Maximum Yield USA - December 2010

USA

A SOLID INVESTMENT Gourmet Hydroponic Lettuce Garden

FREE The LazY Grower’s Guide to hvac

Raising the green roof New York , OrlaNDO AND bEYOND

www.maximumyield.com

2011

Indoor gardenING expo Denver

Colorado, USA March 31- April 3

SAN FRancisco California, USA July 16-17

long beach california, usa october 22-23

indoorgardeningexpo.com

FEATURES 46

46

CONTENTS December 2010

Hydroponic Starts: Starting Plants for Hydroponic Systems – Part 2

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

58

58

Plant Solutions: How to Deal With Yellowing Leaves

66

The Ins and Outs of HVAC

78

Greenhouse Construction – Part 1: Basic Design and Flooring

94

Life and the Sea: Sea Solids in Agriculture – Part 2

by Matt LeBannister

by Lee McCall

by Philip McIntosh

by Dr. Maynard Murray

106

A Solid Investment: Gourmet Hydroponics Lettuce Garden

114

Fertilizer or Additives...or Both? Part 1

128

Plant Potential: Maximum Growth With Foliar Feeding

by Casey Jones Fraser

by William Texier

by Craig Gribble

66

142

T5s: Seeing the Light

148

For Peat’s Sake: The Peat Problem and Alternatives

by Jack Van Camp

by Michael Bloch

142

DEPARTMENTS 10 12 14 20 22 32

From the Editor Letters to the Editor MaximumYield.com Simon Says MAX Facts Product Spotlight

76 90 104 124 126 136

Avant-Gardening Beginner’s Corner Green Thumb Gardening You Tell Us Tips & Tricks

146 152 156 157 158

Talking Shop Max Mart Coming up in January Do You Know?

Distributors

Growing for Health

Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

9

FROM THE editor

jessica raymond

Welcome to our special holiday edition of Maximum Yield USA, which is overflowing with instructions on designing a home-style gourmet lettuce garden (complete with a shopping list); the benefits of a sealed grow room; an introduction to the various additives available on the market; and so much more. With 18 articles and features, you are sure to find some good tips and information on how to improve your grow. There is still time to put some of the featured products on your Christmas Wish List so be sure to check out the new and innovative products from the industry’s best starting on page 32.

We are thrilled to announce the exciting news, to those who may not have already heard, that the 2011 Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expo tour dates have been finalized. We’re coming to a city near you: Colorado (March 31 to April 3, 2011), San Francisco (July 16 to 17, 2011) and Long Beach (October 22 to 23, 2011). Mark your calendar now so you don’t miss a single event. More details, hotel specials, seminar listings and more will be updated regularly at www.indoorgardenexpo.com Enjoy this edition of Maximum Yield and have a safe and happy holiday with your friends and family.You are going to love what we have in store for you in 2011!

Jessica Raymond, Editor editor@maximumyield.com

contributors William Texier started hydroponics in 1985, doing research and development for General Hydroponics in California.

In 1995, he and his wife Noucetta Kehdi created General Hydroponics Europe.

William is best known for coining the term bioponics, or organic hydroponics.

William has 25+ years of hydroponics experience and is considered a hydroponics expert worldwide.

Lee McCall graduated from

Johnson and Wales University with a concentration in Culinary Arts.

Culinary school opened the door to research and work with hydroponics and organic production. Currently, Lee attends business school in Denver and focuses on continuing advancements with Maximum Yield and indoor gardening technology.

Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.

Michael Bloch is the owner and

Jack Van Camp has been working

Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information.

Philip McIntosh is a science and

technology writer with a bachelor’s degree in botany and chemistry and a master’s degree in biological science.

During his graduate research he used hydroponic techniques to grow axenic plants. He lives in Colorado Springs, CO. where he teaches mathematics at Challenger Middle School.

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

editor of GreenLivingTips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy. The site offers a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment-related news to help consumers and businesses reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact.

Dr. Maynard Murray’s lifelong

research in sea energy agriculture began in 1936. The years before he died in 1983 were filled with intense hydroponic research on his own farm in North Fort Myers, Florida. The science lay dormant for 20 years. Orsa Organix, distributors of sustainable, balanced and ecofriendly technologies, is teaching others what Dr. Murray discovered.

for Homegrown Hydroponics. He has years of hands-on hydroponic gardening experience and will answer all of your questions through the Homegrown Hydroponics website at www.hydroponics.com He loves to share his knowledge with eager gardeners both locally and around the world.

Casey Jones Fraser owns Garden

Grove Organics, in Northern Kentucky/ Greater Cincinnati. He has a degree in communications and electronic media.

He believes that indoor gardeners can achieve the highest quality crops and maximum yields when proper science is applied. Since 1998, Casey has been testing various nutrients and supplements in search of outstanding harvests.

LETTERS TO the editor

Working Overtime I started reading Maximum Yield nine months ago. I read an article written by Don Mulcahy, “Knowing the Three S’s of Controlled Release Fertilizers (CRF)” in the January 2010 issue.

The intriguing part is I subsequently located a CRF product source that suited my required specifications, such as the flowering cycle timing out in 60 days. I gave it a try and it resulted in an unbelievable grow. I am currently using a CRF for the third time with extreme satisfaction. This time around I am loading the package with supplements.

I would personally like to thank both Don Mulcahy for writing the article and Maximum Yield for deciding to publish a well focused article on the use of Controlled Release Fertilization. Three part bloom is no longer a part of my regimen; however, should the CRF time out a little early because of over watering (unintentional leaching) I just add the proper NPK ratio boost in the tri period.

MY.com Insight I love the magazine, but I can’t access a search feature or features from previous issues (such as Paul Foster’s in depth account of what algae looks like). How can I do that?

Thanks Judy Listello Although MaximumYield.com doesn’t have a general search function, you can search by author and article (under Resources on the main page) and issue (left hand side of main page). Simply click on View All Editions of Maximum Yield.

Yours truly, Bryan Hewitt NorCal, USA

Grow Lessons All Year Long

Tried and True Deficiency Detectors

I am currently working with an aquaponics system at a public school in Pinellas County, Florida. I was told about your magazine by my local garden center. I would like to subscribe to your magazine.

Can you guys publish a series on nutrient deficiencies and how to deal with them?

C. Green This issue of Maximum Yield USA features Matt LeBannister detailing the nutrient deficiencies that lead to yellowing leaves. Similar articles will be published in the future as well so stay tuned. You can also check out the following articles on maximumyield.com by searching our article archives: “Detecting and Dealing with Nutrient Deficiencies,” “Nutrients: Beyond Macros and Micros” and “Plant Nutrient Elements Part 1 and 2.”

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Richard Evans You can subscribe to Maximum Yield by visiting http://maximumyield.com/subscriptions.php or by calling our office at 1-250-729-2677.

“Just got the October issue today. Great article on powdery mildew.” - Emily Walter “Great job in Long Beach guys! Hope y’all come back!” - Anonymous “I love this magazine.” - Charlie Daniel Joldersma

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

We want to hear from you!

Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com

Coming up on the Web Upcoming Events The Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expos – Coming to Three USA Cities Near You in 2011 Come visit us in Colorado (March 31 to April 3, 2011), San Francisco (July 16 to 17, 2011) and Long Beach (October 22 to 23, 2011). Full details updated regularly at www.indoorgardeningexpo.com

Stay Connected Join Maximum Yield on Facebook (facebook.com/MaximumYield) and participate in discussions with other readers on the topics that matter the most to you. Stay updated on upcoming Indoor Gardening Expos, post photos and be the first to hear about exclusive online reader contests.

Speed Read Grow your own gourmet lettuce garden. Design a hydroponic greenhouse.

Combat yellowing leaves. Foliar feed the right way. Grow a superfood. You will find these featured articles and more online this month.

I N D O O R

G A R D E N I N G

VOLUME 11 – NUMBER 9 December 2010 Maximum Yield is published monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092 Printed In Canada.

PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com Christina Indseth - christina@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Mike Linden - mike@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com Daniel Peters - daniel@maximumyield.com Nicole Tennison - nicole@maximumyield.com Jennifer Duong - jennifer@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS, BWGS West and BWGS East General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK

Latest News Get the latest on hydro farmers that rock out to metal, urban farms in front and backyards, hydroponics in high school classrooms and drought resistant plants.

Connect with Maximum Yield

www.maximumyield.com www.facebook.com/MaximumYield www.indoorgardeningexpo.com

Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you.

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION House N Garden Futchatec Growth Technology Hydraspher

SIMON says

Hey Simon, I have a very simple question that has me and many other growers confused.

I grow in a general purpose peat-based growing medium with vermiculite and perlite in buckets and I feed from the top. My question relates to pH. I have heard that peat-based grow mediums are soilless, and therefore should be watered/fed at 5.8 to 6.1 pH. I have also heard that these mediums should be treated like soil and watered/fed at 6.4 to 6.8 pH. Other people have said that they water/feed at 6.1 to 6.2 pH and certain fertilizer companies instruct watering/feeding at 6.3 pH. I’ve been looking on different forums on the internet, and it seems to be an area that really confuses a lot of people. I’ve noticed that the medium I use has a pH of anywhere between 5.3 to 5.8, so with this in mind, what should the pH of my water be? What runoff pH should I be looking for? What pH should I be watering/feeding with using peat-based products?

Jon The use of sphagnum peat moss is prevalent in both professional and hobby gardens alike. This type of peat has some very good characteristics but there is no perfect media. After being harvested and dried pure peat would have a low pH, somewhere between 3.8 to 4.9 depending on the source bog and material. A lot of peat suppliers can, and do, ship straight peat but most of what they ship out are blended products.

The product you are referring to specifically puts a variety of ingredients into the compressed bales and loose bags to amend the peat. To adjust the pH, most producers use dolomite lime to buffer the peat medium to somewhere between 5.5 to 6.0 (although individual bags vary). This buffering can last up to three months depending on the environmental conditions and irrigation methods.

Remember that the peat will have a much higher buffering capacity than the water, which can be easily adjusted. This means to adjust pH of the peat with irrigation water would be exceptionally difficult.

Your fertilizer solution is best buffered at 5.5 to 6.5 as a general rule. There could be a pH outside that range that works well for your crop, so experiment when possible. To assess a medium’s pH without an analytical soil analysis you can monitor the leachate, which drains from the bottom of your containers. If you find the leachate pH is lower than your water supply you can try mixing calcium into the top layer of the soil.You can also attempt to follow a more

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

complicated biochemical process if you know the composition of the fertilizer you are using. Ammonium nitrogen (NH4) will result in a drop in the medium’s pH while Nitrate nitrogen (NO3) can raise the medium’s pH due to interactions in the rhizosphere.

If you intend to reuse your peat be sure to rinse thoroughly to remove residual nutrients before checking the pH. If the pH has drifted below 5.5 be sure to add more dolomite to ensure that you start with a higher buffering capacity. Bacterial-based organic supplements such as worm casting and compost should have a higher initial pH and can be excellent amendments to a peat base. Using coir can also be useful to moderate the low pH of peat by blending in material with a higher pH. Be cautious because this will also affect the overall structure and moisture release curve of your medium.

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Research Could Offer Alternative to Genetically-Engineered Crops______________________ New findings from Van Andel Research Institute (VARI) scientists could lead to environmentallyfriendly sprays that help plants survive drought and other stresses in harsh environments.

VARI scientists determined precisely how the plant hormone abscisic acid (ABA) works at the molecular level to help plants respond to environmental stresses such as drought and cold.

One of ABA’s effects is to cause plant pores to close when plants are stressed so that they can retain water. In the new study, researchers identified several synthetic compounds that fit well with ABA’s many receptors, or cellular “docking stations,” to have the same effect. Sprays would allow plants to be much more adaptable than if they were genetically engineered.

(Source: www.sciencedaily.com)

Empowering Backyard Growers to Sell Their Produce____________ With the dropout economy fueling food entrepreneurship, and backyard farming taking off around the world, it makes sense to develop new and innovative ways for micro-growers to get their products to market. A New Zealand start up is hoping to unite farmers, microfarmers and gardeners, and offer their produce through one easy-to-use site.

At first glance Ooooby looks a little like a Veggie Trader site. But Ooooby seems to take the concept a little further. The group is already selling produce from gardeners and backyard growers at a regular farmers market stand, and it is enabling barter and swapping among grower members. Now a small proportion of the backyard produce is also making it into the group’s veggie box deliveries, which also feature produce from local and organic farmers—as well as some produce, like bananas, from further away.

Of course CSAs and veggie box delivery schemes are nothing new. But it is very cool to see a group specifically working to harness the growing power of backyard farmers.

(Source: www.treehugger.com, http://ooooby.ning.com)

Recirculating Water Systems Used for Fish Production___________ U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) scientists are working closely with a collaborator to save water as part of an effort to develop recirculating water systems for cooland cold-water fish production.

The recirculating system that was developed uses as little as four per cent new water each day, which means that a complete water exchange only takes place every 25 days. This miserly use of water allows recirculating fish farm systems to be located in many places where traditional aquaculture wouldn’t work.

The recirculating systems developed for the cool and cold aquaculture fish require far less water and capture the wastes, so the fish farm can be located far from large water bodies and near consumers. This gets fresh fish to market faster and with less transportation costs.

(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Food Justice, Security and Sovereignty Through Urban Farming Edible City, a new documentary created by East Bay Pictures, sets out to explore the concepts of food justice, security and sovereignty through the lens of the urban agricultural movement in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Edible City appears to be a holistic, big-picture type of movie. The film visits backyard farmers, community gardens and urban orchards. Drawing on the voices of activists like Eric Holg Gimenez of Food First, Van Jones of Green for All and Alice Carruthers of Alemany Farm, Edible City is a must see for anyone who believes that community gardens are more than just a feel-good education or conservation project, but rather a viable, realistic and scalable response to food shortages, hunger and rising gas prices.

(Source: www.treehugger.com)

Caring for People Before Plants___________ In many ways, a community garden is less about the “garden” and more about the “community,” and such is the case with San Francisco’s Hayes Valley Farm. The point of the Hayes Valley Farm project is to reconnect people. Food is really secondary to Hayes Valley Farm; it’s more a strategy for building up the community. Caring for people comes before caring for plants.

In addition to the core team, the farm relies on volunteers. To draw in those hard working volunteers, the farm relies on the musicians, speakers, yoga instructors and community members who create the fun and festivities that happen during the week.

The farm has been such a success, it has inspired similar projects in other places around the world from Japan to South America. This is the real legacy of the farm.

(Source: www.treehugger.com)

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Grodan Partners with Educators and Grows a Future Crop of Students When Grodan was approached about co-sponsoring and contributing to a hydroponic textbook for elementary and high school classrooms, Grodan was thrilled to participate. The third edition of “Classroom Hydroponic Plant Factory” now includes a crucial section—an introduction to rockwool as a growing media. The Grodan team of experts worked hard to provide an accurate, informative section that would convey rockwool’s place in the hydroponics market and capture the attention and imagination of today’s students. Visit www.foothillhydroponics.com for more information on this book. For more information on rockwool and Grodan, visit www.Grodan101.com or call 1-888-444-2476.

Meet the Metal Farmer_______________________________ How often do you encounter a farmer sporting cargos and a t-shirt, spraying neem fertilizer, all the while head banging to Iron Maiden? Take a trip to Pritham D’Souza’s farm in Kinya, Karnataka (India), and you are bound to encounter this very avatar of the ‘metal farmer.’ What makes this young agriculturist even more interesting is that he employs simplified hydroponics. For now, the hydroponics set-up is on a small scale but judging from the great feedback, expansion is in the pipeline.

Pritham is one hard-working farmer, who wakes up at 6 a.m. and goes to bed at 2 a.m. He also devotes much of his time to blogging and composing music.

Pritham acquired his father’s passion for farming, and shuttles between Bengaluru and Mangalore on work. “Hydroponics has existed for 80 years now. But most Indian agriculturists are skeptical of adopting it, since it’s too ‘Western’ for their tastes.”

(Source: www.deccanchronicle.com)

Technaflora and moe. in the Dominican Republic____________________

Organizations Aim to Pepper Austin With Urban Farms__________________________

Technaflora Plant Products and Paradise Groove Productions are proud to present moe.’s Tropical throe.down, January 5 to 9, 2011 at the Paradisus Resort located in Punta Cana, Dominican Rebublic. We can’t think of a better way to start the New Year then to bask in this unique, sundrenched, live music experience.

Technaflora invites everyone to join us at this all inclusive tropical event; to sweeten the deal to all moe. fans, we are extending a special Technaflora Discount of $100 off per person on any travel package.

Just mention us when making a reservation using the promotion code TPP100. For more information about moe.’s Tropical throe.down and what the resort has to offer, visit http://paradisegroove.com/moecon.php

An organization called Urban Patchwork in Austin, founded by Paige Hill, is a 10-month-old operation that offers to turn homeowners’ yards into vegetable patches. In return for granting access to the land, property owners who participate get all the free vegetables they can eat. Urban Patchwork and other similar projects in town are an effort to turn Austin back into a quilt-like urban farm, where front yards and backyards are not for grass but for vegetables patches.

Urban Patchwork currently farms four plots and has 40 subscribers, each of whom pay about $20 a week for vegetables. Hill said they hope to have another 10 plots by the end of the year. The plots range from 1,000 to 3,500 square feet; property owners donate water used to irrigate the plants and commit to providing land to the organization for at least two years.

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

(Source: www.statesman.com)

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Permaculture Greens the Jordanian Desert Jordan seems to be a hot spot for permaculture. In 2006, Greening the Desert documented how permaculture activist Geoff Lawton worked with the local population to turn 10 acres of arid, salty Jordanian desert into a lush productive garden.

Two permaculture projects in Jordan today show both the limitations and the possibilities of permaculture.

The first, started by Geoff Lawton and his wife Nardia, features an impressive drip irrigation system, but the project is reliant on volunteer labor from abroad.

The second project, run by CARE International, struggles to convince many locals that an organic, permaculture-based approach will yield better results than chemical fertilizers. And yet the shot of two gardens next to each other—one run on permaculture principles, the other using extensive chemical inputs—is a pretty impressive contrast. Showing lush green ground cover and flowers interplanted with trees on the one side, and bare earth and trees on the other, the long term environmental and social benefits of a more integrated, holistic approach seem self-evident.

(Source: www.treehugger.com)

Red Celery Coming in December_________ A Florida farm has created red celery in time for the holiday season. Duda Farm Fresh Foods, one of the world’s largest producers of celery in the world, has been working on this “recipe” for 19 years. The celery turns red via selective breeding, arguably a more natural form of genetic modification. Growers carefully select and iteratively breed varieties to achieve expression of genetic characteristics.

Changing the color of a food is a way of marketing it, making it more appealing. Some reasons to manipulate or modify our foods include pest resistance, disease resistance, adding nutritional value and stability.

However, we may not understand the impact of these lab made foods on the environment and ourselves for years.

(Source: http://news.sympatico.ca)

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Seed Sprouters - Easy to Use and Simple Designs______ Fresh sprouts are healthy and taste great. They contain a large variety of vitamins and are extremely easy to digest. They are also very tasty and upgrade almost any meal. Once you have a sprouter, it is easy to germinate seeds at home. A variety of user-friendly, simple sprouter designs are flooding the market. Many of the designs don’t take up more space than a cup of tea and are practically foolproof.

Growing sprouts at home means you save on packaging, energy and transportation. It is much less bulky to transport dry seeds than fresh sprouts, that have a relatively short shelf life and require constant refrigeration, and hence energy. Common seeds to sprout are mung bean, chickpeas, soy and alfalfa.

(Source: www.treehugger.com)

New York Auction for Trendy Heritage Vegetables____________________ Sotheby’s New York Auction House is holding an Art of Farming sale to support farmers’ organizations in the New York state area. The oddest items on the auction block are heirloom vegetables from more than 40 local farmers from the New York tri-state area.

The heirloom vegetables up for sale for $1,000 a crate— the encouraged donation—will include Turkish Orange Eggplant, Lady Godiva Squash and Pink Banana Pumpkin. All 40 lots have been grown by local farmers.

It’s all in support of the GrowNYC New Farmer Development Project, which identifies, educates and supports immigrants with agricultural experience to become local producers and establish farms in the region, and The Sylvia Center, a program that inspires and teaches children to eat well through handson experience at Katchkie Farm and in school and community centers all over New York City.

MY (Source: www.treehugger.com)

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

PRODUCT spotlight

See it. Want it.

Find it at your local indoor gardening store.

Redesigned GrowSpot™ LED Grow Light _________________________________________ Featuring all new Matrix LED technology, the redesigned GrowSpot™ contains 12 high powered LEDs on the same die and under one lens for unparalleled focus and light output. Due to its reengineered heat sink, the internal cooling fan is no longer needed.

The new GrowSpot yields better results and also uses three watts less. GrowSpots fit into any standard light socket and can be used as a standalone or supplemental grow light. They are available in standard Mixed Spectrum (full cycle), BloomBooster (flowering), Vigorous Veg (vegetative/aquarium) and the startlingly bright Daylight White (6500K white light). Visit your local indoor gardening shop for more information.

Keep it Clean with Horti-Control’s Dust Shroom ___________________ The Horti-Control Dust Shroom is a patent pending reusable foam HEPA filter designed to keep dust, dirt, bugs, mold and bacteria out of air cooled reflectors, inline fans, ice boxes and ducting in indoor gardens. Dust Shroom traps 99.9 per cent of all particles one micron and higher, with zero CFM loss. Every Dust Shroom is designed on a flow bench for optimum airflow, and is hand crafted at UNI Filters headquarters in Fullerton, CA. Available sizes: four inches, six inches, eight inches, 10 inches, and coming soon, 14 inches. Available now at your local indoor gardening shop.

Hydroponix Nutrients for all Stages of Growth Hydroponix Nutrients are well suited for plants during all their growth stages: vegetative, flowering and fruiting. Basic Grow has the proper blend of NPK and trace elements necessary for rapid growth during the vegetative stage. Basic Bloom provides the perfect blend of NPK and trace elements—iron, manganese and zinc—during the fruiting and flowering stages for larger yields and healthier flowers and fruit. Basic Micro Nutrients provide all the secondary nutrients necessary for growth from the early stages of growth through to fruiting and flowering. Visit your local indoor gardening shop for more information.

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

Make More, Spend Less With the SunPulse Splitter ______________________ Every grower would like to make more money and spend less on the cost of operations. The SunPulse splitter allows you to inexpensively control your grow room and operates cool. This device delivers about 1,200 watts of energy for around 1,000 watts. Reduce the costs of operating your HVAC systems by running fewer ballasts and lower wattage SunPulse lamps. Too much light causes photo-inhibition and shuts down photosynthesis. Use the same number of fixtures with half the magnetic ballasts.

The SunPulse Splitter is exclusively for use with SunPulse brand lamps.

For more information visit an indoor gardening shop near you.

PRODUCT spotlight

See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Gain Control of Your Garden ______________________________ The Thrive CO2 Controller monitors light, temperature and CO2 levels using software algorithms that actually learn fuzzy logic. The Thrive CO2 Controller constantly samples, calculates and adjusts, providing accurate and optimal CO2 levels. The Thrive CO2 Controller is the first and only CO2 controller that measures and displays loss/rise values of CO2. This data allows the gardener to adjust injection rates and determine if leaks exist in the grow environment. The Thrive CO2 Controller will send you a text message alerting you if your preset parameters are out of range. For more information, visit your local indoor gardening store.

Breakthrough Rooting Technology ________________________ MX Clone Gel provides all the necessary ingredients to generate roots from the stem or leaf cuttings of your choice. This unique gel seals the cutting and has antibacterial and anti-fungal ingredients to prevent bacteria and fungus from entering the cutting, giving you a stronger, healthier clone. MX Clone Gel is ultra strong with fast results that will save you time and money. The unique formulation will work for both softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings. MX Clone Gel will promote rapid and healthy root growth for all types of flowers, fruits and vegetables. Visit an indoor gardening shop near you for more information.

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

PRODUCT spotlight

See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.

OG Amino-Cal 3-0-0 ___________________

Botanicare’s Clone Machine™ 48 ________

OG Amino-Cal 3-0-0 is a completely organic, indoor/outdoor calcium formula designed for use in hydroponic, ebb and flow, re-circulating and aeroponic systems, plus in soil or coir mixes. OG Amino-Cal 3-0-0 contains calcium, nitrogen, proteins and is chelated with amino acids to increase nutrient absorption and decrease calcium lock-outs. Use with OG Grow 4-0-0 and OG Bloom 0-5-7 during all stages. One gallon of OG Amino-Cal 3-0-0 makes over 750 gallons of a ready-to-use calcium formula. OG Amino-Cal 3-0-0 is approved for use in organic crop production. Visit your local hydro shop for more information.

