Mazama Magazine March 2017

March 2017

Vol. 99 | No. 3

Bulletin

Ice Age in the Gorge Packs of Goodness: Natural Fuel with Flavor Women’s Work for the Wild Pico de Orizaba: Mexico’s Bright Star Mountain

Feature Articles Contact Us MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER | 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org | Center Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE | 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 | 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

Mazama Staff LEE DAVIS • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM • Marketing & Communications Director• sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER • Membership & Development Coordinator • laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org MATTIE COURTRIGHT •Marketing & Events Coordinator• mattie@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK •Finance & Office Coordinator• renee@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON •Youth & Outreach Manager• claire@mazamas.org JUSTIN ROTHERHAM •Education & Activities Program Manager• justin@mazamas.org

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas. org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Climbing & Mountaineering Standards Coming to America, p. 4 Adventure Wild, p. 9 Ice in the Gorge, p. 10 FM101 Snow Climbing Weekend, p. 14 A Women's Work for the Wild, p. 16 Diamonds on the Soles of Her Boots, p. 15 Book Review: Run Fast. Eat Slow., p. 23 Packs of Goodness: Natural Fuel with Flavor for Every Taste, p. 24 Pico de Orizaba, p. 30

Monthly Columns

Executive Director's Report, p. 4 Executive Council, p. 38 Events & Activities, p. 6 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 8 Successful Climbers, p. 8 Classic Mazamas, p. 15 Mazama Lodge, p. 17 Evening Travel Programs, p. 29 Outings, p. 18 Membership Report, p. 33 Adventurous Young Mazamas, p. 34 Trail Trips, p. 36

ADVERTISER INDEX Active Adventures, p. 22 Bend Marathon & Half, p. 9 Centered in Motion, p. 37 Embark Exploration, p. 19 & 39 Folkways Institute, p.32 GORGEous Runner, p. 9 Green Trails Maps, p. 39 Indow Windows, p. 40 Mt. Adams Lodge, p. 15 Montbell, p. 2 Mountain Shop, p. 14 Next Adventure, p. 37 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 17 Peru Trekking, p. 37 prAna, p. 20 US Outdoor, p. 32

Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

Publications Committee

Committee Chair: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Kristie Perry, and Michael Vincerra.

Cover: Peter Day making his way out along the Columbia River's edge to check out the lower tier routes. Photo: Topher Dabrowski. Above: Taking a moment high on Pico de Orizaba at sunrise. Photo: Aaron Nelson MARCH 2017 3

Climbing & Mountaineering Standards are Coming to America I’m proud to announce this month that the Mazamas are joining forces with the American Alpine Club, the Colorado Mountain Club, and The Mountaineers to promote improvements in climbing safety, coordinate stewardship, and advocate for climbing areas in the United States. The four organizations have formally agreed to a working partnership to develop and implement shared standards for climbing and related mountain sports. The standards would apply to volunteer instructors and remain consistent across the country.

As partners we represent four of the largest and longest-standing organizations dedicated to conserving mountain environments, providing quality outdoor education, and advocating for climbers throughout America. As United States’ representative to the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA), the American Alpine Club (AAC) will be leading and facilitating the work, and will ensure that these new standards are internationally recognized by the global climbing community. (See below for more information on the UIAA.) “We all care about introducing the next generation to the great outdoors and we have a responsibility to do it safely and effectively,” AAC CEO Phil Powers said.

“This partnership, with four prominent U.S. mountain clubs, promotes the AAC’s vision of a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes.

In the vertical world, combinations of seemingly insignificant errors add up quickly—competence matters.”

In the past decade the popularity of climbing in the U.S. has increased dramatically, creating a demand for quality climbing instruction. These standards aim to ensure that the entire climbing community benefits from better training and will ultimately make climbing more accessible to everyone. “We have the opportunity to extend the impacts of our organizations by working together,” The Mountaineers CEO Tom Vogl said.

For over 123 years, the Mazamas primary mission has been to promote 4 MAZAMAS

mountaineering, and climbing education is at the very core of our programs. Because of this, and looking towards the future, we believe that as internationally recognized climbing standards are developed in America that the Mazamas should be at the forefront of this effort. Aligned with that belief, last year, in coordination with the AAC, the Mazamas Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) graduated some of the first students in the country with a new nationally recognized universal belay standard.

Working together over the next few years, the Mazamas, the AAC, CMC, and The Mountaineers agreed to work through each of the eight UIAA categories for climbing and mountain sport standards. Standards for Mountain Trekking in summer and winter, and also for Sport Climbing will be addressed first, with work commencing in 2017. Future categories include Rock Climbing, Alpine Climbing, Glacier Travel, Ice Climbing, Ski Mountaineering, and Canyoneering.

The UIAA defines these categories as Mountain Qualification Labels, or MQLs, and together they are an internationally recognized accreditation and certification scheme that examines and evaluates the training programs of UIAA member organizations. The American Alpine Club, as our representative to the UIAA, is responsible for disseminating these MQLs across America and endorsing partner organizations like the Mazamas.

“The Colorado Mountain Club is thrilled to be formally partnering with other influential mountain clubs to assist in the development and dissemination of new mountain skills training standards in America,” CMC Executive Director Scott Robson said. “By coordinating our efforts nationally, we raise the bar in regards to the quality of education that organizations like the CMC provide and we look forward to the positive impact these standards will have on our members and all of those who recreate in the mountains for years to come.”

Justin Rotherham, our Education and Activities Program Manager at the Mazamas,

What Does This Mean For You? For general members, students, and participants: In the future national standards will mean that courses and classes you take at the Mazamas, or at other certified training locations will be teaching consistent and standard curriculum and your training will be transferable and meaningful between institutions.

For volunteer instructors: National standards will mean that your training and certifications will be transferable between institutions. Additionally you will have a higher level of confidence that your participants know what they say they know and are using more consistent techniques.

For parents, insurance agents, risk managers, search and rescue departments, and concerned community members: National standards will ensure that many more people will receive correct and consistent training which will improve safety and reduce risks when people go climbing, hiking, skiing, and mountaineering.

is serving as our lead project manager to the planning group. Rotherham will be working directly with Ron Funderburke at the AAC as well as with education and risk management program staff at our partner organizations to move these projects forward. If you have questions or want to learn more please contact Justin Rotherham at justin@mazamas.org.

Lee Davis Mazamas Executive Director

ABOUT THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes.

Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most soughtafter climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages the Hueco Rock Ranch, New River Gorge Campground, and Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $100,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org.

ABOUT THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB The Colorado Mountain Club is the state’s leading organization dedicated to adventure, recreation, conservation and education.

Founded in 1912, the CMC acts as a gateway to the mountains for novices and experts alike, offering an array of yearround activities, events and schools centered on outdoor recreation. The Club comprises 13 regional groups across the state to serve the local needs of its members and partners.

To ensure the continued enjoyment of Colorado’s pristine places, the CMC also leads efforts to protect wild and public lands with its conservation and stewardship programs. The Club publishes a quarterly magazine, Trail & Timberline, and operates a press with 50 current titles.

No other organization in the Intermountain West employs such a strong or broad approach to connecting people with the Rocky Mountain landscape. Learn more at cmc.org.

ABOUT THE MAZAMAS The Mazamas promotes mountaineering, responsible recreation, and conservation through outdoor education, youth outreach, and advocacy programs. Founded on the summit of Mt. Hood, and headquartered in Portland, Oregon, the Mazamas has been working to represent and support everyone who loves to play in and protect the mountains of the Pacific Northwest for more than 120 years. The Mazamas operate one of the largest centralized mountaineering training schools in the country, graduating more than 500 people per year with basic to intermediate level climbing skills. The Mazamas also have a robust grants program that distributes more than $50,000 per year through conservation, research, and expedition grants. Members enjoy priority access to programs, domestic rescue insurance, and the opportunity to apply to our larger grants, including the $10,000 annual Bob Wilson Expedition Grant. Additional programs include classes in outdoor leadership, expedition planning, nordic skiing, ski mountaineering, wilderness first aid, and a variety of outdoor skill building courses.

You can learn more about the Mazamas and start your adventure here: mazamas.org.

ABOUT THE MOUNTAINEERS The Mountaineers is an organization dedicated to helping people explore, conserve, learn about and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Founded in 1906, the 12,000-member Mountaineers community offers thousands of volunteer-led courses, activities, and events to connect young and old, novice and veteran, to the power and wonder of the natural world.

The Mountaineers’ advocacy program is Washington’s leading voice for protecting the wild places where we play.

Mountaineers Books expands passion for the outdoors internationally through awardwinning publications, including instructional guides, adventure narratives, and conservation photography. Learn more at mountaineers.org.

WHAT IS THE UIAA?

The Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) or International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation was founded in Chamonix, France on August 27, 1932 when twenty mountaineering associations met for an alpine congress. Also commonly known by its French name "Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme," the group was founded with the purpose of the study and solution of all problems regarding mountaineering.

Most people who participate in climbing and mountaineering today are familiar with seeing the UIAA safety label on climbing ropes and equipment such as helmets, harnesses, and crampons. The UIAA safety label was created in 1960 and was internationally approved in 1965 and is currently recognized by 68 countries.

The UIAA is also the global authority for climbing and mountain sports and is recognized as such by the International Olympic Committee (ICO). The UIAA’s goal is to ensure ice climbing becomes part of the official Olympic competitions at the 2022 Winter Olympic Games in Beijing.

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Upcoming Mazama & Community Events The Wy'East Ski Mountaineering Series consists of three races that occur once a month, starting in March. The first event is a fun and casual way to be introduced into the world of ski mountaineering racing and then progresses into more challenging courses with a formalized event in the final two races. It is for anyone curious about Ski-Mo racing and is welcome to all levels on Alpine Touring, Tele or Nordic gear. Wy'East Ski Mountaineering series is a fundraiser for Northwest Avalanche Center and the second race is a paired fundraiser for the Children's Cancer Association.

Get more details: tinyurl.com/WyeastSkiMo.

MARCH 2 AT TIMBERLINE

WY’EAST SKI MOUNTAINEERING SERIES

TELLURIDE MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL On March 9 at the Revolution Hall, Portland Mountain Rescue will host the Telluride Mountain Film Festival screening independent documentary films from around the world focused on outdoor adventure and culture. This will be a night of truly inspirational movies about the outdoors while supporting a great organization—Portland Mountain Rescue. Expect a huge equipment raffle as well!

WOMEN WORKING FOR THE WILD The Portland EcoFilm Festival, Crag Law Center, and the Mazamas present an evening of films about women working to protect wild places! You’ll be treated to the premiere of Maiden of the Mountain, a documentary on local conservationist Kate McCarthy. This evening also includes a post-film panel discussion about efforts to secure protection for wild forests and drinking water supplies on the historic north side of Mt. Hood at Cooper Spur. Get tickets at: portlandecofilmfest.org/womenworking/

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MARCH 9 AT REVOLUTION HALL

Cost: $10 (cash only); funds to go to climbing wall costs, holds and foam Prerequisite: Prior participation in Mazama climbing schools and/or the ability to demonstrate proper belay technique.

MARCH 19 AT THE HOLLYWOOD THEATRE

Come and practice your skills on the instructional rock and ice walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The purpose of these sessions is for practice and training. No instruction will be supplied and all climbers are expected to have prior training. Special ice tools will be available for use on the ice wall.

MARCH 5 10AM3PM AT THE MMC

OPEN CLIMB DAYS

Brush up on your basic rock climbing skills such as knots, tying in, climbing commands, belaying, rappelling, prusiking, passing protection on a fixed line and cleaning a top-rope anchor. You do not need to be a Mazama member to register for these climbing clinics.

Cost: $15 per evening clinic.

For more information and to register go to: tinyurl.com/maz-basicrock

MARCH 20 69 PM AT THE MMC

BASIC ROCK SKILLS

Sale: March 24, 5–6 p.m. for Mazama members and students in climb classes; 6–8 p.m. for the general public.

Dropoff: March 23, 4–8 p.m.

CREVASSE RESCUE SKILL BUILDER This course consists of a lecture and a field session and includes demonstrations of crevasse terrain, proper ways to rope up for glacier travel, crevasse avoidance, group rescue techniques, and 2:1 and 3:1 mechanical advantage hoisting systems.

Spring Session 1: Lecture March 27 & Field Session April 1 Spring Session 2: Lecture April 24 & Field Session April 29 Tuition: $55 members, $80 nonmembers.

For more information go to: tinyurl.com/MAZcrevasserescue

MULTIPLE DATES MMC & TIMBERLINE

Clear out your gear room! Make way for more! The Used Equipment Sale (UES) is an annual event. Sellers can make some money by letting go of unused gear and buyers can get great deals on field-tested equipment.

