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Indoor gardenING expo indoorgardeningexpo.com

long beach california, usa

october 16-17

FEATURES 46

CONTENTS September 2010

If you Can’t Stand the Heat... Growing Indoor Plants Using LED Lighting by Brian Chiang & Josh Puckett

108

Chelated Micronutrients

Phythium or Algae: Have you Been Misdiagnosed?

Unplugged: The Modernized Gericke System

Harvesting Your Summer Vegetables

GMO Vs. Selective Breeding

Top 25 Hydroponic FAQs

by Donald Lester

by Paul Foster

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

by Clair Schwan

by Michael Bloch

by Trevor Holt

108

Fungi’s Role in the Ecosystem

118

How Do Hydroponic Systems Work? - Part 2

132

Novel Small Scale Hydroponic Methods

144

Small Spaces, Big Yields Bloom - Part 2

160

Plant Propagation: Discovering Rooting Hormones

by Luis Bartolo

by J. Benton Jones Jr.

by Philip McIntosh

by Lee McCall

by Matt LeBannister

DEPARTMENTS 10 12 14 18 20 34

From the Editor Letters to the Editor MaximumYield.com Simon Says MAX Facts Product Spotlight

90 104 128 130 142 154

Beginner’s Corner Green Thumb Gardening Avant-Gardening You Tell Us Growing for Health

158 168 172 173 174

Talking Shop Max Mart Coming up in October Do You Know? Distributors

Tips & Tricks

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

FROM THE editor

jessica raymond

It has been a busy summer and those that had hoped to be relaxing at the beach, have been busy doing what they like best—growing! The overwhelming attendance at the recent San Francisco Expo this past month was proof that the thirst for knowledge on growing technologies and products is over the top. With over 200 booths of leading manufacturers showcasing product, attendees had their fill of the best the world has to offer in growing. This issue of Maximum Yield showcases some of those products and continues to educate you on growing to your best potential! From harvesting your summer vegetables, choosing your hydroponic system and understanding rooting hormones and algae, you will have a full read of some of the top issues facing gardeners today. Got questions? Got grow tips? We want to hear it all, so send your letters to editor@maximumyield.com and you could have your letter published in Maximum Yield. Want more? We have it for you this October 16-17, 2010 at the Maximum Yield Long Beach, CA Indoor Gardening Expo with over 200 booths touting the latest innovations and earth friendly grow gear, seminars, an education stage, networking and more. We welcome you to attend on Sunday, October 17 – general public day. No registration is necessary. For more information, a list of exhibitors and directions to the venue visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com. Make your plans to attend today; we know you are going to love it!

Jessica Raymond, Editor

contributors Brian Chiang has worked for

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.

Donald Lester is the plant

Dr. J. Benton Jones Jr. has 50 years of experience growing plants hydroponically. He is an Emeritus Professor at the University of Georgia, Athens and has authored eight books and written articles for magazines that deal with hydroponic issues. He currently has his own consulting company, Grosystems, Inc. Dr. Jones currently lives in Anderson, SC, USA.

Lee McCall graduated from Johnson and Wales University with a concentration in Culinary Arts. Culinary school opened the door to research and work with hydroponics and organic production. Currently, Lee attends business school in Denver and focuses on continuing advancements with Maximum Yield and indoor gardening technology.

Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the president of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., a global leader in the production of hydroponic organic fertilizers and soil mixtures. He is passionate about the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life.

Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.

Philip McIntosh is a science and

Josh Puckett earned his bachelor’s

Michael Bloch is the owner and editor of GreenLivingTips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy. The site offers a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment-related news to help consumers and businesses reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact.

Trevor Holt is the owner of Sydneybased Hydro Masta Pty Ltd. He has over 20 years of experience in the hydroponics industry. Their website (www.hydromasta.com.au) contains a full library of hydroponic help tips and ideas, plus their online store of over 800 quality products. Email sales@ hydromasta.com.au

Paul Foster was born and raised in Calgary, Alberta, where he currently resides. He has been involved in hydroponics for the past 15 years as a commercial grower. Paul is mostly self-taught, having developed systems from scratch that were unique to his growing situation. This independent method taught him an immense amount about hydroponic growing.

DiCon Fiberoptics, Inc., an advanced technology company based in California, for the last 13 years. Brian received his bachelor’s degree in physics from UC Berkeley and master’s degree in physics from UC Davis. He is currently the managing director for Kessil Lighting, a DiCon business division.

editor@maximumyield.com

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information.

technology writer with a bachelor’s degree in botany and chemistry and a master’s degree in biological science. During his graduate research he used hydroponic techniques to grow axenic plants. He lives in Colorado Springs, CO. where he teaches mathematics at Challenger Middle School.

products manager at JH Biotech, Inc., a California based agricultural technology company with 27 OMRI certified products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with an emphasis in entomology. He is an agricultural scientist with over 10 years of research experience and 50 scientific publications to his credit.

degree in biology with an emphasis on plant biology from Sonoma State University. He currently works at the UC Davis Foundation Plant Services. He has years of experience in the horticulture and agriculture industries. He also serves as an advisor for the Kessil Research team.

LETTERS TO the editor

Lifelong Learning

One-Stop Information Station I am from Craven Farms in Snohomish, Washington and have attended your Indoor Gardening Expos in the past. Our farm benefitted very much from the information we gathered at your show. I hope the San Francisco Expo this year was successful and wish you well at your event in Long Beach. Unfortunately, it is too far away for me to attend. Our farm has a pumpkin patch and berry farm and we grow squash, corn, tomatoes and more using organics and hydroponics. We are planning to open a store to educate the local farmers that are left on how to use their land more efficiently and effectively. The Indoor Gardening Expos not only changed my life but also changed the way I run my farm. I took what I learned—which was a ton—slowly started applying it and now our farm is making money, which is difficult in these trying times. Thank you very much for all you do and thanks for listening. Brian Thelen Snohomish, Washington

Rave Reviews via E-Mail I love Maximum Yield. How do I get back issues of your magazine? I'm going to subscribe by the end of next week, but I would like hard copies of February and March 2010 so I can read the first two parts in the Erik Biksa LED article series. They are of interest me.

Chris Greene via E-Mail I just wanted to thank you guys for a great magazine. I very much enjoy picking it up at my local shop and reading it from cover to cover. Very good information presented.

Thanks again Josh

Back issues of Maximum Yield are available online at maximumyield.com. From there you can also subscribe and receive your own personal copy every month.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Dear Maximum Yield, I am sending this e-mail to let you know how much I enjoy your magazine and website. They are both awesome! I am a horticulturist (class of 06/Olds College, School of Horticulture) and have always enjoyed growing. It started when I was a small child. I would help my father plant and maintain the vegetable garden and do the same with my mother and her flowerbeds. I became interested in soilless/hydroponic gardening about 10 years ago and have had many trials and tribulations but am fairly successful for the most part now. A few years ago I connected with my local indoor gardening center and began to learn more. It was there that I was also introduced to your monthly magazine and was very impressed. The articles are extremely valuable to me. I really enjoy the depths at which your authors discuss every topic. I have learned so much from the articles and particularly admire the fact that there are actual articles and not just a book full of advertisements. I find it hard to keep up with the hydroponic world as it is constantly changing. Having said that your magazine and website sure make it easier. I hope that Maximum Yield prospers for many years to come. Keep up the good work. I look forward to the new issues to come. Thanks. Respectfully, Trevor J. Svingen (Grow Guy) Horticulturist Production Horticulture/Greenhouse Mgmt.

Good Times via Facebook Y'all hooked it up! The expo in San Francisco this year was fantastic. Thanks for putting together such a great show. I learned so much from the representatives and look forward to putting all the freebies to the test. I can't wait for next year.

Larissa Langersmith

Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

We want to hear from you! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com

Coming up on the Web

Expert Advice Connect with Maximum Yield’s new resident expert Simon hart by clicking on the Simon Says button on maximumyield.com. Submit your growing questions instantly and watch for his reply in the upcoming Simon Says column.

Fungi and the Ecosystem Fungi in our ecosystem called mycorrhiza assist the natural processes of life and decay, transforming base materials into sustainable food.

Chelated Micronutrients Chelated micronutrients are becoming popular because of their high efficiency. Knowing a bit about the various types of chelated micronutrients can help you choose the one that is right for you.

The Modernized Gericke System Hydroponics is more high-tech than ever but it pays to look back into history and revisit old ideas, like the Gericke system, which offer us creative growing options.

Upcoming Events Maximum Yield welcomes you to the Long Beach, CA (USA) Indoor Gardening Expo on the Pacific coast, October 16-17, 2010. This event will feature exhibitors from around the world showcasing the latest indoor gardening products and technologies. Visit indoorgardenexpo.com for full event details.

www.maximumyield.com www.facebook.com/MaximumYield www.indoorgardeningexpo.com

Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you. 14

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

G A R D E N I N G

VOLUME 11 – NUMBER 6 September 2010 Maximum Yield is published monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092 Printed In Canada.

PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Gaby Morin - gaby@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com

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SIMON says

Hi Simon, I want to use the water from my rain barrel to water my indoor plants. Currently the rain barrel has a screen over it. What can I do to get rid of any negative substances or organisms in the water, in addition to the screen, before using the water inside? Maximum Yield is doing great work. The articles are educational and inspiring. I've learned a lot from this magazine. Keep it up. Hue Captured rainwater is a valuable asset for gardeners. Although most people use that water outside, it’s a great idea to use it in your indoor space. For an indoor garden, rainwater presents some problems that an outdoor gardener may not consider. Be mindful of algae and mineralization (such as zinc coating for moss reduction on roofing), which can come off roofing materials. In addition, microbes will invariably follow the water down the gutters and into your catchment area. A screen does a great job of filtering debris but won’t help with algae or microbes. Sterilizing the water is good idea given the lack of biological diversity found in indoor gardens and the speed at which pathogens can spread. The use of an oxidizer such as hydrogen peroxide or ozone is the easiest and most cost effective way to purify your water.You can also pump it through a reverse osmosis machine, which will last a long time between filter changes due to the relative purity of rainwater. Considering the purity of the water, you should also consider using it to inoculate your garden media with beneficial microbes. Consider using it for your own aerated compost tea or commercially available beneficial microbes. Good luck in the garden.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

A Mini Living Garden ______________________ Postcarden is the innovative company that has designed postcards, similar to the greeting cards with a seed implanted, that grow into a lush garden in an adorable diorama after opened. After setting up the garden and adding water, seeds usually sprout within three days. The plant, a grassy herb-like fauna, will last approximately two to three weeks and requires minimal sunlight and care, making it an easily cultivated novelty for anyone without a green thumb. Postcarden’s cards are now available in America. (Source: www.good.is)

Fresh New Ideas in Urban Economic Growth A sustainable eco village known as Gardens Under Glass is being built in the heart of downtown Cleveland. It will be located at the Galleria at Erieview, a once two story retail center turned mixed-use property built in 1987. Its structural design provides a year round controlled environment, perfect for the glasshouse gardens. At the project’s root is an urban farm that will use a re-circulating greenhouse hydroponics system to grow tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, herbs, peppers, sprouts, mushrooms and flowers. In addition to the hydroponic growing units, there will also be alternative growing systems represented serving to demonstrate the benefits of composting food court waste. The facility will also serve as an educational center to inform the public on the importance of urban gardening and harnessing alternative natural energy resources including solar, wind and rainwater. (Source: http://web.me.com/gardensunderglass)

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

AgraQuest Issues a Call to Action on Biopesticides _________________________ AgraQuest CEO Marcus Meadows-Smith met with federal legislators and other key influencers to U.S. agriculture and food production to discuss “Biopesticides in the Green Ag Revolution.” He highlighted the need for legislative support to expand the adoption of biopesticides in mainstream food production. “We sit at the convergence of demands–a growing population which must be fed, consumers who want diverse, healthy foods with low residue at affordable prices and the need to protect and improve the environment. This means a new sustainable, Green Ag approach is needed,” said Meadows-Smith. “We believe the best approach balances the use of innovative and effective biopesticides with the use of the best conventional pesticides. At AgraQuest, we refer to this approach as ‘low chem’ agriculture.” AgraQuest was invited to participate in upcoming discussions with key influencers to make further advancements along the green ag theme. For more details on the Green Agriculture Revolution visit http://sustainability.agraquest.com, www.agraquest.com or call 1-530-750-0150.

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Lease a Tree: Community Supported Fruit from Local Farms _____________________ Some orchard owners are finding a better way of offering fresh fruit to consumers for a fair price. For about $50 to $100 you can lease a fruit tree. The orchard owners take care of the tree throughout the summer and in the fall, when the tree is heavyladen with fruit, you venture out and pick as much as you like from your tree. Some orchards also offer delivery service if you can’t make it out to your tree. This is a great (and cheap) way to get enough sustainable, local fruit to last you all winter. And it works out well for the farmer too. Many orchards lease about a third of their trees, leaving a third for pick your own customers, and a third for wholesale and other markets. Leasing a tree ensures that at least a third of the harvest will be sold at a steady price. The system also negates any of the costly picking and cleaning activities that would normally prepare apples for the market. Leasing a tree creates a closer connection between people and their produce through harvest. Such a model would bring folks once step closer to the source of their food. (Source: www.justmeans.com)

Luteolin Stars in Study of Healthful Plant Compounds __________________ Natural compounds in plants may protect us against unwanted inflammation. Certain kinds of inflammation can increase risk of cancer and some other disorders, including heart disease and insulin resistance. On-going studies built upon earlier research suggest luteolin, quercetin, chrysin, eriodicytol, hesperetin and naringenin act as anti-inflammatory agents. All six plant compounds target an enzyme known as “TBK1.” Each compound inhibits, to a greater or lesser extent, TBK1’s ability to activate a specific biochemical signal. If unimpeded, the signal would lead to formation of gene products known to trigger inflammation. Of the six compounds, luteolin was the most effective inhibitor of TBK1. Luteolin is already known to have anti-inflammatory properties. The approaches that the researchers developed to uncover these compounds’ effects can be used by scientists elsewhere to identify additional anti-inflammatory compounds present in fruits and vegetables. (Source: www.ars.usda.gov)

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Study Shows How Organic Labels Trick Kansas City Pioneers People Into Eating More _________________ New Models for A new study confirms that consumers think products with Urban Farms ______ organic labels are healthier and less fattening. The study was done with organic Oreos. 114 students were asked to read the labels of both conventional Oreos, and the ones made with organic sugar and flour. Then they were asked which they could eat more of. Most thought that the organic Oreos had fewer calories and that they could eat more of them. In another test, 215 college students read a story about a character who wanted to lose weight, but wanted to skip her usual after-dinner run. Participants read she had eaten either an organic or regular non-organic dessert. Then they rated whether it was okay for her to skip the run. The participants were more lenient toward the character if she had eaten the organic dessert instead of the conventional one. So, a product with just as many calories, and just as much fat from a whole lot of palm oil are perceived to be healthier to the point that you can skip your after dinner run. (Source: www.treehugger.com)

The New Roots for Refugees Farm in Northeast Kansas City is part community farm and part Farm Business Development Program. The business program acts as an incubator farm for 14 women, mostly from Africa and Asia. Once accepted into the program—and after at least one year with a community garden plot—the farmers receive a quarter-acre plot. For the first year, everything is paid for, including seeds, tools, water and marketing. In the winter, the farmers take courses in planning, production, marketing and farming and market-oriented English instruction. In their second and third years, they begin paying for things like seeds, marketing and tools. The women dress elegantly and proud in vibrant dresses and evening shoes. Their produce is immaculate and some exotic, native to their homelands but able to be cultivated here. The hope is that after three years, the farmers can take the annual $200 of their sales they’ve been saving and start their own independent farm on a vacant lot within the neighborhood. The farms offer an invaluable monetary supplement, as well as filling the fridge and satisfying that essential human hunger for productivity and worthiness. (Source: www.grist.org)

A Woman’s Touch __________________________________________ When you’re trying to protect an entire planet, it seems pretty silly to leave half of its human inhabitants out of the discussion, but that’s exactly what’s happening to women in many parts of the world, according to a recent report on the Inter Press Service (IPS) news wire. Local projects in Afghanistan and Honduras, however, show what can be accomplished when women are allowed to take the lead on environmental issues. The IPS reported that “women provide up to 90 per cent of the rural poor’s food and produce up to 80 per cent of food in most developing countries, and yet they are almost completely ignored when policy decisions are made about agriculture and biodiversity.” According to figures from the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization, the IPS added, women in developing countries collect 80 per cent of the wild edibles and save up to 90 per cent of the seeds used in small-scale agriculture. The U.N. hopes to tap this knowledge with a strategic plan for the Convention on Biological Diversity that will “ask countries to ensure women are involved in decisions regarding biodiversity—including agriculture.” (Source: www.treehugger.com)

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Low-Maintenance Strawberry May Be Good Crop to Grow in Space __________________ Astronauts could one day tend their own crops on long space missions, and Purdue University researchers have found a healthy candidate to help satisfy a sweet tooth—a strawberry that requires little maintenance and energy. Several cultivars of strawberries were tested and one variety, named Seascape, met the requirements for becoming a space crop. The Seascape strawberry meets several guidelines set by NASA. Strawberry plants are relatively small, meeting mass and volume restrictions. Since Seascape provides fewer, but larger, berries under short days, there is less labor required of crew members who would have to pollinate and harvest the plants by hand. Needing less light cuts down energy requirements. Seascape also steadily supplied fruit throughout the test period. The plants kept producing fruit for about six months after starting to flower. Researchers next plan to test Seascape strawberries using LED lighting, hydroponics and different temperature ranges. (Source: www.sciencedaily.com)

“The Vertical Farm,” the Movie by Sting ____ Since 1989, Sting has been involved in protecting the Amazon through the Rainforest Foundation and supports sustainable food initiatives, and now he’s putting a camera where his mouth is. The performer is producing a film about vertical farming, starting with documenting the first one to be planted in the U.S. Sting and his partner in the project, manager Kathryn Shenker, have purchased the film rights to “The Vertical Farm: Feeding Ourselves and the World in the 21st Century.” The idea lays out a system of farming in which food is grown within tall city buildings as an efficient means of land use and a way to get fresh food to local residents. Sting’s film will document the first vertical farm to be constructed in a major U.S. city. This might be in Newark, New Jersey. The city fathers have discussed moving forward with the plan if the city donates a proposed site on a quiet block overlooking the Passaic River in Brick City. (Source: www.treehugger.com)

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Working Towards a Greener Future _______ Trees4Good is a Malaysian Borneo-based developer of bio-crops that assists developing countries in achieving economic growth while protecting vulnerable natural resources. Working with Trees4Good is The Greenhouse Effect, a UK-based hydroponics retail store operating since 2001. The Greenhouse Effect has designed and built large hydroponic nurseries in Borneo to propagate and bring trees for planting in an effort to re-plant the logged areas of Borneo. Deforestation can be avoided either by paying directly for forest preservation, or by using offset funds to provide substitutes for forest-based products with social economic benefits. Trees4Good is Malaysia’s leading supplier of hydroponically propagated seedlings producing over 100,000 seedlings per month. Their managed farms produce quality seeds for local and international Jatropha growers. Investor opportunities are available to fund an ethical and socially responsible business that is genuinely green and which provides attractive returns. For more information: www.thegreenhouseffect.co.uk www.trees4good.com

Nutrient Retention of Safer Salads Explored Irradiating salad leaves after washing reduces harmful and non-harmful micro-organisms. Scientists have looked into the effect of various levels of irradiation on concentrations of four vitamins and four carotenoids in two popular babyleaf spinach cultivars. For the study, two spinach cultivars were grown, harvested, sanitized and packaged according to industry practices. Each cultivar was packaged in both air or nitrogen gas to extend shelf life. The cultivars then were exposed to up to 2.0 kiloGrays (kGy) of radiation in 0.5 kGy increments. Following irradiation the four nutrients—folate, E, K and neoxanthin—exhibited little or no change in concentration with increasing levels of irradiation. Levels of lutein/zeaxanthin, and B-carotene were reduced on average by 12 per cent at the 2.0 kGy level, which is within the range of natural variation. In addition, irradiation decreased ascorbic acid levels by 42 per cent, mainly due to irradiation converting vitamin C to an oxidized form called dehydroascorbic acid. (Source: www.ars.usda.gov) MY

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

PRODUCT spotlight

See it. Want it. Find it at your local indoor gardening store. House & Garden Hydro A&B Base Nutrients _______________ House & Garden Hydro A&B base nutrients are an absolute must-have for all gardeners. The smart composition of the various elements ensures optimal nourishment of plants in the grow and the flowering period. Hydro A&B nutrients are composed of liquid main and trace elements, including Eddha-Fe (iron) and contain no bulking agents. This enables the plant to absorb the nutrients fast and effectively. House & Garden Hydro A&B nutrients are used for recirculating or run-to-waste systems using perlite, rockwool, clay balls and various other substrates. Ask for these products at your local hydro store.

Biobizz Starters Pack _____________________________ Are you a person with strong organic beliefs? Do you choose quality above quantity? Do you wish to grow green but don’t know how? If you answered yes to these questions, Biobizz has an easy answer for you. The Biobizz Starters Pack is fully loaded with everything you need to initiate your own organic growing adventure. The rooting, growing and blooming phases will be taken care of and you will be rewarded with the most amazing harvest as a result. You don’t need to be an expert; just follow our quick and easy guide and see for yourself. For more information visit your favorite organic gardening shop.

Go Green with Elicent ___________________ Get Control of Garden Climates with Sunleaves _____________ Continental Fan is pleased to announce an improved and greener product for its renowned Elicent AXC In-Line Duct Fans. The new packaging features recycled materials and improved insulation to help reduce shipping damage. In addition, AXC Fans are now Energy Star qualified for improved efficiency while retaining the superior craftsmanship and quiet operation that has been trusted for years. Power consumption meets stringent Energy Star requirements of a minimum 2.8 cfm per watt. For more information and to view the full line of residential and commercial fan products, visit your nearest indoor gardening shop.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

If humidity and heat are turning every trip to your indoor garden into a hot and sticky situation, open the door to the new Sunleaves Portable Humidifier and Sunleaves Portable Dual-Hose Air Conditioner. This compact, highly efficient dehumidifier extracts up to 5.3 gallons of water per day from the air. Treated air also passes through an activated carbon filter and washable dust filter to reduce particulate matter and odors. The Sunleaves Portable Dual-Hose Air Conditioner is the earth-friendly way to keep indoor garden temperatures and humidity at comfortable levels for people and plants. It uses an ozone-safe refrigerant to keep air cool and dry.

PRODUCT spotlight

See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Earth Friendly Solar Halo Drip System ________________________ The grow green Solar Halo Drip System can be used indoors and outdoors to grow herbs and vegetables. The enclosed circulation pump runs on solar energy with 1.2 watts. This 3.5 gallon container contains an inner net basket that is seven inches deep and snaps on to the top of the container allowing for large root balls to grow down and sideways. There is also a nutrient solution level indicator and drain tube. Included in this kit are 16 ounces of nutrients and five pounds of hydroton. For more information visit your favorite local gardening shop.

House & Garden Foliar Spray _____________________________________ House & Garden Foliar Spray is an effective and concentrated product that provides a boost for motherplants and cuttings. It is absorbed directly by the leaves and gives plants back their dark green color and vitality. Foliar spray is a gentle plant agent and works within two days. Foliar Spray is a 100 per cent biological plant booster that protects the plant against external threats like insects and mould. Foliar spray also enhances the plants natural balance and promotes lush growth. Foliar Spray contains all main and trace elements. Visit your favorite hydro shop to learn more.

Maximum Yield USAâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; |â&#x20AC;&#x201A; September 2010

PRODUCT spotlight

See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Maximum Yields and Spectacular Flavor __________________ Soul Synthetics Bloom 1.5-4.5-3 is a synergistic blend of highly soluble synthetic fertility components enhanced with powerful organic extracts. It was designed specifically for increased yields and enhanced quality in demanding soil and hydroponic applications. Formulated from only the highest quality organic and synthetic ingredients: bat guano, alfalfa, kelp, yucca, molasses, potassium nitrate, potassium phosphate, calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate. Soul Synthetics Bloom is balanced for more of what a plant needs during its bloom stage, is user friendly and pH stable. Visit an indoor gardening store near you for more information.

Cool Tubes New from Hydrofarm __________ Hydrofarm’s new Cool Tubes offer compact and efficient light for your growing area. They feature a European aluminum interior reflector for directing light more precisely over a growing area. The multi-point hanging system allows the unit to be hung horizontally or vertically. The patented Lock and Seal 15 foot, heavy duty lamp cord allows you to conveniently plug into any Hydrofarm or Xtrasun ballast. The streamlined design allows cooling airflow to move unimpeded, keeping growing area temperatures lower and allowing you to position your lamp very close to your plants. Visit your nearest authorized Hydrofarm retail shop for more information.

GGL Illuminator Air Cooled Reflector _______ Just as the sun rises over the mountains of Humboldt County illuminating everything in sight, Global Greenhouse Lighting’s Illuminator evenly distributes light over your entire garden. Built by gardeners for gardeners. Tested in Humboldt County, the Illuminator maximizes light coverage in large grow areas. Incorporating premium components, pebbled aluminum, a socket with 15 foot cord and is compatible with HPS and MH lamps, you can’t go wrong. GGL Illuminator six inch air cooled reflector offers optimum light distribution and maximum canopy penetration. For more information visit an indoor gardening shop near you.

A Custom Product with a Quick Response ________________ Tongdy Control Technology and Intellisenc introduce the F2000IAQ-CO2 Carbon Dioxide Controller specifically designed for greenhouse applications. This unit is accurate and features a self-calibrating 0 to 2,000 ppm range NDIR CO2 sensor. An LCD display indicates CO2, humidity and temperature. An on/off output controls CO2 level and is user adjustable. Light and temperature sensors enables output during the daytime and below 113°F. All parameters are adjustable with push buttons or a DIP switch and 0 to 50,000 ppm CO2 range is available. Analog outputs and PID control are available. 120VAC powered. For more information visit your local indoor gardening retailer.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

PRODUCT spotlight

Eat Healthy for Less ____________________ Tired of all those appliances in the kitchen? Want to eat healthy with minimal effort? The Healthy Chef is a fourin-one device that makes sense of food preparation by ensuring the protection of precious enzymes in our food. The Healthy Chef operates as a dehydrator, a steamer, a rice cooker and a yogurt maker. Talk about functionality! This unit will save you time and money, without taking up counter space. Diversify your kitchen options. Healthy Chef comes with five trays, an adjustable thermometer (86 to 176°F), an automatic timer function and much more. For more information visit your nearest indoor gardening shop.

