MARCH 2015
VOL. 97
NO. 3
What’s Inside?
Climbing Center in the Khumbu Madrone Wall Update Upcoming Activities
UPCOMING EVENTS
FEATURES
Youth Outreach Update, p. 6 Memoir & Mountaineering, p. 7 What Does it take to Build a Climbing Center?, p. 8 Wind from a Distant Summit, Book Review, p. 11 Madrone Wall Update, p. 12 Used Equipment Sale, p. 15 Expedition Grants, p. 15 Leader Profile: Regis Krug, p. 16 Dreaming of Summer Rock: Liberty Bell, p. 24
MARCH 5—TRANSYLVANIA OUTING INFORMATION NIGHT Meet John Osaki, of Mountain Hiking Holidays and a Mazama member, who will introduce you to this amazing high country traverse. John has completed the traverse twice and will share insights about the route, lodgings, and the unique charms of hiking in Romania! Questions are welcome. 7 p.m. at the MMC.
MONTHLY COLUMNS
MARCH 12 —TELLURIDE MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL Doors open at 6 p.m.; show at 7 p.m. at the Aladdin Theater, 3017 SE Milwaukie Avenue. Proceeds benefit Portland Mountain Rescue.
MARCH 19—USED EQUIPMENT SALE DROP-OFF Gear drop off: Thursday, March 19 from 4–8 p.m. Please note that the Mazamas will not accept gear before or after this time period.
MARCH 20—USED EQUIPMENT SALE
Members & students in climbing classes: Friday, March 20, 5–6 p.m. General public: Friday, March 20, 6–8 p.m.
MARCH 21—USED EQUIPMENT SALE GEAR PICK-UP Saturday, March 21 3–7 p.m. Any gear remaining after 7 p.m. on Saturday becomes property of Mazamas.
MARCH 25—MAZAMA WELCOME NIGHT
Are you a new Mazama member, or looking to join? Or, have you been around for a while and want new ways to engage? Come to a Mazama Welcome Night, where we’ll give you an overview of all of our programs, classes and activities; opportunities to get involved at every skill level; and learn some fun Mazama history trivia. Please RSVP to kati@ mazamas.org. 7 p.m. at the MMC.
Cover: Climbers in the hourglass on Sandy Glacier Headwall. Photo: Jeff Welter
Climbing Liberty Bell, Washington, North Cascades. Read more about it on page 24. Photo: Bob Breivogel.
CONTACT US Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 • 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thursday Noon—Monday Noon
Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager • jamie@mazamas.org Adam Baylor—Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org Mathew Brock—Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org Sarah Bradham—Marketing & Publications Manager • sarah@mazamas.org Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager • rick@mazamas.org Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
Publications Committee Committee Chair: Kristie Perry, publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Catherine Diaz, Sue Griffith, Lacy Turner
Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Time Warp, p. 13 Upcoming Opportunities, p. 14 Evening Travel Programs, p. 15 Classics, p. 18 Mazama Families, p. 19 20s & 30s, p. 20 Mazama Lodge Notes, p. 21 Outings, p. 22 Membership Report, p. 26 Obituaries, p. 27 Trail Trips Info, p. 28 Executive Council Minutes, p. 30
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama. bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed (no snail mail) to the editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c) (3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT
Welcome BCEP Students Dear Mazamas, In just two weeks the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) will be starting up, welcoming many new and enthusiastic students to the Mazamas and also to the challenges and rewards of alpine mountaineering. Many of these students are already members, and many more will soon summit their first mountain and join the Mazamas as voting members. Mazamas was formed on the summit of Mt. Hood on July 19, 1894, in a storm no less, and with 193 stalwart women and men reaching the summit. Ever since, the Mazamas have been focused on our mission of promoting mountaineering and sharing our joy and passion for the mountains with others. Mazamas first mountaineering school was founded by Warren Wilson in 1950. A proud legacy member of Portlandia, Wilson was known for having once bicycled 90 miles to Cloud Cap on the north side of Mount Hood. He then climbed Mt. Hood the next day with a team of Mazamas and proceeded to bike all the way back to town. In 1950! I have a few friends that enjoy bike-hike-and-climb trips like this today, but Warren might well have been one of the first. Warren Wilson’s enthusiasm for climbing and mountaineering lives on through Mazama programs and classes like BCEP today. We believe that it takes several years of practice, learning and experience in the mountains before someone can really absorb and understand the complexities of the mountain environment. We also believe that this journey and the shared experiences and friendships created along the way are the true purpose of our programs. Like Louis L’Amour said “The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast, and you miss all you are traveling for.”
The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast, and you miss all you are traveling for.” –Louis L’Amour
We get phone calls and emails nearly every day at the Mazama Mountaineering Center in Portland from people asking if we’ll “take them up Mount Hood”. Our first response to this question is to ask them why they want to climb. Is it just to get to the top, to summit? Or, are they interested in learning about mountaineering and having hiking, climbing, skiing and stewardship of the mountain environment become a part of their lives? For those few that really just want to take the short road, to get to the top of Mt. Hood and then be done with climbing, we recommend they contact an AMGA certified professional guide service. It’s not only faster, but it’s cheaper. Mazama classes alone are certainly less expensive than a guided climb, but we also expect our students to invest in equipment and then in years of experiences and education to help them learn how to safely play in the mountains. After some consideration, most people say they want to take the long road and we recommend that they start by taking BCEP. Through this, our biggest and oldest course, hikers, backpackers and general outdoor enthusiasts learn the fundamental skills of mountaineering (rock climbing, snow climbing, basic navigation, and of
course how to hike uphill for hours!). After graduating BCEP most of our students go on to engage in several years of climbing mountains throughout the Pacific Northwest. And some of those continue on to engage in a lifetime of alpine recreation and stewardship through Mazamas. Many of you reading this will find yourselves in carpools this month heading to the Columbia River Gorge, Mt. Hood or the Coast Range to hike and to climb. Some will be heading out to learn, some to get in shape, and many to simply spend more time in the mountains. Best of all, many of us will be sharing these experiences with old and new friends. I thank all of you who choose regularly to go out and experience the mountains, and also the hundreds of willing volunteers who donate their time to share these experiences with others. You are the people that make Mazamas strong and continue our 120 year legacy of exploring, researching, enjoying and protecting the mountains. Thank you, Executive Director Lee Davis Executive Director
Informational Gathering: HUT TO HUT TRAVERSE OF THE TRANSYLVANIAN ALPS IN ROMANIA Mazama Affiliate Outing with Mountain Hiking Holidays Thursday, March 5 at 7p.m. Meet John Osaki, of Mountain Hiking Holidays and a Mazama member, who will introduce you to this amazing high country traverse. John has completed the traverse twice and will share insights about the route, lodgings, and the unique charms of hiking in Romania! Questions are welcome.
MARCH 2015 3
Building New Climbers An Exciting Time for Mazamas by Sarah Bradham, Mazama Marketing & Publications Manager March is a big month at the Mazamas. Our biggest program of the year, the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) gets underway in the middle of the month. In 2015 this means we have the opportunity to train 260 brand new mountaineers! These BCEP teams will hike in the Gorge, near Mt. Hood, in the Coast Range, and Forest Park—learning to pack a pack, increase their fitness, and how to work as a team. They’ll travel to Mt. Hood for a day to learn snow skills, and if conditions are good (or perhaps not), enjoy a trip to the top of the Palmer lift or Illumination Rock. A day on rock at Horsethief Butte will round out their training, as they explore the crag, learn to move on rock, and discover the ins and outs of belaying and rappelling.
Each year BCEP students learn not only the hard skills involved with mountaineering, but they also get to learn about the Mazamas. And what it means to be a Mazama. BCEP teams can be tight knit groups where you can meet some of your future climbing partners. I think many of us who have gone through BCEP count at least one of our team members as a close friend. To this year’s BCEP students—we look forward to getting to know you and having the opportunity to climb with you. BCEP will go by faster than you can imagine, make sure to enjoy it! When you have soaked up all the class has to offer, we hope you’ll choose to join our ranks to climb, hike, build trails, travel, and eventually lead. Welcome to the Mazamas!
DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ Stay connected with Mazamas on Facebook. Like our page today: facebook. com/mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. The publication is in full color and is easily readable on tablets and laptops. ▶▶ You can download a PDF of the Bulletin if you login to the Member pages of the Mazama website. Login, click on the Members tab and click on Mazama Bulletin & Annual. ▶▶ You can advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl. com/MazamasAds for details. ▶▶ Read interesting Mazama stories, and relevant information from around the web on the Mazama blog. Mazamas.blogspot.com
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES Publications Committee Tuesday, March 3
The Mazama Publications Committee invites anyone interested in writing, editing, and proofreading to join them for a first Tuesday of the month meeting at 7 p.m. at the MMC. Are you a published writer or working editor looking for the perfect Mazama volunteer gig? Would you like to polish up your proofreading, work on your word craft, bring your college-era editing skills out of mothballs? Or would you simply like to learn about any or all of the above in a supportive group? The Pub Committee is a group of Mazamas who love linking climbing, hiking, and wilderness adventure to the written word (online and off)! Contact Sarah Bradham for more information, sarah@mazamas.org.
Outreach Team Members Wednesday, March 4
Do you enjoy attending events and meeting new people? Do you LOVE the Mazamas? Then we need you on the Mazama Outreach Team! Members are on call to represent the Mazamas at mountaineering and outdoor industry events around the community. You can attend the events that interest you and suit your schedule. Join us Wednesday, March 4 from 6:30–
8:30 p.m. to learn how to pitch the Mazamas and view the upcoming calendar of events. Contact Outreach Committee Chair Gary Ballou, outreach@mazamas.org, to sign up or learn more.
Used Equipment Sale Volunteers Sale is March 20
Are you interested in helping out with the 2015 Used Equipment Sale? We need everything from greeters to cashiers to floor managers. You can find more information about the event and the volunteer roles and can sign up to help out by clicking this link: https://sites. google.com/site/uesmazama/
Programs Committee
Wednesdays, October-May
The Mazama Programs Committee hosts the beloved weekly travel programs. You’ll be one of the regular volunteer hosts and help set up the auditorium (chairs, projector, laptop, sound system) and will assist the guest speaker. You’ll find it easy and fun with the added bonus of seeing great shows from all over the world. Contact chairperson John Leary, learyj@comcast.net or 503236-5475 if you are interested in helping out.
Stewardship Survey Specialists Remote, Ongoing
The 2015 Stewardship & Conservation Survey will gather information from the Mazama membership on perceptions of stewardship issues and the role the Mazamas should play in addressing them. The survey will be distributed online and by snail mail, so we will need help inputting data from the pen and paper submissions. We also need assistance analyzing the results so that we can develop a report. If you are interested in this opportunity, please contact Stewardship Program Manager Adam Baylor, adam@mazamas. org.
Youth Outreach Instructors March-May
The Mazamas offers a kids climbing class to community youth through partners like Friends of the Children, Betties360 and Adelante Mujeres. We are looking for volunteers to assist with and instruct the classes. Please contact Kati Mayfield (kati@ mazamas.org) if you are interested and available one or more of the following dates: May 3, 6, April 24, 25, and May 22
KATI MAYFIELD VOLUNTEER MANAGER KATI@MAZAMAS.ORG
Kati Mayfield joined the Mazamas as Volunteer Manager in 2012. In this role she supports Mazama volunteers by connecting them with the resources and information they need to fulfill their duties; and by helping new volunteers engage in meaningful ways. Kati also manages the Youth Outreach Program, geared towards creating opportunities for kids in our community to learn about and play in the mountains.
Rehabilitation and Prevention of Rock Climbing, Mountaineering & Hiking Injuries Lynne Pedersen, DPT, Mazama Member Since 2006 MARCH 2015 5
STRATEGIC GOALS
Youth Outreach Programming
Building Lifetimes of Supporting & Protecting the Environment by Lisa Mellman The Youth Outreach Committee began piloting its first program, a Learn to Climb class for youth, at the beginning of February. The committee is partnering with a number of local organizations, including mentoring organization, Friends of the Children, to give youth opportunities to develop rock climbing knowledge and skills including the basics about equipment, knots and safety. The participating youth will have numerous opportunities to develop competence with climbing and
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belaying. In addition, it is the committee’s hope that the Learn to Climb participants and mentors will have opportunities to climb in the community following the completion of the program. The first session of the class was a hit! After filling out questionnaires about prior experience and interest in the outdoors as well as a short pre-test the group got down to business. Several Mazama member volunteers worked closely with 8th and 9th grade students and their mentors to review equipment, knots and safety. After a demonstration, volunteers worked oneon-one with students to practice knot tying and rock climbing commands. The students
As part of the Mazamas strategic priority to develop youth outreach programming, the Youth Outreach Committee formed in December 2014. Here is a snapshot of the exciting programs the committee is launching.
were engaged throughout the introduction of basic skills but were most excited when it was time to get on the wall. After two hours, the students were reluctant to stop climbing. The March 6 session will be held at The Circuit. Volunteers will offer participants opportunities to learn rock climbing techniques to improve their form. In April, participants will return to the MMC to learn how to belay and take their rock climbing to the next level! In addition to working with Friends of the Children in March (March 6) and April (April 24), the Youth Outreach Committee will also host participants from Betties360 (March 3) and Adelante Mujeres (April 25) in this class.
