The Climbing Issue! April 2015 by Mazamas

APRIL 2015

VOL. 97

NO. 4

Special Climbing Issue!

Summer Climb Schedule Mt. Stuartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s West Ridge All That Remains

UPCOMING EVENTS APRIL 4—TREE PLANTING

Help Mazamas be good stewards of the evironment. Details, p. 26.

FEATURES

APRIL 10—THE EPIC OF EVEREST

Mazama Climbs 2015, p. 6 Summer Climb Schedule, p. 8 Climb Leader Info, p. 11 Applying for a Mazama Climb, p. 12 Time for Adventure: Mt. Spickard, p. 14 All That Remains, p. 16 How to Complete a Climb Card, p. 19 Altitude Training, p. 20 Mazama Lodge Outdoor Education Program, p. 22 Mazama Kilimanjaro Outing, p. 25 Re-Bolting Rock, p. 36 Mt. Stuart’s West Ridge, p. 38 Denali’s Howl: Book Review, p. 42

This film, first released in 1924, makes a its return to the big screen. Hollywood Theater, 7 p.m. portlandecofilmfest.org

APRIL 11—ARC’TERYX EVENT

The Mazamas, VitaCoco and Kind Bar will be at Arc’teryx Portland for the launch of their footwear line. Details, p. 27.

MONTHLY COLUMNS

APRIL 11—RAM’S HEAD RANDONEE AT MEADOWS A 2.4-mile course with uphill, downhill, and boot pack sections. Vendor village, BBQ, raffle, and live music. Co-hosted by the Mountain Shop and Mt. Hood Meadows. 8 a.m.–4 p.m.

John Rettig on Mt. Washington. Photo: Ally Imbody.

APRIL 15—MAIL YOUR CLIMB CARDS! It’s time to drop your climb cards in the mail. Get them in early for the best opportunity to get on climbs.

APRIL 20—ASI APPLICATION OPENS

Advanced Snow & Ice Application is open from April 20–May 20. Details, p. 30.

CONTACT US Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 • 503227-2345 • adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thursday Noon—Monday Noon

Publications Committee Cover: Approaching the famous knife edge summit on Eldorado Peak, North Cascades, Washington. Photo: Vaqas Malik.

Committee Chair: Kristie Perry, publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Bob Breivogel, Catherine Diaz, Ken Dubois, Joe Fox, Sue Griffith, Pam Monheimer, Lacy Turner

Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Upcoming Opportunities, p. 26 Classics, p. 29 20s & 30s, p. 28 Outings, p. 32 Mazama Lodge Notes, p. 34 Mazama Families, p. 35 Evening Travel Programs, p. 40 Trail Trips Info, p. 44 Executive Council Minutes, p. 46

Mazama Staff Lee Davis • Executive Director lee@mazamas.org Jamie Anderson •Member Services Manager jamie@mazamas.org Adam Baylor • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager adam@mazamas.org Mathew Brock • Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org Sarah Bradham • Marketing & Publications Manager sarah@mazamas.org Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager kati@mazamas.org Rick Craycraft • MMC Facility Manager rick@mazamas.org Charles Barker • Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Your Adventure Starts Here Many years ago the Mazama climb schedule represented the vast majority of climbing in the Pacific Northwest. In the late 1800s there were very few organized groups aiming to put people on top of the great Cascade volcanoes, so the climbs scheduled by the Mazamas then were unique. Those early Mazama climbs and expeditions created some of the first recorded maps and photos of the high mountain peaks of Oregon, Washington and Alaska. This is why you’ll find glaciers and creeks named after the Mazamas—because we drew the first maps! Today, there are many other organized groups, schools, formal guide companies and countless individual climbers heading into the mountains. Eager new climbers and explorers have more options than ever before, but while competition is on the rise, Mazama climbs remain distinctive in several ways. One is that we’re not a professional guide company; Mazama leaders are volunteers and as such we expect everyone on our climbs to play their part in helping the entire group climb safely and successfully. Another is that we expect all of our participants to take one or more of our extensive climbing education classes to ensure that they show up fit, appropriately skilled, equipped, and ready to go! The Mazama climb schedule published in this issue (see page 8) will be continually expanded online over the next several months, generating hundreds of climbs and helping thousands of relatively new climbers summit the great volcanoes and spires of the ADVERTISER INDEX Arc’teryx, p. 27 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 5 Centered in Motion, p. 41 Climb Max Mountaineering, p. 47 Embark Adventures, p. 29 Evolution Healthcare & Fitness, p. 43 Firn Line Designs, p. 5 Green Trails, p. 24 Lynne Pedersen: Physical Therapy, p. 33 Montbell, p. 13 Mountain Hardwear, p. 37

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT

Cascades. This Despite emphasis on creating all I have many opportunities seen and for new climbers to get experienced, I still get the same simple thrill started safely is at the out of glimpsing a tiny patch of snow in a core of who we are. In many places where high mountain gully and feel the same urge to large towns and cities climb towards it. -Sir Edmund Hillary are adjacent to technical terrain (mountains, rock the mountain environment through these or ice climbing,) small and informal groups programs, thereby helping the entire of friends form that like to climb together community. and share stories. These informal groups To keep our traditions alive and strong, eventually start collecting resources and the Mazamas needs more leaders, more become “clubs” in much the same way that assistants, and more enthusiastic beginners most of the original mountain clubs across each year. So, we encourage you to sign up North America were formed since the late for a Mazama climb this spring or summer, 19th century. to create new experiences in the mountains, Today, many of the old but smaller and to do what you can to share the joys of mountain clubs have had to close down for mountaineering with new climbers and our various reasons, but several have grown and entire community. evolved into nonprofits like the Mazamas. If you’re interested in opportunities to Nonprofit organizations gather resources and volunteer for the Mazamas and/or to learn organize programs not just for the members about leadership opportunities please but to benefit the public at large. contact Kati Mayfield, our volunteer manager Organizations like the Sierra Club, at the MMC at kati@mazamas.org and we’ll the Mountaineers, and the Appalachian get you started! Mountain Club all were formed in a similar Thank you, fashion to the Mazamas, and have grown and changed to become much more robust and complex community-focused organizations in the 21st century. Lee Davis, Executive Director At Mazamas we provide volunteer-led programming to help the community through stewardship, conservation, research, MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) advocacy, and education. Our mission is Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas. to promote mountaineering and protect

Advertise with us! tinyurl.com/MazamaAdvertising Mountain Shop, p. 31 Next Adventure, p. 34 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 4 Petzl, p. 36 Portland Rock Gym, p. 48 RI Adventure Travel, p. 25 Robert Joy Insurance Agency, p. 33 SMC Gear, p. 18 Sunny Freeman Real Estate, p. 33 Yatvin Computer Consultants, LLC., p. 4

org). Advertising: (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed (no snail mail) to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

APRIL 2015

DID YOU KNOW?

You Too Can Climb High by Sarah Bradham, Mazama Marketing & Publications Manager I was a Mazama member for 10 years before I really discovered the Mazama library. I knew that the Mazamas had a library and I occasionally checked out a guidebook. Yet, it wasn’t until I started working at the Mazama Mountaineering Center that I understood the importance of the library, and found myself awestruck at the history it contained. The Mazamas have kept records of climbs, hikes, research, and myriad other things since the organization’s inception in 1894. As we began to work on this special climbing issue, I became curious about the number of successful climbs, climbers, and leaders through the years. Wandering down to the library and pulling a book of bound Annuals and Bulletins off the shelf quickly allowed me to answer these questions (at least dating back to the late 1940s, before that I had to rely on archivist Jeff Thomas).

In 1895 the Mazamas launched 5 summit attempts—Mts. Baker, Rainier, Adams, Hood, and Jefferson. In 1935 there were 13 official Mazama climbs. By 1955 that number was up to 50, with 26 leaders tackling 25 different peaks. At the midpoint of the 1960s climbing was on a huge growth spurt. There were more than 160 successful climbs on 61 different peaks. As we launched into a new century, there were 208 successful climbs on 67 peaks. For each of these climbs, the mountain, route, date, and the names of the climb leader, assistant, and climb team members are recorded (in earlier years you’ll even find weather conditions). Each month you’ll find these details reported in the pages of the Bulletin. Currently, there are 171 climbs scheduled for this season, with additional climbs being added daily. Will you stand atop a peak with us in 2015 and add your name to Mazama history?

▶▶ Stay connected with Mazamas on Facebook. Like our page today: facebook.com/ mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. The publication is in full color and is easily readable on tablets and laptops. ▶▶ You can download a PDF of the Bulletin if you login to the Member pages of the Mazama website. Login, click on the Members tab and click on Mazama Bulletin & Annual. ▶▶ You can advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/ MazamasAds for details. ▶▶ Read interesting Mazama stories, and relevant information from around the web on the Mazama blog. Mazamas.blogspot.com

Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.

Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

MAZAMAS

Spring Tree Planting Event Saturday, April 4

The Mazamas are excited to team up with the Sandy River Basin Watershed Council again for the spring tree planting, Saturday, April 4 in the Mt. Hood National Forest. Please join us for a fun day of planting trees and restoring old logging roads to healthy forest habitat. You can help the Mazamas meet our goal of becoming a carbonneutral organization and leaders in stewardship on Mt. Hood! For more information please contact Advocacy and Stewardship Manager Adam Baylor, adam@ mazamas.org.

Elk-King Trail Tending Saturday, April 11

Help keep our adopted trail open. No previous experience needed. We will cut back encroaching brush and restore tread as needed. Bring gloves and boots, and dress appropriately for the weather. Tools provided, call to leader for tool planning appreciated! 4 miles, 2,000 ft., Dr 66 Target/185th 8 a.m. RSVP to leader Rick Pope, 503860-8789.

Tabling Volunteers Needed Friday & Saturday, April 10 & 11

We need tabling volunteers to represent the Mazamas at two fun events in April. Choose to table at one or both. First, on Friday April 10 we will be at the Hollywood Theater to table before the screening of the Epic of Everest, a beautiful restored film from 1924. Then, on Saturday April 11 we need volunteers at the Arc’teryx store in Northwest Portland, part of the rollout event for their new footwear line. We need volunteers in 2-or-3-hour shifts from 11 a.m.–5 p.m., preferably two people per shift. Represent the Mazamas, answer questions about what we do, and help direct people where they can go to get more answers. To sign up or get more info about either of these events, email Gary Ballou at outreach@azamas.org.

Looking for Lady Belayers Saturday, April 25

Ladies, want to help some awesome girls learn to climb! We are hosting girls from the Adelante Chicas program on Saturday, April 25 from 9 a.m.–3 p.m. for our kids Learn to Climb Class, and are looking for female volunteers to instruct. Volunteers will ideally have ICS and/or AR. To learn more or sign up, contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org.

Archive Assistant

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES

Ongoing

Make the amazing material in the Mazama archives more available to researchers. Join us as an archival volunteer to assist with basic archival functions such as processing, preservation, reference, etc. Requires lifting, bending and stooping. Volunteers should have experience in archival work or an ability to put materials in alphabetical, numerical and chronological order; an interest in Oregon mountaineering history; basic computer skills; good attention to detail and willingness to do repetitive tasks. Contact Mathew Brock, mathew@ mazamas.org, to sign up or learn more.

Library Assistant Ongoing

Library assistants help keep our collection in good order. Help move library materials from being checked out back onto the shelves. May include checking in books, sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves and other tasks. Volunteers will ideally have experience with Dewey Decimal Classification System and experience with library databases; but at minimum must love to organize and alphabetize. This will also require lifting, bending and stooping. Contact Mathew Brock, mathew@mazamas.org, to sign up or learn more.

KATI MAYFIELD VOLUNTEER MANAGER KATI@MAZAMAS.ORG

Kati Mayfield joined the Mazamas as Volunteer Manager in 2012. In this role she supports Mazama volunteers by connecting them with the resources and information they need to fulfill their duties; and by helping new volunteers engage in meaningful ways. Kati also manages the Youth Outreach Program, geared towards creating opportunities for kids in our community to learn about and play in the mountains.

APRIL 2015

Mt. Baker One of the prettiest places you might ever camp is on the flanks of Mt. Baker. With stunning views of the North Cascades, the scenery canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be beat. 10,788 ft.

Mt. Hood

Our home mountain, the one that inspired many Mazamas to learn to climb. Mt. Hood offers climbs ranging from beginner to advanced level. 11,250 ft.

Mt. Shasta Mt. Shasta is a large peak and stands alone close to the southern terminus of the Cascade range. Routes of varying ability allow novices to advanced climbers to enjoy this peak. 14,162 ft. 6

MAZAMAS

There are currently more than 170 climbs on the summer climb schedule with more being added every day. This map provides you with a graphic of where you can choose to climb with the Mazamas this summer! Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find climbs in the Pacific Northwest, California, and BC, ranging from beginner to advanced. The number in the circle indicates the number of scheduled climbs on the peak.

5 4

Mt. Rainier The second highest peak in the lower 48, Mt. Rainier is a highly coveted climb by many. The most commonly climbed routes are the Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons Glacier. 14,411 ft.

Mt. Stuart Located in the heart of the Central Cascades, Mt. Stuart has numerous routes to choose from, the most frequently climbed is Cascadian Couloir. 9,415 ft.

Mt. Jefferson Middle Sister The North Ridge is the most frequently climbed route and can be accessed from either the east or west. A great beginner climb, offering a moderate approach and beautiful camping. 10,047 ft.

The second highest peak in Oregon, Mt. Jefferson is one of the most challenging of the 16 major northwest peaks, The last 200 vertifcal feet is the crux of the most commonly climbed route, the South Ridge. 10,497 ft.

APRIL 2015

Summer Climb Schedule The next three pages contain the current summer climb schedule. Please note that climb grades and other codes are defined on page ___. We highly suggest that you review the details of the climbs you are interested in online as there may be important details online that are not included here. Climbs are continually added to the online schedule, check back often!

Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

Leader

Spots

Status

5/1–12AM 5/2–AM 5/4–AM 5/5–11PM 5/6–AM 5/6–AM 5/7–PM 5/8–10PM 5/8–5PM 5/8–AM 5/10–AM 5/11–AM 5/14–10PM 5/16–AM 5/16–AM 5/17–AM 5/18–AM 5/18–AM 5/21–10PM 5/22–5PM 5/22–8AM 5/23–AM 5/23–AM 5/23–AM 5/23–AM 5/24–AM 5/24–AM 5/25–AM 5/28–AM 5/28–AM 5/29–PM 5/30–7AM 5/30–AM 5/30–AM 5/31–11PM 5/31–AM 6/4–PM 6/5–AM 6/5–PM 6/6–5AM 6/6–AM 6/6–AM 6/7–AM 6/8–AM 6/9–10PM 6/9–AM 6/9–AM 6/9–PM 6/9–PM 6/11–12PM 6/11–5PM 6/12–AM 6/13–AM 6/13–AM 6/13–AM 6/14–11PM 6/14–AM 6/15–AM 6/18–AM

5/1–PM 5/2–PM 5/4–PM 5/6–5PM 5/6–PM 5/7–PM 5/8–PM 5/9–PM 5/9–PM 5/8–PM 5/10–PM 5/11–PM 5/15–5PM 5/16–PM 5/16–PM 5/17–PM 5/18–PM 5/18–PM 5/22–5PM 5/25–6PM 5/24–8PM 5/23–PM 5/23–PM 5/23–PM 5/25–PM 5/26–PM 5/24–PM 5/25–PM 5/31–PM 5/31–PM 5/30–PM 5/30–4PM 5/30–PM 5/31–PM 6/1–PM 5/31–PM 6/5–PM 6/5–PM 6/6–PM 6/6–9PM 6/7–PM 6/6–PM 6/8–PM 6/8–PM 6/10–5PM 6/11–PM 6/10–PM 6/11–PM 6/11–PM 6/12–PM 6/14–PM 6/14–PM 6/13–PM 6/15–PM 6/13–PM 6/15–4PM 6/14–PM 6/16–PM 6/20–PM

Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek—Worm Flowsö Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek—Worm Flowsö Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek—Worm Flowsö Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek—Worm Flowsö Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek—Worm Flowsö Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Ellinor & Mt. Washington, Traverse Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek—Worm Flowsö Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Eagle & Chutla Peak, Longmire Trail Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Old Chute Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek—Worm Flowsö Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Angeles, East Ridge The Tooth, South Face Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Sunshine Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Buckner, SW Route Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Mt. Hood, South Side The Brothers, South Couloir/Lena Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Old Chute Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver

B(ICS) A(BCEP) B(BCEP) B(N)(BCEP) A(BCEP) A+ B(BCEP) B(N)(BCEP) A A(BCEP) A(BCEP) B B(N)(BCEP) B(E)(BCEP) (ICS) B(BCEP) A(BCEP) B B B(N)(BCEP) B+ D(E)(AR) B(A #787)(BCEP) A(BCEP) B(BCEP) (ICS) C+(BCEP) (ICS) D(AR) B(A #788) B B+(N)(BCEP) B+(BCEP) (ICS) B(N)(E)(BCEP) (ICS) B(BCEP) (ICS) B(A #792)(BCEP) (ICS) A(P)(BCEP) A(BCEP) B(A #791)(BCEP) (ICS) A(A #773) B(BCEP) B(A #772) C(ICS) B+(BCEP) B(BCEP) (ICS) C+(ICS) B B(N)(BCEP) B(L #816)(BCEP) B(L)(BCEP) B(L #771)(BCEP) B(L #770)(BCEP) B+(BCEP) (ICS) C+(E) B(BCEP) B(P)(BCEP) B+ B(A #786)(BCEP) B(BCEP) B(A #785)(BCEP) B+(P)(BCEP) C+(ICS)

Larry Beck Kevin Clark Lisa Brady Tim Scott Bob Breivogel Doug Wilson Gary Bishop Richard Bronder Andrew Bodien Gregory Willmarth George Shay Paul Underwood Tim Scott Walter Keutel Bob Breivogel Eileen Kiely Amy Graham Azure Olson Tim Scott Bob Breivogel Glenn Widener Paul Underwood Eileen Kiely George Shay Rick Posekany John Meckel Paul Underwood Paul Underwood Rayce Boucher Larry Beck Greg Scott Steve Heikkila Walter Keutel Joseph Eberhardt Dan Schuster Walter Keutel Doug Wilson Gary Bishop Doug Wilson Glenn Widener Eileen Kiely George Shay Gary Ballou Paul Underwood Tim Scott Shirley Welch Marty Scott Doug Wilson Doug Wilson Walter Keutel Linda E. Mark Eileen Kiely Joseph Eberhardt Bob Breivogel Paul Underwood Dan Schuster Paul Underwood Justin Brady Michael Hortsch

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Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open

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MAZAMAS

Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

Leader

Spots

Status

6/19–7AM 6/19–AM 6/19–PM 6/20–AM 6/20–AM 6/21–AM 6/26–AM 6/26–AM 6/27–10PM 6/27–AM 6/27–AM 6/27–AM 6/27–AM 6/27–PM 6/28–8AM 6/28–AM 6/28–PM 7/2–AM 7/2–AM 7/3–AM 7/8–3PM 7/10–AM 7/10–AM 7/10–AM 7/10–AM 7/10–AM 7/10–AM 7/11–AM 7/17–AM 7/17–AM 7/18–AM 7/19–4PM 7/19–AM 7/23–AM 7/23–AM 7/24–AM 7/24–AM 7/24–AM 7/24–AM 7/24–PM 7/25–8AM 7/27–AM 7/27–PM 7/28–5PM 7/31–AM 7/31–AM 8/2–AM 8/2–AM 8/6–5PM 8/7–AM 8/7–AM 8/7–AM 8/11–AM 8/14–AM 8/14–AM 8/14–AM 8/14–AM 8/14–AM 8/16–AM 8/19–AM 8/21–AM 8/21–AM 8/21–AM 8/21–AM

6/21–6PM 6/20–PM 6/21–PM 6/21–PM 6/20–PM 6/21–PM 6/28–PM 6/27–PM 6/28–8PM 6/28–PM 6/28–PM 6/28–PM 6/27–PM 6/28–PM 7/1–PM 6/28–PM 6/29–PM 7/4–PM 7/3–PM 7/5–PM 7/12–10PM 7/12–PM 7/12–PM 7/13–PM 7/12–PM 7/12–PM 7/11–PM 7/11–PM 7/19–PM 7/20–PM 7/18–PM 7/23–PM 7/19–PM 7/24–PM 7/25–PM 7/25–PM 7/26–PM 7/26–PM 7/24–PM 7/25–PM 7/27–4PM 7/28–PM 7/28–PM 7/30–11PM 8/2–PM 8/5–PM 8/4–PM 8/2–PM 8/9–PM 8/7–PM 8/9–PM 8/8–PM 8/11–PM 8/15–PM 8/16–PM 8/15–PM 8/16–PM 8/16–PM 8/16–PM 8/19–PM 8/22–PM 8/22–PM 8/22–PM 8/22–PM

Mt. Cruiser, South Corner Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Bretherton, Lena Lakes Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge The Tooth, South Face Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer, Standard Route Eagle & Chutla Peak, Longmire Trail Hibox Mountain, NW Route Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lakes/Standard Route Mt. Ellinor & Mt. Washington, Traverse Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Adams, North Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Old Snowy & Ives Peak, Standard Route Mt. Stuart, North Ridge Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm—Cascade Pass South Sister, Devil’s Lake Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Skyscraper & Burroughs Mountain, Shadow Lake Mt. Shasta, West Face Gully Barrier Peak, Governor’s Ridge Cowlitz Chimney, West Side Little Mt. Adams, NW Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats The Tooth, South Face Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Mt. Jefferson, East Face Hidden Lake Peak, North Ridge Tatoosh Traverse, Pinnacle-Eagle Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm—Cascade Pass Mt. Jefferson, Whitewater Glacier Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge Broken Top, Green Lakes—NW Ridge Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir South Sister, Devil’s Lake Mt. Temple, SW Ridge Broken Top, Green Lakes - NW Ridge Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer, Standard Route Del Campo Peak, South Gully Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir Tamanos Mountain, Owyhigh Trail South Sister, Green Lakes Athabasca, North Glacier Aurora Peak & Tokaloo Rock, St. Andrew’s Lake Broken Top, Green Lakes—NW Ridge Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge

C+(E)(ICS) A+(N)(BCEP) A+(E) D+(E) B(L 837)(BCEP) (ICS) B(L #836)(BCEP) (ICS) C B(BCEP) B B(L) A(L) A(E) A(F)(P)(A) B(E) C+(ICS) B(F)(P)(A) B(N)(BCEP) B+ A+(BCEP) A+(R)(BCEP) E+ D+(E) B+(P)(ICS) C+(ICS) B+(BCEP) (ICS) B+(E) A(BCEP) C(ICS) (AR) A+(F)(P)(BCEP) B+(E)(BCEP) A(A #876) B+ B B+(E) A(R)(E) A+(BCEP) B+(BCEP) A+(F)(P) C(E) B(BCEP) C+(ICS) B(A #846)(BCEP) B(E) B+(A #847) C+(R)(ICS) C+(ICS) C(E)(ICS) C(BCEP) B+(E) B(BCEP) B+(P)(BCEP) A(H)(N) B B+(L #720)(BCEP) B(N)(L #784)(BCEP) B+(E)(BCEP) B+(BCEP) A(N)(L #781)(BCEP) A+(N)(L)(BCEP) B A+(E) B+(BCEP) A+(BCEP) C(BCEP)

Glenn Widener Greg Scott Kevin Clark Preston Corless George Cummings George Cummings Rayce Boucher Ted Slupesky Dan Schuster Jeff Litwak Jeff Litwak Bob Breivogel Justin Rotherham Ryan Christie Larry Beck Justin Rotherham Ania Wiktorowicz Amy Mendenhall Gary Bishop Dan Schuster Jeff Hawkins Thomas Miller Joseph Eberhardt Bill McLoughlin George Shay Ania Wiktorowicz Lori Freeman Matt Carter Matt Carter Eileen Kiely Bob Breivogel Dan Schuster Bob Breivogel Doug Wilson Joe Whittington Lori Freeman Ted Slupesky Justin Rotherham Jeff Litwak Andrew Bodien Glenn Widener Bob Breivogel Doug Wilson Bob Breivogel Josh Lockerby Eileen Kiely Larry Beck Rick Posekany Linda E. Mark John Godino Joseph Eberhardt Lori Freeman Bob Breivogel Gary Ballou Richard Bronder Gary Bishop Michael Hortsch Richard Bronder Amy Mendenhall Bob Breivogel Doug Wilson Paul Underwood Lori Freeman Ted Slupesky

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Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Alternates Open Open Alternates Open Open Open Open Alternates Open Open Alternates Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open

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APRIL 2015

t. n o c . e l u d e h c S b m i l C r e m Sum Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

Leader

Spots

Status

8/21–PM 8/22–AM 8/22–AM 8/23–AM 8/26–AM 8/26–AM 8/27–AM 8/27–AM 8/28–AM 8/28–AM 8/28–AM 8/28–AM 8/29–AM 8/29–AM 8/31–AM 9/2–AM 9/4–AM 9/4–AM 9/4–AM 9/5–AM 9/5–AM 9/5–AM 9/5–AM 9/5–PM 9/6–AM 9/10–AM 9/10–AM 9/11–3PM 9/11–5PM 9/11–AM 9/11–AM 9/11–PM 9/12–AM 9/12–AM 9/13–AM 9/18–AM 9/18–AM 9/18–PM 9/25–AM 9/27–AM 10/1–12PM 10/2–AM 10/2–AM 10/17–AM

8/23–PM 8/23–PM 8/23–PM 8/23–PM 8/28–PM 8/28–PM 8/30–PM 8/29–PM 8/30–PM 8/30–PM 8/30–PM 8/29–PM 8/30–PM 8/31–PM 9/2–PM 9/2–PM 9/5–PM 9/7–PM 9/4–PM 9/6–PM 9/7–PM 9/7–PM 9/6–PM 9/6–PM 9/6–PM 9/10–PM 9/10–PM 9/12–10PM 9/13–11PM 9/13–PM 9/12–PM 9/12–PM 9/12–PM 9/12–PM 9/13–PM 9/19–PM 9/19–PM 9/19–PM 9/25–PM 9/27–PM 10/4–PM 10/4–PM 10/3–PM 10/18–PM

Del Campo Peak, South Gully Broken Top, Green Lakes - NW Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge South Sister, Devil’s Lake Broken Top, Green Lakes—NW Ridge South Sister, Green Lakes Ingalls Peak, South Face Paulina Peak, West Saddle Kyes Peak, South Ridge Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Stuart, West Ridge South Sister, Devil’s Lake Mt. Washington, North Ridge North Sister, South Ridge Sloan Peak, Corkscrew Route Mt. Fremont, Standard Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Mt. Whitney, East Buttress Yakima Peak, East Ridge Broken Top, Green Lakes—NW Ridge North Early Winter Spire, NW Corner—Boving Route North Sister, Northwest Ridge South Sister, Devil’s Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridgeö Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridgeö Plummer Peak, Standard Route Mt. Washington, North Ridge Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridgeö Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats Broken Top, Green Lakes - NW Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Union Peak, Standard Route Mt. Triumph, NE Ridge Mt. Washington, North Ridge Broken Top, Green Lakes—NW Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Mt. Washington, North Ridge Mt. Thompson, Grizzly Meadows Mt. Temple, North Face Prusik Peak, West Ridge Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge

B+(E) B(BCEP) C(BCEP) A B+(L #778) A(L #777) D+(L)(E)(AR) A(R) B+(E) B+(BCEP) (ICS) D(L #748)(AR) A(H) C(ICS) C+(ICS) C+ A(R)(A)(E) D(A #879) D+(ICS) (AR) A(R) B+ E(A #878)(AR) C+(ICS) A(BCEP) B(E)(BCEP) A(H) A(H) A(R) C(E)(BCEP) (ICS) B D(E)(AR) A(N)(BCEP) A(H) B(BCEP) B(L)(A) A(A)(BCEP) E+(E) C(P)(ICS) B(BCEP) B(BCEP) C A+(E) D+(L #794)(E) D+(L #894)(E) B+(BCEP) (ICS)

Andrew Bodien Paul Underwood Eileen Kiely James Jula Doug Wilson Doug Wilson Justin Brady Joe Whittington Kevin Clark Rick Posekany Gary Ballou Lori Freeman Eileen Kiely John Godino Marty Scott Ray Sheldon Thomas Miller Ryan Christie Ray Sheldon Bob Breivogel Thomas Miller Eileen Kiely George Shay Jon Major Bruce Yatvin* Amy Mendenhall Ray Sheldon Larry Beck Dan Schuster Gary Ballou Richard Bronder Lori Freeman Bruce Yatvin* Paul Underwood Paul Underwood Preston Corless Joseph Eberhardt Josh Lockerby Gary Bishop Amy Mendenhall Kevin Clark Preston Corless Preston Corless Walter Keutel

7 7 7 10 7 7 2 11 7 8 2 10 7 11 6 10 5 5 10 8 5 7 9 7 9 6 10 6 8 1 8 10 7 7 7 5 6 10 7 4 7 5 5 8

901 783 798 898 777 778 748 873 807 896 743 826 799 866 844 812 878 891 813 845 879 797 764 838 727 731 814 833 885 738 802 827 739 779 780 795 746 830 767 733 870 892 794 793

KEY:

• + Indicates a pack in to a base camp on route • A: Adjacent climbs. MAY sign up for both (two climbs in the same area.) • R: Relaxed pace (those of any age desiring a slower paced climb) • E: Exploratory (the leader has not climbed this route before) • F: Family Climbs. Slower pace and child-friendly • H: Hike-to-the-Summit. Moderate climbs for experienced hikers. • L: Linked climbs. MUST sign up for both. • N: Novice. Climb leader is willing to take inexperienced climbers • P: Provisional (A new climb leader is being evaluated by an experienced climb leader.) • S: Ski Mountaineering • Y: 20s & 30s (under 40) Grad Emphasis: The column labeled “Grad” helps 2015 class graduates determine the routes appropriate for their skill level and indicates that the leader is interested in taking these class grads on the climb. However, please note, these climbs are NOT limited to these class grads.

