Maximum Yield UK Nov/Dec 2012 by Maximum Yield

UK November- December 2012

FREE s: Find ear G Newm the Fro ow Gr ld Wor

VENTILATION

MEDIUMS Achieving the Perfect Harvest

maximumyield.com

DIY Alert: Reuse Your Media

Consider the Climate Factor

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CONTENTS November/December 2012

FEATURES 70

Root Zone Temperatures

Best Cleaning Practices

Contain Yourself

by Alex Rea

by Karen Wilkinson

The Symbiotic Relationship Between C02 & Ventilation

by Lee McCall

Plug Plants

Reuse, Reuse, Reuse Your Media

by Guy Sela

by Grubbycup

Treat ‘em Bad & They’ll Taste Better by Dr. Lynette Morgan

DEPARTMENTS 8

From the Editor

Talking Shop

MaximumYield.com

Max Mart

by Raquel Neofit

Letters to the Editor

Industry's Latest

Water Culture Systems in the Greenhouse

Simon Says

Coming up Next Issue

MAX Facts

Do You Know?

Product Spotlight

Distributors

by Heather Brautman

Soil Basics

by Matt LeBannister

56 62

Tissue Culture

by Stephen Keen

Black Bugs Begone! Mark W. Boutwell

Is Checking pH Levels Really Necessary? by Jake Geraldo

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

FROM THE EDITOR | Linda Jesson The indoor gardening season is well under way and most of you have brought your crops inside. This issue focuses on mediums and ventilation, two important components of a successful grow that often get overlooked. The industry experts who contributed articles this month share some great insight on these topics to help you grow bigger and better. On the topic of mediums, Grubbycup details why (and how) to reuse your media and Lee McCall helps you set up a basic soil-based garden. Are your plants too hot or too cold? Are they getting enough CO2 or are they getting too much? Air in a growroom or greenhouse can be hot, stale and suffocating thanks to grow lights and other heat-emitting equipment. Your plants simply want to be comfortable, which is why Matt Lebannister talks you through controlling your environment to propel plant production. In addition to media maintenance and ventilation advice, this issue delves into some of the other top-of-mind growroom issues like best cleaning practices, container gardening and controlling root zone temperature. There is a lot here for you, so enjoy this issue and be sure to drop us a line with your success stories or queries. We are here to help!

Message from the

Editor Linda Jesson

contributors Heather Brautman’s hydroponics knowledge consisted of her favorite ride at Walt Disney World’s before she moved to California in October 2011. Since becoming Hydrofarm’s staff writer in February 2012, she’s been enjoying learning about grow media—like coco coir and perlite—not paparazzi. She has a master’s degrees in technical writing as well as PR/communications.

Lee McCall is an alumnus of Johnson & Wales University. His extensive culinary background helped him gain experience in and knowledge of ﬁne dining and food production, which developed into a career in the hydroponics and year-round gardening industry. Lee and his business partner use their Denver-based businesses to educate the public on sustainable gardening and high-quality produce.

Grubbycup has been an avid

Karen Wilkinson works for EZ-

Stephen Keen has been an indoor

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.

Mark Boutwell II I stepped into my

Guy Sela is an agronomist and a

Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.

indoor gardener for over 20 years. His articles were ﬁrst published in the United Kingdom, and since then his gardening advice has been published in French, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Czechoslovakian and German. He is also considered one of the world’s leading authorities on crochet hydroponics.

Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored ﬁve hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz for more information.

CLONE Enterprises, Inc., as its social media editor. She came to them with a background in journalism and technical writing and is learning to grow, clone and write for the hydroponics community. She’s a budding gardener and loves growing her own vegetables.

ﬁrst Garden when I was about 4 years old. My Father would educate me on how the Indians taught the pilgrims how to survive using different techniques in farming. When I was in a garden my father would always forces us to use our space as effectively as possible. I think this is the reason why I gravitated to indoor garden as I got older.

gardening hobbyist for nearly 10 years. His personal successes with his garden led him to want to bring new ideas, mainly water-cooling, to the mainstream, which led to the founding of Hydro Innovations.

chemical engineer for his innovative software company, Smart Fertilizer (smart-fertilizer.com), which provides fertilizer management solutions. Applying his background in water treatment, he has lead a variety of projects on reverse osmosis, water disinfection and water puriﬁcation, and providing high-quality water for irrigation.

Raquel Neoﬁt is a freelance writer

for the horticulture, travel and lifestyle industries. She has a background in business and radio, and is an avid believer that hydroponics is the future. Follow Raquel’s writing on her blog, Black Thumbs Guide to Growing Green—the misadventures of the vertical herb gardening movement— and My Food Story on Facebook.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK, New Zealand and Australia. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.

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COMING UP ON THE WEB

GROA W PRO

LIKEOUR! T

Get ready for another year of indoor gardening expos

Maximum Yield is gearing up for another fantastic year of indoor gardening expos in the United States for 2013. Plan a trip to come learn from industry professionals; there's something for everyone! Watch indoorgardeningexpo.com for dates and full details, to be announced soon.

VOLUME 12 – NUMBER 4 November/December 2012 Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092

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Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

UK DISTRIBUTION Direct Garden Supplies Dutchpro Future Harvest Developments Europe Growth Technology Hydrogarden Maxigrow Ltd. Nutriculture UK CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS General Hydroponics Humboldt Wholesale Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply Nickel City Wholesale Garden Supply R & M Supply Tradewinds AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Dome Garden Supply Futchatec Growth Technology Holland Forge House N Garden Hydraspher

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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Commenting on Compost

First of all, I'd like to start by saying I love the magazine. The Greenhouse & Water issue (Maximum Yield July/ August 2012) had a lot of pertinent subjects. Can you publish an article on essential microbes? [It’s] a subject I just heard of from a knowledgeable person working at one of the indoor gardening stores in your directory. When I asked for Alaskan humus, wanting compost that was supercharged with microbes and many beneficial stains of fungus like mycorrhizae, he told me to look into essential microbes, populations of microorganisms and beneficial bacteria you can harvest, colonise and breed yourself. Thanks for increasing awareness in diverse issues pertaining to this beautiful art and science of growing plants in progressive ways. Sincerely, Oskar Newsman, aka G.I. Grow Stay tuned for upcoming issues of Maximum Yield for articles that highlight your specific requests and answer your questions.

via Facebook

We’ve Got You Covered

Great magazine this month. I hate to judge a book by its cover, but I knew from the cover I would enjoy it, and sure enough I am. Keep up the good work helping people get their maximum yield. Davy Stanford

Falling for You

Is there any way to get a subscription of Maximum Yield (MY) in the mail? I fell for MY and I always get excited for the next issue. I know there is the digital copy and it’s good for going green; and I know I can view the magazine on my smartphone but it’s just not the same. I like having the actual magazine in my hand that I can carry with me everywhere. I love the magazine and articles. [As a new cultivator], I have learned much from the MY mag. Thank you for your time and producing such a great magazine for free! Phillip Good Of course! A subscription form is available for download from maximumyield.com/subscriptions

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Nuts About Nutes

Loving the new issue this month! The focus on the nutrients was especially awesome. North Country Hydroponics

From Stressed Out to Easy Street

Because of your magazine I was able to pinpoint the problem of my garden. It was in bad shape for a couple weeks. Turns out heat stress caused by 37°C weather and no airflow, plus a small case of chlorosis is bad combo. I’m a first-time gardener; after about three years, [I became] seriously fed up with in-ground garden maintenance, weeding and such. It was too big of an area to maintain by myself, so I started a grow box. It’s much easier, I must say, as far as maintenance goes. I just want to say thank you for the education. Juan Martinez

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

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SIMON SAYS

What is a good disinfectant to clean out hydroponic units that can be used while growing a crop? Thanks, John There are many more people inoculating hydroponic systems with various microbe armies in today’s high-tech gardening environment. This is tempered by those people that feel the best way to run a hydroponic system is with zero tolerance to life forms, taking hydroponics back to its sterile roots. There is definitely a case to be made in both circumstances. Since your question relates to the disinfecting approach, let’s start there. Remember that whichever approach you take, having a clean growing area is the key to success; dirty spaces and equipment will always develop more problems than those that are clean and organised. When choosing the disinfecting route, there are a couple of options that can be useful while actively growing. An option that is popular with growers is the use of hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide can act as a disinfectant as it disassociates into water and free oxygen. This disinfecting effect will be temporary and might only last a few hours. Be cautious when using this substance, however, especially when diluting high concentrations in water. A better option would be a type of continuous disinfection rather than a staggered application of hydrogen peroxide. If you are concerned about water contaminants you might want to consider installing an inline UV sterilising system placed between the reservoir and the hydroponic units. A small bulb blasts the water with UV light as it passes through the filter.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

As long as this type of unit is well-maintained, it will virtually eliminate all biological issues within your water supply. Whether you are culturing helpful biology or banishing all biology, in both situations you want to be sure to focus on dissolved oxygen levels since most pathogenic organisms thrive in low-oxygen environments. This is directly related to water circulation and temperature, so ensuring water movement and low temperatures will both help dissolved oxygen. Also consider the use of supplemental oxygen supply, ranging in sophistication from air pumps to electrolysis systems. Something that more gardeners are attempting is to bring specific biology into their system. The concept behind this is to inoculate with beneficial organisms that will displace or out-compete undesirable ones. This is a delicate process that is gaining more traction, and for good reason: it can be very effective. There are a variety of bacterial and fungal-based products available in the market. These organisms are generally quite aggressive and will form what is called a biofilm on roots, thereby protecting the plants by essentially creating a perimeter shield. These organisms secrete all sorts of substances that can do much more that protect your plant. Check with your local shop to learn more about biological inoculants. Part of what makes organisms effective is their release of enzymes, which break down unwanted material. It is also possible to take advantage of enzyme-based products, which will do a great job cleaning up a system without adding biology into your set-up. There are several quality options, so research this opportunity if you don’t want to look at a living army in your water. Above all else, remember to take the time to scrub down your equipment and growing area between cycles. If you don’t, you might be setting yourself up for problems.

MAX FACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Why Store-bought Tomatoes Taste Like Cardboard The mischievous culprit of why tomatoes taste like cardboard is a gene mutation discovered accidentally around 70 years ago, and is now deliberately bred into nearly all modern tomatoes. This mutation makes tomatoes a uniform and seductive deep scarlet red when ripe, but it also deactivates an important gene responsible for producing the sugar and aromas that are essential for a fragrant and flavourful tomato. When researchers “turned on” the deactivated gene, the fruit had 20% more sugar and 20 to 30% more carotenoids when ripe. (Source: treehugger.com)

MAXFACTS hydroponic news, tips and trivia Community-supported Aquaponics Takes Off A community-led aquaponics scheme is being trialed in Bristol to see if urban fish farming is a viable option. The Bristol Fish Project is exploring a number of innovative techniques—from using black soldier fly larvae as fish food to utilising algae to balance the nutrients in the system—for more sustainable fish and vegetable production. Volunteers are being offered free or cost-price fish and green vegetables in exchange for working on the “fish allotment” project. (Source: treehugger.com)

Modern DNA Techniques Applied to Potato Disease Researchers led by professor Bruce Fitt, now at the University of Hertfordshire, have used modern DNA techniques on late nineteenth-century potato samples to show how the potato blight might have survived after the Irish potato famine of the 1840s. DNA was extracted from potato that had been dried and stored in glass bottles. The DNA was then analysed for the presence of the potato blight pathogen. The findings of this research has proved that the DNA technique applied to the potato samples is a useful tool in plant disease diagnosis to test seed potatoes or tomato transplants for the presence of the late blight pathogen. This technique can be further developed for testing for other diseases that affect food production. (Source: freshplaza.com)

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Commonly Used Pesticide Turns Honey Bees Into Picky Eaters Biologists at UC San Diego have discovered that a small dose of a commonly used crop pesticide, imidacloprid, turns honey bees into picky eaters and affects their ability to recruit their nestmates to otherwise good sources of food. Since 2006, beekeepers in North America and Europe have lost about onethird of their managed bee colonies each year due to colony collapse disorder. While the exact cause is unknown, researchers believe pesticides have contributed to this decline. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

Hydroponics for Social Welfare in the Philippines In Cebu, a province of the Philippines, hydroponics has been implemented in the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s relatively small urban spaces. This project is predominantly concerned with the high levels of poverty and alleviating malnutrition in densely populated urban areas, such as Cebu City. The Department of Social Welfare and Development and the Department of Science and Technology are both hoping that, through education of hydroponic methods, it will be possible to decrease the threat of food shortages and to turn some of the derelict areas of the urban environment into greener, more productive spaces. The project also encourages the reuse of plastic containers, helping to reduce urban waste. (Source: hydroponicsguide.co.uk)

Maximum Yield UKâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;|â&#x20AC;&#x201A;November/December 2012

MAX FACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Genome Annotation Project Complete Eagle Genomics, a bio-informatics company based in Cambridge, and Rijk Zwaan, a breeder and producer of vegetable seeds, have completed an innovative research project that will help develop seeds for farmers and commercial producers of watermelon, cucumber and tomato. Eagle used flexible cloud-based bioinformatics resources, coupled with their significant expertise in plant genomics, to enable Rijk Zwaan to analyse and annotate complete genome datasets for regulatory units (the regions within the genome that control the effectiveness of the traits of interest) within a few hours at a computational cost of approximately $100 per genome. Such annotation helps identify important genetic markers for traits that are of interest to plant breeders, such as disease resistance, taste and yield. (Source: freshplaza.com)

New Wyma Approved Service Agent for UK and Ireland Packers UK and Ireland growers and packers now have the support of a new local approved service agent for Wyma equipment. PJH Mechanical Engineering has been appointed to carry out commissioning, installation, servicing and training requirements for Wyma’s increasing customer base in the region. (Source: freshplaza.com)

How to Identify and Prevent Powdery Mildew Plant Disease Powdery mildew is a widespread disease with characteristic white spots that make your plants look like they’re covered in flour. Young, fresh growth is usually most susceptible, and the disease can lead to a loss of your fruit or vegetable crops and even kill entire plants. To control powdery mildew, avoid watering overhead and reduce the relative humidity around your plants with selective pruning of overcrowded and overgrown plant material. Also, remove and destroy any infected plant parts with signs of infection. You can also use a homemade spray made of 15 ml baking soda, 15 ml liquid soap and 15 ml vegetable oil mixed in 3.79 L water. Test spray and if there aren’t any adverse affects to your plant, apply to the entire plant once a week. Ideally, spray early in the morning after you have watered and on an overcast day to avoid burning your plant. (Source: treehugger.com)

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Linking Vitamin C and Twin Seedlings Biochemists at the University of California, Riverside recently found that increasing the level of dehydroascorbate reductase (DHAR)—a naturally occurring enzyme that recycles vitamin C in plants and animals—in plants increases the level of the vitamin, resulting in the production of twin and triplet seedlings in a single seed. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

Tomato Genomes Sequenced An international team of scientists, including researchers in the United Kingdom, have finally sequenced the tomato genome—both the domesticated type and its wild ancestor, Solanum pimpinellifolium. The sequences will help researchers uncover the relationships between tomato genes and traits and broaden their understanding of how genetics and environmental factors interact to determine a field crop’s health and viability. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S

HOTTEST ITEMS Ask for them at your local indoor gardening store. CANNA AQUA CANNA AQUA is a user-friendly range of recirculating systems. One of the big advantages of growing in a recirculating system is that the plants are in direct contact with the nutrient solution. Yields are high with CANNA AQUA because of the meticulous control of the nutrient supply during the plants’ growth and blooming phases. CANNA AQUA nutrients come in a Vega and Flores version. To complete the whole line, CANNA offers CANNA Clay Pebbles. For more information, please visit your local hydroponic shop.

