydroponics.com Motto: “ Your home for indoor and outdoor gardening.”
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Owner of Dayton Hydroponics Alan Credlebaugh is thankful for the education gained from customers and owning a business, which helped drive the store’s success.
Summer is in full bloom in Dayton, Ohio, which means temperatures are up around 95°F, just like they have been for the past three months and just like they will be, probably for another two. Jason Powell and Alan Credlebaugh, owners of Dayton Hydroponics, are steadily loading vehicles with soils from Foxfarm, Humboldt Soils and the like for customers trying to keep up with their outdoor garden’s impressive summer growth. With nearly a decade of experience, they’ve gotten pretty good at predicting what their customers will ask for long before they inquire, and supplying growers with those innovative products to help them push their limits. Jason and Alan have been friends since kindergarten. Prior to opening Dayton Hydroponics in 2001, Jason worked with his father for a trucking company. Alan was a radio DJ. They both had hobby gardens, and with the nearest indoor gardening shop in Columbus nearly an hour away, frequent trips were made to pick up parts and products; half of those trips were spent backtracking when the guys realized something was missing. Fed up and frustrated, they agreed to go into business together and open their own store.
It was 2001, and new business owners Alan and Jason were novice growers. The 700 square foot store was located on Patterson road beside a grocery store. Shifts were split between them as they were both still working at their daytime jobs. Jason recalls falling asleep at the counter simply because the shop was so frequently vacant in that first year. They almost hung up their hats on few occasions, and they are happy they persevered. It took them a full year to get established enough to make the store a full time career. Eventually they tired of fighting with the bread delivery guy to get to their product shipment and in 2002 they moved to their current location, which features an impressive 2,500 square feet. At the time the Internet wasn’t as advanced or extensive as it is now and finding products and distributors was a challenge. Customers would ask for specifics and it wasn’t always easy to fill their needs. The wholesale companies didn’t just pop up on Google. The days were long, the pay was low. But advertising and word-of-mouth drove customers to the store. They also credit their listing in Maximum Yield for a frequent influx of new clientele. Despite two other stores in town competing for customers, sales continue to climb. And although they’ve been in business for nearly 10 years, new customers frequent the store. Modern gardening practices like hydroponics and indoor technologies are more widespread now, which makes selling product a lot easier as well. Through the years their knowledge—of the indoor gardening industry and running a business—has grown thanks to many hours spent reading Maximum Yield and conversations with customers. Dayton supplies some of the local metro parks, including Cox Arboretum, with lighting for their indoor and outdoor public parks and organic greenhouses. The parks serve as educational centers that teach children and adults about sustainable horticulture, plant science and conservation, helping to grow the industry every year. According to Jason, the hydroponics industry is not as wildly popular as it is in states like California, Florida and Oregon, but it is definitely getting recognized as a viable growing alternative in Ohio. To help with the influx of new customers, Paul Massie was hired in 2006 and Wendy Campbell joined the team in 2007. Both Paul and Wendy have been with Dayton Hydroponics ever since. Dayton Hydroponics supplies a good mix of outdoor and indoor gardeners of all ages. The 18 to 50-year-old demographic is strong in Dayton thanks to their two major universities—the University of Dayton and Wright State University—plus one of the largest community colleges in the nation, Sinclair community college. Industry is quite strong there as well, despite the closure of the big General Motors assembly plant in Moraine, which keeps fresh blood coming into the store. Alan and Jason are finding that many of their customers, particularly the older soil gardeners, are making the switch to indoor gardening and hydroponics. They’re tired of lugging heavy soils around and see indoor gardening as the next big
Dayton Hydroponics carries all the top brands plus accessories for do-it-yourself enthusiasts
thing in growing. They also supply many orchid clubs and gardening clubs. They carry all the top name brands including Botanicare, Atami, General Hydroponics, Humboldt Nutrients, Dutch Master, Technaflora and Sunlight Supply. Many of their customers are do-it-yourself enthusiasts, and Dayton supplies them with the pumps, sprayers, cloners, tables, reservoirs, etc. that they need to complete their projects. They heavily support products from National Garden Wholesale as their products are made in the United States. Jason and Alan encourage their customers to buy local as often as possible. Being an indoor gardening retailer takes a lot of time, effort and patience but thanks to an ever-evolving industry, reliable distributors and an overwhelming variety of products, business couldn’t be better. MY MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
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Environmental Control for
Better Tasting
Produce by Ed Harwood
There are probably very few adults in the Western world today that don’t remember being told: “eat your vegetables.” We all remember the agony of being forced (or coerced) into eating nutritious foods as kids.Yet today, while many of us have managed to acquire a taste for healthy, natural foods, our kids continue to demand just the opposite. You can’t really blame them. Next to ice cream and sticky candies, which are chemically engineered to induce cravings, squash and cauliflower begin to look bland and unappetizing.
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“Research tells us that the human palette is surprisingly sensitive...perceiving minute differences in the taste, texture and scents of vegetables.”
Food, Nutrients and the Senses The first step in growing tastier foods is to understand what makes foods delicious in the first place. Our senses provide the basis for our preference for one food over another. The way something feels, its smell, color
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and taste—these are known as a food’s “organoleptic” properties. Manufactured foods are engineered to meet exact organoleptic specifications, and tested by people trained in evaluating foods using the five senses. Fruits and vegetables are also blessed with these properties. Think of the smell of chervil or fennel, the crunch
of radicchio or romaine, the beauty of Lola Rosa or the flavor of arugula. While their appeal is perhaps more genteel than that of industrial foods, natural foods nevertheless possess an abundance of organoleptic qualities. Research tells us that the human palette is surprisingly sensitive to these qualities, perceiving minute differences in the taste, texture and scents of vegetables. A German study, published in 2005, found that qualities such as sweetness, crispness and intensity of flavor influence the preferences of consumers of broccoli and cauliflower. The sweeter, juicier and more pronounced in flavor the vegetable, the more they were preferred by consumers, while overly bitter or pungent broccoli and cauliflower were less favored. This sort of research has significant implications for home and indoor gardeners,
as it reveals the qualities that make homegrown food more attractive. Most of these qualities are the result of growing conditions. This means that if we can control growing conditions, we can actually change the way our homegrown food tastes. The key to doing this is fertilizer—what types of fertilizers we use and how much we give to our plants. By changing the growing conditions of crops, fertilizers have a direct effect on their taste, color, feel and other organoleptic qualities. Farmers can have great control over these qualities by altering the amounts of nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and calcium, reaching plants. For example, a recent study by Lithuanian researchers on nitrogen fertilizers and Chinese cabbage heads found a rate of optimum nitrogen fertilization. Below that rate, the study
“Square watermelons are being grown nowadays, because they save space in retail stores.”
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found, yields decreased and plants produced smaller cabbage heads. The study also found that, when over-fertilized, the leafy veggie’s quality actually decreased in terms of vitamin C and sugar content. Another study, conducted by researchers from the University of Florida at Gainesville, researched the effects of variations in nitrogen fertilization on another leafy green, lettuce. Analyzing the effects of different fertilizers on aspects such as bitterness, sweetness and crunchiness, the researchers concluded that calcium nitrate fertilizers produce a better tasting crop than cheaper and more common ammonium nitrate solutions.
Looks Aren’t Everything Most produce shoppers are familiar with the idea that farms (particularly industrial agribusiness farms) regularly breed fruits for better looks: those glossy red tomatoes that look like they jumped off the pages of a magazine, those large and impossibly round peaches. In Japan, square watermelons are even being grown nowadays, because they save storage space in retail stores. What most consumers don’t realize is that today, food is also being grown in ways never imagined before outside of science fiction. New growing methods include vertical farms using hydroponics as well as aeroponics, a method that harnesses LED lighting to grow vegetables indoors, year-round.
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These methods are generally referred to as Controlled Environment Agriculture (CEA). Aside from hydroponics and aeroponics, CEA also includes aquaculture, aquaponics and greenhouse growing. CEA practices allow for a greater level of control in everything from pH levels to nitrogen intake, sunlight exposure and climate regulation—the very factors that affect the taste, color and consistency of produce. By giving the farmer greater control, while eliminating variables like soil quality and adverse weather, CEA allows farmers to refine and shape the qualities of the food they grow. While its advantages over conventional farming methods are clear, controlled environment agriculture also provides a number of advantages over organic agriculture. Because organic agriculture eschews the use of synthetic fertilizers, organic farmers have little control over the exact amount of nutrients that reach their plants. The same goes for pH levels. While, for soil growing farmers, it takes years to change pH levels in the soil, aeroponic farmers can simply add more acidity to the mist that they spray on their plants, giving them precise control of crucial pH, which dictates nutrient availability to plants. As a result of the greater control over conditions that agriculture in controlled environments allows, the final product—the vegetables grown by the farmer—come out more appealing. Better tasting vegetables are vegetables that are eaten more often, and in greater quantities. Many vegetables, such as leafy greens, are high in nutrition and low
in calories, making them the quintessential health food. In this age of debate over how to ensure healthy lifestyles and provide reasonable healthcare, finding new ways to broaden the appeal of vegetables is of paramount importance. The end result of all of this is better tasting and healthier food. And who knows, maybe next time you serve spinach, your kids will actually ask for seconds.
“[Studies show] qualities such as sweetness, crispness and intensity of flavor influence the preferences of consumers of broccoli and cauliflower.� Sources: http://archives.cnn.com/2001/WORLD/asiapcf/east/ 06/15/square.watermelon http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Controlled_environment_agriculture http://www.aerofarms.com
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MAX-MART
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LLC
Phone: 510.903.1808 Fax: 510.764.1246 13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577
www.hydrogardendelight.com
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MAX-MART
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MAXIMIZE YOUR EXPOSURE WITH
MAX-MART
Get your Max-Mart ad into the next issue! Call Maximum Yield at (250) 729-2677 for more information. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
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COMING UP IN september
Fungi and the Ecosystem
Within our ecosystem, certain types of fungi called Mycorrhiza assist the natural processes of life and decay. Learn about the various types of Mycorrhiza, their growth processes and how they operate.
