Mazama Magazine April 2017

April 2017 Vol. 99

| No. 4

Bulletin

New! Mazama Awards & Volunteer Recognition Evening May 11 at The Evergreen Details inside

The CLIMBING Issue

Summer CLIMB Schedule Don’t Forget the Lettuce How Not to Climb Silver Star Saying Goodbye: Royal Robbins

Feature Articles Don't Forget the Lettuce, p. 10 Climb Schedule, p. 12 Round the Mountain 2017, p. 22 First Mazama Ascent of Peak 8,913, p. 24 How to NOT Climb Silver Star Mountain, p. 26 What I Wished I'd Asked in BCEP, p. 35 Meet Claire Nelson, p. 37 Highpointing 101, p. 39 IT Project Update, p. 40 Saying Goodbye to Royal Robbins, p. 52

Monthly Columns

Executive Director's Report, p. 5 Events & Activities, p. 6 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 7 Point of Inspiration, p. 8 Mazama Lodge, p. 28 Member Obituaries, p. 38 Membership Report, p. 38 Adventurous Young Mazamas, p. 41 Strategic Plan Update, p. 42 Mazama Families, p. 44 Classic Mazamas, p. 45 Outings, p. 46 Trail Trips, p. 48 Executive Council, p. 50 Evening Travel Programs, p. 51

ADVERTISER INDEX

Montbell, p. 2 Active Adventures, p. 4 Mystery Ranch, p. 4 Mountain Shop, p. 8 Julbo, p. 21 Centered in Motion, p. 29 Next Adventure, p. 29 Petzl, p. 34 U.S. Outdoor, p. 32 Pollo Norte, p. 37 Folkways Institute, p. 39 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 39 Mountain Hardwear, p. 44 Yatvin Computer Consultants, p.45 Mt. Adams Lodge, p. 45 Embark Exploration, p. 47 Peru Trekking, p. 7 Green Trails Maps, p. 53

Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

Publications Committee

Committee Chair: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Jonathan Barrett, Karoline Gottschild, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Kristie Perry, and Michael Vincerra.

Cover: Randi Reed super psyched on Living Blindly in the Marsupials at Smith Rock State Park. Photo: Selfie by Randi Reed. Photo: Topher Dabrowski.

Above: Daniel Mick on the Elkhorn Crest Trail.

Contact Us MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER | 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org | Center Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE | 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 | 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

Mazama Staff LEE DAVIS • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM • Marketing & Communications Director• sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER • Membership & Development Coordinator • laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org MATTIE COURTRIGHT •Marketing & Events Coordinator• mattie@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK •Finance & Office Coordinator• renee@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON •Youth & Outreach Manager• claire@mazamas.org JUSTIN ROTHERHAM •Education & Activities Program Manager• justin@mazamas.org

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas. org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

APRIL 2017 3

Discover Nepal.

Trekking in the Himalayas is as much about the warm and welcoming Nepali people as it is the majestic mountains.

We have a trek for everyone, from the most experienced hiker to those just looking to try something new:

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek AST

(14 days) Journey deep into the Himalayas, hike the glacial Modi Khola River gorge, pass through Gurung settlements and into a breath-taking alpine area.

Everest Base Camp EBC

(19 days) This trek needs no introduction! The scenery is mind blowing with towering snow-capped peaks and jagged ridgelines whichever way you look.

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(18 days) Journey along an ancient salt trading route between Tibet and India, exploring the lowest pass through the Himalayas, west of Sikkim in India.

Inside…

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E ADV

(14 days) Avoid high elevations and hike deep into the Everest/Khumbu region, see the world’s highest peaks, massive glaciers and remote mountain villages.

TH

Everest Lodge to Lodge Khumbu

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Get your FREE BROCHURE at: activehimalayas.com or call 1 800 661 9073

BACKPACKS

AVAILABLE AT THE FOLLOWING LOCATIONS Ashland Outdoor - Ashland Backcountry Gear - Eugene

Next Adventure - Portland Oregon Mountain Community - Portland

ONLINE- WWW.MYSTERYRANCH.COM

4 MAZAMAS

Outdoor Education as a Community Service Dear Members, Friends, and new Students!

The Mazamas have been engaged in outdoor education formally for over seventy years, but education wasn’t always our primary focus. Like our partners at the Sierra Club and the Appalachian Mountain Club, our organization’s culture is rooted in the early days of mountaineering and intensive expeditions.

Inspired by images and stories from England, and the European Alps of remote expeditions across the globe, our founders created the Mazamas to be the premier organization in the Pacific Northwest dedicated to exploring and studying our great Cascade mountains. Our founders were certainly passionate about teaching city dwellers to climb and love the mountains, but they remained focused on large research focused outings, climbing expeditions, and even mapping for many decades.

It wasn’t until the mid-1940s that Mazama education programs like the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) were conceived. Over time, outdoor education classes like BCEP became known internally as our core or most important programs.

They were, and remain, the single biggest entry point for new climbers and members, and have a clear connection to our mission of promoting mountaineering and conserving the mountain environment.

In just the last ten or fifteen years, Mazama core outdoor education programs have broadened in diversity and scope. We are teaching more students, through many

Membership & Community Survey

more avenues than ever before. Decades ago, the Mazamas certainly taught mountaineering, skiing, and related first aid courses. Today, outdoor education at the Mazamas includes mountain running, canyoneering, family programs, youth leadership, sport climbing, and many smaller format skill builders. We’re proud of that diversity because it makes the Mazamas more relevant to our community at large.

Overall, our programs remain relevant and valuable today because they teach important outdoor skills, and also because they help to strengthen our broader community. The community benefits of outdoor education include the improved physical and mental health of our community members, people’s engagement in their community, and the development of conservation values in our citizens.

Mazama programs also benefit the community by helping to create strong leaders and social networks. These networks enable us to take on large scale volunteer projects and have an immediate impact. They also help our citizens learn how to cooperate, communicate, and trust one another as team members as we work together to attain a goal (the summit!).

And all of our programs benefit the community by building student awareness to their relationship to the outdoors, to nature, and with our limited natural resources. These experiences help our students to understand that our presence in the outdoors has a real impact, both on the natural environment, and on the

experiences of others we encounter in our trips.

Through our programs our students accept a duty of care for the outdoors and an understanding that our relationship to these places we love is reciprocal. This concept is ultimately that the quality of the land and the outdoors is inexorably linked to the quality of life in our society.

As we look forward to an incredible climbing season ahead, and we go out into the cascades I want to encourage you to think about how your experiences at the Mazamas benefit the community and our environment.

If you haven’t already, we invite you to become a part of our community, to hike with us, climb with us, and learn with us. Over time, we hope that each of you will become lifelong supporters and advocates for our mission. Helping us to promote mountaineering and conserve the mountain environment through all of our programs and activities.

Lee Davis Executive Director

During the month of April we are undertaking a membership and community survey to help inform our next strategic plan. This survey will be conducted via email. We will put out a notice in the weekly e-news the week before the survey is sent out. You can expect 5–7 days to respond to the survey after you receive it. If you are a member and you do not have an email on file with us, you can email adventure@mazamas.org to update your record.

APRIL 2017 5

g n i m o c p U EVENTS S E I T I V I T AC

FAMILIES ROCK SKILLS

HIKE LEADER ORIENTATION If you are hoping to become a Trail Trips Hike Leader, sign up for this orientation at trailtrips@mazamas.org. Sign up today, space is limited! ▶▶ Date: April 3 or May 3 ▶▶ Time: 6:30–9 p.m. ▶▶ Location: MMC

BASIC ROCK SKILLS Brush up on your basic rock climbing skills such as knots, tying in, climbing commands, belaying, rappelling, prusiking, passing protection on a fixed line, and cleaning a top-rope anchor. You do not need to be a Mazama member to register for these climbing clinics. Cost: $15.

An open climbing session on the MMC climbing walls with a focus on helping your family become comfortable with roped climbing in a supportive, low pressure atmosphere to encourage kids.

Limited to 20 climbing kids and adults.

Cost: $2 person/$5 max per family. ▶▶ Date: April 3 ▶▶ Time: 5–8 p.m. ▶▶ Location: MMC ▶▶ Details: tinyurl.com/maz-familyrock

MOUNTAIN RUNNING CAMP

▶▶ Date: April 21 ▶▶ Time: 6–8 p.m. ▶▶ Location: MMC ▶▶ Details: tinyurl.com/mazbasicrock

LEADERSHIP COHORT INFO NIGHT

Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at beautiful Mazama Lodge, the Mountain Running Camp is geared towards road and trail runners interested in taking their running to the mountain environment as well as honing their mountain running skills. ▶▶ Dates: July 28–30 ▶▶ Details: tinyurl.com/MazMtnRun

This is your opportunity to engage with our organization while cultivating your inner leadership potential. Register by calling the office at 503-227-2345. ▶▶ Date: April 14 ▶▶ Time: 6–9 p.m. ▶▶ Location: MMC

ROUND THE MOUNTAIN 6 MAZAMAS

ADVANCED SNOW & ICE Do you want to climb ice? How about the north face of mount anything? What will this class teach you? Advanced rope work and anchor-building skills, high-angle alpine travel techniques, advanced crevasse-rescue technique, small team high angle rescue skills, and yes, beginning ice climbing technique. ▶▶ Application Period: April 15–May 15 ▶▶ Class Dates: Aug 9–Sept. 17 ▶▶ Details: Go to: tinyurl.com/mazamasASI

WILDERNESS NAVIGATION: MAP & COMPASS This class will teach you the core map and compass skills you need for backcountry travel. The instruction is through video, lecture, classroom exercises, and field practice. Cost: $55 members, $80 nonmembers. ▶▶ Date: April 9 ▶▶ Time: 8 a.m.–3 p.m. ▶▶ Location: MMC ▶▶ Details: tinyurl.com/mazmapandcompass

▶▶ Registration Opens: April 1 ▶▶ Dates: Sept. 2–4 ▶▶ Details: Go to: tinyurl.com/MazRTM

ADVENTURE WILD SUMMER DAY CAMP Summer Day Camp 9 a.m.–5 p.m., for youth ages 4–10 at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave. in Portland.

Mazamas Members: Enter code MAZAMAS2017 for your $35 discount!

WEEKLY THEMES: ▶▶ July 10: WILD Art and Imagination ▶▶ July 17: WILD Critters and Conservation ▶▶ July 24: WILD Science and Exploration* ▶▶ July 31: WILD Rocks and Rivers* ▶▶ Aug. 7: WILD Mountains and Glaciers* $295 or *$325 (includes Mazama Lodge day trip

Get more info & register at tinyurl.com/maz-adventurewild

APRIL 2017 7

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES TREE PLANTING APRIL 8, 8 A.M.–2 P.M. The Conservation Committee invites Mazamas who like to get a little dirt under their fingernails for our second, and final, tree planting event of the season. We will join forces with the Sandy River Basin Watershed Council to underplant Western Red Cedar in Mt. Hood National Forest. Tools provided. Dress for the weather and off-trail work. Carpool from the MMC. Sign up with Lea Wilson, lea.ione.w@gmail.com.

BROUGHTON BLUFF STEWARDSHIP APRIL 22, 9 A.M.–12 P.M. The Mazamas, Access Fund Conservation Team, and Planet Granite Portland are excited for our 4th year at Broughton Bluff !

This trail party will fix a huge washed out section of trail at the entrance to the crag, clean up trash, cut brush and build rock staircases. Wear long sleeves and pants, close-toed shoes, and bring gloves and eye protection. Details: tinyurl.com/gmsdeg2.

BE A GORGEOUS VOLUNTEER JUNE 11–SIGN UP BY MAY 21 Volunteers will meet at Government Camp for a day of volunteering for the Gorgeous Hood-to-Hood Relay. For each Mazama volunteer that is placed, the race will donate $100 to the Mazama Mountain Science School! Volunteers will be stationed either at an exchange to direct vans and runners, on course to direct runners, or at the start or finish for set-up, operations, and take-down. Most assignments require a lot of standing and smiling. Sign up now at tinyurl.com/mazgorgeous, and once you sign up, the race coordinators will contact you with the volunteer release and more specifics about your assignment. Thanks!

BE A CLASSY CLASSIC Classics are looking for a secretary to attend our bi-monthly meetings. We are also looking for an activity coordinator to organize hikes, luncheons or other activities of interest for Classics to attend. Please contact classics@mazamas.org if you are interested.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR ADVENTURE Do you have a photo-heavy adventure you’d like to share as a Wednesday Evening Travel Program? The Programs Committee is looking for presenters for the next series, mid-October 2017 to mid-April 2018. Whether you hike, climb, cycle, paddle, or simply travel the world, from the Pacific Northwest to Timbuktu, down under to up and over (a mountain), Programs would like to hear from you. Contact chair John Leary at leary.j@comcast.net or Lacy Turner at lacywriter@msn.com.

MAKE ADVENTURES COME TRUE The Expedition Committee is seeking additional members.

Currently, we review grants twice a year (winter/summer). Also, looking for committee members interested in planning expedition networking events. If interested, please contact expedition@mazamas.org.

8 MAZAMAS

JOIN OUR TEAM! ONGOING The Mazamas are looking for a team of 5–20 active, engaged, and energetic volunteers to join our team of Outreach volunteers.

Responsibilities include: representing the Mazamas at events that align with our mission and reach people who might be interested in Mazama membership, activities, or events. We’ll provide you with a 1 hour training on how to setup and manage a table at these events. After that, we are looking for a commitment of attending 2–4 events per year. Upcoming events include: National Get Outdoor Days, the Summer Solstice Party at Base Camp Brewing, and the Smith Rock Craggin’ Classic.

Interested in joining our team or getting more info? Email: sarah@mazamas.org.

POINT OF INSPIRATION

Meet Mazama Lis Cooper

by Mattie Courtright, Mazama Marketing & Events Coordinator If you are looking for a jolt of enthusiasm and inspiration, look no further than Lis Cooper. I’m sure she echoes many Mazamas when she says, “Outdoor and community activity is not a part of my Lis (on the left) at a recent marathon. life. It is my life.”

An avid marathon runner (80 so far!), bike tourer, mountain climber, and hiker, Lis lives outdoors in a way that we all strive for here at the Mazamas.

From the time she was able to fit into her father’s rucksack, Lis has been trekking through the mountains of the U.S. and countries abroad. She joined the Mazamas in 1982 and is still the only Mazama that served 4 years on Executive Council.

When asked what her greatest outdoor/activity accomplishment has been thus far she said, “When I cashed out my retirement and went trekking in Nepal, completing the Annapurna Circuit.” She is an expert at connecting people, "Talk to me if you want to know how to follow your passion in the Mazamas. I’ll find a way for you to get involved.”

If you have a person you’d like to recognize in our semiregular Point of Inspiration, email: mazama.bulletin@ mazamas.org.

Time to Shine

Thursday, May 11; 6–9 at The Evergreen

Mazama Awards

by Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications

W

e are excited to announce the inaugural Mazama Awards & Volunteer Recognition Evening. This event will take place on May 11 at The Evergreen, 618 SE Alder Street, from 6–9 p.m.

You'll enjoy an evening filled with Mazama Awards, including the Parker Cup, Hardesty Cup, 16 Peaks, Mazama Honorary Member, and many more. There will be slideshows and stories celebrating Mazama volunteers, and postcards where you can write a note of thanks to a volunteer who has made a positive difference in your life. And of course, there will be plenty of time for you to socialize with your Mazama friends, and hopefully meet some new ones.

Parker Cup Hardesty Cup Honorary Member 16 Peaks Oregon Cascades Guardian Peaks

Attendees will enjoy heavy appetizers including House-Smoked Salmon, Painted Hills Steak Sliders, Mezze Platter, and more (vegan & gluten-free options available) from Devil's Food Catering.

Beverages will be available for purchase.

Space will be limited at this venue, so make sure to get your tickets today at: tinyurl.com/mazvolawards. Early ticket purchase will help us to plan the best event possible for your enjoyment!

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1510 NE 37th Ave, Portland, OR 97232

Bringing joy to young hearts

APRIL 2017 9

by Jonathan Barrett

Don’t Forget the

Photos, clockwise from top left: Betty Parker Rappelling at Horsethief Butte, Mazamas Climbing School, March 1963. Bill Oberteuffer on Mt Constance, Olympic Mountains, undated. Margaret Oberteuffer, Mt. Shuksan, 1960s. Lorne Turville, Basic Climb School, c.1955

10 MAZAMAS

T

his spring, many newly minted Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) students will be signing their climb cards, anxious to test their skills for the first time.

The south side of Mt. Hood will be the first “real” climb for many of them. When thinking about this, I was struck with a question that seemed both elemental and obvious. What did the first BCEP graduation climb look like? To answer it, I dove into the Mazama archives with the expert assistance of Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager.

As is often the case, the precise origins of things are sometimes difficult to pin down.

Randall Kester, a Climbing Committee chairman, started the forerunner of the current program in 1943. It was a series of eight classes and four field sessions that began in February and ran until June. Unfortunately World War II ended his attempts to initiate a program, and it was not until 1950 that Warren Wilson picked up the effort. Son of a former Club president and chairman of the Climbing Committee which had been formed sixteen years earlier, Wilson resumed the efforts to bring formal climbing education to the Mazamas. Initially there were six classroom and eight field sessions. Attendance topped 150 participants. However, it wasn’t until 1956 that the program, as we would currently recognize it, finally emerged.