MARCH 24 58 PM AT THE MMC

USED EQUIPMENT SALE

Families Rock Skills is an open climbing session on the MMC climbing walls. Our focus is to help your family become comfortable with roped climbing in a supportive, low pressure atmosphere developed to encourage kids. Bring along some snacks, water, dinner and extra clothing layers. Limited to 20 climbing kids and adults.

Cost: $2 per person, $5 max per family.

For more information go to: tinyurl.com/maz-familyrock

APRIL 3 58 PM AT THE MMC

FAMILIES ROCK SKILLS

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Volunteer Opportunities MAZAMA MOUNTAIN SCIENCE SCHOOL CHAPERONES

RISK MANAGEMENT VOLUNTEERS

MARCH 6–8 Work with 5th grade students attending the Mazama Mountain Science School.

Assist students in understanding core concepts of the learning stations and preparing their final presentation. Some assistance needed to get kids ready to play in the snow, get organized for their day, and get ready for bed. Background check required. If you enjoy kids and snow, you will enjoy this opportunity! This is a 3-day, 2-night commitment and takes place at Mazama Lodge. Chaperones needed March 6–8. Contact Ann Griffin, anngriffin@ mazamas.org.

Risk Management Committee is involved with mitigating risk for Mazamas in their adventures. Among our responsibilities is to review incident reports and complete safety reviews of Mazamas’ programs.

If you are interested in joining the Risk Management Committee contact Sandra Volk at riskmanagement@mazamas.org.

LIBRARY & ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks.

Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests.

Volunteers should have an interest in Oregon mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices helpful, not mandatory. Please contact Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to sign up or learn more.

LEAD HIKES FOR MAZAMA FAMILIES The Mazama Families program offers regular hikes for kids and their parents to participate in together. These hikes give families a chance to explore the beauty of the outdoors, and to prepare for more strenuous activities like climbs. Hike Leaders receive basic leadership training, first aid and CPR, and do a provisional lead with the guidance of a hike leader mentor.

Families hike leaders must also complete a background check. If interested, contact Jason Linse, families@mazamas.org.

BE A CLASSY CLASSIC We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. We need a secretary for meeting minutes, a co-chair to help with planning and communication, and more. You don't have to commit to three years but, of course, it would be so nice if you could. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of the month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Contact Rose Marie Gilbert at 503-762-2357 or gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net if you are interested.

USED EQUIPMENT SALE VOLUNTEERS

MARCH 23, 24 & 25 The Used Equipment Sale takes a huge amount of volunteer care and effort. This year’s coordinators are looking for both planning and day-of volunteers to help with the sale. If you are interested in helping out, go to mazamas.org/activitiesevents/used-equipment-sale/.

MANAGE TRAIL TRIPS SOCIAL MEDIA PRESENCE Do you enjoy Mazama Trail Trips so much that you'd like to spread the word? Trail Trips is seeking a friend of the committee to keep our Facebook presence fresh. We pledge to supply content to assist in this effort.

Contact Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org if you're able to help.

TREE PLANTING APRIL 8 The Conservation Committee invites Mazamas who like to get a little dirt under their fingernails out for our second and final tree planting event of the season. We will join forces with the Sandy River Basin Watershed Council to underplant Western red cedar in Mount Hood National Forest.

Tools provided. Dress for the weather and off-trail work. Carpool from the MMC. April 8, 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Sign up here: bit.ly/2kIvUAq. Questions? Contact Lea Wilson, lea.ione.w@gmail.com.

ADVANCED ROCK OPPORTUNITIES IN MARCH, APRIL & MAY Calling all AR grads! The next AR class begins on March 4 and we need your help!

We have a powerful cohort looking to learn to climb trad. It is through your experience, expertise, and understanding that they too will become experts and leaders within the rock realm. If you have the opportunity to help out with this year’s class, please let us know at assistants.advancedrock@gmail. com. Let’s make this a memorable AR year!

We need volunteers on weekends between March 4–May 14. Please see the full schedule here: tinyurl.com/mazadvancedrock.

MAKE ADVENTURES COME TRUE The Expedition Committee is seeking members to review expedition grants twice a year (winter/summer). Also, looking for committee members interested in planning expedition networking events to let the community know about our funding opportunities. If interested, please contact expedition@mazamas.org.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS January 14, Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Chaitanya Sathe. Ghislain Gressard, Prajwal Mohan, Terry Sayre February 14, Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Shane Harlson. Ghislain Gressard, Alex Lockard, Paul Munn

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ADVENTURE WILD

Five weeks of adventure 9 a.m.–5 p.m. this summer at the MMC Adventure WILD Summer Day Camp for youth ages 4–10 is returning to the Mazama Mountaineering Center in 2017! At Adventure WILD, we believe that authentic learning takes place when children are able to investigate and interact with the world around them. Nature is our playground and children are encouraged to wonder, inquire, learn and discover about their surroundings, guided by experienced educators. Through thematic and guided activities, your child will laugh, learn, and make memories to last a lifetime. Plus, every camp includes a day of rock climbing in our very own MMC and the last three sessions of camp spend a day at the Mazama Lodge. We're offering a $35 registration discount to Mazamas members! More information and registration at http://tinyurl.com/mazadventurewild Mazamas enter code MAZAMAS2017 for your discount!

Weekly Themes: ▶▶ July 10: WILD Art and Imagination ($295) ▶▶ July 17: WILD Critters and Conservation ($295) ▶▶ July 24: WILD Science and Exploration ($325)* ▶▶ July 31: WILD Rocks and Rivers ($325)* ▶▶ Aug. 7: WILD Mountains and Glaciers ($325)* *includes transportation and lunch at the Mazama Lodge.

MARCH 2017 9

10 MAZAMAS

Intro by Kevin Machtelinckx

I

t’s said that the last ice age ended some 12,000 years ago. Since then, the masochistic beast known as the ice climber has had to content him or herself with traveling to far off places to find good quality water ice to sink their tools into. Every once in a while, however, the climbing gods grace our local spots with a frigid breath, freezing gushing waterfalls into suspended sculptures of solid, transparent goodness. The week of January 12th, 2017 saw one of these events unfold in our local Columbia River Gorge. While many of us sought refuge from the sub-freezing temperatures, others went for all-out glory. Whether it was first ascents by experienced climbers or first attempts by novices getting their feet wet (or frozen), the week-long ice-fest provided a rare opportunity to get on ice in one of the most scenic areas of the Pacific Northwest. Topher Dabrowski, Brad Farra and Jonathan Barrett give us a glimpse into what the experience was like.

by Topher Dabrowski The 2016–2017 Columbia River Gorge ice climbing season is basically a wrap at this point since, after February, it is quite rare to see temperatures consistently low enough for any ice to form near Portland.

However, this season was very conducive to ice formation in the Gorge and surrounding areas, as there were three distinct cold snaps with just very moderate warming in between. This season, I concentrated my efforts on Cape Horn, since it offers a good variety of route options and a high density of ice climbs in a relatively compact area. I could easily make trips to the Cape as I work and live in fairly close proximity and, fortunately, Highway 14 was open for most of the bad weather spells.

This was a real luxury when compared to making the 12+ hour drive to Hyalite Canyon in Bozeman, one of my usual ice climbing venues.

Since I have lived in the region, I have made it a point to watch Cape Horn's ice formations during the Gorge ice season. This year, by far, offered more routes in thicker conditions than previous years. Many lines formed which, in previous years, had little to no ice. It was impressive how quickly the ice formed at Cape Horn and, over a period of three to four days, I watched a route turn from a major mixed line into an almost complete ice route. It’s a shame that particular line didn't have a few more climbable days, otherwise it would have surely seen an ascent. For now it goes unnamed and unclimbed (to the best of my knowledge).

My first day out to the Cape, I hit Salmon Run on the upper tier with Tim Holscher. We extended that route another pitch and a half past the typical finish to continue up a thin, frozen stream and then ended with a short steep step. The next trip was with Jeff Waskowiak, where I lead Junk Yard, a moderate WI3 route on the middle tier, which I believe is a first ascent. Junk Yard gets its name from an old tire, car seat and driver’sside door found on the top out. A subsequent trip with a group of five provided some exploration of the lower tier, which sits adjacent to the river. On this outing, Peter Way led the first ascent of Wind Walker, which lays just above the railroad tracks.

Although we found many of the other routes in good condition, the wind was too ferocious to allow us to get close, lapping the river’s waves against the walls.

Jeff and I also ascended an unrecorded line just left of Nancy’s Run. We called it Sid’s Slot in keeping with the Sid & Nancy theme. The final day out at Cape Horn was on a blue bird, albeit windy, day. A different group came out this time, and just by chance, one of the members was a photographer. I had my eye on one particular line that was teasing its way into shape and, after we made the approach up the icy gully, I decided it looked good for a go. Luckily, we were somewhat protected from the winds blowing into our little alcove. Although the ice provided for great 'sticks' with the ice tools, the protection was tricky and fickle. As I neared the top, gale force winds roared overhead. I paused to look back over my shoulder taking in the grandeur of the Columbia River Gorge and the splendor of my position. In that moment, Jet Stream became the route’s name.

continued on next page

Topher Dabrowski on the first ascent of Jet Stream, WI4 50m. Photo: Sam Wilson.

MARCH 2017 11

Ice, continued from previous page

by Jonathan Barrett If there is one iconic ice line in the Gorge, it is Ainsworth Left. It seemed certain that our cold snap of historic proportions would put the route into rare condition. Teams often report that the final pitch is very wet, and I was hoping that we would be able to climb every pitch, but I was disappointed. Saturday, January 7th was cold indeed, but the real problem was the wind. Driving east in the predawn darkness with my partner, Chris Hulette, I found it difficult to keep my car between the lines.

The route’s several tiers of ice drop down a deep cleft, each plane turned slightly askew either right or left of the previous one. The effect is dramatic but also heartening. Pitches could be clearly defined. While we eyed the line from the base, gusts whipped the cliff face and tossed all manner of debris down on us: ground up ice, puffs of light snow, ragged pine branches. The wind, violent as it was at the base, seemed positively vicious up high.

For as long as I have been ice climbing, close to twenty years now, I have never lost my respect for the danger inherent in the medium. Looking up at the first pitch, I must admit I was nervous. It was not a gimme. Left and right were overhanging curtains and chandeliered ice. There was a weird, supernatural tilt to the forms, like something out of a H.P. Lovecraft story. Little was plumb. The center was the obvious line, so I headed up tapping gently into the curtain, trying to feel the pulse of the ice beneath the steel of pick and crampon. At one point, the curtain that I was on fractured at eye level, and I called down to my belay, “I have to admit... I’m scared right now!” But he encouraged me to stay focused.

We sent that pitch and the following one as well, a mellow ramp to the base of a face of frozen blobs. While on lead, I had been regularly pelted by falling debris. Some was small, but much of it was too large to not take seriously. My partner was struck too; when he arrived at the second belay, his helmet had taken a blow from a falling object that had punched through the skin into the foam core.

It was obvious, that we were pressing our luck.

With a v-thread and double ropes, we reached the ground and scurried for cover. It was not to be that day. We were defeated not by the route but by the Gorge’s violent winds. It was small consolation to later hear from other parties that the top pitch was too wet to climb.

Jonathan Barrett grew up in New England and moved to Oregon in 1997. He joined the Mazamas in 2007. When not working as a full time language arts teacher at North Marion High School or being a father to a kindergartener, he finds the occasional morning here and there to sneak up Mt. Hood, pull some plastic, or crank out a long run in Forest Park.

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by Brad Farra The two weeks of the January ice event saw us get out on three different days. The idea wasn’t necessarily to bag any first ascents, but rather just get out and get some climbing in. We hit Cape Horn in some nasty winds on one day, then climbed just east and west of Multnomah Falls during the other two.

Cape Horn was extremely windy when we got to the lower level. We wanted to get on some of the WI5 that we found down there but could barely walk, let alone lead steep ice. The trek to the base of those routes was really beautiful in any case, with all the ice on the beach. In the end, we climbed a really fun, long route called Nancy’s Run, rated at WI4.

When we explored around the Multnomah Falls area, we found some nice formations in an adjacent bowl, just to the west. Multnomah Falls itself, as well as Horsetail Falls, to have too high of a flow to ice-over enough for climbing, though we did get on a route called Thick Enough to Screw just east of Multnomah Falls.

The conditions during all three days were indeed the fattest I have ever seen them in the Gorge. With that said, they weren’t anywhere near what you’d find in places like Cody, Wyoming, Hyalite Canyon in Montana or the Canadian Rockies. The top-outs in the Gorge were always a mystery and many of the routes were runout on frozen mud or moss. It’s still a rare experience to have this kind of climbing only an hour’s drive from Portland. The Gorge is such a unique environment for climbing. There aren’t a lot of ice climbs out there where your approach includes romping through ferns and dense forest.

