Maximum Yield NZ May/Jun 2013

New Zealand May/June 2013

I N D O O R

10

G A R D E N I N G

FREE

th ANNIVERSARY

ISSUE

LIGHTS, POWER, GROW: LIGHTING FOR BEGINNERS CHEERING FOR HOMEGROWN CHERRIES GET EXCITED ABOUT SOIL BASICS

maximumyield.com

Indoor gardenING expo NOVI MICHIGAN June 1-2

SAN FRANCISCO

CALIFORNIA July 27-28

Maximum Yield’s

LONG BEACH

CALIFORNIA OCTOBER 26-27

indoorgardeningexpo.com

CONTENTS May/June 2013

FEATURES 28

12

22 22 Humidity, Vapour Pressure Deficit and the Transpiration Stream

From the Editor

8

Letters to the Editor

10

Ask the Experts

12

MAX Facts

16

Product Spotlight

28

Growers Know

56

Talking Shop

54 Fungus Gnats

58

You Tell Us

60

Distributors

59 Is It Dead?

62

Coming up Next

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MaximumYield.com

32 Cheering for Cherries

by Dr. Mike Nichols

42 Lights, Power, Grow

by Grubbycup

46 Soil Basics (Get Excited!)

by Lee McCall

by Chad Garbet

by Heather Rhoades

4

DEPARTMENTS

6

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

Maximum Yield |  May/June 2013

32

46

FROM THE EDITOR | lINDA jESSON

To help ensure you see great results in or outside the growroom this time of year, this issue of Maximum Yield provides plenty of information to get your next crop off to a great start and a fantastic finish! From addressing the right techniques for planting in soil, learning about how much light your plants need, and taking care of fungus gnats, we provide a ton of information for both the novice and the advanced gardener. This issue we also highlight three Australian companies doing great things in the hydroponics industry: Growright Solutions, Simply Hydroponics and Wallace Hydroponics.

We also take a look at how cherries are currently being grown in Australia and New Zealand and see whether or not cherries might be the next crop to see a hydroponic future.

We've also included some interesting growing trivia in our Max Facts section and have highlighted some of the newest products now on the market across the country.

Message from the

Editor Linda Jesson

We look forward to returning to Novi, Michigan for the second annual Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expo happening from June 1 to 2, 2013. For more information and to see special hotel rates, exhibitor lists and more, visit indoorgardenexpo.com and make plans to attend! We welcome all manufacturers, distributors, retailers and the general public to join us.

In the meantime, be sure to enter our annual Win a Growroom contest for your chance to win an amazing prize pack to help you outfit an entirely new growroom. Find details online at maximumyield.com. Also, feel free to get in touch with us editor@maximumyield.com or on Facebook and Twitter with any feedback or questions you might have for us—we love hearing from readers!

contributors Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B.

Lee McCall is an alumnus of Johnson

Grubbycup has been an avid

Raquel Neofit is a freelance writer for the horticulture, travel and lifestyle industries. She has a background in business and radio, and is an avid believer that hydroponics is the future.

Follow Raquel’s writing on her blog, Black Thumbs Guide to Growing Green—the misadventures of the vertical herb gardening movement— and My Food Story on Facebook.

Dr. Mike Nichols is a retired

Chad Garbet considers plants the

Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz for more information.

& Wales University. His extensive culinary background helped him gain experience in and knowledge of fine dining and food production, which developed into a career in the hydroponics and year-round gardening industry. Lee and his business partner use their Denver-based businesses to educate the public on sustainable gardening and high-quality produce.

university lecturer and an honorary research associate in the College of Sciences at Massey University, New Zealand. He speaks extensively at conferences for international organizations such as the United Nations, and also writes and consults on a range of intensive horticultural topics.

Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout the USA, Canada, the UK, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.

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Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

indoor gardener for over 20 years.

His articles were first published in the United Kingdom, and since then his gardening advice has been published in French, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Czechoslovakian and German. He is also considered one of the world’s leading authorities on crochet hydroponics. most fascinating things on our planet.

Trying to get information about growing plants out to the general public is his goal. He works at Word of Mouth Hydroponics Inc. in Nanaimo, British Columbia where he passes his growing knowledge to customers.

Chad wants to see jungles inside our major cities and on every corner on every street.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR VOLUME 11 – NUMBER 1 May/June 2013

I’m a Fan Winners Announced

Santino Patterson from Bellmawr, New Jersey, is the second winner of Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan contest. Santino said, “Maximum Yield always has the best upto-date information on all the best new products and indoor growing techniques. It’s the only magazine I need to stay on top of all my horticultural needs. Maximum Yield is by far the most insightful indoor gardening magazine out there. Oh, and I can’t forget to mention that it’s free! You just can’t beat it!”

Thanks for the kudos, Santino, and congratulations.

We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Boyer Indoor Gardening.

The following month, Tye Flowers from Indianapolis, Indiana, won the third Maximum Yield I’m a Fan contest! Tye said, “With a last name of 'Flowers,' you would think having a green thumb would be genetic. That's not the case here; although, I would say mine was greener than most when I started over 10 years ago. When I started out, local shops were great at starting me off on the right foot, but as I had more questions I found it hard to get consistent answers.

Then I found the Yield! Well, I think you guys have set us straight. It's like you guys publish certain months just for me. Sometimes I'll flip through articles that are years old and still find answers.

I'm guaranteed to learn something useful.”

Thanks, Tye, and congratulations.

Enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Maximum Grow Gardening.

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Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

Dear Editor,

“Your magazine keeps me up to date with the latest and greatest in this industry: easy-to-read articles and great product write-ups.

In this era of indoor gardening, it is good to have a solid fallback for information and your mag keeps it coming. Thanks for all your hard work.” – Tony Frisbie

Friendly Facebook Tips We recently asked our Facebook fans what has been giving them the best results for germination. Below is some of the great responses we received.

Bena Mack “I soak in a paper towel until I see some spouts, then right in soil.”

Brandon Fiore “Soaked rooters with RO water. I use Atami Rootbastic as soon as I see a tap root in the plugs.”

Steve Kasas “It depends on how valuable the seed is, ideally rapid rooters but sometimes I cheap out and go with peat pellets.”

Daniel Ornelas “The old paper towel method in a Ziplock bag, and put it somewhere warm and dark. Usually on top of a PC tower or my cable box. Seems to never fail. I can't remember a seed that didn't pop this way.”

We want to hear from you!

Maximum Yield Publications Inc. Snail-mail: 2339 Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Email: editor@maximumyield.com Twitter: twitter.com/max_yield Facebook: facebook.com/MaximumYield

PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092 PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson editorial editor@maximumyield.com Editor Linda Jesson Assistant Editor Jessica Skelton Assistant Editor Julie McManus

ADVERTISING SALES Sales Manager Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Account Executives Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com Emily Rodgers - emily@maximumyield.com Kelsey Hepples - kelsey@maximumyield.com

Katie Montague - katie@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Art Director Alice Joe Graphic Designers Liz Johnston Jennifer Everts Dionne Hurd ACCOUNTING Tracy Greeno - tracy@maximumyield.com Tara Campbell - tara@maximumyield.com

AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Dome Garden Supply Holland Forge House N’ Garden Hydroponic Generations Plant Symbionts UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Future Harvest Development Europe Nutriculture UK Direct Garden Supplies Dutch Pro Maxigro Ltd. CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS General Hydroponics Humboldt Wholesale Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds

SIMON ASK THESAYS EXPERTS

When feeding freshly cut unrooted clones, what nutrient solution and dosage do you recommend?

Paul

Can you give me results for growing crops in soil versus aeroponics—rates, yields, etc.?

Ralph Smith Unfortunately there haven’t really been many relevant, scientifically accurate studies making this comparison between aeroponics and soil growing, the reason being that the conditions of such studies vary so much that a conclusive result would be hard to get. For example, if a soil of excellent physical and nutritional properties was compared against a poorly designed aeroponic system the results would be different than if a poorly structured soil was compared against a more superior aeroponic system. Factors such as the crop type, effect of environmental conditions on growth, water-holding capacity and aeration of the soil, temperature of the nutrient, makeup of the nutrient solution, nutritional factors in the soil, pH, etc. all have such a huge result on variables such as yield that a standard comparison is very hard to make (i.e., it is not just the system that affects yields and growth rate; in fact sometimes the system only has a minimal effect).

Dr. Lynette Morgan

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Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

We don’t recommend attempting to feed your unrooted clones. Since roots are like mouths for plants, trying to feed an unrooted clone isn’t very productive. You want to limit your cuttings’ tasks during the propagation process, so giving them nutrients too early in their life cycle can send mixed signals.

Nutrients are fuel for growth, and during the rooting process you want your fresh cuttings to only concentrate on root development and not leaf and foliage production. Once your cuttings have started to root, a very light strength grow nutrient can be added to your solution to begin encouraging normal, healthy vegetative growth. We recommend dipping cuttings in a quality rooting gel and placing it in your cloner or medium.

Roots are the most important component during cloning, so concentrate on getting the best possible roots first! Once you’ve established them, go ahead and begin to feed your ladies with your favourite growth formula.

Scott Thompson-Montague

MAX FACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Invasive Snail Mail Australia has had all kinds of problems with species that don’t have natural predators on the continent, and the Giant African Snail can now be added to the list. One was recently found and destroyed in a shipping container at the port of Brisbane. These snails grow to the size of a baseball, can lay 1,200 eggs every year, survive all sorts of extreme temperatures, have no natural predators and eat more than 500 crops—plus the sides of houses. They also carry meningitis that can infect and kill humans; so, here’s hoping the one is Brisbane is the only one that made its way over.

(Source: treehugger.com)

MAXFACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

New Potential Location for Banana Production The Burdekin region of north Queensland could become Australia's newest banana growing powerhouse, after a nation-wide search for more growing areas. After the industry's key growing hub on the Cassowary Coast was ripped apart twice in five years by devastating cyclones, the industry has set about diversifying its planting areas to limit the impact of future disasters.

“We're looking for sites that are free of Panama disease,” said Mike Smith, principal scientist with Queensland’s Department of Agriculture.

(Source: abc.net.au)

Extinct Frogs Cloned The genome of an extinct Australian frog has been revived and reactivated by a team of scientists using sophisticated cloning technology to implant a “dead” cell nucleus into a fresh egg from another frog species. The bizarre gastric-brooding frog Rheobatrachus silus—which uniquely swallowed its eggs, brooded its young in its stomach and gave birth through its mouth—became extinct in 1983. But the Lazarus Project team has been able to recover cell nuclei from tissues collected in the 1970s and kept for 40 years in a conventional deep freezer.

The "de-extinction" project aims to bring the frog back to life.

(Source: sciencedaily.com)

Costly Weeds Weeds are one of the major threats to Australia’s primary production and to the natural environment. It has been estimated that weeds cost Australian agriculture more than $4 billion dollars each year, including control costs and lost production.

