2013 Mazama Annual

MAZAMA 2013

MAZAMA | Volume XCV, Number 13

MAZAMA

The Annual Journal of the Mazamas

Vol. XCV, No. 13

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December 2013

MISSION

VALUES

The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

Safety is our primary responsibility in all education and outdoor activities. Training, risk management and incident reporting are critical supporting elements.

Education—Training, experience and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment and safety in the mountains. Studying, seeking and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.

VISION

Volunteerism—Volunteers are the driving force in everything we do. Teamwork, collaboration and generosity of spirit are the essence of who we are.

Everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains.

Community—Camaraderie, friendship and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and collaborate with those who share our goals.

Competence—All leaders, committee members, staff,

volunteers and participants should possess the knowledge, skills, abilities and judgment required of their roles.

Credibility—We are trusted by the community in mountaineering matters. We are relied upon for information based on best practices and experience.

Stewardship—We conserve the mountain environment.

We protect our history and archives and sustain a healthy organization.

Nesika Klatawa Sahale

Matt Sundling climbing Bugaboo Spire in the Bugaboos.

Photo: Andrew Holman

Chinook jargon for “We Climb High” © Mazamas® 2013. All rights reserved. • 527 SE 43rd, Portland, OR 97215

MAZAMA Table of Contents President’s Report, Doug Couch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Feature Articles Scaling the Devil’s Thumb, Katie Mills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Illumination Rock—Celebrating 100 Years of Mazama Exploration, Ric Conrad . . . . 8 Successfully Summiting Mt. Blanc, Lisa Brady . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Continued Challenge of Middle Peak, John Frieh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Wild Side of Mt. Hood, Glenn Widener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Climbing Aconcagua, Matt Carter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Ski and Climbing Traverse of Norway’s Jotunheimen, Keith Daellenbach . . . . . . . . 20 A Climbing Comedy of Errors, Suresh Singh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 So, You Would Like to Write a Hiking Guide? Sonia Buist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Vignettes from the Laos and Vietnam Outing, Kate Evans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Rephotographing Glaciers in the American West, Hassan Basagic . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Annual Reports Outings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Committee Reports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Executive Director’s Report . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Volunteer Manager’s Report . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Mazama Membership Report . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Mazama Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Treasurer’s Report . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Fiscal Year 2012-2013 Consolidated Budget Report . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Mazama 2013 Awards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Official Mazama Climbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Official Mazama Trail Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 In Memoriam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

Editor-in-Chief: Anna Browne Co-Editors: Rick Craycraft Jack Grauer Barry Maletzky Kristie Perry Ed Rei David Stein Photo Editors: Bob Breivogel Andrew Holman Al Papesh Layout and Design: Sarah Bradham

2012– 2013

Executive Council

Doug Couch president Bronson Potter vice president Meg Goldberg secretary Terry Donahe, treasurer Judith Baker Dyanne Foster Sojo Hendrix Bill McLoughlin Joan Zuber

Front cover: John Frieh belaying Daniel Harro up the double cornices high on Middle Peak. Photo Credit: Daniel Harro.

Inside Front Cover: Cigdem Milobinski on Karate Crack at Smith Rock. Photo: Vaqas Malik.

Inside Back Cover: Roger Wong above Ladd Glacier.

Photo: Al Papesh.

Back cover: High camp on Glacier Peak. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Left: A happy climber on the summit of Mt. Thielsen.

Photo: Alicia Imbody.

President’s Report

by Doug Couch

2013 was a good year for the Mazamas. Our membership is growing, our finances are stable, and as this Annual’s committee reports spell out in detail, our volunteers have delivered another outstanding year of schools, climbs, outings, hikes and other activities. The lodge received some timely maintenance and upgrading; the Mazama Mountaineering Center buzzes with meetings, classes, programs and special events. Supporting committees have worked in the background to deliver high-quality publications, assemble the annual budget, review official policies, recruit a full slate of Executive Council candidates and many other activities.

In addition, the staff at the MMC has grown in number and specialization to support increasing our membership, improve the way we recruit and use our volunteers and connect with our local and national communities more effectively. Lee Davis discusses this dimension of progress in his Executive Director’s report.

So, what does that leave for me to report on? I can note all that stability and progress is never automatic or a good predictor of what is to come. The world around us changes constantly and only planning and the ability to adjust to new circumstances allow us to continue moving forward.

When you review the bylaws that were adopted last year you see that “The affairs of the Mazamas shall be controlled and managed by a board of nine directors, who shall be known as the Executive Council, and who shall have the power to conduct the general business of the Mazamas….”

Approaching our 120th year, the complexity of those affairs required the council to lean on the wisdom of our membership. And I can expect the need for your participation in controlling and managing Mazama affairs to increase. Below are three areas that council worked on last year and that will require future assistance from our membership.

Timberline Mountain Bike Park In December 2012 we were asked to join an appeal to reverse the United States Forest Service approval of the plan to build a downhill mountain bike park through the Timberline ski area. We agreed that the decision was important enough to ask for a second look at some of the technical issues

to our members for their thoughts supporting the approval. The approval on how best to evaluate this project was sustained and in February 2013 to assure it is financially prudent and the Mazamas was asked to join a consistent with our values. lawsuit challenging construction of The sno-park adjacent to the mountain bike park. The council reviewed the extensive history leading up to the USFS’s decision to allow this project. We then invited comments from our members, our committees and the wider interested community at our March meeting before we decided not to join a legal challenge to the project.

At the time of the decision, I stated that not fighting the project was different from ignoring it.

Part of the permit that Timberline requested covered cleanup work Executive Council. Back Row: Judith Baker, Joan Zuber, Meg from construction of the Goldberg, Dyanne Foster. Front Row: Bronson Potter, Sojo Hendrix, Jeff Flood ski lift, work Terry Donahe, Doug Couch. Missing: Bill McLoughlin. that should have been done years ago. Somehow, overODOT’s maintenance station across sight of the ski lift construction let from Timberline Road has become cleanup slip by. We don’t want that increasingly congested during the error to happen again. Therefore, the winter. Meanwhile, highway traffic Mazamas needs to remain involved has increased in speed and volume, with the planning, construction and making the dash across Highway 26 oversight of this facility as part of our more dangerous for those visiting our responsibility as stakeholders on Mt. lodge. The Lodge Committee has Hood and as partners with the USFS proposed constructing a parking lot and Timberline on many other issues. on the service road below the lodge Parking Lot at Mazama Lodge to accommodate 40 vehicles. This We have been working with the would require expanding our lease Lodge Committee to plan a parking from the Forest Service, doing signifilot below our lodge in Governcant excavation into the hillside and ment Camp. This will be another assuming maintenance of the lot if long-term commitment in terms of Mazama members are the exclusive funding and development. I expect users. Initial estimates for surveying, the incoming council will again look

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President’s Report, continued from previous page planning and constructing the lot are around $150,000.

We don’t foresee increased lodge revenue as a result of a parking lot. We do see ongoing expenses to keep it clear of snow during the months we would use it the most. And we look at a capital cost that exceeds our annual contribution from the Mazamas Foundation and is about equal to what we collect in dues in an entire year. This would be a significant investment for the Mazamas without an obvious financial payback.

None of which means the council doesn’t like the idea. But as managers of Mazama affairs, future Executive Councils will approach it in careful stages and look for options to share the costs with other mountain stakeholders who might end up benefiting by this parking lot.

Some of those careful steps forward will be coming in 2014 and membership ideas will be important.

Smith Rock Property The third major project is the opportunity to acquire property at Smith Rock. The Executive Council and the Mazamas Foundation have worked with a member who was ready to sell an attrac-

tively located lot adjacent to Smith Rock State Park. We have been considering a project that meets his financial needs, the resources of the Mazamas Foundation and the objectives of the organization.

In August we invited the entire membership to learn about and comment on the proposal. As future councils move forward carefully, I am sure they will look to the general membership for advice and guidance at each major step.

Our schools make many trips to Smith Rock; our members have pioneered and climbed routes there for 50 years. In recent years, no part of climbing has attracted more participants than rock climbing, and many of those new climbers are making the transition to mountaineering through our range of schools and activities.

As with the parking lot project, this is a significant investment of the funds held by the Mazamas Foundation. Their board members have analyzed the opportunity and are willing to accept the purchase as a wise investment because it is very likely the property at Smith could be resold at a profit should our organization not see a way to develop it that at least paid for

A Basic Climbing Education Program student enjoying the thrill of self-arrest practice. Photo: Josh Lockerby.

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upkeep and operation. Unlike expanding our Forest Service lease at Mazama Lodge for a parking lot, this would be property the foundation owned and could place back into the real estate market without harming its financial resources.

Please take an active part in the future of our organization by watching these ongoing issues and sharing your thoughts.

And don’t hesitate to join in when other issues present themselves to you or to our organization. Since 1894 the Mazamas has built a tradition of volunteers seeing work that needed to be done, figuring out the best approaches to accomplishing it and organizing the people who could finally get it done. That includes stepping up to join the Executive Council and help “conduct the general business of the Mazamas.”

It has been my privilege to serve with an Executive Council willing to tackle some of the hard decisions in our monthly meetings, to look for your guidance on handling others and to recognize when final decisions have to be carried into the future. This continuity connects us with our history and with future members of this great organization.

Scaling the Devil’s Thumb

by Katie Mills

“Stay Humble, Get Stoked” accompanied the last weather update from John Frieh. It was Thursday morning, Aug. 10, 48 hours before our planned departure. Just two days prior we had each booked our flights, costing a small fortune or equivalent number of airline miles. We had faith in John; he’s pulled off the “smash and grab” weekend employees to work. Once we checked in and found our seats on the plane, the lack of sleep began to set in and the tone was muted, the adventure only beginning.

Good weather is an anomaly in a region notorious for weeks without sunshine and sometimes record precipitation. Even the locals were buzzing about how beautiful it was. Our flight made two stops on the way up the Alaskan coast, in Ketchikan and Wrangell. As the sun rose it became evident the forecast was holding—blue skies. Everything felt surreal. I’d never been to Alaska so peeking out the airplane window at the gargantuan amount of wilderness was amazing. The last hop to Petersburg was so short the pilot didn’t bother to climb above a few thousand feet. Instead he wove the 737 like a fighter jet over

Above: Todd Eddie on the summit of the Devil’s Thumb. Photo: Todd Eddie.

numerous times before. John, Brad Farra, Todd Eddie and I were to leave Portland in the early morning Saturday and be standing on the glacier by that afternoon—in the sunshine, we hoped. Otherwise it would go down as the most expensive snow-camping retreat on record.

The initial energy of getting to the airport at 4 a.m. was quickly dashed as we arrived to find a long line in front of closed ticket counters; we had beaten the Alaska

the Wrangell Narrows, squeezed between the deep fjords of the mainland and the Mitkof Island peaks. On the northern end of this island lay a small fishing town, our jumping-off point for the Stikine Ice Cap. We deplaned at Petersburg onto the tarmac and into bright sunshine.

The terminal building was a tiny shack, unable to contain the crowd of passengers waiting to board the plane we had just left. There to meet us was Dieter Klose, the “steward of the Stikine.” He is a local legend who has been living and climbing in Petersburg for decades. Dieter climbed the high point on the Northwest Face of the Devils Thumb, a yetunclimbed face that the American Alpine Journal describes as one of the last unsolved problems in North American alpinism. John arranged for him to pick us up so we could catch a ride into town and get provisions. I was nervous about meeting him as Todd had already pointed out how obnoxious my outfit was.

He thought I looked like I was going to the mall for some shopping and a latte, and why the hell did I have to bring a polka-dotted roller bag?

Dieter’s ride is a weathered cargo van that you’d expect a climber to have.

He’s smoking, as you’d expect an old-school climbing legend would be. We find our bags and pile into the back of the van.

We dropped Dieter off at his place before borrowing his van to wander about town. We stayed long enough to see his modest cabin situated right on the sound with a panoramic view to the north where a prominent spire with impossibly vertical walls of rock bisects the horizon. We now know why it deserves the name Devils Thumb. It’s distant and small from here but its steep profile and reputation stirs awe and amazement.

We piled back into the van and head “downtown.” Petersburg is one of those sleepy drinking towns with a fishing problem. It has maybe two traffic lights, but there is some tourism and we find a coffee shop continued on next page

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Devil’s Thumb, continued from previous page and a food cart. We enjoyed lunch outside, taking in the sunshine, then headed back to the airport, anxious to catch what would become a highlight of the trip: our helicopter flight.

We arrived at Temsco Helicopters before our pilot, Wally. His assistant and our leader, John, knew the routine. We weighed bags and changed into climbing boots. Wally casually arrived with a coffee in hand and walked us through the helicopter safety features and disaster planning. “If we crash and I’m incapacitated, remove this box from the flight console and activate the emergency transponder beacon like this.” The information goes in one ear and out the other because my adrenaline was already ramped up. We make two trips, two people at a time. I had never ridden in a helicopter before.

Thirty seconds after liftoff, as we rise above the bay, I see a whale breaching! We head out toward the Devils Thumb. You can see it from town as it is constantly in view. Crossing over a ridge and dropping into a feature known as the Witch’s Bowl was as exhilarating as riding a roller coaster even though you’re cruising at the same elevation. Wally set the helicopter down and we walked 20 feet to set up base camp then ran out to do a quick survey of our approach. It looked fine so we didn’t do too much reconnoitering, just headed back to camp to pack and repack our packs for our summit attempt. We were in bed by 8 p.m.

At 2 a.m. the alarm wakens us, blasting obnoxiously Eminem’s “Lose Yourself,” my self-proclaimed theme of this climb.

The chorus is, “You only get one shot.”

With a three-day weekend instead of three weeks to climb it, that is what we have. We departed camp by 3 a.m. and headed west to the opposite side of the massif. Our objective was the Witch’s Tit that requires

a complete traverse from our base camp on the relative safety of the Baird Glacier near the east ridge.

We headed down boulder fields and scree then came to a steep snow descent. Down-climbing steep snow with one tool in the dark is not my favorite thing. We reach the glacier below and begin navigating crevasses, looking for an easy way to cross a steep rock buttress blocking our path. We come to a single precarious snow bridge across a large moat that is our only likely passage. When John eyes this single, seemingly small obstacle to overcome, his experience immediately recognized it as a potential problem; he said this bridge probably won’t be here tonight and we should consider another possibility. Todd took off his crampons and scrambled up some 5th-class rock slabs to investigate an alternative to the glacier. What he found was not promising: a football-field expanse of steep, wet, sandy slabs threatened by a large serac above. Not only would this mean tenuous and slow movement, in the afternoon it would be downright treacherous to cross under. It’s 5 a.m. by now and we aren’t even halfway to the base of the route.

We’re at an impasse.

We took a vote. Todd thought he saw a line from his vantage that could go through the glacier, but it is circuitous and would be slow going, plus it risks further shut-down. He thought we should continue, though. Brad thought we should cut our losses, regroup and go climb the Devil’s Thumb by its East Ridge, one of the 50 Classic Climbs of America by Roper & Steck. John’s injury from a previous trip to Alaska is aggravating him and he has decided to bow out at the risk of slowing 6

the party. That means it’s up to me! I am a Pisces and cannot make decisions! Here we are in Alaska with only a single day to climb and we had better make it count. I reason that the glacier seems really broken up, there are countless crevasses to stop us and a gully full of seracs waiting to fall on us. All of this doesn’t sound too tempting.

We though we’d be much farther along than we are now. I decide rather than shooting for an unknown, and possibly achieving nothing, we should bag Devils Thumb by a route we know works. I make the call, the guys agree and we immediately mobilize. I ran back up that steep snow slope the fastest I have ever climbed anything, driven by the desire to make up lost time and salvage our trip.

We reached the base of the Devils Thumb at 6:30 a.m. The full Alaskan daylight at this hour made it seem much later than it was. We were so intent on getting to the base as fast as possible we neglected to detour to the tent to pick up the Devils Thumb route description.

Despite this, we chose a line and picked out a spot where we could cross the moat.

Brad charged up, trailing two ropes so Todd and I could follow simultaneously.

The next two pitches were smeary granite 5.8. Brad had to deal with rope drag so bad he could barely pull them. My rope got caught on horns so Todd had to climb over and free it. Todd’s still climbing in his mountaineering boots, having expected more moderate terrain. Our chances for success seemed to be fading fast. All this was just to get us onto a lower ridge to give

us access to the upper mountain. From this ridge we discovered we could scramble up to the mountain proper leaving our boots, crampons and tools behind. The route looked snow-free!

From here the ridge above was guarded by two buttresses, too large to be called gendarmes, each several pitches tall. Brad volunteered to lead. We were going to traverse across these loose, sandy, exposed ledges for a ways, then scramble up some 4th-class-looking stuff to a point much higher on the ridge, bypassing the two monster towers. Todd agreed, noting Beckey’s first ascent bypassed this entire section of the ridge because a snow ridge gave them access higher. We had to traverse our way across some death scree and loose rock to get to the route, where we reached the 4th-class slabs. From here Brad shot ahead. “Let me know when you want to simul-climb,” he called. The slabs become 5th-class and as we climb higher, the exposure sets in. We move along until I tree myself, unable to climb up or down. Todd throws me a rope (a reccurring theme of many climbs), and we simul-climb up to find Brad sunning himself while waiting for us. Brad then tied into the rope and forged upward. The terrain became moderate again but when you are tied to Brad, you have to climb as fast as possible to keep up with him, so I don’t ask to untie. Left to my own devices I might dawdle.

We reached the ridge and refuel while Brad racks up. From here we could see the ridge all the way to the summit. This is it,

no more route-finding, just shut-up and go! The climbing is moderate for a pitch or two until we come to the steep pinnacle, which various parties have found different ways to navigate. A horizontal picket, once a deadman in the snow that is no longer there, hung ominously from its hex backup where a previous party had bailed.

Brad tried to go over the gendarme but found it too difficult, backed down and went for a traverse off the north face of the ridge. After a short section of snowcovered ledge, the face dropped away thousands of feet to a stunning expanse of glaciers, icefalls, cliffs and pure Alaskan gnar. I know it’s not easy because Brad plugs in pro spaced like a normal human would place it. “Watch me,” Brad says as he navigated the maze of inconsistent cracks. This was the crux, but he made it with no problem and soon Todd and I are on belay. After bypassing the gendarme we are back on the ridge in the sun. The last several hundred feet of the climb was a glorious knife-edged ridge with 360-degree views of the amazing Stikine Glacier. I think we were all climbing with silly grins on our faces.

Finally we reached a point on the ridge where nothing else was higher. It was a perfect seat, big enough for one behind.

All three of us screamed “WE DID IT!” down to the glacier below and took turns straddling the summit. We were rewarded with some whooping and hollering back from John and another couple who had returned from climbing the Cat’s Ears.

On our left, the northwest face of the thumb drops away more than 6,500 feet, one of the largest rock walls in North America. To the south, we see our camp far off in the distance.

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Now there is the matter of getting down. We accomplished several rappels, backing up each with tat and nuts because the rap stations were so seldom used they were crumbling apart. Brad went down first and found the next station, then Todd and I would simul-rap together to save time. After the last rappel from the upper mountain, the sun set as we traversed the sandy ledges retracing our steps. I didn’t mind because the Perseid meteor shower was blazing and I was delighted by all the shooting stars. As Todd and I waited at one of the final raps in the dark, I saw a meteor and said “Look Todd, did you see that one?” “I can’t see a thing, I’m trying to sleep,” Todd would reply in dispassionate fashion. We victoriously returned to camp at midnight to celebrate with a hot meal.

The next morning a party that climbed the Cat’s Ears on Friday came by to congratulate us and chat. They had heard us on the summit and were surprised to find that they weren’t alone. The helicopter picked us up at 9 a.m. the next morning and we were able to change to an earlier return flight home to Portland at 11 a.m. According to the internet (so it must be true), I am the third woman to have ever summited Devils Thumb. I’m sure Todd is the first vegan and Brad is the first chiropractor. I am so thankful to John for his mentoring and guidance and for opening this entirely new unexplored world of climbing to me. I am equally thankful to the Mazamas for helping us achieve this surreal and amazing summit.

From left to right: View of the Devil’s Thumb from basecamp after being dropped off by helicopter. Photo: Katie Mills.

Katie Mills on the summit ridge. Photo: Todd Eddie.

View of the Devil’s Thumb Massif from the helicopter.

Photo: Katie Mills.

Feature Articles

Illumination Rock—Celebrating 100 Years of Mazama Exploration

by Ric Conrad

Gary Leech, a Government Camp resident, started climbing Mt. Hood in the summer of 1933. During his early ascents of the South Side route, he spied a mammoth formation of andesite to the west, rising more than 500 feet above the surrounding ice fields. Zigzag Glacier, on the mountain’s southwestern flank, flows past Illumination Rock’s southern base. Mighty Reid Glacier slowly carves away at her northern wall. The rock stands alone, a colossal fin of stone blocks running east to west with sheer faces and a narrow summit ridge.

Leech learned this impressive formation was called Illumination Rock, and its summit was 9,543 feet above sea level. It received its name in the summer of 1887, when William Steel and other members of the Oregon Alpine Club illuminated “red fire” from the site. That evening’s display was seen from downtown Portland.

The first ascent of this iconic landmark occurred in 1913, when Ray Conway made an uneventful scramble up its western side to an overhanging summit. He later stated that he made between 10 and 12 ascents of the rock between 1913 and 1930. Conway joined the Mazamas in 1914 and served our organization until his death in 1972. Gary Leech was not privy to this information when he climbed the landmark in 1933 and could never understand why his contemporaries lacked interest in the natural attraction. “Why the host of Mt. Hood climbers from Portland and its environs,” he wrote, “have completely ignored this aloof rock for so many years is a mystery to me. Possibly their predilection for snow climbing has grown into an obsession.”

On the evening of Sept. 9, 1934, Mazamas A.J. Gilardi and O.R. Lunn arrived at the Lone Fir Lookout along Mt. Hood’s southern

slopes, advising the ranger there that they had just made an ascent of Illumination Rock. In the weeks that followed, Gary Leech heard rumors that Lunn and Gilardi were claiming it as a first ascent. These two alpinists, however, may have been as unaware of Leech’s efforts the year prior as Leech had been of Conway’s work in 1913.

Lucille Lamb became the first woman to ascend the landmark. A Mazama member, she accompanied Gary Leech on an ascent of the West Arête on Aug. 8, 1935. Club member Joe Winter took visiting German alpinist Carl Anthon to the summit on Sept. 22, 1935. Mazama Ralph Calkin made a solo ascent on July 15, 1936. His time from the Wy’east Cabin to the summit was two hours and 13 minutes. The following day Calkin’s friend and well-known alpinist, Joe Leuthold, completed the journey, accompanied by Ida Zacher. Both were club members who would go on to be part of the first ascent team on St. Peter’s Dome in the Columbia River Gorge. On Aug. 30, 1936, club members Erwin Nillson and Colin Chisholm added their names to the register, penning in the log, “Regular Route, we guess.”

The 1937 season saw a marked increase in activity on the rock.

On July 17, Bill Hackett and

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the McJury Brothers—Russ and Don—ascended the West Arête.

All three alpinists were Mazamas, with Russ retiring years later having made four first ascents of climbing routes on Mt. Hood. Bill Hackett would go on to help pioneer the Seven Summits Dream.

Between 1933 and 1937, rock climbers who reached the summit of Illumination Rock had to content themselves with leaving calling cards or autographed scraps of paper and cardboard. They’d weigh down these small documents with rocks to prevent them from being blown away and position them inside the V-shaped trough that constituted the summit rim.

Leech assembled these mementos sometime in 1937. He typed up a list of those who had summited, when these ascents had taken place and by what routes. On Aug. 6, Leech and Lt. John Nance brought these typed sheets of paper to the summit and placed them in a waterproof metal tube.

On Aug. 15, 1937, Ida Zacher returned to make her second ascent, accompanied this time by fellow Mazama Alfred Corbett. That same afternoon, Joe Winter and Sylvia Paget, also club members, followed in their footsteps. Winter’s register entry reads, “The top was a little cold and windy and I notice the

rock is just as loose as ever. Sylvia has the makings of a damn good rock climber.”

On Aug. 22, 1937, club member Jack Ferrel teamed up for an ascent with some of the most active climbers from the Golden Age of exploration on Mt. Hood: Bill “Smoke” Blanchard, Hubert North and Ted Bloom. These four climbers made a full traverse of the rock—up the West Arête and down the East. They encountered a substantial amount of ice along their route. In late August 1937, Mazamas Glen Asher, Joe Leuthold, Ralph Calkin, Bill Wood and Sam Johnston made an ascent. They failed to enter a date in the register although it might have been the same day as Ferrel’s team.

The entries follow one another in the log.

“An easy day for a lady,” Leuthold’s party added, apparently referencing Albert F. Mummery’s famous quote.

During the summer of 1938, a significant decline in Mazama activity occurred on the rock. Irving Lincoln, noted photographer, made a solo ascent on June 12. A couple of weeks later, on July 31, the McJury brothers were back and scrambled up the South Wall. On Aug. 13, club member Joe Winter teamed up with Gary Leech for the first ascent of the Rock’s Elevator Shaft. “This is being done

in an ice storm,” they recorded in the log. On Sept. 16, Don McJury returned yet again, this time accompanied by Bob Camber and one of their former Boy Scout friends, Wendell Stout. Together they ascended via the South Wall.

On July 17, 1939, Gary Leech, accompanied by some friends, returned from Illumination Rock to report to the mountaineering community that the East Arête “had fallen away.” Mammoth-sized rocks had peeled off and crashed to the glacier below. Leech’s entry in the summit register on this date was additionally the first to appear in handwriting. Leech had periodically kept the log up to date by typing the entries he discovered during the 1938 season. Starting in the summer of 1939, however, those climbers who summited Illumination Rock had to use a pencil to hand-write entries on blank sheets of typing paper they discovered in the register tube.

The only ascent in 1939 conducted by members of the Mazamas took place on Aug. 20, when Bill Hackett and Don McJury climbed the South Wall. McJury returned to the same route on Aug. 31, 1940, accompanied by Bill Lenahan and Einar Linstad, Jr. On Sept. 21, 1940, club members Herb Rasor, Joe Leuthold

and Ralph Calkin ascended the rock but by an unknown route. Fred Ayers led three other alpinists on the last pre-World War II Mazama ascent on June 15, 1941.

During the course of the war, the only documented ascent by club members— led again by Ayers—took place on June 24, 1945.

These early alpinists marveled at the V-shaped trough that constituted the uppermost ridge, coupled with the block of rock overhanging the north face that marked the true summit. Every alpinist who completed an ascent here was exposed to unique terrain features. Leech incorrectly predicted that the summit block would fall within 10 years, but his pioneering efforts, coupled with the multiple ascents made by members of the Mazamas during the Golden Age, meant the landmark would remain open for further exploration.

The typed-up sheets of paper and handwritten entries that constituted the summit register for Illumination Rock between 1933 and 1953 were brought down the mountain and now reside in our Mazamas Archives. Of the 54 ascents recorded in this makeshift register, 29 of the parties contained members of the Mazamas.

1951 Mazama Acquaintance Climb of Mount Hood, passing by Illumination Rock. —Photographer unknown, Mazama Archives Image VM2000.019.

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Successfully Summiting Mt. Blanc— Mazama Outing

by Lisa Brady

In July 2013 a group of Mazamas traveled to Chamonix, France, for two weeks of climbing. This is the story of one of the climbs completed during that trip.

At an elevation of 15,781 feet, Mt. Blanc is the highest peak in Western Europe and towers above the borders of Italy and France. Historically, the Glacier des Bossons extended more than 12,000 feet from the summit of Mt. Blanc all the way to the town of Chamonix below, but the effects of global warming have shrunk it considerably.

Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard were the first to reach the Mt. Blanc summit on Aug. 8, 1786, an achievement widely considered to mark the beginning of modern mountaineering.

The Mt. Blanc massif contains a number of sought-after peaks including the Grand Jorasses, Aiguille Verte, Dent du Géant, Les Droites and Les Drus. Many of the climbs in this area have long been proving grounds or boasting points for world-class adventurers. On the day of our summit bid, trail runner and mountaineer Kilian Jornet set a speed record of 4 hours, 57 minutes, 40 seconds, to ascend from the town of Chamonix to the summit and back. His route to the top was nine miles long and 12,378 vertical feet. He reached the top in 3 hours, 30 minutes, averaging an astounding 3,500 feet of vertical gain per hour. Due to the record setters and boundary pushers, as well as the number of amateur climbers that visit these peaks every year, there is also a world-class rescue unit. The Peloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne, or PGHM, is one of the busiest and best mountain rescue units in the world. Unfortunately we witnessed the PGHM in action and I can testify to their amazing skill and efficiency.

On July 10, Marty Scott, Gary Bishop, Mike DeLaune and I set out on our attempt to climb Mt. Blanc via the Gouter Route

or Voie Royale. Our journey was interesting from the start. We arose early to catch a bus to a neighboring town and planned to take a ski lift part way up the mountain. However, a fire we didn’t know had occurred had shut down the lift. It was a situation made more complex by the language barrier but, luckily, an English-speaking driver pointed us down the road to a different ski lift and we set out walking. Once we reached the Prarion lift in the town of Les Houches, we waited a half hour for that particular lift to open and rode it up. After riding the lift we traipsed back downhill several kilometers toward where the original lift would have let us off to catch a ride on the Tramway du Mt. Blanc. Several hours after departure from Chamonix, we finally reached the starting point of our climb at Nid de Aigle, 7,782 feet. For myself as climb leader—and provisional at that—it felt like an eternity just to begin the climb.

Leaving the tram station, the climb to the Tete Rousse Hut at 10,390 feet is a bit like the Palmer on Mt. Hood—requisite monotony to reach the good stuff. Immediately after passing the hut, the climb takes a different tone. The route crosses a moderate snow slope called the Grand Couloir. I can think of many names to call it, and none of them contain the word grand.

It’s a 100-meter dash across a lower portion of an 1,800-foot slope both bordered and topped by cliff bands. Conditions on this part of the route depend on the season, temperature and time of day, but the rockfall frequency ranges from occasional to near constant. Marty’s close encounter with a flying rock remained on my mind throughout the rest of the climb as we planned to descend the same route. Once across the couloir, 1,800 feet of

Left: climbers descending the Bosses Ridge (~4500m) below the summit of Mont Blanc. Right: Mont Blanc and the Dôme du Goûter from Chamonix. Photos: Lisa Brady

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Gary Bishop descending from the summit of Mont Blanc (4808m). Chamonix (1035m) is in the valley below. Photo: Lisa Brady.

somewhat exposed Class 4 scrambling is all that stood between us and a hot meal and warm bed at the Gouter Hut. The Gouter Hut is a four-story structure at an elevation of 12,582 feet on the edge of a 5,000-foot cliff and can accommodate as many as 120 climbers each night during climbing season. We stayed in a new structure commissioned by the French Alpine Club that was designed to be self-sufficient for both energy and water and to withstand winds of up to nearly 200 mph. It took five years to design and another three years to build and is an engineering marvel. It had been open for only two weeks before our arrival and still had some kinks to work out. The lower level is a massive gear room where things dry out just about as well as they do in the gear room at the Mazama Lodge on a packed night. The second level is a dining and bar area. The upper two levels contain several large rooms with modern bunk beds. The hut serves dinner and breakfast and is amazingly well-equipped considering its location.

I had a hard time getting to sleep that night due to the excitement of climbing the next day, multiple climbers in close quarters and the subtle changes in my breathing when trying to lay flat at that altitude. Most of the climbers from the hut, including our group, started out in the darkness at about the same time after a 2 a.m. breakfast. Until pacing separated the groups, it felt a bit like a conga line.

Later, after a climber in our group dropped his helmet, I was grateful for that conga line. The horror of watching the helmet speed downhill and out of sight was quickly replaced with relief when another climber appeared bearing the lost item.

It wasn’t long before the first light of dawn began to show. Sunrise is one of my favorite parts of mountaineering and this one did not disappoint. Pinks and oranges lit the sky, and a massive summit shadow spread across the landscape below.

Not long after sunrise we had that “woo hoo!” moment of a successful summit. It was exhilarating to stand on the

roof of Western Europe and gaze on the Alps in every direction. We enjoyed the view, snapped some photos and descended soon after in order to escape the windblown ice raking our cheeks.

We were waiting our turn at the Grand Couloir crossing around 2 p.m. when a rock let loose near the top of the chute. Climbers above and below were yelling “rock!”

The rock took an awkward bounce over several climbers before striking one on the back of his head. He tumbled like a ragdoll over the edge and down the couloir. Calls of “Arrest! Arrest!” in various languages filled the air. He stopped several feet from the edge of a cliff at the base of the couloir and crawled a few feet to a more protected area away from the continuing rockfall.

We then got to see the PGHM or “Angels of Mt. Blanc” in action. The first survey chopper was on-site and airlifting the injured climber out within 20 minutes. We waited out the rescue below us as the chopper blades made it impossible to hear any “rock” calls. Being the first of our group to cross after watching someone tumble down a couloir and nearly over a cliff was one of the hardest things I’ve had to do in mountaineering, more so because I had suffered a concussion from rockfall less than a year earlier. With hearts racing, we passed through unscathed. We took a long mental and physical break once we reached the lower hut. We then hurriedly made our way down the final 2,500 feet back to the tram, eager for the post-climb celebration and some sleep.

Looking back on the trip, it’s amazing that we were able to experience and accomplish as much as we did. Despite all the challenges of a multi-day climb in a foreign country, we successfully climbed Mt. Blanc!

July 4–17, 2013 Participants—Lee Davis, leader; Marty Scott, assistant leader; Shirley Welch, assistant leader; Gary Bishop, Lisa Brady, Carol Bryan, Mike and Susan DeLaune, Bridget Martin.

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The Continued Challenge of Middle Peak

by John Frieh

This trip was generously supported by the Mugs Stump Award, the Copp-Dash Inspire Award and the Mazama Climbing Club Alpine Adventure Grant. We cannot emphasize enough our gratitude and appreciation for the individuals and companies that support these award programs.

One of the great things about Alaska is its size; miles and miles of mountain ranges scattered across the largest state in the union filled with lines as big and remote as the state itself. I got my Alaska introduction where most do—the Central Range—in 2009, and slowly branched out to other locations in the state in the years that followed.

In 2012 I made my first visit to the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park where my team attempted to make the first ascent of Middle Peak (13,040 feet).

After climbing more than 5,000 feet, we were stopped less than 700 feet short of the summit. This of course could mean only one thing: I would return again in 2013.

Our 2013 attempt felt like a Hollywood movie playing out: big falls, injuries and multiple teams gunning for the same unclimbed summit. But when the credits finally rolled, Middle Peak had yet again successfully defended her unclimbed status, stopping a total of four attempts from three different teams, including two attempts by my partner and me.

Our story started on March 28 with Daniel Harro flying to Anchorage to handle the pre-trip logistics of rounding up all the items we couldn’t, or didn’t, want to haul up from Portland: food, fuel, sleds and so on. Colin Haley and I joined him in Anchorage around 1 a.m. on April 1. We slept a few hours before departing for Chitina around 7 a.m. Five hours later we had just barely finished unpacking the car at the airstrip when Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters landed. We quickly loaded our kit in Paul’s Otter and 30 minutes later we arrived at the Ultima Thule Lodge in McCarthy. Weather conditions were variable enough that Paul wasn’t comfortable attempting the landing on the Hawkins Glacier that same day so we spent the night at the lodge. By noon on April 2, the weather had improved enough to complete the second half of the flight and Ultima Thule shuttled us in one by one in

a Super Cu—a smaller, more nimble plane capable of handling the short landing zone found on the Hawkins Glacier. Though Paul was able to get a closer landing strip this year compared to 2012, we were still a few hours of skiing away from the west face of Middle Peak. Considering the chaotic, broken surface of the Hawkins Glacier, just being able to land was a small victory.