It was under the watchful eye of William (Bill) Oberteuffer that we finally got what might be considered the first truly “BCEP” program. It is impossible and unnecessary to recount the full richness and complexity of his life here. However, I would strongly recommend reading his biography, held in the Mazama library, titled, Gazing Down From The Mountain: The Story of William H. Oberteuffer. In the fall of 1937, at the age of eighteen, Oberteuffer rode on horseback from Portland to Tijuana, Mexico with his cousin Bob and friend Bud. They were only joined for part of it by Oberteuffer’s father. A decade later, he would begin a

high school teaching career in science that would span 32 years. He once recounted about his teaching practice, “Always wishing to give my students the most say and being less than sure of my own rightness, I discussed with my class what the course structure might be for about a week. We eventually wound up with about 15 areas of possible study most of which fell within my area of expertise and were possible from the standpoint of time and materials. The students then voted on the 7 or 8 most popular suggestions and these then became our course content. (This is teaching democracy by doing it.)” In the winter of 1969, Bill and his wife, Margaret, requested a sabbatical and spent nearly all of 1970 and 1971 backpacking around the world. His expansive climbing career had begun when he was in college.

He once observed, “My professor had climbed so he loaned me his ice axe and crampons, and I climbed Mt. Hood with Margaret, Moshe Lensky, Dave Raffety, and Gil Staender (the godfather of Smith Rock) who was in high school, and was the guide ... On that first climb, Gil Staender taught

us all self-arrest on the way up.” I note all of this because, as every BCEP student knows, the instructors—their stories, their personalities, and their lives—richly and fully define the experience of their students. It must have been astounding to learn under the watchful tutelage

continued on next page APRIL 2017 11

Lettuce, continued from previous page Each had been provided with an equipment list of required gear: “Waterproof boots, nailed or heavy lug soles—no slick soles allowed. Adequate clothing (prepare for rain, intense sun, high wind, temperatures down to 25⁰, mittens, sun goggles, canteen, small packsack, woolen socks (plus extra pair), mountain lunch (from home), crampons (must fit properly), pocket mirror, ice axe, sunburn preventative, flashlight.”

12 MAZAMAS

Oberteuffer.

As evidence of his diligence, the teaching notes from that first BCEP course are still in the archives and even include instruction on how to speak in a manner that is clear and effective during lectures.

These sessions, held at the Oregonian Hostess House, began on April 30, and they culminated with a graduation climb of Mt. Hood on June 10 and an “examination” two days later at the Mazama club house.

Topics for the dozen sessions would feel familiar to present-day BCEP students.

Lectures included wilderness travel, equipment, snow climbing, glacier travel, weather, and rock climbing. As well, there was a presentation by a Dr. Charles Dotter on “Climbing Miseries,” which would prove to be surprisingly prescient given the events of the graduation climb. All of this, as well as a conditioning hike and outside rock practice, was coordinated under Oberteuffer’s leadership. Students were given all kinds of sage advice including this gem about nutrition on climbs: “Many persons are subject to an acid stomach during a climb. Avoid rich, concentrated, fatty foods (chocolate, nuts, etc.). Simple sugars are good because they digest easily and produce water during oxidation.

Avoid eating snow or drinking ice water fast. Fresh grape-juice may be carried in your canteen. Suggestions for lunch: Two sandwiches (with lettuce), cookies, oranges, and candy (such as caramels or fruit lozenges).”

Enrollment was 447 students that first spring, and 28 Boy Scouts or Explorers and 11 Girl Scouts were in that first group. Perhaps these numbers were so high because enrollment was free to all who registered—500 would initially sign up—and the course was advertised in local high schools and colleges (note: Mazama Membership was 1,086 in 1956). Although Oberteuffer was never in the army himself, he took cues from the military when running field sessions where assistant instructors were managing between 80 and 130 students at a time. To do this, they wore colored arm bands so that the participants would know who to report to and when.

When the graduation climb came on June 10, there were 161 participants. Each had been provided with an equipment

list of required gear: “Waterproof boots, nailed or heavy lug soles—no slick soles allowed. Adequate clothing (prepare for rain, intense sun, high wind, temperatures down to 25⁰, mittens, sun goggles, canteen, small packsack, woolen socks (plus extra pair), mountain lunch ( from home), crampons (must fit properly), pocket mirror, ice axe, sunburn preventative, flashlight.” At the time, there were two primary places in Portland to procure the tools for mountain climbing—the Mountain Shop and the Beebe Company.

The former still serves many of the same needs and customers; the latter still exists in Portland but now has a decidedly different clientele. Participants spent that night at the Mazama Lodge where dinner cost $1.20, the midnight snack was $.50, and lodging for members was $1.00 (an extra $.20 for non-members). The climbing fee itself was just $1.50, with some exceptions where it was only $1.00.

Only 11 participants summited that day, which seems like an appallingly poor success rate for the graduation climb of this first BCEP class. Oberteuffer’s notes provide a hint as to why. In his report filed after the climb, he noted of the weather: “Lighting, fog, hail, blizzard.” Undoubtedly it is forgivable that so many failed their first time. He also noted the following: “With 161 in the climbing party, we broke party into 2 separate groups with a leader and 3 assistants each. Then to ‘share the wealth’, the total ‘financial support’ due these 8 leaders was divided among 17 leaders and rope leaders who had participated generously in the climbing school.” It sounds like the philosophy that he espoused as high school teacher carried through to this moment as well.

He allowed, perhaps even required, the students become the leaders and to own their experiences.

Later in life, Oberteuffer was asked if he had ever done anything wrong on a mountain. He recounted this very graduation climb on June 10 of 1956: “We divided up into two main groups, Erwin Reiger and I as main leaders. Weather deteriorated all the way up. We got to the lower hot rocks, where it was snowing hard. We should have gone down. I asked if anyone wanted to go to the summit under these conditions. Don Eastman wanted to

go, Jim Craig, about 7 or 8 guys want to, so I said OK, and appointed a guy to go down with the others. Reiger also went down.

Weather was bad at the base of Crater Rock, with stinging snow. We went up a new route around the end of the crevasse, the chute, didn’t sign the register, turned around and went down. I couldn’t see the crevasse but I sensed it, went around it, and got to the hot rocks. One guy had hypothermia, a husky, young fellow, not dressed properly, starting to stumble. Two folks took him and got him to a snowcat.

All was OK, but it was something I didn’t need to do. It was a challenge I guess.”

For all those BCEP students who will be packing their packs this spring

for their “real” mountaineering climb, I would encourage you to think about this first group. Consider the advice to add lettuce to your sandwich. Wonder at the hundreds of students who bought their first ice ax from the Mountain Shop. Compare the electrolytes that you may add to your water bottle against the grapefruit juice in their canteens.

Continue to question your climb leaders about their lives and experience—and,yes, even their choices. And remember that, even in 1956, BCEP students were being reminded to make sure that their crampons fit properly before they left home.

Author Bio: Jonathan Barrett grew up in New England and moved to Oregon in 1997.

He joined the Mazamas in 2007. When not working as a full-time language arts teacher at North Marion High School or being a father to a kindergärtner, he finds the occasional morning here and there to sneak up Mt. Hood, pull some plastic, or crank out a long run in Forest Park.

Bill Oberteuffer's biography is in the Mazamas Library with call #920.Ob2 APRIL 2017 13

Photo: Kevin Cowley

Photo: Jim Nicolarsen

Photo: Vaqas Malik

Photo: Dan Sherman

clim There are currently more than 170 climbs on the summer climb schedule with more being added every day. On the next few pages you’ll find a complete list of climbs, including: peak, route, dates, leader, spots available, climb codes, and more. Please note: Mount St. Helens has detailed rules. People frequently drop out of a climb for a variety of reasons, so don’t hesitate to put in a climb card for full climbs. Before applying

for a climb, go to mazamas.org/climb for FULL climb details.

Photo: Chris Wilson

Photo: JJ Furuno

14 Megan MAZAMAS Photo: McElroy

Photo: Dan Sherman

Photo: Jim Nicolarsen

mb

Photo:Photo: RandiRandi Reed Reed

Washington Climbs

Photo:Photo: BryceBryce Buchanan Buchanan

Photo:Photo: AliciaAlicia Imbody Imbody

Oregon Climbs

Photo: Alicia Imbody

APRIL 2017 15

Get Ready to

CLIMB!

Did you know that the Mazamas current climb application process began in 1976 and has remained relatively unchanged over the last 41 years? Change is coming for 2018! You can look forward to an online climb application process for next climbing season.

Until then, enjoy the current quirky process for the last time. Perhaps even buy a few extra climb cards to keep as momentos!

Apply Find a climb you want to join.

1

Review. Review the climb details online at mazamas.org/climb to ensure that the dates, time, location, etc. work for your schedule.

Purchase a Climb Card online or in person at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC). $20 member/$30 nonmembers.

2

Climb Info. Write the climb number, dates

Read full climb details online at

3

Climbing Experience. Detail your climbing experience, including mountain, route, year, and climb leader. You may attach a separate sheet of paper, and may include non-Mazama climbs.

4

Climbing Education. Include both your Mazama and non-Mazama training here.

Address, stamp, and mail the climb

5

Personal Information. Complete this section in its entirety; any medical/physical conditions will be kept confidential.

Signature Required!

Mail on April 15 for your best chance of

6

Wait. Climb leaders have numerous cards to

7

Leader Response Card. The applicant needs to fill out the top portion—your name, climb dates, climb number, mountain, and climb leader.

CLIMB! If you are listed as an alternate for a

8

Flip. Flip the card over and fill out the backside.

9

Mail! Insert the entire card into an envelope,

Review the climb schedule: mazamas.org/climb.

mazamas.org/climb. Some climbs have detailed information that is only available online.

Fill out a Climb Card.

Insert the completed climb card into an envelope.

card, directly to the climb leader, not the MMC. Climb leader addresses are in the April Bulletin. being accepted on popular routes. Cards mailed before April 15 will not be accepted.

review. Some wait until just a few weeks before the climb to choose their team.

climb, keep your schedule open. Alternate spots frequently open closer to climb date. If the climb and alternate list are full, return the climb card to the MMC for a new card.

Keep Checking! If you don’t get accepted on your early season climbs, don’t give up! Late season climbs often leave the trailhead with spaces available due to cancellations AND climb leaders continue to add climbs throughout the season.

Mt. St. Helens has an additional $22 fee due to a permiting system, you may need to include a check. See the climb details to get additional details on this fee.

16 MAZAMAS

Fill out a Climb Card

of the climb, name of the mountain, and climb leader in the upper left.

The standard boilerplate language (read both the front and back). Sign on the front.

Write YOUR mailing address in the addressee area and attach a stamp.

address to the CLIMB LEADER, attach a stamp, and send it via snail mail.

Are you currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program? Look for climbs with “BCEP” in the Grad Emphasis field.

Familiarize yourself with the rules & regulations of Mazama climbs before you apply. Read this page in its entirety: tinyurl.com/MazClimbRules

Summer Climb Schedule

The next four pages contain the current summer climb schedule and climb leader information. Before submitting a climb card, go to mazamas.org/climb and review the online schedule for additional details that are not printed here. Don’t forget climbs are continually added to the online schedule throughout the summer—this is just the beginning!

KEY:

Climb Grades:

• + Indicates a pack in to a base camp on route • ö Permitting rules for Mount St. Helens, see online climb detail about how to submit your fee.

• A: Adjacent climbs. MAY sign up for both (two climbs in the same area.)

• R: Relaxed pace (those of any age desiring a slower paced climb) • E: Exploratory (the leader has not climbed this route before) • F: Family Climbs. Slower pace and child-friendly • H: Hike-to-the-Summit. Moderate climbs for experienced hikers.

• L: Linked climbs. MUST sign up for both.

• N: Novice. Climb leader is willing to take inexperienced climbers • P: Provisional (A new climb leader is being evaluated by an experienced climb leader.)

• S: Ski Mountaineering • Y: Adventurous Young Mazamas (under 40) • BCEP: Leader will take 2017 BCEP Grads • ICS: Leader will take 2017 ICS Grads • AR: Leader will take 2017 AR Grads • ASI: Leader will 2017 ASI Grads

A: May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, and self-arrest.

B: A-level skills, plus glacier travel & roped climbing.

C: B-level skills, plus crevasse rescue skills, belaying, rappelling, and low 5th-class rock climbing.

D: C-level skills, plus travel on steep snow slopes and 5th-class rock climbing.

E: Multi-pitch technical routes; same as D but with a high degree of self-sufficiency and proficiency using technical skills under high exposure, sharing highangle leads, setting protection and anchors.

Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

Leader

5/2–10PM 5/3–AM 5/4–AM 5/5–12AM 5/5–AM 5/7–4AM 5/8–AM 5/10–AM 5/11–PM 5/13–10PM 5/16–10PM 5/18–10PM 5/18–AM 5/19–11PM 5/19–AM 5/20–AM 5/21–AM 5/21–11PM 5/22–PM 5/25–11PM 5/25–10AM 5/26–AM 5/26–AM 5/27–AM 5/30–10PM 6/2–AM 6/2–AM 6/3–AM 6/3–AM 6/3–AM 6/3–PM 6/6–AM 6/7–AM 6/8–AM 6/8–10AM 6/9–AM 6/9–AM 6/9–PM 6/10–PM

5/3–5PM 5/3–PM 5/5–PM 5/5–2PM 5/6–PM 5/7–3PM 5/8–PM 5/10–PM 5/12–PM 5/14–PM 5/17–5PM 5/19–PM 5/18–PM 5/20–5PM 5/19–PM 5/21–PM 5/23–PM 5/22–PM 5/23–PM 5/26–PM 5/26–2PM 5/29–PM 5/29–PM 5/29–PM 5/31–5PM 6/2–PM 6/3–PM 6/4–PM 6/4–PM 6/5–PM 6/4–AM 6/7–PM 6/9–PM 6/11–PM 6/9–PM 6/11–PM 6/11–PM 6/10–PM 6/11–PM

Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek—Worm Flows ö Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek—Worm Flows ö Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek—Worm Flows ö Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Lane Peak, The Zipper Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Wy'east Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mt. Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam Glacier Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Mt. Hood, South Side Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Middle Sister, SE Ridge Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Mt. Hood, South Side The Brothers, South Couloir / Lena Lake Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge Lightning Peak, Copper Creek Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route

B(BCEP) A(R) B(BCEP)(ICS) C(BCEP)(ICS) C(BCEP)(ICS) A A(BCEP) B(BCEP) B(BCEP)(ICS) C(BCEP) B(BCEP) C(BCEP) B(BCEP) B C(E)(ICS) A(BCEP)(ICS) D+(ICS)(AR) B C(E)(ICS) C(E)(BCEP)(ICS) C+(E)(ICS) C+(E) B(E)(BCEP) B(E) B(BCEP) B(BCEP) C+(E)(ICS) B(L#1367)(BCEP) C(L#1366((BCEP)(ICS) B+(R)(BCEP) B(BCEP)(ICS) A(R) A+(R) C+ B+(N)(BCEP)(ICS) B+(E) B+(E) A(E) B

Tim Scott Bob Breivogel Gary Bishop Larry Beck Amy Graham Steve Warner Donna Vandall Bruce Yatvin Azure Olson Rico Micallef Tim Scott Rico Micallef Bruce Yatvin Steve Warner Gary Bishop Andrew Bodien Gary Ballou Chris Kruell Joseph Eberhardt Walter Keutel Larry Beck Rico Micallef Scott Osbron Thomas Miller Tim Scott Gary Bishop Gary Ballou Alexander Fox Alexander Fox Bob Breivogel George Shay Joe Whittington Ellen Gradison Rico Micallef Ania Wiktorowicz Jon Major Joseph Eberhardt Kevin Clark Ellen Gradison

Avail Spots Status # 10 11 8 6 6 10 9 7 7 11 10 11 7 7 6 7 3 7 5 6 4 7 10 10 10 0 4 8 8 9 8 5 7 7 5 7 6 7 7

Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open

1488 1383 1319 1327 1343 1414 1432 1376 1449 1350 1489 1351 1377 1415 1445 1485 1341 1451 1360 1442 1467 1323 1326 1471 1490 1320 1345 1366 1367 1384 1455 1460 1474 1446 1478 1381 1389 1423 1475

APRIL 2017 17

Dep. 6/11–AM 6/12–PM 6/12–PM 6/14–AM 6/15–AM 6/16–AM 6/16–AM 6/16–6PM 6/17–PM 6/17–AM 6/17–AM 6/18–AM 6/21–AM 6/23–AM 6/23–AM 6/23–AM 6/23–5PM 6/23–AM 6/24–AM 6/24–AM 6/25–AM 6/26–AM 6/27–PM 6/27–5PM 6/30–AM 7/1–AM 7/1–AM 7/1–AM 7/6–AM 7/7–AM 7/7–5PM 7/7–5PM 7/8–AM 7/8–AM 7/8–AM 7/9–AM 7/9–AM 7/11–AM 7/13–AM 7/14–AM 7/14–AM 7/15–AM 7/15–AM 7/15–AM 7/16–AM 7/19–AM 7/20–AM 7/21–AM 7/21–AM 7/22–AM 7/22–AM 7/23–AM 7/25–PM 7/27–AM 7/28–AM 7/29–AM 8/1–PM 8/2–AM 8/3–AM

