MY_USA_July_09 by Maximum Yield

USA

I N D O O R

G A R D E N I N G

FREE

Plants and Energy Bodies

wind, earth, water or fire: WHICH co2 are you?

Annual

San Francisco

Indoor Gardening Expo

July 25th & 26th, 2009

www.indoorgardenexpo.com

CONTENTS july 2009

FEATURES 44

Short and Sweet: Growing Dwarf Flowers Part II

Wind, Earth, Water or Fire: Which CO2 Are You?

Plants and Energy Bodies

The Perfect Sod

The Nutrition of your Plants: Essential Points Part III

106

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

by Erik Biksa

by Evan Folds

by Lee McCall

by Luis Bartolo

Differences Between Organic and Inorganic Plant Growing Systems by Dr. Carole Ann Rollins and Dr. Elaine Ingham

112

Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Moisture in the Soil by Roland Evans

118

Shopping for Humic Acids

124

Dosing Procedures for Nutrients and Additives

128

Wasabi Japonica

by Donald Lester

by Bob Taylor

by Noucetta Kehdi

DEPARTMENTS 10 From the Editor

104 Tips and Tricks

12 Letters to the Editor

134 You Tell Us

14 MaximumYield.com

141 Check Your Growing IQ

16 Ask Erik

146 Avant-Gardening

22 MAX Facts

147 Do You Know?

34 Product Spotlight

148 Max Mart

58 Growing for Health

152 Distributors

74 Beginnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Corner

162 Coming up in August

88 Green Thumb Gardening

90 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

FROM THE editor

jessica raymond

July is a month for celebrations across the USA with Fourth of July fun and fireworks just the beginning. We are celebrating by bringing you the BIGGEST ever issue of Maximum Yield USA monthly! This jam-packed issue features some of your favorite writers like Dr. Lynette Morgan, Erik Biksa and Evan Folds to name a few. Created with our readers in mind, this issue features topics that you’ve been asking for including the benefits of humic acid, carbon dioxide enrichment and nutrients, nutrients, nutrients. Check out the product spotlight section as many of our companies have unveiled some of the new products that they will be showcasing at our upcoming San Francisco Expo. With this in mind, we recommend that you make plans now to attend the Maximum Yield “Growing our World Green” 6th Annual San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo (July 25-26, 2009). Take this opportunity to see our magazine “live” with all your favorite products showcased and industry experts on hand to educate and inform you with the latest gardening knowledge. Admission is free with Hydro for Hunger donations accepted at the door. Saturday, July 25 is Industry Only day, from 11 a.m - 6 p.m. Sunday, July 26, the expo is open to both the industry and the general public from noon – 5 p.m. We’ve got tons of prizes to be won, an education station and the best in growing gear on display. For directions, hotel specials and more information about this event visit www. indoorgardenexpo.com The second contest of our Win Big! Grow Big! online reader contest

contributors

Dr. Carole Ann Rollins is co-owner with her husband of Nature Tech-

nologies International LLC located in Novato, Calfiiornia. They produce organic alternatives to toxic pesticides and synthetic fertilizers. Their product line includes the Nature's Solution brand of compost tea, ancient humate, sea kelp, mycorrhizae, worm castings, compost tea brewers, solution ingredients, and books. She co-authored a book with Dr. Elaine Ingham called Adding Biology for Soil and Hydroponic Systems. She edited and compiled The Field Guide I and II for Actively Aerated Compost Tea for Dr. Elaine Ingham. Carole completed her PhD in 2008.

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. A partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants, Lynette is involved in remote and on-site consultancy services for new and existing commercial greenhouse growers worldwide as well as research trials and product development for manufacturers of hydroponic products. Lynette authors five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and www.suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information.

Dr. Elaine Ingham is president of Soil Foodweb Inc., an interna-

Erik Biksa, leading expert in hydroponic technologies, holds a diploma in Agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Erik’s earliest gardening experiences began when he started to walk, learning the secrets of time honored, old-world gardening practices from his grandfather. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research while pushing the boundaries of crop growth technologies. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the “Ask Erik” column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world.

Roland Evans is lifelong gardener and CEO of Organic Bountea. As

Evan Folds is president of Progressive Gardens, a natural approach

Donald Lester is the Plant Products Manager at JH Biotech, Inc., a

land care company, and Progress Earth, all located in Wilmington, NC. With a degree in biology and religion, Evan’s interests include making sense of food production and bringing awareness to the myriad injustices we collectively perpetrate upon ourselves as a society, including empty food, municipal water fluoridation and spiritual intolerance. Evan is also a board member on the Progressive Gardening Trade Association.

tional laboratory system, that assesses the balance of bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes and mycorrhizal fungi in all materials. The major emphasis of her work is to return health to soil, so that natural nutrient cycling and disease suppression mechanisms are present, allowing the desired plants to grow without requiring use of pesticides or inorganic fertilizers.

a student and teacher of Holistic Systems, he actively promotes an ecological approach to cultivation using the Soil Food Web. Trained as a psychologist, Roland also writes on the interface between gardening and personal growth.

Ventura, California based agricultural technology company with 27 OMRI certified products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with an emphasis in entomology. He is an agricultural scientist with over 10 years of research experience and 50 scientific publications to his credit in the areas of entomology and plant pathology. He also serves as the director of SaferGro Laboratories, a sister company of JH Biotech, Inc.

Lee McCall graduated from Johnson and Wales University with a concentration in Culinary Arts. Culinary school opened the door to research and work with hydroponics and organic production. Currently, Lee attends business school in Denver and focuses on continuing advancements with Maximum Yield and indoor gardening technology.

Bob Taylor is the chief chemist of Flairform (www.flairform.com) - an

Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the President and Chief Executive

Noucetta Kehdi is the co-founder and administrator of General Hydroponics in Europe and has been in charge of conducting sales, marketing and public relations since 1995. Noucetta got involved in hydroponics in the early 1990’s at the White Owl Water Farm. In 1996 she moved to the southwest of France where she took care of a greenhouse under the assistance of William Texier. During that time she educated herself on all things hydroponics. A long time enthusiast of the technology, Noucetta loves to communicate her skills and knowledge and extend the boundaries of this amazing method of cultivation.

Officer of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., (www.biobizz.nl) a global leader in the production of organic fertilizers and soil mixtures in the hydroponic industry, which he launched in 2002. He is passionate about maintaining a business philosophy that identifies with the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life.

is under way. Enter now to win prizes from Current Culture, General Hydroponics, NGW and yours truly, Maximum Yield. Enter online by August 15 at www.maximumyield. com/winbig for your chance to be one of four lucky readers. Maximum Yield is proud to announce our allnew E-News online newsletter. Keep on top of the latest industry news, products, specials and more by subscribing to our monthly E-News at www.maximumyield.com What makes your garden grow? We want you to share some of your gardening secrets with our readers. Email “Your Best Advice” to editor@maximumyield. com and you could be featured in this all-new column. Keep Jessica Raymond, Editor growing and keep sending in those editor@maximumyield.com gardening tips!

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Australian based manufacturing company. Up until 1992, Bob was the principal chemist of the water resources section at Western Australia’s State Government Chemistry Centre. Bob was an approved NATA signatory for a wide range of water analyses as well as an official registered analyst for the government’s chemical analysis monitoring program of all fertilizers registered in Western Australia.

LETTERS TO the editor

Maximum Yield's E-News Keeps You Knowing and Growing all Month Long Do you have a newsletter I can sign up for? Please advise. Thanks, Bev Maximum Yield’s monthly E-News is now available, bringing you exclusive access to the latest information on the indoor gardening industry, new and original products and sneak peaks at what’s coming up on www. maximumyield.com and in Maximum Yield magazines. Plus, timely event listings from your corner of the globe, article teasers, fun photos, tips and ideas to keep you knowing and growing all month long. Sign up to receive a copy of Maximum Yield’s E-News in your inbox monthly by following this link: http://maximumyield.com/newsletter.php

Grow Medium Recipe Made Easy Thank you for the grow medium recipe in your Online Extras on www. maximumyield.com. It was fairly easy to create, and my plants just loved it. It was the perfect addition to Brian John’s article, Micropropagation in April USA. Thank you, Lynda Schazbury

Are LEDs As Good As They Say? For the first time today I have read your magazine, and I must say it was a good read. Could you provide me with additional information about LED grow lights? I have read about them and wonder are they as good as people trying to sell them say they are? If so, what ones are the best to buy? Many Thanks Mark As one of the most highly debated topics of our industry right now, our contributors have been heavily researching LEDs in order to bring you the most current information available. I recommend you check out such articles as LEDs: Light for Hyper Space Crops or Just Hype? by Erik Biksa (April 09’ USA) and Putting the LED in Indoor Growing by Benjamin Perrera (March 09’ USA). This month resident expert Erik Biksa examines the pros and cons of LEDs and how they compare to HID lighting. Flip to page 16 to learn more. 12

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

The Great LED Debate Continues The past four to five months I’ve noticed several different articles in Maximum Yield pertaining to topics like LEDs, sprouts and micro-greens and home food production. I work for an indoor hydroponic sprout and micro-greens producer in Pennsylvania. Our company and its founder have 35+ years experience in commercial harvesting of hydroponic sprouts and micro-greens. Recently we have started upgrading our HID lighting systems to LEDs with great results! Thanks Hunter Nicholson

Who Else Wants More On Lighting? The latest article on lighting and light meters by Philip McIntosh (May 09’ USA) was very informative and enlightening. Thank you. Tip of the hat! Eric

Good Eyes In your article, Of Meters and Measurements: Getting Light Right, there is a mistake under the heading, Light for Healthy Plants. So, what is the best way to measure light and set up lights Of Meters and for plants? The choice really boils MeasureMents: GettinG LiGht RiGht down to PPFD units (micromol s-2 m-2). It should be s-1. Thanks for the informative article. Along with water, carbon dioxide, oxygen and mineral nutrients, light is an absolute requirement for plants. Outdoor growers are at the mercy of weather and the seasons when it comes to providing light for photosynthesis, and most of the time, Mother Nature comes through. Unlike the outdoor grower, the greenhouse or indoor grower has a large measure of control over the lighting conditions provided to plants. In a greenhouse, natural light is available, but can be supplemented. Indoor operations rely entirely on artificial illumination. With a greater ability to adjust and regulate the intensity and quality of light provided to plants, comes a need to better understand the nature of light and how to analyze it.

Cheers, Ragnar Roeck

Plants and lIght: a QuIck RevIew Plant leaves reflect green light, which means that most of the useful light they absorb for photosynthesis is of another color. The colors of light most effective for driving photosynthesis are red and blue. Other colors contribute as well, but research shows that the absorption spectra of chlorophylls, the major light absorbing pigments, exhibit peaks at wavelengths of 430 to 450

by Philip McIntosh

100

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2009

Thanks for pointing that out. That one slipped by my proofing process. It should be micromol s^-1 m^-2 (or micromol M^-2 s^-1). Philip McIntosh

Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

We want to hear from you! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com

I N D O O R

G A R D E N I N G

VOLUME 10 – NUMBER 4 July 2009 Maximum Yield is published monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above.

WHAT’S NEW CONTESTS For July and August, Maximum Yield’s Win Big! Grow Big! online reader contest features three incredible products from leading innovators Current Culture, General Hydroponics and NGW. Also available to be won is tons of sweet gear from yours truly including a year’s subscription to the Maximum Yield edition of your choice. Enter online by August 15 at www. maximumyield.com/winbig

2009 Indoor Gardening Expo Tour The biggest indoor gardening event of the year is coming your way this month, July 25-26 with the “Growing our World Green” expo in San Francisco. Exciting details are forthcoming on the “Greener Places, Sustainable Spaces” Expo in Orlando (November 7-8), and Montreal in the spring of 2010.Visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com for more information.

Join us on Facebook Follow along with our beginner as she experiences the frustrations and triumphs that are expected with one’s first indoor grow. Also join in on the debate as we discuss the pros and cons of humic and fulvic acids, rooftop gardening and genetically modified crops.

VIDEOS & FEATURES Featured Products You’ve been asking for more information on the hot topic of cloning and we’ve been listening. This month we feature Sure to Grow’s Biodegradable Clone Insert and the TurboKlone from Everything Green Hydroponics.

Featured articles With summer in bloom, now is the time to focus on your outdoor vista. The perfect lawnscape awaits with the help of specialty wheatgrass that is both lush and fertile. Nature also provides assistance with creating the most optimal growing environment. Learn how in this month’s CO2 special feature.

ONLINE EXTRAS Wind, Earth, Water or Fire: Which CO2 Are You? by Erik Biksa

Learn how you can maintain higher and more precise levels of CO2 in your grow room by modifying simple air conditioners.

Shopping for Humic Acids by Donald Lester For easy reference, this downloadable humic acid table will be your constant sidekick when shopping for humics.

Growing Wasabi Japonica by Noucetta Kehdi Wild for wasabi? We have tons of tasty wasabi recipes that are sure to add spice to any palette.

Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you. 14

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092

PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Keri Hendry - keri@maximumyield.com Julie Madden - julie@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Pentti Tikkanen - pentti@maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS, BWGS West and BWGS East General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply Tradewinds CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Futchatec Growth Technology Hydraspher

ASK

erik

Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to editor@maximumyield.com with the words “Ask Erik” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.

Help! What's MY's opinion? Which produces greater yields and by how much? It's clear that LEDs are more energy efficient, so please, focus on the end product results. For what plant growth stages are LEDs most effective? Which LED products do you recommend and why? Under which lights are your plants? Thank you!

You are asking for a straight-forward answer, so I will do my best to give you a clear and concise response. However, please understand that there are a lot factors that need to be examined about your particular situation and the technologies before a “yay” or “nay” can be given. Let’s have a look at two different scenarios: The growing area is in a confined space, such as a closet adjacent to living areas. Moving large amounts of air quickly will pose a problem, for the sake of argument, due to the fact that access to fresh outside air will be difficult. And, there is nowhere to run ducting from an exhaust fan from the growing area to the outdoors or other areas of the dwelling. Even if it were possible to run duct work in this situation, let’s say that it is not desirable to ventilate due to the noise that will be created from moving air through fans rapidly - a common dilemma in urban apartment situations. In this scenario, you could choose a small wattage HID lamp such as a 250 watt ballast and bulb combo.Yes, you will get very bright and intense light in that small area that correlates to big yields and sometimes high quality. However, this will not be the case in this scenario. The heat generated by the lamp will make the growing area very hot and dry. The plants will be stressed and perform poorly, unable to take advantage of the intense lighting levels. Remember that your plants can only grow as well as the least limiting factor allows. In this case, higher than optimal temperatures will determine the best you can do, which is far below optimal.

Now to play the devil’s advocate; if in the same scenario running fans and ductwork were not a problem, or if there was easy access to an air-conditioner, the 250 watt HID would give you a better yield. Because environmental factors such as temperature and good air quality are met near optimal, the increased light intensity available from the 250 watt HID will allow the garden to produce better than with the 90 watt LED, as discussed above. Keep in mind that you are using more than double the electricity to do it. Although plus or minus 100 watts is really not that big an amount of electrical consumption by most standards, if considering it as a percentage difference. To further muddy the waters, consider that if you replaced the same 250 watt HID with 250 watts of high-output, next generation LED lighting (going watt for watt), you will probably get higher quality and heavier yields with the LED because they are so efficient in converting electricity to usable plant light. Using the same amount of electricity, you can get more plant available light with an LED. Results with LEDs vary with the output of the diodes and with the color combination of diodes. For flowering, results seem to be better with LEDs that have some orange and other spectra incorporated versus standard red and blue only. Keep in mind that high wattage LEDs are considerably more costly to purchase than HIDs, but last at least five times as long.

Alternatively, you could choose to use a 90 watt high-output LED grow light that uses one watt or greater diodes in the configuration. These units run extremely cool versus HID counterparts, and use less than half of the electricity. Because the unit runs so cool, and delivers much more exacting light spectrums than the 250 watt HID lamp, plants will not be stressed.Yes, the light levels are not as intense as with the HID, but other growing factors can run optimal such as temperature and CO2 levels. It is easy to increase and maintain higher CO2 levels in LED gardens versus HID gardens. The yield will likely be better than the 250 watt for this situation because while the environment is not as intense, it is closer to optimal than the first scenario due to the fact that excessive temperatures will not be created in the confined area. The plants are also likely to suffer fewer problems such as insects and diseases because they will not be stressed from very hot or dry air.

2 16

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Continued on page 18

ASK

erik

Continued from page 16

So in the end, the choice is yours. If there is lots of access to fresh air for air exchanges, the ability to run air-conditioning and lots of space, HIDs will give you big yields consistently, just be prepared for the expense. Running more electricity and investing more money in peripheral equipment such as exhaust and intake fans or air-conditioning are necessities when it comes to high yield HID lit gardens. With LEDs you spend more on the lights, and spend less on other items, because you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need to exhaust or cool the environment nearly as much, also simplifying CO2 supplementation, which can help boost growth rates and yields. Even if using HIDs for flowering to ensure big harvests, lower wattage LEDs are still great and provide lots of benefits for cuttings, mother plants and vegetative growth to shorter plants, for example, less than 18 inches tall. Much is known about the quality of HIDs from various manufacturers, as it has become a rather standardized industry. With LEDs, manufacturers range from the good to the bad to the ugly. Check around to see which types and from which manufacturers are working for growers in real world situations, and on what types of plants. For good quality LEDs be prepared to spend some money; many growers have found it to be worth it for certain situations. So in short, the answer is, it depends on how you want to garden, and what you are looking to get out of it. Great question; one that will be continued to be debated especially as higher wattage and fuller spectrum LEDs continue to emerge. Cheers, Erik Biksa

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Ultraviolet LEDs Create Darker, Redder Lettuce Richer In Antioxidants Darker colored leafy vegetables have been found to have higher levels of antioxidants than their lighter colored relations. Thus, plant physiologists have begun to develop a way to make lettuce darker and redder, and therefore healthier using ultraviolet lightemitting diodes (LEDs). When hit with ultraviolet rays from the sun, the lettuce leaf creates UV-absorbing polyphenolic compounds in its outer layer of cells. These powerful antioxidant compounds are sometimes red and help block ultraviolet radiation. To create red leaf lettuce plants enriched with these compounds, they were exposed to approximately 10 milliwats per square meter of UVB light from lowpower LEDs. After 43 hours of exposure, the lettuce was noticeably redder than other plants. How much exposure is required and whether the light should be pulsed or continuous is still being explored. (Source: Optical Society of America. “Ultraviolet LEDs Create Darker, Redder Lettuce Richer In Antioxidants.” ScienceDaily 18 May 2009. 20 May 2009 <http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/05/090518172659.htm>)

Studies Reveal How Plants Protect Us from Disease Molecular biologists have been conducting studies on how phytochemicals contained in everyday foods, beverages and spices help us fight harmful inflammation and reduce our risk of diseases associated with chronic inflammation, including cancer and diabetes. Studies have shown that phytochemicals can interfere with the normal flow of chemical signals or messages sent to and from cells involved in chronic inflammation and if unimpeded, could reach and activate genes that can trigger an inflammatory response. The study also suggests that different phytochemicals have different ways of interfering with these messages. (Source: www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2009/090406.htm)

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Biocontrol Agents Combat Invasive Chilli Thrips An invasive pest known as chilli thrips, which attacks up to 150 crops including peppers, strawberries, tomatoes, peanuts, cotton and ornamentals, may have finally met its match. The pest was discovered in Palm Beach County, Fla. in 2005, and has since spread to 24 Florida counties and parts of Texas. Without resistance, it could reach west to California and north along the Pacific Coast to Canada, causing losses of up to $3.8 billon annually. Because the thrips are able to develop resistance against pesticides, researchers have turned to two mites, Neoseiulus cucumeris and Amblyseius swirskiim, to combat the pests. These biocontrol agents have been successful against chilli thrips, leaving no more than one thrip per leaf in greenhouse tests. (Source: www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2009/090428.htm)

Hydro for Hunger Hits $100,000 Mark, Unveils New Website Thanks to the generosity of independent hydroponic manufacturers, merchants and hobbyists, Hydro for Hunger recently saw its total donations surpass the $100,000 mark, tallying just over $107,000 in the first quarter of 2009. “This is a huge accomplishment for the program and its supporters. Everyone involved should feel proud of their contributions to fight world hunger,” said spokesperson Kari Bayne. Since the program’s 2002 inception, all funds raised have benefited the Institute of Simplified Hydroponics, a not-forprofit organization educating inneed communities around the world to become self-sufficient using fundamental hydroponic gardening methods. 2009 has also seen a complete overhaul to the program’s website at www.hydroforhunger.org. In addition to learning more about the fundraising initiative, visitors can see Hydro for Hunger sponsors and their designated products; find where to buy Hydro for Hunger products via an implemented zip code search feature; read articles and view photos illustrating the work of the Institute of Simplified Hydroponics; and pledge to contribute as a manufacturer, retailer or hydroponic enthusiast. Please visit www.hydroforhunger.org to find out more about Hydro for Hunger and www.carbon.org for more on the Institute of Simplified Hydroponics.

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Lone Oak Organics Announces Grand Opening Lone Oak Organics has announced the completion and grand opening of their hydroponic greenhouse. The company’s greenhouse, located in Hillsboro, utilizes hydroponic technology to grow organic herbs and vegetables for St. Louis restaurants, grocery stores and farmer’s markets. Lone Oak Organics places a strong emphasis on sustainable agriculture and is proud to grow fresh, organic produce throughout all four seasons. Built with functionality and sustainability in mind, the greenhouse is heated by a biomass burning furnace during the winter, making use of renewable resources and avoiding fossil fuel usage. Additionally, all of the growing resources and fertilizers are on a timed schedule through the implementation of a vertical-drip hydroponic system. The system reduces the amount of water and fertilizer lost from runoff. Lone Oak Organics focuses only on the local, St. Louis region, using less energy for shipping. Minimizing the supply chain connected to transportation significantly reduces the company’s carbon footprint. To learn more about Lone Oak Organics, LLC, visit www.loneoakorganics. com or call 1-314-520-0438.