We had heard rumors that other Anchorage climbers were also attempting the west face of Middle Peak this year.

Upon arrival in Chitina, Paul informed us that a team of three had made one attempt earlier in March and a subset of that team was currently making a second attempt. Apparently we were late to the party. As we were shuttled to the Hawkins on April 2, we spotted from the plane a team of two climbers low on the west face, indicating to us they had just started climbing.

After setting up base camp we discussed our options. We faced two challenges: 1) the Anchorage team had just started up the west face, and our weather window wouldn’t last long enough for us to wait for them to finish and come down; and 2) the route would act as a funnel for anything knocked off above us. So we agreed we should consider a different line on Middle Peak if we hoped to climb it during this weather window. We quickly settled on the southwest face—the same line I attempted in 2012—and departed camp that afternoon to scope it out up close.

About 20 minutes out of camp, Colin punched through a hidden crevasse and pinballed down its walls for about 50 12

feet before becoming wedged. Because we intended this to be a casual reconnaissance trip up the glacier, we lacked the equipment to immediately retrieve him. Fortunately Daniel, our best skier, was in the rear and closest to camp. So he sprinted back there for rescue equipment. I busied myself with clearing the crevasse lip and keeping in verbal contact with Colin.

Daniel covered the distance to camp quickly and returned with everything we needed. We lowered a rope to Colin and hauled out his skis and poles.

Then we top-roped him so he could climb out of the crevasse under his own power. Daniel, who is a firefighter with EMT training, did a quick evaluation of Colin’s injuries before the three of us slowly skied back to camp.

It became clear that evening that Colin’s injuries, though not life-threatening, needed a more comprehensive medical evaluation, so we scheduled a pickup for Colin the following morning.

The remaining question was whether Daniel and I should stay. I operate under the philosophy that a team should always stick together. So my first thought was that we should accompany Colin back to Seattle, especially since we did not know how he would get from Chitina to Anchorage, let alone Seattle.

Colin was convinced he would be able to figure it out and encouraged Daniel and I to stay and climb. We struggled with the decision, but in the end Daniel and I opted to stay and climb.

Paul Claus picked up Colin shortly after dawn on April 3. Daniel and I recognized our weather window was quickly slipping away, so we planned to launch late in the evening after a day of

resting, packing and, most importantly, eating. The alarm went off at 9 p.m. and we skied out of camp at 10 p.m. We abandoned the skis at some point and set a pace that would keep us moving through the night given the brutally cold temperature. Dawn finally broke and we stomped a ledge out for a brew-and-snooze session; the altimeter told us we were just shy of 10,000 feet.

The rest revitalized us and we got underway, climbing the remainder of the southwest face to the start of the dreaded

Ruedi Homberger took his giant cornice fall in 2002.

At 11,000 feet we finally laid eyes on the true summit. It was approximately 400 feet away from us and roughly 50 feet taller than us. I felt like I could have thrown a baseball and struck it easily. In between us lay a double corniced ridge that first dropped down from our perch and then slowly arced its way up to the overhanging summit cornice. We sat for a good 30 minutes looking for a weakness or a possible way to traverse around

John Frieh rigs for rappel. Photo: Daniel Harro.

cornice ridge that separated us from the summit. Using some knowledge from the 2012 attempt and some careful planning from the glacier this year, Daniel and I were able to find a different way to get onto the complex ridge. Though it required difficult pitches of mixed climbing, it put us much higher on the ridge and likely saved us some valuable time. We made slow but steady progress up and around the cornices, surpassing my high point of 10,400 feet last year.

Each monster cornice on the ridge left us wondering if it were the last before reaching the summit or the point where

to the other side of the summit. Nothing seemed safe.

We slowly reversed the ridge using a mix of belayed down-climbing and rappelling. It was slower going down and made me glad we had started so early the day before. Finally we rappelled back onto the southeast face and began the long descent with more rappels and down-climbing back to the glacier and our skis. On the ski back to camp we saw that our pilot Paul Claus and his son Jay had landed at camp. When we arrived we found them picking up the other team who had been unsuccessful on their 13

second attempt of the west face and had called for pickup. Paul congratulated us on our attempt and informed us we had the new high point on the unfortunately still-unclimbed Middle Peak. Even better than that, Paul told us Colin had found a ride into Anchorage and was headed home to Seattle soon, which was a relief to us both.

After a leisurely start to April 5, we decided to ski over to look at the west face of Middle Peak. The route looked hard.

But much more importantly, it was finally unoccupied so we decided we would pack for an attempt on the 6th just in case the predicted bad weather didn’t manifest. Unfortunately, the bad weather arrived on time and for the next several days we fell into a daily ritual of eating, skiing to the base of the west face of Middle Peak to keep the track established, monitoring snow conditions, taking pictures and pestering people via satellite phone for weather updates.

Word came through that the forecast was hinting at a possible brief break in the weather around April 11, so we again prepped and packed for an attempt. We left camp at 2 a.m. on the 11th and make quick progress across the glacier. We cached our skis at the base of the icefall that separated us from the start of the west face and started climbing. The snowpack made it immediately apparent that the snowfall over the past week had not settled out yet.

We observed much whumping and settling as we climbed up to the base of the couloir. I joined Daniel at the couloir’s base and we discussed whether to continue in these conditions. We quickly agreed the snowpack was warning us about what might be waiting for us in the couloir. We snapped some pictures and returned to our skis and finally to camp.

The predicted weather window did arrive later that morning and fortunately Jay Claus was able to grab us both and fly us back to the Ultima Thule Lodge.

On April 12, we flew from McCarthy to Chitina and began our return drive to Anchorage, thus ending our trip to the Wrangell-St. Elias for 2013.

The Wild Side of Mt. Hood

by Glenn Widener

Did you know that there is a truly wild and untamed mountain with long exposed ridges, high cirques filled with active glaciers, steep faces and big rock buttresses less than two hours from Portland? That it’s accessed by a gravel road that is never plowed in winter, to a trailhead inside the wilderness boundary? And there’s a wilderness trail that climbs through alpine meadows to a high, windswept camp above a glacier, with incredible views up and down the mountain, where you can spend a weekend and never see another human until you are near the summit?

Eric Brainich navigates onto Cathedral Ridge. Photo: Glenn Widener.

No, it’s not Jefferson or Adams. It’s a long-forgotten route on the north side of Mt. Hood.

I guess I’m about to ruin it, but here we go ...

June 6, 2000: I’m standing at the Queen’s Chair, a little flat perch where Cathedral and Yocum ridges join, just below Mt. Hood’s summit area. I have just summited the Sunshine Route with a Mazama party led by Bob Brievogel. It’s a clear, crisp spring day, with dizzying views down the north face to the glaciers and moraines: Coe Glacier directly below, Eliot to the right. Looking left, I wonder: What’s over there, north of Cathedral Ridge?

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Afterward, I look at the guidebooks and find no mention of routes in the area between the Coe Glacier and Cathedral Ridge. The last successful official Mazama climb of any route on Hood between Sandy Glacier Headwall and Sunshine was Cathedral Ridge in 1981, and only a couple of attempts on the Coe Glacier in 1983 and 1984.

That lack of activity on a big chunk of “our mountain” is a crying shame! I resolve to do something about it someday.

1886: First ascent of the Ladd Glacier route on Mt. Hood by a party led by Newton Clark (noted in Jack Grauer’s, Mount Hood—A Complete History).

This was eight years before the founding of the Mazamas and the year my grandfather was born.

Coe/Ladd route possibilities continued to gnaw at me over the years. I wondered if, as global warming made spring arrive ever earlier, there was now a reasonable north-side approach while ice routes remained in shape. To find out, in 2010 Russell Kelley and I skied from Laurance Lake up to the end of road 2840. The road starts at 2,900 feet, quickly gains an open ridge with great views of the mountain and at 3,700 feet passes the Pinnacle Trailhead. This trailhead is only six miles from the summit and just 20 feet below the Tilly Jane Trailhead at the Cooper Spur Ski Area, so access isn’t nearly as rigorous as you might think. I decided that a summit attempt was in order.

After leading a Sunshine climb in 2011, 2012 seemed like the right year to give Ladd a try. Al Papesh and Jeff Hawkins signed on. Jeff recruited Katy Ryan from his canceled Hood climb the previous weekend. With her ice climbing resumé and strong conditioning, she proved to be a great addition!

May 12, 2012: We are hiking through a thick pine and fir forest. Alive and green only a few months ago, it’s now thoroughly blackened by an intense fire. It’s a hot day. The naked branches do little to block the sun. The smell of the fire, extinguished by the snows of the last winter, lingers subtly, the charcoal coating our boots. The only colors are the blue sky above and brown where the burned bark is falling away.

Yet it’s starkly beautiful, the black trunks contrasting with the fading winter snows that appear as we gain elevation. The quiet and stillness seem somehow alive, though all appears long dead.

The burn area stretches for hours and miles. Then in the distance we start to catch glimpses of green trees. The higher, wetter elevations and rougher terrain around the Pinnacle have halted the fire’s advance. So the forest isn’t totally burned on and on forever after all.

The weekend forecast had turned very warm, threatening to develop even worse avalanche conditions than the week before.

We decided to at least explore the approach and play the rest by ear, committing to a blitzkreig plan—Friday afternoon hike in, brief rest on Barrett Spur, an early start and a pact to be off the steep stuff by noon no matter what.

Our calendar timing is perfect: We are able to burst through the last patch of snow in four-wheel drive and get to the trailhead. A blocking tree has recently been cleared. The trail is all snow after the first 3/4 of a mile, so snowshoes are perfect.

We exit the burn, enter snow-filled basins and cross the Timberline Trail just in time for a lovely sunset. Then we head into the shelter of the trees on Barrett Spur, looking for a flat spot to camp before dark and an all-too-early start. I’m not sure who first noticed the significance of being three grizzly old men and a blonde, but when Jeff finds a good spot, I call down, “Come on up, Goldilocks!”

“Goldilocks and the Three Bears” sticks immediately, along with a few nicknames and post-climb limericks.

We are horizontal for about two hours, then off up Barrett Spur. Zigzaging across the snowy ridgeline, we find a faint trail where the ground is blown free of snow. We pass through a small saddle, taking note of possible campsites, drop onto the edge of the lower, uncrevassed part of the Ladd Glacier and soon are roping up beneath the prow of Barrett Spur, looking up at the 300-foot face of Pulpit Rock.

There is a short couloir on the west face of Pulpit, just above a small bergschrund on the left edge of the Ladd Glacier headwall.

It’s right where the topo map suggests a route might be. A nearly uncrevassed snow ramp next to the Pulpit gives us easy access to the begschrund.

I’m feeling the short night and, truth be told, am a bit intimidated by the icy, steep couloir—after all, a top-rope ice climbing class in the MMC isn’t quite the same as a real, unexplored, variable pitch of ice, glued to questionable rock above a big crevasse, located about as far off the beaten track as it gets on Hood. I bravely turn the lead over to Al, who crosses the bergschrund easily and attacks the 50 feet of 50- to 65-degree ice. Pick placements in the mostly water ice are excellent—this is actually fun!

We continue simul-climbing directly up the unnervingly soft

and variable 45-degree 800-foot west face of the ridge above Pulpit, gaining the ridgetop at about 9,400 feet. Nice lead, Al! Feeling pretty winded by plowing through the soft snow, we check the time and confirm what we’ve known for a while: We are done climbing for this trip if we are to keep to our noon deadline. Just a few hundred feet of easy ridge separate us from a hike up upper Cathedral Ridge, so we’ve absolutely proven

Al Papesh (left) and Jeff Hawkins (right) apres-climb at base camp. The route looms above. Photo: Glenn Widener.

that the route goes. Completing the route is for another year.

We declare “mission accomplished” and traverse east across the upper Coe Glacier. One large snowbridge goes “whump” when I step on it, confirming the decision—time to zip down the Snow Dome, locate a short face that allows access to the lower Coe and zip across under the icefall. We are back at our rope-up spot just 30 minutes behind the noon deadline. Soon we are back at continued on next page

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Mt. Hood, continued from previous page camp for a couple hours of recovery napping in the sun, then have a choice of conditions: hard ice on the windward (west) a quick hike out. side, soft snow on the lee (east) at the edge of Coe Glacier. I May 10, 2013: We are hiking the burn once again on a vacillate and try both as I lead up. Always willing to share, I warm afternoon. The snow melted earlier this year, the burned offer the last short obstacle to Eric, who sets a nice line to the bark is peeling and the bear grass is making a comeback, but crest of Cathedral. From here it’s a straightforward trudge past you can still smell the smoke. For this trip, Goldilocks and the the Queen’s Chair to the summit ridge and back.

Three Bears are joined by Steve Marston, Roger Wong and Eric The descent is as interesting as the ascent. The Coe/ Brainich.

Sunshine bergschrund is open all the way across, so we descend This year we have the luxury of a more sane timetable, so we off Cathedral Ridge next to our ascent ridge using a two-rope pack all the way up to the saddle on Barrett Spur and indeed lower and leader self-belay. This ends in a humorous five-foot find several workable tent sites on bare ground (except for Mr. jump down over the closed crevasse. Then an easy traverse east Hardman Al, who elects to tent on snow). across the Coe, above the icefall to the top of the Snow Dome.

This spot offers clear and stunning views of our route A quick descent of the Snow Dome ends in an unprotected options. Our couloir from last year on the west face of Pulpit traverse above the lower crevasse (having ill-advisedly used Rock is partly melted out so we go with plan B: a snow chute up our pickets on safer ground above). An unroped reverseon the east face of Pulpit Rock, next to the Coe Icefall. This is approximately the Pulpit Rock route in the guidebook by Jeff Thomas.

May 11, 2013: Once again I share the lead, this time with Steve, who runs us easily up the excellent cramponing in the chute on a couple of pickets and one ice screw in a large solid chunk of the Coe. Looking around, we are amazed that none of the On Cathedral Ridge, above Pulpit Rock, Barrett Spur, Ladd and Coe glaciers. Photo: Glenn Widener smaller chunks of rock and ice that litter the slope are falling off.

Sunrise: We are high on the sharp, exposed snow ridge traverse west in the compression zone below the Coe icefall above Pulpit Rock, which divides the Coe and Ladd glaciers. (quickly!) and we are back to the gap between Barrett Spur and Spectacular views of the entire north face of Hood surround Pulpit Rock. The rest is lounging and photo-ops in camp and us: Cooper Spur, Eliot Glacier and Headwall, Snow Dome snowshoeing out. and Sunshine Route, Barrett Spur below, and the full length of 2014 and beyond: A long-forgotten route on Mt. Hood Cathedral Ridge our immediate objective. is mined from the dust-heap and back in business. We will be Suddenly an object is flying—a helmet bounding down back to complete our Ladd Glacier route and explore other ice the slope! Eric takes three big strides and jumps on it. While lines to the right, including (possibly, in perfect conditions) roped. Nice catch! He hands it back to Steve, who mumbles the direct Ladd Headwall. The nearly-as-forgotten Pulpit Rock something about the chin strap. I check mine. route absolutely deserves a place in the regular Mazama Mt. The ridge is clean and straight with no real difficulties, just Hood repertoire—once the summer climb season is shifted to one short steep section at the top to gain Cathedral Ridge. We match global warming and possibly starts April 15.

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Climbing Aconcagua —Mazama Outing

by Matt Carter

On Thursday, Jan. 3, 2013, four Mazamas left Portland International Airport for Mendoza, Argentina, to climb the Andes’ Aconcagua.

The group was composed of leader Rick Posekany, assistant Matt Carter, and climbers Jay Avery and John Hatch.

As noted in Wikipedia, Aconcagua is the highest peak in the Americas at 22,837 feet. The Aconcagua Provincial Park reports that about 60 percent of climbers who attempt its summit succeed. About 75 percent of climbers are foreigners and 25 percent are Argentinean. Among foreigners, the United States leads in number of climbers, followed by Germany and the United Kingdom. About 54 percent of climbers ascend the Normal Route, 43 percent go up the Polish Glacier Route and the remaining 3 percent are on other routes.

The origin of the mountain’s name is contested. It may spring from any number of phrases used by indigenous peoples including “Aconca-Hue,” which refers to the Aconcagua River and means “comes from the other side;” “Ackon Cahuak,” meaning “’sentinel of stone;” “Anco Cahuac,” meaning “white sentinel;” or “Janq’u Q’awa,” meaning “white ravine.”

Getting there While the flight from Portland to Dallas was unremarkable, the Dallas-

John Hatch, Rick Posekany, Jay Avery and Matt Carter moving from Camp 1 up to Camp 2. Photo: Unknown.

to-Santiago leg felt and sounded like a sick ward. A dozen or more people around us were coughing; one person was frighteningly ill.

The weather in Mendoza was warm and dry—quite a change from Portland’s January gloom. Transporting our group and our gear from the airport to the hotel required two cabs. At the hotel, three of us witnessed a pattern that repeated itself many times: Rick knows a lot of people in Mendoza.

People frequently greet him by name in places of business and on the street.

We walked to Limite Vertical, an outdoor shop with just enough of everything to get us into the mountains. There Rick introduced us to Walter. Walter and Rick discussed the “old days” and introduced us to mate, a tea-like drink that’s very popular in Argentina.

Because we had flown in the sick ward of the airplane, we decided to wait a few days to buy our non-refundable permits. That way, any cold we

may have caught on the plane would have time to incubate and manifest itself and we’d be able to adjust our plans if necessary. We spent those three days buying and preparing food for the climb and purchasing fuel and forgotten items. We met the base-camp service provider, paid those fees and arranged for mules into base camp.

On Monday morning, Jan. 7, without a sniffle or cough among us, we purchased our permits and jumped into the Land Rover Walter had arranged for us. By 1:30 p.m. we were at a lodge in the Los Penitentes ski area high in the Andes. Los Penitentes is at about 8,400 feet elevation. We planned to stay two days to acclimatize.

Leaving Los Penitentes All of us were feeling strong without a hint of altitude sickness so we left for the mountain the next morning, cutting a day off the stay in Los Penitentes. We handed our heavy bags over to the mules and with a short Land Rover ride we arrived at the Vacas continued on next page

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Aconcagua, continued from previous page Trailhead. Our permits were processed and we were each issued a garbage bag with a serial number.

Over the years, heavy mule traffic has created poor trail conditions. As it turns out, mules are as hard on gear as they are on the trails. By the first stop, many a climber’s bag had become a bit tattered. Fortunately, back in town, Rick had cautioned us against using our expensive mountaineering bags. So we purchased inexpensive canvas “sea bags,” which proved quite durable.

Six hours of hiking along the Vacas River put us into the first camp at 9,387 feet. It was very warm. We discovered that the guide services had arranged for the gauchos to cook for them. The smells were amazing and made our menu choice feel like punishment.

After our morning meal, we repacked our bags, loaded down the mules and headed out early for our next stop. We moved quickly to avoid being overtaken by the large guided groups and left without a place to pitch our tents at the next camp.

As we neared Casa de Piedra we observed someone approaching from the rear at a rapid pace. Fearing that he was a guide heading up to claim all the tent sites, Jay and Matt sprinted ahead. He was no guide,but a ranger with a building to stay in and no need of tent turf. The ranger

was maybe one-third of Jay’s age, but Jay smoked him on the way up to camp. What can you say about old goats?

At Casa de Piedra (10,662 feet) we started to re-evaluate our menu. While adequate, it couldn’t compare to the smells wafting from the open-fire cooking of the gauchos.

Up early again the next morning, we barely beat the guided Brits out of camp.

We forded the Vacas River right out of camp. The Brits did eventually overtake us as our pace was not as strong as it had been on day three.

Plaza Argentina Arriving at Plaza Argentina base camp at 13,779 feet we found few tent sites.

We ended up in the outback. The weather had turned from hot and dry to overcast and damp. During our first night in Plaza Argentina, it rained. A few thousand feet up the mountain, it was snowing.

We found the park service had an interesting weather forecast system. Forecasts were issued every four days. This was quite different from back home where forecasts are updated almost hourly. While in camp and moving loads up the mountain, one group came off because of weather. Many were huddled down at high camps waiting out the storm.

Our menu had become less appealing with each day. Rice again? Then we had a 18

bit of luck. A U.S. climber came down the mountain with a large cache of extra food that did not include oatmeal or Minute Rice. For $60 we had a giant improvement in variety. With the new supplies we also learned that John had a secret talent—cooking. Our meals became much improved.

Before anyone can advance past base camp, the park service requires that a doctor stationed at the camp perform a simple physical. They require one day in camp prior to the exam. We spent that time bagging the supplies we’d need for the upper camps. Our days in base camp also included witnessing a spectacular lightning show and the evacuation of climbers by the park service helicopter.

Kicking in at 20,000 feet After passing our physicals and collecting more serialized poop bags, we set out for Campo 1 (16,240 feet). The first night there brought snow. The forecast called for four more days of that, not only at Campo 1 but also at Campo 2 and the summit.

As forecasts often go, this one turned out wrong—for at least the first day. The afternoon was sunny and we began the shuttle to Campo 2. At 18,000 feet John had reached his altitude limit and returned to Campo 1. We rejoined him after dropping supplies at Campo 2. The next day Rick, Jay and Matt headed to Campo 2 and John

headed back to base camp. At Campo 2 we dug out some tent sites and set up camp.

Jay performed a major civil engineering feat in excavating his site, for which future climbers will be ever grateful. Our camp was at the base of the Polish glacier, where just weeks before climbers from the Portland area had perished. Our water supply was a frozen pond. Chipping through the ice, we were able to gain a generous supply of fresh water. Late afternoon the mountains were breathtaking, with their summits held high in the receding sunlight above a churning sea of clouds.

On Jan. 19, at midnight, we awoke and prepared to head up. Rick decided to delay the start three hours due to the cold and we went back to bed. We left at 4 a.m. In the darkness we found the trail to Black Stones rather than our planned trail to Independencia. The False Polish route is not climbed much these days. We chose to climb it due to Rick’s familiarity with it. Jay kicked steps all the way to where we joined the “Normal Route.” Kicking steps at 20,000 feet is no easy feat. The thin air finally caught up to Rick and he returned to camp at sunrise.

The summit and descent Because we had delayed our start time, then connected with the Normal Route lower down, we became the last party to ascend. We hustled as best we could at that altitude, passing a party that turned back

at The Cave. at 21,850 feet. As we passed The Cave, the weather turned from sunny and nice to stormy. We pushed hard to the summit at 22,837 feet and arrived at a very late 4:20 p.m. The summit was engulfed in clouds; visibility was about 20 feet or so.

After snapping a few photos, we headed down but the weather worsened. Areas exposed to the wind were brutal. To make our camp before darkness would require finding the route from Independencia to Campo 2. We made it to Independencia, then we headed down to where the trail should have been. With the new snow falling, the trail was not visible despite it being daylight. Out came the navigation equipment. This time it was Matt’s turn to kick steps. The storm limited our visibility, causing us to negotiate several mountain features we could have avoided had visibility been better and we’d found our trail. Along the way we encountered the decayed remains of a climber’s pack, a sober reminder of the serious nature of our efforts. Traversing an unbroken path in a storm relying on skills learned and practiced for years was quite an adventure.

Ten minutes before sunset we reached our tents. The storm raged on through the night.

In the morning we were greeted by calmer but still overcast conditions. It was obvious that a storm would be with us for some time to come and that we had a small

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window in which to retreat. We decided to carry out our gear in one heavy haul rather than in multiple hauls. We left Campo 2 with heavy packs (80 pounds for Jay) just as snow began to fall and descended to Plaza Argentina. The storm grew as we went down. The rangers reported Campo 2 got 16 inches of snow after we left. It was snowing at base camp.

John’s cooking gets attention John had been busy in base camp in the days we were at higher elevations. He had met a young climber with his father from Buenos Aires. They came to our mess tent and shared proper mate with us. The young man’s English was very good, thus we enjoyed an evening of good conversation. In the morning we found that John’s cooking skills had caught the attention of the rangers. We were invited to their cabin for breakfast, with John cooking.

Saying goodbye to our base-camp support After breakfast we repacked our bags, arranged for mules and began the hike out.

We had steady rain all the way to Casa de Piedra. We were treated to puma tracks and a herd of vicuña on the way to Casa de Piedra. The rain stopped and the weather warmed as we hiked out for two more days.

Rick’s bride-to-be?

After one night at Los Penitentes to shower and reconnect with our gear, we were off to Mendoza. Near our hotel we found a restaurant that had a full steak dinner for $10. As we prepared to head to the airport, the hotel staff introduced Rick to the woman they had picked for him to marry. It was all planned out, everything to the day. Rick is well known in Mendoza.

Jan. 2–31, 2013 Participants—Rick Posekany, leader; Matt Carter, assistant leader; Jay Avery, John Hatch.

Left Page: Matt Carter and Rick Posekany leaving Camp 2 for Base Camp. Photo: Jay Avery.

Above: Jay Avery on the summit of Aconcagua. Photo: Matt Carter.

Ski and Climbing Traverse of Norway’s Jotunheimen

by Keith K. Daellenbach

“In the mountains we forget to count the days.”—Japanese proverb The Jotunheimen (“Home of the Giants”) mountains of south-central Norway were named in 1862 by Aasmun Olavsson Vinje after the mythological mountain giants or trolls, Jotnane.

In 1980, the Jotunheimen Nasjonalpark was established at 444 square miles, which is about 20 percent larger than Mount Rainier National Park. The Jotunheimen contains the highest mountains in Northern Europe, including the 29 highest mountains of Norway. In late March and early April 2013, my father, now 73, and I were intent on skiing across the Jotunheimen and, conditions permitting, climbing some of Norway’s highest mountains.

This adventure started in my study more than 4,500 miles away in Portland with my pouring over maps of faraway places, communicating with native Norwegians about logistics and internet research. Norway is considered the birthplace of skiing and legend has it that children begin skiing near the time they learn to walk. There are half a dozen mountainous areas in Norway, each containing DNT (Den Norske Turistforening)marked ski tracks in the spring. We chose the Jotunheimen because it contains the most rugged and alpine terrain of peaks, glaciers, arêtes and frozen lakes. I further narrowed down our objective to the area that had mountain cottages (hyttes) open each year for lodging during late winter and early spring. After the 1:50,000 DNT topographic maps (Jotunheimen Aust and Jotunheimen Vest) I ordered from Oslo arrived, I studied them, certain I could devise a route that would be both on the standard hytte-to-hytte circuit and also take us off the beaten path over the high mountains.

Fully expecting to have to travel in inclement weather, I was intent on establishing a safe route of latitude and longitude waypoints that I could upload into my GPS device. Achieving this was a multi-step process that started with taking high-quality jpg photos of small portions of the DNT maps, uploading these jpg’s into Google Earth and orienting, scaling and locating the maps in relation to geographic features. After several more steps, this produced waypoints that were confirmed to be very accurate from

ground locations on the actual tour.

On the afternoon of Thursday, March 28, preparations complete, Dad and I were on our way to the land of our ancestors. Seventeen hours later we arrived in Oslo. After clearing customs we drove north from Gardermoen airport on the E6 in diminishing light past snowcovered farms, woodlots and villages. We drove into the night, finally stopping at a roadside rest area and slept in our sleeping bags in the back of the car, the ski bag wedged between us.

We continued early the next morning in the chill air, driving through charming hamlets, past homes with sod-covered roofs with reindeer racks hanging above the entrance and wisps of smoke trailing from fireplace chimneys. In a couple of hours, we arrived at Gjendesheim Turisthytte where we made our first ski tracks in Norway, heading west across the frozen lake of Gjende. The day was sunny but cool with almost no wind. Skiing on the lake surface was a little unnerving at first but I soon realized that, after a winter of freezing weather, the ice had to be several feet thick. It was the day before Easter Sunday and several others, mostly Norwegians, were out skiing as well and they shot by us, double poling on the hard snow surface. My initial pack weight was 50 pounds and Dad’s was 35 pounds.

We went as light as possible because we planned to stay in both the hyttes and in our tent; however, we essentially had all of our winter camping equipment with us.

We skied under the infamous “GendinEdge” high above the lake we had traversed 20

in September 2007. In a few hours we arrived at Memurubu Turisthytte on the edge of Gjende, mid-way up the lake. The hyttes in the Jotunheimen are very well appointed. They have bunks, running water, showers and offer delicious full breakfasts and dinners That evening, in the long night of darkness, with the North Star much higher in the sky than seen from the more southern latitude of home, we all enjoyed the gemütlichkeit of warm coziness in the lodge.

We awoke Easter Sunday and enjoyed a massive buffet lunch. We made smørbrød (open-faced sandwich) with cheeses and salami for lunch. Then we were off, heading north up the Memurudalen into a stiff wind that created a 0-degree wind chill. After several miles we left the established ski trail marked with willow branches and diverged, heading up and over the Jotunheimen via a small icecap edged with nunatak peaks. As we gained the Vestre Memurubrean Glacier, the weather closed in around us and we skied into the teeth of a strong wind that took the wind chill down below zero. The visibility was obscured in the blowing snow but we skied on and eventually stopped to establish our camp.

After years of working together in inclement conditions, Dad and I quickly got to work digging our camp into the surface of the glacier. We worked together to build a five-foot-high wall of snow blocks on the windward side of the tent’s location, set up and tied our Bibler I tent to our skis and jumped inside, a spindrift of snow following us in. I put on most

every layer of clothing I had with me and went back outside to melt snow and boil water for our evening meal and drink. That night, high up in the Jotunheimen and well off the beaten track, I thought of how, if each year’s snow pack compressed to approximately one inch thick, it would conceivably be possible to dig down roughly 150 inches into the glacier and sleep on the same snow that fell long ago on my Norwegian ancestors. That comforting thought lulled me to sleep as a fierce wind whipped over the top of the snow wall protecting our tent.

By the next morning the storm had blown itself out and the weather was clear, sunny and calm for our glacier crossing. We skied off, heading up the glacier to the col more than a mile away.

The views to the jagged peaks of the southern Jotunheimen were spectacular and I felt like a true Viking. At the col, the glacier’s surface leveled out and we found ourselves heading down the Hellstugubrean Glacier. Even with all the examination of Google Earth images I could collect prior to the trip, I was not completely convinced the route down the Hellstugubrean Glacier would be passable. I was expecting crevasses and knew we had to avoid an icefall on the west margin.

As it turned out, we were able to make a straightforward descent, even carving a few telemark turns on our way down to the glacier’s snout. From the glacier’s terminus, we continued down the Hellstuguåe drainage and picked up the Visdalen, which led us to our lodging for the next two nights at Spiterstulen Turisthytte.

This compound dates back to the 1830s when it was a high-mountain summer dairy farm. It is still privately owned today by the same family.

With an alpine start the next morning, we headed up Galdhøpiggen via the east ridge under threatening skies. We had occasional sun breaks and, surrounded by snow covered peaks, glaciers and deep valleys, it looked as though the Ice Age glaciers had just abated. We donned crampons to climb a slope angled up to 35 degrees. We crossed over the Svellnose, which is the first hump on the long ridge, and when we crossed over the second hump and could see the summit, I knew we were going to make it. The wind chill was down around zero and I had on every piece of clothing I’d brought except a lightweight wool balaclava. When I noticed a silver dollar-size patch of blanched skin on Dad’s cheek,

Charles Daellenbach skiing up Hestbekken out of Veodalen above Glitterheim. Photo: Keith Daellenbach.

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continued on next page

Norway, continued from previous page a precursor to frost bite, I told him that he should put the balaclava on to protect this exposed flesh. I insisted a couple of times, but he declined so we carried on. As we approached the locked stone-and-wood structure on the summit with exposed roof beams projecting like a Viking ship, I noticed two ravens swooping gleefully over the summit that I took to be a good omen. We trudged upward and reached the highest point in Norway, which I measured with my GPS at 8,126 feet. The wind died down and the view over the sea of Jotunheimen peaks was incredible. We celebrated that night back at Spiterstulen over a hearty dinner and a single Norwegian Aass beer valued at 70 kroner ($12).

Dad nursed an indurated right cheek from frost nip for a couple of days but otherwise he was fine.

By this time it was after Easter, most of the region’s visitors had departed, and we saw few if any skiers on the trail except for the first day. According to Bente Sulheim at Spiterstulen, the mostly clear weather we experienced was the best over the Easter holiday since 1995! There was between six inches and two-and-ahalf feet of snow everywhere we skied, although no appreciable new snow had accumulated in five weeks. Wednesday we had a 10½ mile ski from Spiterstulen to the Glitterheim Hytte that took us up and out of Visdalen, over a minor plateau, past the terminus of the large Veobrean Glacier and into the upper Veodalen.

We took our time taking in the sights so the day’s tour took us a little more than seven hours. Knut Vole, the fifth generation proprietor at Glitterheim, warmly welcomed us. We were joined at dinner

Left: Hellstugubrean and Visdalen from Kellhaus top on Galdhøppigen.

Right: Clockwise Jotunheimen ski circuit adapted from Den Norske Turistforening topographic maps. Photos: Keith Daellenbach.

by a man named Christian from Trondheim who had also skied over from Spiterstulen. When Dad asked him how long it took, he said matter-of-factly, “Two hours; excellent conditions.” Another speedy Norwegian double-poler! With Christian, I realized (and appreciated) that there is a small but important breed of Norwegian hardcores that ski all over the Jotunheimen, climbing multiple 2,000-meter peaks from bases in the hyttes.

The next morning Dad and I were on our way climbing up Norway’s second highest mountain, Glittertinden. We climbed easy slopes that were never more than 20 degrees to the final crenulated summit ridge with large cornices hanging over the precipitous north face. On top we unfurled small U.S. and Norwegian flags for summit photos. Glittertinden had once been considered the highest peak in Norway and, due to the ice cap that sits on top of it, it may well have been. Even so, my GPS measured the summit elevation to be 8,085 feet.

We left a U.S. flag on the summit and headed back to the hytte. That evening, Knut showed us through binoculars the first group of reindeer a kilometer up the Veodalen making their way to spring calving grounds. These reindeer were the harbinger of a large domesticated herd of 2,700 animals that were being shepherded through the mountains. We saw no people with this group of about 75 reindeer and when I asked Knut about this he said “they know where they are going.”

On the last day of the tour, we had a 22

13-mile ski out to Gjendesheim, which took us over two mountain pass areas and, in between, over the frozen lake of Russvatnet. We crossed the fresh tracks of a small herd of reindeer. Just before arriving at Gjendesheim on our circuit of the Jotunheimen, we passed through a small stand of scrub birch trees that were the only trees on the tour (treeline is at approximately 3,200 feet). After seven days and 60 miles of skiing and climbing, we completed this spectacular tour!

Before returning home, we spent one day in the capital city of Oslo visiting many interesting sites, including the Historisk Museum where we viewed Viking artifacts and some of Amundsen’s Netsilik Inuit collection from his winter at Gjøa Haven on King William Island, during which he made the first crossing of the Northwest Passage from 1903 to 1905. We also stopped at the Nobel Peace Center and the harbor quay at Bygdøy.

We celebrated the joy of our success over an excellent dinner of roasted reindeer and beer at the Stortorvets Gjæstgiveri, the oldest restaurant (ca. 1700) in Oslo, only a block from the historic and beautiful Domkirke cathedral.