New PK Boost

LUMii Timers

The Ionic family continues to grow with the IONIC® PK Boost. This product is formulated to supply the crucial elements needed for flowering at the closest possible levels to the plants’ requirements. This supplement is suitable for all crops at the flowering and fruiting stages of growth, and can be used with IONIC Bloom formulations or with any other well-formulated bloom nutrients. PK Boost 14:15 is more concentrated than our former Boost product. We are still advising dosage at 1 ml per litre, but suggest reducing frequency to a weekly dose. This amount will raise the EC by around 0.35 mS/cm and add approx. 60 ppm of phosphorus and 125 ppm of potassium. PK Boost is now available in 1, 2, 5 and 20 L, along with a new 300-ml size that comes complete with a measuring cap. For more information, visit your local hydroponics store.

LUMii has launched two new 24-hour plug-in timers. The LUMii 24-Hour Plug-In Timer is ideal for setting day and night (on and off) lighting periods, setting a heater to come on periodically and timing irrigation cycles. It is reliable and has a high-quality timer unit. It is ideal for use with CFL, T5 lamps and pumps. The LUMii Heavy-Duty 24-Hour Plug-In Timer is different. As the name suggests, it is designed to take high loads and has no problem dealing with the inductive loads produced by a 600-W ballast. This means no separate contactor is required. Use the LUMii Heavy-Duty 24-Hour Plug-In Timer for HID ballasts. For more information, visit your local hydroponics shop.

Award Winning Keep It Clean by Dutchpro Free your drip system from blockages and maintain the best working conditions possible with Keep It Clean. This plant-friendly cleaning agent removes and prevents algae and bacterial slime whilst also inhibiting the growth of fungi. Long-term preventive use ensures top results. It is suited for every irrigation system, and is available in 1 L and 5 L. Recommended dosage is 10 ml per 100 L water. For more information, visit your local indoor gardening shop.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Prima Klima’s Temperature Control In-line Fans now Distributed by Maxigrow Prima Klima Temperature Control In-Line Fans use an integrated fan controller and remote temperature probe to dynamically control the temperature. When the desired temperature is set, the fan controller controls the fan speed proportionally to the ambient temperature and prevents the fan from cycling. As a result, the fan controller maintains a constant temperature using subtle speed alterations for silent and efficient operation. The adjustable idle speed also ensures a negative air pressure is always maintained. The fans are built with high-quality components, including MES motors for 15% more airflow and flame-resistant casing. Visit your local hydroponics or indoor gardening shop for more information.

VitaLink Max A two-part hydroponic nutrient, VitaLink Max is a firm favourite. This product has a strong reputation for promoting healthy plants and yield, consistently. VitaLink Max contains highquality mineral salts and has unique cleansing properties, which reduce maintenance tasks—such as cleaning pots, tanks and pumps—when using an automated irrigation system. This growth and bloom nutrient is available in hard- and soft-water varieties to complement the water being used. This helps to further maximise the results achieved, as plants are receiving an optimum level of all nutrients. VitaLink Max is suitable for use with clay pebbles, perlite and rockwool. It can be used with recirculating and run-to-waste hydroponics systems. This product is available in 1-L, 5-L and 10-L bottles. For information, visit your local hydroponics retailer.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Clonex Mist We are pleased to announce a new product in the Clonex range. Clonex Mist has been in development for over three years now and has involved a team led by an internationally respected authority on propagation. Results of the impartial trial programmes at the Suntec laboratory in New Zealand were exceptional. Clonex Mist is designed to work in conjunction with Clonex Gel to produce vigorous, healthy cuttings with strong roots. It is simply used to mist cuttings from time to time during the rooting process. Clonex Mist contains no hormones and is completely safe and non-toxic for you and your plants. It is supplied in a ready-to-use 100-ml mister bottle, with a fully illustrated instruction sheet. Visit your local hydroponics shop for more information.

LUMii DIGITA ECO

VitaLink BioPac

The new LUMii DIGITA ECO is a fully electronic ballast that is available in two dual-wattage options (250 and 400 W, and 400 and 600 W). It uses technology that is microprocessor controlled and works at a higher frequency than the standard magnetic ballast, meaning more light to your plants. The LUMii DIGITA ECO is also more efficient than magnetic ballasts, which means that you get more output per watt of energy consumed. This ballast is one of the smallest and coolest running available. LUMii achieved this by creating a component set that does not generate a lot of heat. It is ultra-lightweight and has built-in safety features that protect the units’ circuitry if a short is detected. Visit your local indoor gardening or hydroponics retail shop for more information.

VitaLink BioPac, a natural bio-stimulant full of beneficial microbes, helps to convert unavailable nutrients into available nutrients, improves root zone functioning and suppresses disease. The beneficial microbes help the establishment of a microbial population, providing a continuous cycle of both carbon-based and mineral nutrients. The inclusion of both humic and fulvic acids allows better transportation of nutrients within the plant, and the plant hormones present also aid in root development, cell division and plant growth. This is available in 250-ml and 1-L bottles and is a part of the Add-it range. Note that this product is a living culture; therefore, you will see variations in appearance and smell, but this does not affect performance. For more information, visit your local hydroponics shop.

Award Winning Auto Flowering by Dutchpro The auto-flowering plants should be able to grow in constant light and should not require any changes to its set-up in order to kick-start the flowering process—thus giving beginners a much higher success rate. To support the whole auto-flowering process, and ensure your plants develop faster, we specially designed this hydro/coco and soil feed in both hard- and soft-water formulations. In short, the product has all the essential macro- and micronutrients necessary for exuberant growth and will fulfil all the specific demands needed to achieve the best results in a short time frame. This product is available in 1-L and 5-L sizes. For more information, visit your local hydroponics shop.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

TT Series In-line, Mixed-flow Fans by VENTS now Distributed by Maxigrow VENTS is an international leader in the ventilation industry, using stateof-the-art technology and high automation to research and develop innovative, quality products. The VENTS TT series consists of mixedflow, in-line fans (which are available in a range of sizes) for supply and exhaust ventilation systems. The fans are intelligently designed to provide a quiet, yet powerful, airflow, and use an integrated thermal cut-out with automatic reset to protect against overheating. VENTS TT fans can be mounted in any place—vertically or horizontally—within the duct system to suit every requirement. They can also be used individually for smaller ventilation systems or connected in series or in parallel to maximise air capacity. For more information, visit your local hydroponics shop.

Future Harvest’s the Heavies is now Called Bud Boom Bud Boom is a PK additive that also contains sulphur and magnesium, both of which are elements that help ripen plants. The key performance benefits are weight gain, increased flower density and enhanced flavour. It’s a boost for your crop in the final weeks of a flower cycle. Unlike some PK additives, this product only adds 0.2 to EC values (200), so full-strength fertilisers can be used without the need for dilution. Bud Boom will also only drop pH by around 0.7. Bud Boom hasn’t changed since 1995 and it delivers consistent results. It’s also super concentrated, making it an excellent value. Finally, Bud Boom is universal, so it can be used with any branded fertiliser schedule and on top of most additive schedules. Available now at select indoor gardening shops across the UK.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

VitaLink BioPlus VitaLink BioPlus, an effective vitamin-based root initiator and stress reliever, protects the plant’s root system and reduces the stress that can be caused by cloning and transplant shock. VitaLink BioPlus contains a mixture of B vitamins, beneficial bacteria and fungi, which help stimulate roots and increase root mass. The unique blend of beneficial bacteria and fungi is specifically tailored to promote strong, abundant root growth. Best suited for use with seeds, cuttings and mature plants; this is available in 250-ml and 1-L bottles and is part of the Add-it range. Note that this product is a living culture; therefore, you will see variations in appearance and smell. This does not affect performance. Visit your local indoor gardening retail shop for more information.

PLANT!T Systems New from PLANT!T is a range of hydroponic growing systems designed to gain optimum results and success. The range comprises of the PLANT!T gemini, a recirculating hydroponic system, and the PLANT!T aeros, an aerated deep-water-culture hydroponic system (available in one-plant, two-plant, four-plant recirculating and module options). All PLANT!T hydroponic systems are designed to the highest specifications. Not only do they perform with excellent results, but they look stylish too. The range is easy to set up, operate and maintain, and is suitable for all types of gardener. With PLANT!T, growing bigger and better plants has never been so easy. Visit your local hydroponics or indoor gardening retail shop for more information.

CANNA RHIZOTONIC CANNA RHIZOTONIC is a powerful algae-based vegetative stimulator for plant roots. It contains multiple vitamins and is 100% natural. CANNA RHIZOTONIC adds more than 60 microbiological substances to speed up the growth of a balanced root environment. For more information about CANNA RHIZOTONIC, please contact your local hydroponic shop.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Can RKW Fans now Distributed by Maxigrow Can RKW Fans with integrated temperature control automatically control fan speed to maintain a constant pre-set temperature. The fans use an internal probe to measure the air temperature as it passes through the extractor, and an intelligent time delay offsets sudden temperature changes for highly efficient control without frequent acceleration. The backward-curved centrifugal fan has a powerful airflow and an increased number of windings to prevent humming at lower speeds. A thermal cut-out protects against overheating. The fans are built using high-quality components, including flameretardant plastic casing and maintenance-free, long-life ball bearings. Can RKW fans are available in a range of sizes. For more information, visit your local indoor gardening shop.

SOIL

BASICS (Get Excited!) BY LEE MCCALL

Growing in soil doesn’t need to be complicated—Lee McCall shares his favourite ways to set up a basic soil-based garden.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

for me. Everyone has different opinions about what the ideal oil gardening is one of my favourite methods for soil mix is comprised of—for example, is a soil that holds more producing flavours, aromatics, essential oils, terpenes water or less water more effective and what are the pros and or resins from fruiting, flowering or blooming plants cons of each formulation? My personal preference is a or trees. Growing denser soil mix that holds more water weight and tends to in a healthy organic soil take longer to dry up. Coco and forest humus—I prefer mix helps eliminate some Alaskan—possess exceptional water-retention properties of the hassles or problems and provides an ideal refuge for beneficial that finicky or oversensitive forest humus—I prefer microbes. Along with a high-quality plant varietals might run Alaskan—possess peat, these are the three primary into in certain hydroponic ingredients that comprise the systems. A quality organic exceptional waterbase foundation for what, in potting soil provides ease retention properties and my opinion, is the ideal soil of adaptation to plantmix. White sphagnum peat specific needs in terms provides an ideal refuge moss has decent capillary of nutritional uptake, action and tends to hold beneficial microbial for beneficial microbes.” less water than coconut colonisation, moisture coir, but increases the retention and available cation exchange capacity of oxygen for the root system, nutrients. Currently, I favour with little room left for error. These an equal 50/50 ratio of Alaskan important factors can be controlled and influenced humus to high-quality coconut according to individual style—and every gardener will coir—the darker the better. Once this reinvent the wheel, so to speak, in order to come up with is thoroughly and evenly mixed, I take two a system that works to his or her satisfaction. parts of it and cut in one part peat and perlite at a 60:40 ratio. The first step I focus on is developing a mix that is just right

Coco and

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

SOIL BASICS Perlite increases drainage properties and aeration in any soil or soilless mix. A chunkier grade is preferred nowadays, it seems—compared to the traditional BB-sized stuff that used to be found in many cheap potting mixes. Finally, 10% high-quality worm castings should be added to the total volume of the mix. Castings are a readily available source of plant nutrients that will stimulate growth and enrich the overall body of your soil mix. Soil amendments are available by the boatload and more appear on the market every day. Worm castings, bat and seabird guanos, kelp or seaweed meals, oyster shell, azomite, crab meal, poultry litter, pyrophyllite clay, bone and fishbone meals—these are just a few of the many popular natural and organic amendments that will enrich soil and provide complete nutrition in a time-released formula that is fully customisable to the grower’s preference. The more dry amendments that are available in the soil mix, the fewer liquid concentrated nutrients you’ll need to add, so long as the necessary elements are available to the plant. However, before you go and dump boxes of additives into your fresh new soil base, research what they will do for your crop and in what increments. I use two separate mixes—one designed to stimulate lush, green, leafy structural growth in plants that are in a vegetative stage and one containing higher amounts of phosphorus and potassium, designed to encourage healthy fruit set and flowering development in blooming crops. Transplanting from the vegetative mix into the flowering one allows the crop an easier transition from one stage of growth into the next with less overall stress and provides the required nutrients in satisfactory ratios. Used in combination with certain liquid supplements or compost teas, peak growth potential is achievable at all stages with most plant varieties with these two formulations.

Once your super soil mix is complete you can either let it sit so it can compost or pot it up and use it right away. Obviously space is a factor if a composting stage is in your plans, as the soil mix will need a place to sit for somewhere between 45 to 90 days. Composting will break down many of the dry fertiliser elements into plant-available forms ready for absorption, but if this stage is skipped it isn’t the end of the world— the addition of enzymes and microbial inoculants will help make the nonavailable nutrient

Soil

amendments

elements in the soil mix available to your plants. You might also reuse old soil if you wish, from the previous harvest. This can be labour-intensive but it also helps reduce overall waste from the garden. I would avoid reusing soils that were exposed to root rot, mildews or root parasites for obvious reasons. Also, a good soil mix should maintain a spongy consistency throughout its growth cycle—a healthy rhizosphere and soil mix will have immense amounts of fungal activity, when fed properly, causing the soil to stay spongy and absorbent. Before potting up any containers, try lining the bottom of your containers with LECA (light expanded clay aggregate) or diatomite to cover up the drainage holes and prevent soil from falling out. This will enhance oxygen supply to the roots and the drainage properties of the soil mix and increase feeder root production. Lately, air-pruning containers—both fabric and injection moulded—are my primary choice for both soil and soilless gardening—both root growth response and uptake of water seem to benefit from the air-pruning technology the containers impose. You’ll also eliminate the hassle of root circling and becoming root bound too quickly by implementing these types of containers in the growroom.

are available by the boatload and more appear on the market every day.”