18 MAZAMAS

Ret. 6/11–PM 6/14–PM 6/14–PM 6/16–PM 6/18–PM 6/17–PM 6/18–PM 6/18–PM 6/18–PM 6/17–PM 6/17–PM 6/18–PM 6/23–PM 6/25–PM 6/24–PM 6/25–PM 6/26–PM 6/25–PM 6/25–PM 6/26–PM 6/25–PM 6/27–PM 6/28–PM 7/1–PM 7/2–PM 7/3–PM 7/3–PM 7/3–AM 7/10–PM 7/9–PM 7/10–8PM 7/10–8PM 7/10–PM 7/9–PM 7/8–PM 7/12–PM 7/11–PM 7/14–PM 7/17–PM 7/16–PM 7/16–PM 7/16–PM 7/16–AM 7/16–PM 7/19–PM 7/21–PM 7/21–PM 7/23–PM 7/23–PM 7/23–PM 7/24–PM 7/25–PM 7/26–PM 7/30–PM 7/30–PM 7/30–PM 8/2–PM 8/4–PM 8/4–PM

Peak, Route Rooster Rock, South Face Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse South Sister, Devil's Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Middle Sister, North Ridge Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Clark, Royal Basin Mt. Buckner, SW Route Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side South Sister, Devil's Lake Three Way Peak, E Ridge Barrier Peak, Governor's Ridge Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier Sloan Peak, Corkscrew Route Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Mt. Jefferson, East Face Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm—Cascade Pass Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Tatoosh Range, Extended Tatoosh Traverse Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Matterhorn and Sacajawea Peaks, Ice Lake Mt. Adams, South Side The Castle, Standard Route Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm—Cascade Pass Black Peak, South Route Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Mt. Daniel, Daniel Glacier Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Echo Rock, Mowich Lake Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Black Peak, South Route Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge ö Ingalls Peak, South Face Del Campo Peak, South Gully

Grade & Codes C(N)(BCEP) B(L#1370) B(L#1369) B(E)(BCEP)(ICS) D+(E) B(L#1406)(BCEP)(ICS) A(R)(L#1425)(BCEP) B(L#1424)(BCEP) B B A B(A#1407)(BCEP)(ICS) B+(R)(N)(BCEP)(ICS) B+(E) B+(BCEP) A+(E) C+(E) B+(E)(BCEP)(ICS) B+(BCEP) A+(BCEP) A A(E)(A#1420) B(A#1444)+B98 C+(E)(ICS) C+(ICS) C+(ICS) C(E)(ICS) C+(E)(ICS)(ASI) C+(E) C+(E)(ICS) B+(L#1492)(BCEP)(ICS) B+(L#1491)(BCEP)(ICS) B+(ICS) A+(ICS) B(BCEP) C+(E)(ICS) B+(E) C+(E)(ICS) C+(E)(ICS) C+ A+(R)(BCEP) A+ B(L#1447)(BCEP) C(E)(L#1441)(BCEP)(ICS) C+ B+(BCEP)(ICS) B+ D+(E) B+(E) B+ C+(ICS) C+(ICS) A(E) C+(ICS) C+(E)(ICS) B+(BCEP) A(R)(H) D+(ICS)(AR) B+(L#1470)(BCEP)

Leader Avail Spots Rayce Boucher 10 Marty Scott 6 Shirley Welch 6 Gary Bishop 6 Rico Micallef 5 Walter Keutel 9 Bob Breivogel 9 Bob Breivogel 9 Chris Kruell 7 Chris Kruell 6 Elizabeth Copeland 9 Walter Keutel 9 Rayce Boucher 8 Rico Micallef 9 Justin Brady 9 Jon Major 7 Linda E. Mark 5 Robin Wilcox 11 Bill McLoughlin 9 Larry Beck 8 Jill Kellogg 6 Doug Wilson 7 Doug Wilson 7 Andrew Bodien 5 Rico Micallef 7 Bob Breivogel 7 Joseph Eberhardt 6 Terry Brenneman 5 Jill Kellogg 6 Scott Osbron 6 Tim Scott 6 Tim Scott 6 Gary Ballou 5 George Shay 10 Josh Lockerby 10 Bruce Yatvin 2 Jon Major 4 Gary Bishop 6 Joseph Eberhardt 5 Amy Brose 2 Bob Breivogel 9 Elizabeth Copeland 9 Terry Brenneman 7 Terry Brenneman 6 Chris Kruell 4 Larry Beck 4 Donna Vandall 8 Thomas Miller 4 Michael Hortsch 11 George Shay 8 Larry Beck 6 Alexander Fox 6 Doug Wilson 7 Rico Micallef 7 Scott Osbron 7 Bill McLoughlin 7 George Cummings 6 Gary Ballou 3 Larry Beck 6

Status Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open

# 1463 1369 1370 1398 1396 1407 1424 1425 1368 1388 1439 1406 1461 1352 1359 1393 1494 1496 1363 1466 1411 1444 1420 1486 1353 1387 1390 1440 1412 1472 1491 1492 1348 1456 1481 1374 1392 1402 1430 1340 1385 1438 1441 1447 1501 1468 1433 1421 1504 1457 1483 1476 1418 1354 1473 1364 1382 1342 1469

Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

Leader

Avail Spots Status #

8/4–PM 8/4–AM 8/4–AM 8/4–9AM 8/4–AM 8/5–AM 8/5–AM 8/10–AM 8/11–AM 8/11–AM 8/11–AM 8/11–AM 8/11–AM 8/11–5PM 8/15–AM 8/16–AM 8/18–AM 8/18–AM 8/18–AM 8/18–AM 8/18–AM 8/18–AM 8/18–AM 8/19–PM 8/21–PM 8/23–6AM 8/24–5PM 8/25–AM 8/25–AM 8/25–AM 8/25–AM 8/25–AM 8/26–AM 8/27–AM 8/27–AM 8/29–AM 9/1–PM 9/2–AM 9/2–AM 9/3–AM 9/7–AM 9/8–AM 9/9–AM 9/9–AM 9/9–AM 9/11–AM 9/14–AM 9/15–AM 9/15–AM 9/16–AM 9/17–AM 9/17–AM 9/21–AM 9/22–AM 9/25–AM 9/30–AM 10/1–AM 10/21–AM

8/6–AM 8/7–PM 8/7–PM 8/6–5PM 8/5–PM 8/6–PM 8/6–PM 8/14–PM 8/13–PM 8/13–PM 8/13–PM 8/13–PM 8/12–PM 8/14–PM 8/17–PM 8/17–PM 8/20–PM 8/20–PM 8/20–PM 8/20–PM 8/19–PM 8/20–PM 8/20–PM 8/21–PM 8/23–PM 8/23–6PM 8/27–PM 8/28–PM 8/28–PM 8/27–PM 8/25–PM 8/27–PM 8/26–PM 9/1–PM 9/1–PM 8/29–PM 9/4–PM 9/4–PM 9/3–PM 9/3–PM 9/7–PM 9/10–PM 9/11–PM 9/9–PM 9/9–PM 9/11–PM 9/15–PM 9/17–PM 9/16–PM 9/16–PM 9/17–PM 9/17–PM 9/24–PM 9/24–PM 9/27–PM 9/30–PM 10/1–PM 10/22–PM

Middle Sister, North Ridge Eagle & Chutla Peak, Longmire Trail Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Mt. Washington, North Ridge Old Snowy & Ives Peak, Standard Route Gothic Peak, East Side Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Broken Top, Green Lakes—NW Ridge South Sister, Devil's Lake Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier North Sister, SE Ridge Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge Gilbert Peak, Conrad-Meade Glacier Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge Copper and Iron, Tahoma Creek Mt. Ararat and Mt. Satulick, Kautz Creek South Sister, Green Lakes Broken Top, Green Lakes—NW Ridge Pyramid Peak, Standard Broken Top, Green Lakes—NW Ridge South Sister, Green Lakes Mt. Jefferson, Whitewater Glacier Aurora Peak & Tokaloo Rock, St. Andrew's Lake South Sister, Devil's Lake West McMillan Spire, Terror Glacier South Early Winter Spire, South Arete Liberty Bell, Beckey Route North Sister, South Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Plummer Peak, Standard Route Colonial Peak, Standard West Ridge Snowfield Peak, Neve Glacier McNeely, SW Ridge Mt. Buckindy, North Side Borah Peak, Chicken Out Ridge (SW Ridge) South Sister, Devil's Lake Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge ö Plummer Peak, Standard Route Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall North Sister, SE Ridge Mt. Washington, North Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Matterhorn and Sacajawea Peaks, Ice Lake North Sister, SE Ridge Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge ö Broken Top, Green Lakes—NW Ridge South Sister, Green Lakes South Sister, Devil's Lake Wheeler Peak (NV), Snake Divide Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge Broken Top, Green Lakes—NW Ridge Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer, Standard Route Eagle & Chutla Peak, Longmire Trail Observation Rock, Standard Ice Route

B+ A(N)(L#1464)(BCEP) B(N)(L#1462)(BCEP) C+(ICS) C(BCEP)(ICS) A+(BCEP)(ICS) B+(E)(L#1469)(BCEP) C+ B+(N)(L#1338)(BCEP)(ICS) A+(L#1337) B+ C+(E)(ICS) C+(ICS) B+(E) B+(E)(BCEP)(ICS) B+(A#1356 & #1357) A(N)(E)(L#1335)(BCEP) A(N)(L#1334)(BCEP) A+(L#1357 A#1358)(BCEP) B(L#1356 A#1358)(BCEP) A(E) B+(L#1454)(BCEP)(ICS) A+(L#1453)(BCEP) C+(BCEP)(ICS) A+(E) A(BCEP) B+(E) E(L#1347)(ICS)(AR) D(L#1346)(ICS)(AR) C+ B(BCEP) C+ A(P)(E) C+(E)(L#1482) C+(E)(L#1500) A(R)(E) C+(ICS) B(E) A(BCEP)(ICS) A(H) A(R) D(ICS)(AR) C+ C(ICS) C(BCEP)(ICS) C(BCEP)(ICS) A+ C+ A(N)(BCEP) B(L#1362)(BCEP) A(N)(L#1361)(BCEP) A(H) A+(E) B+(R)(BCEP)(ICS) B+ B(R)(A#1428)(BCEP) A(R)(A#1427)(BCEP) B+(ICS)(ASI)

Ryan Christie Rayce Boucher Rayce Boucher Tim Scott Robin Wilcox George Shay Larry Beck Bruce Yatvin Gary Ballou Amy Brose Rico Micallef Joseph Eberhardt Josh Lockerby Linda E. Mark Rayce Boucher Rico Micallef Richard Bronder Richard Bronder Rico Micallef Rico Micallef Elizabeth Copeland John Meckel John Meckel Terry Brenneman Doug Wilson Paul Steger Andrew Bodien Gary Ballou Gary Ballou Jon Major Gary Bishop Michael Hortsch Elizabeth Copeland Marty Scott Shirley Welch Ray Sheldon Bob Breivogel Ryan Christie George Shay Bruce Yatvin Ray Sheldon Gary Ballou Jill Kellogg John Meckel Josh Lockerby Alexander Fox Donna Vandall Amy Brose Richard Bronder Bill McLoughlin Bill McLoughlin Bruce Yatvin Kevin Clark Bob Breivogel Marty Scott Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Terry Brenneman

6 7 7 4 6 10 6 7 8 10 9 5 10 7 2 11 10 10 11 11 4 10 10 5 5 4 4 4 4 5 2 11 8 4 4 10 5 6 10 9 10 4 6 8 10 6 8 5 6 9 9 11 7 7 6 9 10 5

Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open

1435 1462 1464 1493 1497 1459 1470 1378 1337 1338 1355 1431 1479 1498 1465 1358 1334 1335 1356 1357 1437 1453 1454 1443 1419 1397 1487 1346 1347 1391 1403 1502 1503 1500 1482 1448 1426 1436 1458 1373 1410 1344 1413 1452 1480 1477 1434 1349 1371 1361 1362 1380 1429 1386 1484 1427 1428 1495

Got to mazamas.org/climb for FULL climb details before applying for a climb.

APRIL 2017 19

Climb Leader Addresses

Mail your completed climb cards directly to the climb leader of the climb you are applying for. Don’t forget to include a stamp on the card!

Climb Leader

Address

City, State, Zip

Email Address

Aarts, Wim Ballou, Gary Beck, Larry Bishop, Gary Bodien, Andrew Boucher, Rayce Brady, Justin Brady, Lisa Brainich, Eric Breaker, Jason Breivogel, Bob Brenneman, Terry Bronder, Richard Brose, Amy Bryan, Carol Buck, Jeremy Caldwell, Richard Campbell, Heather Campbell, Keith Carter, Matt Chambers, Jay Christie, Ryan Clark, Kevin Copeland, Elizabeth Cummings, George Eberhardt, Joseph Einspruch, Eric Fox, Alexander Gerbus, Dan Godino, John Gradison, Ellen Graham, Amy Gregory, Leora Harlson, Shane Harvey, Morgan Hortsch, Michael Kellogg, Jill Keutel, Walter Kiely, Eileen Kruell, Chris Labudda, Kirstin Lewins, Eugene Litwak, Jeff Lockerby, Josh Major, Jon Mark, Linda E. McLoughlin, Bill Meckel, John Micallef, Rico Mick, Daniel Miller, Thomas Newgard, Kirk Olson, Azure Osbron, Scott Pedersen, Lynne Ripps, Lisa Satak, Jay Scott, Marty Scott, Tim Shay, George

11533 SW 55th Ave. 4526 SE Salmon Ct 3307 SW Corbett AVE 1919 N Skidmore ST 6845 N Mears ST 1943 SE 26th AVE 10730 SE Mirandol ST 10730 SE Mirandol ST 4124 NE 24th AVE 1819 NE 191st Circle 272 NW Royal Blvd 16060 SW Sunset Blvd.

14209 NW 8th AVE 12208 NW Barnes Rd., Apt 219 14010 NE Airport DR 4744 SE 58th Ave 5521 SW Westdale Dr 925 NE 79th AVE 4290 SW Collins Way 2922 NE 44th AVE 550 Hillcrest RD 24495 Butteville RD NE 1909 NW Hoyt ST 7067 SE Pine Street 3816 NE 17th AVE 3001 NW Verde Vista Terrace PO Box 541 5039 NE Saddle CT 17805 SW Meadowbrook WAY 2845 SW Bucharest Ct 8275 NW Starview DR 8610 North Haven 18685 NW Grimmett DR 3205 SW Jaden Drive 222 SE Harrison St. #15E 13664 SW Aerie DR 15052 Fall River Dr. 1615 SE 20th AVE 18160 Cottonwood Rd PMB 139 3123 N Willamette Blvd, #104 2829 SE Schiller ST 8805 SW 49th AVE 1608 NE Knott ST 2923 SE 52nd AVE 9807 NE 81st CT 4612 SE 50th AVE 11642 NW Blackhawk DR 3740 SE Washington 12255 SW Tippitt PL 5939 N Wilbur AVE 3233 NW Wilson AVE 11061 SW Legacy Oak Way 16040 NW Elizabeth Ct 343 NW 16th AVE 753 NE 93rd AVE 7713 SE 140th Drive 1015 NE 89th Ave. 3724 NE 24th AVE 4629 NE 37th AVE 6417 SE 49th AVE