New Sunleaves Reflector Gets You Growing _____________________ The Sunleaves Sunspot 10 Plug N’ Play Reflector offers performance and great compatibility at an affordable cost. It has heavy-duty housing; enamel-coated exterior finish; specular German-made reflective interior for maximum light exposure; and a mogul socket that’s designed to maximize airflow through its 10 inch inline vent flanges. Perfectly suited for gardens with carbon dioxide enrichment, it features a hinged lens enclosure that provides a completely airtight seal. Best of all, it’s pre-wired with a fixed socket that’s compatible with the industry-standard common outlet. Ask for Sunleaves Sunspot at your local indoor gardening shop.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

PRODUCT spotlight

Frontier Flow Master ___________________ The Frontier Flow Master is a complete ebb and flow system and comes in two reservoir sizes: the FFM30 - 30 gallon reservoir and the FFM55 - 55 gallon reservoir. The controller is the same for both systems and can accommodate one to 30 grow sites. Our grow sites are interchangeable with the ebb and flow two gallon bucket in two gallon systems. Our controllers and reservoirs are interchangeable. For more information visit your favorite local gardening shop.

Controlling Your Greenhouse Has Never Been Easier __________________ The G01-CO2 Carbon Dioxide Controller from Tongdy Control Technology and Intellisenc is designed specifically for greenhouse applications. This unit is accurate and features a self-calibrating 0 to 2,000 ppm range NDIR CO2 sensor. A three color backlit LCD display indicates CO2, humidity and temperature. The display changes color based on CO2 level. An audible alarm signals when the CO2 level is greater than 1,500 ppm. A touch button controls audible alarm and on/off output. Output set points are user adjustable. More information is available at your local indoor gardening shop.

Continues on page 156 42

Maximum Yield USAâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; |â&#x20AC;&#x201A; September 2010

If You Can’t Stand the Heat…

GROWING INDOOR PLANTS USING LED LIGHTING

by Brian Chiang and Josh Puckett

Indoor garden lighting has never been more energy efficient or versatile as it is today. Advanced lighting technology experts Brian Chiang and Josh Puckett examine how the latest intelligent LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) can help growers manage and maximize their crops.

LED lighting is a rapidly changing technology that people everywhere are buzzing about, and a technology that is showing up in a variety of industries, from general lighting to entertainment lighting to horticultural lighting. With their energy saving features, long lifetimes and no toxicity, LEDs are becoming prominent in the indoor growing world. The advent of densely packed, high intensity, horticultural LED technology is giving indoor growers opportunities that were not previously available. LED technology allows for the isolation and mixing of wavelengths, so growers can now control the wavelength combinations and lighting regimes that they administer to their plants. Due to the low heat output of LEDs, growers can now increase light intensity by closing the distance between lights and plants. The design and size of emerging LEDs also means they are extremely versatile. LED technology is forcing the horticultural lighting industry to reexamine the way temperature, ventilation, circulation, CO2, humidity, watering and fertilizer are managed. The prevalence of large, high wattage and intense broadband lighting sources has dictated the way indoor growers perceive the indoor growing space and management of indoor crops. The complications typical 46

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

of these lighting systems are seen as standard procedure. However, there are vast differences to be addressed when comparing these two types of lighting systems. LEDs are turning up the heat on broadband sources—ironically because they produce so little. Temperature and Ventilation LEDs are extremely efficient at converting energy to light. The temperature of the growing space must be at a level that is comfortable for the plants. Excessive heat can cause water to evaporate and plants to dry out. It can also cause plants unnecessary stress, leading to vegetative damage, flower sterility among crops, decreased flower and fruit production, and ultimately, a reduction in crop yield. As a result, many lighting sources have to work in conjunction with a ventilation system. Intricate ventilation and circulation systems with multiple controllers and fans help to remove a fraction of the heat in grow rooms or airtight tents. One fan is kept in the lighting fixture itself, while another is situated to the side to pump heated air out. This separate system is installed in the growing area to help direct heat away from the plants into the outside environment. During the summertime when the

If You Can’t Stand the Heat... weather is significantly hotter, air conditioning is often required to lower and maintain temperature levels. Good ventilation is necessary for temperature control in the contained area to monitor the stability of the growing environment. With LEDs, there is no need for a separate venting system. Because they efficiently convert energy to light, they are naturally cool. This is a big advantage for growers as it eliminates another aspect that they have to otherwise monitor. Growers don’t have to worry about the temperature getting too hot in the growing area and inhibiting the growth of their plants. CO2 and Circulation Carbon dioxide (CO2) is an important ingredient in allowing photosynthesis to occur. Plants turn the carbon into energy for food, and release oxygen as a byproduct. Knowing this, growers often provide plants with supplemental CO2 when planting in an enclosed space. In a contained growing area, two fans are usually already present in the venting system provided to broadband light sources. To help increase circulation at the plant level, another fan is often situated near the plants. This helps to provide enough air circulation around the plants and monitor the heat that isn’t directly taken out by the venting system. However, this extra movement in the air also takes out useful CO2, making it harder for plants to utilize the supplemental CO2 growers may allot to plants. When using LED sources in a contained area, circulation is still a recommended practice. The circulation fan can be used at lower speeds or more sporadically under LED lights to help plants and keep them strong. However, since ventilation fans aren’t required, less air is vented out of the growing environment to allow plants to better utilize supplemental CO2. Most of these parameters don’t apply when growing in an open area, since there is more ventilation; however, a small fan may be used to increase circulation if needed.

These LEDs are modular meaning you can place as few or as many as you need over the plants without worry of excess heat.

air can hold heat, absorbing the kinetic energy from the radiated light and making them more susceptible to escaping the contained area. Water and the nutritional additives in the water in hydroponic are then also directed away from the plant, hindering their growth. To compensate the loss of water, growers using broadband sources must increase the number of times they water and the amount of nutritional additives given to plants. This is true for hydroponic systems as well. Water and nutritional additives in the water must be changed and added more frequently, because of the high evaporation rates under broadband light sources. On the other hand, LEDs emit much less heat, making it much easier to control humidity levels within an enclosed growing area. Less heat lowers the kinetic energy of the air and water molecules so that they move slower and stay in the contained area. Water molecules are unable to escape as quickly. This leads to a more stable humidity level, which means less frequent watering. For hydroponic systems, this lowers the rate that growers have to change water or add nutrients to the water. There is still much research being done to figure out precisely the parameters of scheduling watering or adding nutrients and making different nutrition formulas when using LEDs.

“Water molecules in the air can hold heat, absorbing the kinetic energy from the radiated light and making them more susceptible to escaping the contained area. “

Humidity, Watering and Nutritional Additives It is possible to maintain the same temperature levels between broadband sources and LEDs. It is not quite so easy to monitor humidity levels. The high temperature associated with broadband lights decreases humidity levels and leads to increased rates of evaporation and evapotranspiration in plants. With high temperatures, the kinetic energy of each water molecule is raised. The water molecules move faster, allowing them to evaporate from the plants more easily. Water molecules in the 48

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

If You Can’t Stand the Heat...

Light Intensity Photosynthesis is the process plants use to convert light into food. The intensity of the light provided to plants plays a large role in photosynthesis. Photosynthesis occurs in the leaves of the plants in structures called chloroplasts that contain chlorophyll. Chlorophyll serves to harvest the light photons that are then passed on from molecule to molecule until trapped by photosynthetic reaction centers located deep within the chloroplast. These reaction centers then take the light energy to use in the photosynthetic process. A reaction center intercepts only around one photon every second, so the chlorophyll’s ability to capture light is critical. The more photons there are, the more chances the chlorophyll will have to transfer the photons to a reaction center. This is where light intensity becomes an issue. A more intense light means that more photons are being emitted. With more photons, the probability that a photon will reach a reaction center is much higher. Take a simple ring toss for example. The more rings you have to throw, the higher the chances are that you will hit a target bottle. In the same way, plants benefit from having higher light intensity because a higher concentration of photons results in higher photosynthetic productivity.

“With more light providing more photons for better photosynthesis, growers can expect a boost in performance from their plants. ”

Because LEDs are naturally cool and efficiently convert electricity to light, growers will be able to place more LEDs over their plants to give that extra boost of light without having to worry about heat. Their small size also allows them to be used with more versatility in terms of special placements or larger numbers. With more light providing more photons for better photosynthesis, growers can expect a boost in 50

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

If You Can’t Stand the Heat...

performance from their plants. As LED technology continues to advance, growers will also begin to see smaller, brighter, more powerful LED products for their plants. Spectrum Plants respond favorably to specific wavelengths in a light spectrum. LEDs have the ability to produce wavelength specific light. This is the biggest advantage of LEDs in an indoor gardening space. Because each LED emits a specific wavelength, growers can optimize light for plant growth. By mixing various LED chips, a complex light spectrum can be created as unique formulas for different growth conditions. Although we know

With LEDs, you can tailor each light to create the ideal spectrum. Shown above is a red, purple and blue spectrum.

that plants benefit mostly from the blue and red parts of the spectrum, making the best light is not as simple as using random blue and red LED chips. There are specific wavelengths that are ideal for plant growth. Different ratios of red and blue light will affect different types of chlorophyll (the main center of photosynthesis). Not only that, plants need different wavelengths during different phases of growth. For example, plants benefit from the red spectrum during the flowering phase. Results will inevitably vary from crop to crop, and even strain to strain. As this is an active area of research, scientists are discovering more everyday not only which wavelengths benefit plants, but during what time of day or which growing phase to use them. Growers may even be able to limit their use of Plant Growth Regulators (PGR), since these special wavelengths would be optimized to produce similar results. Aside from cutting down costs, this gives the grower one less task to worry about. With more research, growers will better know which spectrums accelerate or slow down growth, improve yields or morph the shape of different plants. Conclusion There is still much to be discovered about this up and coming technology. As we accumulate more knowledge and LED technology overcomes the obstacles of increased intensity and optimal wavelength formulation, the indoor gardening industry will be presented with previously unavailable opportunities. The culture of indoor growing can now change for the better and accommodate the obligations that come with the promise of optimal and energy efficient indoor growing. Energy efficient, little heat produced, intense light and spectrum specifying—these are just some of the advantages that are revolutionizing the way growers use light. LEDs will take the MY world by storm, bringing in a spectral revolution.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Chelated

Micronutrients by Donald Lester

Agricultural Scientist Donald Lester details the benefits of highly efficient chelated micronutrients—which aid in enhanced plant growth and greater yields—and defines the various types to help you choose the very best option for your indoor garden system. Plants need the essential nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium—the N-P-K on fertilizer labels—in large amounts, so these are referred to as macronutrients. Plants also need essential micronutrients (also known as trace minerals) such as calcium, zinc, magnesium, iron and manganese. Micronutrients come in many different forms that affect their solubility (i.e. dissolvability) in water and their uptake and usage by plants. Micronutrients commonly react with other chemicals and get “tied up” or precipitate in the soil. Once this happens the micronutrients are insoluble in water and will not be absorbed or used by the plant, at least not until micro-organisms or weather breaks them down into a usable form. So, you could 56

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Photo by Dennis Tasa

literally add a lot of one micronutrient to the soil but the plant will use only a small amount. A good example of this phenomenon can be seen with the soft mineral, gypsum. Every year growers apply gypsum to their fields by the ton, but since it is not very soluble in water only a very small amount of calcium is available to the plant. It takes a long time for soil microbes and weather to break down these compounds so that plants can use them. Foliar applications do not suffer from this phenomenon (table one). Fertilizer manufacturers produce several different forms of micronutrients such as salts, oxides and chelates. The chelated micronutrients are becoming popular because of their high efficiency. Knowing a bit about the various types of chelated micronutrients can help you choose the one that is right for you.

Gypsum, a soft mineral composed of calcium sulfate dihydrate, is only mildly water soluble, so only small amount of calcium becomes available to plants.

What is a Chelate? Chelation is a term that describes an encapsulation process. A mineral, like calcium for example, reacts with another material to form a protective shell around the desired mineral or metal (in this case calcium). The word chelate derives from the Greek word “chel”, meaning a crab’s claw, and refers to the pincer-like manner in which the mineral is bound. Some chelating chemicals are shaped like a letter ‘C’ and surround the mineral with just one molecule. This type of binding is called a “complex”. When two molecules of the same material surround a mineral it is known as a chelate. It is important to note that some minerals, like boron or molybdenum, have only one chemical bond and are thus limited to forming only a complex. Strictly speaking, boron and molybdenum cannot be chelated minerals but they are often presented and sold in the market as chelated minerals. Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Chelated Micronutrients

A hold on things The word chelate derives from the Greek word “chel”, meaning a crab’s claw, and refers to the pincer-like manner in which one mineral is bound by another.

Chelates need a “glue” to hold the protective shell in place. Some chelates use sodium for this purpose, but adding sodium can be detrimental to plants. In general the amino acid chelates use organic acids like citric acid. There is an important distinction to be made here about the use of the word organic. In chemistry the term organic means the material contains carbon. In the organic foods world the term organic refers to foods produced without pesticides, synthetic substances, sewage products and other restrictions. Chelates are molecules with a neutral charge, which is very important. Micronutrients normally have an electrical charge on them. For example, calcium and magnesium are both +2 charge. Soil is generally negative in charge, especially clay soils. This means that calcium and magnesium will likely react with the soil and be insoluble and not available for plants to use. Moreover, since they are the same charge, calcium and magnesium compete with each other for entry into the plant. Pores on the leaves of plants (also known as stomates) are negatively charged, so positively charged molecules trying to penetrate the plant get tied up at the stomate entrance thus slowing absorption. But the interaction with chelates is very different. The neutral charge of chelated minerals allows them to enter the stomates unimpeded. Research into nutrient uptake has shown that some materials applied to leaves do not enter the tissues but instead remain stuck to the leaf surface like house paint. Subsequent chemical analysis of these tissues would show similar nutrient levels as those tissues that had nutrient penetration. In light of this oversight researchers now apply nutrients to the leaves and then analyze the fruits to measure the amount of nutrient movement inside the plant. There are several types of chelates. One of the most common forms is Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid (EDTA), which has been on the market for years. EDTA is a large synthetic molecule that binds very tightly to minerals and resists chemical interactions—desirable characteristics for chelates used in the soil. But this strong bonding characteristic can be a negative attribute once 58

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EDTA is in the plant. EDTA binds tightly. In fact, when people have heavy metal poisoning EDTA is injected into their bloodstream to chelate the metals and filter them out. Obviously patients do not want EDTA releasing heavy metals back into their body prematurely. In addition, EDTA can solve one plant nutrient deficiency and at the same time cause another. EDTA has something of a separation anxiety; it must always hold on to something. For example, iron EDTA will cure iron deficiency in plants, but in order for the EDTA to release the iron it must hold onto something else. Often EDTA will take up manganese in order to release the iron, thus causing a manganese deficiency. Furthermore, EDTA is known to take calcium from cell walls in both plants and people. For this reason people put on EDTA are often instructed to take calcium supplements as well. Plants losing calcium in this manner (primarily from their cell walls) visually manifest the loss as wilting.

“Some materials applied to leaves do not enter the tissues but instead remain stuck to the leaf surface like house paint.”

Another category of chelate is the amino acid chelates. There are 20 amino acids. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein. Amino acids are moderately strong chelating agents. Once inside the plant the mineral is released and the left over amino acids that formed the protective shell are used by the plant as a source of water soluble nitrogen. After all, amino acids are building blocks in cell machinery. Everything is used, nothing is lost. Conversely, EDTA is a synthetic molecule, and plants do not naturally use EDTA. It’s sort of like trans fat; the human body doesn’t know what to do with it. Amino acid chelates are generally systemic in the plant meaning they move and travel to where they are Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Chelated Micronutrients

Nutrient Crop Foliar Soil Citation needed. They can do this because Zinc (ZnSO ) annual crops 1 12 Lingle & Holmberg (1956) amino acids are recognized by 4 PO ) beans, tomatoes 1 20 Wittwer, et al. (1957) Phosphorus (H the plant as building blocks and 3 4 grain sorghum 1 25 Withee & Carlson (1959) Iron (FeSO4) are used in nearly every tissue in the plant. Amino acid chelates are grain sorghum 1 100 Krantz (1962) Magnesium (MgSO4) available as liquids or powders Magnesium (MgSO4) celery 1 50 to 100 Johnson, et al.(1957, 1961) and generally available for use in Table 1. Relative amounts of nutrient needed for comparable effect in the plant, by method of application. organic food production. Glycine chelates (also known as Glycine chelates are sometimes used in included) require large amounts of glycinates) are a subset of amino acid wine production because they supply not product to be applied in order to be toxic chelates. Glycine is the smallest amino acid only the desired nutrients, but the glycine to plants. But care must be taken to avoid and it is often used as a chelating agent. also supplies Yeast Available Nitrogen phytotoxicity or burning of plant tissues Since glycine is small it makes a small final (YAN). This means that the yeast can break with EDTA. product that passes through leaf pores down the glycine and use the nitrogen in (stomates) more easily than other larger Using Amino Acid Chelated the formation of its cell walls. molecules, thus enhancing plant uptake. Because chelates enter the plant easily Micronutrients And don’t forget, glycine chelates have Amino acid chelates are especially they are extremely useful for quickly glycine which is an amino acid. When correcting nutrient deficiencies. As a suitable for greenhouse and hydroponics the glycine is separated from the mineral systems because they are usually certified rule chelates are very safe for the plant. in the plant, the plant uses the glycine. The amino acid chelates (glycine chelates organic, readily available for uptake by plants by both roots and foliage and generally are not phytotoxic. For example, in aquaponic systems where fish are Good things in small packages Glycine chelates (also known as glycinates) are a integrated into the hydroponics system it subset of amino acid chelates. Since glycine is small is important that nothing synthetic enter it makes a small final product that passes through leaf pores (stomates) more easily than other larger the tissues or meat of the fish. Therefore, molecules, thus enhancing plant uptake. the use of organic materials is an obvious choice, and the amino acid chelates can be applied directly to the foliage or to the nutrient solution for immediate correction of nutrient deficiencies. When shopping for chelated minerals look for the characteristics listed below.

Shopping for Chelated Micronutrients Desirable Characteristics • Formulation is safe for plants • Does not promote other deficiencies • Readily available to the plant • No sodium • Organic certification Undesirable Characteristics • Formulation is prone to burning • Needs ion replacement to release micronutrient • Slow uptake • Contains sodium MY • Not organically certified 60

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Pythium or Algae: Have you been misdiagnosed?

by Paul Foster

Algae is an often misdiagnosed infection and once acquired, can kill your garden within a week. Many growers will have a “perfect set-up” with system water below 32°F, plenty of air flow and perfect water aeration, and yet they are unable to grow so much as a dandelion. Often misdiagnosed as pythium, algae can be introduced into your hydroponic system through a handful of ways; and if acquired, it will multiply rapidly and destroy a crop. My Story After 10 years of relatively trouble-free hydroponic gardening I started having problems. The only thing that changed was the amount of lumens I was growing with. I went from a 400 watt to 1,000 watt lighting system as I was told this was the key to maximum yields. Slime developed on all surfaces that came into contact with water; the air stones I was using seemed to be coated the worst. Even though I was using chillers and had all of my air stones replaced, the roots turned brown and my plants died. Furthermore, the plant was small with a root mass no bigger than a fist. I drained and cleaned the system and circulated a mixture of half bleach, half water for a day, replanted and crossed my fingers that the “pythium” would not return. However, I would not be so lucky. It did return, again and again. The hydrogen peroxide I was using did me no good. I brought a sample of the slime to a hydroponics store and was told it was not pythium, although they were unsure what else it could be. The next six months were the most frustrating for me and my garden. The plants did fine under fluorescents but when

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

transferred to the 1,000 watt room, they wilted and eventually died. Once again, my wife and I took our problem to an indoor gardening retail shop and explained the conditions we were experiencing. The consultant told us it sounded like low light algae and sold her a bottle of algae and sludge reducer. It worked immediately and I was able to grow trouble free. That is until I increased my lumens once again by reducing the distance between my lights by 12 inches. My system was infected almost immediately and the algae reducer worked only for a short term. I was able to grow plants but the water had to be changed at least once a day. By luck I was talking to a gentleman at a commercial gardening supply store and he suggested I use a dye for the water that is developed to reflect sunlight. I have not looked back since. Signs of Infection The signs of an infected system are a light, white slime coating on the inside of the buckets or the sides of the reservoir. The new growth will be curled over like a ram's horns and the whole plant will look wilted. When the infection is in the early stages, a slippery coating can be felt. Keep in mind, even a mild infection will still destroy your plants. If the infection is severe enough, your air stones will be covered fairly thick with a light brown slime and every surface exposed to the water will feel slippery. The roots will stop growing, turn brown and die. This can happen, even when you’ve taken the utmost precautions with your system’s settings.

Causes of Algae High lumen light intensity The main cause of algae in a hydroponic grow system is light coming into contact with water. This only happens after a certain amount of lumens are utilized, which explains why you can grow with uncovered, untreated water under fluorescents and not HIDs. Top watering Another way to infect your system is through top watering your growing medium. While fluorescent light cannot infect water it can cause algae build-up on your growing medium during the cloning phase. If you top water infected medium you are introducing algae into your system. If exposed to high intensity light your nutrients can become infected. The nutrients will turn cloudy and if used will cause plants to wilt within a day. Any water contacted by HIDs then introduced into your system will become contaminated. Reverse osmosis systems will not prevent algae and neither will water purifiers. Algae is not introduced into your system externally; it is caused within a system, directly or indirectly by HIDs. Hydrogen peroxide will not control an infection nor will bleach. Hydrogen peroxide is mainly used for fighting pythium; by itself it’s ineffective, even at high doses, on algae.

a fungicide with pyrethrum mixed in. It seems to work great along with sticky strips for the fungus gnats and is used at the labeled dose, which is added directly to the reservoir. It will give your water a lemon smell and can be used full time as a precaution if desired. A mixture of three per cent hydrogen peroxide at a rate of five millilitres per litre also works great for the system. This is almost double the maximum recommended dosage of 0.2 ounces per quart but it has been used successfully with no undesired effects. H2O2 is used for the cleansing effect it has on the entire system, including roots, with an added benefit of oxygenation of the water. Algae and Sludge Reducer This product is used to destroy algae already infecting a system and as a preventative measure whenever top watering your medium; it can also be added to the reservoir with every water change. This product is found anywhere pond supplies are sold and is usually part three in a three part pond care package. It can be used at a rate of 0.03 ounces per quart safely.

Pond Dye Pond dye is the last key to the puzzle; the golf courses use this to in their ponds to ensure algae doesn't overtake them. It is made to naturally reflect the sun’s rays and works great for the control Solutions and prevention of algae. A very small amount goes a long way (a Before adding the selected products to your nutrient solution one gallon jug will dye over 80,000 gallons of water), although you have to make sure there is absolutely no light contacting I strengthen it to 0.02 ounces per quart. I recommend you purthe water. The lumens produced by HIDs can penetrate thin chase the variety that is safe for fish as well as plants. plastic so either double up everything or use thick sheeting to The water in my system is city water, taken from a garden hose cover any areas that light might penetrate. Gravel or rocks on and poured directly into the reservoir. I used no pre-treatment top of your medium can also allow at all. A friend of mine has gone enough light in to cause prob“The signs of an infected system are a light, the pre-treatment route with no lems, so make sure to cover your success; she is currently growing in white slime coating on the inside of the medium with sheeting thoroughly. dirt after giving up on hydroponics buckets or the sides of the reservoir.” Make sure your nutrient soludue to algae. I informed her of my tions are stored away from any HID light; if your nutrients findings but she is unable to switch back yet due to the money turn cloudy, discard them. Any stored water that comes into she spent on pre-treatment. How many once hydroponic growcontact with HIDs should not be introduced into your system. ers are now growing in dirt because they didn’t have the correct I have had a one foot long section of drain line being used for information to diagnose their problem? As far as I am concerned a breather, and even then, the lumens directed down into it I just got lucky. Remember the algae is coming directly or inwas enough to cause an infection. Once I capped it, the system directly from your lighting. If your problems are mineral related returned to normal. you will have to pre-treat your water, but make sure that is the case as pre-treatment can be expensive. Tips and Products The combination of these five products together, along with a Fungus gnats are almost always present at the same time as algae, system that is secure from intruding light, will ensure algae will leading many to believe these pests are solely to blame for their not be a threat to your valuable garden. wilting plants. However, they are most likely secondary to the Happy growing. algae. After all, if there's food they will come. Only after you get MY rid of what they eat will they disappear. Foliar Spray and Sticky Strips The first two products to utilize are an organic-based foliar and root application along with sticky strips. The foliar spray is

Paul Foster provides an in-depth account of what algae looks like in your hydroponic grow system at www.maximumyield.com

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Unplugged 64

The Modernized Gericke System by Dr Lynette Morgan Taking a hint from Dr.William Frederick Gericke’s 1930s hydroponic system, indoor growers today can combine the best of old school techniques and modern technologies for a simple and effective growing solution.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Unplugged: The Modernized Gericke System

The science of hydroponics is now more high-tech than ever before with the average grower having almost instant access to information on advanced growing techniques, systems and products. However, every now and then it pays to look back in history and revisit old ideas that might have something to offer us today, or at least provide some insight into what the early pioneers of hydroponics had to deal with. One such fascinating system was developed by Dr. William Frederick Gericke when he was working at the University of California at Berkley in the late 1930s. Science magazine in 1937 reported that ‘last week a new science was given a new name. Hydroponics, by its foremost U.S. practitioner Dr. William Gericke’—a startling announcement for a time when producing crops without soil was virtually unheard of. Unfortunately Gericke’s research into soilless production methods was controversial when he initially refused to reveal details of the system that he had worked on at home in his own time, despite the huge volume of enquiries he received. Eventually this led to him leaving the University of California and publishing the book The Complete Guide to Soilless Gardening in 1940, where it was claimed the system would revolutionize agriculture. In 1938, when asked by journalists if he expected to make a lot of money out of hydroponics, Gericke’s response was to just smile and reveal two gold teeth (1).

“[Dr. William Gericke published] the book The Complete Guide to Soilless Gardening in 1940, where it was claimed the system would revolutionize agriculture.” The Gericke System would seem by today’s standards to be rather simple and primitive, however, there is no doubt that it can be used to grow plants successfully and many similar hybrid systems are in commercial use today. What is interesting and perhaps overlooked at

T Completehe Soilless G Guide To ardening

William F .G

ericke

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Unplugged: The Modernized Gericke System

the time, was that a Gericke System can be run as a traditional hydroponic system using inert media and nutrient solutions; as a hybrid organic/hydroponic system; or possibly as a truly organic soilless system. By incorporating two phases in one system—a solid media or substrate based ‘seed bed’ suspended above a nutrient ‘basin’ that don’t interact with each other—there is the possibility for combining some modern ideas and philosophies about plant growth. At the very least a well run Gericke System is a simple method that can be utilized where there is no power source or limited labor for monitoring and adjusting nutrient solutions. Many of the modern solution culture or deep tank systems are based on the Gericke System, although these have been developed to incorporate new materials and equipment.

