2018 August Mazama Magazine

August 2018 Vol. 100 | No. 8

Bulletin

#vanlife The Nature Fix 2018–19 course schedule ICS Spouse Survival Guide

CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd. Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon LEE DAVIS Executive Director lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM Marketing & Communications Director sarah@mazamas.org ERICA STOCK Development Director ericastock@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR Stewardship & Advocacy Manager adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@mazamas.org

FEATURES Mazama Trail Work Annual Work Party, p. 6 Mazama 2018–19 Course Schedule, p. 10

CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Book Review: The Nature Fix, p. 18

JOHN BARKHAUSEN Education & Activities Program Coordinator johnbarkhausen@mazamas.org

ICS Spouse Survival Guide, p. 20

RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator reneefitzpatrick@mazamas.org MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@mazamas.org JUSTIN ROTHERHAM Education & Activities Program Manager justinrotherham@mazamas.org KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org

#vanlife, p. 30 2018 Voter Guide, p. 32 MONTHLY CONTENT Upcoming Events & Activities, p. 4 Outings, p. 4 Successful Climbers, p. 7 Mazama Library Notes, p. 8 Membership Report, p. 23 Classics, p. 24 Mazama Lodge, p. 25 Trail Trips, p. 26 AYM, p. 28 Executive Council, p. 38

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Editor: Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Reymond Drew, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, and Katie Polanshek (publications@mazamas.org)

ADVERTISER INDEX CBD Revolution, p. 19 Green Trails, p. 39 Embark Explorations Co., 28 Next Adventure, p. 17 Montbell, p. 2 The Mountain Shop, p. 9 Mystery Ranch, p. 29 OMC, p. 15 Rab, p. 22 Ravensview Capital Management, p. 19 Yatvin Computer Consultants, p. 15 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/MazamaAdvertising

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Adver-

tising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor.

All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Above: A team of Mazamas on Goat Island Mountain, from left: Michael Hortsch, Kirsten Jacobson, Darren Ferris, Sandor Lau (assistant), Linda Mark (leader), and Judith Baker. Photo: Jeff Tolentino. Cover: Kincaid Murray on the north side of Pinnacle Peak looking towards Mt. Rainier. Photo: Ben Luedtke

AUGUST 2018 3

UPCOMING EVENTS & ACTIVITIES SANDOR’S MAGIC HOUR TOUR OF THE SUNSHINE STATES

AUG. 5, 6 P.M. AT MAZAMA LODGE

Recovering writer and filmmaker Sándor Lau relapses again with a photo show of his favorite magic hour shots of the sunshine states: California, Arizona, Nevada, and Hawaii. Show features shots and stories of adventures to Yosemite, Grand Canyon, Mt. Shasta, Mt. Whitney, Red Rock Canyon, Picacho Peak, Camelback Mountain, and Mt. Haleakala, all shot at the golden hour just before sunset and just after sunrise. Calendars and framed prints will be available with all profits going to Mazamas.

STEWARDSHIP ACTIVITIES

AUGUST 6, 7, 8, 9 AT ZIGZAG MOUNTAIN

The Mazamas, in partnership with the National Wilderness Stewardship Alliance and the U.S. Forest Service, is coordinating trail stewardship on wilderness area trails on the Mt. Hood National Forest. Work will be done through the end of 2018 in coordination with key nonprofit partners and will focus on high-elevation wilderness trails in Mt. Hood National Forest including the Mazama Trail, the Yocum Ridge Trail, Zig Zag Mountain, Badger Creek, and possibly Pine Creek and Mud Springs areas if resources and time allow.

Go to beta.mazamas.org/ stewardshipopportunities to sign up!

4 MAZAMAS

UN-CLIMB NIGHT

AUG. 6, 6–9 P.M. AT THE MMC

This event is hosted by Wild Diversity Wild Diversity is a project that elevates people of color & the queer community in the outdoors. Wild Diversity offers resources to queer, minority and low income youth. Wild Diversity provides a safe and welcoming space for our community to explore outdoor adventures in the Pacific Northwest and beyond.

As a part of the POC or LGBTQ communities, we invite you to un-learn everything you have experience with the climbing culture and be a part of building a community centered around you. Let’s create something new, foster an environment of learning and climb! ▶▶ Cost: Sliding Scale $10 NOTAFLOF ▶▶ What is provided: Harness, shoes and climbing equipment. ▶▶ What You’ll Need to Bring: Any personal gear you prefer.

Register at: tinyurl.com/unclimbnight

MAZAMA LODGE FALL WORK PARTY

SEPT. 3, 10 A.M.–3 P.M. AT MAZAMA LODGE

Join us this Labor Day at the Mazama Lodge for the annual Fall Work Party! We will be working from 10 AM to 3 PM to ready the Lodge for the winter season. All volunteers will receive a complimentary lunch.

Due to renovations taking place at the Lodge beginning in September, this year’s work day is bit earlier than usual. Work Party volunteers are welcome to spend the night of Labor Day at the Lodge, but we are sold out on the night of Sept. 2 for Round the Mountain 2018.

ROUND THE MOUNTAIN

FRI., AUG. 31–MON., SEPT. 3 AT MAZAMA LODGE

Each year, the Mazamas celebrate their love of Mt. Hood with a 3-day hike around the Timberline Trail. Join us as we set out from our base camp at Mazama Lodge each day for a 13 to 14-mile adventure.

We carry only day packs because each night we return to the lodge for great food, hot showers, a cozy bunk, and stories from your day on the trail.

Your adventure includes all meals and dorm lodging. Shuttle vans will transport you from our meeting place in Portland to Mazama Lodge, as well as to/from the trailhead each day.

Details and registration at beta.mazamas.org/RTM

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS RETURN!

OCTOBER 17

The Mazamas offers a robust Evening Travel Program from mid-October through April every year at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center and at Mazama Lodge in the summer. You’ll virtually travel to every corner of the globe as our dynamic speakers immerse you in their experience through photos, video, and great storytelling.

Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged.

Look for the upcoming schedule in next month’s Bulletin or go to beta. mazamas.org/eveningtravelprograms

ICS APPLICATION CLOSES: AUG. 6 CLASS BEGINS: AUG. 28

PORTLAND ALPINE FEST DATES: TUESDAY, NOV. 13–SUNDAY, NOV. 18 TICKETS GO ON SALE: SEPT. 15

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB: SMITH ROCK CRAGGIN’ CLASSIC

September 14–16 at Smith Rock State Park

Home, sweet home. Join us at Smith Rock State Park this September for this annual climbing event featuring films, slideshows, clinics, games, community and local stewardship and conservation projects ... all in celebration of the Pacific Northwest’s climbing and climbers! Register at americanalpineclub.org/smith-rock-cc. Questions? Contact Sarah Wolfe, Event Organizer, at swolfe@americanalpineclub.org.

MAZAMA OUTINGS

More information and applications available at tinyurl.com/maz-outings

TRINITY ALPS HIGH ROUTE TREK: SEP. 8–14 Alternates Only. Join us as we hike a large portion of northern California’s Trinity Alps High Route. This ~35-mile alpine trek circumnavigates the Canyon Creek drainage and includes the summits of up to four named peaks in the Trinity Alps Wilderness.

