Höhenluft Winter 2010/11

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The Mayrhofen/Hippach Resort Holiday Magazine 2011 / € 5,–

Mountain Heroes This edition of Höhenluft presents gentle giants, daring pioneers and even turns some pretty sharp corners. www.mayrhofen.at


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Editorial

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The panoramic picture that Paul Sürth took during HÖHENLUFT research work on his job as a natural history photographer.

Pictures: Paul Sürth, Mayrhofen

H Both summer and winter in action for HÖHENLUFT: The editors during Red Bull filming and on the mountain with Paul Sürth.

igh spirits and a joy of life are some of the characteristic traits of the people of Mayrhofen. – A sentence that was originally written in 1876. Alpinist, Ferdinand Löwl, had travelled to the Zillertal Valley to spend a whole summer getting to know the mountains of the Zillertal Main Ridge. He was so impressed by his experiences in the stunning natural surroundings and the local people, that he returned the following summer. He wrote a book about his adventures and encounters, “Aus dem Zillerthaler Hochgebirge – From the High Mountains of Zillertal“ which was published in 1878 and was very well received by his readers. Dear Readers. We too would like to give you an insight into the Mayrhofen of today with this edition of HÖHENLUFT. Our editors met up with Ernst Spiess to reminisce about the beginnings of winter tourism in the village, joined top climbers Kilian Fischhuber and Gerhard Hörhager to document the first ascent of the Dolby Surround Route in Ginzling and experienced the work of natural history photographer, Paul Sürth, at first hand in the mountains. The resulting panoramic picture can be seen above on this page. We hope our stories on authentic mountain life and the infectious high spirits of the Mayrhofen folk make just as an impression on you, as they did Ferdinand Löwl back then!

Andreas Lackner Managing Director Mayrhofen/Hippach Tourist Board

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Content 12 Pleasure cycl ists

16 Performan

ce assessor

ro 08 He

08 Daring pioneers Steinklauber Joseler, is responsible for many first ascents of the Zillertal Main Ridge.

12 80 women in bike paradise A diary of the first Women’s Bike Camp in Mayrhofen.

16 In good shape? Those who have a specific sporting goal in mind should visit a performance diagnostician.

18 Bull without horns m

40 Touris

Artist, Erich Geisler, walks in and out of gilded cages and loves jumping in at the deep end.

pioneer

20 Joy starts with M On a car and motorbike tour through Zillertal. In the luggage: All kinds of pleasure.

24 Well sheltered Mayrhofen Mountain guide, Stefan Wierer, on what represents a real mountain hut experience.

28 Green power for white gold Farmer, Fritz Steiner, knows why hay milk is the purest form of milk.

56 Fr ee-Sk

ier

32

con

ng i

bi Clim

45 Young gun

4

ering 32 Bould ampion World Ch

48 Natur al history photogra pher


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art 18 Marquetry

24 Mountain

20 Bo

guide

28 Hay

n viv

ant

30 Precious world of herbs

armer

54 Springtime ski fun

Mayrhofen herbal witch on the hidden powers of local herbs.

Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com, ASP Red Bull, Paul Sürth, Tommy Bause, Ginzling Archiv

milk f

32 In their element

Get out of those thick jackets and into pure ski pleasure. Don’t forget your sunglasses!

56 Respectful young gun

Kilian Fischhuber climbs for the Red Bull TV Documentary “Elements“ in Ginzling.

40 Always looking forward

Free-ski pro, Roman Rohrmoser speaking on word rap in HÖHENLUFT.

58 Tradition lives on

Mayrhofen winter tourism pioneers, Riki and Ernst Spiess.

45 With iron discipline

Carol singers, people in masquerade spreading New Year wishes, “Grass bell singers“.

30 Herba

l expert

62 Freedom on Mount Ahorn

Ben Reid wants to be the best English ski racer of all time.

46 Giant playground

Austria’s largest cable car has another attraction.

64 Brilliant rock crystal

The VANS Penken Park presents itself as hub of the free-style scene.

In the middle of Mayrhofen, the Europahaus is enjoying a whole new look.

03 Editorial 66 Imprint 66 Then / Today

48 The torture of passion Paul Sürth has been a natural history photographer for over 30 years in Zillertal.

52 Photo fun on the Harakiri Benjamin Burnett adjusts his sights on the 78 degree incline, then fires.

64 Eur opaha

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58 Music

ian

52 Picture hunter

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62 Freedom architect

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Fotos: Mayrhofen

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A tough and shrewd man – the Steinklauber (stone gatherer) Joseler from Ginzling-Dornauberg was the most talented mountain guide of his time, who lived from trading minerals and refused to be shoe horned into an organisation.

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Daring Pioneers The Zillertal main ridge long eluded being conquered by mountain climbers. It was not until the middle of the 19th century and the introduction of mountain guides that interest in climbing gained impetus. Among the men that mastered one of the numerous first ascents was Steinklaube Joseler from Ginzling.

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t was in the year of 1876 that young Ferdinand Löwl travelled to Mayrhofen to learn about the local mountains. This enthusiastic alpinist, who later became Professor of Geography at Czernowitz University, was a member of the Prague Section of the German and Austrian Alpine Association (DuOeAV), and spent two consecutive summers in the Zillertal Valley. During this time he wrote his book “Aus dem Zillerthaler Hochgebirge – From the High Mountains of Zillertal“. A volume full of vivid descriptions of the local landscapes and its’ inhabitants which makes entertaining reading even today, despite its’ unusual phraseology. Löwl gave an insight into valley life in the late 19th century and the resulting interest in the Zillertal Valley gave tourism, in particular, a major boost.

Pictures: Chronik Ginzling

Gentian root and pine wood One section describes some of the inhabitants of Ginzling-Dornauberg. A village that could only offer a very modest lifestyle because of its’ secluded location and was only inhabited all year round as of the beginning of the 19th century. Ferdinand Löwl described the people of Dornauberg as “the real high alpine dwellers“and the valley in which they lived as “a strict mother and teacher“. Löwl knew about the harsh climate that only allowed scant cultivation of corn fields and crops, stating that they were: “excellent Alps, but partially covered with rock debris“. For this reason, sinking numbers of cattle were able to graze and yields were insufficient to meet the vital needs of the Dornauberg folk. However, the inhabitants of Ginzling-Dornauberg were resourceful people and, according to Löwl‘s observations, busied themselves with additional sideline activities. According to the book, some Dornauberg residents searched for rare minerals in the mountains, others scavenged in the high alpine terrain for gentian roots to brew the popular Enzeler (gentian schnapps), while some cre-

ated bowls from pine wood to supplement their income. The constant struggle with the harsh alpine environment turned the people of Dornauberg into a serious, reserved and reticent folk.

“ Stone finding requires great skill and experience in mountain climbing.“ Löwl continues his description and writes: “The Dornaubergers have a terse, laconic manner of conversation. Their speech often only consists of yes, yes, no, no – and even that is often too much for them.“

The best of his time One of the people that Löwl was certainly referring to in his description above was Georg Samer, otherwise known as Steinklauber (Stone Gatherer) Joseler (1828 – 1912). Having grown up in very modest circumstances in Ginzling, Joseler was a herd boy in the Floite Valley and spent his time collecting beautiful stones. The Zillertal Main Ridge, his homeland, is part of the “Geological Tauern Window“, one of the richest areas of minerals in the eastern Alps. It is rumoured that Steinklauber Joseler’s trouser pockets were always full of stones. A guest once saw an amethyst amongst his finds and immediately purchased this precious stone. Joseler soon realised that far more money could be made from his discoveries than herding cattle and ambitiously concentrated on this new work. Löwl writes: “Stone finding requires great skill and experience in mountain climbing, which is why you meet excellent, often daring climbers in Dornauberg.“ “Steinklauber Joseler can, without exaggeration, be called the best of his time“, says Gudrun Steger. A geographer and long standing director of the High Mountain Park of the Zillertal Alps (formerly the Protected Area of the Zill-

Favourite top spot for climbers on the Zillertal Main Ridge: David Fankhauser’s Rosshag Guest House. Here, city dwellers were offered every kind of luxury. Fankhauser’s sister Kathl was even sent to Prague on a cookery apprenticeship in order to provide guests with delicious food instead of the prevailing simple fare.

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Mayrhofen man, Heinrich Moser, “Sagschneider Heinrich“, amongst other Zillertal Mountain Guides in 1900 (sitting, second from left). Equipped with rope, ice axe and “Alpine rods“ or sticks, they climbed every mountain of the Zillertal Main Ridge. They also serviced and maintained the trails (see photo on page 11).

ertal Main Ridge), she has recently published a Short Alpine History of the Mountaineering Village of Ginzling. “Due to his ambitious search for stones he was extremely skilled and possessed extensive knowledge of the local area. He walked to the most remote corries and learnt to orientate himself and move around safely in difficult terrain. This is why he was also employed as a beater during large hunting drives in autumn to flush out game from their protective hides, enabling hunters to have a clear shot. Joseler reached parts that were quite simply inaccessible to any other. For this reason it was only logical for the Donaubergers to recommend Joseler when asked about mountain guides.“

The beginnings of mountain guiding And herein lies the crux of the matter. “In the second half of the 19th century more and more researchers, travellers, hikers, climbers and their companions came to the Zillertal Valley. At this time there were no mountain huts and the Alpine Association hadn’t even been thought of, so adventurers had to rely on mountain guides. Suitable guides, however, were in short supply, let alone authorised“, explains Gudrun Steger. First ascents of the Zillertal Main Ridge often started from the Ahrn Valley, where the mountain guide system had been organised somewhat earlier than in Zillertal.

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The first mountain guide tariff for GinzlingDornauberg, where David Fankhauser and Hans Hörhager are listed as “officially approved” mountain guides. “In order to address the mountain guide problem in Zillertal, Ferdinand Löwl referred to Johann Stüdl, long standing Chairman of the Prague Section of the German and Austrian Alpine Association (DuOeAV) “, continues Gudrun Steger. Together, Löwl and Stüdl worked on a detailed mountain guide tariff for GinzlingDornauberg, that included who would receive a license to guide as well as which tours could be made with the appropriate financial conditions. The only names included were David Fankhaus-


Pictures: Chronik Ginzling, Chronik Mayrhofen, www.norbert-freudenthaler.com

Ferdinand Löwl (left) is the one to thank that Johann Stüdl from the Prague Section DuOeAV, initiated a brisk business in tourism in the Zillertal Alps (above: Ginzling). He organised the guiding system and provided his expertise in establishing trails and building guide lines for huts.

er and Hans Hörhager. “One may wonder why Georg Samer was not mentioned by name, but he actually refused to be forced into an organisation“, says Gudrun Steger. “Joseler had a very individual personality. He earned his living from the sale of his mineral discoveries and was constantly educating himself in this area. He was in close contact with leading geologists of the time and was able to choose for himself whether mountain guiding was right for him or not“, says the author. Regardless of whether certified or not, Steinklauber Joseler was considered to be the first mountain guide of Ginzling and numerous first ascent in Ginzling can be traced to back to him. He led, amongst others, the first ascent to the Schwarzstein (3,368 m), Hochfeiler (3,510 m), Olperer (3,476 m), Turnerkamp (3,420 m) and together in 1873 with the geographer, Zöppritz, to the Grossen Greiner (3,201 m), which he had already discovered from all sides whilst roaming through the region. This first ascent was really only a kind of “Topping out ceremony“ for him.