What is the Gericke System? In the days before readily available plastics for irrigation lines, reservoirs, plant supports and synthetic plant mediums, early hydroponic researchers had limited resources to work with. Gericke’s initial basic system consisted of a trench dug into the earth lined with asphalt impregnated mats and roofing paper. Later these trenches become ‘basins’ constructed from timber, painted concrete or sheet metal. Over the basin, which was used to contain a depth of nutrient solution, wire netting was stretched and this held the four to five inch deep ‘seedling bed’ that supported the plants. This seedling bed was typically filled with materials available at the time (no rockwool or expanded clay in those days); this was often sawdust, compost, vegetable litter, straw, chaff and leaf mould. The function of the seed bed was to provide support and moisture The planted organic/hydr for the System showing root gro oponic Gericke germinating the nutrient reservoir aftwth down into er two weeks. seed until

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Unplugged: The Modernized Gericke System

the plant had extended roots down through the wire mesh and into the nutrient solution contained in the basin reservoir below. With this system it was important to maintain an air gap between the top of the nutrient solution in the basin and the base of the media filled seed bed, which provided a moist environment for roots to obtain oxygen. The nutrient solution in those days was fairly basic as chelates were not yet available and formulations System with a seedbed of contained fertilizers such as The modernized Gericke ark/paper and a standard vermicast/coco/compost/bn in the reservoir below. ‘treble super phosphate’ and ‘grow’ nutrient solutio iron sulfate—salts we would not consider part of today’s modern nutrient solutions. The modern Despite this, photographs of the many and varied crops, everything Gericke System from peanuts to potatoes and papayas, Today, with a much wider range of materials and a wealth of knowledge grown by Gericke, demonstrated that on soilless production generated the system not only worked but was by researchers over the six decades highly productive as well.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

since Gericke’s first system, it should be possible to recreate and improve on these ideas. Gericke’s System was initially a hybrid organic/hydroponic set up with a ‘seed bed’ consisting of organic materials and a reservoir below of balanced fertilizer salts. Thus, the plants would have had access to the best of both philosophies—potential availability of organic compounds, microbes, humus and other organic factors as well as complete and balanced nutrient from the mineral ions provided below. Considering that the organic seedbed above is maintained so that it does not leach organic materials into the solution below, the risk of the solution going anaerobic or bacterial and starting to smell would have been eliminated. Furthermore, the nutrient solution would not have been applied or irrigated onto to the organic seed bed, keeping it in its natural state. With a wider choice of both hydroponic nutrient products and organic materials these days it would be possible to create the ultimate organoponic system that would require very little maintenance and adjustment. Another modern take on the Gericke System was to determine if it would still work for some of today’s micro crops that would have probably horrified Gericke who concentrated many trials on growing vast quantities of six foot tall wheat for high quality bread baking. Healthy food crops such as wheat grass shoots, sprouts, baby salad leaves, lettuce and microgreens need little space

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Unplugged: The Modernized Gericke System

and are well adapted to growing indoors on a kitchen bench or next to a window, but such systems need to be self contained and compact. Having such a system that does not require electricity, pumps or other equipment is a major advantage, as is a carefree method of nutrient management.

The modern Gericke System trials Two ‘modern’ Gericke Systems were designed using two different philosophies—the first was a small salad greens system using completely soilless and media free principals. The nutrient reservoir or basin consisted of a polystyrene cooler, approximately 10 inches long, eight inches wide and six inches deep, filled to 2⁄3 depth with a complete hydroponic nutrient solution. The seed bed of the Gericke System was a plastic mesh basket that fitted

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Gericke System showing the and mesh based seed bednutrient reservoir below , which sits above.

tightly into the top of the nutrient filled cooler, allowing an air space of around ½ inch. The mesh basket was lined with a special matting, a synthetic, “Having such a system that hygienic, porous does not require electricity, material used in pumps or other equipment is the production of micro greens. a major advantage.” The matting was wetted with water and sown with lettuce seeds. The system was left to its own devices, apart from two to three mistings with water to maintain moisture around the germinating seeds. The lettuce seedlings grew rapidly with roots that extended down into the nutrient solution within a few days of germination. The system required no maintenance or adjustment of the nutrient. The lettuce leaves were harvested within three weeks, by which time the nutrient in the reservoir had dropped to less than an inch in depth. The only time the solution needed to be replenished was between sowings of micro greens and baby leaf lettuce. The system was clean, compact, energy and labor efficient (no energy was required to run the Gericke System although a lamp was used for extra light indoors). The second Gericke System was designed to incorporate organic gardening principals with hydroponics, but without the potential problems that this sort of combination can pose. For this system a large black nutrient reservoir was selected that held 22 gallons of nutrient solution. The nutrient solution was a standard vegetative

Unplugged: The Modernized Gericke System

formulation at an EC of 2.0 and pH of 5.9. The seed bed consisted of a painted timber frame and wire netting that sat in top of the nutrient reservoir. The seed bed was filled with a layer of om fr e mad icke System shredded paper and The mini Geryrene cooler and plastic a small polystmesh basket. coarse coconut fiber that prevented the finer particles falling through into the solution below. A mixture of high quality vermicast (worm castings), fully decomposed compost mixed with coarse bark, for additional aeration was placed over the shredded paper, and the media planted with vegetable seedlings over a three week period. While

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

this system is still in the early stages of growth, the results are promising. The media in the seedling bed has remained moist and roots have grown down into the nutrient reservoir. No signs of foliar yellowing, stunting or wilting have occurred, which would have indicated a lack of oxygen in the root zone or root suffocation. The system appears to be healthy with worm populations in the growing media and no unpleasant smell that would indicate the hydro/organic system had gone anaerobic. Over time the nutrient level, EC and pH has not been adjusted and will not be replaced until the plants are mature and harvested from the system. A true test of the potential of this system will come when modern hybrid tomato plants will be used at a high density to determine just how long the nutrient in the reservoir will last before needing a top up.

Disadvantages of these modern Gericke Systems to date have been: The small microgreens ‘cooler’ system worked well and the

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

mesh basket could be easily lifted up to examine the roots and nutrient level with ease. However the larger hydro/organic Gericke System was more difficult to examine; the seed bed once filled with compost media was heavy to lift, so it became difficult to check the nutrient solution and root growth below. Given that this system was still considerably smaller than the original Gericke set-up, it was expected that the roots would be easy to access, however, the weight of the damp seed bed had been underestimated. If the nutrient solution is going to need topping up and adjustment during intense heat and evaporation it is going to be rather difficult to do this and some further tinkering with the system is planned for future developments.The original Gericke Systems had built in nutrient level indicators and access funnels to allow the nutrient to be topped up as required, so that would be the next logical step to improving the trial system. Overall revisiting the Gericke System has led to some interesting findings; simplified systems that require no pumps, electricity or circulating of nutrient can produce surprising results provided the principles of good plant nutrition, root zone aeration and support are followed.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Lettuce root outgrowth into the nutrient reservoir after 10 days.

In addition, modern ideas No pumps or the Gericke Sy electricity required, incorporating organic a small indo stem was ideal for or gardening into hydroponics many succes space and grew sive salad cr while still maintaining the ops. benefits of both are possible MY in a simple and easy to operate system.

References Hydroponics’ Published in ‘Science’ Monday May 01, 1937 Gericke W F, 1940. The Complete Guide to Soilless Gardening. Published by Prentice-Hall Inc, New York. Gericke W F, 1945. The meaning of hydroponics. Science, Volume 101, Number 2615 pp 142-143.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Harvesting Your Summer Vegetables by Clair Schwan

Harvesting vegetables seems like an easy task. Just pull them off the vine, cut off the stems, snip off the leaves or yank them out of the ground. Well, sometimes it’s simple, and sometimes it’s not. In my case, I let my vegetable gardening objectives guide when and how I harvest. If we start thinking in terms of objectives, we might harvest our vegetables a bit differently than we usually do. Let’s take a look at three common objectives we might want to achieve while harvesting our summer vegetables—higher yields, extended season of harvest and highest quality. Each of these might suggest that we harvest the fruits of our labor a bit differently. I’ll provide you with a few examples of how my vegetable gardening objectives guide me in the manner in which I harvest what I’ve grown. The first two objectives, higher yields and an extended season of harvest, are the most important for me since I’m focused on providing a source of food for myself year round.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Harvesting Your Summer Vegetables

Higher Yields Here are some tips for getting higher yields when harvesting your summer vegetables. Some might surprise you. Onions – a round bulb usually harvested late in the year

and left to cure before storage. Since they come from your greenhouse, you can choose how to harvest them to get the most food value for the space they occupy. Pull up onions anytime during their period of growth and you’ll have a young onion to deal with.You don’t have to wait until the onion is fully mature. More importantly, don’t forget about the tops—they’re part of your harvest as well. Use the onion tops like giant chives or giant green onions. They’re great in soups, salads and all sorts of dishes where a green onion would come in handy.You can also simply harvest a couple of spears from some of the onion tops and leave the bulb in the ground to harvest later. In either case, don’t let the green tops go to waste.

Root crops – a crop treasured for the swollen root that is the

main source of food. Like the onion, don’t let the tops go to waste when you harvest the root. Most root vegetables provide a good meal if you eat the leaves and stems as well. The tops of kohlrabi, beets and turnips are just a few of the root crops that offer dinner upstairs as well as in the cellar. For higher yields throughout the summer, simply trim off some of the tops and let the root continue to grow until you’re ready to harvest it, and then enjoy both the greens and the root. This is my preferred approach to harvesting beets and turnips.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Harvesting Your Summer Vegetables Broccoli – a cruciferous vegetable that naturally provides higher yields as it develops side shoots after you harvest

the main head. Don’t count broccoli out once you harvest the main heads. Give it a chance to produce smaller side shoots that are just as desirable. In addition, when you’re harvesting broccoli, don’t be afraid to take the heads off well into the plant. By slicing deep into the plant, you get the head and a fair amount of the stalk. The stalk is more difficult to prepare, but you can get quite a bit more food from it if you shave off the outer skin, slice it into spears and steam it along with the heads. If you’re not taking part of the stalk when you harvest, you’re missing quite a bit of edible plant. Summer squash – a favorite summer vegetable that most would recommend you harvest when still very small, perhaps four to six inches in length. If allowed to grow to the size of your forearm, you’ll get much more food value without risking a lot of seeds. Allow the fruits to grow to the size of your lower leg, and you’ll have nice “boats” to hollow out and fill with a hamburger mixture for a satisfying meal. The trick is to know what kind of squash you’re dealing with. Yellow summer squash like Butterstick can provide good size fruits with limited seeds, and still be quite tender. This allows the gardener to grow good size fruits for greater yields. Some patty pan squash can be allowed to grow to the size of a single serving pizza, and they can then be sliced horizontally to make excellent vegetable pizza. Starship is a good variety to let grow large The venerable summer squash offers as many options for preparation and enough for vegetable pizza. serving as they do varieties.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Harvesting Your Summer Vegetables

Extended Harvest Some of my favorite crops are those that allow an extended harvest. Many can be planted early or late in the traditional growing season, but all offer options for harvesting now and later. Kale – a favorite of mine simply because it’s easy to grow and

offers a very long season of harvest in milder climates. For example, the curly green Winterbor variety can be grown and harvested all season long simply by harvesting the large leaves on the underside of the plant. As you harvest, the plant grows taller while producing more leaves from the center. By the time you reach the end of the summer season, your kale plants could be three feet tall and still producing more leaves for you to harvest in

the fall and winter. When using this technique, be sure to leave at least six good size leaves on the plant so it can replenish itself from the soil and sun. Carrots – a common root vegetable that is conducive to year round planting and harvesting when cultivated indoors. Don’t pull up the carrots just because they’re mature. Leave them in the ground and harvest them over a longer period as you need them. Even in raised beds, I’ve harvested carrots into the winter in an unheated greenhouse—carrots that were planted nine months earlier. Many other root crops can be handled the same way. Instead of harvesting a newly matured root, you can allow it to reside in that “life size produce stand” known as your indoor gardening space, and harvest as you please. Cold storage in a cellar works well, but leaving them in the ground is so much easier, and it also allows you to head into the winter with your mature root crops happily in the ground where they’re most comfortable.

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Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

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Harvesting Your Summer Vegetables

Best Quality For the discriminating chef who only wants the best produce, you need to be especially mindful of quality. Here are some examples of harvesting techniques that center on the objective of getting the highest quality vegetables that we can. Cucumbers – another favorite of mine simply

because they lend themselves to summertime salads, pickling and fresh eating like a tomato. Most of us growing cucumbers indoors will opt for a variety like Telegraph that requires no pollination. This cucumber can be a bit tricky to harvest because what might look like a mature fruit can turn out to have bitter ends. Leaving them on the vines longer will eliminate this bitter quality, but you’ll also risk more seed development as well. The key is familiarity with the variety of cucumber so you know when to harvest for best quality of taste and texture. For the Telegraph variety, I’ve learned to let them grow to about a foot long. This provides a nice mature fruit with all the quality in a cucumber that I’m looking for. Tomatoes – perhaps the most popular vegetable for any gardener, but of course, it’s really a type of fruit, a berry to be exact. And, like any other fruit, timing for harvesting is key to getting the quality you want. The best quality tomatoes are those that are truly vine-ripened to perfection. Many tomatoes have slightly different indicators that let you know they’re ripe, but as a general rule, tomatoes are ripe when they are fully colored with little or no green shoulders, have become a bit soft to the touch, have a good tomato smell and can be easily coaxed off of the vine. For the grape type tomatoes like Juliettes, I gently push the tomato left or right, and if it’s ripe, it falls right off the vine. If I wait longer, I risk having them fall off the vine and onto the ground. The variety known as Tommy Toe provides golf ball size tomatoes and is ripe when easily coaxed off of the vine with a gentle twisting or bending action. When in doubt, you can always engage in a little testing by harvesting one and cutting it open. For the typical red tomato, the seeds should be well defined with no evidence of green in the seed cavities. The flesh should also ooze juice when sliced open, and you should have the full flavor that you expect from that variety. 86

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Harvesting Your Summer Vegetables Hot peppers – a favorite of mine, but something that

can be a bit irregular in quality unless you know something about the relationship between the heat in the pepper to the water provided to the plant. Take the Jalapeno as an example. If you water them well, they’ll produce nice fruits that taste very similar to green peppers. If you want that nice hot pepper zing, you need to cut back on the water well before harvesting. Keep them lightly watered, and they’ll generate the chemical burn you’re looking for in a hot pepper.

the possibility of slicing into other portions of the plant or adjacent fruit. There is no need to sever the vine completely, just cut it about halfway through and the squash will release from the vine with a gentle twisting action. If you don’t cut the vine sufficiently before twisting or pulling, you risk damaging the surface of the fruit, and causing the fruit to MY fracture near where it attaches to the vine.

Summer squash – a vegetable of many appearances and uses, it is

About the Author

best when harvested small. For the gourmet, long cylindrical squash are best when about six inches long, or even a bit longer. My rule for harvesting is when the blossom dries up at the end of the squash, it’s a perfect size and quality for smaller slices or spears. If you’re dealing with the patty pan type of summer squash, harvest them when they are the size of a baseball for a tender exterior and almost no seeds. My preferred harvesting technique is to use a knife to slice through the vine just upstream (on the plant side) of the fruit. I use a plunging action rather than a drawing action to minimize

Clair Schwan is an experienced vegetable gardener using unheated homemade greenhouses of his own design and construction. He grows over 100 varieties of fruits and vegetables in the southeast corner of Wyoming. See his homemade greenhouses at www.Frugal-Living-Freedom.com and learn more about his passion for vegetable gardening at www.Vegetable-Gardening-and-Greenhouses.com. Both sites are focused on helping others live a more frugal and self reliant lifestyle by showing them how to provide their own fresh and clean food supply year round.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

BEGINNER’S CORNER

Your Hydroponic Garden: by Charlene Rennick

Now that you have seedlings or clones with two sets of leaves and good strong roots, where do you go from here? FIRST, you should decide what kind of gardener you want to be and to what quantity you want to produce hydroponically grown plants. Are you a domestic hydroponic hobbyist or do you entertain ideas of making an honest profit from your efforts?

SECOND, taking a clo se look at the root sys tem of your seedling or clone wi ll tell you if transplant ing into a more permanent location is appropriate. A healt hy root system has many fine fibers deve loping laterally, horiz ontally or just off the main root tendr il. The hairier your new roots look, the better. Each tiny fiber is responsible for assist ing nutrients from the growing medium to the plant, so if your seedling has a large network of these offshoots, it will be be tter prepared to survive as a strong, he althy plant. On the ot her hand, if your new plant spor ts only a few straight roots, it may ser ve nature better as a compost pa rticipant.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

THIRD, consider the profit available to you if you have successfully managed to clone your favorite plants. Cloning reproduces many seedlings from the parent plant without the extra cost of purchasing seeds and starter mediums. Rooting compounds have evolved from the older type of powders to an improved gel formula that seals in the nutrients and clings to the cutting. Because all the shoots are dipped in a rooting hormone, the plant that results from this procedure usually survives; whereas, germinating seeds sometimes goes hand-in-hand with composting duds, misfits and those with a stunted growth. Using a good crop of annuals as a prototype for the cloned generations can result in a bountiful, inexpensive plethora of new plants that can generate a worthy profit even for a hydroponic hobbyist. There is some middle ground here, as well.You can start small with a system you can add on to if you want to leave your options open for larger projects after you have a better feel for the hydroponic gardener in you. MY

Maximum Yield USAâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; |â&#x20AC;&#x201A; September 2010

by Michael Bloch

We find out the difference between Genetically Modified (GM) crops and selective breeding, the dangers of GM crops and how they work against nature.

I decided to write this article after visiting a teacher’s resource site and came across a lesson plan aimed at children that alluded to transgenic or Genetically Modified Organism (GM) crops being better than the crops we have today that have resulted from thousands of years of traditional selective breeding techniques. The lesson plan smacked of some of the old pesticide campaigns such as “DDT is good for me” and we all know how that turned out. DDT was originally hailed as a miracle pesticide and deemed safe but was banned in most circumstances across the USA by 1972. Over three decades later, traces of it can still be found in animals—even penguins in Antarctica. I’ve been following the for and against GMO arguments for a few years now hoping to see enough evidence to dispel any misgivings; but exactly the opposite is happening. Let’s take at look at selective breeding vs. GMO processes as this is an incredibly important topic in relation to the future of our food security, the wider environment and our freedom. In terms of urgency, it’s on par with the issue of climate change in my opinion. 92

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Selective breeding Selective breeding is the process of developing a plant or animal based on selecting desirable characteristics of the parent. For example, saving seeds for replanting from plants within a crop that have shown to be particularly robust or breeding a white dog with a black patch over its eye via two parents that have the same trait. Humanity has been tinkering with selective breeding for thousands of years. Often it’s been beneficial and has led to many of the food sources we have today. However, it can really only go so far—within species or closely related species. Interbreeding between totally different species doesn’t and can’t happen with traditional selective breeding techniques— and it doesn’t happen in nature either. It never has as far as I know and there is a very good reason for it. Species evolve in nature through natural selection (the survival of the fittest), or through mutation where an abnormal trait is introduced by mistake that proves to be beneficial to that plant or animal, and that mutation is passed on, becoming dominant.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

GMO vs Selective Breeding

GMO GMO stands for Genetically Modified Organism. When used in reference to food GMO is usually shorted to GM. This is where the genes from one species can be introduced into an entirely different species through human intervention. For example, taking a gene from a jellyfish and inserting it into the zebrafish genome created the glofish—a fish that glows in the dark. Another example is genes from a bacteria inserted into food crops so that the crop can create its own insecticide. These plants and animals are also known as transgenic. Sound a little freaky? Well, if you’re living in the USA, it gets worse as 70 per cent of the food in U.S. supermarkets contains bioengineered ingredients (corn and soy being the two biggies), but GM labeling is forbidden in the USA; so you’ll never know what it’s in.

Owning a species As these transgenic plants and animals have a different genome (genetic makeup), they are new species that have been patented. They are the intellectual property of the company that created them and these companies exercise tight control over how they are used. Biotech companies such as Monsanto force farmers to sign contracts stating that the farmer will not save seed produced by the crop. Monsanto has also been busy over the past few years buying up

seed companies all over the world. This is the same company that brought to the world such wonderful products as Agent Orange, used as a defoliant during the Vietnam War. What we are seeing is a handful of companies taking control over food crops, replacing them with species they own; even the seeds we buy for our backyard veggie gardens. It’s another good reason to consider buying heirloom and heritage seed lines.

Contamination It’s been shown that GM crops do escape and infect other crops (referred to as outcrossing). The ramifications of that are not only the reduction of crop biodiversity by the invasion of crops we still don’t fully understand, but it’s also related to the intellectual property issue mentioned above. Here’s an example Farmer A grows a GM crop with seed provided by Company X. Farmer B grows a non GM crop. Farmer A’s crop invades Farmer B’s crop through pollination; subsequent generations are infected with the GM genes. Company X now effectively owns Farmer B’s crop.

There’s documented cases whereby companies producing GM crops have prosecuted people in Farmer B’s situation. WHO (World Health Organization) also mentions a case where traces of a maize type, which was only approved for feed use, appeared in maize products for human consumption in the USA.

GM crops, herbicides and pesticides The overuse of pesticides and herbicides has always resulted in the same situation—insects/weeds develop resistance or nontarget species (including humans) being negatively affected. Some crops have also been genetically manipulated to resist certain herbicides. The company creates not only the crop, but the herbicide the crop is resistant to. The end result is farmers spraying even more herbicide knowing that it won’t kill the crops. The weeds become resistant and around we go again. Stronger/better poisons need to be created and another crop will need to be developed to be immune to it. Meanwhile, what other damage has been done?

Humanity has been tinkering with selective breeding for thousands of years. Often it’s been beneficial and has led to many of the food sources we have today.” 94

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Lack of study The GM industry is huge and it’s very powerful; with many complicit partners in government.You’d be surprised how many high ranking politicians and bearers of office have

A crop-duster completes an aerial application of pesticide on a field.

either worked for major biotech and agribusiness companies before entering office or immediately upon leaving. In some cases it’s a revolving door—work for the company, then work in the Department of Agriculture or the EPA, then back to the company. Due to this infiltration, the studies you’d think would be required to release these plants and animals onto the market for human consumption simply haven’t been done.You can learn more about this aspect in the video “The World According To Monsanto.”

The American guinea pig In a nutshell; American people are the GM experiment.You’re the guinea pigs of this brave new world of GM; and the sad thing is, nobody asked your permission. The situation is bigger than us too. Other animals feed on the same crops that we do. What will be the long term effects on them? What will happen when creations such as the glofish invariably get into aquatic ecosystems? Nobody can say because nobody knows.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

GMO vs Selective Breeding

As for human health, a recent study published in the International Journal of Biological Sciences claims to have established a link between three GM maize varieties and negative effects on kidney and liver function in rats after just 90 days of feeding. In addition, some effects on heart, adrenal, spleen and blood cells were also frequently noted.

Is the future frankenfood? GM crops are hailed by their proponents as the answer to the world’s food shortage. It’s my opinion that this is at best naive and at worst a plain lie. If you’re looking for a more informed point of view, have a read of the Union of Concerned Scientists report, Failure To Yield. After 13 years of commercialization in the United States, the report concludes that these frankencrops have done little to increase overall crop yields. There is no food shortage problem, there is a food wastage and distribution problem. The world creates an abundance of food.

Interbreeding between totally different species doesn’t and can’t happen with traditional selective breeding techniques—and it doesn’t happen in nature either.”

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Allowing GM crops and animals to become the core of our food supply could end in disaster. Transgenic crops are not in harmony with nature, they fly in the face of it. And what happens when our activities work against nature? Climate change is a classic example.

GMOs and your child’s education Ask your children what they are being taught about GMO at school. If the teacher’s lesson plan I viewed is indicative of what our children will be learning, I fear we are in deep trouble. But don’t take my word for it. The above really only scratches the surface of all the issues related to the GM crop and food industry. Research the topic; the for and against arguments. But whatever conclusion you arrive at about GM food; it remains that selective breeding is very different to the technology behind GMO. Our children deserve to know, because without that knowledge, they are more likely to accept GM food without questioning it, and I MY fear that is the plan.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

25 TOP

Hydroponics FAQs by Trevor Holt

Hydroponics is so advanced that at times it can feel like information overload. This article provides an opportunity to step back and refocus on the simple tasks that will help your garden grow. Q. What pH should I maintain? A. The pH should be kept between 6.0 and 6.5 with 6.3 the ideal range.

grow room. Certain nutrient deficiencies can also cause tipburn. Use a well known brand of nutrients, and if in doubt, change the solution.

Q. How long should I run my lights? A. Lighting hours depend on the plant’s growth phase. Seed raising = 24 hours per day Cutting phase = 18 hours per day Vegetative phase = 18 hours per day Flowering phase = 12 hours per day

Q. Does the nutrient solution need to be heated? A. It is best to maintain nutrient solution temperatures between 64°F and 71°F. Temperatures below 64°F will cause growth to slow. It is necessary to add heat to your grow room in cooler seasons.

Q. What causes the tips of plants to burn? A. This can be caused by too much fertilizer, too much salt in the water, not enough water, lights placed too close to the plants or poor air movement in the

Q. What causes plants to die? A. There can be a number of reasons for this. First, you must eliminate the obvious elements that could be causing death, like lack of water or high temperatures. Root diseases like pythium

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

are quite common and can cause sudden death of plants as well as low yields and a complete collapse. Microbial cleansers have been proven very useful in the treatment of root zone problems. As a preventative measure, the risks can be reduced by way of friendly bacteria, which break down the dead root matter and convert it into useable compounds that the plant can absorb. Q. Why do plants stretch? A. Plants stretch when the light is insufficient or humidity is too high. Lack of ventilation is normally the cause of high humidity.You should always have the air coming in the same as the air going out at the same rate.You need at least 20 to 30 air changes per hour.

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Top 25 Hydroponics FAQs

Q. Should I use EC and pH meters? A. Trying to run a hydroponic system without meters is very difficult, making it hard to achieve optimum results.