Main: Brad Farra getting after it near Multnomah Falls. Photo: Whitney Farra.

Left Inset: Peter and Topher battling gale force winds along the shores of the Columbia River. Photo: Ye Zhuang. Right Inset: Brad Farra on Thick Enough to Screw. Photo: Whitney Farra.

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FM101 SNOW CLIMBING WEEKEND

by Kyla Martin One of the students participating in the Mazama Families Mountaineering 101 course, Kyla Martin, age 10, gives her account of the recent FM101 Snow Climbing class at Mt. Hood below. Kyla has participated in Mazama Families activities for three years. To get involved with families activities, visit the website at tinyurl. com/maz-families.

I went up on the mountain to the Mazama Lodge to do snow training for two days with the FM101 class. The first day we went to Timberline Lodge and had a huge marvelous buffet before a big day in the snow. We had to hike in, like, one mile to get to a big snowy hill so we could have a fun day. The first thing we did was learn about three techniques to use crampons and walk in the snow. Crampons are these metal spikes attached to your feet.

Kyla in orange coat. Photo: Craig Martin

Then we learned to glissade, which is sliding down a snowy hill with no crampons on your feet and with your ice axe across your body to steer and self-arrest. It is important that you never glissade on a glacier because you could fall in a crevasse.

That night we stayed at the Mazama Lodge. We had a really good taco dinner made by the chefs Brett and Aaron. Then we had hot chocolate, ice cream and played ping-pong all night. We woke up that next morning to an amazing breakfast.

The second day we learned rope travel. The best part was that we were with fifty or more people which allowed my dad, my dad's friend Justin, my friend Ruby and I to sneak up into the trees and make a big table to put six dozen donuts on. Then we made hot chocolate, apple cider and coffee for everybody. Ruby and I made two benches for everyone to sit on.

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Bringing joy to young hearts

DIAMONDS ON THE SOLES OF HER BOOTS

by Sophie Rahman

I signed up for the Mazamas Balfour–Klickitat River Trail hike and was looking forward to getting out and perhaps seeing some bald eagles on the trail. Our group gathered under blue skies at Gateway Park and Ride and after short introductions we piled into our assigned cars and headed out. The scenery along the gorge was spectacular, the waterfalls had frozen into ice and with all the freezing rain, the trees looked like a giant hedge-cutter had been through to rip off the branches. The wind was buffeting the car, and the river with its white-capped waves looked very stormy! I was hoping the trail would be protected from the wind.

It was during our obligatory pit-stop in Hood River that I noticed one of my diamond earrings was missing! I chided myself for wearing them on a hike as I’ve had them for more than 40 years and they had great sentimental value. I mentioned the loss to our hike leader and we did a cursory search see if my earring had fallen out where I was seated in the car, but to no avail. I was hopeful that it perhaps fell out at home, and did not want to dwell on it too much and thus spoil my day out.

The weather changed the further east we drove, and the snow was piled on the ground—a reminder that it was still winter. The parking area at the trailhead was packed with snow and the eagles were most probably huddled in their nests keeping warm. Determined to spot some bald eagles our leader led us to the spots on the trail where he observed them in the past. As we continued along the trail we did spot bald eagles, both adults and juveniles, along with a blue heron, and lots of deer. The trail was packed with snow and the river below was fast and furious—a beautiful winter scene.

After our hike back at Gateway, the group spent some time searching the areas we gathered earlier that morning.

Our hike leader was optimistic and thought I would likely find it at home. After not finding it at home, I was convinced that it had fallen off at Gateway. I headed back to the Park and Ride, armed with a flashlight to scour the area once more time.

Mid-search a car drove up and parked near me. It was a group of people returning from a day out hiking. I walked over and explained my predicament, and asked if anyone had found a diamond earring—a long-shot, but worth the try. They were part of a Meetup group that had just returned from snowshoeing on Larch Mountain Road. To my complete and utter amazement, one of the women said that she found a diamond earring lodged in the sole of her boot that morning! Apparently, the woman discovered it during her lunch break when she was adjusting her boots.

She had given it to her friend, who had also misplaced one of her diamond earrings. Once we had connected and determined it was indeed my earring, I picked it up the next morning in Vancouver.

What an amazing coincidence it was to come across, by chance, the woman who had my diamond earring lodged in the sole of her boot? I guess it was meant to be.

CLASSIC MAZAMAS FOR MEMBERS WITH 25 YEARS OR MORE OF MEMBERSHIP OR FOR THOSE WHO PREFER TO TRAVEL AT A MORE LEISURELY PACE We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome. Contact: Rose Marie Gilbert at 503-762-2357 or gilbertrosemarie@centurylink.net or classics@mazamas.org.

LEADING ACTIVITIES Contact Rose Marie Gilbert by the twelfth of each month for inclusion in the upcoming Bulletin.

WE NEED VOLUNTEERS! See the Volunteer Opportunities section for more information.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MONTHLY MEETINGS Our meetings are the fourth Monday of the month from 11 a.m.– 2:30 p.m. at the MMC. Check the website for specific dates.

TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick-up point is Gateway; our west side is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events, sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact transportation coordinator, Flora Huber, at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

Mt. Adams Lodge at the

Flying L Ranch 4 cabins 12 rooms and a historic lodge on 80 beautiful acres! www.mt-adams.com

MARCH 2017 15

WOMEN WORKING FOR THE WILD Documentary on Local Conservationist Kate McCarthy Premieres at Hollywood Theatre Film Festival

by Barbara Weiss

M

ark your calendars for March 19 at the Hollywood Theater for a unique evening of short films about wild places and the women who have loved and cared for them.

The Portland EcoFilm Festival, Crag Law Center, and the Mazamas are presenting this evening of films, that will include a post-film panel discussion about efforts to secure protection for wild forests and drinking water supplies on the historic north side of Mt. Hood at Cooper Spur.

Of special interest is the film Maiden of the Mountain which tells the inspirational story of the life and work of Kate McCarthy.

Supported in part by a 2016 Mazamas conservation grant, the film is directed by filmmaker Trip Jennings and Ralph Bloemers, co-executive director and attorney for Crag Law Center.

It was Kate McCarthy’s boundless enthusiasm and her deep respect for the natural world that drove her involvement with many local conservation organizations including the Columbia Gorge Commission, Oregon Natural Resources Council (now Oregon Wild), and 1000 Friends of Oregon. Kate was a founding member of Friends of Mount Hood (FOMH); she served on the boards of the Oregon Environmental Council and Friends of the Columbia River Gorge.

Kate understood the value of wetlands, and with FOMH she fought valiantly for many years to restore and protect the wetlands within Mount Hood Meadows ski permit area. Due to Kate’s perseverance, a successful lawsuit provided protections for the wetlands.

Among other achievements, Kate co-founded the Cooper Spur Wild and Free coalition which worked to oppose the proposal for an all-season resort and condominiums on the north side of the Mt. Hood.

A tireless and dedicated conservationist, Kate’s mantra was, “There is no right way to do the wrong thing.” This film is a testament to Kate McCarthy’s love of Mt. Hood and her unwavering dedication to protecting it for future generations.

Tickets are available now at: portlandecofilmfest.org/womenworking/

16 MAZAMAS

Kate McCarthy

OTHER FILMS SHOWN INCLUDE THE PORTLAND PREMIERES OF: ▶▶ Water Song—About a subsistence farmer in Peru’s northern highlands, who stood up to the giant mining corporation over the development of a gold and copper mine on her property. (Director: Will Parrniello/Mill Valley Film Group) ▶▶ Operation Moffat—About Britain's first female climbing guide, Gwen Moffat. (Director: Jen Randall/Light Shed Pictures) ▶▶ Think Like a Scientist: Boundaries—About conservation photographer Krista Schlyer, who spent seven years documenting the environmental effects of the U.S./Mexico border wall, and biologist Jon Beckmann, who studies how man-made barriers influence the movement of wildlife.

(Director: Neil Losin/Howard Hughes Medical Institute). ▶▶ Sage Brush Sisters—About three intrepid women, from ages 65 to 80, who followed a pronghorn migration path across Oregon’s high desert. (Director: Michelle Alvarado/ Wahoo Films, Oregon Natural Desert Association)

Where's the Annual?

Your Annual is moving to August!

You'll be treated to the same great stories, reports from the previous year, a history of the last year of events, in addition to the most recent award winners from the volunteer recognition event in May. Expect to see the Annual in your mailbox in early to mid-August.

OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY

PORTLAND, OR

MAZAMA LODGE YOUR HOME ON THE MOUNTAIN WINTER FESTIVAL This year’s Winter Festival is March 11 from Noon–8 p.m.

The day starts with grilled burgers and veggie burgers on the deck. Our Winter Festival director, Mark Seker, will start the afternoon with registration for snow sculptures, outdoor activities, and we'll end the day with the Mazama Birkebeiner Race. The award banquet begins at 5 p.m. followed by familyfriendly folk dancing from 6–8 p.m. complete with live music.

Lunch is $9/adults $6/youth 12 and under. Dinner is $13.25/ adults and $7/youth 12 and under. Activities are free!

SPRING BREAK Mazama Lodge will be open from noon on March 23–Noon April 3. Based on our strong winter we are going to have one of our best spring skiing years since 2008 where the lodge had snow into June!

As a reminder locker rentals are now past-due. If we don’t receive payment by April we will start to empty out lockers and items inside will be donated to the used equipment sale. If you are interested in renting a locker it’s $25 per year. If you still need to pay for your locker you can call the lodge directly.

ESTABLISHED 1971

OMCGEAR.COM 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

Mazama Dan Sherman introduces future member to the lodge.

MARCH 2017 17

OUTINGS ADVENTURE TRAVEL—FOREIGN & DOMESTIC HELLS CANYON BACKPACK APRIL 22–28 Backpack Snake River National Recreation Trail enjoying Hells Canyon’s solitude, Old West history, scenery, and wildlife. Backpack 10–12 miles/day, moderate pace, carrying five day’s food and camping gear.

Cost: $220–$290 depending on group size.

Covers carpool, campground and Outing fees. Participants responsible for meals and equipment. Pre-trip meeting April 11. Full payment due March 20.

Contact outing leader Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@gmail.com or assistant leader Reuel Kurzet, rkurzet@comcast.net for information or to apply.

HIKE THE CANYONS OF SOUTHWEST UTAH APRIL 29–MAY 6 Join us to explore canyons and enjoy the beauty of southwest Utah. We plan to spend the first afternoon in Bryce Canyon National Park after picking up rental vehicles at the Las Vegas Airport (plan an early flight), then drive to Escalante RV Park where we will be staying for seven nights in shared cabins. Camping is also available as we have sites reserved.

From there, we will lead B and C hikes in the canyons—there will be an optional one night backpack to Coyote Gulch. Outing cost for members is $224–$235 for a tent or $295–$306 for a cabin; for nonmembers it is $294–$305 for a tent or $365–$376 for a cabin. Costs include lodging, permits, and fees. Participants are responsible for travel (SUV or crossover vehicle recommended) and all meals. A $75 deposit is required by Feb. 1.

Contact Dyanne Foster at dyfozter@gmail.com or assistant leader Lesley Langan at lesley@yahoo.com for more information or to apply. We will have a preouting meeting in Feb. 2017.

CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING JULY 9–24 Intermediate Climbing School graduates, Advanced School graduates, or equivalent experience required. Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+. Outing cost will be $2,250 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round-trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains, and cable cars are included). Food cost, hut fees, and the Midi-Hellbronner gondola not included. For full details go to the website.

Contact leader, Lee Davis, lee@mazamas.org for more information.

MT. THIELSEN TO DIAMOND PEAK PCT BACKPACK JULY 21–28 Backpack the spectacular Pacific Crest Trail from Mt. Thielsen to Diamond Peak. We begin with a Mt. Thielsen climb, then continue on the Pacific Crest Trail to our climb of Diamond Peak. Lakes, forest, and countless scenic views await you on this comfortably paced trip. We’ll take seven days to cover the 57 miles of trail and climb approaches. Participants should be able to carry a backpack with four days of food and camping gear, and have class “A” climbing skills.

Outing cost of $142 to $345 for a group size of three to five, including leaders. Cost includes mileage to and from our entry and exit points, plus campground and outing fees. Participants are responsible for their meals and equipment.

A trip overview and gear assessment and recommendation session will be held prior to departure.

A $150 deposit is due June 20. Outing leader is Joe Whittington (joewhittington@gmail. com) 503-297-6344. Assistant Leader: TBD

YELLOWSTONE OUTING JULY 30–AUG. 5 The Mazamas will be hiking in America’s oldest national park in the summer of 2017.