The six to eight participants will need to be in good physical condition and have experience in at least one 50-mile (or greater) trek. We will be traveling light and fast, up to 10 miles per day with daily elevation gains varying from near zero to almost 5,000 feet. A $100 deposit will be required upon acceptance. Contact the leader Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) or assistant Brooke Weeber (bweeber@gmail.com) for more information.

WRITERS, EDITORS, AND PROOFREADERS ... OH MY! Do you have a passion for the written word? Are you at your happiest when you are wielding a red pen? Are you interested in sharing tales of Mazama adventures through Mazama publications, both print and web? Then we want you! The Publications team has a variety of roles available, from monthly content editors and proofreaders, to features writers and project managers. We’d love to welcome you to our team. Interested? Email publications@mazamas.org

VOLUNTEER APPRECIATION NIGHT

OCT. 15 & JAN. 18, 2019 6:30–8:30 P.M. AT THE MMC

Are you a Mazama volunteer? Well, then we want to take time out to appreciate YOU! Our new Volunteer Appreciation Nights are an opportunity to socialize with your fellow volunteers, meet people who volunteer in different areas of the Mazamas, play games, win prizes, offer shout-outs to your fellow volunteers, and get updates on what is happening at the Mazamas. Food and drinks are provided.

If you have pictures or quotes you would like to share with your fellow attendees, please send them to sarah@mazamas.org prior to the events.

Get details and rsvp at beta.mazamas.orf/ volunteerappreciation

AUGUST 2018 5

Mazama Trail Stewardship Series

MAZAMA TRAIL ANNUAL WORK PARTY

by Patrick Blanchard The Mazamas don’t just climb high, but work high too!

Our annual work party on the Mazama Trail was June 28–30, led by Rick Pope, long time volunteer trail steward, and Patrick Blanchard, our newly acquired Trail Stewardship Coordinator. Major accomplishments included cross cutting 55 downed trees that were across the trail, raking approximately 20 drainage channels, and repairing tread along 3.8 miles of trail. Carrying all of the equipment from the trailhead to the top of the trail (2,000 feet of elevation gain) and back down again each day was quite an impressive feat. In total, 40 volunteers came out and dedicated 228 hours over the course of three days.

All of this hard work wouldn’t have been possible without our strong core of volunteers and the leadership of the Trail Stewardship team. A big thanks to each one of you and your effort towards increasing trail accessibility in the Mt. Hood National Forest. A special thanks to Rick Pope for being an exceptionally wonderful and knowledgeable instructor. Rick made these three days engaging, inspirational, and fun!

If you want more information on getting involved with Mazama Trail Stewardship, there will be ore events coming your way. If you just can’t wait, contact Patrick Blanchard at patrickblanchard@mazamas.org to start becoming an expert trail tender.

Get details on upcoming stewardship activities and sign up at beta.mazamas.org/stewardshipopportunities.

6 MAZAMAS

2018 RESEARCH GRANTS

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

C

limb season is well underway! This is our first climbing season with our new online application system and so far the process has gone relatively smoothly.

Thanks to all of our climb leaders and assistants for leading 175 climbers to a mountain summit from June 16–July 18!

2018 CURRENT CLIMBING STATS Successful Climbers: 459 Unique Climbers: 363 Unique Leaders & Assistants: 88 Different Routes: 40 Successful Climbs: 73 Canceled Climbs: 30 Total Climbs Schedule: 220 Routes with the Highest Number of Successful Climbs Mt. Hood South Side: 10 Unicorn Peak: 8

June 16, Eldorado Peak, East Ridge. Leader: Jeffrey T Welter, Asst. Lauren Mason. Jeff DeRonde, Anne Harris, Joe Kaufman, Jessica L. Minifie, Andy Phan, Rachael L. Power

July 1, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Steve A Warner, Asst. Andy Nuttbrock. Kirsten Auble, Aaron M Bailey, Lacey Jones, Megan Lennox, Roger Marcus, Stephanie Nelson, Leilani S. Speer

June 22, Little Tahoma Solstice Celebration.

Leader: Daniel J Mick, Asst. Justin Colquhoun. Clinton Carpenter, Amine M. Chater, Dan A Codorean, Karen De Vera, Linda S Musil, Marc Rouleau, Zhan Shi

July 1, Mt. Wow, SW Ridge. Leader: Michael P Levis, Asst. Walter Keutel. Lindsey Addison, Jeremiah Biddle, Minah DeAinza, Sarah L. Johnson, Noelle Price, Megan E Skwirz

June 23, Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge. Leader: Lynne Pedersen, Asst. Michael P Levis.

Shannon Leahy, Linda H. Man, Eugene V. Mayevskiy, Karen Vernier, Brad S Wood

July 5, Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Route. Leader: Jeffrey T Welter, Asst. Laura B Guderyahn. Aaron M Bailey, Chaitanya Sathe, Mark S Stave

June 23, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Shane M Harlson, Asst. Taylor M. Courier. Amit Abraham, Alyssa (Maka) Chee, Aimee Diane Filimoehala, Carl Gibson, Nathan Kaul, Stephanie Nelson, Katherine Peterson, Katie Polanshek, Tom Shi, Eileen Sterlock June 24, Castle-Pinnacle, Standard. Leader: Chris Kruell, Asst. Christine Yankel. Grant Barba, Caroline Czajkowski, Ben Dair Rothfuss, Debbie G. Dwelle, Lindsey V. Garner, Katy S. Hagert, Stephen Lee Wilson, Logan Young June 24, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Leader: John Meckel, Asst. Larry R. Buzan. Scott Auble, Jeremiah Biddle, Toby Contreras, Liz A. Crowe, Anna Dearman, James Robert Dearman, Blair A. Grimmer, Robert E Sinnott, Christine Linda Troy, June 24, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Leader: Joe Petsche, Asst. Larry R. Buzan. Scott Auble, Jeremiah Biddle, Toby Contreras, Liz A. Crowe, Anna Dearman, James Robert Dearman, Blair A. Grimmer, Robert E Sinnott, Christine Linda Troy, June 24, Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek. Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Asst. Sándor Lau. Tom G Bode, Suvi Chisholm, Julie L. Kentosh, Kevin D Marold, Jessica L. Minifie, Courtney Rust, Leilani S. Speer, Jessica Zahnow June 24, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: John Godino, Asst. Nicole Gaines. Scott Campbell, Minah DeAinza, Lacey Jones, Monika Kawiak, Robert Kawiak, Lauren Sankovitch, Kelsey Shaw, Tempe Lynn Sikora June 25, Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge. Leader: Eric Brainich, Asst. Anna Buckley.

Carmel Y. Adrian, Anna Buckley, Anika Friesinger, Austin Rufener, Michael Steiner, Daniel N Zawistowski June 27, Mt. Wow, West Side Road. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst. Cathy Gaylord. Teresa L. Dalsager, Jeff Earll, Drew Gaylord June 28, Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek. Leader: Gary D Bishop, Asst. Scott C. Templeton. Pam J. Bishop, Anne M. Boeder, Brittany Eriksson, John McElravy, Kellie ODonnell June 30, Goat Island Mountain, Frying Pan Creek. Leader: Linda E. Mark, Asst. Sándor Lau. Judith Baker, Darren Ferris, Michael Hortsch, Kirsten Jacobson, Jeff Tolentino July 1, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Leader: Alex Fox, Asst. Justin Colquhoun. Erin M. Beyer, Ashly H Crockett, Ben Dair Rothfuss, Dyanne Foster, Hassan Ghozlan, Loren M. Guerriero, Matthew Lewis, Karly Osten, Brad J. Parker, Kevin Swearengin

July 7, Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier. Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst. John Barkhausen. Eric D. Risner, Andie Wright July 7, Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard.