Botanicare® has reincarnated the once popular Clone Machine™ 42 into a sleek and economical Clone Machine™ 48. Now made from durable, high density polyethylene plastics, the Clone Machine 48 boasts a footprint of just 12 by 29 inches with six additional plant sites and includes dense neoprenes that fit snuggly into the re-engineered molded lid. With a low vertical profile of only 10 inches, this modified machine runs efficiently using just six gallons of water and utilizes a high output submersible pump. Backed by our one year manufacturer’s replacement warranty, the Clone Machine 48 will satisfy any grower’s desire for a mid-size cloner at an affordable price.

For more information visit your favorite indoor gardening store.

The Green Scissor Brand Oven Bags _____________________ Our customers have spoken, and we have listened. The Green Scissor Turkey/Oven Bags are now packaged in 150 packs (19 by 23.5 inches) and 200 packs (16 by 17.5 inches). Additionally, our new packs along with our 20 and 25 packs will include free time cards for documenting hours spent on Turkey Bag projects. The Green Scissor bag is 25 per cent thicker than the grocery store brand for superior puncture resistance with a wide seam so blowouts are non-existent. For more information visit an indoor gardening shop near you.

SunPulse Element Controllers _________________________ The SunPulse Element Controllers give the user consistent conditions that remove stress and increase plant metabolic function. Real time functions interact with indoor and outdoor environmental conditions to give you a solution under any circumstances. Proper control of interior conditions for your plants will give you optimal results. No CO2 is required with this system. The Element Controller monitors and maintains the environment, so you don’t have to. For more information, visit an indoor gardening shop near you.

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PRODUCT spotlight

Vital Earth’s® Organic Potting Soil _______ Our high quality organic potting soil is the perfect medium in which to grow all your fruits and vegetables.

This superior potting soil contains sphagnum peat moss, earthworm castings and bedding, which helps promote nutrient and water absorption. Our organic potting soil also contains our own specially formulated Vital Earth’s® Organic Compost OMRI™, which provides fertility to soil as well as suppressing disease. Compost helps your soil retain moisture by increasing its micro porosity. This soil has the ideal waterto-air ratio making it perfect for all varieties of flowering plants. Vital Earth’s® Organic Potting Soil has mycorrhizal fungi, Vital Earth’s High Phos Bat Guano and Vital Earth’s ® Powdered Glacial Rock. To learn more visit your nearest indoor/outdoor gardening shop.

GGL Bulbs - Lighting the Digital Age ______ GGL Bulbs are designed specifically for digital ballasts, using the ultimate light spectrum for indoor gardening.

GGL sourced a Japanese bulb manufacturer to build the perfect HPS bulb. These bulbs are sturdy enough to handle both the high frequencies of digital ballasts and the power spike associated with coil ballasts.

By combining superior components and the right formula of gases, GGL has developed a light spectrum specifically formatted to stimulate indoor gardening cycles. The results are bulbs that give consistent levels of performance, lumen output and have long life. Available in 400, 600 and 1,000 watt sizes. Global Greenhouse Lighting is available from indoor gardening retail shops across America.

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PRODUCT spotlight

Whitmire Pro-Control and Pro-Control Plus Total Release Aerosol Insecticide ________________________________________ Pro-Control Total Release Aerosol Insecticide provides a quick knockdown of crawling and flying insects. It has been labeled for use as a space treatment in residential, commercial and USDA facilities. It is convenient, easy-to-use and effective against a wide variety of pests.

Pro-Control Plus Total Release Insecticide is a ready-to-use, ultra low volume insecticide fogger. It has been labeled for use in greenhouses, apartments, basements, non-food areas of commercial building, houses, office buildings, sheds and storage areas. Apply on bedding plants, cut flowers, flowering hanging baskets, foliage, potted flowering plants and ornamentals. Pro-Control Plus controls thrips, whiteflies, scale and aphids. Order Whitmire from an authorized Hydrofarm retailer near you.

Get GroZone Controllers ________________

SuperCloset Deluxe for 2011______________

GroZone’s Controllers help gardeners manage their plants’ growing environment, and they’re now available at indoor gardening retail stores across the United States. This high-quality line includes: timers, climate controllers, CO2 controllers, fan speed controllers, load switchers, set point and adjustable differential thermostats and more. Best of all, GroZone comes with a three year no-hassle warranty.

Contact your favorite indoor gardening shop for more details.

SuperCloset, Inc. of San Francisco, California is proud to present their 2011 award winning, hydroponic grow cabinet - the Deluxe. The 2011 model allows for faster growth so you can harvest sooner. Plus, SuperCloset has added their patented Superponics watering system. Includes SuperCloset exclusives: high density steel cabinet; internal circulation fan; net trellis; a full year’s supply of nutrients; adjustable dual chamber design; and a three year warranty and lifetime customer support. Visit your favorite indoor gardening/hydroponics retail shop to find out why SuperClosets are the number one selling grow systems in the world.

NF Hydro Clay – Premium Expanded Clay ______________________ Nutrifield Hydro Clay is a natural, inert growing medium. It has a neutral pH, is resistant to chemicals and will not break down easily. The ceramic-like pellets are lightweight, porous and have a high crushing resistance. Nutrifield Hydro Clay helps prevent oxygen starvation to the plant’s root system and can help prevent root rot due to increased oxygen levels. Nutrifield Hydro Clay may also reduce algae, fungus gnats and unwanted weeds. Nutrifield Hydro Clay can be blended with Nutrifield NF Premium Coco to create an impressive potting mix. Available at an indoor gardening shop near you.

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Starts2

Mo rgan

Hydroponic part

tte

Starting Plants for Hydroponic Systems

e yn L .

by Dr

Sharpening up your knowledge of the propagation environment and necessary propagation materials can help you raise healthy, happy starts, which can lead to healthy, happy plants, simply.

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H ybrid tomato plants being raised in the rockwool system of propagation cubes and blocks.

A

healthy and productive hydroponic system is dependent on good quality planting stock.

Strong, well-hardened foliage with a well-developed and disease-free root system make all the difference to the success of a young seedling or cutting when it is introduced to a hydroponic system. Most new plants are raised in separate propagation or nursery areas that allow for additional heat for seed germination and increased humidity for cuttings, as well as specific lighting designed for the delicate, early stages of growth. Although many new growers have managed with a sunny windowsill to get those first few seedlings underway, the need for a larger propagation area usually becomes an issue as the hydroponic system grows and expands over time.

The propagation environment A propagation area for hydroponic starts requires a few basic conditions to be successful, including the following: some form of temperature control, usually supplied with a heated pad or mat. Air movement is required to vent out overly warm, humid air when necessary—this can be provided with a small household fan or simply by rolling up the sides of the propagation area and allowing some air flow. Correct intensity and type of lighting for indoor propagation areas are also important—cloning lights or fluorescents are ideal and shouldn’t provide too much heat, which can scorch young seedlings. In greenhouses some overhead shade is usually required in propagation areas for spring and summer seasons. Finally, the area needs to be sparkling clean—dust, dirt, soil and plant debris harbor disease pathogens that will prey on sensitive and tender young plantlets. For troublefree propagation the water supply also needs some consideration, as seedlings of many species are more susceptible to water-quality issues than mature plants and water treatment chemicals such as chlorine, chloramines, sodium and others can cause germination problems if levels are high enough. Also, microbial contamination of other water supplies has in the past Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

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Hydroponic Starts Part 2

seen some pretty impressive propagation failures due to waterborne pathogens such as Pythium, so clean, high-quality water is a must. Small volumes of water used in a propagation area can be treated with carbon filtration and boiling, or small UV filters such as those used in aquariums or fish ponds, which will destroy most pathogen spores.

Propagation materials Most hydroponic growers have favored materials for raising new planting stock, although it pays to keep a watch for new prod-

coconut fiber and other organic materials that give new plants a good start.

Each media or substrate combination has its own unique physical and chemical properties, which influence the germination and rooting environment of the young plants, so choosing well is important. Since the main cause of seedling death or lack

“The area needs to be sparkling clean— dust, dirt, soil and plant debris harbor disease pathogens that will prey on sensitive and tender young plantlets.”

M icrogreens and baby leaf crops are best direct sown into hydroponic beds lined with growing media such as the grow mats.

ucts and materials that come onto the market, as in the past new developments have proven to provide significant advantages. For many years hydroponic starts were raised in the tried-and-true potting mixes, such as the peat-lite type mixes, and although these work well, they are not ideally suited to solution culture hydroponics. For systems such as NFT, DFT, aeroponics, float or raft systems, grit contamination from the propagation media needs to be avoided and the ‘solid’ cubes, blocks and disks are a good choice. Rockwool and Oasis have been the mainstay of commercial growers; however, there is a great selection of new materials for propagation, some of them biodegradable, others organically based and usually clean, sterile and ready to use with little preparation. For media-based production systems the choice of propagation materials is extensive—not only can the standard blocks and cubes be used, but a wide range of loose media is available from perlite, vermiculite, composed bark fines, sand, coconut fiber, shredded rockwool, peat, pumice, scoria, organic mixes and many others. Even growers who like to follow a more organic philosophy are catered to these days as there are propagation materials, plugs, blocks and cubes formed from 48

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of germination experienced by new or inexperienced growers is oversaturation of the propagation media, it’s usually a good idea to start out with a specific propagation product designed for hydroponics and carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Pre-formed propagation cubes or blocks are designed to be wet at the base and fairly dry towards the top, so that nutrient or water is wicked up by capillary action from the propagation tray without the need for overhead watering, which is not ideal during germination and with young seedlings. The drier surface of modern propagation products helps prevent problems such as damping off, which is common when oversaturation has occurred.

T he correct propagation tools and materials are the best way to set up a small nursery area to raise new plants.

Hydroponic Starts Part 2

L ettuce seeds germinating in oasis cubes.

Raising Healthy Starts Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers These warm-season crops are hydroponic favorites, and with a little extra heat and plenty of light they can be grown and propagated year round in indoor gardens. The ideal germination temperature is 72 to 75°F for tomatoes and peppers/chilies and 75 to 82ºF for cucumbers, melons, squash and other cucurbits.

Usually these plants are raised in individual pots or cubes of propagation media and grown until they have at least four true leaves before planting out into a hydroponic system. This allows the roots to grow and extend out the base of the propagation material before planting out, giving a better success rate and faster establishment. As with all hydroponic starts, tomatoes, peppers, chilies and cucumbers need to be hardened off before planting out to prevent transplant shock and the growth reduction that goes with it. Inside the propagation area

“Once mature strawberry plants are in a hydroponic system and have completed the flowering and fruiting cycle many will then produce runners and small plantlets of their own.”

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the environment is highly protected and light levels are often lower than they are out in the main hydroponic growing area, so the seedlings have softer, more tender growth than more mature plants. This tender growth can lead to wilting and stress when seedlings are transferred to higher light/lower humidity conditions, particularly if the nutrient solution EC is also higher than the seedlings have become accustomed to. Hardening off young transplants is relatively simple—light should be increased and the EC of the seedling nutrients gradually brought up to the same level the hydroponic system will be running at. It only takes a few days for rapid-growing plants such as tomatoes to harden off, and this is an important step that will prevent any check in growth after transplanting. Tomato starts also have a tendency to ‘stretch’ or elongate in the propagation area if conditions are too warm and not enough light is provided, particularly if the plants are too close together. Stocky, short and compact transplants will give a more productive crop and plant height can be kept under control by spacing the seedlings well, reducing temperatures after germination (particularly the night temperature) and ensuring there is sufficient light—having seedlings under full-strength light by the time they have their second true leaf will keep them short and compact. With tomatoes in particular, young seedlings can also be kept compact with the use of a high-nutrient EC (as high as 3.5), although this should not be used with more sensitive plants such as cucumbers.

Strawberries Strawberry plants sometimes create some confusion about the best way to raise or prepare plants for hydroponic systems. While there is now seed available for large-fruited strawberries, plants are still more commonly grown from runners, which are newly rooted plantlets formed from the mother plant. Using

Hydroponic Starts Part 2

of lettuce will fail to germinate and go into secondary dormancy if conditions are too warm. Lettuce is usually raised in small propagation cubes, which can be separated during planting out as this prevents root disturbance and lessens the time to harvest.

However, the exception is when lettuce or other greens are being grown for baby leaf or microgreen harvest—in this case, the seed needs to be direct-sown onto sheets of media or directly onto a media bed. Since seedlings grown for baby leaf or microgreens are only grown for a short period of time they are sown

“Lettuce, herbs and many salad greens are fairly easy to propagate, although they prefer cooler temperatures than tomatoes.”

C arrots are another root crop that are best sown direct into hydroponic media beds.

pre-chilled runners allows a very rapid development of the flowers and fruits, with harvesting being possible within a few weeks of establishing well-formed runners into a hydroponic system. The problem with bringing in strawberry runners is that they are often propagated out in the field and may therefore be carrying soil and disease pathogens. A better option is to use nursery-raised runner tip plantlets, which are grown in a soilless growing media that is easily washed off the root system.

Plants should be given a quick dip in a fungicide treatment solution before planting out as this will help prevent many of the root and crown rot pathogens that strawberries can be prone to developing. For hydroponics, pre-chilled, day-neutral strawberry runners are the type to purchase. The pre-chilling means the plants have had their dormancy treatment and will be ready to flower once established into warm growing conditions, and day-neutral types will flower and fruit under any day length once they have been chilled for long enough. This means the photoperiod or amount of light provided to the hydroponic system doesn’t need to be changed to suit strawberries, and the plants can be grown alongside many other fruiting and vegetable crops. Once mature strawberry plants are in a hydroponic system and have completed the flowering and fruiting cycle many will then produce runners and small plantlets of their own, which can be used to propagate a further crop using soilless media and methods.

Lettuce and herbs Lettuce, herbs and many salad greens are fairly easy to propagate, although they prefer cooler temperatures than tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers and are best raised separately. The optimum temperature for lettuce germination is 54 to 64ºF and some varieties 52

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very densely and the crowding predisposes the young plants to fungal pathogens. For this reason a good rate of air flow over the seedlings, careful watering from the base and use of a sterile growing mat will help give a healthy and trouble-free crop of baby leaves. While still in the young seedling stage lettuce starts need particular care and attention as high temperatures and low light, particularly when combined with a long day length, can induce bolting or premature formation of a flower stalk in the plants when they are planted out. Bolting is characterized by the lettuce elongating from the center rather than staying as a compact rosette of foliage, and this physiological disorder is N ursery grown plug plants can be used to establish a hydroponic media bed of strawberries.

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Hydroponic Starts Part 2

often induced in the seedling stage by overcrowding the plants in overly warm growing conditions.

Herbs vary considerably in their germination requirements so the guidelines for each species should be checked. These can be roughly divided into warm-season herbs such as basil, oregano, arugula, dill and coriander (cilantro), which germinate well with temperatures similar to those used with tomatoes. Coolerseason herbs such as chives, mint and sorrel as well as many of the endives and chicory prefer similar germination temperatures to lettuce.

Sturdy, healthy, well-hardened hydroponic transplants are well worth the effort required to design and construct a small propagation area. Armed with the right information and equipment for generating rapid germination and root formation, the propagation of hydroponics starts is a relatively straightforward and highly rewarding process.

Online Extra: Visit maximumyield.com for tips on raising healthy root crop starts, such as carrots, onions, radishes, yams and parsnips and tuber crops such as potatoes and sweet potatoes. MY

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Plant Solutions:

How to Deal With Yellowing Leaves Yellow leaves giving you the blues? Matt LeBannister sheds some light on the condition. Consider the following nutrient deficiencies to cure this common plant ailment. by Matt LeBannister

Intro Page Photo Credit: Nick Persichilli

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Plants are complex organisms that require certain environ-

mental and nutritional conditions to survive. Given the right levels of sunlight, air temperature, root zone temperature, pH and nutrients, plants will not just survive, but thrive. With all the advances in indoor gardening it is now possible for every indoor gardener to totally regulate all aspects of a plant’s growing environment and nutrient intake. If any aspect of this sensitive system is allowed to go out of sync, however, problems can arise.

If the EC or nutrient levels get too high or low, for example, or the pH moves out of the plant’s optimum level, plants can develop yellow leaves. Usually, though, yellowing leaves are a result of a deficiency in any one of a number of specific nutrients.

The most common cause of yellowing leaves in plants is a nitrogen deficiency. Nitrogen is a mobile macronutrient that is needed for the production of chlorophyll. Plants deficient in nitrogen will be unable to produce enough chlorophyll, causing leaves to yellow.

The symptoms will begin with the older leaves closest to the base of the plant. This is because the plant is sending what little nitrogen it has to the newest growth at the top of the plant. The

“The most common cause of yellowing leaves in plants is a nitrogen deficiency.

Nitrogen is a mobile macronutrient that is needed for the production of chlorophyll.” leaves will begin to yellow in between the veins and this will spread to the whole leaf—if the problem is not corrected, the leaf will die and fall off. Other symptoms include the stem and leaf undersides turning purple, and overall stunted growth.

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Plant Solutions: How to Deal with Yellowing leaves

The main cause of nitrogen deficiencies is having a pH that is too high.

Every plant has an ideal pH range that allows for a maximum uptake of nutrients, and the water they are given should be pH balanced to be in the plant’s specific requirement zone. Soil and soilless growing mediums are very forgiving and can handle a wider pH range, where hydroponics and aeroponics need the pH range to be very specific for plants to thrive. For instance, tomatoes grown in soil can handle their water pH from 5.8 to 6.8, whereas tomatoes grown in hydroponics prefer the water pH to remain between 5.8 at the lowest and 6.4 at the very highest.

To effectively treat a nitrogen deficiency, you must first determine whether enough nitrogen is being added to the nutrient mix. If the nutrient is high quality and being added at the directed rate this is not likely to be the source of the problem, however. An overly high pH—causing nutrient lock out—then

“The symptoms of iron deficiency and nitrogen deficiency are similar: the leaf begins to turn yellow between the veins.” becomes the most likely cause. Simply correct the pH levels and begin to check them more often.

Another common cause of yellowing leaves is an iron deficiency. The symptoms of iron deficiency and nitrogen deficiency are similar: the leaf begins to turn yellow between the veins, which always remain green. If left untreated, the leaf will eventually die and fall off. The one symptom that can help you differentiate an iron deficiency from a nitrogen deficiency is that the leaves first affected will be the youngest leaves, closest to the top of the plant, and the yellowing will then spread from the youngest to the oldest leaves.

The use of poor quality nutrients is one cause of an iron deficiency in plants. Cheaper nutrient formulas do not always have the right amount of micronutrients to promote ideal plant health. Switching to a more complete nutrient or adding kelp spray to your feeding schedule is usually a quick solution to the problem.

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Iron deficiency can also often be caused by having a pH over 6.5. If soil or water becomes more alkaline than pH 6.5 it will cause the plant to lock out some nutrients, including iron. By correcting the pH level and checking it often you will be able to address this problem and prevent it from happening again in the future.

Iron deficiencies in plants can also be caused by an overabundance of potassium or phosphorous. Just like having an overly high pH level, potassium and phosphorous toxicities lock out other nutrients. To ensure that plants do not develop toxic levels of nutrients one should always follow the nutrient instructions carefully. Plants in soil or soilless mixes should be flushed with straight pH-balanced water every other watering to prevent a build up of nutrients. For plants growing in hydroponics, using an EC (electric conductivity) meter or a PPM (part per million) meter can help prevent nutrient toxicities. These meters do not tell you the exact amount of each nutrient, but give you a reading of the overall nutrient level. If a quality nutrient is being used, this is a safe method of measuring nutrient levels. If the toxicity has

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Plant Solutions: How to Deal with Yellowing leaves

Photo Credit: Nick Persichilli

reached a dangerous level in the plant you may want to use a clearing solution to leach the excess nutrients out of the plant—this may save plants before they become too damaged and crops are affected.

Another very common deficiency that results in yellowing leaves is a magnesium deficiency. Magnesium is a nutrient essential to the production of the chlorophyll the plant needs in abundance to absorb photons to enable the process of photosynthesis.

The symptoms of a magnesium deficiency also include leaves yellowing in between green veins, but with this particular deficiency the leaf tips become brown and turn upwards, and the area first affected will be the middle leaves of the plant.

Magnesium deficiencies are common indoors and have many causes. Plants growing in soil or soilless mediums could have lots of magnesium present but it may not be available to them because it has become bound in the medium. This happens with soil and soilless mixes that are too acidic. Simply adjust pH to the ideal level and continue to check more frequently. Magnesium also becomes bound in soil when the soil is too cold or too wet. To correct this problem, allow 62

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plants to drain and dry before their next watering. Adding perlite to your soil/soilless mix can also improve drainage and air retention. When a plant’s root zone becomes too cold it is also unable to take up adequate amounts of magnesium—to have an ideal root zone, keep the temperature between 65 to 75°F. Magnesium can also become deficient in plants when there is an overly high EC. Having too much potassium, nitrogen and

“Sometimes leaves begin to yellow and there is nothing wrong with the plant.” calcium in soil/soilless mixes or reservoir nutrient solutions will cause magnesium to become locked out of the plant. Adjusting the EC levels in the nutrient and checking more frequently can fix this problem and prevent it from happening in the future. If your problem is simply poor quality nutrients devoid of magnesium you can try watering occasionally with water treated with one teaspoon of Epsom salts per quarter gallon. This is a safe, low-risk way of increasing magnesium levels in the nutrients without burning your plant leaves.

Sometimes leaves begin to yellow and there is nothing wrong with the plant.

Yellowing leaves are just a natural part of the plant’s lifecycle—they turn yellow and fall off when they get old. This can trick gardeners into thinking that the plant has a deficiency, when really the old leaves are simply falling off due to old age. These old leaves are no longer photosynthesizing efficiently and it is in the plant’s best interest to shed them, allowing the plant to focus its energy on growing new leaves that will photosynthesize at maximum efficiency.

There are many different possible causes for a plant’s leaves to yellow, but a nutrient deficiency is usually to blame. Deficiencies generally result from fluctuating pH and EC levels, but overly saturated and cold root zones can be responsible as well. And sometimes yellowing leaves are just a symptom of old age—the old leaves are dying and falling off to be replaced with newer and more efficient ones. The important thing is to investigate the root of the problem to prevent nutrient deficiencies from reoccurring in the future.

Vigilantly monitoring your pH and EC levels for any fluctuations away from the ideal zone can make all the difference when gardening. MY

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by Lee

McCa

ll

The In

s and

of HV

Outs

AC

Does your grow room need a lift? Likely what it’s missing is a strong dose of ventilation. The pros and cons of a sealed room (with respect to heating, ventilation and air conditioning) are detailed in this article so you can make up your own mind and recreate your space. Don’t be daunted by the equipment list.

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The grow room is an isolated environment constructed as a necessary means to control and influence plant production.

Several aspects such as lighting, nutrient regimen and strain characteristics might be regarded as primary pillars of the grow room, but ventilation is every bit as important as any of these aspects and will ultimately influence the quality of the end product and the efficiency of grow room operations.

Ventilation is concerned with temperature, humidity and CO2—three major factors that revolve around efficient lighting and environmental control and which are vital for healthy growth. As a grower, a definitive question when setting up a respectable new grow is deciding whether or not to run a sealed room. Many people argue that sealed rooms create more problems with temperature, humidity and CO2 than they solve, but others prefer this method in order to maintain higher CO2 levels for longer periods of

“Ventilation is concerned with temperature, humidity and CO2— three major factors that revolve around efficient lighting and environmental control and which are vital for healthy growth.” time and keep the expense of running fans to a minimum.

As with any grower, to each their own; great results are achievable in a multitude of ways and styles.

Personally, I steer away from sealed rooms if at all possible, not because they are bad, but because I prefer to keep air movement high and CO2 levels at normal numbers for most of the day. I also favor air-cooling grow light reflectors separately from carbon filters. Although it is initially cheaper

Grow room diagram.

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The Ins and Outs of HVAC to use the filtered air from a carbon scrubber to vent heat out of grow light housings, I feel that overall efficiency is reduced through the effectiveness of VOC (odor) removal from the filter

“If an air-cooled reflector is being utilized with six or eight inch ducts, it is best to keep the fan running in sync with the cycle of the lights.”

and heat from the grow light. In the long run, investing more can end up returning more from the crop. Take for example a high-output inline fan that is capable of 700 CFM of free-flowing air with no static pressure. As soon as that fan is paired with a carbon filter of the appropriate size the static pressure rating is increased, thus dropping the CFM level of the fan. If an air-cooled reflector is being utilized with six or eight inch ducts, it is best to keep the fan running in sync with the cycle of the lights. If the lights turn on, a fan should also turn on to keep them cool during operation.

As stated earlier, “clean” air that is projected from any carbon filter may be used to partially remove heat from the reflectors, although this eliminates the ability to efficiently use supplemental CO2 in the garden. The reason for this is because CO2 levels are generally most effective on plants at levels ranging from

Closed loop ventilation for grow lights.