Memoir and Mountaineering Endless Worlds of Possibility
by Catherine Diaz Joe Fox found himself living on Mt. Hood before he ever considered himself a mountaineer. For six months, beginning in November 2013, he and his wife Amanda Richardson worked as caretakers of the Mazama Lodge. Recently married and back in the states after almost two years in Guatemala, the pair sent hundreds of guests off on family hikes, snowshoeing adventures, and summit bids ensuring they would return to a welcoming home base and a hot meal. Joe has always been a lover of the wild, but had never considered taking on a mountain until his “life-changing” stint at the lodge. The Mazama spirit was infectious and by the time spring 2014 rolled around he didn’t hesitate in joining BCEP. That summer he climbed Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Hood. Last November Joe integrated his love of writing and Mazamas by teaching a six-week memoir-writing workshop at the MMC. With a Master’s degree in teaching from State University of New York and six years’ teaching experience, he guided a small group of mountaineers on a writing journey. The class is meant to introduce writers to “the endless world of possibilities” that memoir exploration offers. He aspires to take the workshop out on the trail, for a mix of backpacking adventure and creative exploration. Joe’s second workshop began Feb. 17 and his next class will begin this spring. You can find out more by emailing him at reachmrfox@ gmail.com.
Joe Fox at the base of El Capitan in Yosemite, CA. Photo: Megan Zabel.
▶▶ Hometown: Morristown, NJ ▶▶ Occupation: Writing teacher, Southwestern Oregon Community College ▶▶ Favorite books: Angela’s Ashes by Frank McCourt and Absalom Absalom! by William Faulkner ▶▶ What are you reading right now?: Just Kids, the Patti Smith memoir ▶▶ Favorite hike: Table Mountain Loop offers challenges and rewards in bunches. I did it for the first time during BCEP and have taken my friends up there several times since. So much grandeur. ▶▶ Most recent adventure: We spent a few days in Yosemite over the long MLK holiday weekend, and got a chance to not only rub elbows with the camera man and some of the crew who were up on the Dawn Wall with Jorgeson and Caldwell for three weeks on
the day they came down, but also got a chance to try our hand at the Alcove Swing. Then the next day we hiked up to Glacier Point for sunset and hiked down under the stars. Truly magical. ▶▶ What are your climbing goals for the coming season?: Mt. Rainier and Mt. Shasta ▶▶ Favorite piece of gear?: Old, blue Petzl headlamp. Many years ago a good friend and I were hiking in one of the gorges in Ithaca, NY and got to talking. Before we knew it the sun was setting on us and we had no lights. You only need to tiptoe blindly down a steep, winding, uneven staircase of shale for over an hour once to know the true value of a good headlamp.
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What Does it take to Build a Climbing Center? Khumbu Climbing Center in Phortse, Khumbu, Nepal by Mike Pajunas The Khumbu region of Nepal is well known as the location of many beautiful Himalayan mountains: Ama Dablam, Mt. Everest and Lhotse to name a few. The Sherpa people, native to the Khumbu Region have been risking their lives for many years working for high altitude expeditions as guides and porters. Death in the Himalayas and especially Mt. Everest is a too common occurrence, particularly for the Sherpa men who do the dangerous icefall routing up the Khumbu Icefall. The idea for the Khumbu Climbing Center was conceived in 2003 by Jennie Lowe Anker and her husband Conrad Anker, a well known mountain climber. The Ankers, founders of The Alex Lowe Charitable Fund (ALCF), wanted to create the climbing school in the village of Phortse as more Sherpa wanted to work on Mt.Everest, but needed mountaineering training to do it safely. A two week course was set up using Western climbers to teach climbing skills, mountain safety, rescue and English language. The school has been very successful, more than 1000 students, men and women, have attended the course. In 2007 the KCC Board began work on design of a building for the climbing school so it could operate year round. The building would have indoor and outdoor climbing walls, meeting space for the school and community, office, library, kitchen, and showers.
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Two families who own lodges in Phortse donated the land for the building. Over three years a group of graduate architecture students at Montana State University under the instruction of Professor Mike Everts went through a design process considering siting, design aspects and cultural considerations. Priorities were to create the first earthquake resistant structure in the Khumbu and to use a passive solar system. Gabion wire cages would be used to strengthen dry stack stone walls. Local building materials would be quarried stone from the village hillside. In 2009 the first team of MSU graduate students went to Phortse to begin construction. The team was lead by architect, Dean Soderberg, who also worked on the design as a grad student. Dean has gone back each fall season since to oversee construction. Dean has given a year and a half of his time to building the KCC over the last 6 years. Tim Harrington, a building contractor from Boulder, CO, is the spring season construction leader. The Mazamas became involved in 2013 when Conrad Anker visited Portland and spoke at the annual Porltand Alpine Fest. Mazamas held a fundraising event for the KCC and successfully raised money for the project. In April 2014 an avalanche struck a group of Sherpa establishing the route through the Khumbu Icefall and 16 Sherpa were killed. The Mazamas Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) team was asked by the Ankers to provide grief support to the families of the killed workers. The KCC could also use more construction help as the building was still only about 30 percent complete. I was able to accompany the CISM team to Nepal with the help of Jennie Lowe Anker and the ALCF. Departing Oct. 25, 2014, it took two long
Thanks to generous sponsors and donors, the Mazamas sent a Crititical Incident Stress Management (CISM) team to Nepal to aid the survivors of the April 2014 avalanche on Everest. The first in a series of articles about CISM’s experience in Nepal appeared in the January 2015 Bulletin, and the second was posted to mazamas.blogspot.com in late January.
days to get to Katmandu. It took three days for me to get there with passport problems. But that’s another story. It was a great adventure, made better as we went to help the Nepali people in ways we each could. There is a wonderful feeling in the beginning of a journey, the excitement of the unknown and living in the moment. The entrance to the Khumbu is a narrow mountainous gateway accessible by a small prop plane. Symbolically a small prop plane fights its way for more elevation to gain access to a high mountain pass before fast moving clouds close the gateway in. Lukla Airport at an elevation of 8,500 feet is (roll of the dice) a tilted landing strip perched on a high mountain side. A rock wall located at the end of the landing strip forces planes to break hard and turn right quickly. Very exciting! The trek into the Humbug began from Lukla. The trek is a blur of time and a moment clear as the mountain high sky. Walking down stone paths, stairs up and down, stone houses made by hand, everything made by hand, many trekkers from many countries: German, French, Japanese, American, and Canadian. Yak trains of goods heading up valley. Porters carrying everything ... six sheets of plywood, mattresses 7 feet high, a kitchen counter and sink (one load), a man-sized bundle of bamboo shoots for dinner, cases of beer and boxes of noodles, the trail is the main highway for all people and goods traveling the Khumbu. This trekking trail follows the beautiful Duh Kosi River (translated it means “milky river”) through forests of Himalayan pine, hemlock, beech and rhododendron. Village tea houses, lodges and homes nestle closely to the trail, made of hand quarried basalt; dry stacked with
corrugated metal roofs and brightly painted wood frame windows. A door or curtain is often open with children peaking out shyly. Chickens and dogs freely roam the stone path. Suspension bridges provide some excitement as the trail eventually leaves the river. Climbing breathlessly out of the river valley for 2,700 feet to Namche Bazaar, the largest village in the Khumbu, at an elevation of 11, 300 feet The trekking day is very long and strenuous: seven miles up in seven hours over very rugged terrain. Everyone is very tired. Namche at night reminds me of Christmas. This beautiful village is nestled in a hillside high above a dark forested valley. The glacier-covered mountain Kongle Ri 20,000 feet shines in the background under the moonlight sky. The lights of lodges twinkle in the crisp, clean, cold mountain air: it’s stunningly beautifully. It’s a gift to be here. We stay at The Panorama Lodge. Sherep Jangbu and Lhapka Sherpa, the lodge owners, greet us as we drop our packs and enter the tea house. It is an amazing feeling to be here and to be expected as guests. As soon as we are seated on benches along the windows overlooking the village, large thermoses of tea are brought out. I find on this trip that you hardly need water as you have so many cups of tea with lunch and dinner. It is a pleasure to hike then sit in
Left: Mike with Lhakpa Dorji, Lodge Owner, at
Phortse. Right: Phortse. Photos: Marina Wynton a tea house, relax with tea and begin again. I believe Marina my wife, said it well when she mentioned a meditative way down to a gorgeous river valley. Then walking, like a daily practice and a necessity, it’s back up the hillside through beech as this is how you travel here. So embrace forests and you pop out of the woods to the walk and be happy in the morning be greeted by stacks on mani stones and a sunshine. Everyone takes a day off from the white stupa. This is Phortse. Blue pheasants trek in Namche to rest up and acclimatize. and crows hop along in the tree tops and We wander the bazaar, the shops, visit the yaks graze at the edge of the trail on the local monastery and the park devoted to steep hillside. natural history and Tensing Norgay. The lower end of the village just above the The next day I departed for Phortse with fields is where the two lodges, the Namaste a porter. The CISM team is traveling in a and Phortse Guest house are located. The different direction, so I am on my own now. KCC building is between the lodges on land The trail above Namche traverses a broad given by the owners of both lodges. hillside where you begin to feel the size of I entered the tea house at Namaste Lodge nature here. The pine trees are stunted and and was met by Lhakpa Dorji, the gracious soon disappear. Azaleas and grass cover the lodge owner and former Mt. Everest guide sub alpine ground on the way to Mong La and his wife Nawang. I was welcomed with at 13,000 feet. This small village pass (La tea by his daughter, Fu Doma, and shown a means pass) is very scenic, overlooking the sunny, warm room to stash my gear. Duh Koshi River thousands of feet below After settling in at the lodge I found Dean and the peaks of 20,700 foot Thamserku and working on site. Dean gave me the tour 20,857 foot Kantega 20,857 rising above. of the building in construction: including Turn the corner at this pass and drop down gabion wrapped rock footings; an immense through spectacular giant fir trees and into a rhododendron forest and all the continued on next page
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Climbing Center, continued from previous page
back wall of the building standing about 18 foot high and 3 feet thick for the first 8 feet in height. Wooden posts support steel floor joists for the second floor. On the second floor there will be library and class room space. There is an engineered truss connecting the front and back walls that will shorten the roof span. This is critical as available steel must be considered for length and weight when building by hand. The building is about 30 percent complete. Floors, roof, exterior walls, windows are yet to be built. The interior walls will have foam insulation board with a plywood finish panel. One-eighth or one-quarter inch plywood is typical wall finish material for teahouses or lodge rooms in the Khumbu. Since there will be no stud wall framing against the gabion walls the plywood finish material will be three-quarter inch plywood. How the plywood will attach to the gabion walls is yet to be determined. The floor material on the ground floor will be cement pavers (made in Katmandu and transported by plane and yak) or slate. Once all houses in the Khumbu had slate roofs. Slowly slate is being replaced by corrugated steel painted red or green. Slate is locally quarried and a historic building material, so I think slate is the right choice for flooring of the KCC. Sand and gravel are sifted from the river below the village and hand carried up to the site. The flooring concrete pavers or slate flooring will be dry set with sand. Cement mortar is very expensive ($90) for an 80 pound bag and would be transported by plane and yak from Katmandu, adding to the cost. The building has gabion wire cages filled with rocks for exterior walls since cement for dry stacking is very costly and stone without cement would not withstand earthquake movement. Gabion wire cages take the place of cement. The traditional stone building method in the Khumbu is mortar joints or tight fitting perfectly chiseled granite blocks for strength and concrete pillars for corners in multi-story buildings. This type of construction for the KCC was ruled out as too expensive. We toured the village quarry located on an adjacent hillside behind a beech forest. It was quiet as the stone masons hadn’t arrived yet and the quarry had not opened yet for the season. The quarried rock is split by pounding sharpened and case-hardened pipe into buried boulders, creating a series of holes until something gives way.