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

NEW MaxiGrow FP (sales)

SOIL BASICS Wick systems are also advantageous as they require less watering maintenance. I definitely favour the kind of root development that wick systems create due to the constant capillary action in the root system—these roots are ductile but thick, and usually fill up any available space in and around the growing medium. I assume that because the capillary action initiates the uptake of the proper amount of oxygen and water, the plant is able to produce the exact root system it needs for constant feeding and ideal elemental absorption. Watering your soil is a topic that everyone seems to have different opinions about. How much water should go into each container? How often should I water? Should I fertilise with every watering? This is an issue that is often made to seem more complex than it really is—you should water the soil based on the types of plants being grown. For example, fast-growing annuals that develop vigorous root and shoot growth in order to produce a fruit, flower or seed at the end of their cycle might consume larger volumes of water than cacti, succulents or plants like orchids that absorb water and nutrients through foliage and aerial roots. Water uptake and consumption will also depend on the size of the plant and pot, as well as on temperature and humidity. A simple rule of thumb is to ensure that the temperature remains around 24°C when the lights are on and

that there is anywhere from 30 to 50% relative humidity in the garden. This type of atmosphere will promote healthy water uptake by the plants along with a dense and vigorous root system so long as harmful pathogens are not introduced. Water every plant only when it needs it, judging by weight. This can be tedious work for larger gardens, but it will ensure that every plant gets touched at least one time in the growroom. I feel a plant is ready for water when I can pick it up easily, despite its overall mass. Four litres of water weighs roughly 3.6 kg without any elements added into it, so once fertiliser is added to the mixture and given to the plant, there is a noticeable weight gain. I feel that providing water to the plant approximately six to 12 hours before it can show any signs of wilt is ideal, if possible. If you’re using liquid fertilisers or supplements, I recommend consistent usage as opposed to alternating feedings with water—use lower nutrient concentrations more often and it should provide the intended results. These guidelines are my recommended basic building blocks for any time I am gardening in soil. You’ll likely want to change a few things in your garden, but that’s okay— this guide is intended to be for reference only, not a set of immutable rules that will apply in the same manner to every soil-based garden. Every grower faces a different situation and every garden reflects the grower’s individual style.

A simple

rule

of thumb is to ensure that the temperature remains around 24°C when the lights are on and that there is anywhere from 30 to 50% relative humidity in the garden.”

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

the

Symbiotic relationship Between

CO2 ventilation and

by Matt lebannister

Gardening indoors allows gardeners to control every aspect of the environment in order to propel the production of their plants beyond the norm. However, since everything in the growroom is interconnected, it can spell disaster if one aspect gets out of whack… 32

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Like the human body, an indoor garden is a chain of networks. If one element fails or is not working properly, then the whole chain becomes weakened and the system can collapse. For example, you can have many high-quality HID light bulbs running in a room, but it will make no difference if the nutrient levels are low. The same applies to CO2-enrichment systems—if you are not ventilating the room or keeping the temperature and CO2 at a plant-friendly level, you might actually be doing your plants more harm than good.

What can CO2 do for you?

2 CO enrichment also allows stems and branches to grow faster, often causing tremendous growth in plants during the vegetative stage.”

The air around us contains roughly 200 to 300 ppm (or, 0.02 to 0.03%) CO2. Plants do well in this range, but you can supercharge your garden by enriching the atmosphere in your growroom to 1,200 to 1,500 ppm (or, 0.12 to 0.15%). When every aspect of the garden system is aligned, this CO2 enrichment can double, even triple, yields. CO2 enrichment also allows stems and branches to grow faster, often causing tremendous growth during the vegetative stage. This can take weeks off the amount of time you need to grow your plants before they are large enough to move to the flowering stage. You can also get more crop rotations in each year, and you save time and money. Another benefit of enriching your growing atmosphere with CO2 is that plants in this environment can handle growing at higher temperatures. In fact, they prefer it. The ideal temperature for plants in a CO2-enriched environment is roughly 29.44ºC. With the temperature in the room higher, metabolic rates within the plant will accelerate and growth will increase. This also means that you can run ventilation fans less. In summer months, you won’t need to run your air conditioning as high or as frequently. (Keep in mind that fluorescent light bulbs should not be used if you’re enriching the atmosphere of your growroom; plants grown in this environment require intense light.)

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

the symbiotic relationship between c02 and ventilation

Generating CO2

There are many ways of generating CO2. Fermentation and decomposition, like the processes used to make wine or compost, are two examples. However, one issue with these methods is that it’s impossible to control that amount of CO2 being made—it can vary depending on certain factors, such as room temperature. Also, there is the potential for odours to be produced by the decomposing organics, which would attract pests. Using dry ice is another way to enrich your growroom’s atmosphere. Dry ice is frozen CO2 that turns to gas when it comes into contact with the atmosphere, without ever becoming a liquid. Unfortunately, it is difficult to store enough dry ice to replenish larger growrooms. Dry ice is only practical in the smallest growrooms, and even then it can be expensive. A CO2 emitter is a practical and cost-effective way of enriching a small, single-light room with CO2. This system uses tanks of compressed CO2 and pumps it through tubing throughout your room using regulators and valves. Since CO2 is heavier than air, it is most effective when the tubing is placed along the ceiling of your room above the plants. This will allow the CO2 to fall amongst the foliage where it can be used by the plants. Also, CO2 emitter tanks can be refilled at most hydroponics retailers at an affordable cost. CO2 generator systems are the most practical for larger-scale or commercial growrooms with multiple lights. This system involves creating CO2 by burning fossil fuels, usually natural gas or liquid propane. However, CO2 generators have a pilot light burning at all times, which can be a risk. There is also heat given off as a by-product and in rooms with multiple lights, extra heat can be an issue. Some people use butane lamps to generate CO2, or there is always the old-fashioned technique of sitting in your growroom and talking to your plants for a few hours a day.

When every aspect of the garden system is aligned, this CO2 enrichment has been known to double, even triple, yields.”

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Dry ice is frozen CO2 that turns from a solid to gas when it comes into contact with the atmosphere, without ever becoming a liquid.”

Regulation, ventilation and circulation

There are number of reasons we need to ventilate our growrooms, including excess heat and humidity. Ventilation is also needed when CO2 levels are toxic or too low. When enriching the atmosphere of your growroom with CO2, the trick is to manage all these things while keeping the CO2 in the air long enough for it to be of some benefit to your plants. Since CO2 is heavier than air, a couple oscillating fans positioned near the CO2 release point can do a fantastic job of circulating the CO2 and keeping it off of the floor. As mentioned above, there really is no way of regulating how much CO2 is produced when it’s generated via fermentation, decomposition or dry ice. You only have control of how much is allowed to stay in the room, and there are some high-tech devices for measuring these CO2 levels. Some you hook up to your fans so that they vent your room once CO2 levels reach a harmful point. Alternatively, you can set up your exhaust fans to a thermostat so they vent your growroom once the room reaches a set temperature too high for the plants to thrive. If you are using a CO2 generator or CO2-emitter system, there are some great interfacing products that totally monitor and control the levels of CO2 while monitoring the humidity and room temperature. They can shut off fans when CO2 is being generated, shut off CO2 generators when they hit the ideal level and then turn on fans when the room becomes excessively humid or too hot. These products can be expensive, but you can’t really put a price tag on total control.

Garden systems are only as strong as their weakest link. CO2-enrichment is no different. If you are not using your exhaust fans properly, providing the right nutrients or using the right lights, you will be wasting your time by enriching your growroom’s atmosphere. However, having all these factors dialed in while boosting CO2 levels can lead to tremendous growth and yields. When gardening with CO2, the sky’s the limit.

The air

around us contains roughly 200 to 300 ppm (or, 0.02 to 0.03%) CO2.”

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Plug Plants by Guy Sela

Testing and Monitoring Their Nutritional Status Guy Sela takes us through nutritional testing and monitoring procedures for those tiny precious seedlings…

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

plug plants Plug plant production presents many challenges to growers— seedlings are sensitive, plug volume is small and any mistake might cause critical delay or even loss of plants. Proper moisture content and nutrition are crucial to successful production.

Two-to-one (by volume) water-to-substrate Step 1: Take five to 10 plug plant cells as a representative sample and mix the sample to ensure uniformity.

Step 2: Air-dry the sample at room temperature. Unless

Once a problem occurs with plug plants it is very difficult to correct, so prevention is the key to successful plug production.”

the sample is very wet, it should be sufficiently dry in 24 hours. Step 3: Measure a known volume of your substrate sample in a beaker or a cup. The substrate in the cup should be slightly more compressed than it was in the plug. Step 4: Add two equal volumes of distilled water into the cup and swirl. Allow this to stand for 30 minutes. Step 5: Measure pH and EC directly in the extract.

Saturated media extract Once a problem occurs with plug plants it is very difficult to correct, so prevention is the key to successful plug production. Regular onsite testing and proper management can detect potential problems before they occur. Prior to planting, it is recommended that you perform a complete chemical analysis of your irrigation water and make sure that your fertiliser injectors are calibrated. Fertiliser injectors should be calibrated once a month and substrate properties— such as pH, salt content and moisture—should also be known. After planting you should test salinity and pH, check the fertiliser delivery system and closely monitor and manage the moisture level in the plug substrate. In this article, we will discuss the best way to perform these onsite tests.

In-house testing of substrates used for plug plants Testing substrate pH and EC using in-house testing methods is both quick and inexpensive. Here are some of the common testing methods, with guidelines for their interpretation. Regardless of the testing method you choose to use, make sure that the samples you take are representative of the crop to be tested. Do not mix species, as different species have different nutrient and pH requirements. Wearing gloves will eliminate the danger of contaminating the plugs with your hands.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Step 1: Take 10 or more plug plant cells as a representative sample and mix sample to ensure uniformity. You should collect 113.4 to 226.8 g of substrate. Step 2: Place the sample in a cup and slowly add distilled water while stirring the sample continuously. Add water until the sample is saturated. This determination must be made visually—the sample should behave like a paste and the surface should glisten, but there should be no free water on the surface of the sample. Step 3: Allow the solution to stand for 60 minutes. Step 4: Extract the solution from the substrate by squeezing it through a paper towel— a vacuum system could also be used. Step 5: Measure EC and pH in the extract.

Leachate pour-through method This is probably the most convenient method for testing your substrate chemical parameters—another advantage of this method is that the procedure does not involve damage to the plants tested since the substrate is never disrupted. Results might vary substantially, though, depending on the leachate percentage of the total irrigation amount. Many growers don’t take the percentage of leachate into consideration and so might receive less reliable results. Step 1: Irrigate the crop, making sure the substrate is thoroughly wet. Allow the substrate to drain for 30 to 60 minutes. Step 2: Add enough distilled water to get 59.14 ml of leachate. Step 3: Measure EC and pH in the leachate.

Squeeze method This method for testing the nutritional status of plug plants was developed by North Carolina State University. It is simpler and faster to perform than the two-to-one extract and the saturated media extract, since it is not necessary to dry the sample. It is also considered to be more representative than the other methods, since no subjective addition of the correct amount of water is involved. Step 1: Irrigate the crop with fertiliser, making sure the substrate is thoroughly wet. It is very important to perform this test only after fertilisation. Step 2: Allow the substrate to drain for one to two hours—it is necessary to wait at least one hour in order to allow the fertiliser to come into equilibrium with the substrate. On the other hand, waiting too long could result in depletion of nutrients from the substrate by the older seedlings. Step 3: Sample substrate from at least five plug trays and mix the sample to ensure uniformity. Step 4: Place the collected sample in a paper towel or cheesecloth and squeeze the solution from the substrate into a cup. Step 5: Measure EC and pH directly in the extracted solution.

Interpretation of Soluble Salt Levels (Electrical Conductivity) of Substrates (mS/cm) Rating

Twoto-one method

Very low salt levels, indicating very low nutrient status

0-0.25 0-0.74 0-1.0

0-1.0

Low fertility. Suitable for seedlings and salt-sensitive plants

0.250.75

0.752.0

1.02.5

Acceptable range for most established plants

0.751.25

2.03.5

2.54.5

2.55.0

High fertility. May be suitable for high-nutrientrequiring plants

1.251.75

3.55.0

4.56.5

5.06.0

Can cause root damage

>2.5

>6.0

>8.0

Saturated media extra method

Pour– through method

Squeeze method

Interpretation of pH Levels for Substrates (pH levels are the same for all of the described testing methods) Acceptable range Iron-inefficient plants

5.4-6.2

General

5.8-6.4 6.0-6.6

Iron-efficient plants

Interpretation of results Your interpretation of the results will depend on the method you used. The tables shown here give general guidelines for interpreting the results, using each of the described methods.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Reuse, Reuse,

Reuse Your

Media

by Grubbycup

During harvest time, there is first the joy of collecting the fruits of your labour, and then starts the somewhat less entertaining chore of cleaning 42

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

up and getting ready for the next season. Here’s a way to cut down on the amount of stuff you have to throw away while you’re at it…

NEW Maxigrow FP (sales)

Reuse, reuse, reuse your media

The amount of refuse that your garden creates can be reduced if the growing media is reused. In fact, in the case of organics, reusing the growing media is my preferred method. Also, nutrients that remain in the plant waste material can be then recovered and reused. Reusing garden media is not always the best choice, however, as certain growing mediums— such as rockwool—are not very suitable for repeated use. Any plant material or media that has been exposed to a pathogen should also be removed from the system in order to prevent the disease from spreading. For example, a single plant infected with the dreaded tomato mosaic virus can infect growing media and future crops grown in it for years; hence why infected plant material and media should be isolated and destroyed. Another concern to be taken into consideration is that several chemical sources of nutrients can leave heavy metal and salts behind after macronutrients have been used, and this can result in slowly rising amounts of both toxins

Any plant material or media that has been exposed to a pathogen should also be removed from the system in order to prevent the disease from spreading.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

over a period of years. This problem is faced by soil fields where long-term heavy use of chemical fertilisers has damaged the natural microflorabased nutrition cycles. Still, even with the above considerations in mind, there are many times when reusing media and leftover plant material not only makes sense from an economic standpoint, but from a nutritional one as well. During growth, plants distribute the nutrients they absorb throughout the plant, not just in the harvested portions. As such, there is a quantity of valuable nutrients still locked in the plant material and roots, and the media attached to the roots. These nutrients can be reclaimed from the leftover plant material through composting. A hot compost pile will produce compost in a matter of weeks, but even a cold compost pile will often be ready for use in a matter of monthsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;just in time the following planting season. (Note that while any moist plant material will eventually decompose, making an actual compost pile helps to speed the process and to contain the mess.) The resulting compost is a valuable garden resource that, in soil gardens, can be used as an improving amendment to add to the growing media or as the basis for new potting mix. Hydroponic gardeners can use the compost for teas. Also, keep in mind that many organic nutrient sources can take months or even years to become processed by microfauna into available nutrients. As such, throwing away growing media before it has completed processing the available nutrients is like collecting the dinner plates halfway through

Maximum Yield UKâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; |â&#x20AC;&#x201A; November/December 2012

Reuse, reuse, reuse your media

the meal—you’re throwing away nutrients that have been absorbed by the media. Reusing media is important to maximising nutrient extraction and although reused hydroponic media might not appear as pretty as new media, it might in fact be a superior growing medium that improves with use. Remember, however, to rinse well any media that might contain high levels of salt or other chemical residue before reusing. In my own garden, the media I use is a comNutrients and additives bination of mostly must be added to the garden perlite, to replace that which is with a smatterremoved with harvests, ing of clay balls but there is little reason and grow stones to have to start from that I scratch each season. repeatedly reuse (I add fresh new media as needed). garbage bag and cover with a clear plastic tarp For composting, start tent. Allow to sit in the summer sun for several with the plant material days. Internal temperatures can be checked and root balls. Plant material with a compost thermometer. Peak temperagrown with either organic or chemitures of over 48.89ºC for a couple of weeks cal fertilisers can be composted to reclaim nutriis hot enough to kill many weed seeds and ents. Indeed, chemically fertilised plants tend to be garden pests. Higher temperatures (71.11ºC is larger than their organically grown counterparts and often easily obtained in sunny areas) will semitherefore can offer additional value when compoststerilise the media within a few hours, killing ing techniques are used. During fall harvest, there is most friendly and pathogenic microflora alike. not only a plethora of garden waste to deal with, but often leaves from trees. Combining even amounts of “greens” (high-nitrogen carbon waste like leafy plant leaves) with “browns” (low-nitrogen carbon waste throwing away growing media like tree leaves) in a pile will allow this garden trash to become compost. before it has completed Potting soil is also reusable and compostable, and processing the available while durable hydroponic media does not compost in the traditional way, it can be run through the nutrients is like collecting process alongside organic material to form a preamended compost material. the dinner plates halfway Even some questionable media can be salvaged through the meal. though a process known as soil solarisation—gnats in particular can be successfully treated with this method. Place the media in closed black plastic

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Media semi-sterilised in this method should have beneficial bacteria and fungi reintroduced after treatment, or mixed with inoculated soil before use. Indeed, adding additional nutrients and other enhancements to the composed media can improve the quality of the media and reduce the amount of additional nutrients that will have to be added during the growing season. Meals, manures, worm castings, kelp and granite dust are commonly added to replace lost nutrients. Peat moss, coir and garden soil are sometimes also added to improve structure. While we are considering reuse of resources, recirculating systems waste less fertiliser than drain-to-waste systems. If a drain-to-waste system is implemented, it should drain not to waste, but to an additional vegetable or flower garden plot. This would both maximise the use of purchased nutrients and minimise nutrient pollution leaving the garden. Gardens cannot be closed systems. Harvested material is removed from the garden, however, that does not mean the amount of additional resources required to enter the garden and the amount of non-harvest resources leaving the garden cannot be minimised to reduce both gardening expenses and carbon impact. In natural systems, both macronutrients and micronutrients grow plants, which then fall and decompose to become available for new plants to grow. Natural growth does not replace its growing media each year; it reconditions and improves the existing media over a period of years. Gardeners often think of gardens as an event, with a beginning in the spring, a summer in the middle and an end in the fall. In natural settings, gardens are a self-sustaining cycle. Proper additive application should seek to improve the media over time, not damage it. Nutrients and additives must be added to the garden to replace that which is removed as harvests, but there is little reason to have to start from scratch each season.