(Source: rirdc.gov.au)

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Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

MAX FACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Dung Beetles Coming to New Zealand Increasing amounts of domesticated livestock in New Zealand are outnumbering the associated dung beetles that have evolved to process their dung. It has been estimated that around 700,000 ha in NZ at any one time is covered in animal faeces. Mass-rearing of dung beetles is currently being undertaken at Landcare Research’s facilities in Auckland and Lincoln. The proposed introduction of dung beetles into New Zealand been extended to June 2014. Dung beetles to be released are facing opposition from scientists who harbour grave doubts about their effectiveness and safety, since the insects could expose children and the elderly to potentially severe disease such as E.coli and salmonella, put dogs at risk of a nasty bug and deliver little in the way of economic benefit.

(Source: dungbeetle.org.nz)

Eroding Horticultural Profits High production costs and the strong Australian dollar will continue to erode returns to Australia's horticulture sector. Australian Bureau of Agricultural and Resource Economics and Sciences senior economist Brian Moir said the dollar was making it hard for exporters to compete overseas and easier for importers to sell fruit in Australia. Australian fruit production is tipped to rise in the 2013-14 financial year to $3.45 billion and to $3.6 billion by 2017-18, while the value of fruit exports is expected to increase 1% to $512 million this financial year and 2% to $523 million the following financial year.

Australian vegetable production is forecast to increase 7% in 2012-13.

(Source: weeklytimesnow.com.au)

Nutrition Content Calculator Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) is updating the Nutrient Profiling Scoring Criterion Calculator to reflect the new “Standard 1.2.7 – Nutrition, Health and Related Claims” that affects food labels and food advertisements and became law in January 2013. An updated version of the scoring calculator will be available shortly.

(Source: foodstandards.gov.au)

Solar Power Production Expected to Reach 10 GW by 2017 New reports forecast that the Australian photovoltaic market, which is currently at 2.5 GW, will likely grow to between 6 GW and 10 GW by as early as 2017 and suggests that the owner-occupied, single-family residential market will soon be saturated with photovoltaic installations. This means the solar industry will have to target more challenging sectors like the multi-family residential and commercial sectors.

(Source: inhabitat.com)

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Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S

HOTTEST ITEMS Ask for them at your local indoor gardening store.

The OG Air-cooled Reflector

Designed in the United States by Growlite and manufactured by Growlush, the OG air-cooled reflector is a new design for growroom lighting that utilises a patented vertical orientation and a carefully researched and designed 360o parabolic reflector that allows it to evenly concentrate and layer light. In-house and independent evaluations have shown that a 600-W lamp fitted in an OG reflector can effectively match the performance of a 1,000-W bulb in a horizontal air-cooled reflector. The OG also features Concealed Vacuum Airflow Technology, which allows it to efficiently exhaust heat away from the bulb by creating a cyclone effect to swirl air around the bulb and out of the reflector to the ventilation system.

This technology helps in prolonging the life of the lamp by minimising temperatures. With greater light intensity and substantial heat reduction, the OG is the next evolution of indoor plant lighting. For more information, ask a local retailer.

Samurai PK Samurai PK is the ultimate super boost for all fruits and flowers. It is made from the purest raw material, consisting of a pharmaceuticalgrade natural mineral phosphate and potassium. Samurai PK stimulates the development of bud and fruit. It functions as one of the major players in the process of photosynthesis, nutrient transport and energy transfer. For more information, visit a hydroponics store near you.

New Gorilla Grow Tent Sizes The Gorilla Grow Tent line just expanded to include new sizes to its existing line of grow tent products.

Tents sizes now include a 0.91 by 0.91 m, 1.22 by 1.22 m, 1.22 by 2.44 m, 2.44 by 2.44 m, 3.05 by 3.05 m, 3.66 by 3.66 m and 3.05 by 6.1 m. These new sizes complement the existing sizes: 0.61 by 0.76 m, 0.61 by 1.22 m, 1.52 by 1.52 m, 1.52 by 2.74 m and 2.74 by 2.74 m. All are engineered with a patent-pending adjustable extension system. Place your order today at your favourite indoor gardening store.

Bluelab pH Probe KCl Storage Solution We know it is extremely important to care for and store pH probes correctly. pH probes are sensitive glass instruments that age through normal use. The life and performance of pH probes is reduced heavily when they are stored dry. Remember, keep your pH probe wet—if it dries, it dies! Bluelab pH Probe KCl Storage Solution is made specifically for use with Bluelab pH products. Manufactured to high laboratory standards, it is designed to increase response time and maximise the life of Bluelab pH pens and probes. For best results, use the solution to store the pH probe after use and hydrate monthly. Contact your local Bluelab retailer for more information.

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Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT Xtreme Gardening’s Kryptomite Super Wash for Mites and Mildew Washing your plants with Kryptomite is fast and easy. Its ready-to-use proprietary formula is food grade, non-toxic and acceptable for use in organic crop production. Wash off those pesky critters and crawlers, and let powdery mildew become a thing of the past. This product is natural and safe for use during all stages of a plant’s life cycle, as well as during and after harvest. With Kryptomite, plant ailments and diseases can be prevented by practicing regular cleanings and timely attention to problems. Kryptomite wash, available in a 473.18-ml up-down sprayer, is the ultimate solution for natural gardening maintenance. For more information, visit a local retailer.

Quick Stakes Plant Supports Total branch control is a necessity for all levels of gardeners!

Quick Stake Plant Supports are engineered specifically to fit your support needs. With these heavyduty locking cams, adjusting your supports are as easy as flicking a light switch. Quick Stakes are available in two easy-to-use systems.

First is a preassembled fourpack, perfect for most gardeners.

Second is a modular system of parts, allowing the user to create whatever support fits their need.

This revolutionary, patent-pending product allows the user to control the exact height and angle of any branch in their garden. For more information, visit an indoor gardening store near you.

SuperCloset SuperLocker 3.0 Launched Tight spaces were the impetus for the design of the SuperLocker 3.0. This is a 167.64- by 38.10- by 60.96-m grow cabinet that features a dual-chamber configuration. The top chamber is a mini-veggie chamber powered by a T5 light and supported by a 10-plant site SuperCloner hydroponic system.

A SuperLocker 3.0 operator utilises this mini-veggie chamber to start seedlings and propagate smaller plants and clones. The bottom flowering chamber is powered by a 150-W lighting system (upgradeable to 250-W) and supported by the SuperPonic-8 hydroponic system, which features both a top-feed-drip and deep-water-culture hydroponic application that feeds eight plants at a time. Visit a store near you for more information.

Inda-Gro’s Induction Grow Lights Inda-Gro Induction Lighting Systems only manufactures induction grow lights. First discovered in 1891 by Nikola Tesla, induction lamps have always been known for their energy efficiency (they consume up to 70% less power than HID lamps), long life and low operating temperatures. Inda-Gro Induction Grow Lights combine these proven efficiencies with broadspectrum-PAR-weighted phosphors for explosive growth and high yields all from a single lamp source. Our grow lamps also utilise an electrodeless fluorescent discharge lamp (EFDL) technology. With no internal electrodes, these lamps offer low lumen depreciation and a rated life of 100,000 hours. For more information, visit your local indoor gardening retailer.

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Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

Xtreme Gardening Presents Azos Start rooting and get growing, naturally! Azos is a beneficial microbe that can enhance growth while boosting root development. Great for rooting new cuttings naturally and fueling abundant growth during your vegetative cycle.

Now available in a 3.63-kg size. For more information, visit a local retailer.

NPK Industries Distributed by Growlush Australia Growlush Australia is happy to announce it is the distributor for the NPK Industries brand of nutrients from the United States. NPK Industries uses revolutionary technology to produce high quality products to use in your garden. Power Wash, PM Wash, Multiply and Mighty Wash are available now throughout stores in Australia and New Zealand. Power Wash is the solution to remove residuals left by other plant sprays. It is effective throughout the grow and flower cycle up to and including the day of harvest. PM Wash solves powdery mildew and mould problems and may be used at all growing stages. Multiply is a soil drench and may be added to any feeding program or nutrient feed schedule, every 7 to 10 days during the veg or grow stage.

It contains antioxidants and will produce a broader structure with more tops during the veg stage. Mighty Wash is a ready-to-use proprietary formula used to destroy spider mites in your garden without leaving residue behind.

It can be used throughout the grow and flower cycles. For more information about products by NPK Industries, ask a gardening supply store.

Maximum Yield  | May/June 2013

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Nutrifield’s NF Regulator A: Stop Grow Use Nutrifield's NF Regulator A: Stop Grow in your garden today to stop upward height growth by blocking the action of Gibberellic acid. This product also aids to create a more uniform canopy height and thickness, resulting in even light penetration for your plants. The slowing of the top growth gives rise to an increase in lateral branching to fill the spaces allowing the plant to maximise its flowering sites. Nutrifield’s NF Regulator A: Stop Grow can be used with NF Regulator B to maximise your flower formation, improve fruit setting and increase harvest weight. For more information, ask about Nutrifield at your local gardening store.

Once & Done Feeder Paks

SuperCloset Deluxe 3.0 Launched

Once & Done Organic and Natural Plant Feeder Paks are an efficient and easy method of feeding new transplants. Add to plant hole, backfill and remember to water. It’s that simple. Slow-release organic and natural fertilisers are combined in a unique biodegradable pack that keeps nutrients in the root zone, where they need to be. More nutrients near the roots mean more nutrients in the fruits. Combine with Mykos and Azos to support abundant growth for even the most heavy-feeding plants. Learn more at an indoor gardening store near you.

In response to customer feedback, SuperCloset, Inc., released the Deluxe 3.0 to replace the Deluxe 2.0. Standing in at an impressive 1.83 by 0.91 by 0.61 m, the split-chamber, dual-lighted Deluxe 3.0 exhibits all the success of years of constant design improvement. The top flower chamber features a professionally air-cooled, closed-loop, 400-W (upgradeable to 600-W) lighting system and the SuperPonics-16 dual hydroponics system that features top-feeddrip and deep-water-culture hydroponic methodologies.

The separate veggie chamber includes a T5 lighting system and the SuperCloner-50 hydroponics system, which is a bubbleponics hydroponics application. Together, these two chambers comprise the number-one-selling grow cabinet available. Contact a store near your for more information.

Growlush 600-W Programmable Digital Ballast The New Growlush 600-W Programmable Digital Ballast features the same quality, silent operation, dimming and super lumen functions as our previous silent, electronic ballasts, but adds the functionality of a built-in digital timer to manage your light schedule with down-to-the-minute accuracy, as well as a remote control option. Growlush ballasts have low failure rates and are backed by a three-year limited warranty and include safety features that include automatic shutdown in case of a short circuit, overheating or lamp failure. This modern, electronic ballast is up to 30% more energy efficient and can help to prolong lamp life by up to 10%. Additionally, users can seamlessly switch between MH and HPS bulbs and adjust light output on the fly from as little as 50% to as high as 110%.

With this ballast, growers can truly maximise the efficiency of their indoor growing system. For more information, ask a local retailer.

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Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

Bon Vivant Grow and Bloom Bon Vivant Grow and Bloom are one-part, ultra-premium base nutrient products containing all 16 essential elements required for optimum plant growth. Bon Vivant Grow and Bloom were produced from the highest and purest pharmaceutical-grade raw materials, which enhance your plants’ abilities to get the maximum absorption of nutrients. Bon Vivant Grow and Bloom were designed to work in coco, hydroponics and soil mediums. Bon Vivant Grow was designed to stimulate root, stems and foliage. Use Bon Vivant Bloom from the first week of flowering cycle until harvest. Bon Vivant Bloom was designed to promote flower and fruit development, and enhance flavour and aroma. Visit a retailer near you for more information.