Leader: Long Ong, Asst. Marc Milobinski. Chris Brox, Ben Dair Rothfuss, Darren Ferris, David J. Rosenbaum, Stephen Lee Wilson July 8, Mt. Adams, White Salmon Glacier.

Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst. Joe Powell. Adam David Haas, Anna Lio, Andrew P. Rose-Innes July 14, Mt. Buckner, SW Route. Leader: Linda E. Mark, Asst. Jonathan Myers. Judith Baker, Jean A Hillebrand, Sandee Myers, Mikel Rhodes, July 14, South Sister, Devil’s Lake . Leader: Terry G Brenneman, Asst. Kate Sinnitt Evans. Cole Ahnberg, Aardra B Athalye, Kate Sinnitt Evans, Sarah L. Johnson, Lindsay Love, Ian W McCluskey, Andrew Shaughnessy July 15, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Leader: Howie Davis, Asst. David A. Urbaniak.

Lacey Breton, Brian Clament, Sadie Forzley, Emily Joy, jeffrey leadford, Chris Reigeluth, Priyanka Shankaran, Eric C. Stern, Piyush Vivek Deshpande, Ngan K Vo July 15, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Greg A Scott, Asst. Matthew H. Bell. Ryan C. Abbott, Ashly Crockett, Brittany Eriksson, Matthew Gantz, Sarah L. Hargand, Alex Lockard, Kellie ODonnell, John Sterbis, John Van Voorhies, Hannah Wentz July 15, Mt.Adams, North Cleaver. Leader: Amy Brose, Asst. David J Aerne. David Helzer, Michelle L Martin July 16, Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst. Eric D. Risner. Stevan M Arychuk, Darren Ferris, Adam M. Russell, Andie Wright, July 16, Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge.

Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst. Adam M. Russell.

Stevan M Arychuk, Darren Ferris, Eric D. Risner, Andie Wright, July 17, Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst. Jonathan Myers. Craig Alvarez, Michelle McConnell, Sandee Myers, anibal jesus rocheta, Marc Rouleau, Rachel Smith, Brooke Winter July 18, Second Mother Mountain, Mowich Lake. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst. Jeff Earll. Teresa L. Dalsager, Jen Travers, Hannah Wentz

AUGUST 2018 7

Mazama LIBRARY Notes Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country. Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.

LIBRARY CIRCULATION MILESTONE A huge thank you to everyone who has used the Mazama Library this past year! Library patrons set a record in June 2018 when circulation topped out at 121 books, a record since detailed tracking began in 2014. Also the number of Mazama members using the library has increased by roughly 40 percent during that same period. Guidebooks for Oregon, Washington, and California continue to be the most popular titles in circulation. Books on Annie Smith Peck, Grandma Gatewood, and Ueli Steck were the most popular biographies.

NEW RELEASES AND ADDITIONS ▶▶ 50 Hikes with Kids: Oregon and Washington, by Wendy Gorton. Handcrafted for Northwest parents, educators, and caregivers that want to spark a love of nature, 50 Hikes with Kids highlights the most kid-friendly hikes in Oregon and Washington. These hikes are perfect for little legs — they are all under four miles and have an elevation gain of 900 feet of less. 917.9.G89 ▶▶ Take a Walk: Portland, by Brian Barker. This guide to walks includes more than 75 of the best routes and destinations, including Forest Park and Rooster Rock. Each route described includes distances and notes the steepness of the trail.

Highlighted are recommended walks for birders, art lovers, beachcombers, history buffs, gardeners, and those who seek disabled access. 917.95.B24 ▶▶ Hiking the Wonderland Trail: The Complete Guide to Mount Rainier’s Premier Trail, by Tami Asars. Washington State’s famed Wonderland Trail is a spectacular 93-mile route that circumnavigates Mount Rainier, challenging hikers with its strenuous 22,000 feet of cumulative elevation gain and loss.

917.97.As1

▶▶ 100 Classic Hikes: Northern California, 4th Edition, by John Soares. This guide covers hikes in the Bay Area, the Redwoods, the Sierra Nevada and the Russian Wilderness. 917.94.So1

DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ The Disappointment Cleaver (“D.C.”) route is the most popular way to Mount Rainier’s summit. ▶▶ Mount Rainier is named for Peter Rainier, a Rear Admiral in the British navy. The mountain was given his name by Captain George Vancouver during the exploration of the Pacific Northwest coast in 1792. ▶▶ Roughly 8,000 people attempt Mount Rainier’s summit each year, but only 50 percent actually make it. ▶▶ Mount Hood is only 112 feet taller than Little Tahoma on Mount Rainier’s flank.

BOOKS FOR WATERFALL LOVERS: ▶▶ Curious Gorge: An exploring, adventuring & hiking Guide, 917.95.C77 ▶▶ Waterfall Lover’s Guide Pacific Northwest, 917.95.P72 ▶▶ Hiking waterfalls in Oregon: a guide to the state’s best waterfall hikes, 917.95.Sa9

Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at beta.mazamas.org/library 8 MAZAMAS

THE MAZAMA LIBRARY NEEDS SUPPORT—FROM YOU! Do you or someone you know have vintage mountaineering gear that is looking for a home? Don’t give it to Goodwill, donate it to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections! We are always on the lookout for wood handle ice axes, early climbing gear, vintage catalogs, turn of the century photographs, early mountaineering books, and more. Please contact library manager Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to discuss potential donations. We apologize, but we cannot accept any Mazama Annuals published after 1925 or National Geographic magazines.

Please consider a financial contribution to support the Mazama Library, a nationally recognized collection and one of the few remaining mountaineering libraries in the United States. Your financial donation will help support our full-time librarian, acquire rare mountaineering books and historic photographs, and maintain our valuable archives and historic objects collections. Thank you for your support.

Are you ready to support the Mazama Library? Go to beta.mazamas.org/donate and select Library & Historical Collections.

AUGUST 2018 9

2018–19

MAZAMA COURSE SCHEDULE

Left: Climber on Unicorn Peak in the Tatoosh Ranger (Washington). Photo: Vaqas Malik.

T

raining people to recreate in the mountains while managing risk is central to the Mazamas mission. Our educational programs began with the Basic Climbing Education Program more than 75 years ago. Since then we have added intermediate and advanced climbing classes, skiing and first aid courses, and most recently canyoneering.

If you have been looking at the mountains and dreaming of achieving a mountain summit or scaling a rock walk, look no further!

You can find all of our educational programs on our website at beta.mazamas.org/calendar/ education/

Upcoming 2018–19 Advanced Rock Basic Climbing Education Program Basic Rock Skills Canyoneering CPR Crevasse Rescue Intermediate Climbing School Mountaineering First Aid Mountaineering First Aid Recert Nordic Ski Mountaineering More courses may be added throughout the year.