Maximum Yield UKâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; |â&#x20AC;&#x201A; November/December 2012

Treat‘Em Bad

They‘ll Taste Better

I m p rov i n g F l avo u r by Dr. Lynette Morgan Dr. Morgan shares some secrets for amping up the flavours in your hydroponic crops.

When it comes to good food, we are all looking for taste, aroma and texture. Sometimes these all come together to create a sensory delight, but when it comes to fruit, vegetables and herbs, appearances can certainly be deceiving. Those huge, red succulent strawberries or juicy fresh tomatoes at the grocery store might look fantastic on the outside, but biting into them can be an unpredictable experience— sometimes great, sometimes thoroughly disappointing. 48

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Treat ‘em bad and they’ll taste better

Strawberries might look fantastic, but flavour can be unpredictable.

WHAT IS FLAVOUR? Our perception of flavour is actually the result of many senses acting on a huge range of aromatics and compounds within the food we eat. In tomatoes alone, we have identified over 400 volatile aromatic compounds that contribute to overall flavour experience—and there are

“A great-tasting beefsteak tomato has a brix of at least seven, while poortasting fruit often have brix levels below five.” potentially many more to be discovered. While the taste buds on our tongues can detect the basic compounds we perceive as sweet, sour, salty or bitter, they cannot distinguish between small differences. Our main taste tool is actually our nose, which has receptors that bind to compounds and can detect volatiles in parts per trillion. The combination of the tastes we detect with our tongues and the more sophisticated feedback we receive from the back of the nose gives us our overall sense of flavour. 50

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

DO WE ALL TASTE FLAVOUR THE SAME? While we all have certain preferences, everybody’s perception of taste is different. A tomato or strawberry that one person considers particularly good might not even register as being tasty by someone else. There are many reasons for this. First, there are slight genetic differences in the way all people perceive flavour. There is even a small population of super tasters, who have a very high degree of flavour perception. Second, factors like cultural differences, age, health, gender and the memory of how something is expected to taste can play a role in flavour perception. For the ordinary hydroponic gardener, however, the main objective is just pleasing ourselves and those we are growing for, which makes flavour assessment a little easier and a lot of fun. WHY DON’T FRUITS AND VEGETABLES TASTE AS GOOD NOW AS THEY DID IN MY CHILDHOOD? This is one of the most commonly asked questions regarding modern day fruits and vegetables. One reason could be that our sense of taste declines as we age, so it’s our taste perception that has changed rather than the quality of the produce itself. Also, many people only recall really great taste experiences, so it can be hard for everyday food to live up to these golden memories. Another reason might indeed be horticultural. Modern cultivars are bred for yield, without a lot of regard for flavour. Many crops are grown through the winter in heated greenhouses under low light levels, so out-of-season produce will probably never live up to that childhood memory of backyard, summer-grown flavour.

WHAT MAKES A HIGHLY FLAVOURFUL HYDROPONIC FRUIT OR VEGETABLE DIFFERENT FROM A WATERY, INSIPID, TASTELESS ONE? This depends largely on the fruit, vegetable or herb being grown. In tomatoes and strawberries, for example, one of the major problems is a lack of sweetness. Sweetness is measured in brix, and most people can actually taste a difference of just one degree brix. A great-tasting beefsteak tomato has a brix of at least seven, while poor-tasting fruit often have brix levels below five. (Note that hand-held brix meters are not expensive and can be used by hydroponic gardeners who are keen to assess their own fruit.) The problem in capsicum and chillies is lack of capsaicin, the compound that produces their characteristic heat. For aromatic herbs like basil, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, thyme, mint and sage, the issue is low levels of the essential oils that give off characteristic aromas and flavours. HOW DO I IMPROVE THE FLAVOUR OF MY HYDROPONIC PRODUCE? Flavour improvement relies on some basic principles of plant physiology. First, restricting water uptake tends to concentrate compounds within the plant’s tissue, and many of these compounds are related to flavour and aroma. Applying slight moisture stress— increasing the EC to create a higher osmotic potential in the root zone—is a proven way to increase dry matter and flavour in many crops. Other stress factors can also concentrate volatile compounds. For example, herbs like basil, oregano, sage and rosemary can all have their flavour and aromas increased by applying high light, dry conditions, warm temperatures or high rates of air flow.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Treat ‘em bad and they’ll taste better

WHAT MAKES HYDROPONICS SUCH A GREAT TOOL FOR GROWING FLAVOURFUL PRODUCE? Hydroponic growing—in particular, protected cultivation— provides a number of tools for the manipulation of flavour. First, indoor gardeners can provide just the correct levels of light year-round, or even extend the amount of daylight to give plants that extra boost. Second, other conditions like temperature can be highly controlled to give optimum levels for photosynthesis and sugar production. Finally, indoor growers have a high degree of control over the root zone, which means elements like potassium—which is vital for the flavour quality of many crops—can be boosted at just the right stage to ensure the fruit is of the highest possible quality.

DO THE GENETICS OF MY PLANTS MATTER? The genetic makeup of hydroponic plants has a significant affect on their final flavour profile. Cultivars need to be chosen carefully and—in most cases—need to be tested, tasted and evaluated by individual growers. After all, it’s a waste of energy boosting flavours if you’re using cultivars that have poor flavour genetics in the first place.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

WHAT ARE SOME SPECIFIC EXAMPLES OF FLAVOUR IMPROVEMENT METHODS IN HYDROPONIC CROPS? For hydroponic tomatoes, the flavour profile and the sugar, acid and sodium content of fruit grown at an EC of 8.0 mScm-1 was far greater than in fruit grown at an EC of 3.0. However, increasing the EC to improve flavour via a higher percentage of dry matter in the fruit tends to give smaller fruit and lower yields. With hydroponic chilli crops EC levels as high as 8.0 mScm-1 have been applied to boost pungency with good results, although different chilli cultivars will respond differently to increases in EC. When using a higher EC to increase the pungency of chillies, it’s best to do so by increasing only the macronutrients in solution (nitrogen,

“Indoor growers have a high degree of control over the root zone, which means elements like potassium ... can be boosted at just the right stage to ensure the fruit is of the highest possible quality.”

potassium, phosphorus, sulphur and calcium) while maintaining the trace elements at normal EC strength levels. For crops such as onions, garlic, shallots and chives, the strong flavour and aroma we prize are derived from the presence of organosulphur compounds and have been boosted by using higher levels of nitrogen and sulphur in the nutrient solution. Boosting levels of sulphur has also been shown to increase flavours in brassica crops (such as watercress, arugula and kale) and condiment herbs (such as wasabi and horseradish).

When it comes to flavour improvement, indoor hydroponic gardeners have all the tools required to create unique and unforgettable taste sensations. While many new growers try to provide a luxurious, highly protected and stress-free environment for their plants, this can actually be detrimental to the flavour level of food crops. Slight to moderate stress applied to plants at the right time, combined with the right genetics, will concentrate the wide range of compounds and volatiles that make the great, distinctive flavour profiles of tomatoes, aromatic herbs, strawberries and chillies. For the savvy indoor gardener, there are infinite possibilities for flavour manipulation.

NEW Future Harvest HPH (sales)

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Root Zone Temperatures

Don’t Get Cold Feet! by Alex Rea

We seem to have a dial or machine for every condition in our growrooms: expensive CO2 equipment, timers for fans and water pumps, and thermostats for air temperature. But how many of us have any idea what our root-zone temperature is, let alone a way to control it?

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

The temperature of the root zone is often overlooked in today’s technology-driven indoor garden Why? The answer, it seems, is that while we are busy trying to keep the air cool from hot lights, we assume the roots are at about the same temperature. Not so fast! In a room that has a good temperature, say 25°C, the root zone could be up to 15 degrees cooler. This is because the transfer of heat from air to water is not very efficient. Also, the root zone can be shielded from the HID lights’ infrared heat by the plant canopy. This effect will be most noticeable if you are using rockwool on tables. Just feel your cubes—even in an otherwise warm environment, they will be cold to the touch. The roots will have trouble moving water in a situation like this, thus reducing the amount of nutrients they bring to leaf tissues. This causes slow growth and reduced yields. You will also notice that the root zone stays wet longer because it takes a while to dry out, which leads to waterlogged roots. The best remedy for cold roots is to use a large heat mat and heat-mat thermostat under the entire area or flood table. These will allow the roots to constantly transpire water and nutrients up the plants stem, as well as encourage healthy root growth. The ideal temperature of your root zone is 20 to 23.3°C, about 10 degrees warmer than the cool 15.6°C or so your plants are currently enduring. Ion exchange is at its best at this warmer temperature, meaning the most possible macronutrients, micronutrients and oxygen are getting up to the tissues of your plants. So, get it right, people! The way to healthy yields is through healthy root-zone temperatures.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Best Cleaning Practices: How to Get the Most Out of Your System by Karen Wilkinson

Being a clean freak is a good thing when it comes to hydroponics. A dirty system will not produce quality results. Here are a few tips to keep things tidy and functioning properly… If there’s one thing I can’t stress enough, it’s the sanitation and maintenance of the unit’s inner workings. With out this, your hydroponic system can’t pump out consistent, quality results. Once it’s locked down, however, cloning healthy baby plants is smooth sailing. Below are tips for keeping your system and growroom clean, and a list of commonly overlooked or missed steps in that process.

Avoiding sick manifold syndrome (SMS) One of the more common, yet easily avoidable, issues that can occur if a hydroponic system is not properly maintained is bacterial growth build-up in the system’s manifold. This is called sick manifold syndrome (SMS) and there is one simple solution to combating it: remove all misters after each cycle and clean according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cleaning your neoprenes If not replaced following each cycle, the neoprene collars that hold the stem cuttings can be cleaned and reused. (That being said, I recommend only doing so for three cycles.)

Cleaning and storing units between cycles Stagnant water equals death. In other words, don’t put off cleaning the system after transplanting, as the risk of contamination increases tremendously. And if storing the system during the off-season, put it back in its original packaging or in trash bags to keep it free of dust and debris. 56

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Commonly overlooked cleaning steps Some parts of the system, due to their intricate nature, can be susceptible to bacterial growth if not properly scrubbed. Misters, the manifold, neoprenes, laser lines and drains are easy to clean when using a bleach-water solution recommended earlier.

Reducing cross-contamination A clean growroom, tools and grower are crucial when growing multiple plants. With that in mind, here are some helpful tips on reducing the potential for cross-contamination by keeping it clean.

The Growroom •

•

• •

Be sure to clean reservoirs weekly or biweekly (or as specified by the manufacturer) to ensure proper nutrient and pH levels. Set up a routine—possibly every two weeks—to kill and prevent pests. The best way to have a pest-free growroom is to prevent them from even becoming a problem. Keep cords off the ground. Not only is this an obvious safety precaution, but it helps when sweeping debris and leaf matter from the floor. If using a reusable medium, flush it thoroughly and sterilise completely. Finally, after a cycle is complete, it’s best to clear out and sanitise the whole grow room and all utensils.

The Tools: •

Sanitise and clean clippers and shears with alcohol or flame and make it a habit to do so between plants, which will cut down possible cross-contamination. It’s also best to sterilise them when finished with a task, so that you’re putting away clean tools for the next use.

•

• •

Clean your pH and TDS meters regularly according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Keep fan blades free of dust, along with the filters, as clogged filters can reduce its efficiency. Keep lights and hood glass clean and clear to maximise the amount of light shining through. Over time, dust slowly builds, so it’s hard to notice, but it happens and is easy to avoid. Clean measuring cups after each use and clearly label spray bottles to avoid any confusion. Immediately clean up any spills (liquids or solids) that occur.

Personal Hygiene: •

Thoroughly wash your hands before entering the growroom. If you’re a smoker, wash anything that’s touched tobacco because it can spread the tobacco mosaic virus, which hinders growth and transfers easily by touch. • If recently in a greenhouse, field or anywhere with increased exposure to pests, shower and change clothes before entering the growroom. You don’t want to inadvertently bring bugs into your growroom. • As much as we love our furry friends, they should never be allowed in the growroom. They can easily transfer pests to your plants.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Contain Yourself:

Reasons to

Consider

Container

GARDENING by Heather Brautman

If you’ve grown something in a Styrofoam cup as a child you’ve already done some container gardening—but there’s a whole world of new possibilities out there for today’s grower…

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Nobody puts Baby in the corner (according to the late, great Patrick Swayze), but if Baby’s a seedling, put her in a container and you might just have something. You too can have the time of your life in very small spaces through the joy of container gardening. While it might seem limiting at first, what you will find is that container gardening is a way to broaden—not limit—your gardening possibilities. According to the University of Illinois Extension’s Successful Container Gardens website, container gardening is a way of growing that lets you customise your greenery and growth for any circumstance— this means you can container garden if you live in a sixth-floor, 50-sq-m flat or a multi-acre plot in the country side. In fact, one of the biggest pros of container gardening is just how much about it is up to you, which takes us to the first in our list of seven reasons to consider container gardening.

You’re the king of the world Not everyone can be Leonardo DiCaprio—but you can be the king (or queen) of your own world through container gardening. Container gardening removes any limits that might be imposed on you by climate, seasonal growth patterns or even the kind of restrictions you sometimes encounter if you live in an apartment or condo, which doesn’t allow outside planting. With container gardening, you can grow what you like.