Q. What humidity should I maintain? A. Humidity is best maintained at 50 per cent in the center of the plant canopy, although between 40 per cent and 60 per cent is acceptable. Too high a humidity runs the risk of disease and stretching. Q. What temperature should the growing room be? A. Room temperature needs to be maintained at around 77°F in the vegetative phase and a couple of degrees lower in flowering though anywhere between 71 and 82°F is acceptable. Q. How much ventilation is necessary? A. Ventilation needs to be enough to maintain a temperature of about 82°F and a humidity of about 50 per cent in the center of the plant canopy. Generally, it is better to have too much than too little ventilation. Q. What is the best hydroponics system? A. The success of any system will depend on the management. The best results are often achieved with the simplest of systems. Q. What is the best medium? A. As with systems, there is no “best” medium. Each medium requires different management, but expanded clay tends to be easy to manage and very effective, with good moisture retention and good drainage. Q. How often should I dump my nutrient solution? A. There is no hard and fast rule on this one. Generally the cheaper nutrients require dumping more often than the better ones. The size of the reservoir relative to the number of plants is also important. Using quality nutrients would only require dumping every two weeks, although most experienced growers dump every week to keep water quality at a premium. 100

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

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Top 25 Hydroponics FAQs About five to 12 days is normal. Using rootzone accelerant in the tank and stress guard as a foliar spray will increase the strike rate significantly as well as the subsequent health of the plant.

Q. What size reservoir should I run? A. For ease of control, use a minimum of 10 gallons per three square feet of growing area, as less than this requires frequent adjustments. A rule of thumb is at least 50 per cent should remain in the tank during irrigation. Q. What is the best nutrient to use? A. There are a number of good nutrients on the market. Unfortunately there are also many nutrients that are cheaply made and don’t do the job properly. Any well-established brand that uses technical grade mineral salts should be suitable. Q. What is the best water to use? A. The best water will have low salts and no contaminants. Household tap water should be okay; if you can drink it yourself, it is should be satisfactory for your plants. The best way to test is to sample some, and if you get a significant CF reading it may be wise to invest in a counter top water purifier. Q. Is it necessary to aerate the nutrient solution? A. Aerating the nutrient solution is a good idea. It guards against stagnant water, helps mix the nutrient and stimulates root development. Q. My plants have very small bugs that spin webs. What are they? A. These are troublesome pests known as red spider or “spidermite.” They can cause severe damage by destroying the plants chlorophyll, and the plants should be treated as soon as possible. Q. How long should it take for clones to strike roots? A. The time taken to strike roots on clones varies according to the time of the year and the health of the clones. 102

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Q. Why are my plant roots brown? A. Brown roots are usually those that have been attacked by disease, probably “pythium.” Using a microbial cleanser will be of great assistance and usually eliminates the problem. Normally, healthy roots should be white with fine hairy air roots. Q. What is the purple color on the plant leaves? A. The purple color is a pigment called anthocyanin. It is produced by plants that are growing under some stress. It is often caused by cold growing conditions. It also often happens during flowering and is a deficiency of either potassium or phosphorous, so you will need to increase your nutrient levels. Q. Are there any other pests that attack my plants? A. Whitefly, thrips and caterpillars can also be troublesome. Proprietary remedies are available for specific pests. Q. What is the brown rotting on the flower buds? A. This is probably a disease called botrytis (gray mold), best controlled by maintaining optimal humidity. Regular use of a friendly bacteria/fungicide will help control botrytis as well as many other fungal problems. Q. There are small black flies around the root system of my plants. Are they a problem? A. The flies are probably scarid flies (fungus gnats). Their larvae can cause severe damage to feeder (hairs) on roots. Treat them with a suitable bacterial inoculant or soil drench. MY

Maintenance charts for seed germination, cuttings and the flowering cycle are available on maximumyield.com

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GREEN THUMB GARDENING

VERMICOMPOSTING: Worms and Recycling

by Michael Bloch

Recycling is certainly more prevalent these days, but we are also consuming a lot more and therefore generating more waste per person (on average) than we were a couple of decades ago. Something most of us can do to minimize the amount of garbage we send to landfills is to compost our organic waste such as newspapers, vegetable waste, cardboard, even coffee grinds and eggshells.There’s a very easy way to do so that has minimal smell, doesn’t take up much space, can chew through a heck of a lot of waste quickly and leave you with a most sought after product. The workers you’ll need to assist you are worms and the process is called vermicomposting.The worms require minimal care, are quiet, never go on strike and are incredibly cheap to maintain. Setting up a worm farm isn’t terribly expensive; ready-made farms can cost as little as $50 and the initial worms about $15. A worm farm can cut down your waste by a minimum of 25 per cent. Over a year that translates into hundreds of pounds of waste diverted from the landfill.

The worms spend their entire lives eating your trash, stopping only to reproduce. In fact, worms don’t actually sleep, at least not in the same way humans do. However, they do spend long periods completely inactive in a state called estivation. A pound of worms (around 4,000) can eat half a pound of organic material in 24 hours. What’s left after their digestion, called castings, is one of the best and safest fertilizers around. It’s also pH neutral. Castings feel and smell like good soil because effectively that’s all they are; in fact, it’s said that worm castings are five times richer in nutrients than good topsoil. Castings aren’t the only valuable product created; a fluid called leachate that seeps through the material the worms digest is also highly prized. Brown in color, it has no odor. Worm tea, another non-smelly popular worm by-product is made by soaking worm castings in water.

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So, what can you feed your worms? • coffee grounds • paper • cardboard including egg cartons • vegetable peelings and waste • eggshells The general rule of thumb is if the waste is plant based, worms can deal with it, with a couple of exceptions: • pineapple - contains an enzyme that will dissolve the worms • citrus and highly acidic vegetables such as onions (okay in small amounts) • green grass clippings should be added sparingly as large amounts generate excess heat and produce ammonia, which will kill the worms

Worm Farms! You can purchase worm farms or make one yourself. You’ll need: • A plastic tub with a lid • A pan for leachate runoff • Spacers to place between the tub and the catchment pan Simply drill a series of small holes in the walls of the tub to allow air to circulate and holes in the bottom to allow for drainage. Don’t be too concerned about worms escaping, as they don’t like the light. If worms are escaping, it means there is something wrong with the farm; either it is too dry, too damp or too acidic. You never have to worry about your worms overpopulating, as they will self-regulate reproduction.The more waste that’s available, the more the worms will reproduce; but don’t overfeed them in the early stages while your population is getting established.

composting pals. Remove the layer of waste and a few inches of castings, as this will contain most of your worms. With what’s left, put it to one side for use on your garden, add the scraps and worms back in and you’re all set to go again. If you purchase a large worm farm, you’ll find that most have removable panels at the bottom of the sides to allow for easy removal of castings. It’s kinder on the worms and less mess for you as well. For castings and leachate, while you can use them as is without dilution, the recommended mix is one part leachate/castings to four parts soil or water.

Other vermicomposting tips. • • • • • •

use proper composting worms; garden worms won’t be effective never add any sort of animal products to the farm, including dairy waste mix should be kept moist, not too dry or wet a sign of mix that’s too wet is a methane type odor and worms trying to escape dampen paper and cardboard products before adding MY keep the farm in a shady place Reference: greenlivingtips.com

“Pinapple contains an enzyme that will disolve the worms”

To start your worm farm off: • Place a layer of small pebbles in the bottom to assist with drainage. • Add a couple of loose layers of damp newspaper, building it up to an inch or so thick. • Then it’s just a case of adding waste as it becomes available. The worms will chew their way up through the material leaving their castings behind. When your tub is full and you can fit any more waste in, don’t start pushing it down as you’ll most likely crush your

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Fungi’s Role in the Ecosystem by Luis Bartolo

Mycorrhizae fungi, an important component of soil life, work with nature to break down nutrients and create optimal conditions for the delivery of food to plants. The many types of Mycorrhizae fungi and their many amazing, symbiotic functions are discussed here.

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Fungi’s Role in the Ecosystem In order for organic gardens to function at optimal levels, healthy soil—abundant with living micro-organisms—is required. This living soil is sustained by fertilizers and the natural processes that assist in breaking fertilizers down. Microscopic organisms develop into a self-sustaining ecosystem, which in turn transforms into an acceptable food source for plants. In order for this to happen, all of the elements must be able to unite and work together symbiotically. In nature, the same effect is achieved through years of growth and decay and natural, cyclic conditions of

“Microscopic organisms develop into a self-sustaining ecosystem, which in turn transforms into an acceptable food source for plants.” weather and soil movement. The result is the creation of the pathways and receptors for nature’s organic and inorganic elements to develop. Within this ecosystem are also certain types of fungi that serve to assist the natural processes of life and decay.These fungi, called Mycorrhizae, form working partnerships with plants and transform base materials into food. Mycorrhiza is fungus that lives among and upon the roots of plants and trees. It exists to assist with the break down of complex nutrients—similar to enzymes—and has the ability to create optimal conditions for delivery of food directly to plants’ roots. In some rare cases, Mycorrhizae acts as a pathogen, which exists only to feed itself at the expense of the plant. Mycorrhizae are grouped into several scientific categories owing to the types of plants and trees that they develop the strongest bonds and in the differences in growth and operation. 110

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Let’s introduce some Mycorrhizae Ectomycorrhizae Woody shrubs and trees commonly form Ectomycorrhizae. Pines and other forest trees often grow poorly or cannot survive in the absence of the Mycorrhizae. This species of the fungi is recognized by its unique web-like form, known as a hartig net, named after botanist Robert Hartig. The network forms pathways between the roots, covering the whole surface area. This then extends into the roots and the cell structure creating a direct pathway from the inside out. Outwardly of the root web, Ectomycorrhizae form “thinker” tendrils that extend out into the soil. These pathways can travel miles into the soil to search for water and difficult to acquire minerals such as potassium, which they are then able to transport back to the rhizosphere of the plant or tree.

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Arbuscular Mycorrhizae Arbuscular Mycorrhizae are recognized by their branching growth pattern not unlike the structure of a tree. They too live within the root system between cells. They are also able to fully penetrate and grow within a plant’s cell and extend from within. Analysis has shown that the host plant allows this to happen by changing its own physiological chemistry to adapt to the DNA profile of the Mycorrhizae. Arbuscular Mycorrhizae are particularly adept at obtaining hard to acquire phosphor from the soil and feeding it to the plants in a usable form.

Fungi’s Role in the Ecosystem Fossil and molecular evidence indicates the earliest land plants had Arbuscular Mycorrhizal partnerships 450 million years ago. Because of its prevalence in so many plant fossils of this period it is strongly assumed that it would have contributed to the development of plants worldwide.

Ericaceous Mycorrhizae As the name suggests this form of Mycorrhizae is found mainly in the plants of the Ericaceae family, acid lovers like

azaleas, rhododendrons and heathers. Unlike other Mycorrhizae, Ericaceous Mycorrhizae grow and form a loose sheath around root systems rather than penetrating or living inside it. This is perfect for these plants as they have very fine root systems and are usually found in wet, peaty soil. The Mycorrhizae protect the root system in a hostile environment whilst translocation and feeding the plant. Like the other categories Ericaceous Mycorrhizae also has the ability to travel to other species and is often found linked to trees and other shrubs outside of the ericaceous order. This may be so it is able to acquire a more varied spectrum of nutrient for itself or the host.

Orchidaceous Mycorrhizae Mycorrhizal fungi have a unique role in the lifecycle of plants in the Orchidaceae family. Orchids typically have very small seeds with little nutrient reserve. The plant colonizes shortly after germination, and the mycorrhizal fungus supplies carbon and vitamins to the developing embryo. The fungus grows into the plant cell, surrounding the cell membrane and forming protective coils within the cell. These coils are active for only a few days, after which they lose vigor and degenerate; the developing orchid then absorbs the nutrient contents. In mature orchids, Mycorrhizae also have roles in nutrient uptake and translocation.

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Building Bridges A plant feeds through the outer surface of its roots. The effect of the Mycorrhizae around the root’s surface serves to expand this surface area in many directions whilst permitting more nutrients to be absorbed and contained within the rhizosphere. In the case of phosphorus—which is difficult for a plant to absorb due to its immobility—it forms bridges that directly seeks out phosphoric sources, sometimes at great distances. In turn, the fungi are able to transform it in a way that is mobile and in an accessible and digestible form for the plant.

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Alongside these Mycorrhizae enable the mineralization of nitrogen and carbon by naturally composting decaying plant matter in the soil and re-delivering it to the plant and surrounding soil as available and useable food sources. strains are grown and colonies applied in Mycorrhiza is a remarkable, situations of low microbial activity such natural phenomena that as barren landscapes with no nutritional connects all growth and life, content or overworked farmland. This has providing for itself and its environfar-reaching possibilities in the area ment “Mycorhiza is a remarkable, and natural phenomena that connects of agriculture and particularly food sustainall growth and life.” production where ing and the introduction of beneficial Mycorregenerating itself through rhizae could assist in sustaining third its myriad connections. world countries and feeding their people. Serious research on the For the hobby grower, strains of Mycworkings of Mycorrhizae orrhizae can be purchased and added to only commenced in the last garden beds and potting mixes to colo40 years. Its many benefits nize and assist in plant development. MY are now known; particular

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HowHydroponic Do Systems Work? by J. Benton Jones, Jr.

PART II

In part one of this series we looked at hydroponic systems that did not utilize rooting mediums. Part two of the series discusses three hydroponic systems that are more complicated in their operational characteristics since a rooting medium is involved. The three hydroponic growing systems discussed in this section have been or are now in wide use for the commercial production of many plant types. They are more complicated in their operational characteristics since a rooting medium is involved, their physio-chemical properties being a significant contributing interacting factor as to how these systems work.

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Some of the primary properties of these substances are their inertness, biological characteristics, water holding capacity, ease of drainage, aeration properties (pore space), volume weight, cation exchange capacity, buffer capacity and intercellular structure. In some instances, mixtures of these substances are used to obtain certain physical or chemical properties that will give a particular volume weight, add to the ease of drainage, improve air porosity, add cation exchange capacity or greater water holding capacity. Besides their physio-chemical properties, some of these substances can be a source of essential elements or potentially toxic substances, therefore, their selection as the rooting medium, or included in a rooting medium mix, can impact plant growth.

Systems that use rooting medium 1

Flood and Drain (aka Ebb and Flow)

With the commercialization of hydroponic growing beginning in the late 1930s, this was the method devised for the growing of vegetable crops such as tomato, cucumber, pepper and lettuce. The system consists of a water-tight rooting bed, nutrient solution storage tank and a nutrient solution delivery/return piping system and pump, as is illustrated in figure one. There is no designed size for the rooting bed vessel, but its depth must be sufficient to allow roots to securely anchor the plants being grown as well as able to hold sufficient water for plant use between flooding events. The storage tank must have sufficient capacity to provide that volume of nutrient solution needed

Figure 1. An illustration of a flood-and-drain hydroponic growing system showing the nutrient solution reservoir and growing medium vessel.

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to completely flood the rooting bed. The pump must have the capacity to quickly move the nutrient solution into the rooting bed, flooding it from below. Following flooding pumping ceases and the nutrient solution drains by gravity back into the storage tank from which it was pumped. Flooding frequency can be either time-based or occurring when water is needed by the plants. Gravel or course sand is the commonly used rooting materials since their volume weight is sufficient to remain in place with nutrient solution flooding. Clean, element- and colloidal-free gravel or course sand can be difficult to find, and if prepared by the grower, requires the use of strong acids and washing facilities. Being a “closed” system, the nutrient solution is re-circulated requiring water volume, pH and level essential element adjustments in order to maintain its initial volume composition as well as filtering to remove suspended materials and sterilization to reduce the potential for root disease occurrence. Following such a routine, it is possible to use the initial formulated nutrient solution over an entire plant cycle.

“Flood and Drain is well suited for use by the home gardener due to its relatively simple design and ease of operation.” With retention of a portion of the nutrient solution in the rooting medium after drainage, precipitates of calcium sulfate and phosphate will begin to form, impacting the nutritional status of the plants. To minimize precipitate formation, the rooting medium can be periodically flushed with water that requires a water delivery and disposal system. For better nutritional control, the nutrient solution would be delivered only periodically during the day; the schedule depending on an established nutritional plant program for the plant species being grown; and then only water applied when needed to keep the plants turgid. More details on nutrient solution formulations for use with this type of hydroponic growing system will be discussed in more detail in the next article in this series. The system is wasteful of water and reagents when the nutrient solution is discarded, and when the rooting bed is periodically leached with water. If the rooting medium is to be reused, removal of the accumulated precipitates will require acid washing and steam sterilization. This method of hydroponic growing is well suited for use by the home gardener due to its relatively simple design and ease of operation, as small home-type systems can be operated without the need for electrical power (figure two).

Figure 2. An illustration of a small home-type flood-and-drain hydroponic growing system showing the nutrient solution reservoir and plant support system with the roots growing on a capillary mat.

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Figure 3. Placement of a dripper (left side of the plant) at the base of a tomato plant being growing in a bag of perlite.

Drip Irrigation

This is the most universally used commercial hydroponic method for the large-scale production of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers. A nutrient solution is delivered to the base of the plant stem rooted in either an inorganic (gravel, sand, perlite, rockwool, volcanic rock) or organic (peat, pinebark, core) media in bags or pots (figure three), or in slabs of either rockwool or coir (figure four). Rockwool slabs are currently the rooting medium of choice with coir slabs replacing rockwool where disposal of used slabs is an issue. This technique has proven to be reliable in terms of plant performance and fairly efficient in its use of water and reagents when operated as an “open” hydroponic system. The nutrient solution is usually formulated with the use of injection pumps, injecting element-containing concentrates into a flow of water. The timing schedule and volume of nutrient solution delivered can significantly affect plant growth; therefore, skill and experience are required to determine these factors for optimum plant performance. A sufficient volume of nutrient solution is delivered at each irrigation so there is a slight outflow at the base of the rooting vessel or slab, requiring collection and proper disposal. At each irrigation, there occurs an elemental accumulation within the retained nutrient solution in the rooting medium that will begin to impact the nutritional status of plants. By monitoring the electrical conductivity (EC) of either the outflow or retained nutrient solution in the rooting medium, water leaching the rooting medium will be required when the EC exceeds a Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

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certain level. Water leaching is costly in terms of water needed and the requirement to collect the leachate for proper disposal. Eventually, precipitates of calcium sulfate and phosphate will form, co-precipitating other elements, precipitates not removed by water leaching. When in contact with plant roots, these precipitates provide another nutrient element source for root absorption. At this point, the plant has three sources of mineral nutrient elements: that in the nutrient solution being applied; that retained in the rooting medium solution; and that existing as precipitates in the rooting medium, resulting in a loss of plant nutrition control. For better nutritional control, the nutrient solution can be delivered only periodically during the day, the schedule depending on an established nutritional plant program for the plant species being grown, and then only water applied when needed to keep the plants turgid. More details on nutrient solution formulations for use with this type of hydroponic growing system will be discussed in more detail in the next article in this series. The design characteristics of the drip delivery system will be determined by the number of discharge points as well as

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Figure 4. Placement of drippers at the base of tomato plants rooted in rockwool cubes that are setting on a rockwool slab.

“Flowers, ornamental foliage plants, lettuce, herbs, strawberries and even tomatoes, peppers and vine crops have been successfully grown in tower systems.” the size and flow rates of drippers. Drippers require constant monitoring to ensure that there is a consistent flow of nutrient solution. Injection pumps require periodic inspection and adjustment to ensure their delivery volume of nutrient element concentrates is consistent. Another form of the drip irrigation method places plants in the corners of buckets, stacked together at a 90 degree angle from each other forming a tower (figure five), or using a large plastic pipe with openings in the sides, large enough to accommodate the plant being grown (figure six). The rooting medium is usually perlite, although other rooting substances can be used. A nutrient solution is introduced either at the top of the tower, or at each plant position, flowing down through the

Figure 5. Stacked-bucket tower hydroponic growing system planted to lettuce (Verti-Gro, Inc., Summerfield, FL)

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rooting medium by gravity. The nutrient solution can be either allowed to flow out of the base of the tower for disposal, or collected and re-circulated. The flow rate and volume of nutrient solution applied will depend on the water demand of the plants. Since the nutrient solution will change in both elemental and oxygen (O2) contents as its flows down the tower (column), the plants at the base of the

tower may be under both oxygen (O2) and elemental stress and grow slower. Therefore, the volume of nutrient solution applied at the top of the tower should be sufficient to minimize this effect. Also this factor of nutrient solution change will be a factor in determining tower height. By placing drippers in each plant-holding opening in the tower or at the corners of stacked buckets the

nutrient solution flow-change effect will be eliminated. Depending on the design (stacked buckets or columns with access pockets), the spacing and size of the plant pockets (openings) in the tower must be adequate to accommodate the plant species being grown. Flowers, ornamental foliage plants, lettuce, herbs, strawberries and even tomatoes, peppers and vine crops have been successfully grown in tower systems. Towers conserve space and allow for a large number of plants to be grown in confined quarters. A tower may require periodic rotation so that all plants receive equal sunlight exposure.

Figure 6. Plastic pipe constructed hydroponic growing tower with the base of the tower serving as the nutrient solution storage tank (Tower-Garden, Anderson, SC).

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Sub-irrigation

Either water or a nutrient solution is delivered to the rooting medium at its base with the maintenance of a constant level of water/nutrient solution in the bottom of the rooting vessel maintained either by hand, adding water/nutrient solution when called for by the position of a float indicator as is required by the the flow of water/nutrient solution from a reservoir into the rooting medium container as shown in figure seven. With this method of growing, all of the water and nutrients supplied are used by the plant, therefore, it is the only hydroponic growing method that does not have to deal with an effluent or the need to discard used water or spent nutrient solution. The rooting medium must have wicking ability sufficient to maintain moisture to a height of at least four to five inches above the water/nutrient solution table. The total depth of rooting medium will depend on the rooting characteristics of

Figure 7. Sub-irrigation hydroponic growing system, nutrient solution supply box on the right, float value housing in the middle and the rooting vessel on the left (Gro-Systems, Anderson, SC).

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the plant species being grown, a depth of seven to nine inches being enough for most plants. For most organic rooting media, fertilizer and lime can be added, sufficient to meet plant nutrient needs so only the addition of water additions is required. For hydroponic systems in which the rooting medium is inert, only dilute nutrient solution formulations are used in order to avoid elemental excess. Nutrient solution formulations for use with this growing system are described in the article following this two part series. Rooting vessels are relatively small and need to be set and maintained on a level so that the water or nutrient solution being introduced is also level over the entire base of the rooting vessel. In long troughs, a pipe is required to dispense nutrient solution evenly in the trough. This system is ideal for use by the home gardener and small commercial grower. Most garden fruit and vegetable plants can be grown using this system. After a plant season’s use, the rooting medium is discarded.

Summary The three hydroponic growing systems requiring media have been or are in wide commercial use today, particularly the drip irrigation method because of its ability to control the delivery of water and a nutrient solution to each individual plant that is not

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Figure 8. EarthBOX for the growing of plants in a soilless medium, with the water being supplied from beneath the rooting medium (The EarthBox, Scranton, PA)

possible with the Flood and Drain and Sub-irrigation methods. The advantage of the Sub-irrigation method as a commercially viable method for the growing of plants in large systems is it’s the only hydroponic method that there is full utilization of MY applied water and plant mineral nutrient elements. A list of the inorganic and organic rooting medium substances is given in Maximum Yield’s online extras at maximumyield.com

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AVANT-GARDENING

Houseplants That Help Us Breathe by Matt LeBannister

It is natural for people to want to improve their surroundings. Everyone wants a bigger house or new furniture. We even buy costly purifiers to improve the air quality in our office and home environments. With office buildings and homes becoming more sealed off from the outside world, air quality can really suffer. Formaldehyde, benzene and trichloroethylene are common air pollutants found in building materials. These trapped pollutants result in what is commonly referred to as “Sick Building Syndrome.” There is hope, however, and it comes in the form of common houseplants like peace lilies, bamboo and spider plants, which can process these gases, removing them from the air. Here are some of the plants known to remove formaldehyde, trichloroethylene and benzene from the air. Each plant can be easily grown at home or in the office. Spathiphyllum “Mauna Loa,” peace lily, removes trichloroethylene and benzene from the air. This plant does not need much light to thrive and has beautiful, large flowers. Chamaedorea sefritzii, bamboo or reed palm, is another great plant to grow indoors that will improve air quality. Bamboo or reed palms are efficient at removing the three air pollutants listed above. This plant thrives in the shade. Bamboo palms grow best in moist conditions and should not be fed any nutrients. These plants can grow three to four feet tall with large serene leaves.

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Hedera helix, English ivy, is a great plant for the home or office. This plant should be potted in a hanging pot or placed somewhere high, because it is a creeping ivy. English ivy is excellent for removing benzene from the atmosphere and thrives in indirect light and possibly shade. Chlorophytum comosum, green spider plant, is a common houseplant that will thrive in nearly any condition, the shade or direct sunlight. Spider plants are most effective at removing formaldehyde from the air and are an excellent addition to any indoor space. These plants do best from hanging pots, which allow their long “spider leg” like leaves to droop downwards. The three aforementioned plants are the most efficient plants for removing airborne pollutants, but there are many more that can effective. Golden pathos, geresa daisies and pot mums are visually appealing and can improve the air quality of any living space. The greater the number and variety of plants in any space, the more likely indoor air pollutants will be removed. Fifteen plants in at least six inch pots will be able the clean the air from a 2,000 square foot space. The importance of plants in our lives does not simply include the outdoor world, but our indoor environment as well. It is not just about looks and appearances or livening up the workplace. It is about our health and maintaining MY clean air that is safe to breathe. Reference: www.cleanairgardening.com

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YOU TELL US

Maximum Yield discusses the latest features in high quality electronic ballasts for indoor gardens, including ignition control and connection awareness, with Alvin Hao, marketing manager for Los Angeles based Solis-Tek.

Maximum Yield (MY): What made you decide to enter the hydroponics industry? Alvin Hao: With the current selection of ballasts available in the market, we feel that Solis-Tek ballasts can bring revolutionary safety features to the industry that will offer more efficient and safer means of lighting an indoor garden.

MY: What products do you have available and what type of grower do they work best for? Alvin: We currently just offer digital ballasts for all levels of indoor gardeners from the hobbyist to the commercial grower. Our premier dimmable electronic ballast series is available in: • 400 watts – allows dimming from 100 per cent, 75 per cent and 50 per cent • 600 watts – allows dimming from 600 watts, 400 watts and 360 watts • 1,000 watts – allows dimming from 1,000 watts, 600 watts and 400 watts 130

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Standard quality testing for every Solis-Tek ballast involves a minimum of three days or 72 hours to ensure a product free of defects

MY: What makes your ballasts unique from the other options available in the market? Alvin: We offer a revolutionary patent pending technology called Ignition Control. This innovative software-based technology allows large gardens (running multiple ballasts) to balance the electrical draw upon ignition to avoid overloading breakers. Solis-Tek ballasts ignite the bulbs at staggered and controlled intervals within a five second timeframe. Our ballasts also offer a soft-start, meaning power eases up to full draw. This

This photo illustrates the internals of the Solis-Tek ballast before the black epoxy resin is applied.

helps conserve the life of the bulb and uses electricity efficiently. Our ballasts are also heavily tested for quality for a minimum of 72 hours (three days). The shape of the ballast shell has a unique design; it has two high points on the outer corners, where the ballast gets hottest, for the most efficient level of cooling. The twin peak ballast design allows for maximum heat transition.