Tourism Boom Ginzling developed, not least because of Löwl‘s book, into a lively mountain village from where many peaks of the main ridge could be easily accessed. Construction of the Berliner Hut in 1879, only a year after the book was published,

contributed enormously to the advent of tourism in the area from which the mountain guide system then developed. At the turn of the 20th century, there were more mountain guides in Ginzling than in all the surrounding villages put together. Gudrun Steger: “The Rosshag Guesthouse owned by David Fankhauser, one of the first two guides in Zillertal, became a coveted mountaineering base. Fankhauser had a completely different style to his contemporary, Steinklauber Joseler. He understood that he needed to cater for the well being of his guests, putting his sisters to work in the kitchen utilising the culinary skills they had acquired in Prague and the wine cellar equipped by Stüdl, as well as installing electricity into the house in 1901.“ He also played a big role in ensuring that trails were built and managed the first mountain huts on the main ridge, such as the Berliner Hut and Furtschaglhaus together with his sisters. Other landlords took heed of all these initiatives and extended their houses and services offered – the development in tourism took off from there. Today, mountaineering villages like Ginzling provide a holiday destination for those seeking rest and relaxation – an active holiday in the midst of nature, well away from major tourist centres, where it sometimes suffices to only say yes, yes or no, no – like the old Joseler.

Alpine history Gudrun Steger wrote her “Alpingeschichte kurz & bündig – A Short Story on Alpine History“ for Ginzling as part of the initiative by the Austrian Alpine Assoc., “Mountaineering Villages”. All those who want to find out more about the sustained development of Alpine tourism, the book is available to download at: www.bergsteigerdoerfer.at

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80 women in 800 km of biking paradise Bike diary. At the first Cube Women’s Bike Camp in Mayrhofen, 80 participants cycled over pastures, gravel paths, high alpine roads and single trails in and around Mayrhofen/Hippach. Regardless of whether on a racing or mountain bike: a backdrop of fantastic panoramic scenery was always part of the action! With 800 km of cycle and mountain bike routes right up to 2,000 metres above sea level, ranging from a beginner’s easy trail to an Adventure All MountainTour – all tastes and levels of ability are catered for here.

Day 1 – Downhill delights “These views are guaranteed to take our minds off the hard work“, predicts Doris from Munich as we take a look at the peaks around Mayrhofen. We cycle off to the Penken lifts on our new, full-suspension Cube test bikes. The four of us load our downhill machines into the lifts and whizz up Mount Penken without even breaking into a sweat: The first 1,350 metres in altitude is easy going. It’s going to need a little more effort, skill and ability to make it back down, though, because two challenging single trails are waiting for us – the Himmelfahrt (Ascension Trail) and Höllenritt (Hell Ride). Fortunately, we have already been busy practising tight corners, obstacles and balance on a riding technique test course down the bottom. Our guide is none other than Alex Ganster, free-ride guide and mastermind of the

Pictures: Tommy Bause

“It‘s great when you are given instruction on what to do – it’s half the battle ;-)“ two downhill trails. My heart pounds at the sight of the steep curves, jumps and wave runs. “You always have the chicken ways out to avoid obstacles“, reassures Alex. With the expectant eyes of the spectators watching from the Panorama Trail on our backs and the encouraging words of our guide in my head, I master this steep challenge. In addition to the correct sitting position and a good sense of balance, it takes a good portion of courage to venture down this narrow

trail littered with stones and tree roots. A few hairpin bends, kicks of adrenalin and metres in altitude later, I am safely back in the valley. “The Action Mount Penken really lives up to its‘ name“, agree all the girls in the group. Proudly, we march back to the recently opened Europahaus in Mayrhofen, to reluctantly hand our bikes back at the Expo Area. Although the mountains still look very tempting and I would love to have another go, I decide to save my strength for the next two days. Now it’s brain power on the agenda, because the programme also provides a wide choice of exciting workshops. I am well acquainted with the basic principles of “How do I pack my backpack correctly?” so I decide to take the bike repair course and concentrate on disc brakes and chain rivets. “The chain falling off won’t pose any problems for me in future“, I think at the end – another reason to give myself a pat on the back. The oil on the hands of the masseurs on the stand next door is fortunately quite different to the one I’ve been using. The first day draws to a pleasant close with cocktails and live music at the après bike party.

Day 2 – puffing my way up, enjoying the surroundings, whizzing down “Great – the sun is shining!“ – are my first thoughts on waking. The second: “Phew, I’m going to treat myself to a massage after cycling today to stop my muscles from aching.“ After all, there are even more metres in altitude on the programme today than yesterday. Relieved, I note that in my group there doesn’t seem to be the female equiv-

Panorama trail Whether biker, climber or paraglider: From the Panorama Trail you can see them all. Or maybe you are one of them. From the recently created Panorama Trail it is possible to get a taste of the adventure air without even getting out of breath. On this manageable trail which is suitable for every man and woman, it is even possible to push a pram. Interactive stations along the edge of the trail simulate the fitness and coordinative requirements of the various sporting activities that can be enjoyed on this action mountain. So you can try out, for example, the feeling of flying on the paraglider swing whilst “real paragliders“ launch into their start manoeuvres.

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Don’t let the stunning scenery distract you – this downhill requires full concentration! With a little technique training, every trail is achievable for every woman.

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“Look ahead – keep you weight at the rear“ – those who follow the tips and tricks of the guides from Bicycle Holidays Max Hürzeler, will have no trouble at all mastering the steep curves. 80 participants experienced full on bike fun at the Cube Women‘s Camp. The central meeting place was the Expo Area, which surrounds the recently built Europahaus in Mayrhofen.


80 smiling bike girls on one spot – the reason being: superb tours, superb mountains, superb bikes, superb guides, superb programme, superb organisation, superb weather, superb atmosphere – simply superb!

alent of Lance Armstrong. The forest track winds its‘ way slowly uphill, leaving us with enough breath to enjoy having a chat – topic number 1 is the view of the surroundings:

Pictures: Tommy Bause Fotos: Paul Sürth

“ I’m definitely going to do this again! I’m already looking forward to these three days next year!“ “This is heaven on earth!“, topic number 2: “What is there to eat at the hut?“ We are surprised at how quickly we gain altitude. “We are already at one with the peaks“, we smile. Some bends and 1,000 metres in altitude later we aren’t disappointed: Right in front of us is a picture book mountain hut. “God went to a lot of trouble when he created this spot on earth“, says Christine from Switzerland. Are we ever going to get out of these sun loungers again? Most of us choose “Kaiserschmarren – a sweet, chopped omelette” to eat – we want to get our strength up for the downhill run. Homemade schnapps from the landlord works wonders: Confidently, we rock on down the forest route and even take a detour over a beautiful side trail. A biking colleague from Luxemburg even whoops in glee over our downward progress and we all cycle back down to Mayrhofen with silly grins

on our faces. After a massage and refreshing dip I’m fit for the evening fashion show from the young designer “Tiroler Adlerin“ and live music from Alpin Banda.

Day 3 – Time for thin tyres “Let’s see what the Zillertal Valley asphalt has in store for us“– is my plan for the third and unfortunately, last day. Kitted out with a super light carbon racing machine it’s off to Zillergrund. Sounds of waterfalls instead of the noise of motor engines and well away from exhaust fumes, cows are grazing on lush pastures – cycling can be so idyllic! Our goal lies above the dam wall; the view of the shimmering light on the lake, green valley and mighty peaks takes my breath away – as does the steepest section of the ascent! We are completely spellbound when the mountain hut landlord allows his eagle to fly for us. On the return journey we go for the ultimate speed kick – the speedometer climbs to over 50 km/h and the corners of our mouths move up and up! I am in love – with the fabulous mountains, the magnificent bike infrastructure, the nice people you meet everywhere as well as in the wheels I tested. What I had already suspected, was confirmed whilst chatting with other groups. There is so much to see – two legs and three days are quite simply not enough!

Cube Women’s Bike Camp 2011 Endless mountain and racing bike tours – and riding tips from the experts, product test­ ing, Do-It-Yourself-Workshops, Pilates sessions, loads of sunshine and a fashion show are the absolute icing on the cake: Three fabulous days long, 80 novice and advanced cyclists can enjoy guided tours on Cube racing and mountain bikes as well as ride and test material provided by manufacturers such as Alpina, Sigma and Deuter . Details on the Cube Women‘s Bike Camp 2011 under www.womenscamp.de

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Looking for your training range? Put the chest strap on and get on the ergometer. About ten minutes later, personal training recommendations can be made based on your heart rate. Talking this through afterwards takes a little longer, of course.

In good shape? Those who have a specific sporting goal in mind should not only train their body, but know it too. To get the necessary information it’s well worth visiting the performance diagnostician, Armin Wierer. 16


Höhenluft Long distance tri-athlete, Benedict Ebenbichler, visits Armin at the Sportclinic every two to three months in preparation for his competitions. He can’t wait to see: the evaluation results.

Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com Fotos: Mayrhofen

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rmin doesn’t particularly like the words “Performance diagnostics“ because “everyone immediately imagines a person covered in cables and sweating it out on an ergometer.“ Not because this idea is actually so horrible, it’s just that the way to tailor made recommended training programmes doesn’t have to be sweaty, or even bloody. “We are looking for individual readings of endurance capability, for which we don’t need to analyse a few drops of blood, as in lactate testing, but breath by breath”, explains the budding sports scientist. “Aeroscan“ is the name of the threshold test, in which the body is gradually introduced to increasing physical strain. It takes two minutes to test stress levels. After 30 to 60 seconds, the body should have become accustomed to the increased exertion and in the final 30 seconds, the test person breathes through a mouthpiece. “In this period, respiratory gas exchange is measured“, says Armin. In the almost three years that he has been working with this system, it was never his aim to push people to their physical “Limit”, but measure their readings in a normal training range. “I can watch live on screen what is happening – the metabolic stress is analysed throughout the entire test period. More fat is burned by fit people at low intensity training, the higher the intensity, the less fat gets burned. A recommended training plan can be created using these readings. And that’s exactly what this test boils down to“, explains Armin.

Defining levels, knowing limits “Whether it is a housewife planning to lose weight effectively with exercise and wants to find out her fat burning zones, or a tri-athlete who wants to conquer the Iron Man in under ten hours, the test range will be affected, but the concept remains the same. “Know your

body and its‘ limits.“ To establish an effective training range, it is enough for Armin to put the test person on a bike with a chest strap. Those who are interested in finding out additional medical data are fitted with a spiro-ergometry apparatus (respiratory gas measuring device). As a precautionary measure, the Sportclinic doctors take a look in advance at blood pressure, lung function and ECG. Furthermore, previous injures and sporting history is discussed before anyone is allowed on the treadmill or ergometer. “I put tri-athletes on the bike first in order to perform a sub-maximum test and a specific running test follows on the treadmill“, explains Armin, who has a mixed clientele of patients ranging from footballers and skiers to Formula 3 racers and hand ball players. Even fire-fighters have come to him to test breathing apparatus. He answers the question about whether he advises famous sports persons pragmatically: “I don’t brag about big names, I’d rather just do my job well. But I am proud to say that we have some clients who travel great distances to be checked out here in Mayr­hofen. Others take advantage of our range or treatments whilst on holiday here, to find out more about their personal performance levels.“ Armin’s personal maximum output on the bike is around 400 watts; at 250 watts (his performance threshold) he cycles with a pulse of 159. This is just a benchmark, in case you’re interested in finding out your own personal levels. Your body will thank you.

Background It would almost be easier to list the sporting activities that Armin Wierer DOESN’T take part in. As a state qualified ski instructor, sport climber, ice hockey and tennis player as well as endurance athlete (running and cycling) he already has a stockpile of sports equipment at home in Mayrhofen. At the Sportclinic he uses his in depth knowledge of performance diagnostics to provide expert training advice and planning. The 27 year old is just completing his master studies at Innsbruck University. www.sportclinic.at

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Pictures jostle for space in Erich Geisler‘s studio apartment. “It is lively, because every picture is different. After all, I am very lively too“, smiles the artist and reaches for his tools.

The eternally seeking bull without horns Artist, Erich Geisler, walks in and out of gilded cages, loves jumping in at the deep end, lives at the age of 60 like a 35 year old and looks forward to every new day – even when he gets out of the wrong side of bed. 18


Höhenluft A real eye catcher – the inlay marquetry skis. “These are top class skis that can even be used by beginners“, says the artist. Right: With Holly­ wood star and US-Senator, Arnold Schwarzenegger.