A copy of Keith’s detailed travel notes (travel planning, logistics, gear, budget) as well as copies of DNT Jotunheimen topographic maps are available for viewing in the Mazama Library catalog.

A Climbing Comedy of Errors

by Suresh Singh

We had grand plans, my friends and I, to spend 10 days walking and climbing along the Ptarmigan Traverse in the North Cascades. But as is often the case when trying to coordinate the schedules of friends from across the country, time constraints led us to scale back on our itinerary and hit more easily accessible peaks in the same general vicinity.

Our group was composed of four people: Rustom from Georgia, an impressive mountaineer with a resume that includes the Himalaya and Alps; Caleb from California, a rock jock who makes 5.12s look easy; Ira from Florida, an accomplished athlete with limited climbing experience; and me, whose climbing skills have been variously described as, “What skills?” or, “Do you know what a rope is?”

We’ve all had days when weird things happen. This trip was a week of weird.

In keeping with Rustom’s style, all of the planning for this trip was done about six hours before our agreed-upon departure time. As a result, important logistics were overlooked, including where we’d stay the first night.

With the exception of Caleb, none of us likes to camp. So I spent part of

Saturday morning frantically trying to find a cheap motel. I felt rather pleased with myself after booking us two rooms at the Skagit Motel in Sedro-Woolley—a motel, it turned out, that looked and smelled like it was lifted straight from the movie Psycho.

I shared a room with Caleb that had one bed and a pullout sofa bed. At some point in its life, the sofa bed had lost a leg, which the owners had thoughtfully replaced with a fabric-wrapped plastic bucket. Although the room had been labeled non-smoking, it smelled as if a herd of wild cigarettes had stampeded in and been trapped for years. Rustom and Ira fared a bit better: they had two real beds, each with four fully functioning legs.

We began the next morning with breakfast at the Hometown Cafe and

Eating canned beans and couscous on Shuksan. Rustom, sitting at left; Caleb, standing at right; helpful gent who pointed out the toilet at far left. Photo: Suresh Singh.

Well, we are here on Sahale glacier. Now what do we do? Photo: Suresh Singh.

then wandered idly about downtown Sedro-Woolley discussing whether we should postpone our climb. I reasoned that since the weather was excellent, it was hardly sporting to climb any mountain. The ascent would be much more interesting if the weather was slightly less fine. On the other hand, if the weather turned too cloudy, there would be no point in climbing because that would just be showing off.

While engaged in these deep deliberations, I chauffeured our little group randomly around the Sedro-Woolley area. Eventually we found ourselves in the parking lot of the Park and Forest Information Center. My passengers thought I had trapped them into committing to a climb. They threw withering looks my way, then made a beeline for the toilets.

We hung around looking at stuff on the walls and since the ranger seemed bored, we engaged her in conversation.

Much to our dismay, she conned us into obtaining a backcountry permit for Mt. Shuksan. Now we had no choice but to climb. Since everyone was upset by the ranger’s manipulation, it took a very long time to sort through gear and drive to the trailhead. It was after 11 a.m. by the time we started walking. We immediately commenced complaining to each other about our heavy backpacks, the hot weather, other people and basically everything.

The trail to Sulphide Glacier led continued on next page

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Comedy of Errors, continued from previous page through forest inhabited by a ridiculous newly arriving party of three pointed out number of enormous flies, bees and who the toilet downhill from us no more than knows what else. I complained the whole 15 meters away. My partners blamed me way about the fallen trees that no one for not knowing this since I was listed as seemed to have cleared away. What were the “leader” on the backcountry pass. the rangers being paid for anyway? And A dinner of couscous and canned who needed so many trees? Where was vegetarian chili passed in sullen silence the snow? Did I just swallow a fly? Why and we went to bed at 7 p.m. with vague is the DEET not working? Do the flies plans to start our climb at 2 a.m. have gas masks? Are we there yet? After After spending a sleepless night with walking for what seemed like hours, we somebody’s foot in my face, I finally reached the pass at 1 p.m. and I was ready dozed off at 1 a.m. Alas, I was soon to kiss the snow. awakened by Rustom. We were all pretty Actually, I did kiss the snow, but it grumpy and everyone wanted to visit the was unintentional. I had thrown my pack toilet so we hung around camp fiddling down in frustration and a loose strap from with stuff. After delaying our start for as my camera bag snagged my foot sending long as we possibly could, we roped up me face down to the ground. To their and left at 3:45 a.m. Roped travel is quite eternal shame, none of my alleged friends even raised an eyebrow. They were probably wondering if they could leave me in a crevasse and steal my new crampons.

We eventually reached camp by 4 p.m. Because we were the first to arrive, we were able to pitch our Megamid on the dirt rather than on the snow.

Rustom showing off on the West Ridge of Hidden Lake Peak. Photo: Suresh Singh.

Hoping to avoid using the dreaded blue bags, Caleb, tedious and we found ourselves bumping Rustom and I went off in search of the into each other, pulling each other off two self-composting toilets rumored to balance, stepping on the rope in crambe on either side of the campsite. But pons and cursing at having to be roped none of us knew what to look for—we up at all. I was a little concerned about all assumed that the toilet would be a the rope because of all the crampon abuse, biggish structure so we took off toward but Rustom reassured me that he had read the Sulphide Glacier. The logic of this was an article in a German publication some never clear to me, but Caleb and Rustom years ago that said crampons don’t really seemed confident in their stride, so I damage ropes. He hadn’t read the whole followed along. After an hour of walking thing and couldn’t recall the publication’s unroped on the glacier, I suggested that it name, but I chose to believe this unsubwas unlikely that the toilet would be on stantiated fact since it was convenient the glacier, exciting though that may be to do so. Besides, I planned on having for relieving oneself. My friends ignored Rustom lead the difficult pitches. my concerns as that of an amateur and The grumbling continued until we we continued our wanderings. Finally encountered our first crevasse. Never we found ourselves back at camp where a have four grown men been so happy to

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encounter a crevasse. After successfully navigating the three-inch opening, we felt like highly skilled mountaineers. No longer did we mind the rope.

We walked on and reached the summit pyramid by 6 a.m. No sooner had we unroped than Ira dropped his helmet into a small bergschrund. Rustom decided to go in after it after being promised a beer.

He managed to snag the thing, but then he had to tangle with an overhanging bit of glacier to get out. The three of us rested, snacked and watched as Rustom slowly hauled himself out.

Ira did not feel like climbing to the rock summit so the rest of us tied a rope on and simul-climbed to the top. There were a few slings on the route so we used them as a running belay.

The view from the summit was excellent with Mt. Baker hovering in the west. We spent about 10 minutes on the summit making a nuisance of ourselves and chatting about irrelevant stuff. While taking photos, we discussed the need for somebody to flatten the top of the summit a bit and maybe add a bench or two. These suggestions were not appreciated by two other climbers who threw us dirty looks and fled before we could press them into taking a group portrait of us.

We rappelled off the summit to a nearby ledge, unroped and down-climbed the rest of the way.

We got back to camp in under two hours, packed up and left. The way down was pleasant enough, then we hit the trees and were once again greeted by our friends the flies. They had obviously missed us and were very inquisitive, asking how our day went, trying to determine what we had eaten by inspecting our mouths and buzzing in our ears.

Walking downhill is always a pain (in the knees) and I don’t enjoy it. I prefer running down since it is easier on the

knees, is more interesting (avoiding spills) for Seattle, making excuses about work with the second five devoted to trying to and gets one back to one’s car sooner. But and girlfriends. That left me in the ques- force down the food with iodinized water. this trail was littered with fallen trees so tionable company of Rustom. We had We went to bed at 6:30 p.m. but leapt out running was out of the question and it breakfast at The Eatery, where the coffee at 6:35 p.m. as we began to realize that seemed to take forever to get to the cars. is weaker than water but the pancakes are a four-season tent combined with threeI suffered a bee sting just shy of the mostly edible. season bags makes for sweaty sleeping. parking lot. Since I was the only one in The Marblemount Ranger Station The night passed slowly and we were the group allergic to bees, I didn’t appre- opened at 7 a.m. so we were there at very happy to get up before dawn. Breakciate being singled out for this honor. I 9 a.m.—we did not want to appear fast was a cup of coffee each after which stormed to my car, fished out an Epipen, too eager. After talking macho about we roped up and started up the glacier. To drank a liter of Gatorade and cursed all Forbidden Peak and Shark Fin (“Will 50 shave weight we took one thin jacket each, bees. meters of rope be sufficient?” and “What one liter of water, a few slings and just one I had discovered only a year ago just pro do you need?” and “Can I climb it ice axe. To make some sort of silly point, how dangerous my bee allergy is. After in running shoes?”) Rustom settled on Rustom decided to climb in running a backyard incident that prompted a Sahale. I was busy giving the evil eye to shoes. A good thing about aluminum trip to the ER to stave off anaphylaxis, anything that looked like a bee. strap-on crampons is that they do work I came under the care of a physician. I’d We wasted as much time as possible quite well with running shoes, so long as been under this treatment for less than sorting gear in the parking lot before you do not try to kick steps. The walk to a year—insuffithe summit pyramid cient time to was quick, after work up immuwhich we simulnity to another climbed halfway up sting. the rock. For the last I juggled bit we belayed each my concerns other up mainly due about the potento the exposure. tial need for We were back another trip to in camp twothe ER with a and-a-half hours pre-arranged after starting. We commitment to repacked quickly. meet a friend Rustom refueled of Caleb’s in on more bread, Concrete. cheese and salami. I We piled into declined so I would the car and left not have to throw Shuksan, the up. The goats were flies, the fallen Calem, ,left, and Rustom demonstrating their exquisite rope technique on Shuksan. Photo: Suresh Singh. back as were several trees and the bees marmots who were behind. After an hour of driving, signs for driving to the trailhead. The trail on harassing two newly arrived campers. an organic berry farm appeared along the Sahale is a lot better than the one on The flies were sorry to see us leave and side of the road. My dear friends insisted Shuksan and we walked up rather quickly escorted us most of the way down. I have we stop so they could pick berries. The to Cascade Pass and then on to the camp- a vague recollection of very beautiful fact that there are always a billion bees on site on Sahale Glacier. alpine meadows, but the pull of civilizaa berry farm and that I was breaking out There were no other people at camp, tion was too strong for me to linger. My in hives did not give them the least bit of but a mountain goat family was in resi- mind was focused on getting down and pause. So we stopped. I stayed in the car, dence. Judging by their disdain, they driving as fast as I could to the berry farm idly playing with my Epipen and popping would have preferred to continue in soli- where I could buy a pint of ice cream and Benadryl. tude. By 3:30 p.m. we were pretty well drown myself in it.

After 30 minutes of berry picking, we settled in and had nothing to do except It took three hours to get from baseheaded to Marblemount. By the time take turns staring at each other and the camp to the trailhead. By the end I was we got to the barbecue joint there, I was goats. A hummingbird visited and helped running down the trail, ignoring all the feeling really good. Benadryl does have with the fly problem. We ate an excel- cheery greetings directed at me by fresh that effect. Luckily Ira had the presence lent dinner of four-day-old bread, cheese hikers going up to the pass. On getting of mind to reserve a place to sleep and we and salami. The cheese and salami were into the parking lot we jumped into spent the night in the Buffalo Run Inn. sweating quite a bit due to the warmth of the car, cranked up the AC and raced Caleb and Ira left the next morning the day. Dinner took about 10 minutes, continued on next page

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Comedy of Errors, continued from previous page out, kicking up dust and gravel. We were grim-faced and could taste the ice cream and fresh berries that awaited us.

After an hour of desperate driving, we stumbled into the shop only to be greeted by a line of 10 people (yes, I counted). I was hoping our backcountry stink would drive away the well-dressed crowd, but they were made of sterner stuff. Eventually I got my dirty hands around a raspberry shortcake. For dessert I ate a pint of blueberry ice cream.

Later, over a dinner of a grilled 24-ounce buffalo steak, we plotted out our next climb. We considered Forbidden Peak, but concluded that after four days of hauling heavy backpacks, our shoulders were done.

The plan we settled on instead was to have a rest day and do an interesting scramble up Hidden Lake Peak via the North Ridge. In our typical pattern, we started out later than planned and lingered over a large breakfast. The logic (it made sense at the time) was that we would save time by not eating anything until evening. The walk was a lot of fun after we got to the ridge since it is pure granite and we could make it interesting by taking harder routes through the maze.

Rustom was wearing running shoes again and delighted in challenging me to bouldering problems he had already solved.

On the way down from the summit we began an impromptu race down the mountain. We must have run for the better part of an hour, and reached the parking lot sooner than expected.

Running in climbing boots is not something a podiatrist would recommend.

Also, given that we were not wearing helmets while running over boulders, a psychiatrist may have had something to say about our reckless disregard for safety.

An hour later we found ourselves at the berry farm again, doing unspeakable things to raspberry shortcakes. Two hours after that we were in rush hour traffic in downtown Seattle. One may ask why were we in downtown Seattle? The answer is shopping. Rustom wanted to check out new boots and other gear so we went to his favorite climbing store near the University of Washington. Then we boarded a ferry for the Olympic peninsula. We stayed with a friend who politely suggested that Rustom and I shower before dinner. After five days of being in the mountains, we had become immune to our own odor. I didn’t have any truly clean clothes but did have a t-shirt that had been worn only while driving. So I showered and put that on.

The next day, we drove to Port Angeles for breakfast (do you see a pattern here, dear reader?). We dawdled for a long time in the restaurant and left only when the waitress stopped filling our coffee cups or making eye contact. We decided to go up Mt. Angeles via the East Ridge, which is a Class 3-4 scramble with lots of exposure.

Halfway up the ridge I mentioned that it would have been a good idea to have brought our helmets along. It seemed like the helmets spent more time in the car than on our heads. I do not blame the helmets for that—it was a lot safer for them to be in the car than on our heads. We also did not have a rope or any climbing gear. In short it was interesting, but I was very happy to get away from that ridge.

The following day, our seventh, started early. Uncharacteristically, we ate a rushed breakfast on the 5 a.m. ferry into Seattle.

Our goal was to make it to The Tooth before other climbing parties showed up.

It being a Saturday, this was very likely, 26

Left: How long can we sit here so we can delay the climb to tomorrow?

Right: Caleb and Rustom on the summit of Shuksan, glad to be coming down soon. Photos: Suresh Singh.

and indeed, when we were done climbing, two groups of six and four were starting up.

The trail to The Tooth starts off on the main trail to Snow Lake. Then a climbers’ trail leads off to the left over a boulder field. Rustom “saw” the climbers trail before it actually starts and we ended up taking a rather more interesting route than necessary. It included fording a rapid stream right below a small waterfall.

When we finally reached The Tooth, we took another unplanned detour. To climb The Tooth, one goes around it first and the start is up a gully. We ended up climbing, unroped for most part, the pinnacle next to The Tooth. Finally we found the right spot to climb and got ready quickly. A mountain goat joined us, shadowing us the whole time, and made a number of dramatic leaps to show us how it is done.

We wasted time on the route trying to retrieve abandoned cams. We failed.

At the end we did come away with some booty—two carabiners and a rap ring.

The climb is easy but the hard part is the boulder hopping to get there. We again raced back to the parking lot, upsetting several hikers along the way and were back in Seattle by 4 p.m. I dropped my friend off at some random intersection downtown (and suggested he could find his way to the ferry) and drove back to Portland in time for beer and dinner and a bath.

So, You Would Like to Write a Hiking Guide?

One Writer’s Journey, Challenges and Rewards

A TrailMix group starts up the Timberline Trail from Timberline Lodge. Photo: Debbie Asakawa

by Sonia Buist

Many hikers, at one time or another, want to share their hiking experiences in the hope that they can encourage others to discover the joys of hiking too. My advice?

Think twice before embarking on the challenging task of writing and publishing a hiking guidebook.

In 1993 I decided I was tired of seeing the Mirror Lake parking lot overflowing with crowds of people hauling coolers and boomboxes up to the lake. There were so many rewarding trails on Mt. Hood and, on most of them, there were very few hikers. Surely the Mirror Lake crowd would happily try other trails if only they knew about them.

Clearly a comprehensive Mt. Hood hiking guidebook was called for. In my mind, success was guaranteed. Unfortunately, that isn’t the way it works. Most day hikers don’t bother with a map or directions, they just go back to the familiar.

This, then, is a description of what it takes to write a hiking guidebook—or my journey. The basic message is that it’s challenging, exciting and much, much harder that you ever realized.

In addition, you probably need to resign yourself to accepting the fact that writing a book is a labor of love, not a moneymaking project. But, along the way, you are confronted with many questions and answering them leads to surprising rewards.

Where to start? I wrote Hikes & Walks on Mt. Hood between 1993 and 1994. Hard to believe when there are now so many hiking guidebooks for Oregon. But, at that time, there were hardly any Oregon guides. Emily Keller, a pediatrician at Oregon Health & Science University and a friend and hiking buddy, was my co-conspirator. The plan was that we would hike the trails together, I would write the text and she would illustrate it with pen-and-ink sketches of the flowers on the mountain. We opted to go with pen-and-ink sketches as we chose a small book size, that could fit into a shirt or pants pocket for convenience. That size of book would make it essentially impossible to include high-quality photographs.

We started by getting all of the maps we could lay our hands on, all of the existing guidebooks, and all of the available Forest Service trail guides that dealt with the Government Camp and Timberline Lodge areas of Mt. Hood. We found a number of trails we didn’t know existed and that weren’t in any of the

guides. We found a few segments of the Oregon Trail where the wagon ruts were still visible. We then hiked all of the trails, made copious notes and took photos of the flowers. I wrote several drafts, Emily drew the maps and sketches of the flowers, and we invited friends who had never hiked these trails to read the descriptions, hike the trails and give us honest and detailed feedback. Some of our friends were very hiking- and map-savvy; others lacked basic orientation skills and seemed lost as soon as they set foot out of the car. But they all came back safely, loved the challenge and provided feedback that greatly improved the accuracy of my trail descriptions. Having every trail hiked by someone who didn’t know it was very important as safety is an overriding consideration for me when writing a guidebook.

In parallel with the hiking and writing, we explored options for publishing the book. Here we ran into a major barrier.

Regional hiking guides generally have a fairly limited audience, thus limited sales potential. There were a few small regional publishing companies but none were interested in a book that didn’t offer much potential for sales and I was an unknown guidebook writer even though I had an extensive publication record in my medical/scientific area as an academic physician.

The advice I consistently got was to self-publish, a daunting prospect and an expensive one! But, given the lack of options, we decided to self-publish. The name for our press came to me while I was hiking alone on the Tom, Dick and Harry Trail above Mirror Lake and looking down on the crowds: the name LOLITS Press for Little Old Ladies in Tennis Shoes seemed an apt description for two avid hikers of a certain age—although we actually wore hiking boots.

The result, Hikes & Walks on Mt. Hood, was a guidebook of 41 hikes in the Government Camp and Timberline Lodge areas of Mt. Hood. Hikes ranged in length from a half-mile to 13 miles and covered a wide range of difficulty ratings. Hikes & Walks on Mt. Hood was re-hiked and updated in 2007, mainly continued on next page

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Hiking Guide, continued from previous page to reflect changed signage. honest feedback. This was a true voyage undergrowth and wildflowers and chased The second book, Around Mt. Hood in of discovery. Neither of us had hiked up out the resident animals. Hiking on the Easy Stages, was born of the same disbelief most of the access trails before or hiked burned trails became dusty and hot. The as Hikes & Walks on Mt. Hood was. I started each of the segments in both directions. upside is that the views of Mt. Hood are to hike the Timberline Trail and couldn’t This gave us a new, fascinating look even more dramatic and fire is Mother understand why there were so few hikers at the Timberline Trail and even more Nature’s way of cleaning house. when this trail is so stunning and acces- respect for the amazing job the Civilian These events made it clear that it was sible. Why not write a guidebook and Conservation Corps had done in creating time to revise Around Mt. Hood in Easy tell others what an amazing treasure they this trail.

Stages. We used the same approach: hike have on their doorstep? Once again, I was We published Around Mt. Hood in all of the segments in both directions, struck by the fact that most of the hikers Easy Stages under the LOLITS Press send novice hikers out to test the instrucI met on the trail weren’t carrying either a label in 1997. Although the Timberline tions and maps and revise as needed. map or guidebook, and in fact there was Trail didn’t move and there were few Unfortunately, my co-conspirator, Emily actually no guidebook that covered the upgrades of the signage, events in 2006 Keller, was unable to participate in the whole of the Timberline Trail. What an and 2011 changed the trail dramati- revision. But I had the good fortune to opportunity to fill the gap and introduce cally. The Eliot Glacier washout in 2006 be introduced to Debbie Asakawa who both experienced hikers and hikers who created the 150-foot Eliot Creek Chasm started and leads Trailmix, a group of had never put a foot on Mt. Hood to the on the north side between Elk Cove and 140+ women hikers in Portland. Debbie delights of the Timberline Trail and the Cloud Cap. The mountainside there was undertook the daunting task of having her less-accessible north side of the moun- so unstable that crossing the chasm was hikers tackle all of the segments in both tain. Or at least directions using that was the story the text from the we told ourselves first edition. to silence our inner Tr a i l m i x doubts at the prosprovided invalupect of undertaking able feedback another, even bigger, on a number of challenge. aspects of the first Emily and I used edition. The first the same strategy for feedback they this book as we had gave was that the first: We tracked the hikes can’t be down all of the called “Easy,” so maps, trail guides ditch that word and books that in the title. Done; included material on good advice. the Timberline Trail. Mt. Hood can be seen clearly through the burned trees from the Elk Cove Trail on the north side of Mt. Hood.

Second was to Our challenge was to Photo: Dale Rush add a few shorter come up with a way hikes for those to make the 41-mile Timberline Trail into very dangerous and thus the trail in that intimidated by the length and difficulty day hikes rather than a backpack trip. area was closed until mid-summer 2013. of the segments and stress that the book Our solution was to break the trail into Fixing this has proved very challenging describes day hikes. Again, good advice. eight segments and describe how to use and will require huge financial resources The next feedback was to improve the access trails to get up to and down and a great deal of political support. The the elevation charts and fact-check the from the Timberline Trail. To make the leading option at this point is to re-direct distances. For the first edition, we had segments day hikes, we recommended the trail a long way down Eliot Creek and used the existing maps, Forest Service that hikers use the strategy of a car swap back up, creating a huge detour. trail descriptions (very few existed) and or car shuttle. The alternative was always Fires also damaged the trail. The largest had digitized all of the trails from the to go up and back or create a loop hike was the Dollar Lake Fire in the summer of best available maps. In an effort to ensure (possible for some, but not all, of the 2011, which burned 6,300 acres. Several maximum accuracy, I decided to use GPS segments). We also decided that we would of the access trails on the north-side ridges for the second edition in the hope that describe all of the hikes both in the clock- of Mt. Hood were affected, including this would provide accurate distances wise and counterclockwise directions. the beautiful Mazama Trail and some of and elevation loss and gain informaThe next step was to hike all of the the Timberline Trail itself. At first glance tion. This led to the interesting discovery segments, write them up and invite the fires would seem to be a disaster that all of the existing methods of estiothers to test the instructions and give as they burned huge swaths of forest, mating distances have built-in errors. For

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example, the errors from GPS will depend on the frequency of accumulating data points. The greater the number of data points, the greater the accuracy. You only have to compare the existing published maps of any trails to see that there are major discrepancies, sometimes of several miles. The reality is that the most accurate estimate needs a wheel run over the whole distance of a trail, and even this has the potential for error as all trails have lumps and bumps and rocks.

Indeed, some have river crossings.

In the end, after exploring the reasons for the discrepancies with the help of Susan Nestor, a friend who was helping with the revision, we decided to go with the distances in the Mt. Hood Area Hiking, Riding and Climbing Map, published by Adventure Maps Inc. This company had combined many different methods of estimating distances to arrive at what they considered to be the most accurate. Truth be told, even then some of the test hikers were quite upset to be told that a segment they were absolutely convinced was at least 12 miles was only 9.7 miles!

The revised Timberline Trail book was reborn as Around & About Mount Hood: Exploring the Timberline Trail, Access Trails and Day Hikes. The second edition is completely updated and includes a map of each hike, elevation charts, a list of wildflowers commonly seen on each hike with Emily’s lovely pen-and-ink sketches, interesting trivia and Mt. Hood lore, and sections on the fires and the disappearance of the glaciers on Mt. Hood.

Information on both books can be found on the LOLITS Press website www.mthoodhiking.com.

Recently I took a friend with very bad, painful arthritis on the short trail from Top Spur Trailhead to Bald Mountain so she could see the view of Mt. Hood that is on the cover of Around & About Mount Hood. Negotiating the 0.5 mile trail from the trailhead to the Pacific Crest Trail (over a gazillion tree roots running across the trail) took almost an hour. But the thrill of accomplishing this and seeing the views and wildflowers was the unforgettable reward, both for her and for me.

It is my hope, as an avid hiker and teacher, that more people will discover the hiking treasures we have on Mt. Hood. There is truly something there for everyone.

Vignettes from the Laos and Vietnam Outing

by Kate Evans

Hmong grandmother and grandson.

Photo: Unknown.

Introduction

Our Laos and Vietnam outing, ably led by Greg Justice and assisted by John Leary, began on Feb. 28 in Bangkok, Thailand, where we crammed in a lot of sightseeing: a walk through Chinatown, a riverboat ride, visits to Wat Pho (site of the 51-foot long, 49-foot tall reclining Buddha), the National Museum, the Grand Palace where the Emerald Buddha (which is actually jade) resides, the Royal Barges Museum and Wat Arun. That night we took a sleeper train to Chang Mai then a bus to Chang Rai, where we spent the next night. On March 4 we crossed into Laos and took a riverboat up the Mekong River to spend the night at Pak Beng and then continued to Luang Prabang.

After a day exploring Luang Prabang, we started our next adventure with Green Discovery Eco Tours. We mountain biked to a village and pottery place and then stayed at a park near beautiful waterfalls. Next day we biked and hiked uphill to Ban Phou Luang Tai, a Hmong village, where we spent a wild and stormy night. We then had another day in Luang Prabang where we watched the monks collect their 6 a.m. alms, helped at the library and then visited the UXO Museum, the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Center, Ock Pop Tok for traditional weaving and dyeing, and Phu Si. We flew to Hanoi on March 12. continued on next page 29

Vietnam, continued from previous page

flew more than 500,000 Unfortunately in Laos bombing runs over Laos’ many of us had stomach Ho Chi Minh Trail—a problems, with Greg Justice planeload of bombs suffering the worst. Greg led every eight minutes, 24 us from the Hanoi airport to hours a day, for nine the Hanoi train station where years. About 300,000 he left the group to return cluster bombs (a canister to the Northwest, turning filled with 800 small the lead over to John Leary. bombs) were dropped We took the night train to over the nine years of Sapa. There, Sapa O-Chau, war in Laos. The canister a Hmong-owned trekking breaks open in mid-air company, took us on three Mazama Vietnam Outing Group in Luang Prabang: back row: John Leary, Ron Ferguson, and the “bombies,” as separate trips. Two groups Dyanne Foster, Ken Frazer; second row: Sharon Leary, Kate Evans, Linda Machtelinckx; they are called in Laos, front row: Randy Selig, Marilyn Syverson, Mary Frazer, Greg Justice, Elizabeth Burke, Linda did either one- or two-day Prinsen. Photographer: hotel manager. are released and cover treks and home stays, and an area the size of three the third group climbed Mt. soccer fields. A single • 9—number of travel methods used Fansipan and did a trek and home-stay.

by Mazamas on their trip: airplane, bombie has a killing radius of about 100 On March 17 we returned by train to long boat, bicycles, hiking, song feet. More than one third, or 78 million, Hanoi, which we explored for two more taew (open-air local buses), tuk of them failed to detonate on impact and days. Joanne Fitzgerald led a walking tuk, train, van and tractor (the sag when disturbed they can still explode, tour to Hoam, Kiek Lake and Ngoc injuring and killing innocent civilians as wagon).

Son Temple, the Vietnamese History • 249—cumulative total of ages for they go about their daily activities. The Museum and the Hua Loa prison (aka the four Mazama climbers who shape (like a baseball) and color make the Hanoi Hilton). In the evening some climbed Mt. Fansipan in Vietnam, them attractive to children, who often of us saw a delightful water puppet show. the highest peak in Indochina and pick them up and play with them.

The next day we had a guided tour and Between 1996 and 2007 only 0.47 the eastern-most peak of the Himasaw the Tran Quoc Pagoda, Ho Chi percent of the bombies had been cleared. layas.

Minh Mausoleum, Vietnam Museum of • 4—foods you could always find on One person is killed almost every day Ethnology, the Temple of Literature and our trip: rice, bananas, white bread from UXOs in Laos, making it the the Vietnamese Women’s Museum. Most country with the most post-conflict casuand Magnum ice cream bars. of us flew home on March 19.

• 15,000—dong, the price of a cup of alties in the world.

When our group was discussing an coffee in Vietnam (50 cents).

Annual article about our outing, Linda The Luang Prabang Library, Laos Prinsen had a splendid idea: each participant would write about a favorite memory. UXO Museum, Luang Prabang, Laos

by Marilyn Syverson So here they are:

by John Leary My heart is still at the Luang Prabang, Laos, library. It’s a very small building Numbers A very sad and sobering stop along in the center of the town that hosts our trip was a visit to the UXO (unexby Linda Prinsen a number of projects to support the ploded ordinance) Visitor Center in surrounding Hmong villages. The most One of my favorite publications has Luang Prabang. It features a simple impressive is a project that invites people a numbers page. The numbers for the but very informative exhibition about to buy a book for $3 to go to one of the trip to Thailand, Laos and Vietnam are the existence of UXOs in Laos and the villages. When the library accumulates efforts made to clear them. The exhias follows: a certain number of books, they deliver • $2,000,000 a day for nine years— bition includes well-summarized and them by one of the riverboats. The library amount spent by the United States informative posters and dioramas of the also provides a wonderful opportunity bombing Laos during the Vietnam different UXO bombs that were cleared every afternoon for locals to practice their War in efforts to shut down the Ho and extracted throughout Laos.

English with tourists. I participated in Laos has the unwanted distinction of Chi Minh Trail. this delightful project during three days • 60—number of years of reign for being the most-bombed country in the and met wonderful people and learned the king of Thailand, longest living world, and the Ho Chi Minh Trail is about Laos and its lifestyle. the most heavily bombed tract of land monarch in the world. in the country. During the war the U.S. 30

The Monks of Luang Prabang, Laos

by Elizabeth Burke

Seeing the Buddhist monks in Luang Prabang, Laos, is inspirational. Monks are dressed in beautiful orange robes secured with a sash around the waist and are barefoot or in sandals. Their hair is kept closely cropped. Early in the morning we observed monks leaving their monasteries in a silent single line, each with an alms bowl in hand. Lay people wait for them along a predetermined route and put gifts of food or incense into the bowls as the monks pass by. The gifts gathered sustain the monasteries and the alms-givers receive spiritual merit, thereby resulting in a symbiotic relationship between the community and the monasteries.

Primitive Home-Stay, Laos

by Mary Frazer

One of the most memorable aspects of our southeast Asia trip was visiting a remote Hmong village in Laos. We cycled a few hours from our first village home-stay along hot, dusty roads and through several villages. Small curious children greeted us along the way with a welcoming “Sa bai dee!” We then took off on foot through rolling hills and up steep jungle trails to our destination.

The primitive village was quite large, yet very clean and orderly, with many huts constructed of bamboo. After reaching our designated campsite, we sat down in the shade to rest for a few minutes. Small children arrived slowly, one by one. They quietly watched us from a distance. As we started to unpack our gear, the children couldn’t help but approach us for a closer inspection. It wasn’t long before the campsite was alive with children running around and laughing. They watched in amazement as we disappeared in our tents and blew up our Thermarests. One of the things I’ll always remember is the gentle and caring nature of the villagers and the way each child looked after the younger brothers and sisters.

Ban Phou Luang Tai, Laos

by Linda Machtelinckx

After a day and a half of mountain biking in the lush back country of Laos, we transitioned to hiking. We left a village in the valley and started uphill. It was very hot and there were hardly any flat areas where we could catch our breath, but we finally arrived at Ban Phou Luang Tai, a Hmong village, where I just wanted to be on a flat ground.

Our young guides led us to our camp area on top of the hill overlooking the village. We soon became an attraction to a number of young children who were climbing the boulders around the little flat surface available for our tents.

The children were intrigued by the tents and our camping gear. Like magicians pulling all sorts of things out of a hat, we were pulling out of our backpacks blankets, mattresses and much more. When I started inflating my air mattress, a bunch of young girls clogged the entrance of my little tent and, hesitantly, started scratching the fabric of what was slowly becoming a bed. Once our little fabric village was set up, I sat down and started drawing.

Soon, children clustered around me and chuckled while watching the white page of my little notebook becoming the reflection of the candid and soiled face of one of the young girls in front of me.

This particular night, the real clouds made the sky cry; lightning, thunder, heavy rain and strong wind forced most of us to move our tents out of the mud and set them up under the eave of the lodge’s thatched roof. When daylight filtered through my tent, heavy clay was sticking to my sleeping bag and also my boots and socks, which I had dragged inside during the deluge. When I opened the zipper of my tent, however, the most beautiful and startling image appeared from the mud.

In front of me was a little girl, crouched down in the sticky clay soil with her chin resting in her hands. How long had she 31

been there? Silently and patiently she was waiting for her magical moment: What would emerge from that big cocoon? She remained transfixed by the human larva slowly extracting herself from her sheath.

Camping in a Hmong Village, Laos

by Ron Ferguson

The trip description said that after a two-and-a-half hour trek uphill we would be staying in an eco-lodge in Ban Phou Luang Tai. After a quick walk through the eco-lodge, I knew I would opt to sleep another night in the tents our guides provided. Perhaps I should have reconsidered when we all noticed a storm developing in the distance as we all retired. I joined my new bunkmate, our fearless leader Greg, and we tried to attach the rain fly, but there seemed to be a few parts continued on next page

Vietnam, continued from previous page missing. At least Greg had the foresight to suggest we put our packs in the lodge, but I think that had more to do with the pigs than the potential weather.

I thought my watch said 3 o’clock when the storm hit, and I was feeling pretty good that we had gotten through most of the night. Then I put on my glasses and saw it was just after midnight and we had a ways to go. The rain was coming down in buckets and the wind gusting and lightning lit up the sky as we tried to zip up the windows we had left open for ventilation. The next morning we crawled out of our tent to a scene of mud and knocked-down tents and learned that we were the only two to survive the night outside in a tent. Did that prove evidence of survival skills or just poor decision-making?

Laotian Eco-lodge II

by Randy Selig

They told us there were no bathroom facilities in the Hmong village. Fine for me; it would be just like backpacking.

Leave no trace. Can do. But for a village of 200 people? Nice wooden houses and kids everywhere. A freshwater spring was just downhill. And although the village was built on hardpan clay, it was clean

and neat and loaded up with the villagers’ wealth—an endless mob of pigs, piglets, dogs (edible), ducks, geese, chickens, goats and a dwarf horse or two. But what about the waste products? No latrine in sight. And how could one find a moment of privacy in the bushes with all these children?

The question of privacy became more important in the morning. At least there weren’t any children hanging around to see the debacle of our collapsed tents. It was the opportune moment to make a liquid deposit, perhaps a solid one also, in the shrubs surrounding our eco-lodge.