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The Ins and Outs of HVAC 800 to 1,500 PPM, and for periods in excess of at least 30 minutes. In order to successfully build a CO2 PPM level of 800 to 1,500 from the normal 300 to 450 and maintain it for at least 30 minutes, the garden must be free of exhaust or intake air during this time—virtually sealed. Leaving several 1,000 watt lights (or even just one) on in a confined space without adequate air-cooling could result in exposing the garden to temperature extremes in excess of 95°F or more. If you are using a carbon filter to air-cool your lights, can you turn the carbon filter off for at least one hour, or

Mult-Tent: This set-up promotes thourough airflow through both tents using one intake and one exhaust.

even 30 minutes, without reaching a dangerous temperature in the garden? Theoretically, if air-cooling a grow light is dependent on the operation of a carbon filter, then the carbon filter would have to be turned off in order to allow CO2 levels to rise in the garden; otherwise it would all be exhausted out of the room with the heat from the grow light. Since the main source of generated heat from a grow room is derived from the lights, there will probably be a discrepancy in maintaining a safe and consistent temperature in the garden during times when CO2 would be used and the carbon filter would have to be turned off.

To avoid a dilemma such as this and ensure that you are being cost effective with CO2 operations, air-cool any and all grow lights with their own fan, on their own ventilation loop.

Basically, air should be pulled from a remote area—i.e. outside, an adjacent room, a crawl space, an attic, etc.—and projected through the grow light(s) to remove heat, then exhausted outside or to another area separate from the one where air is originally being taken from. When set up this way, the grow

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The Ins and Outs of HVAC

lights will be able to stay air-cooled as long as they are on, and will have no affiliation with air flow from a carbon filter or room exhaust.

Next, intake and exhaust air for the garden itself should be set up on its own ventilation loop separate from that of the grow lights. A separate intake point will allow fresh air to enter the grow area and refresh any depleted CO2 levels. All grow room air that comes in contact with plants should be exhausted through a carbon filter

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and dumped outside or into another simple diagrams to help guide those area adjacent the grow room. Let’s recap: in need towards the ideal grow room a minimum of two fans is required in ventilation design. order to achieve this ventilation concept.

A rare, but true oddity: a handful of One fan is dedicated to cooling only times I have encountered a grower who grow lights and has no other purpose to runs a sealed room with no problems the operation of the garden. Another fan for years, but suddenly faces poor will operate the carbon filter to ensure growth, low yield and a drop in quality. any and all grow room air is cleaned Instead of allowing a crop to breathe before it is “normal” CO2 levels (300 to exhausted “Over time the crop evolves out of the 450 PPMs) and adapts to these high levels area. A from a fresh air third fan is exchange with of CO2, and, as an effect, if CO2 optional, for the occasional levels are ever below 1,000 intake air to CO2 blast of to 1,500 PPMs then plant the garden.

1,500 PPM, production ceases.”

I highly the sealed room design recommend maintains that air from 1,000 to 1,500 PPMs at all times. Over outside be pushed through a HEPA filter before being allowed to replenish time the crop evolves and adapts to the garden atmosphere. HEPA filters these high levels of CO2, and, as an effect, if CO2 levels are ever below will remove more 1,000 to 1,500 PPMs then plant than 90 per cent of production ceases. This theory basically negative pathogens confirms that CO2 is a ‘supernatural’ that could infect occurrence for a plant in nature at such the garden and 99 high levels, and that your garden can per cent of insects literally become addicted to what it is such as spider mites, thrips, whiteflies and being served in excess. In retrospect, indoor gardening is all about efficiency fungus gnats. This as well as quality. As a grower, if I can ventilation design use less CO2 to achieve the same results provides flexibility and also keep my garden healthier at to the user and the same time, why allows for a higher wouldn’t I? precision point So the answer to the ultimate question of environmental of whether or not to run a sealed room control. Not only is actually sort of simple. Keep the can carbon filters be temperature at 75 to 80°F with the cut off for extended lights on, humidity levels anywhere periods of time to from 30 to 45 per cent and at least 60 allow for optimal to 70 watts of light per square foot.

CO2 usage in the Don’t overuse CO2—less is always garden, but heat will also stay controlled more—and document all trial and error due to the fact that information. Whether your room is they are cooled from sealed or fully vented, if you as a grower an entirely separate are able to meet the specifications of the fan system. I have major grow room design pillars, success provided some will inevitably follow! MY

Maximum Yield USA | October 2010

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AVANT-GARDENING

Take 5 Modern gardening for the masses

This month’s things to know 1.

pH Stands for plantHealth

2.

Alluring and Endangered

Hydroponic plants require the proper pH level in order to absorb essential nutrients and grow healthy.

And measuring pH doesn’t have to be difficult or expensive. Here are the three most common ways of measuring pH in order of cost from the least expensive to the most expensive, plus the benefits and challenges of each.

Paper test strips: inexpensive, can be hard to read Liquid pH test kits: slightly more expensive than paper test strips, easier to read, extremely accurate and reliable Digital meters: most expensive of the three, available in many sizes and prices, handy and easy-to-use

Venus Flytraps live only in select boggy areas in North and South Carolina, specifically within a 60 mile radius of Wilmington, North Carolina (Wikipedia.org). People’s fascination with these insect-eating carnivores is causing them to become endangered. Thankfully they are one of the easiest carnivorous plants to grow. Gardeners are bringing them indoors, growing them in greenhouses and grow rooms.Venus Flytraps require wet roots, high humidity, lots of light and poor, acidic medium to thrive.

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3.

Lawn in my Living Room

The imaginative, design savvy (and wealthy) are taking home design to the extreme. Tree houses with a twist, homes that rotate 360° and curvaceous cribs are cropping up around the globe. Maybe the next big thing in extreme home design is custom hydro garden flooring.

Think about it. With the myriad technological advances available in our industry, a lawn in the living room may not be far off. What do you think?

4.

Green Teens

Hydroponics education is now being offered to high school students in Tennessee as part of the standard curriculum. The objective of the course is to “challenge students to plan for future food needs using advanced technologies and less space.” The course includes 10 chapters ranging from the history of hydroponics to the advantages of commercial hydroponics crops.

5

Guerrilla Gardening

According to worldchanging.com, guerrilla gardening is growing in popularity, especially in Los Angeles thanks to a company called Greenaid. Greenaid sells and rents seed bombing vending machines to business owners, educators and concerned citizens, and develops a seed mix and strategic neighborhood intervention plan for the unique ecologies of specific areas. Included with each seed bomb packet is a map of the best places to MY deposit the seed bombs in the L.A. area.

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by Philip McIntosh

CONSTRUCTION PART ONE: BASIC DESIGN & FLOORING

Building a hydroponic greenhouse from scratch can be puzzling, but thanks to the following simple steps, it doesn’t have to be. This article, the first of two, will discuss basic greenhouse design requirements and flooring considerations.

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Mid-sized and large-scale growing operations invariably take place outdoors or in greenhouses. This is because the cost of providing light in an enclosed space over a wide area is not economical. The free light energy provided by the sun—which is needed to drive photosynthesis—is just too good to pass up.

Even though the sun does reliably rise every day, Mother Nature is notoriously unpredictable in other ways. When it comes to growing with hydroponics, greenhouses are often chosen to

“Factors to be considered in greenhouse design and selection are location, space and construction methods and materials.” house crops not only because they let light in, but also because they offer protection from wind, precipitation, cold, heat, and to some extent, insects and other plant predators.

Greenhouses can be large or they can be small. They can be made from old-fashioned glass and wood, cheap PVC pipe and plastic sheeting, or they can incorporate the latest high tech materials. When building a greenhouse from the ground up, the choice of materials used in the design has both economic and biological implications. The method of construction and materials used must also be considered when shopping for and evaluating a pre-existing facility that includes a greenhouse.

The Hydroponic Greenhouse In general, hydroponic greenhouses must meet certain basic requirements. Factors to be considered in greenhouse design and selection are location, space and construction methods and materials.

Location is often the first variable addressed when planning a greenhouse. Since the major advantage of a greenhouse is its ability to let in natural sunlight, it is important to study and understand the light energy that will be available in a particular location. A good place to start is the website of the National Climatic Data Center (www.ncdc.noaa.gov). The center publishes data on the average number of days of sunshine for a selection of U.S. cities, which is good enough to get a general idea

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Greenhouse Construction - Part one of what to expect in most parts of the country. Assuming the light potential is good, a specific location analysis should then take into account any nearby tall buildings, trees and even hills that might affect the light striking a greenhouse at various times of the day.

Road access should be available and appropriate for the types of vehicles expected to service the facility. Large trucks need better and wider roads than small cars.

Zoning laws are the bane of many an entrepreneur. In many states, greenhouses are considered part of the agricultural infrastructure. In these situations, greenhouses are allowed in most places, including residential neighborhoods. Small towns or rural communities often have no restrictive zoning laws that would prevent a greenhouse from going up. Some states, however, classify greenhouses, especially large ones, as commercial buildings and this often leads to complications. It is important to research local zoning and permit laws regarding greenhouses before starting construction to make sure all requirements are met and approvals are obtained.

NCDC webpage

The first space consideration involves the floor space for the growing area. This is both method- and crop-dependent and will not be discussed further here, other than to stress the importance of making sure there is enough room to install the equipment so that plant spacing does not fall below the recommended minimum, and workers can both harvest the crops and maintain the systems with relative convenience.

Second, the ceiling height of a greenhouse may be important if tall plants will be suspended from above. If lettuce is the principle crop, sufficient headroom is needed for air circulation and walking about, but not much more.

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Greenhouse Construction - Part one Another thing to consider is auxbuilding. It is usually less expensive iliary space. Auxiliary space may be “Greenhouses [for hydroponics] are to construct a greenhouse with the desirable for equipment rooms, stor- often chosen...because they offer required auxiliary space than it is age of tools and supplies, office space protection from wind, precipitation, to add space after the fact. On the other hand, one can also start out or even specialized places like cold cold, heat, and to some extent, storage rooms. Such spaces certainly modestly and add on later when insects and other plant predators.” (and if) the money starts rolling in. add to the cost of a greenhouse, but in some cases the convenience of having such rooms attached Greenhouses need electrical power for pumps, controls and to or built into a greenhouse may be worth the additional lighting, perhaps a gas supply for heating and a water supply. No expense. Of course, these things should be thought about before greenhouse should be situated very far from a hookup to these constructing or essential utilities. purchasing a Greenhouse Floors Greenhouse floors will get wet, so whatever they are made of must be able to withstand intermittent moisture and occasionally a lot of water (in the case of a leak or major spill).

Hobbyists may choose natural material such as wood chips or bark because they are relatively cheap, easy to find and attractive, but wood chips are a poor choice for a serious commercial operation because they retain moisture and are a substrate for molds and bacteria. Wood planking is somewhat better since it can be treated with a preservative and is easily repaired in case of damage. Wood is usually most prized for its decorative

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Greenhouse Construction - Part one function, though, and commercial greenhouses are really better served by some form of non-organic, non-biodegradable floor.

If wood is chosen it should be either pressure treated or an engineered composite, or a rot-resistant type such as redwood, cedar or cypress.

Smooth gravel or crushed stone are non-biodegradable options that offer drainage to keep water from standing for too long.

“Wood is usually most prized for its decorative function, though, and commercial greenhouses are really better served by some form of nonorganic, non-biodegradable floor.”

However, under the gravel there is likely to be dirt (if there was concrete, why would you cover it with gravel?), which can harbor undesirable fungi, bacteria, and to a lesser extent, (because of poor light penetration) algae. Despite these risks, gravel or even sand is commonly seen, and many growers succeed with these kinds of floors without complications. One advantage of such floors is that it is convenient to install heating pipes in them.

Brick or stone is waterproof if grouted, and if not, allows drainage. Without grout, the same problems exist as for gravel

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Greenhouse Construction - Part one laid over dirt. Both stone and brick absorb and retain heat well, so this does offer something of an advantage in locations where days are sunny but nights are cool. Brick and stone are appealing to the eye, but this is seldom a concern in a facility designed for profit.

This brings us to concrete, which over the long term is by far the most practical floor material for a commercial greenhouse. Concrete is easy (although not necessarily inexpensive) to install and form to meet the needs of any desired floor plan.

It is waterproof, easy to sweep or hose off, and if installed on a slight incline, provides drainage to prevent standing water.

It can be slippery when wet, however, so it is best if a texture (like grooves or wavy lines) is pressed into the floor surface to provide traction.Vinyl or rubber floor mats are an additional non-skid option for high-traffic walkways and work areas.

A pre-existing facility with a dirt or gravel floor can be improved by using a polypropylene ground cover to inhibit growth of weeds and algae. Flexible fabric ground covers may be either non-permeable to prevent drainage or permeable to allow water through. In either case, a ground cover should be mildew resistant and provide increased reflection of light toward the underside of leaves—some ground covers are white to provide maximum reflectivity.

Part two of this article will cover the options and requirements for greenhouse frames and coverings. MY

References Anonymous; Building a Foundation; http:// www.littlegreenhouse.com/base/base.shtml (accessed September 1, 2010) Anonymous; Ranking of Cities based on % Annual Possible Sunshine in Descending Order from Most to Least Average Possible Sunshine; <http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/oa/climate/online/ ccd/pctposrank.txt> (Accessed August 31, 2010) Bartok, John W.; Will The Zoning Commission Approve Your Greenhouse Project? University of Connecticut, Cooperative Extension System; <http://www.hort.uconn.edu/ipm/greenhs/bartok/htms/ZoningApprovalforGreenhouse.htm> (Accessed September 1, 2010) Miller, Jason; Greenhouse Flooring Options; <http://www.greenhouses.net/greenhousegardening/2008/8/16/greenhouse-flooringoptions.html> (accessed August 31, 2010) 86

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BEGINNER’S CORNER

CLIMATE

by Réal Adam and Isabelle Lemay

CONTROL

Keep the Stomas Open Plants are living organisms with failsafe mechanisms encoded in their DNA to survive the ever-changing climate conditions in a natural outdoor environment.They act a bit like each species has its own personality, and they are sort of moody when it comes to climate conditions.

Plants breathe through stomas, mainly located on the lower surface of leaves.These stomas act like two-way valves to let air in, and expel unwanted gases and water vapor from transpiration.When a climate condition is threatening to 90

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damage a part of or the whole plant, the stomas close. Even if light, water and nutrients are available in abundant quantity and quality, when the stomas shut the photosynthesis stops, as does all growth and blooming.The plant maturation stops until the climate variable that caused the stomas to close gets back into the appropriate range for the plant to comfortably carry out photosynthesis and growth.

So, climate conditions are important to plants, and climate control in a closed environment is a must. If

temperatures are too hot or too cold, or if the relative humidity is too low, growth stops.

When relative humidity is too high transpiration is slowed, so water and nutrient absorption slows accordingly. Relative humidity going too high is also a concern because of the risk of pests like fungi and bacteria, which will attack plants if allowed to develop.

“So many species of plants will react, grow and mature faster at higher levels of carbon dioxide.” carbon dioxide intake in the presence of light.That’s why it is important to maintain at least minimum ventilation with fresh air to supply the plants with carbon dioxide as it is drawn and used. Climate control is obviously important to maintaining proper conditions for growing plants at a sustained high rate in a closed room.

When plants first appeared on Earth and evolved into the various species, carbon dioxide levels were much higher than they are now.These concentrations of CO2 were certainly above 1,000 parts per million (ppm), compared to the 400 ppm average that can be measured outdoors today in a highly urbanized area. So many species of plants will react, grow and mature faster at higher levels of carbon dioxide.That’s why carbon dioxide enrichment is extensively used by growers, providing more building material for the plant to transform into biomass and to get MY faster and higher yield results.

How Important is CO2?

Basically, when stomas close the carbon intake from breathing carbon dioxide shuts down and the plant is deprived of this important source of building material for the cells. Plants are made up of organic chains composed of oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and carbon. If any of these atoms are unavailable in the right proportions, tissue building and growth are slowed to use just what’s available. Since hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen may come from water pumped through the roots, carbon dioxide from the air becomes central to further fast growth. Proper temperature and relative humidity will keep the stomas open for Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

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Life and the Sea: Sea Solids in Agriculture Part Two

Many years ago we started to work out the amount of sea solids that could be used both in hydroponic solutions or spread on the soil. After many years of trial and error, we did work it out, and now we’ve been able to grow any crop that we’ve ever tried on soil or solution containing total sea solids—sodium chloride and all.

by Dr. Maynard Murray

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Life and the Sea Part Two  My interest in this thing was to find out if I could grow a plant that was healthier and better to feed to animals— in other words, fertilization that would make the plants healthier. I think it was 1970 when the corn blight swept our

“Center rot in turnips is a good thing to experiment with, because it’s caused by staph infections.” country here. We could see in the fields with sea solids amendment right to the row where the corn was absolutely immune to the blight. Now we do the same thing with corn smut, a fungus of corn.You can see right up to the row where you put the sea solids. This works not only with corn, but also with many other crops.

We’ve worked with viral diseases—for example Tobacco Mosaic Virus, Tomato Mosaic Virus, Peachtree ‘curly leaf ’— and find that we can produce a plant that is immune to them. We’ve had some nice results. We have also built up resistance very nicely to crown rusts, corn smut, et cetera.

How about bacterial infections? Center rot in turnips is a good thing to experiment with, because it’s caused by staph infections—same kind of a bug that produces boils and staph pneumonia. We can indeed build up significant immunity to staph infections, viral and fungal infections in plants.

This is all very nice, but what happens when we feed these plants to animals?

When we grow corn, wheat, oats, et cetera, and feed them to animals experimentally, we do see some changes that are very interesting, and we think

are quite all right. We are at the present time and have in the past experimented with animals with cancer.

You have to be very careful before you publish anything on cancer prevention or cure, because, as we know, in science there can be a lot of flukes. One thing can happen one time, but the

“We can indeed build up significant immunity to staph infections, viral and fungal infections in plants.” next time it won’t happen quite that way. A common experimental animal is the C3H mouse, which spontaneously gets from 97 to 100 per cent cancer of the breast. By feeding C3H mice food grown with sea solids, we have been able to cut down cancer in the first generation from 97 to 55 per cent. That’s a

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Life and the Sea Part Two significant drop. We seem to be able to do that almost invariably. Sometimes it’ll be a little more that 55 per cent. Now we are running more generations, and we are finding that with each generation we are building up more and more resistance to this one kind of cancer in mice.

We have also experimented with leukosis in chickens, what we call leukemia in people. There we get a significant drop just by feeding. The only variable is the fact that one part of the field has the sea

“We are at the present time and have in the past experimented with animals with cancer.” solids on it, the other has ordinary fertilizer. The crops are harvested the same day, everything is ground the same day to prevent the loss of vitamins, and so forth.

In other words, the only variable that we know of is this sea solid. In leukosis or leukemia in chickens, we have again shown a nice response, a nice resistance built up in the chicken to this kind of cancer, cancer of the white blood cells.

Sarcoma in chickens is another kind of cancer that kills

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very rapidly. If you inject the chicken with sarcoma, it will kill them in five days. We have not achieved any results at all using so-called Rous sarcoma chickens. I don’t know why.

We’ve fed our chickens two weeks before we gave them the sarcoma, give them the sarcoma, and they’d all be dead within five days. We feed them the regular food, give them the sarcoma, and they’d all be dead within five days. We haven’t done one thing for them that we know of, but we still want to carry on, of course. And we will continue with this type of experimentation.

We have experimented with arthritis in rats. Now you probably know rheumatoid arthritis—I’m not saying that we can do this in human beings yet because we haven’t, but I can say that arthritis in rats can be cured. We cannot only cure the animal if he’s got some of his tissue left in the joint, but we can also prevent arthritis in rats that are bred to get the disease. Just by feeding. So you see what a tremendous thing proper nutrition is. I just think the

farmers are the greatest. They are really the beginning of preventive medicine. The farm soil—that’s where it starts; that’s what it’s all about.

We have fed other animals—pigs, cattle, et cetera—food grown on sea solids. Let me tell you about a cow. I can’t understand it, but if you grow green corn— with the sea solids and without—and cut it and toss it over the field for the cow to eat, they can nuzzle through a whole bunch of corn and invariably pick out the one that’s grown on the sea solids.

Why? I don’t know. But they do the same if you grow grass or anything like

“By feeding C3H mice food grown with sea solids, we have been able to cut down cancer in the first generation from 97 to 55 per cent.”

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Life and the Sea Part Two

that. They always choose the one that’s grown on the sea solids, with the sea solid fertilizer. I don’t know what sense they use, but they know how to get it. And they always do.

less silver and less manganese in it than ‘normal-colored’ hair.

We know that aging does produce chemical changes in our body, and that brings me to what really interests us in our overall experiment. We’ve got some experiments going using 8,000 acres of land. Hopefully we’re going to increase that to around 25,000 acres using sea solids. If we do, we’re going to divide a children’s home containing 1,000 kids. We’re going to start feeding half of them sea solid foods and half regular and run a longitudinal study on these kids to see what change we can produce—number of colds, weight gain, IQ, et cetera.

We have done some superficial exper-

“We have experimented with arthritis in rats. Now you probably know rheumatoid arthritis—I’m not saying that we can do this in human beings yet because we haven’t, but I can say that arthritis in rats can be cured.”

You may have heard that a gray horse always dies of a cancer but a black one never does. Interesting. But no one really knows why this is. In addition, the grayer the horse is, the faster he dies— the younger he dies of cancer, a certain kind, called melanotic melanoma. It’s a pigment-producing cancer that can arise in a human being from a birthmark or a mole. That’s the kind of a cancer a gray horse gets, but a black one never does. In analyzing their blood, you do indeed find that there are minute, very minute differences in the amount of manganese that the gray and the black horse have, which could explain this business of why one gets cancer and the other doesn’t at all. We do know that when we get gray hair, it’s not because our hair turns to silver. It’s because it loses silver. Gray hair has 100

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iments with animals in which we’ve seen a small increase in intelligence.

You may know that by injecting DNA, this chemical in the nucleus of an animal, you can educate an animal.You can also extract this education and give it by injection to another animal. We’re just starting that kind of work.

Now as you probably know, if I take a piece of my tissue and put it in

tissue culture, I can grow it, and it will divide 50 times. In other words, one cell will produce two, two will produce four, et cetera. Regardless of what we’ve tried, we have not been able to cause more than 50 reproductions of cells. The number of reproductions varies with different kinds of animals: a mouse, 17; a rat, 23; human being, 50; and so forth. It seems strange that this happens on land but doesn’t happen in the sea.You take a sperm whale that’s 60 to 100 years of age, but this whale’s cells will keep right on multiplying. Seals, all warm-blooded animals in the sea will do this. All cold-blooded animals that we’ve tested in the sea do so.

Take a sea trout, for instance, which never gets cancer. If you take his tissue and put it in tissue culture, it just keeps dividing and dividing.

“We do know that when we get gray hair, it’s not because our hair turns to silver. It’s because it loses silver.”

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Life and the Sea Part Two

On the other hand, with freshwater trout in Minnesota, Wisconsin, et cetera—as many as 60 per cent of them have cancer of the liver—in tissue culture medium, their tissue stops dividing at 23 to 27 times. His first cousin in the sea never stops. So far we’ve found that the tissues of sea animals, both warm- and coldblooded, never stop multiplying in tissue culture. No cancer has ever been found in the sea—yet.

Their relatives on land, of course, have cancer very often. This is true of all socalled infectious diseases by virus, bacteria and fungi.

It is for that reason that we have carried on this research.

We’re continuing to do so. MY

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GREEN THUMB GARDENING

Raising the Green Roof

by Charlene Rennick

Green roofs are gaining new ground in higher places. In some areas, millions of feet of gardens have been anchored onto the top of city buildings. Many of these living green rooftops can be found across the North America.

120 mph. The building has rain catchers on the roof and a 15,000 gallon cistern buried underground. Most of the water they use comes from the cistern and is re-used after being cleaned.

A project in the South Bronx, New York is combatting food miles and food deserts at the same time, growing fresh, nutritious vegetables in a 10,000 square foot rooftop greenhouse on top of a six story affordable housing project. The BrightFarm rooftop greenhouse harvests rainwater from the building for irrigation, and used waste heat from the residences below to keep the plants warm. Residents enjoy fresh, nutritious food grown right above them (the farm is said to be capable of producing fresh vegetables for up to 450 people).

Green Roofs Save Money Cultivating green, living plants on urban rooftops lowers climate control costs by about 10 per cent. This dense, leafy insulator helps to control the temperature by absorbing some of the excess moisture in the air during the hottest part of the year and provides a buffer against the coldest extremes of temperature throughout the winter months.

Living rooftops are gaining momentum as a sustainable energy resource.