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e is hanging in the homes of Arnold Schwarzenegger, Harrison Ford, Sandra Bullock, Paris Hilton, Al Gore and many other stars: The Geisler. The artist in flesh and blood, however, is more than happy not to be stuck in one of these “Gilded cages“, as he calls them. Despite travelling extensively and attending many international exhibitions he always feels the tug of his home strings and gladly returns to find peace and inspiration. “You’re only a star once you own a real Geisler“, is apparently what Jane Fonda once said to the man himself. With his inlaid marquetry images, this native “Mayrhofner” has created unique works of art from wood that he has gathered himself from all corners of the globe. “The various woods give each picture their own, individual nuance and it always plays into the theme.“ Erich Geisler requires around 250 man hours to create his 40 x 50 or 50 x 60 centimetre pictures; the waiting period – even for those with famous names – is one year. “I have to work accurately and with great precision and, for that reason, can’t put myself under pressure“, Erich Geisler works according to the maxim, more haste, less speed.

Fotos: Mayrhofen Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com

Rich in perspectives “I am a person that has always been used to challenges. I am an eternal seeker! I am drawn to everything, I am interested in everything – and precisely this attitude makes life and art interesting. If you don’t try out anything new, even art can become monotonous, just like any other job. For this reason I experiment frequently with new techniques and materials. I stop at nothing, and nothing fazes me. After all, my star sign is Taurus, just one without horns.“ Changing perspectives is very important to him: “Distances were never a problem for me, which is why my range of work is incredibly varied.

I’m happy being outside in summer, painting pictures in pastel, oil or watercolour. “He has even tried his hand at making perfume bottles and drafted a wooden model for Joop: “It had to be 110 per cent perfect, because it was used to make moulds out of.“ A “Geisler” cannot only be hung on the wall or filled with perfume, however. It can also be ridden, in the form of skis designed with a marquetry inlay. 12 layers of clear polish were used to seal the precious inlay of Caribbean woods. The surface of the original skis were then scanned and used as a digital ski design. The master himself skis with the real thing down the slopes of Action Mountain Penken and Leisure Mountain Ahorn.

Rooted When others shake their heads Erich Geisler nods enthusiastically, because he has always been one to jump in at the deep end. He grew up in Mayrhofen and left for Vienna at the age of 16 to attend The Graphics Industry Art School and study restoration, sculpture, painting and ceramics. “Positive stress keeps you alert and young. This is why I live at the age of 60 like a 35 year old. Whether it is this type of “deep water“ that keeps him young, or the hour that he swims every day, doesn’t really matter. “Art is my life,“ he says, but not without adding mischievously: “and the beautiful models.“ Erich Geisler loves the excitement and the peace: “I like to take everything as it comes in life without letting it finish me off.“ The one woman he married was killed in an accident. He has immortalised her in an image called the “Water Fairy“, his favourite picture that he created in his favourite colours, shades of blue. As much as Erich Geisler appreciates and loves everything around him, this is always something that the great man’s heart will be particularly attached to.

Erich in his studio with three of his works. For the “Mosele“, as the Great Möseler – second highest mountain in the Zillertal Alps at 3,478 m – is called in Mayrhofen, he worked with 35 different types of wood from five continents (bottom).

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Joy starts with M: Mayrhofen Harald Flecker and Georg Sedlmayr are discovering the Zillertal Valley by bike and car. What they took with them: All kinds of pleasure.

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Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com, Mayrhofen

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hat’s just how I envisaged it would be“, Harald Flecker is delighted. “Kilometre long Alpine roads, beautiful landscapes and mountain guest houses which invite you to take a little rest – all of this is the perfect setting for a wonderful driving experience“. The head of Austria’s BMW Clubs is out and about exploring the Zillertal Valley with his colleague, Georg Sedlmayr. “We do know our way around here, but for an experience of this magnitude we naturally want to be well equipped and prepared“, he says. He is actually referring to two events that will be taking place in the Mayrhofen/Hippach holiday region from the 7th to 10th July 2011: Austria’s BMW Clubs Meet 2011 and the 47th European BMW Clubs meeting.

Only the most beautiful routes get into the road book “We have chosen Mayrhofen as the venue, because one of the most important reasons

for members to come to these meets is to experience fantastic trips together. Mayrhofen/

“Mayrhofen/Hippach’s unique location makes it the ideal starting point for numerous tours.“ Hippach’s unique location makes it the ideal starting point for numerous tours in and around the majestic mountain scenery“, explains Harald Flecker. For the official “Road Book“ (route information in chart form), he is gathering information with Georg Sedlmayr about some of the finest destinations for car trips and bike tours in the upper Zillertal for the meeting. According to him, some of these include the Schlegeis Alpine Road, the Zillertaler High Road, the winding toll road

BMW Clubs Austrian Meeting Austria’s BMW Clubs Meet as well as the 47th European BMW Clubs Meeting will be held in Mayrhofen from the 7th to 10th July 2011. Hundreds of BMW enthusiasts will be getting together over the four days to share experiences and joint excursions in the beautiful mountains of Mayrhofen. Joining the action will be: Chris Pfeiffer, four times World Champion in stunt riding and one of the best stunt riders in the world. www.bmw-clubs.at

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Taking a break is all part and parcel of a successful trip by bike or car, like here on the road to the Stillup Reservoir.

What is the bike capable of and how does it handle? – Shop talk and exchanging experiences amongst professionals.

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Pleasure is in the foreground – consciously experiencing the environment and great food whilst out driving.

“ I have been on my motorbike in the past to places that I would otherwise never have seen.“ into the Stillup Valley as well as into Zillergrund.

Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com, Mayrhofen Fotos: Paul Sürth

The fascination of driving Why not discover the Zillertal Valley on foot or bicycle? What is the fascination of motor sport? According to Harald Flecker there are a whole myriad of reasons. “First and foremost, driving is incredible fun. You are absolutely focused on the here and now. I feel the speed, the power of the motor bike and am surrounded by nature – am actually almost part of it. Everyone knows their bike or car and relishes every moment of cruising on the challenging winding roads. Short cuts or speeding from A to B are absolutely not on the agenda“, says this motorcyclist. “I have been on my motorbike in the past to places that I would otherwise not have visited, let alone discovered them for myself. You just have to stop from time to time to enjoy particularly nice views, discuss driving techniques or

have a rest with other riding companions, eat or simply gaze at a waterfall or lake like here in the Ziller Valley. What could be nicer than having the time to cruise in a mountainous region, consciously soak up the environment and get to know the country and its’ people? That’s what motor sport is all about for me.“

Culinary delights and boots of beer “I am travelling by car and love to drive stretches of road like the one that approaches the Schlegeis Reservoir“, adds his partner, Georg Sedlmayr. “The 13.3 km long Schlegeis Alpine Road begins at the charming mountaineering village of Ginzling at 1,000 metres above sea level and winds upwards over eight hairpin bends and through four stone tunnels to the car park at the Schlegeis Reservoir at around 1,800 metres above sea level. The dam wall up there is 131 m in height and particularly impressive. Not only that, on the drive there I stopped off at one of the many guest houses on route and sampled culinary delights and typical Tyrolean specialities from the Zillertal Valley – pure pleasure!“ After so many stories and experiences the only thing missing is the boot of beer. That’s the glass that bikers enjoy after a successful day out in their leathers. And Harald Flecker agrees: “Yes, that’s just how I imagine it.“

The most beautiful excursions The Zillertaler High Road is one of the most beautiful Alpine Roads in Austria and leads up to over 2,000 metres above sea level. The journey along the Schlegeis Alpine Road also begins in Mayrhofen and leads to the 131 m high, double curved, Schlegeis dam wall. Another winding toll road with a maximum inclination of 15 % leads to the Stillup Valley Reservoir and Zillergrund can be accessed via the Zillergrund Alpine Road.

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In front of a cosy mountain hut that he likes to visit, mountain guide Stefan Wierer, enjoys a hearty snack: A platter of regional bacon, cheese and sausage.

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Well sheltered, in the huts of Mayrhofen “Protection for the wanderer – in defiance of the weather“ – an old saying that mountain guide, Stefan Wierer uses when asked about “Hut flair“, as well as the fact that although the food and sleeping arrangements may be simple, they are still in a class of their own.

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ou can’t get further away from everyday life than in one of the refuge huts in the mountains. “That’s what gives them their appeal, as well as the stunning landscapes“, Stefan makes this point while we are waiting for our snack to be served. Outside a storm is brewing which we have just managed to miss and get into the dry. “Once I was underway with a group of American children in glorious sunshine to scale one of the peaks. After we got to a ridge, a sudden sleet and snow shower surprised us. As quickly as the storm came it was over, but it was enough to soak us to the skin. We were very grateful to be able to change clothes and warm

Fotos: privat (1), Mayrhofen (2) Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com

“ Hikers often come here not to scale the peaks, but because of the great food up here.“ up in a mountain hut nearby“, says Stefan. “When bad weather reigns outside, you realize just what purpose these huts have served for more than 150 years. A lovely feeling of security envelops you from the moment you step over the threshold.“ I can only nod and smile gratefully at the hut landlord when I see that he has fired up the wood burner. Stefan exudes an enviable air of serenity. “You get that feeling pretty quickly when you hike from hut to hut like we do“, he promises me.

It doesn’t bother me one jot that my mobile phone hasn’t got a signal – a fact that would normally worry me. I just lean back and enjoy the high alpine and mountain hut air. “If mountains would be shells, then huts would be the pearls. At the end of my walk with Stefan I will have a whole string of pearls” is a thought going through my head right now.

Simply at high level Hikers, however, won’t be needing a pearl necklace at 2,000 metres above sea level. Everything is simple – but on a higher level. Here it is automatically more informal and your priorities shift too: “A warm bed, good food – all prepared so lovingly that it definitely gets five stars from me. You mustn’t expect the same levels of comfort as you would find down in the valley, but don’t underestimate the delicious food they can conjure up in often very primitive kitchens! And all that from a kitchen that is probably smaller than some people’s private larders“, laughs Stefan. I am amazed when my food is placed in front of me: a well matured piece of Tyrolean cured bacon, crusty rye bread, Tyrolean mountain cheese and tasty mountain sausage. “Rather a lot of dead animals

Original Tyrolean “Marend“ In order to have enough energy for the hard, physical work around the house and farm, in previous years farmers used to have substantial snacks between their main meals. Marend, as it was then called, was enjoyed late afternoon or early evening. It’s well worth asking for an original Tyrolean Marend when visiting one of the mountain huts. This includes a well matured piece of cured bacon, crusty rye bread and “Bergwurz“ (dry sausage speciality) – all regional products. A shot of fruit schnapps is a worthy conclusion to this tasty meal.

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Many Alpine huts and mountain guest houses in the Mayrhofen/ Hippach Holiday Region offer pleasure hikers and alpine enthusiasts savoury delicacies, a pleasant ambience and protection from the wrath of the elements.

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Hut history

Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com, Mayrhofen

Increasing interest in natural science initially drew explorers to this high alpine region in the 19th century. The first ascent to the peak of Mount Ahorn (2,976 m) by Peter Carl Thurwieser in 1840 is considered to be the instigating moment of mountaineering in the Zillertal Valley. Most of the mountain huts in the municipal area of Mayrhofen were created by the German Alpine Club. Because of increasing population levels and booming tourism, the necessary funding was made available over the last century for various projects. “The oldest hut in the Zillertal Alps is the Berliner Hut“, says Stefan. “She has been

on one plate“, grins my companion, who has ordered his current favourite drink – elderflower cordial – to go with his hearty afternoon snack, or “Marend“ as it is called in these parts. The products are all sourced from regional farmers, because it makes no sense to import food over great distances when such delicious fare is locally available. Various initiatives such as the “Tyrolean Marend” or “That’s what mountains taste of“ encourage cooperation between the hut landlords, mountain farmers and other local food producers. “This has a positive impact on mountain farmers, conserves cultural alpine landscapes and introduces our guests to healthy, high quality and tasty food“, explains the hut landlord. I am amazed at the sight of the wine list, which I really didn’t expect at these altitudes. The compliment I give to my host about the enjoyable meal is immediately rewarded with a glass of home

ensconced in the mountains at 2,042 metres above sea level since 1879. It’s hard to believe that this hut, which today offers 180 beds, originally covered an area of only 6 x 10 metres. Due to subsequent extensions, some of which are even quite luxurious, the Berliner Hut was placed under a protection order on the 10th April 1997 and was the first and is still today, the only listed mountain hut in Austria. In addition to its’ architectural charms, it is an ideal starting point for high alpine tourist, glacier walkers and hut lovers. Not only those wanting to follow the 70 km long Berliner High Trail through the Zillertal Alps will be unable to resist the exceptional charm of this mountain hut.“

brew – not what one would normally expect in recognition. He tells us that more and more hikers come to visit him at the hut because of the food. “They don’t come here to scale the peaks, but because of the great food“, he jokes. We chat for a while about his family life so far away from the valley, before I am overcome with tiredness – and up we go to the dormitory. Wisely, I have remembered to bring my ear plugs and a sleeping bag, because, according to Stefan, these are basic essentials you should always have with you – as well as a touch of serenity. I don’t know what it was that managed to make me get on the road again the next morning: The fabulous view, washing my face in cold water, the strong coffee or the anticipation of my forthcoming summit experience. It doesn’t matter, because the whole hut experience is so much greater than the combined sum of its‘ parts!