Richard Getgen and Robert Smith are your leaders. We will day-hike Monday–Friday.

There will be two hikes offered each day, a combination of A- and B-level hikes in the national park.

Our base camp will be in the southeast section of Yellowstone National Park.

Participants will make their own reservations at the resort which offers cabins, tent sites, and RV sites. The cost of the outing is $175 for members and $245 for nonmembers.

We will have a pre-outing meeting next spring to meet the group members, organize carpools, and present information. Contact Richard at teambears@frontier.com to register.

OREGON COAST TRAIL HIKING AUG. 9–16 Based out of Humbug Mountain State Park, we will hike approximately 70 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Bandon to the California border. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of the trail. Most of the hiking will be on the beach interspersed with trails through the headlands. This is a diverse area with spectacular scenery.

Participants are responsible for making their own transportation, lodging/camping arrangements, and meals; and can come for fewer than 8 days if they wish. Outing cost will range from $105–$240 depending on the number of participants and member status. A $150 deposit is required, with sign-up by July 15. (Participants should make reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at Humbug Mountain State Park.)

Outing leader is Joe Whittington (joewhittington@gmail.com), 503-297-6344; Assistant Leader: TBD.

Want to go on an Outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form.

Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the Outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers— seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club— americanalpineclub.org. As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.

18 MAZAMAS

HIKING IN THE TRINITY ALPS OCT. 1–8

TRINITY ALPS OCT. 1-8

Looking for WILDerness? Then join us for a 7-day outing in the remote Trinity Alps of Northern California.

Daily B- or C-level hikes will explore granite peaks, glacier-carved canyons, lush meadows and sparkling mountain lakes. We can expect warm daytime temperatures and uncrowded trails.

We will be staying at the Ripple Creek cabins, each of which is completely furnished and unique. Outing cost, depending on participation of a minimum of 6 to a maximum of 10 (including leaders) ranges from $548 to $412 for members and $618 to $482 for nonmembers inclusive of lodging and fees. Each participant is responsible for his/her food and travel to and from the cabins—a round trip of approximately 780 miles.

Application and a deposit of $200 is required by July 1; contact leader Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail. com or assistant leader Sherry Bourdin sbourdin@reig. com for more information or to apply. Food and travel to and from the cabins—a round trip of approximately 780 miles.

A deposit of $200 is required by July 1, which is the deadline for signing up.

MARCH 2017 19

20 MAZAMAS

PRANA PORTLAND 635 NW 23rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97210 (971) 244-0995 MARCH 2017 21

Photo credit prAna ambassador Chris Burkard

MAZAMA USED EQUIPMENT SALE ▶Sale: ▶ March 24, 2017

5–6 p.m. for Mazama members and students in climb classes; 6–8 p.m. for the general public.

▶▶ Gear Drop-off for Sale: March 23, 4–8 p.m. ▶▶ Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Clear out your gear room! Make way for more! The Used Equipment Sale (UES) is an annual event. Sellers can make some money by letting go of unused gear and buyers can get great deals on field-tested equipment. Nordic and telemark ski gear, snowshoes, all kinds of outdoor clothing, assorted (and we do mean assorted!) camping and backpacking gear, shoes and boots, books and technical climbing gear will all be available.

This is a great chance to clean out your gear room of unneeded stuff, make a buck, help out the Mazamas and find some great deals yourself. Mazamas accepts cash, checks or Visa and Mastercard.

WHAT SHOULD YOU DO IF YOU’D LIKE TO SELL SOMETHING?

▶▶ Look in your gear closet for sale-able equipment or clothing you aren’t using or have upgraded. ▶▶ Price it reasonably and it will sell; you’ll keep 70 percent of all proceeds. ▶▶ Pick up price tags and tally sheets at the MMC starting Feb. 24. ▶▶ Mark your calendars for March 23 from 4–8 p.m. to drop off items for the sale.

For questions, contact Karen Graves & Meg Linza at ues@mazamas.org or visit the website tinyurl.com/maz-usedsale

Discover Nepal.

Trekking in the Himalayas is as much about the warm and welcoming Nepali people as it is the majestic mountains.

We have a trek for everyone, from the most experienced hiker to those just looking to try something new:

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek AST

(14 days) Journey deep into the Himalayas, hike the glacial Modi Khola River gorge, pass through Gurung settlements and into a breath-taking alpine area.

Everest Base Camp EBC

(19 days) This trek needs no introduction! The scenery is mind blowing with towering snow-capped peaks and jagged ridgelines whichever way you look.

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(14 days) Avoid high elevations and hike deep into the Everest/Khumbu region, see the world’s highest peaks, massive glaciers and remote mountain villages.

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Everest Lodge to Lodge Khumbu

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Get your FREE BROCHURE at: activehimalayas.com or call 1 800 661 9073

22 MAZAMAS

BOOK REVIEW

Run Fast. Eat Slow. Nourishing Recipes for Athletes–by Shalane Flanagan & Elyse Kopecky Review by Sue Griffith

DOUBLE CHOCOLATE TEFF COOKIES Once you collect the ingredients, these cookies are quick and easy to make. Eat some now and hide the rest in the freezer to fuel your next outdoor adventure.

Adapted from Run Fast. Eat Slow.

Conceived during a dinner party, Run Fast.

Eat Slow. is a cookbook packed with ideas for creating wholesome food to fuel athletic 3/4 cup teff flour performance. Targeted at endurance athletes, 1/2 cup almond meal particularly distance runners like the authors, 1/2 cup dark chocolate chips the carefully curated recipes offer a nourishing 1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder diet for any active lifestyle hikers and climbers 1 teaspoon baking powder included.

1/4 teaspoon baking soda Shane and Elyse want you to replace 1/4 teaspoon sea salt commercially prepared sports foods such 1/2 cups maple syrup as the bars, gels, and energy drinks so many 1/3 cup coconut oil, melted of us rely on, with a whole foods-based diet.

1 teaspoon vanilla extract Their solution comes in a collection of recipes based upon nutrient dense foods that nourish Preheat oven to 350º F. the body and aid in post-workout recovery.

Convinced that embracing a balanced diet of In a large bowl, whisk together the teff healthy foods is more important than tracking flour, almond meal, chocolate chips, calories, the authors intentionally omit calorie counts and nutritional content for their cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt. Add recipes. Instead, they provide detailed information about the ingredients they use and the the liquid ingredients and mix just until bodily needs they fulfill. They urge readers to tune into their bodies and learn to tell when combined. enough is enough.

Line a baking sheet with parchment The book begins with the authors’ food philosophy, a one-week eating guide, and paper. Drop the batter by heaping suggestions for a well-stocked pantry. The recipes are grouped by categories, ranging tablespoons one inch apart. from thirst quenchers to nourishing mains to wholesome treats. Within those categories, Bake until bottoms are lightly browned, each recipe is keyed to a purpose such as carb-loading, digestion-enhancing, or energy 12 - 17 minutes depending on desired boost. Sprinkled throughout the book are gorgeous full-color photos, nutritional tips, crispness. Let cool for 5 minutes then and cooking basics. The recipes are experientially-based, literally road-tested by elite transfer to a rack until completely cooled. runners and adjusted to incorporate performance-based feedback. The authors feature organic, local foods and emphasize nourishment and satisfaction over calories and cost.

Yield: 18 large and delicious cookies They also advocate an unapologetic use of fat. This idea of “indulgent nourishment” may be appropriate for elite athletes, but some numbers relating to calories and food composition might help the rest of us with meal planning and portion control.

The book concludes with a chapter on “runner’s remedies” — highlighting foods for relieving various conditions athletes might encounter such as stress fractures, burnout, and colds. All this adds up to a useful reference guide as much as a well thought out cookbook.

So how do the recipes measure up? Returning cold and hungry from a drizzly hike, I thumbed through the book to see what I could create with ingredients on hand. I settled on the Fartlek Chili. After a little chopping and browning, I left the fragrant pan simmering on the stove and by the time I had showered and changed, dinner was ready. I ramped up the seasonings to add a bit more fire and topped off my bowl with a little grated cheese. Tasty and satisfying, but not so filling that dessert was out of the question. The “Wholesome Treats” section of the book led me to Double Chocolate Teff Cookies. I keep teff and other whole grain Cookies fresh from the oven. Photo: Sue Griffith. flours in my freezer so I was able to get right to work. The recipe quickly came together into a thick, nutty dough. I threw in an extra handful of chips, skipped the author’s recommendation to let the batter rest overnight, and added an extra 4–5 minutes to the baking time for a crispier cookie. Warm from the oven, the chips still softly oozing, these proved impossible to resist. After gobbling four of the generous-sized cookies, I realized perhaps I don’t need to know the calorie counts after all.

If you’re looking for some fresh ideas to fuel your outdoor activities, and have the time to shop and cook, make room for this beautiful book on your kitchen shelf.

Flanagan, S. and Kopecky, E. (2016). Run Fast. Eat Slow. Nourishing Recipes for Athletes. New York: Rodale Inc. MARCH 2017 23

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Packs of Goodness:

NATURAL FUEL WITH FLAVOR FOR EVERY TASTE

Above: In a highly competitive market, the creativity used in package design is often beautiful. My ideal is packaging made of biodegradable plastic—and in fact, some companies have already made that switch.

Right: Bobo's Oat Bars.

Photo: Wendy Marshall

by Wendy Marshall

N

ot long ago, I landed a gig at one of our region's largest natural foods expositions, a strictly invitationonly event geared to market suppliers. As a mountaineer and health-conscious eater, I was not merely an odd-woman-out, but a welcome surprise—the voice of a target customer. Wandering the aisles of booths, I marveled in appreciation of the infinite creativity people employed to promote their food. Brand names, themes, symbols, and packages were woven into a distinct experience for each bright square in a giant quilt. Of six hundred vendors, manufacturers and creative foodies, the vast majority were eager to share with me their passions, missions, and stories. I was soon burdened happily with loads of samples of every description.

24 MAZAMAS

My early hope was to coax some of these companies into advertising partnerships with the Mazamas, with the goal of bringing an infusion of monetary and promotional support to both sides.

I had enough sense to realize I was getting ahead of myself. A better first step was simply to inform people, letting relationships grow organically, and seeing what evolves. My very next idea was to review my ample stash of promotional gifts, with a focus on easy-to-pack food bars and snacks of the type I love to bring on hikes and snowboarding trips. Clearly, mountain sports types have heard of Clif Bar, PowerBar, and Luna. But what other vistas awaited us? What nutritional benefits could these products offer to the discerning consumer in search of fresh territory? Or, for that matter, to people seeking their preferred zone, be it vegan, paleo, or gluten-free?

"We're all nuts here." Where I'm from, that saying is a compliment. My trekking choices tend to agree. Where would snack bars be without nuts? The very nuttiest of these is one of my favorites.

KIND SNACKS "Ingredients you can see and pronounce" is the mantra of KIND Snacks, plus a business philosophy of, well, kindness.

Aside from Clif, this may be the most familiar snack bar to us. I first encountered them at a Hope on the Slopes skiing fundraiser for cancer research, where KIND was a sponsor. KIND has already partnered with the Mazamas for at least one event, at which I got to try their Black Truffle sample bar. I love this bar for its earthy, less-sweet flavor. It has a savory truffle bite to balance the honey, and the satisfying chewy-crunchy texture typical of KIND bars, using whole nuts and grains.

Truffles not your thing? KIND has 20 flavors of nut bars, and yet more options with added flax, antioxidants, protein, or drizzled in yogurt. Being a dark chocolate fan, I also enjoyed the Dark Chocolate Cherry Cashew bar in the KIND "Plus" line with added antioxidants, which had a rich, yet not overbearing sweetness.

What's an antioxidant? It's a molecule that protects cells and body tissues from damage by oxygen. In short, it helps keep you from literally "rusting" and aging, always a concern with hard-working muscles and sun-exposed skin. The bars’ highest natural ingredient is cacao, the

chocolate bean; other good sources are dark fruits like cranberries, blueberries and pomegranates, whole grains, and fresh vegetables like spinach and carrots.

For those wishing to skip chocolate, I recommend Maple Glazed Pecan and Sea Salt. KIND also offers snack clusters in a pouch. Their products are gluten-free, non-genetically-engineered (GMO), and many are dairy-free as well. Find them at major Portland natural grocers and at kindsnacks.com.

RAWNOLA BAR Fittingly, I first encountered a Rawnola bar at a forest activist work camp in the Mt. Hood wilderness. Earthling Organics of California uses ingredients as close to their source in nature as possible, such as raw coconuts and almonds, in that what's best for the planet is what's best for us.