Plants protect the exterior of the building from the wear and tear of

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Atop the new brick building attached to the renovated Garden Theatre in downtown Orlando is the future of urban farming. From floor to ceiling, Green Sky Growers is a rooftop hydroponic garden consisting of gourmet lettuce, cucumbers, cherry tomatoes and basil. The urban farm also grows thousands of small tilapia fry in an aquaponics system. The garden makes use of wasted urban space and the plants grow bigger and faster than traditional crops. The 3,000 square foot research and demonstration garden is hurricaneresistant, built to withstand winds up to

wind-related erosion, beautify the innercity landscape, act as a sound barrier and help to break up heat trapped in densely populated urban core areas. Living green rooftops lower the carbon footprint. The success of green technology rooftops has generated interest in developing living walls.

Living Walls: An Extension of Green Roofs As opposed to the damage caused to the outer walls by ivy or vertical vines and creepers, green living walls do not adhere directly onto the exterior of the building. Living green walls are constructed in modules that are attached to the outside of the existing wall. This is similar to a trellis, except that they are often square and can be stacked upward in symmetrical columns supported by a mesh of sturdy wire. Living walls are rare in many countries. Concern has been presented that green walls may attract insects (bees) and birds. Plants used in the design of green living walls are deliberately selected from

non-flowering and non-fruit-bearing varieties in order to avoid attracting insects with sweet pollens and bright colors.

Careful pruning, removing dead leaves and discouraging thicker branch growth will create unfavorable conditions for nesting birds. While the inner city walls are better suited for hardy, vertical climbing plants, ferns, grasses, dracaena and other similar species, green rooftops can also be used to grow vegetables and herbs. Urban rooftops can produce healthy rosemary, parsley, sage, thyme, mint, lettuce, onions, radishes and chives. Sweet clover, impatiens, pansies, heather and lobelia varieties lend themselves well as an environmental insulator and flourish well throughout fluctuations in temperature.

To learn more about green roofs and other hydroponic topics visit www.simply-hydroponics.com MY

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A

$ olid Investment:

Gourmet Hydroponics Lettuce Garden

by Casey Jones Fraser

You too can have gourmet lettuce like this! Lusher, crisper and more nutrientrich, and at a fraction of the cost you would pay in the grocery store. How? With hydroponics. Where? In your living room. When? Today.

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Let’s face it, hydroponics can get a little bit expensive; then again, so can golf.

But why should gardeners plunk down hard earned cash for their favorite hobby in this tough economy? Well, I did the math, and even a small hydroponics garden can make good economic sense.You will also reap the health benefits of eating fresh, high-quality produce.

My wife and I eat at least a couple of salads every week. Iceberg lettuce gets boring, so we opt for a mix of gourmet greens. When possible, we always get organically grown leaf lettuce and other mixed leafy greens. We are not alone in our quest for the best possible salad base.

Produce departments continue to stock increased numbers of the vitamin rich leaves. Unfortunately, premium produce comes at a premium price.

So the question is, can a small indoor garden provide the same quantity and quality of mixed salad greens? And more importantly, can it be done without spending more on the garden than you would on the salads?

I set out to answer these questions, and maybe a few others. My wife, Heather, set out to make sure I didn’t flood the living room carpet. The idea of a hydroponics garden, complete with grow lights, sounds about as homey as a Petri dish. I had to make it safe, and I had to make it look good.

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A Solid Investment

Ready, Set, Grow!

A couple of trips to the hydro store and hardware store, and I have everything I need.

Shopping List: • 16 soilless growing cubes (three inches) • two pumps (160 gph) • bucket and lid • organic seeds • ebb-and-flow tray (one foot by 3.5 feet) • hose and fittings • high output T5 grow light (four feet, four tubes, 6500K) • organic nutrients (one quart) • organic catalyst with seaweed and vitamins (one quart) • organic compost solution (one quart) • air pump and air stone

I took a four foot folding table out of the basement and covered it with a flower-embroidered tablecloth (Heather approves)! The table goes under the new T5 fixture. The ebb-andflow tray sits on the tablecloth. I crowd the entire set-up with houseplants, orchids, Bonsai trees and cacti. The living room looks nicer than it did before I started. Score!

Now that the garden is aesthetically pleasing, the next step is a safe and reliable watering setup. Ebb-and-Flow is effective, easy and unlikely to fail. If you are not familiar with ebb-and-flow hydroponics (also known as fill-and-drain), just ask the sales team at your local hydroponics store.You’ll be surprised at how simple it really is.

Step 1. Soak and rinse growing cubes Soak your growing cubes in a 5.5 pH solution for an hour, and then rinse with fresh pH adjusted water.

*Note: Get your tray custom drilled for the fittings. A good hydro shop will drill it at no cost.

Preparations for the gourmet lettuce garden include drilling a hole in the lid for fill and drain tubing; threading tubing through the lid into the reservoir; filling the reservoir with water to desired height; and creatively hiding the set-up with greenery.

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A Solid Investment

Step 2. Plant seeds Shove a few seeds into the three inch growing blocks. Plant the seeds in a square pattern: four holes, half an inch from the edge of the cube, and two seeds in each whole. That’s eight seeds per three inch cube, which may sound like too much, but you will be harvesting leaves as the plants grow. I used 16 of the three inch cubes.

Always plant lettuce seeds a mere ¼ inches into the medium. Lettuce prefers the shallow planting for the tiny seeds. Any type of loose leaf lettuce will work, but I chose the following varieties for this particular garden: Red oak Leaf, Black Seed Simpson, Arugula, Ruben’s Red Romaine and others from a Mesclun salad mix.

After a few days, the lettuce seeds will sprout, and young leaves will start to emerge. It’s now time to set up the fill-and-drain system with pumps and a reservoir.

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Heather picks some fresh greenery to munch on.

“Always plant lettuce seeds a mere ¼ inches into the medium. Lettuce prefers the shallow planting for the tiny seeds.“

A Solid Investment pumps. The air pump stays on to keep the solution aerated. Once every two weeks, the reservoir is dumped and a new solution is mixed. I use the old solution to feed houseplants, so there is no waste.

The big payoff In three weeks we start picking lettuce leaves. That is some of the best salad mix ever. With little effort, Heather and I are eating four salads per week, plus lettuce on sandwiches, and all the leaves we eat when walking past the garden. Maybe I’m crazy, but I think my skin is looking healthier. Why didn’t I build this garden sooner?

The math and the money

Step 4. Hydro plumbing For this step you will need a bucket (with lid), a drill and the hydroponic components from the shopping list. I had a small hydroponics reservoir in my basement, but you can get the classic five gallon bucket and a lid for around $6 at the hardware store.

Drill three holes in the lid: one for the ½ inch fill line, one for the ¾ inch overflow line and one smaller one for the air stone.

The tray has been pre-drilled at the local hydro shop, and the drain-and-fill fittings attach easily. The ½ inch fitting and tubing connect to a 160 gph pump; this is the fill line. The ¾ inch fitting and tubing are routed straight into the reservoir; this is your overflow line (no flooding the living room). Add the air stone connected to a small air pump via ¼ inch tubing.

I measure exact amounts of water and pour it into the reservoir. After wiping the surface dry, I use a permanent marker to designate five gallon and 10 gallon levels inside my reservoir.

For five gallon buckets, measure and mark at the 2.5 gallon and five gallon levels. This extra step will make nutrient measuring precise and easy.

Step 5. Nutrients I add my nutrients and supplements to the reservoir water at the “seedling rate” suggested on the bottles. During this process, I have the additional water pump (160 gph) sitting in the reservoir, mixing up the solution. This pump is not attached to a hose; it just keeps the hydroponic solution well blended.

To water my garden, I plug in the fill pump and the tray begins to flood with water. Once the water fills the tray, excess solution drains back into the reservoir via the overflow. I return and shut off the mixing pump and the fill pump 15 minutes later. The tray drains and the plants look happy.

Every morning I turn on the mixing pump, and then the fill pump while I make coffee. When I’m done, I shut off the

We are consuming at least $15 worth of lettuce each week.

The shopping list for this small project totaled $320. That means we break even in less than six months. If we keep this up for a year, we come out way ahead on our grocery bills.

Hydroponics doesn’t seem so expensive anymore. It’s more like a solid investment, because we can grow something for less than we would pay for it in the grocery store. An added benefit is that the quality of homegrown plant material is often higher than what you can buy. So do the math the next time you price-shop premium gardening products.You may find they are well worth the sticker price when you reap a large harvest of valuable produce. MY

Lettuce Garden Analysis Shopping List Cost High Output T5 Grow light $150.00 Organic nutrients $19.00 Organic Catalyst with Seaweed and Vitamins $27.50 Organic compost solution $14.00 Air pump and air stone $10.00 16 soilless growing cubes $9.50 Two pumps $28.00 Bucket and lid $6.00 Organic seeds $3.00 Ebb-and-flow tray $40.00 Hose and fitting $13.00 Total Cost $320.00

Salad Greens Yield Weekly salad greens consumption $15.00

Six Months @ $15/week

Total Value $390.00

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FERTILIZERS OR ADDITIVES… OR BOTH?

by William Texier

Part 1 Having navigated the indoor gardening industry for many years, I have come to realize the difficulties faced by many cultivators in differentiating between a fertilizer and an additive. In truth, it comes down to the plant’s needs and wants. Hydroponic plants need fertilizer for sustenance. They want additives for accelerated growth, improved health and pest and disease resistance. This article helps you navigate the more common additives available on the market today so you can give your garden everything it wants and needs this winter.

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“Additives are products that have a function other than nourishing the plant. They promote and accelerate growth while improving the general health of the plant and its resistance to insects and pathogenic diseases.”

The difference is both fundamental and simple: a plant requires variable quantities of mineral salts to nourish itself. Any product that provides mineral salts, whether it is the primary or secondary source or a micro-element, is a fertilizer. This fertilizer is necessary to sustain the plant, and in hydroponics is the

sole source of nutrition. If it is a complete fertilizer, not only is it necessary but also sufficient, because it provides the plant everything it needs for its metabolism. Both in theory and in practice you can have very healthy plants and a rich harvest using a complete fertilizer on its own. So why use additives? Additives are products that have a function other than nourishing the plant. They promote and accelerate growth while improving the general health of the plant and its resistance to insects and pathogenic diseases. Generally, they either function by providing

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Fertilizers or Additves...or both? the plant with ready-made molecules—thus saving energy, which can be used elsewhere—or they give signals to the plant to increase its metabolism. There are several kinds of additives, and they often have multiple functions and results.

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Silicate In order for an element to be considered indispensable to a plant, there has to be evidence of a deficiency in the plant caused by the absence of the element. With modern hydroponics it became possible to create deficiencies in a plant’s nutrition by isolating one element or another. This is how a list of mineral salts essential to various plants’ lives was established.

This test was never carried out on silica though, essentially because it is such an abundant element in soil that it is difficult to create an environment without it. However, there are strong indications that silica is actually an essential element. In any case, it has a number of functions in plants: in solution, it is absorbed by the plant in the form of silicic acid, which penetrates the cells and strengthens their structure. This means plants are more resistant to insects, which find it difficult to pierce the cell walls and tend instead to go for plants that are easier to attack. But silica has other advantages too: in the nutritive solution it helps to stabilize the pH, and also protects the roots from pathogenic

“...it has a number of functions in plants: in solution, it is absorbed by the plant in the form of silicic acid, which penetrates the cells and strengthens their structure. This means plants are more resistant to insects.“ fungi such as Pythium and Fusarium by killing their spores on contact. Silica can be found in either liquid or powder form. As a liquid it comes in the form of potassium silicate, which is generally an effective way of providing silica, although limited by the poor solubility of potassium silicate in the levels of pH used in nutritive solutions. As a powder it comes in silica clay, which is very rich in silicate and contains a number of useful trace elements. This clay can be used externally in powdered form on foliage applications or around the root to prevent a fungal attack, or internally, in the nutritive solution, to be absorbed by the plant. Adding silica does not provide a spectacular result because it is, after all, a preventive substance. However, an informed cultivator will quickly realize that with a silica additive his plants are healthier than usual, more pest and disease resistant and have a more stable pH.

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Fertilizers or Additves...or both?

“The humate family is divided into three fractions according to their molecular weight: humic acid—with the highest molecular weight—ulmic acid and fulvic acid, a molecule that has a much shorter chain but numerous active sites.“

Humates These are a large family of molecules that have similar characteristics, and are defined by the way in which they are extracted rather than by a chemical structure. Humates are the result of the decomposition of organic matter, and are found in the ground. The humates represent only a small portion of the matter that was decomposed; the remainder consists of other

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minerals that the plant uses for nourishment. The humate family is divided into three fractions according to their molecular weight: humic acid—with the highest molecular weight—ulmic acid and fulvic acid, a molecule that has a much shorter chain but numerous active sites.

The chemistry of humates is complex and more than a million different molecules are listed in this category, but they have

common points with respect to both their composition and structure. In fact, humates make up the active element of the soil, and when you add them, whether into soil or into a nutritive solution, you increase the plant’s activity.

Obviously, not all humic or fulvic acidbased products on the market are the same. This means that the concentration of the active matter is of no help to us, because the activity does not depend on the concentration but on the source of the product. The acids are often extracted from a rock called leonardite, but not all leonardite deposits are the same and numerous tests must first be performed on the cultures to determine the most effective product. The action of these acids is incredibly diversified: first, in soil, they increase water retention capacity, improve ventilation, enhance texture, prevent drying out in case of drought, make the soil lighter and help prevent erosion. On a chemical level, they keep the elements insoluble in the root area and they encourage the conversion of some of these elements into a form easily assimilated by plants, then “release” them so that the plant can absorb them.

They also have a strong ionic exchange capacity—both anions and cations— which acts as a buffer in soil as well as in the nutritive solution, and they increase the quantity of nitrate in the soil. Finally, they are rich in organic matters and mineral substances indispensable to the plant’s growth. On a biological level, these acids stimulate the metabolism, accelerating cell division and activating growth in the root area. They increase the germination rate of seeds, facilitate the assimilation of nutrients, boost

“On a biological level, [humic and fulvic] acids stimulate the metabolism, accelerating cell division and activating growth in the root area.”

microbial life in soil, aid photosynthesis, increase root respiration and stimulate enzymatic activity. This impressive range of results has helped to boost the popularity of humates among gardeners and horticulturists. Humates are used for watering soil or can be dissolved in the nutritive solution, but they are just as effective for foliar spraying. Subject to finding a good quality product, humates—and particularly fulvic acid, the most active—are still my favorite additives for improving the health of plants and the quantity and quality of the harvest. No other product offers a range of actions as wide and diversified. Moreover, humates are a natural product, one of the essential elements of soil, and can be used in organic cultivation too.

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Fertilizers or Additves...or both?

Boosters As the name implies, these are compounds that activate the metabolism of a plant. Boosters comprise a large family of products and they come in various types: growth boosters, flowering boosters, rooting boosters and so on. The technical term is actually elicitors, and most of the time they are natural extracts from plants. A large number of plants synthesize molecules that are not directly linked to their metabolism. Some of these molecules are useful for plant survival—for instance, they can give the plant a bitter taste, making them less palatable for grazing animals, or they can help the plant survive temperature fluctuations. They are also the chemical weapons used by plants in their never-ending fight for space, light and food.

Although the benefit for the plant is clear in the case of many of these booster molecules, the reason why the plant spends

“Cut some young twigs of willow about four inches long and soak them in water for a few days. You can then use that water as a root booster by watering your cuttings with it or by soaking the stem of cuttings in that water before putting them in place.”

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energy to manufacture some of them—referred to under the generic name of secondary metabolites—is actually far from obvious. These include essential oils, tannins, alkaloids, latex, glycosides, terpens and many others. These secondary metabolites provide us with a number of medicines, essential oils and resins, as well as tannins for leather, natural insecticides, spices and flavors for the kitchen and much more. Nature provides us with thousands of these compounds and a single plant species can produce a large variety of them. It is among the secondary metabolites that we find the building blocks for the boosters, which are extracted from one plant or another according to the desired effect. Here is a simple example that anybody can try: willow contains molecules that will help a cutting during the rooting stage. Cut some young twigs of willow about four inches long and soak them in water for a few days.You can then use that water as a root booster by watering your cuttings with it or by soaking the stem of cuttings in that water before putting them in place.You will be amazed how efficient the maceration can be! According to the plant that you choose for extraction as well as the process used, you can achieve a large spectrum of effects. Generally speaking, not only do boosters increase a plant’s intake capacity for nutritional elements but can also help to move them inside the plant. Boosters can also promote the growth of a vigorous root system, improving the general health of the plant as well as its capacity to fight harmful fungi and pathogens. On top of this internal effect, boosters also play a part in the surroundings of the plant, tending to favor the development of beneficial micro-organisms in the root zone.

Elicitors are still a novelty in the agricultural world, however. At first, they were used primarily by greenhouse growers, nurseries and plant collectors on plants, which generated a large added value, but they are now slowly starting to gain ground in field agriculture. Although they can be expensive, in many cases the economic benefits of using elicitors largely offsets their cost, and it is regulations rather than price that are slowing down research progress. At the same time, it is a sad truth that lobbies from large chemical groups are not keen to see natural elicitors coming on MY the market and displacing some of their own products.

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NUTRIENT ABSORPTION & the ph Influence

by Charlotte Bradley

WHY WORRY ABOUT PH LEVELS?

In order to ensure the success of your hydroponics project, it is essential to maintain the pH and nutrient concentrations. Unlike soil based gardening where nutrients are supplied in varying concentrations depending upon the soil type, fertilizer, etc, in hydroponics, the nutrients are supplied in a much more controlled way by the gardener.

When the pH level of the nutrient solution is correct, your plants will be able to absorb the optimal proportion of nutrients.

You will avoid over fertilization, giving your plants the opportunity to flourish and produce maximum yields. Generally, the pH level should be between 5.8 and 6.3.

Tip: For ease and accuracy, use a digital pH meter.

MACRONUTRIENTS AND MICRONUTRIENTS The concentrations of macronutrients and micronutrients can be controlled by careful dilution of the nutrient mix. This mix is typically measured using an EC (Electrical Conductivity) meter.

Choose a nutrient mix that contains all the essential minerals. The essential minerals are: 1. Nitrogen 2. Phosphorus 3. Calcium 4. Sulphur 5. Potassium 6. Magnesium 7. Manganese

8. Iron 9. Copper 10. Boron 11. Zinc 12. Chlorine 13. Molybdenum

Tip: Nutrient mixtures typically come formulated for either the growth phase or the bloom phase; make sure you use the right one.

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YOU TELL US

Paul Maire, owner of TieBoss, explains the various uses of the “world’s easiest tiedown” for use in grow rooms and other applications, and the safety features and design elements that make TieBoss easy to use and superior quality.

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Maximum Yield (MY): What indoor gardening applications can the Tie Boss be used for?

MY: What various product designs do you have available and how do they uniquely benefit gardeners?

Paul Maire: Hanging lights, fans and filters are the most common. The TieBoss offers a simple way to make raising and lowering lights, filters and more safe and easy. Operating like a venetian blind, you have complete control while safely raising and lowering from ground level.

No need to worry about holding a 150 pound filter while balancing on a ladder.

Paul: The TieBoss is available in a number of sizes (¼ inches, ⅜ inches, TieBoss Pulley and TieBoss Block and Tackle) to accommodate a variety of tasks and requirements. The TieBoss Pulley and TieBoss Block and Tackle can handle a maximum load of 275 pounds, making 240 pounds feel like 80. Whether stabilizing an overloaded wheelbarrow

MY: What safety features have been manufactured into the Tie Boss design?

Paul: The TieBoss is engineered to set, lock and release with one hand. What makes the Tie Boss so unique is the integration of a jam/clam cleat as the lock and release mechanism. The more pressure applied (weight), the deeper the solid braided rope is clenched in the teeth of the cleat.

There is also a locking tab as a safety measure when using the TieBoss as a tie-down.

MY: What design elements have been used to ensure superior excellence and ease-of-use?

Paul: The clam cleat technology, used and proven by sailors for years, is the basic concept.There are no moving parts to jam or break; just simple, safe, onehanded operation.The TieBoss is manufactured with industrial strength glass-filled nylon that is sonic welded and secured with zinc coated steel bolts. It also stands up to water and humidity that comes with grow room territory for year round use.TieBoss is guaranteed to be job tough, plus it operates

or raising hot lights, the TieBoss will make your job safer and easier.

Many times we have had growers tell us they are amazed at just how easy hanging lights and filters becomes when employing the use of the patented TieBoss. For heavier loads, pulleys can be added to create a mechanical advantage.

Adding one pulley makes a 100 pound filter feel like it is only 50 pounds. Add a second pulley and your kitten can probably lift it.

silently with no annoying ratchet clicking or vibrating straps.

MY: What multifunctional purposes does the Tie Boss serve in addition to gardening applications?

Paul: TieBoss can be used wherever you need to secure or hang something: tie downs (inside and outside vehicles, trailers, etc.), ATVs, camping, hunting, storage and more. The TieBoss can help you clean up your garage by lifting bikes, canoes, kayaks, etc. up and out of the way.

Use it to lift tree stands, paint buckets, lawn furniture, ladders, game, ice fishing houses, coolers and birdhouses. Use it to tie down boat covers, building materials, hay bails, lawn equipment, lumber, motorcycles, propane tanks, tents and awnings, trunk lids and watercrafts.

MY: What instructions can you recommend to growers to ensure safety and ease-of-use?

Paul: Make sure the rope is set well in the teeth before releasing. When lifting and lowering, the rope does not need to be set in the locking tab. Due to the design of the TieBoss, the more pressure put on by the load, the deeper the rope gets pulled into the teeth and the MY stronger the hold.

All TieBoss systems, including the popular 3⁄8” and 1⁄4”, utilize the proven cam cleat technology. With no moving parts, the TieBoss allows for a simple, safe, one-handed operation.

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TIPS & TRICKS

To achieve maximum yields it is essential to maintain a plant’s shape and remove any unnecessary or damaged growth. This is most important when growing indoors under artificial lights.

Shaping Plants for Artificial Lighting When growing under artificial lights (HID or fluorescent), light is best utilized by keeping plants short.

This can be achieved by pruning and training.

Pruning: Once the initial three or four true leaves have formed, a plant can be made to possess two or more main stems by removing the terminal growing tip (figure 1a). The new main stems will grow from the axillary buds located at the remaining leaf nodes (Figs. 1a and 1b) Apart from being shorter than a single-stemmed plant of the same age, multiple stems allow a classic gobletshaped structure to form (figure 3a). This shape generally permits better airflow and light penetration throughout the foliage.

Photosynthesis takes place mainly in young maturing leaves. Older leaves and those partly shaded photosynthesize less, thus drawing on the nutrition from young maturing leaves for their survival. For this reason, it is worthwhile removing the lower, older foliage.

Fig 2 To help prevent disease transfer, always sterilize tools before use.

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This practice is most relevant when growing under artificial lighting because the lower growth is furthest from the light and therefore has the least potential to photosynthesize and be of benefit to the remainder of the plant.

For many species, major structural pruning should only be conducted during the vegetative phase. Unless there is overcrowding or Fig 1a To use HID lighting more efficiently, remove the terminal damaged growth, growing tip. This will produce a short avoid stressing plants and bushy (multi-stemmed) plant. by pruning during flowering. Plant stress can be minimized by conducting major pruning in stages— allow plants to rest for a week or so between prunes.

Training: Upward growth can be Fig 1b Axillary buds will grow to restrained by from vegetative or floral growth, or erecting netting at an a combination of both appropriate height.

Once plants reach the netting they can either be: • Trained to grow horizontally (figure 3b). Many plant species will respond to this treatment by producing floral growth at the point where the stem is bent beneath the net.

• Allowed to grow through the netting (figure 3a). However, if they grow too tall they can be bent down under the netting again.

Note: Pruning/training/shaping requirements will vary from one plant species to another. For specific advice ask your local grow shop or nursery.

Fig 3 Netting can be used to support heavy top growth or to prevent plants from growing too high.

Overcrowded growth: Removing dense growth will allow better airflow and light penetration throughout the foliage. This will enable fruit to ripen more quickly.

Fig 4a Correct pruning technique: The “collar” mark is usually visible on woody growth.

Cut immediately in front of this.

This cut will heal quicker and minimize the risk of pest attack and disease ingress.

Fig 4a Poor pruning technique: This style of pruning is slower to heal and attracts pest and disease problems.

Damaged growth: Broken, dying or dead growth is susceptible to disease and pest attack and therefore should be promptly removed from the plant and the growing area.

Pruning Techniques To minimize the threat of pests and diseases, use the following guidelines when pruning: Where to cut: When pruning, ensure that the cut is both neat and close to the stem (figure 4a). Doing this will help ensure that the cut heals quickly and completely, thereby minimizing the risk

Plant Support In many plant species, especially heavily fruiting plants, support mechanisms are needed to prevent the stem from breaking. Stem support can be achieved using the following methods: 1. Netting: Wide mesh netting stretched across the growing area acts as Fig 5 Support mechanisms for plants. a support once the plant grows through it (figure 5a).

However, this method will inhibit physical access to the plants where it is done over a large area.