I stole away, searching for the right spot.

But I was discovered and tailed by one large pig, with several others hovering in the background. I lowered my pants and squatted. But then the pig approached my derriere and I had to bat her away, struggling to keep my balance. She came at me again and I shoved her away. Then as I stood up, pulling up my pants, the pig descended on the small pool of liquid I had deposited on the wet clay soil. She slurped it up and looked around for more.

Now I knew how the village stayed so clean and tidy: an instant clean-up crew; a mobile vacuum cleaner for any and all waste products; an intimate humanporcine, symbiotic relationship. People feed the pigs before the pigs feed the 32

people. A brave new world of shared DNA.

Height

by Ken Fraser

Upon my return from this outing a co-worker asked, “What was the first thing that you noticed?” Expecting to hear an obvious societal or cultural difference, he was taken aback by my answer, “That I am tall.” With a puzzled look he responded, “That you’re tall? You’re not that tall.”

He was right—I’m not that tall.

Reaching a modest height of six feet and one inch, I walk among tall people all day and do not consider myself one of them.

However, in the land of the six-foot door frame, I felt tall for the first time since a nine-inch growth spurt in the summer of 1979.

Arriving at our hotel in Bangkok at 1 a.m. after a long flight, all I wanted to do was brush my teeth and go to bed. I hit my head on the door frame on the way into the bathroom. I hadn’t done that before and it kind of hurt. Walking back out into the sleeping area, I bumped my head again. Oh yeah, the door frame. An excusable mistake; I was tired and my short-term memory was shot. Some sleep

Left: Three novice monks crossing a bamboo bridge over the Nam Khan in Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo: Ken Frazer.

Right: Photographer unknown.

will fix that.

That next morning, I hit my head again entering the bathroom. As I was examining in the mirror the nicesized bump now forming on the top of my head, I mumbled to myself, “I can’t believe I just did that. When am I going to learn?” I ducked on the way out of the bathroom. Progress!

Still smarting after breakfast, I was happy to get outside where above me was only sky. I was quickly relieved of that notion 20 feet down the sidewalk when I hit my head on a metal bar holding an awning. I didn’t seem safe anywhere.

With each subsequent bump being more painful than the last, I was finally making conscious efforts of ducking while walking under awnings or through doorways. It became a habit, and the problem largely, but not completely, disappeared. Now if I could only stop ducking under sevenfoot doorways back here in the States.

Hanoi Traffic, Vietnam

by Joanne Fitzgerald

I didn’t feel safe. Stepping off the curb in Hanoi was the most frightening part of the trip. Imagine crossing a street with at least 75 motorbikes and 10 cars coming directly at you without slowing. That is how it’s done. Focus and take a deep breath and step into oncoming traffic. There is no break in the traffic to wait for. The most important point to remember in this death-defying experience is to keep a steady pace.

The drivers will predict your speed and miss you. Now that is faith! I know of one woman who paid a local to help her get across the street. And I heard Saigon is 10 times worse than Hanoi.

Trekking in Sapa, Vietnam

by Sharon Leary

The alternative to climbing Mt. Fansipan was trekking through the

hills of Sapa to the villages. This northern part of Vietnam is blessed with a magical beauty, often shrouded in a mystical fog.

The experience was complete with unique sights you would see on few trails at home: vistas of terraced farmland, scenic valleys and beautiful mountains. Our overnights while trekking were at home-stays, with comfortable accommodations and tasty meals prepared by the hosts. One village grew indigo that was used locally to dye the fabric they wove from flax fibers. Local crafts were mostly textiles, and several of us are now the lucky owners of colorful quilt tops, purses, bags and wall hangings. The hill tribe people are relentless salespeople, and there was never a lost moment for a shopping opportunity.

Climbing Mt. Fansipan, Vietnam

by Kate Evans

During the Vietnam War, Linda Machtlelinckx, Dyanne Foster, John Leary and I could never have imagined that we would one day be on top of Mt. Fansipan in northern Vietnam. Fansipan, or Fancypants as dubbed by the group, is 3,143 meters tall (10,311 feet), the highest point in Indochina and the easternmost peak in the Himalayas. The climb began at Tram Tom Pass, 1,995 meters (6,545 feet). So we were just climbing 3,766 feet—less than Mt. Defiance, right?

Wrong! The accumulated elevation was much more than Mt. Defiance, and the climb was much more difficult.

The route involved a long traverse through a pine forest, up and down numerous gullies, through streams, and over large boulders and tree roots. Later, steeper sections also had an interesting handrail—a cementencased cable made to look like bamboo. We were guided by three young Hmong from Sapa O’Chau, 33

a Hmong-owned trekking company, who cut bamboo poles and carried sleeping bags, mats that looked like multi-colored jigsaw puzzles, food and prepared meals. The group stayed in a large shelter, a very noisy experience. Amazingly, the camp had a toilet with running water (if you count a hose coming down from a cistern to the toilet). The summit?

We had no clear views, just brooding clouds and blowing mist, but we still enjoyed this unique climb.

Overall we enjoyed fabulous food and sights and wonderful company on our Laos-Vietnam outing. We especially enjoyed interacting with the young novice monks in the Luang Prabang library and the Hmong villagers, especially the children.

Thanks, Greg and John, for planning and leading such a great trip.

Dates: Feb. 28 – March 12, 2013 Participants: Greg Justice, leader; John Leary, assistant leader; Elizabeth Burke, Kate Evans, Ron Ferguson, Joanne Fitzgerald, Dyanne Foster, Ken Frazer, Mary Frazer, Sharon Leary, Linda Machtelinckx, Linda Prinsen, Randy Selig, Marilyn Syverson.

Clockwise, from left page: Sunset glow over Smith Lake, Trinity Alps Wilderness. Photo: Al Papesh.

Below Pinnacle Peak on the traverse from Castle Peak. Pam Gilmer in the lead. Photo: Bob Breivogel.

Suzanne Lee admires the ice in Hyalite Canyon (Bozeman, Montana).

Photo: Andrew Holman.

Derek Castonguay demonstrates ice climbing technique at the MMC. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Matthew Sundling climbing Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Clockwise, from top: John Meckel locating the route to Bowerman Meadows in the Trinity Alps Wilderness. Photo: Al Papesh Heather Campbell loves some chips. Photo: Al Papesh.

A serene tarn in Indian Basin, Wind River Range (WY). Photo: Chelsea Heveran.

Rephotographing Glaciers in the American West

by Hassan J. Basagic

Perched high and precariously with my tripod on the edge of a cliff overlooking South Tahoma Glacier in Mount Rainier National Park, I saw something through my camera viewfinder that puzzled me. My goal was to recreate the vantage of a historical photograph taken more than a century ago for the Glacier RePhoto Project. The cramped conditions on the small ledge were made worse by tree branches that were not present in the photograph taken a hundred years ago. I glanced back and forth between the printed photograph and the scene before me. I expected the glacier to have retreated, but the magnitude of retreat gave me pause. The South Tahoma Glacier had retreated two miles up the slopes of Mt. Rainier. Witnessing the glacier retreat from the ground can be a profound experience difficult to convey in words.

An excellent alternative to being in the actual location is the pairing of historical and modern photographs, known as repeat photography (Figure 1).

Glacier retreat is the most visible sign of climate change in alpine regions. Glaciers are sensitive to long-term changes in snowfall and air temperature and respond by shrinking or expanding. Over the past century, temperate glaciers have been shrinking in response to a changing climate (1, 2). Knowledge of historical glacier fluctuations

can provide important information about past climates in remote regions. Historic glacier photographs provide insights into past climates by capturing the glacier’s extent and physical character. Repeat photography is particularly helpful to determine how glaciers have changed. Some camera locations, or photo stations, have been visited multiple times over the past century, providing a unique time series of glacier change.

The results provide a virtual time machine, allowing past and present conditions to be compared.

The photographs also assist scientists in quantifying glacier change (3, 4).

Repeat photographs of glaciers have been collected intermittently by various individuals and organizations over the past century.

However, because no comprehensive compilation of repeat photogFigure 1. The South Tahoma Glacier terminus was covered by rock debris and surrounded by forest in 1906. The glacier has retreated two miles raphy exists for the up the side of Mt. Rainier over the past century. Arrows point to the glacier terminus in both frames. (1906 by unknown photographer, Library of American West, Congress; Sept. 19, 2012; rephotograph by H. Basagic) 34

Figure 2. A three-frame sample from the database illustrates the advance of the Nisqually Glacier on Mt. Rainier in the 1960s and 1970s, followed by glacier retreat in the 1990s and 2000s. (Sept. 9, 1964, by F. M. Veatch, National Snow and Ice Data Center; 1978 by D.R. Crandell, U.S. Geological Survey; Sept. 20, 2012, rephotograph by H. Basagic)

the photographs remain scattered in various collections, archives and reports, resulting in a fragmented view of the glacier-change story. This fragmentation makes unclear which glaciers have a history of repeated photographs and when they were taken.

The Glacier RePhoto Project is compiling existing photographic records in the American West and updating the record by rephotographing some of the glaciers. The resulting database creates a central location for the photographs and includes information on trail access and photo station coordinates that will make future rephotography easier. The database will be available online so that scientists and the general public can download the images and initiate their own record of glacier change.

A rich history of glacier repeat photography Repeat photography has long been recognized as an important method for landscape change detection. The method was introduced in the late 1880s to estimate the motion of glaciers in the European Alps (5). In the American West, early explorers and U.S. Geological Survey scientists were the first to use repeat photography to detect change. Harry Fielding Reid (6) highlighted the importance of repeat photography to study change in the region and established photo stations for the purposes of repeating photography in the future. G.K. Gilbert (7) reinforced the importance of this method by providing the first examples at glaciers in Yosemite National Park.

Mountaineering organizations, including the Mazamas, began collecting photographs of mountains and glaciers as a way to chronicle their explorations. Many of these photographs record the boundaries of glaciers and serve as early casual measurements. Coordinated measurements for the western U.S. began in the 1930s and 1940s when the American Geophysical Union’s Committee on Glaciers worked with organizations to monitor glaciers (8). The organizations included the National Park Service, the U.S. Geological Survey, the Mazamas Research Committee, the Sierra Club and university professors. Some organizations continued to collect repeat photographs for several decades, but by the 1970s most systematic repeat photo programs were abandoned. However, some photo stations were intermittently photographed by individuals to maintain the photographic record and for academic purposes.

In 1997, the U.S. Geological Survey began to systematically search park archives and collect repeat photographs in Glacier National Park (9). By 2002, the Glaciers of the American West

project at Portland State University had initiated a glacier inventory and had started to compile more than 15,000 historic and contemporary glacier photographs (http://glacier.us). As part of this project, I began collecting repeat photographs in the Sierra Nevada in 2003. I was fascinated by repeat photography and documented the locations of established repeat photo stations throughout the Sierra Nevada Range. As my glacier research expanded into other regions, I was surprised to discover many forgotten historical repeat photograph stations. Outside interest in my glacier repeat photographs and their locations prompted me to expand my efforts. In 2012, I was awarded a Mazamas Research Grant and an American Alpine Club Nikwax Alpine Bellwether Grant to build a photographic database of repeat photographs for the glacier-clad volcanoes in the Pacific Northwest.

Building the database and capturing rephotographs I began compiling glacier repeat photographs and associated metadata (photographer, date, location) from archives, photo collections and reports, then sorting them into a database. The location of any photograph without coordinates was initially estimated using Google Earth and aerial photography. These coordinates assisted in planning how to access the photo stations in the field. Field excursions were planned for late summer and early fall when seasonal snow cover is at a minimum. An effort was made to mimic the month and day of the original photograph when known.

In September and early October of 2012 I visited Mt. Shasta, Three Sisters, Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier and Mt. Baker. Each volcano had a unique glacier photo record. On Mt. Shasta, I set out to reoccupy photo stations established by Philip Rhodes in the 1970s. I was fortunate to meet up with Rhodes for the first day of photographic surveys on Hotlum Glacier.

Rhodes was invaluable in assigning routes to stations and sharing his observations. At Mt. Hood, I retraced the steps of Harry F. Reid who first established the photo record in 1901 (6) with help from the Mazamas. Smoke from a forest fire on Mt. Adams made good photography impossible and reminded me that random events, including weather, can get in the way. Numerous photo stations were discovered at Mt. Rainier, the result of monitoring efforts by the National Park Service and the U.S. Geological Society (10). Few photo stations were established at Mt. Baker, continued on next page 35

Glaciers, continued from previous page but several new repeat photo stations were established from historical photographs.

Only a few of these photo stations had known coordinates and because of this, relocating them in the field was exciting and, at times, frustrating.

The search was initially guided by the coordinates estimated from Google Earth. Once at the approximate location, the exact location was determined by aligning landscape features in the historical photograph and matching them in the field view (11). Access to the photo stations varied greatly from short walks on paved trails to overnight cross-country trips.

In the 2012 field season, I reoccupied 40 photo stations on the volcanoes of the Pacific Northwest and established 15 new photo stations based on historical photographs. Unfortunately, 12 other stations were not able to be photographed as the stations were either destroyed by erosion or overgrown with vegetation.

Overall, the repeat photographs reveal the loss in glacier area and volume, changes in tree line and, to some degree, erosion over the 20th century. All glaciers photographed are smaller now than a century ago. Many glaciers did advance somewhat during the 1960s and 1970s. Most of this advance appears to have been erased over the past several

decades with the exception of a few glaciers, including Whitney Glacier on Mt. Shasta. One of the benefits of the photo database is comparing multiple photos taken over the past century to determine when changes have occurred.

A time lapse view can be produced for photo stations with numerous repeat photos at a frame-rate interval of years to decades (Figure 2).

Pioneer vegetation has begun to occupy higher elevations, including the area vacated by glacier retreat, especially at the higher latitude volcanoes of Mt. Rainier and Mt. Baker. Some photographs show erosion of moraines, particularly at Eliot Glacier on Mt. Hood, and this is to be expected due to the over-steepened walls on the lateral moraines and the frequency of human traffic over these features (Figure 3).

A growing database of images In late summer 2013, I visited Mt. Adams and the Sierra Nevada to continue documenting the location of stations and acquiring repeat photographs. On Mt. Adams, I again followed the footsteps of Harry Reid to rephotograph his 1901 images of the Klickitat and Mazama glaciers (Figure 4). Both of these glaciers have lost surface area and volume. In the Sierra Nevada, I photographed glaciers from stations that I had visited when I started my

research. The visual loss of ice had more meaning for me, having experienced the glacier 10 years prior. I also documented new stations at Middle Palisade, Palisade, Conness and Dana Glaciers. The dry conditions allowed these glaciers to be photographed free of snow. Snow storms in late September halted further fieldwork, but I was able to add 23 repeat photographs to the Glacier RePhoto Project database. The database now contains more than 1,000 repeat photographs from 180 photo stations. The project is also receiving contributions from individuals working in other regions. A network of photographers is beneficial as the window of time to collect photographs is narrow and subject to weather and fire conditions.

Glacier repeat photography is an important tool for communicating climate change in a direct visual manner and assists scientists in quantifying glacier change. The images relay information that the climate is not only changing in faraway places but also within the American West. Immediate plans for the Glacier RePhoto Project are to provide access to all photographs and locations through our website and to continue to document other glacier regions in the American West. The database would make an ideal platform for other regions in the world as well.

Figure 3. The Eliot Glacier on Mt. Hood. In addition to the loss of ice, the lateral moraine has eroded and a hikers’ trail now crosses through the frame. (1901 photograph

by H.F. Reid, Mazamas Archive; Sept. 16, 2012, rephotograph by H. Basagic)

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Figure 4. The Klickitat Glacier on Mt. Adams. The glacier terminus has retreated by one kilometer over the past century.

Arrows point to the glacier terminus in both frames. (1901 photograph by H.F. Reid, National Snow and Ice Data Center; Aug. 31, 2013, rephotograph by H. Basagic)

Check out more photos and maps on the web: //rephoto.glaciers.us This project is conducted in collaboration with Andrew Fountain and the Glaciers of the American West project at Portland State University (//glaciers. us). Funding was received through a 2012 Mazama Research Grant and an American Alpine Club Nikwax Alpine Bellwether Grant.

(1) Dyurgerov, M.B., and M.F. Meier, 2000. Twentieth century climate change: Evidence from small glaciers. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 97: 1406–1411.

(2) McCabe, G.J., and A.G. Fountain, 2013. Glacier variability in the conterminous United States during the twentieth century. Climate Change, 116, 565-577.

(3) Hoffman, M.J., Fountain, A.G., and J.M. Achuff, 2007. Twentieth‐century variations in area of cirque glaciers and glacierets, Rocky Mountain National Park, Rocky Mountains, Colorado. Annals of Glaciology, 46, 349‐354.

(4) Basagic, H.J., and A.G. Fountain, 2011. Quantifying 20th Century Glacier Change in the Sierra Nevada, California. Arctic, Antarctic, and Alpine Research, 43: 317‐330.

(5) Webb, R.H., Turner, R. M., and D.E. Boyer, 2010, in R. H. Webb, Boyer, Diane E., Turner, Raymond M., eds., Repeat photography: methods and applications in the natural sciences. Island Press, Washington DC. p 3 -11.

(6) Reid, H.F., 1906. Studies of Mount Hood and Mount Adams. Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, Band i, 161-181.

(7) Gilbert, G. K., 1904. Variations of Sierra Glaciers. Sierra Club Bulletin, [v(]1[)]:20-25 (8) Matthes, F. E., 1944. Report of committee on glaciers, 1943-1944. Transactions, American Geophysical Union: 677-683.

(9) Fagre, D. B., and L. A. McKeon, 2010. Documenting disappearing glaciers: Repeat photography at Glacier National Park, Montana. In R. H. Webb,

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Boyer, D.E., Turner, Raymond M., eds., Repeat photography: methods and applications in the natural sciences. Island Press, Washington D.C., pp. 77-88.

(10) Veatch, F.M., 1969. Analysis of a 24-year photographic record of Nisqually Glacier, Mount Rainier National Park, Washington: U.S. Geological Survey Professional Paper 631, 52.

(11) Harrison, A.E., 1974. Reoccupying unmarked camera stations for geological observations. Geology, 2 [(9)]: 469‐471.

Hassan Basagic rephotographing the Coe Glacier on Mt. Hood from where Harry F. Reid stood in 1901.

Photo: Rhonda Robb

Mazama Outings—2013 and prayer flags—in contrast to upscale shopping streets for wealthy Chinese tourists where we Americans feel excluded by price and glitz. Underlying all is an awareness of Chinese security and army barracks filled with drilling young troops.

Conversations with our Tibetan guides gave us each an opportunity to reflect on the transforming reality that is modern Lhasa.

Exploring the History and Culture of Tibet Sept. 29–Oct. 19, 2013

by Eugene Lewins

After several days gathering our team and sightseeing in China, we arrived by the world’s highest train journey in Lhasa, the fabled and previously closed capital of Tibet. We visited the iconic Potala Palace, an Indiana Jones-like warren of corridors, ancient staircases and looming gold tombs of previous Dalai Lamas. It was pressed with hundreds of Tibetan farmers and nomads on their own pilgrimage through the sacred chapels of the Johkang Temple, rich with incense, statues and chants of devotion. Markets in Lhasa bustle with local foods, beads

But Lhasa was just the jumping-off point for a trip deep into the Tibet Autonomous Region. Packed in questionably maintained vehicles with mediocre tires, we headed out through lush farmland at a “lowland” of 12,000 feet.

Harvest time looked like a Bruegel painting of rural activity with flocks of workers following a two-stroke tractor or horse as they gathered sheaths and stacked hay. Songs accompanied their work. Prosperous-looking square houses, decked with drying dung for the winter, were big enough to fit both crops and animals in the lower floor.

It was easy to romanticize this idyllic pastoral life untouched by the pollution and compromise of the city. Yet when we stopped for lunch at a busy market village—kids’ faces pushed to the restaurant window to see what was perhaps their first white tourist—we were mobbed by old women and young mothers begging for small change.

Three days of travel over high passes took us deep into nomad country— occasional solo figures herding sheep and goats, black-skinned yak tents, wide-open spaces. Gratifyingly, we saw many herds of wild ass and antelope, road-side hawks and a treat of two rare black-necked cranes—the tallest birds in Tibet at more than four feet— displaying their mating ritual in a road-

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side wetland.

We arrived at the start of our threeday trek around Mount Kailash—sacred pilgrimage to both Buddhists and Hindus—at the same time as a Himalayan snowstorm was brewing to the south. Boldly we seized the day, gaining intimate views of the pure white cone of the unclimbed mountain (its summit untouched for religious reasons), following local pilgrims and monks into a deep canyon-like passageway through the mountains where landmarks have been named over centuries as spiritual icons. But the next morning, with weather deteriorating and a 18,500-foot pass ahead, we turned back. A poignant choice, with not a few regretful glances over our shoulders.

A day later, we were almost trapped overnight in a convoy of cars as we crawled across a foot of fresh snow to reach the Friendship Highway between Lhasa and Kathmandu. Winter had indeed come early. Our next agenda of visiting Everest Base Camp had to be struck from the list. Instead we made an orderly retreat toward Lhasa, toward showers and heated hotel rooms, taking time to visit monasteries and absorb more of the history, the rich colors and smells and the spectacular views across the valleys and hills of Tibet.

Will we return to try the spiritual tour, the kora, of Mt. Kailash once again? And if so, what will we recognize of the rapidly changing culture that is modern Tibet?

Participants: Joe Whittington, leader; Eugene Lewins, assistant leader; Bob Breivogel, Clare Brien, Sally Grosscup, Eric Hoem, Pam Rigor, Patricia Riley, Beverly Sherrer, Libbi Layton Tamiyasu, Leslie Waldon, Bob Wilson.

Top: Mt. Kailash views. Bottom: Mazamas in front of Portola Palace. Photo: Unknown.

Glacier National Park

(which was closed earlier in the week due to the likeliness of grizzly bears grazing), Two Medicine Lake (loop hike at the southeast corner of the park).

July 24–Aug. 4, 2013

by Richard Getgen

This was my fourth Mazama outing to Glacier National Park. Five years ago, heavy snowpack determined our choice of which trail to hike; this year, the threat of rain was the limiting factor.

After four nice hiking days, Friday greeted us with heavy rain. Neither Bob nor myself were disappointed when no one wanted to hike in the heavy rain. All in all, we considered ourselves lucky since Apgar village had a foot of snow one August day last year, after the mercury had reached 97 degrees only 24 hours earlier. A couple of inches of rain were manageable.

We did have our bear, deer, elk, moose, goat, bighorn sheep, marmot and grouse sightings. The majority of the bears are in the Many Glacier area, and Bob’s group counted six one day.

A ranger claimed to have seen 26 bears during one day’s shift. It is no wonder that I have seen bears on each of my five visits to the park.

Our hikes included Garden Wall (the scenic trail extending north from Logan Pass along the Continental Divide), Iceberg Lake (the appropriately named lake at the base of the Ptarmigan Wall), Ptarmigan Tunnel (providing a view of two glacial valleys), Grinnell Glacier (the scenic ascent to the namesake glacier and pair of lakes), Hidden Lakes

Participants: Richard Getgen, leader; Robert Smith, assistant leader; Nancy Alderson, Susan Armstrong, Carol Beauclerk, Vicki Borden, Lesia Carlock, Jeanette Dimick, Ursula Edlund, Carol Getgen, Jennifer Hill, Jeff Kilmer, Bonnie and Karl Kratzer, Angie Larson, Mary May, Rose McManus, Tom Nelson, Karen Park, Gisela Piercy, Cheryl Polan, Del Reynolds, Barbara Sack, Ludwig Schmidt, Larry Solomon, David and Rosemarie Sweet, Kitty Tsoi, Joey Zarosinski.

Exploring Idaho’s Mountains: Climbing & Backpacking

rejoined us that afternoon having rented a car while his was being repaired. On Aug. 7 we hiked out to our cars and drove to Stanley and the Glacier View campground on Redfish Lake.

On Aug. 8 we took a shuttle boat to the west end of the lake and began a six-day, 50-mile backpack. We spent the first night at Baron Lake and the next day we packed to Moolack Creek.

By Aug. 10 we had moved to just south of Sawtooth Lake. Due to smoke, we did not do a planned climb of Mt. Regan. On Aug. 11 we moved to a forest camp north of Marshall Lake; the following day we moved to another camp south of Marshall Lake, and on Aug. 13 Bob, Pam and Paul climbed Mt. Thompson—the Sawtooth Range’s

Aug. 4–17, 2013

by Bob Breivogel

Six Mazamas traveled to Idaho to backpack and climb, starting in the Seven Devils Wilderness, followed by a Sawtooth traverse and lastly a planned climb of Mt. Borah.

We met Sunday, Aug. 4, at the Seven Devils campground west of Riggins, Idaho. During the drive in, Paul unfortunately damaged his car and had to drive to Boise for repairs. The next day, Aug. 5, five of us easily hiked four miles into Sheep Lake via the climbers route.

On Aug. 6 we climbed Mt. Baal and She Devil, Class 2-3, from the lake via a couloir between the two peaks. Paul

Grinnell Glacier Trail view. Photo: Richard Getgen.

Idaho Outing at Redfish Lake.

Top l to r, Paul Steger, Drew Gaylord, Nancy Gaylord, Cloudy Sears, Pam Rigor. Bottom, Bob Bob Breivogel. Photo: Bob Breivogel

high point at 10,751 feet via the SW Couloir, a Class 3 route. By this time, Cathy and Drew had foot issues and Cloudy was bothered by smoke from the forest fires and hiked out. On Aug. 14 we returned to the cars, spending the night at Sunny Gulch Campground near Stanley.

Fires near Ketchum and Boise were creating a lot of smoke near Mt. Borah.

On Aug. 15, we drove to Borah Trailhead but could hardly see the peak as ash rained down on us. We left and drove to Arco and the KOA campground to finish the outing.

Participants: Bob Breivogel, leader; Paul Steger, assistant leader; Cathy and Drew Gaylord, Pam Rigor, Cloudy Sears.

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Redwoods Outing Aug. 25–31, 2013

by Bob Smith

The Greek Gods of Sky and Weather, the “Theoi Meteori” under King Zeus and Queen Hera, smiled on us and allowed co-leader Marty Hanson and I to help our intrepid band of hikers experience the majesty of the California Coastal Redwood Forests.

Each day, Marty and I (and several times Megan Johnson—thanks Megan) offered different hiking opportunities.

These included the aptly named Damnation Creek, along with Myrtle Creek Trail, Hobbs Wall, Miner’s Ridge/Fern Canyon, Boy Scout Tree and Fern Falls, Hidden Beach, Hiouchi Trail, Trillium Falls Trail, Stout Grove and Lady Bird Johnson Grove. In a sampling of the hikers, the grotto-like Fern Canyon, the engineering masterpiece of Hobbs Wall, the beach at the end of Damnation Creek (before the 1,100-foot climb out!) and the various named redwood groves topped the popularity list.

All was not work. Many participants found time to visit the Trees of Mystery and to sample the attractions that Crescent City had to offer. Evening highlights included a sing-along and a beach bonfire (thanks to Peggie Schwarz and Shah Iranshad for leading the music and to Hengameh and Bruce Gibbins for the fire).

This very cohesive and friendly group certainly helped Marty and I conduct what everyone said was a fun and exciting outing! Thanks to all!

Participants: Marty Hanson, Bob Smith, co-leaders; Suzi Bennett, Steve Benson, Lisa

Left: Gretchen Guyot, Chris Ling and Sue Cassidy at Lady Bird Johnson Grove, Redwoods outing. Photo: Bob Smith Right: Redwoods outing group. Photo: Bob Smith.

Brice, Sue Cassidy, Merle Clifton, Hengameh and Bruce Gibbins, Gretchen and Tom Guyot, Shah Iranshad, Megan Johnson, Jason Juhala, Chris Ling, Rose McManus, Carol Mikowski, Tom Nelson, Patty Pandzik, Nancy Petrusich, Ginger Remy, Elaine and Pete Schmidt, Maxine Schwartz, Peggie Schwarz, Myrna Selivonchick, Jennifer Trask, Marjan Wazeka, Inga Winters, Joey Zarosinski.

Trinity Alps

about not getting any peaks, and when we decided to come out a day early, we literally beat the approaching rainstorm by five minutes! And getting nine people into a hotel on Friday evening with no reservations? Well, like we said: It was a charmed trip.

Participants: Paul Gerald, leader; Gary Beck, assistant leader; Lonnie Feather, Reuel Kurzet, Patricia Neighbor, Liz Sinclaire, Margaret Smith, Bob Vreeland, Michelle Wynkoop.

Sept. 15–21, 2013

by Paul Gerald

Some trips are just charmed, and the Mazamas 2013 “Hike and Climb in the Trinity Alps” outing was one of those.

From Sept. 16 to 21, we had nearly perfect weather, a terrific group of people and no problems at all, other than deciding which wonderful way to go. In fact, even when the leader messed something up, it turned out perfectly!

For five days, we walked among this lake- and granite-filled paradise of Northern California, wondering why we had it almost to ourselves. We called the Trinities “the Wallowas on steroids,” only without all the people. We were in the most popular area of the range, at the best time of year, and saw fewer than 10 other people. The highlight was our grassy, lakeside campsite at Upper Canyon Creek Lake, from where we day-hiked into the beautiful high country. We swam in the afternoons and admired the peaks by moonlight after dinner.

The climbs didn’t work out so well, owing to poor weather and poor information, but it was the kind of trip that was just plain charmed. Nobody was stressed 40

Hiking & Touring in Tuscany April 28–May 9, 2013

by Paul Gerald

Here is a glimpse of what hiking in Tuscany is all about: You start your day with a cappuccino and croissant in a charming medieval village, then walk the winding streets until they give way to country lanes, then woodsy trails, and eventually you arrive at a 1,000-year-old monastery where you get to tour one of the monks’ cabins. Then you keep walking to another village, where the hike ends with a cup of gelato at a stream-side café.

During the Mazamas 2013 Trails and Tables of Tuscany Outing, we had many days like this. Variations included the hand-rolled pasta in a shepherd’s home after following 500-year-old logging roads through the local forest, or climbing to the highest point on the island of Elba, where clouds mostly obscured our 360-degree ocean panorama, but the coffee bar at the top kept us occupied before our funicular ride back down the hill.

In addition to Elba and the coast, we visited the art-filled streets of Florence and Siena, the forested national park of Casentino and the rolling hills of Chianti, where we walked the backways, visited farms, churches and private homes, and ate some of the finest dinners of our lives. We like to call it “A and B hikes with C meals.”

following day we made our way southwest over broken basalt, summiting Sentinel Peak (9,401 feet) and then North Imnaha (9,340 feet) before dropping into Honeymoon Basin with a group of mountain goats running before us. After lunch we climbed Cusik Mountain (9,518 feet) via its North Ridge, a scramble up rolling granodiorite and loose scree to a broad summit Participant: Paul Gerald, leader; Noelle with fantastic views. That evening more Savatta, assistant leader; Reuel Kurzet, goats were spotted at dusk on the cliffs Robyn Lee, Christina Ling, Kim McCloskey, above camp while the sun set behind John Moore, Greg and Lois Robinson, Mary Eagle Cap. and Tony Spiering.

The following morning, excellent route-finding by several team members helped us proceed directly down the Scrambling along a ridge during the Wallowa outing. Photo: Unknown. cliffs below camp to Frazier Lake.

From there we went up the West Fork of the Wallowa River to Glacier Lake and the lakes basin area, which was full of classic Wallowa beauty: vibrant blue lakes surrounded by rugged glaciated ridges and peaks.

We summited Eagle Cap (9,572 feet) and on the way down we came across several bighorn sheep along the trail, backdropped by the postcard scenery of the East Lostine River—a highlight of the trip. On Thursday we hiked to the West Fork of the Wallowa Aug. 18–23, 2013 and then up to Ice Lake, where we

by Jason Eckess weathered an intense thunderstorm that night.

In August, six Mazamas participated On Friday morning we rose in an outing to the incredible Wallowa before dawn and summited MatterMountains in northeast Oregon, where horn (9,826 feet) during a beautiful we spent a week backpacking nearly 60 but windy morning.

The connecting miles of wilderness. Along the way we ridge to Sacajawea became too windy summited six peaks over 9,000 feet. to allow a safe summit attempt, so we The group met at Wallowa Lake State returned to Ice Lake to break camp, then Park on Aug. 18. The next morning we hiked down to the West Fork and out, entered the wilderness and traversed finishing a day early. the ridges above the East Fork of the Overall it was an excellent trip, full of Wallowa River to summit Aneroid Peak the things that make the Wallowas such (9,702 feet). We camped for the evening a wonderful place: varied landscapes, by a spring near Tenderfoot Pass and fascinating geology, impressive wildwatched a huge moon rise as a herd life, gorgeous lakes and, of course, the of elk went up a nearby ridge. The

Hiking in the Wallowas

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rugged mountains themselves, radiating in every direction and full of opportunity for further exploration.

Participants: Gary Bishop, leader; Terry Donahe, assistant leader; Greg Clark, Jason Eckess, Darin Richardson, Maggie Woodward

Yosemite National Park Aug. 23–Sept. 6, 2013

by Bill Dewsnap

“No temple made with human hands can compare with Yosemite,” wrote John Muir, whose crusading led to the creation of the park in October 1890.

We sat down on Yosemite’s smoothly polished granite slab overlooking California Falls, just off the Glen Aulin Trail, our first hike of the outing. The Tuolumne River flowed down a series of sparkling rapids separated by large pools and wide swirling streams of water cascading across down-sloping granite.

The backdrop was a towering fractured cliff set against a bright blue sky. A few hardy pines grew out of the rock. This was surely one of the temples John Muir saw and savored. We were gazing at the essence of Yosemite.

We had hiked downhill seven miles and it was time to turn back. Nearing the trailhead at 8,600 feet we walked on a side trail to the still-bubbling soda springs. A sign warned us not to drink the water, although long ago, of course, it was uncontaminated.

Our 17 participants could choose between two hikes of different lengths each day. In addition to Glen Aulin, hikes to Lower Cathedral Lake, May Lake, Mt. Hoffman, North Dome and Lembert and Pothole Domes began from our first campsite in Tuolumne Meadows. A cacophony of Steller’s Jays woke us up every morning at our campsite, creating amusing commotions during breakfast as we ran around, arms waving, to preserve our breakfast goodies.

Each hike featured memorable vistas.

Mt. Hoffman, at 10,850 feet, was a boulder-scramble to the summit where a fat and happy dark brown marmot greeted us. Hoffman is the geographic

center of the park, and The fire otherwise did with a topo map at hand not interfere with the almost every major peak outing, with the excepin the park was identition of having evening fied. From the North smoky skies for a few Dome summit area, more hours at Tuolumne of Yosemite Valley can be Meadows campseen than from any other ground.

Yosemite summit—with the excepValley, however, did tion of standing on top of get heavier smoke for Half Dome. On the return two days during the hike from North Dome, week’s stay. a side trail reveals one of Eleven Mazamas Yosemite’s few known participated in the full natural arches. Climbing two weeks; four stayed outing group: Back row: Rex Breunsbach, Bill Dewsnap; Middle: (L to R) Dyanne Foster, steeply up to peer through Yosemite only the first week, John Moore, Teresa George, Carol Beauclerk, Hannah Niestradt; Front left: Reuel Kurzet. Photo: the magnificent arch was Unknown. and two people came irresistible! only for the second Following those hikes, week. Thirteen people was feted again at the Ahwahnee Hotel two separate groups were organized for climbed up the “cable route” to the top at their legendary world-class brunch. a three-day backpack to climb Clouds of Half Dome.