Nutrifield’s NF Regulator B: Bud Fast Nutrifield's NF Regulator B: Bud Fast aids in the developmental cycle in your garden, leading to increased flowering and harvest weight. It aids in high density and uniform flower formation, and improves fruit setting to deliver a quality outcome.

Bud Fast is also good for shortening the harvest cycle by focusing the plant on flowering and it prevents premature fruit drop. Choose Bud Fast to increase a plant’s ability to resist collapse, drought, cold and alkaline media conditions.

Use it with NF Regulator A to maximise your plant’s flowering sites. For more information, ask a local gardening supply store.

Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

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Humidity, Vapour Pressure Deficit and the Transpiration Stream

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

W

ith indoor gardens our focus for optimising growth is often light, warmth and just the right mix of nutrients, but humidity, or more specifically vapour pressure deficit (VPD), is sometimes overlooked.

While relative humidity is fairly easy to measure with sensors or meters in the plant canopy, it’s difficult to know exactly what to aim for and how to adjust levels—and what exactly does it all mean for the plants? High humidity gets the blame for all sorts of scourges and nasty disease outbreaks, while low humidity could mistakenly be held accountable for anything that looks like burning, drying, shrivelling or bleaching. However, the issues of humidity and VPD in the growing environment are a little more complex, both in terms of plant growth and disease or growth disorders. To complicate matters further, different levels of humidity and VPD are appropriate for different plant species—from dry atmosphere cactus to steaming tropicals.

Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

Tipburn of the inner leaves of lettuce is more common under high humidity, warm growing conditions that restrict the flow of calcium out to the leaf edges.

What is relative humidity (RH) and vapour pressure deficit (VPD)?

Relative humidity is the most commonly used measure of how much water vapour is held in the air and it’s something most of us are familiar with, as we all know how uncomfortable hot, steamy air can be. One hundred percent relative humidity is extremely humid, while a humidity reading of only 50% represents a dry environment, but what these values don’t tell us is how much water is actually being held in the air, unless the temperature is also given. This is because cold air holds much less water vapour than hot air.

For example, air at 10°C can hold 9.4 g of water vapour per 0.99 m3, while air at 30°C can hold three times as much (up to a maximum of 30.4 g per 0.99 m3). This has some implications for growers as it’s not just a simple case of aiming for one ideal relative humidity value since the effect of humidity on plants also depends on temperature. As a rough guide, the table (below) is used by greenhouse growers of many fruiting and vegetable crops and shows the relationship between temperature and humidity levels.

Temperature °F

Minimum ideal RH (fog or wet down)

Ideal RH

Maximum RH (to prevent disease)

59

-

50 per cent

73 per cent

68

46 per cent

64 per cent

80 per cent

77 86

60 per cent 70 per cent

73 per cent 80 per cent

86 per cent 89 per cent

Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

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Humidity, Vapour Pressure Deficit and the Transpiration Stream

The problem with using relative humidity is that it’s hard to set one optimum RH value, particularly when temperatures tend to vary between day and night and often throughout a 24 hour period. For this reason many growers prefer to use VPD as a more accurate measure of the water vapour content of the air and how this affects plant growth.

VPD is the difference (or deficit) between the amount of moisture in the air at the current time and how much moisture the air can hold when it is saturated. Saturated air will

“Growers who come to grips with the concept of VPD can accurately measure and adjust their growing environment to stay within the recommended range.” condense out to form dew or condensation and leaf wetness, which in turn can lead to rot and a higher occurrence of certain disease pathogens. So while plants don’t want an overly dry atmosphere (high VPD), which sucks the moisture from the foliage, they also don’t want a wet environment (low VPD), which slows transpiration and can lead to an increase in disease outbreaks. VPD is typically expressed in kilopascals (kPa), with the range for most plants being 0.45 kPa to 1.25 kPa and the optimum being around 0.85 kPa. Most indoor gardens are best run at 0.8 to 0.95 kPa for healthy A dense canopy of large leaves can rapidly increase the humidity in the growing environment through the process of transpiration.

A dry environment with low humidity typically results in smaller, more compact leaves in tomato crops.

mature plants, with cuttings needing a more humid environment in the lower VPD ranges. What is important is that unlike relative humidity, the VPD range for optimal growth already takes current temperature into account—so the one ideal value irrespective of temperature is around 0.85 kPa. Growers who come to grips with the concept of VPD can accurately measure and adjust their growing environment to stay within the recommended range and give themselves some considerable advantages both in terms of maximising growth and the ability to control some rather persistent nasties such as botrytis (grey mould) disease.

Technically, VPD more accurately describes what the plant experiences in relation to the effects of temperature and humidity on growth and transpiration. It combines the effects of both humidity and temperature into one value, so it’s easier to use when setting environmental controls.

Why is humidity or VPD so important for plant growth?

Transpirational water loss helps the plant cool itself. This is vital under hot sun or artificial lamps.

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We know that light level and quality and CO2 affect photosynthesis and a number of other plant processes, and that temperature determines the levels of many biological processes within plant cells, but the effects of humidity are a little more indirect. VPD directly affects the rate of transpiration within the plant. Transpiration not only cools the plant, but the transpiration stream from root to leaf surface carries essential minerals up the plant to where they are needed for tissue development. Leaves exposed to the sun or overhead lamps would soon become dangerously hot if they were not cooled by water evaporating from the leaf surface—the process actually works in a similar way to sweat. This evaporated water needs to

be replaced from the transpiration stream, which moves in the xylem vessels of the plant. If the water flow from roots to shoots in the xylem vessels is not fast enough, the plant will start to wilt and tissue damage will occur. The plant will shut its stomata in an attempt to retain turgor pressure and prevent wilting if too much water is being lost via transpiration.

When the stomata shut to prevent water loss, photosynthesis cannot occur as CO2 can’t be taken in from the surrounding air, so plant growth and yield will be slowed if this occurs too often. Low humidity (high VPD) can cause large volumes of water from the transpiration stream to be lost to the air and force the plant to shut down its stomata to prevent desiccation, and this ultimately reduces growth and yields.

High humidity (low VPD), on the other hand, creates a different problem. When the air already contains a lot of

“Leaves exposed to the sun or overhead lamps would soon become dangerously hot if they were not cooled by water evaporating from the leaf surface.” water vapours and could even be close to saturation, it cannot absorb much more water from the plant surface and transpiration slows or even stops. If high humidity conditions exist at the same time as high temperatures, the plant has a major problem as it can’t evaporate enough water from its foliage to cool its tissue and overheating will then occur. Cell damage, wilting and reduced growth will result where hot plants can’t effectively cool themselves via transpiration due to high relative humidity, and in these cases some humidity control is essential.

Powdery mildew is one of the few diseases that can occur under low or high humidity conditions.

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Humidity, Vapour Pressure Deficit and the Transpiration Stream

and many will attack when the air humidity is high. For this reason the safe maximum humidity value is often considered to be around 85% at 25°C, or in other words, a VPD value of more than 0.35 kPa is recommended at all times in order to prevent fungal diseases, which are common under humid conditions. While many of the commonly encountered plant diseases such as botrytis (grey mould) thrive under humid “Spores themselves need to absorb water from the environment to germinate and get inside plant tissue, and having free water available such as that from condensation on plant surfaces is perfect for fungal diseases to develop.”

Some species like it hot and dry and others prefer warm and steamy; optimum humidity varies with many plants.

The transpiration stream moving through the xylem vessels from roots to shoots driven by VPD and humidity is essential for plant functioning. Not only does the water carried in the transpiration stream maintain plant turgor and support, it also carries with it mineral elements and other compounds taken up by the roots. So, without a good rate of transpiration drawing the flow of water and minerals up through the xylem tissues from the roots, plant foliage can’t obtain sufficient levels of nutrients for growth and development. One of the most important aspects of transpiration is the flow of calcium. If transpiration is restricted in any way, the lack of calcium flow out to the leaf tips and new cells in developing fruits will cause problems such as tip burn and blossom end rot, which are conditions common under warm and humid growing conditions.

conditions, and a good degree of control can be achieved by running optimal RH or VPD levels, there is always an exception. Powdery mildew species have spores that contain a lot of water themselves, so they don’t need high humidity or water for germination, and they can also obtain all the water they need for growth from the leaves that they infect. This means that powdery mildew can develop at humidity levels as low as 30% and that its appearance is not necessarily a sign that humidity has been running high.

How to control RH and VPD Low humidity (high VPD) is fairly easy to adjust upwards to high RH, as putting water vapours back into the air can be easily achieved with some light fogging, misting or damping down in the growing area. An open pan of water should provide enough evaporation to increase the humidity if you’re only dealing with a small area. Evaporative coolers also tend to increase the humidity of the air fairly effectively under warm growing conditions. However, having high

How RH and VPD influence disease outbreaks There are a wide range of fungal and bacterial diseases that will attack even healthy plants under high humidity (low VPD) conditions because fungal spores in particular are carried on air currents and so tend to be around much of the time just waiting for the right conditions to launch an attack.

Spores themselves need to absorb water from the environment to germinate and get inside plant tissue, and having free water available such as that from condensation on plant surfaces is perfect for fungal diseases to develop. However, not all fungal disease spores need water on the plant surface, 26

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Misting or fogging of the atmosphere in the growing area is an effective way of increasing the humidity in arid climates.

Cuttings or clones need extra humidity to prevent excessive moisture loss during the root formation phase.

humidity is a more common problem, as large surface areas of foliage tend to lose surprising volumes of water through transpiration and this adds to the humidity of the surrounding air. This humid air, referred to as the boundary layer, needs to be removed from directly around the foliage or further transpiration could be restricted. The best way of doing this is with a continual stream of drier fresh air, which not only lowers the humidity directly surrounding the leaf surface but also replenishes CO2 for photosynthesis. The amount of airflow required to continually remove excess water vapour and bring in sufficient CO2 is higher than many growers realise—there should be sufficient airflow to keep the leaves gently moving most of the time. The warmer it is and the faster the plants are growing, the more the air needs to be shifted over the leaf surface for these processes to occur at optimal rates. For very humid climates, sometimes the only option is a dehumidifier. If the outside air being brought in to cool and dehumidify an indoor garden is naturally very humid it can’t absorb much more moisture from transpiration, and using a dehumidifier is often useful for smaller areas under these conditions.

Checking humidity or monitoring vapours pressure deficit in the growing area is just as important as maintaining temperature, light and nutrition levels when it comes to optimising plant growth and yields. Having some understanding of the relationship between RH and temperature and VPD and how to influence and optimise these factors is an essential tool for the serious grower, and also for those gardeners who just want to prevent annoying outbreaks of fungal disease.

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GROWERS KNOW David Wallace showing off some of his capsicums

by Raquel Neofit

THE MAN

BEHIND

MELBOURNE’S

Raquel Neofit, on behalf of Maximum Yield, recently sat down and spoke with David Wallace from Wallace Hydroponics in Keilor to learn how this thirdgeneration farmer keeps his family’s capsicum-growing business thriving.