The Modernized Gericke System
This article revisits an old idea made new again, the Gericke System, which incorporates two phases in one system—a solid media or substrate-based seed bed.
Chelated Micronutrients
Discover the several forms of trace mineral chelates and learn why amino acid chelates are particularly beneficial.
Hydroponic Growing Systems
Discussed are three hydroponic growing systems in wide use for commercial production made more complicated since a rooting medium is involved.
www.maximumyield.com will be available September 1 for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across USA and on maximumyield.com I N D O O R
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G A R D E N I N G
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DO YOU
know? 7
8 9
1 2
Livestock production is responsible for 21 per cent of greenhouse emissions globally, more than all forms of transportation combined.
The NFT method has primarily been limited to the production of lettuce, or other short-term crops, where root mass is not a factor in the movement of nutrient solution.
10
Root hairs are single walled cells, approximately one micron wide and up to three millimeters long depending on the plant species.
In horticultural trials, percentage of dry plant matter is used as an indication of increased photosynthesis and biomass production.
11
Although day neutral plants flower without regard to the length of darkness, they typically flower earlier and more profusely under long daylight regimes.
A higher concentration of photons mean more intense light is delivered to the plants, resulting in higher photosynthetic productivity, where plants convert light into food.
12
3
Only sodium chloride in its inorganic state produces toxic effects.
4
The largest cell on earth is an ostrich egg. The smallest cell is a bacterium.
5
When mixing chemicals, a difference of just two pH units can cause a drastic reaction.
6
When preparing coco coir to be used as a growing medium, compressed blocks work well as they are convenient to transport and store before use.
Over 50 different chemicals can be legally added to town water supplies, without residents’ knowledge, in order to make it safer to drink.
A common mistake in horticulture tests is putting all of the treatment plants in a group and the control plants in a separate group. Any differences between the two sets of plants might be due to slight differences in their growing environment, rather than an indication of the treatment results.
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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
ALABAMA Alabama Organics 3348 Bethel Road, Valley Head, AL 35989 256-635-0802
ALASKA Brown’s Electrical Supply 365 Industrial Way, Anchorage, AK 99501 907-272-2259 Far North Garden Supply 300 Centaur Street, Wasilla, AK 99654 907-376-7586 Far North Garden Supply 2834 Boniface Parkway Anchorage, AK 99504 907-333-3141 Holmtown Nursery Inc. 1301 - 30th Avenue, Fairbanks, AK 99701 907-451-8733
ARIZONA ACI Hydroponics 1325 South Park Lane, Tempe, AZ 85282 800-633-2137 Homegrown Hydroponics 601 East Broadway Road, Tempe, AZ 85282 480-377-9096 Homegrown Hydroponics 1702 East Prince Road, Tucson, AZ 85719 520-323-1212 Natural Pools & Gardens 2143 North Country Suite C, Tucson, AZ 85716 520-323-2627 Sea of Green Hydroponics 815 W. University Drive, Suite 110, Tempe, AZ 85281 800-266-4136 Sea of Green West 2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116, Phoenix, AZ 85023 602-504-8842 Sea of Green Hydroponics 402 North 4th Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-622-6344
ARKANSAS Fermentables 3915 Crutcher Street, N. Little Rock, AR 72118 501-758-6261 Mickey’s Mercantile 1303 Highway 65 South, Clinton, AR 72031 501-412-0214 Old Soul Organics and More 1771 Crossover Road, Fayetteville, AR 72701 479-444-6955
CALIFORNIA 3rd Street Hydroponics 636 3rd Street Oakland, CA 94607 510-452-5521 805 Hydroponics & Organics 1785 E. Thousand Oaks Boulevard Thousand Oaks, CA 91362 805-494-1785 A+ Hydroponics & Organics 1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 949-642-7776
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A Fertile World (Eureka) 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-0200 A Fertile World (Fortuna) 610 7th Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-0700 Abundant Hydroponics LLC 1611 Shop Street, #1-A, South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-54 HYDRO Advanced Garden Supply 2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard, Building C, Unit 9, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-4769 Advanced Garden Supply 3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F, Cameron Park, CA 95682, 530-676-2100 Advanced Hydroponics 17808 Sierra Highway, Canyon Country, CA 91351 661-299-1603 AG Natural 403 Idaho Maryland Road, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-274 0990 All Seasons Hydroponics 17614 Chatsworth Street, Granada Hills, CA 91344 818-368-4388 Alternative Hydro 3870 East, Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91107 888-50-HYDRO Always Sunny Hydroponics 708 W. Swain Road Stockton, CA 95207 209-473-9827 All Ways Hydro 2220 Eastridge Ave. Suite C Riverside CA 92507 888-HYDRO98 American Hydroponics 286 South G Street, Arcata, CA 95521 800-458-6543 Anthony’s Garden & Lighting Supply 30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9 Sutter Creek, CA 95685 209-267-5416 Anything Grows 10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C, Truckee, CA 96161 530-582-0479 Atlantis Garden Supply 2851 A Whipple Road, Union City, CA 94587 510-487-8007 Atwater Hydroponics 3350 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90039 323-663-8881 Auburn Organic 4035 Grass Valley Highway, Auburn, CA 95602 530-823-8900 B & S Gardening Supplies 590 Commerce Court, Manteca, CA 95336 209-239-8648 Bakersfield Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 Bare Roots Hydroponics 1615 East Cypress, #5 Redding, CA 96002 530-244-2215
Beginning Hydroponics PO Box 1232, Corona, CA 92787 951-735-4446 Berkeley Indoor Garden 844 University Avenue Berkeley, CA 94710 510-549-2918 Berkeley’s Secret Garden 921 University Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710 510-486-0117 Best Coast Growers 4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C, San Diego, CA 92120 800-827-1876 Best Yield Garden Supply 3503 West Temple Avenue, Unit A, Pomona, CA 91768 909-839-0505 Better Choice Hydroponics 610 S. Washington Street, Senora, CA 95370 209 533 2400 Better Grow Hydro Pasadena 1271 E. Colorado Boulevard, Pasedena, CA 91106 626 737 6612 Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles 5554 Bandini Boulevard, Bell, CA 91106 323-510-2700; 877 640 GROW Brentwood Hydroponics & Organics 560 Valdry Ct #85 Brentwood, CA 94513 925-634-6704 BWGS West 2247 North Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291 888-316-1306 California Hydro Garden 1043 South Glendora Avenue, Suite A West Covina, CA 91790 626-813-0868 California Hydroponics 310 Coral Street, Suite C Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-423-4769 Calwest Hydroponics 11620 Sterling Avenue, Suite A Riverside, CA 92503 800-301-9009 Central Coast Hydrogarden 1951 Santa Barbara Street, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805-544-GROW Citrus Heights Hydrogarden 8043 Greenback Lane Citrus Heights, CA 95610 916-728-4769 City Farm Hydroponics 8903 Laurel Canyon Boulevard, Sun Valley, CA 91352 818-767-2076 City Farmer’s Nursery 4832 Home Avenue, San Diego, CA 92105 619-284-6358 Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply 43 Soda Bay Road, Lakeport, CA 95453 707-263-4000 CNG Garden Supplies 22 Ricknbacker Circle, Livermore, CA 94551 209-836-5550
Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics 116 West Orangeburg Avenue, Modesto, CA 95350 209-567-0590 Concord Indoor Garden 2771 Clayton Road, Concord, CA 94519 925-671-2520 Conejo Hydroponics 3481 Old Conejo Road #106 Newbury Park, CA 91320 805-480-9596 Conrad Hydroponics Inc. 14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive, Clearlake, CA 95422 707-994 3264 Constantly Growing 6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite A Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-642-9710 Constantly Growing 4343 Hazel Avenue, Fair Oaks, CA 95628 916-962-0043 Constantly Growing - Davis 123 D Street Davis, CA 95616 530-756-4774 D&S Garden Supplies 17-130 Doolittle Drive San Leandro, CA 94577 510-430-8589 Dazey’s Supply 3082 Redwood Drive, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3002 Direct Hydroponics Wholesale 14228 Alberts Way, Chino, CA 91710 909-606-5885 Dirt Cheap Hydroponics 17975 H Highway 1, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-964-4211 Discount Hydroponics 4745 Hiers Avenue, Riverside, CA 92505 877-476-9487 Dr. Greenthumbs Hydroponic Garden Supplies 566 San Ramon Valley Blvd. Danville, CA 94526 925-314-9376 Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply 164 Dinsmore Drive, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-726-0395 El Centro Hydro & Brew Supply Inc. 591 main Street, Suite N-2 El Centro, CA 92243 760-235-4985 Elite Horticulture Supply 22330 Sherman Way, C13, Canoga Park, CA 91303 818-347-5172 Emerald Garden 8249 Archibald Avenue, Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730 909-466-3796 Emerald Garden 13325 South Highway 101, Hopland, CA 95482 707-744-8300 Emerald Garden 307 East Perkins Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-463-2510 Endless Green Hydroponics 25 Enterprise Court, Suite 3 Napa, CA 94558 707-254-0200 Evergreen Hydroponics 923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B, Upland, CA 91786 909-946-7100