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For the next seven days Dean and I worked on finalizing wall elevations, erecting steel wall supports and re-building the top of a 35 foot long gabion wall for the final cement cap. The Nepali stone masons arrived part way through the week and began chipping quarried rock into useable building blocks. Each day the workers case-hardened their tools with a small wood coal fire and a bellows. Now and then I would look up at the mountains around Phortse while I was working, pause and think wow, I’m in Nepal! We began each day with a family style breakfast made by Fu Dome and Nawang. Omelets, french toast, Sherpa toast with cherry jam from China. A note from my journal says “honey is good, butter is sparse, jam is from China.” One morning we had warm goat milk with a grain. I asked Dean, “what’s this?” He said, “cornflakes.” He got me there. I went for early morning walks around the village as the sun came up to experience the ‘being there’ moments. The frosted grass, the silence, the ancient stupas of the lower fields and the monastery always on the highest sacred ground. I didn’t get to experience the Everest Trek like so many we met on the trail. But for me, this time in Phortse was very special since I was here to begin each day, see the sun rise, the smoke rising from the houses at dawn, to encounter the one-horned bull (and stand aside!) and to be with the friendly Sherpa people who make their lives here. I felt very at home in Phortse. Marina and her guide Karki arrived in Phortse several days later. The CISM team had been trekking from village to village visiting with families. The other members of the team had already begun the return trek. I was very happy to see my wife’s smiling face again in this marvelous place. While I worked, Marina had time to wander the village and fields in the sunshine, visit the
Yak Train. Photo: Marina Wynton.
local monastery and the children’s library, read, do our laundry (in a big bowl of hot water outside) and rest up for the return trek. At the Namaste Lodge, Lhapka and Nawang work very hard to feed everyone and make sure we are comfortable. The walls of the dining room are solid with family photos, photos of Lhakpa and Nawang as a young couple with their children and photos of Lhakpa as an Everest guide. Lhapka has a great, hearty laugh and a big smile for everyone. At night we sit on benches at tables, drinking tea, beer, and having dinner. Dinner may be Sherpa Stew, Dal Bhat, fried macaroni, chicken chow mein. The room is filled with German and Norwegian trekkers, Nepali porters, village neighbors and us. We pass the time playing a new card game called Kings Corner and wait for the yak dung-fired wood stove to heat the room. But the night is longer than the day and we were usually very tired after a long day of construction and would go to bed early. Rooms are very small and very cold at night as the rooms are uninsulated and unheated. Before entering the room, one quickly uses the bathroom and get into the sleeping bag pronto to read a while with a headlamp. I didn’t have enough warm clothes to stay outside for very long at night and often a cloud layer or fog would move in to obstruct the night sky. It was a great experience to go to a place where Shangri-la could be found. Nepal is an amazing place with wonderful, gracious people. I’m hoping to return in the fall, meet up with Dean and get back to work continuing the construction of the KCC.
BOOK REVIEW
Wind From a Distant Summit by Barry Maletzky Author Pat Deavoll takes us on not just a personal journey in this singular book describing her life as a female mountaineer, but adds the extra joy of a travelogue to unfamiliar places as well. From her beginnings exploring the hills near her New Zealand home, she has managed to travel the world, ascending not only peaks high and distant, but ranges lesser known to the armchair mountaineers most likely to appreciate this book. She adds in some theories about the reasons for climbing, especially for the female alpinist. This text is unusual in several respects. For one, Deavoll chooses respect-worthy climbs but almost always on lesser-known peaks. She is constantly on the watch for first ascents of spectacular lines rather than more conventional routes up the 8,000 meter giants which form the obligatory testing grounds for most professional climbers. Not for her, K2 or the tortured faces of Nanga Parbat. Partly, this may reflect her self-acknowledged difficulty at altitudes above 7,000 meters but her choices may also reflect a desire to stand out from a climbing crowd she sees as overly male and overly egotistic. Indeed, she spares little sympathy, especially for the elite North American male climbers who now dominate the sport and who obtain the largest grants, earn the huge benefits of brand-name sponsorship, and who command the greatest attention in the climbing press. There is a hint of bitterness in all this but perhaps her antipodean origins may have contributed to a sense of being the outsider, eager for acceptance. A second happy novelty in Wind is Deavoll’s fascination with the exotic places she visits. Finished with the test pieces in New Zealand and the ice lines in Canada, she embarks on adventures to unknown locales in India and Pakistan. She relishes the exploration of exotic villages on the treks to base camps and many of her descriptions read more like a travelogue than a record of her climbs. But these are there too, and, as often as she succeeds, she does not shy from describing her failures as well.
Partly through her climbing, she has overcome the disability of a depressive disorder, as severe, or more so, than her new titanium knee (we feel the pain).
The names of the peaks she attempts, even in the familiar ranges of the Hindu Kush and Garwhal Himalaya, do not roll easily off the tongue. They are not only obscure but have not even been attempted in the past. Yet they as spire-like as the betterknown towers in those ranges, and most often, Deavoll attempts them choosing the sharpest lines imaginable. To her credit, she does not hide her tears when she fails or is, as so often the case, bitterly cold, hungry and fatigued. She is generous to a fault, cheering on teammates who have followed her failures with their own successes. She is also brutally honest in challenging her own motivations in climbing, the “most selfish” of pursuits, one that rarely helps anyone else and one that in her case has created a string of broken relationships. Yet the very fact that this author prefers the unfamiliar poses a problem in following her travels: The lack of maps and route photos leaves us often wondering where these remote peaks might be and how they are related to better-known peaks nearby. Unless you are familiar with the Southern Alps in New Zealand or the far reaches of Baluchistan, or perhaps are acquainted with a mountain somewhere in Pakistan named Beka Brakai Chhok, you will be as lost as I was in trying to place the author’s far-flung ascents. It is perhaps unfair to compare this type of book, a personal journey, to what I consider the more engrossing (and certainly better written) expedition books more popular among us weekend adventurers. For one thing, Deavoll cannot give us a compelling picture of the personalities of her partners, many of which are well-known female climbers we would like to learn more about. I also feel the lack of continuity which a fine Krakauer or Venables expeditionary tale brings to the reader. Nonetheless, we do learn about fine first ascents accompanied by the misery that is the partner of the highaltitude adventurer. Indeed, it is this misery
that compels Deavoll to devote large parts of her later chapters to what, in my opinion, dilutes many climbing tales: the “why” of climbing. Here she delves to too great an extent into the philosophy of adventure sports, even succumbing to pop psychology in the process. Yet self-exploration may have been part of her reason to write this book. Partly through her climbing, she has overcome the disability of a depressive disorder, as severe, or more so, than her new titanium knee (we feel the pain). At 51, and with continuing knee problems, Deavoll wonders about her climbing future. After all, she always has her highs achieving ascents in the mountains and suffers her lowest moments not from a climbing failure but after she returns to the city. That’s why it’s reassuring to know that at this juncture, the author is just as happy writing and wandering those hills near her Christchurch home as she is tackling the unknown giants of her past. I would recommend this book as both travelogue and personal triumphs and tragedies honestly displayed for all the world to recognize. The fact that a woman “made it” in what had become a man’s game is no longer fresh; the fact, however, that Deavoll did so with such panache while overcoming her own personal demons makes it more than a worthwhile read. Deavoll, P. Wind from a Distant Summit. Nelson, New Zealand: Craig Potton Publishing, 2013. Mazama Library number 920.D34 MARCH 2015 11
ACCESS ISSUES
March 2015: Madrone Wall Status Update by Keith K. Daellenbach, Secretary/Treasurer and Director, MWPC and Adam Baylor, Mazama Stewardship & Advocacy Manager Early advocacy efforts saved Madrone Wall from being blown up as an open pit rock quarry and logged of its uncommon stand of Pacific madrone and old growth Douglas fir. That was 18 years ago and Madrone Wall is still closed despite such efforts. But today climbers are working harder than ever to help open this beautiful crag again to public access. Here is what we’ve been working on in recent years: First, the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee (MWPC), an all-volunteer nonprofit 501(c)(3) conservation organization, completed detailed engineering construction plans for an aggregate access road and parking lot after three years of pro-bono work from T.Y. Lin International engineering firm. Second, working with Clackamas County Parks, with your help we completed 800 hours of volunteer time at the site building trails and removing illegally dumped rubbish. Third, with support from the Mazamas, Access Fund, American Alpine Club, and CRAG Law Center, we are trying to finalize a Memorandum of Understanding with County Parks. Finally and most importantly, we are creating ways for you to get involved to save Madrone Wall with permanent park status and open it to public recreational access including rock climbing! PARK CREATION AND MOU In order to create a public park and re-gain access to Madrone Wall, Clackamas County Parks requires the resurfacing of the existing aggregate quarter mile access road and construction of a small gravel parking lot at the base of the Wall before the County will allow access and open a public park. To help find a way to accomplish this step, we 12 MAZAMA BULLETIN
proposed accessing the support of the Oregon National Guard. MWPC is working with the 1249th Engineering Battalion to determine if there is a possible partnership that could move this effort forward. This would be a partnership between County Parks, the public owner of the land, and the Oregon National Guard. It conceivably would allow Oregon soldiers to train on road building using excavators, dozers, scrapers, and rollers for essentially no labor cost to the County. If this approach is approved, it will be a winwin-win: the County wins with essentially a zero-labor construction cost, the soldiers of the State of Oregon gain the experience of building a road and using construction equipment as a training activity on a meaningful and lasting project, and the public would have a new park in which to recreate. To move park creation plans forward, County Parks stipulated that a Memorandum of Understanding is required between County Parks and MWPC. This MOU would define roles and responsibilities and support activities that MWPC would provide County Parks as a long-term “friends of ” and stewardship organization. We wrote a draft MOU in May 2014 and submitted this to County Parks. We waited nine months for the County to provide feedback but have heard none. That is why we are ramping up our efforts to work closely with Mazamas, Access Fund, and the American Alpine Club, all longtime allies in the effort to save Madrone Wall, in an attempt to kick-start this 18-year old effort to move forward with new discussions with elected County officials and County Parks. GET INVOLVED AND SAVE MADRONE WALL Mazamas and all climbers and hikers can look for ways to get involved in the coming year. For now, you can Like our
Pacific madrone at base of Madrone Wall. Photo: Keith K. Daellenbach
Facebook Page, “Madrone Wall Preservation Committee,” stay connected online, and refer to updates on our website www. savemadrone.org. We’ll also send an Action Alert via email soon. We encourage you to contact decision makers in Clackamas County including the Board of County Commissioners (www.clackamas.us/bcc/) and County Parks (www.clackamas.us/ parks/). We are grateful for, over the years, hundreds of you voiced your opinion to decision makers but we’re at another crux and ask for your renewed support! It’s been 18 years since the closure. Time to open the gate to a new public park protecting this amazing civic treasure. Please write and email Clackamas County officials today!
About the Author
Keith K. Daellenbach is an engineering manager at a local medical device company and has been a Mazama member since 1999. He has done numerous climbs including Liberty and Ptarmigan Ridges on Mt. Rainier, the north ridge of the Grand Teton, El Pico de Orizaba, and he led two first ascents of remote alpine peaks in the Alaska Coast Range mountains on the Juneau Icefield. He is founder and director of the all-volunteer, local non-profit Madrone Wall Preservation Committee focused on preserving and creating a park at the Clackamas County Madrone Wall site near Carver.
Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM)
A Mazama committee providing support services to Mazamas. If you or your group have had a traumatic experience contact the Mazama office (503-2272345) or Marina Wynton. All debriefs conducted through CISM are confidential.
Winter Climbing with Mazamas The winter climb sseason at Mazamas runs from December–April. You can find the winter climb schedule and details about winter climb procedures at: mazamas.org/activities-events/winter-climbschedule/ You’ll find two types of entries on the climb schedule: ▶▶ A planned climb ▶▶ A scheduled climb PLANNED CLIMBS There is a planned month for the climb. The climb leader is planning to lead the climb during the month and will be watching the weather to find an optimal time to schedule the climb. SCHEDULED CLIMBS These climbs have dates listed.
For Planned Climbs, email or call the climb leader and let them know you are interested in the climb. Then wait for an email or call from the climb leader indicating the climb has been scheduled. For Scheduled Climbs, mail a climb card to the climb leader. Happy Climbing!
Time Warp Travel back in time: What were Mazamas doing 50 & 100 years ago? by Jack Grauer
1965—50 YEARS AGO
February: An overdue letter from Bill and Margaret Oberteuffer told of Christmas in Mexico and climbing Orizaba. Winter climbs were scheduled for Mount St. Helens with Roland Emitaz and Carmie Dafoe; west side of Mt. Hood with Gil Staender, Three Fingered Jack with Jim Angell. Feb 17: A special program on climbing in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru was held in Lloyd Center auditorium by Bob Pierce, Dave Jensen and Dean Caldwell. New members were Paul Adcock, Douglas and Nancy Bradley, Jeffrey Dotter, Dr. John Mitchem, Mrs. William Morris, Richard Ryding, James Snow.
1915—100 YEARS AGO
Reviewing Mt. Shasta 1915 Annual Outing by Jerry E. Bronaugh. Although the Mazamas is devoted to exploration of snow peaks and other mountains of the Pacific Northwest, we have visited it twice. In 1904, 17 registered for the outing there, and in 1915 a group of 76 went to California to conquer its 14,162-foot summit. At 6 p.m. on Saturday, July 10, 1915, the Mazama party boarded a special train in Portland to tear up the Willamette Valley at terrific speed and up over the Siskiyous to arrive at Sisson by noon. The eight-miles to the outing camp site was dotted with climbers slogging along a trail surrounded by underbrush of chaparral, bemoaning the heat. Water bubbled from a spring at Horse Camp, but Outing Committee chairman, Anderson, saw the need to avoid the deep snow there. He selected a scenic site a mile south. There was no water there, but they could melt snow for H2O. Red Butte stood on the right of camp and Shastina’s cinder cone to the left. Wednesday, July 14: An unofficial party climbed the peak under the lead of C.V. Luther, but they did not sign the summit register, because they could not determine which of the two high points was the summit. One point was Shasta Peak and the other was McLean Peak (50 feet lower). Mazama member, R.W. Ayer, was scheduled to lead the official outing party on Friday. In the evening, he told the climbers what to expect and advised them about food and clothing they would need. At 3 a.m. the next morning, 37 climbers had finished breakfast and organized their backpacks. About half of them were women. By 11 a.m. one lady quit at Thumb Rock, and at noon the other 36 stood on the summit in triumph. They signed in at the Mazama summit box and enjoyed looking north into Oregon and east into Nevada. It was the largest party of climbers on the summit up to that time. Then came a two-mile snow slide back to camp to enjoy the meal cooked by chef Watson. Author Bronaugh neglected to list the full names and a full list of the climbers.