Portland, OR 97219 Portland, OR 97215 Portland, OR 97239 Portland, OR 97217 Portland, OR 97203 Portland, OR 97214 Happy Valley, OR 97086 Happy Valley, OR 97086 Portland, OR 97211 Ridgefield, WA 98642 Portland, OR 97210 Sherwood, OR 97140 Vancouver, WA 98685 Portland, OR 97229 Vancouver, WA 98684 Portland, OR 97206 Portland, OR 97221 Portland, OR 97213 Lake Oswego, OR 97035 Portland, OR 97213 St. Helens, OR 97051 Aurora, OR 97002 Portland, OR 97209 Portland, OR 97215 Portland, OR 97212 Portland, OR 97210 Lake Oswego, OR 97034 Hillsboro, OR 97124 Aloha, OR 97078 Portland, OR 97225 Corvallis, OR 97330 Portland, OR 97203-3424 Gales Creek, OR 97117 Beaverton, OR 97003 Portland, OR 97201 Tigard, OR 97223 Bend, OR 97707 Portland, OR 97214 Sunriver, OR 97707 Portland, OR 97217 Portland, OR 97202 Portland, OR 97219 Portland, OR 97212 Portland, OR 97206 Vancouver, WA 98662 Portland, OR 97206 Portland, OR 97229 Portland, OR 97214 Tigard, OR 97223 Portland, OR 97217 Portland, OR 97210 Tigard, OR 97223 Beaverton, OR 97006 Camas, WA 98607 Portland, OR 97220 Portland, OR 97236 Hillsboro, OR 97321 Portland, OR 97212 Portland, OR 97211 Portland, OR 97206

waarts@gmail.com 503-804-8370 grballou@gmail.com 503-234-1073 lawjbeck@comcast.net 503-319-0259 gbish90@hotmail.com 503-287-5366 andrew@bodien.org 503-281-7469 rayceboucher@gmail.com 503-320-8489 pdxg8tor@gmail.com 503-545-8327 pdxlisab@gmail.com 503-545-5510 ebrain@runbox.com 503-281-6679 breaker.jason@gmail.com 503-789-9254 breivog@teleport.com 503-292-2940 terreman@juno.com 503-860-7235 dickbronder@comcast.net 360-601-5744 amochka123@gmail.com 503-810-5333 cj_bryan@hotmail.com 360-883-3927 jeremybuck@mac.com 503-775-1009 rdccpa@qwestoffice.net 503-703-3851 heathermonkey@gmail.com 503-707-4203 vikingcampbell@aol.com 503-841-8283 mdcarter@opusnet.com 503-281-3845 climboften@gmail.com 503-396-0674 ryandchristie@yahoo.com 503-720-0300 kevin.arcturus@gmail.com beth.a.copeland@gmail.com 443-827-3409 gcmmings@gmail.com 503-288-2361 joeeberhardt@comcast.net 503-701-3448 eric.einspruch@teleport.com 503-621-2686 alexander.q.fox@gmail.com 517-214-9465 dgerbus@gmail.com 503-840-4672 johngo.pdx@gmail.com 503-502-1844 ellengradison@gmail.com 541 829 0484 ajoy.graham@gmail.com 503-871-9889 leoragregory@gmail.com 989-737-1414 smharlson@gmail.com 503-209-8761 morganharvey@gmail.com 503-953-3976 hmhortsch@gmail.com 503-309-5811 go.klahanie@me.com 541-740-6416 wakeupoutdoors@lettratext.com 503-799-6903 etkiely@gmail.com 503-329-8543 cpkpdx@gmail.com 503-780-9072 labuddak@gmail.com 503-915-5489 eugene.lewins@gmail.com 503-939-9657 jlitwak@alum.mit.edu 503-777-4758 jrlockerby@msn.com 503-750-6832 majorjon58@gmail.com 360-450-1901 mtn_goat_1@hotmail.com 503-788-8993 mcloughlinbill6@gmail.com 503-330-1080 meckel.traver@gmail.com 503-236-1486 r.micallef@outlook.com 503-810-7882 danieljmick@yahoo.com 503-954-6699 thomasm@e-c-co.com 503-318-1933 newgard.kirk@gmail.com 971-212-6393 azureolson@gmail.com 360-430-6118 Scott.Osbron@gmail.com 503-307-5870 LynnePedersen@gmail.com 971-678-6985 lisaripps@hotmail.com 971-678-9119 mtclimber@icloud.com 541-740-4279 martyscott@q.com 971-409-0023 timscott@alumni.princeton.edu 503-545-7896 gshay60@me.com 503-548-8488

20 MAZAMAS

Phone #

Climb Leader Addresses, continued from previous page Mail your completed climb cards directly to the climb leader of the climb you are applying for. Don’t forget to include a stamp on the card!

Climb Leader

Address

City, State, Zip

Email Address

Phone #

Sheldon, Ray Stagnone, Jay Steger, Paul Sundling, Matthew Underwood, Paul Vandall, Donna Warner, Steve Welch, Shirley Whittington, Joe Widener, Glenn Wiktorowicz, Ania Wilcox, Robin Willmarth, Greg Wilson, Doug Yatvin, Bruce

13915 NE 29th AVE 1444 SW Brislawn Loop RD 3723 NE 24th AVE 30955 SW Magnolia AVE 7834 SE Madison ST 7633 SW 51st PL 17967 SW Loxley DR 3724 NE 24th AVE 7840 SW Walnut LN 2911 SW Stanley CT 18558 S Grasle RD 35 NE Lombard Street 1402 SW Medwyn Ter 2376 W 9th ST 8561 SW Marissa DR

Vancouver, WA 98686 White Salmon, WA 98672 Portland, OR 97212 Wilsonville, OR 97070 Portland, OR 97215 Portland, OR 97219 Beaverton, OR 97007 Portland, OR 97212 Portland, OR 97225 Portland, OR 97219 Oregon City, OR 97045 Portland, OR 97211 Portland, OR 97219 Washougal, WA 98671 Tigard, OR 97223

rbshldn@pacifier.com jaystagnone@gmail.com paulsteger612@gmail.com matthew.sundling@gmail.com p_underwood@msn.com vanaan@yahoo.com steve_warner@comcast.net welclimb@yahoo.com joewhittington@gmail.com glennwidener@gmail.com aniaclimbs@gmail.com robinawilcox@gmail.com gwillmarth@yahoo.com dsnw100@comcast.net leader@yatvincc.net

360-574-0221 360-910-0776 503-998-6188 518-598-6544 503-577-9386 503-293-2894 503-806-9008 971-409-0024 503-706-2195 503-351-1178 503-989-1165 503-830-6993 971-284-5296 360-216-7490 503-452-8648

EMBARK EXPLORATION CO: KILIMANJARO! We are looking for a few more people to complete our February 2018 Kilimanjaro climb. There are four people confirmed, and we are looking for four more participants.

Contact donovan@embarkexplorationco.com

MOUNTAIN PERFORMANCE EYEWEAR

APRIL 2017 21

Activity: Round the Mountain 2017

HIKE

Around Mt. Hood & Support the Mazama Lodge!

by Shane Harlson, 2017 RTM Coordinator

J

oin the Mazamas 11th annual Round the Mountain (RTM) hike of Mt. Hood’s Timberline Trail over Labor Day weekend, Sept. 2–4. You will experience hiking a majestic 40 miles of the Timberline Trail with spectacular views of Mt. Hood and the beginning of autumn colors. Each morning a van shuttle will take you to your trailhead, where you will hike approximately 14 miles of the Timberline Trail with only a light daypack, allowing you to enjoy the hike without the burden of a heavy overnight pack. In the evening, you will return to Mazama Lodge, where you will enjoy great food, hot showers, and a comfortable place to sleep—along with a few good stories with your fellow hikers before turning in for the

night.

This event caters to a variety of hiking styles and paces. You will experience this journey with trained hike leaders who will oversee the safety of the group and cater the pace of the hike to your team's preference. Do you prefer to meander and take lots of photos? Or do you desire to move steadily and briskly? What if you wish to bring your whole family? We have a group for you! If you and a friend(s) or family member(s) are joining the event together, choose the pace of the slowest hiker and we will assign you to the same group.

There will be some new and exciting 22 MAZAMAS

changes to this year’s RTM. Most noticeably, the Elliot Glacier crossing is reconnected to the Timberline Trail via a re-route. We will finally hike a section of the Timberline Trail that we have been unable to safely offer since 2006. You will absolutely love this new section!

This year we will have new technical RTM t-shirts with a design that does not include a year. This allows previous RTM participants, who so wish, to finally order their long-awaited shirts.

Furthermore, we are adding another new option: an on-site massage therapist.

And finally, the new addition I am most excited about, we are

offering a small group the chance to register for a 4-day backpacking trip of the Timberline Trail. You must provide your own gear, food, and transportation, along with proving you are physically up to the challenge; the cost will be significantly lower than the traditional RTM trip.

We are working out all the details now, so stayed tuned for more to come.

This event is the largest annual fundraiser for Mazama Lodge—last year it raised approximately $8,000 dollars! These funds help pay for upkeep and maintenance of the lodge, supplies for the organization, and improvement projects. Registration for RTM 2017 is $400 for Mazama

members, and $460 for nonmembers.

We estimate that approximately 20 percent of these funds will go directly towards Mazama Lodge. Registration includes: catered meals for all three days (packed lunches included), dorm lodging for three evenings, hot showers, and van transportation all weekend.

Don’t miss out on this memorable event! For more information go to tinyurl.com/MazRTM. Questions?

E-mail us at rtm@mazamas.org.

Online registration opens April 1.

We’ll see you on the mountain!

For more hikes around Mt. Hood, check out books in the Mazamas Library with call #917.95 APRIL 2017 23

FIRST MAZAMA ASCENT OF PEAK 8,913

by John Meckel

M

azamas have been climbing mountains in the Pacific NW for over a hundred years. So, it would not seem possible for a Mazama first ascent unless it was by a difficult new route up an already climbed mountain. Yet such a possibility does exist. You just have to drive a long way and spend three days on the approach to the summit of an obscure and unnamed peak. Such peaks are relatively common in the Trinity Alps of northern California—a stunningly beautiful wilderness not much farther from Portland than the North Cascades. Mazama climb leader Verle Duckering led climbs in the Trinity Alps in the late 1980s through 1997. Other climb leaders led sporadic climbs of some of the major summits into the early 2000s. In the last several years, regular climbs in the Trinity Alps have resumed. In July 2016, four Mazamas reached the summit of Peak 8,913 (our name for it)—a peak that, as far as can be determined, no Mazama had previously climbed.

The plan for the climb was simple: get together a small number of climbers who had experience in the area and carry light packs with no climbing gear. If the climbing became too difficult, we would not reach the summit. The first day’s hike was a nine-mile walk up the Canyon Creek trail to Canyon Creek Boulder lakes. We were the only people camping at the lakes, which are nestled on a granite slab in a granite bowl with a commanding view

24 MAZAMAS

across the canyon towards Sawtooth Mountain—the fourth highest peak in the Trinity Alps. The last half-mile of this trail resembles a dry creek bed and is described in hiking books as one of the roughest and steepest trails in the Alps. Daytime temperatures were rather moderate and only reached into the low 80s—perfect for swimming.

The next morning, the climb team ascended the north side of the bowl

towards Mt. Hilton, the third highest peak in the Alps. The first part of this climb was up granite slabs and then up a small creek, which was the only way through a steep slope of dense, head-high manzanita. After the creek disappeared, a bit of bushwhacking led us to more open slopes covered in small meadows and wild flowers. After we dropped our packs, we continued up towards the summit crossing small snowfields and rock bands. A final,

steepish snow field and some easy rock scrambling brought us to the summit of Mt. Hilton and a summit register with entries by Verle Duckering and Jack Grauer dating back to 1992. There was not a cloud in the sky and the view went from the Pacific coast to Mt. Lassen, and from Oregon to deep into the Sacramento Valley. Mt. Shasta was close on the eastern skyline. After we descended to our packs, we hiked a bit farther and set up a camp on a ridgeline near a small stream. The crosscountry hike and climb had taken the better part of 12 hours.

The third day, we moved camp over to the next ridge. Frequent bear scat, some of it rather fresh, got our attention. After leaving all our heavy gear, we started up toward Peak 8,913. We hiked up on snow along the Hilton arĂŞte, and descended the arĂŞte on 35 snow to more level terrain. We then ascended the snowfield towards the col south of Peak 8,913. Photographs from previous trips and topo maps suggested that the south ridge would be easy enough to climb without special gear. Initially, this proved to be true as the team ascended snow fingers and boulder fields, but as we got closer to the summit, it became clear that small cliffs would block our way. The climb team solved this problem by probing every possibility, finally exploiting a weakness on the west side of the summit block to reach the summit.

This route, involving 4th and very low 5th class scrambling up solid granite blocks, proved to be fairly easy even without gear.

The only difficulty we encountered was deciding which route we could down-climb

safely. There was no summit register, but someone had left a small cairn to show that we were not the first to climb the mountain.

Again, the view was spectacular and the same as from Mt. Hilton the day before, except that we could now see Mt. Hilton to the southwest as well as Papoose Lake, a lake we had not been able to see from any of our previous summits.

We descended the route to our packs, but realizing that in the early morning, hard snow would make our descent to the valley below very difficult, we moved camp farther down the ridge.

Our camp that night was both below the snow line and farther from the bear scat. Thus ended another 12 hour day. That night the temperature reached the high 30s.

The fourth day, we spent 5 hours descending another several thousand feet, constantly finding ourselves cliffed out and forced to bushwhack through heavy brush.

It was a welcome relief to reach Canyon Creek and the hiker trails which brought us back to the Canyon Creek Lakes, only 8 miles from the trailhead where adult beverages and greasy, salty snacks awaited us.

The climb team for Mt. Hilton included John Meckel, Al Papesh, Mark Curran,

Jean Hillebrand, Greg Clark, and Karoline Gottschild. The team for 8,913 consisted of John Meckel, Al Papesh, Mark Curran, and Jean Hillebrand.

Photos clockwise from left: Al Papesh, Mark Curren, Jean Hillebrand, and John Meckel bagging the peak. Snow fields below Peak 8913. The last pitch to the summit. Scrambling to the summit.

Photos: Al Papash

For more information on the Trinity Alps in California, check out books in the Mazamas Library with call #917.94 APRIL 2017 25

How to Climb Silver Star in the North Cascades

by Darrin Gunkel

I

t didn’t bode well. I was sure that when George said, “OK I’ve got ski poles,” he meant he had mine, too. No. Mine were undoubtedly still leaning against the hedge at his house in Seattle. So we stood there in the morning sun, watching a scrub jay hop around in the middle of Route 2, brainstorming alternatives, none of which any reasonable person would actually consider for a ski mountaineering trip on an 8,875 foot mountain. Share? Cut branches? Tape ice axes together?

26 MAZAMAS

Left: On Silver Star Glacier. Inset: More field repairs.

Photos: Darrin Gunkel.

For more on Silver Star and North Cascades, check out books in the Mazamas Library with call #917.97 May on the dry side of the north cascades: flowers, sunshine, the smell of Ponderosa pines in the air. Nice day for a drive. So we headed into Mazama, the nearest town, to look for an outfitter.

Services are kind of limited in Mazama, but a shop owner directed us to a tour guide who luckily turned out to be home and was cool enough to let me just borrow a pair. “Silver Star? One of my favorite backcountry ski trips.” He agreed with our choice to blow off Beckey’s approach instructions, which involved too much altitude gained, lost and regained for

my taste, instead following Silver Star Creek from where it crosses Route 2. “Just remember to keep to the left.”

You couldn’t ask for a finer day, but the trip would have been a lot easier a month earlier, before the snow melt exposed all the blowdown littering the climbers’ track.

It also would have been a lot easier starting many hours earlier, before the canyon walls above Silver Star Creek began reflecting the day’s heat, but a late start and our little pole misadventure killed that idea.

One advantage: So much blow down. That meant plenty of places to sit, study the

map, and contemplate how out of shape we both felt.

Fourteen hundred feet and a mile later (it’s too embarrassing to say how long this took us) we encountered our first snow field spilling down from the heights. The canyon had been narrowing, and where we stopped to put on skis, an unseen waterfall rumbled. Time to say goodbye to the creek and tedious woods and start really moving. Or not. A quarter of the way up, George’s skins began to malfunction. Time

continued on next page APRIL 2017 27

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Silver Star and the Wine Spires.

telemark boots after (how many more?) hours of slogging didn’t seem wise. Not to mention the black diamond-level ski back down, and then having to navigate that semi-bushwhack of an approach. To work off our frustration, we threw snowballs at each other until George realized that this way, we could get dinner and beers in Winthrop before the drive home. With this consolation prize in mind, we wadded and stowed our masses of used duct tape, and sailed down some of the most glorious backcountry skiing I’ve ever done.

28 MAZAMAS

I love skinning uphill, especially when the snow’s perfect, and the slope is reasonable. (Alpine skiers, and climbers, often 'skin' the bottoms of their skis in order to climb upward.) You get into a rhythm, and the work becomes almost a Zen thing. However, Zen things are not really about speed. We’d set a 12:30 p.m. turn-around time, and it was 9 a.m. before we made it to the top of this first pitch. We took our time traversing to Silver Star’s glacial moraine, admiring the bare larch trees and the long, long views north over the endless ridges of the Pasayten Wilderness. Breaking for lunch on the moraine, I wondered why we hadn’t camped up here, closer to the peak. From this spot, we still had 2200 feet to go, and things were not looking good. We both had to reapply duct tape (it was kind of amazing our field fixes actually managed to hold this far), we were woefully behind schedule, and neither of us had exerted ourselves remotely this hard since a trip up Shuksan the previous July.

We hit the wall at 7,600 feet. George was sure we could make it all the way (only 1,300 feet more!) but we’d reached our turn around, and the thought of doing a class 4 scramble at 8,500 feet in uncomfortable

to break out the duct tape and limp on.

After gaining another 300 feet and a half mile, we got our first view of Silver Star and the spiky range of the Wine Spires. And it just so happened the view spot was at the foot of a boulder field with enough melted out space for a camp. We probably should have forged on, but the day had grown long and discouraging. Why not kick back and enjoy the afternoon? We entertained ourselves watching shadows of jagged peaks reach across the U-shaped glacial valley and submitting to camp inspections by the world’s cutest climbing rangers: pikas. Besides, we only had a little over 2 miles and 3,800 feet left to go. Piece of cake tomorrow morning ...

The next day promised more perfect conditions. We made our way across a scenic basin, about a half mile of relaxing skiing to warm up. The going was about to get tough, with a half mile and 1500 feet of slogging to get out of the basin, but on such a fine day, what could go wrong? The lift on my left ski could break. Fortunately, a pile of rock jutted out of the snow nearby.

A little searching and George turned up a perfect little wedge of granite, just the right size to fit under my heel. More duct tape to secure it, and I was ready to bag that peak!

l

Silver Star, continued from previous page

About the Author: Darrin Gunkel considers himself lucky to make it up a challenging peak in three tries. So, in 20 years of wandering the Cascades, he’s learned how to make the most of attempts. He puts to constructive use lessons learned in both success and failure assisting BCEP.