Or, as they put it: "Snacks for intelligent lifeforms." Their nine-organic-ingredient, gluten-free, sprouted granola bar in Vanilla has a firm crispycrumbly texture, finely ground and nice to chew, with a strong coconutalmond flavor. If Vanilla seems too sweet, Rawnola also comes in Cacao, Goji Berry, and Matcha. The last contains chlorella, a powerful plant protein great for promoting muscle growth and healthy cells, with a full set of amino acids and vitamins, including lots of Vitamin B12. Yep, it's a green bar.

Rawnola is available at most major grocers like Whole Foods, and Alberta Co-op. Also at earthlingorganics.com.

NOTHIN' BUT FOODS Here's a peek at what may arrive soon.

This company, who uses nothin' but organic stuff like oats, nuts, seeds, fruit and honey, offers baked, gluten-free granola cookies and snack bars in four flavors. I like these for their chewy granola texture and notably vivid flavors—out of the citrus kick of Ginger Lemon Cashew, intense cacao of Chocolate Coconut or ripe, fruity depth of Cherry Cranberry Almond, I couldn't pick favorites. California is littered with vendors, and I heard Nothin' But wants to spread into Costco stores. Until then, hunt them down at nothinbutfoods.com.

Whole grains and seeds are good sources of energy. I especially love sunflower seeds, which are easy to pack or add to salads.

Sunflower seeds strengthen the heart and bones, balance cholesterol, and reduce cancer risk. Both grains and seeds form the bulk of some of the following snacks.

BOBO'S OAT BARS I found the name, handmade look, and story of this product endearing. Bobo's sprung from a mother-daughter team in Boulder, CO, and still prides itself on four basic ingredients and a small-batch baking process. Inside the humble, clear wrapper,

you'll find a thick, hearty, chewy, and incredibly satisfying and flavorful bar. They all taste potently fresh, whether of bright tangy oranges or a coconut that's just been cracked open. Just as good as a newlybaked oatmeal cookie. So far I've tried Cranberry Orange, Coconut and Apple Pie, but this company has 15 flavors of bar to choose from. Just looking at them makes me want to either start baking or head to my friend's farm to play in the fields.

Bobo's Oat Bars are gluten and dairy free, vegan, and non-GMO. These get a definite thumbs-up. Then again, I like my oatmeal. Oats are a slow-burning source of whole grain proteins and complex carbohydrates, full of nutrients and fiber, which help lower cholesterol and prevent heart disease. Bobo's may have begun humble, but it’s now everywhere: Whole Foods, New Seasons, Safeway, REI Co-op, Albertson's, and at eatbobos.com.

UMCHU Marketed as "primitive nutrition," food bars don't get much simpler than this. I love the name of one: Seeds and ... seeds!

continued on next page MARCH 2017 25

Natural Fuel, continued from previous page Be ready to nosh on this chewy, gooey, very seedy bar, which is free of wheat, soy, and dairy. You'd think a snack with a cave-man on it would be suitable for paleo eaters. Since that's a very distinct diet, I'll let readers judge for themselves by the ingredients—seeds of flax, sesame, sunflower, and pumpkin, plus brown rice syrup. That's all. Speaking of flax, if you'd rather not eat fish or fish oil, flax seeds are known for their high content of the beneficial Omega-3 fatty acid, along with many vitamins, minerals and all essential amino acids. Umchu offers six other flavors of bar, too, micro-batched in Edmonds, WA. Whole Foods or Alberta Co-op can hook you up, as can umchubar.com.

HONEY STINGER The founders of this company, with roots back to 1950, did energy foods before "energy bar" was cool, using one of the greatest natural energy foods, honey. Now they're at it again, with a dozen types of organic bars, energy chews, and other goodies. I'll have to go with the Super Fruit & Ancient Grain bar, packed with dried berries and seeds, but I also like the chews.

Honey Stinger is well-known for their sponsorship of athletes and organizations, and they'll be joining us again at Hope on the Slopes 2017. Natural grocers, climbing gyms, sporting goods stores—these guys are everywhere including honeystinger.com.

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TASTE OF NATURE These snacks are laden with good things, topped with visible whole seeds and nuts like a KIND bar. There are 20 flavors, all mostly organic, certified gluten free, nonGMO verified, kosher and vegan. Some flavors are unusual, too, such as Key Lime Pie, Brazil Nut, and Pomegranate. My lone sample, Dark Chocolate Cherry with 10g protein was pure delight, bursting with cherry flavor and crunchy seeds. This is a Canadian company. Unless you venture across the border, the easiest way to try these is ordering via tasteofnature.ca or tasteofnature.com. I'm tempted to ask for a variety pack.

NOSH It's an ideal name for a quick snack. Not a bar but a similar-sized pack of loose, whole-grain nibbles a bit like a lightweight trail-mix, Nosh has a base of puffed rice and comes in five flavor combinations.

These are creative, such as my favorites, Blueberry Lavender Lemon and Coconut Chai. Besides the unique flavors, I love the addition of tiny, dried currants in the mix. For their size, black currants pack lots of vitamins and minerals along with protein and fiber. Nosh is dairy-free, vegan, certified organic. Safeway, Market of Choice and Vitamin Cottage carry Nosh, or find them at thoughtfulfood.net/nosh-organic.

Chewy fuel. For those who prefer a smoother, doughlike consistency like that of a PowerBar, the following will hopefully fit your pack.

RAW REVOLUTION Raw Revolution was started by a nurse and chef. They offer all-organic, plantbased live superfood bars, vegan, glutenfree and kosher too, high in protein but without refined nutrients. I like their Golden Cashew bar, which has fat cashews in a tangy, nutty matrix, while Chocolate Raspberry Truffle grabbed my sweet tooth.

At least six flavors, found in natural co-ops, grocers, and at rawrev.com.

GO MACRO Go Macro caters to the macrobiotic diet, which focuses on mostly whole grains and vegetables, an overall balance of salty-sweet, hot-cold, yin-yang, etc., and positive holistic energy in food. The Go Macro representative I spoke with told me proudly they had one of the highest-selling products on the market. I really like their "Sweet Revival" Sesame Butter and Dates bar, whose rich seed matrix has a natural, delicate sweetness. Cashew Caramel, however, is milder in flavor. Dates are high in nutrients and fiber, easily digested, help your body metabolize energy, and

may prevent cancers. Vegan, soy-free, and no GMOs. Find up to 12 flavors at major grocers, or gomacro.com.

PICKY BARS Picky Bars are an exercise-focused line launched by three professional athletes.

They've hit on a 4:1 ratio of carbs to protein, an ideal balance for workout nutrition. They offer at least eight flavors, mostly organic, not a GMO in sight. I tried their Cookie Doughness bar, which resembles a condensed cinnamonraisin cookie in both texture and taste.

Yum! I found these guys at Trader Joe's or at pickybars.com, where you'll find a summary of ingredients and health benefits.

Protein power. Some companies express their innovation by dedicating their product line to healthier, sustainable, and at times very unusual sources of protein. Here are a few.

CHAPUL "You're not paleo until you eat bugs."

That's the grabber for Chapul cricket protein bars, which do, in fact, have cricket flour in them. What? Why eat crickets? This daring company is all about sustainability. My Chapul representative explained that crickets use only 8% of the food and water as cows to produce the same amount of available protein for people, and create only 1% of the greenhouse gases (cows are farty, and gobble lots of resources). Crickets, she said, have twice the protein of beef, 15% more iron than spinach, and as much B12 as salmon. I quickly began to understand.

But was I ready? After a deep breath, I tried the Thai bar. It was unique in its hints of ginger and lime, but otherwise? Delicious.

Pleasant texture, like any other moist, soft energy bar, yet not overly sweet. I'd never know I was eating bugs. I recommend these not just for adventure, but also their high nutrition content and genuinely tasty, cultural flavor combinations like the Aztec bar with dark chocolate, coffee and cayanne. Chapul bars come in four types, which you can sniff out at Alberta Co-op, Food Front Co-op, Natural Grocers Vitamin Cottage, or at chapul.com.

EVO HEMP If you'd rather not eat animals or bugs, try hemp, the plant source of easily digestible protein. Hemp seeds, I learned, are a nutritionally complete food. They are 33% protein, 35% essential fatty acids like Omega 3 and 6, and contain all nine essential amino acids, plus there's all that lovely fiber. These raw health bars, which come in six flavors, are vegan, non-GMO, gluten-free, and are labeled paleo outright. Evo's Apple Pecan bar is dark, moist and crumbly, full of seeds and spiced apple goodness, maybe my ideal of what a homemade fruitcake should be.

The company offers hemp seed baking flour and other items as well. Find them at natural grocers and at evohemp.com.

RXBAR This whole-food protein bar draws on the power of egg whites for much of its 12 grams of protein, with an overall emphasis on simple nutrition. In fact, it lists its four main ingredients on the front of the wrapper, along with "No B.S." There's a few more, but all are basic and pronounceable.

I tried the Chocolate Coconut, a dense, chewy brick with whole morsels of nuts, fruit and chocolate inside. This density gives a substantial feel to your snacking, and there are eight flavors to pick from.

RxBars are gluten-, soy- and dairy-free.

CrossFit gyms carry them, but so does Trader Joe's and rxbar.com.

Savory alternatives. If the thought of eating yet another sugary-sweet energy bar makes your throat clench in a Gag reflex, fear not, other options exist.

MEDITERRA A company inspired by family meals in Greece, and based on the Mediterranean diet with its focus on fruit, vegetables, grains, and olives. I tried two of their savory bars, Bell Peppers & Green Olives and Black Olives & Walnuts, and loved both. These savory bars, which come in four flavors, have a great balance between sweet and savory, with the former being very subtle. Chewy sun-dried chunks pair well with crisp, puffed amaranth seeds.

Mediterra also has four types of sweeter bar with yogurt and oats. Of these, I like the Apricot & Pistachio bar, a pungent, fruity bar, dipped in white yogurt. Again, I like the harmony of complex flavors. I look forward to trying all of these! All are non-GMO, gluten-free. In the Portland area, Market of Choice, GNC, Pharmaca and possibly Whole Foods carry Mediterra along with their site mediterranutrition.com.

continued on next page Left: Many snack products today use all-organic ingredients, which are also delicious nutrient boosts if eaten by themselves. Photo: Taste of Nature Company.

Above: Depending on your taste, there's no shortage of choices for quick energy on a long trek, even for very conscious eaters. Photo credit: Wendy Marshall

MARCH 2017 27

Natural Fuel, continued from previous page GOPAL'S HEALTHFOODS Power wraps? What are those? A savory snack stick made from ground nuts and seeds, wrapped in nori, the seaweed used for wrapping sushi. These aren't sweet at all, and resemble a stick of jerky, but they're vegan. I tried the Masala wraps, which have a dry texture and a spicy, warm taste. Nori is rich in protein, iron, iodine (typical of seaweeds), and fiber, and lowers both cholesterol and risk of cancer. Gopal's is dedicated to ethical products for the planet and specializes in 100% raw, sprouted, organic foods. What's this scoop on sprouted foods? A seed, like an egg, is like an armored food storage unit. Much of this fuel is starch, which a human body converts to sugar. When the seed sprouts, the young plant begins consuming the starch, resulting in a food with higher protein and fiber, and a lower glycemic index. Eat sprouted bread, rather than white or whole wheat, and you'll feel fuller faster. Some seeds, like flax, are so well-armored that your body has a hard time utilizing them, unless they're freshly ground into flour or sprouted.

Besides Power Wraps, Gopal's offers four types of nutty, fruity Rawma snack bar, which I have yet to try, as well as raw food crackers and cookies, Sprouties seed packs, Rawmanola clusters, and much more.

Alberta Co-op and Food Fight! carry their products; other natural grocers may, as well as their site gopalshealthfoods.com.

RHYTHM SUPERFOODS These people make vegging out easy, even for people who dislike eating vegetables. Not bars but vegetable chips or "bites," they're delicious alternatives to trail mix or granola clumps. I particularly like all three flavors of Broccoli Bites, which are crunchy and bursting with savory spice. They also have beet chips and kale chips. Most natural grocers and food co-ops will offer them and their site rhythmsuperfoods.com.

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"Are you like a vegetarian, or what?" I can't count the times I've been asked something like this, perhaps because I look like one. What I am is odd: I shy away from chicken and turkey, but like red meat (thank you, cows) and salmon. Just don't mention the chocolate. Here are three choices for carnivores.

EPIC Epic had a nice booth for their 100% naturally-sourced animal products. In keeping with paleo ideas, they believe in the wisdom of our ancestral diet, but just as important is for animals to live and graze as naturally as possible. Holistic, biodynamic ranching, Epic argues, can restore grassland, unlike the industrial farming and agriculture practices we're seeing today. I'd never eaten buffalo, so I gave their Bison bar a try. It's salty yet sweet, incredibly piquant with a slight smoky taste and cranberries inside. It's not pure bison but also contains bacon, and this is noticeable. Epic offers 11 types of meat bar, and lots more (salmon fillets, too). Most natural grocers and health food stores carry them, or go to epicbar.com.