MARCH 2015 13
UPCOMING OPPORTUNITIES
MAZAMA LEADERSHIP COHORT: BUILD YOUR OWN PATH
MT. HOOD NATIONAL FOREST NEEDS YOUR HELP! Please join us for our Fall Tree Planting Event, hosted by the Conservation Committee. ▶▶ When: April 4 ▶▶ Where: We will meet at the MMC and carpool to the Sandy River Basin/Zigzag Area ▶▶ Why: The Mazamas are committed to becoming a carbon neutral organization and working to help sequester CO2 emissions. We are also committed to being good stewards of the environment, especially the fragile ecosystem around Mt. Hood, where we were founded and continue to organize classes, climbs, and hikes for hundreds of outdoor enthusiasts every year. One of the best ways we can meet these goals is by participating in tree planting events in the Mt. Hood National Forest. We are proud to join our community partner, Sandy River Basin Watershed Council, for a fun day giving back to the forest and helping restore native vegetation. Sgn up by sending an email to conservation@mazamas.org or calling the MMC office at 503-227-2345.
We are seeking nominations and applications for the second annual Mazama Leadership Cohort. Are you interested in learning more about yourself as a leader? Do you know someone who would be a great leader, but doesn’t know where to start? The Mazama Leadership Cohort is a FREE five-session program designed for those who are passionate about the outdoors and who would like to identify their own leadership capabilities and strengths through opportunities at the Mazamas. This is the second year of the course, which first ran in 2014. The program introduces participants to the core leadership skills and qualities that make an effective leader in any role. The course also helps participants explore additional skills depending on areas of interest within the organization. This year, class sessions consist of minimal lecture time and a great deal of small group exercises and projects. Each participant will have the support of a current Mazama leader as a mentor. Please nominate someone who you have seen demonstrating natural leadership skills; or consider applying if you would like to learn more about your own leadership style, and/or would like to explore leadership opportunities at the Mazamas. HOW: Please nominate a fellow leader, or apply for the cohort yourself, using the form at this link: http://goo.gl/nmGPgY WHEN & WHERE: ▶▶ Kickoff potluck: Monday, May 18 (MMC) ▶▶ Class 1: Wednesday, May 20 (MMC) ▶▶ Class 2: Wednesday, May 27 (MMC) ▶▶ Class 3: Monday, June 1 (MMC) ▶▶ Class 4: Wednesday, June 3 (MMC) ▶▶ Capstone Weekend: Saturday–Sunday, June 6–7 (Lodge)
The Leadership Cohort promises to be a great time and a wonderful way to connect with your community of outdoor enthusiasts who are interested in exploring the path of leadership. To learn more, contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org.
BASIC ROCK SKILLS
Do you need to brush up on your basic rock climbing skills such as knots, tying in, climbing commands, belaying, rappelling, prusiking, passing protection on a fixed line and cleaning a top rope anchor? Join us on the instructional climbing walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. You do not need to be a Mazama member to register for these climbing clinics. ▶▶ Upcoming Dates: March 13, April 17, May 20, June 17; 6–9 p.m. ▶▶ Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center ▶▶ Time: 6–9 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $15 per evening clinic. ▶▶ Register: mazamas.org/education-classes/basic-rock-skills/ ▶▶ Required Gear: Climbing harness, 3 locking and 2 non-locking carabiners, belay device, climbing helmet, personal protection (sometimes called a personal leash), prusik cord, and rock shoes or climbing boots. You can rent rock shoes and other gear at The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th). 14 MAZAMA BULLETIN
2015 | MAZAMA
Used Equipment Sale
EXPEDITION GRANTS
FRIDAY, MARCH 20, 2015 ▶▶ 5–6 p.m.: Sale for Mazama members and students in climb classes ▶▶ 6–9 p.m.: Sale open to the general public ▶▶ Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC), SE 43 Ave. and Stark Street WHAT DO WE SELL AND WHAT MIGHT YOU FIND? EVERYTHING IN HIKING, CAMPING, MOUNTAINEERING AND XC SKIING FROM A TO Z! Axes. Backpacks, Books, Boots and Belay Devices. Carabiners and Crampons. Daisy Chains. Essentials—All 10 of ‘Em. Fleece and Friends, Gortex®, Gloves and Gaiters. Hats. Ice Tools. Jackets. Knives. Lockers and Liners. Mittens. Nalgene® Bottles. Overmitts. Polypro, Pads and Parkas. Quick Draws. Rain Gear. Snowshoes and Stoves. Sleeping Bags. Shovels. Trekking Poles and Tents. Underwear. Vests. Wands and Water Filters, XC (no Downhill) Skis, Poles and Boots. Yaktrax®. Zipper pulls ... and More!
Font: Rick Lobster Regular Mazama Blue
WHAT SHOULD YOU DO IF YOU’D LIKE TO SELL SOME GEAR? ▶▶ Set reasonable (low) prices for saleable equipment or clothing you aren’t using or have upgraded recently and it will sell; you’ll keep 70 percent of all proceeds. ▶▶ Items for sale should be clean and have some usable life left in them. ▶▶ Pick up sale tags and affix them to all of your sale items. Tags, tally sheets & seller info sheets are available at the MMC during normal business hours. It is strongly advised that you tag your items prior to dropping them off at the MMC the day before the sale. ▶▶ You can drop of sale items on March 19 from 4–8 pm. (Tags, tally sheets, and seller info sheets
will be available in the MMC lobby, but things will be very hectic). Untagged items will be treated as donations. ▶▶ Pick up unsold items Saturday, March 21 from 3–7 p.m. All unclaimed items will be donated to charity. WHAT SHOULD YOU DO IF YOU’D LIKE TO BUY SOME GEAR? ▶▶ Mark your calendars for Friday, March 20 ▶▶ Plan to come early for best selection. ▶▶ Mazamas accepts cash, checks or Visa®/MasterCard®. WARM CLOTHING COLLECTION We are collecting warm clothing for Fish Emergency Services to distribute to Portland’s needy. To donate items, please drop them off at the MMC on Wednesday, March 18. VOLUNTEERS We still need volunteers for the event. You can sign up to help on Thursday, March 19 for check in, at the event on Friday, March 20 or on Saturday, March 21 for cleanup: https://sites.google.com/site/ uesmazama/
by Ron Fridell The goal of the Mazama Expedition Committee is to encourage and support Mazama expeditions around the world. This year the Mazamas provided expedition grants to the following locations. ▶▶ Yellowstone Ice Explorations, South Fork of the Buffalo: The South Fork is littered with spires and unexplored ice lines that according to Thomas Turiano, the author of Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone, remain completely untouched. ▶▶ Avellano Valley, Chile: This attempt will be on one of the largest unclimbed faces in Patagonia. The objective, alpine style, is the most prominent face in the Avellano Valley, which is over 3,000 feet. ▶▶ Southwest Ridge of Alaska’s Peak 11,300: Harvard Route, Mt Huntington, Tokositna Glacier, Alaska (ridge in center of picture) ▶▶ Tordrillo Mountains of Alaska: Untouched granite paradise said to be “the most beautiful and aweinspiring alpine environment I have ever seen”. Let’s increase the Mazama presence in the mountains of the world! Go to our website and apply for one of next year’s grants. Also, look for this year’s grant recipient trip reports in the Bulletin, Annual or at a Wednesday night program. Top: Southwest Ridge of Alaska’s Peak 11,300. Bottom: Unclimbed NW Face of Jezebel Peak in Alaska’s Revelation Mountains.
WHO IS ORGANIZING THE USED EQUIPMENT SALE (UES) AND CAN ANSWER QUESTIONS? Contact: Meg Linza at ues@ mazamas.org. For more information go to the Mazamas website. mazamas.org/ event-calendar/event/1913/201503-20/
MARCH 2015 15
EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS
Trek, Climb, and Hike— without leaving Portland Wednesday Programs begin at 7 p.m., and are free and open to Mazamas and the general public. We do appreciate a voluntary contribution at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: Nancy Bentley March (Co-chair), John Leary (Co-chair), Dyanne Foster, Ben Jones, Sharon Leary and Gail O’Neill.
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YOSEMITE CLIMBER STEWARDS—MARCH 4
In September 2014 Adam Baylor, Mazama Stewardship & Advocacy Manager, met with a team of Advanced Rock graduates in Yosemite National Park for eight days of climbing and trail work. This program was supported by the Yosemite Conservancy, Park Rangers and Trail Crew. It will be offered again in 2015 and is open to all Mazamas whether you climb or hike. This is your chance to give back to the greatest national park on Earth! Join the Climber Stewards for an evening of storytelling about Yosemite!
CONNECTING THE SPOTS: SNOW LEOPARDS IN TAJIKISTAN—MARCH 11
In the summer of 2014 Tara Meyer of the Yale School of Forestry and Environmental Studies traveled to an area in western Tajikistan little-known to the western world to conduct her master’s research on snow leopards. Not only did Tara and her team document snow leopards for the first time in the region using camera traps and DNA, but they explored a rugged and beautiful mountain range rich with plant life, sweet mountain springs, hot springs and wildlife. Join Tara on March 11th as she shares her research, photos and stories from her travels searching for the “ghost cat” in Tajikistan’s Hissar Range.
March
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A WINTER ASCENT: A MULTIMEDIA TRIP TO THE COLD—MARCH 18
Join Hudson Henry and Andy Adkins for a sneak peek of the film “An American Ascent.” This award winning documentary chronicles the first African American team to take on Denali: North America’s highest peak.
WAKE UP!—MARCH 25
March
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The Ruth Gorge of Alaska is home to a plethora of classic lines and stunning peaks—the names of which you’ll quickly learn and chant quietly to yourself as you fly in awe over them for the first time. When you set your sights on this landscape it inspires a strong reaction; be it a sense of belonging or intimidation, you’re humbled to be in its presence. Rebecca Schob and Brad Farra tackled an ice and snow line on Mt. Wake last April. Join them March 25—and hear tales of thin alpine ice conditions, sugar snow wallowing, crevasse self-rescue and more, all squashed into less than 45 hours from landing on the glacier back to Talkeetna, AK. March
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503.684.9698
16 MAZAMA BULLETIN
REGIS KRUG
HIKE LEADER PROFILE
Hike Leader and Trail Trips Committee Co-Chair ▶▶Residence: Wilsonville ▶▶Hometown: St. Marys, PA ▶▶When and how did you become involved with the Mazamas? I started hiking in 2007 and joined the Mazamas in 2009 to find like-minded souls and to climb Mt. Hood. ▶▶ What are your favorite climbs/hikes? Larch Mountain any time of the year. ▶▶ What climbs/hikes are you most looking forward to this year? Nine days of hiking every point over 4,000 ft. in the Gorge. ▶▶ Best climbing memory: One day
summit of Mt. Adams ▶▶ Future climbing goals? Mt. Hood, Mt. Whitney, Kilimanjaro. ▶▶ Favorite piece of gear you won’t leave home without: GPS, but really, my 20 Essentials. A few of my regular hikers say that all they need to bring on their hikes are water, snacks, and Regis. ▶▶ Guiding principle/philosophy: The Golden Rule, Pay it Forward, Life is short, have fun. ▶▶ Favorite leader treat? Chocolate Chip/ Oatmeal Raisin cookies. ▶▶ Most influential book: Seven Habits of Highly Effective People taught me to not worry about what I can’t control or influence. Unfortunately, bad drivers still annoy me. ▶▶ Favorite quote: Walk your own walk.
▶▶ Favorite website: www. mappingsupport.com/p/gmap4 ▶▶ Words that best describe you: laid back/intense. ▶▶ Most treasured possessions: Memories ▶▶ Pet peeves: Bad drivers. ▶▶ Favorite vacation spot: Caribbean. ▶▶ When you aren’t on the mountain, where are people likely to find you? On a trail looking for a waterfall, or with my family. ▶▶ Hobbies other than hiking/climbing: Photography—shooting waterfalls & the mountains, woodworking—making Arts & Crafts style furniture and clocks. ▶▶ Occupation: Manager of a team of Technical Writers for a large software company—31 years.