“Growing our World Green” 6th Annual San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo This July, San Francisco will be host to the biggest Indoor Gardening Expo of the year, the “Growing our World Green” 6th Annual San Francisco Expo (July 25-26, 2009). The excitement has been building all year for this highly-anticipated event. New advances in lighting, nutrients, organics, pest control and water-wise gardening will be just a few of the environmentally friendly gardening solutions showcased. There will also be an education station, tons of prizes and fun to be had by everyone. For all show information including special hotel rates and show exhibitors, visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com. (Source: www.indoorgardenexpo.com)

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

2009 Healthy Sprouts Awards

As a way to support improved nutrition and help fight child obesity and hunger, the National Gardening Association (NGA) recognizes outstanding youth garden programs through the Healthy Sprouts Awards. Sponsored by Gardener’s Supply Company (GSC), these awards support school and youth programs that teach about nutrition and the issue of hunger in the United States. Schools planning to garden in 2010 with at least 15 children, aged three to 18, are eligible to enter for the 2009 awards. The winner will receive gift certificates toward the purchase of gardening materials from Gardener’s Supply Company, NGA’s “Eat a Rainbow Kit,” 25 packets of seeds and an NGA literature package. Five winners will receive a $500 GSC gift certificate and $200 will go to 15 additional schools. All applications must be submitted by October 17, 2009. (Source: www.kidsgardening.org/healthysprouts.asp)

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Herbicide-Resistant Plant Gene Developed Researchers have developed a genome engineering tool to make an herbicide-resistant model crop plant without significantly changing its DNA. This approach has the potential to help scientists modify plants to produce food, fuel and fiber sustainably while minimizing concerns about genetically modified organisms. A customized enzyme called a zinc finger nuclease (ZFN) was created for the study to change single genes in tobacco plant cells. The altered cells were then cultured to produce mature plants that survived exposure to herbicides. The next step will be to apply the technology to Arabidopsis thaliana, a model plant, and rice, the world’s most important food crop. Algae is also being adapted for biofuel production. (Source: University of Minnesota. “New Technique For Modifying Plant Genes Developed.” ScienceDaily 4 May 2009. 20 May 2009 <http://www.sciencedaily. com/releases/2009/04/ 090429132233.htm>)

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

National Arboretum Unveils First Solar-Powered Irrigation System As part of a longrange plan to update and improve the U.S. National Arboretum’s grounds, the first solar-powered drip irrigation system is being installed. The new system, consisting of six solar panels, a battery that stores energy and a converter box that converts stored energy into electricity, will save electricity and water at the 446-acre facility operated in Washington, DC. The arboretum will also be saving on costs as well, as installing solar the panels was less expensive than running an electrical line from a main power source, approximately a half mile away. The new system took less than one year to complete and will serve as a model for more energy-efficient landscape gardening. (Source: www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2009/090427.htm)

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Can Organic Cropping Systems Be as Profitable as Conventional Systems? In 1990, agronomists established the Wisconsin Integrated Cropping Systems Trial (WICST), in order to better understand the differences between conventional cropping systems and organic farming, and to decide which of the two is more profitable. Systems ranging from species-diverse pasture and organic systems to more specialized conventional alfalfa-based forage and corn-based grain systems were compared. Studies found that diversified systems were more profitable than monocropping. This study indicates that governmental policy that supports mono-culture systems is outdated and support should be shifted to programs that promote crop rotations and organic farming practices. (Source: American Society of Agronomy. “Can Organic Cropping Systems Be As Profitable As Conventional Systems?.” ScienceDaily 7 April 2009. 20 May 2009 <http://www.sciencedaily.com/ releases/2009/04/090406132600.htm>)

How Healthy Are Your Nutrients? Small Choices That Make a Big Difference

Did you know that a product labeled as all natural does not necessarily mean it is certified organic? Learn what makes a product 100 per cent organic and how to spot the best nutrient mixes for your plants. Revitalize your plants with organic and natural sourced fertilizers. Slow release work well too as they continue to work and slowly break down. Over time, soil fertility is re-established, and the need for supplements will decline. Below is a list of various supplements and how they can be utilized to their best ability. Seed Meals Seed meals are a nitrogen source (N) perfect for healthy leafy greens. Rock Phosphate Rock phosphate provides a source of phosphorus (P) for fruits and flowers. Kelp Meal Kelp meal contains potassium (potash) (K), great for roots and overall good health. Lime Lime counteracts soil acidity and adds calcium and magnesium.

by Susan Slobac Tips to remember: • Avoid nitrate-based fertilizers, which are synthetic, as they often contain a high salt index that can cause root burning and dehydration. • Organic and natural fertilizers are derived from a plant, animal or mineral source, not those containing USDA certified organic materials. Organic fertilizers won’t dry or burn your medium; instead they will rehabilitate soil quality and improve the general health of your garden. • Natural fertilizers should contain ingredients such as bone meal, kelp meal and alfalfa meal. Natural fertilizers break down in the soil slowly, which is more beneficial to plants. Avoid natural fertilizers with peat moss, which is harvested from swiftly disappearing bog habitats. • When buying fertilizers, look for those with a seal from the Organic Materials Review Institute, which means they can be used on USDA certified organic farms. • Fertilize with compost tea. • Plant food should consist of nitrogen, phosphates and potash. Without proper food they won’t thrive and flourish. Just like MY humans need food, plants grown indoors do too.

About the author: From years of indoor and hydroponic gardening, Susan Slobac has developed an in-depth knowledge of hydroponic nutrients and writes frequently on the subject. (www.articlesbase.com)

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Welcome Little Brother It has already been more than 18 years since the launch of Biobizz’s Light Mix as an ideal potting soil for organic gardeners who want to have control over the growing process through the application of liquid fertilizers. Slightly fertilized, it ensures a fast development of roots and vigorous new growth. The soil is composed to optimize drainage throughout the medium, which is essential for usage with automatic watering systems. Finally after many requests, the little brother has arrived, Light-Mix (4.4 gallons). Ask your local retailer for the upcoming new kid on the block and what kind of introductory offers they have.

Mondi Makes the Best Even Better The original was awesome, and now the improved Mondi Deluxe Mist N’ Spray is even better! Constructed from heavy-duty plastic and ergonomically designed for safe and comfortable extended use, this premium version features an all-metal pump and nozzle for improved durability and a longer life. This sprayer also has an increased 2.1 quart capacity, and its convenient swivel nozzle effortlessly switches from spray to mist. Protected by a two-year manufacturer’s warranty. Ask for it at an indoor gardening store near you.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

TurboKlone™ - Aeroponic Kloning System It’s finally here! The T96 is the newest addition to TurboKlone’s fleet of high performance aeroponic kloners. With TurboKlone you’ll get propagation with an integrated cooling system that keeps temperatures low and helps roots grow super strong. TurboKlone boasts up to a 60 per cent increase in klone sites compared to other systems of similar size. All this without compromising space between sites! Join the revolution and experience how TurboKlone can help you grow better, stronger and faster than ever before! We’re rooting for you! For more information visit a hydroponic retailer near you.

All-New Lumatek 1000 Watt Dual E-Ballast The Lumatek 1000 watt dual voltage E-ballast powers both metal halide and high-pressure sodium lamps. It will provide the power you need to grow hearty, healthy crops throughout the year. • up to 20 per cent more lumens; faster growth, bigger harvests • unique graduated fin design for more efficient cooling • completely pre-wired with popular BAREF lamp cord • three years full + two years warranty • internal resin coating protects components for long life • external breaker system protects against power surges • completely silent Now available at authorized retailers near you.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

PRODUCT spotlight

New Plant Nutrition from Cutting Edge Solutions You’re giving your plants the latest in nutrition technology when you give them Cutting Edge Solutions nutrients and supplements! Cutting Edge Bloom (0-6-5), Grow (2-1-6) and Micro (6-0-0) are the components of one great threepart hydroponic nutrient system, which was developed to overcome indoor gardening challenges ranging from climate extremes to poor water quality. They tested and tweaked the formulation until it was perfect, and their work has paid off for gardeners in the form of an affordable, high-quality nutrient system that works with a wide array of plants! Plant Amp is pure calcium, chelated with organic acids to improve plant absorption so plants will have a much easier time taking advantage of its benefits. Uncle John’s Blend (0-0-2) is a high-phosphorous bloom formula that uses carbohydrates to deliver awesome yields. Mag Amped is composed of a pure magnesium chelate that’s easily absorbed, which is great for ensuring that plants with limited light exposure don’t suffer the negative effects of low chlorophyll. Nutrients and supplements from Cutting Edge Solutions are now available at your local retailer.

Sealed Xtreme Reflectors from C.A.P. C.A.P. LumenAire and LumeCool Xtreme Reflectors are now sealed for maximum air movement and more efficient cooling. All Xtreme reflectors by Custom Automated Products feature internal reflective surfaces made from AlumaBrite, a highly reflective imported aluminum, as well as built-in sockets and 15 foot lamp cords. These units come complete with tempered hinged glass and will accept ducting to be air-coolable. C.A.P. Reflectors carry a best in the industry, Lifetime Warranty. For more information on C.A.P. Xtreme Reflectors please contact your local retailer.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

pH Electrode Storage from Flairform Flairform’s SilikaMajic Did you know that some silica products contain zero “available” silica? • The ‘reactive’ silica in SilikaMajic is extremely stable. This ensures SilikaMajic is able to deliver all the benefits of silica. • Super concentrated (26 per cent potassium silicate): Use at ¹/6 of a teaspoon per gallon. Feedback from growers confirms why silica is essential: • increased strength and rigidity of stems and leaves • increased fruit weight • improved healing of pruning wounds • increased tolerance to high salinity More information can be found at your local indoor gardening retailer.

Dry storage of pH electrodes is the most common cause of pH meter failure. Flairform’s pH Electrode Storage solution prevents dehydration of the glass electrode and porous frit (or wick). This helps: • Maintain electrode accuracy and response time. • Eliminate reading ‘drift.’ • Maximize electrode life-span. Did you know? pH buffers 7.0 or 4.0 and distilled water are not suitable for storing pH electrodes as they can upset electrode calibration. Electrode storage solutions are carefully structured formulations that do not interfere with the chemical composition of the liquid/gel that is contained within the electrode. More information can be found at your local indoor gardening retailer. Continued on page 142

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Short and Sweet Growing Dwarf Flowers Part II by Dr. Lynette Morgan

Grown for both scent and color, flowering stocks are a good choice for indoor areas.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Dwarf flowers will happily grow alongside vegetable plants indoors to give a bright and cheerful display.

Genetic dwarf varieties of some popular and unique cut flower types are widely available as both seed and cell pack transplants and these compact, self supporting versions are perfect for indoor growing areas with limited space. Impressive displays of colorful summer blooming species, manipulated into bloom with the use of long day lengths provided by HID lamps, and wafts of delicate fragrance from a well planned ‘scented’ garden can make any indoor garden a pleasure to maintain. Scented sensations Just because a plant has been genetically downsized doesn’t mean the color or fragrance have to be minimized as well. Scented indoor plants are a real bonus and fragrances are often more intense where there is no wind to dissipate the aroma. Long stemmed, scented, cut flowers such as snapdragons (Antirrhinum), stocks (Matthiola incana) and sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) all have dwarf versions in a range of color options. These are annual plants and will flower for many months indoors provided spent flowers are removed to allow more shoots to develop. Stocks and snapdragons are cooler season plants, so they don’t necessarily need a fully heated grow room to grow and flower year round; a windowsill or conservatory are both good places for

these colorful dwarfs. Since most of the varieties of these dwarf plants don’t grow much taller than 10 inches they also perform well under compact fluorescent lamps and in vertical systems where some shading might exist. Dwarf varieties such as appleblossom and the cinderella series, snapdragon varieties ‘double sweetheart mix’ and ‘bronze dragon’ and sweet pea cultivar ‘sugar and spice,’ are available from seed suppliers and relatively easy to germinate. Sweet pea seeds benefit

from soaking in warm water overnight before sowing, while tiny snapdragon seeds should only be lightly covered with growing media. Stock seed is fast and easy to germinate, however, varieties should be chosen that give a high percentage of double versus single flowers as these are far more attractive. The cinderella stock mix typically only has 55 to 60 per cent double flowers. However, with stock seedlings, the individual plants which will produce double flowers can be selected from the seed tray a week or two after germination. This can be done by chilling the young plants approximately seven days after germination for a week and then discarding the greener, more robust plant while keeping the more yellow or chlorotic looking seedlings. These yellow seedlings will later produce double flowers, while the greener seedlings can be identified as having the inferior single flowers. Stocks, snapdragons and dwarf sweet peas will look best if grown at a moderately high density where light levels allow, with EC levels of at least 2.0 mScm-1 or higher as this will help keep the plants compact and highly colored. Good air movement is also important when aiming for these dense displays of dwarf plants, as is selecting any hybrids which might have resistance to common diseases such as mildew and rust.

Indoor flower displays don’t need a lot of space if dwarf plants are selected for confined areas.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Short and Sweet: Growing Dwarf Flowers - Part II

Short in stature but not in flower power – double flowered dwarf zinnias come in a range of bright colors.

Warm season dwarfs year round One of the major advantages of indoor gardening is not having to follow the seasons – summer flowering plants such as zinnia and carnations can bloom in mid winter if sufficient light, day length and warmth are provided. Zinnias are popular cut flowers, grown commercially in greenhouse hydroponic systems for long

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

stems and bright, vibrant blooms with a long shelf life. There is a limited range of dwarf zinnias available as seed, compared to the huge selection of stock and snapdragon colors and types, however, dwarf zinnias are easy and quick to grow and perform well in solution culture and media based hydroponic systems. F1 hybrid dwarf zinnias give the best performance indoors as the genetic uniformity means a group or mass display can be achieved in a hydroponic system with plants of the same height and number of buds. Double flowered zinnias such as ‘profusion double,’ ‘megelian mix’ and ‘parasol mix’ are the most popular of the dwarf types and many have a large flower on a short, branched plant. Colors are intense, particularly the "Zinnias prefer heat and high light and are fairly tolerant of the intense conditions directly under HID lamps, although they require frequent watering if not grown in an automated system."

pinks and yellows, and will brighten up any dull area. Zinnias prefer heat and high light and are fairly tolerant of the intense conditions directly under HID lamps, although they require frequent watering if not grown in an automated system.

Dwarf zinnias are a warm season plant that performs well in heated grow rooms under HID lighting.

Short and Sweet: Growing Dwarf Flowers - Part II

Single and double flowered plants of stock can be separated by leaf color in the early seedling stage.

Dwarf carnations are compact, bushy plants that don’t grow any taller than 10 – 12 inches under optimal conditions.

Dwarf carnations (Dianthus caryophyllus), unlike their tall cut flower counterparts, grow to less than 10 inches in height, although certain growing conditions can make them ‘stretch,’ and they need a reasonable level of high intensity light for plants to remain compact. Dwarf carnation flower colors range from white to various shades of pink, orange, yellow, red and purple and seed can often be purchased as a color mix. The ‘monarch’ and ‘lilipot’ series are good examples of dwarf carnation varieties that are suited to indoor and hydroponic production. Carnations have the advantage of not only being a perennial plant that can

be grown for a number of seasons, but they can also be propagated by a number of different methods including seed, cuttings and layering. Dwarf carnations generally have a very branched growth habit with compact growth that does not require pinching out of the growing points and most varieties will flower in the first season from seed. The important consideration with dwarf carnations is that these are ‘long day’ plants and need at least 13 hours of light for three to four weeks to initiate flower buds, which is relatively easy to provide under grow lamps even in the depths of winter.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Short and Sweet: Growing Dwarf Flowers - Part II the effort. Lisianthus is most difficult in the early stages when growing from seed and considerable care is needed to get the plants from seed through to the transplanting stage, which can take many months. Indoor gardeners can avoid these problems by buying in plug seedlings or small plants from nurseries and transferring them to a media based hydroponic system. Where buying in plug plants is not an option, growing from seed is more

Lisianthus flowers range in color from white, to pink, green, purple and bi-colors.

For those who like a challenge… Lisianthus (Eustoma graadiflora) is a spectacular cut flower, sometimes mistaken for a rose, which can now be found in use by many florists. The genetically dwarf versions of this crop have only recently been made available under years of extensive breeding. Lisianthus, sometimes called prairie gentian, is native to the western continental United States and is not a traditional garden plant; hence, indoor displays of the plants, flowers and unique spiral buds tend to attract a lot of atten-

Lisianthus flowers are striking although the plants can be slow and challenging to raise from seed.

Unique spiral buds of the lisianthus plant.

Young lisianthus plants perform well in hydroponic systems provided they are not over watered.

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tion. As a commercial crop, lisianthus has undergone rapid breeding to take it from an irregular, rather weedy single flowered plant to an elegant cut bloom and more recently a striking dwarf potted plant with a range of colors. Genetically dwarf lisianthus varieties include the ‘sapphire’ pink and blue series (Park Seed) and the ‘florida’ series (Pan American seed). Dwarf Lisianthus plants are not the easiest to produce and are rather slow growing, however, the display they create when in full bloom is well worth

reliable using hydroponic methods and a well controlled propagation area. Lisianthus seed is tiny and for this reason is usually supplied in pelleted form which is easier to handle and sow. The seed needs light to germinate (at least 100 lux) and many seed failures have been caused by covering the seed with either media or paper/cloth to retain moisture.Vermiculite is an excellent seed raising medium and has the advantage of being free from pathogens. Lisianthus is also very sensitive to salts in the early stages and should only be given water during the germination stage and dilute nutrient solution (with no ammonium form of nitrogen) until the time of transplanting into a hydroponic system or pot. Ideal temperatures during this stage are 68°F to 72°F with germination taking between 14 to 25 days at which stage the media should be left to dry out a little. Seedlings should be transferred to larger pots when they have

Short and Sweet: Growing Dwarf Flowers - Part II developed three or four true leaves and this may take as long as five months. Suitable growing media for lisianthus are those which drain freely, but still hold some moisture between nutrient applications and those which will not cause a build up of salts on the media surface. Coconut fiber media, rockwool, coir/perlite and perlite/vermiculite mixes appear to be good substrates for dwarf lisianthus plants, as these can be allowed to dry slightly on the surface to prevent any problems from fungus gnat infestations. Apart from problems during the early stages of lisianthus growth, they are also prone to delays in flowering; however, HID lamps can be used to extend the day length to 14 hours per day and induce flowering once the plants have formed sufficient foliage. Hydroponically grown lisianthus are considered to be heavy feeders and prefer an EC of 2.0 to 2.8 mS cm-1, however the EC should be regularly checked in the system as increases in

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

"The double flowered lisianthus used for cut flower production can be artificially dwarfed with use of growth retardant (PGR) compounds." concentration of the solution above these levels can lead to delays in flowering and ‘rosetting’ in some cultivars. While most dwarf lisianthus plants grown in indoor gardens are true genetically short plants, these are mostly single flowered types. The double flowered lisianthus used for cut flower production such as the ‘echo series’ can, however, be artificially dwarfed with use of growth retardant (PGR) compounds used in the nursery industry to keep potted plants compact. Use of growth retardants for flower species such as lisianthus can produce some excellent results if growers are willing to experiment with the dose and application timing of the dwarfing compounds.

Coconut fiber media, combined with moderately high EC levels to maintain compact plants, give good results with many dwarf flowers like these young snapdragons.

Short and Sweet: Growing Dwarf Flowers - Part II

Snapdragons, bright and fragrant, grow well in hydroponic systems and can handle cooler conditions.

Snapdragons have a wide range of colors and flower types from single to double flowered and even a bronze leaved type.

Hydroponic systems for dwarf flowers Dwarf flowers generally look best as group or even mass plantings rather than single plants and the most colorful displays often incorporate more than one species. Hydroponic systems that incorporate a mix of vegetables and dwarf flowers can also look great when color combinations are given some thought. Bright green butter head lettuce alongside a row of dwarf, bronze leaved snapdragons or yellow zinnias against a back drop of ripening tomatoes in NFT or similar systems make for something a little different and highly attractive. Indoor vertical or â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;stack/towerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; systems are also ideal for dwarf flowering plants under HID lamps, with the higher light/heat requiring species planted in the upper layers. As with any indoor garden, some consideration should be given to final plant height, time to flowering and nutrient requirements. However, dwarf flowers give the option of a vast array of colors and also some fragrance MY to enhance any sized growing area. Seed Sources: www.jtmseeds.com www.parkseed.com

www.neseed.com www.johnnyseeds.com

All of Dr. Lynette Morgan's articles are available on www.maximumyield.com

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

GROWING for health

The Beet Goes On With its distinctively sweet flavor, and deep purplish-red shade, it is surprising that we don’t hear more about the very versatile root vegetable known as the beet. Grown outdoors, the beet will peak in the winter and summer, but brought inside, this antioxidant-rich vegetable will grow all year. Beets are rich in folic acid and betacyanine, the antioxidant that gives beets their rich color. The entire plant is useable with a wealth of nutrients in the savory greens as well as the texturized beet plant. Betacyanines have been known to fight and prevent various types of cancer, particularly colon cancer. Because of its superior cleansing abilities, it is a good choice for maintaining a healthy liver. Beets are also recommended for kidney, gallbladder, stomach and intestinal problems. Beets provide rich amounts of calcium, iron, magnesium and phosphorus – a good tonic for the blood, and are also said to strengthen the heart. They will grow well under a variety of light sources including fluorescents, incandescents, high pressure sodiums and metal halides. The seedlings are best started under fluorescents. Beets thrive in a wide range of temperatures and take up very little space, making them an ideal choice for an indoor crop. They

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

by Aubree Gail Gagné

should be fed lightly with food that is higher in nitrogen and watered well. Watch out for black, rough scrabs on the plants as that may be a sign of boron deficiency. Beets also prefer a neutral pH (7.0). The ways in which one can enjoy beets are limitless. Here are just some of the many ways that beets can be prepared: • steamed or sautéed • beet juice • salad addition or beet salad • healthy side • appetizer • beet slaw • spring rolls • gingered • soup/borsch • roasted • boiled Although beets can be picked at any size, the best flavor can be found when they are pulled at full-size. And don’t forget, you can eat the greens too. MY

Wind, Earth, Water or Fire: Which

CO 2 Are You? by Erik Biksa

There is little debate over the fact that increasing carbon dioxide (CO2) levels in the growing environment will increase growth rates, give bigger yields and reduce overall cropping time. There is varying information on what levels are optimal in different growth phases, for the type of crop and even in varying nutrient programs. Carbon dioxide can be supplied with wind (fresh air), earth (natural fermentation or bio-activity), water (liquid CO2; compressed gas) or fire (gas fired CO2 generators). Each method of delivering CO2 to crops has its own unique qualities, capabilities and with some methods, even limitations. Growers who want to have the most productive gardens and biggest yields will first take the time to create an optimal and controllable growing environment for their crop. Only then will the grower be able to realize their cropâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s full potential with carbon dioxide enrichment. The benefits attainable by supplementing CO2 levels in the growing environment will largely be determined by how accurately and how steadily the grower can maintain the elevated levels of CO2. There are also practical considerations which include cost, level of skill required and the overall controllability of the existing growing environment. 60

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For the best results when supplementing carbon dioxide, the growing area should be able to function as “sealed” as possible. I have been discussing CEA (controlled environment agriculture) methods for many years now. In short, a “sealed” or “perfect” grow room has minimal to no outside air exchanges. The wind method of delivering CO2 to crops is found in traditional in/out style, mechanically vented gardens. By supplying a constant flow of fresh air through the canopy from outside air, then exhausting it out, CO2 is supplied at ambient (low) levels. In this method, the highest levels of CO2 you can hope to achieve are ambient levels - the average CO2 level of outside air before it becomes depleted of CO2 by the crop for growth. Average ambient CO2 levels range from 350 to 650 ppm (parts per million). While this is sufficient to sustain average growth and flowering rates, for high yielding crops that produce at faster rate you will need more. To do so, the environment has to be enriched with additional levels of CO2. Enriched levels become defeated with constant air exchange as the CO2 is sucked out of the room (usually to ventilate heat away). This is why to achieve maximum yields with CO2 supplementation the grower needs to run a tighter or sealed environment.