The valley also offered touring and Rest and the “cable route” up Half we visited the Mariposa Grove’s giant Particpants: Bill Dewsnap, leader; Rex Dome. Especially noteworthy were the Sequoias, which can live to be 3,000 Breunsbach, assistant leader; Jay Avery, Carole Beauclerk, Mary Clisby, Carol two 70-year-olds who climbed up the years old. and Keith Dickson, Katie Foehl, Dyanne cable ladder—one of whom, Carole As if the logistics with two groups Foster, Teresa George, Reuel Kurzet, John Beauclerk, celebrated her 70th on top of doing different hikes and backpacking Moore, Dan and daughter Hannah Niesthe Dome on Aug. 29! days apart were not intricate enough, tradt, Ludwig Schmidt, Cloudy Sears, Tony The backpacking trip ended with the Rim Fire at the northwest side of Spiering.  both groups arriving in Yosemite Yosemite forced the leaders to creatively Valley’s Curry Village tent cabins for the rearrange a few of the hiking and backremainder of the outing with a variety of packing plans due to some road closures hikes to choose from. The birthday girl for firefighting vehicles and equipment.

Outings for which no report was submitted:

Slot Canyons and Beauty of Southwest Utah May 3–12, 2013 Participants: Tom Davidson, leader; Bob Breivogel, Sherry Bourdin, Kate Evans, John and Sharon Leary, Linda Prinsen, Byron Rendar, Pam Rigor, Terry Sherbeck.

Outing Reports in the Features section:

Aconcagua Jan 2–31, 2013

Laos

Above: The Mazama Outing to Utah. Photo: A passing hiker.

Feb. 28–Mar 19., 2013

Chamonix-Mt. Blanc July 4–17, 2013

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Committee Reports Adventurous Young Mazamas

by Beth Copeland & Daniel Mick

Last year AYM led a large variety of events geared to young adults and those who are young at heart, including hikes, climbs, rambles, backpacks, carcamping trips, rock-climbs and pub nights. These events were made possible by the addition of six new hike leaders, three new committee members and the enthusiasm and support of the many existing AYM leaders and participants.

The annual Winter Weekend at the Mazama Lodge was attended by more than 60 people and included snowshoeing and cross-country skiing trips as well as evening board games and ping-pong tournaments. Other favorite events this year were an early spring trip to Nesika Lodge in conjunction with the Trails Club of Oregon, a summer car-camping trip to the Wallowas and a whirlwind excursion to Mt. Jefferson titled “Jefferson Park in a Day.” AYM will host Climb Night at the Club Sport Rock Gym (held the first Monday of the month from November through May) again in 2013-2014. Each Climb Night during the 2012-2013 season was attended by more than 20 climbers from the Mazama community.

AYM continues to work to attract new participants and encourage Mazama membership through the AYM FaceBelow: Members enjoying the Annual Celebration (l to r: Unknown, Richard Stellner, Caleb Sattgast, Daniel Bailey. Photo: Katelyn Black. Climber on Unicorn Peak. Photo: Bob Breivogel.

book fan page and a recently created Meetup page.

Members: Daniel Mick/Beth Copeland, co-chair; Jerry Adams, Elizabeth Cole, Keith Dechant, Matt Reeder, Colleen Sinsky. Sojo Hendrix, council liaison.

Annual Celebration

by Anne Keegan-Schenk

This year the Annual Celebration Committee decided to delve into new territory and offer a full-fledged mountain festival that culminated in the traditional Annual Celebration. Over a six-day period there were multiple events to showcase the mountains, climbers, climbing culture, as well as to teach climbing techniques.

The week kicked off with the Veterans Day event on Monday night, Nov. 11, with a showing of the movie High Ground, a 2012 documentary film. Tuesday night had a bit of a lighter atmosphere with the new Mazama Families group coming together­for a fun evening at the MMC. Wednesday night offered up a stunning presentation of first ascents in Alaska by Mazama member John Frieh and Daniel Harro. On Thursday morning there were climbing clinics running at the MMC while an outfitter guide workshop was held concurrently at the Left Bank Annex.

The Khumbu Climbing Center Dinner on Thursday night proved to be a successful fundraiser with more than $6,000 raised for the Center that provides world-class climbing instruction for Nepali climbers and high-altitude porters.

Friday morning got underway with

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more clinics while preparation began in earnest for Friday evening. Friday night was the penultimate event of the festival. Held at the Left Bank Annex, Mazamas and community members alike were treated to a high-quality program featuring Conrad Anker and Margo Talbot, a silent auction, vendor fair, and the presentation of the Mazama service awards. The festival concluded Saturday with the Portland Ice Fest at PRG that included more clinics and an exciting mixed climbing competition. Approximately 500–600 people participated in one or all of the events during the festival, a first for the Mazamas.

Producing this one-week festival took a tremendous amount of effort by the committee as well as many other volunteers and Mazama staff.

Members: Anne Keegan-Schenk, chair, Derek Castonguay, Steve Heikkila, Andrew Holman, Jason Lee, Karin Mullendorff, Tim Scott, Matt Sundling, Ania Wiktorowicz

Climbing

by Shirley Welch

The Climbing Committee’s responsibility is to establish and oversee a comprehensive climbing program for the Mazamas. This is a many-pronged charge and requires a robust climbleader group, ongoing education for

From left to right: Jeff Hawkins on Mt. Hood. Photo: Al Papesh. Conservation activity. Photo: Unknown.

climb leaders, recruitment of climbers into the climb-leader development program, acquisition and maintenance of climbing equipment, and support of the climbing education programs in addition to promoting summer and winter climbs and climbing outings.

This year the summer climb schedule had 340 climbs led by 72 climb leaders.

Per the strategic plan, the committee developed targets for the number of climbs for each of the 16 peaks and most of those were met or exceeded. The winter climb schedule had more than 20 climbs listed. There were four climbing outings with groups exploring mountains in Idaho; the Wallowas; Chamonix, France; and the Trinity Alps.

The Climb Leader Development (LD) Program had an active year with seven provisional leaders promoted to full leader: Larry Beck, Rayce Boucher, Lisa Brady, Michael Hortsch, Chris Kruell, Azure Olson and Jay Satak.

Currently, there are 14 individuals in the LD program with four provisional climb leaders.

The second annual Climb Leader Update Weekend was held at Mazama Lodge and attended by 45 leaders and leader development participants.

This weekend provides leaders with the opportunity to update three of their leader requirements and enjoy a weekend of socializing and storytelling with fellow leaders. Professional guide Chris Simmons shared leadership and technical climbing tips.

Working with the Education Committee, the scope and sequence analysis of curricula for the Basic and Intermediate Climbing schools were completed. Additionally, class coordinator requirements were defined for lead coordinators of climbing courses and a policy was developed for school-related

outings such as Yosemite (Advanced Rock) and Ouray (Advanced Snow and Ice).

The Climbing Committee also helped support and facilitate the development of the family-oriented programs.

Members: Shirley Welch, chair; Tom Elmer, vice-chair; Daniel Bailey, George Cummings, Vaqas Malik, John Meckel, Lynne Pedersen, Greg Willmarth, Doug Wilson, Bruce Yatvin. Bill McLoughlin, council liaison.

Conservation

by John Rettig & Barbara Weiss

The Conservation Committee encourages a high level of environmental responsibility in Mazama activities within the organization as well as within individual members’ lives. We have three main goals: 1. Actively advocate for the protection and management of natural areas to preserve, restore and enhance healthy ecosystems.

2. Educate Mazama members so they can intelligently advocate for conservation issues.

3. Work toward helping the Mazamas become carbonneutral.

In 2013 the Conservation Committee granted a total of $22,000 to local conservation groups. We tracked and supported a variety of conservation efforts by taking positions requested by environmental organizations. We also held a number of educational events, including a showing of the film Chasing Ice, and held two tree-planting activities to bolster our effort toward becoming a carbon-neutral organization.

Grants

The Conservation Committee has the pleasure of awarding grants to nonprofit

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organizations to fund environmental work that benefits all of us in the Pacific Northwest and beyond. This year $22,000 went to: BARK—$1,750 to support Radºiºcle, a training program in public policy, community organization, ecology and conservation.

CRAG—$5,000 to support monitoring and documenting of the condition of land in and around the Timberline Ski Area Special Use Permit in advance of potential development of a downhill mountain bike park.

Friends of Mt. Hood—$1,500 to support hiring a web designer to update the FOMH website. The purpose of the web designer is to inform the public of current activities and recent successes in protecting the mountain.

Gifford Pinchot Task Force— $2,500 to support a campaign to oppose a potential 3,000-acre mine adjacent to Mount St. Helens and to continue work with other groups to develop a plan to address the GPNF’s failing road system.

Hells Canyon Preservation Council—$2,500 to support the Wildlife Watchers Project in northeast Oregon that gathers on-site data of species and connectivity habitat in the Wallowa and Blue mountains.

Oregon Natural Desert Association—$2,500 to support ONDA’s Wilderness Stewardship and Restoration program that engages volunteers in restoring ecologically vital landscapes while building public awareness.

Oregon Wild—$1,750 for operational support of advocacy for the protection of more than 18,000 acres suitable for wilderness designation omitted from the 2009 Mt. Hood legislation.

Columbia Gorge Ecology Institute—$2,000 for the Science In Action program engaging middle-school

From left to right: Mt. Hood Wy’east climb. Photo: Bob Breivogel. Rappelling Castle Peak. Photo: Barry O’Mahony.

students in field-based research projects.

Siskiyou Mountain Club—$2,500 for offsetting the cost of paying crew leaders who are responsible for safety and coordination of work rehabilitating a 28-mile network of trails in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness Area.

Tree-Planting Events This year we held two successful tree-planting events, one in the spring and one in fall, involving about 30 volunteers. These events were conducted through the Sandy River Basin Watershed Council in collaboration with the U.S. Forest Service. This was our fourth year organizing regular tree-planting projects, and we plan to continue them in 2014. Each project we complete sequesters 2 to 3 percent of our organization’s carbon footprint. This effect is cumulative and will eventually become a very important part of our carbon offset program.

Conservation Outreach and Education This year we organized an event around the film Chasing Ice. Held in October, the event combined a showing of the film followed by a panel discussion by four local scientists and glaciologists including Hassan Basagic, Dr. Carolyn Driedger, Dr. Andrew Fountain and Jim O’Connor.

In August we set up a hike to the edge of Eliot Glacier with Focus the Nation students. We also helped organize the Hell’s Canyon Preservation Council’s September event at the MMC. Conservation Issues Tracked, Coalitions Joined and Positions Taken The Mazamas’ voice counts. Every year we are approached by many conservation groups with requests that we lend our support to important environmental issues. This year we:

• tracked the Timberline mountain bike park administrative appeal outcome and tracked efforts at litigation and the Mazamas’ role in that process • signed on to a letter addressed to Washington Sen. Patty Murray, joining other conservation groups in support of the Wild Olympics Wilderness and Wild and Scenic Rivers Act as introduced

by Sen. Murray and Washington Congressman Dicks in Congress in June 2012 • signed on to Oregon Natural Desert Association’s letter to Oregon senators Wyden and Merkley and Rep. Walden regarding development of private land holdings in the Fish Creek Basin of Steens Mountain • submitted a letter to Oregon Gov. Kitzhaber in conjunction with Physicians for Social Responsibility opposing coal trains and terminals in the Pacific Northwest • had favorable reports on three previous issues we had taken positions on: 1. The Cascade Crossing power-line project will not move forward in an area near Detroit and Breitenbush.

2. The potential coal terminal in Coos Bay was defeated.

3. The BPA power-line proposal that had been offered near Silver Star Mountain will instead be developed along an existing corridor in a central area that avoids sensitive land.

Montague Award This year, long-time Conservation Committee member Bob Lothian passed away. Passionate about many conservation issues, including develop-

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ments on Mt. Hood, Bob generously donated $5,000 to support Conservation Committee efforts. The committee voted to give Bob the Montague award posthumously in honor of his commitment to conservation.

Members: John Rettig and Barbara Weiss, co-chairs; Ally Imbody, Mitch Auerbach, Barry Buchanan, Kate Evans, Walter Keutel, Bob Lothian, Barbara Wilson.

Joan Zuber, council liaison.

Critical Incident Stress Management

by Marina Wynton

The Critical Incident Stress Management team is a group of trained peers and mental health professionals tasked with providing support to Mazama members who have experienced accidents and are dealing with trauma as a result. Since the 1990s, the Mazamas has recognized the importance of providing emotional support for those affected by a traumatic incident.

Andrew Bodien, a long-standing member of CISM and a great advocate of stress management, has left the committee to become the lead coordinator of Basic Climbing Education Program. We thank Andrew for his valuable contributions to CISM and the Mazamas over the years and wish him all the best in his new endeavor.

Training and continuing education are very important in team building, skill development and skill maintenance. Don Manghelli, LCSW, Grief and Trauma specialist, spoke to the team about the importance of debriefing as a way to assist people in getting back to a functioning state. CISM is grateful for the support provided by Nancy Nixon, LCSW, who again this year provided the

From left to right: Climbers on Mt. Shasta. Photo: Bob Breivogel. BCEP team hiking. Photo: Josh Lockerby.

team with a full day of training.

CISM gave outreach presentations to Nordic, Basic Climbing Education Program, Intermediate Climb School, Mountaineering First Aid and Climb Leader Update, and we had a table at Discovery Night. Handy wallet cards are available in the office that includes CISM contact information, signs and symptoms of traumatic stress, and aids to recover.

If you and your climbing or hiking group were part of an accident, rescue or near-miss on a Mazama activity, CISM can help you recover from that traumatic experience. You can contact the Mazama Executive Director or any member of CISM to initiate a debriefing.

Members: Marina Wynton, chair; Angela Bohlke, Jim Farley, Lonnie Feather, Sharon Flegal*, Katie Foehl, Annie McCartney, Noelle Savatta, Greg Scott, Colleen Sinsky, Karen Vernier. * Licensed Mental Health Professional

Education

by Marty Scott

In addition to meeting as a core group, the Education Committee provides assistance and support to subcommittees that offer educational opportunities.

Again this year the Education Committee held an annual scheduling meeting in May where subcommittee chairs laid out their schedules for the 2013-14 year. At the meeting, participants identified conflicts of dates, places and resources and worked together to resolve those conflicts.

During 2012-13, the Education Committee, with assistance from the members of the subcommittees, continued to offer skill-builders to learn wilderness navigation, conditioning for

alpine climbing, basic rock skills, level 1 avalanche and crevasse rescue, snow camping, rock anchors, ice climbing, how to belay and mountain photography. In addition, three new skillbuilders were added: youth climbing, sport climbing essentials and intermediate snow climbing. These served a total of 40 new students.

Also this year, the Education Committee finalized the scope and sequence document for the Basic Climbing Education Program and the Intermediate Climbing School, and we worked with the Climbing Committee and the BCEP and ICS coordinators to address gaps and duplication in the school curricula. In the next year, we will work to finalize the Scope and Sequence document for Advanced Rock and Advanced Snow and Ice. Responding to a need to expand the pool of potential climbing school coordinators, the Education Committee worked with the Climbing Committee to update the requirements for Climbing School coordinators. The updated requirements clarify the skills needed to become a school coordinator and provide alternatives to obtaining approval to lead one of the climbing schools.

The Education Committee continues to offer the Instructor Training Class to BCEP instructors and assistants and to climb leaders at the Fall Leader Update session. The purpose of this class is to teach Mazama class instructors how to teach skills effectively to class participants with a long-term goal of making this information available to all those who teach Mazama classes.

The Education Committee’s goals for the future are to: • expand core committee membership • increase school capacities

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• continue to expand skill-builder classes • expand the Instructor Training Class to additional groups • work with the Climbing Committee and class coordinators to address gaps or duplications identified in the Scope and Sequence document for AR and ASI Members: Marty Scott, chair; Rayce Boucher, Reagan Ellis, Eric Kennedy, Ted Light, Brian McCormick, Daniel Mick, Doug Pratt, Paul Steger. Doug Couch, council liaison.

Advanced Snow and Ice Subcommittee

by Tim Scott

The following tasks were achieved during 2012-2013: • Expanded the ASI class size to 12 (from 19 applicants). The class was challenged by limited access to terrain and by weather, so we had a few sessions on the MMC’s walls.

• Four committee members attended a one-day Rigging for Rescue Clinic in January that focused on rescuing a leader and multi-pitch rappelling with an incapacitated climber.

• Expanded ASI educational equipment to accommodate a larger class size.

• Proposed a new climbing wall designed with an emphasis on teaching ice-climbing technique but adaptable to rock-climbing as well.

• Conducted the first Intermediate Snow and Anchor Skill-builder in July.

• Scheduled a second Ice Climbing Skill-builder in October. We

From left to right: BCEP team on Mt. Hood. Photo: Alicia Imbody. ASI practice. Photo: Tim Scott.

canceled it due to access and safety concerns.

• Received Climb Committee approval for changes to ASI curriculum.

• Proposed new Leader High-Angle Rescue curriculum to the Climb Committee in partnership with AR. Our proposal was accepted.

• Conducted a Good Citizen meeting with Ouray trip attendees in order to mitigate the possible negative impact of the largest Mazama group who visited the Ouray Ice Park in January.

• Required waiver sign-off and usage fee ($20 per week) for the Ouray trip to make this activity conform to existing policy for other similar Mazama activities.

• Published seven articles for the Mazama Bulletin.

Members: Tim Scott, chair; Derek Castonguay, field coordinator; Laura Greenwalt, recording secretary; Wim Aarts, David Byrne, Keith Campbell, Dani Evenson, Steve Heikkila, Adam Nawrot, Laura Pigion, Jed Stasch, Keith Thomajan

Advanced Rock Subcommittee

by Jeff Hawkins

Perhaps for the first time, more women than men applied for Advanced Rock. Thirty individuals applied, 24 were accepted and 23 completed the course. (One dropped out for personal health reasons.) There were 11 lectures and eight field sessions for a total of 80 hours of instruction by 11 speakers and 55 assistants.

Key improvements in the program this year:

• updated AR grad/assistant database that goes back many years and contains 221 names • completed a rewrite of the AR webpage • reviewed the curriculum and content of all lectures • completed a student handbook that has been in development for several years • offered assistant review sessions December-February for the first time; these were well received Two minor accidents occurred: One trip/fall on uneven ground at Horsethief due to a practice anchor pulling out as a rock came loose. A warning about rock quality at Horsethief and anchor inspection was added to the student handbook for next year. The other accident was an impact on the floor of the Holman Auditorium in the Mountaineering Center due to dropping gear from the top of the practice wall.

The Yosemite Valley trip was attended by 32 students, assistants and friends.

Great climbing; great weather; great fun. We could have used more camping spaces as nearly twice as many people wanted to go than there were available openings.

Members: Jeff Hawkins, chair; Ray Belt, Kat Buckspan, Terry Campbell, George Cummings, Spencer Leek, John Meckel, Laura Pigion.

Basic Climbing Education Program Subcommittee

by Josh Lockerby

BCEP took in 210 students for last year’s course and 16 students for the e-BCEP course. This was a year of exper-

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imentation. We challenged ourselves to find new educational tools to better teach our students. Some of the changes included supplemental videos (such as how to rappel or self-arrest) and reduced auditorium time in favor of more group class time.

We concluded that some ideas worked, some can be refined and others will be dropped. The e-BCEP program, led by Darrell Weston, comprised a much smaller student body. It is intended to not only try out new teaching methods, but also new climbing techniques that could not fit into the original BCEP. The BCEP Committee now operates year-round. The committee is a mix of people skilled in not only climbing, but education, communication and computer technology. Additionally our committee gathered feedback from the group leaders. In working with my successor, Andrew Bodien, the plan for next year is to improve and adjust the changes made this year.

We are going to look at load-balancing the lectures and classroom sessions (restore some auditorium lectures that were dropped) and we are going to refine the videos. We are also going to learn from the efforts of e-BCEP and consider additions to the BCEP curriculum.

Members: Josh Lockerby, chair; Matt Blecharz, Andrew Bodien, Sue Giordano, Jeff Jackson, Kirsten Labudda, Daniel Mick, Virginia Tarango, Darrell Weston, April Wolstencroft.

First Aid Subcommittee

by Kati Mayfield

The First Aid Subcommittee successfully ran two Mountaineering First Aid courses, three recertification classes and at least five CPR courses. In 2013

From left to right: BCEP student at Horsethief Rock day. Photo: Josh Lockerby. ASI class on the glacier. Photo: Tim Scott.

the committee launched a new type of CPR offering where students can receive instruction online and then complete a skills check on-site. This reduces the amount of time both students and instructors need to spend in class.

There were challenges recruiting sufficient volunteers for fall MFA, but thanks go to the committee members and volunteers who really rallied to put on classes and get new instructors trained. Though the committee functioned informally for most of the year, the following volunteers deserve thanks for their commitment to planning and instructing Mazama First Aid courses: Justin Brady, Nicole Gaines, Abram Hernandez, Sarah Holmes, Don Lagrone, Meg Linza, Annie McCartney, Daniel Mick, Janet Peterson, Janette Pipkin, Brian Wetzel, Ania Wiktorowicz, April Wolstencroft.

Intermediate Climbing School Subcommittee

by Steve Heikkila

ICS 2012-2013 began with an initial group of 42 students; 39 of those made it through the program this year and 32 graduated. The remaining seven will graduate after making up a bit of missed material. Thirty-eight of those students also assisted BCEP this year.

We continued the optional Sport Lead rock-climbing module, and 22 students (more than half of the class) and five ICS alumni took advantage of the opportunity.

Based on my own headcount, 104 volunteer assistants came out to help this year’s ICS class. Some of them were lecturers, but most helped in the field.

They varied from climb leaders, Leadership Development candidates and that

whole set of awesome rock climbers who regularly help with the Advanced Rock program to nearly every Mazama with Avalanche Level 2 certification. Our resident “navigation geeks,” Advanced Snow and Ice instructors and graduates plus lots of previous ICS graduates also helped.

Over the past several years, the ICS curriculum has been updated and greatly improved to meet current climbing standards and best practices. At this point it’s refined and quite impressive. This year we continued to teach a much more sophisticated approach to snow-anchor building that was introduced during last year’s ICS class. This was based on recent fieldwork in the search and rescue community (especially the work of Don Bogie and Art Fortini).

We also continued to modernize our approach to crevasse-rescue training based on education the Advanced Snow and Ice subcommittee received from Rigging for Rescue. Finally, the ICS Committee, in conjunction with Brain McCormick (ICS 2011-2012 grad and SAR volunteer), revamped and greatly improved the ICS Leadership and Accident Management module.

Members: Steve Heikkila, chair; Gary Ballou, assistant chair; Dan Gerbus, Andrew Holman, Justin Rotherham, Ania Wiktorowicz.

Nordic Subcommittee

by Carol Lane

The Nordic School enrolled 88 students during the 2012-2013 ski season. Eleven classes were offered thanks to the 11 instructors, 18 assistants and three alternate assistants. In addition to classes in Beginning, Intermediate and Advanced Nordic skiing, classes were also offered in Nordic Back Country

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and Nordic Downhill (Telemark) skiing.

New this year were four informal Nordic Tours.

This year we are initiating the Nordic Leadership Award and Karl Steady is being nominated for his outstanding work as instructor coordinator for the Mazama Nordic Ski School during the past four years. He will be honored at the Alpine Festival and again at our Student Orientation Night.

Karl exemplifies what it means to be a nordic instructor coordinator and supporter. While spending countless hours volunteering for the Mazama Nordic Committee, Karl adhered to the highest standards of professionalism and safety that the Mazamas and the Nordic Committee are known for.

The systems he established for the instructor coordination tasks will serve our future coordinators well and we appreciate everything he has done for the Nordic Committee!

Members: Carol Lane, chair; Ed Conyngham, Carl Lamb, Elliott Mecham, Lia Ribacchi, Karl Steady, Jodi Wacenske.

Friends of the Committee: Dave Huntley, Byron Rendar, Ed Wortman.

Tour Leader: Wayne Lincoln

Ski Mountaineering Subcommittee

by Jeremy Buck

The 2012–2013 SMC had another successful year of coordinating the Ski Mountaineering Class, Level 1 Avalanche Skill-builder class and various avalanche avoidance classes for the Mazamas. A record number of students applied to the Ski Mountaineering Class. We accepted 38 into the class and had to turn away an additional five people.

We offered great ski-touring options

Above: Advanced Rock class. Photo: Scott Osbron.

for students in Washington, including backcountry skiing in Alpental, and a variety of overnight ski camping events near Mt. Bachelor and elsewhere.

Special mention should be given to Ryan Kilgren for efficiently coordinating our volunteers this year, and Patrick Jackson did an exceptional job of introducing students to the wonderful world of camping in snow caves. He went beyond the call of duty by taking students out for a number of spring ski adventures after the class was completed.

The committee coordinated and provided field assistants to help teach avalanche avoidance for the Intermediate Climb School, the Level 1 Skillbuilder class and assisted the climbleader avalanche refreshers. Many thanks to Tony Carlson for helping to coordinate these activities. We had 17 students in the Level 1 Skill-builder class, which was taught this year by Forrest McBrian, a professional mountain guide and avalanche instructor based out of North Bend, Washington.

Three committee members attended Avalanche Level 2 training this past season: Karl Furlong, Patrick Jackson and Eileen Kiely. We now have increased our pool of talented individuals to help our many avalanche avoidance classes that we are involved in during the season.

Members: Jeremy Buck, chair; Wim Aarts, Erin Cushing, William Emerson, Karl Furlong, Kevin Hardy, Alex Hauser, Richard Iverson, Patrick Jackson, Eileen Kiely, Eric and Anne Lider, Jon Major, Paul Mayhew, Mark Meyer, Mike Ondeck, Tiffany Reitter, Eric Rutz , Nick Scaief, Jay Stagnone, Maite Uranga.Class coordinators: Kyle Petrocine, Layne Russell. Volunteer coordinator: Ryan Kilgren. Avalanche class coordinator: Tony Carlson.

Expedition

Financial Affairs

by Ron Fridell

by Rick Schmidt

This has been a very successful year for the Expedition Committee. We were able to sponsor several expeditions and taught skill-builder classes for 146 students.

This year our committee gave out five grants for the following expeditions: • Blake Herrington—Mt. Bute, West Face, British Columbia • Chris Wright—Ripimo Shar, Nepal • David Byrne—Multiple Peaks, Peru and Bolivia • John Frieh—Middle Peak, Alaska • Katie Mills—Stikine Ice Cap, Alaska • Rebecca Schob—Bugaboos, British Columbia We have scheduled and will be promoting programs at the MMC for the sponsored expeditions.

Our committee taught the following skill-builder classes: • one snow camping class with 26 students attending • two wilderness navigation classes with 32 students • three crevasse rescue classes with 88 students attending Additionally, we are preparing our Expedition Training Course for 2014.

This will be a huge undertaking for the committee that will include: • 10 lectures • four field sessions • one mini-expedition Our current goal is to expand our expedition grant program to encourage even more exploration around the world.

Members: Ron Fridell, chair; Bill Anderson, Eric Brainich, Charlie Brasher, William Emerson, Thomas Nancarrow.

Terry Donahe, council liaison.

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Katie Crocker, Rick Schmidt and Vincent Pimont will be leaving the committee. Kevin Vandemore, Larry Solomon and David Gratke have agreed to join the committee, bringing membership again to six.

In addition to facilitating the preparation of quarterly re-forecasts and the annual budget, this year FAC took the lead in an account consolidation project for the organization. The existing account structure had grown too large and confusing. The committee was able to pare down the existing structure, eliminating overlapping entries. Jamie Anderson, Member Services manager, is in the process of implementing the account consolidation.

FAC also worked on developing a dashboard report for Executive Council.

This report will provide a graphical representation of key components of the quarterly financial statements. It should be ready to implement with the next re-forecast.

There will be some re-assignments of liaisons to the committee chairs of the organization due to the turnover on FAC. We look forward to meeting new people and regaining our understanding of the committees we support.

Members: Chris Simmons, chair; Christina Barry-Simmons, Eric Brainich, Katie Crocker, Vincent Pimont, Rick Schmidt.

Terry Donahe, council liaison.

Governing Documents

by John Rettig

Last year we accomplished updating our bylaws and also making changes in such a way that we do not anticipate

From left to right: Mazama Lodge lit up on a snowy eve. Photo: Andrew Holman. Rock rack. Photo: Barry O’Mahony.

revisiting the task for four more years.

Governing Documents Committee has now shifted gears and embarked on a four-year program to update all of our policies and procedures. These are formally controlled documents, approved by Executive Council, occupying the hierarchy below the bylaws, owned by members but above the everyday committee and staff operations, which do not get controlled.

Our first task was to gather up everything that appeared to be a policy and procedure and simply get it approved as-is by Executive Council and under control—in this case, about 109 pages of documents. This was easier said than done, and we did have some late arrivals that were at some point approved and then forgotten. A schedule was worked out with staff to prioritize a more formal review process with the intention to spread out the workload evenly over four years. It was also recognized that a few will have to be newly created.

This past year’s workload would be properly characterized as the “risk management” year, with nine policies and procedures associated with our risk in activities being reviewed, updated and approved. We also started drafting and reviewing the volunteer handbook, which will take two years, and we documented a staff authority policy. Finally, we wrote a new policy on general requirements, which not only put standards in place for how we manage it all, but also documents the general way in which Governing Documents Committee and Executive Council will work with the committees that ultimately own the maintenance of the end product.

Many thanks to all of the committee members who worked long, hard hours at this task.

Members: John Rettig, chair; Bob Breivogel, Matt Carter, Terri Cummings,

Pam Gilmer, Billie Goodwin, Brian Holcomb, Neal Keefer. Bronson Potter, council liaison.

Library and Historical Collections

by Vera Dafoe, curator

The Mazamas receives many donations for our mountaineering museum each year. These contribute to its growth and serve to widen interest in its exhibits. A major purpose of our museum and archives is to record the history of mountaineering, particularly in the Pacific Northwest. We are proud of our expanding collection, which has become a valuable research resource.

A major undertaking by Jeff Thomas this coming year will be to photograph the entire inventory so there will be a visual/digital record that can be entered into our database and used for research purposes.

An unusual piece of history was received from the estate of a Mazama member. It is a wood-shaft ice axe formerly owned by a South American dictator. The ice axe had been presented during a military ceremony in 1948 to First Lieutenant William D. Hackett of the U.S. Army by President Juan Peron of Argentina. Lt. Hackett was honored

by President Peron for being the first American to summit Mt. Aconcagua, accompanied by an Argentine military officer. The ice axe had been used by President Peron for many years when he was an officer in the Argentine mountain troops. He climbed with it in the Andes as well as in the European Alps.

The axe was manufactured by Fulpmes of Austria around 1930.

We were given a Mazama antique, the 16 Major Northwest Peaks award,

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plaque number 8. It had been presented to Donald G. Onthank in December 1938. Don worked for many years in the library, expanding and improving its excellent collection of mountaineering books.

Old and new pieces of climbing hardware are donated regularly to our museum. They represent the evolution of technical rock climbing gear in the expanding rock climbing sport. From the estate of Daniel Davis we received numerous pieces of hardware that we didn’t already have.

Exhibits of museum, archival and photo items are shown in one small case and two large glass cases in our Holman Auditorium and in two shadow boxes in the front lobby. An exhibit titled “We Were Here” includes summit registers and summit containers, some dating from before the Mazamas was organized in 1894. Early summit boxes were made of copper and later by heavy aluminum containers. Other objects have also been used to hold the records. There was a tiny film case, glass jars, army ammo boxes, aluminum tubes, a coffee can and a metal match box. Summit names were signed on slips of paper, in journals, on a large bandage, on a small rolled notebook and on a piece of cloth. Business cards were often left in the summit boxes.

The Mazama Museum was one year old in 1971 with 27 donations. The entire collection—alpenstocks, snowshoes, a coffee pot, pitons and more— was contained in one glass exhibit case that year. The museum’s growth is now at 4,800 acquisitions, from tiny to large. Another exhibit held the two fragile Mazama Military Service flags from World War I and World War II. Members who were in the armed services were represented by blue stars.

Three of those stars were turned to gold

From left to right: Mt. Blanc outing. Photo: Lisa Brady. China-Tibet Outing. Photo: Eugene Lewins.

upon the deaths of those members.

The small vertical glass case held the story of how the eruption and subsequent closure of Mount St. Helens to climbers caused Mazamas to develop two temporary awards, the Warrior Peaks Award and the Fifteen Major Northwest Peaks Award. There were only three of the 15-peaks plaques given out before the mountain was reopened to climbers and both awards were discontinued.

The museum has been given all three of the plaques.

We treasure our mountaineering museum. Its growth and diversity are provided by ongoing donations. The foremost symbol of mountaineering is the wood-shaft ice axe. If you haven’t already given the museum your old wood ice axe, please do it now. Or include it in your will for the Mazama museum.

Thanks go to Jeff Thomas for data entry and to Jessica Palfreyman for volunteer work for the museum.

Lodge

by Bob Stayton

2012-2013 was an eventful year.

The Mazama Lodge is the mountain home for the Mazamas. The lodge continues to be well- managed

by Charles Barker and caretaker Max Rupert, with additional staff Clare Hogan, Schyler Korn, Kelly McCormick and Illia Savin when bookings or events require extra help.

The Mazama Lodge Committee currently has eight hard-working members, though we could use four more. Ric Amodeo handed off the chair to Bob Stayton in June. If you are interested in joining this group and continuing the legacy of Mazama

Lodge, contact Bob, the current chair.

Friends of the Lodge currently number approximately 80. The FOTL are called on occasionally to provide support and help maintain and facilitate the activities at the lodge. If you want to help out, get on the FOTL mailing list and contact Bob Stayton.

Several major lodge maintenance and improvement projects were completed during the year: • New guardrails were installed on the upper bunks and two new ladders were added in the dorms.

• New glass partitions were installed in the men’s and women’s showers.

• The main dining/meeting area floor was refinished.

• The lodge exterior was repaired and repainted.

• Work parties in the spring and fall took care of snow shutters, the trail rope, firewood, lodge cleaning, furniture repair and grounds cleanup.

Major events and highlights at the lodge included: • Thanksgiving Dinner • New Year’s Eve at the Lodge • Winter Family Weekend • Round-the-Mountain Weekend • Chuckwagon Weekend • Family Camps—About 1,000 kids from Portland schools visited during camps held in September and October.

Lodge gross sales were approximately $224,000.

Future direction: The lodge is the Mazama’s yearround home on Mt. Hood. The lodge management and the Lodge Committee are focused on maintaining the facility in good repair so members and users have a great experience while visiting

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the lodge. A high priority is to finish development of a time-phased operating budget that includes all the resources and requirements necessary to maintain the lodge as an asset for the organization. Capital improvements can then be planned and completed as needs arise and resources are available.

Short-term issues include regrading the parking area and access road to repair water damage from a rainstorm in September and completing minor roof repair. The wish list for the lodge includes completion of the additional parking project on Forest Service Road 530, refinishing the decks, a better air supply for the kitchen, new carpets and a landscape plan for the site.

We want your feedback about your Mazama Lodge experience. Email mazamalodge@mazamas.org Members: Bob Stayton, chair; Ric Amodeo, Ken Klos, Wayne Lincoln, Marie Quarles, Ron Sikes, James VanLente, Adam Zeilinski. Dyanne Foster, council liaison.