MY: What is Connection Awareness? Alvin: Connection Awareness is another safety feature that our ballast utilizes; it runs a preliminary three second test to ensure all components have a solid connection. It will also detect the signal of the bulb wattage to ensure, for example, that a 400 watt bulb will not be powered when on a 1,000 watt setting. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a safety feature that helps the grower prevent mistakes.

MY: What other safety features do Solis-Tek ballasts offer? Alvin: Aside from the two revolutionary features that Solis-Tek is offering, our ballasts also protect against: open output, short circuit, ignition failure, end of lamp life, overflow current, over/ low voltage and high/low temperatures.

MY: What do modern indoor gardeners need to know about ballasts? Alvin: The modern indoor gardener should know quite a bit of information about ballasts before making an educated selection.

The type of information about ballasts that needs to be considered are things like: safety factors, quality and reliability, lumen output and efficiency. Also, is the ballast energy efficient and versatile? How much sound/vibration and heat does it give off? Is the manufacture ISO certified? How much pre-testing and quality control is done? All of these questions are important and must be considered in order to make an informed and educated purchase decision.

MY: What does Solis-Tek have planned for the future in the way of products and technologies? Alvin: Solis-Tek is a brand focused on providing quality ballasts for indoor garden lighting. We plan to focus on our ballast design and functionality in an effort to make our ballasts even MY more efficient and versatile as possible. Maximum Yield USAâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; |â&#x20AC;&#x201A; September 2010

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Small Scale Hydroponics Methods by Philip McIntosh There are many resources available to growers for learning about and keeping up with new developments in hydroponics. Books, magazines, websites and social networking sites are all places where people find out about new techniques and equipment and learn how to get started and solve problems. Most hydroponic growers installing a growing system choose to implement a version of a well known technology by either building a system according to established principles or by purchasing outright a complete turnkey operation from a commercial supplier. For several reasons, researchers at universities often take a different approach.

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Workers who use the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana have developed many techniques for growing this diminutive and seemingly unremarkable species. Hydroponics is the method of choice in some Arabidopsis labs, and many of the methods can be easily duplicated for little cost. Such methods are suitable for growing other small herbs, for trying out ideas on a small scale before making a major investment or when space is limited. A few of the more interesting methods developed in labs are outlined below. Consult the references for more detailed information.

A Little Background on Arabidopsis

Budgetary constraints are a limiting factor. Grant money is a precious commodity so project leaders are usually careful with their spending. Purchasing an expensive commercial system to support a research program is seldom a first choice. Space is another concern, with most laboratories being crowded full of equipment, instruments and limited bench space. Plants grown for research purposes often must be axenic, meaning they have to be free of contamination with other organisms such as bacteria and fungi. Commercial and hobby systems are not designed to meet this requirement. Scientists and graduate students tend to be a resourceful bunch though, and can often come up with creative and ingenious ways of doing things using scavenged or repurposed equipment, or by using materials that are available for relatively low cost.

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So, what is this plant Arabidopsis thaliana (figure one) and why do so many scientists grow it? Arabidopsis thaliana (mouseear cress or thale cress) is a widely distributed weed in the family Brassicaceae (the mustards) that is of no commercial value. It does, however, have characteristics that make it an ideal organism for genetic and molecular studies. These characteristics include: • A short lifecycle, which proceeds from germination to seed in about six weeks • Small genome consisting of about 157 million base pairs on five chromosomes (compare this to the size of the three billion base pair human genome) • The complete Arabidopsis genome has been sequenced and studied in great detail • The plant is small, takes up little space and is easy to grow • It produces many seeds • A wide variety of well-characterized mutants exist • There is a strong suite of molecular biology techniques available for Arabidopsis • Young plants are translucent, making them ideal for study using light microscopy Although the plant is easily cultured in soil, vermiculite, perlite, on agar and in many other ways, hydroponics is often used because of the precise control and cleanliness of the method or when there is a need to produce clean, undamaged roots for study.

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Methods from Arabidopsis Labs

Centrifuge Tube Method. Most university labs engaged in molecular biology research maintain a stock of plastic centrifuge tubes. Enterprising researchers have adapted these small tubes to construct simple yet efficient hydroponics systems. In one such system, the conicalshaped bottoms of 1.7 ounce centrifuge tubes are cut from full tubes and stuffed with rockwool. These tubes are then simply placed in holes

Grid Support Method. Some Arabidopsis methods employ a metal grid as a seed support.The grid suspends the seeds above the nutrient medium during germination and the roots grow down through the grid into a semi-solid or aqueous nutrient medium. After the plants are about a week old, the entire support grid is transferred “Enterprising researchers have adapted to a flask for [centrifuge] tubes to construct simple further plant yet efficient hydroponics systems.” growth.The number of seeds on a grid can be varied to provide an optimum density, and the grids can easily be transferred to some other vessels besides flasks to continue their lifecycle. Grid support methods are particularly cut into useful for cleanly separating the root the top of a portion of plants from the shoots. It would plastic tub, be useful for small herbs when only the with the shoots are to be harvested, but would not taper of be appropriate for the harvesting of whole the cut tube plants with roots intact. preventing the tubes from sliding all the way through. Seeds can then be sown directly on the top of the wetted rockwool.The only other equipment required is a bubbler (powered by an aquarium pump) placed in the reservoir tub to aerate the nutrient solution. The tubes, raised above the top of the tank lid, are easily handled and can be easily wrapped with foil or some other opaque material to prevent algal growth once the plants have achieved sufficient size. Tub and PVC Test Plug Method. A method devised by researchers in Nevada employs polyethylene tubs as nutrient solution reservoirs, covered with 0.1 inch thick acrylic plastic. Thirty-five holes are cut in the acrylic tops to hold removable 1.5 inch PVC test plugs (also called test caps). A 0.5 inch hole is drilled in each plug to hold a 1.2 inch long cylinder of rockwool. The acrylic tops and the 136

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plugs must be painted with vinyl or epoxy paint to make them completely opaque. The rockwool cylinders are placed in the plugs so that when installed in the tops, they contact the nutrient solution with 2⁄3 of the cylinder above the fluid level. Seeds are placed on top of the rockwool either before or after wetting. The researchers have observed better root development without constant aeration in the reservoir and run an air bubbler in the solution for five minutes every half hour.

Plastic Box and Sponge Method. In a method that is a bit more intricate than the ones previously described, workers at Harvard University have adapted small opaque plastic boxes as reservoirs. Holes that are (0.4 inches) are cut into the box lids, and 0.2 inch wide strips cut from an ordinary kitchen sponge are used as plant supports. For some reason, these researchers choose to germinate the seeds in soil and transfer the seedling to the hydroponic units when they are two to three weeks old. After removing plants from the soil with forceps and washing them with water, a sponge strip is wrapped around each stem at the base of the shoot. The sponge is inserted into a hole in the box lid where it keeps the plant in place with roots suspended in a nutrient solution. Continuous aeration is provided through an air stone connected to a small aquarium pump. The boxes are then placed

“The methods described here use parts readily found in a lab or that can be easily purchased from local stores.” in suitable growing conditions to complete plant development Cucumbers in Trash Cans. Although not developed in an Arabidopsis lab, the trash can method of growing a single cucumber plant certainly qualifies as novel so it is included here. It doesn’t get much simpler than this. According to the authors at the University of Hawaii Extension Service, the only materials required are a plastic trash container (30 to 35 gallon) with lid; hydroponic fertilizer; forestry tube (1.5 inches in diameter by eight inches long); growing medium to fill the forestry tube (may contain at least two of the following: peat, perlite, vermiculite, coir); electric drill with ¼ inch bit; 1.5 inch hole saw; and cucumber seeds. A “forestry tube” is a small cone-shaped vessel used to supply tree seedlings for planting and if one is not available, some other kind of plastic tube can be made to work. The authors claim no aeration is

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This hydroponic method is protected by U.S. Patents 5,385,589 and 5,533,299. This method may be used freely in Hawaii for hobby and educational purposes. In addition, commercial farmers are free to grow crops with this technology in Hawaii. However, permission must be granted from the author for the commercial manufacturing and sale of hydroponic systems utilizing this technology and for selling or licensing this technology within the state of Hawaii, plus these and any commercial uses beyond the state of Hawaii. So, if you are in Hawaii, give it a go. Everyone else—ask permission! The methods described here use parts readily found in a lab or that can be easily purchased from local stores. Hopefully, they will provide inspiration for other ingenious small systems built using on-hand or readily available materials without having to resort to specialized equipment. MY required and suggest not adding more nutrient solution as the level in the container recedes. A trellis is recommended to support the cucumber vine, so it would be practical to place the system near a wall. Unfortunately, the trashcan method is patented! According to the original source:

References • Anonymous; Arabidopsis thaliana page. <http://oregonstate.edu/dept/nursery-weeds/ weedspeciespage/arabidopsis/Arabidopsis_ thaliana_page.html> (Accessed July 14, 2010) • Anonymous; Arabidopsis thaliana, Use as a model organism <http://en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/Arabidopsis_thaliana#Use_as_a_model_ organism> (Accessed July 14, 2010) • Gibeaut, David M., Hulett, John, Cramer, Grant R., and Seeman, Jeffrey R.; Cramer, Maximal biomass of Arabidopsis thaliana using a simple, low maintenance hydroponic method and favorable environmental conditions <http:// www.ag.unr.edu/cramer/hydroponic.html> (Accessed July 12, 2010) • Hétu, Marie-F., Tremblay, Linda J., and Lefebvre. Daniel D.; High root biomass production in anchored Arabidopsis plants grown in axenic sucrose supplemented liquid culture; BioTechniques 39:345-349 (September 2005) • Huttner, D, and Bar-Zvi, D.; An improved, simple, hydroponic method for growing Arabidopsis thaliana; Plant Molecular Biology Reporter 21: 59–63, March 2003 • Kratky, B.A.; Growing hydroponic cucumbers in a plastic trash container; Cooperative Extension Service, College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources, University of Hawai’i at Manoa, Jan. 2003, HG-44 • Zwieniecka, A., Gorska, A., and Lazor, J.; A method for hydroponic culture of Arabidopsis thaliana; <http://zatoichi.huh.harvard. edu/~zwieniecki/methods/Hydroponics/ hydroponics.html> (accessed July 15, 2010)

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Oriental Vegetables

GROWING FOR HEALTH for Autumn by Emma Cooper

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At this time of year, many outdoor growers are winding down their plots. It’s time to clear away tender plants before the first frost, gather in the last of the harvest and make sure the hardy brassicas that can survive the winter weather are protected against marauding pigeons. For indoor gardeners it’s time to get sowing again to ensure exciting and tasty harvests all through the winter. There are plenty of hardy salad vegetables (such as lamb’s lettuce and land cress) that will thrive during the winter season and are much more tender and productive when grown indoors or with some protection. But the real stars of the autumn show are the Oriental vegetables. Like the outdoor winter stars—kale, cabbage and brussels sprouts—many Oriental vegetables are in the brassica family. But the resemblance isn’t obvious and once you start to investigate what’s available you’ll find everything from tender salad leaves right through to sprouting broccoli style plants and spicy stir-fry leaves. And they’ll all grow rapidly, and right through until spring, if you get the timing right. If your growing area is unheated and unlit then you need your plants to do most of their growing during the autumn, before temperatures (and more importantly, light levels) drop too low for them to make active growth. They will then happily sit and stay fresh, providing fresh harvests right through until spring when they will suddenly burst into life again. An early spring harvest is their last gift, before they start to flower and can be removed to make way for spring sowings. With supplementary lighting, of course, they can be kept in active growth all winter. The advantage of sowing Oriental crops during late summer and early autumn is that they’re far less likely to bolt (run to seed early) as the days are waning, so do ensure that you’re not mimicking lengthening days with your lights.

The classic Chinese cabbage that produces a tightly formed head (often pointed) is best sown indoors in August, but there are plenty of other leafy vegetables that can be sown in September and October.

four weeks after sowing, and mizuna is a good plant for giving high yields from small spaces.

Mustard greens

Kailaan is an oriental broccoli, but it produces flowering heads on much smaller plants than purple sprouting broccoli and so is much quicker; you can expect a harvest of young shoots in 20 to 30 days, or you can wait for the plant to mature in 60 to 70 days.

Mustard greens come in a range of different colors and make a very attractive addition to a salad when the leaves are young. Their spicy flavor increases as the leaves mature, and large leaves are more suited to cooked dishes. Mature plants can be large, reaching up to 24 inches depending on the variety.

Pak choi

Oriental Brassicas

Kailaan

Pak choi is a familiar plant to many, in habit very similar to Swiss chard.Young leaves can be harvested individually and used in salad, or again you can leave the plant to mature and harvest the whole thing as a stir-fry vegetable after four to five weeks.

Tatsoi

Tatsoi is a smaller relative, forming low-growing rosettes of glossy green leaves that are shaped like spoons. It can also provide continuous pickings of young leaves for the salad bowl, for stir-fries or to be used as a spinach substitute.

Mizuna

Mizuna is a very attractive plant with lightgreen, feathery leaves. It looks quite similar to rocket and has a peppery flavor that adds a tasty note to salads. Leaves can be harvested when you need them over a period of several months, or you can harvest the whole plant by cutting close to the ground and it will sprout again. The first harvest comes three to

Oriental brassicas vary in size, but the recommended spacing for plants is around 12 to 16 inches (check the seed packet for the spacing for your choices). In the dark days of winter, mildews and fungal diseases are more of an issue so donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t scrimp on spacing as it reduces airflow and increases the risk of disease. It is also important to pay attention to watering (if your plants are growing in soil) as plants that are slow growing in winter have low water requirements and should not be left sitting in cold, wet soil. MY

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2 s d l e i Y Big s e c a p S Small

Bloom

by Lee McCall

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Lee McCall takes us on a journey of discovery as he experiments with soil growing and hydroponics in a comparison between two tomato varieties—Early Girl and Sugar Baby.

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Part 2

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Two weeks have passed since the initial transition from vegetative growth into bloom and for the most part the garden is exhibiting positive characteristics of healthy growth. Based on current progress, the Early Girl variety is definitely holding a steady rank as “queens of the crop” for both the organic soil and hydroponic experiments. Structural growth is dense, foliar tendencies are non-deficient and fruit sites are abundant. I feel the use of diatomite (silica stone) as the primary grow medium in the hydroponic drip buckets are a major contributing factor to the reason the cellular structure and foliar development is so vibrant and hearty. This evidence shows that the beneficial silicate properties are responsible for influencing these physical benefits. Despite the age differences between the two sisters, the Early Girl stationed in soil is not lacking in comparison. Even without beneficial silica, the soil plant has caught up to the hydroponic equivalent and is the healthiest plant in the entire garden. The main difference is the overall mass exuded by the organic Early Girl plant. A distinct difference is visually evident in the cell wall composition of the soil

A sparse and sickly Sugar Baby in soil still shows prolific blooms. The Sugar Baby soil specimen shows pre-flowers days before bloom.

plant compared to the hydroponic one. Basically, the stalk is slightly thicker, sturdier and leaf tissue is meatier. Comparatively speaking, however, the Early Girl in soil outweighs both of the Sugar Baby plants put together, and is even larger than the Early Girl plant in hydro. The green of the soil plant is rich compared to the hydro version, which is slightly lighter in comparison, although not overly dark to indicate over fertilization. It appears that a heavier

presence of nitrogen is available in the soil plant, but not an over abundance that hinders growth. The soil plant foliage is relaxed and not rigid or brittle like many plants that are potentially on the brink of nutrient burn. More internodes also exist than compared to the drip bucket specimen, which is a strong indication that a heavier fruit set per plant is expected. These characteristics defend the concept that natural soil techniques can outperform the incredible hydroponic technology. However, the trial is not over and many factors can alter the outcome at any given time.

The first fruits to appear in the garden are Sugar Baby fruits in hydro.

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A sparse and sickly Sugar Baby in soil still shows prolific blooms. The Sugar Baby soil specimen shows pre-flowers days before bloom.

The Sugar Baby varieties continue to be disappointing throughout the duration of the experiment. Although not completely stunted, the hydro and soil specimens maintain the same deformation as originally indicated during their vegetative growth cycles. The leaf curl is evident on the entirety of both plants; none the less vertical growth and flower formation remains consistent and productive, a very unusual sight that I have never witnessed in a tomato trial. On a positive note, there is still a decent amount of fruit production on the “cherries” (Sugar Baby) as there are on the “slicers” (Early Girl); however, water consumption is approximately 30 per cent less in comparison.

“[The Sugar Baby varieties’] hydro and soil specimens maintain the same deformation as originally indicated during their vegetative growth cycle.” Week 10, Day 64: Fruit sites have emerged from multiple locations all over the garden and the numerous striking yellow blooms are fully open and awaiting pollination. At this point both strains will take on bloom booster additives to supplement the base nutrition formulas in an attempt to promote heavier, tastier yields. The high ratios of phosphorous and potassium present in both nutrient solutions are intended to increase biomass of the fruits, stimulate essential oil production and aromas, and encourage heavier concentrations Striking blooms on the organic Early Girl. of bud sets that have 148

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yet to emerge as new growth develops. The drip buckets receive a synthetic 0-1010 booster in increments of four milliliters per gallon to fuel the immense appetite of the flowering plants. My desired intention is to stimulate the existing fruit set without burning the plants. With this logic in mind, less is always more in terms of diluted nutrient concentrations, especially when using synthetic based formulas. For the organic soil, I’ve chosen a vitamin and mineral rich .5-.1-1 formula derived from plant protein hydrolyslate, rock phosphate and sea kelp. This combination nurtures the root mass and increases nutritional transport throughout the plant, thus improving cluster formation, fruit quality and yield. This particular enhancer, despite being organic, has a powerful effect when added in small increments. Like the hydroponic plants, the same dilution rate of four milliliters per gallon of feed solution is implemented for the soil plants even though there is probably less risk of burn since the formula projects a lower N-P-K percentage than the synthetic booster. The bloom supplements accompany the

Siamese blooms!

original menus for both soil and hydroponics as stated in the previous week starting transition. The hydroponic base formula of grow, micro and bloom, also referred to as “green, brown and pink,” has been customized to a 1-2-3 ratio in exact order. For example, this could equate to one teaspoon of green, two teaspoons of brown and three teaspoons of pink per

gallon of water. Although a full spectrum of nutritional elements are available, phosphorous and potassium dominate both soil and hydroponic solutions to fuel the demand for flowering production. Calcium and magnesium play an intricate role in plant development. A deficiency will usually be revealed at this point during the bloom cycle if there is a lack of these important macronutrients. This is commonly identified from distinct brown

Sugar Baby fruits in hydro after one week of bloom boosters.

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and yellow spotting that occurs on the foliage of the victimized plant. As a result, growth is drastically hindered, blossoms may drop off, and conclusively, yield is negatively influenced come harvest time. Luckily, none of the plants in the garden are exhibiting a cal-mag deficiency, and the number of bloom sites increase almost daily. Microbial activity is visually active in both experiments concluding that the roots are thriving and nutrient uptake is heavy. In the drip buckets, a vast network of healthy white roots has engulfed the top layer of hydroton covering the silica stone and is literally scaling the inside lip of the buckets above the soil line. The density of oxygen produced from the hydroponic operation fuels the microbes present from the compost tea and beneficial inoculants. In the soil

plant containers, small feeder roots will the Early Girl fruits—which are around the size of large marbles—the Sugar appear from the fabric walls, but as the technology intends these roots are airBaby fruits are approximately ¼ inch in diameter. The number of fruits per pruned, which encourages heavier lateral branching. Water consumption demand plant is fairly equal and the addition between of the bloom “Microbial activity is visually active boosters appears the two soil in both experiments concluding to have had a plants is also different positive effect that the roots are thriving and making it since added nutrient uptake is heavy.” twice as a week prior. much work to mix nutrients and apply This garden is progressing nicely feedings at different intervals. Every 48 and at a quick rate. The consistent hours approximately three gallons of use of enzymes are keeping the root nutrient solution are consumed by the zone clean and helping the plant Early Girl soil plant sitting in five gallons digest the available buffet of food in of organic mix. The Sugar Baby is slower the rhizosphere. The assortment of to feed probably due to the evident carbohydrates derived from malt syrup, leaf curl disease negatively affecting plant grade molasses and raw cane nutritional uptake. sugar will encourage flavor profiles and bulking as well. The more the plants Week 11, Day 71: grow, the higher the humidity levels get. The plethora of preMore foliage equals more transpiration flowers has now evolved and water transport, but by increasing into miniature green ventilation temperatures are still fruits. Surprisingly, the comfortable, but not too cool. I prefer a diseased Sugar Baby warmer environment to keep metabolic growing in the drip rates more active, but attention is bucket is the first plant crucial so as not to burn the garden or to show a distinct swell cause drought. in fruit size on a day-toProgressing through the bloom cycle day basis. Compared to the garden comes closer to a hopefully heavy harvest. Next month’s edition will finalize fruit development, ripening techniques and determine if small spaces can achieve big yields. MY

Rampant roots.

This Sugar Baby is healthy, dense and perfect in bloom despite disease early on.

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Properly stored tomato seeds can last for quite awhile and can still produce impressive yields up to five years after being first dried. These guidelines make saving tomato seeds a cinch and the tips that follow will ensure you save only the best seeds.

by Therese Cressman

HOW TO

TIPS & TRICKS

TIPS Cut tomatoes in half then squeeze out the pulp and seeds into a clear glass container (wide mouth Mason jar or small bowl for example). Add a couple tablespoons of water (double the amount if there isn’t much juice) then cover the jar or container with a piece of cheesecloth (a coffee filter will work well too), secure in place with an elastic band.

“Allow [seeds] to dry for about a week to 10 days.” Leave the container to sit at room temperature for about four or five days until you notice a layer of white scum/mold form on the top (this process is fermenting the seeds). Skim off the white scum then pour seeds into a large bowl, fill with cool water and let sit for a minute or two. Pour off the water, keeping the seeds that are resting on the bottom and allowing the ones floating on top to pour off (the ones floating on top are not viable seeds). Pour the saved seeds into a fine sieve or strainer and rinse under cool running water until the seeds are clean and no pulp or gel remains (stir the seeds and shake the sieve while doing this to help speed up the process). Tap the sieve a few times to remove excess water then pour the seeds onto a paper plate or coffee filter. Arrange the seeds so that they are in a single layer. Allow to dry for about a week to 10 days, stirring the seeds every day gently with your finger to help promote an even drying process. Once they’re fully dry, store the seeds in a glass jar (sealed), envelope or seed packets and keep them in a cool, dark location until you are ready to use them.

• You’ll find the best tomatoes to save seeds from are heirloom tomatoes rather than hybrids. Hybrids are typically the ones you purchase in grocery stores and regular greenhouse seedlings. Once you make your initial purchase of heirlooms, you’ll be able to save plenty of seeds year after year. Farmers markets are a great place to find ready to eat (and ready to seed) heirloom tomatoes. • Don’t mix the seeds from different varieties; make sure to save only one variety of tomatoes per container. If saving more than one variety, make sure to label the container.Wash all tools and hands well before moving on to the next variety.

• Select healthy and prized specimens that are really ripe for the best seeds; this will give you a better chance of preserving quality seeds for next season’s crop. • Removing all the gel/coating from the seeds before drying is necessary because this is what prevents the seeds from germinating.

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PRODUCT spotlight

Continued from page 44

See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.

GGL Penetrator High Intensity Reflector _________________________ Like the sun’s light reaches through the depths of space, Global Greenhouse Lighting’s Penetrator high intensity reflector has a unique design focusing high intensity light for deep canopy penetration. Designed in Holland and tested by master gardeners in Humboldt County, GGL Penetrator reflectors are built by gardeners for gardeners. Using premium components GGL created a reflector that works with both HPS and MH lamps, includes a socket with 15 foot cord, universal plug and is available in both conventional and six inch air cooled. For more information visit an indoor gardening shop near you.

Vital Earth’s® Organic Compost OMRI™ Performance in a Bottle – Bloom Flower A & B ___________________ This four part grow and flower nutrient is easy to use and pH stabilized. Yellow bottle Bloom Flower A & B is designed to perform in any growing medium including coco. Chelated elements are available through broad a pH range. Use one teaspoon per quart throughout the grower and flower cycle. Visit your favorite hydroponics retailer for more information.

Vital Earth’s® Organic OMRI™ Compost is made from a recycled all natural blend of leaves, grass, plant clippings, brush and woody materials from the Rogue Valley in Southern Oregon. Vital Earth’s® Organic Compost OMRI™ makes plant nutrients more readily available during all stages of growth and flowering. Vital Earth’s® Organic Compost is a soil conditioner that aids in the fertility of the soil, and helps to retain moisture in soil. Vital Earth’s® Organic Compost OMRI™ is also excellent in compost tea and as a top dressing. For more information visit an organic gardening shop.

Cleaning Solutions from Deep Water Innovations ________ Deep Water Innovations Cleaning Solutions are environmentally sound and effective for all your greenhouse and indoor gardening needs. Horti-Clean can be used on everything from plastic to stainless steel. Removes film easily from plastic trays, reservoirs and all your greenhouse or grow room tools. Horti-Clean also comes in a convenient spray bottle for easy application. Revitalizer has been formulated specifically to clean air diffusers. Simply soak your stone of shield for a few hours; rinse clean and your diffusers will continue to work like new for many years. Visit an authorized Hydrofarm retailer MY for more information.

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TALKING SHOP

AT A GLANCE The “bearded bunch” (and one apprentice) from left: Brian Keenan, Jake Keenan (Brian’s son) Dan Michael and Alejandro "Hondo" Jaramillo.

Store name: Olympic Hydroponics Supply LLC Owner: Brian Keenan Location: 1530 South Nevada Ave. Colorado Springs, CO Phone: (719) 635-5859 Email: kbjlkeenan@comcast.net Web: www.daytonhydroponics.com Motto: “ Your home for indoor and outdoor gardening.”