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Wind, Earth, Water or Fire: Which CO2 Are You? “Decomposition and fermentation produce carbon dioxide, and are responsible for a portion of our ambient CO2 levels here on earth.” The easiest way to construct a CEA environment is to use an air-conditioner instead of a vent fan in the grow room for cooling purposes. There are specialty air conditioners available that are highly suited for use in grow rooms. Otherwise, simple air conditioners, even “window bangers” can be modified for use in a sealed growing environment with carbon dioxide supplementation. Besides being able to maintain higher and more precise levels of CO2 in the growing atmosphere, the grower will have precision control over the grow room’s most important parameter - temperature. To reduce electrical costs by cutting down on the frequency of cycling by the AC, growers can install or continue to use their air-cooled lighting systems. These still keep the environment “sealed” because the hot air removed by the reflectors from the lamps is sealed off from the growing environment by the protective glass. This helps to keep the additional CO2 in the room where it belongs, while removing heat from the largest source in the grow room - the lamps. If an air-conditioner isn’t possible, go with the air-cooled reflectors and a “smart” environmental controller, such as the unit featured in this article. This way, the exhaust fans won’t need to empty the air out of the room as often to evacuate heat when using air-cooled lighting. The air cooled shades will keep most of the heat out of the grow room. The exhaust fan(s) will only cycle on when the temperature or humidity set-points are exceeded. The “smart” feature of the controller will stop your CO2 enrichment from running (tank/ regulator or gas fired generator) when the exhaust cycles, saving you from wasting money generating valuable CO2 that is being exhausted out with the hot air. This way, the air-cooled lighting will take away most of the heat, and the exhaust fan will need to cycle much less frequently, affording the grower a window to boost CO2 above ambient levels, greatly improving yields and growth rates. When the exhaust does cycle, you won’t be wasting valuable CO2 thanks to the integrated controller.

This readout demonstrates that Earth methods of generating CO2 can be effective, although very difficult to control. These CO2 levels did not prove to be excessive, although wasteful. The high readings were achieved during the primary fermentation of beer in an LED environment.

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So now that we have discussed wind, let’s move onto earth. How does one get CO2 from earth? Well the truth is, decomposition and fermentation produce carbon dioxide, and are responsible for a portion of our ambient CO2 levels here on earth. While this method can produce some additional levels of CO2 in growing environments, it’s typically limited to being effective for very small scale gardens and less intensive growing environments. There is little or no control as to the level of CO2 that is produced and dispersed by these natural processes, and the output of CO2 will vary through the biological process producing the CO2. To raise CO2 levels past ambient into the growth excelling 1000 to 2000 ppm range, you will need a very tightly sealed environment and will likely have to replenish your source of bio-carbon dioxide frequently. Also, to generate a significant and sustained amount of CO2 for the crop, you will likely need a large volume of the bio-materials used to create the process in the grow room. Unless you have a boundless room, the space in the growing room is more productively filled with plants. For example in a three foot squared grow tent, you will need to devote about 25 per cent of your floor area to a fermentation bucket or carboy going the route of fermentation to boost CO2 levels. However, note that using LED lights to decrease ventilation requirements and a five gallon primary fermentation tank in a three foot squared hydro hut allowed the author to achieve 2800 ppm of CO2 during the primary fermentation, which lasts just a few days. During the secondary fermentation, average levels were 900 ppm of CO2, lasting for about 10 days. There are some innovative products that use a natural composting process to deliver small, but continuous amounts of CO2 to gardens. These can help to improve growth rates in smaller tightly sealed gardens. However, they are not controllable, and do not produce large amounts of CO2 on demand. Most plants will not use carbon dioxide during the dark cycle, so the CO2 generated through Earth methods is somewhat wasted, although it is of no harm to plants to supply CO2 during the dark cycle. Moving up the ranks of effective CO2 supplementation for bigger yields, we arrive at water. For our purposes water will embody liquid carbon dioxide or compressed gas used in CO2 supplementation. Typically, this is supplied by either 20 pound or 50 pound tanks that contain liquid CO2/compressed gas. The tanks alone will not provide the increased garden performance levels that CO2 offers.

Wind, Earth, Water or Fire: Which CO2 Are You?

A high quality regulator and solenoid will show the flow rate of CO2 dispersed from tanks in cubic feet per hour. The little ball actually floats on the discharge of gas to indicate the flow rate. For smaller well sealed gardens, bottled CO2 is an affordable and relatively safe way to increase growth rates and yields. Be prepared to replace tanks frequently.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

If you choose to increase your yields and growth rates with liquid/compressed CO2 tank, you will need a high quality “REG set-up,” which consists of a precision regulator/flow gauge and an industrial solenoid valve. The unit featured in this article is of extremely high quality and is relatively inexpensive when comparing to high-output gas fired CO2 generators. The flow rate is completely adjustable and gives the grower a visual indication that there is pressure in the tanks (you haven’t run out of gas) and indicates when the gas is flowing and at what rate. The little ball that floats in the set-up tells you exactly at what rate the gas is leaving the tank; allowing growers using timed CO2 to make more precise calculations. It’s fun to watch too! You will either need a timer that controls both the frequency and duration of CO2 injections from the tank, or a carbon dioxide level sensor/controller unit to activate the solenoid in the REG

set-up. The “smart” CO2 controller featured in this article allows growers not using infrared CO2 level monitors to dose CO2 into the growing atmosphere at controlled intervals and amounts. There are plenty of articles that describe how to perform the relatively simple calculations that will tell you how much gas to release to achieve the desired CO2 ppm level in the growing atmosphere. The grower needs to know their flow rate, desired CO2 levels and the volume of the growing area. The calculation will tell the grower how long the CO2 needs to be emitted and how often (duration and frequency) Remember that “smart” integrated controllers will shut off CO2 if exhaust systems are active; saving your CO2 for better use. If you run a sealed environment, you will get the most out of your CO2 set-up by controlling CO2 levels with an infrared CO2 monitor. This allows the grower to create exacting levels of CO2 in the

Wind, Earth, Water or Fire: Which CO2 Are You? “Bottled CO2 released is heavier than most air and can settle, so it needs to be kept stirred and blowing across the plant’s leaves during the light cycle with fans.” plant environment efficiently, taking the guess work out of CO2 supplementation. Prices vary, and are dependent on the number of features and level of control you desire. Some units allow you to control more than one REG or generator from the same unit (dual probes), while others may use “fuzzy logic” to improve efficiency. Always make sure that the unit you choose can be serviced by the factory or place of purchase. CO2 monitors are expensive precision instruments that may require re-calibration or fine-tuning from time to time. Overall, bottled CO2 gas is relatively safe to use; make sure you use the beverage grades and avoid welding grades as they contain impurities. The CO2

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emitted from tanks adds no additional heat or significant humidity to the growing area versus gas fired generators. The gas is relatively easy to disperse through the plant canopy. Simply connect one end of the specialty tubing supplied with your REG set-up to a strategically positioned oscillating fan(s), and the other end to the REG set-up. Plug the REG into your CO2 sensor, timer or integrated environmental controller, and your plants can begin to grow at accelerated rates and give you bigger yields. Bottled CO2 released is heavier than most air and can settle, so it needs to be kept stirred and blowing across the plant’s leaves during the light cycle with fans. Bottled CO2 works great for smaller well sealed grow areas with minimal air exchanges. It does require frequent replacement, which means lugging large heavy gas cylinders that look like missiles here and there. The cost of adding CO2 to the growing environment is highest

using bottled CO2 amongst wind, earth, water and fire methods described here. The initial equipment purchase costs are moderate, especially if using a timed systems; it’s the frequent replacement of the heavy tanks that becomes costly and laborious. If you have never tried using CO2 in your garden before, a tank, good quality REG and integrated controller are an easy and less expensive way to give it a try. Look for a controller that can also accommodate an infrared ppm sensor so that when you are ready to upgrade, you can still use your existing equipment. Your plants will begin to grow at accelerated rates, so pay extra attention to your watering and feeding methods. As we move to fire in our CO2 enrichment hierarchy, consider fire to be a friend and beneficial elemental state, although not to be toyed with or taken lightly. Gas-fired CO2 generators are our fire in the scheme of yield boosting CO2 supplementation.

Wind, Earth, Water or Fire: Which CO2 Are You? To supplement CO2 levels in the growing environment, CO2 generators or “burners” ignite fossil fuels such as natural gas (NG) or propane (LP) to create a highly clean and efficient combustion to burn oxygen out of the air and produce carbon dioxide in abundance as a result of the fire process. The combustion also creates warmth and moisture in the air. In sealed environments running with airconditioners, the extra moisture in the air is welcome to help keep humidity levels at optimum, as ACs tend to de-humidify

the air when operating. In greenhouses or cooler months, the additional heat generated can be welcome, while in most situations it will require cooling by AC. Cooling the growing area with exhaust fans defeats fire as an efficient means to supplement CO2 levels for plant growth; unless the exhaust fans cycle infrequently, including when the burner is operating. CO2 burners have been around for some time and the newer models are quite safe to use when operated as specified by the manufacturer. Never use a NG burner

If not enriching the growing environment with elevated levels of CO2, growth will slow to a crawl if fresh air containing ambient CO2 levels are not kept moving across the foliage during the light cycle. This HEPA filter helps remove contaminants from the fresh air entering the growing area.

on a LP supply or vice versa. When installing, inspect all joints and lines for leaks by brushing with a soapy solution and looking for air bubbles. Always keep propane tanks outdoors, and not inside. Long hoses are available to supply burners from tanks outdoors. A high quality CO2 burner, such as the one featured in this article, is recommended. The first generation(s) of CO2 burners helped early growers get bigger yields. However, by today’s standards, they are fire-breathing dragons of yore. Modern CO2 burners use electronic ignition systems instead of standing pilot lights. This saves on gas used for combustion, and creates an additional level of safety. Do not use just any source of flame to try and create CO2 in your growing environment. The results could be deadly; you are literally playing with fire. Modern CO2 burners like the one pictured in this article have oxygen sensors, tip-over shut-offs and many other features that allow them to be used in closed environments with a relative level of safety. The flame produced by high quality specialty CO2 generators is pure blue, indicating that few impurities will be released with the CO2 during 68

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Wind, Earth, Water or Fire: Which CO2 Are You? combustion. Flickers of orange or yellow in the flame indicates the combustion process is inefficient, and may produce gases like carbon monoxide (CO), which can be very harmful or even deadly to you. If combustion is “dirty” or inefficient, ethylene gas may be produced, and just a few ppms of it can harm or kill your crop. For some growers, using water-cooled heat exchangers in conjunction with their CO2 burners helps to reduce cooling requirements in the growing area associated with the extra heat generated during combustion to produce CO2. They tend to run through quite a bit of water for cooling in a drain to

Modern and well constructed gas fired CO2 genrators are designed for use in grow rooms. Always use a high quality model, such as the one featured and follow the manufacturer’s installation recommendations to the letter to ensure safe and trouble-free operation while boosting growth rates and yields.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Combustion is an efficient means to elevate and control carbon dioxide levels in larger grow rooms. Notice how blue the flame is. This signifies a clean and efficient combustion, producing plant usable CO2 without other dangerous gases that appear as yellow or orange flames.

Wind, Earth, Water or Fire: Which CO2 Are You? Wind

Water

Fire

able to increase CO2 above ambient levels

CO2 output is controllable and sustainable relative cost to install

N low

Y moderate

Y moderate to high

relative cost to run

low

low to moderate

high

moderate

creates additional heat relative yield increases

N low

N moderate

N high

Y high

waste cooling system, or require large volumes of water and tanks that need to be cooled if you are running a â&#x20AC;&#x153;closedâ&#x20AC;? liquid cooling system. For the most efficient and trouble free CO2 enrichment set-up, a high quality CO2 burner and infrared monitor/ controller is recommended if you are gardening on any kind of scale. While fire is not the least expensive route to take, once set-up and installed, you will just need to refill the propane tank (kept outdoors) occasionally. Better yet, if you have natural gas available to you, buy a NG gas CO2 burner, and have a qualified

Earth

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

technician install a gas supply directly to the burner that has an on/off valve in the supply for safety. From there, all you will need to do is try and keep up with the accelerated growth rates of your crop! So, what kind of CO2 do you rely on to help determine your yield levels? If you are at the wind level, consider moving up to earth or water; you will notice a big difference in your rate of production. If you are a professional, or even a hobbyist looking to get bigger yields and reduce cropping times, fine-tune or upgrade your set-up to the water or fire level; once you have, you will never look back.

Remember that to get all the benefits associated with elevated CO2 levels, all of the parameters in your grow should be at optimal levels first. As you start to incorporate CO2 into your game, take the time and possibly even a little extra expense to do it right. This way, all you are left to do is to try and keep up with accelerated growth rates that can drive MY your crop to bigger yields. Learn how you can maintain higher and more precise levels of CO2 in your grow room by modifying simple air conditioners at www.maximumyield.com

BEGINNER'S

corner

Stop Hydroponics Odors

How to Keep Hydro Gardening Systems from Smelling Bad One common complaint about hydroponics is the smell that often results, but with a little care and knowledge, a well run hydroponics system doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need to smell bad. Tip #1: Keep the system as free of organic materials as possible. Nutrient solution problems are often the cause of bad smells in hydroponics systems. Bad odors can be both strong and persistent and are a result of bacteria metabolizing proteins, which releases amines and sulfur-containing organic molecules into solution. Microbial growth in the nutrient itself is a result of having organic materials in the system somewhere (fungi, for instance, needs organic matter to feed on). Because of this, it is important to avoid introducing unnecessary organic material into the nutrient solution or growing media. Organic matter may have come from large amounts of old rotting root systems or vegetation from a previous crop or use of organic growing media. Take steps to avoid these problems by using non-organic starting medium for starting plants to be added to the system and a non-organic growing medium in the system. Between crops replace or clean the growing medium to remove unwanted organic matter. Use a dark reservoir and keep it covered to keep light and foreign organic matter out. 74

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by Christopher J. Kline

Tip #2: Take steps to maintain a microbial equilibrium in the system. The microbial species which produce the bad smells, slime and other undesirable problems are not to be encouraged, but there are beneficial microbes that can be added and encouraged in the system. First, start with a clean, sterilized water source, add in the nutrients and then inoculate the nutrient solution with a mixture of beneficial microbes that can be purchased from hydroponics retailers and found with an online search for â&#x20AC;&#x153;beneficial microbes hydroponics.â&#x20AC;? This gives the beneficial microbes a head start and results in a healthy system where any pathogens should be suppressed before plant damage occurs. Tip #3: Use only nutrients and additives that are specifically designed for hydroponics. Avoid the use of organic fertilizers which are used and designed for soil based systems. Many of these rely on boosting the population growth of microbes in the soil, which in turn break down organic matter, releasing nutrients. Many of the organic compounds are not fully mineralized and putting these soil based organic fertilizers (such as fish emulsions) into a hydroponics system in large quantities can have rapid and unpleasant results.

Tip #4: Keep the nutrient solution well oxygenated. Start with a clean system and keep the nutrient well oxygenated. This helps swing the equilibrium in favor of the beneficial microbes and provides oxygenated solution to the plant roots. Air pumps are now very inexpensive and should be used with an air stone to add oxygen to the nutrient solution. Plant only healthy seedlings into the system in non-organic starting media and remove any sick or stressed plants as soon as they are noticed, making sure to get most of the roots. Tip #5: Flush the system and replace the nutrient solution often. It is possible to test nutrient solution often and maintain proper pH and nutrient levels, but it is beneficial and much easier to replace the solution every week or at least every two weeks. Set the system up so a water pipe can be easily opened to drain the system. Plan to drain the system when the reservoir is already low. Drain the solution into a watering can until the pump starts to draw air. Use this nutrient rich water to water soil based plants. Add a gallon or two of pH adjusted water to the system and run the system for five minutes to flush. Drain the system again and then fill with pH adjusted nutrient solution and beneficial microbes. Tip #6: Consider ozone generators and carbon filters. Ozone generators and carbon filters are no substitute for the general hydroponics practices discussed in the previous tips and they may very well be unnecessary for odor control if these tips are diligently applied. They may, however, have benefits beyond odor control that are worth considering. For example, some systems claim to purify the water by injecting ozone directly into the holding tank or the nutrient reservoir. In the water, excess ozone constantly breaks down into oxygen which super oxygenates the nutrient solution, promoting rapid healthy root development, plant growth and higher yields. Carbon Carbon Filters filters are probably the best way of removing odors from any area. Charcoal has long been recognized as one of the best vehicles for air filtering and different size filters are available for different sized growing rooms. Carbon filters are easy to install and operate. Ozone Generator By consistent application of the above tips a microbial equilibrium can be created in the hydroponics system that will not only have limited undesirable MY odors, but will consistently produce better harvests. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Plants and Energy Bodies by Evan Folds

The world is waking up to the idea of proper food production. Books are being written about it, movements are emerging, including the Locavore and Slow Food movements – and it is about time. We’re coming to the collective conclusion that the way we have been nourishing our bodies in the modern world doesn’t work; we are paying attention to what we eat as it affects our health and quality of life. We are finally accepting the very real idea that food is medicine, with the awareness that we have been progressively diluting its potency since the dawn of artificial agriculture.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

"You are what you eat." Ludwig Andreas Feuerbach This growing consciousness is a result of the development of a mature mindset and looking at things in a more textured way. The progressive gardening community compared to the broader gardening community provides a proper analogy. Our principles of efficient food production represent the direction the gardening community needs to be headed. The point of this article is to challenge you to think about your garden in a new way by introducing a worldview articulated during the life of Rudolph Steiner called Anthroposophy. Not only does it have the potential to change the way we garden, but it can transform the way we live. It was a German philosopher named Ludwig Andreas Feuerbach who is attributed the phrase, “You are what you eat.” It is a popular saying; no doubt you’ve heard it before. Maybe you have used it as a means to reinforce forethought into what we put into our bodies as “food.” In this regard, it is certainly a positive aphorism, but Rudolph Steiner took exception to this thoughtform and offered a fascinating alternative. As humans, we are very good at pretending we know the answers to things when we don’t. One must read one of Steiner’s lectures to understand the true power of what he brought forward, but suffice it to say, Steiner was a tuned in guy. He spoke in a manner that evoked unthreatening truth that possessed enlightening clarity. We have actually not proven the idea that what we physically eat ends up as part of our physical body, in the same way we have not witnessed the shape of a water molecule, or the reality of a black hole, or even the very laws that define our existence. Despite this fact, most hold this idea as literal truth, but there is always a point at which we do not know. Most call this faith. Rather than assume that plants, animals and humans are a sole result of the foods ingested by them, Steiner asks us to investigate and re-evaluate the essential task of nourishment by considering the life force involved. In other words, when you drink Nettle’s Tea as a health tonic, you are certainly delivering large amounts of beneficial elements to living cells, but more importantly, as Steiner instructed, the unique force structure of the herb being used affects the relationship of the layered energy bodies. For many this means absolutely nothing, but MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Plants and Energy Bodies

"We work with our energy bodies when taking medicinal herbs or homeopathic remedies, and when conducting acupuncture, meditation, yoga, chakra work, practicing biodynamic farming and many other forms of chiropractic and energetic medicine."

to a biodynamic farmer or attuned holistic practitioner, or anyone fortunate enough to know one, it is second nature. Unfortunately, it’s a subjective issue; you can only know it when you experience it. For instance, how do you describe the feeling of taking a shot of wheatgrass juice every day? It makes you feel fantastic, but that can only get you so far when trying to describe it to your friends. Words just don’t do it justice. Steiner was known to say, “…nutrition as it is today does not supply the strength necessary for manifesting the spirit in physical life. A bridge can no longer be built from thinking to will and action. Food plants no longer contain the forces people need for this.” Steiner was concerned with the invisible subtle forces involved in regulating life, not the physically measurable amino acids, carbohydrates or hormones that act as messengers and catalysts. There is much to learn and gain from this approach, especially for indoor gardeners who have separated their growing environment from all sources of natural energy. Another way through this esoteric door is by considering the idea of a beating heart. We are taught in school and by doctors that the heart is a pump, responsible for moving blood throughout the body and sustaining the living organism. This is reinforced as truth and conditioned upon us on so many different levels that it might come as a surprise to find out that blood is circulating through a growing fetus well before the heart is even formed. In the 1920’s Steiner gave lectures to medical doctors on the idea of the circulation of blood having its own biological momentum with the beating of the heart simply regulating the flow. The convenience of teaching and thinking of the heart as a pump results in its appearance in our textbooks and medical journals, but it focuses our attention away from the whole. In

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Plants and Energy Bodies the end, the reason we are only taught part of the story is because there is no materialistic explanation to the contrary, look into it for yourself: http://www.rsarchive.org/RelArtic/Marinelli/ So we can establish that modern science does not equip us with the tools or allow us to focus our attention on that which cannot be replicably measured. To some extent, this can be understood, but it is an opportunity missed and literally keeping us from where our ideals want to take us. In order to gain any clarity on these ideas we must investigate the realms of our higher energy bodies. Some of you may have just read that sentence again, but humor me. It may be different, but it is not hocus pocus or witchcraft. We work with our energy bodies when taking medicinal herbs or homeopathic remedies, and when conducting acupuncture, meditation, yoga, chakra work, practicing biodynamic farming and many other forms of chiropractic and energetic medicine. These methods have been around far longer than the 100 or so years weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been experimenting with Western materialistic science. Steiner used the term Anthroposophy, or â&#x20AC;&#x153;wisdom of the human being,â&#x20AC;? to represent his worldview. He considered himself a spiritual scientist, who holds to the principle that every material occurrence, everything that takes place in the

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

"Plant life is still to a high degree immersed in the general life of nature, including the outer earthly world."

physical sense world, is only the external aspect of spiritual processes. From an anthroposophical point of view, the physical body is simply the vehicle and only one part of the living whole. The human body is comprised of four inextricably linked energy bodies, animals three and plants two, organized in the following way: physical X etheric X astral X ego. True health, in Steinerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s view, is only achieved when the higher energy bodies are working in conjunction with the physical body and one another and illness occurs in the physical body based on the imbalances of this working system. In the same way that a view of history through the prism of the Mayan calendars can shed new light on the significance of seemingly unrelated events, so too can viewing life via the prism of an anthroposophic structure. All physical substance has a physical body comprised of similar chemical substances, but it is only when the higher energy bodies are involved that life can emerge. Humans are unique in possessing an ego, resulting in our position as the pinnacle of creation. Notice how the distinction of animals not having an ego jives with the idea that they do not exhibit self reflection. Even domesticated animals that may seem to exhibit human tendencies do not recognize themselves in the mirror. Animals and humans possess what is called an astral, or soul body that is the bearer of pleasure and pain, cravings, drives and passions. The subtle energy that permeates the astral body can be considered the opposite or complement of physical visible light, in the same manner as (+) magnetism and (-) magnetism. Plants are unique in only possessing a physical and etheric energy body. Steiner opens the Agriculture Course by speaking on how rhythms indicate the degree to which natural beings have emancipated from their relation to surrounding nature. He is basically describing to a group of farmers how to work with the MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Plants and Energy Bodies scale of life being fleshed out in this article in regards to plants. Steiner chose the plants and herbs that comprise the biodynamic preparations BD500-508 based on the unique force structure. If you have not read it, everyone interested in gardening deserves to, even if it is only for the perspective. This emancipation from nature is almost complete for human life and is expressed as free will. For the animal life it is less so, but plant life on the other hand, is still to a high degree immersed in the general life of nature, including the outer earthly world. This is why the moon effects plant growth, and also why all of the celestial bodies have their effect as well, especially when used in conjunction with the BD preps. Consider that this realm is not even on our collective radar. There is actually a calendar called the Stella Natura available from biodynamic practitioners that details proper planting and harvesting times based on these subtle energies. The etheric body has been explained as being responsible for fighting off decay. When a plant dies and the physical body is removed from its association with the etheric body it begins to decompose. Throughout life, the etheric body fights decay