"with container gardening, you've got the perfect excuse to upcycle."

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Contain Yourself: Seven Reasons to Consider Container Gardening

Upcycling: not just for hipsters If you’ve been to a craft show or visited DIY websites like etsy.com, you’ll have noticed the term upcycling. Suddenly, recycling just isn’t good enough—now you need to find newer, better uses for your stuff instead of just sorting it out at the curb. With container gardening, you’ve got the perfect excuse to upcycle. Check around your home for throwaways like yoghurt cartons, coffee cans and even old planters and pots relegated to your garage. As the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension puts it, “If it holds soil, it’s a container.” All of these items would make ideal homes for your new container garden—in fact, smaller items such as those old (cleaned out, of course) yoghurt containers are the ideal size to line a windowsill and start growing your own salad fixings. Suddenly, you’re a trendsetter— you’re not only growing your own, but you’re reducing your waste footprint by upcycling as well!

Choose your own adventure With container gardening, you have so many choices—and each choice you make will reveal something about you as a gardener. You’ve got your choice of the actual containers you’ll be growing in, but then you also get to choose your growing medium. In most cases, soil and nutrients will be the options you’ll choose, but don’t rule out hydroponics. In many cases, hydroponics is container gardening—just on a much larger scale. Once you open up to that option, you’ll have choices like coco coir, rockwool, perlite and other media in which to house your soon-tobe lush greenery. And, of course, you’ll also get to choose what you plant. It doesn’t matter any more if you only get sun three hours a day (for plants that need massive sun exposure daily) or if you experience morning cold snaps that would be deadly to fragile new growth—container gardening makes all of that irrelevant.

A gift for growing gifts Whether you already have a thumb so green it’s verdant or you’re just starting out, container gardening can make gift-giving easy. Remember that joy you felt as a child being able to say, “I made it myself”? Whether it was a macaroni face on a plate or a strange, floppy piece of pottery, DIY always seemed to mean more than store-bought. With container gardening, you get to say “GIY”—you grew it yourself. Got a friend who loves those lavender sachets? Decorate a few pots and get planting the real thing. Of course, good things come to those who wait—you’ll need to plan in advance if you’re going to grow your own gifts so that they’ll be fresh and ready when it’s time to bestow them on their eager recipients. You can even do themes—say, sprigs of mint in red-and-green painted pots for Christmas.

Menu master You probably can’t grow everything you need for a three-course meal in your container garden, but this doesn’t mean your container garden can’t contribute in a big way to your meal planning. You can grow all the elements you need to make an entire salad, herbs and spices to soup up sauces, plus fruits and vegetables to round out the meal. In many cases, you might even find yourself consulting the garden before you plan your menu—what’s sprouting, ripe and ready to pluck might be what’s for dinner that evening.

“While it might seem limiting at first, what you could find is that container gardening is a way to broaden—not limit—your gardening possibilities.”

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Going the extra mile

One of the biggest pluses of container gardening is just how flexible it really is. There’s no competition—you don’t have to worry about whether your neighbour has five azalea bushes that have bloomed before yours even took root. The container garden ball is entirely in your corner, and whether you want to bunt, kick or knock it out of the park is up to you. If you’d like to take things further, you can enhance your container garden with options such as grow

lights (available from hydroponics stores), automatic watering and more. You can also move the containers (another big bonus of container gardens is their portability) throughout the day to take advantage of the best sunlight. Depending on what you’re growing, a wealth of additives and nutrients to encourage bloom and taste can also be part of your daily routine—if you want it to. But you can also just fill a few containers with soil, plunk in your seeds or cuttings and enjoy the fruits (and vegetables) of your hard labour at your own pace.

The truth is out there Also known as “we are not alone”… Container gardening might seem, well, rather contained. It’s something you can do entirely on your own—but you don’t have to. Maybe you’re wondering how to get started, maybe you want to know what’s best to buy or maybe you want to find expert advice. While a quick check of the Internet can plant the seeds for you to get started, dig a little deeper to learn from those who really know. Novice and long-term container gardeners will find truly helpful information on many college websites—especially ones with agricultural extensions. On these websites, you’ll find suggestions on containers, watering, media and lighting and a list of recommended vegetables, herbs, fruits and flowers that do well in container gardening applications. There are also many books (in both print and electronic versions), web tutorials, videos and free sessions at gardening stores and local gardening clubs just waiting to help you get started.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

The Culture of the Perfect Plant by Raquel Neofit

Check out some of the ins and outs that Raquel discovered on her journey into the scientific realm of tissue culturing…

We’ve all heard the term “plant science” at some stage of our gardening adventures and tissue culture is truly the heart and soul of plant science. Tissue culturing strips a plant species of its internal workings and growth requirements. By the end, these plants have nothing to hide from scientific minds when it comes to the end game of propagating and multiplying.

What is tissue culture? Tissue culture is a scientific form of mass-harvest cloning from an extremely healthy plant called a motherplant. Once motherplants have reached high health levels, cuttings are taken from them and production begins. Tissue culture is based around totipotency, which—in its simplest form—means regenerating from a single cell to form a new plant. Plant tissue contains meristematic cells and it’s these cells that regenerate when they are anchored into an inert medium. Meristematic cells are the reason plant scientists can produce thousands of juvenile plantlets from a single original plant and why these new plants are all genetically the same. But why do plant scientists consider tissue culturing a more superior way to produce plants? Plant scientists believe clones produced by conventional methods, even under intense care, will not produce results as good as plants 62

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

grown in tissue culture. This is due to the sterile conditions and the high health of the motherplants used in the tissue culture process. Motherplants possess no pathogens, no microorganisms, no imperfections or abnormalities. This is accomplished by supplying the plants with optimum nutrition, hormones, light and temperature; treating them with a range of antibiotics; and constantly pruning them to encourage the absolute maximum foliage. (You’ll notice in the world of tissue culture the emphasis is on optimum— great or ideal won’t make the cut.)

How tissue culture plantlets are developed Once a new variety of motherplant is requested by a breeder, research is undertaken by laboratory staff to discover the plant’s specific nutrient and hormone requirements. Since every plant is different, each variety is generally tested and retested many times. The mother stock is treated with antibiotics to ensure it’s clean and free of diseases that can cause health problems or stunt growth. Once the motherplant is free from endogenous and endophytic bacteria, it is ready to be multiplied to build up the volume of mother stock. Then, once the mother has reached the initiation stage, mass production can begin. At this stage the new plants have come from, and are stored in, an artificial environment. There is no air porosity in the agar they’re kept in, so the plantlets are not functioning plants yet. While the roots look like real roots, they are only acting as an anchor at this stage—they aren’t fully functional. The leaves

The mother stock is treated with antibiotics to ensure it is clean and free of diseases that can cause health problems or stunt growth. also don’t have their waxy cuticles. In other words, the plants aren’t ready to function in the real world as a live plant yet. This won’t happen until they are planted in a medium. Once the plants are anchored in a medium, their meristematic tissues activate and produce new root, leaf and stem growth. Tissue culture plantlets need to acclimatise slowly to grow and develop their functioning root mass, and most breeders will use a dry mist or fog while these plants grow into a living plant. Breeders call this the “hardening off” stage. If you care for you plantlets carefully at this stage, tissue culture plants might grow more vigorously than plants grown from seed or traditional cuttings.

Here are some other hints for planting out your tissue cultures: If you do leave some of the agar behind, remember that hormones and nutrients contain high sugar levels, so it’s important to use a biological fungal control that contains Trichoderma when planting. Your breeder will give you the best nutrient recipe to use as an initial feed. Plantlets must be kept at appropriate humidity with a certain amount of fog to prevent drying out, so you need to keep an eye on them.

What tissue culture breeders want you to know •

• •

Why use tissue culture?

The plants are uniform in appearance and possess the same characteristics. As such, they grow at the rate and thus mature at the same time and require the same nutrients and water. Also, large quantities of plants can be reproduced easily from an established mother.

•

Think ahead: Tissue cultures are not mass produced and stored in a laboratory or a nursery waiting for buyers to order them. They are produced only when they are ordered. Allow time: Producing a new tissue culture variety takes time and planning—even more time than producing from seeds. Understand: Tissue culture is more expensive because it takes a lot of work to produce tissue culture stock. The manpower, hours, nutrients, research and development, and running the lab and glasshouses all increase the cost. Communicate: If you’re not sure about something, ask! For example, if you are having problems with deflasking, call the breeders; they do this job every day and are happy to share their knowledge and expertise.

Deflasking and planting

Tips from the lab

Tissue cultures come anchored in a gel-like substance—along the lines of agar—that contains all the nutrients and hormones your perfect little cultures need to survive in their protected, sterile container. It is imperative that these containers are stored correctly (in a single layer with adequate light sources) and it is essential that you follow a strict and careful protocol when handling and planting them out. The later process is generally called the deflasking protocol. Here are some of the basic rules you need to follow: • Plants should be deflasked within the time specified by the breeder; any longer and you risk killing the plantlet. • Only plant out one container at a time to avoid the culture drying out. In really hot conditions, spray the cultures to stop them from overheating. • Make sure your medium has a low EC reading. • Only use sterile planting implements and sterilise implements between containers in case there are fungal spores or bacteria present in the media. • When planting, remove the culture from the container and shake off excess agar before dipping the plant in a planting solution. Then make a hole in the medium and gently place the culture into it. The plant’s base should be level with the top of the medium when you gently close the planting hole. • Move the tray into a fog house and, if the supplier has recommended a foliar spray, start this right away. • As soon as new roots form, you can start to harden off (acclimatise) these plants and move them out of heavy fog.

Here are the top five biggest mistakes made by tissue culture beginners: • Treating one genus the same as the next. Not all tissue culture plants are the same. Cordylines are completely different from grevilleas, for example. Even the deflasking process is different. • Treating tissue cultures like regular cuttings. Don’t leave them exposed to the atmosphere or in adverse conditions for any length of time without protection. • Spraying the plants with chemicals. Juvenile plants cannot handle strong sprays, particularly oil-based sprays. • Putting tissue cultures in conditions that are not appropriate for them in the deflasking house. • Not properly weaning the plants out of their protected condition; that is, either reducing the humidity too quickly—which can dehydrate the plant and burn it—or too slowly—which can cause the plants to become waterlogged and susceptible to attack by fungal growth. Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Water Culture Systems Greenhouse in the

by Stephen Keen

Water-culture systems are popular with the indoor gardening set, but it also works well in greenhouses. Stephen Keen explains more about this versatile growing method. One of the joys of greenhouse gardening is that these structures accommodate so many styles of gardening. The types and numbers of plants that will thrive in a greenhouse environment

are nearly endless, as are the gardening methods we can use. One option that has grown in popularity in indoor gardening— but which also works beautifully in a greenhouse environment—is a water-culture (WC) system. If you’re not familiar with the concept, WC is a method of gardening whereby the plant roots are constantly submerged in a highly-oxygenated, constantly

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

circulated and temperature-controlled nutrient system. Using this method, plants tend not only to thrive, but to explode with growth. The high levels of dissolved oxygen in the water allow the roots access to air, which is why they can be constantly submerged without adverse effects. The reason the WC method is so successful for growing enormous and healthy plants is because the roots are constantly submerged in the nutrient solution, which keeps them hydrated and fed 100% of the time. The circulation and oxygenation of the water keeps the mineral salts in the nutrient solution from building up, which allows the plants even more access to nutrients. The result is a plant much larger than what is typically grown using traditional soil or hydroponic methods—which also translates into a larger per-plant harvest. WC gardening is also a very environmentally friendly way to garden, as there is no need to dispose of the water being used during the harvest cycle. In traditional hydroponic applications, nutrient water is typically discarded and replaced

WC system in a greenhouse at University of California Davis

every couple of weeks, whereas with a WC, the only water being used is the water the plants are uptaking and transpiring. Top-offs to the system are necessary because of what the plants consume, but it’s rarely necessary to discard and replace the nutrient water altogether until after a harvest is completed. Complete WC systems are available on any size scale; just check with your

local gardening store if you’re interested in exploring this type of growing system. Be aware that the constant introduction of oxygen and proper water circulation through the system is extremely important, and systems that you purchase should always include the correct water and air pumps for the size of system that you choose. Equally important to a WC system is a properly sized chiller. For a WC

system to work correctly, nutrient temperature must be maintained at approximately 18.3 to 20°C. Most greenhouses are much warmer than this (especially in the summer), so a water chiller must be employed. Insulating the reservoirs in a WC system will reduce the amount of heat that they can absorb from their environment, so this is strongly recommended to reduce the energy consumed by your chiller. A combination of radiant-barrier bubble wrap and cable ties does the trick nicely. The most accurate way to size your chiller is with a simple BTU test. To do this, measure the temperature of the water in your system during the hottest part of the day, wait one hour and measure the temperature of the water again. Subtract the high temperature from the low temperature—this is your differential. Multiply the number of litres in your system by 2.21, and multiply that number by your differential. The result is the total number of BTUs per hour that your chiller will need to be capable of removing. Most small gardens will need a chiller ranging from ¼ hp to 2 hp, depending on the size of the system, but some commercial gardens will need an industrial-sized chiller. Luckily, either option is available through most local hydroponics retailers. Also available are simple stainless steel coils, though which cold water circulates. Submerged in the nutrient solution, these enable you to cool multiple systems utilising a single chiller. This is an energy-efficient and money-saving option. You can take the energy efficiency even further if you’re using an evaporative cooling system in your greenhouse by dropping one of these coils in the reservoir for your evaporative cooling system. This way the chiller will be cooling your nutrients and the greenhouse itself, all with very little consumption of power.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

Black Bugs Be Gone!

Steps you Must Follow to Eliminate the Black Bugs on Your Indoor Garden Roots

by Mark W. Boutwell II

Fighting black bugs was one of the most humbling experiences Mark W. Boutwell II had in his growing career. Now, after taking the time to step back and reflect on the experience, he’s here to share his newfound battle strategies… 66

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

The black, sometimes yellowish, bug found on your roots is the root aphid. There are many species of root aphids, including the sugar beet root aphid, conifer root aphid and turnip root aphid. I had my first root aphid encounter about two years ago and it was the most crippling and expensive problem I have ever encountered. At this time in my life, I thought I had seen just about everything. I would have never had expected to go through as humbling experience as I did when I fought these root aphids tooth and nail. In fact, this bug just didn’t make me feel sick to my stomach because of the destruction it caused, but because it strait kicked my ass!

I know what you are thinking: “What the hell can I do if I get root aphids?” Great question; although, before I answer it, I want to let you know that there is no easy solution to root aphids. If you encounter root aphids, take a deep breath and go through the process with a more intent focus on learning from this experience instead of just saving your crop. Getting root aphids is not the end of the world; it’s just the potential end of that grow. It is a great way to get experience with root rot, testing pesticides, wilting, plant deficiency and identifying bugs at a fast pace. My first suggestion would be to go through this process all the way through until the plants die or you feel you have learned everything you can learn. “This bug didn’t just make me feel sick to my stomach because of the destruction it caused, but because it straight kicked my ass!”