MARCH 2015 17
CLASSIC MAZAMAS
Stay Connected with Classics With 25 years or more of Mazama membership, or those who prever a more leisurely pace, Classics lead a variety of year-round activities at a relaxed and flexible pace. All ages are welcome to join the fun. LEADING EVENTS IN APRIL If you are interested in leading an event inApril, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert at gilbertrosemarie@centurylink.net or 503762-2357, Dick Miller at 503-590-3598, or Lanning Russell at lanning616@gmail.com or 503-775-1164 by March 12 so they can include it in the April Bulletin. HERE ARE SOME MARCH AND APRIL HIKING DATES FROM DAVID CHRISTOPHER. ▶▶ Monday, March 2—Hike: Eagle Creek High Bridge Out/Back ▶▶ Monday, March 16—Hike: Salmon River Viewpoint Out/Back ▶▶ Monday, April 6—Hike: Dog Mountain Loop David is planning a 5-day backpack around South Sister. See details in this article. WEDNESDAY, APRIL 15: PRE-PROGRAM SOCIAL AND VEGGIE SNACK SHARING, 6:15 P.M. AT THE MMC Meet downstairs, Room 1, for tea, coffee, and healthy veggie snacks before Bill Sullivan presents his new book on hiking Eastern Oregon. Please bring a healthy vegie snack and recipe to share.
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THURSDAY, APRIL 16 LINNTON TRAIL IN FOREST PARK OUT/BACK HIKE Leader: Dick Miller. This is perhaps the shortest hike you will ever find offered by the Classic Mazamas. It is a beautiful hike, located near the westerly end of Forest Park. The trail was reconstructed and opened by a small group of Mazama Trail Tenders in 2004 after it was washed out for many years. It begins on Highway 30 near the old town of Linnton and goes uphill for one-half mile to a firelane which connects to other trails. One feature of the trail is a reinforcedconcrete footbridge over Abbey Creek, built by the Mazamas, which should withstand 500-year floods. Meet at the trailhead at l0:30 a.m. It is at a bus-stop turnout on Highway 30, about 300 yards easterly of l07th Ave. Parking is limited, so it is better to park in Linnton, then cross the highway at the light at 107th, and hike back to the trailhead. Or even better, you can take Tri-Met bus No. l6 from downtown at Oak Street to the stop at l07th. Buses run about every 30 minutes and the ride takes about 45 minutes. Allow a few minutes for the short walk to the trailhead. This will be a slow-pace hike. Upon return, those who wish to join will have lunch at the Decoy Cafe on the corner of 107th and Highway 30. If you have any questions, give Dick a call at 503-590-3598.
SEPT.28–OCT. 2: CIRCLE SOUTH SISTER Here are full details of a backpacking trip tentatively being planned by David R. Christopher. Watch the deadline for indications of interest.
Dates: Sept. 28–Oct. 2 Deadline to indicate interest: May 1 ▶▶ Pole Creek trailhead to Camp Lake: 7.4 miles (ascent/descent not recorded) ▶▶ Begin around noon after driving from PDX ▶▶ Camp Lake to Hinton Creek area: 7.8 miles, 723 ft. ascent/1,610 ft. descent* ▶▶ Hinton Creek to Moraine Lake: 6.02 miles 1,115 ft. ascent/586 ft. descent* ▶▶ Moraine Lake to Park Meadow: 8.24 miles, 1,192 ft. ascent/1,543 ft. descent* ▶▶ Park Meadow to Pole Creek: 7.18 miles, 402 ft. ascent/1,044 ft. descent* ▶▶ Arrive at trailhead around 1 p.m. to drive home *This is total number of feet ascended and descended, i.e. as trail goes up and down (as much with a Garmin GPS can accomplish this task). Note: The planned pace is steady and leisurely, not fast. If you are a fast hiker, you won’t enjoy going on this trip. If you decide to join us, please send me some background information regarding your backpacking experience. David R. Christopher • Email: david.r.christopher@gmail.com • Snail Mail: 14600 SE Aldridge Road, Portland, OR, 97086
MAZAMA FAMILIES
Keeping up with the Kids!
Families Mountaineering 101 is at the halfway point and Families Committee is continuing to add more activities to their schedule. Check it out. “If I fall into a crevasse with my crampons on and need to use my foot prusik to climb the rope to get out, will my crampons cut the rope?” Sam, age 10. “Should we then take our crampons off ?” Miles, age 10. The young students of Families Mountaineering 101 (FM 101) are keeping us on our toes and sending us back to Freedom of the Hills to find answers to their insightful questions! They are showing us time and time again that they are engaged and truly understanding the material. Not only are the kids grasping some pretty advanced concepts and systems, they are asking for more and are ready to put in the work needed to continue their learning. Some quick updates on the class: We have moved on from our outdoor rock sessions but are continuing to practice such skills at the MMC as belaying and rapelling. Quite a few kids have decided to further their climbing skills by practicing at the gym or joining a climbing team. The Navigation session was a big success thanks to John Godino! The FM 101 students put their map and compass skills to use finding their way around Mt. Tabor. And of course no class would be complete without First Aid. Though the curriculum was scaled to offer more of an introduction, the students learned a solid foundation of how to assess an injury situation, seek help and keep an injured person safe and warm while waiting for help. Snow. Still waiting for some! In the meantime our snow
camping session has been postponed, but the FM 101 class has made the most of the season so far by practicing walking with crampons and using an ice axe (with the adze well-taped). Students have learned how to self-arrest and glissade and are now chomping at the bit to climb a mountain! Justin Rotherham is the Lead Coordinator for FM101 next year and the info meeting will be held in June with signups starting on June 29. If you have any questions about the class, this year or next, please contact Bob and/or Justin at FM101@ mazamas.org. Outside of FM 101, the Families Group has been growing with new activities and the families are having a blast! A group of six families recently braved the rainy weather and had a great time at the South Beach Yurts. Activities included visiting the Aquarium and Sea Lions on Yaquina Bay, walks on
Top: FM101 student, Sarah, practicing snow skills near Timberline. Photo: Jen Travers. Bottom: FM101 students practicing first aid skills. Photo: Henry Kofron.
the beach, camp fires, group breakfasts, a Rogue Brewery tour and dinner. The amazing Rumfords are hosting another campout in April at Cottonwood Canyon State park along the lower John Day River. Please consider joining us at this beautiful location! Bill Stein will be leading two optional hikes over the
weekend. Visit our webpage to register. For more information on Mazama Families and upcoming events visit mazamafamilies.org (also found under “activities + events” on www.mazamas.org). To join our email list please drop us a line at families@mazamas. org. Welcome!
MARCH 2015 19
20S & 30S MAZAMAS
Devil’s Lake Yurt Weekend & More!
You have many fun adventures to choose from this month with 20s & 30s! Many Mazamas think of March solely as the beginning of BCEP, and they are not wrong! However, there are still chances to get involved with the 20s and 30s Mazamas if you are not in the BCEP crowd. Check our website for updated postings (mazamas.org/activitiesevents/20sand30s/). Now is a particularly good time to get involved with our committee and become a Hike Leader! You know you want to be an active volunteer with the Mazamas, even if it starts with the motivation to get accepted on
20 MAZAMA BULLETIN
that climb you are applying for! In the meantime, this month could be your introduction (or re-introduction) to sport climbing. While we haven’t had a very cold winter, the nights at ClubSport and Planet Granite offer an escape from the rain and fog to build your strength and stamina in the off-season as you ramp up for spring climbs. And if you are looking for a weekend away of fun to connect with other 20s and 30s Mazamas, look no farther! The Devil’s Lake Yurt Weekend is surely for you.
Hikers on Netarts Spit. Photo: Matt Reeder.
MONDAY, MARCH 2: CLIMB NIGHT 6:30–10 p.m. at ClubSport
Join us for indoor rock climbing! We’ll have a supportive and beginnerfriendly atmosphere to climb in with your friends and an opportunity to make some new ones. Don’t have a regular belay partner? Come by—we can usually pair you up with someone for the evening. Families are also welcome! You don’t need your own gear, you can rent a harness and/or rock shoes at ClubSport. For newcomers, we would encourage you to take an introductory rock climbing class (offered at ClubSport and other rock gyms in the Portland area) to learn belaying, signals and knot-tying. Climb Night is not a learnto-belay class. We cannot teach first-timers to belay, but we can help you get on the wall for the first time and introduce you to climbing! Climb Night is a great way to get practice bouldering as well as top-roping. Cost: $12/person.
various trails in the area— area highlights include sea stacks and tidepools, huge meadows overlooking the rugged coastline, glorious old growth, and a perhaps a brew pub or two! Cost for the weekend is $20 members/$30 non-members (includes yurt fee for Friday and Saturday night). Advance sign-up required; group will be limited to twelve. Detailed prospectus will be sent to participants. Leaders: Matt Reeder (mareede@gmail. com) and Karl Langenwalter (klangen@gmail.com). WEDNESDAY, MARCH 18: CLIMB NIGHT 6:30–10 p.m. at Planet Granite Our monthly evening of rock climbing at Planet Granite in the Pearl. Cost: $18/person.
Ready to get more involved with 20s and 30s Mazamas? We are looking for Climb Night Hosts and Hike Leaders:
FRI-SUN, MARCH 6–8: DEVIL’S LAKE YURT WEEKEND This trip will fill. Contact leaders to get on waitlist!
CLIMB NIGHT HOSTS Indoor rock climbing is held once-a-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners.
Visit beaches, rocky shoreline and booming winter surf on a weekend trip to one of the best parts of the Oregon coast. No camping for us, we’ll instead be roughing it in yurts equipped with heat, lights & electricity at the Devil’s Lake State Park. We’ll head down Friday evening and spend the weekend hiking
HIKE LEADERS Do you like leading hikes? Maybe you’d like to plan a trip for caving, backpacking, skiing, orienteering, or trail running! Becoming an activity leader takes just few steps—become a Mazama Member, lead a provisional activity and get first aid certified.
MAZAMA LODGE NEWS
Plan your Lodge Visit Exciting events are happening at Mazama Lodge during Spring Break. Make your reservations today! SPRING BREAK Mazama Lodge will be open from Thursday, March 19 at noon, until Monday, March 30 at noon. On Tuesday and Wednesday, March 24 and 25, family movies will be shown on the big screen, complete with popcorn. WINTER FAMILY DAY MOVES TO SPRING! As a reminder, Winter Family Festival has been rescheduled to Saturday, March 28. We are
hoping that spring brings more snow than winter has to date. Events are scheduled from noon until 8 p.m. Twenty-seven year old mountaineer Linsey Warren, the youngest climber to reach the 100 highest peaks in Washington state, will finish the day by sharing her adventures climbing the hundred highest peaks in Washington State, the equivalent of climbing Mt. Everest sixteen times. Linsey will speak from 7:30–8:30 p.m.
Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.
Manager: Charles Barker Caretakers: Aaron & Brett 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
GOODBYE, CORN SYRUP Many Mazamas joined the organization to challenge themselves physically, and with that comes eating nutritiously. We are no longer serving processed pancake syrup and are now making our own fruit and honey syrup. Mini bottles of real maple syrup will be available for sale at the front desk for $4.
Top: Guest speaker Linsey Warren will speak at the Lodge on Saturday, March 28 at 7:30 p.m. Bottom: Recently a group of teenagers had a great time celebrating their friend’s 13th birthday at the lodge! Photo: Charles Barker.
Sunny Freeman sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes
Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038
Your Mazama Realtor MARCH 2015 21
OUTINGS—LOCAL, NATIONAL, INTERNATIONAL
Go Exploring in 2015! The Mazamas regularly leads outings, both foreign and domestic, for members and nonmembers to experience other cultures, ecosystems, mountain ranges, and the natural world in a safe and affordable manner. OLYMPICS NATIONAL PARK HIKING June 20–27: Full—Alternates Only
See the December 2014 Mazama Bulletin for full details.
HIKING NORWAY’S WESTERN FJORDLAND July 22–Aug. 2: Full—Waiting List
See the December 2014 Mazama Bulletin for full details.
CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING July 11–27
Nestled near the border of Switzerland, Italy and France, lies the birthplace of alpine mountaineering, Chamonix, France. We’ll be there during the peak alpine climbing season. This will be a strenuous outing with daily climbing opportunities. Participants should be Mazama Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) graduates or equivalent (Advanced school graduates or equivalent preferred). Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+. Participants should have a good fitness level as a large portion of the alpine climbs start at 11,000 feet. Outing cost will be $2,200 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains and cable cars are included). Food cost, hut fees and the Midi-Hellbronner gondola not included. For full details go to the website. Contact leader Lee Davis, lee@mazamas.org or assistant leader, Lisa Brady, pdxlisa@gmail. com, for more information.