Please check our website regularly for full details.

10 MAZAMAS

CLIMBING COURSES

A

t the Mazamas you can get your start in Mountaineering with our Basic Climbing Education Program or Families Mountaineering 101, or take your skills to the next level through our Intermediate and Advanced programs.

These next pages provide you an overview of our most popular courses.

Get details: beta.mazamas.org/ climbingseries.

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM (BCEP)

FAMILIES MOUNTAINEERING 101 (FM101)

Class Dates: March 5, 2019–April 16, 2019

Class Dates: Aug. 6, 2018–Jan 27, 2019

Application Open Date: Feb. 1, 2019 at 9 a.m.

Application Open Date: June 5, 2018 at 9 a.m.

Application Close Date: Until maximum reached

Application Close Date: Aug. 3, 2018

Info Night: Jan. 31, 2019

Info Night: June 6, 2018

Prerequisites: None

Prerequisites: 3rd grade or older (younger students considered on a case by case basis)

Badges Earned: Basic Rock, Basic Snow, Course: BCEP

Badges Earned: Basic Rock, Basic Snow, Course: FM101 Have you wanted to climb our nearby mountains but don’t know how to get started? Hood, St. Helens, Adams? Maybe others? The Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is for you! BCEP teaches the skills needed to climb snow covered peaks and outdoor rock—and introduces you to other people who like to climb!

The eight-week class includes weekly lectures and team breakout sessions, field sessions, and conditioning hikes.

The field sessions provide practical exposure to basic rock climbing and snow travel. Field sessions may include overnight camping, a stay at the Mazama Lodge, or an “alpine” (nighttime) start. You will learn and practice the basic technical skills needed to climb a glaciated peak as a climb team member.

This is our most popular class each year so mark your calendars for Info Night and the registration open date so you don’t miss out! beta.mazamas.org/bcep

Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) trains adult and youth climbers for entry-level mountaineering activities, including rock and snow climbing skills. This class is an opportunity to get your entire family involved with alpine activities and mountaineering objectives. FM101 is designed to support parents and their children in building a solid foundation of mountaineering skills.

Participants of the class will learn the skills required to be a competent member of Mazama “A” or “B” level climbs.

FM101 utilizes one-room schoolhouse style to accommodate kids and adults of all ages. The class will break out into smaller practice and field session groups based upon a number of considerations, including age.

Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) sessions are hands-on and interactive. There is a significant amount of field session time, including several camping trips, and a night at Mazama lodge.

Get more details at beta.mazamas.org/fm101.

Above right: Canyoneering in the Pacific Northwest. Photo: Karl Helser.

AUGUST 2018 11

ADVANCED ROCK (AR)

INTERMEDIATE CLIMBING SCHOOL (ICS)

Class Dates: Feb. 26–May 12, 2019

Class Dates: Aug. 28, 2018–May 7, 2019

Application Open Date: Dec. 1, 2018 at 9 a.m.

Application Open Date: July 15 at 9 a.m.

Application Close Date: Dec. 30, 2018

Application Close Date: Aug. 6

Skills Test: Jan. 10 & 11, 2019

Info Night: June 25

Prerequisites: Leading outside within the last year, lead card at a local gym, and more. See website.

Skills Test: Aug. 8, 13 & 15 Prerequisites: Minimum requirement it two rock and two snow climbs. See website for more details.

Badges Earned: Intermediate Rock, Intermediate Snow, Course: ICS, Accident Management, Avalanche Awareness, Crevasse Rescue Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) is an intensive, challenging, fun, and rewarding experience. At no other point in your climbing career are you likely to see your climbing skills advance more dramatically within a single, relatively short span of time.

ICS picks up where BCEP left off and teaches the skills necessary to be a strong assistant on advanced Mazama climbs, organize private climbs of your own, and for those who choose, take the next step into Climb Leader Development.

The course takes place over a period of 8 months and includes lectures, field sessions, and social activities.

Registration is closing soon! If you think you are ready to tackle ICS, check it out today! beta.mazamas.org/ics 12 MAZAMAS

Badges Earned: Advanced Rock, High Angle Rock Rescue, Multi-Pitch Techniques Course: AR The Mazama Advanced Rock (AR) Course provides high quality instruction and training to enable graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs on vertical rock. We teach the technical and mental skills that will prepare you for a wide range of climbing, from single-pitch cragging to multi-pitch and alpine rock routes.

The AR program is comprised of a series of lectures given by knowledgeable speakers with hands-on demos or exercises where appropriate. The lectures are supported by weekend field sessions, coordinated and taught by skilled, experienced climbers.

The Advanced Rock program offers you the opportunity to meet new and experienced rock climbers, as you learn about climbing areas and destinations.

Get detail: beta.mazamas.org/advancedrock

CANYONEERING

BASIC ROCK

Class Dates: May 30, 2019–Aug. 12, 2019*

2019 Class Dates: March 18, April 26, May 15, June 12

Application Open Date: March 15, 2019 at 9 a.m.

Registration Open Date: Jan. 1, Feb. 1, March 1, April 1

Application Close Date: April 15, 2019

Registration Close Date: March 17, April 25, May 14, June 11

Prerequisites: Mazamas Intermediate Climb School (ICS) or equivalent training/experience. Ability to build an anchor, setup rappel without supervision, as well as familiarity with belaying, rope management, wilderness navigation, first aid, and also be a competent swimmer.

A skills test may be required.

Prerequisites: Familiarity with basic rock skills

Badges Earned: Course: Canyoneering Canyoneering (or “canyoning”) is the sport of exploring canyons using a variety of techniques such as scrambling, climbing, rappelling, wading and swimming. The term is most often used to describe technical descents requiring ropes, harnesses and other specialized gear. Like climbs, canyons can vary widely in level of difficulty: ranging from the easy hike-through variety to the extremely technical.

Dry canyons are significantly easier in terms of rigging and preparation compared to those with flowing water. The more water, the more difficult the canyon.

Get details: beta.mazamas.org/canyoneering *dates are tentative; check calendar in October confirmed dates.

Badges Earned: Skill Builder: Basic Rock Do you need to brush up on your basic rock climbing skills such as knots, tying in, climbing commands, belaying, rappelling, prusiking, passing protection on a fixed line, and cleaning a top rope anchor? Join us on the instructional climbing walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. You do not need to be a Mazama member to register for these climbing clinics.

The Mazama Basic Rock Skills course takes place in one, 3-hour evening session at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. This course is generally offered once a month.

This course accepts up to 8 students per session and takes place in a group setting.

Get details: beta.mazamas.org/basicrock

AUGUST 2018 13

FIRST AID COURSES

I

n the mountains just about anything can happen, and we want to be prepared if and when it does.

At the Mazamas we have designed our first aid courses to specifically tackle the issues that we might face in the backcountry. If you are new to wilderness medicine, check out our Mountaineering First Aid course, a 30-hour program that is a combo of lecture/practical sessions. If you are first aid veteran with a current MFA or WFR certification, get back up to speed in our MFA recert course. We also have CPR courses to help keep you up to date on this important skill.

Get details: beta.mazamas.org/firstaid

MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID (MFA) Fall 2018 Session Class Dates: Oct. 16–Nov. 4, 2018 Registration Open Date: Sept. 1, 2018 at 9 a.m.