Everything Green Hydroponics 915 Texas Street, Fairfield, CA 94533 707-432-0774 Everything Green 448 Georgia Street, Vallejo, CA 94590 707-647-0774 Extreme Hydroponics 11479 San Fernando Road C, San Fernando, CA 91340 818-898-0915 EZ Green Hydroponics 7017 Reseda Boulevard, Reseda, CA 91335 818-776-9076 Farm Hydroponics, The 1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-3276 Foothill Hydroponics 10705 Burbank Boulevard, N. Hollywood, CA 91601 818-760-0688 Foothills Hydrogarden 3133 Penryn Road, Penryn, CA 95663 916-270-2413 Full Sun Supply 3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3 Santa Rosa, CA 95403 877-FULL-SUN Funny Farms Hydroponics 963 Transport Way, #12 Petaluma, CA 94954 707-775-3111 G & G Organics and Hydroponics 901 W. Victoria Street Unit D, Compton, CA 90220 310-632-0122 Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2 Chico, CA 95928 530-342-7762 Garden Depot, The 203 Commerce Street, Suite 101 Lodi, CA 95240 209-339-9950 Garden Highway Garden Supply 598 Garden Highway #22 Yuba City, CA 95991 530-755-2877 Garden Shed, The 1136 El Camino Real San Carlos, CA 650-508-8600 Garden Spout, The 44800 Highway 101, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-7260 Garden Spout, The 630 S. Main Street, Willits, CA 95490 707-456-0196 Garden Warehouse 6355 Scarlet Court, #2, Dublin, CA 94568 925-556-3319 Gardening Unlimited 60 Old El Pueblo Road, Scotts Valley, CA 95066 831-457-1236 Go Big Hydroponics 4501 Van Nuys Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91403 818-789-3341 Go Green Hydroponics 15721 Ventura Boulevard, Encino, CA 91436 818-990-1198 Golden Gecko Garden Center, The 4665 Marshall Road, Garden Valley, CA 95633 530-333-2394 Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply 8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48, Stockton, CA 95210 209-951-3550
Gonzo Grow 2550 Guerneville Road, Suite C, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-546-1800 Gottagrow Garden Supply 769 Wilson Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 707-544-7782 Grass Roots Hydroponics 31875 Corydon, Suite 130 Lake Elsinore, CA 92530 951-245-2390 Grass Valley Hydrogarden 12506 Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-477-2996 Green Acres Hydroponics 1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180, Sacramento, CA 95834 916-419-4394 Green Coast Hydroponics 3560 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805-898-9922 Green Coast Hydroponics 2405 Mira Mar Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-627-5636 Green Coast Hydroponics 496 Meats Avenue Orange, CA 92865 714-974-4769 Green Coast Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Green Door Hydro and Solar 830 Traction Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90013 212-625-1323 Greenfire Sacramento 3230 Auburn Boulevard, Sacramento, CA 95821 916-485-8023 Green Gopher Garden Supply 679 Redwood Avenue, Suite A, Sand City, CA 93955 831-899-0203 Green Joint Ventures 61 Tarp Circle, Salinas, CA 93901 831-998-8628 Green Lady Hydroponics 4879 Newport Avenue, San Diego, CA 92107 619-222-5011 GreenLeaf Hydroponics 2212 Artesia Boulevard, Redondo Beach, CA 90278 310-374-2585 Green Light Hydroponics 2615 Honolula Ave. Montrose, CA 91020 818-640-2623 Green Logic Garden Supply 860 Piner Road, #38, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 707-843-3156 Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply 1480 South E. Street, Suite D, San Bernardino, CA 92408 909-885-5919 Green Thumb Hydroponics 35 Quinta Court, Suite B, Sacramento, CA 95823 916-689-6464 Green Thumb Lighting & Garden 1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5, Torrance, CA 90501 888-326-GROW Greentrees Hydroponics Inc. 2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit D Vista, CA 92081 760-598-7551
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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
GreenWay Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Grodan Inc. 5152 Commerce Avenue, Moorpark, CA 93021 541-646-8245 Gro More Garden Supply 2937 Larkin Avenue, Clovis, CA 93021 541-646-8245 Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego 1591 N. Cuyamaca Street, El Cajon, CA 93612 619-749-6777 Growers Choice Hydroponics 1100 Carver Road, Modesto, CA 95350 209-522-2727 Growers Choice Hydroponics 16754 East 14th Street, San Leandro, CA 94578 510-278-6200 Grow It Yourself Gardens 401 Sunset Drive, Suite L, Antioch, CA 94509 925-755-GROW Grow Light Express 5318 East Second Street suite 164, Long Beach, CA 90803 888-318-GROW Grow Your Own 3401 Traval Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-731-2115 Grow Zone 718 Willow Rd. Menlo Park CA 94025 650-326-4769 Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics 12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C, Riverside, CA 92503 877-468-7974 H20 Gardening 355 West 7th Street, San Pedro, CA 90731 310-514-1416 Hahn’s Lighting 260 E. VA Suite 1, San Jose, CA 95112 408-295-1755 Harvest Hydroponics 6650 Merchandise Way Suite B, Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-622-5190 Healthy Harvest Hydroponics and Organics 2958 S. Higuera St. San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805.596.0430 High Desert Hydroponics 13631 Pawnee Road, #7 Apple Valley, CA 92308 760-247-2090 High Street Hydro 180 Cleveland Avenue, Auburn, CA 95603 530-885-5888 Hi-Tech Gardening 5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-4710 Hollywood Hydroponics and Organics 5109 1/2 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105 323-662-1908 Home Brews & Gardens 3176 Thorn St San Diego, CA 92104 619 630 2739
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
Home Life Hydroponics and Organics 1745 East Vista Way, Vista, CA 92084 760-643-2150 Hooked Up Hydroponics 339 S. Golden State Boulevard, Turlock, CA 95380 209-668-1300 House of Hydro 224 Weller Street, #B, Petaluma, CA 94952 707-762-4769 Humboldt Electronics 2547 California Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-9408 Humboldt Hydroponics 1302 Union Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-4304 Humboldt Hydroponics 2174 Pine Street, Redding, CA 96001 530-241-7454 Humboldt Hydroponics 601 I Street, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-3377 Humboldt Hydroponics 2010 Tunnel Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-1402 Humboldt Nutrients 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 888-420-7770 Hydroasis 2643 S. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90232 888-355-4769 Hydrobrew 1319 South Coast Highway, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-966-1885; 877-966-GROW Hydro Depot 5665 Redwood Drive, #B, Rohnert Park, CA 94928 707-584-2384 Hydrogarden Delight 13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577 510-903-1808 Hydrogarden Mendocino County 1240 North Main Street, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-962-9252 Hydro King 105 Hartnell Avenue, Suite C and D, Redding, CA 96002 888-822-8941 Hydro King 2540 South Whitman Place, Chico, CA 959282 530-893-GROW (4769) Hydro-Logic Purification Systems 2825 Mattison Lane, Suite 103, Santa Cruz, CA 95065 888 H2O LOGIC HydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 351 C Hastings Av., Ukiah, CA 95482 707-467-0400 Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The 1995 Evans Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124 415-824-9376 Hydroponics 4 Less 41669 Winchester Avenue, Temecula, CA 92590 800-A1-HYDRO
Hydroponics Market 15816 Arminta St Van Nuys, CA 91406 818-305-6261 Hydroponics Plus 2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite C Concord, CA 94520 925-691-7615 Hydroponics Unlimited 641 W. Palmdale Blvd. “D” Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-3906 Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics 1307 W. Sixth Street, #211, Corona, CA 92882 951-479-8069 Igrow Hydro 2280 Veatch Street, Oroville, CA 95965 530-534-4476 Igrow Hydro 9000 Atkinson Street, Roseville, CA 95678 916-773-4476 Inland Empire Hydrogarden 1301-C South State Street, San Jancinto, CA 92853 886-72-HYDRO Inland Empire Hydrogarden 28822 Old Town Front St. #206 Temecula, CA 92590 886-74-HYDRO Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS) 7922-B Miramar Road, San Diego, CA 92126 858-578-IGS7 Kaweah Grower Supply 1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way, Visalia, CA 93293 559-625-4937 Kern Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B, Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 LAX Hydro 10912 S. La Cienaga Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90045 310-337-6995 Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics ‘N’ More 14626 East Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90605 562-945-0909 Let it Grow 1228 2nd Street, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-9086 Let it Grow 160 Westwood Center, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-8733 Liquid Gardens 21752 Devonshire Street, Chatsworth, CA 91311 818-718-7624 Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics 1772 Clark Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-498-9525 Los Angeles Hydroponics and Organics 3007-3009 W. Artesia Blvd. Torrance, CA 90504 310-323-4937 Lumatek Digital Ballasts 33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite B Novato, CA 94949 415-233-4273 M&M Garden Supply 2509 West Lane, Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 209-939-0664