MAZAMA LODGE YOUR HOME ON THE MOUNTAIN

Mazama Mountain Science School students using the trail rope to reach Mazama Lodge in the snow. Photo: Teri Smith

SPRING SKIING We are expecting good spring skiing throughout the month of April. Although the Lodge is full the first three Saturdays of April with BCEP teams, we do have plenty of space available Saturday, April 22 and April 29. At the moment we are at 134 percent of average on snowpack and are expecting skiing well into May. THANK YOU A big thank you goes out member Wilma McNulty who graciously donated a beautiful dresser to the caretaker apartment.

Also a big thank you to lodge committee member Jim VanLente who delivered the dresser up to the lodge in 4 feet of snow.

This past week even the garbage service couldn’t get picked up because the trash can had been buried in so much snow. Again Jim VanLente rescues us again and took our garbage down to the transfer station. Thank you Jim! A thank you to Brett and Aaron who are finishing up their second winter as caretakers at Mazama Lodge. They are headed up to Alaska were they purchased a log cabin just outside Denali National Park. Renee Moore will be back at the lodge for her third summer. Renee is graduating this spring from PSU with a degree in speech pathology.

503.684.9698

APRIL 2017 29

HIGH POINTING 101 30 MAZAMAS

1

Clockwise, from top: Nearing the summit of Mt. Eddy Trinity county California highpoint and prominence point. Sunrise vista of the East side of Mt. Thielsen on the way to Mt. Thielsen East Peak. About to travel the Knife Edge traverse to the summit of Katahdin, Maine state highpoint. Photos: Daniel Mick.

by Daniel Mick

S

everal years ago I suffered from a hiking and climbing paradox of choice. Overwhelmed by the number of options, bored by the obvious pursuits, and frustrated by not being able to get on climbs of the 16 peaks, I sought something else to fulfill my curiosity and appetite for novelty. While investigating the 100 highest peaks in Oregon I discovered multiple competing lists (it’s due to prominence, explained briefly below). While researching further, I came across peakbagger.com, a site dedicated to highpointing where I discovered hundreds (!) of other peak lists of all kinds. It was exactly what I was seeking—an endless source of climbing goals. I was immediately hooked on highpointing.

continued on next page

APRIL 2017 31

High Pointing, continued from previous page Defined highpoint lists are a relatively modern concept.

The golden climbing era of the 1800s heavily focused on first ascents. Sir Hugh Munro drafted what is considered the first highpointing list in 1891, and listed 282 “Munros,” or Scotland peaks over 3,000 feet in elevation. The earliest known reference to a U.S. highpoint list for a single state is a 1909 article in National Geographic Magazine. At the time, five states were not part of the Union, many states had unknown highpoints, other states had unconfirmed elevations, and some highpoints were misidentified and later corrected. Modern advances in technology have clarified information about peaks themselves, and

32 MAZAMAS

allowed us to communicate our fascination with climbing and sharing data about the best way to climb them.

Contemporary highpointing is a worldwide hobby and there are communities and individuals around the world pursuing peak lists.

For clarification, highpointing and peakbagging are both list-based pursuits of summits. Technically, highpointing focuses on the point of highest elevation within multiple defined areas, while peakbagging focuses on climbing every peak of a certain elevation or other designation within a single area. The given area could be a mountain range, state, country, or even the world. For most, the terms highpointing and peakbagging

are essentially interchangeable.

I prefer the term highpointing since it embodies the spirit of climbing better. (Thank you, Eileen Kiely!) You are already familiar with the Mazamas 16 Peaks list, and likely familiar with other famous lists such as the Colorado 14ers (54 peaks), Seven Summits, or New England 4,000ers (68 peaks).

Yet, there are hundreds of other peak lists around the world such as state/county/country highpoints, other climbing club’s lists, and various threshold lists like the 8,000 meter peaks (14 peaks), Oregon 9,000 foot peaks (31 peaks), and many more.

There are groups and resources specifically dedicated to highpointing.

The Highpointers Club, at highpointers.org, is dedicated to the U.S. state highpoints and has thousands of members and an annual convention.

The website peakbagger.com, the definitive central hub for peak information and personal summit tracking is run entirely free by Greg Slayden. (Please support with your donations!)

Peakbagger has more than 13,000 active members worldwide, more than 83,000 trip reports, and 22,000 GPS tracks. There are individual members on Peakbagger who have logged more than 5,000 ascents, climbed more than 3 million vertical feet, hiked more than 10,000 miles, and filed more than 1,000 trip reports. Clearly, highpointing is a popular hobby.

So, why highpointing?

Components such as exploration, exercise, social outlet, communing with nature, etc. are shared both by highpointing and mountaineering.

Mountaineering tends to focus on the challenging quality of

the summit, while highpointing tends to focus on the existential aspect of summiting, meaning, because it’s there.

If it’s on the list, it must be climbed, even if it’s an easy peak. As Greg Slayden states, highpointers are apt to ask, “If the goal is the summit, how one gets there is not important.

Why not just go up the easiest route possible?” Most highpointing groups agree that any route to the top is valid, whether climbing, hiking, or driving. Personal choice and style dictate whether a certain distance or elevation gained is necessary for personal accomplishment, regardless of the easiest route up.

So, why highpointing if some summits aren’t climbs? Low elevation and non-technical summits can be scoffed at by “true” mountaineers. Nonetheless, most any highpoint list will include technical peaks by necessity. Take for example the Oregon highpoints list. Many are familiar mountaineering objectives: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Thielsen, etc.

Others are long hikes: Mt. McLoughlin, Saddle Mountain, Buck Peak, etc. While still others are drive-ups or involve little elevation gain: Mary’s Peak, Sherman County Highpoint, etc. Highpointing complements mountaineering.

First, most lists contain numerous technical climbs and long-distance hikes, as well as quick challenging scrambles and lazy day jaunts. Some easy summits are a welcome change of pace, or purposeful training.

Second, it takes many years to complete even the shortest list (how long have YOU been working on the 16 peaks?).

Finally, within any list there are numerous climbs, hikes, and outings of high quality because

The author on the way to Mt. Thielsen East Peak and Howlock Mountain. Photo: Daniel Mick.

of their beauty, novelty, and fun, whether they’re difficult or not. All mountains can be enjoyed in a variety of ways.

My current highpointing priorities are the U.S. states and Oregon, which will keep me busy for years to come.

In Oregon, I am climbing the Top 100 Elevation peaks (with prominence >500 feet), Top 100 Prominence peaks, county high points, and county prominence points. I have combined these into an Ultimate Oregon List.

There are 188 unique peaks on my list excluding duplicates, and including a couple dozen personal additions (National Forest high points, lookouts, etc). I track this custom list at Peakbagger at tinyurl. com/jbhkvqr. Topographic prominence is the height of a peak above its highest saddle.

In other words, regardless of its elevation, how much it sticks up from surrounding peaks and the next highest peak is its prominence. For example, Little Tahoma on Mt. Rainier is 11,138 feet tall but

has a prominence of 818 feet, its height above the ridge it’s on. Mt. Rainier itself is 14,411 feet tall and has a prominence of 13,210 feet, its height above the “saddle” of the next higher mountain, Mt. Whitney. Prominence is important for elevation lists since a lower prominence threshold means different peaks must be climbed.

Prominence will be explained in more detail in a future Bulletin article.

Highpointing is a fulfilling hobby in itself. Speaking from personal obsession, er, experience, there are many benefits to the list-based highpointing approach. Here are the most significant factors for me: PURPOSE At the most basic, highpointing has provided me direction. As mentioned, I used to stumble amongst hikes and climbs on a whim. Now, I have clearly defined goals and the amount of time I spend outside has

Technically, highpointing focuses on the point of highest elevation within multiple defined areas, while peakbagging focuses on climbing every peak of a certain elevation or other designation within a single area. exploded. The satisfaction of checking peaks off my lists is palpable. Highpointing is FUN! VARIETY I thrive on novelty and love exploring. The current lists of Mazama climbs and hikes unfortunately do not represent the wealth of options available in Oregon. Highpointing has taken me to every corner of the state. And rather than trudging up yet another crumbling cascade cone, I have hiked and climbed at every elevation amongst every geology around the state.

EXPLORATION There are tons of adventurous perks in highpointing. The

process of highpointing inherently involves dabbling in geography and history; a greater respect for the environment, land use, and access; and opportunities for year-round outings and learning. For example, one notable perk is that almost every lookout tower in the state is on a high prominence point.

Also, hot springs, ghost towns, mining and logging remnants, and other treasures are often nearby to explore in quiet corners of the state.

PERSPECTIVE Literally—I’ve come to appreciate major mountaineering objectives more while highpointing. The APRIL 2017 33

High Pointing, continued from previous page best views I’ve experienced have been gazing on significant peaks from nearby summits. I am also quickly becoming encyclopedic in my knowledge of the name of every surrounding peak, butte, and feature when gazing out from a summit. Figuratively—I’ve come to appreciate the vast variety of outdoor recreation options in Oregon even more, and understand peaks and ranges intimately. I now have a plan of attack of how I want to enjoy them.

GROWTH Highpointing made massive contributions to my mountaineering. My orienteering, off-trail travel, forest road navigation, and trip planning skills are exceptional because of the detailed research sometimes required for obscure summits.

And as mentioned above, I’m climbing peaks I may have never even heard of otherwise. I’m a better-prepared and wellrounded climber.

34 MAZAMAS

There are many relatively unknown joys out there that I’ve “discovered” during highpointing that I recommend as well. Stay in Drake Peak Lookout, the highest rent-able lodging in Oregon (8,222 feet) and hike the nearby ridge-running Fremont National Trail. You know the Three Sisters, but do you know about the nearby Brother, Husband, and Wife?

Climb or scramble the pristine granite of the Elkhorns, gaze into Nevada and Idaho from the monolith of Steens Mountain.

Summit multiple peaks every day in the towering Wallowas. The opportunities are endless.

I encourage you to follow a list or create your own to make your mountaineering more enjoyable and fulfilling. The Oregon 9,000ers (31 peaks) or county high points (32 peaks) have good variety. For something quick, complete the Crater Lake Five, or the Strawberry Seven. For something ambitious, try the Oregon 2,000 Prominence (74 peaks), or a Top

100 list. If you’re an active climber, you’ve already made good progress on many of these lists. Why not complete them? I’m always looking for highpointing partners so feel free to contact me. Other dedicated highpointers in the Mazamas include Bob Breivogel, Joe Whittington, Ardel Frick, and Doug Wilson. With enough interested Mazamas, more climbs and hikes will be specifically focused on highpoint lists. See you at the top!

Daniel Mick has been a Mazama member since 2010. He is an A-climb leader and provisional C-climb leader. He is a nursing faculty and researcher. Daniel lives with his partner Amy and their cats Marshall, Spike, and Ollie.

For more on Highpointing, check out books in the Mazamas Library with call #917.3

WHAT I WISHED I’D ASKED IN BCEP A

by Michael Vincerra; interviews with Eric Lubell and Brad Farra

year after graduating BCEP in 2016, I wish I’d asked more specifics on conditioning.

Like a lot of guys, I was stubborn enough to believe I was in good aerobic shape. I ran trails about 5–7 miles per week, ran stairs at least once—often twice—per week, and practiced i-Chuan T’ai Chi ( fighting style). So why was I still winded at the end of training hikes? Some questions still nagged at me: If I carry weighted packs and run stairs as part of my conditioning, exactly how much weight should I carry to start?

Should I carry 50 lb or a specific amount more than I expect to carry? And if so, should I start at 50 lb, or at the greater amount, right away?

It wasn’t until I joined Mazamas in 2015 that I realized my mistakes. In my efforts to condition with overweighted and unwieldy backpacks I was doing it all wrong.

In 2015, I made my first trip to the Dolomites in Italy, where I used the same backpack in the city as I did climbing in the mountains. On the Bocca di Brenta, part of Parco Naturale Adamello Brenta, I lugged a 45 lb pack up iron ladders of several hundred feet. Climbing above a glacier on iron rung ladders was relatively easy. Except for my unwieldy pack. My pack shifted and knocked me off balance by its sheer weight. So why did I climb with a 45+ lb pack? You guessed it.

Poor planning. (And that was after I’d already discarded items in Trentino.) It seems simple: Ask why you pack what you pack and how often you will need it (10 essentials aside). But how do we prepare for the weight we’ll carry when conditioning months in advance? I asked two Portland fitness experts, Eric Lubell and Brad Farra, of Evolution Healthcare

and Fitness, to help me understand the best way to train for weighty backpacks.

Eric Lubell: As with any new exercise routine, you should work into it incrementally to help avoid the potential for injury. With stairs, the most we typically carry is our body weight.

Immediately loading up 50 lb is a strain on the shoulders, back, hips, knees, ankles, and even the feet. There are a lot of things you can do to help ease the transition.

First, start small and increase the weight incrementally, no more than 7–10 pounds per week as long as you are getting 2–3 sessions in per week. Second, get a pack with a hip belt similar to something you would wear mountaineering or backpacking. Make sure it fits you correctly—there are sizes, and just like shoes, a poor fit can cause problems.

A pack can help distribute the weight and load it onto the body efficiently. In addition, make sure to try and distribute the actual weight in the pack. One 50 lb weight at the bottom of the pack is not nearly as good as actually loading the pack with gear to be as representative of the actual load for your trip as possible. So, use your tent and your stove and all that other gear, supplementing as necessary, gallons of water work well, to get up to the desired weight. With the total weight, definitely aim to get heavier than the

goal weight for the trip. Practicing with more will help the load feel lighter when it matters most. Remember that while stairs provide a convenient workout they are only a rough approximation of walking up the side of a mountain. There are few variations in the terrain and the steps are generally identical in height and width, two things that are very uncommon in the natural world. Try to supplement stair workouts with similar training on Dog Mountain or Angels Rest at least once per week if at all possible. Angels Rest is only 30 minutes outside of Portland.

The Tillamook State Forest offers great training (Elk or King Mountain) for folks living on the west side.

Brad Farra: I would emphasize the benefit of strength training exercises like weighted squats or lunges to benefit the strength and endurance needed to carry a pack in the mountains. These exercises would also, of course, include training the core and all the accessory muscles as well.

Without a strong core, one cannot use the strong muscles of the hips and thighs optimally and we are left vulnerable to injury.

Evolution Healthcare and Fitness contributors: Brad Farra, D.C., CCSP, CSCS, is a Certified Chiropractic Sports Physician, and a Certified Strength & Conditioning Specialist; and Eric Lubell is the Director of Training Operations.

APRIL 2017 35

Our Biggest and Best Mazama Mountain Science School Ever 600 children learned science and safety in the snow.

by Claire Nelson

M

azama Mountain Science School (MMSS) wrapped up our third, biggest and best season yet in March. In fact, we beat our enrollment goals for 2017 by over 100 students! This winter we partnered with Centennial School District, Capitol Hill, Hayhurst and Irvington Elementary in the Portland Public Schools, and Sacramento Elementary School in Parkrose School District to provide science education to more than 600 4–5 grade students.

Over the course of three days and two nights, students learned about physics by sledding behind the Mazama Lodge, glaciology and snow science through snow shelter building, and other hands-on lessons that meet state science standards in math, science, and geology. Every session wraps up with youth presentations about an exciting topic they learned about to share with their fellow classmates. MMSS not only builds scientific literacy, but inspires the next generation of young people to care about our environment and mountain by building fun and meaningful memories of Mt. Hood.

A thank you to the Mazama Lodge for housing our students and instructors throughout the winter. Everyone, of course,

36 MAZAMAS

enjoyed the awesome food and had a blast playing inside and outside the Mazama Lodge. Students got to take, what for many, was their first snow shoe hike on Mt. Hood, and this year we had the snow to do it!

We of course could not operate such an impactful program without our partners.

Mazamas partners with Multnomah Education Service District (MESD) to provide quality education and programming at the Mazama Lodge. Our MMSS instructors are the same instructors who have taught hundreds of 4 and 6 grade students for Outdoor School and the Oregon Trail Overnight program. MMSS 2017 was managed by Shauna "Chomps" Stevenson, Amanda "Weasel" Duncan, and staff

members Emily "Goose" Lootens, Kristoffer "Thunder" Thums, Celia "Mycelium" McLean, Brandi "Sparrow" Boyett, and Elizabeth "River" Longmire.

MSR provided snow shoes for our program, and BOGS boots donated warm boots. Both enabled our students to learn and play in the snow for hours. West Outward Bound also generously lent us extra rain and snow gear, snow shoes, and boots for MMSS students. As always, thank you to the Mazama members who generously support our youth programming and the Grey Family Foundation for helping make this program a possibility.

MEET CLAIRE NELSON

Mazamas welcomes Claire Nelson as new Youth and Outreach Program Manager Prior to accepting this position, Claire served as the West Coast Program Manager for Big City Mountaineers where she was responsible for BCM’s youth-serving programs in California, Oregon, and Washington. Big City Mountaineers is based at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden Colorado, and works to transform the lives of under-served youth through wilderness mentoring expeditions.