Registration Close Date: Sept. 17, 2018 Winter 2019 Session Class Dates: Feb. 7–March 4, 2019 Registration Open Date: Dec. 1, 2018 at 9 a.m.

Registration Close Date: Dec. 15, 2018 Prerequisites: CPR (must be completed by end of course) Badges Earned: First Aid Skills, Course: MFA The Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) course is designed to teach the first-aider how to apply first aid skills in the wilderness, perform advanced patient assessment, improvise equipment and cope with wilderness-specific conditions. It will introduce you to caring for people who become ill or injured far from definitive medical care. Emphasis is placed on long term patient care management and specific injury evaluation.

Classroom lectures and demonstrations are combined with realistic scenarios where mock patients will challenge you to integrate your learning. At the end of the course, you’ll have the knowledge, skills and ability to make sound decisions in emergency situations. Learning takes place both in the classroom and in outdoor settings regardless of weather conditions. Come prepared for wet, muddy, cold or hot environments.

MFA is a 30-hr scenario-based course; five evening lectures with mock scenarios, and a two-day weekend practicum.

Get details: beta.mazamas.org/mountaineeringfirstaid

MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID (MFA) RECERT Class Dates: Dec. 5 & 6, 2018 Registration Open Date: Nov. 1, 2018 Registration Close Date: Nov. 15, 2018 Prerequisites: Current MFA or WFR Badges Earned: Course: MFA This course is intended for Mazama climb leaders, leadership development candidates, and hike leaders who need to recertify their MFA requirement; if space is available other students will be considered. All participants must have a current MFA certification or a WFR certification. It is an 8-hour course over the course of two evening sessions that are a combination of lecture and hands-on practice.

Get details: beta.mazamas.org/mountaineeringfirstaid

OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY

PORTLAND, OR

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OMCGEAR.COM 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

CPR Class Dates: Sept. 19, Oct. 3 (ICS Only), Oct. 10 (ICS only), Nov. 17 (additional winter dates may be added) Registration Open Date: Ongoing Registration Close Date: Ongoing Prerequisites: None Badges Earned: CPR Adult CPR & AED through The American Heart Association (AHA). The course is a blend of on-line course work, and then practice/skills test CPR class at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center (MMC).

Under this system, students complete the videos at their own pace at home. Upon completion, students print a completion certificate and bring it with them to the skills practice and test session at the MMC. Students will then receive their cards (valid for 2-years) in the mail. Registrants who do not bring the certificate into class will not be able to participate or receive their AHA card.

Certification will also be recorded on an individual’s profile on the Mazama website with a CPR badge.

Get details: beta.mazamas.org/cpr

Yatvin Computer Consultants Experienced in troubleshooting, repair, and resolution of software and hardware problems.

Expertise in: • Mac & PC systems • Home & Business systems • New system installations • Wireless & wired networks • Printers & TV/AV/Cable • Software & hardware upgrades • Troubleshooting Competitive & Reasonable Rates Call or email for more info: 503-452-8648 | ycc@yatvincc.net AUGUST 2018 15

Class Dates: Dec. 3, 2018–Feb. 25, 2019

NORDIC: CLASSIC, TELEMARK & BACKCOUNTRY

Application Open Date: Oct. 1, 2018 at 9 a.m.

Class Dates: Jan. 5–Feb. 3, 2019*

Application Close Date: Oct. 30, 2018

Registration Open Date: Nov. 1, 2018 at 9 a.m.

Info Night: Sept. 20, 2018

Registration Close Date: Nov. 30, 2018

Prerequisites: Course is open to AT/randonee skiers, telemark skiers, and splitboarders

Prerequisites: Depends on course level chosen

SKI MOUNTAINEERING

Badges Earned: Ski Mountaineering (Skill Badge), Course: Ski Mountaineering The Mazama Ski Mountaineering Program is designed to teach you the skills, attitude, and awareness necessary to safely enjoy the many backcountry ski opportunities that exist in the Cascades and beyond. Ski mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest can span the spectrum from multi-day traverses, to skiing off the summits of local volcanoes, to just basking in the sunshine on the south side of Mt. Hood in July. Each tour has its special joys and dangers.

Our goal is to help you make a safe and confident transition from skiing advanced slopes at resorts to touring the off-piste environment of mountain wilderness. The focus of this course is on the skills necessary to ascend/descend non-technical intermediate level ski mountaineering climbs in the Northwest (terrain such as the basic routes of St. Helens, Mt. Adams, South Sister, and snow fields of Mt. Hood).

Get details: beta.mazamas.org/skimountaineering

16 MAZAMAS

Badges Earned: Depends on course level completed The Mazama Nordic Programs strive to meet you at your current skill level and take you to the next level. Whether you are an alpine skier who wants a new challenge, a ski mountaineer who wants to improve your skill set, or a nordic skier who is ready for the next level—this class is for you!

We remove impediments to progress by encouraging you to ski on high performance equipment—you should not have to fight with your skis in order to turn. Starting with groomed runs served by high speed lifts we aim to maximize your skiing time while progressing to more difficult terrain as your skills and interests grow.

The Mazama Nordic Ski School offers three types of crosscountry skiing classes: Classic, Telemark, and Backcountry. Ski Mountaineering is taught as a separate program.

The Nordic Ski School program consists of a mandatory evening Student “Meet Your Instructor” Orientation followed by 3 class sessions on consecutive weekends, either Saturday or Sunday, whichever day you registered for. Classes are typically held in late January/early February.

Get details: beta.mazamas.org/nordic *dates are tentative; check calendar in October confirmed dates.

CREVASSE RESCUE Class Dates: TBD; likely two to three options in May–June Registration Open Date: TBD Registration Close Date: TBD Prerequisites: Mazamas Basic Climbing Education Program or equivalent training/experience. Knots like figure eight follow through, butterfly, prusik, klemheist. Comfortable using crampons and ice axe.

Badges Earned: Crevasse Rescue Being able to rescue a partner from a fall into a crevasse is a basic skill that any mountaineer needs. This course is designed to introduce basic skills needed in rescuing a partner or yourself from a fall into a crevasse while traveling in a large team. This course will cover equipment used in crevasse rescues, self-rescue techniques, partner rescue techniques, problem solving when in a rescue situation, as well as crevasse avoidance and basic glacier travel.

This course is designed to introduce basic skills needed in rescuing a partner or yourself from a fall into a crevasse while traveling in a large team. This course will cover equipment used in crevasse rescues, self-rescue techniques, partner rescue techniques, problem solving techniques, and general glacier travel and crevasse avoidance strategies.

The Crevasse Rescue Skill Builder is for students who have a moderate amount of experience in the mountains, have taken basic rock and snow travel courses, and wish to become more competent members of Mazama A, B, and C level climbs.

Get details: beta.mazamas.org/crevasserescue

Book Review

THE NATURE FIX: WHY NATURE MAKES US HAPPIER, HEALTHIER AND MORE CREATIVE Author: Florence Williams; Reviewer: Brian Goldman

H

ave you ever wondered what compels hikers and climbers to endure fatigue, insect bites, blisters, and cold? Is there something about immersion in nature that we inherently need? Are we collectively suffering a “nature deficit disorder?” Do some countries have better national policies of improving health by providing access to nature? Florence Williams, author of The Nature Fix, traveled the world to uncover studies in neuroscience, medicine, and big data about the restorative influence of nature on our physical and mental health. In short, informative, and witty chapters, Williams displays a gift for clearly explaining the science behind nature’s positive effects on our brain and health.