M&M Garden Supply 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 Marin Hydroponics 1219 Grant Avenue, Novato, CA 94945 415-897-2197 Medicine Man Farms 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Mendocino Garden Shop PO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1), Mendocino, CA 95460 707-937-3459 Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply 900 East School Way, Redwood Valley, CA 95470 707-485-0668 Merced Hydroponics 1809 East 21st Street, Merced, CA 95340 209-726-4769 M.G.S. 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, Hayward, CA 94541 510-582-0900 Mighty Garden Supply 4780 Mission Gorge Pl. #A-1, San Diego, CA 92120 619-287-3238 Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply 224B Reindollar Avenue, Marina, CA 93933 831-38-HYDRO Monterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics 81 Hangar Way, #1, Watsonville, CA 95076 831-761-9999 Myron L Company 2450 Impala Drive, Carlsband, CA 9210-7226 760-438-2021 Mystic Gardens 8484 Florin Road, #110, Sacramento, CA 95828 916-381-2464 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 1950 C South Grove Avenue, Ontario, CA 91761 888-888-3319 Nature’s Secret Garden and Supply 41469 Albrae Street, Fremont, CA 94577 510-623-8393 New Leaf Hydro 34150 123rd Street, Parablossom, CA 93553 661-944-2226 NorCal Creations PO Box 28, Cedar Ridge, CA 95924 Nor Cal Hydroponics 4837 Geary Boulevard, San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 60 West 4th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-9999 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 357 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-5550 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 1070 Highway 101, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-1200 Northcoast Hydrogardens 3450 North State Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-462-7214 No Stress Hydroponics 7543 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90046 323-845-9874
Nutes Int’l 204 N Quarantina Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93103 805-687-6699 One Stop Hydroponics 12822 Victory Boulevard North Hollywood, CA 91606 818-980-5855 Oracle Garden Supply 5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100 San Diego, CA 92121 858-558-6006 Orange County Hydroponics 12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H, Stanton, CA 90680 714-893-9493 Organic Bountea 1919 Dennis Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 800-798-0765 Orsa Organix 111 Willow Street, Redwood City, CA 94063 650-369-1269 Pacific Beach Hydroponics 1852 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, CA 92109 858-274-2559 Pacific Coast Hydroponics 4147 Sepulveda Boulevard, Culver City, CA 90230 310-313-1354 Pacific Garden Supply 128 H Carlos Drive, San Rafael, CA 94903 Palmdale Hydroponics 2728 East Palmdale Boulevard Suite 108, Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-9908 Palm Springs Hydroponics 4651 Ramon Road, Palm Springs, CA 92264 760-327-ROOT Plant It Earth 2279 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94114 415-626-5082 Plant Life 32 Race Street, San Jose, CA 95126 408-283-9191 Plant-N-Grow 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Precision Hydroponics 132 Kennedy Avenue, Campbell, CA 95008 408-866-8176 Pro Gardening Systems 3715 Santa Rosa Avenue #2, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-585-8633 Pro Gardening Systems 4936 Highway 12, Santa Rosa, CA 95472 707-538-8402 Pro Gardening Systems 765 Petaluma Avenue, Sebastopol, CA 95472 707-829-7252 Redway Feed Garden and Pet Supply 290 Briceland Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-2765 Redwood Garden Supply 55 Myers Avenue, Myers Flat, CA 95554 707-943-1515 Reforestation Technologies International 1341 Daton Street, Units G&I Salinas, CA 93901 831-424-1494; 800-RTI-GROW
RH Distribution 1751 S. Pointe Avenue Ontario, CA 91761 888-545-8112 Roots Grow Supply 1330 North Hulbert, #101 Fresno, CA 93728 559-840-0122 Roots Grow Supply 40091 Enterprise Dr. #A Oakhurst CA 93644 559 683 6622 Sac Hydroponics 9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite C Sacramento, CA 95827 916-369-7968 San Diego Hydroponics East County 11649 Riverside Drive, Suite 141, Lakeside, CA 92040 619-562-3276 San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities 4122 Napier Street, San Diego, CA 92110 619-276-0657 San Diego Hydroponics North 802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108 San Marcos, CA 92069 760-510-1444 San Francisco Hydro 123 Tenth Street, San Francisco, CA 94103 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West Side 815 Almar Avenue, Unit K, Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-466-9000 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East Side 4000 Cordelia Lane Soquel, CA 95073 831-475-9900 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North 6241 Graham Hill Road, Felton, CA 95018 831-335-9990 Santee Hydroponics 7973A Mission Gorge Road, Santee, CA 92071 619-270-8649 SB Hydro 1109 W. 190th Street, Unit #F, Gardena, CA 90248 310-538-5788 Seaside Hydrogarden 1070 Highway 101 North, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-465-3520 Shadow Valley Aquatics 75 Kimick Way, Red Bluff, CA 96080 530-526-0479 Skywide Import & Export Ltd. 5900 Lemon Hill Avenue, Sacramento, CA 95824 916-383-2369 Socal Hydroponics 1727-B Oceanside Boulevard, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-439-1084 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - Mtn. View 569 East Evelyn Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94041 650-968-4070 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose 1185 South Bascom Avenue, San Jose, CA 95128 408-292-4040 South County Hydroponics 22511 Aspan Street, Suite E Lake Forest, CA 92630 949-837-8252 South Valley Hydroponics 320 Kishimura Drive, #3 Gilroy, CA 95020 1-866-848-GROW
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
177
MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
Southern Humbolt Garden Supplies 34919 Yucaipa Boulevard, Yucaipa, CA 92399 909-797-6888 Sparetime Supply 208 E. San Francisco Avenue, Willits, CA 95490-4006 707-459-6791 Specialty Garden Center 1970 East Vista Way, Suite 10, Vista, CA 92084 760-758-4769 Stop N Grow 340 Pine Avenue, Goleta, CA 93003 805-685-3000 Stop N Grow 4160 Market Street, Unit 11 Ventura, CA 93003 805-639-9489 Stop N Grow 640 S. Frontage Road, Nipomo, CA 93444 805-619-5125 Sun-In Hydroponics 1257A Cleveland Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-578-5747 Sunland Hydroponics 8300 Foothill Boulevard, Sunland, CA 91040 818-352-5300 Sunland Hydroponics 4136 Eagle Rock Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90065 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 850 Shasta Avenue, Suite B Morro Bay, CA 93442 805-772-5869 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2 Paso Robles, CA 93446 805-434-2333 Super Starts PO Box 732, Bellmont, CA 94002 650-346-8009 Surf City Hydroponics 7319 Warner Street, Suite B Huntington Beach, CA 92647 714-847-7900 Sweet Leaf Hydroponics 1611 Sebastobol Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-575-GROW (4237) Sylvandale Gardens 1151 Evergreen Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3606 Tahoe Garden Supply 645 Westlake Boulevard, Suite 2, PO Box 487 Tahoe City, CA 96145 530-581-3200 Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening 62 Sutherland Drive, Auburn, CA 95603 530-889-8171 The Green Shop 66420 Mooney Boulevard, Suite 1 Visalia, CA 93277 559-688-4200 The Hydro Source 671 E. Edna Place Covina, CA 91723 877 HYDRO 82; 626-915-3128 The Hydro Shop 3980 Saco Road Bakersfield, CA 661-399-3336
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
The Shop 6542 Front Street, Forestville, CA 95436 707-887-2280 The Urban Farmer Store 653 E. Blithedale Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 94941 415-380-3840 The Urban Farmer Store 2833 Vicente Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-661-2204 The Urban Farmer Store 2121 San Joaquin Street, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-1604 Thrive Hydroponics 70 A West North Street, Healdsburg, CA 95446 707-433-4068 Thunders Hydroponic Center 1729 Yosemite Boulevard, Medesco, CA 95354 TNC Supply 9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763 Upper Lake, CA 95485 707-275-9565 Tower Garden Supply & Organic Nursery 403 W. Olive Avenue, Fresno, CA 93728 559-495-1140 Tradewinds Wholesale Garden Supplies 1235 Striker Avenue #180, Sacramento, CA 95834 888-557-8896 Tulare County Growers Supply 435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A, Farmersville, CA 93223 559-732-8247 Turbo Grow 1889 San Pablo Avenue, Pinole, CA 94564 510-724-1291 Two Chix Garden Supply 1230 Yuba Street, Marysville, CA 95901 530-923-2536 Under The Sun 12638 Foothill Boulevard, Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423 707-998-GROW (4769) Urban Gardens 22516 Ventura Boulevard, Woodland Hills, CA 91364 818-876-0222 Urban Gardens Unlimited 704 Filbert Street, San Francisco, CA 94133 415-421-4769 US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies 1621 South Rose Avenue, Oxnard, CA 93033 805-247-0086 Valley Garden Solutions Inc. 15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104, North Hills, CA 91345 818-336-0041 Valley Hydroponics 6632 N Blackstone Avenue, Unit B Fresno, CA 93710 559-449-0426 Vital Landscaping Inc. 12817 Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-273-3187 Wai Kula Hydrogardens 5297 Linda Vista Road, San Diego, CA 92110 619-299-7299