Old-Timers

by Billie Goodwin

Eating and visiting with fellow Mazamas seems to be the reason why so many gather at our luncheons and annual picnic. I can’t think of a better reason.

A December day outing to the Pittock Mansion to see the seasonal decorations followed by lunch at a local restaurant was lightly attended, and a number of local hikes were offered to all.

Our spring luncheon was held on the east side of Portland and was well attended. Rick Balaz showed a slide show on his recent trip to Everest base camp with a guide/porter. The pictures

From left to right: Mark Curran tops out Old Chute. Photo: Al Papesh. Noelle Price grabs a cup o joe before escaping off Sawtooth Peak in Trinity Alps Wilderness. Photo: Al Papesh. BCEP team on a snowy hike. Photo: Barry O’Mahony. Climb team on the summit of Mt. Washington. Photo: Barry O’Mahony.

were beautiful and along with his talking program, he made you feel like you were traveling with him.

Thirty-nine people enjoyed our annual July picnic at Dick and Jane Miller’s homestead. The weather was perfect, the food delicious and everyone had a good time.

New 25-year members: Carol Armatis, Lloyd Athearn, Louis Barker, Ken Bender, Anna Browne, Allen Burrell, Ralph Drewfs, Sera Eder, Theresa Eubanks, Haven Frank, Bonnie Garlan, Mike Holman, Patricia Holt, Richard Iverson, Jane Kennedy, Terri Kranz, P. Krostag, Kate Loomis, Paul Matson, Benjamin Mitchell, Peter Moon, Darlene Nelson, Leonard Peterson, Jon Putnam, Charles Rosenthal, Jim Ross, David Sauerbrey, Grant Sawyer, Donna Schuurman, Ray Shirley, Kenneth Stinger, David Sweet, Dennis Sword, Michael L. Tourijigian, Colleen Wright New 50-year members: Richard Blackwell, Carol Cogswell, Patsy Edwards, Latham Flanagan, Peggy Fujita, Maralyn Gerdes, Christine Heilman, Steve Heim, Charles Houston, Suzanne Jelineo, Charles Kirk, Patricia Lobb-Stansbury, Marine Lynch, Hannah May, Jean Norrby, Arnold Pickar, Douglas Potts, Lawrence Sandstrom, Joanne Shipley, Linda Shockey, John Tongue, Mike Walsh, John Westgate, Jon Ziady Members: Billie Goodwin, chair; Anne Morris Jacobs, Heather Rosenwinkel.

Dyanne Foster, council liaison.

Outings

by Joe Whittington

The Outings Committee is focused

on being a resource for adventurous leaders and group members exploring the world. Our dedicated committee members worked to make the following 2013 outings as successful as possible: • Laos Backpacking—Greg Justice, leader; John Leary, assistant.

• Hiking and Touring in Tuscany— Paul Gerald, leader; Noelle Savatta, assistant.

• Slot Canyons and Beauty of Southwest Utah—Tom Davidson, leader; John Leary, assistant.

• Chamonix–Mt. Blanc Climbing— Lee Davis, leader; Shirley Welch and Marty Scott, assistants.

• Hiking Glacier National Park— Richard Getgen, leader; Robert Smith, assistant.

• Exploring Idaho’s Mountains— Bob Breivogel, leader; Paul Steger, assistant.

• Wallowa Mountains Trek—Gary Bishop, leader; Terry Donahe, assistant.

• Redwoods—Robert Smith, leader; Marty Hanson, assistant.

• Yosemite National Park and High Sierra Camping, Hiking, and Backpacking—Bill Dewsnap, leader; Rex Breunsbach, assistant.

• Backpacking and Climbing in the Trinity Alps—Paul Gerald, leader; Gary Beck, assistant.

• China–Tibet—Joe Whittington, leader; Eugene Lewins, assistant.

For the coming year our primary objectives are continuing to work to improve the sign-up process, expanding the number of outings offered and the number of participants by taking advantage of promotion, opportunities, and supporting outing leaders in outing planning and execution.

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Members: Joe Whittington, chair; Bob Breivogel, Allie Duncan, Dyanne Foster, Nicholas Nelson. Meg Goldberg, council liasion.

Outreach

by Elizabeth Cole

The Outreach Committee represents the Mazamas in the community and within the organization. In the past year we represented the Mazamas at various events throughout the region such as the Portland Rock Gym and the Portland State University Wellness Fair. We gave out information and described our organization and programs to many people.

We also helped publicize various Mazama events and helped organize distribution of the Mazama Bulletin at various local retailers. Lastly, we organized the annual Discovery Night, our biggest event to promote the Mazamas to prospective members. We had more than 300 people attend this year’s Discovery Night, largely due to using new advertising techniques such as connecting with the Outdoor Program at Portland State University and the various outdoor Meetup groups in the area.

Using Meetup to promote the event was the single most important form of advertising we used. Next year we plan to increase our efforts to reach more diverse prospective members and to improve our outreach strategies.

Members: Elizabeth Cole, chair; Kristin Bailie, Gary Ballou, Shem Harding, Susan Jelsch, Matt Lyon. Sojo Hendrix, council liaison.

From left to right: BCEP team on a snowy hike. Photo: Barry O’Mahony. Climb team on the summit of Mt. Washington. Photo: Barry O’Mahony.

Programs

by Nancy Bentley & John Leary

The Program Committee presented 24 events from October 2012 through April 2013. Program contents originated from 19 countries and five continents covering foreign travel, hiking, backpacking, mountaineering and history plus environmental and scientific issues. There were shows presenting no resupply backpacking on the Oregon Pacific Crest Trail, trekking in the Andes and Patagonia, and combining volunteering and travel around the world. We went from the depths of Death Valley to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro, took African safaris, went from Canada to Easter Island to Antarctica, from Bhutan to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, and from Slovenia to Japan. We heard the story of The Making of Yosemite and received lessons on mountaineering photography. Of course we had many programs climbing, backpacking and ice climbing throughout the U.S., Canada, South America and Asia as well.

Our programs were attended by more than 1,700 people, averaging 74 persons per show with total donations of $1,770.

Our three most-attended programs were about the Wallowas with Terry Richard, Bill Sullivan on his Hiking NW Oregon & SW Washington book and Darryl Lloyd presenting on the changes taking place on Mt. Adams.

We have 24 more events scheduled for the upcoming season. The presenters include professional photographers, authors and tour guides, with most shows originating from within the Mazamas. Shows will include content from five different continents, including igloo building and ski trips

in the Oregon Cascades, the first allAfrican-American team to climb Denali, kayaking and trekking New Zealand, skiing, backpacking and much more.

Our new digital projector is bright enough to project high-quality images even when the room is still lit by the early-evening sun. The new improvements to the sound system in the auditorium have been appreciated by all. We look forward to seeing you all at another exciting season of Mazama programs.

All of the upcoming scheduled programs can be viewed at: http://www.mazamas. org/your/adventure/starts-here/C13/ Members: Nancy Bentley and John Leary, co-chairs; Dave Groudle, Sharon Leary, Gail O’Neill, Barbara Russell, Ric Russell, Polly Waller. Dyanne Foster, council liaison.

Publications

by Barry Maletzky

Continuing our changes and upgrades from last year, the committee accomplished many improvements this past fiscal year.

Electronic publications: • Supervised an independent editor for all electronic publications.

• Participated in an upgraded look for the Online Newsletter including the use of color and photos.

• Added a monthly video shared with all Mazama members online (thanks to Rayce Boucher and Steve Hinkle).

Bulletin: • Solicited, wrote and published more climb-related content.

• Established four topical issues of the Bulletin, including Alpine

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Climbing, Rock Climbing, Skiing and Ski Mountaineering and Trail Trips. We will also be considering additional special issues devoted to Expeditions, Ice Climbing, Gear, Outings and our schools.

• Established the use of color, including color photos.

• Added more features, including gear and book reviews, articles on exercise and nutrition, “Time Warp” articles, recipes and leader profiles.

• Initiated a system of distributing the Bulletin to outdoor retail outlets and sports gyms with the help of the Outreach Committee.

• Rendered the Bulletin more readerfriendly by increasing font sizes and modernizing its appearance.

• Oversaw the production of a press kit for new advertisers, potentially increasing revenue and established a number of new advertisers as well (thanks to Sarah Bradham).

Mazama Annual: • Emphasized more climbing-related content.

• Introduced a Google Docs page for enhanced real-time group editing.

• Worked on establishing an electronic Mazama photo repository for use in all publications (thanks to Bob Breivogel, Al Papesh and Andrew Holman).

Membership Directory: • Published the 2012 directory by mid-January instead of February or March (thanks to Sarah Bradham).

• Added photos and interesting membership information.

The committee also updated the Mazama Style Guide, especially for Mazama name usage rules and created

From left to right: Lenticular cloud over Mt. Hood. Photo: Bob Breivogel. Matt Carter at the summit register on Kings Mountain. Photo: Alicia Imbody.

a new document explaining committee procedures and expectations for new members.

Members: Barry Maletzky, chair; Bob Breivogel, Anna Browne, Rick Craycraft, Jack Grauer, Natalie Lozano, Kristie Perry, Edward Rei, David Stein. Meg Goldberg, council liaison.

Friends of the committee: Rayce Boucher, Sarah Bradham, Steve Hinkle, Andrew Holman, Al Papesh.

Research

by Tom Bennett & Molly Schmitz

Each year the Mazama Research Committee solicits research proposals to augment the mission of the Mazamas.

These proposals are reviewed early in the year and are awarded in the spring.

Normally, these awards are completed within a year and findings are submitted to the committee.

In 2013, the committee received 25 proposals; nine were awarded, totaling $14,385. A sample of these are monitoring glaciers in Western national parks, studying high-elevation white bark trees in eastern Oregon, multi-instrument monitoring of volcanoes in Chile and the study of pika recolonization in the Northwest.

Research Committee Funded Proposals for 2013: Standard Grants • D’Allura, Jad. Southern Oregon University. Age and Origin of RidgeForming Projections of Western Cascade Volcanic Rocks, Southern Oregon.

• Granshaw, Frank. Portland State University and Portland Community College. Glaciers and Glacial

Monitoring in the Western National Parks: A Virtual Field Experience.

Graduate Grants • Corthouts, Travis. Montana State University. Deformational History of the Qomolangma Formation of the Yellow Band of Mt. Everest, Nepal.

• Johnston, James. Oregon State University. High Elevation Whitebark Forests in the Southern Blue Mountains in Eastern Oregon.

• Moler, Ehren. Idaho State University Investigating Symbionts of Whitebark Pine Needles for a Source Resistance Against the White Pine Blister Rust Disease.

• Moussallam, Yves. University of Cambridge, England. Multi-instrument Monitoring Campaign at Villarrica Volcano, Chile.

• White, Ali. Montana State University. Ecosystem Response to Climate Change and Fire in Southwestern Oregon during the Holocene Era. • Williams, Jason. Washington State University. Effects on Glaciers in the Chemistry of Mountain Lakes in the North Cascades National Park.

Youth Award • Weedle, Mike and Johanna Verner.

Jane Goodall Environmental School, Salem. Pika Recolonization and Successor Dynamics: A K-12 Research Project. Salem, Oregon.

Final reports are archived in the Mazama Library.

Members: Tom Bennett and Molly Schmitz, co-chairs; Kathy Avalos, Gregg Baker, Robert Everhart, Steve Hinkle, Bob McGown, Cloudy Sears. Judith Baker, council liaison.

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Risk Management

by Sandra Volk

This committee has two functions: The first is to review any Mazama incidents and report on their causes to the Executive Council; the second is to recommend to the council any practices and educational policies that would enhance the management of risks inherent in our outdoor activities.

There were a total of 18 incidents (13 climbing, four trail trips and one nordic).

Most were near-misses or minor injuries.

However, two required follow-up with a physician (one sprained ankle on a hiking trip and one laceration during a glissade that required stitches). The number of incidents was double those that occurred in 2012. We believe the increase is due to: • implementation of an online incident submission form, making it easier for leaders to submit incidents • education of the Trail Trips Committee, which resulted in several submissions for the first time in several years • further education of climb leaders to submit near-misses in addition to injury incidents.

There were no recommendations made to the Executive Council as the committee found, in reviewing the incidents, that in each case established Mazama procedures were followed appropriately.

In October 2013, Sandra Volk, committee chair, was able to attend the NOLS Risk Management Conference.

She will be reviewing what she learned with the Risk Management Committee.

Sandra is happy to report that the Mazama Risk Management program is on track with the NOLS recommendations.

In the upcoming year the committee will review the practices of two Mazama

Above: Mt. Hood at sunrise. Photo: Al Papesh.

outdoor schools. If needed, recommendations will be made to the schools’ committees and the council to update safety practices.

Members: Sandra Volk, chair; Katie Foehl, Josh Lockerby. Ken Carlson, Trail Trips Committee liaison; Doug Wilson, Climbing Committee liaison; Bronson Potter, council liaison.

Trail Trips

by Jim Selby

The Trail Trips Committee has 10 members and six friends of the committee who organize and carry out a wide variety of hiking opportunities, all as a part of a TTC strategic plan. The plan helps us focus on those activities that will have the greatest effect on hikers.

We sponsored more than 800 hikes and rambles. Rambles are held year-round on Tuesday and Thursday evenings at 6 p.m. from the NE Portland REI and on many Wednesdays from the MMC. The rambles accommodate all levels of hikers and are designed to take no more than two hours.

Hikes are also designed for all levels of hikers, including everything from a slow-paced walk in a nature area to fastpaced hikes at various elevations. Because wilderness areas have expanded over the past several years, many hikes are limited to 12 members and require a phone call to the leader. Otherwise, hikers just show up to hike. During the winter, snowshoe opportunities add variety to our offerings.

Mazama hike leaders also led five outings last year, from a week in Glacier National Park to nearly two weeks in Yosemite National Park. Seven backpacks of two or three nights were successful, from several in the Cascades to a trek in the Wallowas, as were Chuckwagon Hikes

at the lodge. The TTC also partnered with the Adventurous Young Mazamas and the Family Committee on joint hikes and hikes for children.

The Used Equipment Sale headed by Lori Coyner, Kathleen Hahn and Annie McCartney was a rousing success, taking in more than $20,000. Mazama members keep 70 percent of what is sold and the equipment goes to mostly new climbers and hikers. Hike Leader Appreciation Night in April was led by Sheri Alice Smith with excellent interactions between hikers and many door prizes.

Round-the-Mountain on Labor Day weekend was coordinated by Roger and Karen Anderson with more than 50 participants spending their days hiking around Mt. Hood and their evenings at Mazama Lodge.

Richard Getgen continues as treasurer for TTC, maintaining detailed and informative data on hikes led, people participating and funds collected.

We continue to monitor Forest Service road closures due to fires as well as proposed road closures that could affect hiking access.

Members: Rex Breunsbach and Jim Selby, co-chairs; Mitch Auerbach, Ken Carlson, Tom Dodson, Flora Huber, Regis Krug, Terry Lawson, Rick Pope, Marilyn Zigler.

Sojo Hendrix, council liaison.

Trail Teding Subcommittee

by Rick Pope

The Trail Tending Subcommittee recorded 270 volunteer hours of trail and conservation work; 198 hours were spent on U.S. Forest Service projects and 72 hours on other lands. The non-USFS hours were focused on the Tillamook 55

State Forest. Two of our adopted trails covered by work parties were the Mazama Trail and the Elk-King Traverse. In addition, the Bell Creek Trail in the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area was brushed out using a mix of Mazama members and local trail runners in a collaborative trip.

This year, for the first time, we formed a joint work party with Trail Keepers of Oregon who assisted on the Kings Mountain trip. This is just the start of what we expect to be other collaborative ventures in the coming years as local volunteer groups form partnerships and open better lines of communication.

Additional work not officially reportable were three private trips around the Elk-King Traverse performing scouting, brushing, log-out and register replacement. These trips were generally in reaction to field reports or preparation for official work parties. A future goal will be to generate a better list of quick responders along the model of a “hotshot crew” for rapid response and better safety.

Web signups and minimum party sizes will also ensure more reportable volunteer hours.

Early in the fiscal year the subcommittee completed the volunteer survey and discussed the results with our new volunteer coordinator. We now have better methods in place to announce upcoming trips and plans to integrate our program into other committees.

As a follow-up goal to previous years, we will strive again to boost the number of qualified trail-tending leaders in the near future, thus allowing an increase in trips and volunteer hours of work in the community.

Members: Richard Pope, chair; Ray Sheldon. Sojo Hendrix, council liaison. 

Executive Director’s Annual Report

by Lee Davis

This year was marked by dramatic Here are some highlights from 2013 changes in our staff structure, personnel for these areas of work: and community events as well as Capacity and Program Development continuing to break membership and Improving our capacity to deliver on attendance records. Overall, I believe the our mission is the most important of our most notable change though is in the goals. This year we hired Kati Mayfield improving community engagement this breadth of our investment in the Mazama as our first volunteer manager to support year. In 2012 we re-designed the Annual strategic plan. our committees and better connect our Celebration to be a sold-out success Chris Mackert, during her inspi- members’ interests in volunteering with and this year the event evolved into the rational three-term presidency (1998- all of our various volunteer opportuniPortland Alpine Fest that saw more than 2001) formed a long-range planning task ties. We added fitness, sport leading and 1200 attendees throughout the course of force that kicked off ongoing member ice climbing classes to our educational the week. We also developed partnerships surveys and strategic planning efforts. programs, and we created a structure to with the Access Fund, Outdoor AlliSeveral noteworthy early achievements expand crag trips to places like Yosemite, ance, the Wilderness Society and NW came out of those efforts, including the formation of the Education Committee, a huge expansion of our website in We had several big successes around improving commu2006 and the purchase and nity engagement this year. In 2012 we re-designed the Annual renovation of the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Celebration to be a sold-out success and this year the event In just the last few years evolved into the Portland Alpine Fest that saw more than 1200 (and with enormous help from Denis Lee and our straattendees throughout the course of the week. tegic planning committee), we now have a solid Strategic Plan that describes not just the top few things we should be Ouray, Smith Rock and Squamish, BC. Outward Bound School. We continued working on at Mazamas but a detailed Measuring our success in capacity our successful pro-athlete clinic series and coordinated plan to affect change building is easiest by looking at program and launched three new youth and family through the entire organization. Each of revenue and our membership numbers. climbing programs. our 32 committees is now paying close As I write this article, our membership is Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship attention to how they intend to change at 3,490 and revenue from education and and Communications manager is now and improve their programs in the future. activity programs last year reached an allalso the Regional Coordinator for the As I reported in the March Mazama time high of $313,000. This represents Access Fund, and we held a series of Bulletin, our plan is organized and focused a 10 percent improvement in memberevents with them, including the sold-out around three areas of improvement: ship and a 20 percent improvement in event at PRG with Chris Sharma and the • Capacity—more classes, hikes, climbs, program revenue from just two years ago. recent Adopt-a-Crag events at Beacon outings, ski trips, crag trips, expediThe other obvious capacity improve- Rock and Smith Rock State Parks. tions, grants, information resources, ment at Mazamas in 2013 was in our Kati Mayfield, our volunteer manager, administrative support, etc. administrative staff. Starting in January also helped to launch three successful • Community Engagement—making we completely restructured and trained youth pilot programs this year. Dan Leone sure everyone who plays in the moun- a new staff. We now have five dedicated held a youth climbing class similar to our tains knows and appreciates the employees focused on both adminisBasic Rock Skills class. Adventure Wild Mazamas and increasing our partner- tering our programs and improving the used the auditorium for two weeks of ship relationships both with the public Mazamas. I’m very excited to be working kids’ outdoor-oriented day camps and we and private sector with Kati, Adam, Jamie and Sarah. partnered with Northwest Youth Corps • Value of Membership—understanding They’re all exceptionally skilled and hard to bring a team of high school kids to what matters to you, our members, working individuals who are dedicated to the summit of South Sister. Bob Murphy, and making sure that what you get for our mission and our community.

Justin Ford and Craig Martin also cooryour $60 per year is an overwhelmingly dinated with Jamie Anderson and Kati Community Engagement good deal We had several big successes around to develop new family programs. All of

“

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STRATEGY capacity

community engagement

value of membership

The strategy for restructuring Mazama staff this year has been to look seriously at the idea of having an employee specifically dedicated to each of our three main strategic goals.

these expanded partnerships are bringing new people and new diversity to the Mazamas and expanding our reach into the community.

Value of Membership This is the area of focus where we strive for membership satisfaction. We measure our success by how many of our members renew their dues each year. In early 2013 our retention rate reached 90 percent which is simply unprecedented among mountaineering clubs.

The improvement that is most visible to you, our members, were those made to the Mazama Bulletin. Sarah Bradham and the Publications Committee started this year with the vision of creating a more general interest magazine and generally improving publication quality. This year we added 12 pages (one third in color), improved the paper quality, are publishing online through issuu.com and have increased advertising revenue by more than 50 percent.

Mazama Lodge continues to operate in the black and attendance is high, mainly due to the careful and enthusiastic management of Charles Barker and Max Rupert. This last year we invested in several capital projects to improve the

lodge and you will see when you visit that the lodge is in very good repair: We repainted the exterior, refinished the hardwood floors and installed shower stalls, bunk guards and even added a teepee for the summer! We also finished the design work and submitted an application to the USFS to expand winter parking at Mazama Lodge. Thanks especially to the Lodge Committee, Chris Negelspach, Ron Sikes, Rick Craycraft, Keith Campbell, Al Papesh and Bob Stayton for their help with the lodge this year.

The Mazama Mountaineering Center remains well cared for and the ASI committee started planning to add an ice climbing wall in the auditorium. Next, more than 2- volunteers, including Jon Jurevic, Patrice Cook, Tom Bard and David Byrne as well as the Mazamas Foundation Board, Executive Council and staff coordinated to research the feasibility of someday having a Mazama facility at Smith Rock State Park. The foundation then secured a five-year purchase option agreement on a three-acre parcel adjacent to the parking lot at the park. We initiated a member survey and open house to gather feedback on the project and plan to do the same in Terrebonne in early 2014.

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And finally, after nearly two years of effort, we negotiated a workable partnership with the American Alpine Club.

Currently our joint membership offering with the AAC represents the cheapest way for anyone in the world to be an AAC member. Nearly 300 people have signed up for the joint membership this year alone.

Summary Having a great year creates even greater expectations for the next, and we’re working hard with all of our committees, council and the Mazamas Foundation to focus our resources on our mission and our strategic plan. As we move forward, it’s critically important that we hear from you, our members, on how we’re doing.

Please feel free to call or write me at lee@mazamas.org and tell me how we’re doing. Your support, through membership, donations and feedback is critical to Mazamas long-term success. I’m continually honored to have the opportunity to work as your executive Ddrector and to spend my time working to create lifetimes of enjoying and protecting the mountains. 

Volunteer Manager’s Report

by Kati Mayfield

What a great year for volunteers at the Mazamas! We benefitted from the services of more than 500 volunteers during the year, who together gave a total of 91,000 hours of service.

I’ve had a great first year as the volunteer manager, and I’m proud to say that as of July, I am officially a Mazama member! I felt welcomed from the moment I arrived, but standing on top of South Sister made me feel as though I had truly become a part of this terrific community.

With the help of my colleagues and volunteers, I accomplished a number of the major goals for my position in its first year. The largest of those was writing the Volunteer Management Plan. This document lays out five years of steps we will take to strategically improve our volunteer program. The goals and strategies laid out in the Volunteer Management Plan will streamline the operations of our volunteer program (both in committees and overall) and expand our volunteer opportunities.

The plan grew out of 10 months of research, including individual interviews with members and volunteers. The Volunteer Task Force and I conducted detailed interviews with 24 of our Mazama committees. The engine of our volunteer program, our committees, counts on 234 volunteers serving directly on committees and hundreds of additional volunteers running programs and activities. Interviews with committees enabled us to identify the strengths and weaknesses of our volunteer program and to propose ways to improve the way we work with volunteers.

I am grateful to Marty Hanson, Anne Keegan, Walter Keutel, Tim Scott, Colleen Sinsky and Paul Steger for their diligent work on the Volunteer Task Force.

In addition to drafting the Volunteer Management Plan, we successfully: • reinstated the Volunteer Opportunities Column in the Mazama Bulletin • created a Volunteer Handbook—to be reviewed by the Governing Documents Committee and the Executive Council and implemented in the coming year • drafted a Volunteer Code of Ethics and Conduct and instituted a RespectNow! Task Force to address the way we deal with conflicts • investigated and resolved volunteer disputes • intervened with struggling committees in order to lend assistance • revamped the Committee Orientation event • supported the 2013 Round-the-Mountain event One of the highlights for me in the past year was working with members of the Youth Task Force to run pilot programs that introduced kids to climbing and mountaineering. Three programs were introduced this summer: a “learn to belay”

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camp for 9- to 15-year-olds at the MMC, spearheaded by Dan Leone and Gary Ballou; a South Sister climb with our partners, Northwest Youth Corps, led by Eileen Kiely and assisted

by Thomas Nancarrow; and a day camp at the MMC, run by Adventure WILD for the benefit of the Portland Outdoor School.

Our only setback this year was losing ground on selecting a new database. Still, with Sarah Bradham’s help, we have new ways to track volunteer involvement in our existing database and can therefore begin keeping better records on volunteers.

If you volunteered at the Mazamas this past year, thank you!

If you didn’t, we’ll see you in 2014!

Mazama Membership Report October 2012–September 2013

by Meg Goldberg, Secretary

Total membership as of Oct. 1, 2013 . . . . . . . . . . . . 3,393 Total membership as of Oct. 1, 2012 . . . . . . . . . . . . 3,251 Members Added New members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 Members reinstated . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Total members added . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541 Members Lost Resigned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Dropped . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 Deceased . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Total members lost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399 Net gain for the year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Status of Membership Honorary members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 25-year (or more) members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 695 50-year (or more) members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Spouse members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Youth members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Oregon members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2,853 Washington members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 All other locations members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176

The Mazamas Foundation the climbing community at large. Since this is, according to members, the second-most visited climbing destination for our membership, we decided to purchase a four-year option to buy the property. During that period, we will determine the feasibility of building and managing a facility at the location. At that point, if not sooner, a decision will be made about whether or not to finalize the purchase of the property. To date, the foundation has spent $6,000 for the first-year option and about $10,849 for legal fees, feasibility studies and plans for the site.

As of September 2013, long-term foundation assets are valued at slightly more than $2.8 million. That is up $400,000 from this time last year. About half of the increase is due to investment returns and the other half is due to a large estate gift from a deceased member. In addition, the MMC is valued at approximately $1.6 million.

The Mazamas Foundation also distributed $107,000 to the Mazamas this fiscal year to offset operating expenses. The plan is to increase that amount to $115,000 next fiscal year.

Special thanks to departing board member Cheryl Harris, who spent two years as treasurer for the foundation. This is truly duty above and beyond.

Mazamas Foundation Board: Rick Schmidt, president; Steve Hooker, treasurer; Brian Lawrence, secretary; Patrice Cook, Dan Crisp, Cheryl Harris, Gerry Itkin. ď ľ

by Rick Schmidt

Created in 1997, the Mazamas Foundation is a legal entity separate from the Mazamas. The purpose of the foundation is to support the Mazamas in its missions of climber education and conservation. The foundation board manages its long-term endowment assets to generate income that is distributed to the Mazamas to help offset operating expenses. The foundation also has ownership of the MMC, the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

The foundation board is composed of seven members who each have at least five years in the organization. Each board member brings a unique set of skills to the table but most have a background in the finance, accounting or legal fields.

It has been an especially busy year for the board. Our new website was launched in an effort to bring more attention to the foundation and begin an outreach campaign to our members that encourages them to make the Mazamas a part of their estate plan. Members can contribute to the long-term endowment knowing that their gift will continue to support the efforts of the Mazamas in perpetuity. Please take a minute to look at our website at www.mazamasfoundation.org.

The board also approved funds to determine if the foundation should purchase property near Smith Rock State Park for the construction of a facility to serve our membership and

“Dude, have you heard of the Mazamas?�

Photo: Chelsea Heveran

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Treasurer’s Report

by Terry Donahe

Fiscal Year Oct. 1, 2012–Sept. 30, 2013 This organization was founded by 105 men and women (the original charter members) in 1894 on the summit of Mt. Hood. The founders were among the leaders of Portland.

While we do not have financial records that date back to 1894, we can probably assume that the Mazamas lacked a bank account much less a building and a foundation.

Today we have more than 3,300 members. Our net worth (assets minus liabilities) is just under $1.5 million.

The Mazamas Foundation, a separate legal entity from the Mazamas, has net assets of $3.6 million, including the Mazama Mountaineering Center and the Mazama Lodge.

Your Executive Council is entrusted with maintaining the financial strength of this great organization. As the treasurer, I am pleased to share with you that Mazamas is strong financially and is investing in the continued growth and expansion of our mission—to promote mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

The organization generates revenue by offering educational programs (e.g. classes) and activities (e.g. hikes, climbs and outings). We incur expenses related primarily to staff and the programs and activities we offer.

Two years ago, in 2011, the Executive Council embraced a proposal by our executive director, Lee Davis, that we invest $78,000 over four years ($34,000 this fiscal year) to expand our paid staff and thereby our ability to deliver to our members and the community more and better educational programs and activities. This investment was anticipated to result in operating losses in each of the next fiscal years. These losses would be covered by using our reserve funds (i.e. our savings). However, these losses are expected to be reduced in each subsequent year as new and expanded programs and activities generate additional revenue for the organization.

During fiscal year 2012-2013, the executive council also approved an additional $10,000 for paid staff, $36,750 to improve and maintain our facilities, and $6,250 for design work for a new parking lot at Mazama lodge. Thus, the total planned loss for the year was $87,000. This additional spending was also taken from our reserve funds.

The organization was blessed with a very large $360,000 estate gift. So, while we were expecting to reduce our savings by approximately $87,000 during the 2012-2013 fiscal year, our unrestricted cash reserves actually increased by $273,000 to $635,000.

The financial statements and tax filings of the Mazamas are available to members through the office at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

2013 Expenses

2013 Revenue Foundation & Misc. Income—9%

Activities—5% Educational Programs—9%

Facilities—13% Fundraising —1%

Member Dues—12% Contributions —52%

Activities & Outings—2%

Member Services—3%

Grants—27% General & Admin—35%

Educational Programs—18%

Facilities—13%

Member Services—10%

REVENUE Membership Dues Member Services Educational Programs

EXPENSES 155,243

General & Admin.

325,645

34,237

Member Services

95,908

Educational Programs

81,797

220,254

Facilities

50,251

Activities

51,054

Activities & Outings

30,600

Facilities

121,511

Contributions

642,869

Fundraising

Foundation & Misc. Income

112,682

Grants

TOTAL REVENUE

1,246,135

TOTAL EXPENSES 60

12,394

250,785 939,094

Fiscal Year 2012–2013 Consolidated Budget Report Unaudited Report REVENUE: Foundation Distribution Contributions Member Dues Membership Activity Annual Celebration Income Presentation & Conference Income Education Activity Income Activity Income Net Outing Income Library Income Lodge Program Income Merchandise and Book Sales Advertising Income Fundraising Income In Kind Donations Interest Income Miscellaneous Income TOTAL REVENUE: EXPENSES: Personnel Expenses Contract and Professional Services Equipment Lease & Rental Maintenance & Repairs Donations and Grants Given Marketing Expense Fundraising Expense Membership Services Merchandise Expense Facility Expense Photography & Video Postage Printing & Reproduction Dues & Subscriptions Supplies Telecommunications Travel & Mileage Program Expenses Activity Expenses Lodge Expenses Bank & Merchant Fees Property Taxes & Fees Insurance Expenses

Actual as of 9/30/13 107,500 616,133 155,243 2,735 4,636 8,315 220,254 20,238 10,362 500 50,251 6,519 11,533 23,624 3,112 127 5,054 1,246,135

Annual Budget 106,812 37,200 150,000 6,150 4,500 2,200 232,030 22,390 7,000 300 54,000 12,500 8,500 21,300 4,500 2,000 671,382

Variance* 688 578,933 5,243 (3,415) 136 6,115 (11,776) (2,152) 3,362 200 (3,749) (5,981) 3,033 2,324 3,112 (4,373) 3,054 574,753

% of Budget Realized Goal 100% 101% 1656% 103% 44% 103% 378% 95% 90% 148% 167% 93% 52% 136% 111%

3% 253% 189%

225,945 71,785 12,388 7,527 250,785 1,965 12,394 21,487 18,146 18,551 9,143 11,295 26,774 2,798 20,308 16,005 20,467 13,893 9,703 55,936 10,043 24,998 76,757

198,950 62,110 10,700 2,300 38,500 3,200 13,600 35,195 16,690 18,001 3,350 10,795 34,850 3,568 24,180 12,500 21,600 11,700 15,510 37,040 11,800 21,611 97,832

26,995 9,675 1,688 5,227 212,285 (1,235) (1,206) (13,708) 1,456 550 5,793 500 (8,076) (770) (3,872) 3,505 (1,133) 2,193 (5,807) 18,896 (1,757) 3,387 (21,075)

114% 116% 116% 327% 651% 61% 91% 61% 109% 103% 273% 105% 77% 78% 84% 128% 95% 119% 63% 151% 85% 116% 78%

TOTAL EXPENSES

939,094

705,582

233,512

146%

CHANGE IN OPERATIONS

307,041 15,342 291,699

(34,200)

341,241 15,342 256,212

Depreciation Expenses

CHANGE IN NET ASSETS

61

(34,200)

Mazama 2013 Awards A Lifetime of Enjoying and Protecting the Mountains Honorary Member: Jack Grauer

by Kati Mayfield

In 1947 Charles Henry Sholes—“the grand old patriarch of the Mazamas flock”—passed away. But that was also the year that Jack Grauer, future patriarch, joined the organization and began his astonishing career of contributions to the Mazamas and to the outdoors.

John “Jack” Grauer joined the Mazamas in August of 1947 at 27 years of age. His adventurous spirit and love for skiing had already led him to explore Mt. Hood (he has since summited Mt. Hood 226 times). Jack was sponsored by Donald G. Onthank and he paid $5 for his membership dues. Skiing remained Jack’s primary sport until 1954 when he “developed a raging case of ‘climbing fever’ that never did subside.”

Climbing fever and natural leadership abilities propelled Jack through the Mazama ranks. He got involved with Mazama climbing schools in 1954, led his first Mt. Hood climb in 1955, and was elected to both the Climbing Committee and Executive Council in 1956.

A fervent explorer, Jack pioneered new instructional areas for the climbing schools. Those of us who have done our BCEP field sessions at Horsethief can thank Jack, who discovered

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Horsethief Butte and began using it for rock practice.

Jack also proved his tenacity early on. When the beloved Mazama Lodge burned down in 1958, Jack led the charge to fundraise and rebuild it, completing the project in just over a year. In recognition of this remarkable feat, the Mazamas awarded him the Parker Cup in 1960. The Mazama Annual from that year relates, “this was a task which called for all of his resources of tact, understanding, physical and mental drive, ability for hard work, purchasing ability, mechanical ability, ability to work with others, ability to get the most out of volunteer laborers and the most out of materials at hand.”

The Mazamas then elected him to another term on Executive Council in 1961 and as president in 1963.