Underway with Stefan Stefan Wierer can be relied on. This 44 year old chairman of the Mountain Sport Guides, section Zillertal, has been working as a guide in the mountains for over quarter of a century. A family man, he has long given up counting the metres in altitude he covers; for him it’s the people he ropes up with when it’s time to go uphill that really count. His most important equipment whilst mountaineering: open eyes. Not only to be sure footed when on the trails, but to be able to soak up and enjoy the stunning surroundings. Because the real reason behind the sensational experience of hiking can be described in an old saying: “The ultimate destination is the journey!”

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Green power for white gold Regional economic cycles Due to the proper feeding of animals with hay and grass, highest quality milk and excellent meat is produced, but there are other aspects that also speak for hay milk management. “It secures regional jobs as well as the survival of farmers and the conservation of cultural landscapes. Vegetation and the diversity of species grow and CO2 emissions are reduced with shorter delivery routes, thus protecting the environment“, Fritz Steiner is convinced of the sustainability of hay milk management.

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Fini and Resi have got it good. In summer they can enjoy grazing on lush grasses and natural herbs; in winter they are given the same in dried form. Fermented (silage) fodder is guaranteed not to be in the feeding trough of Zillertal hay milk cows.

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ritz Steiner, organic farmer from Ramsau makes sure of that. His farm is one of the 500 hay milk businesses in the Zillertal Valley. Because the “Moiklerhof Farm“ has been owned by the same family for eleven generations since 1735, it is the proud bearer of the title, “Erbhof“ or “Ancestral Estate”. The ten dairy cows and eight young animals that live there have their own title too: They are Hay Milk Cows. Their natural fodder ensures high quality and delicious milk products, because dried grass is the most

primal form of feed. “We make hay three times a year“, explains Fritz Steiner. From his eight acres of farmland, 3,000 m² are in terrain at 40% gradient – for which a special vehicle is used for mowing. “After mowing, our hay is normally turned once and then dried using a hay drying machine, providing high quality feed for winter.“ Before these machines were invented, hay was stored on the high alpine pastures in wooden stalls, known as “Schober” and brought back down to the valley in autumn or winter. The heavy bundles of hay (often


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Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com

It’s a cycle: lush pastures are turned into nutritious hay; this is turned into valuable fodder, which is needed to be able to produce what comes out of the cows udders into high quality foodstuff. Purity plays an important role not just in cleaning the milk tanks for hay milk farmer, Fritz Steiner, but also when feeding his cows. It is with good reason that they say: Hay milk – the purest milk!

weighing over 300 kg) were much easier to drag or slide over frozen ground and snow – always an arduous and sometimes exciting mode of transport. In this respect, modern technology has made farmers lives easier. Fritz, however, can live without modern “advancements“ such as silage, i.e. the preservation of grasses by fermentation, because: “I am convinced that silage is not entirely suitable for the bovine stomach.“ Even if opinions differ, one thing is sure: Hay milk is the purest form of milk.

Hay Milk Partner Businesses Good milk needs good hay, good hay needs good grass: “Up to 50 different wild herbs grow on our pastures. By cultivating them we farmers are not only providing fodder for our animals, but also contribute towards

maintaining the landscape“, explains Fritz Steiner mindfully whilst getting Resi ready for milking. A similar contribution is made by all quality local businesses that use selected hay milk products from Zillertal, such as milk, butter, yoghurt, cream and cheese in their kitchens. They are awarded with the title “Hay milk partner business”, which means guaranteed quality, regional food whilst safeguarding the survival of Zillertal hay milk farmers. “Hay milk products taste incredibly good and are well worth trying. “In my opinion, this initiative to strengthen regional economic cycles has been extremely successful“, says Fritz Steiner. “Our homeland, economy, environment and not least, our guests, benefit from it – and we as farmers achieve recognition for our efforts.“

Moo! More on hay milk under www.heumilch.at Take a virtual visit on the Moiklerhof Farm: www.moiklerhof.com (Mountain) farmers lives in days gone by: Farm work in the mountains. The work and lives of mountain famers in a picture documentary over half a century. Erika Hubatschek, Tyrolia

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Heading into the realms of Mayrhofen, such as here in the Scheulingwald Forest. With her “green� knowledge, herbal expert, Erika Sporer, awakens the curiosity of guests and locals alike.

Precious world of herbs Erika Sporer is aware of the hidden medicinal and culinary properties of local herbs, and surprises participants regularly with her in depth knowledge on her herbal walks around the holiday region Mayrhofen/Hippach. 30


Höhenluft It is said locally that whoever eats the first three daisies in spring, will be spared of toothache, eye problems and fever for the rest of the year. Erika can’t actually confirm this fact, but instead, can tell you a great deal of interesting information about the little Herbal Power & Co.

Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com

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uch!“, exclaims Gertrud and rubs her forearm. “What’s happened?“, asks Erika and rushes up to her. “Oh, it’s nothing serious“, Gertrud doesn’t want to make a fuss, “but a horsefly has just bitten me.“ It’s good that Erika knows just what to do in situations like this. She looks intently at the meadow where the group of ladies are standing, bends down and plucks a green leaf. “This is ribwort“, she says and asks to see Gertrud‘s forearm. “If you crush the leaves a little and rub them on the insect bite, the swelling will go down. This plant has special properties and can also be used as a cough medicine to ease tickles and cough spasms. Before penicillin was discovered, ribwort was also used to treat pulmonary tuberculosis.“ Eight pairs of interested eyes and ears watch Erika’s movements closely. The visual lessons that can be experienced out and about with Erika are second to none! “I’m permanently on the go in summer“, says herb expert Erika, who is delighted that such large audiences accompany her on her herbal walks. “I have noticed that people are increasingly interested in the hidden powers of herbs and plants and don’t want to use standard medicine for small ailments. At the same time, I always emphasize the fact that medicinal herbs can’t work miracles. They are, however, a valuable complement to traditional medicine.“

The power of the common daisy Just like ribwort can be found all over the place, the common daisy is a plant that pops

up everywhere. Ingrid, one of the group participants, asks if they are actually edible. “Of course, just try one. Eat only the head. It tastes slightly nutty, don’t you think?“, Erika motivates her group to taste the freshly picked flowers. Daisies are not only used as a tasty decoration in salads or spreads: “Tea made from daisy leaves stimulates the appetite and metabolic activity, promotes digestion and has properties that relieve cough spasms. Externally applied, daisy tea can clear up rashes, reduce blemishes and heal stubborn wounds.“ The amazed looks of the participants confirm that they would never have thought this possible of these well known little flowers.

Herbal soup with “wow” effect After around three hours, none of the ladies find it strange any more to hear of plant names like “ground ivy“, or that they are munching away on the various leaves, flowers and stalks of plants that they had previously never even really noticed. Herbal witch, Erika, brews them a soup at the end of the walk made using ingredients that they have found together, and explains that she cooks, bakes bread and creates herbal salt for herself and her family using only self picked herbs. She also makes her own tea, schnapps and ointments. “I enjoy learning more about medicinal and culinary herbs, discovering new varieties and trying out their effects.“ We have experienced a similar “wow“ moment today with Gertrud and the ribwort. There is nothing more to be seen of her horsefly sting.

Sampling herbs From May to October, Erika invites guests and locals alike to discover the medicinal and culinary herbs that are literally growing on their doorstep. During her informative and entertaining walks through protected landscapes of the Scheulingwald Forest, the local recreation areas around Mayrhofen and the surrounding mountains, indigenous medicinal and culinary herbs are gathered, discussed and sampled as well as brewed into soups or teas. More information about this offer can be obtained from the Mayrhofen/Hippach Tourist Board.

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In their element Earth, water, air and rock interplay during the 52 minute Red Bull TV documentary “Elements“ . In Ginzling the central player, Kilian Fischhuber, made an assault on the 8c+graded sport climbing route “Dolby Surround“. His goal: To be the first to climb it red point. Joined by: Gerhard Hörhager, an icon in the Tyrolean climbing scene, as well as a film crew with high-tech equipment.

Pictures: ASP Red Bull

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s unerringly as a wild mountain stream forces its‘ way over rocky river beds down to the valley, so Kilian Fischhuber, Austria’s world class climber, makes his way unswervingly up over rocky walls. The spot: a 20 metre high, 40 degree overhanging section of rock – next to the rushing torrents of a mountain river. None other than local hero, Gerhard Hörhager, who himself has achieved numerous first ascents over the last 20 years and has been instrumental in developing the climbing areas around Mayrhofen, drilled the virgin climbing route here. “It is an unwritten rule amongst us climbers that the first person to drill or discover a new route is the first to try it out. Because this route has thus far defied any first attempts due to its‘ incredible difficulty, Gerhard left this particular first ascent to his friend, Kilian, who has long played with the idea of attempting the rocky overhang set in enchanting alpine surroundings.

plete a film documentary called Elements, in which three major projects of mine, at completely different and unusual locations, will bring viewers closer to the fascination of climbing. In addition to a route in the Wilden Kaiser Mountains of Tyrol and a boulder project in south Africa, the Dolby Surround discovered by Gerhard Hörhager is the third hot spot in the film.“ Dolby Surround. “I called it that after my first ascent because the rushing torrents of water running alongside are so loud, you can’t hear your own words. This made the sound recordings particularly difficult!“, Kilian describes with a grin. Communication during the filming of Elements worked perfectly however, despite the noise: “The days of filming went very smoothly“, agrees Gerhard. No wonder – away from the rocky action, the crew enjoyed typical mountain hut fun.

Unique line

Back now to the real leading lady – to Dolby Surround: “I had to acquaint myself with this route bit by bit, because I really wanted to be the first to climb it red point. This means nothing else than climbing it in one go – without the safety chain (carabiner, hooks,

An opportunity that neither Kilian Fischhuber nor Red Bull wanted to miss. “It is a unique line. I was very motivated to discover it for myself“, says Kilian, adding: “Together with my sponsor, I am just about to com-

Tinkering on the rock and behind the camera

Kilian Fischhuber & “Elements“ The 27 year old vice world champion in bouldering (2005) and multiple winner of the bouldering world cup overall standings (2005, 2007, 2008, 2009) shows that he is master of his craft in other disciplines. In the Red Bull documentary, “Elements“ he climbs well away from his special metier in the Wilden Kaiser mountains in airy (!) heights the “Des Kaisers neue Kleider – The Emperor’s New Clothes“ route; takes on a bouldering project on the hot earth (!) of south Africa and masters a tricky sport climbing route close to water (!) in the Zillertal Valley.

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Kilian Fischhuber (right) getting to grips with the Dolby Surround and carefully discussing the best way to attempt the key stage of this challenging 8c+ graded sport climb with Gerhard Hรถrhager.