2. String: String that is hung from a ceiling support and tied to the stem is especially effective for tall plants. The string is simply wound around the stem as the plant grows in height (figure 5b). Use a coarse grade of string to minimize the threat of it cutting into the stem.

3. Stakes: Rigid stakes can be used where plants are grown in pots. To avoid damaging the roots, position the stakes prior MY to planting.

of disease and pest attack (figure 4b).

Pruning tools: Suitable tools for pruning include secateurs or a sharp blade. For a neat and clean cut, tools should be sharp and sterilized with bleach prior to use.

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l t a i n t n a l e P Pot th w ro g G m din u m xi r Fee a M olia F

h t i w

One simple technique can help you score increased overall growth and development and maximum yields. Seems like that is a technique worth trying.

Foliar feeding is the application or feeding of a plant with a liquid nutrient or additive through the leaves instead of via the roots.

Foliar spraying was first proven to work by the notable plant researcher Dr. H.B. Tukey. His early experiments used radioactive labeled/tagged phosphorus and potassium to view the uptake and transport of these ions by the leaves and their transport around the plant.

Dr. Tukey found plant nutrients moved at the rate of about one foot per hour to all parts of the plants.

Comparing efficiency of plant use of foliar-fed nutrients versus soil-applied nutrients near roots, he found foliar feeding provided about 95 per cent efficiency of use compared to about 10 per cent of use from soil applications!

This early work showed that foliar spraying has great potential as an additional feeding program to allow for increased growth rates and development of plants.

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Plant Potential

In fact, a recent study of foliar-sprayed leaf versus root absorption of radioactive tagged complex carbohydrates and amino acids at a Canadian university indicated that these molecules are just too big to be effectively absorbed by the roots, but can be easily and effectively absorbed by the leaves.

Why should we foliar feed?

If we think of a plant as a city, then the leaves would be the manufacturing centers of that city. Almost everything a plant requires to grow and develop is manufactured in the leaves. Hormones, metabolites, proteins and amino acids—the

list goes on, and they are all manufactured in specialized cells contained within the plant’s leaves.

Sunlight is the main catalyst for this, as everything begins 1. The presence of a specialized root with a photon of light structure called the Casparian strip.This received from the sun strip is located inside each and every root or an artificial source.The roots, too, and acts as a specialized barrier produce some hormones but that blocks the uptake of all it is insignificant compared elements or compounds to what is produced in except simple “To get the best out the leaves. If we look at sugars and regular of foliar feeding, you a plant in this way, we plant nutrients must apply something like nitrogen can see that the best that directly affects opportunity to increase and potassium. one of the many Numerous the plant’s production production pathways studies conducted capacity, and hence our inside the leaf.” yield, is to go direct to at a Canadian the factories themselves, university have the leaves. Foliar spraying is indicated that plants the only practical way that most cannot uptake things like of these little leaf-based factories can be amino acids and complex carbohydrates accelerated due to two primary factors: effectively through their roots. Root-based supplements or growth and flowering stimulants based on these things can never really work unless they are foliar-fed, because, quite simply, they are never taken up by the plant’s roots.

2. The negative feedback loop system.

Even if some elements such as hormones are taken up by the roots, this feedback loop stops almost all of these additives from ever working. It does so by detecting the basic hormones contained in these performance additives and correspondingly slowing or completely stopping the plant’s own internal production of these compounds to compensate and keep everything in balance—almost like a plant veto! However, when used in conjunction with a high-quality commercial delivery agent, foliar feeding defeats this system

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Plant Potential easily by temporarily and suddenly flooding the plant’s negative feedback loop system, overwhelming it and allowing for a temporary increase in growth and development. It is by this systematic and periodic flooding of the plant’s metabolic systems that we can increase overall growth and development when

using foliar feeding—and of course obtain that maximum yield!

What should I foliar feed?

Foliar feeding should never be used as the sole source of plant nutrition. Instead, a good foliar program supports the plant via the foliar application of carefully selected plant additives that accelerate or enhance the action of one or more of the plant’s metabolic subsystems, in some cases helping to speed up the plant’s use of light itself. To get the best out of foliar feeding, you must apply something

that directly affects one of the many production pathways inside the leaf.

Using a commercially available delivery agent, it is possible to directly increase the production pathway associated with light energy conversion into plant energy (sugar, carbon and so on)—also known as photosynthesis. Other things that can be successfully used are a ⅓-strength grow nutrient solution. This can quickly correct any nutrient deficiencies, but remember to use a delivery agent with any foliar application for best results.

I’ve tried foliar feeding before but it didn’t work like it was supposed to. What can I do?

“Almost everything a plant requires to grow and develop is manufactured in the leaves.”

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Plant Potential

For any foliar program to be completely effective in enhancing that maximum yield, you must be able to deliver your specialized plant stimulants and nutrients inside the leaf of your plant. Now, this is not as easy as it sounds—because you first have to get past the protective waxy layer that surrounds every leaf. Once past this layer, you must then get it inside the cells where all the action is taking place. This is not as simple as just madly spraying your leaves with plant nutrients or additives, as most of what you apply to the leaves will never be absorbed.

For many years it was believed that by allowing a solution to remain in contact with the leaf surface for an extended period of time, the effective absorption of that solution would take place through tiny openings in the leaf ’s surface called the stomata. The plant uses its stomata

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to absorb and exchange gases (CO2, O2) and to regulate water flow (transpiration). Modern research now shows, however, that only a tiny portion of what you spray can actually get inside the leaf surface via the stomata. In fact, typically less than 10 per cent

“Numerous studies conducted at a Canadian university have indicated that plants cannot uptake things like amino acids and complex carbohydrates effectively through their roots.”

“A wetting agent is designed to make water wetter, so that it sits more evenly over the leaf and extends the contact area and time of contact when applied to the leaf.”

of the stomata uptake any plant nutrients. This inefficiency is then further compounded by the fact that even once taken up, most of the supplied material is immobilized on the inner side of the leaf surface by ion exchange membranes. This certainly explains the very hit-and-miss effects of traditional foliar spraying when trying to get that maximum yield with plant nutrients and additives. The only way to effectively deliver large amounts of specialized elements inside the leaves of your plant is to use a new type of product known as a delivery agent, which is not to be confused with a wetting agent. The difference between a wetting agent and a delivery agent is very simple and very important. A wetting agent is designed to make water wetter, so that it sits more evenly over the leaf and extends the contact area and time of contact when applied to a leaf. A delivery agent is primarily designed to actively deliver, or translocate, plant stimulants from the outside of the leaf surface to the inside, past the ion-exchange membranes and directly to the cells where they are needed to achieve a maximum yield. A delivery agent is designed to do this independently of the stomatal openings in the leaves, giving you a unique opportunity to profoundly affect the development and growth patterns of your plant. Make sure you use a delivery agent—not a wetting agent—if you want to be able to maximize the results from a specialized foliar spraying program. MY

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GROWING FOR HEALTH

Grow Your Own Superfoods in Your Home Garden This Year

by Aaron Turpen

When most people think of the term “superfood,” they think of exotic fruits or imported vegetables from faraway places with foreign names. In reality, many of the foods you eat and even grow in your own garden are superfoods.The common definition of a superfood is any food that you can consume that has a high concentration of nutrients and antioxidants. Many of these are probably foods that your mother told you that

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you had to eat if you wanted to leave the dinner table—or to grow up to be big and strong.

Here is a list of superfoods that can be cultivated in just about any location or garden. If you decide to grow them outdoors, they can be started from seed indoors before the spring thaw to maximize your growing time outdoors.  Broccoli: probably the best-known and most often cited superfood that is commonly grown. Broccoli has several benefits, including being a great source of antioxidants.

 Carrots: likely the other most wellknown of superfoods commonly grown and eaten in the U.S. Carrots are thick with phytonutrients, antioxidants and nearly every vitamin you can name.  Garlic: a favorite spice for cooking, this stuff is loaded with nearly everything good for you that you can imagine. It’s a known cardiovascular booster, an anti-microbial and more.  Green Beans: have to be one of the easiest things to grow and are cultivated in garden plots as well as potted indoors to vine up walls or along racks.

Beans are good for kidney stones and arthritis and are packed with minerals.

 Spinach: isn’t just for Popeye. It’s a very easy plant to grow, gives edible leaves throughout the season and has some of the highest concentrations of vitamins A and C and folic acid you can get.  Squash: nearly any type is great for you. Acorn, butternut, pumpkins and many others are packed with fiber, vitamin C, manganese, vitamin B6, potassium and much more.  Tomatoes: are everyone’s favorite garden vegetable (fruits, actually) to grow, and the subject of intense scrutiny and competition. Tomatoes are also full of antioxidants, vitamin C and light acids that aid digestion.

These are just a few of the many superfoods you can grow in your own garden this year to promote better health. Gardening can not only be a fun, healthy way to spend your spare time, but it can also lower your food bills, raise your health and nutritional levels and bring your family closer together—so start gardening and grow your own superfoods this year! MY

 About the author: Aaron Turpen is a professional writer living in Wyoming.

He is also the director of Gateway’s Needy Animals, a local animal shelter and rescue in the eastern Wyoming area.

His blog, AaronsEnvironMental.com, covers organic/sustainable living and environmental considerations.

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PRODUCT

Continued from page 42

spotlight

Vital Earth’s® Organic Compost OMRI™ Vital Earth’s® Organic Compost is made from a recycled blend of leaves, grass, plant pruning, bushes and woody material from southern Oregon.

Our organic compost is made up of 39 per cent humus, the life of your soil. Humus retains moisture in the soil and loosens it to permit better aeration and drainage, and encourage the increase of soil organisms, which help make nutrients available to plants. Vital Earth’s® Organic Compost is heated to roughly 145°F and turned for 15 days to kill pathogens and weed seeds. The materials are composted and cured for 12 to 18 months and turned at least three times. To learn more visit your nearest indoor/outdoor gardening shop.

Easy Garden Automation with the GroBot With PurGro’s GroBot, you can fully automate your garden. The GroBot controls lighting, nutrient injection, pH, heating, cooling, humidity and CO2 via at 2.4 GHz wireless radio. It automates foliar feeding and drains and refill cycles, but is simpler to use than most cell phones. GroBot runs from any web browser on your phone or laptop and the manual is right on the screen.

If you can Google, you can run the GroBot. The GroBot comes with everything you need including probes and cables. Plug in one of our remote relays, set the channel and you’re done. Visit your local hydroponics shop for more information.

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PRODUCT spotlight

Orcon’s Earthworm Castings – Nature’s Own Odorless Potting and Gardening Soil__________________________________________ Orcon’s Earthworm Castings are rich in calcium, magnesium, nitrogen, phosphates and potassium with no fillers or additives. Earthworm Castings eliminate the need for artificial or chemical foods. No harmful side effects, no burning and they stay in the soil for months.

Earthworm Castings are completely odorless. Perfect for indoor plants, as a top dress or mixed with potting soil. They have been found to reduce pest populations. Now available at your local indoor/outdoor gardening shop in two pound bags, one quart containers and eight quart pails. Call or visit for more information.

NF Hydro Clay – Premium Expanded Clay__________________ Nutrifield Hydro Clay is a natural, inert growing medium. It has a neutral pH, is resistant to chemicals and will not break down easily. The ceramic-like pellets are lightweight, porous and have a high crushing resistance. Nutrifield Hydro Clay helps prevent oxygen starvation to the plant’s root system and can help prevent root rot due to increased oxygen levels. Nutrifield Hydro Clay may also reduce algae, fungus gnats and unwanted weeds. Nutrifield Hydro Clay can be blended with Nutrifield NF Premium Coco to create an impressive potting mix. Available at an indoor gardening shop near you.

MY

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T5s Seeing the Light

by Jack Van Camp

As I write this we are experiencing the last days of November. There is a bite in the air and frost is beginning to cover the earth. As growers, we are thinking about moving our gardens indoors; some of us may have already done so.

I have a friend who started a landscape and pond business last year. This business is seasonal from May to the end of September. During this time he needs to add some sun to his shop. The water plants he will sell and keep for next year could not survive with the existing light so we installed two - eight bank 6,500k T5 fixtures over this plants and it worked beyond our expectations. The plants grew very well under these lights; in fact, they thrived. When fall rolled along and the landscaping stopped he put all the water plants under one T5 and hung the other over the koi tanks in the fish room to give them some good “summer sun.”

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T5s - Seeing The Light

It occurred to me that three or four years ago I would have suggested that he hang two 400 metal halide systems without thinking about it. It’s a subtle change in horticultural lighting hardware that I did not realize fully until a short time ago.

Working in a retail store, the first T5s I sold were to a customer who had salt water reef tanks. He wanted two - six bank fixtures with four 6,500k bulbs and two actinic bulbs in each. The bulbs that came with the fixtures happened to be 5,000k but these would not be powerful enough to grow his corals, so I ordered 6,500k bulbs and 6,500 bulbs only, from then on.

I put a light meter on a four bank fixture which read from 24,000 to 27,000 lumens, a few feet from the bulbs.

This is comparable to a 250 metal halide bulb and covers a larger area (1.2 four feet by 22 inches). The T5s run on less power and much less heat than an HID lamp. The T5 bulbs are relatively inexpensive and will last 18 months or so before they need to be replaced. The bulbs can also be replaced two at a time over a couple of months.

Another feature that adds versatility to the T5 fixtures is that they can be placed at any level where the light will be easier on the eyes than HID lights.

After saying all this about T5 fluorescents, HID lights still have their place in all kinds of situations.You can’t beat the area covered or lumen output of an HID light.You would be hard pressed to get better light spectrum or power on a 125 gallons reel tank efficiently without a 10,000k HID bulb or two.

A good friend of mine wants to build an orchid room. She wants to build a lath house inside a spare 12 foot by 12 foot room in her basement. Popular in Victorian times, lath houses were built outside with spaced laths in a sunny part of the yard.

The laths would not let the sun shine for long on any part of the leaves. In a room in a basement, the laths will be more aesthetic, but having the laths built out from the wall on two foot by four inch studs, there will be good air flow all around the plants and they can be hung or placed on any part of the structure itself including the ceiling. The plants will be placed in a tiered arrangement from high light to low light as needed. The main light source will be a 1,000 watt metal halide that will burn in the horizontal position. She has decided to use a magnetic coil ballast in this situation because the humidity will be held at such a high percentage at all times (50 to 80 per cent). The floor will be tiled and thankfully it will have a drain.

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Against the back wall will be a worka 400 watt metal halide, while freeing up bench two feet wide with storage space some valuable space. underneath. Over this, she is going to At the other end of the school there is hang a four bank T5 for propagating a greenhouse that is approximately 100 and separating different orchids. There feet long and 40 feet wide. It is heated will be a dimly lit area under the stairs with natural gas in the winter and has between the basement and middle floor two 1,200 CFM fans for cooling in the where she can put a bench and a four warmer months. The greenhouse runs bank T5 fixture with two 6,500k bulbs from September to May. This means and two 2,800k bulbs in the middle that three full crops can be harvested position in the fixture. In this way, she’ll in this time. The greenhouse and the be able to display flowering orchids hydroponics room are part of a hortiwith plenty of red in the spectrum. cultural and landscape program. Around Putting the 2,800k bulbs in with the April the students start to grow annuals 6.500k bulbs was her brilliant suggesfor potted plants and hanging baskets tion. Orchids are costly with the initial outlay “With fairly new hardware like T5 for plants totalling in fluorescents, electronic ballasts and the hundreds of dollars. innovations in horticultural bulbs it’s The passion of keeping simply a matter of choosing the right and showing orchids can hardware for the job.” be made less expensive and take up less room by simply using T5 fixtures in the proper setting. which are sold at a weekend sale in late In three weeks I’m meeting with a spring. The money is used for fundteacher I work with at a technical high ing the running of the greenhouse and school. In the school itself there is a hydroponic area. We are now going to large room that has been set aside for discuss putting a couple of T5 fluoreshydroponics. There is 135 running feet cents at one end of the greenhouse to of NFT trough with two 50 gallon start propagating and breeding orchids reservoirs and six 1,000 watt MH bulbs to sell at the yearly spring sale. over the area. A two part A&B nutriWith fairly new hardware like T5 ent solution flows through the troughs. fluorescents, electronic ballasts and At one end of the room is an area with innovations in horticultural bulbs it’s four – six inch fluorescent fixtures over simply a matter of choosing the right a propagation table. All hardware for the job. It is actually easier this area can be cut in now to sort out and build an indoor half with one - eight garden than it was say five or six years bank T5 fixture at ago because of information, changing less cost overall than technologies and quantity and quality of products available.

For me (an older fellow now) the realization of the benefits and proper placement of the T5 fluorescents was sort of convoluted. When you are so focused on the past ways of doing things the changes are subtle. As subtle as fall turning into winter. MY

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TALKING SHOP

Inc. “If you want it, we’ve got it. If we don’t have it, we will special-order it for you!”

AT A GLANCE Store name: Goldman’s Grow Shop Owners: Lisa and John Ziccardi Location: 910 Greenwood Road Glenview IL Phone: 847-657-7250 Motto: “If you want it, we’ve got it. If we don’t have it, we will special-order it for you!”

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John and Lisa Ziccardi

One day John Ziccardi went shopping rises with John to take care of their dogs, for supplies for his indoor garden and making sure that no matter how busy later mentioned to his wife, Lisa, that their schedule may be the animals get the the store was always busy. Lisa turned exercise they need every day. Lisa walks to him and said, “Let’s open a grow their own dogs for over an hour each shop.”Three months later, on March morning and again in the evening, then 22, 2010, Goldman’s Grow Shop sets off to take care of her clients’ animals. opened its doors for business.

A professional groomer, Lisa creates the Lisa and John have spent most of their perfect style to suit each dog’s lifestyle and lives successfully self-employed, John the preferences of their owners, and is the as a personal groomer clients fitness trainer “John grew up in a family of hire when they for over 15 reliability gardeners and has always want years and Lisa and someone appreciated the superiority with a personal for the last 20 as the owner connection to of homegrown food.” of her own their pets.This mobile dog-grooming business. Both busy and motivated power couple has are driven and dedicated in all that they already put in almost a full day’s work do, keeping work hours that would every morning before they head to the make the most veteran farmer cringe. store to help indoor garden enthusiasts John is the trainer clients hire when make the most of their gardens! they want to be pushed to achieve At first glance a grow shop might seem more than they thought possible; like an odd choice for the Ziccardi’s. always up before dawn, he heads out Why would a personal trainer and a dog daily to meet his first few clients—the groomer want to open a hydroponic ones who need to put in their exercise retail store? The answer is simple— time before they head to work. Lisa passion for gardening. John grew up in a

family of gardeners and has always appreciated the superiority of homegrown food. About five years ago, with encouragement from friends, John finally made the step from the outdoor basics to the complexities of the indoor garden. His enthusiasm was contagious, and soon Lisa was just as involved, both finding something very liberating in not being held to the weather and seasons for the freshest produce.

The grow store gives John and Lisa the opportunity to share their passion and knowledge with others.They are always trying different products and methods on their own and are thrilled to have the feedback of friends and customers as well, keeping their product lines and gardening expertise constantly expanding and evolving. Goldman’s takes pride in stocking the very best products the market has to offer, including trusted brands like Cutting Edge Solutions, Humboldt Nutrients, Roots by Aurora Innovations, Trim Pro, BioBizz, Pura Vida, Botanicare, Sunlight Supply, National

“We love helping people put together their indoor gardens. It’s great to see adult gardeners almost giddy, like kids in a toy store.”

Garden Wholesale and many more.The couple considers their ability to increase inventory every month a testament to their advancing knowledge and a sign of their success.

Lisa and John do admit they have had their struggles. Growing a company takes hard work, determination and perseverance, especially on slow days.The bureaucratic red tape involved in opening a retail space alone is enough to run off many would-be entrepreneurs! However, after all the paperwork and permits, all the inventory stocking, all the work on store displays and the late-night hours, they were finally able to open the doors—celebrating their grand opening with a large group of friends and family, many of whom became faithful customers.

Goldman’s inventory includes all the best: Botanicare, Dutchmaster, Humboldt Nutrients and the like line the shelves.

Finding new customers was yet another challenge.Their first foray into advertising was with Google, and then they found Maximum Yield, where they quickly signed up for a locator listing. After a month or so, they had the opportunity to be involved in a liveremote radio broadcast from their store and they also ran some commercial radio spots for about two months. Lisa and John have been quite pleased with the results from the advertising they have chosen to invest in, but they both know that the best advertising is from word-of-mouth and return customers—and they are fortunate enough to enjoy both of these.The Ziccardis have learned that patience, consistency and reliability pay off.

John and Lisa are also quick to point out that they could not be a success without the assistance of their wonderful staff.Their manager Jack wandered into the store shortly after it opened and hit it off immediately with the Ziccardis, quickly becoming an outstanding manager and their first full-time employee. Goldman’s currently employs two full-time and two part-time workers, allowing the store to be open seven days a week if necessary. Lisa and John generally open up around noon, though they have been known to open earlier for a customer and stay open later when needed.They’re happy to do this because they feel very fortunate to have support from the community and a faithful band of regulars, constantly reminding them why they work so hard to provide the best products and superior customer service.

Goldman’s goal is to satisfy all their customer’s needs. As Lisa says, “We love helping people put together their indoor gardens. It’s great to see adult gardeners almost giddy, like kids in a toy store.”

And the better gardens the Ziccardis can help these gardeners grow, the more business flows back into their shop.

Goldman’s believes the grow business is taking off—a growth industry, if you will—and they have the skills to grow with it. After MY all, in the gardening world, growth is good!

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For

Peat’s Sake The Peat Problem and Alternatives

by Michael Bloch

Peat, which forms in wetlands, is a deposit of partially decayed vegetation matter. Peat moss (sphagnum) commonly grows in peat bogs.

Peat and peat moss is sought after by gardeners for adding nutrients to poor soil and to assist with water retention. Peat moss is used in some hanging basket liners and as biodegradable pots for seedlings. Peat is also used as a solid fuel once dried in many places around the world.

The problem with peat

The wetlands (also known as peatlands) where peat is formed are unique ecosystems, so when it is dug up, those ecosystems are disrupted. As peat can take anywhere from a couple hundred to thousands of years to form, the wetlands are almost irreversibly damaged. In some parts of the world, most peatlands have are destroyed and the government is taking

“The wetlands where peat is formed are unique ecosystems, so when it is dug up, those ecosystems are disrupted.”

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For Peat’s Sake action to preserve what remains. Peat deposits in Southeast Asia could be destroyed within the next few decades Peatlands are also massive carbon sinks estimated to store anywhere up to 455 petagrams of carbon, which is 5 × 10 to the power of 11 short tons—in other words, a lot.

When peat burns, it’s like burning coal; much of the carbon content in the peat is released as carbon dioxide—the greenhouse gas of primary concern in relation to global warming.

The burning of peat unlocks carbon that has been sequestered for centuries and by burning it faster than peat can be produced, we’re just adding to our climate change woes.

The harvesting of the peat moss is simply unsustainable. It’s a slow growing plant and so much of it is needed to form the bricks that are favored by gardeners.

“Another alternative mulch material is cocoa-shell, which is a waste product from the production of chocolate. It has an added benefit of repelling cats.”

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Peat alternatives

For the gardener, there’s some environmental and economical alternatives to peat and peat moss. The most popular choice is coconut coir, which is a waste-product from coconut processing.

It can be used as hanging basket liners, a potting medium, mulch cover or as a soil conditioner. Some research has also concluded that coconut coir is actually superior to peat moss and it retains more water. Bricks of coconut coir will expand up to 10 times their original size once soaked in water. Seed pots made from coconut coir are also available.

A replacement for peat itself is simple—compost.You can buy it (e.g composted manure) or make compost yourself and save some cash. Compost made from your kitchen refuse, bark chips or leaves are a good replacement.

Another alternative mulch material is cocoa-shell, which is a waste product from the production of chocolate. It has an added benefit of repelling cats.

Yet another alternative is dried alfalfa. Like peat moss and coconut coir, it retains a great deal of water and adds nutrients to the soil.

For an ultra-rich soil conditioner, consider starting up a worm farm (aka vermicomposting) as the castings are prize fertilizers.

Worms will eat all sorts of household waste including cardboard and egg shells. If you have children, they’ll most likely love getting involved too. MY

MAX-MART

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MAX-MART

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COMING UP IN January

FEATURED ARTICLES Humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit and the Transpiration Stream

With a strong focus on lighting, nutrients and maybe a dose of CO2, humidity in the grow room is often overlooked resulting in growth disorders and disease. Get to know what humidity looks like in the grow room.

Fertilizers or Additives…or Both? Continued Plants want additives for accelerated growth, improved health and pest and disease resistance. In part two, we discover the remaining prominent additives—including hormones, fungi and bacteria—and their roles in plant health.