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

by providing living substance a different setting, so to speak, than it would otherwise physically have by itself. This is why seeds can sprout in compost piles. Even though decomposition is being encouraged, at least for a short time, life can emerge. The etheric body is just as visible to energetically sensitive people as the physical body is to the eyes and can be attributed to the aura seen by people of clairvoyance or in Kirlian photography. Now project this worldview onto your indoor garden and ask yourself if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re doing everything possible to maximize yields? Have you ever even considered an energy body? Imagine the potentials if we train our focus on the broader texture of the life we are cultivating. The new frontier in indoor gardening involves working with subtle energiesâ&#x20AC;Śand weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got some work to do. MY You can find all of Evan Fold's articles in our author archive on www.maximumyield.com

GREEN THUMB

gardening

How LED Grow Lights Recycle Energy and your Money

by Charlene Rennick LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. This kind of bulb has been popular for decades to illuminate clock displays, stereo equipment, flashlights and outdoor-lit advertisements. Because they emit more light per watt than regular incandescent light bulbs, they have a potential to save hydro dollars and excess energy consumption. Recently, advancements in LED technology have produced more sizes and shapes of LED bulbs increasing their application base as a regular household lighting device. They leave less of a carbon footprint than an incandescent bulb and do not produce much heat when lit. The most widely-known benefit of LED bulbs is that they produce light for a longer period of time. LEDs have an average lifespan of 35,000 to 50,000 hours as opposed to 1,000 to 2,000 incandescent or 30,000 fluorescent hours. LED bulbs have several less obvious advantages. They can be used more efficiently as a color bulb than other types of lights because they do not require additional filters to change the hue. Because of their shape, they lend themselves more readily to being direction-focused; whereas, incandescent bulbs need additional accessories to train the light emissions. LED bulbs have a solid structure; they are not particularly delicate and are not as susceptible to electrical surges or shocks as incandescent, fluorescent and halogen bulbs. For lighting that requires frequent on/off phases, LED bulbs are more resistant to the wear and tear than fluorescent and incandescent bulbs. This makes LED bulbs a better bet for use with a timer. In addition, LEDs lose brightness over a long period of time. This gradual dimming has the advantage of providing a warning period before a replacement will be necessary; it avoids the risks 88

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

associated with an abrupt burn-out. With some applications, the sudden absence of light creates environmental damage or human safety hazards due to spontaneous darkness. LEDs light up quickly and are mercury-free. Overall, they perform better over time than fluorescent, incandescent and halogen bulbs. Known disadvantages of LED bulbs are that they are more expensive at the outset to purchase without considering their long-term savings advantage. They cannot be used in dimmer switches and can be subject to extremes in temperatures. Another drawback is that LED bulbs generate light from a different part of the spectrum. This causes objects to be perceived as an altered color from that which would be produced if the same object was viewed using natural sunlight or incandescent light. Sometimes, the electrical current source may need to be adjusted to accommodate the LED bulb. Presently, there is some concern that the blue light content of LEDs may conflict with safety regulations. This issue is called the blue-light hazard and it may have a negative effect on the eyes. In addition to their longer life span, energy saving benefit and reduced noise, LED lights eliminate the need for a ballast which is necessary to control the voltage. If both Metal Halide and HPS bulbs are in use, more than one type of ballast is needed; thus, substituting LED lights potentially eliminates more than one piece of equipment. The use of LED lights as a substitute for HID grow lights in MY indoor gardens looks promising.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - June 2009

by Lee McCall

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Gardening is a leisurely pursuit maintained on a global scale, giving people the ability to create and manipulate lifestyle practices. Aside from production concepts, gardening is also engineered for ornamental design and art. It provides glamour and appeal to the applied environment, giving the producer a sense of self-satisfaction and achievement. Lawn maintenance is a very common task homeowners tend to on a regular basis; enthusiasts yearn to catch the eyes of jealous awe-inspired neighbors and spectators, hoping to boost their green-thumb ego. Everyone has their own preference when deciding between sod and xeriscape; I favor the lush appearance of fertile, thick, well manicured sod or specialty grass. The vibrant sheen of jade that possesses a healthy lawn attracts the eye with invitation, as well as provides a lush background for designated garden plots yielding color spectrums of annuals, perennials and other choice crops. Pet owners benefit on

behalf of their petâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well-being, providing an immediate comfort zone many animals appreciate as opposed to untreated terrain. Depending on drive and desire, a normal

lawn is also capable of being transformed into a luxury custom golf green, one of many examples and styles available to your disposal. Aside from visual appeal, home cultivated countertop turf like wheat grass, is gaining increasing popularity for the potent vitamin qualities it possesses as a natural health supplement. Wheat grass is incredibly easy to grow with little maintenance, quick production rates and low cost. This excerpt is an intention of basic procedures keen to those who wish to enhance the vibrancy of their lawn, whether the intention is for nutrition or dĂŠcor. Patience is required when installing sod or seed, and prior treatment is vital to the existing landscape. Prerequisite factors will fluctuate according to regional demographics of the area, however, minute research is required to gain a strong intellect on your regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s topsoil characteristics. Prepare a healthy transplant for the sod or seed by clearing major debris,

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

The Perfect Sod (large rocks, roots, wood, animal waste, etc.) and loosening the desired topsoil preceding final placement. The quality of the plotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s topsoil will determine sought after amendments. Many areas adjacent coastlines, tropical provinces and other naturally fertile landscapes usually require lesser grades of management and preparation. Indoors, wheat grass cultivation takes up very little space, and grows exceptionally well with inexpensive lighting for urban and rural residents. In a decorative planter it occupies a countertop or kitchen without causing visual debate in its surroundings, whether modern, contemporary or vintage. Ten by 20 inch trays make excellent microclimate flats, simple yet capable of impressive small space yields. Outdoors after tilling the canvas, incorporate hearty organic ingredients like microbe-rich compost, earthworm castings, select manures, peat-moss, seaweed, humus, coconut-coir and even perlite if desired. Fortifying the exist-

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

ing topography outdoors will enrich the area for years to come, ensuring healthy growth and beneficial decomposition. Indoor techniques are applied in similar fashion outside, however, the environment barriers that differ one from another create an enormity of variances that could occur. Although different environments and factors exist, the basic growth elements are the same for both habitats with minute considerations. An analogous aspect that benefits select turfs, as well as indoor and hydroponic cultivation is aeration of the rhizosphere. It is important to keep the foundation aerated in both aspects of cultivation to control moisture and drainage properties. Once the plot has been turned, the sod or seed is next to install. Growing from seed requires less initial labor opposed to laying sod. To begin dust the seed stock atop the moist base layer of soil, once complete cover the seed with a thin layer of additional top soil to insulate

The Perfect Sod

"Similar to hydroponic and indoor gardening propagation, installing sod is much like transplanting rooted clones or seeds into a new habitat." and protect the embryos. Tarp and other turf coverings are an available option that provides additional protection to increase chances of healthy germination, similar to the practice of indoor seed or clone propagation using plastic domes. If this route is chosen, anchor the tarp in specific points that custom fit your area. Avoid over heating from intense sun exposure by ensuring adequate air circulation and moisture ratios are present. Water the plot thoroughly in a uniform manner using a hose-end applicator for a controlled saturation rate; but avoid creating a mud pit. The seeds need contact with air and moisture, but shelter from intense light sources to increase successful germination rates. For wheatgrass, utilize topsoil, tarp or an additional tray for cover and insulation. If done correctly, the wheatgrass will form a thick sprouted mat under the top tray; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very important not to remove the tray until after a robust barrier of germinated sprouts is evident underneath basically lifting the cover up. At this time an adequate light source such

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

as a T-5 fluorescent fixture is needed to finish production. As the sprouts emerge in abundance from the fertile landscape, nurture their needs with adequate daily watering to avoid drought, yet monitor the soil or media conditions to deter water logging and potential pythium development. Seeds are extremely sensitive to over-watering and drought so exercise extreme caution when conducting this practice. Sod awards a quicker time to a stable end result, but physically it is more strenuous during initial placement. Similar to hydroponic and indoor gardening propagation, installing sod is much like transplanting rooted clones or seeds into a new habitat. Aside from the extreme care that must be maintained in the root zone, sod will adhere nicely to the freshly amended foundation utilizing the same precise skill applied to indoor cultivation. An advantage sod holds over seed is the ability to assimilate specialty fertilizers upon installation with a lower risk of over-fertilization. Once the sod is in place, like germinating grass seed, the transplant surface needs to retain adequate moisture without water logging or drought. The pre-growth attributes of the sod make it ideal for accepting light nutrition regiments upon initial transplant,

The Perfect Sod "Performing like a metabolism buffer, most dry applications are active for up to a month once induced into the medium, enacting as stable growth regulators, ensuring consistent production rates and lowering chance of deficiencies." unlike seed which can have a delicate sensitivity to these applications. Wheat grass is capable of achieving successful seed to harvest growth without the use of nutritional supplementation and only water. This creates simplistic maintenance, however, once harvested new seeds must be replanted to ensure perpetual production. Once the sod is in place it

is optional to begin with an extremely dilute concentration of nutrient for the initial week or just plain water. Watering regiments following the initial transplant or germination phase is best applied one to three times a day depending on regional weather demographics. The importance of adequate moisture, air and drainage in relation to what the season

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permits will determine routine maintenance. The naturally occurring nutrition that exists in the freshly amended topsoil will enhance the adaptation process and provide relief elements to acclimate the sod into place. For those who desire to apply nutrient initially, I have a couple different approaches. Organic formulas are definitely preferred over synthetic blends to benefit the act of earth-friendly practices. Available in liquid or dry blends, both are effective and reasonably priced on a hobbyist scale. Liquids are easily applied via hose-end applicator at a lighter dilution ratio if the option exists. In my experience, the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s concentration will determine the recommended dilution ratio. Apply enough solution to the area to saturate the soil about one to two inches below the sod. Nutrient recipes that contain higher nitrogen concentrations are excellent candidates for supplementing lawn diets; however, it is important to provide adequate concentrations of phosphorous and potassium elements to ensure a healthy balance. Dry nutrient formulas are my choice for pristine lawn health, and the majority of soil cultivated projects using liquids fertilizer as intermittent supplements for metabolic boosts. Apply in liberal amounts when combining the forces of these two different entities. Consider that when more supplements and nutrition is added into the mix it is not wise to use full-strength of anything! Many dry organic blends are available in a plethora of different N-P-K ratios mainly marketed towards different types of crop production.Vegetables, flower crops, tree species and natural turf all contain minute variances in their desired nutritional diet. A benefit the dry blends possess is their time release operation. Performing like a metabolism buffer, most dry applications are active for up to a month once induced into the medium, enacting as stable growth regulators, ensuring consistent production rates and lowering chance of deficiencies. Hydroponic and soilless methods that do not contain easy application for dry nutrition pellets, powders or granules may incorpo-

rate liquid balanced macro-nutrient blends to avoid deprivation of certain nutrient compounds. Pay attention to active ingredients when combining to avoid lockout of major mobile and immobile elements. When executed correctly, combining the two properties of granular slow release formulas and instantaneous liquid inoculations, provide choice lawns and crops a buffet of nutrition that increases overall uptake, in turn surpassing average growth rates and yield. Assorted mycorrhizal and beneficial bacillus species will improve soil porosity, nutritional uptake, rhizosphere mass, vegetative vigor and overall seasonal health. Granular and liquid varieties are available to the consumer market, and should be utilized whatever your preference of application desires. I recommend filtered water free of chlorines and other detrimental impurities that would hinder beneficial microbial growth. Applications infrequent as once or twice a month will suffice for a healthy productive outdoor lawn ensuring lush, dense growth. Once the sod is stable, growth should be visibly evident through blade growth, and the roots should have adhered to the base foundation. Preserving the proper blade length of grass is also an important aspect of lawn care that correlates to overall health and vibrancy. Remove 25 to 75 per cent of the actual blade foliage one to two times a month, leaving the leftover grass shavings scattered amongst the lawn to naturally recycle itself. If the clippings are chosen for removal, they are compostable under attentive discretion and care. Grass clippings tend to have high concentrations of nitrogen and if not turned or amended regularly may also develop anaerobic bacterial growth from lack of oxygen. This synopsis of sod and wheatgrass cultivation is designed to encourage those who have the luxury of having a lawn at disposal or yearn for homegrown vitamins on their countertop. MY For more articles by Lee McCall visit our author archive on www.maximumyield.com

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

The nutrition of your plants Essential Points Part III by Luis Bartolo

"In biochemistry, a trace element is a chemical element that is needed in minute quantities for the proper growth, development and physiology of the organism."

B: Essential Trace Elements As the last in the series on plant nutrition essentials, we will explain the essential trace elements, beneficial elements, toxic effects and signs of faulty nutrition in plants. But first, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take a look at the definitions of trace elements. In analytical chemistry, a trace element is an element in a sample that has an average concentration of less than 100 parts per million (ppm) atoms, or less than 100 micrograms per gram. In biochemistry, a trace element is a chemical element that is needed in minute quantities for the proper growth, development and physiology of the organism. In biochemistry, a trace element is also referred to as a micronutrient. In geochemistry, a trace element is a chemical element whose concentration is less than 1000 ppm or 0.1 per cent of a rockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s composition. The term is used mainly in igneous petrology. We are primarily focused on the definition of biochemistry where trace elements can also be referred to as a micronutrient. Following you will find the most important ones.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Iron. Iron is closely concerned with chlorophyll formation but is not a constituent of it. Its role appears in this connection to be that of a catalyst. As a result of this function of iron, chlorosis is invariably an outstanding symptom when the element is deficient. Iron may also act as a catalyst, in the role of an oxygen carrier, in respiration. A point of great importance in connection with iron is its relative immobility in plant tissues. Its mobility seems to be affected by several factors, such as the presence of manganese, potassium deficiency and high light intensity. There is evidence that the amount of chlorophyll is related to â&#x20AC;&#x153;activeâ&#x20AC;? (i.e., readily soluble) iron in plants. It will thus be seen that so-called iron deficiency in the plant may in fact usually mean iron immobility. Lack of mobility may also account for the fact that iron deficiency is first shown in the younger tissues. Manganese. The functions of manganese are regarded as being closely associated with those of iron and as being concerned with chlorophyll formation. Hence, when manganese is deficient, chlorosis is a common symptom. Manganese may decrease the solubility of iron by oxidation and hence, an abundance of manganese within the plant may lead to iron deficiency and chlorosis. Manganese is regarded as having the functions of a catalyst; its activities being specially concerned with oxidation and reduction reactions within the plant tissues. Boron. The exact role of boron is not known, but again the evidence as for the other trace elements suggests that its functions are those of a catalyst or reaction regulator. Particular effects attributed to boron are as follows: It can delay the onset of calcium deficiency effects but cannot replace calcium; it tends to keep calcium soluble; it may act as a regulator of potassium/calcium ratios, and of the absorption of nitrogen; it may be concerned with the oxidation-reduction equilibrium in cells. Such functions as the above accord follow from a deficiency of the element, when growth processes show sudden collapse and drastic derangements of metabolism occur. "Sodium seems to affect the water relations of plants and often enables sugar beet and other crops to withstand drought conditions which would otherwise produce severe adverse effects."

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

The Nutrition of your Plants: Essential Points Part III Zinc and Copper. Although specific functions have not been determined for these elements, here again, the evidence points to their roles as catalysts and regulators. Deficiencies of both are associated with chlorosis and a serious general collapse of vital growth processes. Since catalysts are not used up in the chemical reactions which they promote, we can understand how it comes about that quite small or even minute quantities of the trace elements: iron, manganese, boron, zinc and copper, may nevertheless be essential to the plantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s health and growth. C. Beneficial Elements (Sometimes) Sodium. As sodium is not strictly an essential element, it cannot be expected to have a specific role in the metabolic activities of plants. Where sodium produces significant effects it is often regarded as a conserver of potassium and as being able partly to replace that element in its role. In no instance, however, has it been shown that sodium can wholly replace potassium where the latter is acutely deficient. In such circumstances, sodium is ineffective as a substitute for potassium, even for sodium-loving plants such as sugar beet, mangold and barley. Sodium seems to affect the water relations of plants and often enables sugar beet

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"Sodium is often regarded as a conserver of potassium and as being able partly to replace that element in its role." and other crops to withstand drought conditions which would otherwise produce severe adverse effects. Chlorine. The evidence of the role of chlorine in plants is somewhat contradictory, and no general statement can be made. In tobacco it has been shown to increase the water content of the tissues and to affect carbohydrate metabolism, leading to an accumulation of starch in the leaves. The element is present in plants as chloride, and is wholly soluble. Toxic Effects of Mineral Elements Toxic effects in plants may be produced both by essential nutrient elements and non-essential elements. In the first class, the major nutrients are much less toxic than the trace elements. Indeed, for the major nutrients, there exists a fair safety margin for excess or â&#x20AC;&#x153;luxuryâ&#x20AC;? consumption, but for the trace elements the margin is very narrow. Similar conditions exist in relation to non-essential elements. Thus, some plants will tolerate fairly large amounts of elements such as sodium or chlorine, but are injured by relatively small amounts of elements like arsenic or chromium.

The Nutrition of your Plants: Essential Points Part III

Two types of injury may occur: 1. An excess of one element may lead to a deficiency of another which ultimately results in a deranged metabolism, e.g., excess nitrogen or excess phosphorus may result in insufficient potassium and excess potassium may lead to deficiency of magnesium or calcium. This type of injury applies particularly to essential nutrients. 2. The presence of an element may directly injure the protoplasm and bring about the speedy death of the plant.

Signs of Faulty Nutrition in Plants When plants are grown in unsuitable environments, including conditions of faulty mineral nutrition, they react to the particular defects in more or less specific ways. Thus, if light is insufficient, the green coloring matter of the leaf will be lacking and the leaves may be almost white (chlorotic), and the plant may be very spindly and â&#x20AC;&#x153;drawnâ&#x20AC;? in appearance. If the temperature is too high, the growth may be rank and soft; if water is insufficient, growth may be restricted, the tissues woody and the green of the leaves showing a bluish tint. Again, deficiencies and excesses of the individual elements produce characteristic effects on various organs of plants: foliage characters including color, density, size and shape of leaves; stem characters, such as thickness, color and length of internodes; root characters such as color, amount of fiber, abnormal thickening; blossom characters, including amount and time of opening of the flowers; fruit characters, such as size, color, hardness and flavor. The ability to recognize these particular effects forms the basis of the visual method of diagnosing plant deficiencies. Many of them can be readily learned and applied by practical farmers. Indeed, for many years progressive fruit growers in this country have used the leaf symptoms of deficiencies of nitrogen and potassium, and more lately of magnesium, as the main guide to manuring their fruit trees and bushes with these elements.

MY For additional arcticles by Luis Bartolo visit www.maximumyield.com

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TIPS &

tricks

What is pH? by Grodan

The unit of measure of nutrient solution acidity or alkalinity is termed pH. It is a description of the concentration of the H+ ions in the feed solution, substrate or drain water. The mathematical description is: pH = -log10[H+] = log10 1/[H+]

This equation tells us that as the concentration of H+ ions in a solution increases, the solution becomes more acidic. Conversely, as the H+ concentration decreases, the more basic the solution becomes. To control the pH and still retain a certain degree of buffering, the bicarbonate (HCO3) content of the raw water (bore-hole, well or mains) must be determined and adjusted to contain 40 to 60 ppm using one or a combination of acids. The naturally occurring bicarbonate ions in the water act as insurance against wide fluctuations in the pH of the solution. However, some sources of water, particularly rainwater, contain very little, if any bicarbonate (<6.1 ppm). Feed solutions composed of mainly rainwater will cause the slab solution to have an unstable pH. The addition of potassium bicarbonate to the stock tank will provide some buffering capacity under these situations. The bicarbonate content of the water and the pH of the water are closely co-related. However, the pH is not a measure of the bicarbonate content in the water and the bicarbonate content is not a measure of the pH of the water. As the bicarbonate content increases, the pH increases. This is due to the equation:

Why is it important to regulate pH of the nutrient solution? The pH of the nutrient solution will determine the availability of certain elements. Generally iron (Fe) manganese (Mn) and zinc (Zn) become less available as the pH is raised from 6.5 to 7.5. At a high pH, phosphorus will form insoluble phosphate salts which will precipitate out into the solution. Thus phosphorus will become unavailable to the plant until the pH is reduced to within normal limits. A balanced uptake of each of the nutrients by the plant is only possible if the root zone pH is within the range 5.5 to 6.0. The primary control of pH in the root zone is through the input (drip) solution. It should be noted that the crop itself has the ability to change the solution pH around its roots quite considerably, especially during early season vegetative growth. MY

Basic pH Concepts

Below you will find an illustration of the basic pH concepts. Baking Soda

HCO3 + H+ H2O + CO2

The pH of the water will rise through the addition of bicarbonate ions due to its reaction with free hydrogen (H+). This will result in the creation of water (H2O) and carbon dioxide (CO2). More importantly however, hydrogen ions, which are what is measured by the pH meter, are removed from the solution. As a result, the pH meter detects fewer hydrogen ions and produces a reading indicating a higher pH. 104

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Lemon Juice

7 5 6 4 3 1 2 ACIDIC

BASIC

12 11 0 1 8 9

pH rang for optimal nutrient uptake

by Dr. Carole Ann Rollins and Dr. Elaine Ingham

Differences between

Organic and Inorganic Plant Growing Systems There are some significant differences between an organic or biological system and the inorganic approach. Although the goal in both systems is the same - to grow healthy plants in the most cost effective way, the philosophical underpinnings of the two systems are very different. First, the biological system requires adequate microbial food in the soil, with replenishment by plant exudates in their myriad forms. Food comes in the form of nutrients such as sugar (bacterial food), proteins (bacterial and fungi food), carbohydrates (bacterial and fungi food) and more recalcitrant materials like lignin and cellulose for fungi. All of these foods are different forms of carbon and must be processed by organisms. Once these nutrients are processed, then microorganisms can use them.

Organic Renovation of an Anaerobic Landscape: Compaction, poor drainage and damage to the soil from inorganic fertilizers and pesticides were problems for the tree (two top right pictures) in a classic example why trees die in extreme anaerobic conditions. There are no fine roots in the root system, and therefore, no nutrient uptake is occurring. The high silt and clay content of the soils in addition to over watering, prevented oxygen movement and created a disease-prone environment. To correct this problem condition (lower two pictures), balanced-biology topsoil, compost with the right balance of bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes, structural elements and compost tea were mixed into existing soils. The area, included many native species, is now thriving within a year after construction. (Photos courtesy of the Hendrikus Group).

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Plum Tree with Biology Added: Plum tree before and after treatments of compost tea, worm castings, humic acid and sea kelp. The owners in the San Francisco Bay were overjoyed when the insevt pests, fungal leaf diseases, scale and aphids vacated their tree after application of the organisms that maintain a healthy condition. Seasonal Celebrations Landscape service in Pacifica, treated this tree with organic/biological products and created a healthy environment so it could grow and flourish. (Photo courtesy of Seasonal Celebrations Landscaping).

Micro-organisms use nutrients to build soil structure; to make sure the soil stays aerobic (because of the structure built to let oxygen and water move freely in the soil); and to allow nutrients to cycle properly (bacteria, fungi, protozoa, beneficial nematodes and microarthropods must be present in proper ratios to release nutrients in the right form, in the right places and at the right times for plant health). Inorganic systems attempt to provide most, or all, of the nutrients in an inorganic form, in a large pulse all at once. The hope is that the plant can meter out what it needs through the entire growing season. But different environmental conditions are going to do different things to the plantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs for various nutrients at various

times. Sometimes the applications do not fit the conditions and leaching or volatilization of nutrients into the water and air become serious problems for human health. Inorganic systems basically take the point of view that nature does not know how to feed plants very well, and needs human help. It becomes necessary to artificially manage what biological natural systems have been performing successfully for billions of years. In an organic system, plants are in control of the growth of the organisms in its root zone. Plants work with the biology to deliver the right nutrients to the plant in the right forms at the appropriate times. Beneficial organisms in soil or soilless media are very important for nutrient retention and prevention of leaching.