In Japan, where they’ve coined the word karoshi—death from overwork—the government is creating over one hundred forest therapy sites for people to engage in shinrin yoku, forest bathing. Williams visited Yoshifume Miyazaki, a physical anthropologist whose research found that when people take forest walks, there is a 12 percent decrease in cortisol (your body’s main stress hormone), a 7 percent decrease in sympathetic nerve activity (which governs fight-or-flight behavior), a 1.4 percent decrease in blood pressure, a 6 percent decrease in heart rate, and a better mood and lower anxiety. In a country with a high suicide rate and tsukin jigoku— commuting hell—where workers shove you into a train during rush hour, nearly 25 percent of the population now walk forest therapy trails yearly. As Miyazaki explains, “we’ve spent 99.9 percent of our time in nature, a feeling of comfort can be achieved if our rhythms are synchronized with those of the environment.”

Immunologist Qing Li, a collaborator with Miyazaki, has studied natural killer (NK) immune cells, a type of white blood cell that can send self-destruct messages to tumors and virus-infected cells. Sure enough, three days of hiking boosted these NK cells by 40 percent for an entire week. Although not completely confirmed, Li suspects that NK cells are boosted by phytoncides, otherwise known as “nice tree smells.” These are essential oils emitted by evergreens and other trees. Li himself uses a humidifier with cypress oil in his house since he found that those who sleep inhaling a cypress scent experience

18 MAZAMAS

a 20 percent increase in NK cells and less fatigue.

In Korea, where forest bathing is called salim yok, the Forest Agency has established dozens of healing forests with dominant cypress trees. Scientists in Korea confirm the medicinal aspects of phytoncides as antibacterial and capable of “reducing stress 53 percent by lowering levels of cortisol and blood pressure 5–7 percent.” The soil also contains geosmin, which holds streptomyces bacteria, a key to many antibiotics. Two other studies looked at eleven- and twelve-year olds who suffer from “borderline technology addiction” (BTA). After two days in the forest, researchers found lower cortisol levels and improvement in self-esteem.

Armed with this research, Korea has planned a National Forest Plan “to realize a green welfare state, where the entire nation enjoys well-being” through work and school programs.

In Finland, economist Liisa Tyrvainen tweaked the experimental design of Miyazaki and concluded that Finns have elevated measures of restoration, vitality, and creativity when walking outside, but they must be in nature at least five hours a month. If you’re outside even longer, “you will reach a new level of feeling better and better,” she concluded.

Singapore is considered one of the top “biophilic cities” in the world. Almost half of the country’s 276 square miles are under some sort of green cover.

The population has grown by 2 million; however, the percentage of green space has increased from 36 to 47 percent. Although

many of these green spaces are gardens, greenhouses, paths with green corridors, and parks with constructed nature, the government’s vision has succeeded in making this country an oasis in SE Asia.

Studies have shown that mortality rates are lower near urban parks.

Other positive health effects of nature: Williams uncovered research in Ohio, Singapore and Australia suggesting that being outside in sunlight stimulates the release of dopamine from the retina, which prevents the eyeball from getting too oblong, thus preventing myopia (nearsightedness).

Awe: According to the author, Irish philosopher Edmund Burke may have understood the effect of transcendent experiences in nature. He traipsed the countryside and found that for something to be “awe-inspiring” there must be “vastness of extent” in which our senses find it difficult to make sense of it—which in turn inspires feelings of humility and a more outward perspective. Dacher Keltner and colleagues at UC Berkeley have found that experiencing awe was the only emotion to significantly lower levels of IL-6, a marker for inflammation. Lower levels are better; higher levels are linked to depression and stress. Keltner also suggests that the emotion awe causes us to reinforce and share emotional connections.

Ever wonder why you take those pictures on your cell phones and send them to family and friends?

The book continues by showing how military veterans suffering from Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD) have

diminished symptoms when rafting or backpacking, and how exercise and exploratory play among children increases verbal and math ability, lowers impulsivity, and leads to a threefold decrease in Attention Deficit Hyperactivity (ADHD) symptoms.

Could the positive effects of immersion in nature apply to our educational systems? Yes, indeed. The author states that Germany has more than 1,000 forest kindergartens called Waldkindergarten, where students are out in all kinds of weather. In one instance, after a large tree fell during a storm, the teacher launched a nature-based curriculum in which children sawed off branches to make the tree safe for climbing. In so doing, students practiced dexterity, teamwork and learned about cause and effect. In Scandinavia, 10 percent of preschoolers spend their entire days outside. In Finland, students have recess outside 15 minutes out of every hour. In contrast, two-thirds of the students in this country are Vitamin D (the sunshine vitamin) “insufficient.” In both the U.K. and the U.S.A., rickets, a disease caused by a lack of Vitamin D, has quadrupled in the past 15 years.

The Nature Fix confirms that even small amounts of exposure to the natural world can improve our creativity and enhance our mood. Williams shows how time in nature is not superfluous but is essential to our species. As our modern lives shift dramatically indoors, spending more time in nature is more urgent than ever.

As the author succinctly states, “Go outside, often, sometimes in wild places. Bring friends or not. Breathe.”

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cbdrevolution.com AUGUST 2018 19

ICS SPOUSE SURVIVAL GUIDE

by Becky Nelson

S

o your loved one is considering the Mazama Intermediate Climbing School (ICS).

When my husband announced his intentions last year to apply for the ICS I wasn’t surprised—but I was a little worried.

We had made a Faustian bargain the year before: he would agree to move to my favorite city, Portland, if and only if I would sign up for a basic mountaineering course with him, which of course turned out to be the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP). At the age of six, I floated a similar bargain to my parents: I would agree to move to Arizona if and only if they bought me a hamster. Six weeks later, in Scottsdale, Busy Bob entered our lives. Despite a debilitating fear of heights and a distaste for anything remotely athletic—coordination is not my strong suit—I figured BCEP couldn’t be half as bad as owning a pet hamster so we shook on it, moved to Portland, and six weeks later jumped into BCEP. And we had a total blast! But while I loved my BCEP experience, ICS felt like another beast altogether: a big, scary, massive time suck of a class colorfully illustrated by intense photos, secondhand tall tales, and snarky warnings (including my favorite, “BCEP is where you find a partner, ICS is where you lose them.”) If I wasn’t ready to take the plunge myself, I was even less enthusiastic about watching my partner do so. Harry, on the other hand, was fearless. So I watched him apply, ace the test, and get accepted with trepidation in my heart (trepidation, of course, requiring very little coordination).

20 MAZAMAS

But we made it through the nine months of ICS and I’m happy to report, at least for us, the worry and the warnings did not come to fruition—we are even still married!

So if you find yourself weighing whether to wholeheartedly support or wholeheartedly sabotage your loved one’s application, I encourage you to consider the five simple survival tips below. Follow them closely for a happy, productive, and dare I say enjoyable nine months as the spouse of an ICS student.