Talking Shop with Calwest Hydroponics

Get to know your local hydro shop. This month we feature sales manager Ryan Wicks and the entire Calwest Hydroponics team in Riverside, California.

www.maximumyield.com Stay in the Know with Maximum Yield’s E-News Every month Maximum Yield’s E-News brings you the latest news, tips and tricks, reader questions, contests and upcoming events. If you are not yet subscribed to our mailing list, sign up today at www.maximumyield.com/newsletter.php. Don’t miss out. subscribe today.

Maximum Yield USA January will be available January 1 for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across the country and on maximumyield.com Subscriptions are available at maximumyield.com/subscriptions.php

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I N D O O R

G A R D E N I N G

DO YOU

know?

6

CO2 is a ‘supernatural’ occurrence for a plant in nature at extreme levels, and your garden can literally become addicted to what it is being served in excess.

7

Potato tubers with multiple shoots produce a greater number of smaller tuber—which are ideal for `baby potato’ production—than tubers with fewer shoots.

8

The optimum temperature for lettuce germination is 54 to 64ºF and some varieties of lettuce will fail to germinate and go into secondary dormancy if conditions are too warm.

9 1 2

3

4

5

Humates are a large family of molecules that have similar characteristics, and are defined by the way in which they are extracted rather than by a chemical structure.

Gray hair has less silver and less manganese in it than ‘normal-colored’ hair.

everything a plant requires to grow and 10 Almost develop is manufactured in the leaves—hormones, metabolites, proteins and amino acids.

Hardening off young transplants is relatively simple—light should be increased and the EC of the seedling nutrients gradually brought up to the same level the hydroponic system will be running at.

11

As a liquid, silica comes in the form of potassium silicate; as a powder it comes in the form of silica clay.

Arthritis in rats can be cured. Studies have shown that sea solids can cure the animal if he’s got some of his tissue left in the joint, and also prevent arthritis in rats that are bred to get the disease.

Modern research shows that only a tiny portion of what you spray on your plants can actually get inside the leaf surface via the stomata. In fact, typically less than 10 per cent of the stomata uptake plant nutrients.

Soil and soilless growing mediums are very forgiving and can handle a wider pH range, where hydroponics and aeroponics need the pH range to be very specific for plants to thrive.

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

ALABAMA Alabama Organics 3348 Bethel Road, Valley Head, AL 35989 256-635-0802

ALASKA Brown’s Electrical Supply 365 Industrial Way, Anchorage, AK 99501 907-272-2259 Far North Garden Supply 300 Centaur Street, Wasilla, AK 99654 907-376-7586 Far North Garden Supply 2834 Boniface Parkway Anchorage, AK 99504 907-333-3141 Holmtown Nursery Inc. 1301 - 30th Avenue, Fairbanks, AK 99701 907-451-8733

ARIZONA ACI Hydroponics 1325 South Park Lane, Tempe, AZ 85282 800-633-2137 Homegrown Hydroponics 601 East Broadway Road, Tempe, AZ 85282 480-377-9096 Homegrown Hydroponics 1702 East Prince Road, Tucson, AZ 85719 520-323-1212 Natural Pools & Gardens 2143 North Country Suite C, Tucson, AZ 85716 520-323-2627 Sea of Green Hydroponics 1301 E. University Dr. Tempe AZ, 85281 800-266-4136 Sea of Green West 2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116, Phoenix, AZ 85023 602-504-8842 Sea of Green Hydroponics 402 North 4th Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-622-6344

ARKANSAS Fermentables 3915 Crutcher Street, N. Little Rock, AR 72118 501-758-6261 Mickey’s Mercantile 1303 Highway 65 South, Clinton, AR 72031 501-412-0214 Old Soul Organics and More 1771 Crossover Road, Fayetteville, AR 72701 479-444-6955

CALIFORNIA 3rd Street Hydroponics 636 3rd Street Oakland, CA 94607 510-452-5521 805 Hydroponics & Organics 1785 E. Thousand Oaks Boulevard Thousand Oaks, CA 91362 805-494-1785 A+ Hydroponics & Organics 1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 949-642-7776 A Fertile World (Eureka) 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-0200

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A Fertile World (Fortuna) 610 7th Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-0700 Abundant Hydroponics LLC 1611 Shop Street, #1-A, South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-54 HYDRO Advanced Garden Supply 2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard, Building C, Unit 9, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-4769 Advanced Garden Supply 3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F, Cameron Park, CA 95682, 530-676-2100 Advanced Hydroponics 17808 Sierra Highway, Canyon Country, CA 91351 661-299-1603 AG Natural 403 Idaho Maryland Road, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-274 0990 All Seasons Hydroponics 17614 Chatsworth Street, Granada Hills, CA 91344 818-368-4388 Alternative Hydro 3870 East, Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91107 888-50-HYDRO Always Sunny Hydroponics 708 W. Swain Road Stockton, CA 95207 209-473-9827 Always Sunny Hydroponics 2511 West LN. Stockton, CA 95205 209-939-0660 All Ways Hydro 2220 Eastridge Ave. Suite C Riverside CA 92507 888-HYDRO98 American Hydroponics 286 South G Street, Arcata, CA 95521 800-458-6543 America’s Best Hydroponics & Gardening Center 641 W. Palmdale Blvd. Unit D Palmdale, CA 93551 661-266-3906 Anthony’s Garden & Lighting Supply 30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9 Sutter Creek, CA 95685 209-267-5416 Anything Grows 10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C, Truckee, CA 96161 530-582-0479 Art of Hydro 2636 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd.

Thousand Oaks, CA 91362 805-230-2227 Atlantis Garden Supply 2851 A Whipple Road, Union City, CA 94587 510-487-8007 Atwater Hydroponics 3350 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90039 323-663-8881 Auburn Organic 4035 Grass Valley Highway, Auburn, CA 95602 530-823-8900 B & S Gardening Supplies 590 Commerce Court, Manteca, CA 95336 209-239-8648 Bakersfield Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333

Bare Roots Hydroponics 1615 East Cypress, #5 Redding, CA 96002 530-244-2215 Beginning Hydroponics PO Box 1232, Corona, CA 92787 951-735-4446 Berkeley Indoor Garden 844 University Avenue Berkeley, CA 94710 510-549-2918 Berkeley’s Secret Garden 921 University Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710 510-486-0117 Best Coast Growers 4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C, San Diego, CA 92120 800-827-1876 Best Yield Garden Supply 3503 West Temple Avenue, Unit A, Pomona, CA 91768 909-839-0505 Better Choice Hydroponics 610 S. Washington Street, Senora, CA 95370 209 533 2400 Better Grow Hydro Pasadena 1271 E. Colorado Boulevard, Pasedena, CA 91106 626 737 6612 Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles 5554 Bandini Boulevard, Bell, CA 91106 323-510-2700; 877 640 GROW Bloom Hydro 1602 53rd Ave. Oakland CA 94601 707 980 0456 Box Of Rain Inc. Po Box 302, Rexford, CA 59930 406-755-7245 Brentwood Hydroponics & Organics 560 Valdry Ct #85 Brentwood, CA 94513 925-634-6704 BWGS-CA 7530 W. Sunnyview Avenue Visalia, CA 93291 888-316-1306 California Hydro Garden 1043 South Glendora Avenue, Suite A West Covina, CA 91790 626-813-0868 California Hydroponics 310 Coral Street, Suite C Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-423-4769 Calwest Hydroponics 11620 Sterling Avenue, Suite A Riverside, CA 92503 800-301-9009 Central Coast Hydrogarden 1951 Santa Barbara Street, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805-544-GROW Citrus Heights Hydrogarden 8043 Greenback Lane Citrus Heights, CA 95610 916-728-4769 City Farm Hydroponics 8903 Laurel Canyon Boulevard, Sun Valley, CA 91352 818-767-2076 City Farmer’s Nursery 4832 Home Avenue, San Diego, CA 92105 619-284-6358 Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply 43 Soda Bay Road, Lakeport, CA 95453 707-263-4000

CNG Garden Supplies 22 Ricknbacker Circle, Livermore, CA 94551 209-836-5550 Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics 116 West Orangeburg Avenue, Modesto, CA 95350 209-567-0590 Concord Indoor Garden 2771 Clayton Road, Concord, CA 94519 925-671-2520 Conejo Hydroponics 3481 Old Conejo Road #106 Newbury Park, CA 91320 805-480-9596 Conrad Hydroponics Inc. 14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive, Clearlake, CA 95422 707-994 3264 Constantly Growing 6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite A Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-642-9710 Constantly Growing 4343 Hazel Avenue, Fair Oaks, CA 95628 916-962-0043 Constantly Growing - Davis 123 D Street Davis, CA 95616 530-756-4774 D&S Garden Supplies 17-130 Doolittle Drive San Leandro, CA 94577 510-430-8589 Dazey’s Supply 3082 Redwood Drive, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3002 Direct Hydroponics Wholesale 14228 Alberts Way, Chino, CA 91710 909-606-5885 Dirt Cheap Hydroponics 17975 H Highway 1, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-964-4211 Discount Hydroponics 4745 Hiers Avenue, Riverside, CA 92505 877-476-9487 Dr. Greenthumbs Hydroponic Garden Supplies 566 San Ramon Valley Blvd.

Danville, CA 94526 925-314-9376 Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply 164 Dinsmore Drive, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-726-0395 El Centro Hydro & Brew Supply Inc. 591 main Street, Suite N-2 El Centro, CA 92243 760-235-4985 Elite Horticulture Supply 22330 Sherman Way, C13, Canoga Park, CA 91303 818-347-5172 Emerald Garden 8249 Archibald Avenue, Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730 909-466-3796 Emerald Garden 13325 South Highway 101, Hopland, CA 95482 707-744-8300 Emerald Garden 307 East Perkins Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-463-2510 Endless Green Hydroponics 25 Enterprise Court, Suite 3 Napa, CA 94558 707-254-0200 Evergreen Hydroponics 923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B, Upland, CA 91786 909-946-7100 Everything Green Hydroponics 915 Texas Street, Fairfield, CA 94533 707-432-0774

Everything Green 448 Georgia Street, Vallejo, CA 94590 707-647-0774 Extreme Hydroponics 11479 San Fernando Road C, San Fernando, CA 91340 818-898-0915 EZ Green Hydroponics 7017 Reseda Boulevard, Reseda, CA 91335 818-776-9076 Farm Hydroponics, The 1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-3276 Flairform 1751 S Pointe Avenue, Ontario, CA 91761 213-596-8820 Flower Hut Nursery 603 4th Street Wheatland, CA 95692 530-633-4526 Foothill Hydroponics 10705 Burbank Boulevard, N. Hollywood, CA 91601 818-760-0688 Foothills Hydrogarden 3133 Penryn Road, Penryn, CA 95663 916-270-2413 Full Sun Supply 3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3 Santa Rosa, CA 95403 877-FULL-SUN Funny Farms Hydroponics 963 Transport Way, #12 Petaluma, CA 94954 707-775-3111 G & G Organics and Hydroponics 901 W. Victoria Street Unit D, Compton, CA 90220 310-632-0122 Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2 Chico, CA 95928 530-342-7762 Garden Depot, The 203 Commerce Street, Suite 101 Lodi, CA 95240 209-339-9950 Garden Highway Garden Supply 598 Garden Highway #22 Yuba City, CA 95991 530-755-2877 Garden Shed, The 1136 El Camino Real San Carlos, CA 650-508-8600 Garden Spout, The 44800 Highway 101, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-7260 Garden Spout, The 630 S. Main Street, Willits, CA 95490 707-456-0196 Garden Warehouse 6355 Scarlet Court, #2, Dublin, CA 94568 925-556-3319 Gardening Unlimited 60 Old El Pueblo Road, Scotts Valley, CA 95066 831-457-1236 Go Big Hydroponics 4501 Van Nuys Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91403 818-789-3341 Go Green Hydroponics 15721 Ventura Boulevard, Encino, CA 91436 818-990-1198 Golden Gecko Garden Center, The 4665 Marshall Road, Garden Valley, CA 95633 530-333-2394 Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply 8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48, Stockton, CA 95210 209-951-3550

Gonzo Grow 2550 Guerneville Road, Suite C,Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-546-1800 Gottagrow Garden Supply 769 Wilson Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 707-544-7782 Grass Roots Hydroponics 31875 Corydon, Suite 130 Lake Elsinore, CA 92530 951-245-2390 Grass Valley Hydrogarden 12506 Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-477-2996 Green Acres Hydroponics 1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180, Sacramento, CA 95834 916-419-4394 Green Coast Hydroponics 3560 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805-898-9922 Green Coast Hydroponics 2405 Mira Mar Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-627-5636 Green Coast Hydroponics 496 Meats Avenue Orange, CA 92865 714-974-4769 Green Coast Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Green Door Hydro and Solar 830 Traction Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90013 212-625-1323 Greenfire Sacramento 3230 Auburn Boulevard, Sacramento, CA 95821 916-485-8023 Green Giant Hydroponics 7183 Hwy 49 Unit B Lotus CA 95651 530 622 4465 Green Gopher Garden Supply 679 Redwood Avenue, Suite A, Sand City, CA 93955 831-899-0203 Green Joint Ventures 61 Tarp Circle, Salinas, CA 93901 831-998-8628 Green Lady Hydroponics 4879 Newport Avenue, San Diego, CA 92107 619-222-5011 GreenLeaf Hydroponics 2212 Artesia Boulevard, Redondo Beach, CA 90278 310-374-2585 Green Light Hydroponics 2615 Honolula Ave. Montrose, CA 91020 818-640-2623 Green Logic Garden Supply 860 Piner Road, #38, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 707-843-3156 Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply 1480 South E. Street, Suite D, San Bernardino, CA 92408 909-885-5919 Green Thumb Hydroponics 35 Quinta Court, Suite B, Sacramento, CA 95823 916-689-6464 Green Thumb Lighting & Garden 1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5, Torrance, CA 90501 888-326-GROW Greentrees Hydroponics Inc. 2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit D Vista, CA 92081 760-598-7551 GreenWay Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201

Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

159

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Grodan Inc. 5152 Commerce Avenue, Moorpark, CA 93021 541-646-8245 Gro More Garden Supply 2937 Larkin Avenue, Clovis, CA 93021 541-646-8245 Grow It Right Aquaponics POB 552, Eureka, CA 95502 707-407-6519 Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego 1591 N. Cuyamaca Street, El Cajon, CA 93612 619-749-6777 Growers Choice Hydroponics 1100 Carver Road, Modesto, CA 95350 209-522-2727 Growers Choice Hydroponics 16754 East 14th Street, San Leandro, CA 94578 510-278-6200 Grow It Yourself Gardens 401 Sunset Drive, Suite L, Antioch, CA 94509 925-755-GROW Grow Light Express 5318 East Second Street suite 164, Long Beach, CA 90803 888-318-GROW Grow Your Own 3401 Traval Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-731-2115 Grow Zone 718 Willow Rd. Menlo Park CA 94025 650-326-4769 Grow Wurks Hydroponics 765 S. State College Boulevard. Suite J Fullerton, CA 92831 Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics 12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C, Riverside, CA 92503 877-468-7974 H20 Gardening 355 West 7th Street, San Pedro, CA 90731 310-514-1416 Hahn’s Lighting 260 E. VA Suite 1, San Jose, CA 95112 408-295-1755 Harvest Hydroponics 6650 Merchandise Way Suite B, Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-622-5190 Healthy Harvest Hydroponics and Organics 2958 S. Higuera St. San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805.596.0430 High Desert Hydroponics 13631 Pawnee Road, #7 Apple Valley, CA 92308 760-247-2090 High Street Hydro 180 Cleveland Avenue, Auburn, CA 95603 530-885-5888 Hi-Tech Gardening 5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-4710 Hollywood Hydroponics and Organics 5109 1/2 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105 323-662-1908 Home Brews & Gardens 3176 Thorn St San Diego, CA 92104 619 630 2739 Home Life Hydroponics and Organics 1745 East Vista Way, Vista, CA 92084 760-643-2150

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Hooked Up Hydroponics 339 S. Golden State Boulevard, Turlock, CA 95380 209-668-1300 House of Hydro 224 Weller Street, #B, Petaluma, CA 94952 707-762-4769 Humboldt Electronics 2547 California Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-9408 Humboldt Hydroponics 1302 Union Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-4304 Humboldt Hydroponics 2174 Pine Street, Redding, CA 96001 530-241-7454 Humboldt Hydroponics 601 I Street, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-3377 Humboldt Hydroponics 2010 Tunnel Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-1402 Humboldt Nutrients 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 888-420-7770 Hydroasis 2643 S. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90232 888-355-4769 Hydrobrew 1319 South Coast Highway, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-966-1885; 877-966-GROW Hydro Depot 5665 Redwood Drive, #B, Rohnert Park, CA 94928 707-584-2384 Hydrogarden Delight 13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577 510-903-1808 Hydro Hills Hydroponics 19320 Vanowen St. Reseda CA 91335 Hydrogarden Mendocino County 1240 North Main Street, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-962-9252 Hydro International 7935 Alabama Avenue Canoga Park, CA 91304 Hydro King 105 Hartnell Avenue, Suite C and D, Redding, CA 96002 888-822-8941 Hydro King 2540 South Whitman Place, Chico, CA 959282 530-893-GROW (4769) Hydro-Logic Purification Systems 2825 Mattison Lane, Suite 103, Santa Cruz, CA 95065 888 H2O LOGIC Hydronation 2491 Boatman Drive, Suite B West Sacramento, CA 95691 916-372-4444 HydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 351 C Hastings Av., Ukiah, CA 95482 707-467-0400 Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The 1995 Evans Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124 415-824-9376 Hydroponics 4 Less 41669 Winchester Avenue, Temecula, CA 92590 800-A1-HYDRO Hydroponics Market 15816 Arminta St Van Nuys, CA 91406 818-305-6261

Hydroponics Plus 2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite C Concord, CA 94520 925-691-7615 Hydroponics Unlimited 641 W. Palmdale Blvd. “D” Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-3906 Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics 1307 W. Sixth Street, #211, Corona, CA 92882 951-479-8069 Igrow Hydro 2280 Veatch Street, Oroville, CA 95965 530-534-4476 Igrow Hydro 9000 Atkinson Street, Roseville, CA 95678 916-773-4476 Inland Empire Hydrogarden 1301-C South State Street, San Jancinto, CA 92853 886-72-HYDRO Inland Empire Hydrogarden 28822 Old Town Front St. #206 Temecula, CA 92590 886-74-HYDRO Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS) 7922-B Miramar Road, San Diego, CA 92126 858-578-IGS7 Kaweah Grower Supply 1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way, Visalia, CA 93293 559-625-4937 Kern Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B, Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 La Habra 1301 S Beach Boulevard, La Habra, CA 90631 562-947-8383 LAX Hydro 10912 S. La Cienaga Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90304 310-337-6995 Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics ‘N’ More 14626 East Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90605 562-945-0909 Let it Grow 1228 2nd Street, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-9086 Let it Grow 160 Westwood Center, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-8733 Liquid Gardens 21752 Devonshire Street, Chatsworth, CA 91311 818-718-7624 Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics 1772 Clark Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-498-9525 Los Angeles Hydroponics and Organics 3007-3009 W. Artesia Blvd.

Torrance, CA 90504 310-323-4937 Lumatek Digital Ballasts 33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite B Novato, CA 94949 415-233-4273 M&M Garden Supply 2509 West Lane, Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 209-939-0664 M&M Garden Supply 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 Marin Hydroponics 1219 Grant Avenue, Novato, CA 94945 415-897-2197

Medicine Man Farms 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Mendocino Garden Shop PO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1), Mendocino, CA 95460 707-937-3459 Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply 900 East School Way, Redwood Valley, CA 95470 707-485-0668 Merced Hydroponics 1809 East 21st Street, Merced, CA 95340 209-726-4769 M.G.S. 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, Hayward, CA 94541 510-582-0900 Mighty Garden Supply 4780 Mission Gorge Pl. #A-1, San Diego, CA 92120 619-287-3238 Modern Gardens 26620 Valley Center Dr. Santa Clarita, CA 91351 661-513-4733 Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply 224B Reindollar Avenue, Marina, CA 93933 831-38-HYDRO Monterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics 81 Hangar Way, #1, Watsonville, CA 95076 831-761-9999 Myron L Company 2450 Impala Drive, Carlsband, CA 9210-7226 760-438-2021 Mystic Gardens 8484 Florin Road, #110, Sacramento, CA 95828 916-381-2464 National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply 1900 Bendixsen Street , Bldg. 1, Samoa, CA 95564 800-683-1114 (Northern CA) National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 6485 Brisa Street, Livermore, CA 94550 888-570-4678 (Southern CA) National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 1950 C South Grove Avenue, Ontario, CA 91761 888-888-3319 Natural Pest Controls 8320 B Hazel Avenue, Orangevale, CA 95662 916-726-0855 Nature’s Secret Garden and Supply 41469 Albrae Street, Fremont, CA 94577 510-623-8393 New Leaf Hydro 34150 123rd Street, Parablossom, CA 93553 661-944-2226 NorCal Creations PO Box 28, Cedar Ridge, CA 95924 Nor Cal Hydroponics 4837 Geary Boulevard, San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 60 West 4th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-9999 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 357 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-5550 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 1070 Highway 101, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-1200 Northcoast Hydrogardens 3450 North State Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-462-7214

No Stress Hydroponics 7543 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90046 323-845-9874 Nutes Int’l 204 N Quarantina Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93103 805-687-6699 One Stop Hydroponics 12822 Victory Boulevard North Hollywood, CA 91606 818-980-5855 Oracle Garden Supply 5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100 San Diego, CA 92121 858-558-6006 Orange County Hydroponics 12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H, Stanton, CA 90680 714-893-9493 Organic Bountea 1919 Dennis Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 800-798-0765 Orville Organic Gardens 5250 Olive Hwy Ste 1 Oroville, CA 95966 530-589-9950 Orsa Organix 111 Willow Street, Redwood City, CA 94063 650-369-1269 Pacific Beach Hydroponics 1852 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, CA 92109 858-274-2559 Pacific Coast Hydroponics 4147 Sepulveda Boulevard, Culver City, CA 90230 310-313-1354 Pacific Garden Supply 128 H Carlos Drive, San Rafael, CA 94903 Pacifica Hydroponics 90 Eureka Square Pacifica, CA 94044 650-355-5100 Palm Springs Hydroponics 4651 Ramon Road, Palm Springs, CA 92264 760-327-ROOT Plant It Earth 2279 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94114 415-626-5082 Plant Life 32 Race Street, San Jose, CA 95126 408-283-9191 Plant-N-Grow 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Precision Hydroponics 132 Kennedy Avenue, Campbell, CA 95008 408-866-8176 Probiotic Solutions 20889 Geyserville Avenue, Geyserville, CA 95441 707-354-4342 Pro Gardening Systems 3715 Santa Rosa Avenue #2, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-585-8633 Pro Gardening Systems 4936 Highway 12, Santa Rosa, CA 95472 707-538-8402 Pro Gardening Systems 765 Petaluma Avenue, Sebastopol, CA 95472 707-829-7252 Redway Feed Garden and Pet Supply 290 Briceland Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-2765 Redwood Garden Supply 55 Myers Avenue, Myers Flat, CA 95554 707-943-1515

Reforestation Technologies International 1341 Daton Street, Units G&I Salinas, CA 93901 831-424-1494; 800-RTI-GROW RH Distribution 1751 S. Pointe Avenue Ontario, CA 91761 888-545-8112 Roots Grow Supply 1330 North Hulbert, #101 Fresno, CA 93728 559-840-0122 Roots Grow Supply 40091 Enterprise Dr. Oakhurst CA 93644 559 683 6622 Sac Hydroponics 9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite C Sacramento, CA 95827 916-369-7968 San Diego Hydroponics East County 11649 Riverside Drive, Suite 141, Lakeside, CA 92040 619-562-3276 San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities 4122 Napier Street, San Diego, CA 92110 619-276-0657 San Diego Hydroponics North 802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108 San Marcos, CA 92069 760-510-1444 San Francisco Hydro 123 Tenth Street, San Francisco, CA 94103 San Rafael Hydroponics 1417 Fourth Sreet San Rafael, CA 94901 415 455 9655 Santa Clarita Valley Hydroponics 25835 Railroad Ave. #26 Santa Clarita CA 91350 661 255 3700 661 255 3701 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West Side 815 Almar Avenue, Unit K, Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-466-9000 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East Side 4000 Cordelia Lane Soquel, CA 95073 831-475-9900 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North 6241 Graham Hill Road, Felton, CA 95018 831-335-9990 Santee Hydroponics 7973A Mission Gorge Road, Santee, CA 92071 619-270-8649 SB Hydro 1109 W. 190th Street, Unit #F, Gardena, CA 90248 310-538-5788 Seaside Hydrogarden 1070 Highway 101 North, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-465-3520 Shadow Valley Aquatics 75 Kimick Way, Red Bluff, CA 96080 530-526-0479 Skywide Import & Export Ltd. 5900 Lemon Hill Avenue, Sacramento, CA 95824 916-383-2369 Socal Hydroponics 1727-B Oceanside Boulevard, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-439-1084 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - Mtn. View 569 East Evelyn Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94041 650-968-4070 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose 1185 South Bascom Avenue, San Jose, CA 95128 408-292-4040 South County Hydroponics 22511 Aspan Street, Suite E Lake Forest, CA 92630 949-837-8252

Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

161

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

South Valley Hydroponics 320 Kishimura Drive, #3 Gilroy, CA 95020 1-866-848-GROW Southern Humbolt Garden Supplies 34919 Yucaipa Boulevard, Yucaipa, CA 92399 909-797-6888 Sparetime Supply 208 E. San Francisco Avenue, Willits, CA 95490-4006 707-459-6791 Specialty Garden Center 1970 East Vista Way, Suite 10, Vista, CA 92084 760-758-4769 Stop N Grow 340 Pine Avenue, Goleta, CA 93003 805-685-3000 Stop N Grow 4160 Market Street, Unit 11 Ventura, CA 93003 805-639-9489 Stop N Grow 640 S. Frontage Road, Nipomo, CA 93444 805-619-5125 Sun-In Hydroponics 1257A Cleveland Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-578-5747 Sunland Hydroponics 8300 Foothill Boulevard, Sunland, CA 91040 818-352-5300 Sunland Hydroponics 4136 Eagle Rock Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90065 323-254-2800 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 850 Shasta Avenue, Suite B Morro Bay, CA 93442 805-772-5869 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2 Paso Robles, CA 93446 805-434-2333 Super Starts PO Box 732, Bellmont, CA 94002 650-346-8009 Surf City Hydroponics 7319 Warner Street, Suite B Huntington Beach, CA 92647 714-847-7900 Sweet Leaf Hydroponics 1611 Sebastobol Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-575-GROW (4237) Sylvandale Gardens 1151 Evergreen Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3606 Tahoe Garden Supply 645 Westlake Boulevard, Suite 2, PO Box 487 Tahoe City, CA 96145 530-581-3200 Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening 62 Sutherland Drive, Auburn, CA 95603 530-889-8171 The Green Shop 66420 Mooney Boulevard, Suite 1 Visalia, CA 93277 559-688-4200 The Hydro Source 671 E. Edna Place Covina, CA 91723 877 HYDRO 82; 626-915-3128 The Hydro Shop 3980 Saco Road Bakersfield, CA 661-399-3336

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

The Otherside Hydroponics 19425 Ventura Blvd Tarzana CA 91356 818 881 hydro (4937) The Shop 6542 Front Street, Forestville, CA 95436 707-887-2280 The Urban Farmer Store 653 E. Blithedale Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 94941 415-380-3840 The Urban Farmer Store 2833 Vicente Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-661-2204 The Urban Farmer Store 2121 San Joaquin Street, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-1604 Thrive Hydroponics 70 A West North Street, Healdsburg, CA 95446 707-433-4068 Thunders Hydroponic Center 1729 Yosemite Boulevard, Medesco, CA 95354 TNC Supply 9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763 Upper Lake, CA 95485 707-275-9565 Total Hydroponics Center Inc 4820 Paramount Blvd Lakewood, CA 90712 562-984-GROW (4769) Tower Garden Supply & Organic Nursery 403 W. Olive Avenue, Fresno, CA 93728 559-495-1140 Tradewinds Wholesale Garden Supplies 1235 Striker Avenue #180, Sacramento, CA 95834 888-557-8896 Tulare County Growers Supply 435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A, Farmersville, CA 93223 559-732-8247 Turbo Grow 1889 San Pablo Avenue, Pinole, CA 94564 510-724-1291 Two Chix Garden Supply 1230 Yuba Street, Marysville, CA 95901 530-923-2536 Quail Mountain Ranch 230 Palm Ave Auburn, CA 95603 530-889-2390 Ultra Lo Hydro ultralohydro.com 937-252-8224 Under The Sun 12638 Foothill Boulevard, Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423 707-998-GROW (4769) Urban Gardens 22516 Ventura Boulevard, Woodland Hills, CA 91364 818-876-0222 Urban Gardens Unlimited 704 Filbert Street, San Francisco, CA 94133 415-421-4769 US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies 1621 South Rose Avenue, Oxnard, CA 93033 805-247-0086 Valley Garden Solutions Inc. 15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104, North Hills, CA 91345 818-336-0041 Valley Hydroponics 6632 N Blackstone Avenue, Unit B Fresno, CA 93710 559-449-0426 Valley Rock Landscape Supply 2222 N H Street Lompoc CA 93436 P: 805 736 0841 805 735 5921

Vital Landscaping Inc. 12817 Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-273-3187 Watch It Grow Hydro 9453 Firestone Blvd.

Downey, CA 90241 562-861-1982 Wai Kula Hydrogardens 5297 Linda Vista Road, San Diego, CA 92110 619-299-7299 Weather Top Nursery 44901 Harmon Drive, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-6385 We Grow Hydroponics 3350 East Los Angeles Avenue, Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-624-4566 West Coast Growers Hydroponics 13481 Colifax Highway, Grass Valley, CA 95945 888-924-4769 West Coast Hydroponics, Inc. 27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 949-348-2424 Western Auto 1156 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-1189

COLORADO Bath Nursery & Garden Center 2000 E. Prospect, Fort Collins, CO 80525 970-484-5022 Big Tomato, The 14440 E. 6th Avenue, Aurora, CO 80011 303-364-4769 Big Tomato, The 3000 Main Avenue, Durango, CO 81301 970-375-1238 Boulder Hydroponics 1630 N. 63rd Street, #5, Boulder, CO 80301 303-415-0045 BWGS-CO 11685 E. 55th Avenue Denver, CO 80239 888-316-1306 Chlorophyll 3801 Mariposa St. Denver CO 80211 303-433-1155 Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics 7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120A, Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 303-954-9897 Deep Roots Garden Supply 1790 Airport Road, Unit 1 Breckenridge, CO 80424 970-453-1440 Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center 6810 North Broadway, Unit D Denver, CO 80221 303-650-0091 Desert Bloom Hydroponics 445 Pitkin Avenue, Grand Junction, CO 81501 970-245-6427 Ever Green Hydroponics Inc. 1131 Francis Street, Suite A, Longmont, CO 80501 303-682-6435 Family Hydroponics-Boulder 2125 32nd Street Boulder, co 80301 303-996-6100 Garden Tech 737 Garden of the Gods Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-278-9777 Go Green Hydro 1005 Caprice Drive, Castle Rock, CO 80109 303-688-0599

Greeley Nutrients 700 11th Street Unit 101 Greeley CO 80631 970 673 8302 Greenhouse Tech 917 East Fillmore, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-634-0637 GroWize 3225 S. Wadsworth Boulevard, Lakewood, CO 80227 303-986-2706 Grow Store South, The 5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37, Englewood, CO 80110 303-738-0202 Grow Store, The 8644 W. Colfax Avenue, Lakewood, CO 80215 888-510-0350 GWS Hydroponics 7025 Highway 82 Building 4B, Glenwood Springs, CO 81601 970-384-2040 Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium 34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9, North Edwards, CO 81632 970-569-313 High Tech Garden Supply 5275 Quebec St. Commerce City, CO 80022 720-222-0772 Hydro Grow Supply 644 Peterson Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80915 719-596-2600 Hydro Planet 711 Washington Avenue, Golden, CO 80401 303-279-6090 Hydro Shack, The 220 Main Street, Suite E Frisco, CO 80443 970-668-0359 Indoor Garden Warehouse 8100 S Akron St., Suite 322, Centennial, CO 80112 720-496-2110 Indoor Paradise Hydroponics 309 S. Summit View, Unit 17, Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462 970-221-3751 J&D Organic Growing Solutions 217 1/2 Clayton Street Brush, CO 80723 970-310-5408 Lyons Indoor Gardening 138 Main Street, Lyons, CO 80540 720-530-3828 Mile High Hydroponics 37 Strong St. Brighton, CO 80601 303 637 0069 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 3550 B Odessa Way, Aurora, CO 80011 866-877-4188 (Northeast) Nick’s Garden Center 2001 S. Chambers, Aurora, CO 80014 303-696-6657 Olympic Hydroponics Supply LLC. 1530 S Nevada Avenue, Colorado Springs, CO 80906 719-635-5859 Polar Ray 5171 Eldorado Springs Dr. Boulder, CO 80303 303 494 5773 Primo Gardens 1600 North Ave. Suite B Grand Junction, CO 81501 970-241-1209 Rocky Mountain Hydroponics and Organics 15985 S. Golden Road Golden, CO 80401 720-475-1725 Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics 7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3D Denver, CO 80221 303-428-5020 Roll-N-Green Farms Horticultural Supply 25797 Conifer Rd #A-8 Conifer, Co 80433 303-838-5520

The Grow Outlet 4272 Lowell Boulevard Denver, CO 80211 303-586-5543 Ultra Lo Hydro ultralohydro.com 937-252-8224 Victory Hydro Gardening 1387 E. South Boulder Rd. Louisville, CO, 80027 Tel: 303-664-9376 Way To Grow 301 East 57th Ave. Denver, CO 80216 303-296-7900 Way To Grow 3201 E. Mulberry Street, Fort Collins, CO 80524 970-484-4769 Way To Grow 6395 Gunpark Drive, Boulder, CO 80301 303-473-4769

CONNECTICUT Harvest Moon Hydroponics 775 Silver Lane, East Hartford, CT 06118 860-568-4067 LiquidSun® CT 10C South Main Street, East Windsor, CT 06088 860-254-5757 Organix Hydroponics 749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza) Middletown, CT 06457 860-343-1923

FLORIDA 3D Hydroponics and Organics 7139 US Highway #19, New Port Richey, FL 34652 727-847-3491 Absolute Hydroponic Garden Center Inc 1607 Old Daytona Steet Deland, FL 32724 386-734-0696 Advanced Hydro Gardens 4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4, Miami, FL 33014 866-97-HYDRO Atlantic Hydroponics 430 Count Street, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-1535 Best Hydro 4920 Lena Road, Bradenton, FL 34211 941-756-1928 Blossoms Experience, The 7207 NW 54th Street, Miami, FL 33166 866-452-4769 Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies 946 18th Avenue SW, Vero Beach, FL 32962 772-564-8880 East Coast Hydroponics & Organics 461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105 Coca, FL 32922 321-243-6800 Eden Garden Supply 5044 N. Palafox Street, Pensacola, FL 32505 850-439-1299 Esposito Garden Center 2743 Capital Circle NE, Tallahassee, FL 32308 850-386-2114 Evershine Hydroponics 1519 Capital Circle NE Unit #35 Tallahassee FL 32308 850-765-0040 EZ Grow Green 604 S.W. Bayshore Blvd.

Port St. Lucie, Fl 34983 772-807-7755 Florida Garden Supplies 2692 W 79 Street, Hialeah, FL 33016 1-800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8020 Belvedere Road, Unit 4, West Palm Beach, FL 33411 800-931-5215

Florida Garden Supplies 9545 Sunset Drive, Miami, FL 33173 800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8442 Tradeport Drive, Unit 200, Orlando, FL 32827 800-931-5215 Future Farms Inc., The 14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105 Miami, FL 33186 305-382-2757 Gardener’s Edge Gainesville 5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13, Gainesville, FL 32605 352-375-2769 Gold Coast Hydroponics 1539 SW 21st Avenue, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312 1-800-780-7371 Gold Coast Hydroponics 4241 SW 71st Avenue, Miami, FL 33155 1-800-780-6805 Grace’s Hydro-Organic Garden Center 8877 North 56th Street Tampa, FL 33617 813-514-9376 Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies 13482 North Cleveland Avenue, Fort Meyers, FL 33903 239-997-4769 GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc. 5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104 Davie, FL 33314 954-316-8815 Green Winters Inc. 147 Tomoka Avenue, Ormond Beach, FL 32174 386-235-8730 Grower's Choice & Hydroponics 11855 North Main Street, Jackonsonville, FL 32218 904-683-4517 Growing Garden Inc., The 12811 SW 42nd Street, Miami, FL 33175 305-559-0309 GrowSmart Indoor Garden Centers 14587 Southern Boulevard, Loxahatchee, FL 33470 561-429-3527 Harvest Time Hydroponics 14414 N. Florida Avenue, Tampa, FL 33613 813-264-7101 Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc. 196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F, Pensacola, FL 32534 850-912-4545 High Tech Garden Supply 2975 West New Haven Avenue, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-0853 Hydroponic Depot II 2395 S Tamiami Trail #19 Port Charlotte FL 33952 941 255 3999t Hydroponics International Inc. 7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 904-693-6554 Hydroponics of Tampa 120 W. Bougain Villea, Tampa, FL 33612 813-333-6828 Hydro Terra Corp.

924 North Federal Highway, Hollywood, FL 33020 954-920-0889 Monkey Hydroponics 940 West Oakland Ave. Unit A1 Oakland FL 34787 407 574 8495 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 455 S. Andrews Avenue, Pompano Beach, FL 33069 877-649-3567 (Southeast) Palm Beach Discount Hydroponics – East 968 North Congress Ave. West Palm Beach, FL 33409 561 296 6161

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Palm Beach Discount Hydroponics – West 14703 Sothern Blvd.

Loxahatchee, FL 33470 561 296 8555 Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc. 968 N. Congress Avenue, West Palm Beach, FL 33409 561-296-6161 Palm Coast Hydroponics 4490 N Hwy US1 Ste. 108 Bunnell FL 32110 386 246 4119 Simply Hydroponics & Organics 7949 Ulmerton Road, Largo, FL 33773 727-531-5355 Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North) 3642 South Suncoast Boulevard, Homosassa, FL 34448 352-628-2655 Stoney Hydro @ Schiro's Barn n Garden Supplies 7812 Causeway Boulevard, Tampa, FL 33619 813-626-0902 The Healthy Harvest Ste. 126 21113 Johnson St. Pembroke Pines, FL. 33029 Tel: 954-538-1511 Urban Organics & Hydroponics 5325 Fairmont Street, Jacksonville, FL 32207 904-398-8012 Urban Sunshine 6142 S. Orange Ave Orlando, FL 32809 407-859-7728 Urban Sunshine 6100 Hanging Moss Rd ste 500 Orlando, FL 32807 407-647-4769 Urban Sunshine 1420 E. Altamonte Dr. Altamonte Springs, FL 32701 407-830-4769 VitaOrganix 7921 NW 67th St Miami, FL 33166 786 845 8633 Worm’s Way Florida 4412 North 56th Street, Tampa, FL 33610 800-283-9676; 813-621-1792

GEORGIA Atlantis Hydroponics 1422 Woodmont Lane, #4, Atlanta, GA 30318 404-367-0052 Atlantis Hydroponics 2561 West Point Avenue, College Park, GA 30337 678-510-0032 Flora Hydroponics Inc. 2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600 Athens, GA 30607 866-404-0551 Savannah Hydroponics & Organics 4107 Eighth Street, Suite C Garden City, GA 31408 912-349-4030

HAWAII Aqua Plant Hawaii / Kahala Hydroponics 4224 Wailae, Suite 1A, Honolulu, HI 96816 808-735-8665 Eco-Island Supply 810 Haiku Road, #394 Haiku, HI 96708 808-575-9171 Green Hands of Aloha 1713 Mary Street, Honolulu, HI 96819 808-847-4263

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INDIANA

Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply 300 Hukilike Street, #2M, Kahalui, HI 96732 808-871-6393 Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer 15-2754 Old Government Road, Pahoa, HI 96778 808-965-9955

BWGS-IN 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-316-1306 Five Point Gardens 56555 Oak Road, South Bend, IN 46619 574-287-9232 Frogs Lilly Pad, The 706 Citation Road, Carmel, IN 46032 317-846-4610 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 4200 S. East Street, Indianapolis, IN 46227 317-780-8070 Hops & Harvest 4616 E. DuPont Road, Suite Q, Fort Wayne, IN 46825 260-918-3035 Magic Bulb Garden Center 6229 Allisonville Road, Indianapolis, IN 46220 317-202-2852 Sunleaves Garden Products 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 888-464-9676 Worm’s Way Indiana 7850 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-598-8158 Worm’s Way Mail Order 7850 North State Road 37 Bloomington, IN 47404 800-274-9676

IDAHO Boise Hydroponics 614 North Orchard Street, Boise, ID 83706 208-344-3053 Greenthumb Greenhouses 5895 Ensign Avenue, Boise, ID 83714

ILLINOIS Aerostar Global 824 South Kay Avenue, Addison, IL 60101 Alternative Garden Supply 615 Industrial Drive, Unit A Cary, IL 60013 800-444-2837 Big Grow Hydroponics 9225 Trinity Drive, Lake In The Hills, IL 60156 847-854-4450 Brew and Grow 359 W. Irving Park Road Unit E, Roselle, IL 60172 630-894-4885 Brew and Grow 3625 N. Kedzi Avenue, Chicago, IL 60618 773-463-7430 Brew and Grow 3224 South Alpine Road, Rockford, IL 61109 815-874-5700 Brew and Grow 2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60440 630-771-0555 Brew and Grow 181 Crossroads Parkway, Bolingbrook, IL 60194 847-885-8282 Fertile Ground 463 West MacArthur Drive, Cottage Hills, IL 62018 618-259-5500 Goldman's Grow Shop 910 Greenwood Road, Glenview, IL 60025 847-657-7250 Green Fields 8137 N. Milwaukee, Niles, IL 60714 847-965-5056 Grow Big Hydroponics 7817 B North 2nd Street, Manchesney Park, IL 61115 815-637-4769 Hydrocork 20647 Renwick Road, Crest Hill, IL 60435 815-838-0100 Kreation’s Indoor Gardening Center 3427 Old Chatman Road, Springfield, IL 62704 217-341-0821 Let it Grow - Carbondale West Main Street, Carbondale, IL 62908 573-450-5401 Prairie House Garden Center 15151 South Harlem Avenue, Orland, IL 60462 708-687-3131 Water Works Indoor Gardening 1900 South Dirksen Parkway, Springfield, IL 62703 217-553-6929

KANSAS Green Circle Hydroponics 6890 W. 105th Street, Overland Park, KS 66212 913-642-3888

KENTUCKY

Inc.

Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Shop, The of Lexington 2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130, Lexington, KY 40509 859-268-0779 Louisville Hydroponics 3471 Taylor Boulevard, Louisville, KY 40215 502-366-4000 New Earth Garden Center 9810 Taylorsville Road, Louisville, KY 40299 800-462-5953 Worm’s Way Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088

LOUISIANA Geaux Hydroponics!

2126 O’Neal Lane, Baton Rouge, LA 70816 225-751-4769 Laughing Buddha Nursery 4516 Clearview Parkway, Metairie, LA 70006 504-887-4336 Ourcrazydeals Hydroponics 201 Angus Drive, Yungsville, LA 70592 337-303-6146 Urban Organics 285 St. Claude Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70117 504-352-4709

MAINE Evergreen Garden Center 301 Forest Avenue Portland, ME 04101 207-761-2800

Green Thumb Indoor Gardening 19 Stage Road, St. Albans, ME 04971 207-938-5909 Greenlife Garden Supply 611 US Rt. 1 York, ME 03909 978 262 9966 Urban Garden Center 235 Lewiston Road, Toposhan, ME 04086 207-373-0990

MARYLAND East Coast Organics 2800 Sisson Street, Baltimore, MD 21211 Healthy Gardens and Supply 5001-F Harford Road, Baltimore, MD 21214 443-708-5144 Maryland Hydroponics Inc. 10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723 301-490-9236 Maryland Hydroponics Inc. 12130 Nebel Street, Rockville, MD 20852 240-551-4625 Meadowview Feed & Garden Center 1202 Meadowview Road, Pasadena, MD 21122 443-817-0018 Purple Mountain Organics 100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue, Takoma Park, MD 20912 877-538-9901

MASSACHUSETTS Greenlife Garden Supply 481 Boston Road, Unit 4, Billerica, MA 01821 978-262-9966 Green Path Garden Supply 276 West Main Street, Northborough, MA 01532 508-393-4181 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 29 Washington Street, Route 1 Foxboro, MA 02035 800-660-6977 High Tech Garden Supply 560 Boston Turnpike (Rt.9) Shrewsbury, MA 01545 508-845-4477 LiquidSun® MA 8 Lynwood Avenue, Holyoke, MA 01040 413-539-6875 New England Hydroponics 15 D College Hwy. (Rt. 10), Southampton, MA 01073 888-529-9025 Worm’s Way Massachusetts 121 Worc-Providence Turnpike, Sutton, MA 01590 800-284-9676

MICHIGAN BIg Creek Hydroponics 555 Old Little Lake Road, Marquette, MI 49855 906-249-5297 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 23529 Little Mack Avenue, St. Clair, MI 48080 586-775-9485 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 6540 Allen Road, Allen Park, MI 48101 313-383-1766

Cultivation Station 3 Inc. 46912 Gratiot, Chesterfield, MI 48051 586-949-7453 Flo-N-Grow.

214 N. 2nd Street, Niles, MI 49120 269-683-1877 Gro Blue Indoor Gardening Supplies 270 W. Liberty Street, Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-913-2750

Grow Store, The 721 W. Blue Star Drive, Traverse City, MI 49684 231-421-5191 Growco Garden Supply 1042 Michigan Street, NE, Grand Rapids, MI 49503 877-939-6900 Growing Consultant 2260 Apple Avenue, Muskegon, MI 49442 231-773-5600 High Tech Garden Supply 7889 Telegraph Road.