HYDROPONIC CAPSICUMS David Wallace from Wallace Hydroponics in the Melbourne suburb of Keilor has a long history growing capsicums—almost 30 years—and has spent the last 20 years in hydroponics. David firmly believes the Wallace success story stems from their intimate knowledge of the produce, hydroponic systems and a passion to grow the best quality produce in town. The Wallace family has been collectively growing in Melbourne for over 100 years, so David (a third-generation grower) has a lot to live up to in terms of maintaining a profitable farming business. This is how he does it.

Raquel Neofit: Why did you switch to hydroponics after all those years in the field?

David Wallace: We switched to hydroponics because we couldn’t get the consistent continuity that customers wanted and they questioned why they couldn’t buy top-quality produce year-round. Things were a little easier back then; we mainly grew red and green capsicums. Hydroponics has come a long way in the last 20 years; there’s big players and big money involved now, which makes it harder for small to medium growers. Because of the money we’ve paid to grow this way, it needs to be profitable, but everyone’s gotten better at what they do. There are a third less farmers in the last five to six years, but they’re producing 50% more produce.

Hydroponics is growing more and more each year and getting better as it goes.

RN: Have you ever ventured into other vegetables?

DW: No, we stick to one thing and we do it well. The needs of capsicums are different to the needs of tomatoes. For every crop you 28

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need different nutrients, a different system and different water quantities. I stick to one so I can stick to one system.

It’s better to grow one variety in a greenhouse and keep the conditions just right.

RN: Tell us about your systems and procedures.

DW: We use metre-long slabs of coco peat, slit the bags open along the top and feed them through a drip irrigation system. We control the glasshouses through fogging systems to keep them cool and we have 50-mm pipes that run up and down the rows with hydraulically heated water to keep the humidity up—this system also acts as a railway line for picking. We mix our own nutrients to a specific recipe and we test the run-off a few times a year to ensure the plants are getting what they need. By testing the run-off water, we know what they’re up-taking from the mix. And for the last five years we’ve incorporated the Integrated Pest Management system for insect control—we’ve only spayed twice in the last three years!

“ the Wallace success story stems from their intimate knowledge of the produce, hydroponic systems and a passion to grow the best quality produce in town.”

RN: What would you consider to be your target market?

DW: We’re aiming for the top end of the market; not so much the elite, but the best independent fruit shops around Melbourne, Geelong and Ballarat—LaMannas, Toscanas, Signorelli—we deal with the provedore! We sell a lot of our produce at the Wholesale Fruit and Veg markets in Footscray Road, West Melbourne, although that is a dying market. Now that the government has flooded millions of dollars into moving the wholesale market, things will changes drastically within the market. [I suspect] they will raise our rents and I’m not sure how many of the old guys will survive it. It’s a nice sight to come and experience—it’s another world—and it will be a sad day when it’s all gone.

We sell in Australia and don’t export to places like Europe because they have strict size restraints, whereas Australia doesn’t have size restraints. So, if exporting is something you are interested in, do your homework. You need to keep your ear to the ground and be up on what’s happening around the world, such as market trends and new varieties that yield higher or are better quality. The real challenge is surviving, and at this stage we are selling our produce cheaper than last year, but our costs are skyrocketing.

RN: What are your tips for beginner hydro growers?

DW: Every year is different and it’s a challenge to produce the best quality plant—quite a bit of science goes into growing these days. You need to have the knowledge to read the plant as it grows and you must spend time doing it properly. It’s like having kids; the plant never grows up. You need to be in attendance all of the time and watch them all of the time. If they’re off their tucker, there’s a reason! I have 12,000 babies that never grow up and they need to be tended to every day. Just like kids, they don’t cry for nothing.

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for

Cherries

by Dr. Mike Nichols Cherries are a valuable crop in Australia and New Zealand, but current growing methods might not be as effective as once thought. Dr. Mike Nichols suggests a better way to go about it. Could cherries see a hydroponic future?

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Cheering for CHerries

There is a worldwide revolution going on in sweet cherry production, and this could require major changes in our thinking as to how best to grow the crop in Australia and New Zealand in the future. Cherries are one of the most valuable summer stone fruit crops, but there are three major problems when it comes to growing them, which are: • High management costs, including during harvesting, due to the large trees • Fruit splitting due to rain prior to, or during, harvest • Battling birds, which have a voracious appetite for ripe cherries To combat these problems, cherries have traditionally been grown in New Zealand extensively in large plantations so that the losses due to birds are minimised, or grown intensively in large fruit cages so that fruit losses due to birds are virtually eliminated.

In New Zealand, cherry production occurs in areas of low rainfall, such as Central Otago, North Otago, Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay. This has been primarily to reduce the risk of fruit loss due to splitting caused by rain during the harvesting period. However, even in these low rainfall areas efforts have been made to reduce splitting by suspended plastic covers over the trees, but these have tended to be somewhat ineffective because the strong winds can be very destructive on plastic covers.

The cherry tree is a forest tree (strongly acrotonic in growth) so that even when grafted onto dwarfing stocks it will still grow many metres tall. The size of the trees poses major management problems in terms of harvesting, pruning, and pest and disease control.

Over the years we have seen many efforts to alleviate these problems.

Typical cherry fruiting pattern.

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For example Prof. Richard Rowe at Lincoln University developed a technique of growing cherries in root restricting bags, in order to make the trees dwarfed and more precocious.

Throughout New Zealand, cherry cages were built in order to keep the birds from the maturing fruit and, in many areas, plastic covers were built to keep rain off the ripening fruit, but none of these systems has been totally successful. The dwarfing system proposed by Prof. Rowe was too intensive and has never really caught on; the cost of the bird-proof structures is excessively high; and strong winds could damage the plastic film over the maturing crop.

In any case, the size of the trees meant that harvesting costs are also high.

In the mid-80s a cherry grower in Blenheim, Paul Kinzett, developed a production system that produced excellent quality cherries, with minimal splitting and bird loss. This was done by growing the trees in large pots, and once the trees had flowered (outside) in the spring, they were moved into a large greenhouse using a tractor. This provided much higher quality fruit than would normally be obtained in the field, just a little earlier than normal, and (if the ventilators were netted) without any fruit loss due to birds.

After harvest, the plants were returned outside so that they experienced the normal autumn dormancy and the very important winter chilling. The greenhouse was then available for growing a conventional tomato crop for the remaining part of the year.

The most recent efforts to overcome these problems has been the development of a technology for growing

The cherry tree is naturally a forest tree and can grow 10- to 12-m tall.

Chart showing UFO cherries (year two).

UFO-trained cherries in winter.

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Cheering for CHerries

cherries using “high tunnels.” These are essentially plastic greenhouses 5-m high and 8-m wide, and designed so that the sides can be rolled up to provide ventilation in the summer if necessary. Another important factor has been the development of new dwarfing rootstocks (Gisela range), but the key factor to the reduction in size of the cherry trees has been by developing a number of new training methods, which not only restricts tree height but regularly renews fruiting wood. Several training systems

have been developed (and trialled), including: Tall Spindle Axe (TSA), Super Slender Axe (SSA), Kym Green Bud (KGB) and Upright Fruiting Offshoots (UFO). Interestingly, the V-shaped Tatura Trellis system has not, to date, found favour. All of these pruning systems are renewal systems in which the tree has a minimal basic structure and the fruiting branches are replaced regularly. The UFO system is probably the simplest to understand, although all four systems have a similar philosophy.

“Throughout New Zealand, cherry cages were built in order to keep the birds from the maturing fruit and, in many areas, plastic covers were built to keep rain off the ripening fruit, but none of these systems has been totally successful.”

Four high tunnel training systems. Left to right: Kym Green Bud (KGB), Tall Spindle Axe (TSA), Super Slender Axe (SSA) and Upgright Fruiting Offshoots (UFO).

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UFO-trained cherries in bloom.

In the UFO system the basic framework comprises two espalier-like branches, parallel to the ground from which 10 upright shoots (per branch) are allowed to develop up to a height of 2 to 3 m. Sweet cherries flower on two-year wood but the heaviest crop is to be found on the spurs of three-year-old wood (and older). So the objective is to systematically replace 20% of the upright shoots every year to ensure that the trees do not grow too tall and so that there is always a succession of young wood and, therefore, of vigorous fruiting spurs.

In the current system the cherry trees are planted in the ground, with three rows of cherries in the 8-m wide tunnel house; however,

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Cheering for CHerries

if the bag system developed by Prof. Rowe used then it might be possible to increase the plant density (and therefore productivity) by adding an additional row.

With high tunnels, spraying of pesticides can be undertaken with a permanent set of spray nozzles under the plastic film; so, there is no need to have row widths controlled by tractor or sprayer size.

The use of greenhouses introduces the potential for some environmental control and, in Michigan state in the United States, supplementary heating has been provided to reduce the risk of frost damage during the critical flowering and early fruit set period. In Washington state, research is being undertaken to enhance fruit quality by modifying the temperature in the tunnel at critical periods of the fruit development. No longer will we have to accept what the weather throws at us. Furthermore, cherries grown under high tunnels tend to be larger and have a higher Brix.

So, where to from here? Might it be possible to grow cherries successfully under even lower tunnels in New Zealand? Could the bag method developed by Prof. Rowe be modified for tunnel use and, thus, used to reduce plant vigour even more? Do we actually need to grow in soil, or should be considering hydroponics? Up until the 1960s all of our greenhouse tomatoes were grown in soil. Now, it is the exception to find any greenhouse tomatoes grown in the

Cherries under high tunnels.

“ Clearly, soil is not a good media in which to grow high- value crops. This poses the question of whether cherries might best be grown in pots filled with a highquality growing medium and irrigated by drip fertigation using a full hydroponic feed.� soil because hydroponics and soilless media have taken over. In a study undertaken in the United Kingdom, it has been shown that there has been a steady increase in yield of greenhouse tomatoes grown in soil of about 1.7% per year, but since hydroponic systems were developed those crops grown using hydroponics had yield increases of 6.4% per year. Clearly, soil is not a good media in which to grow high-value crops. This poses the question of whether cherries might best be grown in pots filled with a highquality growing medium and irrigated by drip fertigation using a full hydroponic feed. This would then also open up the potential for excellent control of plant vigour using controlled deficit irrigation, and much more efficient use of both water and fertiliser.

UFO-trained cherries in autumn.

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Source: Practical Horticulture. All the photographs and diagrams in this article were provided by Prof. Gregory Lang of Michigan State University.

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Lights, Power, Grow Lighting basics

for beginners and hobby growers

by GrubbycuP Plants require different light waves than the kind of light waves humans use to see. To understand why, one must understand the fundamentals of horticultural lighting and just how important it is to use the right ones in your growroom...

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Wavelength

Although the speed of light is a constant, the wavelength and frequency is not. The speed at which the same point on the wave passes by a point in space is the frequency. The distance between wave crests is its wavelength—a wavelength is literally the length of the wave.

Even though specific numbers are omen used as boundary markers, electromagnetic waves are actually not this precise. Where one colour starts being a different colour is more an approximation than a hard line.