OREGON COAST HIKING August 10–16
Based out of South Beach State Park, we will hike approximately 60 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Lincoln Beach. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of 22 MAZAMA BULLETIN
the trail. Other hikes in the area may also be offered. Hikers wanting a break can also visit local attractions such as the Oregon Coast You could enjoy this scenery if you travel to the Canadian Rockies. Aquarium. Participants are responsible Next we travel north on the Ice Fields for making their own transportation, lodging/ Parkway to Mt. Athabasca. We have the camping arrangements, and meals; and option to climb this via a B-level glacier route. can come for fewer than seven days if they Optionally, there is day hiking in the area for wish. Outing cost will range from $90–$145 those not wanting to climb. We move further depending on the number of participants. to Jasper National Park for two more days of A $100 deposit is required with sign-up by day hikes. July 15, 2015. (Participants should make site Participants should be able to carry a reservations ASAP if they are planning to backpack with five days food and all gear. For stay at South Beach SP.) Contact leader Joe those climbing Mt. Athabasca, they should Whittington, joewhittington@gmail.com , or have at least BCEP or ICS level training and assistant leader Skip Smith, bs_as3457@yahoo. have climbed Mt. Hood or similar glaciated com, for more details. peaks.
JOHN MUIR TRAIL TREK
Aug. 28–Sep. 10: Full—Alternates Only See the January 2015 Mazama Bulletin or our website for full details.
CANADIAN ROCKIES HIKING AND CLIMBING Dates: Aug. 8-22, 2015
Join us on a 14-day camping, hiking, backpacking, and climbing outing to the Canadian Rockies. We will visit Banff, Jasper, and Mt. Assiniboine Parks. We will start in Banff with four days of scenic hiking around Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and the mountains above the town itself. We may do some easy scramble peaks. The group will car camp in one of Banff National Park’s campgrounds. Next, we explore Mt. Assiniboine Provincial Park, south of Banff, for five days. We will backpack 17 miles into lovely Lake Magog, then day hike beneath Matterhorn-like Mt Assiniboine in verdant flower-filled meadows. Depending on availability, we may be able to stay at primitive cabins or otherwise tent camp.
Costs: Estimated $410 to $510 for group size of 6 to12 (including leaders). Camping and Mazama fees included. Participants responsible for transportation, food, park entry costs. Fees in excess of actual campsites’ cost will be refunded. A $100 deposit is due June 15, 2015. For more information, contact leader Bob Breivogel: breivog@teleport.com.
Want to go on an outing? Contact the
leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers— seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club— outdoors.org and the American Alpine Club— americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.”
MAZAMA AFFILIATE OUTINGS HUT-TO-HUT TRAVERSE OF THE TRANSYLVANIAN ALPS IN ROMANIA July 31–Aug. 9, 2015
There will be an informational meeting at the MMC on March 5 at 7 p.m. The coolest place you never knew Join us on you wanted to go! In partnership with March Mountain Hiking Holidays: Join us on 5 get mo to a challenging and memorable “hut to re details hut” adventure in the high Carpathians ! of central Romania, also known as the Transylvanian Alps. Complete an exciting multi-day traverse along the main ridge of the Făgăraş Mountains--one of the longest continuous high mountain traverses in Europe. The traverse will take you over Romania’s three highest peaks (Moldoveanu, 8,350 feet; Negoiu, 8,317 feet; and Viştea Mare, 8,291 feet). Round out your Romania adventure with visits to the splendid medieval town of Sighisoara (a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site), and a sampling of Transylvania’s treasury of castles, monasteries, and fortified Saxon churches. Trip price: $3,595. More details: http://www.mountainhikingholidays. com/romania_hut-to-hut.htm Contact: info@ mountainhikingholidays.com
ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TREKKING TOUR Oct. 26–Nov. 13, 2015
Every trekker’s dream trip in the heart of the Himalaya. In partnership with Embark Adventures: Journey with us to a place that will be physically, emotionally, and mentally compelling. From jungle to Tibetan plateau you’ll trek 13 days from Pokhara to Annapurna Base Camp via the amazing remote valley locked deep in the heart of the Annapurna range, all the while encountering the amazing Nepali people. This trek begins at the awe-inspiring lake city of Pokhara. You’ll travel on foot through several iconic villages, including Thakali, Magar and Gurung, coming to rest finally at Annapurna Base Camp, elevation 13,800 feet. The trip is 19 days and includes time in Kathmandu and Pokhara. $2,995. Contact Donovan@ Embarkadventures.com. Trip leader: Jim Ronning, Mazama member. MARCH 2015 23
FEATURED PEAK
Dreaming of Summer Rock Liberty Bell, 7,720 ft., Becky Route by Barry Maletzky It’s as if one of those enormous thing-a mig-jigs from the horrid movie series Transformers metamorphosed into an all-metallic moving van, visited Yosemite Valley, and plucked up three or four Lost Arrow Spires, then transported them to the North Cascades, plopping them down just a mile or so southwest of Highway 20 right off Washington Pass. That’s really what it looks like when you make a right turn in your vehicle as you approach the pass and stifle a gasp as you try to comprehend the sheer vertical towers, walls and spires confronting your view. Though there are enough spines and buttresses to give you neck cramps gazing upwards, three stand out for sheer but beautiful brutality: the two early Winter Spires to the east of the pass and, in splendid isolation to the southwest, Liberty Bell, this last unmistakable, as it truly resembles its famed Philadelphia namesake in shape, though far exceeds it in its abrupt architecture. Sure, you expect rows of jagged peaks, glacier-fed streams, waterfalls, and the frequent flower-strewn meadows of the North Cascades, but seemingly blank walls bald as a baby’s skin on 1,000-ft. towers? Incredible, but not unapproachable. The Mazama B and C climber who may shudder at the sight of such monoliths should realize that accessible routes do exist on these granidiorite skyscrapers and, with proper guidance, the weekend mountain adventurer can achieve 24 MAZAMA BULLETIN
success on a number of mid-5th class routes on all these spires. The rock is generally adhesive and tighter than a welterweight’s stomach, and holds will miraculously appear just when you think the only thing left to grab is the rope or that last piece of pro (yes, I’ve done it too). Perhaps the most friendly introduction to these towers is the Becky Route on Liberty Tower. Do not be alarmed by its name—it does not require Fred Becky-like skills to ascend. It was simply named after Fred once he made its first climb back in 1946— in tennis shoes! Back then, the approach required a 16-mile pack-in from the Early Winters Campground from the east. Today, it’s a 1½ mile trek with a day pack on the Blue Lake Trail beginning at a pullout on the highway one mile west of Washington Pass. From a meadow at that point on the trail, a rough but visible climber’s path leads to an easy gully (hard hats!) which attains the col between Concord Tower to the south and the southwest face of Liberty Bell and the Becky Route. The first pitch traverses left into a gully (5.2), past a chockstone (solid) ledges (not too exposed) and small trees (if trees can stand there, so can I; at least that’s what I thought). The second pitch climbs a steep chimney (5.6 – good stemming and holds) to a ledge and alcove, where a belay is welcomed. From here, the climbing eases a bit until you reach a finger crack. Above, I found no need to panic despite what appeared to be a roof larger than the ones I’d seen on Chinese temples; friction climbing left (5.6) allows one to reach around a corner where “Thank God” ledges mercifully appear. Nonetheless, you still face, after a brief 4th-class scramble, the final obstacle. (Why is there always one?) Here, a 5.7 friction move over a steep set of boulders brings one to the actual summit. The descent
usually involves down-climbing a left-leaning ramp to reach two 80-foot rappels, some of the most spectacular and scenic you will ever undertake and a bit of each can be accomplished free if you wish. Please don’t let the mid-5th-class grades deter you. The average once-a-week climber or even the B or C climber who gets out a few times a year can accomplish this climb. But always go with a leader who can belay you up, get you to the rappel anchors, and get you down in one happy piece—and is familiar with the route. For more hardened rock veterans, other routes on Liberty Bell provide even more exciting challenges. They certainly carry more colorful names: Overexposure, The Thin Red Line, Serpentine Crack, the Barber Pole, Sidewinder, and the Independence Route. These 5.9 through 5.10 to A1 routes require at least ICS-level craft and dexterity or, better yet, Advanced Rock schooling. Routes on the neighboring Early Winter Spires are mostly in this latter category as well. Still, within a two third’s day drive of Portland, you can experience an achievable ascent of a true tower, minus the crowds, busses, and expense of a Yosemite trip and gain the added attraction of snow-clad peaks and green, flowery meadows quite lacking in our dry neighboring state to the south. And think of the hero shots you can bring home! To attempt these mid-5th-class climbs at first appears so intimidating that you may be reluctant to even try. But the true hero doesn’t always succeed. She falls and fails and tries again and again until she reaches the top. Don’t fear failure—be a hero and try.
Climbers on Liberty Bell. Photo: Bob Breivogel.
MARCH 2015 25
MEMBERSHIP REPORT
members
114 reinst
dec
83
d ate
sed ea
3 n resig ed
5 mbershi me
p
3,158
1, 2014 ership mb 40 3,2 n. 31, 201
5
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Micah Paulsen—Mt. St. Helens Jeff Perkins—Mt. Theilsen Camille Peterson—Mt. St. Helens Robert Peterson—Mt. St. Helens Trevis Peterson—Mt. St. Helens Christopher Polk—South Sister Ben Poynter—Mt. Adams Laura Ralich—South Sister Mike Ray—Mt. Hood Sean Robbins—South Sister Jeremiah Rooper—Mt. Adams Tamara Ross—South Sister Max Rudolph—Longs Peak Jennifer Sacklin—Mt. Hood Debra Sankovitz—South Sister Chaitanya Sathe—South Sister Will Schlosser—Mt. Hood James Schulz-Browning—South Sister Daksma Sharma—South Sister Rohan Sharma—South Sister Mitchell Silagy—Mt. Rainier Gregory Simons—Mt. Adams Nicole Sisco—South Sister Michael Smith—Mt. St. Helens Roger Smith—Mt. St. Helens Andrew Stone—Mt. Hood Michael Stout—Mt. Kilimanjaro James Tabor—Mt. St. Helens Johanna Thompson—Mt. St. Helens Charles Veneklase—Mt. Adams John Vivio—Mt. Hood Craig Warden—Mt. Kenya Lawrence Watercott—Mt. St. Helens Juergen Westermann—Mt. St. Helens Jordan Wheeler—Mt. St. Helens Travis Wittwer—Mt. Rainier Ethan Wood—South Sister Daren Zook—Mt. Adams Anne Zuercher—Mt. St. Helens
Ja
Lal Kerr—Middle Sister Craig Kilber—Mt. Rainier Sergey Kiselev—Mt. Rainier Steven Klein—South Sister Benjamin Klusman—Mt. St. Helens Jessica Knight—South Sister Stephen Korpi—Mt. St. Helens Grishma Kotecha—Mt. St. Helens James Krzmarzick—Mt. St. Helens Ben Larson—South Sister Sandor Lau—South Sister Blaine Layton—Mt. St. Helens Vincent Lee—Mt. Shasta David Levy—Mt. Adams Heather Longfellow—Mt. St. Helens Madeline Lowry Woods—South Sister Benjamin Magoun—Mt. Hood Irene Malinov—South Sister Dianna Martin-Peterson—Mt. St. Helens Samual Matz—Mt. Hood Tyler Mays—Middle Teton Walker McAninch-Runzi—South Sister Kevin McCarver—South Sister Simon McDowell—Mt. Hood Dale McKay—Mt. St. Helens Lara McLaughlin—Mt. St. Helens John McNulty—Mt Kilamanjaro Aaron Mendelson—Mt. Adams Jessica Miracle—Mt. St. Helens Justin Miracle—Mt. St. Helens Ashley Nelson—Mt. Adams Michael Nguyen—Mt. St. Helens Matthew Nightengale—Mt. Rainier Rachel Nolan—Mt. St. Helens Lucas Norris—Mt. Adams Theresa Odonnell—Mt. St. Helens Patrick Orr—Mt. St. Helens Chintan Panirwala—Mt. St. Helens
Jan. 3
Brett Allin—Mt. St. Helens Clayton Andrews—Mt. Hood Kalene Ardt—South Sister Nicholas Baer—Mt. St. Helens James Barnhart—Mt. St. Helens Calvin Beneck—Mt. St. Helens Robert Bondaruk—Mt. St. Helens Douglas Brittain—Mt. Adams Ken Cachelin—Mt. Adams Alivia Cetas—Mt. Hood Jacob Childers—Mt. St. Helens Kendra Childers—Mt. St. Helens Gowri Chitloor Parthasarathy—South Sister Alicia Chivers—Mt. Adams Tyleen Conrow—Mt. St. Helens Amarilis Cuaresma-zevallos—Mt. St. Helens Tim Dacey—South Sister Ralph Daub—South Sister Marie Dion—South Sister Robert Dormaier—Mt. Thielsen Thomas Doyle—Mt. Adams Kristi Easterlin—Mt. Hood Trevor Ellsworth—Mt. Shuksan Craig Francis—Mt. Hood Kristen Frank—Middle Sister Lily Frey—Kilimanjaro Tracy Gagnon—South Sister Kartikeya Goyal—Mt. St. Helens Rachit Gupta—Mt. St. Helens Anne Harris—Mt. St. Helens Regina Hauser—Mt. Shasta Paul Hernandez—South Sister Christopher Hicks—South Sister Jefferson Hungerford—Mt. Adams Mary Hunt—Mt. St. Helens Gabriel Hurley—Mt. Rainier Jacob Jirsa—Mt. Rainier
new
Welcome New Mazamas!