The first time

When most growers first get root aphids, they don’t realise that bugs are the core of their problem. Inexperienced growers normally treat for root rot (also known as pythium) by using a disinfectant; this, however, only furthers the problem by exposing even more roots for the root aphids. So, be sure to take your time to look thoroughly at the problem and find the main reason for your problem. By doing this, your small infestation of root aphids will stay that a small infestation. Don’t be a grower that treats for every other problem except for the root aphid until your plants die.

The solution

The solution below can only be used for growers that get root aphids after the fourth week into flowering. Any grower that gets root aphids indoors before the fourth week into flowering should immediately kill their plants and go through our system sterilisation checklist (see checklist, next page).

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

black bugs be gone! The first step The first step to getting rid of root aphids is to reduce the temperature of your environment. By lowering the temperature, you will slow the spread of aphids hatching and will slow the winged aphids down.

“Inexperienced growers normally treat for root rot (also known as pythium) by using a disinfectant; this, however, only furthers the problem by exposing even more roots for the root aphids.”

The second step The second step is using a plant-friendly fogger. Foggers flush out and quickly eradicate insects on contact; however, the sprays will not kill eggs or nymphs, so repeated applications are required. Just be sure to read the label and follow directions carefully, as foggers are harmful to humans too. Foggers should not be used in small, enclosed places, such as closets, cabinets or under counters or tables, and I recommend placing an active fogger 1.8 m or farther from all ignition sources since accidents involving total release foggers have occasionally occurred when homeowners released too much fogging material, which led to a high buildup of flammable vapours. Also, vacate the sprayed area during treatment and thoroughly ventilate upon returning because breathing the spray could be harmful.

The fourth step The fourth step is to cut your fertiliser in half. This is also important because the aphids bite into the fibrous portion of the roots that is responsible for taking up water and nutrients. When the aphids eat this portion of the roots, it reduces your plants ability to take up plant food. Cutting the fertiliser in half reduces the concentration of plant food, which in turn normally slows the onset of wilting because of osmosis. It also helps with plant deficiency like signs of over fertilisation.

The third step The third step is to reduce your light intensity if you have a digital ballast. As aphids bite into your roots, the roots loose the ability to take up water. When you reduce the intensity of the light, you reduce the demand the plant puts on its root system for water uptake, as well as reduce excess stress on the plant; thus you have more time to treat the aphid infestation. 68

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

The fifth step The fifth step is to reduce the temperature of your water reservoir to 18.3ºC. This will help control the spread of other plant diseases because it will reduce the temperature of the water and the rate at which root rot can spread. The sixth step The sixth step is put some petroleum jelly around the base stem of your plant. This is preparation for the next step when aphids try and climb up and get away. The seventh step The seventh step is to completely drown your entire root system with an oil-based soil drench. To put is simply, root aphids are extremely hard to kill and an oil-based soil drench solution is the only things that will do a great job.

System Sterilisation Checklist 1. 2. 3. 4.

Kill your plants Remove all growing media Fog your room before you start sterilising Clean everything: a. Inside and outside hoods b. Lenses and bulbs c. Walls d. Reservoirs and other H2O systems e. Get new irrigation if auto watering f. Fans 5. Apply fogger 6. Shut down room for two to four weeks to insure complete death 7. Start from scratch (that means new motherplants) and do not go back to the person that gave you the aphids—go to a new nursery!

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by Jake Geraldo

Is Checking pH

Levels Really

Necessary?

Is your pH up or down? That is the question, but why is it relevant? Jake Geraldo argues that checking your pH levels is the most important step in the watering and nutrition process… Even if you fill your watering can with high-grade nutrients, it could be going to waste if you’re not checking your pH levels. There are 14 points on the pH scale, with 14 being lye (commonly found in soap) and one being battery acid. That is an extreme difference—and if you think your plants won’t notice, think again. Certain nutrients are able to be usefully absorbed by the plant at different points on the pH scale, but these nutrients will get locked out if levels are too far up or down the scale. Most plants prefer a pH somewhere in the six to 6.5 realm, while extreme-weather desert plants do best with a high pH of around eight. Potatoes need to be kept at a low five. When checking your pH levels, there are three sources you should be looking at. First, the solution itself—after mixing in all of your nutrients, you should always check the pH levels. When mixing in things like kelp or humic acid, you will need a litmus paper

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

test kit or a digital meter because the color-change kits are of little to no use with dark nutrients. The next thing to check is your medium—depending on whether you are gardening in hydro or soil, there are different ways to get a reading. For hydro systems, use a leavein meter. For soil gardening, there are small soil-test kits or a few styles of plugs that can be left in the medium. You can also check the run-off water from your soil. If the pH is different from what it was when you poured the solution in, you can be sure that the pH of your medium is off and you will have to start to recondition your soil by watering in a counter-agent. In soil gardening, you are changing the pH levels over time by watering your plants. Over the course of your grow, your medium can change if you are always watering a little high or low on the pH scale and the soil can actually become harmful to your plants. Also note that liquid fertilisers tend to leave soil more acidic, so be sure to

“When checking your pH levels, there are three sources you should be looking at.”

check pH levels often if they are your primary food sources. In hydroponics, your medium is usually inert—being rock or clay most of the time—but it is important that the nutrient solution is mixed properly and the pH is stable. For example, if the nutrient packaging states that the solution will change over the course of 24 hours,

you need to wait that full time before feeding it to your plant. There are also a few natural ways to adjust your pH by adding different dry amendments directly to the soil. However, amendments need to be added early in the season to make sure they have time to break down in the soil; otherwise, it will be harvest time before your soil is at the proper pH level. Compost or mulch regularly mixed in your soil will also help regulate the pH level. You should look at the pH scale as a guide to help you stop deficiencies from happening—recognising problems and knowing what causes them is a great skill. More importantly, you should know where on the pH scale that missing key

nutrients can be taken up by your plants. That way you can provide the missing nutrient at a pH level that insures it will be absorbed easily by the plant. A foliar spray is one of the most effective ways to quickly fix specific nutrient problems because leaves can transfer nutrients faster than the root system. Maintaining optimal pH levels is a key part of gardening that is easy to ignore because it is a last step; however, if you want to maximise the potential of your crops, it should be regarded as the most important step in the watering process. You have some options when adjusting the pH—you can spend a lot of money and have it dialled in all of the time, or you can do things on the cheap and check your levels manually. Both methods work fine—the important part is that you are checking and checking often. The key to a balanced diet (for your plants) is proper pH—if you are properly dialled in with your pH levels, you cannot have a deficiency!

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

talking shop

AT A GLANCE Company: Somerset Hydroponic Owners: Lee Elswood Locations: Unit 4 Technine Guard Ave., Houndstone Business Park Yeovil, Somerset BA22 8YE Phone: +44 (0) 1935 420720 Email: sales@somhydro.co.uk Website: somhydro.co.uk Motto: “Survival of the Hardest Working!”

While Lee didn’t get the freedom and massive fortune he wanted within the first year of opening Somerset Hydroponics, he has achieved a lot more in the thirteen years since then… A growing family business: Lee Elswood (left) and his nephew, Aaron Elswood (right).

When David Sharland and I (Lee Elswood) opened Somerset Hydroponic’s first store back in 1999, the dream was to escape the normal hum drum 9-to-5 type jobs and to have a zillion pounds in the bank within the first year… It didn’t take long for the reality of owning a business to cut in, laughs Lee. We were both keen novice hydroponic gardeners throughout the late ’80s and into the ’90s, and we both had a passion to learn as much as possible about small scale or domestic hydroponics. At the time, that retail market was in its infancy in the United Kingdom, with retailers few and far between and e-commerce more or less non-existent, so it was pure passion driven for us to source products and information. Sometime in the mid90s, I recognised a need for a hydroponic store that would supply quality products and, more importantly, an honest approach towards giving the information to back up those products. I’ll always remember how, in my early days of gardening, stores would push products onto me without a care as to whether the product was

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

actually something that I needed or wanted. For some stores, it was all about riding the hydroponic gravy train to earn as much as possible, as quickly as possible. A few stores even sold some questionable products. It was tough to actually find someone who had real knowledge of what they were selling or of a growing technique relevant to a particular growing system. Thankfully, in the early ’90s we found a local supplier in the South West that did have the knowledge and experience. After many visits to the supplier, we increased our own knowledge and growing experience to a point where opening a store became viable. We originally sourced funding for the store through a loan and grant from the Princes Trust. When our first store opened, we were buzzing with excitement. Business was slow, but steady, and we used quiet periods to increase our knowledge and experience by visiting any supplier, manufacturer or growing centre that utilised hydroponics. It was hard work for the first couple of years, but all the research and hands-on experiences were invaluable. I was invited back to my old secondary school (where I had failing results in chemistry and biology) to advise the science department on setting up a hydroponic growroom and to impart both chemistry- and biology-related information regarding hydroponic plant growth. Thirteen years later and in our third premises, I am glad to say that the Somerset Hydroponics is still a passion for me and that the excitement is still alive. Unfortunately, David is no longer a partner at the store, but I have gained some great staff: Aaron, Leighton and Pippa, who are always ready to listen and advise on any aspect of indoor gardening. Over the years, Somerset Hydroponics has worked with the Royal Horticultural Society, designed and built hydroponic growrooms for local secondary schools and colleges, advised on hydroponic small-holding projects and co-written articles for many gardening magazines.

At Somerset Hydroponics, our emphasis is on quality, branded products. We sell them at competitive prices to ensure you obtain safe, reliable and proven products that we know will make a difference to your overall success. Sure, you can always find someone willing to sell something cheaper, but will that guy spend good time on the phone or at the counter with you two or three times a week to help you solve an issue or achieve a better result? Does that guy even know what he’s selling or talking about? Many don’t, but at Somerset Hydroponics, we will spend that time and we do know what we’re talking about. We are proud of our continued commitment to offer quality hydroponic and organic products, and quality sales service to gardeners to help them obtain maximum results. We are so happy to have kept many of our original customers and I think that this is happy reflection of how trusted, friendly and reliable we have proven Somerset Hydroponics to be. Our website customers can rely on a speedy service, with most orders being processed and despatched the same day. Both our in-store and website customers can continue to rely on our passion to source and review any new product that could advance their own growing knowledge or increase their success as a hydro or organic gardener.

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

MAX-mART

NEW THE MOST TRUSTED. somerset MQB (sales) 10% OFF ONLINE ORDERS! Use code MYSOM12 at checkout online • Valid until 20/12/12

We offer quality products with friendly experienced advice for you to obtain maximum results from your gardening! Personal in-store service combined with the fastest most reliable online service!

est. 1999

www.somhydro.co.uk

Unit 4 Technine • Houndstone Business Park • Yeovil • Somerset

www.somhydro.co.uk Mon-Fri: 10:00 - 6:30 • Sat: 10:00 - 4:00

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

MAX-mART

FREE

DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTION

TO MAXIMUM YIELD Get the online edition of

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Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

IndustrY’s Latest

fRESH INDUSTRY NEWS

VitaLink Marketing Materials Want to know more about the VitaLink range? Then ask your local retailer for your free leaflets today! These leaflets provide a brief description and the benefits of all of the VitaLink nutrients, additives and growing media products. Currently, there is a general VitaLink leaflet—which includes product information and grow charts to make it simple for you to use the products—and individual growing media leaflets—which help to highlight the advantages of using these particular products and how they should be used. VitaLink Professional Enriched Soil, VitaLink Professional Coir Mix and VitaLink Professional Coir Chips are covered in these individual leaflets. For more information about the products, please visit vitalink.eu or follow VitaLink on Twitter and Facebook.

100% CANNA Nutrients Now you can collect CANNA points when purchasing CANNA nutrients. The more CANNA points you collect, the bigger the prizes. You can collect and redeem your CANNA points for CANNA additives, CANNA beanbags or even for a CANNA bicycle. Find your unique CANNA code on the nutrient bottle and redeem your points on the CANNA website. As a bonus, here’s a free code: enter UkwCAN on the CANNA website (canna-uk.com) and start collecting today!

CANNAlyse CANNA has its own state-ofthe-art research facilities, where we put your product through several levels of controlled studies and tests in order to provide you with the best products. At CANNA, we understand that you expect nothing but the best CANNA products. Therefore, you can now check the quality of all the CANNA TERRA and CANNA COCO substrates. Simply surf to canna-uk.com/cannalyse and enter the batchcode, which you can find on the substrate bags.

Tuvalu

Updated PLANT!T Website The PLANT!T website has recently been updated to include two new hydroponic growing systems: gemini—a one-plant recirculating system—and aeros—an aerated deep-water-culture system available in one-plant, two-plant and four-plant recirculating and module options. In addition, the website has all you need to know about the other products in the PLANT!T collection, which ranges from clay pebbles to vermiculite to Dirt Pots to the Auto Top-Up Kit. Visit plantit-growit.com today to find out more about these fantastic new products and discover their benefits! Also, search PLANT!T on Facebook or @Plantit_Growit on Twitter.

AutoPot are pleased to announce the launch of a revolutionary project in Tuvalu, a group of islands that are among some of the lowest lying regions in the world. Tuvalu is at great risk by current and future rising sea levels. The land has already been flooded and, therefore, is useless for conventional growing methods. We then realised, however, that growing crops hydroponically would provide a solution. AutoPot is asking companies from the hydroponic industry to join forces and expertise in order to set up a commercial greenhouse to supply this island of need with fresh food. Whether you can give a donation, provide nutrient, seeds or equipment, every donation makes a difference. This project could potentially change the people of Tuvalu’s lives forever, but we cannot do it alone. For more information, please visit attollfresh.com, and to become part of this exciting project, please contact mail@autopot.co.uk

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

COMING UP IN January/February 2013

Growing Media Options Our experts help you discover which medium is ideal for you.

Water Worries: Water Quality Issues and How to Deal with Them Dr. Lynette Morgan takes you through everything you need to know about your water supply in order to give your garden its best chance.

Noshing CO2

Plants have no teeth… or do they?

Plus: Hydroponic news, tips and trivia; hot new products; exclusive giveaways; Talking Shop and more!

www.maximumyield.com Maximum Yield UK January/February will be available in January for free at indoor gardening retail stores across the UK and on maximumyield.com Subscriptions are available at maximumyield.com/subscriptions and maximumyield.com/digital-subscription

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

DO YOU KNOW?

Foggers should not be used in small, enclosed places, such as closets, cabinets or under counters or tables.

It is important that the nutrient solution is mixed properly and the pH is stable; so, if the nutrient packaging states that the solution will change over the course of 24 hours, you need to wait that full time before feeding it to your plant.

3. 4.

In tomatoes alone, we have identified over 400 volatile aromatic compounds that contribute to overall flavour experience—and there are potentially many more to be discovered.

While durable hydroponic media does not compost in the traditional way, it can be run through the process alongside organic material to form a pre-amended compost material.

5. 6. 7.

In traditional hydroponic applications, nutrient water is typically discarded and replaced every couple of weeks, whereas with a water-culture system, there is no need to dispose of the water being used during the harvest cycle.

The air around us contains roughly 200 to 300 ppm (or, 0.02 to 0.03%) CO2, but we have learned that you can supercharge your garden by enriching the atmosphere in your growroom to 1,200 to 1,500 ppm (or, 0.12 to 0.15%). Keep in mind, however, that anything above this can be harmful to plants and humans. Fermentation, decomposition, dry ice, CO2 emitters, CO2 generator systems, butane lamps and spending plenty of time with your plants are all ways to input CO2 into your growroom.