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rope and harness) or falling, resting in the ropes or pulling on them, or using hooks to assist ascent “, explains Kilian. It took 15 to 20 attempts before this top class climber managed to succeed in climbing the 20 metres, including the key stage – a boulder passage with seven maximum strength grips – in an unbroken sequence without falling. “That was probably my most difficult first ascent ever!“, states Kilian after finally finishing the job. “Gerhard and I have tinkered around quite a bit trying to work out how I should approach the key stage. We know the route inside out, and she plays around in my head even when I’m not climbing her.“ Gerhard confirmed too, that the Dolby Surround will demand a good portion of maximum strength, concentration and inner calm of those wanting to conquer her, because: “After the key stage there is a tricky section that can spoil everything if you are nervous about attempting it.“ Composure – a characteristic that distinguishes Gerhard also off the rocks, according to Kilian. “He is totally mellow. Gerhard is composure personified – an attribute that I could do with. I’m just still young, more restless and like to let rip.“

Pictures: ASP Red Bull

Mellow times & tricky filming During the five days of filming there was time for both: Letting rip and chilling out. Watching Elements is just as exciting for the viewers as it was for the whole team whilst filming. Because, just as intensively that Kilian worked on his climbing task, the camera team had to fine tune spectacular filming perspectives. “We tried to project this incredibly beautiful

location to the viewers by finding the right camera angles and settings to film creatively“, explains the whole team in unison. While there is no scale for rating the difficulty of filming projects, it is clear that they were up against big challenges in Ginzling. “It takes time, lots of camera angles and a lot of feeling to convey such an athletic performance

“ The Dolby Surround in Ginzling was probably my most difficult first ascent ever.“ and climbing experience to the audience. We also wanted to give viewers of Elements a feeling of the atmosphere“, confirm the film crew. “This incredibly beautiful location alongside so much water is so inviting that you can’t help but take off to discover the surroundings and then visit a mountain hut“, says Kilian. There, the entire film crew were able to enjoy amongst other things, the pleasures of freshly caught trout and char. “It was great fun and very motivating to be on the road with such an experienced team“, says the climber. “We have done a very good job and had a great time.“ The downside: “When things are going good, the camera is not always running which flummoxes the film makers who wanted to catch the vibe“, grins Kilian. They succeeded anyway – Elements impressively demonstrates that Kilian Fischhuber is in his absolute element when he can let rip climbing. Be it bouldering, sport climbing or in alpine terrain.

Making of: To perfectly capture the climbing action in Ginzling at the 40 degree overhang, cables, ropes and a crane were used with up to three cameras filming simultaneously. In the middle: Florian Klingler of Red Bull (top right). The five days of documentary filming were also photographically recorded. In order for the zoom and shutter release to function on a rope pull, the photographer communicated via a “joystick“.

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Ski Pioneer, Ernst Spiess, reminisces: “The time during which we built up the Mayrhofen Ski School was marked by a special spirit of optimism.“

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Always looking forward

Picture: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com

Their energy and visionary ideas were the driving force for winter tourism in the Zillertal Valley. Riki and Ernst Spiess, successful alpine skiers and founders of the Mayrhofen Ski School, are inextricably linked with the development of the ski region.

Höhenluft: Mr Spiess, you and your wife Riki are widely regarded as ski pioneers in the Zillertal Valley. How did it come about that you moved from Innsbruck to Mayrhofen in 1954? Ernst Spiess: My wife and I met when we were both members of the Austrian national team. Under her maiden name of Mahringer she was an incredibly successful skier, winning the Hahnenkamm Race, Austrian champion seven times over, double winner of the Kandahar Race, two Olympic bronze and two silver medals in the World Cup in Aspen as well as receiving the “Ski d‘Or“ and named “Austrian Sports Woman of the Year“ in 1951. Riki ended her sporting career in 1954, which I had done myself two years previously. We decided to get married and realize Riki’s dream of opening a ski school. While we were looking for the right location, we heard that the Penken Lifts had opened in Mayrhofen on the 7th July and immediately got into contact with those responsible. Höhenluft: What was tourism like at that time in Mayrhofen? Ernst Spiess: Mayrhofen was always a touristic stronghold with a well functioning hotel in-

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The practice lifts that Riki and Ernst Spiess built for their guests on Mount Penken. As Erika Mahringer, Riki Spiess celebrated numerous racing successes, like here at the 1954 Combined Ski Slalom World Championships in Are.

Both ski school founders surrounded by their instructors.

The Penken Lifts opened in 1957, which lead to rapidly increasing popularity in the area.

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frastructure. This, however, was all based on summer tourism. You have to bear in mind that most guest houses weren’t even equipped with central heating then. Riki explained to the chairman of the Tourist Board at that time of our lift plans and ideas, which although he wasn’t in a position to support financially, he was able to help my wife in other ways. He granted her, as one of the first women ever, the Ski School Concession, enabling her to be the very first woman in Tyrol to open a Ski School. Höhenluft: What was your vision, and how were you able to make it happen? Ernst Spiess: Our goal was that the ski area around Mayrhofen should be extended – something we have constantly fought for. But initially, apart from the Penken lifts, there were absolutely no facilities available – no gastronomy and no infrastructure. We spent all our money on building a small practice lift with two friends and trained three farm hands and a mountain hut owner to be ski instructors. First thing in the morning they were up there, flattening the fresh snow with their skis. Using all the contacts we had made during our time as active ski racers, we began to advertise our ski school and Mayrhofen. Our efforts bore the most fruit in England and Germany. During our first season in 1954/55, our best week consisted of 20 guests. At the same


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The Mayrhofen Bergbahnen Lift Company have played an essential role in putting Mayrhofen on the map as a major tourism region. The first Penken Lifts were officially opened on the 7th July 1954. Those responsible for their construction originally planned with the revenue that summer tourism would bring. However, increasing interest in winter sports meant that an expansion for a ski area was considered after the very first year of operation. Revenue was increased considerably after the construction of a chair lift in 1957. A comparison of the total annual revenue for the years 1955 and 1958, showed an increase of 70% - winter revenues went up by a massive 300%. In the following years the area was steadily developed with the construction of a number of chair lifts. Guests appreciated the spacious ski resort and visited Mayrhofen in increasing numbers to take part in winter sports. The Piste ARGE Community was established on the 4th December 1970, consisting of three partners: Mayrhofen Town Council, the Tourist Board and the Mayrhofner Bergbahnen Lift Company. During the ten years of its’ existence and joint efforts, the ski areas developed by the Mayrhofen Lift Company were continuously maintained and enhanced. This resulted in the Lift Company being one of the top ten cable car companies awarded with the Tyrolean Piste Seal of Quality award in 1978. That Mayrhofen counts as one of the top ten winter ski resorts in Austria, can certainly be credited to those idealists of years gone by. They went to enormous efforts year on year to create pistes, in spite of the difficult topographical conditions, that met the requirements of an international winter sports public. A detailed history of the Mayrhofner Bergbahen Lift Company is available to download from their official website under: www.mayrhofner-bergbahnen.com

Pictures: privat, Mayrhofner Bergbahnen

time we started a ski hire business, which was unheard of in those days. Höhenluft: The Spiess ski family always seems to be in the driving seat with regards to innovation? Ernst Spiess: We have always tried to tackle things in the manner in which they presented themselves. In 1955, Riki was able to realize her dream of opening the world’s first ski kindergarten. It was an absolute novelty that parents could entrust the care of their children to others and have the day to themselves, while we taught the little ones to ski. We used to travel up together on the lifts to the top station at Mount Penken, from where the children were taken by horse drawn sledge to the practice lifts. There, we practiced making turns around poles to which Riki had tied teddy bears. We either returned to the valley for lunch, or ate packed lunches that we had brought with us. What we started at the beginning of the week, was then rewarded with a medal after a final race at the end. This was incredibly well received by all guests – regardless of young or old.

Höhenluft: When did those responsible finally realize the importance of winter sports? Ernst Spiess: In 1957 the Penken Lift Company built a chair lift, which added considerably to the popularity of the resort. I call Penken the “cradle” of skiing in our valley. With every new lift that was subsequently added, winter tourism, overnight stays and numbers of visitors steadily increased. The establishment of the Piste ARGE Community, a cooperative venture between the local council, tourist board and Mayrhofen Lift Company resulted in constant improvements in the quality of the pistes and Mayrhofen could meet the increasing demands of international winter sport fans. Höhenluft: Winter sport fans that came because of your efforts in boosting tourism? Ernst Spiess: I do think that our efforts have contributed somewhat. I was not only a ski instructor, but Head of the Tyrolean Ski Federation and coach to several national and Olympic teams, but also a mountain guide. During the fifties and sixties I built up a mountain tour programme based in Mayrhofen and employed up to twelve guides, including my close friend

Ski family Spiess Uli and Nicola Spiess were born with a passion for skiing. Both are state certified ski instructors and were world class talents, like their parents, with the Austrian Ski Team. Uli will always be fondly remembered by the Austrian public as being the first to dare to jump over the 50 m Camel’s Hump in 1980 at Gröden. Nicola lives with her husband and three children in Vienna, while Uli, his wife and two children have remained true to Mayrhofen. He runs the Spiess Ski Hire with three shops, a restaurant and a Café/Bar.

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This couple started the ski school with only three instructors, by the mid-eighties it had grown to an impressive team of 179.

In 1969 Riki and Ernst Spiess welcomed Caroline Kennedy as a famous participant to the Tennis and Ski Camp.

Toni Volgger and the young Peter Habeler. In summer a train full of British guests arrived every Monday, who were then divided up into different groups to go on various mountain tours crossing the Zillertal Alps or Rock- & Ice courses. We were underway in the mountains for 12 days with our English groups and many of these guests returned in winter, meaning that summer and winter seasons benefited from each other. It was a wonderful time, pervaded by a real spirit of optimism.

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Riki Spiess opened the world’s first ski kindergarten; the former Ski School Mayrhofen has now made way for numerous others.

Pictures: privat, www.norbert-freudenthaler.com

“Ulli always liked to jump.“ Ernst Spiess in front of the numerous mementos won by his successful family of skiers.

Höhenluft: Is there one experience that you particularly like to look back on? Ernst Spiess: One high point was definitely the Ski and Tennis Camp in 1969, which was joined by the 11 year old Caroline Kennedy with a few of her friends. The Ski Camp finished and then Chuck McKinley, Wimbledon singles winner of 1963, joined the Tennis Camp. I remember well having the American children in our house when Neil Armstrong made his first steps on the moon – that was a very special moment. Back then we were in the newspapers with Caroline Kennedy, on no less than page 1 of the New York Times! Höhenluft: You are now 83 years old. What are your thoughts on the Mayrhofen of today? Ernst Spiess: A great deal has changed, but the village remains in a strong position and businesses have remained down to earth and authentic. What I really like is that Mayrhofen still plays an innovative role: The Snowbombing-Festival, for example, is an amazing event!


Höhenluft Ernst Spiess’ comments on Ben Reid: “This young man has chosen a hard road, but if he really wants to be a top alpine skier it has to be the right choice. I wish him all the very best from the bottom of my heart!“

With an iron will and steely discipline Mit Willensstärke & eiserner Disziplin Ben Reid has a dream: This 18 year old English lad wants to be the best British skier of all time. Mayrhofen is giving him a helping hand.