MIGHTY BAR Mighty Bar specializes in pure grass-fed, organic prairie beef from Down Under, with a farmers' cooperative over 20 years old. They have three flavors of bars; I tried Cranberry & Sunflower Seed. It has good flavor, but a bit harder texture, more in the style of juicy jerky than Epic's bison creation.

Whole Foods, New Seasons and Alberta Co-op carry them; mightyorganic.com.

TANKA Tanka is worth checking out. Native American Natural Foods makes these buffalo-meat snacks to advocate natural and healthy eating, a Native respect for living things, and racial interconnectedness. Tanka offers four flavors Tanka is widespread, from New Seasons and Whole Foods to Pharmaca, Food Front, Little Green Grocer, REI, co-ops, and many others including their site tankabar.com.

What a ride. Mighty bars, picky bars, kind bars, power wraps, a revolution in food. The most difficult part of this journey for me was choosing, from such bounty, which to discuss. Variety, the omnivore's dilemma, is truly the spice of life. For such wholesome, certified products (at the expo, I learned just how costly certification is), all are reasonably priced. Of course, if you're bold, you can also try making food bars of any sort, as I've done. But often, you may not have time.

When stuffing your pack with snacks this coming year, why not try something new? Many of us take joy in striking out on a path we've never explored before. But I discovered there's no less of a thrill in walking up to someone you've never seen, who's offering their passion to the world via a company they started only a month ago, and asking, "Can I try it?" That way, there's plenty of room to be adventurous.

Wendy Marshall got involved with the Mazamas through BCEP in 2014. An outdoor sports enthusiast, she loves hiking, snowboarding, and studying rocks and wild plants. She also volunteers periodically with Bark, a local forest conservation non-profit.

She is steadily becoming a full-time writer and novelist, fueled mostly by apples, tea, German fruitcake and dark chocolate.

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS EVERY WEDNESDAY AT 7 P.M., MID-OCT. THROUGH MIDAPRIL AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER. Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance.

Fun, Failures & Mediocrity—March 1 A SAMPLING OF MULTI-PITCH ROCK CLIMBS BEYOND NORTH AMERICA For the last nine years Radek & Shirley Chalupa have focused on finding interesting places to rock climb around the world. They are weekend warriors so this will be an overview of every-man's routes. From the karst mountains of southern China to the sea stacks of Tasmania, from the splitter granite cracks of Argentina to the huge desert towers of Mali and beyond—they’ll give the highlights of the trips, both climbing and cultural, and will address questions about planning and logistics.

Wild Foods of the Pacific Northwest—March 8

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Join us on a visual and culinary tour of edible wild plants and other foragables of the Pacific Northwest. John Kallas, Director of Wild Food Adventures outdoor school and author of Edible Wild Plants: Wild foods From Dirt to Plate, gives an entertaining and educational slide presentation on some of the plants and animals you will come across while traversing different habitats of the Pacific Northwest. From valleys to mountains, oceans to swamps, there are lots of things to eat out there. There will be a question and answer period and John will sell and sign copies of his book at the end of the presentation.

John Muir Trail: The Northern Half—March 15 In 2014, Dan Hannon and Cathie Pake hiked north from Walker Pass to Bishop Pass—a distance of 160 miles. In September of 2016, they completed the John Muir Trail and another part of the PCT by hiking from Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite, to Bishop, via Paiute Pass.

They maintained a leisurely 10 miles per day pace, covering 140 miles in 14 days, at an average elevation of approximately 10,000 feet. This program presents what they consider the most stunning part of the Sierra Nevada, and includes Paiute Valley and Paiute Pass, less often-hiked than the main JMT/PCT route, but high, remote, and stunning.

Adventure Running—March 22

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Along the spine of the Left Coast is a landscape of unspeakable vastness and soul-stirring beauty; a true glimpse into the world as it once was. The Cascade and Sierra Nevada Ranges have been inspiring to adventurers, wanderers, and wonderers for many years. There is no greater setting for discovering one's self than running among these resplendent and magical spaces. Local trail runner and ultra marathoner Sean Harrasser has spent almost thirty years exploring these mountain wildscapes, and exploring the edges of his own capabilities. These are not stories of setting speed records, nor are they centered on racing. They are an ordinary person’s quest for something extraordinary set in the heart of the high country; a sparkling obsession with discovering the beauty and mystery of the Wilderness around us and the Wilderness within us.

Sandor's Magic Hour Tour of Oregon, or Why Sleeping in is Overrated—March 29 Photographer, writer, and filmmaker Sándor Lau gives a tour of his Oregon at that fleeting magic hour just after sunrise and just before sunset where Mother Nature shows off her best.

He got up early to take these pictures so you don't have to! Sándor has been a popular speaker the last two seasons so arrive early to ensure a seat. Previous audiences will remember his film Sándor's New Zealand Trail and not dying of dysentery in Sándor's Oregon Trail.

Sándor will have a limited supply of autographed framed prints there for sale with all profits going to Mazamas.

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PICO DE ORIZABA:

MEXICO’S BRIGHT STAR MOUNTAIN

by Krista Curtis and Aaron

A

t 4:30 p.m. on a Friday afternoon Apizaco was intense—Mexico was intense. We had been up since 2 a.m. and in constant, frantic, motion ever since. Outside the hotel window horns blared, dogs barked, loudspeakers boomed and a thick mass of bodies and vehicles moved. The smells of fresh tortillas and grilled meat wafted in.

A friend’s brother is a taxista in Mexico City, and we opted to hire him to drive us all the way to Apizaco. We piled our small mountain of luggage on the floor and our wads of colored pesos on the bed, and marveled at the value of our 200 peso per night accommodations. These included a hot shower and a TV with a channel that played, almost exclusively, David Bowie music videos (perfect!). We lay down on the bed and stared at each other, listening to the street sounds. Somehow we were actually here!

A few months after our 2014 BCEP class, we heard of the Mexican volcano Pico de Orizaba (18,490 feet) when a group of Chemeketans presented their expedition slide show at a Wednesday night program at the MMC. That very night we both 30 MAZAMAS

knew this was the trip for us. It had that intriguing balance of a challenge big enough to cause significant doubts, while at the same time overlapping with the realm of possibility. Neither of us has an interest in guided climbs, and this was something we thought we could soon do on our own. Also, we were yearning to practice Spanish and experience culture anywhere south of the border. Other than a few escapades in border towns, this was our first international self-supported adventure.

In the beginning, the travel intimidated us more than the climb. We put the most time into researching and planning travel logistics since the climb wasn’t overly complicated. We got passports and visited a travel clinic for vaccinations. We braced ourselves for a flood of new information: language, money, navigating public transit with luggage, finding clean drinking water and food, and simply existing as a stranger in a strange land.

For this climb, we needed to focus on our cardiovascular fitness. About three months before, we increased our training. We hiked Mount Defiance, did laps on the Mount Tabor stairs, cardio machines at the gym, and bike rollers at home. We gave ourselves a B+ on training. We were especially careful to avoid getting sick or injured. In the weeks just prior to our trip, very cold conditions dominated Hood and we took the opportunity to test our gear and spend some time at elevation.

The morning of our second day in Mexico, we took a colectivo up the foothills to the trailhead of La Malinche (14,636 feet). Fresh from sea level, we expected oxygen-deprivation symptoms. Many locals in jeans and street shoes passed us on the wide trail. Slow and steady took on new meaning. We surpassed the elevation of Mt. Adams and reached our new high point. Early afternoon clouds gave way enough for us to see the irregular lines of fields and roads far below, and we caught brief, ghostly views of a snow capped giant far off in the east—our first views of Pico de Orizaba. Nearing the top, we both experienced strong headaches and Krista felt some nausea. Interestingly, on the way down, these symptoms got worse before they got better.

We’d been guzzling water ever since we left the States. To stay hydrated, we wistfully passed up cervezas and even— somewhat ruefully—coffee. We had also planned to avoid street food and potential intestinal issues until after the climb.

However, this ended up taking more willpower than we could sustain. Out of the trail dust of La Malinche appeared a covered table and chairs and a family cooking tacos from their truck bed. Tender, seared carnitas with fresh tortillas and tamarindo sodas soon filled our bellies.

“And yes please, cilantro and onion would be perfect!”

From left: Krista on La Malinche with feral mountain dog. Photo: Aaron Nelson. Krista on the slow and steady trail up La Malinche. Photo: Aaron Nelson. Orizaba Krista and Aaron Summit. Photo: Pierre Grimard.

As we heaved our bags from under the bus in Tlachichuca—the small town which would be our jumping off point for Orizaba—a boy of about ten grabbed the two biggest and heaviest and called out, “Escaladores? Servimont?” He launched away before the word “Sí” had left our mouths. His arms were ripped and even with the big roller suitcase and 70 liter duffel he was fast! Within a couple minutes we were ringing the bell at the 200-yearold soap factory turned climber’s hostel.

We tipped the superhuman kid well and entered a different world.

Hearing other people speak English was strange. Gringos wandered about within the walls of the beautiful old factory, examining their yard-sales of clothes, food, and gear.

Soon, Dr. Reyes, a third generation climber, and grandson of the factory’s builder, welcomed us warmly and proudly showed us around his hostel. We organized our own gear, ate a fantastic meal, got to know our fellow climbers, and hit the sack early.

Meanwhile, the infamous local rooster did his best to make sure none of us had an excess of sleep.

Packed into Servimont’s trusty 4x4, rocking and lurching, we all laughed and shared the growing anticipation. Each time we glimpsed the looming volcano, it was bigger and more breathtaking. It was also quite steep and shiny! It looked like there was a lot of ice up there. We could now see the north side and our route. Now it was the climb, rather than the travel, that had become our source of intimidation. At the end of the road we

came to the Piedra Grande refuge at 13,900 feet. Setting up camp was slow, punctuated by head rushes and breathlessness. We managed to do a small stroll up 700 feet or so. A borrowed pulse oximeter showed readings of 79-84% oxygen saturation. As an RN, Krista exclaimed her professional opinion: “Gross!” The shadows fell and the temperature dropped, and we settled into our new home for the next four nights.

Picking our way through the Labyrinth late the next morning, we took our time, for acclimating and finding the route through the moderately steep ice gullies was our only task for the day. Although there were patches of water ice, mostly the footing was on secure snice and not as scary as it had looked from the truck. Every step was another personal altitude record. We felt we were acclimatizing well, and it was comfortable and familiar to wear crampons and work our way slowly up. As we climbed, our confidence grew; we began allowing ourselves those little anticipatory sips of summit victory. By 16,300 feet, however, we stowed such forbidden thoughts, as Krista again had a sharp headache and neither of us felt generally “good.” We carefully made our way back down to camp, arriving just as the sun slid away.

The following day was a rest day and our summit bid would begin at midnight. We slept in, wrote in journals, drank herbal tea, and soaked in the views of Citlaltépetl, or “Star Mountain,” in Nahuatl. Aaron’s appetite had dropped off at altitude, but Krista didn’t seem to notice much of a change. Because she had experienced

altitude symptoms in the past, Krista planned on taking Diamox to hasten acclimatization. Around mid-day Krista realized she was getting sick with a cold and sore throat. She felt her energy level dial way down. Dampened optimism notwithstanding, she reassured herself that she’d climbed Hood before while sick and did what she could to rest.

We awoke and arose to clear skies, electric stars, and the light of the full moon around 11 p.m. Our packs were ready with all possible clothing layers since we’d been hearing consistent reports of serious cold.

We boiled water for our Nalgene bottles and, after a warm meal, we were off.

As happens on many climbs, we started out feeling ‘off ’ but felt better after muscles and minds warmed up and excitement took over. We made decent time up through the Labyrinth. Once we reached the foot of the Jamapa Glacier, a frigid breeze met us from the east. The cold edged its way in quickly.

We layered up as fast as we could, but hands were already cold enough to make those efforts difficult. We managed to get down a few calories, but all of our food was frozen and we tucked some chews and gels into our inner layers for later. Above all, we wanted to keep moving to generate heat.

The glacier sloped gradually upward, getting steepest just below the crater rim.

Rest-stepping on firm snice, we stamped our feet often to keep sensation. The glacier seemed to go on forever. Though

continued on next page MARCH 2017 31

Pico De Orizaba, continued from previous page we anticipated the sunrise, and took notice of its beauty, we knew we were on the northwest side of the mountain and thus it would be hours before we received direct light. We fought to find a balance between moving fast enough to generate warmth and not aggravating the altitude effects of lightheadedness, shortness of breath, and fatigue. In general, we failed to strike that balance.