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Differences Between Organic and Inorganic Plant Growing Systems

Organic vs. Inorganic Trials: In scientifically replicated trial compost tea, worn castings, compost, sea kelp and humic acid were added to the three plants on the left side of this photo. A leading inorganic fertilizer was used on the three plants on the right side of this photo. The plants on the left side show more growth than the plants without the biology added. (Photo courtesy of Nature Technologies International, LLC.)

Bacteria and fungi retain the greatest amount of nutrients in their biomass and on their surfaces as compared to any other set of organisms on the planet. The largest organisms on the planet are single individuals of fungi, which dwarf the largest mammals by four to five fold or more. A serious amount of nutrient and carbon is retained in bacterial and fungal biomass in soil. If these organisms are killed by the use of toxic pesticides or high levels

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Pathogen Photos: Non-beneficial microbes, such as disease-causing pathogens, shown in the photo as they occur in a plant root. With training, these "bad guys" are easy to distinguish. These organisms come to life in low oxygen conditions where the aerobic competitors of disease cannot flourish. By killing a large percentage of ALL the organisms in soil, toxic chemicals used in inorganic growing systems select for diseasecausing organisms. (Photo courtesy of Soil Foodweb Inc.)

of inorganic fertilizers, they are unable to retain nutrients, build structure in soil or soilless media or perform disease suppression functions. There is significant documentation in the scientific literature reporting that the correct set of organisms in soil can

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

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Differences Between Organic and Inorganic Plant Growing Systems

Useful indicators that things aren't right: The above photos are of rotifers. These organisms only occur in high numbers in stagnant, low-oxygen environments. They can easily be displaced by returning oxygen AND aerobic organisms to the system. (Photo courtesy of Nature Technologies International, LLC.)

be highly disease suppressive. The challenge lies in ensuring that the beneficials are selected and maintained in all types of growing systems. The inorganic chemical approach has become popular because it is perceived as easy and more convenient. There is nothing convenient about having to apply toxic materials more than 10 times a year. When in fact, if the correct sets of beneficial organisms were present, those organisms and the plant working together will do the work of feeding the plant, suppressing weeds and preventing disease organisms from growing. Once things are balanced, a single application of compost, or liquid

Cakes and Cookies in Organic Systems: Plants feed microbes exudates of sugar, protein and carbohydrates - “Cakes and Cookies”. Roots release these “Cakes and Cookies” to feed microbes, to protect the root system from diseases and pests, to enhance nutrient cycling, and to build structure to allow roots to grow through soil with good air passageways to help them. (Diagram courtesy of Soil Foodweb, Inc.)

compost (compost tea), once a year, will suffice. But this will only be the case if the beneficial organisms in the soil remain properly balanced for the desired environment for the specific plant being grown. Any disturbance of the soil will cause damage to the life in the soil. Disturbances include, but are not limited to, tillage, applications of high concentrations of salts, driving across the soil when it is wet, flooding, severe drought, unusual freeze events and so forth. Fixing that damage requires assessing exactly what was damaged (if anything). Once damage is assessed then that damage must be repaired. Repairs can occur by adding back the same kind of beneficial organisms that were killed, or just by adding food to help the surviving beneficials recover and re-build their numbers. MY For additional articles by Dr. Carole Rollins visit www.maximumyield.com.

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sun and soil: Natural Greenhouse growing Moisture in the soil

by Roland Evans of Organic Bountea

"As human activity uses up increasing portions of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s limited resources of fresh clean water, we gardeners and growers have to become even more careful and conserving."

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Water is a scarce and precious commodity here in the high desert of Colorado. The state water laws are labyrinthine, the cause of bitter wrangling and pitched battles over the last century. Luckily I have my own well, plunging 600 feet deep through the granite, tapping an underground stream fed from snow melt. In March and April this year we enjoyed over five feet of snow. So I know there is plenty of water down there. Even so, I am miserly with every drop of this life-giving essence. As human activity uses up increasing portions of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s limited resources of fresh clean water, we gardeners and growers have to become ever more careful and conserving. We need to become wise in the ways of water.

Max Yield Ad2-March 08:Layout 1

In the March and April issues of Maximum Yield, Evan Folds explored the Dynamic Nature of Water. He talked about the incredible capacity of water to bring life and carry energy and nutrients. Plants breathe in moisture from soil and air. A portion is exhaled through leaves in transpiration. Plants are both conduits and consumers of water; it creates their bodies, transports minerals and makes up over 95 per cent of their structure. Water is obviously the life-blood of the vegetable world – but it is much more. Water and the Soil Whenever we irrigate our gardens, we are not simply feeding moisture to plants. Plants are rooted in a living system that includes minerals, humus, soil life, air and water. As water penetrates the soil, it displaces the carbon dioxide that has accumulated from the breakdown of organic matter. Draining water draws in oxygen, nourishing the aerobic microbial life. Watering is as much about soil oxygen replenishment as it is about moisture. The overall aim is to maintain a balance of about 25 per cent water and 25 per cent air in the soil. Dampened soil grows dark as sponge, like humus soaks in moisture, storing it for later use and activating the microbial life in its pores. Bacterial and fungal spores germinate, reproduce and migrate. Protozoa colonize the watery spaces between mineral particles. Worms move towards the surface and plump up as they ingest moist soil. Water brings the soil to life. I remember my initial surprise when my brother John told me years ago: “Always water every inch of your soil, particularly if it is bare and unplanted.” He explained that dehydrated soil stresses and kills billions of living organisms. It is our job to keep them all moist and happy - then they will work for us building stronger

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Ask for Bountea at your hydro store MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

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Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing - Moisture in the soil healthier plants. The rule of thumb in irrigation is, soil first plants later. Dehydrated plants signal their need for water by drooping. Soil tells us it needs to drink when the surface cracks or half inch below the surface is dry and dusty. Listen to the soil as well as the plants. Water Quality When you irrigate your garden, you need to know the quality of your water. Of course, rain is best. We all have seen the magic a warm drizzle can work on a dried up landscape; plants seem to perk up and vibrate with liveliness. Oddly enough, scientists cannot seem to agree on the cause. The consensus is that rainwater dissolves the gases of the air as it descends: oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen. It also may pick up a particular ionic charge. As spherical raindrops hit the ground, energy and nutrients (possibly nitrates) are released giving soil and plant life an immediate boost. Stored rainwater is also beneficial but loses some of its qualities over time. While we have little rain in Colorado, I am lucky to have my well. My water is free of pollution and has no antibacterial additives. Those dependent on municipal water supplies may not be so fortunate. Consumer advocates suggest there are over 1000 possible contaminants in ordinary drinking water. Do some research and find out what your water contains. Most city supplies have added chlorine that kills bacteria. While chlorine easily dissipates into the air, the more recent additive, chloramine, is more problematic for gardeners. Soil life and young plants are vulnerable to this very stable antibacterial. If you know your water has chloramine, you may want to use an activated charcoal filter or treat your water with hydrogen peroxide or possibly vitamin C before watering. Again, research the best methods of purifying your water supply. As an aside, microwaved water is not good for plants. Pure water is particularly important when making compost tea. Antibacterials in your water can decimate the microbial life in your tea starter â&#x20AC;&#x201C; whether worm castings, compost or specialized humus. If your water has chlorine, let it stand for 24 hours or bubble air through it for two hours. Treat chloramine water in a way that leaves the water close to a neutral pH of 7.0 Usually, once the compost tea is brewed and the microbial life is strong, diluting the tea as you apply it does not overly harm the microbes. Irrigation Systems All gardeners have their own preferred irrigation methods. Simple hand watering is often the most efficient but it is time consuming. Automatic sprinkler systems are common and probably the most wasteful. However, innovative systems that use an intermittent pulsing system create a powerful stream that uses half the water. This has far better results for the soil as it allows time for water and air to penetrate. 114

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Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing - Moisture in the soil Rubber soaker hoses made of recycled tires are relatively cheap and available, but can clog in hard water areas and last only a few years. They are a good standby for row vegetable gardens. More sophisticated high-pressure drip irrigation systems are efficient and extremely flexible, particularly when watering containers, individual trees, shrubs and perennials. The parts tend to be expensive and complicated. There are dozens of different fittings available and it is often difficult to know which ones to use. My own preference, after many trials, is a drip irrigation system called T-tape. While not readily available in stores, it is extremely efficient and is used by a majority of horticulturalists. The T-Tape system uses low-pressure water and is suitable for flat row or raised-bed gardens. When set up with a filter, the emitters seldom clog and the tape lasts for years. Moisture Conservation In my drive to use water efficiently, I installed a gray water system that supplies all of my greenhouses. A large tank is replenished by water diverted from baths, showers and the washing machine. From there, it is filtered and fed at low pressure to the T-tape. In a gray-water system it is essential to use organic soaps and stock your soil with microbes (using compost tea) that can break down residues into plant-available nutrients. Then you

Gray water system and tank

do not get any smells and the soil remains sweet and fertile. Never use water from toilets or the kitchen sink - that is unusable black water. What little rain we get is also collected from a roof and sent to the holding tank. A 1,000 square foot roof can capture as much as 650 gallons of water during a one inch hard rain. If you live in an area with any rain, store and use as much as you can. Some states such as Colorado have arcane water regulations, so check them out first. Once the water is in the soil, you want to keep it there. Always minimize the impact of direct sunlight and heat on bare soil. Close planting, shading and mulching substantially reduces evaporation, keeps roots cooler and protects soil microbes from deadly ultraviolet rays. In the heat of summer, shade cloth can be a blessing for cool weather crops. Use floating row covers for delicate seeds and for emergency shading. Mulching is the most effective way of trapping soil moisture. Organic mulches – compost, leaves, grass clippings, straw, hay, alfalfa, etc. – not only keep soil moist but also promote soil life. Other mulches – plastic, treated paper, bark, rock – are often more convenient but may harm the soil over the long term. For added benefit, lay drip irrigation beneath the mulch so that the moisture seeps downward and none is lost to evaporation. Water is a taken-for-granted miracle - the sustainer of life. We need to be grateful for and considerate of this amazing yet limited resource. With a few simple changes to the way we think about and use water, we can make sure our plants and soil MY have all the life-giving moisture they need. Resources Janet Macunovich, "Learn to Water Well," http://finegardening. com/how-to/articles/conserve-water-by-watering-well.aspx To access all of Roland Evan's Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing columns, visit www.maximumyield.com

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by Donald Lester

Shopping for Humic Acids In the past, humic acids have been referred to as â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Black Gold of Agriculture.â&#x20AC;? Due to several watered down and inferior grades of the product available on the market today, humic acids are getting a bad name. These inferior grade products give reduced performance, and as a result, reduced grower confidence. This is compounded by the fact that there are several analytical methods available for measuring the content and strength of humic acids. For example, California recently decided upon a particular method of analysis. When they tested products in the marketplace using this method they found that over half did not rate the strength claimed. Now 118

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manufacturers have a six month grace period to change their labels or adjust their products and ingredients to pass the new testing procedure. Regulatory agencies in several states are working to agree on one standardized analytical method used to ensure consistency of product in the marketplace. Once this is accomplished it will be easier to compare apples to apples when it comes to humic acid products. However, strength is not the only consideration when it comes to buying a quality humic acid. In this article I will point out other important characteristics to look for when shopping for humic acid products.

Humic acids are a source of concentrated organic matter derived from various sources. Plant materials go through several stages of decay: fresh plant material, green manure, compost, peat, brown coal, leonardite, and coal. These materials accumulate over time, and with heat and pressure they eventually form bands or layers in the soil each with a different composition of humic acids. Average Content of Humic and Fulvic Acids Found in Various Source Materials SOURCE

% Humic Acids

% Fulvic Acids

Leonardite

Black Peat Brown Coal

10 10

40 30

Dung

Compost

Soil Sludge

1 1

5 5

Coal

Humic acid is an umbrella term for humic substances. There are two main categories of humic acids or humic substances: humic acid and fulvic acid. Each group is a mixture of large molecules, much like gasoline is a mixture of varying sized molecules. Therefore, there is no one recognized chemical structure for humic acid or fulvic acid. The main distinction between humic acids and fulvic acids is their pH and solubility in water. There are theoretical models of the average sized molecule in each group which gives us an idea of the size and complexity of the compounds. "Humic acid extracted from manure or peat is usually not as effective in absorbing micronutrients as humic acid originating from leonardite." Structurally, humic acids are large molecules containing an abundance of oxygen and carboxyl groups. These oxygenated areas on the molecule attract and bind with trace minerals in the soil that would otherwise be unavailable to the plant. Some refer to this binding of material as a complex (1:1 ratio) and others refer to it as a chelation (two humic acid: one mineral ratio). The large humic acid molecule binds with many mineral ions in the soil to act as a bus to deliver these minerals to the

CH2OH

COOH

HOOC

HOOC COOH OH

CH2 CH CH3 CH C CH2 COOH O CHOH CH2 COOH CH2 C

Model structure of fulvic acid by Buffle

O MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

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Shopping for Humic Acids COOH

HO = O

COOH

R CH

O OH

O "Many research studies show that humic substances stimulate the growth of plant tissues and increase the total quantity of nutrients absorbed."

plant root in a useable form. There are different amounts of oxygenation in each humic acid source. Leonardite has the most heavily oxygenated molecules yielding more nutrient binding sites. Humic acid extracted from manure or peat is usually not as effective in absorbing micronutrients as humic acid originating from leonardite. Humic acids have several properties that are beneficial to plants because they are biostimulants; they chelate or complex many essential minerals necessary for plant growth; they increase the seed germination rate; and they act as a food source for beneficial soil micro-organisms.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

(sugar)

HC = O O

H O

CH CH2 CH N

Model structure of humic acid (Stevenson 1982)

120

(HC-OH)4

COOH

O O

NH O R CH C = O (peptide) NH

When it comes to claims, growers often donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know which to believe. There appears to be confusion and doubt about the biostimulant effects of humic acids.

COOH

OH "Using sodium hydroxide results in an average of 7.5 per cent sodium salt in the final product which can be toxic to plants and can lead to salt build up in the soil."

The term biostimulant is ill defined and often thought of as merely a marketing term. However, humic acid substances do act as biostimulants (substances that stimulate growth) in hydroponics and sand culture, and especially in soils with low organic matter content. Many research studies show that humic substances stimulate the growth of plant tissues and increase the total quantity of nutrients absorbed. There is a large body of experimental evidence for enhanced growth in several crops and in different plant parts (i.e. roots, shoots, seeds), but primarily in shoot growth. One of the more famous humic acid studies is a California processor tomato trial conducted by Brownell et al. published in 1987 that demonstrated an average yield increase of 10.5 per cent. The same author conducted cotton trials in the same year and had a yield increase of 11.2 per cent. Grape trials in large unreplicated tests had increased yields ranging from three per cent to 70 per cent with an overall average of 25 per cent (Magdoff and Weil 2004). In other tests, wheat yields were reported to increase in ranges of 7.3 per cent to 18 per cent (Xudan 1986). A very good summary and overview of humic acid research is covered in the book Soil Organic Matter in Sustainable Agriculture by F. Magdoff and R. Weil published in 2004. Humic acids also build soil structure. Fulvic acids are physically smaller than

Shopping for Humic Acids High Quality Humic Acid

Low Quality Humic Acid

derived from leonardite

derived from coal, brown coal, compost, manure or peat

potassium hydroxide

aluminum hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, other alkalines

no heavy metals

heavy metals - lead, arsenic, mercury

organic certification

not organically certified

low usage rates indicate strength

high usage rates indicate weakness

fairly priced

you get what you pay for

humic acids. Being smaller in size the fulvic acids tend to break up heavy clay soils by absorbing the materials that bind soil particles together. The larger humic acids tend to bind soil particles together like glue so they are better at building and creating soil structure in sandy soils. Of all the raw materials mentioned, leonardite is the best source of humic acids. Leonardite is a mineral that forms on top of coal beds. It is not to be confused with the minerals leonhardite or leonhardtite (Jackson, Mehl, and Neuendorf 2005). In its natural mineral form leonardite is insoluble and unavailable to plants. The humic acids have to be released from leonardite using a solvent. The refining process of leonardite involves reacting the mineral with sodium hydroxide, aluminum hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or other alkaline materials. Using sodium hydroxide results in an average of 7.5 per cent sodium salt in the final product which can be toxic to plants and can lead to salt build up in the soil. Aluminum hydroxide releases aluminum into the soil which, under certain pH conditions, ties up or competes with other nutrients to make them unavailable for plants to use. Look for humic acids that have been manufactured using potassium hydroxide as a solvent, because it results in potassium remaining in the final product; potassium is a desirable essential plant food. Potassium is the K in the N-P-K number of fertilizer labels. Finally, look for humic acid products that have organic certification. Organic certification ensures that the humic acid you are buying is not loaded with heavy metals, pathogenic organisms, animal byproducts, sewage materials or other fillers and impurities. Features you should look for in a high quality humic acid product can be found in the table above. MY An easily downloadable humic acid reference is available at www.maximumyield.com

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by Bob Taylor: Chief Chemist for Flairform

Dosing Procedures for Nutrients and Additives

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Nutrient performance is far more complex than simply using a quality brand. Although growers typically blame the nutrient for poor plant performance, the failure to follow basic dosing procedures is the cause of many problems.

Step 1. Volume of nutrient solution: As a guide, allocate at least 2.5 gallons of nutrient solution per large plant (e.g. tomato), or around a Â˝ gallon for smaller plants (e.g. lettuce). This is especially important for re-circulating systems because larger nutrient volumes will undergo smaller changes in concentration (EC) and pH. In hot weather, insufficient nutrient volume could result in EC soaring to toxic levels, which could seriously damage your plants. Larger nutrient volumes will also reduce how frequently top-up water is needed.

Step 2. Dosage rates: The dose rate depends upon your growing medium (soil, expanded clay, etc) and the phase of growth seedling, vegetative or flowering. Refer to the manufacturer's dosage chart.

Step 3. Add the majority of water before adding nutrients and additives: Never mix nutrients and additives together in small amounts of water. With two and three-part nutrients, the â&#x20AC;&#x153;partsâ&#x20AC;? are kept separate for good reason. When these parts are mixed together in concentrated form (or in too little water), a white precipitate will form - as is often seen in nutrient reservoirs (Figure 3.6b and 3.1).

Step 4. Thoroughly stir the nutrient: Always stir immediately after adding each nutrient and additive (or even top-up water). This eliminates regions where less soluble nutrient species are concentrated. It also removes regions of extreme pH (either high or low), thereby preventing the destabilization of nutrients that are unstable outside of the pH window of 5.0 to 6.5.

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Figure 3.1 A white precipitate forms when the separate 'parts' of a two or three part are combined in too little water.

Dosing Procedures for Nutrients and Additives remove both water and nutrients from the nutrient solution. This may cause the nutrient strength to either increase or decrease – depending on which is being consumed at the faster rate. Typically the nutrient concentration tends to increase, especially in hot weather because water loss can be excessive due to both plant uptake and evaporation. Therefore, ensure the water level is kept relatively constant. When this is done, the concentration or conductivity (EC) will be relatively predictable. (Concentration will slowly decrease as the plants consume nutrients). Check the EC about every second or third day and if necessary add sufficient nutrient to stay within the target range. NOTE: High salinity (salty) make-up water may cause EC to increase.

Step 5. pH control: Do not leave pH unchecked for a long period of time. Quickly add all nutrients and additives then, after thorough mixing, immediately check pH and adjust if necessary. Allowing pH to rise above 6.5 is a common cause of white precipitate in nutrient reservoirs.

Step 6. Maintaining nutrient concentration: (Does not apply to ‘run-to-waste’ systems). As plants grow they simultaneously

Figure 3.6 This is what can happen when an undiluted, high pH additive is added to the working nutrient solution (see 3.6a). Unless pH is quickly corrected to below 6.0 - 6.5 the precipitate will remain (see 3.6b). A similar result can also be expected when other dosing techniques are not followed.

Step 7. Further notes: + Beware of high pH additives: The best dosing technique to adopt with additives that increase pH significantly (silica, PK additives) is to add them to the water and adjust the pH down to 6.0 prior to adding the nutrient. The less preferred but simplest alternative is to pre-dilute the additive in a separate volume of raw water. Then once this solution is added to the nutrient solution, quickly lower the pH to below 6.5. Note: A white cloudy precipitate (calcium sulphate) may form where the pre-diluted additive initially merges with the nutrient solution. However, because the initial particle size of the precipitate is small, it will usually re-dissolve if the pH is immediately re-adjusted (Figure 3.6a). + Two and three part nutrients: Avoid “roughly measuring” out the nutrient dose - always add the correct amount of each part. In the case of a two part, ‘under’ dosing part ‘B’ for example, could cause a deficiency in over half the nutrients required (i.e. P, K, S and all of the trace elements MY except iron). For an archive of Bob Taylor's articles visit www.maximumyield.com

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by Noucetta Kehdi

Wasabi Japonica I came across wasabi japonica completely by chance. Wasabi is this green “mustard,” which is generally served in Japanese restaurants with sashimi and sushi. My husband William and I love sushi, and I am a real fanatic of gari (pickled ginger) and wasabi. Any time I travel, I always try at least one sushi bar. The best sushi bars I have found are on Vancouver Island, British Columbia in Canada and in San Francisco, California in the United States. Recently I had the opportunity to taste fresh, exquisite sushi from Tokyo. That is when I learned that the wasabi we were enjoying was just a mix of horseradish, mustard and food coloring! “What about the real thing?” I wondered. That’s when I decided to begin my research on the amazing plant, wasabi japonica. Wasabi is a very delicate plant, which traditionally grows wild in the mountains of Japan. It has been used since ancient times for its medicinal properties, especially its anti-bacterial action. It is also used as one of the main spices in the Japanese cuisine. Today it is still cultivated, mainly in the prefectures of Nagano, Iwate, Shimane and of course, in the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka prefecture. Due to an increasing demand worldwide, it is now also cultivated in Australia, New Zealand and on the Pacific Coast of the USA and Canada.