SURVIVAL TIP #1: LEARN THE LINGO It can be tough to get your spouse’s attention when he is full-throttle ICS, all the time. If you’re finding that real life pales in comparison to Defeating the Plaquette or Escaping the Belay, learn to compete by becoming fluent in mountaineering jargon. Imagine the excitement involved in Evacuating the Dishwasher, Exterminating the Dandelions, or Expurgating the Bedlinens!

SURVIVAL TIP #2: ANTICIPATE NEEDS After about 30 minutes with an ICS assistant, your partner’s definition of basic human needs will expand to include not just food, shelter, and water, but also things like a pink tricam and a second ice tool. This is great news for

you! Not only will buying your spouse the random $8 carabiner bring profane amounts of irrational delight, but you are set up for the most straightforward holiday shopping season ever (spoiler: you’re going to be buying those yellow La Sportiva boots.)

Also you’re going to need an air freshener for the car. Just trust me on this one. One of those pine tree jobbers will help make your partner (and her new dirty mountain friends) feel right at home.

SURVIVAL TIP #3: PRACTICE PATIENCE It’s the defining truth of ICS abandonment that your partner will be out of the house a lot. Take advantage of this absence by teaching the dog, cat, or kid—your choice!—where his loyalty should lie. My dog and I had a great nine months hiking, snuggling, eating table scraps, wrestling on the upholstery, pooping on the lawn, burying bones under my husband’s pillow ... you get the idea.

I also recommend watching the trashiest options available on your partner’s Netflix account, thereby completely ruining the algorithm for all time.

Photos: The author and her husband enjoying all the Pacific Northwest has to offer.

When you do see your partner, chances are good that you will be climbing. Prepare for a change in your typical climbing day.

Pre-ICS may have consisted of a leisurely breakfast burrito, six solid hours of climbing, and a leisurely burger and beer before heading home. Post-ICS, you should come to expect a leisurely breakfast burrito (save half for lunch, the most valuable advice given in ICS), five hours and fortyfive minutes of intense discussion about the climbing anchor, fifteen minutes of climbing, a fraught burger and beer over which there is more intense discussion about the climbing anchor, and guess what?

More discussion on the drive home. Pack headphones.

SURVIVAL TIP #4: ACCENTUATE THE POSITIVE A few ICS hacks I learned this year: ▶▶ ICS is the perfect time to challenge your partner to a footrace with high stakes.

Their confidence is high, their physical fitness incredibly low. For a course about mountaineering, there is very little actual mountaineering (or hiking, or really even walking) being done. ▶▶ ICS is also the perfect time to suggest a visit from your in-laws. Not only will there be no free weekends during which your partner can take you up on this

very kind, oh-so-thoughtful, just the sweetest offer, but your guest room will also more closely resemble an REI garage sale staging ground than an actual room that actual people could sleep in. ▶▶ Your spouse’s baseline for “fun” will drop precipitously, and include things like intentionally falling off tall climbing walls, laying maimed on a snowy mountain for hours during first-aid scenarios, and drinking lukewarm Starbucks Vias. Dinner with your friends or seeing the latest Marvel monstrosity will seem positively rapturous by comparison.

Use these hacks to your advantage.

SURVIVAL TIP #5: DON’T KEEP SCORE It may be framed as a year of sacrifice for the spouse that’s been “left behind,” but there are actually many benefits of ICS that will come to you through the hard work of your partner.

Though he will be eating, sleeping, and breathing ICS, he also will be weirdly paranoid about failing his tests. By quizzing him, you are not only improving your lingo fluency (see survival tip #1), you are also essentially auditing the class for free. When you inevitably apply for ICS, you will be way ahead of the game.

You will inherit, through very little effort on your part, cool new friends who have gone through nine months of serious vetting.

And, most importantly, it is extremely likely that the beneficiary of all this newly minted rescue expertise will be you. After a year of hard work, your spouse will still not be able to pull herself out of a crevasse. But she will be able to pull your lazy bones out of a crevasse, or lower your broken bones down a pitch, or CPR your unresponsive bones back to life, or at the very least prevent the dog from burying any bones under your pillow. She will work hard all year to learn skills that will benefit all of her future climbing partners, including you.

So it turns out that your loved one’s nine months of intense mountaineering training away from home really ends up being a selfless act of love and protection, and there’s no room whatsoever for resentment or regret.

Of course the best way to pay that forward, or perhaps exact your revenge, is to apply for ICS yourself.

Author Bio: Becky Nelson has been a member of the Mazamas since 2016. In addition to this, her Bulletin debut, she writes several emails a day.

AUGUST 2018 21

We are the bond stronger than any rope.

Everything we make is designed by climbers, for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak and crag to give you absolute protection, comfort and mobility when you really need it.

NEXT ADVENTURE | PORTLAND W W W.RAB.EQUIPMENT

e m o c Wel

NEW MAZAMAS

Our new members join a 124year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation. Please give them a warm welcome if you encounter them in a class, activity, or an evening program.

We welcome you to our ranks!

Luke Belbina, Mt. Hood Ifti Mirza, Mt. Shasta Christopher Brown, Mt. Rainier Sara Neahring, Mt. Hood Andrew Fountain, Honorary Member Wojciech Pagacz, Mt. Hood Arash Joushaghani, Mt. St. Helens

Linke Rejholec, South Sister Michael Alan Kennedy, Mt. Hood Michael Schoenheit, Mt. St Helens Tyler MacBeth, Mt. Adams Barbara Sutton, Old Snowy Mountain Amber Mira, Mt. St Helens Mike Thompson, Mt. Hood

NEW MEMBERS: 14 REINSTATEMENTS: 4

Matthew Boyd (2013), Kendra Childers (2015), Cameron Dorn (2012), Paulette Spencer (2002)

DECEASED: 0 Total Membership as of June 30, 2018—3,484; 2017—3,553

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership.

JOIN THE MAZAMAS TODAY! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the most active mountaineering organizations in the country: beta. mazamas.org/join ▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.

Membership Renewal You can now renew your Mazama membership quickly and easily online! If you are already a user of beta.mazamas.org, simply login and click the Renew button on the top right side of the page. You’ll be walked through the renewal flow.

If you haven’t yet created your account, head on over to beta.mazamas.org/gettingstarted to get all the details you will need to finish the process. Once you have created your account, you’ll be able to go through the renewal process.

The renewal process will work for anyone who has been a member of the Mazamas (not just current members). So if you login and don’t see the renew option, email us at beta. mazamas.org so we can help you out.

AUGUST 2018 23

CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or flobell17@comcast.net, Executive Council liaison Steve Couche at 503-998-0185 or stephencouche@ mazamas.org, or classics@ mazamas.org.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. Positions we need to fill are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater and help or backup for same. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org if you are interested.

LEADING EVENTS IN SEPTEMBER Send details to classics@ mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month for inclusion in the Bulletin.