Deceased Donald Benedict, Dean Lee, Dasan Marshall
Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT. HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.
Counseling & Psychotherapy to address relationship issues, anxiety, depression, and unresolved loss or trauma 35 years experience Mazama since 2001 former member, CIDT
26 MAZAMA BULLETIN
Virginia Terhaar, Ph.D. virginiaterhaar.com 503-274-1945
Obituaries
DEAN D. LEE Dec. 2, 1941–Jan. 30, 2015 by Megan Johnson Dean D. Lee of Portland, Oregon died peacefully after succumbing to complications of dementia on Friday January 30, 2015. He was 73 years old. Dean was born December 2, 1941 in Detroit Lakes, Minnesota to Willard and Evelyn Lee. He was the first born of identical twins – with his brother Dale being the second born twin. After high school graduation Dean proudly served in the U.S. Navy for three years as a Morse code radio operator. He then graduated from St. Martin’s University in Lacey, WA with a degree in Accounting and retired from the U.S. Forest Service in 2003. Dean was an active mountain climb leader and hike leader with the Mazamas. When Dean joined the Mazamas in 1991 at the age of 50 he discovered a passion for mountain climbing. He kicked his smoking habit and dove deeply into climbing. As a climb leader, Dean loved filling his climbs with the maximum amount of 12 people and getting them all to the summit of Northwest mountains such as Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainer and Mt. Jefferson to name a few. He was especially careful in always having half of his climbs filled with women as he thought it made the team dynamics more fun and encouraged women to climb. Dean’s climbs and climbing education classes were legendary for their bonding and fun adventures. Dean is survived by his wife, Megan Johnson; his first wife, Ella, and their sons Michael, Darren, and Steven; his brother, Dale (Susan), his younger sister, Judy (Jim) and his younger brother, David (Kim); three grandchildren from Darren and Jodi Lee’s marriage, Haven, Gabriel and Ciena; and many nephews and nieces. Dean’s parents and one younger brother, Robert, preceded him in death. This is a condensed obituary; read the complete obit at: mazamaobits. blogspot.com.’s
FERENC FRANK GABOR Feb. 10, 1927–Feb. 1, 2015 from The Oregonian Ferenc passed away peacefully at home. Born in Hungary, he finished medical school and left during the Hungarian Revolution of 1956. While in urology residence at McGill University in Montreal, he met and married his wife, Reka. He worked in Alexandria, La., then moved to Portland and joined Kaiser Permanente in 1970. He was the residency program director in their Urology Dept. from 1974 to 1992, and head of the Urology Dept. at Interstate West until he retired in 1993 after a stroke. Ferenc was an avid folk dancer and skier. He enjoyed mountain climbing with his family and as a lead climber with the Mazamas. He is survived by his wife, Reka; sons Peter, Frank (Lee Anne) and George (Tish); and grandsons, Nicholas and Noah. With the Mazamas, Frank led 17 successful climbs between 1997 and 2000, and assisted with another four. He assisted a Mt. Jefferson climb via the Milk Creek Glacier when he was 73! He was also a leader with the Basic Climbing Education Program.
DASÁN SHANTIDES MARSHALL June 30, 1990–Jan.18, 2015 by Heidi Medema At 24, Dasan passed away doing what he loved, climbing mountains. On January 18th, while climbing Mt. Yukla, Dasan slipped and fell to his death. Mt. Yukla is located just outside of Anchorage, Alaska, where Dasan was Majoring in Outdoor Studies at Alaska Pacific University. He moved there in 2012, so he could continue his education, both in school and the mountains. His senior project was starting an alpine club for APU students. Dasan was also working as an ice climbing guide in the Wrangells and South Central Alaska. It has been said that Dassan was a student of climbing. If he wasn’t climbing, he was planning his next adventure, reading books, watching videos, or studying maps. That is part of the reason his untimely passing came as such a shock to all who knew him. The thing you need to know about Dasan is this: the great outdoors are where he was happiest. His climbing partner on that fateful day remembers hearing Dasan’s laughter fill the mountain air just moments before the fall. He loved the mountains. Athough a recent addition to the Mazama family, Dasan was a fixture in the Portland climbing community. He worked two seasons at Mountain Shop, and practically lived at Portland Rock Gym. In 2009, Dasan graduated from Portland Waldorf School. The Oregonian wrote, “He was remembered there as an enthusiastic student with an affinity for the outdoors and for art.” His teacher and academic advisor, Tracy Trefethen, described him perfectly when she said, “With Dasan there was no pretext. There was no mask. He was just himself, and he wasn’t apologetic about it. He could pull it off because he was just so earnest.” Dasan is survived by his parents, Bhadra and Glen, who were very supportive of their son’s passion. Friends are planning a climb of Mt Hood to celebrate Dasan’s short but full life in May. For more information visit the event page. Dasan’s climbing resume included: Ascents of Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. Baker, the West Buttress of Denali, multiple routes around Kahiltna Base Camp, Pike Glacier, and more in the Western Chugach MARCH 2015 27
TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE
Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open
to members and non-members alike. Contact Trail Trips Committee co-chair Terry Lawson at 503-819-9250 with any questions. To lead a hike in April, log on to the https://mazamas2. org. CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR NEW HIKES & UPDATES Check the website for new hikes and updates and other useful information: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas.org/hike for updates. The main page gives general information, which is elaborated upon in the blue Hiking-Quick Links box, where the hike schedule is found as well as valuable tips on what to bring in your pack, first aid supplies and clothing tips. 20S & 30S MAZAMAS ARE ALSO HIKING: Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activitiesevents/20sand30s WINTER HIKING SEASON In winter, dressing for the conditions using rain gear, layers, and appropriate clothing is important in reducing your risk of hypothermia. Be sure to read the important Mazama Hike Rules at the bottom of the main page. Leaders may refuse to accept participation by those they feel are unqualified or unprepared. MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS MEETUP Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and to receive reminders of hikes you have RSVP’d for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips has a number of hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at meetup. com/mazama-hiking/.
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HK B2.5 Feb 28 (Sat) Hardy Ridge Loop. Guy Wettstein, guywettstein@gmail.com or 503860-1696. This makes a good PreBCEP conditioner. Otherwise, it’s a moderate Gorge hike through the woods with a nice ridge summit. Contact leader for sign-up and details. 8 miles 2,200 ft. Dr. 84 State Park Gateway Transit Center NW Corner 7:30 a.m. MU HK C2.5 Feb 28 (Sat) Casey, Nick Eaton & Gorton Creeks. Adonay Solleiro, adonayvs@hotmail.com. You must contact leader if you have not hiked with him before. Wilderness–Limit 12. Excellent stamina builder that offers sore leg muscles, a pounding heart and gasping lungs. We’ll start at the Herman Creek trail, up Casey Creek, and down Nick Eaton and Gorton Creek. Bring appropriate winter clothing. 14 miles 4,000 ft. Dr. 90 State Park Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2.5 Mar 01 (Sun) Mt Talbert/Mt Scott. Meg Linza, 503502-8782. Urban trail up and over Mt. Talbert with a gain of 600 ft. elev. then down to Sunnyside Rd. and up to the stairs on Mt. Scott. Will travel through neighborhoods with little traffic and hope to have a view of the Willamette Valley from Hilltop on Mt. Scott before descending back to Mt. Talbert and the cars. 8 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. N/A Mt Talbert TH Mather Rd. 9 a.m. HK C2 Mar 01 (Sun) Table Mountain Loop. Sojo Hendrix, sojo42@gmail.com. Pre-BCEP Conditioning Hike Let’s kick-off March with some challenge, Gorge history, and great views. Whether you are training for BCEP this year or just training, this is an essential hike for you. 10 miles 3,650 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Mar 04 (Wed) Rudolph Spur Way Trail. Mark Fowler, markf@pacifier.com. Wilderness– Limit 12. Strenuous hike, up steep and unmaintained trail to Benson Plateau. Be prepared for snow on top, bring boot traction (micro spikes etc) and trekking poles. Contact leader if questions. 10.4 miles 3,900 ft. Dr. 78 MMC 7:30 a.m.
SS A Mar 06 (Fri) White River Moonlight Snowshoe. Joe Whittington, joewhittington@ gmail.com. Magical walk in the snow under a full moon with great views of Mt. Hood. We’ll walk up the Canyon about two miles and hang out to enjoy the ambiance. If the weather or snow conditions are bad, we’ll cancel in town. Please e-mail leader at joewhittington@ gmail.com for more information if you plan to go. 4.0 miles 200 ft. Dr. 126 SnoPark Gateway 6 p.m. MU HK A2 Mar 07 (Sat) Forest Park loop. Mark Sanzone, msanzone@ yahoo.com. Half day hike, done by noon. Alder–Lief–Wild Cherry. Meet at Wildwood TH on 53rd Ave. (3rd TH going N on 53rd) 4 miles 500 ft. Dr. 0 none 9 a.m. HK B2 Mar 07 (Sat) Indian Point via Gorton Creek Trail. Brett Nair, 503-847-9550. Wilderness– Limit 12. Fun will be had on this invigorating trip up to the incredibly scenic Indian Point. With luck we’ll have sunshine and see the gorge for miles. http:// www.portlandhikersfieldguide.org/ wiki/Indian_Point 8.9 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2.5 Mar 07 (Sat) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35. Tom Dodson, dodsontw@msn.com or 503-297-7912. Exploratory Wilderness–Limit 12. This has some of the best views of Mt. Hood. Come and explore the east side of the Hood River Valley and get off of some of the usual Gorge routes for a change. We may experience some snow, depending on how the weather evolves in February. Check with me by phone if you haven’t hiked with me before. 10.4 miles 2,975 ft. Dr. 136 Gateway 7 a.m. HK A2 Mar 08 (Sun) Big Stump (Forest Park). Terry Lawson, 503-819-9250. This loop combines portions of the Wildwood, Leif Erikson, and Hardesty Trails. It follows a small stream passing signs of old growth logging, including an enormous stump. Call leader if you would like to meet at trailhead. 6.2 miles 620 ft. Dr. 30 MMC. 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Mar 08 (Sun) Bald Butte.
Rex Breunsbach, (971) 832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Great views of Hood and Hood River valley. Hike up through the oak trees and along Surveyor Ridge. Poles and traction recommended. 8.4 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 144 Gateway Park & Ride 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Mar 08 (Sun) Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp Camp). Regis Krug, 503-704-6442 regis_ krug@mentor.com. Wilderness– Limit 12. This trail is usually in great shape but there are at least a half-dozen creek crossings with no bridges, and depending on how much rain we get, some of these may entail fording with wet feet. Be prepared for snow or rain. Exploratory. 14.6 miles 2,640 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway Transit Center SE corner 7 a.m. MU HK A2.5 Mar 11 (Wed) Reed Canyon & Beyond. Patty Pandzik, 503-890-9866. SE Portland urban hike combines Reed Canyon, Crystal Springs trail, Sellwood parks and neighborhoods. Group may choose to go at a 3 mph moving pace. Call or email ppandzik@icloud.com for info. 7.5 miles 350 ft. Dr. 0 Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden (6015 SE 28th) 9:30 a.m. MU HK C2 Mar 11 (Wed) Ruckel Ridge-Ruckel Creek Loop. Mark Fowler, markf@pacifier.com. Wilderness–Limit 12. Strenuous hike up Ruckel Ridge to the Benson Plateau. Your work on the stair climber will be rewarded here. Be prepared for snow on top, bring boot traction (micro spikes etc) and trekking poles. Call leader for questions or to sign-up. 9.6 miles 3,800 ft. Dr. 74 TH MMC 7:30 a.m. HK A2 Mar 13 (Fri) Hillsdale to the River Loop Walk. William O’Brien, 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. Nice walk from Hillsdale taking #3 trail down to Willamette Park, walking through the Park then returning by the #4 & #6 trail to Hillsdale. We leave at 9 a.m. Meet in the Wilson HS parking lot behind the bleachers. 5 miles 450ft Dr. 5 Park in streets adjacent to Hillsdale Town Center 9 a.m.
STREET RAMBLES HK A1.5 Mar 14 (Sat) Rowena Plateau. Carolyn Eckel, 503-251-5939. An early wildflower hike with the addition of 1/3 mile of the Tom McCall Point Tr. Insect repellent advised. 2.2 miles 260 ft. Dr. 130 Gateway 9 a.m. HK B2 Mar 14 (Sat) Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls). Dan Smith, 503408-8923. Wilderness–Limit 12. We will pass Tunnel Falls and onto CrossOver Falls on the way! Several other waterfalls on the way with great views. This is long hike to help you warm up to the strong hikes ahead. Call to save a spot, but will open up 6:50 a.m. if you are not there. Bring extra water! 12.6 miles 1,080 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 7 a.m. HK C2 Mar 14 (Sat) Horsetail to Wahkeena Traverse. Rick Craycraft, 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com. Wilderness–Limit 12. Celebrate Pi Day by taking a hike! This will be the 18th year in a row I’ve led this hike in March. Up and over Franklin Ridge. In and out of three watersheds. Maybe take a side trip to Nesika Lodge. Hike may be re-routed due to trail closures. Dress for the weather. Car shuttle. 12.2 miles 3,300 ft. Dr. 63 Gateway 7:30 a.m. OT B2 Mar 14 (Sat) Hard time Loop-Old Man Pass. Wayne Lincoln, 503-245-9193. Ski the Hard Time Loop. Upper Wind River. This route starts at Old Man Pass and travels up and down with some downhill glides through rolling forest and clear cuts. Intermediate skills. Washington snow park required. (I have one). Pray for snow. Please contact leader as destination may change with snow. 11 miles 700 ft ft. Dr. 140 SnoPark Gateway 8 a.m. HK A1 Mar 15 (Sun) SynclineLabyrinth Loop. Richard Getgen, teambears@frontier.com. Hike in the Catherine Creek area to see what wildflowers are blooming early in spring and take in the views. No sign-up list. 7.0 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 126 TH Gateway 8 a.m.