Weather Top Nursery 44901 Harmon Drive, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-6385 We Grow Hydroponics 3350 East Los Angeles Avenue, Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-624-4566 West Coast Growers Hydroponics 13481 Colifax Highway, Grass Valley, CA 95945 888-924-4769 West Coast Hydroponics, Inc. 27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 949-348-2424 Western Auto 1156 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-1189
COLORADO Bath Nursery & Garden Center 2000 E. Prospect, Fort Collins, CO 80525 970-484-5022 Big Tomato, The 14440 E. 6th Avenue, Aurora, CO 80011 303-364-4769 Big Tomato, The 3000 Main Avenue, Durango, CO 81301 970-375-1238 Boulder County Caregivers PO Box 7406, Golden, CO 80403 303-495-2195 Boulder Hydroponics 1630 N. 63rd Street, #5, Boulder, CO 80301 303-415-0045 BWGS CO 11685 E. 55th Avenue Denver, CO 80239 888-316-1306 Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics 7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120A, Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 303-954-9897 Deep Roots Garden Supply 1790 Airport Road, Unit 1 Breckenridge, CO 80424 970-453-1440 Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center 6810 North Broadway, Unit D Denver, CO 80221 303-650-0091 Desert Bloom Hydroponics 445 Pitkin Avenue, Grand Junction, CO 81501 970-245-6427 Ever Green Hydroponics Inc. 1131 Francis Street, Suite A, Longmont, CO 80501 303-682-6435 Family Hydroponics-Boulder 2125 32nd Street Boulder, co 80301 303-996-6100 Garden Tech 737 Garden of the Gods Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-278-9777 Go Green Hydro 1005 Caprice Drive, Castle Rock, CO 80109 303-688-0599 Greeley Nutrients 700 11th Street Unit 101 Greeley CO 80631 970 673 8302
Greenhouse Tech 917 East Fillmore, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-634-0637 GroWize 3225 S. Wadsworth Boulevard, Lakewood, CO 80227 303-986-2706 Grow Store South, The 5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37, Englewood, CO 80110 303-738-0202 Grow Store, The 8644 W. Colfax Avenue, Lakewood, CO 80215 888-510-0350 GWS Hydroponics 7025 Highway 82 Building 4B, Glenwood Springs, CO 81601 970-384-2040 Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium 34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9, North Edwards, CO 81632 970-569-3139 Hydro Grow Supply 644 Peterson Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80915 719-596-2600 Hydro Planet 711 Washington Avenue, Golden, CO 80401 303-279-6090 Hydro Shack, The 220 Main Street, Suite E Frisco, CO 80443 970-668-0359 Indoor Garden Warehouse 8100 S Akron St., Suite 322, Centennial, CO 80112 720-496-2110 Indoor Paradise Hydroponics 309 S. Summit View, Unit 17, Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462 970-221-3751 J&D Organic Growing Solutions 217 1/2 Clayton Street Brush, CO 80723 970-310-5408 Lyons Indoor Gardening 138 Main Street, Lyons, CO 80540 720-530-3828 Mile High Hydroponics 37 Strong St. Brighton, CO 80601 303 637 0069 Olympic Hydroponics Supply LLC. 1530 S Nevada Avenue, Colorado Springs, CO 80906 719-635-5859 Polar Ray 5171 Eldorado Springs Dr. Boulder, CO 80303 303 494 5773 Rocky Mountain Hydroponics and Organics 15985 S. Golden Road Golden, CO 80401 720-475-1725 Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics 7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3D Denver, CO 80221 303-428-5020 Roll-N-Green Farms Horticultural Supply 25797 Conifer Rd #A-8 Conifer, Co 80433 303-838-5520 The Grow Outlet 4272 Lowell Boulevard Denver, CO 80211 303-586-5543 Way To Grow 3201 E. Mulberry Street, Fort Collins, CO 80524 970-484-4769
Way To Grow 6395 Gunpark Drive, Boulder, CO 80301 303-473-4769
CONNECTICUT Harvest Moon Hydroponics 775 Silver Lane, East Hartford, CT 06118 860-568-4067 LiquidSun® CT 10C South Main Street, East Windsor, CT 06088 860-254-5757 Organix Hydroponics 749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza) Middletown, CT 06457 860-343-1923
FLORIDA 3D Hydroponics and Organics 7139 US Highway #19, New Port Richey, FL 34652 727-847-3491 Absolute Hydroponic Garden Center Inc 1607 Old Daytona Steet Deland, FL 32724 386-734-0696 Advanced Hydro Gardens 4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4, Miami, FL 33014 866-97-HYDRO Atlantic Hydroponics 430 Count Street, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-1535 Best Hydro 4920 Lena Road, Bradenton, FL 34211 941-756-1928 Blossoms Experience, The 7207 NW 54th Street, Miami, FL 33166 866-452-4769 Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies 946 18th Avenue SW, Vero Beach, FL 32962 772-564-8880 East Coast Hydroponics & Organics 461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105 Coca, FL 32922 321-243-6800 Eden Garden Supply 5044 N. Palafox Street, Pensacola, FL 32505 850-439-1299 Esposito Garden Center 2743 Capital Circle NE, Tallahassee, FL 32308 850-386-2114 Falero Hardware & Hydroponics 6758 W. Flager Street, Miami, FL 33144 305-266-8878 Florida Garden Supplies 2692 W 79 Street, Hialeah, FL 33016 1-800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8020 Belvedere Road, Unit 4, West Palm Beach, FL 33411 800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8442 Tradeport Drive, Unit 200, Orlando, FL 32827 800-931-5215 Future Farms Inc., The 14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105 Miami, FL 33186 305-382-2757 Gardener’s Edge Gainesville 5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13, Gainesville, FL 32605 352-375-2769
Gold Coast Hydroponics 1539 SW 21st Avenue, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312 1-800-780-7371 Gold Coast Hydroponics 4241 SW 71st Avenue, Miami, FL 33155 1-800-780-6805 Grace’s Hydro-Organic Garden Center 8877 North 56th Street Tampa, FL 33617 813-514-9376 Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies 13482 North Cleveland Avenue, Fort Meyers, FL 33903 239-997-4769 GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc. 5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104 Davie, FL 33314 954-316-8815 Green Winters Inc. 147 Tomoka Avenue, Ormond Beach, FL 32174 386-235-8730 Grower's Choice & Hydroponics 11855 North Main Street, Jackonsonville, FL 32218 904-683-4517 Growing Garden Inc., The 12811 SW 42nd Street, Miami, FL 33175 305-559-0309 GrowSmart Indoor Garden Centers 14587 Southern Boulevard, Loxahatchee, FL 33470 561-429-3527 Harvest Time Hydroponics 14414 N. Florida Avenue, Tampa, FL 33613 813-264-7101 Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc. 196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F, Pensacola, FL 32534 850-912-4545 High Tech Garden Supply 2975 West New Haven Avenue, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-0853 Hydro For Less 9545 Southwest 72nd Street, Miami, FL 33173 305-598-4311 Hydroponics International Inc. 7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 904-693-6554 Hydroponics of Tampa 120 W. Bougain Villea, Tampa, FL 33612 813-333-6828 Hydro Terra Corp. 924 North Federal Highway, Hollywood, FL 33020 954-920-0889 Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc. 968 N. Congress Avenue, West Palm Beach, FL 33409 561-296-6161 Simply Hydroponics & Organics 7949 Ulmerton Road, Largo, FL 33773 727-531-5355 Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North) 3642 South Suncoast Boulevard, Homosassa, FL 34448 352-628-2655 Stoney Hydro @ Schiro's Barn n Garden Supplies 7812 Causeway Boulevard, Tampa, FL 33619 813-626-0902 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 1420 East Altomonte Drive, Altamonte Spring, FL 32701 407-830-GROW
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
179
MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 5561 S. Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando, FL 32809 407-859-7728 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 6100 Hanging Moss Road, Suite 500, Orlando, FL 32807 888-833-GROW Urban Organics & Hydroponics 5325 Fairmont Street, Jacksonville, FL 32207 904-398-8012 VitaOrganix 7921 NW 67th St Miami, FL 33166 786 845 8633 Worm’s Way Florida 4412 North 56th Street, Tampa, FL 33610 800-283-9676; 813-621-1792
GEORGIA Atlantis Hydroponics 1422 Woodmont Lane, #4, Atlanta, GA 30318 404-367-0052 Atlantis Hydroponics 2561 West Point Avenue, College Park, GA 30337 678-510-0032 Flora Hydroponics Inc. 2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600 Athens, GA 30607 866-404-0551 Savannah Hydroponics & Organics 4107 Eighth Street, Suite C Garden City, GA 31408 912-349-4030
HAWAII Aqua Plant Hawaii / Kahala Hydroponics 4224 Wailae, Suite 1A, Honolulu, HI 96816 808-735-8665 Eco-Island Supply 810 Haiku Road, #394 Haiku, HI 96708 808-575-9171 Green Hands of Aloha 1713 Mary Street, Honolulu, HI 96819 808-847-4263 Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply 300 Hukilike Street, #2M, Kahalui, HI 96732 808-871-6393 Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer 15-2754 Old Government Road, Pahoa, HI 96778 808-965-9955
IDAHO Boise Hydroponics 614 North Orchard Street, Boise, ID 83706 208-344-3053 Greenthumb Greenhouses 5895 Ensign Avenue, Boise, ID 83714
ILLINOIS Aerostar Global 824 South Kay Avenue, Addison, IL 60101 Alternative Garden Supply 615 Industrial Drive, Unit A Cary, IL 60013 800-444-2837 Big Grow Hydroponics 9225 Trinity Drive, Lake In The Hills, IL 60156 847-854-4450
180
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2010