The order of longest to shortest wavelengths is: radio waves, infrared (heat), visible light, ultraviolet, X-rays and gamma rays.

The kind of light plants require to grow and flourish is not necessarily the kind of light that we are familiar with—the light waves our eyes see best with are not the same light waves that plants use. While outdoor plants benefit from true full-spectrum lighting, the indoor grower must supply their crops with the wavelengths they need to thrive. Proper lighting is one of the most important facets to a successful indoor garden and indoor gardeners should understand at least the basics.

Light

Light is energy. It’s a form of electromagnetic radiation made from electric and magnetic fields set at right angles to each other. These fields are synchronised together and collectively are known as an electromagnetic field. Electromagnetic radiation travels in a wave emitted outward from a source.

Approximate values by colour: Red: 625 to 700 nanometers Orange: 600 to 624 nanometers Yellow: 599 to 670 nanometers Green: 500 to 569 nanometers Blue: 465 to 499 nanometers Indigo: 426 to 464 nanometers Violet: 400 to 425 nanometers

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Lights, Power, Grow

Proper lighting

Photosynthesis in plants makes the best use of light with wavelengths from peaks at the red, blue and violet bands.

The human eye uses only a small portion of the electromagnetic spectrum to see with: the wavelength of visible light between about 790 and 390 nm. This visible light is further broken down into colours—the long wavelength end of the visible light spectrum is perceived as red and at the short end of the spectrum is violet.

Lightwaves slightly too long to be red are called infrared, while wavelengths slightly too short to be violet are called ultraviolet. Objects appear to be the colour of the light they reflect. If all colours are absorbed by a leaf except for green, then the leaf will appear green. The wavelength of the electromagnetic field determines its colour (if visible) or its type (if not).

Photosynthesis in plants makes the best use of light with wavelengths from peaks at the red, blue and violet bands.

Chlorophyll A is the blue-green pigment in plants and two peaks of absorption occur at 665 nm (red) and 465 nm (violet-indigo). Chlorophyll B is the yellow-green pigment in plants and absorbs light at two peaks of 640 nm (red) and 450 nm (indigo-blue).

The colours in the valley between the two spikes, between 600 and 500 nm (the green and green-yellow bands) are not used as much and are mostly reflected by the plant, which is why most plants have green foliage.

An ideal light source should supply wavelengths including 665 to 640 nm (red) and 465 to 450 nm (indigo). A rule of thumb is that cool lights lean toward the blue-violet side, while warm lights tend toward the red-orange side.

Intensity

Waves not only have length, but also height or amplitude.

The greater the amplitude, the more energy it contains and the brighter the light. A light at 550 nm will appear green—

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is one of the most important facets to a successful indoor garden and indoor gardeners should understand at least the basics.”

either dim at low intensity or bright at a high intensity—but the colour will remain the same. The greater the intensity, the more energy is transmitted.

A lumen is the light of one candle. A lux is that light from 1-m away, spread over a square area 1-m wide. A full moon on a clear night lights at about one lux, a well-lit indoor room is about 400 lux and bright sunlight is about 100,000 lux.

Light levels drop exponentially over distance. An object twice as far away will receive only one quarter of the light since the light is spread out over four times the area.

Lighting efficiency

Power comes from a source, such as a wall plug, and goes through a process to give off light. How much of this power is converted to useful light is known as the lighting efficiency. If the process produces 683 lumens (lm) of light per watt (W) of energy used, perfect efficiency has been achieved. Fire gives off light, but most of the energy is expressed in the infrared wavelengths and, therefore, is not very well suited for growing plants. Incandescent lighting has an efficiency of about 6% (10 to 30 lm per W). LEDs are also 6% efficient. Fluorescents are about 10% efficient (30 to 100 lms per W), metal halides 14% (70 to 125 lm per W) and high-pressure sodiums clock in at 5% efficient (60 to 140 lm per W). It is worth noting too that the excess heat generated by lighting systems is often the largest source of wasted heat in a garden.

while a plant three times as far only receives one ninth.

If a 400-W bulb gives off 50,000 lm in an area 1 m to a side, then the bulb gives off 50,000 lux. These lights are used for areas 0.5 m to 3 m to a side. This same bulb could be used to light an area 2 m on a side, but it would deliver only 12,500 lux to the plants. A 600-W bulb giving off 95,000 lm at 1 m (a bulb size well-suited for 1-m to 1.2-m gardens) still delivers only 23,750 lux at 2 m. A 1,000-W bulb may give off 130,000 lux, which would be overkill for 1 m, but 32,500 lux over a 2 m space is more reasonable. These bulbs are also well-suited for gardens of 1.5 m to a side.

Measure your grow space and you’ll be able to draw out different scenarios until you find one you like. For example, in a space measuring 1.5 m by 3 m, two 1,000-W lights, two or three 600-W lights or three 400-W lights could be used as a general guideline. However, make sure you can deal with any waste heat your lights generate, as cooked plants perform even worse than under-lit ones do!

There are many factors involved in choosing the perfect lighting system for an indoor garden. The better informed you are, the better the chances are you’ll be happy with the results.

Matching the light to the space

One number that is often listed represents lumens, which includes all the light given off by a source (including the lesser-used wavelengths), but at least it is an estimate to work with. The amount of light that ends up actually hitting your plants drops off as an inverse square to the distance. At 2 m, the lux is reduced to one quarter and at 3 m it is reduced to one ninth. A plant that is twice as far from the light source only receives one quarter of the light,

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SOIL

BASICS (Get Excited!)

by Lee McCall

Growing in soil doesn’t need to be complicated—Lee McCall shares his favourite ways to set up a basic soil-based garden.

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Soil Basics

Soil gardening is one of my favourite methods for producing flavours, aromatics, essential oils, terpenes or resins from fruiting, flowering or blooming plants or trees. Growing in a healthy organic soil mix helps eliminate some of the hassles or problems that finicky or oversensitive plant varietals might run into in certain hydroculture systems. A quality organic potting soil provides ease of adaptation to plant-specific needs in terms of nutritional uptake, beneficial microbial colonisation, moisture retention and available oxygen for the root system, with little room left for error.

These important factors can be controlled and influenced according to individual style—and every gardener will reinvent the wheel, so to speak, in order to come up with a system that works to his or her satisfaction.

The first step I focus on is developing a mix that is just right for me. Everyone has different opinions about what the ideal soil mix is comprised of—for example, is a soil that holds more water or less water more effective and what are the pros and cons of each formulation? My personal preference is a denser soil mix that holds more water weight and tends to take longer to dry up. Coco and forest humus possess exceptional water-retention properties and provide an ideal refuge for beneficial microbes. Along with a highquality peat, these are the three primary ingredients that comprise the base foundation for what, in my opinion, is the ideal soil mix. White sphagnum peat moss has decent capillary action and tends to hold less water than coconut coir, but increases the cation exchange capacity of nutrients.

Currently, I favour an equal 50/50 ratio of Alaskan humus to high-quality coconut coir, and the darker the better.

Once this is thoroughly and evenly mixed, I take two parts of it and cut in one part peat and perlite at a 60/40 ratio.

Perlite increases drainage properties and aeration in any soil or soilless mix. It seems a chunkier grade is preferred nowadays, compared to the traditional BB-sized stuff that used to be found in many cheap potting mixes.

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Coco and forest humus possess exceptional waterretention properties and provide an ideal refuge for beneficial microbes.

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Soil Basics

Finally, 10% high-quality worm castings should be added to the total volume of the mix. Castings are a readily available source of plant nutrients that will stimulate growth and enrich the overall body of your soil mix.

Soil amendments are available by the boatload and more appear on the market every day. Worm castings, bat and seabird guanos, kelp or seaweed meals, oyster shell, azomite, crab meal, poultry litter, pyrophyllite clay, bone and fishbone meals—these are just a few of the many popular natural and organic amendments that will enrich the soil and provide complete nutrition in a time-released formula that is fully customisable to the grower’s preference. The more dry amendments that are available in the soil mix, the fewer liquid concentrated nutrients you’ll need to add, so long as the necessary elements are available to the plant. However, before you go and dump boxes of additives into your fresh new soil base, research what they will do for your crop and in what increments. I use two separate mixes—one designed to stimulate lush, green, leafy structural growth in plants that are in a vegetative stage, and the other containing higher amounts of phosphorus and potassium, designed to encourage healthy fruit set and flowering development in blooming crops. Transplanting from the vegetative mix into the flowering one allows the crop an easier transition from one stage of growth into the next with less overall stress and provides the required nutrients in satisfactory ratios. Used in combination with certain liquid supplements or compost teas, peak growth potential is achievable at all stages with most plant varieties with these two formulations.

Once your super soil mix is complete you can either let it sit so it can compost or pot it up and use it

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right away. Obviously space is a factor if a composting stage is in your plans, as the soil mix will need a place to sit for somewhere between 45 to 90 days. Composting will break down many of the dry fertiliser elements into plant-available forms ready for absorption, but if this stage is skipped it isn’t the end of the world—the addition of enzymes and microbial inoculants will help make the non-available nutrient elements in the soil mix available to your plants. You can also reuse old soil, if you wish, from the previous harvest. This can be labour-intensive, but it also helps reduce overall waste from the garden. I would avoid reusing soils that were exposed to root rot, mildews or root parasites for obvious reasons.

Also, a good soil mix should maintain a spongy consistency throughout its growth cycle—a healthy rhizosphere and soil mix, when fed properly, will have immense amounts of fungal activity, causing the soil to stay spongy and absorbent.

Before potting up any containers, try lining the bottom of your containers with light expanded clay aggregate or diatomite to cover up the drainage holes and prevent soil from falling out. This will enhance oxygen supply to the roots and the drainage properties of the soil mix and increase feeder root production. Lately, air-pruning containers, both fabric and injection moulded, are my primary choice for both soil and soilless gardening—both root growth response and uptake of water seem to benefit from the air-pruning technology the containers impose. You’ll also eliminate the hassle of

A simple rule of thumb is to ensure that the temperature remains around 24°C when the lights are on and that there is anywhere from 30 to 50% relative humidity in the garden.

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Soil Basics

root circling and becoming rootbound too quickly by implementing these types of containers in the growroom. Wick systems are also advantageous as they require less watering maintenance. I definitely favour the kind of root development that wick systems create due to the constant capillary action in the root system—these roots are ductile but thick and usually fill up any available space in and around the growing medium. I assume that because the capillary action initiates the uptake of the proper amount of oxygen and water, the plant is able to produce the exact root system it needs for constant feeding and ideal elemental absorption.

Watering your soil is a topic that everyone seems to have different opinions about. How much water should go into each container? How often should I water? Should I fertilise with every watering? This is an issue that is often made to seem more complex than it really is—you should water the soil based on the types of plants being grown. For example, fast-growing annuals that develop vigorous root and shoot growth in order to produce a fruit, flower or seed at the end

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I feel a plant is ready for water when I can pick it up easily, despite its overall mass.

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of their cycle might consume larger volumes of water than cacti, succulents or plants like orchids that absorb water and nutrients through foliage and aerial roots. Water uptake and consumption will also depend on the size of the plant and pot, as well as on temperature and humidity.