HK C2.5 Mar 15 (Sun) Table Mountain Loop. Adonay Solleiro, adonayvs@hotmail.com. You must contact leader to go on this hike. Excellent pre-BCEP conditioning hike! We’ll start at the Bonneville Trailhead, go up Heartbreak Ridge trail, and down the west side. 8 miles 3,650 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Mar 21 (Sat) WahkeenaMultnomah Creeks Loop. Terry Lawson, lawson.terry@gmail.com. This gorge classic features the rushing waters of Multnomah and Wahkeena Creeks and multiple falls. A short shuttle will be used if Trail 400 is still closed. 5.4 miles 1,700 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK C2 Mar 21 (Sat) Windy Dog. Larry Solomon, muensterhump@hotmail. com. First we’ll climb the Dog via the more scenic route. Then on to Wind Mountain and the historic Indian archaeological and cultural sites. 9.9 miles 4,000 ft. Dr. 104 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Mar 21 (Sat) Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls). Dan Smith, 503408-8923. Wilderness–Limit 12. This is strong hike and you should be in good shape! Call for a spot but will open up at 6:50 if you are not there. Waterfalls at the start and forest after that. Hope for 5 peak day. Bring extra water! 13.8 miles 4,100 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 7 a.m. HK B2 Mar 22 (Sun) Old Growth (Forest Park). Terry Lawson, 503819-9250. The hike includes some impressive old growth trees that have survived logging and fires. Contact leader if you wish to meet at trailhead. 8.74 miles 790 ft. Dr. 24 MMC 9 a.m. MU
Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain. Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet. Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details. prior to the day of the trip is mandatory. Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12. MU: Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe
HK B2.5 Mar 22 (Sun) Dog Mountain Loop. Rick Eskridge, 503-6688200. This is such a great hike and conditioner. We will go up the east most trail and down Augsberger. This should be a good opportunity to prove Russ Jolly wrong (may he rest in peace) and see the Columbia kitten tails in bloom. Russ claimed they don’t grow north of the Columbia River. Come prepared for every conceivable type of weather. 7.2 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 98 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK C2.5 Mar 22 (Sun) Franklin Ridge via Multnomah Falls. Adonay Solleiro, adonayvs@hotmail.com. You must contact leader to join this hike. Wilderness–Limit 12. Start at Multnomah Falls, turn left at the junction with the Multnomah Creek Way Trail, and down the Franklin Ridge Trail to complete our loop. This is a great hike in any weather and in any season. 11.6 miles 3,275 ft. Dr. 50 Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Mar 25 (Wed) Wahclella, McCord, Ellowah & DryCreek. Rex Breunsbach, (971) 832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Four beautiful “off the beaten path” falls in the Columbia River Gorge. We will do three separate, short hikes to view each of these. 8.4 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 90 MMC 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Mar 27 (Fri) Trail of Ten Falls. Jess Beauchemin, 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail.com. Early spring is the best time to visit Silver Falls, when the waterfalls are raging. This trail connects all of the waterfalls in the park. We’ll swing by the lodge mid-hike for some cocoa and a fireside lunch break. 8.7 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 94 TH Tualatin Park and Ride 9 a.m.
Tuesday and Thursday Rambles
Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday. Multiple groups will be led at different paces. Bring a headlamp. 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet. Meet at REIPearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m. FEBRUARY DATES ▶▶ Tue. March 3 ▶▶ Thu., March 5 ▶▶ Tue. March 10 ▶▶ Thu., March 12 ▶▶ Tue. March 17 ▶▶ Thu., March 19 ▶▶ Tue. March 24 ▶▶ Thu., March 26 HK B2 Mar 28 (Sat) Tarbell Trail to Hidden Falls. Larry Solomon, muensterhump@hotmail.com. Hike through the forest with views of Silver Star and Larch Mountains. Destination is a 92 ft. cascade falls in a mossy grotto. Discovery pass for drivers. 10 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. 85 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK A1 Mar 29 (Sun) Catherine Creek Loop. Richard Getgen, teambears@ frontier.com. Loop hike at Catherine Creek. Multiple wildflower varieties and grand views. No sign-up list. 7.0 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 126 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Mar 29 (Sun) Gales Creek— To Bell Camp Road. Rex Breunsbach, (971) 832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. At the crest of the coast range, we will follow Gales Creek from where it leaves highway 6 to Bell Camp road and return by the same route. 11 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 60 TH Target/185th 8 a.m.
Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
MARCH 2015 29
The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. Submitted by: John Rettig, Secretary Attending: Sojo Hendrix–President, John Rettig–Secretary, Steve Hooker–Treasurer (via phone), Sunny Freeman, Marty Hanson, Joan Zuber. Staff: Lee Davis, Absent: Kate Evans, Amy Mendenhall The meeting was called to order at 6:29 p.m. by President Sojo Hendrix. It was noted that a quorum was present. The agenda was reviewed. John Rettig noted that we are required to review and approve the executive session minutes as well as the general minutes from Jan. 13, 2015, and asked to amend the agenda to do so. It was moved by John Rettig and seconded by Marty Hanson to approve the agenda as amended; motion carried unanimously. The general minutes from Jan. 13, 2015 were reviewed. Steve Hooker moved and Marty Hanson seconded a motion to approve these minutes as written; motion carried unanimously. The executive session minutes with attachments from Jan. 13, 2015 were reviewed; these appear on page 45 of the Council packet. Steve Hooker moved and Marty Hanson seconded a motion to approve these minutes and attachments as written; motion carried unanimously. John Rettig explained the confidentiality treatment of the three items approved: ▶▶ The minutes containing salary and incentive plan information, and the Executive Director Goals and Outcomes Plan for FY 2014-15, will be archived and viewable by members. ▶▶ The Review summary document will be archived as a confidential employee record, not viewable by members. BUSINESS REPORTS: The Secretary’s January 31 membership report was read verbally into the record and is reported on page 26. A graphical presentation was also provided. The year-end dropped member total was less than last year, and the reinstatements in January higher. This, combined with a stronger than average number of applications, netted our membership numbers out very positively for January, and it sets us up for a strong growth year provided we continue to call dropped
30 MAZAMA BULLETIN
members and encourage them to reinstate. TREASURER’S REPORT The Treasurer’s Report was reviewed by Steve Hooker As of December 31, 2014, Mazama’s total operational revenue is $293,990 ($99,565 for the month) and total operating expenses are $269,574 ($107,507 for the month). Assets (cash) available for general operations are $109,687 and current total assets are $1,690,869. Steve Hooker again asked management to add prior year comparative figures to the balance sheet and current year-to-date budgeted comparative figures to the income statement. Lee Davis gave the Executive Director’s report, incorporated herein by reference; items noted beyond the written summary provided in the packet were as follows: ▶▶ The BCEP registration is strong— 261 for spring session (up 35-40), and 40 for summer session. ▶▶ The upcoming Alpine 5 summit schedule was announced: ▷▷ Wed. Feb. 18—Youth Outreach session ▷▷ Thu. Feb. 19—Advocacy panel at the MMC ▷▷ Fri. Feb. 20—Leader Development standards session ▶▶ The Feb. 3, 2015 Q1 Strategic Development Plan reports to the Foundation were reviewed; Steve Hooker asked for a highlight of just the exceptions to planned progress. These were: ▷▷ Lodge parking lot design is being re-analyzed due to issues with the location ▷▷ SVP now has a candidate identified from HP whom we are interviewing and may be retained this year for $10,000, which is on budget. ▷▷ Fundraising is listed as “green” but is behind plan; Lee committed to the May1 and Oct. 1 deadlines listed (detailed fundraising plan by donor category, and evidence of success in every donor category for each project, respectively) ▶▶ Mathew Brock has been hired as the Historical Collections Archivist, for $10,000, which is on budget.
EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MINUTES—FEB. 9, 2015
▶▶ Schwabe Williamson Wyatt has been asked to write a brief for us on the recent decision around the Mt. Bachelor incident; many nonprofits are concerned about that decision. ▶▶ The USFS has to date still not provided a written status of our EA for the lodge parking. John Rettig questioned how we came to name the Ice Wall for a major sponsor (CAMP), and whether this is a matter that requires EC approval. It was reported there was a contract, and it is multi-year. After some discussion, we determined that it is required that EC approve the contract, per our bylaws. Lee Davis will send this out to council for review and it will be added to the March agenda. OLD BUSINESS The Consent Agenda was reviewed; there were written reports and actions requested from the following committees: ▶▶ Conservation ▶▶ CISM ▶▶ Education ▶▶ Lodge ▶▶ Programs ▶▶ Governing Documents (approval of revised Employee Handbook) ▶▶ Publications ▶▶ Nominating (vacate implied contract between EC members and Executive Director) ▶▶ Research ▶▶ Portland Alpine Festival (new chair Alicia Imbody) Steve Hooker moved and Marty Hanson seconded a motion to approve those reports not requiring action; motion carried unanimously. We then dealt with the action requests as follows: NOMINATING COMMITTEE It was clarified that the contract between Executive Council members and Executive Director was only a draft, and was not yet implemented. We then discussed the duplication of efforts of Nominating Committee and staff to train new council members. It was felt this should be Nominating Committee’s role, and they agreed to take the materials produced by
Executive Council minutes are abridged and subject to approval; for official version, go to http://mazamas.org/ members/executive-council-reports/.
staff and look into incorporating whatever is needed from it into their training. Although there was no specific action request for implementing a hybrid paper/ electronic annual meeting voting, it was mentioned in the report and we took an action to put an item into the 2015–16 budget for this initiative. GOVERNING DOCUMENTS COMMITTEE The Employee Handbook was again requested to be approved; this was the second request by the committee. It was noted that we were expecting approval to conduct a legal review by a law firm specializing in employment law, given we have a very competitive bid in hand; it was also pointed out that we are known to be already following the new draft, not the existing handbook, for our vacation accrual policy, and that our present jury duty policy as documented is illegal if we were to insist an employee follow it. After some
discussion, John Rettig moved and Joan Zuber seconded a motion to approve the present draft as-is, and to engage BarranLiebman law firm to review this draft for $1,500; with any changes identifed to be processed later; motion failed (John Rettig and Joan Zuber approving, Judith Baker, Steve Hooker, Sunny Freeman, and Marty Hanson dissenting). It was then moved by Judith Baker and seconded by Marty Hanson to engage Barran-Liebman law firm to review this draft for $1,500; motion carried unanimously. Steve Hooker then asked that we keep the Governing Documents Committee in the loop during the legal review process, and that they receive a copy of the current proposed modifications.
PORTLAND ALPINE FESTIVAL Judith Baker moved and John Rettig seconded a motion to approve Alicia Imbody as new chair; motion carried unanimously. Tim Scott and Alicia Imbody gave a final report on the Portland Alpine Festival. The attendee survey responses have not yet been compiled, but anecdotes offered by many people have been very positive. A financial report was shown, incorporated herein by reference, with a positive net of $2,034. before staff time and MMC facility expenses were included. NEW BUSINESS: The spring retreat was discussed. It was felt that we may need the one-day set-aside; we will decide in March whether or not to hold it. The best-fit date for all members if it is held is May 2. We adjourned at 8:20 p.m.
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MARCH 2015 31
Mazama Used Euipment Sale—Friday, March 20 The Used Equipment Sale is a great opportunity to clean out your gear room of stuff that you no longer need. Who knows? You may also find some great deals.
And Then Climb Here!
Shop Great Deals Here
Sell Gear • Search your gear closet for saleable equipment or clothing you aren’t using or have upgraded. • Price it reasonably; keep 70 percent of all proceeds. • Pick up price tags and tally sheets at the MMC. • Drop off items: Thursday, March 19 from 4–8 p.m.
Buy “field-tested” gear at low prices • Mark your calendars, Friday, March 20 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (527 SE 43rd Ave, Portland): • 5–6 p.m. Mazama members & students in climb classes • 6–8 p.m. Open to the public • Plan to come early for best selection. • Mazamas accepts cash, checks or Visa®/MasterCard®.
We’ll also be collecting warm clothing for Fish Emergency Services to distribute to Portland’s needy.
ular ster Reg Questions? UES@mazamas.org 503-227-2345 • mazamas.org Font: Rick Lob• Mazama Blue