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Climbs Grades: A: May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, and self-arrest. B: All the skills of A, in addition to glacier travel, and roped climbing. C: All the skills of B, in addition to crevasse rescue skills, belaying and rappelling and low 5th-class rock climbing. D: All the skills of C, in addition to travel on steep snow slopes and 5th-class rock climbing. E: Multi-pitch technical routes same as D but with a high degree of self-sufficiency and proficiency using technical skills under high exposure, sharing highangle leads, setting protection and anchors.

Applying for a Mazama Climb What do you Need to Know?

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 12

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Find a climb you want to join. Review the print schedule on pages 8â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10; go online for the most up to date schedule: mazamas.org/climb. Purchase a Climb Card. Online or in person at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. $20 member (up to 4 at this rate for BCEP students)/ $30 nonmembers. Review the full details of the climb online. Go to mazamas.org/climb. Some climbs have deatiled information that isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t printed in the Bulletin.

Fill out a Climb Card. Need help with the climb card process? See the next page.

Insert the completed climb card into an envelope. Address, stamp, and mail the climb card. Mail to the climb leader (addresses on page 11), not the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Mail on April 15 for your best chance of being accepted on popular routes. Cards mailed before April 15 will not be accepted.

Wait. Climb leaders have numerous cards to review. Some wait until just a few weeks before the climb to choose their team.

CLIMB! If you are listed as an alternate for a climb, keep your schedule open and hope for a space to open up. If the climb and alternate list are full, return the climb card to the MMC for a new card.

APRIL 2015

Time for Adventure Mt. Spickard—8,879 ft. by Bob Breivogel

t. Spickard is a complex glaciated massif two miles south of the Canadian border in the North Cascades National Park. It is located six miles west of Ross Lake and three miles northeast of its neighbor, Mt. Redoubt. This is one of the most remote areas in the Cascades, best approached via Chilliwack Lake in Canada. There are poorly maintained trails, rough cross country travel, a scramble around a waterfall, glacier travel, exposed rock, and a questionable chance of rescue if anything happens. Since you cross the US-Canadian border without an official checkpoint, the trip borders on illegal as far as the authorities are concerned. Definitely the makings of an adventure or epic. I led this as a Mazama C-level climb in early August of 2005, along with Kate Evans, Jon Major, and Chris Mortensen. From Portland, we drove north to Bellingham, entering Canada at the Sumas border crossing. After a 17-mile drive east on the Trans-Canada highway, we turned south from Sardis (and the last Tim Horton’s donut shop!), crossed the Chilliwack River bridge onto the Chilliwack Lake Road. The Chilliwack road was decent for 25 miles until the Chilliwack Lake campground. After that it was very slow and rutted until we reached a junction with Depot Creek road (an old logging road, at 31.7 miles), just short of a gated bridge over Depot Creek. There was a camp spot on the road near the bridge and a better one 3/4 mile up this road at 2,200 feet elevation. A Subaru could navigate

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only a bit past this upper camp (and a 4x4 perhaps another mile), so we parked here. The next morning, we hiked the road from our camp, bearing left at the first two road junctions (ignoring some short dead-end branches). At an obvious 3-way T-junction (about 1.3 miles from the car) we headed right, on a brushy and muddy old road going south towards the border. A half hour and 1½ miles later we crossed the border—marked with a metal obelisk and a North Cascade Park sign-in box. Apparently park rangers occasionally passed that way. The trail improved somewhat once on the US side, but was still faint in places. A windfall had obliterated a section of about 200 yards long on the north flank of Depot Creek, providing more bushwacking experience. The trail continued through dense fir forest for a while before becoming gradually more open. It finally veered left upslope and traversed the hill above the creek. Below an impressive cascading waterfall three miles from the border, the trail broke out into mixed brush and boulders. We followed surveyor’s tape marking a climber’s trail and crossed another minor creek. Then we headed up between this creek and the main Depot Creek to a rock slab area where mist from the falls sprayed

both the rock and climbers. An old fixed line here allowed us to climb a slippery 10 foot rock step with a bit of ( false?) security. Two hundred feet further up the left edge of the waterfall creek, an opening appeared to the left into berry bushes. Here there was another fixed line and second small rock step. The trail continued ascending left of the falls through boulders, talus, and lastly brush for nearly 1,000 feet to a level meadow-like basin at 4,800 feet elevation. We stayed along the left edge of this basin to avoid stream crossings and dense brush. The basin forms the start of a valley that heads southeast 1.3 miles up to Ouzel Lake. The valley becomes a wide boulder field with a creek in the middle. We continued up along the left side of this creek to the moraine below Ouzel Lake at 5,700 feet. The lake is located in a huge amphitheater,

CLIMB DETAILS:

whose steep 1,000 foot walls channel numerous waterfalls from the glaciers above. We found a nice camp spot beside the fireweed-fringed lake after nine hours hiking. This came to a just 8 miles and a 3,800 foot gain—less than 1 mile per hour. Though seemingly slow, this was actually better than on a prior trip I had done here, as an intervening fall flood had washed away much of the brush along the creek below Ouzel Lake. The following day dawned clear and fine, but Jon Major had come down with a stomach ailment overnight. We had originally planned to do the North Glacier route, but Jon turned back after only a short bit of hiking. We decided to change to the alternative South slope route, as it had less glacier travel (safer for a smaller group, and which just branched off the North Glacier approach). We left camp at 6 a.m. and headed northeast up a boulder field gully and then onto heather slopes at about 6,000 feet. Continuing up this to about 6,900 feet, we reached a rocky basin. Next, we headed east towards a pocket glacier and ascended lower rock steps on the right side to reach its lower margin. The glacier was icy at the start, and around 35–40 degrees, dictating crampons and ice axe, along with ropes

and pickets. We headed straight up just right of a rock wall to a col at 8,000 feet. The col was easily passed and we immediately headed NE up a rock gulley just right of a rib. After some extended loose and exposed rock side-hills, we summited at 1:30 p.m. We had ascended 3,800 feet in a bit less than 2 miles from camp. Descent back to the col was easy enough. Snow on the glacier was now very soft and the possibility of hidden crevasses existed, so we traversed. A few pickets were placed for protection. Once off the glacier we easily reached camp at 7:30 in the evening. We had a well-earned dinner and enjoyed a nice sunset as we recounted our climb with Jon. The next morning, we packed up early under clear skies and headed back to our car. Jon had fortunately recovered his strength, and we were out by 2 p.m. The only worry was descending the waterfall area on the fixed ropes—they seemed less safe going down than up. We arrived back in Portland that evening after a long drive. Spickard (and its neighbor, Redoubt) are seldom done, but have all the characteristics of great wilderness adventures. Challenging route-finding, solitude, spectacular scenery, interesting climbing—and in a foreign country too!

▶▶ Peak: Mt. Spickard ▶▶ Location: Washington, North Cascades National Park, Whatcom County ▶▶ Elevation: 8,879 ft. (the highest peak in the Chilliwack Group. Other peaks include: Rahm, 8.478 ft.; Custer 8,630 ft.; Redoubt, 8.969 ft.; and Mox, 8,509 ft.) ▶▶ Vertical gain from trailhead: 6,580 ft. ▶▶ Route options: South Slope/ South Ridge (easiest option), Northwest Ridge, North Face. ▶▶ Minimum Skills Required: Mixed snow and rock climbing, 4th class scrambling, snow between 35–50 degrees. ▶▶ Drive time from Portland: Approx. 6.5 hours ▶▶ Duration: Possible in a day, typically done as a two day or leisurely three day climb to enjoy other peaks in the area. ▶▶ First Ascent: 1904 by Walter A. Raeburn ▶▶ History: Original name, Glacier Peak. ▶▶ Resources: Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 3: Rainy Pass to Fraser River, by Fred Beckey.

Center: Kate Evans on Mt. Spickard. Top: Looking up towards the objective. Photos: Bob Breivogel. APRIL 2015

All That Remains

Deserving climbs that aren’t on the climb schedule this year by John Frieh

e are blessed … or perhaps cursed? The Northwest is the home to the best mountain climbing in the lower 48—more mountains and routes than anyone will have time to climb in their lifetime; Fred Beckey included. So how do you choose? The annual Mazama climbing list is a good start but what’s missing? In no particular order, here are but a few that should be on your to do list for this year: Six miles up Mountaineers Creek in the Enchantments you will find “Jason’s Esophagus,” the NE Couloir on Argonaut Peak. With the low snow year this year you are going to want to climb this right away, as it will likely melt out before May. With moderate snow slopes leading to easy rock climbing on granite to the summit, think of this as an improved, more interesting version of the Zipper on Lane Peak. For those so inclined, from the summit of Argonaut you can easily traverse and summit Colchuck and Dragontail, making for a productive day and fun loop in the Enchantments. See Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide Volume I or cascadeclimbers. com trip reports for more details. Another early season alpine climb tucked away in the Enchantments is Stuart Glacier Couloir on Mt. Stuart. Arguably one of my favorite spring climbs in the Enchantments

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at WI3*, 5.6** and some moderate snow, it’s a classic alpine sampler. Route finding on the west ridge can be a little daunting for anyone who hasn’t climbed the west ridge before, but given the plethora of internet beta these days, in addition to Nelson & Potterfield’s Selected Climbs in the Cascades (Volume I & II) guidebook you will have to try your hardest to get off route. Maybe just bring someone who has climbed the West Ridge in summer. Do climb it before the Sherpa Glacier descent melts out or plan on a complicated descent. This year, the route will likely be in shape through the end of April. A classic. If the moderate snow and a little ice climbing on Stuart Glacier Couloir sounds fun but the 5.6 in boots does not, consider the Ice Cliff Glacier on Mt. Stuart instead. A little more direct, with no technical rock climbing makes, this climb is a good choice for the confident Advanced Snow & Ice (A graduate looking to use their skills in the mountains. See Nelson’s Selected Climbs for route info. This is another great route on the north side of Mt. Stuart and should be in until May.

One advantage of this low snow year is that highway 20 will likely open up much sooner. Consider heading to Washington Pass and climbing first the SW Couloir on South Early Winter Spire, an easy snow couloir to the summit. Descend, have lunch and let it warm up before climbing the South Arete (a few moves of 5.4, mostly scrambling) back to the summit for a day of snow and rock. Nelson’s Selected Climbs guidebook has details on both routes. A fun, early season day out. Another fine alpine climb found at Washington Pass is the North Face of Burgundy Spire. Doable as either a long day car to car or fine camping away from the highway for those who like to sleep in. Though only a few miles down the road from the Liberty Bell group this climb will feel significantly more alpine and exposed. With the easiest route to the summit

*WI3 represents a difficulty grade for water ice climbing. **5.6 represents a difficulty grade for technical rock under the Yosemite Decimal System.

Right: Daniel Harro belaying his wife, Elisif, up the third mixed pitch of Stuart Glacier Couloir on Mt. Stuart. Stuart Glacier Couloir ascends the North Face of Mt. Stuart climbers right of the North ridge, intersecting the West Ridge 5 pitches below the summit. Photo: John Frieh. Left: The author enjoying some of the flawless granite Idaho has tucked away in the Sawtooths. Think Yosemite minus the crowds and tourists. Photo: Brock Mayo.

checking at 5.8 it is also one of the less visited summits in the area. Save this one for the hottest days of summer, the elevation and north facing aspect will save you from the heat. Do you like wide cracks? Chimneys? Or perhaps you want to practice your chimney technique before climbing Epinephrine in Red Rocks this fall? Or perhaps are you embarrassed you still haven’t placed your #5 Camalot? With multiple pitches of the wide crack, the East Face of Lexington Tower (5.9, 10 pitches) is an excellent candidate for those hoping to gain some valuable chimney experience. Though you can jump on this as soon as highway 20 opens, I would recommend waiting until later in the summer when the route has had ample time to dry out. It’s an easy day for anyone consistently climbing 5.9 at Smith. This is also in Nelson’s Selected Climbs. The South Ridge of Mt. Gimli (5.10- 8 pitches) is arguably one of the most aesthetically pleasing routes in the NW. Don’t let the grade scare you off; it’s maybe a move or two of 10- at most with the rest

of the route 5.fun on some of the cleanest alpine rock you will ever touch—some have said cleaner than Outer Space in Leavenworth. Worth the long drive from Portland; go see for yourself. Don’t forget your passport. Speaking of aesthetically pleasing routes in the northwest, the East Ridge of Eldorado Peak offers many their first experience with a “knife edge” snow ridge. Steep on both sides and surrounded by amazing views of the Northern Cascade National Park, this should be on everyone’s to do list. Get details in Nelson’s Selected Climbs. Though most people will tell you they enjoyed their climb of the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak they will probably also tell you how crowded it was. As one of the 50 classic climbs, the West Ridge gets more than its share of attention. Fortunately for you, both the East Ridge (5.8) and the North Ridge (5.0) of Forbidden Peak are just as good as the West Ridge. Consider the North Ridge if you happen to go earlier in the spring/summer and opt for the East Ridge later in the year as the glaciers feel the effects of summer. Both great climbs you will find less crowded and in Nelson’s Selected Climbs guidebook.

Though technically a rock climb, Davis-Holland to Lovin Arms at Index is one of the best rock climbs in Washington State. Six pitches up to 10+ that must be experienced. Come find out why many regard Index as the best crag in Washington and why many climbers spend their summers getting strong at Index before heading south to Yosemite in the fall. Finally, I will leave you with one of my favorite alpine rock routes in the northwest: the North Face of the Finger of Fate. Yes, this is in Idaho, which means some serious road trip time. That said, every single person I know that has climbed this said it was worth the 10-hour drive from Portland. Six pitches of granite perfection. Consider combining this with a route or two on the Elephant’s Perch for an awesome long weekend in Idaho. Worth the drive.

When he isn’t traveling the world or chasing after his unruly children John Frieh likes climbing; especially in Alaska. John has seven first ascents and one first winter ascent in Alaska to his name. His climbing experience in the northwest is a big part of his success.

APRIL 2015

PICKETS - SNOW ANCHORS - PULLEYS - DESCENDERS - EDGE PROTECTION - CARABINERS - RIGGING PLATES - RINGS

PHOTO BY: DEAN FLEMING

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How to Complete a Climb Card A Simple Step-By-Step Guide

1 2

REVIEW. Review the climb details online at

Familiarize yourself with the rules & regulations of Mazama climbs before you apply. Read this page in its entirety: tinyurl.com/MazClimbRules

mazamas.org/climb to ensure that the dates, time, location, etc ... work for your schedule.