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Wasabi japonica is a slow growing, small (+/- 15 inches high) perennial from the Brassicaceae (cabbage) family, with heartshaped, bright green leaves, long white stems and a thick (four to six inch) long rhizome, which is the part most sought after. It blooms in the spring with very graceful little white flowers, and propagates either by seeds, or with offshoots that generally grow with the mother plant. Today some growers use micro-propagation, especially in Australia, and also in Japan. Wasabi has a very definite hot and sweet pungency to it, which makes it a unique spice. It owes this pungency to several isothiocyanates, a series of compounds that give it its taste as well as its therapeutic properties. On the plant’s level, isothiocyanates act as protectors, deterring pests and defending it against predators and disease. There are two kinds of wasabi - sawa-wasabi and hatakewasabi. Sawa-wasabi is grown in cool mountain streams, and hatake-wasabi grows in damp and shady fields. Connoisseurs would tell you that the better of the two is the sawa-wasabi, as it is hotter and tastier. To grow a healthy batch of wasabi, particularly the sawa-wasabi variety, an air temperature between 46°F and 104°F is ideal. Wasabi also prefers humidity in the summer. Sawa-wasabi needs to grow in pure cool water, at a temperature ideally between 55°F and 66°F. It needs shade and very little nutrients, with just the right mineral balance. As long as these

conditions are met, and the roots remain in a well-oxygenated, fresh flow of water, wasabi will be happy. Growing sawa-wasabi is a difficult job. Fields are built along mountain streams, generally located in deep misty valleys, where the water is diverted into a long line of narrow terraces. It takes 1.5 to two years to grow a mature rhizome. Fields are harvested and replanted chronologically, in order of maturity. When the mother reaches the proper size and the rhizome is ripe, the grower pulls it out and separates the rhizomes from the seedlings. Those same seedlings will be replanted in order for the next crop to emerge. It is very arduous to reach those fields, not to mention being bent in two everyday, with hands and feet in the cold water. A very small number of people are interested in doing this job, and today an increasing number of Japanese farmers are growing hatake-wasabi more quickly (in less than one year’s time) and easier to manage crops. If it wasn’t for some passionate growers - and the increasing demand for the product - the traditional sawa-wasabi would have disappeared to the benefit of hatake-wasabi, or it would be slowly replaced by the “wasabi” we know, the green mixture of horseradish, mustard and food coloring. Demand for the green paste is growing fast, as Japanese restaurants flourish all over the planet. Besides its culinary use, wasabi japonica is known as medicinal, especially for its ability to fight food intoxication. Nowadays researchers are discovering that it has several other medicinal properties. The same isothiocyanates that give it its pungency are the active principles that help cure quite an impressing list of diseases. • anti-cancer: mainly breast, prostate, colon, lung, leukaemia, pancreas, oesophagus and bladder • antioxidant • antibiotic: general infections, oral hygiene, cavity prevention and ulcers • anti-coagulant: blood thinning for circulation and prevention of strokes, treatment of atherosclerosis • anti-inflammatory: asthma, arthritis, allergies, anaphylaxis (aids in the healing process) • aids in bone calcification (fights/prevents osteoporosis)

Wasabi Japonica growing in its natural habitat (left) and the bud of the Wasabi plant (above).

Due to its numerous qualities, and its economical value, more studies have been launched on its medicinal properties as well as in other fields, including the cosmetic industry for instance, to fight skin disease. A New Zealand study growing waikato wasabi showed a yield of three tonnes per hectare of stems ready to export, with a total yield of 17 tonnes per hectare.

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A Wasabi farm with its crops planted in damp, shady fields (above). A familiar sight in asian markets, Wasabi ready for sale (left).

The rest of the crop is totally processed in Japan, including small offshoots and leaves. Fresh wasabi is very highly priced in Japan and worldwide, and the demand is increasing so rapidly, that you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find as much of the product as is necessary. This is why the mixture of horseradish and mustard is so common. Wasabi japonica naturally was added to my list of qualifying plants for hydroponics cultivation as it is arduous to grow outdoors, has numerous medicinal and industrial applications, is increasing in demand worldwide and is a high value crop. I ordered fresh plants from Japan and upon reception, immediately planted them in a highly productive, flexible drip feed system and fed them with a three step feed of liquid concentrated nutrients. As I had little information about growing wasabi, I decided on an EC of 1.5 and a pH of 6.5. It was the summer of 2007 and it was quite hot in the south-west of France, the plants established themselves a little slow; however, they did get established and eventually started growing. On very hot days I could see they were slightly wilted and straining to survive. But as soon as it was cooler, they would revive and resume growth. It was a pleasure to see the first leaves sprout, and eventually watch the whole plant develop. When I saw the first flowers I thought I had a victory, and although I noticed their growth was slightly strenuous, I still planned on the first crop for the end of 2008, or at least spring of the following year. Unfortunately I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get the results I was hoping for. In the fall of 2008, my wasabi plants started to show signs of weakness. Then some damping off developed at the base of the stems and the plants looked miserable. After a few days I saw little dark worms crawling on them, damaging the rhizomes. I tried to save them by dipping all the remaining healthy plants into a barrel of water with an organic silicate power additive - water to drown the worms and the silicate powder to help fight the rot. But it was too late, and the plants were too weak at that time. In a few days the crop was lost. 130

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Wasabi Japonica

Izu Peninsula, the traditional region of wasabi growers.

Wasabi crop.

At that time I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know the reasons for this failure. In November 2008 I had to travel to Japan, so I planned a visit to a wasabi operation. I was directed to the Izu Peninsula, the traditional region of wasabi growers. I visited the well-known Asada Masataka farm, growing Mazuma sawa-wasabi, the best variety there is. To get to the fields I had to walk uphill along a lively mountain stream with mud and water dripping everywhere. After a while, I discovered long rows of green terraces covered with wasabi plants at all stages of growth. I was shown how plants grow, what they need, the way they are separated and replanted and the way they are managed. I was quite lucky to be introduced to the Masataka farm. In Japan, each farmer has his own secret for growing wasabi, which they are not about to reveal to the public, although you can now find growerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advice all over the Internet. This visit was highly informative for me, and revealed the main reasons why my venture was totally unsuccessful. My climatic circumstances were far from being adequate. I grew wasabi in spite of all basic requirements and it is even a miracle I got as far as I did. In fact, it is partly because hydroponics offers a particularly well-adapted environment to wasabi, and the nutrients I used were pure, providing the perfect nutritive balance for this delicate crop. Upon my return, I was ready to experiment some more, now with the knowledge that the conditions pertinent to a successful grow was to keep the right water and air temperatures, and provide a balanced nutrition (low EC with no or very little calcium) to the plants. There is much more to it than that of course. I am eager to continue my tests until I have achieved total success. It has always been a pleasure to grow and experiment on plants and study their potential success in hydroponics. Nowadays, as demand is growing and economical interests are met, there are several successful hydroponics operations growing wasabi, mainly in Australia, New Zealand and on the Pacific Coast of North America. In todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world, hydroponics offers numerous applications, and in the midst of this huge economical turmoil we are facing, it may open up much needed opportunities to any dedicated grower and entrepreneurial person. MY Wild for wasabi? Find tons of tasty wasabi recipes on www.maximumyield.com

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YOU TELL US Maximum Yield talks to young entrepreneur Ross Haley, manager of Vermicrop Organics, about his ecofriendly approach to business and life.

Ross Haley of Vermicrop Organics

How does the Vermicrop Organics line of products uniquely enhance the organic plant growth process?

Vermicrop makes a unique product line with the majority of our products being derived from renewable, earth friendly, recycled and organic contents. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let this mislead you as Vermicrop is leading the world garden market in living liquid biological inoculums, compost inoculation, compost and Vermicompost. Our Vermi T Solution (produced fresh) has the widest diversity of living biology on the market. The Vermi T Solution enhances plant growth through the acceleration of nutrient uptake; it creates efficiencies in the break down and delivery of nutrients thus increasing the health, growth and yields of your crop.Vermi T Solution is 100 per cent organic and can be used in hydroponics.VermiBlend is a rich organic soil amendment blended with Vermicrop earthworm castings, Alaskan Humus,VermiGreen Compost, fossilized kelp and Mycorrhizal fungi. This dark, rich amendment is cost effective and will make any soil gardener smile. 134

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Compost teas are huge in the industry now? How do the beneficial organisms in the tea work together to help plants reach their full potential?

Your team is known to have an earth-conscious mindset. Does this serve as an action item that is carried over into the personal lives of the employees at Vermicrop?

Absolutely! We are a progressive group and we like the finer things in life but we believe it takes little to no additional effort to have an earth conscious mindset. Buy local and organic, use alternative fuels, recycle and reuse Most of the time people think these little things seem like just that, “too little,” but they all add up and make a big difference. It is social economics, we do it, people around us begin doing it, we teach it to our next generation and we all become and stay conscious, making the world a better place.

Compost teas have been around for centuries and have been marketed in the past in our industry by leading companies. When they did not get the sales results they hoped for it fizzled out. Compost teas can be very beneficial but they also can be a host for disaster if done incorrectly. Prior to the launch of the Vermi T Solution the inconsistency and short shelf life limited the use and availability of this type of product. It is a tough one to swallow for most… I have to brew it… It dies in 24 hours… it works sometimes but not others… Vermi T Solution was developed to offer gardeners and retailers the highest diversity of living biology with an easy, safe and constant manner to achieve this living solution.Vermi T Solution has become very popular offered now in over 400 retail stores worldwide and the feedback from our customers is amazing. Stores and customers all over the world are calling and telling us there success stories and sharing their amazement regarding this living liquid! These living organisms work symbiotically with each other and the plant to break down nutrients, remove salts, live on/in the plant

What sustainable or green expansions does Vermicrop have planned for the future?

We currently treat many municipalities diverted green waste with Vermicrop biological inoculums and consult municipalities on making high quality gardener friendly compost. This venture has led us into research and development of other potential waste products that could have use in our market. We are launching a peat moss coco coir alternative that is completely sustainable and produced right here in the US. Keep your eyes open for this great new product coming soon! Please describe to me what it means to be a hybrid gardener?

A hybrid gardener is one that is using both organic and synthetic nutrients together. Most gardeners know that getting a heavy indoor harvest is tough with 100 per cent organic nutrients. Most also know that the quality of the fruit, flowers and herbs using 100 per cent organics can be much higher. With high levels of beneficial biology organic gardens are coming very close in yield; but people are also finding that the dramatic benefits of high levels of beneficial biology in a synthetic fertilized garden are outstanding, thus creating the “hybrid gardener” getting the quality and yield they desire. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

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YOU TELL US

How does the Vermi T 5/10 Extractor work to maintain a consistent, correct balance of biology in order to keep a fresh product for longer than a day, or as long as most compost teas last.

competing with pathogens, increase brix levels and more. One of the great benefits for an experienced gardener is that Vermi T Solution has an extremely low PPM and you do not have to modify your current feeding schedule - just add Vermi T and see the difference. For the amateur gardener the benefits of plant tolerances make any mistakes more forgiving.

The Vermi T Bio-Cartridge is the powerful component that contains the ideal balance of biology. The Vermi T 5/10 Extractor is the devise designed for use with the Vermi T BioCartridge and is what facilitates the extraction of the Vermi T Solution. The Extractor was designed for our cartridges. It is a light weight and easy to clean system that re-circulates water in its reservoir through a venturi air injection, pushing 16 parts air, one part water directly into the Bio-Cartridge. This encourages the necessary microbial growth to produce the Vermi T Solution. We know if you follow the simple four-step process including the activation of the cartridge, the 24 hour brewing cycle and the immediate use or refrigeration after brewing, the outcome will be consistent. As a result of the cultured biological balance in the Vermi T Bio-Cartridge, when refrigerated we are able to maintain viability for up to 14 days. Extracts from the sea such as kelp, seaweed and fish emulsion have recently gained popularity in our industry as excellent fertilizers. What is the reason for this?

The main reason is these products work; they provide a great source of high levels of plant growth hormones, amino acids, micronutrients and potassium. They also have available macronutrients which provide the fastest visual results. Unlike many other â&#x20AC;&#x153;organic fertilizersâ&#x20AC;? on the market with these the gardeners get a satisfying sense of instant gratification. MY

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CHECK YOUR growing I.Q.

by Erik Biksa

1. Why is it important to keep the root zone at optimal temperatures during warmer and hot growing conditions? a) To prevent root pathogens from infecting the crop. b) To help in achieving maximum yields. c) To promote healthy aerobic microbial growth. d) all of the above 2. What measures can be taken to help keep the roots at optimal temperatures? a) In re-circulating systems, a cooling soil can be placed in the reservoir, or an inline chiller may be installed. b) Organic based soilless mediums and potting soils can be used in large containers or raised beds. c) Air-conditioning can be incorporated into the growing environment to keep ambient temperatures down. d) For re-circulating systems, the reservoir can be kept outside the grow room or insulated from the growing environment 3.Why is increased aeration a good idea for recirculating systems during warmer and hot periods? 4. Why are smaller profile lamp reflectors more advantageous during warmer growing conditions?

ANSWERS: June 2009 quiz

5. Is variety selection an important factor when dealing with high growing temperatures? a) Yes, some varieties will actually produce better in tougher, hot growing environments. b) No, all the different strains a plant species prefer similar conditions. 6. Why do spidermites become especially problematic in warmer growing conditions? a) Their alcohol consumption increases. b) They are able to reproduce faster; life cycles are shortened. c) They are more temperamental when sunburned. d) none of the above

1) a, b, c 2) a, b 3) d 4) a, b, c 5) pant and microbial derived sources: the molecules are more familiar to the plant due to evolution and environment 6) b answers to this quiz will be printed in the August 2009 issue of Maximum Yield. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

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PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Continued from page 40

Maverick Sun Introduces D Lux 1000 Watt HPS Horticultural Lamps Last year after numerous tests, Maverick Sun had a breakthrough, making the perfect 600 watt HPS. These 600 watt lamps all run on the same ballasts and reflectors and deliver six to eight per cent higher yields than the competitors’ lamps. The specifications are backed up by lumen and spectral distribution test reports from Lighting Sciences. Now, after months of development, they have perfected the 1000 Watt D Lux HPS lamp. The 14,000 lumen level is the right spectrum, making it better

for growing vegetation than anything on the market. Available in August 2009, this high yielding lamp comes with a full year warranty. The 1,000 watt HPS completes the family of D Lux metal halide and HPS lamps. To find out more about this exciting breakthrough, contact your local hydroponics retailer.

Ful-Power Humic from BioAg There’s the fast way and then there’s the right way. Ful-Power Humic is a true, golden isolate made via BioAg’s cold microbial extraction process. It is the most refined liquid humic available. Often referred to as the champagne of humic acids, Ful-Power is completely organic and boosts plant health and yield. Ful-Power, HumiSolve, TM-7 and CytoPlus come from the humic scientists at BioAg - experts with four decades of experience. Products are made with source, efficacy and the planet in mind. Dry soluble powders like HumiSolve, TM-7 with micronutrients and CytoPlus with seaweed are made with no added heat and work synergistically in most systems, helping to increase nutrient uptake and stretch the grower’s dollar naturally. Now available at your local hydroponics retail store.

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New LED Grow Light from LGL Technologies Nearly 50 per cent more effective than our previous red LED light, the new R220SB combines a more efficient LED with a state of art driver, and uses only 10 watts of energy. It has 220 LEDs and works on an 85 to 260 volt current for use anywhere in the world. The simple screw in Edison base found on all our lights make them ideal for custom applications. Our lights produce so little heat they do not need internal fans to cool them and will easily last for more than 50,000 hours.

We guarantee this new LED light to outperform any other LED light with savings in electrical costs over traditional HID systems. Your customers will save between three to 12 times the cost of the system over five years of commercial use. The R220SB combines high efficiency and increased brightness with optimal color output, resulting in the most advanced and effective design available anywhere. For more information visit an indoor gardening store near you.

Sure To Grow Launches New Biodegradable Cloner Insert To meet the demand for eco-friendly products, STG has developed a two inch diameter Cloner puck made from Tencel. Tencel is a cellulose fiber made from trees and is in-soil degradable. The STG Cloner puck is designed to be a seamless replacement for current neoprene products. Unlike neoprene, the STG puck goes from the cloner to the next stage of growth with no additional transplant needed. This not only reduces the occurrence of transplant shock, but also saves growers a lot of time. Truly two great value added benefits. The STG Cloner puck fits the most common size clone systems like EZ Cloner, Botanicare, Power Cloner, Clone Machine and can also be used in conjunction with STGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new line of inserts for net pots and buckets. To learn more about this product line, go to the STG YouTube channel at www.SureToGrowVideo.com, or visit an indoor gardening store near you.

Sure To Grow Launches New Line for Net Pots and Buckets STG has done it again with the launch of a revolutionary new line of one piece solid inserts for net pot and bucket systems, as a seamless replacement for hydroton. The inserts are ready to use out of the box, require no pre-treatment, are pH neutral and use STGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s non-wicking technology, which means dry top surfaces and little to no green algae. The STG Inserts feature a 1.5 inch cube cut out on top to accommodate almost any size grow cube or cloner. With 10 distinctive sizes and dimensions, the STG Inserts will fit into all of the most widely used net pot and bucket systems including the C.A.P. Ebb and Grow, General Hydroponics, Botanicare, EZ Cloner, plus many more. To learn more about this product line, go to our YouTube channel at www.SureToGrowVideo.com, or visit an indoor gardening store near you. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

143

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Everest Nation’s Clean as you Grow Clean as you grow technology introduced by Everest Nation, has revolutionized the indoor gardening industry with their hydroponic cleaning equipment. Upon contact the spray on, wipe off compounds used in their specialty solutions break down residual fertilizer build-up left on hydroponic components during and after cycles. The result reduces wear and tear on trays, pumps, reservoirs and hydroponic hardware preserving their longevity, durability and lifespan. All formulations are pH and PPM buffered, promoting stabilized nutrient solutions as you are able to conveniently clean your equipment throughout growth cycles. Vikan Hygiene accessories and specialty towels enhance the cleaning system ensuring cleanliness is next to

godliness with your garden and equipment. Conserve time, energy, water, funds and the environment utilizing the Clean As You Grow patented formulas. Rain, Horizen, Shine and White Out are completely organic and safe to use around plants, animals and humans promoting eco-friendly practice and design. Visit an indoor gardening store to learn more.

Osram Sylvania Introduces Wide Spectrum T8 Fluorescent Lamps Sylvania’s Octron® T8 wide spectrum fluorescent lamps provide essential energy for use in indoor gardening applications. These lamps provide the types of light that are most beneficial for plants’ essential processes. Sylvania lamps provide the right balance of red and blue wavelengths. In fact, the Sylvania T8 Gro-lux wide spectrum

lamp produces 10 per cent more Photosynthetically Active Radiation (uMoles/m2s) versus the equivalent T12 Gro-lux wide spectrum light source. These lamps bring out the vibrant natural colors of foliage, flowers and vegetables, enhancing their appearance. The lamps operate on Quicktronic® QHE high efficiency electronic ballasts with maximum efficacy and high lumen output, while providing 30 to 60 per cent energy savings when compared to F40T12 magnetic systems. The systems are available with low, normal and high ballast factors, which produce a wide variety of light outputs for any applications such as warehouses or lower ceilings. The system is covered by the Quick 60+® warranty, the first and most comprehensive warranty in the industry. Visit an indoor gardening retailer to learn more.

MY You can find all of our products online at www.maximumyield.com. Each month your favorite new product profiles will be featured on our website. Get the latest information on what will make your garden grow. Do you want to be included in the product spotlight? Contact the editor at 1-250-279-2677 or email editor@maximumyield.com

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AVANT-GARDENING

Introduction to Aquaponics by Kirk Gordon

Hydroponics and aquaponics are very similar in every way except hydroponics requires the addition of fertilizer and there’s no fish in the nutrient solution. In aquaponics, plants and fish live a symbiotic life with the fish feeding the plants, and the plants cleaning and filtering the fish’s environment. The fish waste becomes the plant’s food source; consequently, the plants’ roots filter the water and keep the tank clean. In essence, aquaponics could be considered a miniature ecosystem because both plants and fish are thriving in the same environment. Aquaponics offer benefits to both gardeners and fish farmers. Fish Farmers may utilize aquaponics if they have difficulty disposing the nutrient rich fish water, while hydroponics growers benefit from having a constant supply of free plant food – eliminating the need to purchase commercial fertilizers. Unlike hydroponics or aeroponics, aquaponics is still a relatively new cultivation technique. As more technology is developed and the process is refined, it could potentially become a space and money saving process for producing fish, vegetables and herbs. In hydroponics and aeroponics applications, the nutrient solution needs to be prepared – measured, mixed and then added to the reservoir. In aquaponics, there’s no mixing fertilizer involved, making it a great way for beginners to cultivate plants. Only the fish need to be fed. The number of commercial applications utilizing aquaponics is still very limited. A number of universities globally are currently exploring the science of aquaponics to advance this extreme cultivation technique. Aquaponics is currently being used in areas where the fish population is declining and/or their food supply must be imported. This article is courtesy of www.hydroponicsearch.com Aquaponics Search Engine and Community. (Source: http:// EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kirk_Gordon) MY

An aquaponic greenhouse showing plants being supplied nutrients from their fishy counterparts (far left). Tilapia, a common species, thrive in their own tank, providing nutrient-rich water to the plants (left).

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DO YOU

know?

1 As plants grow they simultaneously remove both

water and nutrients from the nutrient solution. This can cause the nutrient strength to either increase or decrease, depending on which is being consumed at the faster rate.

largest organisms on the planet are single 2 The individuals of fungi, which dwarf the largest mammals by four to five fold or more.

3 There is no one recognized chemical structure

for humic acid or fulvic acid. The main distinction between the two is their pH and solubility in water.

flame produced by high quality specialty 4 The CO generators is pure blue, indicating that few 2

impurities will be released with the CO2 during combustion. philosopher Ludwig Andrea Feuerbach is 5 German attributed to the phrase, “You are what you eat.”

7 8 9

Air is necessary for high quality compost because it helps the plant materials break down. Shade, on the other hand, keeps things from drying out, which is necessary because moisture enables the process of decomposition.

An advantage sod holds over seed is the ability to assimilate specialty fertilizers upon installation with a lower risk of over-fertilization.

Iron’s mobility in plant tissues seems to be affected by the presence of manganese, potassium deficiency and high light intensity.

Lisianthus is very sensitive to salts in the early stages and should only be given water during the germination stage and dilute nutrient solution until the time of transplanting.

technique for cleaning seeds is called “dry 10 Aprocessing and winnowing.” This technique is for plants that produce seeds in pods or husks (i.e. peas and beans).