Wearing all of our layers, including shells, we were still quite cold. Perhaps it was the altitude, certainly it was the wind chill and temperature (which froze even the food in our inner layers), but we didn’t eat nearly enough. We made a beginner’s mistake in not making it happen. We would have been warmer if we had. Instead, we halfheartedly nibbled and stubbornly moved onward. Live and learn.

Above 17,500 feet, we found ourselves following steps through sugar snow. The steps broke easily, but for the most part, we were able to securely self-belay. Our arc to the crater rim and then to the summit took us far west and we crossed above a

cliff 2,000 feet below on a slope of about 40 degrees.

Finally we reached a small scree and pumice band just below the summit. The views of Mexico were surreal in their scale and beauty. Pico de Orizaba is the 7th most prominent peak in the world and the 3rd highest in North America. Almost 10,000 feet below, a haphazard geometry is traced over the flatlands. La Malinche can be seen, as well as Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl, with its banner of wafting smoke. Walking the last few meters up to the summit, a great crater opened before us, and the view stretched beyond to the Gulf of Mexico. We hugged, took too few pictures, and headed down out of the wind.

Two days later, in Mexico City, we feasted on street tacos that were so good that every other taco either of us has ever had, whether before or after, shall pale in comparison. Sipping fine tequila, we felt that peaceful contentment that climbers occasionally find after a trip to the mountains. We also felt gratitude to the Mexican people, for their openness

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32 MAZAMAS

and generosity, and for the many small moments of helpfulness and kindness.

At a time when it would be easy to turn a cold shoulder to Americans, it was our experience that, instead, the Mexican people graced us with the benefit of the doubt. Further, people like Miguel the taxista and Dr. Reyes took the effort to respectfully push discussions to a deeper level, allowing us to start to fill in the many gaps in our understanding of Mexico and its people.

Even as we sipped our tequilas and reflected on the past week, our conversation drifted—back to the mountains. We already missed Mexico and we hadn't even left! Next time we’ll also climb Izta, Nevado Toluca, Colima… Next time we’ll spend more time in the city, and in the villages; next time we’ll eat more tacos.

Author Bio: Krista Curtis and Aaron Nelson have been climbing for almost three years and finished ICS in 2016. They spend as much time as they can in the mountains and feel like billionaires when they are there.

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members: ...................................................... 113 Amit Abraham—South Sister Ahmed Aissi—Mt. St. Helens Juan Albaitero— Popocatepetl Ona Aliaj—South Sister Alana Armstrong—Mt. St. Helens Craig Armstrong—Mt. St. Helens Josiah Ball—South Sister Nathan Banfi—Mt. Hood Megan Banker—Mt. St. Helens Frank Barsotti—Mt. Adams Linda Beale—Mt. St. Helens Andrew Behr—Mt. Adams Christabel Behr—Mt. Adams Amy Blumenberg—Mt. Rainier Colby Brooks _ Mt. St. Helens Stephanie Brown—Mt. St. Helens Matt Burri—Mt. Adams George Callaway—Mt. Elbrus Joe Camizzi—Mt. St. Helens Elizabeth Camp—South sister Erin Carver—South Sister Alyssa Chee—South Sister Austin Corso—Salcantay Jorge Cortes—South Sister Fred Dalsager—Mt. Shasta Alexander Danielson—Mt. Thielsen Annette d’Autremont—Mt. St. Helens Trenton Dean—Mt. Baker Richard Dotz—Thompson Peak Caitlin Doughty—Mt. Adams Kathrin Dragich—South Sister Daniel Eldrenkamp—Mt. Adams Joanne Emerson—Flattop Mountain Brit Forbes—Mt. Hood Betsy Gascon—South Sister Carl Gibson—South Sister Richard Hall—Mt. Shasta Richard Haskell—Mt. Adams Brent Hieggelke—Mt. Adams

Angie Holliday—South Sister Sarah Holm—Mt. Adams Britt Hoover—Mt. Adams Cassie Hopkins—Mt. Adams Dylan Horton—Mt. Adams Laura House—Mt. Hood Megan Houston—South Sister Brandon Jarvis—Mt. Adams Belinda Judelman—Mt. Adams Cesia Kearns—Mt. St. Helens Julie Kentosh—Mt. St. Helens Supriya Khan—Mt. St. Helens Sarah Knight—Middle sister Paul Konkola—Mt. Rainier Melinda Krantz—Mt. St. Helens David Kurushima—South Sister Joseph Leitschuh—South Sister Lisa Lesko—Mt. St. Helens Catherine Lofts—Mt. St. Helens Shannon Lucas—South Sister Maya Martinez—South Sister Marti McCleskey—Mt. Adams Michelle McConnell—Mt. Hood Katy McInally—South Sister Neil McLain—Mt. Kilimanjaro Mike Miller—Mt. St. Helens Steve Mogentale—Mt. St. Helens Jacob Morris—Mt. St. Helens Pat Muri—Mt. Adams Dylan Murphy—South Sister David Nguyen—South Sister Jordan Nuss—Mt. Hood Zoe O’Toole—Mt. Hood Benjamin Perri—South Sister Jesse Peterson—Mt. Hood Brian Portera—Mt. Rainier Jill Reynolds—Old Snowy Allison Richey—Mt. St. Helens Christopher Roberts—Mt. St. Helens

Neha Satpute—South Sister Scott Schoenborn—Mt. Hood Ryan Shannon—Mt. St. Helens Aimee Shoemaker—Mt. Hilton Rebecca Silverman—Mt. St. Helens Luke Slater—South Sister Lynne Slanson—South Sister Henley Slepyan—Mt. Baker Timothy Smith—Little Annapurna Rachael Sorenson—Mt. Hood Christopher Stahl—Mt. Kilimanjaro John Stevenson—Mt. St. Helens Andrew Stewart—Mt. Baker Michelle Strahl—Mt. Kilimanjaro Kyle Strek—Mt. Adams Rebecca Sudduth—Mt. Baker Tyler Suderman—Mt. Hood Jeffrey Sullivan—Mt. Adams Ethan Swift—Mt. St. Helens Michael Swift—Mt. St. Helens Amelia Templeton—Mt. St. Helens Dana Terhune—Mt. Hood Daniel Terry—Mt. Hood Jonathan Thaher—Villarica Abbie Vandonge—Island Peak Srikanth Varadarajan—Stok Kangri Carly Verboort—Mt. Baker Samuel Walton—Mt. Adams Amberlie Wecks—Old Snowy Levi Wecks—Old Snowy Steve Wecks—Old Snowy Andrew Wendlandt—South Sister Robert Westberry—Mt. St. Helens Greg Wollner—South Sister Peace Young—Mt. St. Helens

Reinstatements: ....................................................... 47

James Allison (2004), Mimi Harmer-Cogswell (2001), Kalin Lee (2006), Lucas Levin (2011), Tara Middlewood (2013), Erik Tandberg (1998), Michael Tippie (2013)

Deceased: ..................................................................3

John Billington (1961), Frank Head (1957), Betty Parker (1949)

Total Membership: Jan. 2016—3,363; Jan. 2017—3,406 MARCH 2017 33

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AYM ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS OFFERS ACTIVITIES TARGETED TO THOSE IN THEIR 20S & 30S AND ANYONE YOUNG AT HEART MARCH 4–HIKE: OCEANSIDE BEACH AND KILCHIS POINT A perfect beach day—a beach stroll combined with a walk through Tillamook Bay wetlands. Expect views of offshore rocky crags and sandy beaches. We will walk toward Netards, and depending on the tide and surf we’ll likely back-track to Oceanside. From there we’ll get back in cars and drive to Kilchis Point on Tillamook Bay. If there is extra time, we may try to find the Rockaway Cedar which is a ridiculous 50 ft. in circumference. No trip to the area is complete without a stop at the Tillamook Cheese Factory for ice cream, so expect a side-trip. It’s the Oregon Coast in the winter so bring good rain gear and be prepared! If heavy surf or weather is not agreeable, we’ll hike elsewhere. Plan on a day-long event.

Experienced beach dogs following Mazama rules welcomed, but you’ll likely need to transport your pooch to the destination.

Reservation required with Sarah Miller

beforehand saanmi78@hotmail.com and the trip is capped at 12 hikers. Meet at Sunset Transit Center at 8:30 a.m. Hike is ~8 miles, minimal elevation. Drive: 150 miles roundtrip.

MARCH 25–HIKE: COTTONWOOD CANYON Join AYM to discover one of Oregon’s newest state parks, Cottonwood Canyon.

The scenery here is reminiscent of both the Deschutes River area and the rock formations around the John Day Fossil Beds, making it a “best of both worlds” and a real treat to explore! We will hike the Pinnacles Trail, a flat, easy stroll along the north side of the John Day River. The park is a long drive away, but the reward should be well worth it so please do not make any evening plans in Portland, and do plan to stop with the group for food and refreshments in Hood River on the way home. Reservation required with Reena Clements beforehand reenac@bu.edu.

Meet at Gateway Transit Center, NW corner at 7:45 a.m. Hike: 8.6 miles, Drive: 240 miles round-trip. Cost: $2 members/$3 nonmembers.

MARCH 29–PRESENTATION: SÁNDOR'S MAGIC HOUR TOUR OF OREGON, OR WHY SLEEPING IN IS OVERRATED AYM leader Sándor Lau gives a photographic tour of Oregon at that fleeting magic hour just after sunrise and just before sunset where Mother Nature shows off her best. He got up early to take these so you don't have to! After the show, we'll walk to refreshments at the Horsebrass Pub, 4534 SE Belmont St. 7 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Photo: Winter Weekend snowshoe trip to Tamanawas Falls led by Paul, Adonay, and Mike

AYM WINTER WEEKEND Adventurous Young Mazamas packed the house at Mazama Lodge in Government Camp for our annual Winter Weekend Jan. 27–29.

Our weekend of snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, sledding, board games, craft projects, and salsa dancing included 0 yeti incidents.

Intrepid AYMs explored Tamanawas Falls in icicle format, the high road up to Timberline Lodge, the wondrous creek crossings of the Yellowjacket Trail, the incline and views up to Tilly Jane Shelter, and Bennett Pass sans Terrible Traverse.

34 MAZAMAS

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Interested in Joining the Mazamas?

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The Mazamas works to create a vibrant mountaineering community through education, advocacy, cultural preservation, and shared experiences. The Mazamas is one of the oldest mountaineering organizations in the country, formed on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894.

We promotes responsible outdoor recreation and conservation values through outdoor education programs, youth outreach, and advocacy. Headquartered in Portland, Ore., the Mazamas has been working to represent and support everyone who loves to play in and protect the mountains of the Pacific Northwest for more than 120 years.

To join the Mazamas you must have summited a glaciated peak. Glaciated peaks are—you guessed it!—peaks that have a glacier on them. Examples of the most commonly summited glaciated peaks in our area include: Mt. Hood, South Sister, Mount St. Helens, and Old Snowy. You don't have to be an intrepid mountaineer to tackle this goal. A pair of sturdy hiking boots, a backpack, some trekking poles, a fit body, and some backcountry know how, will get you to the top of South Sister in the summer months without ever touching snow or leaving a trail! Better yet, we have a Hike to the Summit program that will help you achieve this goal.

We would love to have you join our ranks. Especially now, in this time of turmoil for public lands, the Mazamas is working hard on the advocacy front to ensure that our public lands stay public and that the voices of outdoor recreationists are heard.

In addition to knowing you are joining an organization that is working to ensure access to trailheads you frequent, to keep climbing areas open to climbers, and working actively to get the next generation of outdoors people connected to the outdoors through our youth outreach programs, there are also some great member benefits (see sidebar)!

Learn more about the Mazamas at mazamas.org.

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS

Stay Connected

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▶▶ Like us on Facebook: facebook.com/mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Follow us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag us in your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶▶ Subscribe to our blog: mazamas.blogspot.com ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/ mazamas. ▶▶ Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/MazamasAds for details.

Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership.

JOIN THE MAZAMAS TODAY! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the most active mountaineering organizations in the country: mazamas.org/join •

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DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings.

This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly.

DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms.

Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood.

The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers.

Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters.

Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY. MARCH 2017 35

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK A2 March 1 (Wed.) Lyle Cherry Orchard Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Let's take an early look at this classic area of the Gorge. Open vistas and some ancient cherry trees. 6.5 mi., 1,400 ft., drive 140 mi., MMC 8 a.m.

GH MU

and Quarry Wayne Lincoln 503-7580421. Cross-country ski from Hwy 26 down to and around Trillium Lake, Lower Ridge Road, Quarry and Mud Creek Ridge Road. Intermediate skills required. 7 mi., 400 ft., drive 110 mi., SnoPark, Gateway 8 a.m.