Climb Info. Write the climb number, dates of the climb, name of the mountain, and climb leader in the upper left.

3 4

Are you currently enrolled in Basic Climbing Education Program? Look for climbs with “BCEP” in the Grad Emphasis field.

Climbing Education. Include both your Mazama and non-Mazama training here.

5 6

Climbing Experience. Detail your climbing experience, including mountain, route, year, climb leader. You may attach a separate sheet of paper.

Personal Information. Complete this section in its entirety; any medical/physical conditions will be kept confidential.

Signature Required! The standard boilerplate language (read both the front and back). Sign on the front.

7 8 9

Leader Response Card. The applicant needs to fill out the top portion—your name, climb dates, climb number, mountain, and climb leader.

Climb leader addresses are listed on page 11. Mazama members can find climb leader addresses on the member section of the website.

Flip. Flip the card over and fill out the backside. Write YOUR mailing address in the addressee area and attach a stamp.

Mail! Insert the entire card into an envelope, address to the CLIMB LEADER, attach a stamp, and send it via snail mail.

Mount St. Helens has an additional fee due to a permiting system, you may need to include a check. See details on page 11.

APRIL 2015

Altitude Training What is it and How Can it Help You? by Brad Farra & Eric Lubell

ltitude training, what is it and how can it help you? Mont Blanc is 15,781 ft. and was first summited in 17861, at which time it is unlikely that the concept of altitude and its effects on the human body were truly understood. The British set off the “Golden Age of Alpinism” with an outright lust for climbing higher and higher, and with the founding of the Alpine Club in 1857. Since this time, explorers pushing to climb higher than anyone else in the world have recognized that altitude has a profound effect on human physiology. Oxygen available in the air we breathe decreases as altitude increases. This chart shows the approximate percentage of the air that is oxygen at various altitudes2. Altitude ( ft)

Oxygen %

20.9

3,000

18.6

5,000

17.2

8,000

15.4

10,000

14.2

14,000

12.2

20,000

9.7

25,000

8.0

29,000

6.8

There are four ways you can prepare your body for the effects of altitude: 1. Travel to high altitude prior to a scheduled event and acclimate via a prescribed regimen of ascents and descents

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Live at an altitude that is conducive to both training and sleeping at a moderate altitude, high enough to stimulate red blood cell production in the body but low enough so that recovery is not impaired 3. Carry supplemental oxygen for use at high altitudes 4. Train in and/or sleep in an environment that has had altitude levels artificially reduced. For over a century mountaineers have used a climb high—sleep low method for acclimatization. Traveling to our destination and acclimating slowly is time consuming and costly to our professional and personal lives. A well designed plan that considers the amount of time needed for acclimatization, how high you climb during the day, and how low you retreat for sleep and recovery at night is critical for success and avoiding potential high altitude cerebral edema or pulmonary edema. Flagstaff, AZ. Colorado Springs, CO. Mammoth Lakes, CA. Addis Ababa, Ethiopia—what do all of these places have in common? Altitude! Flagstaff is at 6,910 ft., Colorado Springs is at 6,035 ft., Mammoth Lakes is at 7,880 ft., and Addis Ababa is at 7,726 ft. What else do they have in common? They produce high caliber endurance athletes. Flagstaff is where McMillan Running Company trains ultra-runners. Colorado Springs is home to the Olympic Training Center. Mammoth Lakes is becoming a well-known mecca of endurance athletes. Ethiopia consistently produces some of the most competitive marathon runners in the world, including Abebe Bikila, Haile Gebrselassie, and Tiki Gelana. These locations allow people to live and train at an altitude that is conducive to both training and sleeping at a moderate altitude, high enough to

stimulate red blood cell production in the body but low enough so that recovery is not impaired. Carrying supplemental oxygen on a mountaineering expedition is typically reserved for the highest of the high peaks. Everest is the only peak where its use is commonplace. This is expensive and burdensome, and it’s likely porters or Sherpas carry the extra weight of oxygen equipment. Replicating a low oxygen environment is the final way to prepare for a trip to high altitude environments. There are several techniques available to the modern athlete with which to achieve this task. Using today’s technology, this can be accomplished from virtually any location with an electrical infrastructure. Whether you are preparing to tour some Mayan ruins, go on a Denali expedition, run the Pikes Peak Marathon, or climb up Oregon’s highest peak, preparing the body for the physiological challenges of altitude is beneficial. All of the above methods to handle high altitude, except for carrying supplemental oxygen, affect the body in the same basic way. The lack of oxygen triggers the release of Erythropoietin (EPO) and

The author on Mt. Huntington in Alaska. Photo: Jason Stuckey.

the subsequent increase in red blood cell production. The remainder of this article discusses the science behind this fact. Simulating low oxygen environments is the easiest approach to get these physiological benefits, and we will delve into the science behind that as well. EPO is one of the most commonly abused substances found in cycling and its misuse and abuse has led to sanctions on an alarming number of professional cyclists. The World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) defines blood doping as “The misuse of certain techniques and/or substances to increase one’s red blood cell mass, which allows the body to transport more O2 to muscles and therefore increase stamina and performance.”3 Injecting EPO into the body leads to an artificial increase in hemoglobin concentration and blood volume. More blood, more oxygen carrying capacity, better performance. The latter part of that WADA statement is what interests us so much in altitude training because as endurance athletes we train very hard to increase stamina and performance. EPO is a naturally occurring hormone found in the human body and

secreted by the kidneys. Your body only naturally produces a certain level of EPO. However, this natural level can be changed without doping and one factor influencing change is exposure to lower oxygen levels. Physiological effects of altitude on the body are many4 and greatly benefit athletes: ▶▶ Increased natural EPO production, which in turn increases red blood cell mass for delivering oxygen to muscle cells where it is used in energy production. ▶▶ A boost in total blood volume to move oxygen more efficiently through your bloodstream. ▶▶ An increase in V02 max—the maximum amount of oxygen the body can convert to work, giving you more stamina for the long haul. ▶▶ Increased hematocrit levels to provide a greater percentage of cells carrying oxygen. ▶▶ Elevated capillary volume, creating more blood pathways to muscle cells for improved muscle oxygenation. ▶▶ A higher volume of energy producing organelles called mitochondria.

▶▶ An increase in the lungs’ ability to exchange gases efficiently, so that every breath you take more oxygen gets into the bloodstream. Training high and sleeping low is the method of low oxygen exposure that most closely resembles the techniques used by mountaineering expeditions. It is not the only effective method to stimulate the production of EPO by exposure to low oxygen. It is the method that provides the best chance at recovering optimally, because the biggest challenge of sleeping high is not getting adequate recovery. As research continues to build, we are hoping to gain a better understanding on exactly how much oxygen exposure is needed to reach a desired level of acclimatization or provide a minimal stimulus for improved performance. Until then, we will keep training high and making those red blood cells for improved performance. REFERENCES 1. www.summitpost.org/the-1rstascent-of-mont-blanc/850467 2. www.higherpeak.com/altitudechart. html 3. cyclingtips.com.au/2012/11/blooddoping-101/ 4. altitudetraining.com/main/sports/ research/PracticalApproachBurke

Brad Farra is an alpinist, endurance athlete, sports chiropractor, and strength and conditioning coach. He joined the Mazamas in 2008, took Advanced Snow & Ice (ASI) that same year, Advanced Rock (AR) in 2009, and has assisted with those classes ever since. He has lectured for the Basic Climbing Education Program, Intermediate Climbing School, ASI, and AR. Eric Lubell is an endurance athlete and Director of Training Operations at Evolution Healthcare and Fitness. APRIL 2015

Mazama Lodge Outdoor Education Program 2015 pilot a success! by Kati Mayfield

n February we welcomed 100 eager 5th graders to our community through the Mazama Lodge Outdoor Education Program. This program, a partnership with Multnomah Education Service District (MESD) Outdoor School, introduced local kids to the mountain environment through a curriculum which ties directly to their classroom science and math learning objectives. When the Mazamas began looking into creating youth programs, we wondered how to leverage our institutional experience and resources to get kids into the outdoors. Working with schools, we decided, would be a good way to reach a broad and diverse group of kids. So we began conversations with mission-aligned organizations like Friends of Outdoor School (the nonprofit which fundraises and advocates on behalf of outdoor school), which connected us with MESD Outdoor School. We quickly realized that our interests aligned and that our relative areas of expertise were complementary. We could offer the Mazama Lodge as a unique host site; they had motivated staff who wanted to create a robust overnight program for 5th graders. Oregon was the leader in developing the schoollinked outdoor education programs which many states adopted beginning in the 1960s; and MESD Outdoor School is recognized as a national leader to this day. Yet, despite the widespread popularity and success of these programs, public funding has steadily declined in recent decades. In some Oregon counties, outdoor school has been cut entirely; in others (like Multnomah) the traditional 5-day program for 6th graders has been trimmed to 3 days. There is also a substantial gap for 5th graders. Recognizing an opportunity to address this gap, Executive Council approved funding to develop a 5th grade outdoor school curriculum (co-funded by MESD) and launch a pilot which was run by MESD staff and

MAZAMAS

supported by Mazama volunteers. Three schools: Astor, Hayhurst and Peninsula signed up to be our test school partners, and they spent the fall running fundraisers to help their students pay the way. The kids learned a lot, and so did we! The pilot confirmed that there is a demand for this kind of program which helps students build tangible connections to educational concepts. It also reinforced the crucial need to re-engage kids with the outdoors. A number of our students had never been to Mt. Hood before, which is disappointing considering that the mountain is in their own back yard. Thanks to the Mazama

Foundation, MESD and the fundraising efforts of our school partners, we hosted 100 kids this year. In 2016 we want to host 400, and 1,000 in 2017. To do this, we need your help. $155 funds one student for 3 days and 2 nights of programming.

Schools will be responsible for paying that $155 per-pupil cost, which covers room, board and instruction. But because not all schools are able to fundraise, the Mazamas has committed to developing a scholarship fund to cover at least 20% of students. That means $12,400 next year, a number we could easily reach if every Mazama contributed $5. If

every Mazama contributed $10, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be able to fund 20% of kids for the next two years. Please consider what you may be able to do to support this important program; and visit mazamas. org/lodge/outdoor-educationprogram/ to donate and get more information.

Clockwise from upper left: Students learning how to use a compass. Photo: Kati Mayfield. Several students working with an instructor by a roaring fire inside the lodge. Photo: Kati Mayfield. One of the two groups of students with their instructors. Photo: Zak Tollefson APRIL 2015

WHAT’S MISSING FROM THIS PICTURE? (besides the top of the mountain.)

ANSWER: YOU Get in the picture! Pick up MAP 332S – Mount St Helens National Volcanic Monument, brand new for 2015. Waterproof, tear resistant, ultralight, solar powered, and just mapped by Green Trails boots on the ground crews in 2014. Available at select bookstores and all the best outdoor stores.

The Mazama team celebrate their Kilimanjaro climb in Barafu Camp (15,295 ft.) the morning after their success of traversing the summit from Arrow Glacier camp and the Western Breach route. Back row (left to right): David Hamilton, Embark guide Freddie Chikima, Sara Stille, Ardel Frick, Charles Blanke, and Brett Sheppard. Front row (left to right): Laura Guderyahn , Kim Kopowski, and Outing leader Paul Steger. Photo: Paul Steger

Mazama Kilimanjaro Outing Scores Three Successes Summits, Donations, and Fundraising by Eric Hoem

n February, a team of Mazamas led by Paul Steger summited Kilimanjaro, donated three duffels of clothing to porters, and supported a fundraising campaign for cancer research. After a six-day trek following the Lemosho Route into high camp at Arrow Glacier, eight team members ascended the Western Breach route of Kilimanjaro and reached the summit at Urhuru Peak (19,341 ft.) late morning, February 16, 2015. With a snow storm in the forecast, the team elected to forego their plan of camping in the crater and made one push for the summit and quick descent to Barafu Camp in a single, long day. Strong winds, snow and hail greeted them at the summit as they utilized a slim but safe weather window to complete their ascent. As part of the service aspect of their climb, members contributed surplus clothing, boots, and gear to porters who assist teams on Kilimanjaro. Assistant leader, Eric Hoem, carried a duffel of climb clothing to Africa for porters that was donated by Portland resident Narayan Siva. After their climb, team members made additional

donations of two duffels of clothing, boots, and gear. In Moshi, they learned more about appropriate support for porters when they visited the offices of the Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance Project ( for more information, visit: http://www. kiliporters.org/) The third area of success involved two team members who dedicated their climb to fund raising in support of clinical trials for cancer research. Team member Dr. Charles D. Blanke, Knight Cancer Research Center, OHSU, created the fund-raising through his professional organization, the Hope Foundation. Dr. Blanke was supported by fellow doctor and climb team member, Dr. Brett Sheppard. So far, this effort has collected over $109,000 in donations (visit https://thehopefoundation.org/kilimanjaro). In honor of their success, the climb team helped Dr. Blanke unfurl a 10 foot banner with the initials of 200,000 cancer research volunteers, and spread the ashes of a patient with pancreatic cancer, at his familiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; request. Land arrangements for this Outing were made through Embark Adventures, a Portland outfitter, and Mazama team members found their planning, local support, and Tanzanian staff to be excellent (visit: http://embarkadventures.com).

UPCOMING OPPORTUNITIES

MAZAMA LEADERSHIP COHORT: BUILD YOUR OWN PATH ▶▶ Are you interested in learning more about yourself as a leader? Do you know someone who would be a great leader, but doesn’t know where to start? Nominate someone or consider applying yourself for this FREE five-session program designed for those who are passionate about the outdoors and who would like to identify their own leadership capabilities and strengths through opportunities at the Mazamas. ▶▶ How: Nominate a fellow leader, or apply for the cohort yourself, using the form at this link: http:// goo.gl/nmGPgY. Applications are due Monday, May 4.

SPRING TREE PLANTING AROUND MT. HOOD ▶▶ When: April 4 ▶▶ Where: We will meet at the MMC and carpool to the Sandy River Basin/Zigzag Area ▶▶ Why: The Mazamas are committed to becoming a carbon neutral organization and working to help sequester CO2 emissions. We are also committed to being good stewards of the environment, especially the fragile ecosystem around Mt. Hood, where we were founded and continue to organize classes, climbs, and hikes for hundreds of outdoor enthusiasts every year. ▶▶ Sign-up: Send an email to conservation@mazamas.org or call the MMC office at 503-227-2345.