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lympia gold – now that really would be my dream!“ laughs Ben with a mischievous glint in his eyes. And you actually get the feeling that this young Englishman could make his dream come true. He decided, after all, at the tender age of 12 that he wanted to become a professional skier and trained like mad for years with the British Ski Club. He finished school at 16 and continued to show great strength of will in remaining true to his goal. “To be the best British skier of all time, I had to go to where the best come from and train – which happens to be Austria.“ A wish that fell on the sympathetic ears of his father and manager, Gary Brennan. He too is an enthusiastic skier and has worked as an instructor in Mayrhofen as well as on the Hintertux Glacier, which means he is very familiar with the optimal conditions: “Top ski teams come here for training purposes and, if you want to be one of the very best, it’s simply not enough just to join the British team for the short 12 weeks of the year that they train here. You have to work all year round on this – and Ben knows it.“

In the midst of Mayrhofen, in the midst of life Supported by a top team – the “Reid Team“ –

that has shaped Ben for the last two years. “I train with the Tux Sports Club on the glacier, work closely together with my ski coaches, Andi Rausch, Brett Lowney and Pete Gilespie and my training programme is co-ordinated by none other than Jan Greisinger from sportmed Tirol, who has also taken care of international sporting stars such as Hermann Maier or Stefan Eberharter.“ Ben lives at the Kramerwirt Hotel in the middle of Mayrhofen, where he has more or less become a member of the family, and counts his lifestyle coach Roy Butterfield as more of a friend than team member. “Roy makes sure that training sessions are compensated for with fun outings that include cycling or climbing,“ Gary explains. And the hard work seems to be bearing fruit: In the previous winter season, Ben enjoyed fantastic results at the FIS Races – the next step is the “European Cup“ which seems to be within easy reach. “But let’s take one step at a time“, says the young Englishman himself. There are more than enough goals to aim for, the most important thing is just to enjoy the sport – something he has always done. With all that being said – rock on Sochi, 2014! Ben’s career can be followed on his blog: www.benreidski.blogspot.com

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The international shape crew at VANS Penken Park modify the fun park several times over the course of a winter season, adjusting to the various challenges of the rider – day by day.

Playground for the freestyle scene May we present the VANS Penken Park – loaded with awesome obstacles and hub of the freestyle scene.

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ertainly one of the best and largest parks in the Alps“, said with conviction by someone who should know. Local hero, Roman Rohr­ moser, loves visiting the VANS Penken Park. “The fun factor here is second to none. Be it the various lines which are per­ fectly shaped daily by a 10-strong team or the cool contests and events that are host­ ed here. The atmosphere is always fantas­ tic, dominated by tolerance, friendship

and chilling out.” Sentiments confirmed by Steffi Wolter, marketing manager at VANS: “We are starting out on our fourth season with the VANS Penken Park. I have experienced many events here, such as the Wängl-Tängl and have boarded my­self often in the Park. Everyone is welcome here – professionals and beginners, snow­ boarders and free skiers alike”. The Snow Park, after all, is a kind of ­basin which opens up in the Horberg ­Valley


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Five lines in total and first class obstacles are waiting to be conquered in Mayrhofen: 11 kicker, two Hips, 34 boxes/rails and a half pipe.

Pictures: Mayrhofner Bergbahnen, VANS, Werni Stock, Simon Lemmerer

Greenroom tests & photo shootings

The fun factor at Penken is on a constant high – in the midst of it all: VANS Marketing-Lady Steffi Wolter. and offers plenty of room. “A giant play­ ground“, is how Steffi describes it. “Free­ stylers have a total of five lines to choose from. There is a Kids-Line where everyone can have a go, or a Pro-Line. In between taking your own runs, you can relax watch­ ing the pros at play and maybe pick up a few ideas of your own”.

Meeting point of the freestyle scene The best place to watch your friends in ac­ tion is from the “Sunjet“. This four seat­

er chairlift actually runs along the length and edge of the Funpark. But more impor­ tantly, the “Sunjet“ enables freestylers to complete an extraordinary amount of runs. Steffi is convinced and Roman agrees that “You can’t complete such a high frequency of runs in any other park. It’s not surprising that the VANS Penken Park is a trail blazer for European performance standards and has established itself as a meeting point for the international freestyle elite. It’s simply how a Funpark should be!“

The week starts well! Those interested have the opportunity to try out the latest free ski and snowboards at the Greenroom stand in Vans Penken Park every Monday from 10.00 to 14.00 hrs for free. And on Tuesday the fun goes on: during the day from 13.00 to 15.00 hrs there is a Park photo shooting opportunity for all, while on Saturdays experienced free skiers and boarders allow you take spectacular pictures of them doing what they do so well ... Current Park news and associated events can be found under: www.vans-penken-park.com

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Paul Sürth knows better than any­one else about the unpredictability of nature – but still affords himself the luxury of being a perfectionist. If he’s not happy with certain factors, it is entirely possible that he will return from a photo tour in the mountains empty handed.

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The torture of passion Paul Sürth. Paul Sürth has been a natural history photographer for over 30 years in the Zillertal Valley. Höhenluft joined him on a foray into the alpine landscapes – it was tricky keeping up, but what was lacking in fitness levels was more than made up for with enthusiasm.

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meet Paul Sürth for the first time in a Mayrhofen patisserie. Over coffee and cakes it is wonderful to chat to this man who was born in Graz, Austria, but has lived here for over 40 years and is married to a lady from the Zillertal Valley. We speak about how photography has affected his life and I realise quickly that this is no lightweight in the world of imagery sitting here in front of me. This wiry man with an observant eye doesn’t just press the shutter – he repeatedly questions the whys and wherefores of his own photographic work; Sets new goals and wonders what forces drive him to “endure“, in the truest sense of the word, the torture of his passion: “Photography with substance“. And Paul Sürth starts to philosophise about what photography really means to him. This natural history photographer has been underway in the mountains of Zillertal for over thirty years – on foot, on ski or bike. He knows the name of every peak, has climbed over walls of ice countless times and knows the Zillertal mountains like the back of his hand. For Paul Sürth, the arduous journey needed to access the object of his lens is all part and parcel of the creation of an image. To date, I have only seen his unique photos on his homepage (www.paul-suerth.at) and before we carry on talking, and I consider the madness of what I am agreeing to, I promise to join him on a small ski tour – to witness at firsthand how Paul Sürth arrives at his wonderful pictures.

Pictures: Paul Sürth

Underway with the marathon man This time I meet Paul Sürth at a car park. From his home in Hippach we travel on together in only one car, heading to Schwendberg and the Zillertal High Road to Brindling. We are joined on our project by a fabulous, late winter day. Not a cloud in the sky – perfect conditions for good bounty. We are – as befits

mountain comrades – on first name terms by now. Paul shows me which equipment he has brought with him on this tour which includes two cameras, tripods and a decent collection of lenses. While he casually swings his 20 kg backpack onto his shoulders, I take a glance at my mini rucksack and hope I’m not going to look too unsportsmanlike with my first steps on tour skis in the snow. “I can’t have forgotten how to ski“, I think to myself. “I’m a Tyrolean girl and we are born on skis“, I try to reassure myself. I’m busy trying to work out when I went on my last ski tour – can it really be 11 years ago!? – Paul is already marching ahead and I ask him how his time consuming hobby is compatible with his job as a buyer for a Mayrhofen installations company. “A very tolerant employer and good team of colleagues make it possible for me to take off

“ Happiness is when the pictures I bring home reveal the splendour of nature that reflects what I have experienced. They tell their own story – with no need for words.“ spontaneously to go scouting for new images in unexpected good weather conditions” says Paul, casually walking up the first incline. We have been walking for some way and I’m already a little out of breath, when I ask him if he has a certain idea in his head of how the pictures should look at the end of the day. “Well“, smiles Paul, “I know my way around these parts very well as I have spent an incredible amount of time exploring nature here. In winter I am always out and about on my tour skis, in summer I go climbing and have taken part in many cycle marathons to stay in shape.“ “Great“, I think, “I’m on the road with marathon man“ and try to concentrate on putting one ski in front of the other, “just don’t

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The work place of a nature photographer – the Arbiskopf Peak at 2,120 metres above sea level with a stunning panorama of the Zillertal Mountains. How the photo turned out that Paul took at this moment can be seen on page 3.

go weak and remember to breathe evenly“. “So I know of many special places I can return to take photos and already have a certain idea of how the final image will turn out“, Paul forges ahead, oblivious to what’s going through my head. “I often leave first thing and have to walk for a few hours before I’m at the place I want to be and the light is right. But I have long given up on expecting a photo to turn out exactly the way I envisaged it would.“

The uniqueness of a moment

Natural history photography is not pictures taken in passing, according to Paul Sürth. Nature photography requires an honest confrontation between the photographer and his environment.

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As a photographer, he recognises the uniqueness of a moment as a fundamental principle in natural history photography. “There have been situations when I thought to myself whilst looking at my pictures: You have to go back and choose a different setting, or something else. But to improve a picture depends not only on me, but on hundreds of other factors. Landscapes are altered by man, they never appear the same, even in the same light, flowers are different even in the same stage of growth, animals are the same, or not, depending on how you perceive it all. There is sometimes more, sometimes less light, plants change in the rain or are destroyed by drought.“ For this reason, his photos are a kind of interim time measurement on a never ending stop watch that preserve a never recurring moment – and serve to help us never forget. Paul has stopped and is looking at the mountain range ahead, deep in thought. My

feeble fitness levels mean that I am delighted to have a quick breather. I take advantage of the moment to tell Paul that I feel I see the mountains in a way that I have never seen before in his pictures. He has an explanation for this too: “My pictures are the way they are because that’s the way I saw them. They are captured in a blink of an eye – a ‘one off moment‘. As soon as the shutter falls I liberate a moment that is inextricably woven in everyday life. We are surrounded by so many phenomena, we just don’t see them. They are hidden from us because we always see them. It is up to photographers – up to me – to show what is actually already visible and what has to be seen. It is my view of things. My decision, what finally gets to be seen in a photo.“ With these words he takes off to conquer the ultimate snow cap.

Moments full of beauty and wilderness The view of the surrounding mountains is impressive. Magical and spectacular in one. Fabulous and overwhelming. All the exertion this ski tour has cost me is forgotten. While I am still amazed by the view, Paul is routinely getting his camera gear into position and starts to take panoramic pictures, á la Sürth, before evening falls and darkness sets in. I wonder whether he too feels this feeling of happiness? “These are the moments that reward all my efforts and the arduous journey


Paul Sürth’s nature – quiet, gentle and thoughtful – is conveyed in his pictures of landscapes and panoramas. He describes his photography as a means of preserving memories and moments.

Pictures: Paul Sürth

is quickly forgotten“, smiles Paul. “Because, as you should know by now: Natural history photography also means for me carrying heavy loads, or pushing them on a bike because riding uphill with a heavy backpack is unbearably hard work. The photo equipment is often an ever-present enemy on my shoulders, gives me back ache and eventually affects my mood. In winter it is sometimes impossible to change lenses because my fingers are so numb, the cold causes batteries to empty prematurely, the tripod doesn’t stay put in the slippery snow and I have to survive for hours in the cold waiting for the long awaited light, that sometimes doesn’t even appear.“ I don’t even want to imagine what it must be like in Paul’s position. You have to be inspired by an idea, full of passion – and yes, definitely be a perfectionist – to pursue natural history photos the way he does. What intrigues him still? “Nature photography also means moments of beauty, wilderness, seeing colour and harmony, moments you wouldn’t otherwise experience. And it brings me happiness when the pictures I bring home reveal the splendour of nature that reflects what I have experienced. They tell their own story – with no need for words.“

necessarily want to spend the night in the open air, will have to make it back down to the valley – for better or worse. In the beam of my headlamp I watch Paul, with a huge rucksack on his back, expertly carving his way on skis back down from the Arbiskopf Peak to the valley. I personally choose … the slower version. Dear Paul, I have since managed to repress just how many hours we needed to get back down to the valley. But it is to your merit, that this day will remain a very special one in my memory, despite all the exertions. I would like to thank you for this amazing experience, allowing me to get an insight into your work and the patience and care you showed getting me back down from that mountain unscathed. Next time we meet, can we stick to coffee and cakes?!

Paul Sürth‘s Zillertal Calendar with its‘ spectacular images is already a collector’s item. It can be purchased from the Mayrhofen Tourist Board as well as many other outlets. www.paul-suerth.at

M a g i s c h e

M o m e n t e Z i l l e r t a l p a n o r a m a

Pictures at sundown Those who want to experience the summits in the evening and take atmospheric shots in the warm light of the setting sun, but don’t

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Ready to fire: Ben Burnett shooting sharp pictures.