A leader on the mountain, at the construction site and in the boardroom, Jack has also initiated many efforts to document and preserve the legacy of our organization and of our region. He wrote many Mazama histories, including a History of Mazama Climbing Schools in 1964 and Mazamas Centennial—An Overview, looking back on 100 years of the Mazamas in 1994. For many years Jack edited the Mazama Annual and remains an active member of the Mazama Publications Committee, contributing articles and regular segments like “Time Warp” to the Mazama Bulletin. Over the years, members have also enjoyed reading tales of his adventures.

Of special note is Jack’s Mt. Hood, A Complete History, first published in 1975. For this thoroughly researched and immensely useful book, Jack was awarded the Redman Cup in 1992. Now in its eighth edition, this book remains the go-to resource for those of us seeking to learn about the mountain.

Not surprisingly, considering his “climbing fever,” Jack has also received the highest Mazama climbing accolades.

He was awarded the 16 Peaks Award in 1987 and received the Leuthold Award in 1988. Ray Sheldon, who also stood on stage in 1988 to receive a Leuthold Award, fondly recalls what it was like to climb with Jack: “His long legs made his climbing a stroll while the rest of us had to go at a pretty fast clip. But he would ease the strain by breaking out in song every once in a while. Hearing his solo of The Happy Wanderer echo through the woods was a real treat.”

For his spirit and enthusiasm, and for more than 65 years of leadership and service, it only seems natural that Jack Grauer now joins ranks with those who, beginning with John Muir in 1894, have been awarded honorary membership in the Mazamas.

Climbing Awards

Mazama Awards

16 Peaks • Kevin Clark • Pamela Gilmer • Marty Guenther • Linda Mark

Parker Cup—Darrell Weston

Oregon Cascades

The Parker Cup is given annually to recognize the member who has rendered services of the greatest benefit to the club during the past year. It is named after Alfred E. Parker, who was president of the club in 1925.

• Julie A. Bronder • Ryan Christie • Larry E. Miller

Guardian Peaks

Montague Cup—Bob Lothian

• Sharon Birchfield • Julie A. Bronder • Ardel Frick • Kathleen Hahn • Sojo Hendrix • Marty Hinkle • Mark Korsness • Mike Levis • Rico Micallef • Barry O’Mahony

The Richard Ward Montague Mazama Conservation Award recognizes outstanding conservationists in our organization who have demonstrated a long-term commitment to the cause of environmental protection and preservation.

Hardesty Cup—Rex Breunsbach The Hardesty Cup is awarded to the person who has accumulated the most leader points on trail trips over their hike-leading career. It was named after William J. Hardesty, who started the hiking program in 1912 and was Mazama president in 1917. Hardesty left his estate to the club, which is the basis for the Mazama Foundation.

Trail Trips Awards

Honorary Member—Jack Grauer

Leadership

This award is the highest form of recognition the Mazamas can bestown on an individual. We present it to those who have distinguished themselves in mountaineering, conservation, exploration or service to the organization.

• 700 Leads–Marty Hanson • 600 Leads–Tom Guyot • 500 Leads–David Braem • 300 Leads–Terry Sherbeck • 200 Leads–Wayne L. Lincoln, Kent Meyer • 150 Leads–Rex Breunsbach, Daniel Van Rossen • 100 Leads–Amy Brown, Meg Linza • 50 Leads–Sherry Bourdin, Bob Breivogel, Terry Lawson, Laura Niemeyer, Rick Pope, Sheri Alice Smith • 25 Leads–Whit Fellers, Kurt Hiland, Laura Niemeyer, Kirby Young

Innovation in Education— Steve Heikkila The Innovation in Education Award is presented by the Annual Celebration Committee to the Mazama who led the greatest advancements in our educational programs over the past year.

Leuthold Award—Steve Warner The recipient of this award must have successfully led official Mazama climbs of all 16 of the major northwest peaks and contributed many hours of leadership to other Mazama activities. It is seldom awarded and cannot be applied for. It was established in 1964.

Mileage • 2,000 miles–Rex Breunsbach, Marilyn Zigler • 1,000 miles–Marilyn Zigler • 500 miles–Larry Solomon • 250 miles–Carole Beauclerk, Cleopatra Bucur, Gisela Davisson, Karl Kratzer, Gary Riggs, Tony Spiering, Marilyn Zigler

Terry Becker Award—Tim Scott The Terry Becker Award recognizes those who have led the 16 major northwest peaks. It is in honor of Terry Becker, who died descending the Wills Gratli Ridge on the Wetterhorn in the Swiss Alps. He was an accomplished climber and past Mazama president.

Nordic Leadership Award • Karl Steady

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6/6 4/2 7/7 8/0 9/8 4/0 5/0 8/8 6/0 5/0 5/0 12/0 12/0 8/8 10/10 8/8 8/8 7/7 9/0 5/5 6/5 11/9 8/6 5/4 5/5 10/10 7/6 7/7 11/11 4/4 10/9 10/9 4/0 5/5 6/6 9/8 6/6 9/9 12/12 8/0 12/12 11/11 8/8 8/6 12/12 7/6 9/9 7/7 6/5 12/11

Start/Finish

Leader/Assistant

Ken Searl/Marty Guenther Rick Posekany/Matt Carter Ken Searl/Rob Parker Daniel Bailey/Caleb Sattgast Ken Searl/Rob Parker Amy Mendenhall/Lisa Brady Gregory Willmarth/Jennifer Van Houten Ken Searl/Karl Helser Jay Satak/Paul Underwood Jill Kellogg/Rick Craycraft Michael Hortsch/Keith Campbell Ken Searl/Pam Gilmer Darrell Weston/April Wolstencroft Bob Breivogel/Pam Rigor Larry Beck/Tim Hale Steve Warner/Justin Colquhoun Steve Warner/Justin Colquhoun Chris Kruell/Elliot Shuford Richard Bronder/Nick Olsen Robert Joy/Whit Fellers Joe Whittington/Nathan Pier Tim Scott/Patrick Taylor Bruce Yatvin/Doug Brumfield Amy Mendenhall/Michelle Van Kleeck Ryan Christie/Steve Burton George Shay/Justin Colquhoun Andrew Bodien/Karl Langenwalter Glenn Widener/Jeff Hawkins Gregory Willmarth/Seeger Fisher Darrell Weston/Shannon Wells Gary Bishop/Howie Davis Gary Bishop/Howie Davis Donna Vandall/Ellen Gradison Bob Breivogel/Tom Davidson John Godino/Matthew Sundling Amy Mendenhall/Mike Leonard-Maguire Carol Bryan/Beth Copeland Daniel Bailey/Erin Wirtz Bob Breivogel/Pam Rigor Shirley Welch/ Matt Sundling Amy Mendenhall/Walter Keutel Jay Satak/Lynne Pedersen Tian Lan/Joshua Lupkin Bruce Yatvin/ Patrice Cook – Sue Dimin Glenn Widener/Karl Helser Robert Joy/Whit Fellers Carol Bryan/Ken Biehler Chris Kruell/Chris Killmer Eileen Kiely/Cloudy Sears Tim Scott/Tara Gedman

Date Mountain, Route

1/1/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 1/19/13 Aconcagua, False Polish Traverse 1/21/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 2/9/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 2/10/13 Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows 2/11/13 Mt. Hood, South Side 2/18/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 3/9/13 Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows 3/9/13 Mt. Hood, South Side 3/9/13 Mt. Hood, South Side 4/27/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 4/28/13 Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows 4/28/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 5/1/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 5/3/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 5/4/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 5/4/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 5/4/13 Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows 5/4/13 Mt. Hood, West Crater Rim 5/5/13 Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute 5/7/13 Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge 5/7/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 5/8/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 5/9/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 5/11/13 Diamond Peak, West Ridge 5/11/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 5/11/13 Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute 5/11/13 Mt. Hood, Ladd Glacier 5/11/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 5/12/13 Mt. Hood, Cooper Spur 5/12/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 5/12/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 5/13/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 5/18/13 Mt. Hood, Wy’east 5/20/13 Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir 5/20/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 5/25/13 Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute 5/26/13 Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge 5/26/13 Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek 5/31/13 Eagle Peak, Eagle Peak trail 6/1/13 Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute 6/2/13 Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute 6/2/13 Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch 6/2/13 Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek 6/2/13 Mt. Shuksan, White Salmon Glacier 6/2/13 Shastina, Cascade Gulch 6/2/13 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake 6/3/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 6/5/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 6/6/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute

8/8 7/7 9/9 11/9 8/8 7/6 7/7 8/7 10/10 10/10 7/7 11/11 6/6 4/4 7/7 6/6 6/4 6/6 8/7 10/10 7/6 8/8 11/7 5/5 8/0 6/6 12/12 10/10 10/10 12/11 7/7 7/7 7/7 5/5 9/9 7/7 11/11 7/7 8/8 8/0 7/7 11/0 8/8 8/4 9/8 5/5 6/0 8/0 7/7 6/6

Start/Finish

Leader/Assistant Daniel Bailey/Barbara Weiss Doug Wilson/Tim Scott Steve Warner/Ken Biehler Matt Carter/Roger Wong Kevin Clark/Brad Unruh Jeffrey Welter/Paul Montgomery Jon Major/Jon Bonnet Amy Mendenhall/Gary Ballou Bob Breivogel/Ann Marie McCartney Bob Breivogel/Walter Keutel Doug Wilson/Tim Scott Gregory Willmarth/Marta Martinez Daniel Bailey/Karin Masunari Eileen Kiely/Jennifer Van Houten Carol Bryan/Dan Crisp Hugh Brown/David Zeps Andrew Bodien/Ted Slupesky Steven Heikkila/Laura Guderyahn Daniel Bailey/Caleb Sattgast Gary Bishop/Howie Davis Eileen Kiely/Shawn Murphy Lisa Brady/Richard Bronder Amy Mendenhall/Michelle Van Kleeck Jeffrey Welter/Craig Hanneman Linda E. Mark/Whit Fellers Eileen Kiely/ Erin Wirtz Tom Elmer/John Creager Ryan Christie/Darrell Weston Jay Satak/John Meckel Paul Steger/Eric Hoem Jill Kellogg/Eugene Lewins Doug Wilson/Tom Baughman Rayce Boucher/Lisa Ripps Azure Olson/Darrell Weston Donna Vandall/Dan Crisp James Jula/Bianca Pyko James Jula/Elizabeth Cole Bob Breivogel/Jay Avery Tim Scott/Patrick Taylor Tian Lan/Ryan Maher Doug Wilson/Tom Baughman John Meckel/Al Papesh Ryan Christie/Michael Hortsch Ryan Christie/Michael Hortsch Daniel Bailey/Shane Harlson Shirley Welch/Marty Scott Bob Breivogel/Tom Dodson Eileen Kiely/ Thomas Nancarrow Gregory Willmarth/Patrice Cook Jeffrey Welter/Joe Steigerwald

Date Mountain, Route

6/7/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 6/8/13 Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute 6/8/13 Mt. Hood, South Side 6/8/13 Mt. Hood, West Crater Rim 6/8/13 Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge 6/8/13 Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver 6/8/13 Mt. Ruth, Ruth Glacier 6/8/13 Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch 6/8/13 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake 6/9/13 Castle/Pinnacle, Reflection Lake 6/9/13 Mt. Angeles, East Ridge 6/9/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 6/9/13 Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge 6/9/13 South Sister, Prouty Glacier 6/9/13 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake 6/14/13 Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows 6/14/13 Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek 6/15/13 Lane Peak, The Zipper 6/15/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 6/15/13 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake 6/16/13 Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek 6/17/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 6/17/13 Mt. Hood, Old Chute 6/22/13 Mt. Adams, Adams Glacier 6/22/13 Mt. Stone, West Ridge 6/22/13 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge 6/22/13 Mt. Washington (Olympics), Big Creek 6/22/13 Mt. Yoran, East Ridge 6/22/13 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake 6/28/13 Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier 6/28/13 South Sister, Devils Lake 6/29/13 Castle/Pinnacle, Reflection Lake 6/29/13 Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier 6/29/13 Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier 6/29/13 The Brothers, South Couloir 6/29/13 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake 6/30/13 Castle/Pinnacle, Reflection Lake 6/30/13 Mt. Adams, Avalanche-White Salmon G 6/30/13 Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier 6/30/13 Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver 6/30/13 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake 7/3/13 Sawtooth Mountain, Northeast Ridge 7/5/13 Colchuck Peak, East Side 7/5/13 Dragontail Peak, West Ridge 7/6/13 Mt. Adams, Adams Glacier 7/6/13 Aiguille de Toule, East Ridge 7/6/13 Mt. Constance, College Route 7/6/13 Little Tahoma, Frying Pan Glacier 7/6/13 Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier 7/6/13 Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier

2013 Official Mazama Climbs

65

Steve Warner/Andreas Wunderle Gary Bishop/Lisa Brady Lisa Brady/Gary Bishop Doug Couch/Bill Dewsnap Tim Scott/Derek Castonguay Tom Elmer/John Creager Gary Ballou/Amy Mendenhall Jon Major/Mark Meyer Lynne Pedersen/Marty Guenther Bill McLoughlin/Lisa Ripps Azure Olson/Linda Mark George Shay/ Joe Eberhardt Marty Scott/Shirley Welch Rayce Boucher/Lynne Pedersen Gregory Willmarth/Dave Pyszkowski Jill Kellogg/Deb Hill Daniel Bailey/Walter Keutel Steven Heikkila/Derek Castonguay Bob Breivogel/Pam Rigor Rick Posekany/ Joel Nigg Richard Bronder/Ted Slupesky Matt Carter/Wade Shelton Andrew Bodien/Jeff Jackson Donna Vandall/Tom Davidson Amy Mendenhall/Michelle VanKleeck George Cummings/Mark Curran John Godino/Kirstin Labudda Patrice Cook/Mark Korsness Steven Heikkila/Derek Castonguay Robert Caldwell/Sherry Bourdin Wim Aarts/Marty Guenther George Shay/Steve Warner Tim Scott/Linda Mark Steve Warner/Rico Micallef Paul Underwood/Beck, Larry Richard Caldwell/ Tom Bard Robert Caldwell/Alex Lockard Rayce Boucher/Lisa Ripps Robert Caldwell/Virginia Tarango Carol Bryan/Chris Rears John Meckel/Al Papesh John Meckel/Al Papesh Daniel Bailey/Shane Harlson Bob Breivogel/Pam Rigor Bob Breivogel/Pam Rigor Hugh Brown/Jim Ronning Rick Posekany/Jessica Deans Richard Bronder/Ted Slupesky Jon Major/Jonathan Meyers Richard Bronder/Ted Slupesky Bruce Yatvin/Carol Bryan Bob Breivogel/Paul Steger Matt Carter/Quentin Carter Lynne Pedersen/Grant Causton

7/7/13 Mt. Adams, South Side 7/7/13 Mt. Blanc du Tacul, Standard 7/11/13 Mt. Blanc, Gouter 7/12/13 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake 7/13/13 Mt. Buckner, North Face 7/13/13 Mt. Constance, Finger Traverse 7/13/13 Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge 7/13/13 Snowking, Kindy Ridge 7/14/13 Mt. Adams, South Side 7/14/13 Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier 7/14/13 Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver 7/14/13 Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek 7/15/13 Rocher des Mottes, Voie Caline 7/17/13 The Tooth, South Face 7/19/13 Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier 7/20/13 Mt. Adams, South Side 7/20/13 Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver 7/20/13 Mt. Shuksan, Price Glacier 7/21/13 Chiwawa Peak, Red Mountain trail 7/21/13 Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier 7/21/13 Mt. Adams, South Side 7/21/13 Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier 7/21/13 Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier 7/22/13 Gannett Peak (WY), Gooseneck Glacier 7/22/13 Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier 7/24/13 Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge 7/26/13 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge 7/27/13 Mt. Adams, South Side 7/27/13 Forbidden Peak, West Ridge 7/27/13 Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge 7/27/13 Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys 7/27/13 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge 7/28/13 Bacon Peak SW Route 7/28/13 Mt. Bailey, Standard 7/28/13 Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier 7/28/13 Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats 7/28/13 Union Peak, Standard 7/29/13 Middle Sister, Renfrew Galcier 7/29/13 Mt. Bailey, Standard 7/31/13 Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier 8/3/13 South Sister, Green Lakes 8/4/13 Broken Top, NW Ridge 8/4/13 South Sister, Devils Lake 8/6/13 Mt. Baal (Id.), South Ridge 8/6/13 She Devil (Id.), NE Ridge 8/9/13 Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier 8/10/13 3 Finger Jack, South Ridge 8/10/13 Castle/Pinnacle/Plummer, Standard 8/10/13 Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge 8/11/13 Eagle/Chutla, Eagle Peak trail 8/13/13 Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier 8/13/13 Thompson Peak(Id.), South Couloir 8/14/13 Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier 8/17/13 Castle Peak, Standard

9/9 4/4 4/4 8/8 4/4 6/0 8/8 4/4 7/0 4/4 6/0 10/0 5/5 7/7 8/8 6/6 11/0 6/0 7/4 10/0 12/10 10/10 6/5 6/5 8/8 6/6 11/11 4/4 6/6 5/5 6/6 8/8 5/0 4/4 11/11 7/6 5/5 7/7 5/5 5/5 11/11 12/12 5/5 6/5 6/5 6/6 9/9 12/12 8/8 12/12 8/8 6/3 5/5 9/0

Start/Finish

Leader/Assistant

Date Mountain, Route 12/12 10/10 5/5 4/0 10/10 4/0 6/6 6/6 4/3 8/8 6/6 7/6 6/6 7/7 6/6 6/0 8/6 6/6 7/0 7/6 12/12 8/8 4/4 8/8 7/6 7/7 6/6 5/5 4/4 8/8 7/7 6/0 5/4 4/4 10/10 6/0 11/11 8/8 7/7 4/4 4/4 4/4 8/8 4/4 7/7 8/6 12/12 9/9 8/8 8/8 6/6 5/5 6/6

Start/Finish

Amy Mendenhall/Larry Beck Lori Freeman/Ania Wiktorowicz Linda E. Mark/Greg Scott Tim Scott/ Leah Ilem Lisa Ripps/Michael Hynes Lynne Pedersen/Grant Causton Gary Bishop/Terry Donahe Gary Bishop/Terry Donahe George Shay/Franciso Ianni Daniel Bailey/Walter Keutel Gary Bishop/Terry Donahe Ray Sheldon/ Stan Enevoldsen Gary Bishop/Terry Donahe Ray Sheldon/Gary Beyl Gary Bishop/Terry Donahe Gary Bishop/ Terry Donahe James Jula/Karen Vernier Jeffrey Welter/Eric Brainich Gary Beck/ Dan Pyszkowski Eugene Lewins/Rebecca Schob Josh Lockerby/Ania Wiktorowicz Ellen Gradison/Garry Stephenson Rayce Boucher/Preston Corless Larry Beck/Gary Ballou Robert Joy/Whit Fellers Andrew Bodien/Colleen Sinsky Gary Bishop/Howie Davis Doug Wilson/Drew Gaylord Rayce Boucher/John Meckel Rick Posekany/Peter Tuazon Vaqas Malik/Brad Wood Andrew Bodien/Colleen Sinsky Doug Wilson/Cathy Gaylord Eileen Kiely/Elizabeth Cole Bruce Yatvin/Ted Slupesky Daniel Bailey/ Ania Wiktorowicz Lori Freeman/Monica Lyster Bruce Yatvin/Amy Mendenhall Kevin Clark/Karl Helser Ray Sheldon/Stan Enevoldsen Marty Scott/Shirley Welch Shirley Welch/Marty Scott Rayce Boucher/Lee Davis Eugene Lewins/Bob Gravely Kevin Clark/Justin Elson Rayce Boucher/John Meckel John Godino/Ryan Christie Lori Freeman/Jeanne Shults Gary Bishop/Trent Carlisle Amy Mendenhall/Grant Causton Daniel Bailey/Justin Brady Matthew Sundling/Steve Heikkila Daniel Bailey/Justin Brady

Leader/Assistant

8/17/13 Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier 8/17/13 South Sister, Devils Lake 8/18/13 Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier 8/18/13 Mt. Logan, Fremont Glacier 8/18/13 Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats 8/18/13 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake 8/19/13 Aneroid Mountain, Standard 8/20/13 Cusick Mountain, North Ridge 8/20/13 Mt. Adams, South Side 8/20/13 Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier 8/20/13 Sentinel Peak, Standard 8/20/13 Silver Peak, South Ridge 8/21/13 Eagle Cap, Standard 8/22/13 Guye Peak, North Ridge 8/23/13 Matterhorn, Ice lake 8/23/13 Sacajawea, Ice lake 8/24/13 Broken Top, NW Ridge 8/24/13 Mt. Buckner, North Face 8/24/13 Diamond Peak, South Ridge 8/24/13 Luna Peak, SW Ridge 8/24/13 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge 8/28/13 Mt. Washington, North Ridge 8/30/13 Vesper Peak, North Face 8/31/13 3 Finger Jack, South Ridge 8/31/13 Black Peak, SE Ridge 8/31/13 Matterhorn/Sacajawea, Ice Lake 8/31/13 Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir 8/31/13 Mt. Maude, South Shoulder 8/31/13 Sperry Peak, NW Ridge 9/1/13 3 Finger Jack, South Ridge 9/1/13 Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys 9/1/13 Pete’s Point, East Ridge 9/1/13 Seven Finger Jack, Southwest Slope 9/2/13 Boundary & Plummer Peaks, Standard 9/2/13 Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge 9/7/13 North Sister, South Ridge 9/7/13 South Sister, Devils Lake 9/8/13 Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge 9/8/13 Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge 9/10/13 Plummer/Pinnacle Saddle 9/10/13 South Early Winter Spire, South Arete 9/11/13 North Early Winter Spire, South Face 9/14/13 Del Campo Peak, South Gully 9/14/13 Dumbell Mountain, SW Ridge 9/14/13 Goat Island Peak, Full Traverse 9/14/13 Gothic Peak, East Side 9/14/13 North Sister, SW Ridge 9/14/13 Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats 9/14/13 Washington/Ellinor Traverse 9/19/13 Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge 10/5/13 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge 10/6/13 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge 10/6/13 Mt. Bailey, East Ridge

Date Mountain, Route

66

1/1 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/5 1/5 1/5 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/9 1/10 1/10 1/10 1/10 1/10 1/10 1/12 1/12 1/12 1/12 1/13 1/15 1/15 1/15 1/15 1/15 1/15 1/16 1/17 1/17 1/17 1/17 1/17 1/17 1/19 1/19 1/19 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/22 1/22 1/22 1/22 1/22 1/22 1/23 1/24 1/24 1/24 1/24 1/24 1/24 1/26 1/26 1/26 1/26

Dog Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Mt. Talbert Forest Park (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Devils Rest via Wahkeena Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Forest Park (Big Stump) Greenleaf Falls Neahkahnie Mountain Pocket Creek Ski Tour Dog Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Clackamas River Trail Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Saddle Mountain Springwater Willamette Trail Ecola (AYM) Dog Mountain Multnomah–Wahkeena Loop Triple Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Chocolate Falls SS Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Clear Lake XC Ski Neahkahnie Mountain White River Canyon SS Bald Butte (AYM)

Date Trip 17 8 8 8 8 8 8 12 4 7 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 7 12 11 11 11 11 11 3 5 4 7 4 13 12 12 13 12 12 12 10 9 10 10 9 10 5 5 9 3 3 5 12 12 12 11 12 11 5 10 9 10 10 9 10 3 4 17 4

Miles Att

Zeps, David 8 Braem, David 8 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Searl, Ken 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Craycraft, Rick 7.5 Breunsbach, Rex 5 Reeder, Matt 10 Braem, David 7.5 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Searl, Ken 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Solomon, Larry 7.2 Brown, Amy 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Searl, Ken 6.2 Smith, Robert 4.5 Lawson, Terry 6.2 Breunsbach, Rex 9 Whittington, Joe 5 Lincoln, Wayne Nair, Brett 7 Braem, David 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 4.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 5.5 Breunsbach, Rex 5 Braem, David 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 4.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 5.5 Dodson, Tom 7.2 Meissner, Dick 6 Reeder, Matt 8.6 Sears, Cloudy 6.3 Craycraft, Rick 5.4 Breivogel, Bob 6 Braem, David 7.5 Cone, Terry 4 Guyot, Tom 6 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 5.5 Breunsbach, Rex 8 Braem, David 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 4.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 5.5 Peltz, Nicole 6 Bishop, Gary 8.6 Whittington, Joe 4 Sattgast, Caleb 8

Leader 1/27 1/29 1/29 1/29 1/29 1/29 1/29 1/30 1/31 1/31 1/31 1/31 1/31 1/31 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/3 2/3 2/3 2/5 2/5 2/5 2/5 2/5 2/5 2/5 2/6 2/7 2/7 2/7 2/7 2/7 2/7 2/9 2/9 2/9 2/10 2/10 2/10 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/13 2/14 2/14 2/14 2/14 2/14 2/14 2/16 2/16 2/16 2/16 2/17 2/17 2/19 2/19 2/19 2/19 2/19 2/20

Tillamook Head Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Devils Rest via Wahkeena Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Tilly Jane SS Trillium Lake SS Coyote Wall–Labyrinth (AYM) Coyote Wall Mt. Defiance Mt. Tabor Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Franklin Ridge Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Boy Scout Ridge SS Multnomah Medley Klickitat River Trail (AYM) Eagle Creek (Tunnel Falls) Nick Eaton Ridge Palmateer Point–Devils 1/2 Acre SS Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Northern Gales Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Bunker Hill Eagle Creek (7.5–Mile Camp) White River SS Tillamook Head (AYM) Herman Creek (Slide Creek Falls) Wildwood–Marquam Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Nick Eaton–Gorton Creek Loop

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips 8.5 7 6 5.5 6 6.2 7 8 7.5 5.5 6 5.8 6 7 6 5.2 7 8.6 12 6 7.5 5 6 6 6 7 5.5 10.1 7.5 5 6 5.5 6 7 4 12.5 6 12 8 5 7.5 5 6 5.5 6 7 6.8 7.5 6 5.5 6 7 5 6 14 4 8 10.8 7.5 7.5 6 5.5 7 4.5 8

3 11 11 11 11 10 11 4 10 10 10 10 9 10 12 9 5 9 6 5 9 10 9 9 9 9 10 5 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 7 9 6 3 5 11 12 11 12 12 11 7 7 7 7 7 7 8 7 3 7 4 6 4 15 15 15 15 16 6

Miles Att

Breivogel, Bob Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Searl, Ken Sherbeck, Terry Evans, Kate Braem, David Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Niemeyer, Laura Searl, Ken Sherbeck, Terry Rubino, Suzi Koch, Susan Reeder, Matt Breunsbach, Rex Zeps, David Lawson, Terry Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Searl, Ken Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Brown, Amy Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Hanson, Marty Smith, Sheri Alice Copeland, Beth Justice, Greg Craycraft, Rick Sherbeck, Terry Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Krug, Regis Nelson, David Kallmann, Paul Sears, Cloudy Lawson, Terry Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Bourdin, Sherry

Leader 2/21 2/21 2/21 2/21 2/21 2/22 2/23 2/24 2/24 2/26 2/26 2/26 2/26 2/26 2/26 2/27 2/28 2/28 2/28 2/28 2/28 2/28 2/28 3/2 3/2 3/2 3/2 3/2 3/3 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/6 3/7 3/7 3/7 3/7 3/7 3/7 3/9 3/9 3/9 3/10 3/11 3/12 3/12 3/12 3/12 3/12 3/12 3/13 3/14 3/14 3/14 3/14 3/14 3/14 3/16 3/16 3/16 3/16

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Cross–Over Falls) Angels Rest Eagle Creek (4.5–Mile Bridge) Larch Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cedar Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Forest Park Nehalem Spit University Falls White River SS Nesika Lodge Overnight (AYM) Hamilton Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Forest Park Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Elowah & Upper McCord Falls Greenleaf Overlook Lacamas Lake Elk Mountain Nick Eaton–Gorton Creek Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Coyote Wall Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Franklin Ridge Kings Mountain Triple Falls Twin Lakes SS

Date Trip 7.5 5 6 5.5 7 12.4 4.6 8 13.8 7.5 5 6 5.5 6 7 8 7.5 5 6 5.5 6 6 7 5 8 8.4 4 10 8 7.5 5 6 6 6 7.5 5.5 7.1 7.5 5 6 5.5 6 7 3 8.2 7 8.5 8 7.5 5 5.5 6 6 7 7.5 5.5 5 6 5.5 6 7 12.2 5 4.3 5.6

10 11 10 10 10 4 4 8 7 11 12 11 11 11 11 12 6 7 6 6 6 6 6 9 3 12 4 13 11 7 8 7 8 8 7 8 3 10 11 10 10 10 10 4 21 4 8 4 10 11 11 10 10 10 7 13 13 13 13 13 13 8 5 3 5

Miles Att

Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Sherbeck, Terry Dewsnap, Bill Zeps, David Smith, Dan Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Niemeyer, Laura Sherbeck, Terry Hiland, Kurt Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Searl, Ken Sherbeck, Terry Sanzone, Mark Whittington, Joe Breunsbach, Rex Koch, Susan Kallmann, Paul Smith, Sheri Alice Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Searl, Ken Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Solomon, Larry Brown, Amy Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Huber, Flora Breunsbach, Rex Selby, Jim Smith, Sheri Alice Sears, Cloudy Braem, David Cone, Terry Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Niemeyer, Laura Sherbeck, Terry Breivogel, Bob Breivogel, Bob Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Searl, Ken Sherbeck, Terry Craycraft, Rick Dodson, Tom Lawson, Terry Nelson, David

Leader

Legend: Att=Attendance SS=Snowshoe TT=Trail Tending RTM=Round-the-Mountain O=Outing AYM: Adventurous Young Mazamas

67

3/17 3/17 3/17 3/19 3/19 3/19 3/19 3/19 3/19 3/20 3/21 3/21 3/21 3/21 3/21 3/21 3/21 3/23 3/24 3/24 3/26 3/26 3/26 3/26 3/26 3/26 3/27 3/27 3/27 3/28 3/28 3/28 3/28 3/28 3/28 3/29 3/30 3/30 3/31 3/31 3/9 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/3 4/3 4/4 4/4 4/4 4/4 4/4 4/4 4/6 4/7 4/7 4/9 4/9 4/9 4/9 4/9 4/9 4/10 4/10

Aldrich Butte–Cedar Falls Catherine Creek–East Table Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Wind Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hagg Lake Coyote Wall Franklin Ridge Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Bald Butte Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Eagle Creek to High Bridge (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Trillium Lake Moonlight SS Dry Creek Falls Wildwood Trail Lyle Cherry Orchard Rudolph Spur Deschutes River Trail (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mitchell Point/Wygant Peak Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Catherine Creek/Coyote Wall Catherine Creek Dog Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Silver Star Mountain

Date Trip 9 8 7 7 8 8 8 8 7 5 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 5 10 7 10 11 11 11 10 11 7 4 4 11 11 11 11 11 12 8 15 8 17 6 4 13 14 14 13 13 13 10 6 8 8 8 8 8 8 6 4 3 13 13 12 13 13 13 3 11

Miles Att

Solomon, Larry 6 Getgen, Richard 7 Breivogel, Bob 9 Braem, David 7.5 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Breunsbach, Rex 3.5 Cone, Terry 5.5 Fellers, Whit 8 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Searl, Ken 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 5.5 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Breunsbach, Rex 14.8 Breivogel, Bob 8 Foster, Dyanne 10.1 Braem, David 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 5.5 Avery, Jay 8.4 Linza, Meg 5 Reeder, Matt 6.6 Braem, David 7.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Searl, Ken 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 5.5 Nelson, David 5.2 Selby, Jim 4.2 Breunsbach, Rex 15 Breunsbach, Rex 7 Fowler, Mark 11 Reeder, Matt 11 Braem, David 7.5 Cone, Terry 5 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Breunsbach, Rex 8.5 Linza, Meg 5 Braem, David 7.5 Cone, Terry 5 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Searl, Ken 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Sheri Alice 12.3 Smith, Dan 7 Nelson, David 7.2 Braem, David 7.5 Cone, Terry 5.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Linza, Meg 5 Breunsbach, Rex 7.5

Leader

Official Mazama Trail Trips 4/11 Portland Street Ramble 4/11 Portland Street Ramble 4/11 Portland Street Ramble 4/11 Portland Street Ramble 4/11 Portland Street Ramble 4/11 Portland Street Ramble 4/13 Elk–Kings Traverse 4/13 Munra Point 4/13 Wahclella, McCord, Elowah ... Falls 4/13 Mitchell Lyle Cherry (AYM) 4/14 Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp) 4/14 Tom McCall Point 4/16 Portland Street Ramble 4/16 Portland Street Ramble 4/16 Portland Street Ramble 4/16 Portland Street Ramble 4/16 Portland Street Ramble 4/16 Portland Street Ramble 4/16 Portland Street Ramble 4/17 Mt. Defiance 4/17 Stair Stomp Ramble 4/17 Devils Rest via Wahkeena 4/18 Portland Street Ramble 4/18 Portland Street Ramble 4/18 Portland Street Ramble 4/18 Portland Street Ramble 4/18 Portland Street Ramble 4/18 Portland Street Ramble 4/20 Banks–Vernonia Linear Trail 4/20 Eagle Creek (Cross–Over Falls) 4/21 Hardy Ridge 4/21 Larch Mountain 4/21 Table Rock–Rooster Rock 4/23 Portland Street Ramble 4/23 Portland Street Ramble 4/23 Portland Street Ramble 4/23 Portland Street Ramble 4/23 Portland Street Ramble 4/23 Portland Street Ramble 4/23 Ruckel Ridge 4/24 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble 4/24 Multnomah–Angels Rest 4/25 Portland Street Ramble 4/25 Portland Street Ramble 4/25 Portland Street Ramble 4/25 Portland Street Ramble 4/25 Portland Street Ramble 4/25 Portland Street Ramble 4/27 Dalles Mountain Ranch 4/27 Falls Creek Falls 4/27 Larch Mountain 4/27 Pup Creek Falls 4/27 Wahkeena–Multnomah Loop 4/27 Neahkahnie Mountain (AYM) 4/28 Memaloose Hills 4/28 Nesmith Point 4/30 Portland Street Ramble 4/30 Portland Street Ramble 4/30 Portland Street Ramble 4/30 Portland Street Ramble 4/30 Portland Street Ramble 4/30 Portland Street Ramble 4/30 Portland Street Ramble 4/26-29 Rogue River Backpack 5/1 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble 5/1 Triple Falls

Date Trip 11 10 10 11 10 10 5 3 8 5 6 7 12 12 13 12 12 12 12 6 7 5 11 11 11 11 10 11 4 5 5 5 7 10 10 11 11 11 11 10 5 3 14 13 14 14 14 14 15 7 8 8 4 12 4 11 11 12 12 12 12 12 11 10 4 6

Miles Att

Braem, David 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 McCobb, Jim 5 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Gregory, Leora 11.2 Smith, Sheri Alice 5.6 Breunsbach, Rex 9 Reeder, Matt 7.6 Foster, Dyanne 13.8 Breivogel, Bob 6 Cone, Terry 5 Fellers, Whit 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 5.5 Avery, Jay 11.8 Hendrix, Sojo 6 Evans, Kate 7.2 Cone, Terry 5 Fellers, Whit 7.5 Findley, Vern 6.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Bourdin, Sherry 18 Nelson, David 12.6 Solomon, Larry 8.4 Foster, Dyanne 14 Breunsbach, Rex 10 Cone, Terry 5 Fellers, Whit 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Fowler, Mark 9.6 Linza, Meg 6 Selby, Jim 7 Cone, Terry 5 Fellers, Whit 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Breivogel, Bob 8 Huber, Flora 6.3 Dodson, Tom 13.8 Krug, Regis 8 Koch, Susan 5.2 Reeder, Matt 7.2 Getgen, Richard 6 Hendrix, Sojo 10 Braem, David 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 McCobb, Jim 5 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Davidson, Tom 34.8 Linza, Meg 6 Meissner, Dick 6