Natural and organic amendments—such as worm castings, bat and seabird guanos, kelp or seaweed meals, oyster shell, azomite, crab meal, poultry litter, pyrophyllite clay, bone and fishbone meals— enrich soil and provide complete nutrition in a time-released formula that is fully customisable to the grower’s preference.

Roots have trouble moving water when they are in cold media, thus reducing the amount of nutrients brought to leaf tissues.

Sweetness is measured in brix, and most people can actually taste a difference of just one degree brix.

10. Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors 1st Hydroponics

Aquaculture

Crofters Bio Gardens

21st Century Garden

Aquatech Horticultural Lighting

Discount Hydroponics

Unit 5 K-Line House, West Rd. Ipswich, Suffolk UK IP3 9FG Tel: +44 (0) 1473 279829 www.1st-hydroponics.co.uk Unit # A6., Bounds Green Ind. Es., Ringway London, Greater London UK N11 2UD Tel: +44 (0) 2083 614659 www.21stcenturygarden.co.uk

3 Counties Hydroponics

Unit 52, Rober t Court Ind.E s. Britten Rd. Reading, Berkshire UK RG2 0AU Tel: +44 (0) 1189 874758

3 Counties Hydroponics

Unit #3, Pkwy One, Pkwy Dr. Sheffield, South Yorkshire UK S9 4WU Tel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk Unit 3F, Spa Fields Ind. Es. New St. Slaithwait Huddersfield, West Yorkshire UK HD7 5BB Tel: +44 (0) 1484 842632

Ashton Hydroponics Ltd.

Unit 3 Park Parade Ind. Es. Welbeck St. S. Ashton-Under-Lyna, Manchester UK O4L 67PP Tel: +44 (0) 1613 391673 www.ashton-hydroponics.co.uk

____________________________

The Lodge, 113 Invicta Rd. Dartford, Kent UK DA2 6AY Tel: +44 (0) 1322 273444

3 Counties Hydroponics Unit 13., Chiltern Bus. Ctr. Cowley, Oxford UK OX4 6NG Tel: +44 (0) 1865 771747

3 Counties Hydroponics

Unit #11, Olds Close, Olds Approach Watford, Herts UK WD18 8RU Tel: +44 (0) 1923 774486

3 Countries Hydroponics

Unit 12., Yew Tree Ind. Es., Mill Hall Aylesford, Maidstone UK ME20 7ET Tel: +44 (0) 1622 790456

3 Countries Hydroponics

Unit 10., Woodley Yard Cherstsey Bridge Rd. Chertsey, Surrey UK KT16 8LF Tel: +44 (0) 1932 562174

3 Countries Hydroponics Unit 9., Galley Hill Yard Waltham Abbey, Essex UK EN9 2AG Tel: +44 (0) 1992 652301

A-Zee Hydro Ltd.

Unit C4, Suttons Bus. Ctr.New Rd. Rainham, Essex UK RM13 8DE Tel: +44 (0) 1708 551199

____________________________

Addloes Lighting & Hydroponics 16-A Maple Rd., Winton Bourmouth, Dorset UK BH9 2PN Tel: +44 (0) 1202 524525; www.addloes.com

Allbright

#6., The Rise Edgware, Middlesex UK HA8 8NR Tel: +44 (0) 2089 582426

Amazing Garden Supplies (Bridgend)

Unit 6 Eastlake Close., Litchard Ind. Es. Bridgend, South Wales UK CF31 2AL Tel: +44 (0) 1656 663030

Amazing Garden Supplies (Bristol)

Unit 3 Moravian Bus.Pk., Moravian Rd. Kingswood, Bristol UK BS15 8NF Tel: +44 (0) 1179 605566

Anglia Hydroponics

Aztec Garden Unit 1A Roughan Ind.Es. Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk UK IP30 9ND Tel: +44 (0) 1359 271876 www.aztec-garden.co.uk _____________________________ Basement Lighting Ltd.

Unit #3, The Old Maltings, George St. Newark, Nottinghamshire UK NG24 1LU Tel: +44 (0) 1636 650189

Big Stone River Garden Center

Unit 11 Whitehall Properties Towngate Wyke, Bradford UK BD12 9JQ Tel: +44 (0) 1274 694444

Greenfinger-Hydroponics Unit 59 T Marchant Estate, 42-72 Verney Road, South Bermondsey, SE16 3DH +44 (0) 207 394 0629 ____________________________

Esoteric Hydroponics Ltd. 8 Martyr Rd. Guildford, Surrey UK GU1 4LF Tel: +44 (0) 1483 596484 www.1-hydroponics.co.uk

Bradford Hydroponics

9597 Manningham Ln. Bradford, West Yorkshire UK BD1 3BN Tel: +44 (0) 1274 729205 www.bradfordhydroponics.co.uk Unit #E, The Old Brewery, Durnford St. Ashton Gate, Bristol UK BS3 2AW Tel: +44 (0) 1179 666996 www.hydroponics-online.co.uk

Bright Green UK Ltd.

42-44 Princess Rd., Hull, Yorkshire UK HU5 2RD Tel: +44 (0) 1482 341925 www.brightgreen-uk.co.uk

____________________________

Great Stuff Hydroponics

24 Collingwood Ct. Riverside Park Ind. Es. Middlesbrough, UK TS2 1RP Tel: +44 (0) 1642 224544 www.hydroponics-hydroponics.com

Green Daze Hydroponics Ashington

Unit 9 Waterside Ct. North Seaton Bus. Pk. Ashington, Northumberland UK NE63 0YG Tel: +44 (0) 1670 818003 www.greendazehydroponics.co.uk

Green Daze Hydroponics Gateshead

10 Wellington St. Gateshead, UK NE8 2AJ Tel: +44 (0) 1914 789107 www.greendazehydroponics.co.uk

____________________________

Brit Crops Ltd Unit 9 OJ’s Ind. Pk.Claybank Rd. Portsmouth, Hampshire UK PO3 5SX Tel: +44 (0) 2392 669111 www.britcropshydroponics.co.uk ____________________________ Britlite Hydroponics

Unit 11 Roman Ind. Es. Croydon, UK CRO 2DT Tel: +44 (0) 2086 834424 www.britelite-hydroponics-uk.com

Bub’s allotment

Unit 33 Portsmouth Enterprise Ctr. Quartermain Rd. Portsmouth, UK PO3 5QT Tel: +44 (0) 2392 667887

Clever Green

35 Ketley Bus. Pk. Waterloo Rd., Telford, Shropshire UK TF1 5JD Tel: +44 (0) 1952 257200 www.clevergreen.co.uk

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

GREEN FEVER 18 Hartsill Rd., Stoke-on-Trent Staffordshire, UK ST4 7QU Tel: +44 (0) 1782 414448 www.green-fever.co.uk ____________________________ Green Finger

190 Hessle Rd. Hull, East Yorkshire UK HU3 3BE Tel: +44 (0) 1482 222425

Unit F Totterdown Bridge Est, Albert Rd. St. Philips, Bristol, Somerset UK BS2 0XH Tel: +44 (0) 1179 713000 www. greenshorticulture.co.uk

____________________________ Greenfinger-Hydroponics Unit 38 Silicon Business Centre,28 Wadsworth Road, Perivale,UB6 7JZ Tel: +44 (0) 208 998 2034 ____________________________

Greenstream Hydroponics 12-14 Vivian Rd. Birmingham, Harbourne UK B17 0DS Tel: +44 (0) 1214 262675 www.greenstream.co.uk ___________________________ Greenthings Hydroponics

Green Spirit Hydroponics Ltd Unit 6, Rockingham Business Park, Rockingham Row, Birdwell, UK S705TW Tel: +44 (0) 1226 399837 www.greenspirit-hydroponics.com

____________________________

Unit 1, Adjewhella Chapel Barriper Camborne, Cornwall UK TR14 0QW Tel: +44 (0) 1209 611870 www.greenthings.co.uk

Grotec Hydroponics

393 Manchester Rd., Rochdale, Greater Manchester UK OL11 3PG Tel: +44 (0) 1706 750293 www.grotec.co.uk

Grotech Ltd.

Great Stuff Hydroponics

30 C Ellemeres Ct. Leechmere Ind. Es. Sunderland, UK SR2 9UA Tel: +44 (0) 1914 474098 www.hyroponics-hydroponics.com

Greens Horticulture

Unit 1G. Gregory Rd. Mildenhall, Bury St. Edmonds, Suffolk UK IP28 7PP Tel: +44 (0) 1638 715350 www.greensea-hydroponics.co.uk

Garden Secrets UK Ltd.

Back off 11a main street Leeds, UK lS25 1DS www.garforthhydroponics.co.uk

Unit 61 Riverside III, Sir Thomas Longley Road, MEdway City Estate Rochester, KENT ME2 4BH Tel: 01634 716764 www.thegreenroomvip.co.uk

Greensea Hydroponics

Enhanced Urban Gardening

152 London Rd. Workingham, Berkshire UK RG40 1SU Tel: +44 (0) 1189 890510 www.enhancedurbangardening.co.uk

Greenleaf Systems

Unit 26, Millers Bridge Ind. Es., Seymour, Bootle, Liverpool UK L20 1EE Tel: +44 (0) 1519 331113 www.greenleafsystemsmerseyside.co.uk

The Green Room (Indoor Gardens)Ltd

44 Auster Rd. Clifton Moor, York UK YO30 4XA Tel: +44 (0) 1904 479979 www.elementshydroponics.com

Garforth Hydroponics

Unit 3, Borders Bus Pk. Longtown Carlisle, Cumbria UK CA6 5TD Tel: +44 (0) 1228 792587 www.bloomingbordersltd.co.uk

Chrissie’s Garden

Eighteen Twelve Ltd.

Blooming Borders

Aquaculture

Unit 3, Asher Ln. Bus. Pk. Asher Ln. Ripley, Derbyshire UK DE5 3RE Tel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk

47 Upperton Rd. Eastbourne, East Sussex UK BN21 1LT Tel: +44 (0) 1323 732241

Unit 3 Hollybush Est. Whitchurch, Cardiff UK CF14 7DS Tel: +44 (0) 2920 651792 www.gardensecretsuk.co.uk

The Rural Granary Business Centre Unit 4 North Street Hellingly, East Sussex UK BN27 4DU Tel: +44 (0) 7528 098103 Web: www.bubsallotment.co.uk

Aquaculture

Eastbourne Hydroponics

Unit #1 East Gate Grimsby, Lincolnshire UK DN3 29BA Tel: +44 (0) 1472 241114

62 A Straight Rd. Boxted, Colchester, Essex UK C04 5RD Tel: +44 (0) 1206 272677 www.angliahydroponics.co.uk Unit 79 (A) Carlton Ind. Es. Barnsley, South Yorkshire UK S71 3HW Tel: +44 (0) 8456 445544 www.aquaculture-hydroponics.co.uk

1 Bus. Bldg. Waltergrave St. Hastings, East Sussex UK TN34 1SJ Tel: +44 (0) 1424 428186

____________________________

Elements Hydroponic Center

Branching Out

Acorn Horticulture 65 Deep Ln. Sheffield, UK S5 0DU Tel: +44 (0) 1142 458581 www.acornhorticulture.co.uk ____________________________

Unit 2, Bloomsgrove Ind. Es.Ilkeston Rd. Radford, Nottingham UK NG7 3JB Tel: +44 (0) 1159 782345 www.croftersbiogardens.com

Green Spirit Hydroponics Ltd 8-10 Stanley St. Sheffield, UK S3 8HJ Tel: +44 (0) 1142 753353 www.greenspirit-hydroponics.com

____________________________ Green Stream 12-14 Vivian Rd. Harbourne, Birmingham UK B17 ODS Tel: +44 (0) 1214 262675 www.greenstream.co.uk

Green World 1618 Market Vaults Scarborough, UK YO11 1EU Tel: +44 (0) 1723 370900 www.greenworld.ne.uk

Greener than Life 575- 577 Holderness Rd. Hull, East Riding UK HU8 9AA Tel: +44 (0) 1482 374201

Greengrass Indoor Gardening Supplies Unit 5A Alexander Ct. Hazleford Way Newstead, Nottingham UK NG15 0DQ Tel: +44 (0) 1623 755055

____________________________

___________________________

Unit 21. Saddlers Hall Farm, London Rd. Basildon, Essex UK SS13 2HD Tel: +44 (0) 1268 799828 www.grotechonline.co.uk

Grow 4 Good Ltd.

22i Beehive Workshops Durham, UK DH1 2X1 Tel: +44 (0) 1913 757667 www.grow4good.net

Grow Den

2 Horthfield Rd., Rainham, Kent UK ME8 8 BJ Tel: +44 (0) 1634 239333

Grow Green Ltd.

15-17 Green Ln., Castle Bromwich Birmingham, UK B36 0AY Tel: +44 (0) 121 241 6445

Grow Green Trade Ltd.

Unit 4 Castle Trading Est. La Grange, Tamwarth, UK B79 7X0 Tel: +44 (0) 1827 62766

Grow Shaw

96-98 Shaw Heath Rd., Stockport, Manchester UK SK3 8BP Tel: +44 (0) 8452 725266 www.growshaw.co.uk

Grow Zone UK

Unit 7, West Court, Crantock Street Newquay, Cornwall UK TR7 1JL Tel: +44 (0) 1637 806115 www.growzoneuk.com

GroSupplies

Sovereign House, Ellen Terrace Sulgrave, Washington, Tyne & Wear NE37 3AS Tel: +44 (0) 1914 153345 www.grosupplies.com

GroWell Coleshill

Greenfinger-Hydroponics Unit 3 Park Works, 16-18 Park Road, Kingston-Upon-Thames, Surrey, KT2 6BX Tel: +44(0) 208 546 3444 ____________________________

Greenhouse Effect Unit 2 Eagle Farm Cranfield Rd. Wavendon, Milton Keynes UK MK17 8AU Tel: +44 (0) 1908 585283 ____________________________

Units 8-11 Coleshill Trade Park, Station Rd. Coleshill, Birmingham UK B46 1HT Tel: +44 (0) 8453 442333 www.growell.co.uk

GroWell Dudley

Unit 52 Enterprise Trad. Es. off Pedmore Rd. Brierly Hill, Dudley UK DY5 1TX Tel: +44 (0) 8453 456991 www.growell.co.uk

GroWell Fullham

Hydro Hobby

Makes Sense Grow Shop

Rootzone Hydroponics Ltd.

The Hydroponic Warehouse

GroWell Hockley Heath

Hydro Station Ltd.

Manchester Hydroponics

Sale Hydro

The Inner Garden Ltd.

1 Royal Parade 247 Dawes Rd. Fullham, London UK SW6 7RE Tel: +44 (0) 8453 445174 www.growell.co.uk Ivy House Farm, Grange Rd. Hockley Heath, Solihull UK B94 6PR Tel: +44 (0) 8433 571640 www.growell.co.uk

GroWell Mail Order Division PO Box 3255 Warwick, UK CV34 5GH Tel: +44 (0) 8453 455177 www.growell.co.uk

GrowinGreen

Unit 6, Queens drive industrial estate, Newhall, Swadlincote, DE11 0EG 01253 675722 www.growingreen.co.ukGrowing Life #6 Newington Green Rd. London, UK N1 4RX Tel: +44 (0) 2070 339541 www.growing-life.com

Groworks

94 Upper Wickham Lane Welling, Kent, UK DA16 3HQ Tel: +44 (0) 2088 545160Groworks Unit F16 Northfleet Industrial Estate Lower Road, Gravesend, UK DA11 9SW Tel: +44 (0) 1273 624327

Groworks

Unit 4 Belltower Industrial Estate Roedean Road, Brighton, UK BN2 5RU Tel: +44 (0) 1322 838131 Happy Daze Hydroponics Unit 4 Craven Court Hedon Rd. Hull, UK HU9 1NQ Tel: +44 (0) 1482 224299 www.happydazehull.com

Happy Gardens Ltd.