Before moving to Portland in 2013, Claire lived and worked in Austin, Texas and was the Program Manager for Explore Austin, a nonprofit dedicated to changing the lives of under-served youth through leadership, mentoring, and adventure. Claire’s responsibilities and experience include recruiting, training, and managing both seasonal staff and volunteers, facilitating wilderness experiences, coordinating program logistics, risk management, incident response, and even field evacuations! She has worked as a certified

climbing guide with KAF Adventures, Outward Bound, and Outpost Wilderness Adventures and holds an SPI certification from our friends at the American Mountain Guides Association. Claire is an avid rock and alpine climber and also enjoys reading fiction, playing the piano and the occasional sequined dance party.

Claire holds a Masters Degree from Portland State University in Leadership for Sustainability Education, and a BS in Environmental Studies from Oberlin College. She has focused her studies and work on incorporating social justice curriculum and equitable practices into environmental education.

Here at the Mazamas, she'll be overseeing

the Mazama Mountain Science School, Adventure WILD! Day Camp, Youth Outreach programming, work with our Families program, and more. She is thrilled to be joining the Mazamas community and building upon the great work that Kati Mayfield began.

Photo: Betties 360

BETTIES 360 The Mazamas were excited to host 20 “Betties 360” girls in March for lessons in climbing equipment, basic knots, and climbing technique.

Betties 360 is an after-school program that inspires confidence, well-being and community in girls through action sports, outdoor adventure, and life skill education. It was a ton of fun to see so many young women take to the ropes, many for their very first time! Thank you to all our volunteers who made climbing with this great group of girls possible!

APRIL 2017 37

PAUL HERNER

DAVID W. F. MCNEIL

June 22, 1936–Feb. 18, 2017

Nov. 5, 1951–Nov. 1, 2016

Paul Herner was born in Pomona, California in June of 1936. He attended the US Naval Academy and graduated in 1958. Paul then moved to Oregon and worked for the Forest Service designing roads and campgrounds in the Oregon Cascades. He joined the Mazamas in 1968, became a climb leader, served on Executive Council and was Mazamas President in 1978-79.

He continued to climb mountains as long as he was able because, in his words, "as long as us Mazamas are climbing we're not over the hill yet."

Paul retired in 1994 after 27 years at the Bonneville Power Administration. He then traveled the United States in a motorhome, doing volunteer trail building and maintenance in National Parks and Forests as the opportunity arose. In 2015 he was recognized by Portland Public Parks for his years of volunteer gardening at the Peninsula Park Rose Garden.

Paul passed away peacefully on February 18. As a celebration of his life there will be a special free ethnic Scandinavian dance on Monday, April 17 from 8:30–10 p.m. at Nordia House, 8800 SW Oleson Road in Portland.

David W. F. McNeil passed away unexpectedly Nov. 1.

David was born in Boston, Mass. to Susan Young McNeil and Willard Francis McNeil. His formative years were spent in Needham and Boxford, MA. In 1980 he graduated from Lewis and Clark Law School and became a member of the Oregon State Bar in May 1981. David married his sweetheart, Linda Fisk McNeil in 1981. They were happily married 35 years.

Twin sons Matthew and Jacob joined them in 1990. David was a devoted and loving husband and father.

David joined the Mazamas in 1978, and made many lifelong friends. He was active in the rock, mountaineering, and ice climbing programs as both a Climb Leader and Advanced Climbing Instructor.

David was at one time a member of Portland Mountain Rescue, and was among the searchers in the Oregon Episcopal School tragedy in 1986. He climbed many peaks and rock faces in the Northwest and Yosemite Valley and attempted two peaks in Mexico.

In September 2016 he climbed Chief Joseph Mt. (Joseph, OR) and Sharp Top in Virginia. He also loved bicycling, skiing, running, iceskating, and inline racing. In 1974 he rode his bicycle 2600 miles (solo) in the Western US. He also cycled from Portland, Oregon to Washington, DC, in 1987, with long time Mazama friend David Schermer. In 1979 he ran in the Portland Marathon. In 2000 David set a goal of running 2000 miles and ran the final leg on December 31.

A Celebration of Life service will be held for David McNeil on Saturday, April 22, 2017, at 2 p.m., at New Hope Community Church, 11731 SE Stevens Rd, Happy Valley, OR 97086.

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members: 13

Milan Apeltauer—Mt. Shuksan Maureen Delaney—Old Snowy Don Dewitt—Mt. Adams John Hallett—Mt. St. Helens Aimee Llewellyn-Zaidi—Mt. St. Helens Kincaid Murray—South Sister

Charles Nobel—Mt. Olympus Kevin Pitino—Mt. Hood Ian Powell—Mt. Adams Jamse Prihoda—Mt. Hood Jason Sahlin—South Sister Ellen Simmons—Mt. St. Helens Evan Zener—Mt. Admas

Reinstatements: 7 Deceased: 1 Paul Herner (1968) Total Membership: Feb. 2016—3,393; Feb. 2017—3,435

38 MAZAMAS

STAY CONNECTED ▶▶ Like us on Facebook: facebook.com/mazamas. pdx ▶▶ Follow us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag us in your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶▶ Subscribe to our blog: mazamas.blogspot.com ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/ mazamas. ▶▶ Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin.

Go to tinyurl.com/MazamasAds for details.

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership.

JOIN the Mazamas today! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the most active mountaineering organizations in the country: mazamas.org/join • DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities • This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly.

• DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms.

• Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood.

• The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers, delivered in August.

• Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters.

• Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.

BOSNIA & MONTENEGRO

WHAT HAPPENED TO THAT 1950S CLIMBING FASHION? As part of ongoing efforts to build awareness of the Mazamas Library and Historical Collections, Mathew Brock has been leading tours of the collections for current BCEP students. The brief visits provide an overview of the library's circulating collection and use of the library. BCEP students are then given a behind the scenes tour of the vault and museum artifact collections.

Favorite objects among recent visitors include the Mt. Hood bicycle and the Mazamas impressive collection of wooden handle ice axes. If the schedule didn't work out for your BCEP team, or if you'd like a tour, contact the Library and Historical Collections Manager at mathew@mazamas.org to arrange a visit.

Be sure to follow the Mazamas on Facebook and Instagram (@mazamaspdx) for more on the history of the Mazamas and selections from our vast photograph collection.

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APRIL 2017 39

IT Project Update

by Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications The past few months have been extremely busy as work proceeds on schedule for the IT Project. To recap the project for those who are just joining us: A major part of the Mazamas 3-year plan, adopted in 2015, was to reinvent our IT systems to catch up to twenty-first century technology. The database solutions we have been using are antiquated, and much of the data that flows through the Mazamas is not captured in our current database. Data such as class registrations, hiking participants, outings participants, and nonmember interactions with the organization are not tracked in one connected system. This project will solve those challenges by creating a database and website that are connected, in which all activities, courses, and membership information flows through one centralized location.

As you can imagine this is a BIG undertaking. We started this process in 2015 by hiring OMBU Web to work with us to determine our system needs and define the project scope. That process involved listening sessions with committees, discussions with key volunteers, and staff interviews. Through those meetings we built a framework for our new system.

Once the framework was developed we set work building the new system. The build will be completed in three phases: CRM & IT Tools, Website, and Activities & MultiPart Activities.

TIMELINE

CRM & IT TOOLS CRM stands for customer relationship management. The Mazamas will be utilizing Salesforce as our CRM solution.

The benefits of Salesforce are significant. It is an extremely widespread CRM tool that receives constant updates and revisions.

FEBRUARY 2017 Begin Website UX Design

40 MAZAMAS

It is heavily used by nonprofits as it has incredibly competitive pricing for the nonprofit sector. OMBU has built out the Mazamas Salesforce platform with the custom specifications and features needed to manage our broad organization. As the CRM is the brains of the entire system, it was very important to get it built just right.

OMBU is currently fixing some of the last few bugs in the CRM. WEBSITE & USER PROFILES Now that we have built the brains of the system, we are beginning the work of redesigning the Mazama website. A website is more than just a static way to get information to a reader. Websites these days need to be dynamic, with up to the minute data, easy accessibility and navigation on mobile systems such as smartphones and tablets, and a customized experience for the user.

We have created a new site map that better reflects what the Mazamas does as an organization. This new design will allow a user to quickly and easily find what they need on our site. Our site map is organized around four main buckets of content—Education, Activities, Community, and Get Involved—as the main menu. An Involvement menu will provide direct access to important points of visitor engagement, including joining the organization, volunteering, and logging in to the site, with a utility menu providing quick access to a fully faceted calendar, site search, and About Us functionality.

Whether it is searching the classes we are offering, finding an activity for the upcoming weekend, or learning about the Mazamas history, the information will be quickly accessible.

APRIL 2017 Website: Visual Design

MARCH 2017 Complete CRM & IT Tools

AUGUST 2017 Website & User Profiles Complete

JUNE Kickoff Activities & MultiPart Activities UX Design

ACTIVITIES & MULTI-PART ACTIVITIES: CONNECTING THE DOTS This will the last part of the system to be built, and it involves connecting the CRM & IT Tools and Website & User Profiles to create a robust user experience for everyone who interacts with the Mazamas.

With the new website, a few of the things you will be able to do: ▶▶ Create a profile ▶▶ Manage your Mazama membership ▶▶ Update your contact information ▶▶ Sign up for classes and activities ▶▶ Sign up for a volunteer project ▶▶ Track your volunteer hours ▶▶ Get all information about your class or activity ▶▶ View your entire history of interaction with the Mazamas (membership history, climb & hike history, education history) Class Coordinators & Activity Leaders will be able to: ▶▶ Manage activities ▶▶ Manage courses ▶▶ Source volunteers ▶▶ Manage a committee/team members ▶▶ Propose email communications to a segmented group of people (i.e. email everyone who has taken Advanced Rock in the last year) This is just an overview of some of the things a user will be able to do on the new Mazama website. We are excited to keep moving this project forward and deliver a great product to Mazama members, volunteers, and the larger community of people who participate with the Mazamas.

You can keep up to date on the project at mazamasitproject.org.

NOV 2017–JAN. 2018 Implementation, Integration & Beta-testing

OCTOBER 2017 Complete Activities & Multi-Part Activities

FEBRUARY 2018 Launch new system!

AYM Adventurous Young Mazamas offer activities for those in their 20s and 30s and anyone young at heart Check our website, tinyurl.com/ maz-aymactivities, and Meetup page, meetup.com/Adventurous-YoungMazamas, frequently for the most up-to-date schedule. AYM committee meetings are the fourth Monday of each month from 6:30-8:30 p.m. at the MMC. AYM’s April events showcase the best of the Eastern Gorge. Contact leaders for more information and to RSVP, and be sure to check our website and Meetup page for any other additions to our schedule! All hikes are $2 member/$3 nonmember.

LYLE CHERRY TRAIL HIKE AND PICNIC— APRIL 2, 7:15 A.M. Join us for an upland hike to Lyle Cherry Orchard Trail, a private holding generously open to us by the Columbia Gorge Land Trust. Expect early wildflowers, gnarled scrub oak, mule deer and arid windswept views of the eastern gorge. If weather is sunny, we’ll picnic in the orchard at the top. 5 miles, 1,500 ft. Drive: 70 miles round-trip. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, NW corner. Capped at eight hikers.

RSVP with leader. Leaders: Toby Creelan, toby@creelan.com, and Reena Clements, reenac@bu.edu.

BOARD GAME NIGHT—APRIL 5, SEE MEETUP FOR DETAILS Everyone welcome—a casual time with fantastic people.

COTTONWOOD CANYON HIKE—APRIL 9, 7:45 A.M. Join AYM to discover one of Oregon’s newest state parks, Cottonwood Canyon.

The scenery here is reminiscent of both the Deschutes River area and the rock formations around the John Day Fossil Beds, making it a “best of both worlds” and a real treat to explore! We will hike the Pinnacles Trail, a flat, easy stroll along the north side of the John Day River. Hike: 8.6 miles, Drive: 240 miles round-trip. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, NW corner.

Leader: Reena Clements, reenac@bu.edu.

CRITERION RANCH AND WHITE RIVER FALLS HIKE—APRIL 15, 7:15 A.M. Looking for adventure? Join us for a trip to seldom-visited Criterion canyon, an arid tract of BLM land just south of Maupin.

We’ll follow old jeep roads to an overlook of the Deschutes and desolate Mutton Mountains. Expect flowers, views, some sunshine, and rattlesnake or wild turkey.

On the way back we’ll make two stops: one to nearby White River Falls, one of the best waterfalls in Oregon, and a refreshment stop in either The Dalles or Hood River.

RSVP with leader. Capped at eight hikers.

Hike: 11 miles, 400 feet. Drive: 260 (all of it highway, though). Meet at Gateway Transit Center NW corner. Leaders: Toby Creelan, Toby@creelan.com, and Mike Kacmar, mikekacmar@yahoo.com.

MONTHLY PUB NIGHT—APRIL 17, SEE MEETUP FOR DETAILS Everyone welcome—a fun social introduction to the group.

CATHERINE CREEK AND WELDON WAGON ROAD PHOTOGRAPHY HIKE— APRIL 29, 8 A.M. Looking to fully take in the spring with some photography? Join AYM for a duo of outstanding Gorge wildflower hikes. We'll start at the extremely popular Catherine Creek Trailhead and hike a short loop through one of the most beautiful canyons in the east Gorge. After we finish our short hike we'll get back in the car and drive some 20 miles away to the Weldon Wagon Road Trailhead for another wildflower extravaganza. Plan on a slow pace for both hikes in order to allow us to take lots of pictures. You don't need to bring a camera but we will be stopping for photos, and to talk wildflowers. Plan on a beverage stop in White Salmon after the hikes.

Hikes: 9 miles, 1,600 feet EG. Drive: 152 miles round-trip. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, SE Corner. Leader: Matt Reeder, mareede@gmail.com.

Mazama Climb Mornings AYM is happy to announce that we will be hosting climb mornings over the next few months in preparation for this year's climbing season. We are eager to utilize both Portland Rock Gym and Planet Granite on both weekend and weekday mornings to avoid the massive, after work crowds. Please keep an eye out for the next event. We plan to host this twice per month. Announcements will be posted on the Mazamas "Climb Morning" page as well as our Facebook and Meetup pages. This event is free and open to members and non-members. We kindly ask that you can pass the belay certification to participate with us. Climb On! Host: Mike Kacmar, mikekacmar@ yahoo.com. Mazama Climb Mornings Return!

APRIL 2017 41

Strategic Plan Update: April 2017 The Mazamas is in its 3rd year of its current 3-year plan. We have made significant progress on the goals laid out in that plan.

nd aCORE p x E

WE ARE I NVE ST I

OPERATIONS

MORE Climbs & Activities ONLINE Profiles & Registration NEW Programs & Much More!

Mo

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EXPAND

PROGRAMS

ance Enh BUSINESS

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These three objectives contained a variety of goals and strategies. There are currently nine strategic projects in motion to achieve these objectives. This page provides you with an update on the status of these nine projects. For more details, go to mazamas.org.

Core Programs O

O

O

n

n

n

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ack Tr

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Reinvent leadership development systems and structures.

Restore management of historical collections with a focus on sharing stories.

Create a mission-based policy agenda and lead with outreach and advocacy.

Progress: Program staff began to interact with staff from the Mountaineers, Colorado Mountain Club, and American Alpine Club to work on process for developing volunteer leader standards in Mountain Walking and Trekking.

Progress: Inventory and bar coding of library circulation collection nearing completion, revisions and updating of Library and Historical Collections policies and procedures manual out for review, Records Management retention schedules under development, and planning underway for July Anniversary celebration and fundraiser.

Progress: Two bills are in Salem currently and are being considered by the Oregon Legislature, both of which Mazamas were instrumental in drafting. One creates an Outdoor Recreation Day in Oregon, and the other creates a state leadership to represent responsible recreation and related coordination in Oregon.

Next Action: Present the leadership development action plan to Executive Board at the April meeting.

42 MAZAMAS

Next Action: Phased roll out of the library's new online catalog and circulation system slated to begin in April, recruiting talent and developing a program for July event.

Next Action: Continue to support passage of HB3350 to create a state leadership position for outdoor recreation in Oregon, and continue exploring the feasibility of creating a political advocacy coalition to bring together the voices of responsible outdoor recreation, conservation, and the outdoor industry in Oregon.

ENHANCE

Business Operations

O

O

Delayed

O

n

n

n

ack Tr

ack Tr

ack Tr

Reinvent our IT systems.

Create a culture of giving and fundraise for priority projects.

Renovate our facilities to be welcome, functional, and sustainable.

Strengthen the organizational structure and culture of the Mazamas.

Progress: The CRM & IT Tools phase is 95% complete, and the Website & User Profiles Phase is underway. New website site map is complete and the first round of wireframes has been reviewed.

Progress: The 2016 annual campaign was a strong success, with over 500 individuals contributing to support Mazamas programs, compared to 250 the year before. The annual report is in process and will be delivered to members later this spring.

Progress: Dangermond Keane Architecture has completed design work on Mazama Lodge and is sourcing bids to utilize the Gray Family Foundation matching grant to improve Mazama Lodge for programs and youth outreach still this summer.