Taylor, MI 48180 313-908-7554 Holland Hydroponic Outlet 587-40 East 8th Street Holland, MI 49423 616-298-7395 Home Grown Hydroponics 8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C, Saginaw MI 48609 989-781-1930 Homelight Gardens 3471 S. Huron Road, Bay City, MI 48706 989-922-0088 Horizen Hydroponics 1614 Leonard Street, NW, Grand Rapids, MI 49504 866-791-1664 Horizen Hydroponics 4646 W. Main Street, Kalamazoo, MI 49006 269-567-3333 HotHydro® 5245 Jackson Road, Suite F Ann Arbor, MI 48103 734-761-5040; 877-893-0716 Hydroharrys.com 24500 Dequindre, Warren, MI 48091 800-461-8819 Hydro Heaven 73647 W 8th Mile Road, Detroit, MI 48235 313-861-0333; 877-823-2076 Hydro Grow, The 8210 Telegraph Road, Taylor, MI 48180 313-633-0641 Hydrospot 34236 Michigan Avenue, Wayne, MI 48184 734-722-1285 Indoor Garden Superstore 2570 Dixie Highway, Waterford Twp., MI 48328 248-673-2200; 877 22 HYDRO J&L Growco 206 S. Michigan Avenue, Big Rapids, MI 49307 231-796-1528 Kalamazoo Indoor Garden 450 W. Maple, Kalamazoo, MI 49001 269-344-2550 Light Green Water 3661 Highland Road, Waterford, MI 48329 248-681-0001 Stealth Hydro 15 E. Cross Street, Ypsilanti, MI 48198 866-998-1916 Sunnyside Hydroponics 24930 Gratiot Avenue, Eastpoint, MI 48021 586-777-2528 Sunshine Supply Co. 5800 East Pickard Street, Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858 989-775-3700 Superior Growers Supply 19582 Middlebelt Road, Livonia, MI 48152 248-473-0450 Superior Growers Supply 4870 Dawn Avenue, East Lansing, MI 48823 517-332-2663

Synthetic Sun Hydroponics, LLC 3218 W. Houghton Avenue West Branch, MI 48661 989-345-8800 Synthetic Sun Hydroponics, LLC 9091 W. Lake City Road Houghton Lake, MI 48629 989-422-2800 Synthetic Sun Hydroponics, LLC 799 S. Wisconsin Avenue Gaylord, MI 49735 989 731 8800 Ultra Lo Hydro ultralohydro.com 937-252-8224 Urban Gardening Center, The 2520 22nd Street, Detroit, MI 48216 313-898-0200 Van Hydro 7480 N State, Davison, MI 48423 810-653-8267 Wild Child 7740 M 72 East, Traverse City, MI 49690 866-711-GROW

MINNESOTA American Garden Supply 601-6th Avenue, North, Princeton, MN 55371 763-631-0543 Brew and Grow 8179 University Avenue, Fridley, MN 55432 612-780-8191 Duluth Hydroponics 26 W 1st Street Duluth, MN 55802 218-341-7253 Eco Garden Supply 800 Transfer Door 25 in rear St. Paul, MN 55114 651-647-1896 Eden Indoor Organic Gardens 831 Highway 75 North Moorhead, MN 56560 218-477-EDEN (3336) Indoor Gardening 10 NE 3rd Street, Faribault, MN 55021 507-209-1546 Interior Gardens 115 -1620 Central Avenue NE, Minneapolis, MN 55413 800-498-4178; 612-870-9077 Midwest Hydroponics 3440 Belt Line Boulevard, Suite A, Minneapolis, MN 55416 888-449-2739 Still-H2O Inc. 14375 North 60th Street, Stillwater, MN 55082 651-351-2822

MISSISSIPPI Indoor Garden Shop LLC 1310 Bienville Boulevard, Ocean Springs, MS 39564 228-875-3725

MISSOURI Divine Hydroponics 301 North Bishop Avenue, Rolla, MO 65401 573-426-2348 Grow Your Own Hydroponics 3617 Saint John Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64123 816-241-2122 Green Circle Hydroponics 12 East Missouri, Kansas City, MO 64106 816-421-1840 Green Thumb Organics 249 Mid Rivers Mall Drive, St. Peters, MO 63376 636-397-4769 (GROW) Heartland Hydrogardens 705 Vandiver Drive, Suite G Columbia, MO 65202 HYDROGARDENS 573-474-4769

Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

165

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Let It Grow - Springfield 2519 E. Kearney Street, Springfield, MO 65803 417-862-GROW Let It Grow - Girardeau 879 S. Kings Highway, Cape Girardeau, MO 63703 573-803-0628 U-Grow 1724 North, 13th Street, St. Louis, MO 63106 314-452-6368 Worm’s Way Missouri 1225 North Warson Road, St. Louis, MO 63132 800-285-9676

Hydro Store, The 7145 W. Ann Road, Las Vegas, NV 89130 702-434-9376 Hydro Store, The 1014 W. Sunset Road, Henderson, NV 89014 702-434-7365 Lorraine Ink 290 Spear Court, Fernley, NV 89408 775-575-7757 Nevada Hydroponics 4700 B Maryland, Suite 1, Las Vegas, NV 89119 702-798-2852

MONTANA

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Alpengrow Nursery Supplies 238 Highway 93 S., Eureka, MT 59917 406-882-4496 Bizzy Beez LLP 5875 Highway 93 S, Whitefish, MT 59937 406-863-9937 Big Sky Garden Supply 528 West Idaho, Kallispell, MT 59901 406-755-1465 Cornucopia Grow Your Own 127 Stoner Creek Road Lakeside, MT 59922 406-709-1076 Dr. Green Thumbs 1106 West Park, Livingston, MO 59047 406-222-7440 Heightened Harvests 2018 Main Street #4, Billings, MT 59105 406-252-4311 Heightened Harvests 3103 Harrison Avenue, Suite B Butte, MT 59701

Hydro World 17 White Birch Lane, Lincoln, NH 03251 603-745-3030

NEBRASKA Advanced Hydro-Ponics 10711 Mockingbird Drive, Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q) 402-991-6630 Paradigm Gardens 8949 J Street, Suite 5, Omaha, NE 68127 402-339-4949 Patio-Ponics 3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4 Lincoln, NE 68504 402-466-9218

NEVADA AAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter 2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21, Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-450-4769 Advanced Gardens Hydroponics 3111 South Valley View, (on Desert Inn West of Valley View) Suite V103 Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-257-4769 All American Hydroponics 2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8, Las Vegas, NV 89120 702-894-9888 Anything Grows 190 West Moana Lane, Reno, NV 89509 775-828-1460 Best Hydroponic Supply 6818 W Cheyenne, Las Vegas, NV 89108 702-750-9300 Carson Valley Hydroponics 2520 Empire Ranch Road, Carson City, NV 89701 775-884-4769

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Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

NEW JERSEY 77HYDRO 37 Fairfield Place, West Caldwell, NJ 07006 877-774-9376 Claraqua 4 Redwood Court, West Windsor, NJ 08550 East Coast Horticultural Supply 1652 Hurffville Road, Swewell, NJ 08080 856-228-5290 Garden State Hydroponics 511 Avenel Street, Avenel, NJ 07001 888-300-8711 Green Touch 2 Hydroponics Inc. 888 Route 33, Unit 1, Hamilton, NJ 08619 HYDROPONICS 609-570-8829

greentouch2

NEW MEXICO AHL Year Round Garden Supply 1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 505-255-3677 AHL Year Round Garden Supply 9421 Coors Blvd. NW Suite K, Albuquerque, NM 87114 505-899-0592 All Seasons Gardening 3600 Osuna Road, Suite 406 Alburquerque, NM 87109 505-508-4292 All Seasons Gardening 1228 Parkway, Suite E Sante Fe, NM 87507 505-438-GROW Common Shaman 1319 San Mateo N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87110 505-255-6463

NEW YORK Bklyn Hydro & Garden 3116 McGuiness Blvd Brooklyn NY 11222 718-383-0095 Bronx Hydro & Garden 39 Bruckner Boulevard, Bronx, NY 10454 718-993-3787 Brooklyn Farms 521 Hicks Street Brooklyn, NY 11231 347-725-3491 California Hydroponics 27 Corporate Circle, East Syracuse, NY 13057 315-432-9387 East Coast Hydroponics 14649 Horace Harding Exp, Flushing, NY 11367 718-762-8880

INC.

Environmental Gardens 8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310 Peekskills, NY 10566 800-254-0507; 914-736-6676 FutureGarden Inc. 59 Central Avenue, Farmingdale, NY 11735 516-420-0884 Greentree Nursery 308 Elmira Road, Ithaca, NY 14850 607-272-3666 Green Zone Hydroponics 2148 Niagara Falls Blvd.

Tonawanda, NY. 14150 716-693-9663 Grow Room, The 8 Bridge Street, Nyack, NY 10960 800-449-9630 Harvest Moon Hydroponics Henrietta Townline Plaza, 3047 West Henrietta Road, Rochester, NY 14623 716-865-7353 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 340 West at 59, Central Nyack, NY 10960 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 147 Fourth Street, Troy, NY 10960 Healthy Harvest Organics and Hydro 163 Broadway, Fort Edwart, NY 12828 518-480-4698 Hudson Valley Hydroponics 217 Route 32 North, New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-3633 Hydro Garden Center 1069B Lyell Avenue, Rochester, NY 14606 1-800-277-1322 Hydroponics of Buffalo 1497 Hertel Avenue, Buffalo, NY 14216 716-838-3545 Hydroponics Shops of America 2606 Erie Boulevard, Syracuse, NY 13224 315-251-2516 Indoor Outdoor Gardener 8223 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11209 718-836-2402 KG Garden Supply 1327 Floyd Avenue, Rome, NY 13440 1-877-KG-HYDRO Revolution Hydroponics 309 West State St. Olean NY 14760 716.373.Grow (4769) Saratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply 19 Front Street, Ballston Spa, NY 12020 518-885-2005; 800-850-4769 Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics 2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13, Niagara Falls, NY 14304 888-GROWBOX Sunset Hydroponics & Home Brewing 1590 West Ridge Road, Rochester, NY 14615 866-395-9204 Upstate Hydroponics 2026 Lake Rd unit B Elmira, NY 14903 607 483 9199

NORTH CAROLINA Be Well Hydroponics & Urban Gardening 4732 Monroe Road, Charlotte, NC 28205 704-344-8010

BWGS-NC 4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400 Charlotte, NC 28214 800-316-1306 Fifth Season Gardening Company 21 B Westside Dr. Asheville NC 28806 828-225-5007 Fifth Season Gardening Company 45 Banks Avenue, Asheville, NC 28801 828-253-4112 Fifth Season Gardening Company 106 South Greensboro Street, Carrboro, NC 27510 919-932-7600 Fifth Season Gardening Company 1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue, Greensboro, NC 27408 336-271-3373 Fifth Season Gardening Company 5619-A Hillsborough Street, Raleigh, NC 27606 919-852-4747 Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center 4521 Cumberland Road, Fayetteville, NC 28306 910-423-FLOW (3569) High Tech Garden Supply 2712 B Freedom Drive Charlotte, NC 28208 704-697-0911 New Age Gardens 2236A US Highway 70, Swannanoa, NC 28778 828-299-9989 Progressive Gardens 6005 Oleander Drive, Wilmington, NC 28403 910-395-1156

OHIO Advanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center 5204 Darrow Road, Hudson, OH 44236 234-380-1287 Akron Garden Center 434 W Wilbeth Road, Akron, OH 44314 330-724-2700 Cleveland Garden Center Inc. 727 East 185th Street, Cleveland, OH 44119 216-481-7868 CropKing 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Carefree Garden Center 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Dayton Hydroponics 3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449 937-859-3999 Eastside Hydroponics 550 Ohio Pike Cincinnati, OH 45255 513-528-GROW Garden Connections 3341 Centerpoint Dr. Grove City OH 43123 614 871 0707 Garden Indoors of Ohio 4720 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 800-833-6868 Greenleaf Hydroponics 1805 Elm Road, Warren, OH 44483 330-372-1039 Grow Wizard, The 5700 Denison Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44102 216-961-2500 Harvest Moon 9215 Market Street, Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452 800-776-8399 Herb-N-Garden Center 14901 Puritas Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44135 216-252-2001

Hydro Gardens and Lights 1144 N Memorial Drive Lancaster, OH 43130 705-65 Hydro Indoor Garden Worx 906 Blue Avenue, Zanesville, OH 43701 866-900-9679 Indoor Gardens 1222 Hill Road, North, Pickerington, OH 43147 614-866-6065 Kissed by the Sun Hydroponic 10740 Reading Road, Cincinnati, OH 45241 513-769-0159 Magic Home Gardens 209 Cemetery Road, Canal Winchester, OH 43110 614-837-2440 Magic Home Garden 4538 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 614-263-2440 Summit Hydroponics 1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114 330-753-5222 Sweet Greens 5540 Brecksville Road Independence, OH 44131 800-421-7084 Toledo Hydroponics Ltd. 855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2 Toledo, OH 43615 1-877-893-0716 Trinity Hydro Organics 465 Woodman Drive Riverside, OH 45431 937-252-GROW Urban Gardens 671 E. Center Street Marion, OH 43302 740-375-2800

OKLAHOMA AAAAHA! Hydroponics Unlimited P.O. Box 74, Oakhurst, OK 74050 Organics OKC Garden Supply 3620 N Pennsylvania Avenue, Oklahoma City, OK 73118 405-528-GROW Tulsa County Hydro-Organics 1928 W. Albany, Broken Arrow, OK 74012 918-259-HYDRO Urban Garden 3141 E. 15th Street, Tulsa, OK 74104 918-289-0018

OREGON American Agriculture 9220 Southeast Stark Street, Portland, OR 97216 800-433-6805 Anthony’s Garden & Light Supply 93779 B Troy Lane, Coos Bay, OR 97420 541-266-8822 Aqua Serene 2836 W. 11th Avenue, Eugene, OR 97402 541-302-9073 Aqua Serene 465 Applegate Way, Ashland, OR 97520 541-482-7600 Aurora Innovations PO Box 22041, Eugene, OR 97402 866-376-8578 Basin Indoor Gardening 1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601 541-273-2023 B.I.G.S. 155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401, Bend, OR 97702 541-385-5222

BIGS Warehouse 2606 SW 4th Street, Unit B Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-8886 Cascade Horticulture 39570 Pioneer Boulevard, Sandy, OR 97055 503-668-8242 Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics 5490 SW Philomath Boulevard, Corvallis, OR 97333 541-738-2820 Everybody’s Garden Center 2701 SE 14th Avenue, Portland, OR 97202 800-669-5483 Forever Green Organic Hydro Gardens 7530 Crater Lake Highway, White City, OR 97503 541-826-2946 Garden Spout, The 4532 South East 63rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97206 503-788-4769 Gorilla Garden Supply 1810 Virginia Avenue, North Bend, OR 97459 Garden Supplies 541-756-5005 Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply 2021 West Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-779-8600 Grow America Garden Supply LLC 11511 SW Pacific Highway, Tigard, OR 97223 503-841-6868 Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics) 817 W. 2nd Street, Medford, OR 97501 H2organic LCC 620 NE 3rd Street, McMinnville, OR 97128 503-434-6107 Herb N’ Jungle Hydroponics 930 SE Textron Drive, Bend, OR 97702 541-382-4010 Homegrown Garden Supply 7112 NE Gilsan Street, Portland, OR 97213 877-EZ2-GROW In and Out Gardens 1574 Skypark Drive Medford, OR 97501 541-858-3333 Indoor Garden Center 1697 SE 25th Street, Salem, OR 97302 503-566-7888 Indoor Garden Depot 15828 SE McGloughlin Boulevard, Milwaukie, OR 97267 503-786-2445 Indoor Garden Supply 536 SW 6th Street (rear alley), Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-7750 Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center 909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217 503-546-3185 J-N-B Hydro 2 Go 155 West Central Avenue, Sutherlin, OR 97479 541-459-9211 Ladybug Indoor Gardens 3960 W. Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-618-4459 Lights Distributing 9843 SW 55th Avenue, Portland, OR 97219 Liquid Sun 1845 Southwest Highway 101, Lincoln City, OR 97367 541-994-7070 Moonshine Park Farm 135 South East 62nd, Unit F South Beach, OR 97366 541-444-2298

Maximum Yield USA | December 2010

167

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Northern Light and Garden Beaverton 9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005 503-297-7331 Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass 1203 Rogue River Highway, Grants Pass, OR 97527 541-474-1700 Northern Light and Garden Salem 1915 Lancester Drive, Salem, OR 97305 503-364-4769 Oregon Rainforest Co. 19949 E. Burnside Street, Gresham, OR 97233 503-465-9909 Paradise Supply LLC 560 NE. "F" Street, Unit C, Grand Pass, OR 97526 541-955-7293 Rain or Shine 13126 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230 503-255-1981 Rogue Silicates Inc. POB 21, Azalea, OR 97410 541-837-8590 Roots Garden Supply 5426 North Gay Avenue, Portland, OR 97217 503-285-4768 Roseburg Hydroponics 853 SE Stephens Street, Roseburg, OR 97470 541-229-1420 SunInside Gardening Co. 665 Conger, Unit F, Eugene, OR 97402 541-686-9966 The Good Earth Organics 30088 Redwood Highway, Cave Junction, OR 97523 541-592-4496 Urban Flora 2865 South East, Portland, OR 97214 503-236-3344 Vital Organix 932-B SE “M” Street Grants Pass, OR 97526 541-226-9283 Westcoast Organic and Hydroponic Supply 12410 SE 282nd Avenue, Unit C Boring, OR 97009 503-766-4106 Wizard's Garden, LLC 621 Spruce Street, Unit C, Myrtle Point, OR 97458 541-572-2333

PENNSYLVANIA 422 GROW 1775 North Main Street Extension Butler, PA 16001-1327 724-561-3777 Flairform POB 1417, Lansdale, PA 19446 215-395-6353 Full Bloom Hydroponics 84 South 24th Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15203 888-872-3602 Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania 208 Route 13, Bristol, PA 19007 800-227-4567 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 1239 South Airport Road, Allentown, PA 18103 610-432-4949 Healthy Gardens and Supply 1012 Lincoln Avenue, Prospect Park, PA 19076 866-32-HYDRO High Tech Garden Supply 20232 Route 19, Unit 6, Cranberry Twp., PA 16066 724-473-1113

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TENNESSEE

Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 2008 Smallman Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15222 412-232-7030 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 830 Route 119, Greensburg, PA 15601 724-836-1118 Hydro Ponics of Harrisburg 310 South 10th Street, Lemoyne, PA 17043 877-684-3808 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 450 Grim Lane, York,PA 17406 877-779-7111(Northeast) New Stanton Hydro 150 Post Ave. New Stanton, PA. 15672 724-635-0297 Organic Garden Center 800 Washington Blvd.

Williamsport, PA 17701 570-322-3120 PA Hydroponics & Home Gardening Supply 20 Quaker Church Road, York Springs, PA 17372 717-528-4175 Pocono Hydroponic Solutions 25 Route 611 Bartonsville, PA 18321 Tel: 570-730-4544 RH Distribution POB 1417 Lansdale, PA 19446 888-545-8112

Advanced Hydroponic Garden 783 French Mill Road, Dandridge, TN 37725 800-521-1643 Advanced Hydroponic Garden 6912 Clinton Highway, Knoxville, TN 37921 866-938-3318 All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co. 924 8th Avenue, South, Nashville, TN 37203 800-790-2188 Atlantis Hydroponics 1800 Rossville Avenue, #3, Chattanooga, TN 37408 423-752-5400 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 126 Belinda Parkway, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122 888-265-9005 Perpetual Harvest 75 Riverport Drive, Jackson, TN 38301 877-422-3391 Sun City Hydroponics 2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104, Memphis, TN 38133 901-372-8100 Worm’s Way Tennessee 901 Main Street, Nashville, TN 37072 800-397-4153

TEXAS

RHODE ISLAND Good To Grow 34 Nooseneck Hill Road West Greenwich, RI 02817 401-392-3100 Hydro-Earth 1243 Mineral Springs Avenue, North Providence, RI 02904 401-305-5520 LiquidSun® RI 1179 Central Avenue, Pawtucket, MA 02861 401-722-2724 Oakworld Garden Center 39 West Street, Barrington, RI 02806 401-245-5705 Organically Grown 768 Atwood Ave Cranston, RI 02920 401-944-0549 Solar Seed Hydroponics, Inc. 2406 Putman Pike, Chepachet, RI 02814 401-710-9010

SOUTH CAROLINA 247 Garden Supply 535 D Clemson Road, Columbia, SC 29229 803-788-4445 All Good Hydroponics & Gardening 6729 Two Notch Road, Columbia, SC 29223 803-708-4819 GreenSpirit Hydrogarden 1864 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29405 843-225-1GRO; Greenspirit Hydrogardens 3600 Unite 1 Hwy.17 S. North Myrtle Beac, SC 29582 843-361-7777 Green Thumb Unique Gardening & More 1230 Rutherford Road, Greenville, SC 29609 864-271-8830

SOUTH DAKOTA Green Earth Products Inc. 5700 Highway 79 S.,Unit 1, Rapid City, SD 57702 605-342-1307

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Abundant Harvest Hydroponics & Organics 3101 Avenue E East, Arlington Road, TX 76011 817-649-0100 Airline Hydroponics P.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363, Houston, TX 77098 713-942-0484 Botani Garden 15120 Bellaire Blvd Houston, TX 77083 281-575-1999 Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics 4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310, Austin, TX 78745 512-444-2100 Earth Organics 1360 Lee Trevino Drive,Suite 105 El Paso, TX 79936 915-591-9500 Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies 5302 Slide Road Unit B, Lubbock, TX 79414 806-793-2901 GreenMaker Nursery 3030 Northwest Loop, Stephenville, TX 76401 254-965-7273 GroGreen Hydroponics 4015 Main Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-370-9984 Happy Harvest Hydroponics & Organic 1500 Crescent Drive, Suite 202 Carrollton, TX 75006 972-466-1300 Houston Discount Hydroponics 9384 Richmond Avenue, Houston, TX 77063 713-464-9406 Hydro Mart 3841 Main Street, Rowlett, TX 75088 972-475-6114 Hydroponic Nation 9700 Almeda Genoa Road, Suite 108, Houston, TX 77075 281-501-9636

Innergrow Hydroponics 24451 Interstate Highway 20, Wills Point, TX 75169 866-475-4769 Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies) 13628 Neutron Road, Dallas, TX 75244 (866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555 Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics 1302 Motor Circle, Dallas, TX 75207 214-634-9376 Sol Organics & Hydroponics 1634 Babcock Road, San Antonio, TX 78229 210-366-9082 Texas Growers Supply 5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602, Humble, TX 77396 281-441-3739 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin) 5126 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756 512-459-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin) 2125-A Goodrich Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-440-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas) 3400 Elm Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-744-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston) 7730 A Park Place Boulevard, Houston, TX 77087 713-641-4769 Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply 6125 West Sam Houston Parkway, North Suite 206 Houston, TX 77041 713-856-8425

UTAH Salt Lake Plant & Hydro 60 West 3300 S. #6, South Salt Lake, UT 84115 801-488-3200

VERMONT Green Thumb Gardening P.O. Box 235, Route 15, Underhill, VT 5489 800-564-9376 Greenthumb - Vermont 394 Route 15, Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323 LiquidSun® VT 1 Bellows Falls Road, (Route 5 North) Putney, VT 05158 802-387-1100 Peak Hydroponic Garden Supplies 20 School Street, Plainfield, VT 05667 802-454-8000

VIRGINIA Blue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co. 5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11 Roanoke VA 24012 540-265-2483 Clean & Green Technologies 196 Corning Drive, Christiansburg, VA 24073 866-694-1628 Fifth Season Gardening Company 900 Preston Ave. Charlottesville VA 22903 434-293-2332 Hydroponics & Growlights 13400 Occoquan Road, Woodbridge, VA 22191 703-490-0700 I Love Hydroponics 612 N. Sheppard Street, Richmond, VA 23221 804-377-3020 I Love Hydroponics 368 Newtown Road, #105, Virginia Beach, VA 23462 757-490-5425

Inside-Out Garden Supply 6517 Backlick Road, Springfield, VA 22150 703-451-3259

West VIRGINIA Panhandle Hydroculture 800 East Moler Ave. Martinsburg, WV 25401 304-240-7587

WASHINGTON 509 Grow 2718 N Division Spokane, WA 99207 509-327-GROW(4769) Aqua Serene 3839 Stone Way North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-GROW (4769) Eco Enterprises 1240 NE 175th Street, #B Shoreline, WA 98155 800-426-6937 Garden Smart 500 Bond Drive, Castlerock, WA 98611 360-274-7960 Green Gardens Distributing 12738 Bel-Red Road, Bellevue, WA 98005 425-454-5731 Green Tree Hydroponics and Garden 12316 Pacisic Ave South Tacome, WA 98444 253-495-6757 Go-N-Green Hydroponics 1241 State Ave Suite #102 Marysville, WA 98270 (360)386-8230 Grow Center, The 17524 N. Franklin Crescent, Colbert, WA 99005 509-456-GROW GROGRO HYDRO 12316 32nd AVE NE #103 Seattle, WA 98125 Hydro-Tech 2121 Aurora Avenue, North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-2202 Indoor Garden Depot 6400 NE Highway 99, Suite H, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Indoor Garden Depot 1401 S. 324th Street, Federal Way, WA 98003 253-874-1112 Indoor Garden & Lighting 8606 Preston Fall City Rd. SE Preston WA 98050 425 222 9661 Indoor Garden & Lighting 3839 6th Avenue, Tacoma, WA 98406 253-761-7478 Indoor Garden & Lighting 23303 Highway 99, Suite A, Edmonds, WA 98026 425-673-2755 Indoor Garden & Lighting 714 South Central Avenue, Kent, WA 98032 253-373-9060 Indoor Garden Supply LLC 1250 Atlantic Ave, Woodland, WA 98674 360-841-8055 InDoor Gardening 1158 Commerce Longview WA, 98632 360-353-3851 Island Hydroponic & Supplies 1515 5th Street #B, Marysville, WA 98271 425-299-5855 Kent Garden Supplies Ltd. 18817 East Valley Highway, Kent, WA 98032 425-251-9299 Kitsap Garden & Lighting 2130 6th Street, Bremerton, WA 98312 360-377-1277

Linda’s Gardening & Hydroponics 11522 Canyon Road East, Puyallup, WA 98373 253-531-9641 Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics 5087 Lincoln Road, Blaine, WA 98230 M & R Lighting 17238 Memorial Drive, Mt. Vernon, WA 98273 360-848-1080 M & R Lighting Unit C 22914 Highway 410, Buckley, WA 98390 253-891-4190 Mike's Indoor Garden Supply 6121 172nd Street NE #A, Arlington, WA 98223 425-346-6481 National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply 4525 NW Fruit Valley Road, Vancouver, WA 98660 888-478-6544 (Northwest) National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply 5408 NE 88th Street, Building A, Vancouver, WA 98665 888-478-6544 Northern Lights Gardening 4159 Hannegan Road, Bellingham, WA 98225 360-715-8585 Northwest Horticulture Supply 161 Hooker Road, #1, Sequim, WA 98057 360-582-0702 Renton Indoor Garden Center 207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A, Renton, WA 98055 425-917-9000 River City Hydroponics 1514 East Francis Avenue, Spokane, WA 99208 509-464-0246 Sodo Hydro 1727 1st Ave. South, Seattle, WA 98134 888-904-9376 Solar Shop 306 West 4th Street, Tonasket, WA 98855 509-486-4508 Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply 4823 East Sprague Avenue E., Spokane Valley, WA 99212 509-534-4055

WISCONSIN Aric's Indoor Garden Supply 1104 West Wisconsin Avenue, Appleton, WI 54914 920-574-3258 Brew and Grow 285 N. Janacek Road, Brookfield, WI 53045 262-789-0555 Brew and Grow 3317 Agriculture Drive, Madison, WI 53716 608-226-8910 Grow BIG Hydroponics 954 S. Westland, Appleton, WI 54914 920-749-4769 Paradigm Gardens 4539 Helgesen Drive, Madison, WI 53718 608-241-3800

PUERTO RICO Tecno-Hydro Ave Campo Rico GJ17, Carolina, PR 00982 787-752-8252

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