▶▶ When: Kickoff potluck: Mon., May 18; Class 1: Wed., May 20; Class 2: Wed., May 27; Class 3: Mon., June 1; Class 4: Wed., June 3; Capstone Weekend: Saturday– Sunday, June 6–7 ▶▶ Where: Classes are at the MMC, Capstone Weekend is at Mazama Lodge. ▶▶ Learn More: Contact Kati Mayfield at kati@ mazamas.org. The Leadership Cohort promises to be a great time and a wonderful way to connect with your community of outdoor enthusiasts who are interested in exploring the path of leadership.

ELK-KINGS TRAIL TENDING DAY ▶▶ When: April 11 ▶▶ Where: Meet at Beaverton Target (off Hwy. 26 on 185th) at 8 a.m. ▶▶ Why: Leader Rick Pope will be whipping the Elk-King trail back into shape so that spring users have better access. We need your help to cut back encroaching brush and to restore tread. No previous trail tending experience is necessary, but please RSVP so that we can bring the appropriate number of tools. Bring gloves, boots, and layers for any kind of weather. 4 miles, 2,000 ft., Dr 66 miles. ▶▶ Sign-up: Contact Leader, Rick Pope, 503-860-8789

TRAIL SKILLS COLLEGE—FREE ▶▶ When: April 17–19 ▶▶ Where: Cascade Locks ▶▶ What: Every year the Pacific Crest Trails Association and Washington Trails Association partner to bring FREE trail tending workshops, called “Trail Skills College,” to the Pacific Northwest. Sign up for single day courses or join for the whole weekend. ▶▶ Sign-up: www.pcta.org/volunteer/trail-skills-college/columbiacascades/

MAZAMAS

BASIC ROCK SKILLS

Brush up on your basic rock climbing skills! You do not need to be a Mazama member to register for these climbing clinics. ▶▶ Upcoming Dates: April 17, May 20, June 17; 6–9 p.m. ▶▶ Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center ▶▶ Time: 6–9 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $15 per evening clinic. ▶▶ Register: mazamas.org/education-classes/basicrock-skills/ ▶▶ Required Gear: Climbing harness, 3 locking and 2 non-locking carabiners, belay device, climbing helmet, personal protection (sometimes called a personal leash), prusik cord, and rock shoes or climbing boots. You can rent rock shoes and other gear at The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th, Portland).

April Live your Values: COMMUNITY by Kati Mayfield As Mazamas, we believe camaraderie, friendship and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and collaborate with those who share our goals. What defines community? Community is defined in large part by place, and at the Mazamas, our place is the mountains. Born on Mt. Hood, our community remains deeply rooted to it, and to the mountain environments around the world where we play. Every excursion into the mountains reinforces our connection to them. This connection is special in an age when community often occupies virtual space, and causes us to lose our sense of place. Perhaps this is why, despite the diverse professional, religious, and social communities we all identify with, we have also chosen to belong to the Mazamas. In addition to place, rites of passage also define community. Our membership requirement is one of these core rites of passage. So is the spring Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) that initiates hundreds of novice climbers; as well as the annual publishing of the summer climb schedule. Before coming to the Mazamas, many of us would not have conceived of standing on top of mountains. The summit becomes attainable thanks to the skills we learn here, and to the camaraderie of the team accompanying us. As a leader recently told her new BCEP students, “it takes a village to build a climber.” This spring, as you take or assist with classes, begin your annual regimen of training hikes, and plan your adventures, applaud the community of people that has supported your Mazamas journey.

ARRIVING SPRING 2015

FOOTWEAR

ALPINE COLLECTIONS

WA SH I N GTO N D C

DENVER

TORONTO

Join us on Saturday April 11th 11am-6pm to see the launch of our Spring 2015 Collection featuring our new Footwear Line

Filmed in 1924 Directed by Captain LBJ Noel

Portland EcoFilm Festival The Epic Of Everest

Friday, April 10, 7 p.m. at the Hollywood Theatre www.portlandecofilmfest.org Pacific Northwest Film Premiere! In 1924, the third attempt ever undertaken to scale Mount Everest ended with the deaths of two of the era’s finest climbers, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine—sparking an ongoing debate over whether or not they did indeed reach the summit. Accompanying Mallory and Irvine on the upward trek was Captain John Noel, who documented the expedition, filming in brutally harsh conditions with a hand-cranked camera and capturing images of breathtaking beauty and considerable historic significance. His footage is among the earliest filmed records of life in Tibet and features sequences at Phari Dzong (Pagri), Shekar Dzong (Xegar), and Rongbuk monastery. But what resonates still more deeply is Noel’s ability to frame the vulnerability, isolation, and courage of people persevering in one of the world’s harshest landscapes. The Epic of Everest, first released in 1924, makes a triumphant return to the big screen thanks to a stunning restoration by the British Film Institute. The restoration reintroduces the original colored tints and tones, revealing that few images in cinema are as epic—or moving—as a blood-red sunset over the Himalayas. This restoration by the British Film Institute also boasts a newly commissioned score, composed and conducted by Simon Fisher Turner (The Great White Silence) and featuring a haunting combination of electronic music, found sounds, Western and Nepalese instruments, and vocals.

APRIL 2015

20S & 30S

How Will You Choose? There is almost too much to do this month with 20s & 30s! The 20s and 30s Mazamas are thrilled about our spring trips, and we want you to join us! There are always too many beautiful wildflowers and waterfalls to experience in the spring, but we can help you see and do as much as you can! Sign up soon—trips are filling fast—and as always keep tabs on our website for updates to the schedule: mazamas.org/ activities-events/20sand30s If you recently joined the Mazamas, the 20s & 30s are a great group for sharing adventures and meeting people with similar interests. Volunteering is a good way to get more involved, and we are always looking for new hike leaders! SATURDAY, APRIL 4—HIKE: HARDY RIDGE Advance signup required; contact the leader to join this hike.  Loop hike in Beacon Rock State Park, just west of Hamilton Mountain. Ridge-top viewpoint and possibly a few early wildflowers. Hike: 8.1 miles, 2200 feet elevation gain. Difficulty: moderate. Drive: 81 miles RT. Parking permit not required (WA state parks free day). Meet: Gateway Transit Center, SE corner of parking garage, 9 a.m. Leader: Keith Dechant – keith.dechant@ gmail.com MONDAY, APRIL 6—CLIMB NIGHT: CLUBSPORT 7–10 P.M. Join us for indoor rock climbing! We’ll have a supportive and beginner-friendly atmosphere to climb in with your friends and an opportunity to make some new ones. Don’t have a regular belay partner? Come by—we can usually pair you up with someone for the evening. Families are also welcome! $12/person SUNDAY, APRIL 12—HIKE: SWALE CANYON  Advance signup required; contact the leader to join this hike.  You have the

MAZAMAS

chance to hike down into this beautiful, remote canyon visible from Stacker Butte on an old railroad grade at an easy pace. Along the way you’ll pass rocky outcrops, see numerous flowers and perhaps even snakes, deer, and marmots. Bring sunshine AND a raincoat—you have no idea what the weather will be like. Hike: 12 miles, 400 feet elevation gain. Drive 180 miles RT. Hike will be limited to 12 participants. Dogs are welcome but check for ticks! Meet at the southeast corner of Gateway Transit Center at 8 a.m. Leader: Matt Reeder, mareede@gmail.com. WEDNESDAY, APRIL 15—CLIMB NIGHT: PLANET GRANITE 7–10 P.M. Our monthly evening of rock climbing at Planet Granite in the Pearl. $18/person. SUNDAY, APRIL 19—HIKE/CAVING: APE CAVE Trip is now full. Please contact leader to join the wait list.  See website for full details. MONDAY, APRIL 20—PUB NIGHT: BAZI BIERBRASSERIE Join the 20s & 30s Mazamas on the third Monday of the month at 7 p.m. for our roaming Pub Night! This month we’ll be at Bazi Bierbrasserie, 1522 SE 32nd Ave. Come join us for an evening of new friends, adventure planning, and malted beverages! This is also a great time to find out what we’re up to, plan your next adventure, and see what the Mazamas are all about in a more informal atmosphere. Bring your stories and photos from your recent adventures; extra points for pics from Mazama events. How will you find us? Look for the ice axe!

Swale Canyon. Photo: Matt Reeder.

SATURDAY, APRIL 25—ADVENTURE HIKE: CRABTREE LAKE Tucked in a valley northeast of Sweet Home, Crabtree Lake is one of the wildest places in western Oregon. The area features a beautiful meadow, a scenic lake backed by precipitous cliffs and some of the largest and oldest trees in the state. Expect to follow faint and rugged trails, scramble over massive downed trees, and hike off-trail at the whim of the hike leader. Please DO NOT sign up for this hike unless you are comfortable with off-trail hiking and navigation by GPS and maps. As such, this hike will be strictly limited to 8 participants. Time-dependent stop at McDowell County Park for a 2-mile loop past two scenic waterfalls on our way back to Portland. Exploratory. No dogs. Hike: 3.4 miles, 900 feet elevation gain. Drive: 192 miles round-trip. Meet in the large lots just south of Clackamas Town Center Park & Ride at 7:30 a.m. Leader: Matt Reeder, mareede@gmail.com MONDAY, APRIL 27—COMMITTEE MEETING  Would you like to get involved with the 20s & 30s Mazamas? We are looking for volunteers! We invite everyone to come join our monthly committee meeting at 6:30pm at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC). We will review the past month’s activities and plan the future month. We love guests at our meetings and we often go out for libations afterwards at the nearby Horse Brass.

CLASSIC MAZAMAS

Friends, Hiking & Fun For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. (Formerly known as Old Timers.) LEADING EVENTS IN MAY If you are interested in leading an event in May, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert at gilbertrosemarie@centurylink. net or 503-762-2357, Dick Miller at 503-590-3598, or Lanning Russell at lanning616@gmail. com or 503-775-1164 by April 12 for inclusion in the May Bulletin. MON. APR. 6: DOG MOUNTAIN LOOP HIKE If interested, please email David at David.R.Christopher@ gmail.com. WED. APRIL 15: PREPROGRAM SOCIAL AND VEGIE SNACK SHARING 6:15 p.m. at the MMC. Meet upstairs, Room 3, for tea, coffee, and healthy veggie snacks before Bill Sullivan presents his new book on hiking Eastern Oregon at 7 p.m. Please bring a healthy veggie snack and recipe to share.

THURS, APR. 16: LINNTON TRAIL IN FOREST PARK OUT/BACK HIKE Leader: Dick Miller. This is perhaps the shortest hike you will ever ﬁnd offered by the Classic Mazamas. But it is beautiful. Located near the westerly end of the park, the trail was reconstructed and opened by a small group of Mazama Trail Tenders in 2004 after it was washed out for many years. It begins on Highway 30 near the old town of Linnton and goes uphill for one-half mile to a ﬁrelane which connects to other trails. One feature of the trail is a reinforced-concrete footbridge over Abbey Creek, built by the Mazamas, which should withstand 500-year floods. Meet at the trailhead at 10:30 a.m. It is at a bus-stop turnout on Highway 30, about 300 yards east of l07th Ave. Parking is limited, so it is better to park in Linnton, then cross the highway at the light at 107th, and hike back to the trailhead. Or even better, you can take Tri-Met bus No. l6 from downtown at Oak Street to the stop at l07th. Buses run about every 30 minutes and the ride takes about 45 minutes. Allow a few minutes for the short walk to the trailhead. The hike will be slow-paced. When we return, those who wish will have lunch at the Decoy Cafe on the corner of 107th and Highway 30. If you have any questions, give Dick a call at 503-590-3598.

SEPT.28–OCT. 2. CIRCLE SOUTH SISTER Deadline to indicate interest: May 1

▶▶ Begin around noon after driving from PDX ▶▶ Pole Creek trailhead to Camp Lake: 7.4 miles (ascent/descent not recorded) ▶▶ Camp Lake to Hinton Creek area: 7.8 miles, 723 ft. ascent/1,610 ft. descent* ▶▶ Hinton Creek to Moraine Lake: 6.02 miles 1,115 ft. ascent/586 ft. descent* ▶▶ Moraine Lake to Park Meadow: 8.24 miles, 1,192 ft. ascent/1,543 ft. descent* ▶▶ Park Meadow to Pole Creek: 7.18 miles, 402 ft. ascent/1,044 ft. descent* ▶▶ Arrive at trailhead around 1 p.m. to drive home *This is total number of feet ascended and descended, i.e. as trail goes up and down (as much as a Garmin GPS can accomplish this task). Note: The planned pace is steady and leisurely, not fast. If you are a fast hiker, you won’t enjoy going on this trip. If you decide to join us, please send me some background information regarding your backpacking experience. David R. Christopher • Email: david.r.christopher@gmail.com • Snail Mail: 14600 SE Aldridge Road, Portland, OR, 97086

APRIL 2015

Whether you are a life-long Mazama member, currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. Are you ready to join? Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the oldest mountaineering organizations in the country here: mazamas.org/join

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DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes & outings.

DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms.

Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood along with great member rates.

INFORMATION Access to special member pages on the Mazama website.

Receive free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters.

Gain full access to the world-class 5,000-volume mountaineering LIBRARY.

AND MORE!

This MAGAZINE , filled with activities events, and articles delivered to your door monthly.

Icebreaker, Mountain Hardwear, The Mountain Shop, Mountaineers Books, Next Adventure, Oregon Mountain Community, Portland Rock Gym, Prana Portland, Redpoint Climber’s Supply, Rock & Ice Magazine, Sharp End Books, Trail Butter, US Outdoor Store

What’s the best part of the Mazamas? Why the people of course! Ally Imbody, a veteran of the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program and Advanced Rock, enjoys a birthday cupcake on the summit of Mt. Hood. Photo: John Skeen.

ASI 2015

Do you want to climb ice? How about the north face of mount anything? Sure you do. And not like some gripped poseur, but like a boss! Anyone can top rope a frozen waterfall. You want more: advanced rope work and anchor-building skills, highangle alpine travel techniques, advanced crevasse-rescue technique, small team high angle rescue skills, and yes, beginning ice climbing technique. Sign up for Advanced Snow and Ice 2015. Application open: April 20–May 20. See mazamas.org/educationclasses/advanced-snow-and-ice/ for details.

Photo: Stephanie Spence explores the Lower Coleman Glacier on Mt. Baker during an ASI field session. Photo: Tyler Bax.

MAZAMAS

APRIL 2015

ADVENTURE TRAVEL— FOREIGN & DOMESTIC

Go Exploring in 2015! Enjoy affordable adventure travel with qualified trip leaders this summer. OLYMPICS NATIONAL PARK HIKING June 20–27: Full—Alternates Only

See the December 2014 Mazama Bulletin for full details.

HIKING NORWAY’S WESTERN FJORDLAND July 22–Aug. 2: Full—Waiting List

See the December 2014 Mazama Bulletin for full details.

CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING July 11–27

Nestled near the border of Switzerland, Italy, and France, lies the birthplace of alpine mountaineering, Chamonix, France. We’ll be there during the peak alpine climbing season. This will be a strenuous outing with daily climbing opportunities. Participants should be Mazama Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) graduates or equivalent (Advanced school graduates or equivalent preferred). Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+. Participants should have a good fitness level as a large portion of the alpine climbs start at 11,000 feet. Get full details on the website. Contact leader Lee Davis, lee@mazamas.org or assistant leader, Lisa Brady, pdxlisa@gmail. com, for more information.

OREGON COAST HIKING Aug. 10–16

Based out of South Beach State Park, we will hike approximately 60 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Lincoln Beach. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of the trail. Other hikes in the area may also be offered. Hikers wanting a break can also visit local attractions such as the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Participants are responsible for making their own transportation, lodging/camping

MAZAMAS

arrangements, and meals, and can come for fewer than seven days if they wish. Outing cost will range from $90–$145 depending on the number of participants. A $100 deposit is required with sign-up by July 15, 2015. (Participants should make site reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at South Beach SP.) Contact leader Joe Whittington, joewhittington@gmail.com , or assistant leader Skip Smith, bs_as3457@yahoo.com, for more details.

JOHN MUIR TRAIL TREK

Aug. 28–Sep. 10: Full—Alternates Only

Participants should be able to carry a backpack with five day’s food and all gear. Those climbing Mt. Athabasca should have at least BCEP or ICS level training and have climbed Mt. Hood or similar glaciated peaks. Costs: Estimated $410 to $510 for group size of 6 to12 (including leaders). Camping and Mazama fees included. Participants responsible for transportation, food, park entry costs. Fees in excess of actual campsites’ cost will be refunded. A $100 deposit is due June 15, 2015. For more information, contact leader Bob Breivogel: breivog@teleport.com.

See the January 2015 Mazama Bulletin or our website for full details.

CANADIAN ROCKIES HIKING AND CLIMBING Dates: Aug. 8-22, 2015

Join us on a 14-day camping, hiking, backpacking, and climbing outing to the Canadian Rockies. We will visit Banff, Jasper, and Mt. Assiniboine Parks. We will start in Banff with four days of scenic hiking around Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and the mountains above the town itself. We may do some easy scramble peaks. The group will car camp in one of Banff National Park’s campgrounds. Next, we explore Mt. Assiniboine Provincial Park, south of Banff, for five days. We will backpack 17 miles into lovely Lake Magog, then day hike beneath Matterhorn-like Mt Assiniboine in verdant flower-filled meadows. Depending on availability, we may be able to stay at primitive cabins or otherwise tent camp. Next we travel north on the Ice Fields Parkway to Mt. Athabasca. We have the option to climb this via a B-level glacier route. Optionally, there is day hiking in the area for those not wanting to climb. We move farther to Jasper National Park for two more days of day hikes.

Want to go on an outing? Contact the

leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers— seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club— outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club— americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.”

MAZAMA AFFILIATE OUTINGS HUT-TO-HUT TRAVERSE OF THE TRANSYLVANIAN ALPS IN ROMANIA July 31–Aug. 9, 2015

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TREKKING TOUR Oct. 26–Nov. 13, 2015

The coolest place you never knew you wanted to go! In partnership with Mountain Hiking Holidays, join us on a challenging and memorable “hut to hut” adventure in the high Carpathians of central Romania, also known as the Transylvanian Alps. Complete an exciting multi-day traverse along the main ridge of the Făgăraş Mountains—one of the longest continuous high mountain traverses in Europe. The traverse will take you over Romania’s three highest peaks (Moldoveanu, 8,350 feet; Negoiu, 8,317 feet; and Viştea Mare, 8,291 feet). Round out your Romania adventure with visits to the splendid medieval town of Sighisoara (a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site), and a sampling of Transylvania’s treasury of castles, monasteries, and fortified Saxon churches. Trip price: $3,595. More details: http:// www.mountainhikingholidays.com/romania_hut-to-hut.htm. Contact: info@mountainhikingholidays.com

There will be an informational meeting at the MMC on May 13 at 6:30 p.m. This will be a 19-day trip, fully supported by local guides and porters, with 13 days of trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary, the very heart of the amazing Annapurna Massif, home to more than 30 individual peaks, some over 26,000 ft. in elevation. We will visit numerous Garung villages along the way and stay overnight at two of the massif ’s many climbing base camps, including Machhapuchhre (summit elevation 22,943 ft.) at 12,139 ft. and Annapurna South (summit elevation 23,684 ft.) at 13,550 ft. The remaining days will be available to explore on our own in exotic and chaotic Kathmandu and the charming, lakeside city of Pokhara—the two largest population centers in Nepal. The cost is $2,995. This is a chance to visit one of the highest and densest concentrations of mountain peaks anywhere in the world. This is a true adventure travel bargain. Led by Mazama Jim Ronning.

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT. .

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Robert Joy Insurance Agency rjoy@farmersagent.com ph: 503.643.9518 fax: 503.643.9519

Used, rare, collectible mountaineering books FOR SALE. For current 600 item list EMAIL order@jpmountainbooks.com. For wants & old issues of Mazama & AAJ CALL 503-246-2752. Informative website jpmountainbooks.com HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.

Sunny Freeman sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes

Your Mazama Realtor

Rehabilitation and Prevention of Rock Climbing, Mountaineering & Hiking Injuries Lynne Pedersen, DPT, Mazama Member Since 2006 APRIL 2015

MAZAMA LODGE

Summer at the Lodge Numerous upcoming opportunies to get involved at Mazama Lodge. Outside of some snow from Dec. 27–mid-January, this has been a disappointing winter season. With the new Outdoor Program operated by the Multnomah County Educational Service District during the end of February, we were still seeing some heavy lodge use, but sadly very little snow. You never know—maybe April will bring us great snow! If you are looking for some solitude, we have some availability during the month of April on Thursday, Friday, and Sunday nights. All Saturdays in April, with the exception of April 4, are booked for BCEP. THE LODGE IS HIRING FOR THE SUMMER If you like the idea of spending the summer sleeping in a tent at Mazama Lodge, getting up at 4:30 a.m., washing lots of dishes, and general work around the lodge, this might be the job for you! All meals are provided and we promise you a memorable summer experience. Please send your resume

Luggage for 80 people arriving all at once! Photo: Charles Barker.

MAZAMAS

with references to lodge@ mazamas.org (minimum age: 16 years old). Did we say, “no experience necessary?!” SPRING WORK PARTY, MAY 17, 9 A.M.–3 P.M. The annual work party will be in May this year due to the lack of snow. 35TH ANNIVERSARY OF ERUPTION OF MOUNT ST. HELENS, SUNDAY, MAY 17 6–7 P.M. Join Lodge Chairman Bob Stayton as he shares with us some amazing memories and photos of Spirit Lake prior to the St. Helens eruption in 1980. Bob has a long history as a camp counselor and board member of the old YMCA camp on the shore of Spirit Lake.

MAZAMA FAMILIES

Families Climb Get outside and climb with your entire family. The Families Committee has been busy organizing family-friendly climbing for the summer. Kids and their parents can apply for any Mazama Climbs, but some climbs are designated as Family Climbs (marked by an “F” on the schedule) to indicate they are climbs geared towards the pace of kids. Here are some guidelines for kids on Mazama Climbs: ▶▶ All kids 14 and under climb free. At the MMC ask for a kid climb card to receive one at no charge. ▶▶ All kids must be accompanied by a responsible adult—a parent, guardian, grandparent, or a friend who has been granted permission by a parent. ▶▶ Kids and their parents need to have the required skills and experience to be on the climb. Mazama Families hikes, backpacks, and classes are a great way to get these skills and experience! Some of the Family climbs will be listed in the April Bulletin and others will appear later, but all of the Family climbs will be listed on the online summer climb schedule and cross-promoted on the Families webpage for easy reference (at mazamafamilies.org). We are also organizing outdoor rock climbing opportunities through the summer at locations within an hour or two of Portland such as Rooster Rock, Broughton Bluffs, French’s Dome, and more. A combination of evening outings and weekend opportunities will be offered, along with food and time to play and enjoy the summer! Families Conditioning hikes and backpacks are all being listed at our webpage on an ongoing basis. We hope to see you and your kids on a climb this summer!

UPCOMING ACTIVITIES SATURDAY, APR. 4—HIKE: DRY CREEK FALLS VIA HERMAN CREEK This hike starts just east of Cascade Locks, Ore. From Mazama hike leader Matt Reeder (2013): Dry Creek Falls is one of the quietest waterfalls in the Columbia River Gorge accessible by trail ... Along the way you’ll cross a fantastic bridge over Herman Creek, pass some fascinating rock pinnacles, cross a talus slope with views across the Columbia River to Table Mountain and check out a bonus waterfall deep in a rock cleft (p. 57). Eric Einspruch, hike leader. 8 miles,

Kids Climbing South Sister. Photo: Bob Murphy

1,000 ft. elevation gain, intended for ~9 year olds but all are welcome who can complete the hike in 6 hours, including parents backpacking their kids by permission of the leader. Meeting time and location will be sent to applicants. $2 person/$5 max per family. Please register at tinyurl.com/ DC-4-4-2015. FRIDAY TO SUNDAY, APR. 10-12—CAMPOUT: COTTONWOOD CANYON STATE PARK Join us for a fun weekend camping in the high desert with other families at Oregon’s newest state park, Cottonwood Canyon. It’s a short 2 hour drive east of Portland, and the weather is sure to be finer than here! Enjoy hiking and fishing in the John Day River and just generally enjoying the great outdoors. Explore more at tinyurl.com/Cottonwood-info. On Saturday, April 11, Bill Stein will lead an 8.6 mile round-trip hike on the downstream Pinnacles Trail at a 2 mph pace. On Sunday morning, April 12, Bill Stein will lead a 3-mile round-trip hike on the upstream Hard Stone Trail at a 1.5 mph pace. Only $20 per family for the weekend, and there are no extra fees for the optional hikes. Laura Rumford, campout host. All are welcome. Meeting time and

location will be sent to applicants. $20 per family. Please register at tinyurl. com/Cottonwood-Apr-2015. Signup deadline is Apr. 8! SUNDAY, MAY 17—HIKE: BALD BUTTE From Mazama hike leader Matt Reeder (2013): Very similar in character to Dog Mountain ... the trail to Bald Butte climbs up gorgeous open meadows to a windy summit with spectacular wildflower displays in May and June (p. 63). This hike differs from Dog Mountain in that it trades views of the Columbia River Gorge for views of Mts. Hood, St. Helens, Adams, and Rainier. It also has fewer hikers than on Dog Mountain. Eric Einspruch, hike leader. 8.4 miles, 2,400 ft. elevation gain, intended for ~9 year olds but all are welcome who can complete the hike in 6-7 hours, including parents backpacking their kids by permission of the leader. Meeting time and location will be sent to applicants. $2 per person, $5 max per family. Register at tinyurl.com/ BB-5-17-2015. For information on more upcoming events visit our webpage under “activities + events” on www.mazamas. org. To join our email list please drop us a line at families@mazamas.org. APRIL 2015

Re-Bolting Rock Replacing Hardware on Classic Cliffs by Micah Klesick

steady drizzle of rain fell on Frenchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dome as eight volunteers from the Portland Vicinity Re-bolting Effort (PVRE) made their way to the base of the rock carrying drills, a bag of stainless steel bolts, ascenders, ropes and other such mountaineering equipment. Climbing wet rock is no easy task, but these dedicated volunteers ascended several routes to reach the top, and set up fixed lines for rappelling. I assigned a route to each climber that had a drill, and they began to remove the old bolts, and then replace them with new bolts from the American Safe Climbing Association.

One of the volunteers, Erik, began rappelling down the dripping wet rock to the next bolt below him on Alpha Centauri, a 5.8 rock climb at Frenchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. He clipped into the bolt and, somewhat to his surprise, it moved. Erik began to work the bolt back and forth, and soon managed to pull the entire hanger and wedge bolt out of the rock. It was rusty, 3.5" long, 3/8", non-stainless steel, and slightly bent. Erik clipped the bolt to his harness, and began using a hammer to

test the rock around the bolt hole. Determining that the bolt needed a new location, he found a solid spot, and quickly drilled a new hole, this time placing a 1/2" diameter, stainless steel bolt, provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). Erik had already replaced the old and rusty anchor with new bolts, and added rappel rings to the anchor to make it safer and easier for climbers to retrieve their rope when finished climbing. Alpha Centauri was just one of the many climbs that we recently re-bolted, replacing 20-year-old, rusty, and unsafe bolts with new stainless

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steel bolts. After six hours, a total of 36 dangerous bolts had been removed from 10 routes. We replaced them with new and safe hardware including rap rings, new anchors, and new lead bolts where needed. The rappel and belay stations at the top of the Dome had also been replaced (previously 1/4" bolts). We pulled several bolts out by hand, and found multiple cracked hangers. When many of the routes in the Portland area were developed, at classic climbing areas like French’s Dome, Broughton’s Bluff, Carver, Beacon Rock, and other cliffs, there were not many options for bolts. The bolts and hangers were non-stainless steel, and they rusted very quickly. Due to the wet weather in the Gorge, a non-stainless bolt can have a life expectancy of only 5-6 years (though many will last longer than that). Many of these original bolts are now over 20 years old, and there is a high risk that more

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Ueli Steck Mönch summit, Photo: Jon Griffith

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bolts will begin to fail over the next few years. Our goal is to replace all rusted bolts, replace anchors as needed, add rap rings to routes that could benefit from them, and ensure that an injury to a climber will not be due to a bolt breaking or pulling out of the wall. We do not move bolts, or add bolts to an existing climb, unless it is at the request or permission of the FA ( first ascent) party. The bolts are being replaced with stainless steel, 1/2" x 23/4" Powers bolts. These bolts are rated for approximately 10,000 pounds, and have a life expectancy of 50–100 years in extremely wet climates. Additionally, they can also be removed and replaced when that time comes. Plans are currently in place to re-bolt dozens of routes at Broughton’s Bluff, as well as Carver and a necessary route at Beacon Rock. PVRE is run entirely by volunteers, and is supported by the Mazamas, Access Fund, and ASCA. We are always looking for more people to get involved with re-bolting, and with donations for purchasing bolts and hardware. If you wish to be involved, please contact Micah Klesick (mklesick@gmail.com) or Adam Baylor (adam@mazamams.org) for more info. Or on Facebook (Portland Vicinity Re-Bolting Effort) Micah Klesick is a 23-year-old firefighter/EMT for the City of Vancouver and is an avid rock climber who spends most of his days off work either climbing or training for climbing. He is passionate about route development and re-bolting, and ensuring that climbers have safe routes to climb on for years to come.