Next Action: With annual philanthropic revenues to the Mazamas exceeding $400,000 annually, we are discussing the feasibility of hiring a Development Director at the Mazamas to manage fundraising into the future.

Next Action: Long range architectural planning and concept development for improvements to the MMC are next on the list for work by Dangermond Keane Architecture and will be complete in 2017.

Progress: We have recently hired Claire Nelson as our Youth and Outreach Programs manager to work on youth programs such as the Mazama Mountain Science School, Adventure Wild, and to collaborate and support other youth outreach programming and the families committee. In addition, Claire is responsible to spearhead Mazamas strategy going forward in the areas of diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) for Mazama programs.

Next Action: Migrate data, including contact, activities, places, leaders, participant data into the new system.

Create mood boards to inform the visual design of the new website.

EXPLORE

Next Action: Engage the board in DEI discussions and trainings as a part of the strategic planning process.

New Opportunities

Delayed O

Progress: The Mazamas Foundation Board of Directors voted unanimously to exercise the purchase option for the property in May of 2017.

The application for the conditional use permit process is being finalized and will be submitted next month.

Next Action: Obtain the Conditional Use Permit and final schematic design by the end of June 2017 prior to making a decision to proceed with any development of the property.

Progress: Partnered with Centennial School District (SD), 3 schools in Portland Public Schools (PPS) and one in Parkrose SD for a total of 11 Mazama Mountain Science School (MMSS) sessions with more than 600 4th and 5th graders in attendance.

Centennial helped fundraise the $25,000 not covered by the Mazamas Foundation and the Gray Family Foundation to cover costs. PPS and Parkrose paid the incredible price of $160 per student which made MMSS accessible and desirable for those schools.

ack Tr

Develop a 3-phase development and business operations plan for Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock State Park.

n

Develop youth outreach programs and related events.

Next Action: Anticipated cost next year is $260/student to be covered by Measure 99 funding. Claire Nelson, applied to be on Advisory Committee to determine Measure 99 budget allocation and Outdoor School funding. Advisory Committee members announced early April. Claire and Ann Griffin are gathering feedback from key partners (Multnomah Education Service District, Centennial) to gauge participation for MMSS 2018.

Claire is exploring potential and capacity for program growth.

APRIL 2017 43

MAZAMA FAMILIES Choose Your Own Adventure with Mazama Families Adventure Trips Looking for an opportunity to learn new skills, build friendships, and live a healthier lifestyle with your family? Then Adventure Trips are for you! The Mazama Families Committee is looking to transition from hike leader initiated hikes to a new concept of self-led Adventure Trips. Participants will create their own prospectus with skill building exercises and each trip will offer a balance of conditioning, navigation, nutrition, and self-sufficiency components. Adventure Trips will give participants a chance to learn, refine, and demonstrate new skills.

While the committee is building the Adventure Trip program, we have a suggested adventure for you to try with your family!

First, pick a kid-friendly hike. A quick internet search will provide you with plenty of options.

Next, pack your backpacking stove and put together some warm drink mixes. You can have your kids help you put them together or you can do it stealthily and pull them out as a surprise during the hike. If another family joins you for the hike, have them pack another stove and

then have a contest between the stoves.

Which one makes a better hot cocoa?

Which one boils water the quickest?

After the trip have a discussion with your kids. Ask each person to describe something new they learned or something they would do differently next time. Have each participant discuss the “high” of the trip for them and the “low” of the trip. Finally, discuss potential dates for the next adventure!

Photo: Ken Etze

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CLASSICS For members with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace If you wish to contact the Classics, you can email classics@mazamas.org or call Chair Rose Marie Gilbert at 503-762-2357.

LEADING EVENTS Those wanting to lead need to reply to Rose Marie or classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.

CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our new transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@ comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

CATHERINE CREEK WALK—APRIL 17, 10 A.M. Wildflowers, waterfalls ,and gorge views.

We'll go one to two miles, depending on the group or the weather. Bring a sack lunch or we can lunch in Hood River.

Meet at the MMC and contact leader Flora Huber for carpooling and directions: flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING—APRIL 24, 11 A.M.–2:30 P.M. Join us for this month’s Classics meeting at the MMC. After this month, Classics meetings will go to every-other month, with the next meeting on the fourth Monday of June.

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ED JOHANN GIVES FIRST-HAND ACCOUNT OF PEARL HARBOR—APRIL 26, 12 P.M. Mazama Ed Johann will give us a firsthand account of the Pearl Harbor attack on December 7, 1941. We have a private room reserved at Izzy's Restaurant at Gateway Center NE 102nd and Halsey. You will not be disappointed. The all-you-can-eat lunch is $8.49 plus drinks and tip.

SAVE THE DATE: DICK AND JANE’S "FOURTH OF JULY" POTLUCK PICNIC— JULY 1 Don’t miss this year’s potluck picnic at the home of Dick and Jane Miller in Beaverton. Mark your calendars now!

Details and driving directions will be in the June Bulletin.

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APRIL 2017 45

OUTINGS ADVENTURE TRAVEL FOREIGN & DOMESTIC CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING JULY 9–24

YELLOWSTONE OUTING JULY 30–AUG. 5

Intermediate Climbing School graduates, Advanced School graduates, or equivalent experience required. Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/ or WI2+. Outing cost will be $2,250 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round-trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains, and cable cars are included).

Food cost, hut fees, and the Midi-Hellbronner gondola not included. For full details go to the website. Contact leader, Lee Davis, lee@ mazamas.org for more information.

The Mazamas will be Bailey Range Traverse hiking in America’s oldest national park in the summer of 2017. Richard BAILEY RANGE TRAVERSE Getgen and Robert Smith are your leaders.

AUGUST 13–19 We will day-hike Monday–Friday. There will be two hikes offered each day, a combination The Bailey Range traverse in the Olympic of A- and B-level hikes in the national park.

National Park is a high and remote crossOur base camp will be in the southeast country trek of unique and matchless section of Yellowstone National Park. beauty. It is one of the finest high traverses in Participants will make their own reservations Washington. at the resort which offers cabins, tent sites, The Bailey Range is a physically and and RV sites. The cost of the outing is $175 mentally demanding trip. The party must be for members and $245 for nonmembers. comfortable with rock, snow, and occasional We will have a pre-outing meeting next ice travel, display competent route-finding, spring to meet the group members, organize and carrying a full pack. The path is largely carpools, and present information. Contact off trail. There are steep sections with Richard at teambears@frontier.com to exposure on the Catwalk near Cat Peak, and register. on sections of narrow way trails. Crampons and ice axes may be needed for the Elwha Snow Finger.

OREGON COAST TRAIL HIKING Outing cost $290–210 for 4 to 6 participants.

AUG. 9–16 A $100 deposit is required, with sign-up by From Humbug Mountain State Park, we June 15, 2017. Contact outing leader Bob will hike approximately 70 miles of the Breivogel (breivog@teleport.com) or assistant Oregon Coast Trail south from Bandon to the leader Kate Evans (kateevans97@gmail.com) California border. We will use car shuttles to for more information or to apply. connect the segments of the trail. Most of the hiking will be on the beach interspersed with TRINITY ALPS HIGH ROUTE TREK trails through the headlands. This is a diverse SEPT. 16–22 area with spectacular scenery.

Participants are responsible for making Join us as we hike Northern California's their own transportation, lodging/camping Trinity Alps High Route, a ~40 mile arrangements, and meals; and can come for alpine trek which circumnavigates the fewer than 8 days if they wish. Outing cost Canyon Creek drainage and includes the will range from $105–$240 depending on the summits of up to 6 named peaks in the number of participants and member status. A Trinity Alps Wilderness. The Trinity Alps $150 deposit is required, with sign-up by July are a spectacular and rugged collection 15. (Participants should make reservations of mountains and ridges in the Klamath ASAP if they are planning to stay at Humbug Mountains of Northern California. The Mountain State Park.) high route encompasses largely off trail Outing leader is Joe Whittington hiking and is mostly above the tree. All (joewhittington@gmail.com), 503-297-6344; peaks should be 3rd class or less and will Assistant Leader: TBD.

MT. THIELSEN TO DIAMOND PEAK PCT BACKPACK JULY 21–28 Backpack the spectacular Pacific Crest Trail from Mt. Thielsen to Diamond Peak.

We begin with a Mt. Thielsen climb, then continue on the Pacific Crest Trail to our climb of Diamond Peak. Lakes, forest, and countless scenic views await you on this comfortably paced trip. We’ll take seven days to cover the 57 miles of trail and climb approaches. Participants should be able to carry a backpack with four days of food and camping gear, and have class “A” climbing skills.

Outing cost of $142 to $345 for a group size of three to five, including leaders. Cost includes mileage to and from our entry and exit points, plus campground and outing fees.

Participants are responsible for their meals and equipment. A trip overview and gear assessment and recommendation session will be held prior to departure.

A $150 deposit is due June 20. Outing leader is Joe Whittington (joewhittington@gmail. com) 503-297-6344. Assistant Leader: TBD

Want to go on an Outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the Outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub.org. As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.

46 MAZAMAS

not require any technical gear. The 6–8 participants will need to be in good physical condition and have experience in at least one 50 mile (or greater) trek. We will be traveling light and fast, up to 10 miles per day with daily elevation gains varying from near 0 to almost 5,000 ft. The terrain will be challenging with rocks, brush and scree. The cost of the outing is $258–$305 (depending on the number of participants) and covers all fees and lodging costs. We will be carpooling to the trailhead and staying in a hotel the night before and after the trek. A $100 deposit will be required upon acceptance.

Contact leader Gary Bishop, gbish90@hotmail.com, or assistant Brooke Weeber, bweeber@gmail.com, for more information.

HIKING IN THE TRINITY ALPS OCT. 1–8

Trinity Alps High Route Trek

Looking for WILDerness? Then join us for a 7-day outing in the remote Trinity Alps of Northern California. Daily B- or C-level hikes will explore granite peaks, glacier-carved canyons, lush meadows and sparkling mountain lakes. We can expect warm temperatures and uncrowded trails.

We will be staying at the Ripple Creek cabins, each of which is completely furnished and unique. Outing cost, depending on 6–10 participants (including leaders) ranges from $548–$412 for members and $618–$482 for nonmembers inclusive of lodging and fees. Each OFF THE BEATEN PATH. Very high, remote, scenic trekking in participant is responsible for his/her food and travel to and from the Peru. TWO treks offered this year: 11 days, from the Bosque de cabins—a round trip of approximately 780 miles. Application and a Piedras to near the Quelcaya icecap, to Pacchanta using part deposit of $200 is required by July 1; contact leader Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com or assistant leader Sherry Bourdin of our route from 2016, much at 16,000 feet plus; and 8 days, sbourdin@reig.com for more information or to apply. Food and travel from Chua Chua to Ccoylloriti and Tinqui, not quite as high. to and from the cabins—a round trip of approximately 780 miles.

October 2017. Contact climb leader Ellen Gradison: A deposit of $200 is required by July 1, which is the deadline for ellengradison@gmail.com for more info. signing up.

PERU TREKKING

APRIL 2017 47

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK A1.5 April 1 (Sat.) VernoniaBanks Linear Trail Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Manning TH to Buxton trestle. Paved trail, so mud will not be an issue. 6.0 mi., 100 ft., Drive 20, Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK B2 April 1 (Sat.) Deschutes River Trail Sherry Bourdin 503-3142911. This is a great early spring hike as you'll be enjoying sunshine and almost a guarantee of no rain. You'll be following the Deschutes River through dry, desert like terrain. The hike offers a combination of trail and an old road winding through a canyon with steep basalt cliffs and green, treeless slopes. There will be spring flowers, probable numerous bird sightings, and stunning views of the river. Lunch will be enjoyed at an abandoned boxcar where we'll turn around and head back. Wear your long pants as the trail is famous for ticks. You’ll want to add this to your list of annual spring hikes. 11.5 mi., 300 ft., Drive 184, Gateway 7 a.m.

HK B2.5 April 2 (Sun.) Coyote Wall Loop Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940.

Hike up the Syncline to expansive gorge views. Descend through the Labyrinth past waterfalls.

There should be a fair number of wildflowers. 8.2 mi., 1950 ft., Drive 126, TH, Gateway 8:30 a.m. (WF,GH) HK C2 April 2 (Sun.) Oswald West Park—Smuggler’s Cove to Neahkahnie Mt. Joe Kellett fekjpk24@gmail.com. This is a terrific hike along the Oregon coast with spectacular ocean views from high rocky points, beach trails, and trails through great old growth forest with Sitka spruce and hemlock. Depending on the number of cars we will ether arrange a shuttle and depart from just north of Cape Falcon and go all the way to Neahkahnie Mountain or if we are unable to do a car shuttle we will park at the lot for Short Sands Beach and do an out and back around Smuggler’s cove and to Neahkahnie Mountain. 12 mi., 1,800 ft., Drive 166, Sunset Transit Center—NE Corner, Hwy 26/217 7:30 a.m. MU

48 MAZAMAS

SR A2.5 April 5 (Wed.) Mt. Tabor Street Ramble from Mazama Mountaineering Ctr. Meg Linza.

Walk at a brisk pace (2.5 –3 m.p.h.) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland to Mt. Tabor Park—we may even catch a glimpse of a heritage tree. In the park, we will take alternating trails to the top of the 280 stairs at the NE corner of the park. From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs, then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. 2 hours (please arrive early to sign in) 5 mi., 500 ft., Drive 0, Mazamas Mountaineering Center 503-2272345 6 p.m.

HK B2 April 5 (Wed.) Dog Mountain Loop Lesley Langan 503-704-8658 lesley@yahoo.com.

Moderately challenging conditioning hike to get in shape for spring.

Depending on the trail conditions, we'll most likely hike up the most difficult route and down the gentler easier trail. It's too early in the season for wildflowers, but there should be some breathtaking views of the Columbia Gorge at the summit. 6.3 mi., 2,900 ft., Drive 98 mi., TH, MMC 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 April 7 (Fri.) Catherine Creek to Coyote Wall Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Wild flowers should be starting to show up on this rambling east side hike.

Expansive views of the gorge and Mt Hood, Poison Oak should still be fairly dormant. Cameras and Poles recommended. 8.2 mi., 1,750 ft., Drive 140, MMC 8 a.m. (GH)MU HK A2 April 8 (Sat.) Herman Creek Pinnacles Dan Smith 971331-4823. Hike from parking lot under the Bridge of Gods. We will hike to Herman Creek Pinnacles then a little ways to small water fall.

Then back to Dry Creek Falls 60 ft. tall for lunch. 6 mi., 950 ft., Drive 78, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,GH) HK B1.5 April 8 (Sat.) Bayocean Spit Richard Getgen teambears@ frontier.com. Loop hike with an estuary on one side and an ocean beach on the other. 8.1 mi., 100 ft., Drive 130, Target/185th 8 a.m.

WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change.

Visit tinyurl.com/maz-hikesched for updates!

WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500– 1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

NEW! EASTSIDE STREET RAMBLES: STARTS APRIL 5!

Wednesdays throughout the spring and summer, starting April 12.

Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3 m.p.h.) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland to Mt. Tabor Park—we may even catch a glimpse of a heritage tree. In the park, we will take alternating trails to the top of the 280 stairs at the NE corner of the park.

From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs, then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. 2 hours (please arrive early to sign in) 5 mi., 500 ft., Drive 0, Mazamas Mountaineering Center 503-227-2345 6 p.m.

MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: mazamas.org/activities-events.

NS April 8 (Sat.) Bonney Butte Wayne Lincoln 503-758-0421. Cross country ski from Bennet Pass and across the Terrible Traverse and on to Bonney Butte. This trip is not for the faint hearted as the Terrible Traverse can be intimidating. Be prepared for inclement weather and trail making. 11 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive 125, SnoPark, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2.5 April 9 (Sun.) Table Mountain Loop Bob Breivogel 503292-2940. Up the west ridge, down though the boulder field. Moderate speed but lots of elevation gain.

Possible snow patches higher up— gaiters and trekking poles advised. $5 Parking fee. 10 mi., 3,650 ft., Drive 84, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR,GH) HK B2 April 10 (Mon.) Tarbell to Hidden Falls Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@ gmail.com. Follow the trail blazed

by George Tarbell, SW Washington pioneer, hermit, farmer and miner.

We will travel through areas that been reforested since the 1902 Yacolt burn and arrive at the relatively unknown Hidden Falls in time for lunch. 10 mi., 1,100 ft., Drive 65, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (WF)MU HK B2 April 12 (Wed.) Kings Mountain Tony Spiering 503-68081112. Nice woodsy hike with trees and lots of ferns plus a great view at the top. Dress for the weather. 5.4 mi., 2,780 ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR)

HK A1.5 April 15 (Sat.) Devils Rest from Larch Mountain Rd Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Devils Rest from an unusual direction. Early flowers and some nice views. 5 mi., 600 ft., Drive 50, Gateway 8:30 a.m.

(WF,GH)MU HK B2.5 April 15 (Sat.) Hamilton Mt. Loop Kate Evans 503-635-6540.