Brew and Grow 359 W. Irving Park Road Unit E, Roselle, IL 60172 630-894-4885 Brew and Grow 3625 N. Kedzi Avenue, Chicago, IL 60618 773-463-7430 Brew and Grow 3224 South Alpine Road, Rockford, IL 61109 815-874-5700 Brew and Grow 2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60440 630-771-0555 Brew and Grow 181 Crossroads Parkway, Bolingbrook, IL 60194 847-885-8282 Fertile Ground 463 West MacArthur Drive, Cottage Hills, IL 62018 618-259-5500 Goldman's Grow Shop 910 Greenwood Road, Glenview, IL 60025 847-657-7250 Green Fields 8137 N. Milwaukee, Niles, IL 60714 847-965-5056 Grow Big Hydroponics 7817 B North 2nd Street, Manchesney Park, IL 61115 815-637-4769 Hydrocork 20647 Renwick Road, Crest Hill, IL 60435 815-838-0100 Kreation’s Indoor Gardening Center 3427 Old Chatman Road, Springfield, IL 62704 217-341-0821 Let it Grow - Carbondale West Main Street, Carbondale, IL 62908 573-450-5401 Prairie House Garden Center 15151 South Harlem Avenue, Orland, IL 60462 708-687-3131 Water Works Indoor Gardening 1900 South Dirksen Parkway, Springfield, IL 62703 217-553-6929
INDIANA BWGS 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-316-1306 Five Point Gardens 56555 Oak Road, South Bend, IN 46619 574-287-9232 Frogs Lilly Pad, The 706 Citation Road, Carmel, IN 46032 317-846-4610 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 4200 S. East Street, Indianapolis, IN 46227 317-780-8070 Hops & Harvest 4616 E. DuPont Road, Suite Q, Fort Wayne, IN 46825 260-918-3035
Magic Bulb Garden Center 6229 Allisonville Road, Indianapolis, IN 46220 317-202-2852 Sunleaves Garden Products 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 888-464-9676 Worm’s Way Indiana 7850 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-598-8158
KANSAS Green Circle Hydroponics 6890 W. 105th Street, Overland Park, KS 66212 913-642-3888
KENTUCKY Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Shop, The of Lexington 2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130, Lexington, KY 40509 859-268-0779 Louisville Hydroponics 3471 Taylor Boulevard, Louisville, KY 40215 502-366-4000 New Earth Garden Center 9810 Taylorsville Road, Louisville, KY 40299 800-462-5953 Worm’s Way Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088
LOUISIANA Geaux Hydroponics! 2126 O’Neal Lane, Baton Rouge, LA 70816 225-751-4769 Laughing Buddha Nursery 4516 Clearview Parkway, Metairie, LA 70006 504-887-4336 Ourcrazydeals Hydroponics 201 Angus Drive, Yungsville, LA 70592 337-303-6146 Urban Organics 285 St. Claude Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70117 504-352-4709
MAINE Green Thumb Indoor Gardening 19 Stage Road, St. Albans, ME 04971 207-938-5909 Greenlife Garden Supply 611 US Rt. 1 York, ME 03909 978 262 9966 Urban Garden Center 235 Lewiston Road, Toposhan, ME 04086 207-373-0990
MARYLAND East Coast Organics 2800 Sisson Street, Baltimore, MD 21211 Healthy Gardens and Supply 5001-F Harford Road, Baltimore, MD 21214 443-708-5144
Maryland Hydroponics Inc. 10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723 301-490-9236 Maryland Hydroponics Inc. 12130 Nebel Street, Rockville, MD 20852 240-551-4625 Meadowview Feed & Garden Center 1202 Meadowview Road, Pasadena, MD 21122 443-817-0018 Purple Mountain Organics 100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue, Takoma Park, MD 20912 877-538-9901
MASSACHUSETTS Greenlife Garden Supply 481 Boston Road, Unit 4, Billerica, MA 01821 978-262-9966 Green Path Garden Supply 276 West Main Street, Northborough, MA 01532 508-393-4181 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 29 Washington Street, Route 1 Foxboro, MA 02035 800-660-6977 LiquidSun® MA 8 Lynwood Avenue, Holyoke, MA 01040 413-539-6875 New England Hydroponics 15 D Coolege Hwy. (Rt. 10), Southampton, MA 01073 888-529-9025 Worm’s Way Massachusetts 121 Worc-Providence Turnpike, Sutton, MA 01590 800-284-9676
MICHIGAN BIg Creek Hydroponics 555 Old Little Lake Road, Marquette, MI 49855 906-249-5297 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 23529 Little Mack Avenue, St. Clair, MI 48080 586-775-9485 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 6540 Allen Road, Allen Park, MI 48101 313-383-1766 Cultivation Station 3 Inc. 46912 Gratiot, Chesterfield, MI 48051 586-949-7453 Flo-N-Grow. 214 N. 2nd Street, Niles, MI 49120 269-683-1877 Gro Blue Indoor Gardening Supplies 270 W. Liberty Street, Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-913-2750 Grow Store, The 721 W. Blue Star Drive, Traverse City, MI 49684 231-421-5191 Growco Garden Supply 1042 Michigan Street, NE, Grand Rapids, MI 49503 877-939-6900 Growing Consultant 2260 Apple Avenue, Muskegon, MI 49442 231-773-5600 Holland Hydroponic Outlet 587-40 East 8th Street Holland, MI 49423 616-298-7395
Home Grown Hydroponics 8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C, Saginaw MI 48609 989-781-1930 Homelight Gardens 3471 S. Huron Road, Bay City, MI 48706 989-922-0088 Horizen Hydroponics 1614 Leonard Street, NW, Grand Rapids, MI 49504 866-791-1664 Horizen Hydroponics 4646 W. Main Street, Kalamazoo, MI 49006 269-567-3333 HotHydro® 5245 Jackson Road, Suite F Ann Arbor, MI 48103 734-761-5040; 877-893-0716 Hydroharrys.com 24500 Dequindre, Warren, MI 48091 800-461-8819 Hydro Heaven 73647 W 8th Mile Road, Detroit, MI 48235 313-861-0333; 877-823-2076 Hydro Grow, The 8210 Telegraph Road, Taylor, MI 48180 313-633-0641 Hydrospot 34236 Michigan Avenue, Wayne, MI 48184 734-722-1285 Indoor Garden Superstore 2570 Dixie Highway, Waterford Twp., MI 48328 248-673-2200; 877 22 HYDRO J&L Growco 206 S. Michigan Avenue, Big Rapids, MI 49307 231-796-1528 Kalamazoo Indoor Garden 450 W. Maple, Kalamazoo, MI 49001 269-344-2550 Light Green Water 3661 Highland Road, Waterford, MI 48329 248-681-0001 Stealth Hydro 15 E. Cross Street, Ypsilanti, MI 48198 866-998-1916 Sunnyside Hydroponics 24930 Gratiot Avenue, Eastpoint, MI 48021 586-777-2528 Sunshine Supply Co. 5800 East Pickard Street, Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858 989-775-3700 Superior Growers Supply 19582 Middlebelt Road, Livonia, MI 48152 248-473-0450 Superior Growers Supply 4870 Dawn Avenue, East Lansing, MI 48823 517-332-2663 Urban Gardening Center, The 2520 22nd Street, Detroit, MI 48216 313-898-0200 Van Hydro 7480 N State, Davison, MI 48423 810-653-8267 Wild Child 7740 M 72 East, Traverse City, MI 49690 866-711-GROW
MINNESOTA American Garden Supply 601-6th Avenue, North, Princeton, MN 55371 763-631-0543 Brew and Grow 8179 University Avenue, Fridley, MN 55432 612-780-8191 Duluth Hydroponics 26 W 1st Street Duluth, MN 55802 218-341-7253 Eco Garden Supply 800 Transfer Door 25 in rear St. Paul, MN 55114 651-647-1896 Eden Indoor Organic Gardens 831 Highway 75 North Moorhead, MN 56560 218-477-EDEN (3336) Indoor Gardening 10 NE 3rd Street, Faribault, MN 55021 507-209-1546 Interior Gardens 115 -1620 Central Avenue NE, Minneapolis, MN 55413 800-498-4178; 612-870-9077 Midwest Hydroponics 3440 Belt Line Boulevard, Suite A, Minneapolis, MN 55416 888-449-2739 Still-H2O Inc. 14375 North 60th Street, Stillwater, MN 55082 651-351-2822
MISSISSIPPI Indoor Garden Shop LLC 1310 Bienville Boulevard, Ocean Springs, MS 39564 228-875-3725
MISSOURI Divine Hydroponics 301 North Bishop Avenue, Rolla, MO 65401 573-426-2348 Grow Your Own Hydroponics 3617 Saint John Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64123 816-241-2122 Green Circle Hydroponics 12 East Missouri, Kansas City, MO 64106 816-421-1840 Green Thumb Organics 249 Mid Rivers Mall Drive, St. Peters, MO 63376 636-397-4769 (GROW) Heartland Hydrogardens 705 Vandiver Drive, Suite G Columbia, MO 65202 HYDROGARDENS 573-474-4769 Let It Grow - Springfield 2519 E. Kearney Street, Springfield, MO 65803 417-862-GROW Let It Grow - Girardeau 879 S. Kings Highway, Cape Girardeau, MO 63703 573-803-0628 U-Grow 1724 North, 13th Street, St. Louis, MO 63106 314-452-6368 Worm’s Way Missouri 1225 North Warson Road, St. Louis, MO 63132 800-285-9676
MONTANA Alpengrow Nursery Supplies 238 Highway 93 S., Eureka, MT 59917 406-882-4496
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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
Bizzy Beez LLP 5875 Highway 93 S, Whitefish, MT 59937 406-863-9937 Big Sky Garden Supply 528 West Idaho, Kallispell, MT 59901 406-755-1465 Cornucopia Grow Your Own 127 Stoner Creek Rd., Lakeside, MT 59922 406-709-1076 Dr. Green Thumbs 1106 West Park, Livingston, MO 59047 406-222-7440 Heightened Harvests 2018 Main Street #4, Billings, MT 59105 406-252-4311
NEBRASKA Advanced Hydro-Ponics 10711 Mockingbird Drive, Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q) 402-991-6630 Paradigm Gardens 8949 J Street, Suite 5, Omaha, NE 68127 402-339-4949 Patio-Ponics 3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4 Lincoln, NE 68504 402-466-9218
NEVADA AAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter 2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21, Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-450-4769 Advanced Gardens Hydroponics 3111 South Valley View, (on Desert Inn West of Valley View) Suite V103 Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-257-4769 All American Hydroponics 2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8, Las Vegas, NV 89120 702-894-9888 Anything Grows 190 West Moana Lane, Reno, NV 89509 775-828-1460 Carson Valley Hydroponics 2520 Empire Ranch Road, Carson City, NV 89701 775-884-4769 Lorraine Ink 290 Spear Court, Fernley, NV 89408 775-575-7757 Nevada Hydroponics 4700 B Maryland, Suite 1, Las Vegas, NV 89119 702-798-2852
NEW HAMPSHIRE Hydro World 17 White Birch Lane, Lincoln, NH 03251 603-745-3030
NEW JERSEY 77HYDRO 37 Fairfield Place, West Caldwell, NJ 07006 877-774-9376 Claraqua 4 Redwood Court, West Windsor, NJ 08550
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East Coast Horticultural Supply 1652 Hurffville Road, Swewell, NJ 08080 856-228-5290 Garden State Hydroponics 511 Avenel Street, Avenel, NJ 07001 888-300-8711 Green Touch 2 Hydroponics Inc. 888 Route 33, Unit 1, Hamilton, NJ 08619 HYDROPONIC S 609-570-8829
greentouch2 INC .