Unit 4 Brook Farm, Stoneleigh Rd. Gibbet Hill, Coventry UK CV4 7AB Tel: +44 (0) 2476 414161 www.hydrohobby.co.uk Unit 10 Hillfoot Ind. Es. Hoyland Rd. Sheffield, South Yorkshire UK S38AB Tel: +44 (0) 1142 491636 www.hydrostationltd.co.uk

Hydrodragon Ltd.

113-115 Alfred St. Roath Cardiff, South Glamorgan UK CF24 4UA Tel: +44 (0) 2920 490333 www.hydrodragon.co.ukHydroglo Ltd. The Top Store South Rd., Towerhamlets Dover, Kent UK CT17 OAH Tel: +44 (0) 1304 203199 Web: www.hydroglowltd.co.uk

Hydrogrow Systems Ltd.

Unit 7, Acton Bus. Pk., Fields Farm Rd. Longeaton, Nottingham UK NG10 3FZ Tel: +44 (0) 1159 730007 Web: www.hydrogrowsystems.co.uk

Hydrolite UK Ltd.

215 Denman St., Radford, Nottingham UK NG7 3PS Tel: +44 (0) 1159 785556 www.hydrolite.co.uk Hydroponic Corporation Unit 20, Deeside Ind. Es., Zone 1 Deeside, Flintshire UK SH5 2LR Tel: +44 (0) 1244 289699 www.t-h-c.biz

Hydroponica Ltd.

130 Doncaster Rd. Wakefield, Yorkshire UK WF1 5JF Tel: +44 (0) 1924 362888 Web: www.hydroponica.biz

Hydroponics.com

Unit 9, Kelham Bank Ind Es., Kelham St. Doncaster, South Yorkshire UK DN1 3RE Tel: +44 (0) 1302 761386

Unit 24, Port Talbot Business Units Addison Road Port Talbot, UK SA12 6HZ Tel: +44 (0) 1639 888891 www.hydroponicsdotcom.com

HFM Pyrotechnics Ltd.

Hydropower

165A Londford Rd. Cannock, Staffordshire UK WS11 OLD Tel: +44 (0) 1543 500800 www.hfmgroup.com

Hi9THC

Unit 3. Rope Walk,. Coach Rd. Whitehaven, Cumbria UK CA28 7TE Tel: +44 (0) 7821 914646 www.hi9thc.co.uk

High Street Hydroponics

Unit 56 Hebden R., Berkley Ind.Es., Scunthorpe, North Lincolnshire DN15 8DT Tel: +44(0) 1724 857191

Holland Hydroponics

17 Rondin Rd., Ardwick, Greater Manchester UK M12 6BF Tel: +44 (0) 8458 720570 www.hydroponics.co.uk

Holland Hydroponics Express Unit 4 Leeds Rd. Trade Park. Leeds Rd., Huddersfield, UK HD2 1YR

Holland Hydroponics

Handbridge Mill 5 Parliament St. Burnley, Lancashire UK BB11 5HG Tel: +44 (0) 8458 720590 www..hydroponics.co.uk

Home Grower Ltd.

Unit 8, Oak Court, Crystal Dr. Smethwick, West Midlands UK B66 1QG Tel: +44 (0) 1215 411446 www.thehomegrower.com Huyton Hydroponics & Gardening Supplies Huyton, Mersey Side UK Tel: +44 (0) 1514 820101 www.huytonhydro.co.uk

Hygrow II Hydroponics

Units 3+4, 30 Oslo Road Suttonfields Industrial Estate HULL HU7 0YN, East Yorkshire Tel: +44 (0) 1482 833455 www.hygrow.co.uk

Hydro 1 Stop

Unit 35 Deykin Pk. Ind. Es. Deykin Ave. Aston, Birmingham UK B67HN Tel: +44 (0) 1213 280876 www.hydro1stop.co.uk

300 Holton Rd. Barry, Vale Of Glamorgan UK CF63 4HW Tel: +44 (0) 7725 551479 www.hydro-power.biz

Hydrosense

47 Scarrots Ln. Newport, Isle of Wright UK PO30 1JD Tel: +44 (0) 1983 522240 Hylton Hydro

Rockington Nursery Blackness Rd. Sunderland, UK SR4 7XT Tel: 01 9155 18453

Hytec Horticulture

Old Wales Wood Colliery, Mansfield Rd. Sheffield, UK S26 5PQ Tel: +44 (0) 1909 772872 www.hytechorticulture.co.uk

Junction 10 Hydro

Unit 55, Owen Road Industrial Estate Willenhall, WV13 2PX Tel: 0121 5686850 www.j10hydro.com

Kernow Grow Ltd.

11 D. Kernick Ind. Es. Penryn, Cornwall UK TR10 9EP Tel: +44 (0) 3300 104420 www.kernowgrow.co.uk

King Of Green

18-24 Saint Helens Rd., Westcliff on Sea Westcliff, Essex UK SS0 7LB Tel: +44 (0) 1702 347536 www.kingofgreen.com

Kitbag Hydroponic Warehouse 22 Pool Bank St. Nunaeton, Warwickshire UK CV11 5DB Tel: +44 (0) 2476 641033 ebaystores.co.uk/kitbagshop

Lancaster Hydroponics

Unit 18 Lansil Ind.Es., Caton Rd. Lancaster, Lancashire UK LA1 3PQ Tel: +44 (0) 7961 279279 www.lancasterhydroponics.co.uk

Lothian Hydroponics

172 S Mid St. Bathgate, West Lothian UK EH48 1DY Tel: +44 (0) 1506 650501

The Annex Rear of #20, Barden Rd. Tonbridge, Kent UK TN9 1TX Tel: +44 (0) 1732 507201 www.makessencesrowshop.co.uk Unit 1A, Reliance St. Newton Heath, Manchester UK M40 3AG Tel: +44 (0) 1616 887333 www.manchesterhydroponics.co.uk manchesterhydroponics@yahoo.co.uk

Matilda’s Planet

1 Green Pl. Kenfig, South Wales UK Tel: +44 (0) 7895 567843 dale.hudd@grg.com

Unit 2 & 3.,The Green Bus.Ctr.,The Causeway Staines, Middlesex UK TW18 3AL +44 (0) 1784 490370 www.hydrowebshop.com 71 Dane Rd., Sale Manchester, Lancashire UK M33 7BP Tel: +44 (0) 1619 739899 Email: care@salehydroponics.co.uk

Sea of Green UK

25 Eastcott Hill Swindon, Wiltshire UK SN1 3JG Tel: +44 (0) 1793 617046 www.seaofgreen.co.uk

____________________________

Mellow Yellow Hydro Ltd.

Unit B1A Towngate Works., Dark Ln. Mawdesley, Lancashire UK L40 2QU Tel: +44 (0) 1704 822609 www.mellowyellowhydro.co.uk

Midnight Garden

6 Howlbeck Rd., Guisborough, UK TS14 6LE Tel: +44 (0) 79333 449661

Mile End Hydroponics

265 Wick Rd. London, UK E9 5DG Tel: +44 (0) 2085 330497 www.mile-end-hydroponic.co.uk

Mousehold Garden Center 63 Mousehold Ln. Norwich, Norfolk UK NR7 8HP Tel: +44 (0) 1603 413272

Mr. Beam Hydro

Rose Grove Selby Rd. Askern, Doncaster UK DN6 0ES Tel: +44 (0) 1302 708297 www.mr-beam-hydro.com

New Age Hydroponics

Unit 1 Albert Pl., Albert Mill Lower Darwen, Lancashire UK BB3 OQE Tel: +44 (0) 1254 661177

New Leaf Hydroponics

1 Horsewater Wynd, Hawkhill, Dundee UK DD1 5DU Tel: +44 (0) 1382 202556 www.newleafhydroponics.co.uk

Norfolk Lights & Hydroponics Centre Ltd. Unit 2 Guardian Rd., Ind. Es. Norwich, Norfolk UK NR5 8PF Tel: +44 (0) 1603 666199 www.norfolklights.com

North Devon Hydroponics Unit 4 , Abbey Rd.

Barnstaple, Devon UK EX31 1JU Tel: +44 (0) 1271 314999 www.northdevonhydroponics.co.uk

NuGreen Hydroponics

Unit 4 Stirchley Trad. Es., Hazelwell Rd. Stirchley, Birmingham UK B3O 2PF Tel: +44 (0) 1216 855900 www.nugreenhydroponics.co.uk

One Stop Grow Shop

Unit 8, Fenton Ind. Es., Dewsbury Rd. Fenton, Stroke-On-Trent UK ST4 2TE Tel: +44 (0) 1782 212000 www.onestopgrowshop.co.uk

Planet Hydro

Unit 11 NorthBridge Works., Storey St. Leicester, Leics UK LE3 5GR Tel: +44 (0) 1162 510800

Plant Life

Unit 11, Riverside Wy., Ravensthorpe Ind Es. Dewsbury, West Yorkshire UK WF13 3LG Tel: +44 (0) 1924 492298 www.plantlife.me.uk

Plantasia

Brill View Farm Ludgershall Rd. Bicester, Oxfordshire UK OX25 1PU Tel: +44 (0) 8707 555225 www.plantasia.co.uk

Progrow

5 Westwood Units, Alphinbrook Rd. Marsh Barton Trad. Es. Exeter, Devon UK EX2 8QF Tel: +44 (0) 1392 276998 www.progrow.co.uk

Somerset Hydro

Unit4 Technine, Guard Avenue Houndstone Business Park Yeovil Somerset BA22 8YE Tel: +44 (0) 1935 420720 www.somhydro.co.uk

____________________________ South Coast Hydroponics

Unit 8., Enterprise Ind. Es., Enterprise Rd. Horndean, Portsmouth UK PO8 0BB Tel: +44 (0) 2392 598853 www.southcoasthydroponics.com

Unit 15., Bay Airport Ind.Es., Kingston Pk. Newcastle, Tyne and Wear UK NE3 2EF Tel: +44 (0) 1912 862045 www.thehydroponicwharhouse.co.uk Unit 14., Cornish Wy., West, Galmington Taunton, Somerset UK TA1 5NA Tel: +44 (0) 1823 274791

The Persy Grow Shop

4 Kings Mews. Brighton, East Sussex UK BN3 2PA Tel: +44 (0) 1273 777335 www.persygrowbox.co.uk

The Plant Pot

69 Ratcliffe Gate, Mansfield, Nottinghamshire UK NG18 2JB Tel: +44 (0) 1623 422711 www.theplantpot.co.uk

Toddington Hydroponics Center Griffin Farm Unit 9., Toddington Dunstable, Bedford UK LU5 6BT Tel: +44 (0) 1582 664765 www.toddingtonhydroponics.co.uk

Triangle Hydroponics

31B., The Triangle , Bournemouth, Dorset UK BH2 5SE Tel: +44 (0) 1202 556661 www.trianglehydroponics.co.uk

Southern Hydro Centre

U Grow London

9 Mamesbury Rd. Southampton, Hampshire UK S01 SFT Tel: +44 (0) 2380 704080 www.southernhydro.co.uk

Studio12, Imperial Studios, 3-11 Imperial Rd. London, UK SW6 2AG, Tel: +44 (0) 2073 843388 www.ugrow.com

Southern Lights #1 25 Fratton Rd. Hampshire, UK PO1 5AB Tel: +44 (0) 1705 811822;

Warehouse Hydroponics

Southern Lights #2

19A Grace Hill. Folkestone, Kent UK CT20 1HQ Tel: +44 (0) 1303 210003; Tel: +44 (0) 1303 252561

St Albans Hydroponics

Bank Quay Trading Est., Slutchers Ln. Warrington, Cheshire UK WA1 1PJ Tel: +44 (0) 1925 637837 www.warehousehydroponics.co.uk

ireland Northern Lights

Unit 5 London Rd., Bus.Pk., 222 London Rd. St Albans, UK AL1 1PN Tel: +44 (0) 1727 848595 www.stalbanshydroponics.moonfruit.com

9 Dunluce St. Larne Antrim, Northern Ireland BT40 1JG Tel: +44 (0) 2828 278485 www.northernlightsni.com

Starlite Systems

The Grow Shop

226 Albert Rd., Plymouth, Devon UK PL2 1AW Tel: +44 (0) 1752 551233 www.starlitesystems.co.uk

Sub-Garden Supplies

45-J Leyton Industrial Village, Argall Ave., Leyton, London UK E10 7QP Tel: +44 (0) 2085 399563

Sunrise Hydroponics

127 Newcastle St., Burslem. Stoke on Trent, Staffshire UK ST6 3QJ Tel: +44 (0) 1782 813814 www.sunrisehydro.co.uk

The Green Machine Ltd.

Unit 1A., Felin Puleston Ind.Es., Ruabon Rd. Wrexham, UK L13 7RF Tel: +44 (0) 1978 265090 www.thegreenmachineonline.com

The Grow Den

2 Hothfield Rd. Rainham, Kent UK ME8 8BJ Tel: +44 (0) 1634 239333

The Grow Den Ltd.

Unit 13., Eaves Ct., Eurolink Com.Pk., Bohan Dr. Sittingbourne, Kent UK ME10 3RY Tel: +44 (0) 1795 426264

The Head Gardener

Unit 11, Barton Bus. Pk. Eccles, Manchester UK M3O OQR Tel: +44 (0) 1617 079860 www.theheadgardner.net

The Home Grower

Unit 8., Oak Ct. Odbury, West Midlands UK B66 1QG Tel: +44 (0) 1215 411446 www.thehomegrower.com

14 Brews Hill , Nauan, Co. M Fath Ireland OLI Tel: +44 (0) 1772 204455 www.thc.ie

scotland Progrow Scotland

Unit 6., Nasmyth Square Houston Ind.Es. Livingston, West Lothian Scotland EH5 45GG Tel: +44 (0) 1506 430830 www.progrowscotland.co.uk

Abergreen Horticulture Ltd

Arch 8 Palmerston Rd. Aberdeen, Granpian Scotland AB11 5RE Tel: +44 (0) 1224 574737 www.abergreen.co.uk

Kingdom Hydroponics

Unit #12 Carbery Pl., Mitchelson Ind. Es. Kirkcaldy, Fife Scotland KY1 3NE Tel: +44 (0) 1592 655611

Hydra Hydroponics

41 Tower St. Edinburgh, Scotland EH6 7BN Tel: +44 (0) 1315 611332 www.hydraonline.co.uk Glasgrow 15 Parnie St. Glasgow, Scotland G15RJ Tel: +44 (0) 1415 527522 www.glasgrowhydroponics.co.uk EZ Grow Perth 77 Scott St. Perth, Scotland PH2 8JR Tel: +44(0) 7521 597308

Maximum Yield UK | November/December 2012

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