Brian Keenan, owner of Olympic Hydroponic Supply, started growing hydroponically in the 1990s. At the time, there wasn’t much information available on the topic. Almost two decades later, the hydro scene in Colorado finally exploded as did the available information thanks to the internet and a bevy of new manufacturers on the scene. That’s when Brian decided it was time to get in on the action in a meaningful way. He opened up Olympic Hydroponic Supply December 1, 2009. Down on South Nevada Avenue in Colorado Springs, Colorado, Brian Keenan and his three bearded brothers—Dan Michael, Alejandro “Hondo” Jaramillo and Jake Keenan (AKA Brian’s son and hydro novice)—of Olympic Hydroponic Supply are arguing over who has the best facial hair. “Facial hair is a pretty big thing out here in the Rockies,” Brian points out. As the heated debate winds down, the guys agree to disagree. A unanimous decision, they award best facial hair to their favorite musician, Warren Haynes, guitarist for Government Mule— who is watching over the shop from a jet-black picture frame. The scorching summer sun paints rainbows on their faces as it streams through the shop’s doublewide windows. Extreme temperatures are typical of COlife. If it isn’t a blistering summer, it’s a brutal, and frost bitten winter. And it’s Colorado’s unique climate that the keen, green team at Olympic cater to. “There are better ways for the Colorado gardener to grow,” said storeowner Brian. “A lot of misinformation floats around on the internet and it doesn’t really work for [growing] here.” The guys help their customers weed through the plethora of information directed at gardeners in Florida, New York, Washington and California, all with vastly different climates than Colorado.

Information Participation Brian decided on the name Olympic to signify strength—of community, of knowledge—and longevity in the industry. “The name has a sense of strength to it, and that is what we feel our knowledge of indoor gardening has.” 158

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Dan and Hondo are equally knowledgeable in the ways of modern gardening techniques. Dan’s knowledge of indoor and hydroponic gardening spans more than 17 years. Hondo has been growing for about eight years. “They really know their stuff,” praises Brian. Brian thinks of the shop as an information-sharing center where likeminded individuals come to connect and customers feel at ease discussing their challenges and successes. Dan, Hondo and Brian are always quick to offer suggestions and safer solutions for growing in Colorado’s high altitudes and low humidity. But they are equally keen on hearing their customers’ input. “We don’t think we know everything; we keep our ears open for new ideas.” The reality is 20 urban gardeners grow 20 different ways, Brian said. “The best way to do anything is to offer as much information as possible, and create a program that works best for you.”

Good Vibes Knowledge is just one aspect of the supreme service Olympic offers. Every product line sold in Olympic Hydroponic Supply is backed by the team’s “feel good” guarantee, stating they’ve used the products and have the utmost confidence in them. “We love them and we’re happy to promote [products] that help make you a better grower.”

Some of the team’s current favorites are House and Garden's Roots Excelurator, Sentinel CHHC-4, Great White’s Mycorrhizae, Powerbox products and Foxfarm’s Ocean Forest and Light Warrior. Customers don’t just keep coming back for an awesome education and “feel good” guaranteed products; the friendly atmosphere and positive experience are also a huge draw. “Prime customer service is how we roll whether you spend a dollar or more,” Brian said. “Times are tough and we respect the money you spend here.” At the end of the day, they look at their customers’ successes as their own. Their priority is to provide their customers with the tools they need to improve their indoor gardening skills. Brian, Dan, Hondo and Jake take that priority to heart. Working in an indoor gardening store when you simply love to garden indoors is pretty awesome. The team enjoys helping people take their grow to the next level. It also affords them the opportunity to stay updated on industry advancements. The hydroponics industry has come a long way since the 90s and is moving forward in a positive direction. The product options are virtually limitless. We’re living in the age of information and hands-on education and people are beginning to recognize the importance of where their food comes from and how it’s grown. “We’re excited about the direction [the industry] is heading and thrilled to be at MY the center of it all.” Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

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Plant Propagation Discovering Rooting Hormones by Matt LeBannister

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Understanding how rooting hormones work, what forms they come in and how to properly apply them to cuttings is essential for rooting success. Read on to learn the benefits of liquid rooting success. Read on to learn the benefits of liquid, gel and powder rooting hormones, including a natural weeping willow remedy.

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Plant Propagation - Discovering Rooting Hormones When your plant exhibits a favorable characteristic, you want to replicate that strainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trait in successive generations. For instance, a chili pepper strain may be super flavorful or a tomato strain might provide a large yield. In order to ensure exact genetic copies of these super performing strains are reproduced in future plants, gardeners usually rely on cloning where cuttings are taken from a healthy mother plant. When taking cuttings there are certain measures you can take to ensure successful rooting. Gardeners have the option of using humidity domes and root zone heating mats to speed up the rooting process of cuttings; another successful practice involves using rooting hormones. These hormones, known as auxins, are naturally available in the plant and are entirely necessary for cuttings to root successfully. When homemade or commercial rooting hormones are applied to the site of the cutting, the auxin levels are boosted. This process leads to an improvement in the speed at which cuttings root and a general increase in the overall survival rate of the cuttings. Rooting hormones play a crucial role in the lifecycle of every plant that has been cloned via a mother plant cutting. It is

important when using any product to truly understand how it can benefit your garden. When a cutting is taken the plant must change in order to survive. The plant must stop producing green stem cells at the source of the cut and begin producCutting ready for liquid rooting hormone. ing undifferentiated cells, which will eventually turn into root cells. Once cuttings have been also a concern that adding too much rootplaced into the growing medium their ing compound to a cutting can actually undifferentiated cells will form calluses at slow down the rooting process or even halt the source of the cut. The use of rooting it entirely. This means that the rooting horhormones will quicken the development mones need to be applied in correct doses of the undifferentiated plant cells and always in regard to the specific strength hasten the formation of the calluses on the and form of the hormone. cuttings. This allows the root cells to apCommercial rooting hormones are pear sooner and results in healthy, vigorous available as a liquid, gel or powder. Each root growth. type has its own instructions, but there are There is some controversy as to whether general rules one can follow to ensure the it is beneficial to the cutting to be dipped hormone is applied correctly. in rooting hormone prior to planting. Liquid This stems from the fact that plant cutThe liquid versions of rooting hormones tings produce these rooting hormones, or are usually diluted in water before applicaauxins, on their own and essentially can tion. The dilution rate can vary depending root easily without the outside influence on the concentration of each product, so of commercial rooting hormones. There is follow the directions on the labels carefully. If the hormones get mixed too strongly in the water, then the cuttings dipped in the compound will probably have difficulty rooting. Once the rooting hormone is mixed at the correct rate, the bottom inch of the cutting should be submerged for five to 20 seconds then placed directly

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Gel Applying the gel form of commercial rooting hormones involves no diluting of the product ahead of time, for they are ready to dip. To avoid contaminaThe bottom inch of a cutting should be submerged in tion of the main supply liquid rooting hormone for five to 20 seconds. of rooting hormone it is best to put a small amount, into the growing medium. If cutting are enough for the number of cuttings you exposed to air too long before planting, need, in a separate container. Dip the air may be sucked into the stem, which blocks the transport of vital liquids in the plant and will kill your cuttings as a result.

bottom inch of the cutting into the gel and make sure it covers the area evenly. The great thing about using a gel version of the rooting hormone is that once it has been applied to the cutting it seals the wound from the air. Many of the commercial gel rooting hormones— available at your local gardening shop— also contain fungicides. This will help prevent damping off fungi that will rot the stems of young cuttings and kill them in 24 hours.

Powder The last type of rooting hormone is powder and it is probably the hardest to work with. This is because it can be hard to get just the right amount of the granular to stay on the end of the cutting once dipped. Powder versions of rooting hormones are also difficult to work with because it is very easy to over apply and stunt the root growth. The best way to ensure that the grains actually stick evenly to the cutting is to first dip the cutting an inch into water then into the powdered hormone. Like the previous forms of rooting hormone, it is best to only put enough of any compound in a separate container. This will keep your powdered rooting hormone fresh and free of contaminants.

Cuttings dipped in powdered rooting hormones should be evenly covered on the bottom inch of the cutting. Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

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Plant Propagation - Discovering Rooting Hormones Here is a great natural approach for those gardeners out there who prefer to do things themselves. An easy to use, homemade rooting hormone can be derived from the weeping willow tree. The weeping willow tree contains an aspirin-like compound that when mixed with water can promote root growth 10 to 20 per cent more than just with plain water. To make your own weeping willow water rooting hormone first collect inch thick branches from a weeping willow

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tree. Cut up the branches into inch long The cuttings then need to be soaked in pieces and soak them in water for 24 this solution for 24 hours before being hours. Once soaked, drain the willow planted. Cuttings need to be soaked for water into a separate container to strain a long time for the weaker willow water out all the solution to “The weeping willow tree contains an chunks of be absorbed. weeping wil- aspirin-like compound that when mixed with The benefit low branches. water can promote root growth 10 to 20 per of using the cent more than just with plain water.” The resultweaker willow ing brew is water solution somewhat of a weak strength liquid rootis that there is little risk of over saturation, ing hormone. which ensures the cuttings root quickly and their roots grow healthy and fast. For cuttings to successfully root, certain expectations need to be met. Light, temperature and humidity all factor in the successful rooting of any cutting. What really allows plants to be cloned through the cutting process is rooting hormones. Natural hormones in the plant, as well as the rooting hormones that are commercially available, cause green stems cell to become undifferentiated cells. The plant then forms a callus at which time the formation of root cells begin. The commercial rooting hormone compounds simply quicken the process and give the cutting a certain edge when developing roots if properly applied. They can give the opposite effect and hinder root growth when over applied. Weight the pros and cons or simply put the method to the test by growing cuttings with and without rooting hormones side-by-side and measure the results yourself. For this is truly the only way to really know whether a product works for you. MY

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COMING UP IN october

Who Needs Organics?

Urban gardeners around the world can hone their skills for the day when small scale food production takes its rightful place in the food chain and becomes a prestigious and lucrative activity.

Demystifying Nutrient Solutions

The objective of this article is to provide the reader with an understanding of to how to formulate and use a nutrient solution for a hydroponic growing system.

Maddening Mildew

Powdery mildew, a frustrating and oftentimes reoccurring disease, can be conquered. This article helps you understand how it develops, how it spreads and defines exactly what you’re up against.

The Cost of Sunlight

Unlike most agricultural inputs, the sun’s energy is generally left off the balance sheet, as farmers usually assume that sunlight has no monetary cost. However, agricultural utilization of sunlight is far from free. So, what is the true cost of sunlight?

www.maximumyield.com will be available October 1 for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across USA and on maximumyield.com I N D O O R

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G A R D E N I N G

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DO YOU

know? 7

9 1

2 3

4 5 6

Less heat lowers the kinetic energy of the air and water molecules in a grow environment so that they move slower and stay in the contained area. This leads to a more stable humidity level.

The tops of onion bulbs are like giant chives or giant green onions and can be harvested for use in soups, salads and other dishes.

The soft mineral gypsum—composed of calcium sulfate dehydrate—is not very soluble in water so when it is applied, only a small amount of calcium is available to the plant.

The term hydroponics was introduced in 1937 in Science magazine by U.S. practitioner Dr. William Gericke.

Pines and other forest trees often grow poorly or cannot survive in the absence of the Mycorrhizae.

Plants need different wavelengths during different phases of growth. For example, plants benefit from the red spectrum during the flowering phase.

In chemistry the term organic means the material contains carbon. In the organic foods world the term organic refers to foods produced without pesticides, synthetic substances, sewage products and other restrictions.

Arbuscular Mycorrhizae and are able to fully penetrate and grow within a plant’s cell and extend from within. The host plant allows this to happen by changing its own physiological chemistry to adapt to the DNA profile of the Mycorrhizae.

There is concern that adding too much rooting compound to a cutting can actually slow down the rooting process or even halt it entirely.

Plants that have had genes from a bacteria inserted into them so that the crop can create its own insecticide are known as transgenic, simply having DNA from another material.

Arabidopsis thaliana (mouse-ear cress or thale cress) is an ideal organism for genetic and molecular studies due to its short lifecycle, small genome, small size and translucency, among other traits.

A grow room needs at least 20 to 30 air changes per hour in order to maintain ideal humidity levels.

Drip irrigation is the most universally used commercial hydroponic method for the large-scale production of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers.

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

ALABAMA Alabama Organics 3348 Bethel Road, Valley Head, AL 35989 256-635-0802

ALASKA Brown’s Electrical Supply 365 Industrial Way, Anchorage, AK 99501 907-272-2259 Far North Garden Supply 300 Centaur Street, Wasilla, AK 99654 907-376-7586 Far North Garden Supply 2834 Boniface Parkway Anchorage, AK 99504 907-333-3141 Holmtown Nursery Inc. 1301 - 30th Avenue, Fairbanks, AK 99701 907-451-8733

ARIZONA ACI Hydroponics 1325 South Park Lane, Tempe, AZ 85282 800-633-2137 Homegrown Hydroponics 601 East Broadway Road, Tempe, AZ 85282 480-377-9096 Homegrown Hydroponics 1702 East Prince Road, Tucson, AZ 85719 520-323-1212 Natural Pools & Gardens 2143 North Country Suite C, Tucson, AZ 85716 520-323-2627 Sea of Green Hydroponics 1301 E. University Dr. Tempe AZ, 85281 800-266-4136 Sea of Green West 2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116, Phoenix, AZ 85023 602-504-8842 Sea of Green Hydroponics 402 North 4th Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-622-6344

ARKANSAS Fermentables 3915 Crutcher Street, N. Little Rock, AR 72118 501-758-6261 Mickey’s Mercantile 1303 Highway 65 South, Clinton, AR 72031 501-412-0214 Old Soul Organics and More 1771 Crossover Road, Fayetteville, AR 72701 479-444-6955

CALIFORNIA 3rd Street Hydroponics 636 3rd Street Oakland, CA 94607 510-452-5521 805 Hydroponics & Organics 1785 E. Thousand Oaks Boulevard Thousand Oaks, CA 91362 805-494-1785 A+ Hydroponics & Organics 1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 949-642-7776

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A Fertile World (Eureka) 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-0200 A Fertile World (Fortuna) 610 7th Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-0700 Abundant Hydroponics LLC 1611 Shop Street, #1-A, South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-54 HYDRO Advanced Garden Supply 2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard, Building C, Unit 9, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-4769 Advanced Garden Supply 3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F, Cameron Park, CA 95682, 530-676-2100 Advanced Hydroponics 17808 Sierra Highway, Canyon Country, CA 91351 661-299-1603 AG Natural 403 Idaho Maryland Road, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-274 0990 All Seasons Hydroponics 17614 Chatsworth Street, Granada Hills, CA 91344 818-368-4388 Alternative Hydro 3870 East, Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91107 888-50-HYDRO Always Sunny Hydroponics 708 W. Swain Road Stockton, CA 95207 209-473-9827 Always Sunny Hydroponics 2511 West LN. Stockton, CA 95205 209-939-0660 All Ways Hydro 2220 Eastridge Ave. Suite C Riverside CA 92507 888-HYDRO98 American Hydroponics 286 South G Street, Arcata, CA 95521 800-458-6543 America’s Best Hydroponics & Gardening Center 641 W. Palmdale Blvd. Unit D Palmdale, CA 93551 661-266-3906 Anthony’s Garden & Lighting Supply 30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9 Sutter Creek, CA 95685 209-267-5416 Anything Grows 10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C, Truckee, CA 96161 530-582-0479 Art of Hydro 2636 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd. Thousand Oaks, CA 91362 805-230-2227 Atlantis Garden Supply 2851 A Whipple Road, Union City, CA 94587 510-487-8007 Atwater Hydroponics 3350 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90039 323-663-8881 Auburn Organic 4035 Grass Valley Highway, Auburn, CA 95602 530-823-8900

B & S Gardening Supplies 590 Commerce Court, Manteca, CA 95336 209-239-8648 Bakersfield Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 Bare Roots Hydroponics 1615 East Cypress, #5 Redding, CA 96002 530-244-2215 Beginning Hydroponics PO Box 1232, Corona, CA 92787 951-735-4446 Berkeley Indoor Garden 844 University Avenue Berkeley, CA 94710 510-549-2918 Berkeley’s Secret Garden 921 University Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710 510-486-0117 Best Coast Growers 4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C, San Diego, CA 92120 800-827-1876 Best Yield Garden Supply 3503 West Temple Avenue, Unit A, Pomona, CA 91768 909-839-0505 Better Choice Hydroponics 610 S. Washington Street, Senora, CA 95370 209 533 2400 Better Grow Hydro Pasadena 1271 E. Colorado Boulevard, Pasedena, CA 91106 626 737 6612 Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles 5554 Bandini Boulevard, Bell, CA 91106 323-510-2700; 877 640 GROW Box Of Rain Inc. Po Box 302, Rexford, CA 59930 406-755-7245 Brentwood Hydroponics & Organics 560 Valdry Ct #85 Brentwood, CA 94513 925-634-6704 BWGS West 2247 North Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291 888-316-1306 California Hydro Garden 1043 South Glendora Avenue, Suite A West Covina, CA 91790 626-813-0868 California Hydroponics 310 Coral Street, Suite C Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-423-4769 Calwest Hydroponics 11620 Sterling Avenue, Suite A Riverside, CA 92503 800-301-9009 Central Coast Hydrogarden 1951 Santa Barbara Street, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805-544-GROW Citrus Heights Hydrogarden 8043 Greenback Lane Citrus Heights, CA 95610 916-728-4769 City Farm Hydroponics 8903 Laurel Canyon Boulevard, Sun Valley, CA 91352 818-767-2076

City Farmer’s Nursery 4832 Home Avenue, San Diego, CA 92105 619-284-6358 Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply 43 Soda Bay Road, Lakeport, CA 95453 707-263-4000 CNG Garden Supplies 22 Ricknbacker Circle, Livermore, CA 94551 209-836-5550 Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics 116 West Orangeburg Avenue, Modesto, CA 95350 209-567-0590 Concord Indoor Garden 2771 Clayton Road, Concord, CA 94519 925-671-2520 Conejo Hydroponics 3481 Old Conejo Road #106 Newbury Park, CA 91320 805-480-9596 Conrad Hydroponics Inc. 14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive, Clearlake, CA 95422 707-994 3264 Constantly Growing 6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite A Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-642-9710 Constantly Growing 4343 Hazel Avenue, Fair Oaks, CA 95628 916-962-0043 Constantly Growing - Davis 123 D Street Davis, CA 95616 530-756-4774 D&S Garden Supplies 17-130 Doolittle Drive San Leandro, CA 94577 510-430-8589 Dazey’s Supply 3082 Redwood Drive, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3002 Direct Hydroponics Wholesale 14228 Alberts Way, Chino, CA 91710 909-606-5885 Dirt Cheap Hydroponics 17975 H Highway 1, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-964-4211 Discount Hydroponics 4745 Hiers Avenue, Riverside, CA 92505 877-476-9487 Dr. Greenthumbs Hydroponic Garden Supplies 566 San Ramon Valley Blvd. Danville, CA 94526 925-314-9376 Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply 164 Dinsmore Drive, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-726-0395 El Centro Hydro & Brew Supply Inc. 591 main Street, Suite N-2 El Centro, CA 92243 760-235-4985 Elite Horticulture Supply 22330 Sherman Way, C13, Canoga Park, CA 91303 818-347-5172 Emerald Garden 8249 Archibald Avenue, Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730 909-466-3796 Emerald Garden 13325 South Highway 101, Hopland, CA 95482 707-744-8300 Emerald Garden 307 East Perkins Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-463-2510

Endless Green Hydroponics 25 Enterprise Court, Suite 3 Napa, CA 94558 707-254-0200 Evergreen Hydroponics 923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B, Upland, CA 91786 909-946-7100 Everything Green Hydroponics 915 Texas Street, Fairfield, CA 94533 707-432-0774 Everything Green 448 Georgia Street, Vallejo, CA 94590 707-647-0774 Extreme Hydroponics 11479 San Fernando Road C, San Fernando, CA 91340 818-898-0915 EZ Green Hydroponics 7017 Reseda Boulevard, Reseda, CA 91335 818-776-9076 Farm Hydroponics, The 1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-3276 Flairform 1751 S Pointe Avenue, Ontario, CA 91761 213-596-8820 Flower Hut Nursery 603 4th Street Wheatland, CA 95692 530-633-4526 Foothill Hydroponics 10705 Burbank Boulevard, N. Hollywood, CA 91601 818-760-0688 Foothills Hydrogarden 3133 Penryn Road, Penryn, CA 95663 916-270-2413 Full Sun Supply 3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3 Santa Rosa, CA 95403 877-FULL-SUN Funny Farms Hydroponics 963 Transport Way, #12 Petaluma, CA 94954 707-775-3111 G & G Organics and Hydroponics 901 W. Victoria Street Unit D, Compton, CA 90220 310-632-0122 Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2 Chico, CA 95928 530-342-7762 Garden Depot, The 203 Commerce Street, Suite 101 Lodi, CA 95240 209-339-9950 Garden Highway Garden Supply 598 Garden Highway #22 Yuba City, CA 95991 530-755-2877 Garden Shed, The 1136 El Camino Real San Carlos, CA 650-508-8600 Garden Spout, The 44800 Highway 101, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-7260 Garden Spout, The 630 S. Main Street, Willits, CA 95490 707-456-0196 Garden Warehouse 6355 Scarlet Court, #2, Dublin, CA 94568 925-556-3319 Gardening Unlimited 60 Old El Pueblo Road, Scotts Valley, CA 95066 831-457-1236

Go Big Hydroponics 4501 Van Nuys Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91403 818-789-3341 Go Green Hydroponics 15721 Ventura Boulevard, Encino, CA 91436 818-990-1198 Golden Gecko Garden Center, The 4665 Marshall Road, Garden Valley, CA 95633 530-333-2394 Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply 8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48, Stockton, CA 95210 209-951-3550 Gonzo Grow 2550 Guerneville Road, Suite C, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-546-1800 Gottagrow Garden Supply 769 Wilson Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 707-544-7782 Grass Roots Hydroponics 31875 Corydon, Suite 130 Lake Elsinore, CA 92530 951-245-2390 Grass Valley Hydrogarden 12506 Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-477-2996 Green Acres Hydroponics 1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180, Sacramento, CA 95834 916-419-4394 Green Coast Hydroponics 3560 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805-898-9922 Green Coast Hydroponics 2405 Mira Mar Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-627-5636 Green Coast Hydroponics 496 Meats Avenue Orange, CA 92865 714-974-4769 Green Coast Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Green Door Hydro and Solar 830 Traction Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90013 212-625-1323 Greenfire Sacramento 3230 Auburn Boulevard, Sacramento, CA 95821 916-485-8023 Green Giant Hydroponics 7183 Hwy 49 Unit B Lotus CA 95651 530 622 4465 Green Gopher Garden Supply 679 Redwood Avenue, Suite A, Sand City, CA 93955 831-899-0203 Green Joint Ventures 61 Tarp Circle, Salinas, CA 93901 831-998-8628 Green Lady Hydroponics 4879 Newport Avenue, San Diego, CA 92107 619-222-5011 GreenLeaf Hydroponics 2212 Artesia Boulevard, Redondo Beach, CA 90278 310-374-2585 Green Light Hydroponics 2615 Honolula Ave. Montrose, CA 91020 818-640-2623 Green Logic Garden Supply 860 Piner Road, #38, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 707-843-3156

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Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply 1480 South E. Street, Suite D, San Bernardino, CA 92408 909-885-5919 Green Thumb Hydroponics 35 Quinta Court, Suite B, Sacramento, CA 95823 916-689-6464 Green Thumb Lighting & Garden 1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5, Torrance, CA 90501 888-326-GROW Greentrees Hydroponics Inc. 2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit D Vista, CA 92081 760-598-7551 GreenWay Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Grodan Inc. 5152 Commerce Avenue, Moorpark, CA 93021 541-646-8245 Gro More Garden Supply 2937 Larkin Avenue, Clovis, CA 93021 541-646-8245 Grow It Right Aquaponics POB 552, Eureka, CA 95502 707-407-6519 Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego 1591 N. Cuyamaca Street, El Cajon, CA 93612 619-749-6777 Growers Choice Hydroponics 1100 Carver Road, Modesto, CA 95350 209-522-2727 Growers Choice Hydroponics 16754 East 14th Street, San Leandro, CA 94578 510-278-6200 Grow It Yourself Gardens 401 Sunset Drive, Suite L, Antioch, CA 94509 925-755-GROW Grow Light Express 5318 East Second Street suite 164, Long Beach, CA 90803 888-318-GROW Grow Your Own 3401 Traval Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-731-2115 Grow Zone 718 Willow Rd. Menlo Park CA 94025 650-326-4769 Grow Wurks Hydroponics 765 S. State College Boulevard. Suite J Fullerton, CA 92831 Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics 12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C, Riverside, CA 92503 877-468-7974 H20 Gardening 355 West 7th Street, San Pedro, CA 90731 310-514-1416 Hahn’s Lighting 260 E. VA Suite 1, San Jose, CA 95112 408-295-1755 Harvest Hydroponics 6650 Merchandise Way Suite B, Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-622-5190 Healthy Harvest Hydroponics and Organics 2958 S. Higuera St. San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805.596.0430

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High Desert Hydroponics 13631 Pawnee Road, #7 Apple Valley, CA 92308 760-247-2090 High Street Hydro 180 Cleveland Avenue, Auburn, CA 95603 530-885-5888 Hi-Tech Gardening 5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-4710 Hollywood Hydroponics and Organics 5109 1/2 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105 323-662-1908 Home Brews & Gardens 3176 Thorn St San Diego, CA 92104 619 630 2739 Home Life Hydroponics and Organics 1745 East Vista Way, Vista, CA 92084 760-643-2150 Hooked Up Hydroponics 339 S. Golden State Boulevard, Turlock, CA 95380 209-668-1300 House of Hydro 224 Weller Street, #B, Petaluma, CA 94952 707-762-4769 Humboldt Electronics 2547 California Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-9408 Humboldt Hydroponics 1302 Union Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-4304 Humboldt Hydroponics 2174 Pine Street, Redding, CA 96001 530-241-7454 Humboldt Hydroponics 601 I Street, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-3377 Humboldt Hydroponics 2010 Tunnel Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-1402 Humboldt Nutrients 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 888-420-7770 Hydroasis 2643 S. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90232 888-355-4769 Hydrobrew 1319 South Coast Highway, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-966-1885; 877-966-GROW Hydro Depot 5665 Redwood Drive, #B, Rohnert Park, CA 94928 707-584-2384 Hydrogarden Delight 13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577 510-903-1808 Hydrogarden Mendocino County 1240 North Main Street, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-962-9252 Hydro International 7935 Alabama Avenue Canoga Park, CA 91304 Hydro King 105 Hartnell Avenue, Suite C and D, Redding, CA 96002 888-822-8941