NEW MEXICO AHL Year Round Garden Supply 1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 505-255-3677 AHL Year Round Garden Supply 9421 Coors Blvd. NW Suite K, Albuquerque, NM 87114 505-899-0592 All Seasons Gardening 3600 Osuna Road, Suite 406 Alburquerque, NM 87109 505-508-4292 All Seasons Gardening 1228 Parkway, Suite E Sante Fe, NM 87507 505-438-GROW Common Shaman 1319 San Mateo N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87110 505-255-6463
NEW YORK Bronx Hydro & Garden 39 Bruckner Boulevard, Bronx, NY 10454 718-993-3787 Brooklyn Farms 521 Hicks Street Brooklyn, NY 11231 347-725-3491 California Hydroponics 27 Corporate Circle, East Syracuse, NY 13057 315-432-9387 East Coast Hydroponics 14649 Horace Harding Exp, Flushing, NY 11367 718-762-8880 Environmental Gardens 8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310 Peekskills, NY 10566 800-254-0507; 914-736-6676 FutureGarden Inc. 59 Central Avenue, Farmingdale, NY 11735 516-420-0884 Greentree Nursery 308 Elmira Road, Ithaca, NY 14850 607-272-3666 Grow Room, The 8 Bridge Street, Nyack, NY 10960 800-449-9630 Harvest Moon Hydroponics Henrietta Townline Plaza, 3047 West Henrietta Road, Rochester, NY 14623 716-865-7353 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 340 West at 59, Central Nyack, NY 10960 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 147 Fourth Street, Troy, NY 10960
Healthy Harvest Organics and Hydro 163 Broadway, Fort Edwart, NY 12828 518-480-4698 Hudson Valley Hydroponics 217 Route 32 North, New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-3633 Hydro Garden Center 1069B Lyell Avenue, Rochester, NY 14606 1-800-277-1322 Hydroponics of Buffalo 1497 Hertel Avenue, Buffalo, NY 14216 716-838-3545 Hydroponics Shops of America 2606 Erie Boulevard, Syracuse, NY 13224 315-251-2516 Indoor Outdoor Gardener 8223 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11209 718-836-2402 KG Garden Supply 1327 Floyd Avenue, Rome, NY 13440 1-877-KG-HYDRO Saratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply 19 Front Street, Ballston Spa, NY 12020 518-885-2005; 800-850-4769 Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics 2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13, Niagara Falls, NY 14304 888-GROWBOX Sunset Hydroponics & Home Brewing 1590 West Ridge Road, Rochester, NY 14615 866-395-9204
NORTH CAROLINA Be Well Hydroponics & Urban Gardening 4732 Monroe Road, Charlotte, NC 28205 704-344-8010 BWGS East 4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400 Charlotte, NC 28214 800-316-1306 Fifth Season Gardening Company 21 B Westside Dr. Asheville NC 28806 828-225-5007 Fifth Season Gardening Company 45 Banks Avenue, Asheville, NC 28801 828-253-4112 Fifth Season Gardening Company 106 South Greensboro Street, Carrboro, NC 27510 919-932-7600 Fifth Season Gardening Company 1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue, Greensboro, NC 27408 336-271-3373 Fifth Season Gardening Company 5619-A Hillsborough Street, Raleigh, NC 27606 919-852-4747 Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center 4521 Cumberland Road, Fayetteville, NC 28306 910-423-FLOW (3569) High Tech Garden Supply 2712 B Freedom Drive Charlotte, NC 28208 704-697-0911 New Age Gardens 2236A US Highway 70, Swannanoa, NC 28778 828-299-9989
Progressive Gardens 6005 Oleander Drive, Wilmington, NC 28403 910-395-1156 The Family Tree Nursery & Garden Center 6033 Ocean Highway E.,(on mile marker 35) Winnabow, OH 28479 910-253-9200
OHIO Advanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center 5204 Darrow Road, Hudson, OH 44236 234-380-1287 Akron Garden Center 434 W Wilbeth Road, Akron, OH 44314 330-724-2700 Cleveland Garden Center Inc. 727 East 185th Street, Cleveland, OH 44119 216-481-7868 CropKing 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Carefree Garden Center 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Dayton Hydroponics 3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449 937-859-3999 Eastside Hydroponics 550 Ohio Pike Cincinnati, OH 45255 513-528-GROW Garden Indoors of Ohio 4720 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 800-833-6868 Greenleaf Hydroponics 1805 Elm Road, Warren, OH 44483 330-372-1039 Grow Wizard, The 5700 Denison Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44102 216-961-2500 Harvest Moon 9215 Market Street, Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452 800-776-8399 Herb-N-Garden Center 14901 Puritas Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44135 216-252-2001 Hydro Gardens and Lights 1144 N Memorial Drive Lancaster, OH 43130 705-65 Hydro Indoor Garden Worx 906 Blue Avenue, Zanesville, OH 43701 866-900-9679 Indoor Gardens 1222 Hill Road, North, Pickerington, OH 43147 614-866-6065 Kissed by the Sun Hydroponic 10740 Reading Road, Cincinnati, OH 45241 513-769-0159 Magic Home Gardens 209 Cemetery Road, Canal Winchester, OH 43110 614-837-2440 Magic Home Garden 4538 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 614-263-2440 Summit Hydroponics 1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114 330-753-5222
Sweet Greens 5540 Brecksville Road Independence, OH 44131 800-421-7084 Toledo Hydroponics Ltd. 855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2 Toledo, OH 43615 1-877-893-0716 Trinity Hydro Organics 435 Woodman Drive Riverside, OH 45431 937-252-GROW Urban Gardens 671 E. Center Street Marion, OH 43302 740-375-2800
OKLAHOMA AAAAHA! Hydroponics Unlimited P.O. Box 74, Oakhurst, OK 74050 Organics OKC Garden Supply 3620 N Pennsylvania Avenue, Oklahoma City, OK 73118 405-528-GROW Tulsa County Hydro-Organics 1928 W. Albany, Broken Arrow, OK 74012 918-259-HYDRO Urban Garden 3141 E. 15th Street, Tulsa, OK 74104 918-289-0018
OREGON American Agriculture 9220 Southeast Stark Street, Portland, OR 97216 800-433-6805 Anthony’s Garden & Light Supply 93779 B Troy Lane, Coos Bay, OR 97420 541-266-8822 Aqua Serene 2836 W. 11th Avenue, Eugene, OR 97402 541-302-9073 Aqua Serene 465 Applegate Way, Ashland, OR 97520 541-482-7600 Aurora Innovations PO Box 22041, Eugene, OR 97402 866-376-8578 Basin Indoor Gardening 1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601 541-273-2023 B.I.G.S. 155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401, Bend, OR 97702 541-385-5222 BIGS Warehouse 2606 SW 4th Street, Unit B Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-8886 Cascade Horticulture 39570 Pioneer Boulevard, Sandy, OR 97055 503-668-8242 Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics 5490 SW Philomath Boulevard, Corvallis, OR 97333 541-738-2820 Everybody’s Garden Center 2701 SE 14th Avenue, Portland, OR 97202 800-669-5483 Forever Green Organic Hydro Gardens 7530 Crater Lake Highway, White City, OR 97503 541-826-2946 Garden Spout, The 4532 South East 63rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97206 503-788-4769
Gorge Garden Center 1203 12th Street Suite H, Hood River, OR 97031 541-386-GROW Gorilla Garden Supply 1810 Virginia Avenue, North Bend, OR 97459 Garden Supplies 541-756-5005 Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply 2021 West Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-779-8600 Grow America Garden Supply LLC 11511 SW Pacific Highway, Tigard, OR 97223 503-841-6868 Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics) 817 W. 2nd Street, Medford, OR 97501 H2organic LCC 620 NE 3rd Street, McMinnville, OR 97128 503-434-6107 Herb N’ Jungle Hydroponics 930 SE Textron Drive, Bend, OR 97702 541-382-4010 Homegrown Garden Supply 7112 NE Gilsan Street, Portland, OR 97213 877-EZ2-GROW In and Out Gardens 1574 Skypark Drive Medford, OR 97501 541-858-3333 Indoor Garden Center 1697 SE 25th Street, Salem, OR 97302 503-566-7888 Indoor Garden Depot 15828 SE McGloughlin Boulevard, Milwaukie, OR 97267 503-786-2445 Indoor Garden Supply 536 SW 6th Street (rear alley), Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-7750 Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center 909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217 503-546-3185 J-N-B Hydro 2 Go 155 West Central Avenue, Sutherlin, OR 97479 541-459-9211 Ladybug Indoor Gardens 3960 W. Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-618-4459 Lights Distributing 9843 SW 55th Avenue, Portland, OR 97219 Liquid Sun 1845 Southwest Highway 101, Lincoln City, OR 97367 541-994-7070 Moonshine Park Farm 135 South East 62nd, Unit F South Beach, OR 97366 541-444-2298 Northern Light and Garden Beaverton 9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005 503-297-7331 Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass 1203 Rogue River Highway, Grants Pass, OR 97527 541-474-1700 Northern Light and Garden Salem 1915 Lancester Drive, Salem, OR 97305 503-364-4769 Oregon Rainforest Co. 19949 E. Burnside Street, Gresham, OR 97233 503-465-9909
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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
Paradise Supply Inc. 1409 N. Highway 99, Ashland, OR 97520 541-552-1037 Paradise Supply LLC 560 NE. "F" Street, Unit C, Grand Pass, OR 97526 541-955-7293 Rain or Shine 13126 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230 503-255-1981 Roots Garden Supply 5426 North Gay Avenue, Portland, OR 97217 503-285-4768 Roseburg Hydroponics 853 SE Stephens Street, Roseburg, OR 97470 541-229-1420 SunInside Gardening Co. 665 Conger, Unit F, Eugene, OR 97402 541-686-9966 The Good Earth Organics 30088 Redwood Highway, Cave Junction, OR 97523 541-592-4496 Urban Flora 2865 South East, Portland, OR 97214 503-236-3344 Vital Organix 932-B SE “M” Street Grants Pass, OR 97526 541-226-9283 Westcoast Organic and Hydroponic Supply 12410 SE 282nd Avenue, Unit C Boring, OR 97009 503-766-4106 Wizard's Garden, LLC 621 Spruce Street, Unit C, Myrtle Point, OR 97458 541-572-2333