APRIL 2015

Mt. Stuart’s West Ridge Bragging Rights at 9,415 feet by Barry Maletzky

o you’d like to impress your friends with a 5th-class route but the west and east ridges of Forbidden look a bit scary and the vertical walls of Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires appear too intimidating. You should really consider what looks like a heroic 5th-class adventure but turns out to be mostly 3rd- to- easy 5th-class scrambling: the West Ridge of Mt. Stuart. Sure, you’ve climbed the Cascadian or Uhlrich’s Couloirs and summitted Stuart the easy ways, but the West Ridge is a prize few BCEP students would attempt; to boast that you’ve mastered it could gain you some credit among those who’ve merely scrambled its southern couloirs, scanned it through binoculars, or seen it in photos, where it appears far more treacherous than it actually turns out to be. Stuart is a monster of a mountain and its truly technical north face ice and higher-5th-class rock routes place those who climb them in the province of the elite among us, which leaves me completely out of the picture. But the West Ridge only looks menacing, often more symbolic than substantial. If the technical north face climbs are pouncing leopards and the southern couloirs your lazy housecat napping in the sun, the West Ridge is at least a mountain lion, silent and often hidden, but always lurking and quiet enough to approach within feet without noticing its presence. To reach the West Ridge, proceed about 5 miles past Cle Elum on I-90, then exit onto Highway 970 and travel about 6 miles to the Teanaway Road and travel 23 miles on this at-times rough byway to its end and the beginning of the Ingalls Lake Trail. This gem travels woods at first, with the tallest firs and spruces seeming to scratch the sky. But soon the trail emerges into glorious flower-filled meadows, traverses Ingall’s Pass, then soon drops you into a turquoise basin filled with the shimmering waters of Ingall’s Lake, which not only offers towering views of the southwest aspect of Stuart’s granite faces and gullies, but a chance at a chilly dip if you’re so inclined and have better circulation than I. A nicer place to camp amongst these eastern outposts of the North Cascades would be hard to find. At evening tide, mystical vibrations almost seem to whisper across the waters, urging you to accept the challenge of a technical ascent. From here, do not despair if the West Ridge appears frighteningly jagged (which it is) as you need to keep in mind its saving grace: It, and all of Stuart, are composed not of the tottering black basalt so loose it sometimes feels like you’re trying to climb an overhanging sand dune, but of bright white granite, solid as…well, a rock. Pass along the eastern shore of the lake and ascend to Stuart Pass and the beginning of the actual climbing route. Nothing too hard here at first; just some

MAZAMAS

Far left: A view of the West Ridge of Mt. Stuart from afar. Center: Climbers on the West Ridge route. Photos: Bob Breivogel.

gratifying 3rd-class scrambling at the speed of thought, and this amongst giant blocks which pleasantly do not move much when you hold onto them. Soon, however, the ridge narrows (why do they always do that?) but easy escapes north or south provide decent holds, with occasional 4th-class moves required to keep you alert. There are the usual grassy slopes and ledges, which eventually lead around a corner to a stupendous sight: Long John Tower, at about 8,700 feet. Its name may come from some ancient pirate and its shape may look more like a hedgehog standing on its back two feet than a tottering tower but it does accentuate the feeling that you are in the midst of seriously rocky terrain.

Fortunately, the way here is clear: keep traversing south, crossing ridges and those persistent gullies, occasionally leaving the ridge proper when the crest itself seems too menacing, until you achieve the West Ridge Notch. Here, the least fearsome course is to stay on the ridge’s south side for about 60 feet until you can re-gain the crest itself. It is at this spot that one may well encounter easy 5th-class but stable rock with solid foot and hand holds, until a ledge system brings the climber to one last lie-back in a crack system and then, thankfully, the bungalow-size but easy summit blocks. Here, offering thanks to the rock gods and treats to the leader, the entire panoply of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness splays out at your feet. Descent is often down the Cascadian or Uhlrich’s Couloirs but this entails a steep climb back to the lake. It is possible, however, to find adequate rappel stations so as to reverse your course and avoid any unnecessary ascending, one of the foundations upon which my own climbing career has been built. So try this jewel of an alpine ascent, quite within the capabilities of the average Mazama B climber yet one which will test your skills as well as sharpen your appetite for even tougher routes in the future. Now, whenever you look back at Stuart, visible from so many of our other great peaks and the unchallenged emperor of Washington’s Alpine Lakes, you can justifiably boast about climbing a “really tough technical route” and be almost honest about it! Just hope your audience is either in such a state of blissful ignorance that facts about Stuart’s challenges are irrelevant or that they are in such a state of inebriation it wouldn’t matter much anyway.

CLIMB DETAILS: ▶▶ Peak: Mt. Stuart ▶▶ Location: Washington, Central Cascades, Chelan County ▶▶ Elevation: 9,415 ft. ▶▶ Vertical gain from trailhead: Appx. 5,800 ft. ▶▶ Route Options: Cascadian Couloir (easiest), Ulrich’s Couloir, West Ridge, Stuart Glacier, North Ridge, Ice Cliff Glacier (these are the most frequently climbed routes; there are more options) ▶▶ Minimum Skills Required: Scrambling, route-finding, snow climbing of less than 35 degrees. ▶▶ Drive time from Portland: Appx. 5 hours. ▶▶ Duration: Typically done as a two or three day climb. ▶▶ First Ascent: Most probable first ascent was by Samuel S. Gannett of the USGS in 1895. ▶▶ History: Named in 1853 by Captain George B. McClellan, during scouting for the Pacific Railroad Survey, for his best friend, Jimmie Stuart, who died during a military mission. ▶▶ Resources: Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume !: Columbia River to Stevens Pass, by Fred Beckey.

APRIL 2015

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS

Last Call for Evening Programs Wednesday Programs begin at 7 p.m., and are free and open to Mazamas and the general public. April

We do appreciate a voluntary contribution at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: Nancy Bentley (Co-chair), John Leary (Co-chair), Dyanne Foster, Ben Jones, Sharon Leary, and Gail O’Neill.

TIBET AND CORSICA—April 1

Eugene Lewins goes to Tibet’s most sacred mountain and Corsica’s hardest long distance trek. Two outdoor adventures apparently so different, and yet sharing the experience of traditional cultures holding onto their values as they meet the modern world.

April

MT. ST. HELENS AND THE MT. MARGRET BACKCOUNTRY—April 8

From summers at Spirit Lake Boy Scout Camp in the 1950s to guiding climbs, hikes, and backpacks in the 2000s, Joe Whittington has a long history and intimate familiarity with Mt. St. Helens. While Mount St. Helens is well known, the surrounding area, especially the Mt. Margaret Backcountry, is a unique and spectacular place. Joe will share photographs, stories and recommendations from his 50+ years of experiencing Mt. St. Helens.

NEW HIKES IN EASTERN OREGON—April 15

Bill Sullivan takes us on a slide show tour of a dozen new trails he discovered while researching the new (third) edition of his book, 100 Hikes/Travel Guide: Eastern Oregon. Discover a colorful badlands on the Owyhee River, a new wilderness with cactus flowers on the John Day, a viewpoint hike to a ranch at the east end of the Columbia Gorge, and explore a half a dozen little known hot springs.

April

HONORARY MAZAMA MEMBER NOMINATIONS SOUGHT

Honorary members are those persons who, in the words of the Mazama bylaws, “have rendered distinguished service to the Mazamas or who are eminent for achievement over a period of not less than ten years in climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research or outdoor activities.” They are not required to pay dues, but do have all other rights and privileges of membership. Any Mazama member may nominate an Honorary member candidate. A selection committee made up of the chairpersons of all standing committees will consider qualifications for all the proposed candidates against the criteria, make a selection, and then send their selection on to the Executive Council for ratification. To assist the selection committee and the Executive Council in making an informed choice, nominations must be accompanied by a statement detailing a candidate’s qualifications. Please submit nominations to Mazama Secretary John Rettig, johnbrettig@yahoo.com, by April 30.

MAZAMAS

MEMBERSHIP REPORT

OBITUARIES

HANNAH GAGE HASELTON MAY March 30, 1911–Feb. 2, 2015

Hannah Gage Haselton May passed away on Feb. 2, 2015 at the age of 103. Prior to entering hospice care, Hannah led a weekly writing group at Terwilliger Plaza, where she resided since 1999, and was engaged in many other activities over the years. On the occasion of their 100th birthday in 2011, she and her twin sister, Elizabeth Webb, were featured in an Oregonian article in which Hannah credited their long lives to the “salubrious air” of their childhood home near Underwood, Wash. In 1964, following the death of her husband, Hannah joined the Mazamas. She achieved her 50-year membership in 2014. She took great pride and joy in climbing Mt. Hood and hiked extensively throughout the Northwest. According to our records, Hannah was the oldest Mazama member when she died. For more details, go to mazamaobits.blogspot.com.

Welcome New Mazamas! Nicholas Beyer—Mt. Hood Larry Buzan—Mt. Hood Jessica Driver—Mt. St. Helens Gabriel Chait—Pukarahu, Peru Hapas Gabai—Mt. Adams Janet Gerding-Conklin—Mt. Hood Kate Harbour—South Sister David Holton—Punta Rossa, IT Adam Hunter—Mt. Thielsen Bob Kaminski—North Sister Thomas Kiley—Mt. Adams

Deceased: Ralph Bunnell, Hannah Gage Haselton May

New

RALPH LEE BUNNELL

Sep. 6, 1923–Jan. 20, 2015

Jerry Levy—Mt. Rainer Tory Marsh—Mt. Hood Carrie Merrill—Mt. St. Helens Ryan O’Connell—Mt. Adams John Palmer—Mt. Hood John Pearson—Mt. Hood Anna Ryan—Mt. Rainier Theodore Sindzinski—Mt. St. Helens Bradley Takahashi—Mt. St. Helens Christine Walbrun—Mt. Adams Linda Zumwalt—Mt. St. Helens

Reinstated

Deceased

Membership Feb. 28, 2014

3,189

Feb. 28, 2015

3,289

Ralph Lee Bunnell was born in Portland on August 6, 1923 to Albert and Grace Bunnell. He was predeceased by brothers Albert and Phillip and sister Bertha. Married to Helen Janes in 1967, she passed away in 1984. Ralph attended and graduated from SMU and the University of Oregon. Ralph served his country during World War II in the Navy. Ralph was a long time member of the Mazamas (he joined in 1958), Toastmasters and a world traveler. He was an Electrical Engineer for the Bonneville Power Administration. Ralph is survived by brother Preston, nephew Albert, Niece Chandelle and niece Lisa Janes-McNabb. If you learn of the death of a Mazama member, please inform the office so we can acknowledge their passing in the Bulletin and on our blog. You can use the form here: mazamas.org/get-involved/contact-infoupdate/ or send an email to sarah@mazamas.org. Please share as many details of their Mazama life as possible.

503.684.9698

APRIL 2015

BOOK REVIEW

Denali’s Howl The Deadliest Climbing Disaster on America’s Wildest Peak by Ken DuBois

ith Denali’s Howl Andy Hall approaches his subject like a crime procedural, but he gives the story heart as well. Though the fate of the 1967 Wilcox party on Denali is spelled out in the subtitle, and quantified in the book’s intro, there is plenty to learn from Hall’s reporting, and still much that will never be known. Hall diligently leaves a trail of clues for us to follow—dozens of possible reasons for the disaster—but one overarching fact is clear: the 12 members of the Wilcox party climbed into a freak storm on Denali, and found themselves at the collision point of two massive pressure systems spinning in from opposite sides of the world. No one expected subzero temps and winds over a 100 miles an hour in mid-July, and no one imagined it could last for 11 days. It’s hard to find fault in the talented team. Joe Wilcox of Provo, Utah, a twentyfour-year-old mathematics graduate student, had made more than 50 ascents above 10,000 feet and was a rescue team leader on Mt. Rainier. Other members of the team, also climbing and safety experts, included Mark McLaughlin and Jerry Clark from Eugene and Hank Janes from Portland. At a time when the climbing community was much smaller, it was not unusual to assemble a team of virtual strangers, Hall explains, and the Wilcox party was no exception. But they had in common an almost military approach to their work—disinterested in personal relationships, but intensely committed to functioning as a team. They also had in common a determination to persevere when things

MAZAMAS

got rough, and it was rough from the start. As they moved their supplies from one lower base camp to the next, the group was soaked by rainstorms that continued for days. By the time they reached the lower glaciers, tempers were wearing thin and divisions forming as the men launched into heated arguments about technique and equipment. But the group was in agreement when Wilcox decided to jettison weighty supplies: a stove, shovel handles, and ice saws. Hall calls this “a staggering mistake,” but based on his later description of the havoc at the top, it’s hard to imagine that any of it would have helped at all. The worsening of the situation comes through eerily in transcripts of radio communications the climbers had with rangers below at Mt. McKinley National Park. One conversation captures the moment—a turning point in the expedition—when they realized that markers staked by previous climbers had mostly been blown away: Ranger Gordon Haber: This is KHD 6990 Eielson. Go ahead, Unit One. Jerry Clark: Gordy, we’ve got real problems up here. Do you have any arrangements to contact Unit Two? Haber: I tried them a little while ago and couldn’t get an answer.… What’s the problem? Clark: Well, this route is not well wanded at all. We’ve lost the wands. We’re just floundering around.…we think we’re pretty close to the summit, but uh, we can’t tell. Visibility is about three hundred feet….We’re not even sure we’re on the summit ridge yet. Days later, the rescue party is shocked by what they find at 17,900 feet, site of the

last Wilcox camp before the 20,320-foot summit. But the scene is as fascinating as it is macabre: once-powerful climbers now suspended forever in lifelike poses, their final effort captured like the remains at Pompeii. And while the descriptions may disgust some readers, the author is consistently informative; if he’s going to share with us precisely what the climbers wore on their feet (eight layers), and their preferred type of climbing rope (polypropylene water ski rope), we can expect the unsavory facts as well. Certainly the survivors he interviewed can’t forget them. As if to justify his obsessive attention to detail, the author explains upfront that this is personal. Hall was five years old when the Wilcox disaster occurred, and the son of a Mt. McKinley park supervisor, and he remembers well the somber mood of the grown-ups as they discussed the tragedy occurring above. The compelling book he’s written brings the author full-circle from the moment when he first conceived the power of the mountain looming over him, the night when his father explained simply, “There was a bad storm, kiddo.” Hall, A. Denali’s Howl: The Deadliest Climbing Disaster on America’s Wildest Peak. New York, New York: Dutton. 2014.

$20 members

$30 non members

Purchase your “application to climb” card today. ▶▶ Drop by the MMC and purchase in person. ▶▶ 2. Order online: tinyurl.com/BuyMazClimbCard

TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE

Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open

to members and non-members alike. Contact Trail Trips Committee co-chair Terry Lawson at 503-819-9250 with any questions. To lead a hike in May, log on to https:// mazamas2.org. CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR NEW HIKES & UPDATES Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas.org/ activities-events/hikeschedule/ for updates! 20S & 30S MAZAMAS ARE ALSO HIKING Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/ activities-events/20sand30s WILDERNESS LIMITS Note: “Wilderness – Limit 12” means the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area, and the number of participants is limited to 12, including the leader. MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS MEETUP Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and to receive reminders of hikes you have RSVP’d for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips has a number of hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at meetup.com/mazamahiking/.