Hydro King 2540 South Whitman Place, Chico, CA 959282 530-893-GROW (4769) Hydro-Logic Purification Systems 2825 Mattison Lane, Suite 103, Santa Cruz, CA 95065 888 H2O LOGIC Hydronation 2491 Boatman Drive, Suite B West Sacramento, CA 95691 916-372-4444 HydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 351 C Hastings Av., Ukiah, CA 95482 707-467-0400 Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The 1995 Evans Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124 415-824-9376 Hydroponics 4 Less 41669 Winchester Avenue, Temecula, CA 92590 800-A1-HYDRO Hydroponics Market 15816 Arminta St Van Nuys, CA 91406 818-305-6261 Hydroponics Plus 2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite C Concord, CA 94520 925-691-7615 Hydroponics Unlimited 641 W. Palmdale Blvd. “D” Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-3906 Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics 1307 W. Sixth Street, #211, Corona, CA 92882 951-479-8069 Igrow Hydro 2280 Veatch Street, Oroville, CA 95965 530-534-4476 Igrow Hydro 9000 Atkinson Street, Roseville, CA 95678 916-773-4476 Inland Empire Hydrogarden 1301-C South State Street, San Jancinto, CA 92853 886-72-HYDRO Inland Empire Hydrogarden 28822 Old Town Front St. #206 Temecula, CA 92590 886-74-HYDRO Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS) 7922-B Miramar Road, San Diego, CA 92126 858-578-IGS7 Kaweah Grower Supply 1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way, Visalia, CA 93293 559-625-4937 Kern Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B, Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 La Habra 1301 S Beach Boulevard, La Habra, CA 90631 562-947-8383 LAX Hydro 10912 S. La Cienaga Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90304 310-337-6995 Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics ‘N’ More 14626 East Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90605 562-945-0909 Let it Grow 1228 2nd Street, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-9086

Let it Grow 160 Westwood Center, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-8733 Liquid Gardens 21752 Devonshire Street, Chatsworth, CA 91311 818-718-7624 Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics 1772 Clark Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-498-9525 Los Angeles Hydroponics and Organics 3007-3009 W. Artesia Blvd. Torrance, CA 90504 310-323-4937 Lumatek Digital Ballasts 33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite B Novato, CA 94949 415-233-4273 M&M Garden Supply 2509 West Lane, Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 209-939-0664 M&M Garden Supply 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 Marin Hydroponics 1219 Grant Avenue, Novato, CA 94945 415-897-2197 Medicine Man Farms 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Mendocino Garden Shop PO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1), Mendocino, CA 95460 707-937-3459 Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply 900 East School Way, Redwood Valley, CA 95470 707-485-0668 Merced Hydroponics 1809 East 21st Street, Merced, CA 95340 209-726-4769 M.G.S. 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, Hayward, CA 94541 510-582-0900 Mighty Garden Supply 4780 Mission Gorge Pl. #A-1, San Diego, CA 92120 619-287-3238 Modern Gardens 26620 Valley Center Dr. Santa Clarita, CA 91351 661-513-4733 Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply 224B Reindollar Avenue, Marina, CA 93933 831-38-HYDRO Monterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics 81 Hangar Way, #1, Watsonville, CA 95076 831-761-9999 Myron L Company 2450 Impala Drive, Carlsband, CA 9210-7226 760-438-2021 Mystic Gardens 8484 Florin Road, #110, Sacramento, CA 95828 916-381-2464 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 1950 C South Grove Avenue, Ontario, CA 91761 888-888-3319 Natural Pest Controls 8320 B Hazel Avenue, Orangevale, CA 95662 916-726-0855 Nature’s Secret Garden and Supply 41469 Albrae Street, Fremont, CA 94577 510-623-8393

New Leaf Hydro 34150 123rd Street, Parablossom, CA 93553 661-944-2226 NorCal Creations PO Box 28, Cedar Ridge, CA 95924 Nor Cal Hydroponics 4837 Geary Boulevard, San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 60 West 4th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-9999 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 357 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-5550 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 1070 Highway 101, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-1200 Northcoast Hydrogardens 3450 North State Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-462-7214 No Stress Hydroponics 7543 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90046 323-845-9874 Nutes Int’l 204 N Quarantina Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93103 805-687-6699 One Stop Hydroponics 12822 Victory Boulevard North Hollywood, CA 91606 818-980-5855 Oracle Garden Supply 5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100 San Diego, CA 92121 858-558-6006 Orange County Hydroponics 12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H, Stanton, CA 90680 714-893-9493 Organic Bountea 1919 Dennis Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 800-798-0765 Orville Organic Gardens 5250 Olive Hwy Ste 1 Oroville, CA 95966 530-589-9950 Orsa Organix 111 Willow Street, Redwood City, CA 94063 650-369-1269 Pacific Beach Hydroponics 1852 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, CA 92109 858-274-2559 Pacific Coast Hydroponics 4147 Sepulveda Boulevard, Culver City, CA 90230 310-313-1354 Pacific Garden Supply 128 H Carlos Drive, San Rafael, CA 94903 Pacifica Hydroponics 90 Eureka Square Pacifica, CA 94044 650-355-5100 Palm Springs Hydroponics 4651 Ramon Road, Palm Springs, CA 92264 760-327-ROOT Plant It Earth 2279 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94114 415-626-5082 Plant Life 32 Race Street, San Jose, CA 95126 408-283-9191 Plant-N-Grow 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456

Precision Hydroponics 132 Kennedy Avenue, Campbell, CA 95008 408-866-8176 Probiotic Solutions 20889 Geyserville Avenue, Geyserville, CA 95441 707-354-4342 Pro Gardening Systems 3715 Santa Rosa Avenue #2, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-585-8633 Pro Gardening Systems 4936 Highway 12, Santa Rosa, CA 95472 707-538-8402 Pro Gardening Systems 765 Petaluma Avenue, Sebastopol, CA 95472 707-829-7252 Redway Feed Garden and Pet Supply 290 Briceland Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-2765 Redwood Garden Supply 55 Myers Avenue, Myers Flat, CA 95554 707-943-1515 Reforestation Technologies International 1341 Daton Street, Units G&I Salinas, CA 93901 831-424-1494; 800-RTI-GROW RH Distribution 1751 S. Pointe Avenue Ontario, CA 91761 888-545-8112 Roots Grow Supply 1330 North Hulbert, #101 Fresno, CA 93728 559-840-0122 Roots Grow Supply 40091 Enterprise Dr. Oakhurst CA 93644 559 683 6622 Sac Hydroponics 9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite C Sacramento, CA 95827 916-369-7968 San Diego Hydroponics East County 11649 Riverside Drive, Suite 141, Lakeside, CA 92040 619-562-3276 San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities 4122 Napier Street, San Diego, CA 92110 619-276-0657 San Diego Hydroponics North 802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108 San Marcos, CA 92069 760-510-1444 San Francisco Hydro 123 Tenth Street, San Francisco, CA 94103 San Rafael Hydroponics 1417 Fourth Sreet San Rafael, CA 94901 415 455 9655 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West Side 815 Almar Avenue, Unit K, Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-466-9000 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East Side 4000 Cordelia Lane Soquel, CA 95073 831-475-9900 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North 6241 Graham Hill Road, Felton, CA 95018 831-335-9990 Santee Hydroponics 7973A Mission Gorge Road, Santee, CA 92071 619-270-8649 SB Hydro 1109 W. 190th Street, Unit #F, Gardena, CA 90248 310-538-5788

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

177

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Seaside Hydrogarden 1070 Highway 101 North, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-465-3520 Shadow Valley Aquatics 75 Kimick Way, Red Bluff, CA 96080 530-526-0479 Skywide Import & Export Ltd. 5900 Lemon Hill Avenue, Sacramento, CA 95824 916-383-2369 Socal Hydroponics 1727-B Oceanside Boulevard, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-439-1084 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - Mtn. View 569 East Evelyn Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94041 650-968-4070 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose 1185 South Bascom Avenue, San Jose, CA 95128 408-292-4040 South County Hydroponics 22511 Aspan Street, Suite E Lake Forest, CA 92630 949-837-8252 South Valley Hydroponics 320 Kishimura Drive, #3 Gilroy, CA 95020 1-866-848-GROW Southern Humbolt Garden Supplies 34919 Yucaipa Boulevard, Yucaipa, CA 92399 909-797-6888 Sparetime Supply 208 E. San Francisco Avenue, Willits, CA 95490-4006 707-459-6791 Specialty Garden Center 1970 East Vista Way, Suite 10, Vista, CA 92084 760-758-4769 Stop N Grow 340 Pine Avenue, Goleta, CA 93003 805-685-3000 Stop N Grow 4160 Market Street, Unit 11 Ventura, CA 93003 805-639-9489 Stop N Grow 640 S. Frontage Road, Nipomo, CA 93444 805-619-5125 Sun-In Hydroponics 1257A Cleveland Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-578-5747 Sunland Hydroponics 8300 Foothill Boulevard, Sunland, CA 91040 818-352-5300 Sunland Hydroponics 4136 Eagle Rock Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90065 323-254-2800 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 850 Shasta Avenue, Suite B Morro Bay, CA 93442 805-772-5869 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2 Paso Robles, CA 93446 805-434-2333 Super Starts PO Box 732, Bellmont, CA 94002 650-346-8009

178

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Surf City Hydroponics 7319 Warner Street, Suite B Huntington Beach, CA 92647 714-847-7900 Sweet Leaf Hydroponics 1611 Sebastobol Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-575-GROW (4237) Sylvandale Gardens 1151 Evergreen Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3606 Tahoe Garden Supply 645 Westlake Boulevard, Suite 2, PO Box 487 Tahoe City, CA 96145 530-581-3200 Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening 62 Sutherland Drive, Auburn, CA 95603 530-889-8171 The Green Shop 66420 Mooney Boulevard, Suite 1 Visalia, CA 93277 559-688-4200 The Hydro Source 671 E. Edna Place Covina, CA 91723 877 HYDRO 82; 626-915-3128 The Hydro Shop 3980 Saco Road Bakersfield, CA 661-399-3336 The Shop 6542 Front Street, Forestville, CA 95436 707-887-2280 The Urban Farmer Store 653 E. Blithedale Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 94941 415-380-3840 The Urban Farmer Store 2833 Vicente Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-661-2204 The Urban Farmer Store 2121 San Joaquin Street, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-1604 Thrive Hydroponics 70 A West North Street, Healdsburg, CA 95446 707-433-4068 Thunders Hydroponic Center 1729 Yosemite Boulevard, Medesco, CA 95354 TNC Supply 9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763 Upper Lake, CA 95485 707-275-9565 Tower Garden Supply & Organic Nursery 403 W. Olive Avenue, Fresno, CA 93728 559-495-1140 Tradewinds Wholesale Garden Supplies 1235 Striker Avenue #180, Sacramento, CA 95834 888-557-8896 Tulare County Growers Supply 435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A, Farmersville, CA 93223 559-732-8247 Turbo Grow 1889 San Pablo Avenue, Pinole, CA 94564 510-724-1291 Two Chix Garden Supply 1230 Yuba Street, Marysville, CA 95901 530-923-2536 Quail Mountain Ranch 230 Palm Ave Auburn, CA 95603 530-889-2390

Ultra Lo Hydro ultralohydro.com 937-252-4769 Under The Sun 12638 Foothill Boulevard, Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423 707-998-GROW (4769) Urban Gardens 22516 Ventura Boulevard, Woodland Hills, CA 91364 818-876-0222 Urban Gardens Unlimited 704 Filbert Street, San Francisco, CA 94133 415-421-4769 US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies 1621 South Rose Avenue, Oxnard, CA 93033 805-247-0086 Valley Garden Solutions Inc. 15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104, North Hills, CA 91345 818-336-0041 Valley Hydroponics 6632 N Blackstone Avenue, Unit B Fresno, CA 93710 559-449-0426 Vital Landscaping Inc. 12817 Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-273-3187 Wai Kula Hydrogardens 5297 Linda Vista Road, San Diego, CA 92110 619-299-7299 Weather Top Nursery 44901 Harmon Drive, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-6385 We Grow Hydroponics 3350 East Los Angeles Avenue, Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-624-4566 West Coast Growers Hydroponics 13481 Colifax Highway, Grass Valley, CA 95945 888-924-4769 West Coast Hydroponics, Inc. 27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 949-348-2424 Western Auto 1156 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-1189

COLORADO Bath Nursery & Garden Center 2000 E. Prospect, Fort Collins, CO 80525 970-484-5022 Big Tomato, The 14440 E. 6th Avenue, Aurora, CO 80011 303-364-4769 Big Tomato, The 3000 Main Avenue, Durango, CO 81301 970-375-1238 Boulder Hydroponics 1630 N. 63rd Street, #5, Boulder, CO 80301 303-415-0045 BWGS CO 11685 E. 55th Avenue Denver, CO 80239 888-316-1306 Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics 7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120A, Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 303-954-9897

Deep Roots Garden Supply 1790 Airport Road, Unit 1 Breckenridge, CO 80424 970-453-1440 Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center 6810 North Broadway, Unit D Denver, CO 80221 303-650-0091 Desert Bloom Hydroponics 445 Pitkin Avenue, Grand Junction, CO 81501 970-245-6427 Ever Green Hydroponics Inc. 1131 Francis Street, Suite A, Longmont, CO 80501 303-682-6435 Family Hydroponics-Boulder 2125 32nd Street Boulder, co 80301 303-996-6100 Garden Tech 737 Garden of the Gods Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-278-9777 Go Green Hydro 1005 Caprice Drive, Castle Rock, CO 80109 303-688-0599 Greeley Nutrients 700 11th Street Unit 101 Greeley CO 80631 970 673 8302 Greenhouse Tech 917 East Fillmore, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-634-0637 GroWize 3225 S. Wadsworth Boulevard, Lakewood, CO 80227 303-986-2706 Grow Store South, The 5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37, Englewood, CO 80110 303-738-0202 Grow Store, The 8644 W. Colfax Avenue, Lakewood, CO 80215 888-510-0350 GWS Hydroponics 7025 Highway 82 Building 4B, Glenwood Springs, CO 81601 970-384-2040 Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium 34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9, North Edwards, CO 81632 970-569-3139 Hydro Grow Supply 644 Peterson Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80915 719-596-2600 Hydro Planet 711 Washington Avenue, Golden, CO 80401 303-279-6090 Hydro Shack, The 220 Main Street, Suite E Frisco, CO 80443 970-668-0359 Indoor Garden Warehouse 8100 S Akron St., Suite 322, Centennial, CO 80112 720-496-2110 Indoor Paradise Hydroponics 309 S. Summit View, Unit 17, Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462 970-221-3751 J&D Organic Growing Solutions 217 1/2 Clayton Street Brush, CO 80723 970-310-5408 Lyons Indoor Gardening 138 Main Street, Lyons, CO 80540 720-530-3828 Mile High Hydroponics 37 Strong St. Brighton, CO 80601 303 637 0069

Olympic Hydroponics Supply LLC. 1530 S Nevada Avenue, Colorado Springs, CO 80906 719-635-5859 Polar Ray 5171 Eldorado Springs Dr. Boulder, CO 80303 303 494 5773 Primo Gardens 1600 North Ave. Suite B Grand Junction, CO 81501 970-241-1209 Rocky Mountain Hydroponics and Organics 15985 S. Golden Road Golden, CO 80401 720-475-1725 Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics 7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3D Denver, CO 80221 303-428-5020 Roll-N-Green Farms Horticultural Supply 25797 Conifer Rd #A-8 Conifer, Co 80433 303-838-5520 The Grow Outlet 4272 Lowell Boulevard Denver, CO 80211 303-586-5543 Ultra Lo Hydro ultralohydro.com 937-252-4769 Way To Grow 301 East 57th Ave. Denver, CO 80216 303-296-7900 Way To Grow 3201 E. Mulberry Street, Fort Collins, CO 80524 970-484-4769 Way To Grow 6395 Gunpark Drive, Boulder, CO 80301 303-473-4769

CONNECTICUT Harvest Moon Hydroponics 775 Silver Lane, East Hartford, CT 06118 860-568-4067 LiquidSun® CT 10C South Main Street, East Windsor, CT 06088 860-254-5757 Organix Hydroponics 749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza) Middletown, CT 06457 860-343-1923

FLORIDA 3D Hydroponics and Organics 7139 US Highway #19, New Port Richey, FL 34652 727-847-3491 Absolute Hydroponic Garden Center Inc 1607 Old Daytona Steet Deland, FL 32724 386-734-0696 Advanced Hydro Gardens 4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4, Miami, FL 33014 866-97-HYDRO Atlantic Hydroponics 430 Count Street, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-1535 Best Hydro 4920 Lena Road, Bradenton, FL 34211 941-756-1928 Blossoms Experience, The 7207 NW 54th Street, Miami, FL 33166 866-452-4769 Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies 946 18th Avenue SW, Vero Beach, FL 32962 772-564-8880

East Coast Hydroponics & Organics 461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105 Coca, FL 32922 321-243-6800 Eden Garden Supply 5044 N. Palafox Street, Pensacola, FL 32505 850-439-1299 Esposito Garden Center 2743 Capital Circle NE, Tallahassee, FL 32308 850-386-2114 Falero Hardware & Hydroponics 6758 W. Flager Street, Miami, FL 33144 305-266-8878 Florida Garden Supplies 2692 W 79 Street, Hialeah, FL 33016 1-800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8020 Belvedere Road, Unit 4, West Palm Beach, FL 33411 800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8442 Tradeport Drive, Unit 200, Orlando, FL 32827 800-931-5215 Future Farms Inc., The 14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105 Miami, FL 33186 305-382-2757 Gardener’s Edge Gainesville 5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13, Gainesville, FL 32605 352-375-2769 Gold Coast Hydroponics 1539 SW 21st Avenue, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312 1-800-780-7371 Gold Coast Hydroponics 4241 SW 71st Avenue, Miami, FL 33155 1-800-780-6805 Grace’s Hydro-Organic Garden Center 8877 North 56th Street Tampa, FL 33617 813-514-9376 Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies 13482 North Cleveland Avenue, Fort Meyers, FL 33903 239-997-4769 GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc. 5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104 Davie, FL 33314 954-316-8815 Green Winters Inc. 147 Tomoka Avenue, Ormond Beach, FL 32174 386-235-8730 Grower's Choice & Hydroponics 11855 North Main Street, Jackonsonville, FL 32218 904-683-4517 Growing Garden Inc., The 12811 SW 42nd Street, Miami, FL 33175 305-559-0309 GrowSmart Indoor Garden Centers 14587 Southern Boulevard, Loxahatchee, FL 33470 561-429-3527 Harvest Time Hydroponics 14414 N. Florida Avenue, Tampa, FL 33613 813-264-7101 Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc. 196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F, Pensacola, FL 32534 850-912-4545 High Tech Garden Supply 2975 West New Haven Avenue, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-0853 Hydro For Less 9545 Southwest 72nd Street, Miami, FL 33173 305-598-4311

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

179

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Hydroponics International Inc. 7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 904-693-6554 Hydroponics of Tampa 120 W. Bougain Villea, Tampa, FL 33612 813-333-6828 Hydro Terra Corp. 924 North Federal Highway, Hollywood, FL 33020 954-920-0889 Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc. 968 N. Congress Avenue, West Palm Beach, FL 33409 561-296-6161 Simply Hydroponics & Organics 7949 Ulmerton Road, Largo, FL 33773 727-531-5355 Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North) 3642 South Suncoast Boulevard, Homosassa, FL 34448 352-628-2655 Stoney Hydro @ Schiro's Barn n Garden Supplies 7812 Causeway Boulevard, Tampa, FL 33619 813-626-0902 Urban Organics & Hydroponics 5325 Fairmont Street, Jacksonville, FL 32207 904-398-8012 Urban Sunshine 6142 S. Orange Ave Orlando, FL 32809 407-859-7728 Urban Sunshine 6100 Hanging Moss Rd ste 500 Orlando, FL 32807 407-647-4769 Urban Sunshine 1420 E. Altamonte Dr. Altamonte Springs, FL 32701 407-830-4769 VitaOrganix 7921 NW 67th St Miami, FL 33166 786 845 8633 Worm’s Way Florida 4412 North 56th Street, Tampa, FL 33610 800-283-9676; 813-621-1792

GEORGIA Atlantis Hydroponics 1422 Woodmont Lane, #4, Atlanta, GA 30318 404-367-0052 Atlantis Hydroponics 2561 West Point Avenue, College Park, GA 30337 678-510-0032 Flora Hydroponics Inc. 2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600 Athens, GA 30607 866-404-0551 Savannah Hydroponics & Organics 4107 Eighth Street, Suite C Garden City, GA 31408 912-349-4030

HAWAII Aqua Plant Hawaii / Kahala Hydroponics 4224 Wailae, Suite 1A, Honolulu, HI 96816 808-735-8665 Eco-Island Supply 810 Haiku Road, #394 Haiku, HI 96708 808-575-9171 Green Hands of Aloha 1713 Mary Street, Honolulu, HI 96819 808-847-4263

180

Maximum Yield USA | September 2010

Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply 300 Hukilike Street, #2M, Kahalui, HI 96732 808-871-6393 Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer 15-2754 Old Government Road, Pahoa, HI 96778 808-965-9955

Water Works Indoor Gardening 1900 South Dirksen Parkway, Springfield, IL 62703 217-553-6929

INDIANA BWGS 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-316-1306 Five Point Gardens 56555 Oak Road, South Bend, IN 46619 574-287-9232 Frogs Lilly Pad, The 706 Citation Road, Carmel, IN 46032 317-846-4610 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 4200 S. East Street, Indianapolis, IN 46227 317-780-8070 Hops & Harvest 4616 E. DuPont Road, Suite Q, Fort Wayne, IN 46825 260-918-3035 Magic Bulb Garden Center 6229 Allisonville Road, Indianapolis, IN 46220 317-202-2852 Sunleaves Garden Products 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 888-464-9676 Worm’s Way Indiana 7850 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-598-8158

IDAHO Boise Hydroponics 614 North Orchard Street, Boise, ID 83706 208-344-3053 Greenthumb Greenhouses 5895 Ensign Avenue, Boise, ID 83714

ILLINOIS Aerostar Global 824 South Kay Avenue, Addison, IL 60101 Alternative Garden Supply 615 Industrial Drive, Unit A Cary, IL 60013 800-444-2837 Big Grow Hydroponics 9225 Trinity Drive, Lake In The Hills, IL 60156 847-854-4450 Brew and Grow 359 W. Irving Park Road Unit E, Roselle, IL 60172 630-894-4885 Brew and Grow 3625 N. Kedzi Avenue, Chicago, IL 60618 773-463-7430 Brew and Grow 3224 South Alpine Road, Rockford, IL 61109 815-874-5700 Brew and Grow 2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60440 630-771-0555 Brew and Grow 181 Crossroads Parkway, Bolingbrook, IL 60194 847-885-8282 Fertile Ground 463 West MacArthur Drive, Cottage Hills, IL 62018 618-259-5500 Goldman's Grow Shop 910 Greenwood Road, Glenview, IL 60025 847-657-7250 Green Fields 8137 N. Milwaukee, Niles, IL 60714 847-965-5056 Grow Big Hydroponics 7817 B North 2nd Street, Manchesney Park, IL 61115 815-637-4769 Hydrocork 20647 Renwick Road, Crest Hill, IL 60435 815-838-0100 Kreation’s Indoor Gardening Center 3427 Old Chatman Road, Springfield, IL 62704 217-341-0821 Let it Grow - Carbondale West Main Street, Carbondale, IL 62908 573-450-5401 Prairie House Garden Center 15151 South Harlem Avenue, Orland, IL 60462 708-687-3131

KANSAS Green Circle Hydroponics 6890 W. 105th Street, Overland Park, KS 66212 913-642-3888

KENTUCKY

Inc.

Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Shop, The of Lexington 2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130, Lexington, KY 40509 859-268-0779 Louisville Hydroponics 3471 Taylor Boulevard, Louisville, KY 40215 502-366-4000 New Earth Garden Center 9810 Taylorsville Road, Louisville, KY 40299 800-462-5953 Worm’s Way Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088

LOUISIANA Geaux Hydroponics! 2126 O’Neal Lane, Baton Rouge, LA 70816 225-751-4769 Laughing Buddha Nursery 4516 Clearview Parkway, Metairie, LA 70006 504-887-4336 Ourcrazydeals Hydroponics 201 Angus Drive, Yungsville, LA 70592 337-303-6146 Urban Organics 285 St. Claude Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70117 504-352-4709

MAINE Green Thumb Indoor Gardening 19 Stage Road, St. Albans, ME 04971 207-938-5909 Greenlife Garden Supply 611 US Rt. 1 York, ME 03909 978 262 9966 Urban Garden Center 235 Lewiston Road, Toposhan, ME 04086 207-373-0990

MARYLAND East Coast Organics 2800 Sisson Street, Baltimore, MD 21211 Healthy Gardens and Supply 5001-F Harford Road, Baltimore, MD 21214 443-708-5144 Maryland Hydroponics Inc. 10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723 301-490-9236 Maryland Hydroponics Inc. 12130 Nebel Street, Rockville, MD 20852 240-551-4625 Meadowview Feed & Garden Center 1202 Meadowview Road, Pasadena, MD 21122 443-817-0018 Purple Mountain Organics 100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue, Takoma Park, MD 20912 877-538-9901

MASSACHUSETTS Greenlife Garden Supply 481 Boston Road, Unit 4, Billerica, MA 01821 978-262-9966 Green Path Garden Supply 276 West Main Street, Northborough, MA 01532 508-393-4181 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 29 Washington Street, Route 1 Foxboro, MA 02035 800-660-6977 LiquidSun® MA 8 Lynwood Avenue, Holyoke, MA 01040 413-539-6875 New England Hydroponics 15 D Coolege Hwy. (Rt. 10), Southampton, MA 01073 888-529-9025 Worm’s Way Massachusetts 121 Worc-Providence Turnpike, Sutton, MA 01590 800-284-9676

MICHIGAN BIg Creek Hydroponics 555 Old Little Lake Road, Marquette, MI 49855 906-249-5297 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 23529 Little Mack Avenue, St. Clair, MI 48080 586-775-9485 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 6540 Allen Road, Allen Park, MI 48101 313-383-1766 Cultivation Station 3 Inc. 46912 Gratiot, Chesterfield, MI 48051 586-949-7453 Flo-N-Grow. 214 N. 2nd Street, Niles, MI 49120 269-683-1877 Gro Blue Indoor Gardening Supplies 270 W. Liberty Street, Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-913-2750

Grow Store, The 721 W. Blue Star Drive, Traverse City, MI 49684 231-421-5191 Growco Garden Supply 1042 Michigan Street, NE, Grand Rapids, MI 49503 877-939-6900 Growing Consultant 2260 Apple Avenue, Muskegon, MI 49442 231-773-5600 High Tech Garden Supply 7889 Telegraph Road. Taylor, MI 48180 313-908-7554 Holland Hydroponic Outlet 587-40 East 8th Street Holland, MI 49423 616-298-7395 Home Grown Hydroponics 8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C, Saginaw MI 48609 989-781-1930 Homelight Gardens 3471 S. Huron Road, Bay City, MI 48706 989-922-0088 Horizen Hydroponics 1614 Leonard Street, NW, Grand Rapids, MI 49504 866-791-1664 Horizen Hydroponics 4646 W. Main Street, Kalamazoo, MI 49006 269-567-3333 HotHydro® 5245 Jackson Road, Suite F Ann Arbor, MI 48103 734-761-5040; 877-893-0716 Hydroharrys.com 24500 Dequindre, Warren, MI 48091 800-461-8819 Hydro Heaven 73647 W 8th Mile Road, Detroit, MI 48235 313-861-0333; 877-823-2076 Hydro Grow, The 8210 Telegraph Road, Taylor, MI 48180 313-633-0641 Hydrospot 34236 Michigan Avenue, Wayne, MI 48184 734-722-1285 Indoor Garden Superstore 2570 Dixie Highway, Waterford Twp., MI 48328 248-673-2200; 877 22 HYDRO J&L Growco 206 S. Michigan Avenue, Big Rapids, MI 49307 231-796-1528 Kalamazoo Indoor Garden 450 W. Maple, Kalamazoo, MI 49001 269-344-2550 Light Green Water 3661 Highland Road, Waterford, MI 48329 248-681-0001 Stealth Hydro 15 E. Cross Street, Ypsilanti, MI 48198 866-998-1916 Sunnyside Hydroponics 24930 Gratiot Avenue, Eastpoint, MI 48021 586-777-2528 Sunshine Supply Co. 5800 East Pickard Street, Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858 989-775-3700 Superior Growers Supply 19582 Middlebelt Road, Livonia, MI 48152 248-473-0450

Superior Growers Supply 4870 Dawn Avenue, East Lansing, MI 48823 517-332-2663 Ultra Lo Hydro ultralohydro.com 937-252-4769 Urban Gardening Center, The 2520 22nd Street, Detroit, MI 48216 313-898-0200 Van Hydro 7480 N State, Davison, MI 48423 810-653-8267 Wild Child 7740 M 72 East, Traverse City, MI 49690 866-711-GROW

MINNESOTA American Garden Supply 601-6th Avenue, North, Princeton, MN 55371 763-631-0543 Brew and Grow 8179 University Avenue, Fridley, MN 55432 612-780-8191 Duluth Hydroponics 26 W 1st Street Duluth, MN 55802 218-341-7253 Eco Garden Supply 800 Transfer Door 25 in rear St. Paul, MN 55114 651-647-1896 Eden Indoor Organic Gardens 831 Highway 75 North Moorhead, MN 56560 218-477-EDEN (3336) Indoor Gardening 10 NE 3rd Street, Faribault, MN 55021 507-209-1546 Interior Gardens 115 -1620 Central Avenue NE, Minneapolis, MN 55413 800-498-4178; 612-870-9077 Midwest Hydroponics 3440 Belt Line Boulevard, Suite A, Minneapolis, MN 55416 888-449-2739 Still-H2O Inc. 14375 North 60th Street, Stillwater, MN 55082 651-351-2822

MISSISSIPPI Indoor Garden Shop LLC 1310 Bienville Boulevard, Ocean Springs, MS 39564 228-875-3725

MISSOURI Divine Hydroponics 301 North Bishop Avenue, Rolla, MO 65401 573-426-2348 Grow Your Own Hydroponics 3617 Saint John Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64123 816-241-2122 Green Circle Hydroponics 12 East Missouri, Kansas City, MO 64106 816-421-1840 Green Thumb Organics 249 Mid Rivers Mall Drive, St. Peters, MO 63376 636-397-4769 (GROW) Heartland Hydrogardens 705 Vandiver Drive, Suite G Columbia, MO 65202 HYDROGARDENS 573-474-4769 Let It Grow - Springfield 2519 E. Kearney Street, Springfield, MO 65803 417-862-GROW

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Let It Grow - Girardeau 879 S. Kings Highway, Cape Girardeau, MO 63703 573-803-0628 U-Grow 1724 North, 13th Street, St. Louis, MO 63106 314-452-6368 Worm’s Way Missouri 1225 North Warson Road, St. Louis, MO 63132 800-285-9676

MONTANA Alpengrow Nursery Supplies 238 Highway 93 S., Eureka, MT 59917 406-882-4496 Bizzy Beez LLP 5875 Highway 93 S, Whitefish, MT 59937 406-863-9937 Big Sky Garden Supply 528 West Idaho, Kallispell, MT 59901 406-755-1465 Cornucopia Grow Your Own 127 Stoner Creek Road Lakeside, MT 59922 406-709-1076 Dr. Green Thumbs 1106 West Park, Livingston, MO 59047 406-222-7440 Heightened Harvests 2018 Main Street #4, Billings, MT 59105 406-252-4311 Heightened Harvests 3103 Harrison Avenue, Suite B Butte, MT 59701

NEBRASKA Advanced Hydro-Ponics 10711 Mockingbird Drive, Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q) 402-991-6630 Paradigm Gardens 8949 J Street, Suite 5, Omaha, NE 68127 402-339-4949 Patio-Ponics 3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4 Lincoln, NE 68504 402-466-9218

NEVADA AAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter 2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21, Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-450-4769 Advanced Gardens Hydroponics 3111 South Valley View, (on Desert Inn West of Valley View) Suite V103 Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-257-4769 All American Hydroponics 2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8, Las Vegas, NV 89120 702-894-9888 Anything Grows 190 West Moana Lane, Reno, NV 89509 775-828-1460 Best Hydroponic Supply 6818 W Cheyenne, Las Vegas, NV 89108 702-750-9300 Carson Valley Hydroponics 2520 Empire Ranch Road, Carson City, NV 89701 775-884-4769

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Hydro Store, The 7145 W. Ann Road, Las Vegas, NV 89130 702-434-9376 Hydro Store, The 1014 W. Sunset Road, Henderson, NV 89014 702-434-7365 Lorraine Ink 290 Spear Court, Fernley, NV 89408 775-575-7757 Nevada Hydroponics 4700 B Maryland, Suite 1, Las Vegas, NV 89119 702-798-2852

NEW HAMPSHIRE Hydro World 17 White Birch Lane, Lincoln, NH 03251 603-745-3030

NEW JERSEY 77HYDRO 37 Fairfield Place, West Caldwell, NJ 07006 877-774-9376 Claraqua 4 Redwood Court, West Windsor, NJ 08550 East Coast Horticultural Supply 1652 Hurffville Road, Swewell, NJ 08080 856-228-5290 Garden State Hydroponics 511 Avenel Street, Avenel, NJ 07001 888-300-8711 Green Touch 2 Hydroponics Inc. 888 Route 33, Unit 1, Hamilton, NJ 08619 HYDROPONIC S 609-570-8829

greentouch2

NEW MEXICO AHL Year Round Garden Supply 1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 505-255-3677 AHL Year Round Garden Supply 9421 Coors Blvd. NW Suite K, Albuquerque, NM 87114 505-899-0592 All Seasons Gardening 3600 Osuna Road, Suite 406 Alburquerque, NM 87109 505-508-4292 All Seasons Gardening 1228 Parkway, Suite E Sante Fe, NM 87507 505-438-GROW Common Shaman 1319 San Mateo N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87110 505-255-6463

NEW YORK Bronx Hydro & Garden 39 Bruckner Boulevard, Bronx, NY 10454 718-993-3787 Brooklyn Farms 521 Hicks Street Brooklyn, NY 11231 347-725-3491 California Hydroponics 27 Corporate Circle, East Syracuse, NY 13057 315-432-9387 East Coast Hydroponics 14649 Horace Harding Exp, Flushing, NY 11367 718-762-8880

INC .

Environmental Gardens 8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310 Peekskills, NY 10566 800-254-0507; 914-736-6676 FutureGarden Inc. 59 Central Avenue, Farmingdale, NY 11735 516-420-0884 Greentree Nursery 308 Elmira Road, Ithaca, NY 14850 607-272-3666 Grow Room, The 8 Bridge Street, Nyack, NY 10960 800-449-9630 Harvest Moon Hydroponics Henrietta Townline Plaza, 3047 West Henrietta Road, Rochester, NY 14623 716-865-7353 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 340 West at 59, Central Nyack, NY 10960 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 147 Fourth Street, Troy, NY 10960 Healthy Harvest Organics and Hydro 163 Broadway, Fort Edwart, NY 12828 518-480-4698 Hudson Valley Hydroponics 217 Route 32 North, New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-3633 Hydro Garden Center 1069B Lyell Avenue, Rochester, NY 14606 1-800-277-1322 Hydroponics of Buffalo 1497 Hertel Avenue, Buffalo, NY 14216 716-838-3545 Hydroponics Shops of America 2606 Erie Boulevard, Syracuse, NY 13224 315-251-2516 Indoor Outdoor Gardener 8223 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11209 718-836-2402 KG Garden Supply 1327 Floyd Avenue, Rome, NY 13440 1-877-KG-HYDRO Saratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply 19 Front Street, Ballston Spa, NY 12020 518-885-2005; 800-850-4769 Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics 2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13, Niagara Falls, NY 14304 888-GROWBOX Sunset Hydroponics & Home Brewing 1590 West Ridge Road, Rochester, NY 14615 866-395-9204 Upstate Hydroponics 2026 Lake Rd unit B Elmira, NY 14903 607 483 9199

NORTH CAROLINA Be Well Hydroponics & Urban Gardening 4732 Monroe Road, Charlotte, NC 28205 704-344-8010 BWGS East 4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400 Charlotte, NC 28214 800-316-1306 Fifth Season Gardening Company 21 B Westside Dr. Asheville NC 28806 828-225-5007

Fifth Season Gardening Company 45 Banks Avenue, Asheville, NC 28801 828-253-4112 Fifth Season Gardening Company 106 South Greensboro Street, Carrboro, NC 27510 919-932-7600 Fifth Season Gardening Company 1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue, Greensboro, NC 27408 336-271-3373 Fifth Season Gardening Company 5619-A Hillsborough Street, Raleigh, NC 27606 919-852-4747 Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center 4521 Cumberland Road, Fayetteville, NC 28306 910-423-FLOW (3569) High Tech Garden Supply 2712 B Freedom Drive Charlotte, NC 28208 704-697-0911 New Age Gardens 2236A US Highway 70, Swannanoa, NC 28778 828-299-9989 Progressive Gardens 6005 Oleander Drive, Wilmington, NC 28403 910-395-1156 The Family Tree Nursery & Garden Center 6033 Ocean Highway E.,(on mile marker 35) Winnabow, OH 28479 910-253-9200

OHIO Advanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center 5204 Darrow Road, Hudson, OH 44236 234-380-1287 Akron Garden Center 434 W Wilbeth Road, Akron, OH 44314 330-724-2700 Cleveland Garden Center Inc. 727 East 185th Street, Cleveland, OH 44119 216-481-7868 CropKing 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Carefree Garden Center 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Dayton Hydroponics 3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449 937-859-3999 Eastside Hydroponics 550 Ohio Pike Cincinnati, OH 45255 513-528-GROW Garden Indoors of Ohio 4720 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 800-833-6868 Greenleaf Hydroponics 1805 Elm Road, Warren, OH 44483 330-372-1039 Grow Wizard, The 5700 Denison Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44102 216-961-2500 Harvest Moon 9215 Market Street, Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452 800-776-8399 Herb-N-Garden Center 14901 Puritas Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44135 216-252-2001 Hydro Gardens and Lights 1144 N Memorial Drive Lancaster, OH 43130 705-65 Hydro

Indoor Garden Worx 906 Blue Avenue, Zanesville, OH 43701 866-900-9679 Indoor Gardens 1222 Hill Road, North, Pickerington, OH 43147 614-866-6065 Kissed by the Sun Hydroponic 10740 Reading Road, Cincinnati, OH 45241 513-769-0159 Magic Home Gardens 209 Cemetery Road, Canal Winchester, OH 43110 614-837-2440 Magic Home Garden 4538 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 614-263-2440 Summit Hydroponics 1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114 330-753-5222 Sweet Greens 5540 Brecksville Road Independence, OH 44131 800-421-7084 Toledo Hydroponics Ltd. 855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2 Toledo, OH 43615 1-877-893-0716 Trinity Hydro Organics 435 Woodman Drive Riverside, OH 45431 937-252-GROW Urban Gardens 671 E. Center Street Marion, OH 43302 740-375-2800

OKLAHOMA AAAAHA! Hydroponics Unlimited P.O. Box 74, Oakhurst, OK 74050 Organics OKC Garden Supply 3620 N Pennsylvania Avenue, Oklahoma City, OK 73118 405-528-GROW Tulsa County Hydro-Organics 1928 W. Albany, Broken Arrow, OK 74012 918-259-HYDRO Urban Garden 3141 E. 15th Street, Tulsa, OK 74104 918-289-0018

OREGON American Agriculture 9220 Southeast Stark Street, Portland, OR 97216 800-433-6805 Anthony’s Garden & Light Supply 93779 B Troy Lane, Coos Bay, OR 97420 541-266-8822 Aqua Serene 2836 W. 11th Avenue, Eugene, OR 97402 541-302-9073 Aqua Serene 465 Applegate Way, Ashland, OR 97520 541-482-7600 Aurora Innovations PO Box 22041, Eugene, OR 97402 866-376-8578 Basin Indoor Gardening 1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601 541-273-2023 B.I.G.S. 155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401, Bend, OR 97702 541-385-5222 BIGS Warehouse 2606 SW 4th Street, Unit B Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-8886

Cascade Horticulture 39570 Pioneer Boulevard, Sandy, OR 97055 503-668-8242 Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics 5490 SW Philomath Boulevard, Corvallis, OR 97333 541-738-2820 Everybody’s Garden Center 2701 SE 14th Avenue, Portland, OR 97202 800-669-5483 Forever Green Organic Hydro Gardens 7530 Crater Lake Highway, White City, OR 97503 541-826-2946 Garden Spout, The 4532 South East 63rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97206 503-788-4769 Gorge Garden Center 1203 12th Street Suite H, Hood River, OR 97031 541-386-GROW Gorilla Garden Supply 1810 Virginia Avenue, North Bend, OR 97459 Garden Supplies 541-756-5005 Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply 2021 West Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-779-8600 Grow America Garden Supply LLC 11511 SW Pacific Highway, Tigard, OR 97223 503-841-6868 Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics) 817 W. 2nd Street, Medford, OR 97501 H2organic LCC 620 NE 3rd Street, McMinnville, OR 97128 503-434-6107 Herb N’ Jungle Hydroponics 930 SE Textron Drive, Bend, OR 97702 541-382-4010 Homegrown Garden Supply 7112 NE Gilsan Street, Portland, OR 97213 877-EZ2-GROW In and Out Gardens 1574 Skypark Drive Medford, OR 97501 541-858-3333 Indoor Garden Center 1697 SE 25th Street, Salem, OR 97302 503-566-7888 Indoor Garden Depot 15828 SE McGloughlin Boulevard, Milwaukie, OR 97267 503-786-2445 Indoor Garden Supply 536 SW 6th Street (rear alley), Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-7750 Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center 909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217 503-546-3185 J-N-B Hydro 2 Go 155 West Central Avenue, Sutherlin, OR 97479 541-459-9211 Ladybug Indoor Gardens 3960 W. Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-618-4459 Lights Distributing 9843 SW 55th Avenue, Portland, OR 97219 Liquid Sun 1845 Southwest Highway 101, Lincoln City, OR 97367 541-994-7070 Moonshine Park Farm 135 South East 62nd, Unit F South Beach, OR 97366 541-444-2298

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Northern Light and Garden Beaverton 9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005 503-297-7331 Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass 1203 Rogue River Highway, Grants Pass, OR 97527 541-474-1700 Northern Light and Garden Salem 1915 Lancester Drive, Salem, OR 97305 503-364-4769 Oregon Rainforest Co. 19949 E. Burnside Street, Gresham, OR 97233 503-465-9909 Paradise Supply Inc. 1409 N. Highway 99, Ashland, OR 97520 541-552-1037 Paradise Supply LLC 560 NE. "F" Street, Unit C, Grand Pass, OR 97526 541-955-7293 Rain or Shine 13126 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230 503-255-1981 Rogue Silicates Inc. POB 21, Azalea, OR 97410 541-837-8590 Roots Garden Supply 5426 North Gay Avenue, Portland, OR 97217 503-285-4768 Roseburg Hydroponics 853 SE Stephens Street, Roseburg, OR 97470 541-229-1420 SunInside Gardening Co. 665 Conger, Unit F, Eugene, OR 97402 541-686-9966 The Good Earth Organics 30088 Redwood Highway, Cave Junction, OR 97523 541-592-4496 Urban Flora 2865 South East, Portland, OR 97214 503-236-3344 Vital Organix 932-B SE “M” Street Grants Pass, OR 97526 541-226-9283 Westcoast Organic and Hydroponic Supply 12410 SE 282nd Avenue, Unit C Boring, OR 97009 503-766-4106 Wizard's Garden, LLC 621 Spruce Street, Unit C, Myrtle Point, OR 97458 541-572-2333

PENNSYLVANIA 422 GROW 1775 North Main Street Extension Butler, PA 16001-1327 724-561-3777 Flairform POB 1417, Lansdale, PA 19446 215-395-6353 Full Bloom Hydroponics 84 South 24th Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15203 888-872-3602 Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania 208 Route 13, Bristol, PA 19007 800-227-4567

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Harvest Moon Hydroponics 1239 South Airport Road, Allentown, PA 18103 610-432-4949 Healthy Gardens and Supply 1012 Lincoln Avenue, Prospect Park, PA 19076 866-32-HYDRO High Tech Garden Supply 20232 Route 19, Unit 6, Cranberry Twp., PA 16066 724-473-1113 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 2008 Smallman Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15222 412-232-7030 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 830 Route 119, Greensburg, PA 15601 724-836-1118 Hydro Ponics of Harrisburg 310 South 10th Street, Lemoyne, PA 17043 877-684-3808 Organic Garden Center 800 Washington Blvd. Williamsport, PA 17701 570-322-3120 PA Hydroponics & Home Gardening Supply 20 Quaker Church Road, York Springs, PA 17372 717-528-4175 Pocono Hydroponic Solutions 25 Route 611 Bartonsville, PA 18321 Tel: 570-730-4544 RH Distribution POB 1417 Lansdale, PA 19446 888-545-8112

RHODE ISLAND Good To Grow 34 Nooseneck Hill Road, West Greenwich, RI 02817 401-392-3100 Hydro-Earth 1243 Mineral Springs Avenue, North Providence, RI 02904 401-305-5520 LiquidSun® RI 1179 Central Avenue, Pawtucket, MA 02861 401-722-2724 Oakworld Garden Center 39 West Street, Barrington, RI 02806 401-245-5705 Organically Grown 768 Atwood Ave Cranston, RI 02920 401-944-0549 Solar Seed Hydroponics, Inc. 2406 Putman Pike, Chepachet, RI 02814 401-710-9010

SOUTH CAROLINA 247 Garden Supply 535 D Clemson Road, Columbia, SC 29229 803-788-4445 All Good Hydroponics & Gardening 6729 Two Notch Road, Columbia, SC 29223 803-708-4819 GreenSpirit Hydrogarden 1864 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29405 843-225-1GRO;

Green Thumb Unique Gardening & More 1230 Rutherford Road, Greenville, SC 29609 864-271-8830

SOUTH DAKOTA Green Earth Products Inc. 5700 Highway 79 S.,Unit 1, Rapid City, SD 57702 605-342-1307

TENNESSEE Advanced Hydroponic Garden 783 French Mill Road, Dandridge, TN 37725 800-521-1643 Advanced Hydroponic Garden 6912 Clinton Highway, Knoxville, TN 37921 866-938-3318 All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co. 924 8th Avenue, South, Nashville, TN 37203 800-790-2188 Atlantis Hydroponics 1800 Rossville Avenue, #3, Chattanooga, TN 37408 423-752-5400 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 126 Belinda Parkway, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122 888-265-9005 Perpetual Harvest 75 Riverport Drive, Jackson, TN 38301 877-422-3391 Sun City Hydroponics 2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104, Memphis, TN 38133 901-372-8100 Worm’s Way Tennessee 901 Main Street, Nashville, TN 37072 800-397-4153

TEXAS Abundant Harvest Hydroponics & Organics 3101 Avenue E East, Arlington Road, TX 76011 817-649-0100 Airline Hydroponics P.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363, Houston, TX 77098 713-942-0484 Botani Garden 15120 Bellaire Blvd Houston, TX 77083 281-575-1999 Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics 4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310, Austin, TX 78745 512-444-2100 Earth Organics 1360 Lee Trevino Drive,Suite 105 El Paso, TX 79936 915-591-9500 Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies 5302 Slide Road Unit B, Lubbock, TX 79414 806-793-2901 GreenMaker Nursery 3030 Northwest Loop, Stephenville, TX 76401 254-965-7273 GroGreen Hydroponics 4015 Main Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-370-9984 Happy Harvest Hydroponics & Organic 1500 Crescent Drive, Suite 202 Carrollton, TX 75006 972-466-1300

Houston Discount Hydroponics 9384 Richmond Avenue, Houston, TX 77063 713-464-9406 Hydro Mart 3841 Main Street, Rowlett, TX 75088 972-475-6114 Hydroponic Nation 9700 Almeda Genoa Road, Suite 108, Houston, TX 77075 281-501-9636 Innergrow Hydroponics 24451 Interstate Highway 20, Wills Point, TX 75169 866-475-4769 Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies) 13628 Neutron Road, Dallas, TX 75244 (866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555 Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics 1302 Motor Circle, Dallas, TX 75207 214-634-9376 Sol Organics & Hydroponics 1634 Babcock Road, San Antonio, TX 78229 210-366-9082 Texas Growers Supply 5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602, Humble, TX 77396 281-441-3739 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin) 5126 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756 512-459-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin) 2125-A Goodrich Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-440-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas) 3400 Elm Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-744-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston) 7730 A Park Place Boulevard, Houston, TX 77087 713-641-4769 Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply 6125 West Sam Houston Parkway, North Suite 206 Houston, TX 77041 713-856-8425

UTAH Salt Lake Plant & Hydro 60 West 3300 S. #6, South Salt Lake, UT 84115 801-488-3200

VERMONT Green Thumb Gardening P.O. Box 235, Route 15, Underhill, VT 5489 800-564-9376 Greenthumb - Vermont 394 Route 15, Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323 LiquidSun® VT 1 Bellows Falls Road, (Route 5 North) Putney, VT 05158 802-387-1100 Peak Hydroponic Garden Supplies 20 School Street, Plainfield, VT 05667 802-454-8000

VIRGINIA Blue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co. 5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11 Roanoke VA 24012 540-265-2483 Clean & Green Technologies 196 Corning Drive, Christiansburg, VA 24073 866-694-1628

Fifth Season Gardening Company 900 Preston Ave. Charlottesville VA 22903 434-293-2332 Hydroponics & Growlights 13400 Occoquan Road, Woodbridge, VA 22191 703-490-0700 I Love Hydroponics 612 N. Sheppard Street, Richmond, VA 23221 804-377-3020 I Love Hydroponics 368 Newtown Road, #105, Virginia Beach, VA 23462 757-490-5425 Inside-Out Garden Supply 6517 Backlick Road, Springfield, VA 22150 703-451-3259

West VIRGINIA Panhandle Hydroculture 800 East Moler Ave. Martinsburg, WV 25401 304-240-7587

WASHINGTON 509 Grow 2718 N Division Spokane, WA 99207 509-327-GROW(4769) Aqua Serene 3839 Stone Way North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-GROW (4769) Eco Enterprises 1240 NE 175th Street, #B Shoreline, WA 98155 800-426-6937 Garden Smart 500 Bond Drive, Castlerock, WA 98611 360-274-7960 Green Gardens Distributing 12738 Bel-Red Road, Bellevue, WA 98005 425-454-5731 Green Tree Hydroponics and Garden 12316 Pacisic Ave South Tacome, WA 98444 253-495-6757 Grow Center, The 17524 N. Franklin Crescent, Colbert, WA 99005 509-456-GROW Hydro-Tech 2121 Aurora Avenue, North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-2202 Indoor Garden Depot 6400 NE Highway 99, Suite H, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Indoor Garden Depot 1401 S. 324th Street, Federal Way, WA 98003 253-874-1112 Indoor Garden & Lighting 3839 6th Avenue, Tacoma, WA 98406 253-761-7478 Indoor Garden & Lighting 23303 Highway 99, Suite A, Edmonds, WA 98026 425-673-2755 Indoor Garden & Lighting 714 South Central Avenue, Kent, WA 98032 253-373-9060 Indoor Garden Supply LLC 1950b Belmont Loop, Woodland, WA 98674 360-841-8055 InDoor Gardening 1158 Commerce Longview WA, 98632 360-353-3851

Island Hydroponic & Supplies 1515 5th Street #B, Marysville, WA 98271 425-299-5855 Kent Garden Supplies Ltd. 18817 East Valley Highway, Kent, WA 98032 425-251-9299 Kitsap Garden & Lighting 2130 6th Street, Bremerton, WA 98312 360-377-1277 Linda’s Gardening & Hydroponics 11522 Canyon Road East, Puyallup, WA 98373 253-531-9641 Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics 5087 Lincoln Road, Blaine, WA 98230 M & R Lighting 17238 Memorial Drive, Mt. Vernon, WA 98273 360-848-1080 M & R Lighting Unit C 22914 Highway 410, Buckley, WA 98390 253-891-4190 Mike's Indoor Garden Supply 6121 172nd Street NE #A, Arlington, WA 98223 425-346-6481 National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply 5408 NE 88th Street, Building A, Vancouver, WA 98665 888-478-6544 Northern Lights Gardening 4159 Hannegan Road, Bellingham, WA 98225 360-715-8585 Northwest Horticulture Supply 161 Hooker Road, #1, Sequim, WA 98057 360-582-0702 Renton Indoor Garden Center 207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A, Renton, WA 98055 425-917-9000 River City Hydroponics 1514 East Francis Avenue, Spokane, WA 99208 509-464-0246 Sodo Hydro 1727 1st Ave. South, Seattle, WA 98134 888-904-9376 Solar Shop 306 West 4th Street, Tonasket, WA 98855 509-486-4508 Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply 4823 East Sprague Avenue E., Spokane Valley, WA 99212 509-534-4055

WISCONSIN Aric's Indoor Garden Supply 1104 West Wisconsin Avenue, Appleton, WI 54914 920-574-3258 Brew and Grow 285 N. Janacek Road, Brookfield, WI 53045 262-789-0555 Brew and Grow 3317 Agriculture Drive, Madison, WI 53716 608-226-8910 Grow BIG Hydroponics 954 S. Westland, Appleton, WI 54914 920-749-4769 Paradigm Gardens 4539 Helgesen Drive, Madison, WI 53718 608-241-3800

PUERTO RICO Tecno-Hydro Ave Campo Rico GJ17, Carolina, PR 00982 787-752-8252

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