Photo Fun on the Harakiri On a 78 degree incline, Benjamin “Ben“ Burnett adjusts his sights to his prey, focuses, then fires. Every Friday from one to three he is lying in wait on the steepest slope in the Zillertal Valley. 52

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ut there’s no need to worry. When Ben pulls the trigger no blood is lost and his prey comes to no harm – even after a successful shot. Because Ben’s joy and passion is to take great pictures which can be taken home as a trophy by the skiers and snowboarders that conquer the Harakiri slope. Not only is photographic skill demanded here, but a healthy portion of balance. After all, Ben has to move along the edge of this 400 metre long, extremely steep slope with ski boots on his feet. He doesn’t need a look-out post though, because he likes to take pictures from all angles: “I have my

favourite positions. It is important that the incline is well portrayed in the photos. I like to stand at the edge of the piste, behind a crash barrier – a protective fence. From there I have not only fabulous views of the slope and a few trees to act as contrast in the background, but I’m spared having to jump out of the way when someone crashes because I’m protected by the safety fence!“

Caught between horror and laughter Logical, when you consider that between one and two hundred people whizz past him during the two hour photo shoot. “Some of


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Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com, Mayrhofner Bergbahnen, Benjamin Burnett

It’s awesomely steep on the Harakiri. Everyone gets down, it’s just “How”, which depends on differences in body position, technique and dignity.

them look pretty serious. Others, who have overestimated their ability, have a look of sheer horror on their faces. But most are grinning from ear to ear – even if they end up sliding down the whole slope on their backsides instead of on the skis or board they intended to use in the first place“, says Ben, who has never taken a tumble – even on his four year old skis with no edges to speak of. But he does admit: “I didn’t feel too confident on one of my first attempts – I had my camera with me to take photographs. A Canon 40d, and it wouldn’t have done it any good at all had I fallen on it!“ Whilst recalling this moment somewhat self depreciatively, he remembers another tragically comical situation that still makes him laugh: “The key player: A snowboarder who was a little too sure of himself was obviously leading a group of friends. The people had stopped on the edge and he wanted to spray them with snow as he approached them on a turn. Unfortunately, he slipped on an icy patch and ended up flying down the entire Harakiri in the horizontal position – much

to the amusement of his friends who were howling with laughter and who all later managed to ski down without falling over once!“ Respect and wicked delight go hand in hand down the Harakiri ... Serious injury, however, is not part of the agenda – the Harakiri commands and is given the necessary respect. Combined with the correct assessment of personal ability, the only injury that can’t be entirely ruled out is maybe picking up a few bruises.

Bird’s eye view The lifts provide the best vantage point for watching all the Harakiri action: “Many people shout out to me from there and strike a pose“, says Ben. The photographer was once in a very unfortunate position: “I was standing in the middle of the piste when a skier above me slipped. I had no chance to escape in the steep terrain and ended up joining the crash pilot on a synchronised slide down to the bottom of the piste. I’m sure it looked really funny“. It’s a shame, really, that no one took a picture.

Benjamin Burnett British born in 1983, he first stood on skis at the age of two. Although he gave up then after only three hours of fun in the snow, preferring to spend the rest of his winter holiday at kindergarten, he has since developed a real passion for skiing. This is so pronounced that he now lives in Tyrol and has established from there the fastest growing online ski community in Europe: www.downdays. eu. Fortunately, Ben still has the time to put his eagle photographic eye to work in Mayrhofen!

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Skiing on great snow in the mornings, an extended lunch break to make the most of a spot of sunbathing and jogging through the village in the afternoons – ski holidays of a different kind.

Springtime ski fun

Pictures: Mayrhofen, www.norbert-freudenthaler.com

Get out of those thick jackets and into pure ski pleasure. When the first flowers are blooming down in the valley, thermal underwear can be safely left behind in your suitcase. Don’t forget your sunglasses, though.

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he time comes between mid-March and April. An idyllic period that is a perfect compromise between summer and winter“, rave Nick and Aisha from Edinburgh. For eight years now they have been coming to Mayrhofen to relax for a whole week – even though they are actually more on the go here than they normally would be at home. “While Aisha has a lie in after enjoying one of the great Snowbombing concerts of the previous evening, I make the most of great winter conditions: The pistes are perfectly groomed, the snow is good and skiing is a real treat“, says Nick. “Around noon we meet up to chill out in the sun“, adds his wife. “We usually enjoy catching some rays at the Igloos on Mount Ahorn, where DJ’s provide relaxing background music.“ In the afternoon she too gets in the skiing mood and takes off to explore the extensive slopes on Mount Ahorn and the sporty down hills on Mount Penken. “Skiing on the firn slopes is great fun. I even find the Harakiri, with a gradient of 78 per cent, inviting in these conditions.“

daring and try out lots of new tricks, which is exciting to watch for us onlookers. And I’m not completely averse to a spot of springtime flirting, either“, grins Bernadette, firmly tongue in cheek.

Only in springtime The days are long enough now to enjoy a bike ride after a day on the slopes, or just relaxing down in the valley with a cup of coffee or a refreshing ice cream. And all that wearing a T-shirt, mind you. Because, as you make your descent to the valley in the gondola, temperatures climb inexorably upwards. “We’re going to slip into our running shoes and take a jog down the high street“, Bernadette and Nina are already making plans for the afternoon. “Then we can decide which

“ Skiing on the firn slopes is great fun. I even find the Harakiri inviting in these conditions.“

Fotos: Mayrhofen

Cheeky flirts on the slopes “After a long winter I am so hungry for sun that I simply can’t get enough of the warmth and light“, says Bernadette, who has come to Mayrhofen with her friend, Nina. “A holiday in the fresh air is just the ticket.“ Daily visits to the Vans Penken Park are always on the agenda for these two. “It seems to be particularly busy here in spring“, gushes Nina. “Falls don’t hurt as much in the soft snow, which means that the riders are more

bar we are going to visit this evening – that’s our kind of après-ski.“ “These contrasts make a spring ski holiday really special“, agree Aisha and Nick. After they have indulged in only a small lunchtime snack, they enjoy getting all dressed up for a lovely evening meal in a nearby gourmet restaurant. That’s what real holidays are made of!

ountain springtime: M from A to Z

A A wake! The pistes are much better at 09:05 hrs than at 15.55 hrs. B Brown – top up that tan C Chill out in the sun D Down jackets can be left at home E Everyone loves to take a good picture F Fun park fun G Great, great, great H Harakiri run (falls hurt less and less) I Igloo visit at the WhiteLounge J Jogging in the valley K Knee deep snow in brilliant sunshine L Lounging in the sun instead of by the fireplace M Mmmmm – time for lunch! N Never think about the day ending O Of course the sun is shining P Par excellence Q Quality spring water R Realms of possibility (unlimited) S Snow ball fight (loads more fun in the soft snow) T Time to dream U Untracked virgin slopes V Very flirty – it’s springtime after all! W Waxing (your sports gear) X X’tasy on the slopes! Y Yoga session on the mountain Z Zzzzzzzzz (at best on a sun lounger)!

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Respectful Young Gun Freeski pro, Roman Rohrmoser, speaking on word rap in HÖHENLUFT about the feeling of freedom on the peak of a mountain, respect for nature and his secret dream job.

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not. And everyone er you want it to or eth wh , me co ll wi That dants also have a sure that our descen can contribute to en beautiful future. Winter ppy when it’s year for me. I am ha The best time of the m November as my winters last fro finally over, though, through to May.

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Favourite places h, Alaska and the d Mayrhofen/Hippac The mountains aroun Indian Ocean.

Passions d my girlfriend , surfing, climbing an Mountains, hunting Secret dream job d hunter Alpine dairyman an st to me What means the mo enings after every y unscathed in the ev lle va the to g nin tur Re my friends. the mountains with day that I spend on

Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com, Lukas Scheiber, Michael Neumann

Mac Book Pro

“ by Metallica “Whiskey in the Jar

Fear

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Höhenluft

Roman Rohrmoser as one would expect of a real Tyrolean – has been skiing since the age of two. Now 25, he belongs to the ranks of the world’s best freeskiers. Asked about his greatest successes, this gifted man from the Zillertal Valley doesn’t talk about his podium finishes, but of carving new trails in the slopes of Alaska. www.roman-rohrmoser.com


The “Anklöpfer“ are as much an integral part of the Advent period in Mayrhofen as the Christmas tree on Christmas Eve. Pictures may say more than words, but the atmosphere in people’s homes when they arrive and perform cannot be imitated 1:1 with either words or images. You only get the goose bump effect when you experience it live!

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Höhenluft

Yesterday, today, tomorrow – tradition lives on Carol singers, people in masquerade spreading New Year wishes, “Grass bell ringers“: so many different purposes and guises of these traditional figures, but all with one thing in common: They are preserving the traditions of the Zillertal Valley.

Picture: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com

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very Thursday in Advent, Andy Sporer and three of his friends decorate their hats with a sprig of fir, tie a red scarf around their necks, slip on their lederhosen, traditional grey, woollen “Tuxer” jackets and Zillertal handmade slippers to make their way from house to house. Guitar, double bass and a harmonica provide the musical accompaniment; their lanterns bringing light to the darkened rooms. Only the flickering of the candles on the Advent ring can be heard in the background, as these four are invited to enter from the cold, winter night. And suddenly there is silence. The men, known in these parts as “Anklöpfer“ sing carol songs, in harmony, sometimes even adding a yodel or two. These songs have been sung by their grandparents and their grandparents in turn. There are countless melodies and lyrics in local dialect, of which the Glocken Yodeller and the Mettenn Yodeller are probably the best known. “The songs are about waiting for Christ’s birth“, explains music school teacher, Andy Sporer. Every year, before they leave they discuss and briefly practice the songs they are going to sing. “This custom of ‘Anklöpfeln‘ gives people a real feeling of Christmas in the midst of all the hectic preparations. Because these days we often forget to stop and think about what this is actually all about.“ Sometimes, even tears are shed when the “Anklöpfer“ perform – tears of gratitude be-

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pfler e the Anklö k li , rs e id Only ins relied on. ? No way! es can be o h s h Moon boots ic h ppers ww oggeln“ sli winter, kno D t “ s e r p le e a e rt d in the Zille ed to make The felt us and dry. feet warm ir e th s p e ke

Andy Sporer This 38 year old teacher at the Zillertal County Music School and father of two grew up in Zillertal and lives in Mayrhofen. He has a close bond with local customs and teaches the “Anklöpfel“ songs to not only his daughters but his students too, ensuring that this tradition is passed on to the next generation. In spring Andy organises walks with music in and around the side valleys; in summer he hosts the Tyrolean folk evening held at the Europahaus in Mayrhofen.

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cause loved ones are together for once, or because someone is missing. This soon turns to laughter, though, when everyone sits down for some welcome refreshments after the songs and stories are over. Only after the final song has been sung do people clap, otherwise the atmosphere would be spoiled. “We visit three to four houses in the course of a Thursday evening. Once I am there and everything is quiet and I see the families, I know exactly why I do this. It is just so positive to do something good for others, maintaining an old custom and keeping your own Christmas thoughts alive“, says Andy. His reward is the look in the people’s eyes and the incredible sense of reflection that prevails during the 30 minute performance. “We don’t charge for what we do, but sometimes it can’t be avoided that people want to make a contribution. On our own initiative, we donate the money to one of the villages in the Zillertal Valley and ask that it is given to benefit someone in need. This has resulted in, for example, an old lady who lives alone being given enough firewood to heat her home for a whole winter. Something that she otherwise would never have been able to afford.


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If two locals are standing face to face and, because they are so heavily disguised, don’t realise who they are “Wishing a happy New Year” to, they are probably out and about as “Perchten”.

These 19 young men (if you look closely, you will see that two are dressed as milkmaids) are proof that these traditions – in this case Grasausläuten (grass bell ringers) – are upheld by the youth of today.

Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com, Archiv

Sweet or sour It was the poor people mainly that went from house to house disguised from head to toe as “Perchten” to wish a “Happy New Year” to the locals and be given food in return. According to tradition, if lots of Perchten turned out the following year would be a happy one, as Perchten banished evil spirits. Today, just like back then, local children dress up as “Pinggerl perchten“ (mini Perchten) and knock on the locals doors in disguise in the afternoons to collect sweets. Late afternoon the “Krapf perchten“ (pancake Perchten) are out and about in anticipation of a local traditional dish of savoury pancakes. As soon as it gets dark, the hours of “Schnapps Perchten” have arrived. Their goal is to be given a “Sweet” (liqueur) or “Sour” (schnapps). Andy, too, has visited houses dressed as a Schanpps Perchte, but he comments, tongue in cheek: “You can’t do that for long, otherwise you will become an alcoholic!“ To avoid detection, the Perchten even conceal their hands and don’t take their masks off whilst eating or drinking. It is not until midnight, when the Schnapps Per-

chten all meet in a guest house, that they take their masks off and reveal their identity. “Some are actually more attractive in disguise, than not“, laughs Andy.

Hearing the grass grow When the long winter nights start to get a little shorter, the time of the “Grass bell ringers” has arrived. Young lads walk through the fields ringing bells, to ensure that lush grass grows – valuable fodder for the farm animals. It’s a way of giving nature a helping hand and what a local saying that has been around since the 15th century is based on “Listen to the grass grow“. Unlike the Perchten and the Anklöpfler, this tradition has no fixed date – it generally takes place, however, after Easter Sunday. As strange as it may seem in the 21st century, Perchten banishing evil spirits or ringing bells to make the grass grow – something that is characteristic of the rural culture in the Zillertal Valley is kept alive by these traditions. These customs originate from an era when nature and its’ laws played a huge role. By practising these traditions today, old values live on.

What? Custom: noun: a traditional and widely accepted way of behaving or doing something that is specific to a particular society, place or time. Doggeln: Specially prepared felt shoes for walking in the snow. Nowadays often made with a rubber sole, they used to be made purely from felt. Maschkera: Masquerade Pinggerl: Sack, bag stad: calm Tuxer Janker: grey felt jacket, characteristic to the Zillertal Valley, very weatherproof

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Austria’s largest cable car has gained yet another attraction with a sophisticated concept: Architect Antonius Lanzinger

Architectural Freedom As of this coming winter season, the top station of the Ahorn lifts will integrate a café, viewing platform, ski depot, seminar rooms, garages and workshops. 62

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he mountains around Mayrhofen/Hippach are often described as striking, challenging, mystical, immovable and even charming – just as mountains should be. Four years ago the spectacular Ahorn lifts were built on Mayrhofen’s local Mount Ahorn. A revolutionary project, which resulted in Austria’s largest cable car. Designed by the Innsbruck architect, Antonius Lanzinger from the M9-Architecttural Company, the base and top stations have won a number of awards “because of the specific use of concrete in construction and the high quality workmanship“, as well as showing a

skilful interplay between architecture and nature. What remained was the old top station of the lifts, including a garage for piste grooming machinery and workshops. Also, a decision that needed to be made on what purpose these buildings should serve in future. The Mayr­hofen Lift Company decided to collaborate again with the M9-Architects – the result of that decision can be admired at the start of the 2010/11 winter season.

Unique in the Zillertal Valley “Our proposal wasn’t just a technical solution


Höhenluft

Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com, www-norbert-freudenthaler.com, M9-Architekten M9-Architects Pictures:

Insight into a breathtaking project: The long, slender building with large glass areas – named Freedom – serves, amongst other things, as a weather proof viewing platform over the surrounding mountains.

with garages and workshops, we also wanted to include facilities for guests“, said Antonius Lanzinger. They decided to completely do away with the existing building and combine a garage for piste machinery, storage rooms and workshops in a closed auxiliary building. The space below the lift station facing south west is to be a general meeting place – a place where special things will happen in future. Lanzinger: “Our proposal is to build a very slim line building on top of the underground garages and workshops. This will include not only a ski depot and hire, but a multi-functional area that has been given the name “Freedom” and will be the venue for a whole host of interesting attractions. As far as I am aware, a project in this form has never been undertaken in the Zillertal Valley.“ The Mayrhofen Lift Company immediately recognized how such a proposal would bene­fit not only themselves, but also visiting guests. In addition to a café, it was decided that rooms should also be provided for small, exclusive events and seminars in this unique environment.

Technology and Nature The extension is intended to make an impact with its‘ simplicity. In keeping with the top lift station, the materials used include dark grey concrete and black plating, helping the building to integrate more easily into the surrounding natural environment. “What I find most pleasing about this project is that it benefits the lift company’s operational team just as much as visiting guests“, says Lanzinger. Visitors see “The obvious”, namely the lift itself. Moreover, they immediately see the mountains and nature, the reason why they took the journey up Leisure Mountain Ahorn in the first place. There is, of course, much more going on in the background of the workings of a lift company. To ensure that everything runs smoothly, a large team is needed for this giant operation which requires sufficient infrastructure. Thanks to intelligent planning, there is room for everything in the new extension, 80 per cent of which is located underground. Lanzinger: “Technology and nature are on an equal footing here. That is the strength of this building.“

At a glance › O pening at the start of the 2010/11 winter season › Café – Bistro › Shop › Seminar rooms › Viewing platform › Ski depot › Piste machinery garage › Work shops › Diesel storage › Disable access via lift

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The Europahaus – a significant cultural institution and a valuable asset to Mayrhofen – transformed from a traditional building to a mountain gem.

Brilliant Rock Crystal Extraordinary, attractive and bold – the Congress & Events Centre in the middle of Mayrhofen has been enjoying a whole new look since April 2010. Architect Raimund Wulz (Wulz-König Architects) on this miraculous transformation. Congress centre The original Mayrhofen Europa­­­­ haus was opened in 1979. Since then, 20,000 events with 2.7 million visitors have been held there. In order to improve the cultural and educational facilities, renovation work was started in 2008 to create a contemporary events venue, seminar rooms with state of the art technology, 1,200 m² of exhibition areas as well as a restaurant. The Tourist Board is also located here.

Höhenluft: Raimund Wulz, you and your team were entrusted with the modernization of the rather dated Europahaus Event Centre. Raimund Wulz: From the very beginning it was quite clear that the new Europahaus should be a meeting place for all. It symbolizes the contemporary approach the Tourism and holiday region is striving towards. At the same time it is also partly traditional, because it was renovated. In this way, something new has been created out of something old – and has become a part of Mayrhofen’s heritage. Tradition and modern age meet here under one roof and complement each other perfectly. Höhenluft: A traditional building has been

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transformed into a light and appealing, modern building project. Do the two buildings still have anything in common? Raimund Wulz: Even the old Europahaus had a hexagonal, crystalline form. From the very beginning I felt that this related well with the surrounding mountains and their crystal forms such as snow or rock. For this reason the shape of the building was designed around quartz crystal. We felt it was fitting to adopt the hexagonal form take it into a third dimension. Höhenluft: Visitors are confronted by the crystalline theme elsewhere, though. Raimund Wulz: Yes, in the facade. A natural rock crystal doesn’t actually have a consis-


Höhenluft

Pictures: www.norbert-freudenthaler.com, Mayrhofen

Architect Raimund Wulz has skilfully combined tradition with contemporary in the “New Europahaus”. www.architekturhalle.at

tent form, it may have various crystalline inclusions that appear golden, ochre or black. We felt that the yellow glass in the halls could symbolize these inclusions as well as the stars of the European flag. We decided, therefore, to carry on the yellow theme in the facade. The same principle applied when choosing the various surfaces used in the facade – smooth and sand blasted. The crystalline theme can, in fact, be seen in the whole building. Höhenluft: Mayrhofen is well known for its’ contrasts. And the rock crystal is in stark contrast to the surrounding traditional houses in Tyrolean style. How difficult was the pro-

cess of implementing this daring project? Raimund Wulz: In the formative stages there were a number of developmental conflicts between the building committee and our offices. But we worked with visualisation tools and model studies until we found solutions to the problems and common ground. That was a really great process which enabled us to achieve wide acceptance. Furthermore, we were all in agreement that the future should look a little different and that something had to change in the architecture. I think that the Europahaus is a pioneering project. The positive feedback that I hear from the public and visitors clearly shows that we have chosen the right path.

“After all these changes, the Mayrhofen Europahaus offers everything you would expect of a modern seminar and congress centre – and has lost none of its’ original flair. The acoustics in the main hall are excellent and I am already looking forward to performing some great concerts there.“ Folk music star Marc Pircher

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Höhenluft

Imprint

Then – Today

Owner & Publisher: Ferienregion Mayrhofen/Hippach, A-6290 Mayrhofen, www.mayrhofen.at

Changing history

Project management: pro.media kommunikation, A-6020 Innsbruck, Tel. 0043 (0) 512/214004, E-Mail: promedia.innsbruck@

For centuries, Mayrhofen’s ­appearance has been ­characterized by the parish church.

pressezone.at, www.pressezone.at Contributors: Andreas Lackner, MMag. Philipp Jurschitz (Tourist Board Mayrhofen/ Hippach); Mag. (FH) Sarah Krös­bacher, Mag. (FH) Michael Gstrein (Mayrhofner Bergbahnen); Mag. Tanja Lauton (Editorial Director), Mag. (FH) Katharina Glatz (pro.media kommunikation)

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Translation:

uaint farmhouses and luxurious hotels have dominated Mayrhofen’s landscape for decades. Old meets new: The most recent architectural example is the newly completed Europahaus (see pages 64/65). One constant that has remained for centuries, however, is the St. Mary Assumption Parish Church, even though it too hides behind a chequered history. As early as the 14th century, there was a little church in Mayrhofen that was subsequently destroyed by fire. Documentary evidence exists that confirms a church was consecrated in 1511. The oldest document in parish archives dated 1544 speaks of “God’s house of our dear lady in Mairhoff“. Between 1580 and 1590, the chapel was again destroyed by fire, which was followed by a new building in 1590. Two side altars had to be built almost from scratch again 150 years later. In the sixties it had finally become too small for the rapidly growing community. According to plans designed by architect, Prof. Clemens Holzmeister, a new building was constructed within the space of a year and inaugurated on the 14th December 1969. The chancel and last remnants of the old Gothic church couldn’t be saved, unfortunately. Only the inner portal of the tower gives a hint of its’ incredible history. More detailed information can be found under www.pfarremayrhofen.at

Kate Seiringer, Int. Language Services Art direction & graphic design: Markus Anderwald, www.6020.net Photos: DI Norbert Freudenthaler, www.norbert-freudenthaler.com Print: Druckerei Berger, A-3580 Horn

Die Floitenschlag­ staude, Author: Wilhelm E. Hofer published by Berenkamp Verlag.

Pictures: Archiv Mayrhofen, www.norbert-freudenthaler.com

Tyrol’s lady poacher

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In the last issue of Höhenluft a piece was published on the “Floitenschlagstaude – The Floiten Valley Shrub“, Tyrol’s legendary lady poacher. The interest of our readers was so great that we want to take this opportunity to recom­ mend again an interesting book that covers this fascinating story. Author, Wilhelm E. Hofer, delved through archives for years, sifted through deeds and birth records, gathered stories and reports from local hunters and mountain guides before he wrote this gripping account. Available from book stores and the Mayrhofen/Hippach Tourist Board direct.


HaHraarkairkiir–i –thdeieste ste ilesstet Piste im Zille e p 78% Gefälle und pu slope in the Zriltalel.rta 78% incline and pu rer Nervenkitzel: l vall m Hi

er kommen selbstping adrenalin: geübte Skifahrer an Enough to push even expe ihre Grenzen. rienced skiers to th eir limits.

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Tourismusverband Mayrhofen/Hippach Dursterstr. 225, A-6290 Mayrhofen www.mayrhofen.at

Mayrhofner Bergbahnen AG Hauptstr. 472, A-6290 Mayrhofen www.mayrhofner-bergbahnen.com

Tel.: 0043 (0) 5285/67 60-0 Fax: 0043 (0) 5285/67 60-33

Tel.: 0043 (0) 5285/62 277 Fax: 0043 (0) 5285/62 277-161

info@mayrhofen.at

info@mayrhofner-bergbahnen.com


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