PENNSYLVANIA 422 GROW 1775 North Main Street Extension Butler, PA 16001-1327 724-561-3777 Full Bloom Hydroponics 84 South 24th Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15203 888-872-3602 Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania 208 Route 13, Bristol, PA 19007 800-227-4567 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 1239 South Airport Road, Allentown, PA 18103 610-432-4949 Healthy Gardens and Supply 1012 Lincoln Avenue, Prospect Park, PA 19076 866-32-HYDRO High Tech Garden Supply 20232 Route 19, Unit 6, Cranberry Twp., PA 16066 724-473-1113 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 2008 Smallman Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15222 412-232-7030 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 830 Route 119, Greensburg, PA 15601 724-836-1118 Hydro Ponics of Harrisburg 310 South 10th Street, Lemoyne, PA 17043 877-684-3808
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PA Hydroponics & Home Gardening Supply 20 Quaker Church Road, York Springs, PA 17372 717-528-4175 Pocono Hydroponic Solutions 25 Route 611 Bartonsville, PA 18321 Tel: 570-730-4544 RH Distribution POB 1417 Lansdale, PA 19446 888-545-8112
RHODE ISLAND Good To Grow 34 Nooseneck Hill Road, West Greenwich, RI 02817 401-392-3100 Hydro-Earth 1243 Mineral Springs Avenue, North Providence, RI 02904 401-305-5520 LiquidSun® RI 1179 Central Avenue, Pawtucket, MA 02861 401-722-2724 Oakworld Garden Center 39 West Street, Barrington, RI 02806 401-245-5705 Organically Grown 768 Atwood Ave Cranston, RI 02920 401-944-0549 Solar Seed Hydroponics, Inc. 2406 Putman Pike, Chepachet, RI 02814 401-710-9010
SOUTH CAROLINA 247 Garden Supply 535 D Clemson Road, Columbia, SC 29229 803-788-4445 All Good Hydroponics & Gardening 6729 Two Notch Road, Columbia, SC 29223 803-708-4819 GreenSpirit Hydrogarden 1864 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29405 843-225-1GRO; Green Thumb Unique Gardening & More 1230 Rutherford Road, Greenville, SC 29609 864-271-8830
SOUTH DAKOTA Green Earth Products Inc. 5700 Highway 79 S.,Unit 1, Rapid City, SD 57702 605-342-1307
TENNESSEE Advanced Hydroponic Garden 783 French Mill Road, Dandridge, TN 37725 800-521-1643 Advanced Hydroponic Garden 6912 Clinton Highway, Knoxville, TN 37921 866-938-3318 All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co. 924 8th Avenue, South, Nashville, TN 37203 800-790-2188 Atlantis Hydroponics 1800 Rossville Avenue, #3, Chattanooga, TN 37408 423-752-5400
National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 126 Belinda Parkway, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122 888-265-9005 Perpetual Harvest 75 Riverport Drive, Jackson, TN 38301 877-422-3391 Sun City Hydroponics 2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104, Memphis, TN 38133 901-372-8100 Worm’s Way Tennessee 901 Main Street, Nashville, TN 37072 800-397-4153
TEXAS Abundant Harvest Hydroponics & Organics 3101 Avenue E East, Arlington Road, TX 76011 817-649-0100 Airline Hydroponics P.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363, Houston, TX 77098 713-942-0484 Botani Hydroponics & Organics 7730 Highway 6 South Houston, TX 77083 281-575-1999 Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics 4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310, Austin, TX 78745 512-444-2100 Earth Organics 1360 Lee Trevino Drive,Suite 105 El Paso, TX 79936 915-591-9500 Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies 5302 Slide Road Unit B, Lubbock, TX 79414 806-793-2901 GreenMaker Nursery 3030 Northwest Loop, Stephenville, TX 76401 254-965-7273 GroGreen Hydroponics 4015 Main Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-370-9984 Happy Harvest Hydroponics & Organic 1500 Crescent Drive, Suite 202 Carrollton, TX 75006 972-466-1300 Houston Discount Hydroponics 9384 Richmond Avenue, Houston, TX 77063 713-464-9406 Hydro Mart 3841 Main Street, Rowlett, TX 75088 972-475-6114 Hydroponic Nation 9700 Almeda Genoa Road, Suite 108, Houston, TX 77075 281-501-9636 Innergrow Hydroponics 24451 Interstate Highway 20, Wills Point, TX 75169 866-475-4769 Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies) 13628 Neutron Road, Dallas, TX 75244 (866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555
Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics 1302 Motor Circle, Dallas, TX 75207 214-634-9376
I Love Hydroponics 368 Newtown Road, #105, Virginia Beach, VA 23462 757-490-5425
Sol Organics & Hydroponics 1634 Babcock Road, San Antonio, TX 78229 210-366-9082
Inside-Out Garden Supply 6517 Backlick Road, Springfield, VA 22150 703-451-3259
Texas Growers Supply 5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602, Humble, TX 77396 281-441-3739
WASHINGTON
Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin) 5126 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756 512-459-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin) 2125-A Goodrich Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-440-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas) 3400 Elm Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-744-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston) 7730 A Park Place Boulevard, Houston, TX 77087 713-641-4769 Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply 6125 West Sam Houston Parkway, North Suite 206 Houston, TX 77041 713-856-8425
UTAH Salt Lake Plant & Hydro 60 West 3300 S. #6, South Salt Lake, UT 84115 801-488-3200
VERMONT Green Thumb Gardening P.O. Box 235, Route 15, Underhill, VT 5489 800-564-9376 Greenthumb - Vermont 394 Route 15, Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323 LiquidSun® VT 1 Bellows Falls Road, (Route 5 North) Putney, VT 05158 802-387-1100 Peak Hydroponic Garden Supplies 20 School Street, Plainfield, VT 05667 802-454-8000
VIRGINIA Blue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co. 5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11 Roanoke VA 24012 540-265-2483
509 Grow 2718 N Division Spokane, WA 99207 509-327-GROW(4769) Aqua Serene 3839 Stone Way North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-GROW (4769) Eco Enterprises 1240 NE 175th Street, #B Shoreline, WA 98155 800-426-6937 Garden Smart 500 Bond Drive, Castlerock, WA 98611 360-274-7960 Green Gardens Distributing 12738 Bel-Red Road, Bellevue, WA 98005 425-454-5731 Hydro-Tech 2121 Aurora Avenue, North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-2202 Indoor Garden Depot 6400 NE Highway 99, Suite H, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Indoor Garden Depot 1401 S. 324th Street, Federal Way, WA 98003 253-874-1112 Indoor Garden & Lighting 3839 6th Avenue, Tacoma, WA 98406 253-761-7478 Indoor Garden & Lighting 23303 Highway 99, Suite A, Edmonds, WA 98026 425-673-2755 Indoor Garden & Lighting 714 South Central Avenue, Kent, WA 98032 253-373-9060 Indoor Garden Supply LLC 1950b Belmont Loop, Woodland, WA 98674 360-841-8055 InDoor Gardening 1158 Commerce Longview WA, 98632 360-353-3851
Clean & Green Technologies 196 Corning Drive, Christiansburg, VA 24073 866-694-1628
Island Hydroponic & Supplies 1515 5th Street #B, Marysville, WA 98271 425-299-5855
Fifth Season Gardening Company 900 Preston Ave. Charlottesville VA 22903 434-293-2332
Kent Garden Supplies Ltd. 18817 East Valley Highway, Kent, WA 98032 425-251-9299
Hydroponics & Growlights 13400 Occoquan Road, Woodbridge, VA 22191 703-490-0700
Kitsap Garden & Lighting 2130 6th Street, Bremerton, WA 98312 360-377-1277
I Love Hydroponics 612 N. Sheppard Street, Richmond, VA 23221 804-377-3020
Linda’s Gardening & Hydroponics 11522 Canyon Road East, Puyallup, WA 98373 253-531-9641
Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics 5087 Lincoln Road, Blaine, WA 98230 M & R Lighting 17238 Memorial Drive, Mt. Vernon, WA 98273 360-848-1080 M & R Lighting Unit C 22914 Highway 410, Buckley, WA 98390 253-891-4190 Mike's Indoor Garden Supply 6121 172nd Street NE #A, Arlington, WA 98223 425-346-6481 National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply 5408 NE 88th Street, Building A, Vancouver, WA 98665 888-478-6544 Northern Lights Gardening 4159 Hannegan Road, Bellingham, WA 98225 360-715-8585 Northwest Horticulture Supply 161 Hooker Road, #1, Sequim, WA 98057 360-582-0702 Renton Indoor Garden Center 207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A, Renton, WA 98055 425-917-9000 River City Hydroponics 1514 East Francis Avenue, Spokane, WA 99208 509-464-0246 Sodo Hydro 1727 1st Ave. South, Seattle, WA 98134 888-904-9376 Solar Shop 306 West 4th Street, Tonasket, WA 98855 509-486-4508 Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply 4823 East Sprague Avenue E., Spokane Valley, WA 99212 509-534-4055
WISCONSIN Aric's Indoor Garden Supply 1104 West Wisconsin Avenue, Appleton, WI 54914 920-574-3258 Brew and Grow 285 N. Janacek Road, Brookfield, WI 53045 262-789-0555 Brew and Grow 3317 Agriculture Drive, Madison, WI 53716 608-226-8910 Grow BIG Hydroponics 954 S. Westland, Appleton, WI 54914 920-749-4769 Paradigm Gardens 4539 Helgesen Drive, Madison, WI 53718 608-241-3800
PUERTO RICO Tecno-Hydro Ave Campo Rico GJ17, Carolina, PR 00982 787-752-8252
MY WE THANK ALL OF OUR DEDICATED RETAILERS FOR OFFERING MAXIMUM YIELD TO THEIR CUSTOMERS.
ARE YOU CURRENTLY DISTRIBUTING MAXIMUM YIELD FROM YOUR RETAIL STORE? If so, pass along your contact information to us here at the magazine care of ilona@maximumyield.com and we will add your store’s name, address and telephone number to our distributor listing in an upcoming issue.
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