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

ALABAMA Alabama Organics 3348 Bethel Road, Valley Head, AL 35989 256-635-0802

ALASKA Brown’s Electrical Supply 365 Industrial Way, Anchorage, AK 99501 907-272-2259 Far North Garden Supply 300 Centaur Street, Wasilla, AK 99654 907-376-7586 Far North Garden Supply 2834 Boniface Parkway Anchorage, AK 99504 907-333-3141 Holmtown Nursery Inc. 1301 - 30th Avenue, Fairbanks, AK 99701 907-451-8733

ARIZONA ACI Hydroponics 1325 South Park Lane, Tempe, AZ 85282 800-633-2137 Homegrown Hydroponics 601 East Broadway Road, Tempe, AZ 85282 480-377-9096 Homegrown Hydroponics 1702 East Prince Road, Tucson, AZ 85719 520-323-1212 Natural Pools & Gardens 2143 North Country Suite C, Tucson, AZ 85716 520-323-2627 Sea of Green Hydroponics 815 W. University Drive, Suite 110, Tempe, AZ 85281 800-266-4136 Sea of Green West 2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116, Phoenix, AZ 85023 602-504-8842 Sea of Green Hydroponics 402 North 4th Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-622-6344

ARKANSAS Fermentables 3915 Crutcher Street, N. Little Rock, AR 72118 501-758-6261 Mickey’s Mercantile 1303 Highway 65 South, Clinton, AR 72031 501-412-0214 Old Soul Organics and More 1771 Crossover Road, Fayetteville, AR 72701 479-444-6955

CALIFORNIA 101 Hydroponics 2550 Vineyard Avenue, #200 Oxnard, CA 93030 805-988-6537 A+ Plant Technologies 1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 95521 949-642-7776

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A Fertile World (Eureka) 65 th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-0200 A Fertile World (Fortuna) 610 7th Street Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-0700 Advanced Garden Supply 2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard, Building C, Unit 9, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-4769 Advanced Garden Supply 3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F, Cameron Park, CA 95682, 530-676-2100 Advanced Hydroponics 17808 Sierra Highway, Canyon Country, CA 91351 661-299-1603 Advanced Indoor Agriculture 74991 Joni Drive, Suite 9, Palm Desert, CA 92260 AG Natural 111 East 12th Street, Marysville, CA 95901 Alameda County Hydroponics 20910 Redwood Road, Suite C, Castro Valley, CA 94546 All Seasons Hydroponics 17614 Chatsworth Street, Granada Hills, CA 91344 818-368-4388 Alternative Hydro 3870 East, Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91107 888-50-HYDRO Always Sunny Hydroponics 708 W. Swain Road Stockton, CA 95207 209-473-9827 American Garden Supply 286 South G Street, Arcata, CA 95521 800-458-6543 Anthony’s Garden & Lighting Supply 30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9 Sutter Creek, CA 95685 209-267-5416 Anything Grows 10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C, Truckee, CA 96161 530-582-0479 Atwater Hydroponics 3350 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90039 323-663-8881 Auburn Organic 4035 Grass Valley Highway, Auburn, CA 95602 530-823-8900 B & S Gardening Supplies 590 Commerce Court, Manteca, CA 95336 209-239-8648 Bakersfield Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 Bare Roots Hydroponics 1615 East Cypress, #5 Redding, CA 96002 530-244-2215

Beginning Hydroponics PO Box 1232, Corona, CA 92787 951-735-4446 Best Coast Growers 4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C, San Diego, CA 92120 800-827-1876 Best Yield Garden Supply 3503 Temple Avenue #A, Pomona, CA 91768 909-839-0505 Berkeley Indoor Garden 844 University Avenue Berkeley, CA 94710 510-549-2918 Berkeley’s Secret Garden 921 University Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710 510-486-0117 Better Grow Hydro Pasadena 1271 E. Colorado Boulevard, Pasedena, CA 91106 626 737 6612 Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles 5554 Bandini Boulevard, Bell, CA 91106 323-510-2700; 877 640 GROW BWGS West 2247 North Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291 888-316-1306 California Hydroponics 310 Coral Street, Suite C Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-423-4769 Caliponics Inc. 2030 Viborg Road, Unit 110 Solvang, CA 93463 877-PONICS9 Central Coast Hydrogarden 1951 Santa Barbara Street, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805-544-GROW Citrus Heights Hydrogarden 8043 Greenback Lane Citrus Heights, CA 95610 916-728-4769 City Farmer’s Nursery 4832 Home Avenue, San Diego, CA 92105 619-284-6358 Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply 2626 South Main Street, Lakeport, CA 95453 707-263-4000 CNG Garden Supplies 22 Ricknbacker Circle, Livermore, CA 94551 209-836-5550 Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics 116 West Orangeburg Avenue, Modesto, CA 95350 209-567-0590 Concord Indoor Garden 2771 Clayton Road, Concord, CA 94519 925-671-2520 Conejo Hydroponics 3481 Old Conejo Road #106 Newbury Park, CA 91320 805-480-9596

Conrad Hydroponics Inc. 14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive, Clearlake, CA 95422 707-994 3264 Constantly Growing 6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite A Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-642-9710 Constantly Growing 4343 Hazel Avenue, Fair Oaks, CA 95628 916-962-0043 Constantly Growing - Davis 123 D Street Davis, CA 95616 530-756-4774 D&S Garden Supplies 17-130 Doolittle Drive San Leandro, CA 94577 510-430-8589 Dazeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Supply 3082 Redwood Drive, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3002 Dirt Cheap Hydroponics 17975 H Highway 1, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-964-4211 Discount Hydroponics 4745 Hiers Avenue, Riverside, CA 92505 877-476-9487 Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply 164 Dinsmore Drive, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-726-0395 Elite Horticulture Supply 22330 Sherman Way, C13, Canoga Park, CA 91303 818-347-5172 Emerald Garden 8249 Archibald Avenue, Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730 909-466-3796 Emerald Garden 13325 South Highway 101, Hopland, CA 95482 707-744-8300 Emerald Garden 307 East Perkins Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-463-2510 Evergreen Hydroponics 923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B, Upland, CA 91786 909-946-7100 Everything Green Hydroponics 915 Texas Street, Fairfield, CA 94533 707-432-0774 Everything Green 448 Georgia Street, Vallejo, CA 94590 707-647-0774 EZ Green Hydroponics 7017 Reseda Boulevard, Reseda, CA 91335 818-776-9076 Farm Hydroponics, The 1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-3276 Foothill Hydroponics 10705 Burbank Boulevard, N. Hollywood, CA 91601 818-760-0688

Foothills Hydrogarden 3133 Penryn Road, Penryn, CA 95663 916-270-2413 Four Seasons Garden Center 1737 Broadway, Oakland, CA 94612 510-832-2545 Full Sun Supply 3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3 Santa Rosa, CA 95403 877-FULL-SUN Funny Farms Hydroponics 963 Transport Way, #12 Petaluma, CA 94954 707-775-3111 G & G Organics and Hydroponics 901 W. Victoria Street Unit D, Compton, CA 90220 310-632-0122 Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2 Chico, CA 95928 530-342-7762 Garden Depot, The 203 Commerce St., Suite 101 Lodi, CA 95240 209-339-9950 Garden Shed, The 1136 El Camino Real San Carlos, CA 650-508-8600 Garden Spout, The 44800 Highway 101, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-7260 Garden Highway Garden Supply 598 Garden Highway #22 Yuba City, CA 95991 530-755-2877 Garden Spout, The 630 S. Main Street, Willits, CA 95490 707-456-0196 Garden Warehouse 6355 Scarlet Court, #2, Dublin, CA 94568 925-556-3319 Go Big Hydroponics 4501 Van Nuys Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91403 818-789-3341 Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply 8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48, Stockton, CA 95210 209-951-3550 Gottagrow Garden Supply 769 Wilson Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 707-544-7782 Grass Roots Hydroponics 31877 Corydon, Suite 150 Lake Elsinore, CA 92530 951-245-2390 Grass Valley Hydrogardens 12520 Ste. 4, Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 93945 530-477-2996 Green Acres Hydroponics 1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180, Sacramento, CA 95834 916-419-4394 Green Coast Hydroponics 3560 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805-898-9922

Green Coast Hydroponics 2405 Mira Mar Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-627-5636 Green Coast Hydroponics 496 Meats Avenue Orange, CA 92865 714-974-4769 Green Coast Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Greenfire Sacramento 3230 Auburn Boulevard, Sacramento, CA 95821 916-485-8023 Green Logic Garden Supply 860 Piner Road, #38, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 707-843-3156 Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply 1480 South E. Street, Suite D, San Bernardino, CA 92408 909-885-5919 Green Thumb Hydroponics 35 Quinta Court, Suite B, Sacramento, CA 95823 916-689-6464 Green Thumb Lighting & Garden 1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5, Torrance, CA 90501 888-326-GROW Greentrees Hydroponics Inc. 2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit D Vista, CA 92081 760-598-7551 GreenWay Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego 1591 N. Cuyamaca Street, El Cajon, CA 92020 619-300-2138 Growers Choice Hydroponics 1100 Carver Road, Modesto, CA 95350 209-522-2727 Growers Choice Hydroponics 16754 East 14th Street, San Leandro, CA 94578 510-278-6200 Grow It Yourself Gardens 401 Sunset Drive, Suite L, Antioch, CA 94509 925-755-GROW Grow King Hydroponics 932 South San Pedro Street, Los Angeles, CA 90015 213-689-8982 Grow Light Express 5318 East Second Street suite 164, Long Beach, CA 90803 888-318-GROW Grow Your Own 3401 Traval Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-731-2115 Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics 12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C, Riverside, CA 92503 877-468-7974 H20 Gardening 355 West 7th Street, San Pedro, CA 90731 310-514-1416

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

153

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Hahn’s Lighting 260 E. VA Suite 1, San Jose, CA 95112 408-295-1755 Harvest Hydroponics 6650 Merchandise Way Suite B, Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-622-5190 High Desert Hydroponics 13631 Pawnee Road, #7 Apple Valley, CA 92308 760-247-2090 Hi-Tech Gardening 5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-4710 Hooked Up Hydroponics 339 S. Golden State Boulevard, Turlock, CA 95380 209-668-1300 House of Hydro 224 Weller Street, #B, Petaluma, CA 94952 707-762-4769 Humboldt Hydroponics 1302 Union Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-4304 Humboldt Nutrients 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 888-420-7770 Hydro Depot 5665 Redwood Drive, #B, Rohnert Park, CA 94928 707-584-2384 Hydroasis 2643 S. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90232 888-355-4769 Hydrobrew 1319 South Coast Highway, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-966-1885; 877-966-GROW Hydrogarden Delight 13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577 510-903-1808 Hydrogarden Mendocino County 1240 North Main Street, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-962-9252 Hydro-Logic Purification Systems 2825 Mattison Lane, Suite 103, Santa Cruz, CA 95065 888 H2O LOGIC HydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 351 C Hastings Av., Ukiah, CA 95482 707-467-0400 Hydroponic Connection, The 316 Fillmore Street, San Francisco, CA 94117 415-864-9376 Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The 1995 Evans Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124 415-824-9376 Hydroponics 4 Less 41669 Winchester Avenue, Temecula, CA 92590 800-A1-HYDRO

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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Hydroponics Plus 2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite C Concord, CA 94520 925-691-7615 Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics 1307 W. Sixth Street, #211, Corona, CA 92882 951-479-8069 Inland Empire Hydrogarden 1301-C South State Street, San Jancinto, CA 92853 886-72-HYDRO Inland Empire Hydrogarden 28822 Old Town Front St. #206 Temecula, CA 92590 886-74-HYDRO Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS) 7922-B Miramar Road, San Diego, CA 92126 858-578-IGS7 Kaweah Grower Supply 1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way, Visalia, CA 93293 559-652-4937 Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics ‘N’ More 14626 East Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90605 562-945-0909 Let it Grow 1228 2nd Street, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-9086 Let it Grow 160 Westwood Center, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-8733 Liquid Gardens 21752 Devonshire Street, Chatsworth, CA 91311 818-718-7624 Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics 1772 Clark Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-498-9525 Lumatek Digital Ballasts 33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite B Novato, CA 94949 415-233-4273 M&M Garden Supply 2509 West Lane, Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 209-939-0664 M&M Garden Supply 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 Marin Hydroponics 1219 Grant Avenue, Novato, CA 94945 415-897-2197 Merced Hydroponics 1635 M Street, Merced, CA 95340 209-726-4769 Mendocino Garden Shop PO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1), Mendocino, CA 95460 707-937-3459 Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply 900 East School Way, Redwood Valley, CA 95470 707-485-0668

M.G.S. 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, Hayward, CA 94541 510-582-0900 Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply 224B Reindollar Avenue, Marina, CA 93933 831-38-HYDRO Monterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics 81 Hangar Way, #1, Watsonville, CA 95076 831-761-9999 Myron L Company 2450 Impala Drive, Carlsband, CA 9210-7226 760-438-2021 Mystic Gardens 8484 Florin Road, #110, Sacramento, CA 95828 916-381-2464 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 1950 C South Grove Avenue, Ontario, CA 91761 888-888-3319 Nature’s Dance Garden Supply 6542 Front Street, Forestville, CA 95436 707-887-2280 Nature’s Secret Garden and Supply 41469 Albrae Street, Fremont, CA 94577 510-623-8393 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 122 West 4th Street, Suite B Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-9999 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 1580 Nursery Way, Suite Q McKinleyville, CA 95519 707-839-9998 Northcoast Hydrogardens 3450 North State Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-462-7214 No Stress Hydroponics 7543 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90046 323-845-9874 NorCal Creations PO Box 28, Cedar Ridge, CA 95924 One Stop Hydroponics 12822 Victory Boulevard North Hollywood, CA 91606 818-980-5855 Oracle Garden Supply 5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100 San Diego, CA 92121 858-558-6006 Orange County Hydroponics 12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H, Stanton, CA 90680 714-893-9493 Organic Bountea 1919 Dennis Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 800-798-0765 Orsa Organix 111 Willow Street, Redwood City, CA 94063 650-369-1269 Pacific Beach Hydroponics 1852 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, CA 92109 858-274-2559

Pacific Coast Hydroponics 4147 Sepulveda Boulevard, Culver City, CA 90230 310-313-1354 Pacific Garden Supply 128 H Carlos Drive, San Rafael, CA 94903 Palmdale Hydroponics 2728 East Palmdale Boulevard Suite 108, Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-9908 Palm Springs Hydroponics 4651 Ramon Road, Palm Springs, CA 92264 760-327-ROOT Plant It Earth 2279 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94114 415-626-5082 Plant Life 32 Race Street, San Jose, CA 95126 408-283-9191 Precision Hydroponics 132 Kennedy Avenue, Campbell, CA 95008 408-866-8176 Professional Gardening Systems 765 Petaluma Avenue, Sebastopol, CA 95472 707-829-7252 Pro Gardening Systems 3715 Santa Rosa Ave. Suite A2, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-585-8633 Redway Feed & Grain Supply 290 Briceland Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-2765 Roots Grow Supply 1330 North Hulbert, #101 Fresno, CA 93728 559-840-0122 Sac Hydroponics 9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite C Sacramento, CA 95827 916-369-7968 San Diego Hydroponics East County 11649 Riverside Drive, Suite 141, Lakeside, CA 92040 619-562-3276 San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities 4122 Napier Street, San Diego, CA 92110 619-276-0657 San Diego Hydroponics North 802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108 San Marcos, CA 92069 760-510-1444 San Francisco Hydro 123 Tenth Street, San Francisco, CA 94103 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West 815 Almar Avenue, Suite K, Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-466-9000 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East 4000 Cordelia Lane #4, Soquel, CA 95073 831-475-9900 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North 6241 Graham Hill Road, Felton, CA 95018 831-335-9990

Santee Hydroponics 7973A Mission Gorge Road, Santee, CA 92071 619-270-8649 Seaside Hydrogarden 1070 Highway 101 North, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-465-3520 Skywide Import & Export Ltd. 5900 Lemon Hill Avenue, Sacramento, CA 95824 916-383-2369 Socal Hydroponics 1727-B Oceanside Boulevard, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-439-1084 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics 569 East Evelyn Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94041 650-968-4070 South County Hydroponics 22511 Aspan Street, Suite E Lake Forest, CA 92630 949-837-8252 South Valley Hydroponics 320 Kishimura Drive, #3 Gilroy, CA 95020 1-866-848-GROW Sparetime Supply 208 E. San Francisco Avenue, Willits, CA 95490-4006 707-459-6791 Sun-In Hydroponics 1257A Cleveland Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-578-5747 Sunland Hydroponics 8300 Foothill Boulevard, Sunland, CA 91040 818-352-5300 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 850 Shasta Avenue, Suite B Morro Bay, CA 93442 805-772-5869 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2 Paso Robles, CA 93446 805-434-2333 Sweet Leaf Hydroponics 1611 Sebastobol Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-575-GROW (4237) Sylvandale Gardens 77 Avenue, Of The Giants, Phillipsville, CA 95559 707-923-3606 Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening 62 Sutherland Drive, Auburn, CA 95603 530-889-8171 Thrive Hydroponics 70 A West North Street, Healdsburg, CA 95446 707-433-4068 Thunders Hydroponic Center 1729 Yosemite Boulevard, Medesco, CA 95354 TNC Supply 9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763 Upper Lake, CA 95485 707-275-9565 Tower Garden Supply 3 E Olive, Fresno, CA 93728 559-495-1140

Tulare County Growers Supply 435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A, Farmerville, CA 93223 559-732-8247 Turbo Grow 1889 San Pablo Avenue, Pinole, CA 94564 510-724-1291 Urban Gardens 22516 Ventura Boulevard, Woodland Hills, CA 91364 818-876-0222 Urban Gardens Unlimited 704 Filbert Street, San Francisco, CA 94133 415-421-4769 US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies 1621 South Rose Avenue, Oxnard, CA 93033 805-247-0086 Valley Garden Solutions Inc. 15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104, North Hills, CA 91345 818-336-0041 Wai Kula Hydrogardens 5297 Linda Vista Road, San Diego, CA 92110 619-299-7299 Weather Top Nursery 44901 Harmon Drive, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-6385 We Grow Hydroponics 3350 East Los Angeles Avenue, Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-624-4566 West Coast Growers Hydroponics 13481 Colifax Highway, Grass Valley, CA 95945 888-924-4769 West Coast Hydroponics, Inc. 27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 949-348-2424 Western Auto 1156 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-1189

COLORADO Bath Nursery & Garden Center 2000 E. Prospect, Fort Collins, CO 80525 970-484-5022 Big Tomato, The 14440 E. 6th Avenue Aurora, CO 80011 303-364-4769 Big Tomato, The 3000 Main Avenue, Durango, CO 81301 970-375-1238 Boulder County Caregivers PO Box 7406, Golden, CO 80403 303-495-2195 Boulder Hydroponics 1630 N. 63rd Street, #5, Boulder, CO 80301 303-415-0045 Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics 7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120A Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 303-954-9897

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

155

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center 6810 North Broadway, Unit D Denver, CO 80221 303-650-0091 Desert Bloom Hydroponics 445 Pitkin Avenue, Grand Junction, CO 81501 970-245-6427 Garden Tech 737 Garden of the Gods Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-278-9777 Greenhouse Tech 917 East Fillmore, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-634-0637 Grow Store South, The 5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37, Englewood, CO 80110 303-738-0202 Grow Store, The 8644 W. Colfax Avenue, Lakewood, CO 80215 888-510-0350 Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium 34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9, North Edwards, CO 81632 970-569-3139 Hydro Shack, The 220 Main Street, Suite E Frisco, CO 80443 970-668-0359 Indoor Paradise Hydroponics 309 S. Summit View, Unit 17, Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462 970-221-3751 Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics 7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3D Denver, CO 80221 303-428-5020 Way To Grow 3201 E. Mulberry Street, Fort Collins, CO 80524 970-484-4769 Way To Grow 6395 Gunpark Drive, Boulder, CO 80301 303-473-4769

CONNECTICUT Harvest Moon Hydroponics 775 Silver Lane, East Hartford, CT 06118 860-568-4067 Organix Hydroponics 749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza) Middletown, CT 06457 860-343-1923

FLORIDA 3D Hydroponics and Organics 7139 US Highway #19, New Port Richey, FL 34652 727-847-3491 Absolute Growing Solutions Inc. 7307 49th Street, Pinellas Park, FL 33781 727-541-3333 Advanced Hydro Gardens 4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4, Miami, FL 33014 866-97-HYDRO

156

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

Atlantic Hydroponics 430 Count Street, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-1535 Blossoms Experience, The 7207 NW 54th Street, Miami, FL 33166 866-452-4769 Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies 946 18th Avenue SW, Vero Beach, FL 32962 772-564-8880 East Coast Hydroponics & Organics 461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105 Coca, FL 32922 321-243-6800 Eden Garden Supply 5044 N. Palafox Street, Pensacola, FL 32505 850-439-1299 Florida Garden Supplies 2692 W 79 Street, Hialeah, FL 33016 1-800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8020 Belvedere Road,Unit 4, West Palm Beach, FL 33411 561-333-1088 Future Farms Inc., The 14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105 Miami, FL 33186 305-382-2757 Gardener’s Edge Gainesville 5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13, Gainesville, FL 32605 352-375-2769 Gardener’s Edge Jacksonville 5325 Fairmont Street, Jacksonville, FL 32207 904-398-8012 Gardening Indoors of St. Pete 13920 88th Avenue North, Seminole, FL 33776 Gold Coast Hydroponics 1539 SW 21st Avenue, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312 1-800-780-7371 Gold Coast Hydroponics 4241 SW 71st Avenue, Miami, FL 33155 1-800-780-6805 Grace’s Hydro-Organic Garden Center 8877 North 56th Street Tampa, FL 33617 813-514-9376 Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies 13482 North Cleveland Avenue, Fort Meyers, FL 33903 239-997-4769 GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc. 5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104 Davie, FL 33314 954-316-8815 Grower's Choice & Hydroponics 11855 North Main Street, Jackonsonville, FL 32218 904-683-4517 Growing Experience, The 7029-9 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 954-960-0822

Growing Garden Inc., The 12811 SW 42nd Street, Miami, FL 33175 305-559-0309 Harvest Time Hydroponics 14414 N. Florida Avenue, Tampa, FL 33613 813-264-7101 Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc. 196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F, Pensacola, FL 32534 850-912-4545 High Tech Garden Supply 2975 West New Haven Avenue, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-0853 Hydro For Less 9545 Southwest 72nd Street, Miami, FL 33173 305-598-4311 Hydroponics International Inc. 7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 904-693-6554 Hydroponics of Tampa 120 W. Bougain Villea, Tampa, FL 33612 813-333-6828 Hydro Terra Corp. 924 North Federal Highway, Hollywood, FL 33020 954-920-0889 Just Ripe Garden Supply 13444 SW 131 Street, Miami, FL 33186 305-969-2004 Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc. 968 N. Congress Avenue, West Palm Beach, FL 33409 561-296-6161 Simply Hydroponics & Organics 7949 Ulmerton Road, Largo, FL 33773 727-531-5355 Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North) 3642 South Suncoast Boulevard, Homosassa, FL 34448 352-628-2655 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 1420 East Altomonte Drive, Altamonte Spring, FL 32701 407-830-GROW Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 5561 S. Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando, FL 32809 407-859-7728 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 6100 Hanging Moss Road, Suite 500, Orlando, FL 32807 888-833-GROW Worm’s Way Florida 4412 North 56th Street, Tampa, FL 33610 800-283-9676; 813-621-1792 GEORGIA Atlantis Hydroponics 1422 Woodmont Lane, #4, Atlanta, GA 30318 404-367-0052 Atlantis Hydroponics 2561 West Point Avenue, College Park, GA 30337 678-510-0032

Flora Hydroponics Inc. 2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600 Athens, GA 30607 866-404-0551 Savannah Hydroponics & Organics 4107 Eighth Street, Suite C Garden City, GA 31408 912-349-4030

Let it Grow 10273 Samuel Road, Crainville, IL 62918 573-450-5075 Water Works Indoor Gardening 1900 South Dirksen Parkway, Springfield, IL 62703 217-553-6929

HAWAII Aqua Plant Hawaii / Kahala Hydroponics 4224 Wailae, Suite 1A, Honolulu, HI 96816 808-735-8665 Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply 300 Hukilike Street, #2M, Kahalui, HI 96732 808-871-6393 Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer 15-2754 Old Government Road, Pahoa, HI 96778 808-965-9955

INDIANA

IDAHO Boise Hydroponics 614 North Orchard Street, Boise, ID 83706 208-344-3053 Greenthumb Greenhouses 5895 Ensign Avenue, Boise, ID 83714