A simple rule of thumb is to ensure that the temperature remains around 24°C when the lights are on and that there is anywhere from 30 to 50% relative humidity in the garden.

This type of atmosphere will promote healthy water uptake by the plants along with a dense and vigorous root system so long as harmful pathogens are not introduced. Water every plant only when it needs it, judging by weight. This can be tedious work for larger gardens, but it will ensure that every plant gets touched at least one time in the growroom. I feel a plant is ready for water when I can pick it up easily, despite its overall mass. One litre of water weighs roughly 1 kg without any elements added into it, so once fertiliser is added to the mixture and given to the plant, there is a noticeable weight gain. I feel that providing water to the plant approximately six to 12 hours before it can show any signs of wilt is ideal, if possible. If you’re using liquid fertilisers or supplements, I recommend consistent usage as opposed to alternating feedings with water—use lower nutrient concentrations more often and it should provide the intended results.

These guidelines are my recommended basic building blocks any time I am gardening in soil. You’ll likely want to change a few things in your garden, but that’s okay—this guide is intended to be for reference only, not a set of immutable rules that will apply in the same manner to every soil-based garden. Every grower faces a different situation and every garden reflects the grower’s individual style.

Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

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by Chad Garbet Nothing is worse than finding pests in your garden or your growroom, and it’s no different when those pests are tiny fungus gnats.

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Maximum Yield |  May/June 2013

Fungus gnats are a common nuisance to many gardeners. This tiny black creature with a slender thorax (much like a miniature mosquito) is annoying when in the area and its larvae eat away at precious root growth, destroying plant structure. Even the smallest amount of fungus can attract them, and infestation can happen quickly— often before most can notice. The larvae—translucent, greyish-white mini worms with black heads—hatch from small grey silk-like cocoons.

Any signs of any of these creatures can stress gardeners out, and most people will immediately think of turning to pesticides. Now, that might be a good option, but one should always remember that a pesticide is a poison. So, that being said, pesticides should always be used as a last resort. Luckily, we have other options. There are now natural-based gnat products on the market.

Also, as humans have dealt with pests naturally for thousands of years, it is possible to take things into your own hands.

Pesticide-free options are almost always an easy fix and, being the busy gardener that I am (like most gardeners), easy sounds like it saves some of that precious time.

First, you have to think like the gnat. Be the gnat. Now, that we are gnats: aren’t you kind of hungry? After all, we see that there’s a bunch of hungry gnats out there on our plants, so now we have to figure out what they eat and how to get rid of that. They are called fungus gnats so that saves us some brainstorming. Fungus is the primary food source for gnats. These little buggers are attracted to it like the scourge. Fungus might not even be apparent at the time, but these pests smell it out. Small amounts of fungus are easy enough to clear out. In bad fungus cases, we might want to move directly out of the growroom. For small fungus infestations, an easy solution is baking soda. It’s in most refrigerators, cupboards and pantries, so it saves us a bit of time and

some money. Mix about a 15 ml of baking soda and a single drop of dish detergent per litre of water, remembering to shake well. Spray this on your plants lightly about once every three days for about two weeks. The baking soda raises pH, thus causing fungus to stop its growth, and the detergent makes sure the area is clean, thus stopping anymore fungi from forming.

Now that the fungus gnat’s main food source is gone, hopefully no more fungus pests will be attracted. After this, the current population’s numbers will start to dwindle down. You might find the few stragglers, but this is okay; home remedies sometimes take time.

Now, like Superman, the fungus gnats have a kryptonite.

It’s cinnamon. Those little guys can’t stand it.

You can see them squirm when you lightly dust the soil with the cinnamon. Also, the same effects are present when you water with chamomile or spearmint teas. (I personally think the cinnamon works the fastest.) Gnats will literally flee the scene, leaving only a few egg sacks.

However, you have to be persistent and repeat a few times or they will multiply and come back. After a few weeks of treatment, you will see the fungus gnats are not present. To make sure the little pest’s don’t come back, make sure your garden or growroom is always clean.

For heavily effected plants, these home remedies might not work and pesticides might have to be applied. Remember, this is only a last resort; try to do the all-natural ways first.

Still, there is another way to get around pesticides and home remedies. Mother Nature provides us with more bugs to fight against the pests. Bugs that eat other bugs… seems pretty neat to me. Nematodes and hypoaspis miles are two great warriors to use to get revenge on the fungus gnats. The nematode is a parasitic round worm that enters the pests’ larvae and releases a bacterium into the host, killing it within 48 hours. Hypoaspis miles is a preditory mite that also feed on the young of the fungus gnats. Another bug that can work is the ladybirds; if no aphids can be found, these guys will resort to other pest (they’re also a fun bug to have around).

pesticides should always be used as a last resort.”

Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

55

Ric Sorrentino and his fiancée, Sue.

talking shop

AT A GLANCE Company: Simply Hydroponics Australia Owners & Locations: Ric Sorrentino, Hoppers Crossing Store 5/411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Crossing, Vic 3029 Phone: +61 (03) 9360 9344 Paul Sorrentino, Epping Store 8/59-61 Miller St., Epping, Vic 3076 Phone: +61 (03) 9408 4677 Stef Sorrentino, Pakenham Store 6/3-11 Bate Close, Pakenham, Vic 3810 Phone: +61 (03) 5940 9047 Web: simplyhydroponics.com.au E-mail: enquiries@simplyhydroponics.com.au Motto: “Growing is Easy, it’s Simply Hydroponics!”

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Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

There are now three Simply Hydroponics locations in Australia, and while the three owners all share the same love for indoor gardening, they also share the same last name. Read on to learn more about what has contributed to the company’s 20 successful years in the industry.

With three Simply Hydroponics superstores based around Victoria in Australia, as well as an online store, you can shop with comfort and peace of mind knowing that no matter where you are, you’re never too far from your favourite indoor gardening store.

Ric Sorrentino opened the first Simply Hydroponics store in Hoppers Crossing almost 20 years ago.

He has dedicated most of his adult life to the hydroponic industry and has a wealth of knowledge. Ric pioneered many growing systems, which are still in use today. His easy-to-use, three-pot recirculating system, for example, is one of the best systems available today. It is on display at the Simply Hydroponics Hoppers Crossing location.

Ric’s new star recruit to the Hoppers crew is Susan, his fiancée. She’s done a great job in bringing new ideas to the Hoppers store and taking up the administration and accounting side of the business, enabling Ric to move forward and transform the store into the fresh and modern store it has become today.

Since then, Simply Hydroponics has grown with the addition of new stores in two convenient locations, Epping and Pakenham. Paul Sorrentino opened the Epping store five years ago, bringing with him new energy and a unique passion for new innovative ideas. He always ensures that Simply Hydroponics is at the cutting-edge of the latest technology and products. Paul is teamed up with his wife, Leonie, who keeps the administration and accounting side running smoothly to free Paul up to really explore and test the everincreasing range of new products coming onto the market.

The Pakenham Store opened 18 months ago by Stef Sorrentino, who is affectionately referred to as “da sista.” Stef brings the business a new level of professionalism and a newschool way of thinking that adds a fresh new dimension to the business.

Don’t be fooled by this girl’s swanky and petite façade; she’s dynamite.

Simply Hydroponics is also fortunate to have Ron, another member of the family, working in the business.

new products onto the market. The following products are available now in 1-, 5- and 20-L packs: • Rapid Coco Liquid Nutrient Concentrate (N-P-K ratio 3-2-5) is a two-part liquid coco peat formula containing humic and fulvic acids. The product is a superior two-part coco specific formulation, with fulvic acid to boost nutrient transport directly to the roots. The recipe also includes natural amino acids and stimulants.

• Rapid PK Liquid Nutrient Supplement (N-P-K ratio 0-13-14) is a soluble phosphorus and potassium product containing trace elements. Rapid PK is contains more than one chelated trace element, making it a leading PK product on the market right now.

• Rapid Nitro Liquid Nutrient Supplement (N-P-K ratio 4-0-9) is a soluble nitrogen and potassium product with fulvic acid and trace elements.

This new supplement from Simply Hydroponics is one of the only nitrogen and potassium supplements on the market containing trace elements and organic humic acids.

The products mentioned above complement the company’s existing and highly successful Rapid Platinum Grow & Bloom Liquid Nutrient Concentrate products. Rapid Platinum is amongst the highest in concentration in comparison to other leading brands on the market today, ensuring your hard-earned dollars go further. While this was initially its finest selling point, it was the vastly improved results customers were reporting

that resulted in its enormous success. It has become by far Simply Hydroponics’ best-selling nutrient. Customers have, with success and confidence, used Rapid Platinum Liquid Nutrient Concentrate range for 12 years.

At Simply Hydroponics, the goal is to provide customers with the best tools and knowledge to help give them the best returns for their investment.

“With a growing number of repeat customers, the results speak for themselves. Happy customers always come back because they were given the right advice and the right products the first time,” says Stef.

So, the next time you’re in the Victoria area, be sure to visit any one of the three Simply Hydroponics stores, meet the owners and staff, and take advantage of the great service, quality products and competitive prices available.

Or, just visit simplyhydroponics.com.au in the meantime for more information and online purchasing. Just remember, it’s not hard to grow plants; it’s Simply Hydroponics!

Leonie, Paul’s wife, keeps the Epping store’s administration and accounting side running smoothly.

Stef “da sista” Sorrentino of Simply Hydroponics’ Pakenham store.

Paul Sorrentino of the Epping store is always exploring and testing new products.

Ric (L) and Ron (R)

Having been a part of Simply Hydroponics since the beginning, Ron knows the industry well. He is loyal and committed and is an integral part of all three stores.

Simply Hydroponics is a family-owned business, committed to personal and friendly service. Professional advice is always available and customers are offered premium products with the best quality and value for money. Now, the public is invited to celebrate Simply Hydroponics’ 20th birthday in 2014.

During the celebration, people will have the chance to take advantage of some incredible in-store promotions.

Stay tuned for more info at the stores and via the company’s website (simplyhydroponics.com.au).

When it comes to new products, customers are switched on more than ever before, so introducing another new product isn’t always easy. Knowing this, Simply Hydroponics enlisted the expertise of a qualified nutrient chemist to create new products and ensure they exceed the highest of standards.

This is not an easy task considering there are so many nutrients and plant enhancing additives already on the market. That’s why Simply Hydroponics is proud to have confidently introduced some new additions to its range of nutrients, and have unleashed three

Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

57

You Tell Us

Jeremy Wright from Growright Solutions recently spoke with Maximum Yield about how the company’s award-winning plant additives are helping growers all over Australia.

Tell us a little about how your company started and who the people behind Growright are.

Growright Solutions was born out of the desire to create a superior yielding fertiliser in the hydroponic market. We were established in 2003 and are currently based in Holden Hill, a suburb of Adelaide, South Australia. We manufacture and distribute Hydromino®.

The original A&B formula was designed and created by a soil scientist of the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO), Kevin Handreck. Kevin is also the author of “Growing Media for Ornamental Plants and Turf,” first published in 1984 and last revised in 2002.

What is your company’s philosophy?