MU

HK B2 March 3 (Fri.) Forest Park– Maple Trail Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Covers all of the Maple Trail.

Along the Wildwood Trail between miles 13.5 to 12.75 are impressive old growth trees. Some within a few feet of the trail are up to six ft. in diameter. 8.5 mi., 980 ft., drive 25 mi., MMC 8 a.m. MU

HK B2 March 5 (Sun.) Wilson River—Forest Center to Keenig Creek Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

EXPLORATORY - We will start at the Forestry Center, hike along the Wilson River then duck into Ryan Creek canyon exiting at Keenig Creek campground. This will require a car shuttle. 10 mi., 1,500 ft., drive 120 mi., Gateway 8 a.m.

BP March 4 (Sat.) Winter Camping at Trillium Lake on Mt. Hood Regis Krug 503-704-6442 or regis_krug@ mentor.com. You must contact the leader to participate in this backpack. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Try out your winter backpacking and camping skills. We'll snowshoe through the woods down to the road and over to the campground on the east side of the lake, where we'll set up camp before snowshoeing around the lake. We'll get up early Sunday morning for sunrise photos if the weather permits before heading back to the cars.

NS March 4 (Sat.) Trillium Lake Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g.

1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a mod36 MAZAMAS

HK C2.5 March 5 (Sun.) Benson Plateau Dyanne Foster 503 2678937. Wilderness—Limit 12. Enjoy the beautiful Herman Creek then up to the cold Benson Plateau. Bring traction devices. Check with leader regarding weather closer to the time.

12.8 mi., 3,720 ft., drive 78 mi., TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. GH WO HK B2 March 8 (Wed.) Oxbow Loop Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Explore this close-in gem of a hike.

Features the lush forest along two great looping meanders of the Sandy River. There is a $5 per car parkerate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Awards.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Awards.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit tinyurl.com/mazhikesched for updates!

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS HIKING Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at tinyurl.com/mazaymactivities

STREET RAMBLES Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500– 1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m. entry fee. 8 mi., 600 ft., drive 45 mi., MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A2 March 10 (Fri.) Cape Horn Out and Back David Gast pdg17838@gmail.com. Come out for a wonderful hike in the gorge. This will be a dog friendly hike for wellbehaved dogs on leash. We will do the hike as an out and back to avoid the portion of the loop that is closed from Feb. 1–July 15 for the nesting Falcons. This hike can be very windy so be sure to bring a good raincoat and dress in layers. 7–9 mi., 1,300 ft., drive 32 mi., Fisher’s Landing Park and Ride in Vancouver 8:30 a.m.

(GH) MU HK A1.5 March 11 (Sat.) Catherine Creek-West Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Loop hike across western section of Catherine Creek complex. Grass widows and desert parsley. Views of river below.

No sign-up list, just show up. 7.0 mi., 1,200 ft., drive 126 mi., TH, Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A2 March 12 (Sun.) Lacamas Lake Trail Jim Selby 828-508-5094.

Great winter mid-day hike, need to be at Gateway by 10:45 so that we can leave by 11. Paved and gravel trail, usually lots of birds and, if Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft– Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people

we get any sun, nice views of Mt. Hood across the lake. If it rains just bring and umbrella, trail is great in the rain. Back to Gateway around 4:30 p.m. 7 mi., 100 ft., drive 30 mi., Gateway 11 a.m. MU HK A2 March 13 (Mon.) Sauvie Island–Lighthouse and Warrior Rock Joe Kellett fekjpk24@gmail. com. $10/day ODFW parking permit required at trailhead (but not at meeting point). Hike along the Columbia River to the Sauvie Island Lighthouse and then onto Warrior Rock and back. 7 mi, 0 ft., drive 15 mi. Sauvie Island Bridge Parking Lot 8 a.m.

HK B2.5 March 15 (Wed.) Banks Vernonia Trail–Manning to Buxton Tony Spiering 503-680-8112.

Hike on old railroad grade from Manning trailhead to Buxton Trestle.

Good all-weather hike. Back to town early. 8 mi., 450 ft., drive 30 mi., Target/185th 8 a.m. MU HK C2 March 18 (Sat.) Horsetail to Wahkeena Traverse (W) Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@ juno.com. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Here we go again on the annual traipse across the top of the Gorge.

No guarantee on conditions this per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

year. Leader will monitor conditions. Traction devices and poles never a bad idea. We'll start from Horsetail Falls and go up and over Franklin Ridge, then on to the Wahkeena watershed. Car shuttle. 12.2 mi., 3,300 ft., drive 63 mi., Gateway 7:30 a.m. WF AR WO SS A March 18 (Sat.) Trillium Lake–Off Trail Snowshoe David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Plan is to head down towards the lake by traveling off-trail down a small gully towards Summit Meadows. Once we reach the meadows, head south crossing the former air strip as we continue our trek to the lake. At the lake have lunch and then traverse around the lake and retrace our route back to the cars. Be prepared for winter conditions. No cotton clothes. Pace will be easy/moderate. Please contact leader via email to reserve a spot. 4.5 mi., 600 ft., drive 100 mi., SnoPark, Gateway 7:30 a.m. MH SS B March 18 (Sat.) Elk Meadows Snowshoe Loop Regis Krug 503704-6442 or regis_krug@mentor.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Late winter snowshoe up to Elk Meadows on Mt. Hood. Must be comfortable making winter creek crossings as we cross Newton Creek, which doesn't have a bridge. May require some off-trail snowshoeing. If it's raining, we'll do an alternate hike in the Gorge. 9 mi., 1,800 ft., drive 120 mi., SnoPark, Gateway 6:30 a.m. AR MH MU HK C2 March 19 (Sun.) Hardy–Hamilton Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail. com. RSVP required by March 18. Trailhead parking is free on Washington State Parks’ birthday. Ascend Hardy Ridge then re-ascend Hamilton Mountain on a loop hike. A lot of up and down, with stellar hiking and spectacular views. 11.4 mi., 3,080 ft., drive 72 mi., Gateway 7:30 a.m. AR GH MU HK A1.5 March 25 (Sat.) Catherine Creek Labyrinth Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Loop hike though meadows of Labyrinth and Coyote Wall. Views of river below. Multiple wildflower varieties. No sign-up, just show up. 7.0 mi., 1,200 ft., drive 126 mi., TH, Gateway 8 a.m.

March 26 (Sun.) Wahkeena to Devils Rest Kate Evans 503-635-6540. Water, woods and views on this wonderful Gorge hike. 7.2 mi., 2,400 ft., drive 44 mi., Gateway 8 a.m. WF GH HK B2.5 HK B2 March 29 (Wed.) Angel's Rest Variations Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Familiar destination, but a different way to get there. We will climb steeply to an area west of Angel's rest then work our way over to it. 7 mi., 2,000 ft., drive 45 mi., MMC 8 a.m. GH HK C2 March 31 (Fri.) Franklin Ridge–Multnomah Falls Loop Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Spring leg warmer. We will travel up Oneonta Creek past Triple Falls to the top of Franklin Ridge. Down the ridge with a brief stop at Waespe Point and end up at Multnomah Falls. Car Shuttle. 10.1 mi., 2,900 ft., drive 60 mi., MMC 8 a.m. AR

PERU TREKKING OFF THE BEATEN PATH. Very high, remote, scenic trekking in Peru. TWO treks offered this year: 11 days, from the Bosque de Piedras to near the Quelcaya icecap, to Pacchanta using part of our route from 2016, much at 16,000 feet plus; and 8 days, from Chua Chua to Ccoylloriti and Tinqui, not quite as high. October 2017. Contact climb leader Ellen Gradison: ellengradison@gmail.com for more info.

503.684.9698

MARCH 2017 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL The February Mazama Executive Council (EC) meeting took place at 3 p.m., on Tuesday, February 21. During the member comment period Lis Cooper, Joan Zuber, Bertie August, and Doug Couch all spoke. They expressed concern over two issues. First they believe the contribution expectation in the EC roles and responsibilities document will discourage younger members from seeking election to council. Second they expressed concern that the 3 p.m. meeting time may discourage working members from attending meetings.

President Hooker thanked them for their thoughts. He noted the addition of a second member comment period at 5:30 p.m. for the current and future meetings. He asked for further discussion on the comments to be added to the March EC meeting agenda.

In the membership report, Secretary John Rettig reported that the membership now stands at 3,406. Secretary Rettig reported a near record number of 113 new members in January. This was offset by a record number of 511 drops in December. Currently the organization is up 43 members compared to this time last year. Treasurer Jon Jurevic reported on the 1st quarter financials, with revenue in the first quarter coming in at $22,000 better than budget and total expenses were under budget, creating a 1st quarter gain of roughly $47,000. Mazamas total net assets as of Dec. 31, 2016 are $1,435,000.

In his Executive Director’s report, Lee Davis mentioned several upcoming events, including the start of the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) on March 7, the council retreat on May 2, and the Volunteer recognition event on May 12. He followed with a brief update on the Mazama Mountaineering Center, including the recent flooding and ongoing work to install solar panels on the roof. Davis then reported on advocacy work. Efforts include the Mazamas joining the Outdoor Alliance; recent testimony in Salem in support of Oregon Parks and Recreation Department’s budget; and work on the concept of creating a state office of recreation. Davis concluded with a request for council to collaborate with staff and the Conservation Committee to refine and clarify the Mazamas policy agenda.

Council member Laura Pigion then introduced the Smith Rock Ranch project 38 MAZAMAS

Upcoming Board Meeting Dates: March 21, April 18, May 16; All meetings begin at 3 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a public commente period immediately following the start of the meeting at 3 p.m. and another one at 5:30 p.m.

team. Pigion had asked the team to provide a high-level briefing on the project to benefit the three new council members, who hadn’t been present for previous briefings. The Mazamas Foundation treasurer was present and reported that they are planning to vote at their next meeting on whether to purchase the property. The project team is currently working through a conditional use permit review process with Deschutes County, which will determine if it is possible to develop the property with camping and overnight lodging. The question and decision around whether to develop the property, run it as a vacation rental, or flip the property is the next step in the plan.

Member input will be sought before this decision is made in late summer.

President Hooker then initiated a discussion about the use and accounting of temporarily restricted donor funds, and shared a letter from our CPA with recommendations. Secretary Rettig shared that it had been the custom of the Mazamas to use funds drawn from restricted accounts to supplement general funds for conservation and expedition committee activities, among others. Treasurer Jurevic stated that it is standard financial practice to use restricted funds for the purpose under which they were donated before using general funds and Marty Scott concurred.

The accounting discussion then ended and the Executive Director shared that the Mazamas general fund is supporting conservation activities at the Mazamas now more than at any time in the history of the organization.

Continuing in the realm of finances, Treasurer Jurevic introduced a motion regarding the effective date of new policies.

To this point, old policies are kept in place even when a new policy is approved by the council and awaiting review by the Governing Documents Committee. His motion was to have new policies take effect immediately and to supercede older policy. The motion was seconded. During the discussion the question of whether to apply the change to just the financial policy or all policies was raised. Secretary Rettig proposed an amendment to apply the change to just the financial policy. A vote on the amended motion failed. A second vote on the original motion carried.

Davis then introduced Claire Nelson, the new Youth & Outreach Program Manager.

Nelson shared her professional background and the projects and areas where she will focus her energies. She concluded her remarks with a short update on the Mazama Mountain Science School. Justin Rotherham, Education & Activities Program Manager then gave a progress report to the council.

Of interest were ongoing efforts to manage the recent flooding in the MMC and the recent turnover of the leadership of the BCEP program. BCEP filled very quickly this year and with summer registration will likely engage more than 300 students this year.

Board Member Marty Scott followed with a summary of the findings from the recently concluded strategic plan listening sessions held at the MMC. Information from the meetings, as well as members survey input, will help guide the next round of strategic planning. Issues raised include the status and future of renovations to Mazama Lodge, leadership development efforts, support for youth and family programs, and the use of technology to engage younger members.

Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications, was on hand to give an in-person update to her written report.

Bradham said that the request for proposal (RFP) for the upcoming membership survey had gone out to six marketing firms. Three companies submitted proposals, all with costs above budget. A second revised RFP will go out shortly to survey firms with the hope of finding a more affordable option.

The council meeting ended with a short update from Vice President Chris Kruell on the status of discussions on clarifying the Mazama mission and vision statements. The council also received a request by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager, to add the term cultural preservation to the mission statement. Kruell will be presenting draft statement revisions for consideration at the March council meeting. President Hooker adjourned the public portion of the meeting, and the council moved into executive session.

Mazama members all have access to full Executive Council minutes. Go to: mazamas. org, login, go to the Members section and click on Executive Council Reports. Please note: Full minutes are available on a one-month delay due to the approval process.

MARCH 2017 39

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