Hike past waterfalls and up a steep trail to the summit, then cross a high ridge, descend to a saddle, and return on an old road to the ascent trail. Discovery Pass required. 7.6 mi., 2,100 ft., Drive 88, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,AR,GH)MU HK B2 April 16 (Sun.) Tillamook Head (Seaside-Ecola) Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. Hike from Seaside to Indian Beach and back along the coastal cliffs. Halfway between we will pass Clark's point of view at Tillamook Head. Trail may be muddy, consider gaiters. 8.5 mi., 1,600 ft., Drive 125, TH, Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK B2 April 17 (Mon.) Nesmith Trail to Corky's Corner Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Steep warmer-upper. We will hike up the Nesmith trail to the ridge Junction.

Snow can linger in this area late into the season so bring your traction and poles. 6 mi., 2,600 ft., Drive 60, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (GH)

HK A1.5 April 17 (Mon.) Catherine Creek Flora Huber 503-658-5710.

This classic hike is a great midApril treat with some wildflowers, waterfalls, and gorge views. 3.4 mi., 600 ft., Drive 126, TH, MMC 8:30 a.m.

(WF,GH)MU HK A1 April 19 (Wed.) Cougar Trails Ray Sheldon rbshldn@ pacifier.com or 360-991-8489. We will hike the various trails in the WSU Vancouver Campus, some asphalt, some natural. There can be great views of St. Helens, Silver Star, and Hood. We will stop for lunch at their cafe where you can order off the menu or eat what you've brought. 3 mi., 400 ft., Drive 30, Salmon Creek Park & Ride 8 a.m.

HK B2 April 19 (Wed.) Siouxon Creek (to Wildcat Falls) Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Canyon walk along a beautiful stream, With lush old growth trees and solitude.

10.2 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive 70, MMC 8 a.m. (WF) HK A2 April 21 (Fri.) Wind Mountain David Gast pdg17838@ gmail.com. Join us for this lesser known hike to the top of wind Mountain just past Stevenson in the gorge. You will probably remember seeing Wind Mountain if have spent much time in the gorge. Dress in layers and be ready for wind. 2.5 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive 88, Landing Transit Center in Vancouver 9 a.m. (GH)MU HK A1.5 April 22 (Sat.) Herman Creek Pinnacles Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Great spring hike with cigar-shaped pinnacles as our destination and gorge views, waterfalls, and wildflowers along the way. 6 mi., 950 ft., Drive 78, Gateway 8:30 a.m. (WF,GH)MU HK A1.5 April 22 (Sat.) Memaloose Hills Loop Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Loop hike includes some on-trail and some off-trail. Balsamroot, lupine and paintbrush amongst the varieties of wildflowers. No sign-up list, just show-up. 6.0 mi., 600 ft., Drive 140, Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 April 22 (Sat.) Devils Rest via Wahkeena Falls David Nelson 503-657-4058. We will head up Wahkeena Falls trail to Devils Rest, passing several waterfalls on the way. Many switchbacks, some steep sections, rocky and possible slippery footing as we go. Once we reach Devils Rest will have lunch and then will head down loop trail (Foxglove) where we will join the Angels Rest trail and work our way back to the cars passing by Wahkeena Springs.

Good work out and short drive from Portland. 7.3 mi., 2,550 ft., Drive 45, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (WF,GH)

HK A1.5 April 23 (Sun.) Ape Cave Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail. com. Traverse the iconic lava tube on the south side of Mt St Helens.

We'll enter the lower cave and exit the upper cave, taking the trail back to our vehicles. There is one crux move midway through the cave, an eight-foot ascent with limited holds; we'll help each other there. No food is permitted in the cave, so we'll snack before/after. Strong lights and waterproof gear REQUIRED. RSVP

by Sat. April 22. 4.7 mi., 640 ft., Drive 135, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2 April 23 (Sun.) Hardy Ridge Larry Solomon muensterhump@ hotmail.com. Great loop trail climbing along the ridge above Hardy Creek to Phlox Point where we lunch. Discover pass for drivers.

8.4 mi., 2,300 ft., Drive 93, TH, Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 April 26 (Wed.) Forest Park—BPA/all fire lanes Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail. com. Hike the BPA road from Skyline down to Hwy 30 then back up to hike fire lanes 13, 12, and 15 back up to Skyline. Then back down to BPA and up to Skyline and the cars. Enjoy views of Adams, Rainier and St. Helens along the way. 8.36 mi., 2,200 ft., Drive 30, MMC 9 a.m.

HK A1.5 April 29 (Sat.) Dry Creek Falls Jim Selby 828-508-5094. In addition to seeing a superb falls we will see lots of wild-flowers on this portion of the Pacific Crest Trail. We will go at a leisurely pace, enjoying some glimpses of the Gorge, and plan to be back at Gateway around 2:30 p.m. 5.4 mi., 710 ft., Drive 78, TH, Gateway 9 a.m. (WF,GH)MU

HK A1.5 April 30 (Sun.) Lyle Cherry Orchard Brett Nair 503847-9550. A lot has happened in the world since these trees were planted.

Hidden away on this hill, the world has pretty much passed them by.

Plan on spending a little time with the hidden gems. They're old and frail, but they're not quite done yet.

The lower portion of the Lyle Cherry Orchard Trail has recently been completely rebuilt. The new trail starts from the same trailhead, but it starts at the far-east edge of the little valley, right against the rocks 6.5 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 140, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2 April 30 (Sun.) Mosier Tunnels Tom Eggers 503-334-6356.

Wonderful views from a paved path! This paved path is only open to bicycles and hikers and is part of the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail. It offers some spectacular viewpoints down to the Columbia River. We'll go through two tunnels carved into the basalt hillside, and walk out to some dramatic overlooks. Maximum grade is 5 percent, so while this hike will be somewhat long but not very strenuous. Out and back route. Plan and dress appropriately for weather conditions for what is essentially an urban hike in a Gorge setting. Each vehicle will need to pay $5 or display an Oregon State Park day use pass at the trailhead. 9.4 mi., 960 ft., Drive 120, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,GH)MU

HK A1.5 April 29 (Sat.) Heritage Tree #1, Ladd's Addition Tom Guyot tgguyot@gmail.com. This moderately paced urban hike will focus on the Heritage Trees in the Ladd's Addition neighborhood. We will stop and talk about the trees of 11 species protected by the city.

Also, we will see another uniquely Portland feature; small cast bronze sculptures along Division Street.

This hike is dog friendly. Park on the streets leading to the traffic circle at the center of Ladd's Addition and meet in front of the Palio Dessert and Espresso House, 1996 SE Ladd Ave. Please arrive 10 minutes early to sign in so we can leave on time. 4 mi., 150 ft., Drive 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 April 29 (Sat.) Silver Falls State Park—Perimeter Loop Larry Solomon muensterhump@ hotmail.com. Nice alternative to the more popular waterfalls trails.

Hike in solitude through lovely forests on quaint wooden bridges over babbling creeks. $5.00 fee per vehicle. 10.3 mi., 1,750 ft., Drive 134, Gateway 8 a.m.

'Tis the season for wildflowers!

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Awards.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Awards.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft– Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

APRIL 2017 49

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL This meeting summary by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager; full meeting minutes are always available online.

President Steve Hooker called the March Mazama Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 3 p.m., on Tuesday, March 21.

No members chose to speak at the first member comment period. Motion carried to adopt the March meeting agenda and the minutes from the February meeting and Executive Council session. Secretary John Rettig reported that the membership now stands at 3,435, marking a net gain of 42 members over this time last year. Executive Director Lee Davis provided the treasurer’s report. He reported that at the end of January total revenue is $442,228 and total operating expense are $334,238. The current total assets are $1,102,110. Revenue is 2 percent above budget and expenditures are 2 percent below budget.

In his Executive Director’s report, Lee mentioned that Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is currently underway and that the last lecture is April 28. The spring Executive Council Retreat is coming up May 7, followed later that week by the new Volunteer Appreciation Event on May 11. In the facilities updates, Lee noted that work on the solar panel install at the MMC is underway. In external reporting, he talked about the current status of the Mazamas involvement in the effort to create an Outdoor Recreation Day in Oregon. He touched on the Oregon Conservation and Recreation Fund concept currently in development. To that end, Lee asked the council for specific help on how to move forward in that effort. The council responded by approving Lee’s’ request to raise funds to retain a contractor to pursue the project further. Lee ended his Director’s Report by asked for approval of a $687 cost overrun on the architectural fees as part of the Smith Rock Ranch project. Marty Hanson moved to approve the extra funds and the motion passed unanimously.

Craig Martin, representing the Mazama Families Committee, then gave an update 50 MAZAMAS

Upcoming Board Meeting Dates: April 18, May 16; All meetings begin at 3 p.m. and are open to all members.

There is a public comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by Executive Council for publication.

on current activities. Mr. Martin noted some significant milestones: the creation of student handbooks for the Families Mountaineering 101, Top Rope Leader, and Sport Leader programs. Other topics addressed included the youth leadership program currently in development and a goal to have committee members more involved in conservation and stewardship activities. Craig ended his report by noting that the committee has been able to build an active community and that the committee would like to expand Mazama Family climbs, but needs help from climb leaders.

Justin Rotherham, Education & Activities Program Manager, then gave a brief update on BCEP. He noted that the first week of classes went off without a hitch, but there were some facility use issues with the second class. The council offered some advice on how to proceed and assured him that he has their full support. In other updates, Justin reported that the Volunteer Orientation project is developing and planning has started for reorganizing the 2018 BCEP program.

President Steve Hooker give an update on the Board Roles and Responsibilities document. He began by thanking the members who spoke at the February meeting. He stated that he had worked with Lee to revise the language in the document and to respond to the feedback presented in February. Motion carried to adopt the Roles and Responsibilities document as amended. Acknowledging that the dues have not increased in 10 years, President Hooker purposed that the Membership Dues increase ( from $60 to $72 for regular members) from last October be put back on the ballot for this year's election. He feels that the proposal has a better chance of passing this year, noting that it failed in October by only one vote. Motion carried to add the increase to the upcoming ballot.

Mr. Hooker wrapped up old business by asking for input on some housekeeping issues surrounding the 3 p.m. start time and the policy limiting other committees from meeting at the same time as the

Council.

In Advocacy news, Lee noted that he would be traveling to Washington D.C. to meet with members of Congress on a variety of issues. He will be returning to testify in Salem on April 3 in support of several bills in front of the Oregon Legislature.

Sarah Bradham was on hand to give an update on the IT Project. The CRM & IT Tool phase are nearing completion, and final sign off should come within the next few weeks. The project is now in the User Experience Phase, and a redesign of the Mazamas website is underway. The reorganization will focus on what the organization does rather than how it is structured. The project is on track for the February 2018 launch date, in time for the spring climbing season and BCEP 2018 registration.

Sarah next addressed the Marketing Study and asked that Council approve the bid from MDC Research. MDC did the 2011 membership survey and are familiar with the organization. A brief discussion followed about the rationale for conducting the survey now given staff workloads. The council reaffirmed their desire to undertake the study to understand the desires of the membership and our broader community in the development of our next 3-year strategic plan. The MDC bid was approved unanimously. Sarah ended her remarks by noting the date for the Volunteer Recognition Event, May 11 and confirmed the 5th annual Portland Alpine Festival dates are November 14-18.

The public part of the meeting ended with Lee giving a brief presentation on budget projections three years out. If current fundraising and revenue continue on track, by next fiscal year, the Mazamas will no longer need the Mazamas Foundation sustaining grant. By freeing the foundation from supporting operations, it will be better situated to support request for capital improvement and research and development projects. President Hooker commended Lee on his multi-year effort to free the organization from annual operating

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS

Every Wednesday at 7 p.m., mid-Oct. through mid-April at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance.

BICYCLING THE LAST FRONTIER—APRIL 5 Tim Bailey and John Greengo bicycled across Alaska from bottom to top, traveling more than 1,400 miles over some of the most isolated roads on the continent. Their adventure began at Homer on the Kenai Peninsula, and ended on the edge of the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay, the most northerly point accessible by road. Along the way, they experienced Alaska in all of its rugged glory: breathtaking scenery, expansive wilderness, fascinating wildlife, challenging roads and severe weather. Join Tim Bailey as he shares a multi-media presentation about his 33-day adventure.

NEW HIKES IN SOUTHERN OREGON—APRIL 12 Bill Sullivan, Oregon's hiking guru takes us on a slide show tour of new trails he discovered while researching the new fourth edition of his book, 100 Hikes/Travel Guide: Southern Oregon & Northern California. We'll find hidden lakes in the Trinity Alps, relocated trails at Crater Lake, and wildflower meadows in the Siskiyous. As always, Sullivan spices his talk with notes on the geology, wildlife, and history.

Sullivan is the author of 18 books about Oregon, including two books on Oregon history and five novels. New in 2016 is a murder mystery about the Rajneeshees, The Case of the Reborn Bhagwan. His journal of a 1,000 mile hike across Oregon, Listening for Coyote, was chosen by the Oregon Cultural Heritage Commission as one of Oregon’s “100 Books.” He also writes an outdoor column for the Eugene Register-Guard and the Salem StatesmanJournal. For more information, see oregonhiking.com.

Council, continued from previous page

dependence on the Foundation.

Two members were present for the second member comment period. Traci Weitzman expressed support for the Smith Rock Ranch project. She noted that among her cohort of friends, there is great excitement about a Mazama presence at Smith Rock. Bertie August, from the Nominating Committee, was on hand to thank the council for addressing the committee’s concerns about the Roles and Responsibilities document.

When asked if she would support the current wording as adopted, she said that speaking for herself, and not the committee as a whole, she could support it as written.

The council then adjourned into Executive Session. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, April 18, at 3 p.m.

Where's the Annual?

Your Annual is moving to August!

You'll be treated to the same great stories, reports from the previous year, a history of the last year of events, in addition to the most recent award winners from the volunteer recognition event in May. Expect to see the Annual in your mailbox in early to midAugust.

APRIL 2017 51

Saying Goodbye to a Legend

by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager

T

he climbing community lost a guiding light when Royal Robbins passed away on March 15 at the age of 82. Mr. Robbins’ accomplishments as a rock climber, author, teacher, entrepreneur, environmentalist, and adventurer are legendary.

Early in the 1960s, he led the way for generations of climbers by advocating for a minimal use of bolts on climbs. In 1967—five years before the clean climbing movement of 1972—he imported and introduced the British idea of using nuts over pitons. This not only minimized the impact on rock faces, but opened climbers' minds to using all of the rock's natural features.

Considered one of the most influential climbers of the 20th century, Robbins mastered record-breaking ascents around the world. In the 1950s and 1960s, his legendary ascents on El Capitan made him world renowned and put Yosemite on the map as the climbing capital of America. He was not content to limit his climbing to the sunny confines of Southern California and Yosemite. He carried the Yosemite philosophy of ground-up non-siege climbing to the Alpine world with such climbs as the 1962 climb of the American Direct on the Aiguille du Dru in Chamonix, the 1963 Robbins Route on Mount Proboscis in the Logan Mountains of NWT, Canada, and 1969 ascents in the Kichatna Spires in Alaska.

Robbins wrote two pioneering books on climbing, Basic Rockcraft and Advanced Rockcraft. These two practical guides covered all the fundamentals of technical rock climbing. Looking more like a college professor, with his crew cut and horn-rimmed glasses, Robbins became rock climbing's conscience. His writing reflected his no-nonsense approach to climbing that embraced holistic climbing and respect of the natural environment while disdaining the conventional conquering of mountains with pitons and bolts.

In 1957 Robbins, along with Jerry Galwas and Mike Sherrick, made the first ascent of the northwest face of Half Dome. Three years later, in 1960, he and a partner climbed the Nose of El Capitan as a continuous climb. His first ascent of the Salathe route of El Capitan made with Tom Frost and Chuck Pratt was his proudest accomplishment.

Robbin's efforts and those of his contemporaries helped usher in the golden age of climbing in the Yosemite Valley.

At the height of his climbing career, the Mazamas were fortunate to have Mr. Robbins as the guest speaker at the 1964 Annual Banquet. That year's October Bulletin states, "With his excellent collection of slides, his sense of humor and unimpeachable climbing background Royal promises to be one of the most outstanding speakers at any Mazama banquet in years." By all accounts, his presentation entitled, “High Rock Adventure” was very popular with members and the event sold out. Mr. Robbins returned forty-two years later and headlined the 2006 Mazama Annual Banquet.

In 1968 Robbins and his wife, Liz, launched Mountain Paraphernalia that sold casual climbing clothing and equipment. The company later became Royal Robbins. After his climbing career, Mr. Robbins turned to kayaking, earning renown for several first descents. Later in his life, Robbins published a three-part autobiography. To Be Brave, published in 2009, covers his birth, early years growing up in West Virginia and Los Angeles, and his introduction to climbing. Fail Falling, followed a year later in 2010, recounts the years between 1950 and 1957 and his climbs in California. Volume three, The Golden Age, 2012, covers his personal life, years in the Army, and the early ascents of El Capitan.

As a pioneering rock climber, Royal Robbins challenged the existing standards of the day and helped introduce all new climbing skills and levels of difficulty. Starting Photo caption: First Ascent of Direct North Face of Sentinel in the 1950s, Robbins established numerous new routes, many of them now revered Rock, Yosemite Valley, May 1962. classics on Yosemite's Half Dome and El Capitan. He had great respect for the current VM1999.023.002 Mazamas generation of free climbers, and lived long enough to see the routes that took him days Collection now done in hours.

52 MAZAMAS

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