The philosophy here at Growright Solutions is to constantly strive to be the pinnacle of superior plant nutrition. We deliver all of our hydroponic products free in-store within South Australia, and on all interstate orders with a total invoice value over $1,000.

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Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

How do you decide on which products to create?

Growright Solutions stays attentive to the consumers needs and desires by asking and listening to them directly, which governs the products we create.

Which is your most popular product, and why do you think that is?

Our most popular product is Wormilizer due to its organic nature and incredible results. This product is made of liquid worm castings, which is the organic matter digested by worms, creating nature’s finest soil conditioner essential to plant health.

You’ve been in business for more than 10 years. How has your business evolved and can you share any words of wisdom with those who are just starting up?

Growright has evolved by constantly asking and listening to our customers at all levels. Knowing what they want is how we grow and know what we want.

Hydromino has some very significant achievements under its belt. Can you describe those?

Hydromino was the first hydroponics fertiliser in the world to use the unique combination of aminos and surfactants in its formula. It’s the first one-part fertiliser to be truly non-precipitating and provide all the elements essential for plant growth.

Highland Grow & Flow Hydromino is amino and surfactant enhanced (two distinct amino compounds and an antimicrobial surfactant). The aminos assist in the delivery of the micronutrients and the anti-microbial surfactant helps prevent against unwanted plant disease.

This combination makes Hydromino one of the most technologically advanced hydroponic fertilisers available today.

What are your goals for the future?

Growright Solutions will continue to meet all our customers’ demands and needs whilst striving to be at the cuttingedge of technology. At Growright, there is always something in the R&D stage; all I can say is, watch this space!

Is it

Dead?

by Heather Rhoades

Plants do not have vital signs like a heartbeat or breathing in and out—which would make

it easy to tell if it is truly dead or alive. Instead, you have to rely on more subtle clues...

How do you tell if a plant is dead? While this might seem like an easy question to answer, the truth is that telling if a plant is truly dead can often be a difficult task. If your plant has lost all of its leaves or the leaves have all gone brown, don’t panic. If you suspect your plant is dead, but you are not sure, the fastest way to tell if it is dead is to check the stems. The stems of the plant should be pliable and firm and will have a green cast on the inside if they are still alive.

If the stem is mushy or brittle, check the roots for the same conditions.

The roots too should be pliable but firm. If both the stems and roots are brittle or mushy, the plant is dead and you will simply need to start over.

Is the plant really worth saving?

If your plant is not dead, the next step is to decide if you really want to make the effort of nursing the plant back to health. Keep in mind that a plant might still die despite your best efforts. Also, the plant will look utterly pathetic for weeks, month or even years. Is it worth spending the time to recover what might be a lost cause, or could you get a comparable but healthy plant at the local nursery or store for a reasonable price?

If this is a plant that has sentimental value or is hard to find, then it is certainly worth saving; otherwise, you should just start over again.

What to do when only the roots are still alive?

If the roots are still good, but the stems are dead, you will be hoping that the plant regrows from the roots. Cut away the stems a third at a time. You might find that as you get closer to the roots, parts of the stem might be alive. If you do find living stem, try to leave as much as possible. If you find no living stem, leave 5 cm of the stem intact above the soil.

Place the plant in conditions where it will get roughly half the amount of sun that is normally recommended for that plant. Water only when the soil is dry to the touch. If the plant is able to, you will see new stems sprout from around the remaining stem in a month or two. If you do not, recheck the roots to see if the plant has died.

What to do when the stems are still alive?

Trim away as much dead stem as you can find on the plant. Place the plant in indirect light or in conditions where it will get roughly half the amount of sun that is normally recommended for that plant. Water only when the soil is dry to the touch, but do not let the soil dry out completely. In three to four weeks, maybe less, you will hopefully start to see new stems or leaves being produced where the old leaves were. As the leaves and stem become more fully developed, cut away any parts of the stems that are not producing leaves or stems.

If you do not see any new leaves or stems after a few weeks, recheck the stems on the plant and prune away the dead wood as the stem dies.

Remember, even with all the love and attention in the world, it is sometimes not possible to save a badly damaged plant. Sometimes you just have to start over and try not to let what happened before happen again.

Reprinted from Gardening Know How (gardeningknowhow.com)

Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

59

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors AUSTRALIA ACT South Pacific Hydroponics

#2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609 (02) 6239 2598

South Pacific Hydroponics

70 Oatley Court, Belconnen ACT 2617 (02) 6251 0600

NEW SOUTH WALES ABC Aquaculture

54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259 (61) 2 4393 3131 ASE Hydroponics

Hobby Grow

6/46 Through Street, South Grafton NSW 2460 (04) 2283 8069 Home Harvest

423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216 (02) 9567 8841 Hyalite Moorebank

6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9824 3400 Hyalite Villawood

2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 (02) 9723 7199 Hydro Masta

Factory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 (02) 9477 3710

100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 (02) 8812 2845

Ballina Hydro

Hydro Masta Pty Ltd

3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478 (02) 6686 7321

76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121 (02) 9869 3011

Brunswick Hydro & Aquarium Supplies

Hydro Net

19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 (02) 6685 1552 Criscete Hydroponics and Organics

Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5779

Dr. Van Der Bloom’s Hydroponics Supplies

5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450 (02) 6651 9992 Dubbo Hydro & Tobacconist

2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4334 6955 Hydro Place

1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287 (02) 4965 6595 Hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies

2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 (02) 4958 1489 Hydro Shop Pty Ltd

Retail Stores are listed alphabetically by city in each state.

Northern Nursery Supplies Pty Ltd

14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 (02) 6563 1599 Nowra Hydro

68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 (02) 4423 3224 Nutriflo Hydroponic Systems

19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 (02) 4323 1599 Parkview Plants

20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 (02) 6581 1272 Quik Grow

510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 (02) 9636 7023 Quick Grow

823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 (02) 9546 8642 Quik Grow Pty Ltd

490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 (02) 9568 2900 Simple Grow

Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 (02) 9604 0469 Tweed Coast Hydroponics

Uncle Wal’s Gardenland

Ezi Grow Hydro

B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4333 5700

56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro - Head Office

18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795 (02) 6337 1485

Favgro Hydroponics Growers

107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536 (02) 4472 7165 Felanza - Hydroponics

140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205 (02) 9556 1494

General Hydroponics

7/14 Sunnyholt Rd., Blacktown NSW 9676 (02) 9676 8682 Grow Australia

57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (02) 9326 0307

31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 (02) 6550 0221

Hydro Wise

Home Grown Aquaponics

14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 (02) 6921 5911 Hygrow Horticulture (Greenlite)

252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 (02) 9369 3928 Indoor Sun Shop

745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 (02) 9808 6511 Indoor Sun Shop

Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9822 4700 International Fans

PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 (02) 9833 7500 Kyper’s Tools and Hydroponics

Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 (02) 9473 5000

Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mullumbimby NSW 2482 (02) 6684 4928

Grow Your Own

Lismore Hydro

Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5179

1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311

Happy Grow Hydro

Lismore Hydroponics

15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750 (02) 4732 2870

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rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311

Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

Walsh’s Seeds Garden Centre

Hindmarsh Hydroponics

Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 (07) 5591 6501

13/8a-8b Hartley Drive, Thornton NSW 2322 (02) 4028 6388

Westside Lighting & Electrical (Ezi Range)

PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 1 800 661 475

Wollongong Hydroponic Center

318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 (02) 4225 8773

NORTHERN TERRITORY Katherine Hydroponics Centre

17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 (08) 8972 1730 QUEENSLAND A Happy Medium Hydroponics

Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 (07) 3809 3322 Allgrow Hydro

13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 (07) 3376 7222 Aquatic Oasis

Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 (07) 3245 7777 Billabong Hydroponics

Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 (07) 4126 3551

2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 (07) 4096 6443

Eye Lighting Australia Pty Ltd

881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 (07) 4636 1077

PO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 (07) 3335 3556

SOUTH AUSTRALIA ------------------------------------------

Green Power Hydroponics

2/80 Beerburrum Road, Caboolture QLD 4510 (07) 5428 1133

H2 Gro Pty Ltd

Hydro Supplies

Hydroponics Grow All Year

E.T. Grow Home

Port Pumps and Irrigation

(02) 6885 1616 Ezi Grow Hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770 (02) 9832 1610

Ezi Grow Hydro

Harvest Time Hydroponics

Grow Hydro

2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 (07) 5524 8588

1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 (02) 4588 5826

Tumbling Waters Hydroponics

5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 (07) 3204 8324

250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 (02) 4423 0599

Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 (02) 4960 0707

42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830

D-Bay Hydroponics Shop

22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 (07) 3816 3206 2 Sonia Crt., Raceview QLD 4305 (07) 3294 3253 Hyalite Varsity

5/11 John Duncan Crt., Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 (07) 5593 7385 Hydroponic Roots & Shoots

Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 (07) 4091 3217

Hydroponics & Garden Supplies

93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 (07) 4035 5422 Hydroponics Today

PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 (07) 4683 3133 Indoor Solutions

Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068 J&K Hydroponics

387 Progress Rd Wacol QLD 4076 +61 (07) 3271 6210 KY Garden

3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 (07) 3375 9098

Advanced Garden Supplies Advanced Garden Supplies

Pioneer Hydroponics

194 Doyles Road, Pleystowe QLD 4741 (07) 4959 2016 SA Hydroponics

Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 (07) 3285 1355 Simply Hydroponics Gold Coast

42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5596 2250

Slacks Creek Hydroponics

#13/22 Allgas St. Slacks Creek QLD 4217 (07) 3299 1397

Sunstate Hydroponics

1137 Ipswitch Road, Moorooka QLD 4105 (07) 3848 5288

Sunstate Hydroponics

Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8359 1800 Ascot Park

753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 (08) 8357 4700 Barry’s Hardware

Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 (08) 8281 4066 Bolzon Home & Garden

103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 (08) 8265 0665

Chocablock Discount Variety Store

15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 (08) 8396 3133 Complete Hydroponics

1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 (08) 8258 4022 Country Hydro

D & W Dependable Hardware

Festive Hydro

2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 (08) 8523 5100 Fulham Gardener Nursery

597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 (08) 8235 2004

Futchatec Distribution

4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 (08) 8447-1122

13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 2000 Hydro Heaven

Hydro Sales & Service

Hydro Technics

321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 (08) 8241 5022 Hydro Warehouse

181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 (08) 8377 1200 Hydro World

40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 (08) 8262 8323 Koko’s Hydro Warehouse

Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 5463

Larg’s Bay Garden Supply

239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 (08) 8242 3788

Martins Road Hydro

# 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 (08) 8283 4011 Mitre 10 Drive In

152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 (08) 8445 1813 New Age Hydroponics

135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 (08) 8351 9100 Owen Agencies

17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 (08) 8528 6008 Professional Hydro

4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 (08) 8353 0133 Professional Hydro

Glandore Hydroponics

Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 (08) 8365 5172

Greener than Green

113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA (08) 8532 3441

644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 (08) 8371 5777

52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noarlunga South SA 51 (08) 8386 2596 Greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale

35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 (08) 8382 0100

Greenhouse Superstore Royal Park

67 Aerodrome Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 (07) 5479 1011

4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 (08) 8447 5899

The Hydroponic Warehouse

Ground-Up Service Nursery

Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 (07) 3354 1588

Hong Kong Hydro

1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 (08) 8272 2000

45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 (08) 8287 6399

383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 (07) 4054 5884

14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 (08) 8395 4455

Amazon Aquariums & Gardening

North Queensland Hydro Supplies

Northern Hydroponics

Highland Grow & Flow

Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 (08) 8391 1880

Nerang Hydroponic Centre

Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 (07) 4728 3957

39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 (08) 8346 9461

3/8 Bredbo St Lonsdale S.A. 5160 (08) 8382 1191 ------------------------------------------

434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 (08) 8645 3105

27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5527 4155

Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 (08) 8244 0222

3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 (08) 8264 9455

Professional Hydroponics

Seaton Hydroponics

129 Tapleys Hill Road Seaton SA 5023 (08) 82682636 Soladome Aquaculture & Hydro

44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 (08) 8362 8042

South Coast Hydroponics

6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 (08) 8384 2380 State Hydroponics

174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 (08) 8341 5991

Tea Tree Gully Hydro

32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 (08) 8264 9455 Two Wells Hardware

86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 (08) 8520 2287

Barb’s Hydro and Nursery

15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 (03) 5674 2584

Urban Grow Solutions

West Garden Centre

5/ 60-68 Colby Drive, Belgrave Heights Vic 3160 (03) 9754 3712

Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 (08) 8255 1355

Hydroponics

Brew ‘N’ Grow

TASMANIA

4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 (03) 9783 3006

Advanced Hydroponics

Casey Hydro

26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 (03) 6344 5588 Aqua Hydroponics

Rear 45 Burnett St. New Norfolk Tas 7140 03 6294 9233 Ezy Grow

625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 (03) 6243 9490 Garden World

717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 (03) 6330 1177 ------------------------------------------

12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 (03) 5996 3697 Casey Hydro

78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 (03) 9796 3776 Chronic Hydroponics

31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 (03) 9646 8133

Complete Garden Supplies

580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 9776

Discount Hydroponics

Green Acres Hydroponics

Unit 1 46-48 Bingalong Rd, Mornington, TAS 7018 (03) 6245 1066

-----------------------------------------Growers Choice

225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6273 6088 Hydroponics Systems

131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 (03) 6278 3457

Hydroponic World

322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 (03) 6435 4411 Organic Garden Supplies

18 Princes Hwy. Doveton VIC 3177 (03) 9792 2966

Echuca Hydroponic Nursery & Supplies

23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 2036

Echuca Pump Shop

128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 7080

Excel Distributors Pty Ltd

2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 (03) 9495 0083

F.L.O.W. Plants and Environments

17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 (03) 6424 7815

66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 (03) 9510 6832

Tas Hydroponic Supplies

Gardensmart

99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6272 2202

The Hydroponic Company

69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 (03) 6273 1411

The Hydroponics Company

289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428 (03) 6340 2222

810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 (03) 9769 1411 Global Hydroponics

10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400

Greenleaf Hydroponics

VICTORIA

9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844 (03) 5176 0898

AAA Lush Hydroponics

Greenleaf Hydroponics

2-4 The Arcade, Junction Village, Melbourne Vic 3972 Albury Hydroponics/ Cappers Hydroponics

62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 61 (02) 6024 4029 All Seasons Hydroponics

Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 (03) 9739 7311 GreenLite - Ringwood

291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 (03) 9870 8566

Shepparton Hydroponics

87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 (03) 5831 6433

Simply Hydroponics

Bayside Hydroponics

5/9 Rutherford Road Seaford, VIC 3198 (03) 9775 0495Belgrave

1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 (08) 8322 0040

------------------------------------------

Hydroware

5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 (03) 9360 9344

1/54 Lara Way, Campbellfield, Vic, 3061 (03) 9357 8805

Simply Hydroponics

------------------------------------------

Sunlite Hydroponics

Hyalite Airport West

Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452 Hyalite Bayswater

4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946 Hyalite Global

10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400 Hyalite Westend

3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510 Hydroponic Central

110 Dynon Road West Melbourne Vic. 3003 (03) 9376 0447 Indoor Garden Company

29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 (03) 9416 1699

Impact Distribution

PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515 JB Lighting

492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399 Just Hydroponics Deer Park

8, 59-61 Miller St., Epping 3076 (03) 9408 4677

1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 (03) 5222 6730 Simply Hydroponics Pakenham

Factory 6/3-11 Bate Close Pakenham, Victoria 3810 03 5940 9047 Sunray Hydro

157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 (03) 5023 6422 Supply Net International P/L

PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 (88) 264-3600 The Hydroponic Connection

397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 (03) 9761 0662 Waterworks Hydroponics

Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 (03) 9465 1455

WESTERN AUSTRALIA Accent Hydroponics

Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9375 9355 Aqua Post

Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861

Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 (08) 9354 2888

Just Hydroponics Hoppers Crossing

Aquaponics

3/8 Motto Court Hoppers Crossing, 3029 (03) 8742 2830

Latrove Valley Home Brew Supplies

PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140 Living Jungle

345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055 Melton Hydroponic Supplies

18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256

Midtown Hydroponics

Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300 One Stop Sprinklers

1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177

Pam’s Home Brew & Hydroponics

Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 1800 640 222 Bunbury Alternate Growing Supplies

8/13 Worcestor Bend, Davenport, WA 6230 (08) 9725 7020

Creative Hydroponics

1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9528 1310 Great Southern Hydroponics

Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road, Bunbury WA 6230 (08) 9721 8322 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics

Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd., Maddington WA 6109 (08) 9452 0546

Greenfingers World of Hydroponics

Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 (08) 9274 8388 Greenlite Hydroponics

61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143

4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 (08) 9345 5321

Hydroponic Solutions

1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 (08) 9248 1901 Hydroponic Warehouse

Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9206 0188 Hydroponica

317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 (08) 9371 5757 Isabella’s Hydroponics

66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9306 3028 Johnson’s Nursery Garden Centre

30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 (08) 9921 6016 Neerabup Organic & Hydroponic Supplies

Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 (08) 9404 7155 One Stop Hydroponics

947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 (08) 9471 7000 Perth Hydroponic Centre

Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 (08) 9478 1211 Reptile and Grow Store

Unit 7 - 117-119 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9527 2245 Richo’s 4 Hydro

Unit 7/22 Franklin Lane, Joondalup, WA 6027 (08) 9301 4462 Southwest Hydroponics

Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 (08) 9534 8544 The Grow Room

1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 (08) 9356 7044 The Great Indoors

Unit 1/25 Gillam Dr. Kelmscott WA 6111 (08) 9495 2815 Bloem

PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 (08) 9217 4400 The Watershed Water Systems

150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9473 1473 The Watershed Water Systems

2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 (08) 9495 1495 The Watershed Water Systems

1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 (08) 9274 3232 Tru Bloomin Hydroponics

NEW ZEALAND Easy Grow New Lynn

3018 Gt North Rd New Lynn, Auckland 09 827 0883

Easy Grow Manukau

15/69 Wiri Station Road, Manukau, Auckland 09 263 7560 Guru Gardener

14 Molesworth St., New Plymouth 06 758 6661 Otaki Hydroponics

1083 S.H. 1 South Otaki 06 364 2206 House of Hydro

221 Waiwhetu Rd., Lower Hutt Wellington Pet and Garden

10 Fitzgerald Ave., Christchurch 03 377 2507 Grow and Brew

14a Flexman Place, Silverdale Auckland 09 426 2095 Green Day Hydroponics

Cnr of Maunganui Rd & Tawa St., Mt Maunganui 07 575 4090 Switched on Gardener

Number 189 (Lower) Dent Street, Whangarei (09)438 0223 Switched on Gardener

Unit 159 Central Park Drive, Henderson (09) 837 1210 Switched on Gardener

Unit 1/60 Ti Rakau Drive, Pakuranga (09) 576 0296

Switched on Gardener

Number 1c Sunshine Ave, Hamilton (07) 850 8351 Switched on Gardener

Number 513 Heretaunga Street West, Hastings (06) 876 7885 Switched on Gardener

Number 62 Kaiwharawhara Road, Wellington (04) 472 5265 Switched on Gardener

Unit 7/67 View Road, Glenfield (09) 443 0106 Switched on Gardener

Number 1 Rata Street, New Lynn (09) 826 4444 Switched on Gardener

Number 57 Cavendish Drive, Manukau (09) 263 4336 Switched on Gardener

Number 427 Cameron Road, Tauranga (07) 579 9840 Switched on Gardener

Number 1060 Fergusson Drive, Upper Hutt (04) 526 3913 Switched on Gardener

Number 3 Pascoe Street, Nelson (03) 546 4769 Switched on Gardener

Number 9 Buckley Road, Linwood (03) 381 0937

3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 (03) 9540 8000

Grow 4 XS

Palms & Plants

Growsmart Hydroponics

47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 (08) 9841 3220

7/36 Port Kembla Dr. Bibra Lake, WA 6163 (08) 9434 5118

Switched on Gardener

Banksia Greenhouse and Outdoor Garden

Holland Forge Pty Ltd.

175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 (08) 8285 7575 Prestige Hydroponics Pty. Ltd.

Hydro Nation

Water Garden Warehouse

Switched on Gardener

530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9801 8070

Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 (03) 9435 6425 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 (03) 9764 1372

S 2.10 Level 2, 343 Little Collins St. Melbourne VIC Australia 3000 61 4 187 81083

41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 (08) 9336 7368

14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017 (08) 9443 7993

Number 143 Tuam Street, Christchurch CBD (03) 374 5682 Number 313 King Edward Street, Dunedin (03) 456 1980

Maximum Yield | May/June 2013

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COMING UP IN July / August The Root Whisperer Functional roots require two things: oxygen and a continuous supply of carbohydrates. Discover which factors contribute to optimal essential element absorption via your plant’s roots.

Eco-friendly Horticultural Lighting: The Future is Here Things are looking brighter than ever in the field of horticultural lighting, and it’s going to take a lot less energy to get the job done in the future.

The Secret to a Long & Happy Life (for your ph meter) Handheld pH meters can be a gardener’s best friend, but nobody wants to keep replacing them when they start malfunctioning too soon. It turns out, it’s all about the electrodes.

Maximum Yield July/Aug will be available in July for free at select indoor gardening retail stores across the country and on maximumyield.com Subscriptions are available at maximumyield.com/subscriptions

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Excitement is continuing to build for the 2013 Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expo Tour. We just wrapped up a great weekend in Denver, Colorado, and are gearing up for our next stop in Novi, Michigan, on June 1 and 2. Start planning your appearance now and book your exhibit space today! Visit indoorgardenexpo.com for all the latest.

Maximum Yield is pleased to announce we are going to have more Facebook and Twitter activity than ever before. Look out for us on your news feeds as we’ll be asking followers for their best indoor gardening tips and tricks.

Some of the things we learn might find their way into our print editions! Also coming soon on Maximum Yield’s social media radar will be instructional videos from contributor Erik Biksa, who will share the videos on Maximum Yield’s YouTube channel.

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Maximum Yield |  May/June 2013