MAZAMAS

HK B2 Apr 01 (Wed) Herman Creek (Slide Creek Falls). Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@ teleport.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Wooded hike along Herman Creek. Many small falls, creeks, and unique viewpoints. Depending on weather expect some slippery stream crossings. Poles highly recommended. 10.8 miles 1,900 ft. Dr. 86 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Apr 04 (Sat) Cook Hill. Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Cook Hill is close to Dog Mountain, and doesn’t have the crowds. We will do an out and back, turning around at Hanging Meadows halfway up Cook Hill. 4 miles 1,450 ft. Dr. 98 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK C2 Apr 04 (Sat) Elk Mountain Loop. Sherry Bourdin 503-3142911. A great Coast Range hike with steep elevation gain to Elk Mountain summit and then gradual descent following Elk Creek with lush forest and numerous waterfalls. Plan for early April rain or, if lucky, some beautiful summit views. 10 miles 3,800 ft. Dr. 80 Target/185th 7:30 a.m. HK A2 Apr 05 (Sun) The Dalles Riverfront Trail. Carolyn Eckel 503-251-5939. A paved path along the Columbia River starting at the Discovery Center. Great views of the river and probably wildflowers. 6 miles 100 ft. Dr. 148 Gateway 9 a.m. HK B2 Apr 05 (Sun) Jefferson Park from Whitewater. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@ gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Take a rare opportunity to hike up to Jeff Park in April. We’ll take advantage of the low snow year and chase some views of Mt. Jefferson. Expect snow on the high points of the trail. Bring traction devices and Easter candy. 11 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 200 TH Tualatin (Durham) P&R 7:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Apr 08 (Wed) Dalles Mountain. Bob Breivogel 503-2974284. Hike from the ranch to the top of Stacker Butte. We should have early wildflowers. Leader stops for photo ops. 6 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 194 State Park MMC 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 10 (Fri) Ecola State Park Hike: North to South. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@ yahoo.com. With the weather getting better it should be a nice opportunity to do a coastal hike like Ecola SP, located between Seaside and Cannon Beach. We will start on the north end and hike south over Tillamook Head to Indian Beach/Ecola Pt/and Crescent Beach ending at Cannon Beach. Beautiful views of the ocean and Ecola SP. This hike will involve a car shuttle. 10 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 137 miles Target/185th 8 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Apr 11 (Sat) Stiegerwald NWR. Mark Sanzone msanzone@ yahoo.com 503-679-0962. Easy interpretative hike with a refuge volunteer. Bring your binoculars! 4 miles 100 ft. Dr. 30 Gateway 9 a.m. or meet at the refuge at 9:45 a.m. HK B2 Apr 11 (Sat) Dog Mountain. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail. com. Popular Gorge hike, easy access, beautiful views, and short drive from Portland. Great conditioner, if you want to load your pack. We will go up the more challenging, center trail and back down the East trail. This is an early spring hike, so please be prepared for any and all conditions, including driving wind. Bring food, snacks, water, and 10 essentials. 7 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 98 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Apr 11 (Sat) Boulder Ridge to Huckleberry Mountain. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Cross the Salmon River on a 300 ft. arcing bridge. Lots of switchbacks with views of Mt. Hood, Hunchback Mountain, Wildcat Mountain, and McIntyre Ridge along the way. Panoramic summit views of Mts. Adams, Rainier, St. Helens, and Jefferson. 10.5 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 75 Gateway 8 a.m. HK A1 Apr 12 (Sun) Bayocean Spit. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier. com. Hike on a sandy beach and along the estuary of Tillamook Bay on this loop hike. No sign up list. 7.5 miles 100 ft. Dr. 145 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 12 (Sun) Wahkeena-Angels Rest. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail. com. Hike features rushing spring waters along Wahkeena Creek and great views from Angels Rest. It uses a shuttle. 6.4 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK A2 Apr 13 (Mon) Tom McCall Point/Rowena Plateau. A relaxed wildflower hike through both upper and lower parts of McCall reserve. Lots of time for photography. Lunch on highpoint. 7 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. 140 MMC 9 a.m. HK B2 Apr 15 (Wed) Dublin Lake. Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Spring conditioner. Hike up the forested Tanner Butte Trail and lunch near Dublin Lake. 13.6 miles 3,780 ft. Dr. 88 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK A2 Apr 18 (Sat) Dry Creek Falls. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail. com. This is an out and back hike along the PCT to scenic Dry Creek Falls. 5.4 miles 710 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Apr 18 (Sat) Eagle Creek–Twister Falls. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Popular hike with easy access from Portland. Wander up the Eagle Creek trail, pass half a dozen waterfalls, cross the High Bridge and continue to Twister Falls, just past Tunnel Falls, to enjoy lunch. Bring food, snacks, water, and the 10 essentials. Contact leader to sign up. 12.6 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK C2 Apr 18 (Sat) Table Mountain (West Ridge). Bob Breivogel 503-2974284. Up and down the rocky west ridge of Table Mt. Trekking poles and good boots needed. Moderate pace conditioner. 9 miles 3,450 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK B2 Apr 22 (Wed) Northern Gales Creek Trail. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Woodsy Coast Range trek. We will hike from Reehers Camp up to Bell Camp road. May see some buffalo along the way. 1,500 ft. 6.8 miles Dr. 90 MMC 8 a.m. MU

STREET RAMBLES

Tuesday and Thursday Rambles Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday. Multiple groups will be led at different paces. Bring a headlamp. 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m. APRIL DATES ▶▶ Tuesdays: April 7, 14, 21, 28 ▶▶ Thursdays: April 9, 16, 23, 30

Mt. Hood from Palmateer Point. Photo: Regis Krug.

MT. TABOR RAMBLE EASTSIDE

Wednesdays, April 8, 15, 22, 29 HK B2.5 Apr 25 (Sat) Mount Hebo. Bob Breivogel 503-297-4284. Mt. Hebo is a 3,150 ft. coast range summit 10 miles east of Pacific City. Location of old Radar installation. Start at Hebo Lake trailhead. 6.5 miles 1,504 ft. Dr. 120 Target/185th 8:30 a.m. HK A1 Apr 26 (Sun) Memaloose Hills Loop. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Walk through wildflower meadows at the peak of the balsam root season. Some of the hike is on trails, other sections are in meadows. No sign-up list. 6 miles 500 ft. Dr. 140 Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Apr 29 (Wed) Table RockRooster Rock. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. This Table and Rooster Rock are not in the Gorge, but near the Molalla River in the Bull-of-the Woods area. Features great views of mountains north and south and unique rock formations. 10 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 130 MMC 8 a.m.

TWIN LAKES TO PALMATEER POINT BACKPACK May 16–17

The Mazamas Trail Trips Committee is putting more emphasis on backpacking this year, and to lead it off we’ll have our first trip in May. Two days of hiking and exploring the southeast side of Mt. Hood. Twin Lakes and Palmateer Point offer mountain lakes, wildflower meadows, and unsurpassed views of Mt. Hood. This is a moderately-paced backpack suitable for both beginners and experienced backpackers. We will leave the Frog Lake SnoPark and hike up the Pacific Crest Trail to Lower Twin Lakes, continuing to Upper Twin Lakes, then on to Palmateer Creek to replenish our water needs for the rest of the day and overnight. With a full supply of water, we’ll make the final push up to Palmateer Point to camp for the night. On Sunday morning, if the group is up for it, we’ll hike over to Barlow Butte for some views of Mt. Jefferson to the south. Then, it’s back to camp, pack up, and head for the trailhead. About 2,000 ft. elevation gain, 12 miles. Contact Regis Krug (regis_krug@mentor.com) for more information.

Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain. Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet. Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory. Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12. MU: Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at

Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3.0 mi/ hr) through the streets, admiring the gardens of Southeast Portland up to Mt. Tabor Park. We may even catch a glimpse of a heritage tree. Once in the park we will take alternating trails to the top of the park and the 280 stairs at the NE corner of the park. From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs before finishing with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. Great training for climbing or backpacking this summer (load your packs as you wish). Total mileage 6 miles (not including stairs). Elevation gain approx. 600 ft. Meets at and leaves from the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Starts promptly at 6 p.m. Total time: 2 hours. Leader: Meg Linza, 503-502-8782. $2 (arrive a little early to sign in).

Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

APRIL 2015

EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MINUTES—MARCH 10, 2015

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. Draft Minutes. Attending: Sojo Hendrix–president, Judith Baker–vice president, John Rettig– Secretary, Kate Evans, Sunny Freeman, Marty Hanson, Amy Mendenhall, Joan Zuber, Absent: Steve Hooker-Treasurer. Staff: Lee Davis–Executive Director, Jamie Anderson, Mathew Brock, Kati Mayfield The meeting was called to order at 6:35 p.m. by Mazama President Sojo Hendrix. It was noted that a quorum was present. The agenda was reviewed. It was moved by Judith Baker and seconded by John Rettig to approve the agenda as written; motion carried unanimously. The general minutes from Feb. 10, 2015 were reviewed. Marty Hanson moved and Joan Zuber seconded a motion to approve these minutes as written; motion carried unanimously. BUSINESS REPORTS The Secretary’s February 28 membership report was read into the record. See page 41 for details. The Treasurer’s Report reviewed and incorporated into the record by reference. As of January 31, 2015, Mazamas total operational revenue is $414,220 ($56,851 for the month) and total operating expenses are $444,119 ($119,645 for the month). Assets available for general operations are $53,427 and current total assets are $1,637,485. It was noted that per previous requests the accountant has added year-over-year comparative figures to the balance sheet, both in absolute dollars and percent, and also current yearto-date budgeted comparative figures to the income statement. Lee Davis gave the Executive Director’s report; items noted beyond the written summary provided in the packet were as follows: ▶▶ BCEP begins March 17. Education Committee is hiring an interpreter for a hearing-impaired student; we may want to consider putting in place a policy for accommodation of special needs in our classes.

MAZAMAS

▶▶ Alex Kosseff ’s return April 3–11 will focus on Leader Development; this will be an opportune time to observe many different activities. ▶▶ Interim Strategic Development Plan project reports were reviewed; projects are generally on track; items noted as significant were: ▷▷ Lodge parking lot design resolution has made no progress, but there is an upcoming meeting to resolve it. ▷▷ The SVP candidate whom we are interviewing took another position; we are seeking a new candidate. ▷▷ The USFS has to date not provided a written status of our EA for the lodge parking. ▶▶ Mathew Brock has been on the job about a month as our Library and Historic Collections Manager, working three days per week; he was introduced and offered us a few comments on what he sees as the big issues: ▷▷ Clearing backlog of records management ▷▷ Managing library circulation ▷▷ General organization and cleanup ▷▷ He also sees restoring the function of the Library and Historical Collections Committee as important, as this committee is a key partner, and this is on both Mathew’s and Kati’s agenda to address this. ▷▷ A library update summary report was presented, incorporated herein by reference. ▶▶ Kate Evans made a request to set aside time for the ED and involved staff to update new EC members on current ongoing issues that have not had as much focus the past year as those that are linked to a part of the Strategic Development Plan; if this is not done at a retreat, we will want time set aside later. This will be looked into.

OLD BUSINESS The Consent Agenda was reviewed; there were written reports and actions requested from the following committees: ▶▶ 20s and 30s Mazamas ▶▶ Classic Mazamas ▶▶ Climbing ▶▶ Expedition—approve six expedition grants ▶▶ Outings ▶▶ Outreach—written plus verbal report by Gary Ballou ▶▶ Risk Management ▶▶ Trail Trips Reports less requested actions were accepted by consent. We then dealt with the sole action request; Marty Hanson moved and Joan Zuber seconded a motion to approve the $7,000 requested for six expedition grants; motion carried unanimously. The updated Age Policy was reviewed by Families Committee chair Bob Murphy. This has been through Families, Climbing, Risk Management, and Governing Documents Committees and approved by all of them. There were several changes made for increased clarity of climb team composition and safety. It was moved by John Rettig and seconded by Judith Baker to approve the updated Age Policy as written, with a March 10, 2020 date of mandatory review; motion carried unanimously. Judith Baker gave an update on the Employee Handbook review by outside counsel Amy Angel at Barran-Liebman; they have completed their review and given us written comments and suggestions for change which Judith and Lee are working through to decide what to recommend incorporating. She expects to have it ready by the time of the April EC meeting; John Rettig pointed out that the Policies and Procedures review process requires it to go back to Governing Documents for review if there are new changes proposed. A new sponsorship proposal for the Ice

Wall was presented to EC by Lee Davis, Mike Magyar, Ice Wall project manager, and Keith Campbell, ASI Committee representative, that included three sponsorship options for consideration. Davis, Magyar, and Campbell all stated support for Option 3 as recommended in the proposal; wherein the ice wall would be named the “Mazama Ice Wall—sponsored by CAMP,” with a five-year limit on this contract and the ability to renegotiate and renew at five years. It was moved by Amy Mendenhall and seconded by Sunny Freeman to authorize Lee Davis to renegotiate the contract with CAMP per option three in the proposal, with the final wording to be reviewed and approved by EC prior to the president and secretary signing; motion carried unanimously. John Rettig requested review of the final wording by legal counsel (prior to EC review) to ensure it includes language that we are under no obligations from the previous contract. Lee Davis agreed to do this.

NEW BUSINESS ▶▶ We discussed revoking the membership of a member who continued to use our member directory for business promotion—a misuse of Mazama resources—after repeat notifications to cease and desist. It was agreed we needed to proceed according to the bylaws to send formal notice to the member under review, then to hold a hearing at the next Council meeting. John Rettig agreed to draft a letter of notice and to outline the process to the member. ▶▶ Sojo Hendrix announced she will be initiating a mid-year Executive Director interim review to be held at the April meeting, and that she would like more structure and continuity to the makeup of the committee doing the review—to wit, she always wants the president, treasurer, and secretary involved, plus one at-large volunteer. Marty Hanson again agreed to volunteer for the at-large position.

Executive Council minutes are abridged and subject to approval; for official version, go to mazamas.org/members/executive-council-reports/.

▶▶ An executive session was held regarding a lodge utilization and access issue; minutes not to be released. ▶▶ We adjourned at 8:24 p.m. –Submitted by John Rettig, Mazama Secretary Would you like to receive full council minutes and other council communications in your inbox? If you are a Mazama Member you can subscribe to the Mazama Council Public Listserv. ▶▶ Send an email to councilpublicsubscribe@lists.mazamas.org from the email address that is on file with the Mazamas. ▶▶ Confirm your email address by replying to the email you receive. ▶▶ Subscription requests will be processed every couple of days. ▶▶ Once your request is approved, you will being receiving council email messages. The subject line will contain [councilpublic]. ▶▶ Subscribers may only view, not respond, to email messages.

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PRG Member Paul Carrier on top of Rooster Rock with staff guide Adam Snyder.

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