Leader 5/2 5/2 5/2 5/2 5/2 5/4 5/4 5/4 5/4 5/4 5/5 5/5 5/6 5/7 5/7 5/7 5/7 5/7 5/7 5/7 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/10 5/11 5/11 5/11 5/11 5/11 5/11 5/11 5/12 5/14 5/14 5/14 5/14 5/14 5/14 5/14 5/15 5/15 5/16 5/16 5/16 5/16 5/16 5/16 5/18 5/18 5/19 5/19 5/21 5/21 5/21 5/21 5/21 5/22 5/22 5/23

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Cross–Over Falls) Three–Corner Rock Wildwood–in–a–Day Utah: Coyote Gulch (O) Wahkeena–Devils Rest (AYM) Dog Mountain Utah: Coyote Gulch (O) Utah: Hole–in–the–Rock (O) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Utah: Escalante (O) Dublin Lake Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Utah: Kanab’s Paria (O) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Utah: Zion’s Overlook (O) Utah: Zion’s Observation Pt (O) Angels Rest–Wahkeena–Devils Rest Lewis River Falls Lucia Falls Pup Creek Falls Utah: Zion’s Angels Landing (O) Utah: Zion’s Subway (O) Alder Flat/Riverside Trail (AYM) Dog Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. St. Helens Harry’s Ridge Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dog Mountain Indian Point (AYM) Aldrich Butte–Table Mountain Round Lake Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dry Creek Falls Sedum Ridge–Mowich Butte Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip 13 13 14 13 14 8 5 4 12 7 7 12 12 11 12 12 12 12 11 12 6 11 12 12 11 11 11 11 12 12 12 7 3 3 8 6 6 8 4 12 13 13 13 13 13 12 11 5 8 8 8 8 8 8 6 5 12 13 5 6 5 5 6 3 8 8

Miles Att

Braem, David 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 McCobb, Jim 4 Smith, Dan 12.6 Huber, Flora 8.5 Breunsbach, Rex 30 Davidson, Tom 6 Dechant, Keith 9 Smith, Sheri Alice 7.2 Davidson, Tom 4 Davidson, Tom 1.5 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6.5 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Van Rossen, Daniel 6.5 Davidson, Tom 2 Breunsbach, Rex 13.6 Linza, Meg 6 Davidson, Tom 5 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 9.5 Smith, Robert 5 Davidson, Tom 1 Davidson, Tom 8 Dodson, Tom 10.5 Meyer, Kent 5.5 Selby, Jim 5.6 Breunsbach, Rex 8.5 Davidson, Tom 7.4 Breivogel, Bob 7.3 Reeder, Matt 6.6 Auerbach, Mitch 7.9 Braem, David 8 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 McCobb, Jim 4 Niemeyer, Laura 6.5 Smith, Robert 5 Van Rossen, Daniel 6.5 Breunsbach, Rex 8 Linza, Meg 6 Fellers, Whit 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 McCobb, Jim 4 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 6.5 Kingsbury, Stephen 7.2 Adams, Jerry 8.5 Hendrix, Sojo 12 Selby, Jim 4.6 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Smith, Robert 5 Brickey, Sue 5.4 Breunsbach, Rex 11.3 Cone, Terry 5

Leader

68

5/23 Portland Street Ramble 5/23 Portland Street Ramble 5/23 Portland Street Ramble 5/23 Portland Street Ramble 5/25 Deschutes River Trail 5/25 Tarbell Trail–Hidden Falls 5/25 Wind Mountain & Dog Mountain 5/26 Table Rock–Rooster Rock 5/26 Triple Falls 5/28 Portland Street Ramble 5/28 Portland Street Ramble 5/28 Portland Street Ramble 5/28 Portland Street Ramble 5/28 Portland Street Ramble 5/28 Portland Street Ramble 5/29 Mt. Defiance 5/29 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble 5/30 Portland Street Ramble 5/30 Portland Street Ramble 5/30 Portland Street Ramble 5/30 Portland Street Ramble 5/30 Portland Street Ramble 5/30 Portland Street Ramble 5/26-27 John Day Fossil Beds (AYM) 6/1 Grassy Knoll 6/1 Hamilton Mountain 6/1 Larch Mountain 6/1 Hardy Ridge (AYM) 6/2 Dog Mountain 6/4 Portland Street Ramble 6/4 Portland Street Ramble 6/4 Portland Street Ramble 6/4 Portland Street Ramble 6/4 Portland Street Ramble 6/4 Portland Street Ramble 6/5 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble 6/5 Wilson River Trails 6/6 Portland Street Ramble 6/6 Portland Street Ramble 6/6 Portland Street Ramble 6/6 Portland Street Ramble 6/6 Portland Street Ramble 6/6 Portland Street Ramble 6/8 Burnt Lake–East Zig Zag Mtn. 6/8 Eagle Creek (High Bridge) 6/8 Silver Star Mountain via Starway 6/9 Bayocean Spit 6/9 Hamilton–Hardy Ridge 6/9 Wahkeena–Angels Rest 6/11 Portland Street Ramble 6/11 Portland Street Ramble 6/11 Portland Street Ramble 6/11 Portland Street Ramble 6/11 Portland Street Ramble 6/11 Portland Street Ramble 6/12 Salmon Butte 6/13 Portland Street Ramble 6/13 Portland Street Ramble 6/13 Portland Street Ramble 6/13 Portland Street Ramble 6/13 Portland Street Ramble 6/13 Portland Street Ramble 6/15 Elevator Shaft 6/15 Hunchback Mountain 6/15 King Mountain Trail Tender 6/16 Angels Rest

Date Trip 8 8 8 8 6 6 4 9 4 13 13 13 13 13 13 6 7 11 11 11 11 12 11 5 10 6 9 6 8 11 11 11 11 10 11 8 5 8 9 9 8 9 9 5 7 8 4 8 6 10 10 11 10 11 11 9 8 8 9 9 8 9 10 10 12 8

Miles Att

Fellers, Whit 7 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Bourdin, Sherry 8 Breunsbach, Rex 10 Solomon, Larry 9.9 Gerald, Paul 7.2 Lawson, Terry 6.8 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 4.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Avery, Jay 12 Linza, Meg 5 Braem, David 7.5 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Miller, Sarah 10 Breunsbach, Rex 4.4 Auerbach, Mitch 7.5 Evans, Kate 13.8 Kallmann, Paul Hendrix, Sojo 7.2 Braem, David 8 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Linza, Meg 5 Breunsbach, Rex 13.8 Braem, David 8 Hanson, Marty 4.5 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 5.5 Van Rossen, Daniel 6.5 Krug, Regis 9.6 Selby, Jim 6 Bishop, Gary 9.2 Getgen, Richard 8 Solomon, Larry 14 Lawson, Terry 6.4 Braem, David 8 Guyot, Tom 6.5 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 4.5 Van Rossen, Daniel 7 Lawson, Terry 11.2 Braem, David 8 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 5.5 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 4.5 Breunsbach, Rex 9 Nelson, David 9 Pope, Richard 2 Selby, Jim 4.6

Leader

Official Mazama Trail Trips 6/16 6/16 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/19 6/19 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/22 6/22 6/22 6/22 6/23 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/26 6/26 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/29 6/29 6/29 6/29 6/29 6/30 7/2 7/2 7/2 7/2 7/2 7/2 7/3 7/3 7/4 7/4 7/6 7/6 7/6 7/7 7/7 7/7 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/9

Cook–Augspurger Traverse Salmon River Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Nesmith Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cape Horn Hart Cove Lava Canyon North Lake Lower Siouxon Creek (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Defiance Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Devils Peak Lookout Elk Meadows Munra Point–Nesmith Point Wildcat Mountain Rooster Rock (AYM) Twin Lakes Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Ape Canyon–Plains of Abraham Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Horseshoe Ridge Horseshoe Ridge (AYM) Hamilton Mountain Lookout Mountain Ape Canyon (AYM) Herman Creek Pinnacles Larch Mountain Mary’s Peak Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip 4 12 11 11 12 11 12 11 11 9 7 11 10 10 11 10 10 12 7 3 11 5 11 10 11 11 11 10 11 7 11 10 11 10 10 10 10 10 6 6 4 12 9 7 9 10 10 10 10 10 9 11 10 5 13 8 6 6 4 7 10 11 11 11 11 11

Miles Att

Hiland, Kurt 13 Edlund, Ursula 7.2 Braem, David 8 Breivogel, Bob 9 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Linza, Meg 5 Breunsbach, Rex 9.8 Cone, Terry 5 Fellers, Whit 8 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Selby, Jim 7 Breunsbach, Rex 12 Huber, Flora 5.3 Bourdin, Sherry 13.2 Copeland, Beth 8 Cone, Terry 5 Fellers, Whit 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Avery, Jay 12 Linza, Meg 5 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Johnson, Megan 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Nelson, David 8.2 Meissner, Dick 6.8 Smith, Sheri Alice 17 Breunsbach, Rex 10.2 Reeder, Matt 11.5 Getgen, Richard 9.1 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 5.5 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Breunsbach, Rex 10.6 Linza, Meg 5 Smith, Sheri Alice 11 Copeland, Beth 13 Selby, Jim 7.6 Smith, Sheri Alice 10.4 Copeland, Beth 11 Edlund, Ursula 6 Hiland, Kurt 13.8 Breunsbach, Rex 8 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 4.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 6

Leader 7/9 7/10 7/10 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/13 7/13 7/14 7/14 7/16 7/16 7/16 7/16 7/16 7/17 7/17 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/24 7/24 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/27 7/27 7/27 7/27 7/28 7/28 7/29 7/29 7/30 7/30 7/30 7/30 7/30 7/30

Portland Street Ramble Lava Canyon–Smith Creek Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Angels Rest Yocum Ridge Dry Creek Falls Nestor Peak Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Clackamas River Trail Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Badger Cr. Chk: Fret Cr–Flag Pt Badger Cr. Chk: Fret Cr–Lookout Mtn Indian Mountain Lookout Mountain Salmon River Cape Horn (AYM) Badger Cr. Chk: Flag Pt–Fret Cr Badger Cr. Chk: Flag Pt–Hwy 35 Hunchback Mountain Loowit Falls–Plains of Abraham Ramona Falls King Mountain (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Silver Star Mtn via Bluff Mtn Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Boulder Ridge Larch Mountain Crater Wildcat Mountain (Douglas Trail) Paradise Park (AYM) Burnt Lake Wildcat Mountain (AYM) Glacier: Garden Wall (O) Glacier: Garden Wall (O) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Glacier: Ptarmigan Tunnel (O)

Date Trip 11 11 7 11 12 11 12 12 3 7 5 6 10 10 11 11 10 6 14 10 9 10 10 10 9 10 6 5 10 12 4 8 5 6 6 3 5 9 12 11 11 12 12 12 6 4 8 7 8 7 8 8 6 17 10 11 4 12 14 14 16 16 16 16 16 13

Miles Att

Sherbeck, Terry 7 Breunsbach, Rex 6.6 Linza, Meg 5 Brown, Amy 6.5 Cone, Terry 4.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Johnson, Megan 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Lawson, Terry 4.6 Smith, Dan 17.4 Selby, Jim 7 Breunsbach, Rex 6 Braem, David 8 Guyot, Tom 6 Johnson, Megan 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Breunsbach, Rex 6 Linza, Meg 6 Cone, Terry 4.5 Fellers, Whit 8 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Johnson, Megan 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Eskridge, Rick 5 Nelson, David 7.3 Marlin, Kelly 9 Gerald, Paul 10.4 Goodwin, Billie 5 Copeland, Beth 7 Nelson, David 4 Eskridge, Rick 9.2 Bourdin, Sherry 9 Breunsbach, Rex 11.7 Lawson, Terry 7.3 Karitis, Ashley 5 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Linza, Meg 5 Rubino, Suzi 13.2 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Krug, Regis 10.5 Selby, Jim 7 Huber, Flora 6 Irelan, Kit 12.1 Lawson, Terry 7.4 Devlin, Erin 10.2 Getgen, Richard 7 Smith, Robert 7 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Getgen, Richard 10.8

Leader

Legend: Att=Attendance BP=Backpack SS=Snowshoe TT=Trail Tending RTM=Round-the-Mountain O=Outing AYM: Adventurous Young Mazamas

69

14 7 16 15 9 4 9 8 9 8 9 15 7 5 8 12 11 4 9 10 10 10 10 10 12 8 8 8 9 8 9 8 9 7 8 6 7 5 9 5 4 10 11 11 11 11 11 12 4 5 15 16 15 15 15 4 4 7 9 6 4 12 13 13 13 13

Miles Att

Smith, Robert 10 Hendrix, Sojo 6 Breunsbach, Rex 11 Getgen, Richard 11.4 Smith, Robert 6 Breunsbach, Rex 13 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Getgen, Richard 9 Smith, Robert 11.4 Koch, Susan 9 Selby, Jim 5.7 Zigler, Marilyn 10 Smith, Dan 8.5 Davidson, Tom 10 Braem, David 8.3 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Gerald, Paul 10.2 Braem, David 5 Pope, Richard 8 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 7 Niemeyer, Laura 6.5 Davidson, Tom 30 Pope, Richard 6 Sheldon, Ray 5 Smith, Sheri Alice 12 Nelson, David 16.3 Getgen, Richard 8.5 Lawson, Terry 7.2 Bourdin, Sherry 17.4 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Breunsbach, Rex 7.2 Linza, Meg 5 Reeder, Matt 3.1 Braem, David 8 Cone, Terry 5 Johnson, Megan 5.5 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Lincoln, Wayne 11 Breunsbach, Rex 14 Copeland, Beth 8 Hiland, Kurt 12 Breunsbach, Rex 8 Karitis, Ashley 10 Brown, Amy 8 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Johnson, Megan 5.5

Leader

7/30 Glacier: Iceberg Lake (O) 7/31 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble 7/31 Sheep Canyon Loop 7/31 Glacier: Grinnell Glacier (O) 7/31 Glacier: Hidden Lake (O) 7/27-28 Mazama Trail Backpack 8/1 Portland Street Ramble 8/1 Portland Street Ramble 8/1 Portland Street Ramble 8/1 Portland Street Ramble 8/1 Portland Street Ramble 8/1 Glacier: Two Medicine Lk. (O) 8/1 Glacier: Grinnell Glacier (O) 8/3 Ape Canyon 8/3 Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge 8/3 Salmon River 8/4 Devils Rest via Wahkeena 8/6 Jefferson Park Backpack 8/6 Portland Street Ramble 8/6 Portland Street Ramble 8/6 Portland Street Ramble 8/6 Portland Street Ramble 8/6 Portland Street Ramble 8/6 Portland Street Ramble 8/7 McNeil Point 8/7 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble 8/8 Mazama Trail Trail Tending 8/8 Portland Street Ramble 8/8 Portland Street Ramble 8/8 Portland Street Ramble 8/8 Portland Street Ramble 8/8 Portland Street Ramble 8/8 Portland Street Ramble 8/8 Enchanted Valley Backpack 8/9 Mazama Trail Trail Tending 8/10 Mazama Trail Trail Tending 8/10 Mt. Margaret 8/10 Paradise Park via Hwy. 26 8/11 Cairn Basin 8/11 Salmon River 8/12 Yocum Ridge 8/13 Portland Street Ramble 8/13 Portland Street Ramble 8/13 Portland Street Ramble 8/13 Portland Street Ramble 8/13 Portland Street Ramble 8/13 Portland Street Ramble 8/14 Fish Creek Mountain 8/14 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble 8/14 Dwnt. Portland Street Ramble (AYM) 8/15 Portland Street Ramble 8/15 Portland Street Ramble 8/15 Portland Street Ramble 8/15 Portland Street Ramble 8/15 Portland Street Ramble 8/17 Ape Canyon 8/17 Table Mountain 8/17 Bull of the Woods–Pansy Lk. (AYM) 8/18 Gnarl Ridge 8/18 Mt. Hebo 8/18 Gnarl Ridge (AYM) 8/20 Portland Street Ramble 8/20 Portland Street Ramble 8/20 Portland Street Ramble 8/20 Portland Street Ramble 8/20 Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips 8/20 8/20 8/21 8/21 8/21 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/24 8/24 8/24 8/24 8/24 8/24 8/25 8/25 8/25 8/25 8/25 8/26 8/26 8/26 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/29 8/29 8/29 8/29 8/29 8/29 8/29 8/29 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31 8/31

Leader 13 13 5 9 3 8 9 9 8 9 9 3 4 9 7 8 5 4 3 5 7 6 20 14 7 11 10 11 11 11 11 2 10 12 17 6 3 8 3 4 6 12 11 11 11 10 10 6 3 14 5 4 7 6 3 6 10 4 3 5 5 5 4 5 5 5

Miles Att

Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert 5 Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg 5 Tom–Dick Mountain Selby, Jim 6.8 Elk Rock Island Ramble (AYM) Miller, Sarah 3 Portland Street Ramble Braem, David 7 Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 6 Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty 4.5 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert 5.5 Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Lookout Mountain Hendrix, Sojo 10.4 Paradise Park via Timberline Lodge Smith, Sheri Alice 10.1 Tillamook Burn Huber, Flora 6.4 Yosemite: Glen Aulin &Yosemite Falls (O) Breunsbach, Rex 13 Yosemite: Cathedral Lakes (O) Dewsnap, Bill 10 Sheep Canyon Loop (AYM) Copeland, Beth 12.5 McNeil Point Hendrix, Sojo 9 Mitchell Point Kingsbury, Stephen 2.6 Table Mountain Evans, Kate 10 Yosemite: May Lake & Mt. Hoffman (O) Breunsbach, Rex 6 Yosemite: May Lake & Mt. Hoffman (O) Dewsnap, Bill 6 Redwoods: Boy Scout Tree (O) Hanson, Marty 6 Redwoods: Myrtle Creek/Hiouchi Tr. (O) Smith, Robert 6.2 Yosemite: North Dome/Indian Pt (O) Sears, Cloudy 10 Portland Street Ramble Cone, Terry 5 Portland Street Ramble Fellers, Whit 7 Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 6 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 Portland Street Ramble Niemeyer, Laura 5.8 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 Redwoods: Hidden Beach (O) Hanson, Marty 8 Redwoods: Hidden Beach/Klamath Ov. (O) Johnson, Megan 8 Redwoods: Hobbs Wall & Trestle Loop (O) Smith, Robert 6 Redwoods: Miners Ridge–Fern Canyon (O) Smith, Robert 10.9 Yosemite: Yenaya Lake (O) Dewsnap, Bill 5.5 Yosemite: Elizabeth Lake (O) Foster, Dyanne 10 Cooper Spur Gerald, Paul 8.5 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg 5 Yosemite: Clouds Rest (O) Breunsbach, Rex 8.7 Yosemite: Clouds Rest (O) Dewsnap, Bill 6 Portland Street Ramble Cone, Terry 5 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 Portland Street Ramble Niemeyer, Laura 5.5 Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel 5.5 Redwoods: Lady Bird Johnson ... (O) Hanson, Marty 4 Redwoods: Damnation Creek (O) Smith, Robert 4.4 Yosemite: Lit. Yosemite–Half Dome (O) Dewsnap, Bill 8 Yosemite: Lit. Yosemite–Half Dome (O) Breunsbach, Rex 8 Redwoods: Damnation Creek (O) Hanson, Marty 4 Redwoods: Boy Scout Tree/Fern Falls (O) Smith, Robert 5.8 Yosemite: Half Dome (O) Breunsbach, Rex 12 Yosemite: Ltl. Yosemite Vly.–Yos.Vly. (O) Dewsnap, Bill 6.1 Henline Mountain & Henline Falls Krug, Regis 8 Yosemite: Mariposa Grove (O) Breunsbach, Rex 1 Wallowa Lake Carcamp: Ice Lake (AYM) Irelan, Kit 15.2 Wallowa Lake Carcamp: Ice Lake (AYM) Reeder, Matt 15.2 Timberline–Ramona Falls (RTM) Evans, Kate 14 Timberline–Ramona Falls (RTM) Peltz, Nicole 14 Elk Cove–Top Spur (RTM) Boeger, Chris 14 Top Spur–Elk Cove (RTM) Adams, Jerry 14 Elk Cove–Top Spur (RTM) Huston, Aaron 14 Mt. Hood Mdws–Tilly Jane (RTM) Braem, David 14 Mt. Hood Mdws–Tilly Jane (RTM) Van Rossen, Daniel 14 Ramona Falls–Timberline (RTM) Bourdin, Sherry 14 Ramona Falls–Timberline (RTM) Smith, Skip 14

Date Trip 8/31 8/31 8/31 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/4 9/4 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/10 9/10 9/10 9/10 9/10 9/10 9/10 9/11 9/12 9/12 9/12 9/12 9/12

Leader 3 4 5 4 4 3 4 4 3 4 3 4 5 4 6 5 4 4 8 4 4 5 4 3 4 2 5 5 4 4 3 4 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 10 10 6 6 5 5 5 5 10 4 3 4 3 10 7 7 7 7 8 7 7 5 9 9 9 9 8

Miles Att

Tilly Jane–Mt. Hood Mdws (RTM) Harlson, Shane 14 Tilly Jane–Mt. Hood Mdws (RTM) Sattgast, Caleb 14 Top Spur–Elk Cove (RTM) Sherbeck, Terry 14 Wahclella & Elowah Falls Lawson, Terry 4.8 Wallowa Lake: Hurricane Creek (AYM) Langenwalter, Karl 6 Wallowa Lake: Hurricane Creek (AYM) Irelan, Kit 6 Ramona Falls–Timberline (RTM) Adams, Jerry 14 Mt. Hood Mdws–Tilly Jane (RTM) Evans, Kate 14 Mt. Hood Mdws–Tilly Jane (RTM) Peltz, Nicole 14 Ramona Falls–Timberline (RTM) Sherbeck, Terry 14 Elk Cove–Top Spur (RTM) Harlson, Shane 14 Elk Cove–Top Spur (RTM) Sattgast, Caleb 14 Tilly Jane–Mt. Hood Mdws (RTM) Bourdin, Sherry 14 Tilly Jane–Mt. Hood Mdws (RTM) Smith,Skip 14 Timberline–Ramona Falls (RTM) Boeger, Chris 14 Timberline–Ramona Falls (RTM) Huston, Aaron 14 Top Spur–Elk Cove (RTM) Braem, David 14 Top Spur–Elk Cove (RTM) Van Rossen, Daniel 14 Yosemite: Panorama Trail (O) Dewsnap, Bill 9.2 Yosemite: Taft Point & Sentinel Pt. (O) Foster, Dyanne 13.8 Mt. Hood Mdws–Tilly Jane (RTM) Adams, Jerry 14 Tilly Jane–Mt. Hood Mdws (RTM) Boeger, Chris 14 Timberline–Ramona Falls (RTM) Braem, David 14 Top Spur–Elk Cove (RTM) Evans, Kate 14 Tilly Jane–Mt. Hood Mdws (RTM) Huston, Aaron 14 Top Spur–Elk Cove (RTM) Peltz, Nicole 14 Mt. Hood Mdws–Tilly Jane (RTM) Sherbeck, Terry 14 Timberline–Ramon Falls (RTM) Van Rossen, Daniel 14 Elk Cove–Top Spur (RTM) Bourdin, Sherry 14 Elk Cove–Top Spur (RTM) Smith, Skip 14 Ramona Falls–Timberline (RTM) Harlson, Shane 14 Ramona Falls–Timberline (RTM) Sattgast, Caleb 14 Portland Street Ramble Brown, Amy 7 Portland Street Ramble Cone, Terry 5 Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 6 Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty 5.5 Portland Street Ramble Johnson, Megan 5.5 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 Portland Street Ramble Niemeyer, Laura 6 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 Yosemite: Half Dome via Mist Trail (O) Breunsbach, Rex 5 Burnt Lake–East Zig Zag Mountain Lawson, Terry 9.6 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg 5 Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 6 Portland Street Ramble Johnson, Megan 6 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 Yosemite: El Capitan & Up. Yos. Falls (O) Dewsnap, Bill 16 Barrett Spur via Vista Ridge Hiland, Kurt 10 Siouxon Creek Lawson, Terry 7.8 Tom–Dick Mountain Selby, Jim 6.8 Herman Creek Bridge–PCT Lawson, Terry 6.1 Hunchback Mountain Nelson, David 9 Serene Lake Loop Gerald, Paul 12 Portland Street Ramble Brown, Amy 7 Portland Street Ramble Cone, Terry 5 Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 6 Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty 5 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 Portland Street Ramble Niemeyer, Laura 6 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 Horsetail Ridge Breunsbach, Rex 8 Portland Street Ramble Cone, Terry 5 Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 6 Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty 5 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 Portland Street Ramble Niemeyer, Laura 6

Date Trip

70

9 10 4 7 6 10 11 10 10 10 10 10 6 7 12 11 12 11 11 9 3 5 9 10 9 10 9 9 4 8 10 11 10 11 10 11 3 7 12 12 12 12 12 11 7 3 11 11 11 12 11 4 9 4 7 10 3 11 11 10 11 10 10 10 12 8

Miles Att

Sherbeck, Terry 7 Selby, Jim 7 Breunsbach, Rex 4.4 Zigler, Marilyn 12.6 Dodson, Tom 10 Cone, Terry 5 Fellers, Whit 8 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Selby, Jim 9 Linza, Meg 5 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Hiland, Kurt 8 Bishop, Gary 12.2 Evans, Kate 7.2 Braem, David 7.5 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Linza, Meg 5 Breunsbach, Rex 10 Braem, David 7.5 Cone, Terry 5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Selby, Jim 5 Davidson, Tom 43 Fellers, Whit 7 Hanson, Marty 4 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Linza, Meg 5 Solomon, Larry 11 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Niemeyer, Laura 5.5 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Smith, Robert 5 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Nair, Brett 7.5 Breunsbach, Rex 14.6 Goering, Nancy 8.7 Miller, Sarah 6.5 Smith, Sheri Alice 10.6 Dodson, Tom 2.7 Devlin, Erin 7 Cone, Terry 5 Fellers, Whit 7 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Ripps, Lisa 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Breunsbach, Rex 10 Linza, Meg 5

Leader

9/12 Portland Street Ramble 9/14 Cape Horn 9/14 Squaw Mountain–Tumala Mountain 9/15 Eagle Creek (Cross Over Falls) 9/15 Observation Peak 9/17 Portland Street Ramble 9/17 Portland Street Ramble 9/17 Portland Street Ramble 9/17 Portland Street Ramble 9/17 Portland Street Ramble 9/17 Portland Street Ramble 9/17 Portland Street Ramble 9/18 Bells Mountain 9/18 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble 9/19 Portland Street Ramble 9/19 Portland Street Ramble 9/19 Portland Street Ramble 9/19 Portland Street Ramble 9/19 Portland Street Ramble 9/21 Cedar Mountain 9/21 Coldwater Peak 9/22 Devils Rest via Wahkeena 9/24 Portland Street Ramble 9/24 Portland Street Ramble 9/24 Portland Street Ramble 9/24 Portland Street Ramble 9/24 Portland Street Ramble 9/24 Portland Street Ramble 9/25 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble 9/25 Table Rock 9/26 Portland Street Ramble 9/26 Portland Street Ramble 9/26 Portland Street Ramble 9/26 Portland Street Ramble 9/26 Portland Street Ramble 9/26 Portland Street Ramble 9/28 Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge 9/16-19 Wallowas Backpack 10/1 Portland Street Ramble 10/1 Portland Street Ramble 10/1 Portland Street Ramble 10/1 Portland Street Ramble 10/1 Portland Street Ramble 10/1 Portland Street Ramble 10/2 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble 10/2 Whtestone Mountain 10/3 Portland Street Ramble 10/3 Portland Street Ramble 10/3 Portland Street Ramble 10/3 Portland Street Ramble 10/3 Portland Street Ramble 10/5 Hamilton Mountain 10/5 Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp Camp) 10/5 Washington Park 10/5 Upper Salmon River (AYM) 10/6 Rock of Ages 10/6 Wind Mountain 10/6 Table Rock (AYM) 10/8 Portland Street Ramble 10/8 Portland Street Ramble 10/8 Portland Street Ramble 10/8 Portland Street Ramble 10/8 Portland Street Ramble 10/8 Portland Street Ramble 10/9 Lower Salmon River 10/9 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips 10/10 10/10 10/10 10/10 10/10 10/12 10/13 10/13 10/15 10/15 10/15 10/15 10/15 10/15 10/15 10/16 10/17 10/17 10/17 10/17 10/17 10/17 10/17 10/19 10/19 10/19 10/20 10/20 10/20 10/22 10/22 10/22 10/22 10/22 10/22 10/22 10/23 10/24 10/24 10/24 10/24 10/24 10/24 10/24 10/26 10/26 10/26 10/26 10/27 10/27 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/30 10/31 10/31 10/31 10/31 10/31 10/31 10/31 11/2 11/2

7 6 6 7 5 9.5 4.8 10 8 6 6 6 6 7 5 10.6 8 6 6 6 6 7 5 5.5 10 7.2 7.8 10.4 6 7.5 6 5.5 5.5 6.5 7 5 6 7.5 6 5.5 6 5.8 7 5 12.6 5 12 9 16 8.5 7.5 6 5.5 6 7 5 10 7.5 6 4.5 6 7 5.5 2 6.6 7.1

8 8 9 8 9 3 5 6 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 13 7 7 8 7 8 7 8 12 11 3 8 6 13 13 13 13 13 13 13 14 11 9 10 10 10 10 9 10 4 12 6 7 10 7 11 11 12 12 11 12 7 9 9 9 9 9 9 5 3 3

Miles Att

Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Hiland, Kurt Koch, Susan Getgen, Richard Brown, Amy Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Niemeyer, Laura Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Gerald, Paul Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Niemeyer, Laura Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Selby, Jim Gerald, Paul Nelson, David Gerald, Paul Craycraft, Rick Irelan, Kit Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Johnson, Megan Niemeyer, Laura Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Bourdin, Sherry Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Niemeyer, Laura Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Nelson, David Selby, Jim Krug, Regis Reeder, Matt Smith, Sheri Alice Edlund, Ursula Braem, David Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Smith, Sheri Alice Braem, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Copeland, Beth Smith, Dan Solomon, Larry

Leader

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Burnt Lake–East Zig Zag Mountain Angels Rest Cape Lookout Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Ape Canyon–Plains of Abraham Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Historic Vancouver & River Trail Table Mountain Tom–Dick Mountain Clackamas River Trail Lookout Mountain Pittock Mansion Ramble (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Kings Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Cross Over Falls) Round Lake Silver Star Mountain via Starway Trail Little North Santiam River (AYM) Observation Peak Pup Creek Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Nesmith Ridge Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble MMC Ramble (AYM) Eagle Creek (High Bridge) Forest Park (BPA/Firelanes)

Date Trip 11/2 11/2 11/3 11/3 11/5 11/5 11/5 11/5 11/5 11/7 11/7 11/7 11/7 11/7 11/9 11/9 11/9 11/9 11/9 11/10 11/10 11/12 11/12 11/12 11/12 11/12 11/12 11/13 11/14 11/14 11/14 11/14 11/16 11/16 11/17 11/17 11/18 11/19 11/19 11/19 11/19 11/19 11/19 11/20 11/20 11/21 11/21 11/21 11/21 11/21 11/21 11/22 11/23 11/23 11/23 11/24 11/24 11/24 11/26 11/26 11/26 11/26 11/26 11/27 11/28 11/30

4 8 7 3 12 12 12 12 12 7 7 7 7 6 3 5 8 3 3 4 13 13 12 13 13 13 13 17 8 8 9 9 7 6 7 13 5 11 10 10 10 10 10 4 11 8 9 9 9 9 9 6 5 6 4 8 7 7 14 13 14 13 13 4 14 12

Miles Att

Hiland, Kurt 11.5 Copeland, Beth 8 Selby, Jim 7 Lawson, Terry 5.4 Braem, David 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Hanson, Marty 4.5 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 5.5 Braem, David 7.5 Guyot, Tom 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 5.5 Dodson, Tom 14 Bishop, Gary 13.8 Marlin, Kelly 6.8 Devlin. Erin (co leader) 2 Irelan, Kit (co leader) 2 Lawson, Terry 6 Breunsbach, Rex 7.2 Eckel, Carolyn 4.5 Fellers, Whit 7 Johnson, Megan 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Breunsbach, Rex 9 Fellers, Whit 4.5 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Krug, Regis 13.2 Reeder, Matt 8.6 Dewsnap, Bill 7.6 Craycraft, Rick 12.8 Avery, Jay 12 Braem, David 7.5 Eckel, Carolyn 4.5 Hanson, Marty 5.5 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Ripps, Lisa 6.5 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Auerbach, Mitch 7.8 Breunsbach, Rex 8 Braem, David 7.5 Eckel, Carolyn 5 Johnson, Megan 6 Lincoln, Wayne 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Breunsbach, Rex 8 Selby, Jim 5 Smith, Sheri Alice 5.2 Hiland, Kurt 13 Bourdin, Sherry 6.2 Smith, Sheri Alice 11.3 Smith, Dan 7.4 Eckel, Carolyn 4.5 Fellers, Whit 7.5 Johnson, Megan 6 Sherbeck, Terry 7 Van Rossen, Daniel 6 Hiland, Kurt 9 Foster, Dyanne 6 Breunsbach, Rex 9.4

Leader

Horsetail Creek–Oneonta Creek Loop Dry Creek Falls (AYM) Lacamas Lake Wahkeena–Multnomah Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (7.5 Mile Camp) Larch Mountain Three Spires Falls Creek Cave (AYM) Falls Creek Cave (AYM) Mt. Tabor Saddle Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Upper Salmonberry River Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble North Lake Herman Creek (AYM) Hamilton Mountain Benson Plateau Mt. Defiance Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dog Mountain Wilson River Trail Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Gales Creek–Storey Burn Loop Eagle Creek–Cascade Locks Wahkeena–Multnomah Creeks Hardy Ridge–Hamilton Moutnain Triple Falls Casey Creek Wahkeena–Devils Rest Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Devils Rest Westleg Road SS Estacada’s Eagle Creek

Date Trip

Legend: Att=Attendance BP=Backpack SS=Snowshoe TT=Trail Tending RTM=Round-the-Mountain O=Outing AYM: Adventurous Young Mazamas

Clockwise, from top: Ryan Cupp and Amanda Barbee celebrate on the summit of Mt. Rainier during a single-day ascent . Photo: Andrew Holman.

Greg Clark and John Meckel descend Gibson Peak in Trinity Alps Wilderness.

Photo: Al Papesh.

View from the tent on Mt. Baker. Photo: Alicia Imbody.

71

In Memoriam Mazamas Who Passed Away in 2013 Werner Bachli (1949) Jean Dunlop (1987) Linda Gray (1987) Michael Lemarte (1947) Robert Lothian (1997) Clarence Mershon (1970) Phyllis Towne (1975) Rhonda Whittlesey (1936) Charles Young (1992

membership year noted in parentheses

Accidentally omitted for 2012

East Face of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Bob Breivogel

George McGeary (1949) Jeanne Rathbone (1948) Sandra Thygesen (1991)