ILLINOIS Aerostar Global 824 South Kay Avenue, Addison, IL 60101 Alternative Garden Supply A-615 Industrial Drive, Gary, IL 60013 800-444-2837 Big Grow Hydroponics 9225 Trinity Drive, Lake In The Hills, IL 60156 Brew and Grow 1824 North Besly Court, Chicago, IL 60622 773-395-1500 Brew and Grow 3224 South Alpine Road, Rockford, IL 61109 815-874-5700 Brew and Grow 2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60194 847-885-8282 Fertile Ground 463 West MacArthur Drive, Cottage Hills, IL 62018 618-259-5500 Green Fields 8137 N. Milwaukee, Niles, IL 60714 847-965-5056 Grow Big Hydroponics 7817 B North 2nd Street, Manchesney Park, IL 61115 815-637-4769 Hydrocork 20647 Renwick Road, Crest Hill, IL 60435 815-838-0100 Kreation’s Indoor Gardening Center 3427 Old Chatman Road, Springfield, IL 62704 217-341-0821

BWGS 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-316-1306 Five Point Gardens 56555 Oak Road, South Bend, IN 46619 574-287-9232 Frogs Lilly Pad, The 706 Citation Road, Carmel, IN 46032 317-846-4610 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 4200 S. East Street, Indianapolis, IN 46227 317-780-8070 Magic Bulb Garden Center 6229 Allisonville Road, Indianapolis, IN 46220 317-202-2852 Sunleaves Garden Products 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 888-464-9676 Worm’s Way Indiana 7850 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-598-8158

KANSAS Green Circle Hydroponics 6890 W. 105th Street, Overland Park, KS 66212 913-642-3888

KENTUCKY Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Shop, The of Lexington 2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130, Lexington, KY 40509 859-268-0779 Louisville Hydroponics 3471 Taylor Boulevard, Louisville, KY 40215 502-366-4000 New Earth Garden Center 9810 Taylorsville Road, Louisville, KY 40299 800-462-5953 Worm’s Way Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088

LOUISIANA Laughing Buddha Nursery 4516 Clearview Parkway, Metairie, LA 70006 504-887-4336 Urban Organics 2805 St. Claude Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70117 504-945-8845

MAINE Green Thumb Indoor Gardening 19 Stage Road, St. Albans, ME 04971 207-938-5909 Urban Gardenstore, The 235 Lewiston Road, Topshan, ME 04086 207-373-0990

MARYLAND East Coast Organics 2800 Sisson Street, Baltimore, MD 21211 Healthy Gardens and Supply 5001-F Harford Road, Baltimore, MD 21214 443-708-5144 Maryland Hydroponics & Garden Supply 10-10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723 866-MD-HYDRO Meadowview Feed & Garden Center 1202 Meadowview Road, Pasadena, MD 21122 443-817-0018 Purple Mountain Organics 100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue, Takoma Park, MD 20912 877-538-9901

MASSACHUSETTS Green Path Garden Supply 276 West Main Street, Northborough, MA 01532 508-393-4181 Worm’s Way Massachusetts 121 Worc-Providence Turnpike, Sutton, MA 01590 800-284-9676

MICHIGAN BIg Creek Hydroponics 555 Old Little Lake Road, Marquette, MI 49855 906-249-5297 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 23529 Little Mack Avenue, St Claire’s Shores, MI 48080 586-775-9485 Growco Garden Supply 1042 Michigan Street, NE, Grand Rapids, MI 49503 877-939-6900 Home Grown Hydroponics 8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C, Saginaw MI 48609 989-781-1930 Homelight Gardens 3471 S. Huron Road, Bay City, MI 48706 989-922-0088 Horizen Hydroponics 1614 Leonard Street, NW, Grand Rapids, MI 49504 866-791-7057 Hydroharrys.com 24500 Dequindre, Warren, MI 48091 800-461-8819 J&L Growco 206 S. Michigan Avenue, Big Rapids, MI 49307 231-796-1528

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Kalamazoo Indoor Garden 450 W. Maple, Kalamazoo, MI 49001 269-344-2550 Light Green Water 3661 Highland Road, Waterford, MI 48329 248-681-0001 Sunshine Supply Co. 1807 South Mission, Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858 989-775-3700 Superior Growers Supply 19582 Middlebelt Road, Livonia, MI 48152 248-473-0450 Superior Growers Supply 4870 Dawn Avenue, East Lansing, MI 48823 517-332-2663 Van Hydro 7480 N State, Davison, MI 48423 810-653-8267 Wild Child 7740 M 72 East, Traverse City, MI 49690 866-711-GROW

MINNESOTA American Garden Supply 601-6th Avenue, North, Princeton, MN 55371 763-631-0543 Brew and Grow 8179 University Avenue, Fridley, MN 55432 612-780-8191 EcoGarden Supply 1553 Como Avenue, Suite B St. Paul, MN 55108 Eden Indoor Organic Gardens 831 Highway 75 North Moorhead, MN 56560 218-477-EDEN (3336) Indoor Gardening 10 NE 3rd Street, Faribault, MN 55021 507-209-1546 Interior Gardens 115 -1620 Central Avenue NE, Minneapolis, MN 55413 800-498-4178; 612-870-9077 Midwest Hydroponics 3440 Belt Line Boulevard, Suite A, Minneapolis, MN 55416 888-449-2739 Still-H2O Inc. 14375 North 60th Street, Stillwater, MN 55082 651-351-2822

MISSOURI Divine Hydroponics 301 North Bishop Avenue, Rolla, MO 65401 573-426-2348 Grow Your Own Hydroponics 3617 Saint John Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64123 816-241-2122 Green Circle Hydroponics 12 East Missouri, Kansas City, MO 64106 816-421-1840

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Heartland Hydroponics 5695 E. Clark Lane, Suite L, Columbia, MO 65202 573-474-GROW (4769)

HYDROGARDENS

Let It Grow 725 Broadway, Cape Girardeau, MO 63701 573-450-5075 U-Grow 1724 North, 13th Street, St. Louis, MO 63106 314-452-6368 Wormâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Way Missouri 1225 North Warson Road, St. Louis, MO 63132 800-285-9676

NEBRASKA Advanced Hydro-Ponics 10711 Mockingbird Drive, Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q) 402-991-6630 Paradigm Gardens 8949 J Street, Suite 5, Omaha, NE 68127 402-339-4949 Patio-Ponics 3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4 Lincoln, NE 68504 402-466-9218

NEVADA AAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter 2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21, Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-450-4769 Advanced Gardens Hydroponics 3111 South Valley View, Suite V103 Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-257-4769 All American Hydroponics 2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8, Las Vegas, NV 89120 702-894-9888 Anything Grows 190 West Moana Lane, Reno, NV 89509 775-828-1460 Carson Valley Hydroponics 2520 Empire Ranch Road, Carson City, NV 89701 775-884-4769 Lorraine Ink 290 Spear Court, Fernley, NV 89408 775-575-7757 Nevada Hydroponics 4700 B Maryland, Suite 1, Las Vegas, NV 89119 702-798-2852

NEW HAMPSHIRE Hydro World 17 White Birch Lane, Lincoln, NH 03251 603-745-3030

NEW JERSEY 77HYDRO 37 Fairfield Place, West Caldwell, NJ 07006 877-774-9376

Claraqua 4 Redwood Court, West Windsor, NJ 08550

NEW MEXICO AHL Garden Supply 1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 505-255-3677 Common Shaman 1319 San Mateo N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87110 505-255-6463

NEW YORK California Hydroponics 27 Corporate Circle, East Syracuse, NY 13057 315-432-9387 East Coast Hydroponics 14649 Horace Harding Exp, Flushing, NY 11367 718-762-8880 Environmental Gardens 8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310 Peekskills, NY 10566 800-254-0507; 914-736-6676 FutureGarden Inc. 59 Central Avenue, Farmingdale, NY 11735 516-420-0884 Greentree Nursery 308 Elmira Road, Ithaca, NY 14850 607-272-3666 Grow Room, The 8 Bridge Street, Nyack, NY 10960 800-449-9630 Harvest Moon Hydroponics Henrietta Townline Plaza, 3047 West Henrietta Road, Rochester, NY 14623 716-865-7353 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 340 West at 59, Central Nyack, NY 10960 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 147 Fourth Street, Troy, NY 10960 Hudson Valley Hydroponics 217 Route 32 North, New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-3633 Hydro Garden Center 1069B Lyell Avenue, Rochester, NY 14606 1-800-277-1322 Hydroponics of Buffalo 1497 Hertel Avenue, Buffalo, NY 14216 716-838-3545 Hydroponics Shops of America 2606 Erie Boulevard, Syracuse, NY 13224 315-251-2516 Indoor Outdoor Gardener 8223 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11209 718-836-2402 KG Garden Supply 1327 Floyd Avenue, Rome, NY 13440 1-877-KG-HYDRO

Saratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply 19 Front Street, Ballston Spa, NY 12020 518-885-2005; 800-850-4769 Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics 2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13, Niagara Falls, NY 14304 888-GROWBOX

CropKing 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4303

OKLAHOMA

Dayton Hydroponics 3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449 937-859-3999

NORTH CAROLINA

Garden Indoors of Ohio 4720 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 800-833-6868

Tulsa County Hydro-Organics 1928 W. Albany, Broken Arrow, OK 74012 918-259-HYDRO

Asheville Agricultural Systems 45 Banks Avenue, Asheville, NC 28801 828-253-4112 Be Well Hydroponics & Urban Gardening 4732 Monroe Road, Charlotte, NC 28205 704-344-8010 BWGS East 4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400 Charlotte, NC 28214 800 316 1306 Carolina Hydrogardens 4823 Meadow Drive, Durham, NC 27713 919-544-4300 Fifth Season Gardening Company 1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue, Greensboro, NC 27408 336-271-3373 Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center 4521 Cumberland Road, Fayetteville, NC 28306 910-423-FLOW (3569) Garden Works, The 5619-A Hillsborough Street, Raleigh, NC 27606 919-852-4747 New Age Gardens 2236A US Highway 70, Swannanoa, NC 28778 828-299-9989 Progressive Gardens 6005 Oleander Drive, Wilmington, NC 28403 910-395-1156 Urban Organics and Hydroponics 4604 W. Market Street, Suite 106, Greensboro, NC 27407 336-316-0604 Water’s Edge Hydro-Gardens & Organics 107 South White Street, Wake Forest, NC 27587 919-562-5343

OHIO Advanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center 5204 Darrow Road, Hudson, OH 44236 234-380-1287 Akron Garden Center 1749 South Main Street, Akron, OH 44319 330-724-2700 Blooming Gardens 1805 Elm Road, Warren, OH 44483 330-372-1039 Carefree Garden Center 5050 Greenwich Road, Seville, OH 44273 330-769-2002 Cleveland Garden Center Inc. 727 East 185th Street, Cleveland, OH 44119 216-481-7868

Harvest Moon 9215 Market Street, Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452 800-776-8399 Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Wizard, The 5700 Denison Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44102 216-961-2500 Herb-N-Garden Center 14901 Puritas Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44135 216-252-2001 Indoor Garden Worx 906 Blue Avenue, Zanesville, OH 43701 866-900-9679 Indoor Gardens 1222 Hill Road, North, Pickerington, OH 43147 614-866-6065 Kissed by the Sun Hydroponic 10740 Reading Road, Cincinnati, OH 45241 513-769-0159 Magic Home Gardens 209 Cemetery Road, Canal Winchester, OH 43110 614-837-2440 Magic Home Garden 4538 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 614-263-2440 Summit Hydroponics 1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114 330-753-5222 Sweet Greens 5540 Brecksville Road Independence, OH 44131 800-421-7084 Super Harvest 5956 A Colerain Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45239 513-385-5999 Toledo Hydroponics Ltd. 855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2 Toledo, OH 43615 1-877-893-0716 Trinity Hydro Organics 435 Woodman Drive Riverside, OH 45431 937-252-GROW Worm’s Way - Greater Cincinatti / N. Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Road (Route 236), Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088

AAAAHA! Hydroponics Unlimited P.O. Box 74, Oakhurst, OK 74050

Urban Garden 3141 E. 15th Street, Tulsa, OK 74104 918-289-0018

OREGON American Agriculture 9220 Southeast Stark Street, Portland, OR 97216 800-433-6805 Anthony’s Garden & Light Supply 93779 B Troy Lane, Coos Bay, OR 97420 541-266-8822 Aqua Serene 2836 W. 11, Eugene, OR 97402 541-485-2171 Aqua Serene Hydro Gardens 1090 Benson Way, Ashland, OR 97520 541-482-7600 Basin Indoor Gardening 1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601 541-273-2023 B.I.G.S. 155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401, Bend, OR 97702 541-385-5222 BIGS Warehouse 2606 SW 4th Street, Unit B Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-8886 Cascade Horticulture 39570 Pioneer Boulevard, Sandy, OR 97055 503-668-8242 Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics 5490 Philomath Road, Corvallis, OR 97333 541-738-2820 Everybody’s Garden Center 2701 SE 14th Avenue, Portland, OR 97202 503-231-1582 Garden Spout, The 4532 South East 63rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97206 503-788-4769 Gorge Garden Center 1203 12th Street Suite H, Hood River, OR 97031 541-386-GROW Gorilla Garden Supply 1810 Virginia Avenue, North Bend, OR 97459 541-756-5005

Garden Supplies

Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply 2021 West Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-779-8600 Grodan Inc. Box 1836, Jacksonville, OR 97530 541-646-8245

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Grow America Garden Supply LLC 11511 SW Pacific Highway, Tigard, OR 97223 503-841-6868 Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics) 817 W. 2nd Street, Medford, OR 97501 Herb N’ Jungle Hydroponics 930 SE Textron Drive, Bend, OR 97702 541-382-4010 Homegrown Garden Supply 7112 NE Gilsan Street, Portland, OR 97213 877-EZ2-GROW Indoor Garden Center 1697 SE 25th Street, Salem, OR 97302 503-566-7888 Indoor Garden Depot 15828 SE McLoughlin Boulevard, Milwaukie, OR 97267 503-786-2445 Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center 909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217 503-546-3185 J-N-B Hydro 2 Go 155 West Central Avenue, Sutherlin, OR 97479 541-459-9211 Ladybug Indoor Gardens 3960 W. Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-618-4459 Lights Distributing 9843 SW 55th Avenue, Portland, OR 97219 Liquid Sun 1845 Southwest Highway 101, Lincoln City, OR 97367 541-994-7070 Northern Light and Garden Beaverton 9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005 503-297-7331 Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass 1203 Rogue River Highway, Grants Pass, OR 97527 541-474-1700 Northern Light and Garden Salem 1915 Lancester Drive, Salem, OR 97305 503-364-4769 Oregon Rainforest Co. 19949 E. Burnside Street, Gresham, OR 97233 503-465-9909 Paradise Supply Inc. 1409 N. Highway 99, Ashland, OR 97520 541-552-1037 Rain or Shine 13126 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230 503-255-1981 Roots Garden Supply 5426 North Gay Avenue, Portland, OR 97217 503-285-4768 Roseburg Hydroponics 853 SE Stephens Street, Roseburg, OR 97470 541-229-1420

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SunInside Gardening Co. 665 Conger, Unit F, Eugene, OR 97402 541-686-9966 Urban Flora 3029 Division Street, Portland, OR 97214 503-236-3344 Wizard's Garden, LLC 621 Spruce Street, Unit C, Myrtle Point, OR 97458 541-572-2333

PENNSYLVANIA Full Bloom Hydroponics 84 South 24th Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15203 888-872-3602 Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania 208 Route 13, Bristol, PA 19007 800-227-4567 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 1239 South Airport Road, Allentown, PA 18103 610-432-4949 Healthy Gardens and Supply 1012 Lincoln Avenue, Prospect Park, PA 19076 866-32-HYDRO High Tech Garden Supply 20232 Route 19, Unit 6, Cranberry Twp., PA 16066 724-473-1113 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 2008 Smallman Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15222 412-232-7030 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 830 Route 119, Greensburg, PA 15601 724-836-1118

SOUTH CAROLINA 247 Garden Supply 535 D Clemson Road, Columbia, SC 29229 803-788-4445 All Good Hydroponics & Gardening 6729 Two Notch Road, Columbia, SC 29223 803-708-4819 GreenSpirit Hydrogarden 184 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29407 843-225-1GRO; Green Thumb Unique Gardening & More 1230 Rutherford Road, Greenville, SC 29609 864-271-8830

TENNESSEE Advanced Hydroponic Garden 783 French Mill Road, Dandridge, TN 37725 800-521-1643 Advanced Hydroponic Garden 6912 Clinton Highway, Knoxville, TN 37921 866-938-3318

All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co. 924 8th Avenue, South, Nashville, TN 37203 800-790-2188 Atlantis Hydroponics 1800 Rossville Avenue, #3, Chattanooga, TN 37408 423-752-5400 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 126 Belinda Parkway, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122 888-265-9005 Perpetual Harvest 75 Riverport Drive, Jackson, TN 38301 877-422-3391 Sun City Hydroponics 2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104, Memphis, TN 38133 901-372-8100 Worm’s Way Tennessee 707 Rivergate Parkway, Suite E Goodlettsville, TN 37072 800-397-4153 TEXAS Airline Hydroponics P.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363, Houston, TX 77098 713-942-0484 Botani Hydroponics & Organics 7730 Highway 6 South Houston, TX 77083 281-575-1999 Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics 4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310, Austin, TX 78745 512-444-2100 Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies 5302 Slide Road Unit B, Lubbock, TX 79414 806-793-2901 GroGreen Hydroponics 4015 Main Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-370-9984 Houston Discount Hydroponics 9384 Richmond Avenue, Houston, TX 77063 713-464-9406 Hydro Mart 3841 Main Street, Rowlett, TX 75088 972-475-6114 Innergrow Hydroponics 24451 Interstate Highway 20, Wills Point, TX 75169 866-475-4769 Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies) 13628 Neutron Road, Dallas, TX 75244 (866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555 Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics 1302 Motor Circle, Dallas, TX 75207 214-634-9376 Sol Organics & Hydroponics 1634 Babcock Road, San Antonio, TX 78229 210-366-9082

Texas Growers Supply 5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602, Humble, TX 77396 281-441-3739

Eco Enterprises 1240 NE 175th Street, #B Shoreline, WA 98155 800-426-6937

River City Hydroponics 1514 East Francis Avenue, Spokane, WA 99208 509-464-0246

Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin) 5126 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756 512-459-4769

Garden Smart 500 Bond Drive, Castlerock, WA 98611 360-274-7960

Solar Shop 306 West 4th Street, Tonasket, WA 98855 509-486-4508

Green Gardens Distributing 12738 Bel-Red Road, Bellevue, WA 98005 425-454-5731

Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply 4823 East Sprague Avenue E., Spokane Valley, WA 99212 509-534-4055

Hydro-Tech 2121 Aurora Avenue, North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-2202

WISCONSIN

Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin) 2125-A Goodrich Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-440-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas) 3400 Elm Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-744-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston) 7730 A Park Place Boulevard, Houston, TX 77087 713-641-4769 Ultimate Hydroponics 6125 West Sam Houston Parkway, North Suite 206 Houston, TX 77042 713-856-8425

UTAH Salt Lake Plant & Hydro 60 West 3300 S. #6, South Salt Lake, UT 84115 801-488-3200

VERMONT Green Thumb Gardening P.O. Box 235, Route 15, Underhill, VT 5489 800-564-9376 Greenthumb - Vermont 394 Route 15, Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323

VIRGINIA Blue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co. 5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11 Roanoke VA 24012 540-265-2483 Clean & Green Technologies 196 Corning Drive, Christiansburg, VA 24073 866-694-1628 Hydroponics & Growlights 13400 Occoquan Road, Woodbridge, VA 22191 703-490-0700 I Love Hydroponics 612 N. Sheppard Street, Richmond, VA 23221 804-377-3020 I Love Hydroponics 368 Newtown Road, #105, Virginia Beach, VA 23462 757-490-5425 Inside-Out Garden Supply 6517 Backlick Road, Springfield, VA 22150 703-451-3259

Indoor Garden Depo 6305 NE Highway 99, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Indoor Garden & Lighting 3839 6th Avenue, Tacoma, WA 98406 253-761-7478 Indoor Garden & Lighting 23303 Highway 99, Suite A, Edmonds, WA 98026 425-673-2755 Indoor Garden & Lighting 714 South Central Avenue, Kent, WA 98032 253-373-9060 Kent Garden Supplies Ltd. 18817 East Valley Highway, Kent, WA 98032 425-251-9299 Linda’s Gardening & Hydroponics 11522 Canyon Road East, Puyallup, WA 98373 253-531-9641 Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics 5087 Lincoln Road, Blaine, WA 98230 M & R Lighting 17238 Memorial Drive, Mt. Vernon, WA 98273 360-848-1080 M & R Lighting Unit C 22914 Highway 410, Buckley, WA 98390 253-891-4190 National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply 5408 NE 88th Street, Building A, Vancouver, WA 98665 888-478-6544 Northern Light and Garden Vancouver 6305 NE Highway 99, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Northern Lights Gardening 4159 Hannegan Road, Bellingham, WA 98225 360-715-8585

WASHINGTON

Northwest Horticulture Supply 161 Hooker Road, #1, Sequim, WA 98057 360-582-0702

Aqua Serene 3839 Stone Way North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-GROW

Renton Indoor Garden Center 207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A, Renton, WA 98055 425-917-9000

Aric's Indoor Garden Supply 1104 West Wisconsin Avenue, Appleton, WI 54914 920-574-3258 Brew and Grow 285 N. Janacek Road, Brookfield, WI 53045 262-789-0555 Brew and Grow 3317 Agriculture Drive, Madison, WI 53716 608-226-8910 Grow BIG Hydroponics 954 S. Westland, Appleton, WI 54914 920-749-4769 Paradigm Gardens 4539 Helgesen Drive, Madison, WI 53718 608-241-3800 PUERTO RICO Tecno-Hydro Ave Campo Rico GJ17, Carolina, PR 00982 787-752-8252

WE THANK ALL OF OUR DEDICATED RETAILERS FOR OFFERING MAXIMUM YIELD TO THEIR CUSTOMERS. ARE YOU CURRENTLY DISTRIBUTING MAXIMUM YIELD FROM YOUR RETAIL STORE? If so, pass along your contact information to us here at the magazine care of linda@ maximumyield.com and we will add your store’s name, address and telephone number to our distributor listing in an upcoming issue. Add your company logo to the distributor listings! Call 250-729-2677 or Email keri@maximumyield.com MAXIMUM YIELD USA - July 2009

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COMING UP IN august

FEATURES

Come Clone with Us Kevin Dunlop demonstrates how to reproduce plants in order to make healthy, vibrant clones using a substrate. Lighting Basics Bob Taylor describes the various artificial lighting options available to indoor growers and how to make the best selection. In Search of the Green Thumb Glory Lennon discusses simple steps to help those of us challenged in the green thumb area, acquire a deeper shade of green with hydroponic gardening. What is pH? Part II In Tips and Tricks, the experts at Grodan further discuss monitoring pH in the slab, tips for accurate pH measuring and ammonium’s role as it relates to pH. The Gardens of the Parc de la Villette Lee McCall takes us on a walk through 35 acres of lawns and gardens at the Parc de la Villette in Paris, featuring hydroponic crops. Growing Summer Saffron Indoors Dr. Lynette Morgan examines saffron, a spice derived from the dried stigma of the saffron crocus flower, as an indoor hydroponic crop.

www.maximumyield.com Your Best Advice Are you curious to know what successful techniques your indoor gardening comrades are utilizing in their growing ventures? Well now you can in our new column “Your Best Advice,” brought to you by Maximum Yield readers. That’s right! You are the author of our brand-new column.Your advice could be featured in an upcoming issue of Maximum Yield. Send your techniques to editor@maximumyield.com Visit indoorgardenexpo.com for all of the latest updates of the 2009 Indoor Gardening Expo tour. Plan to attend.

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