UPCOMING CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING SEPT. 24, 11 A.M.–12:30 P.M. AT THE MMC CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point is Gateway; our west side location is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

24 MAZAMAS

WILDHAVEN PRESERVE— STAENDERS DONATION We’ve just learned that the Wildhaven Preserve outside of Sisters may be given to the Forest Service. This is a 160-acre property that the Staenders donated to the Nature Conservancy 35 years ago. The Conservancy now has other priorities. Some of us are worried that the Forest Service won’t be able to properly manage it up due to their budgetary issues. Article links: ▶▶ tinyurl.com/staender1 ▶▶ tinyurl.com/staender2 ▶▶ tinyurl.com/staender3

THURS. AUG. 21: MOSIER TUNNELS Join the Classics on a leisurely hike of the Mosier Plateau with views of the Mosier Pioneer Cemetery, Mosier Creek Falls, the Mosier Valley, and the Columbia.

The distance is 3.5 miles RT with a 600 ft. gain (moderate difficulty with a few stairs). Bring a lunch and hiking poles. We’ll have lunch on top of the plateau overlooking the Columbia Gorge. Meet at the MMC at 9:15 to carpool. Leader: Hal Howard, commerce@thehowards3. net, 503-293-1528.

FRI. AUG 31: LODGE LUNCHEON On Friday, August 31 we will have our annual Lodge Luncheon at 11:30 a.m. Contact the MMC (503-227-2345) or email classics@ mazamas.org to reserve your spot.

We will have carpools meet at the MMC at 10 a.m. If you want to carpool, mention that when you register (either as a rider or a driver).

Mosier Plateau.

SEPT. 4 & 5: PLUMMER PEAK Ray Sheldon is leading a slowpaced climb of Plummer Peak in Mt. Rainier National Park on Sept.

5 with car camping the night before at Cougar Rock Campground.

This climb is going to be at a nice, relaxed pace. We are going to take our time, enjoy the views and each other’s company as we climb in the lovely Tatoosh Range. This climb will leave town on Sept. 4 and summit on Sept. 5. If you would like to stay over for an additional night, you can choose to return to town on September 6. To sign up, go to tinyurl.com/plummerwithray. This will take you to the climb on the new Mazama website. You’ll need to create an account in order to sign up. There are handy resources on how to create your account at beta.mazamas.org/gettingstarted.

Need help? Email beta@mazamas. org or call Sarah Bradham at 503227-2345.

MAZAMA LODGE Your Home on the Mountain.

Summer Hours: Open Daily FALL WORK PARTY Our fall work party is Labor Day, Monday, Sept. 3 from 10 a.m.–3 p.m. We will be serving a complimentary lunch to all the volunteers who help us get our wood supply in good shape. You are welcome to stay Monday night of Labor Day weekend; Sunday night is sold out with Round The Mountain.

September 3 is the last chance to spend the night at Mazama Lodge until November when the lodge reopens after the eight week renovation. We also have lots of availability during the week from mid-August through the end of the month.

ROUND THE MOUNTAIN We still have some spots available for the 2018 Round The Mountain event over Labor Day Weekend.

THANK YOU Thank you to Jim Vanlente who just installed a new engine in our snow tractor. After 14 years it needed an upgrade.

VOLUNTEER AT THE LODGE During our two month lodge closure we are still looking for volunteers who would be interested in staying at the lodge. Responsibilities would be just to spend the night at the lodge. We have lots of disperse campers near the lodge and for general security of the building we always have someone staying at the lodge. If you are interested please email Charles Barker at lodge@mazamas.org.

SUMMER SPEAKER SERIES

In May–September we will be hosting a speaker the first Sunday of the month. The summer speaker series offers dinner at 5 p.m. and a program at 6 p.m. Dinner is $13.25; program is free.

SANDOR’S MAGIC HOUR OF THE SUNSHINE STATE: AUG. 5 Recovering writer and filmmaker Sándor Lau relapses again with a photo show of his favorite magic hour shots of the sunshine states: California, Arizona, Nevada, and Hawaii. Show features shots and stories of adventures to Yosemite, Grand Canyon, Mt. Shasta, Mt. Whitney, Red Rock Canyon, Picacho Peak, Camelback Mountain, and Mt. Haleakala, all shot at the golden hour just before sunset and just after sunrise. Calendars and framed prints will be available with all profits going to Mazamas.

THE BEST OF TANZANIA: SEPT. 2 Kilimanjaro via the Western Breach route is the most challenging and also by far the most dangerous way to summit, but it is not as technical as it’s often portrayed. John Leary and friends found there are some tricky sections that require scrambling but not advanced rock climbing skills. The challenge offers the chance to do something unusual and to be different. Where all other routes take you to the crater rim, this route takes you inside the crater before topping out. They will also share their experience on safari post-climb.

AUGUST 2018 25

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK B2 Aug 01 (Wed) Gnarl Ridge/ Elk Meadows Loop Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Beautiful meadow & great views. Wilderness—Limit 12. This is another way to get up to Gnarl Ridge, high up on Mt. Hood where you get great views of glaciers, and areas east and south.

The other hike is Gnarl Ridge from Cloud Cap Hike. 10.2 mi., 2,400 ft., Drive 126, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

(AR,MH,WO)MU HK C2 Aug 01 (Wed) Silver Falls –Grand Perimeter Loop Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail. com. Come see a part of Silver Falls State Park along a lollipop loop in the forested “backcountry” of Oregon’s largest state park. Enjoy plenty of switchbacks along mostly gentle slopes. Pass through groves of ancient Douglas firs and cross several small creeks along the way.

Head lamps required. $5 parking fee per vehicle. 16.8 mi., 2,470 ft., Drive 126, TH, MMC 7 a.m.

HK B1.5 Aug 03 (Fri) Dog Mountain Loop Kat Valdre katvaldre@gmail.com. Extremely popular (crowded) spring and summer hike when the Balsam Root is in bloom. We will take a slightly different route up via Augspurger Mountain trail to the summit and Dog Mountain trail down. No seasonal permits are required on Fridays! 8.4 mi., 2,800 ft., Drive 98, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (GH)MU

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain.

Class D: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace

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BP Aug 04 (Sat) Round Mt. St. Helens Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Take 3 days to backpack around Mt St. Helens. We will Camp at Climbers Bivouac, ready for an early Sunday start, returning on Tuesday evening.

Space for 8 experienced backpackers only. Contact leader for details. .

HK C2 Aug 04 (Sat) Paradise Park ( from Hwy 26) Gary Riggs gary. riggs@outlook.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. This hike takes you up to and around Paradise Park, one of the most extensive and beautiful alpine areas on Mt. Hood. If you want to get a good impression of the different layers of climate/vegetation zones on the west slope of Mt. Hood, this lollipop loop hike takes you from typical lowland woodland through the montane forest zone and into subalpine parklands. 12.7 mi., 3,100 ft., Drive 100, TH, Gateway 8 a.m.

(WF,MH,WO) HK B2 Aug 05 (Sun) Hummocks to Johnston Ridge Ellen Burns 503703-8907. Interesting hummocks, fabulous views, interesting Johnston Ridge. Wilderness—Limit 12. Mt. Saint Helens hike through an interesting area where hummocks formed after the blast, up a ridge to a great view point. 10.4 mi., 1,830 ft., Drive 180, TH, 99th Street Transit Center (Vancouver) 8 a.m. MU

information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Qualifies for Waterfall Award.

AR: Qualifies for Awesome Ridges Award.

GH: Qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84

WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change.

Visit beta.mazamas.org/hike for updates!

WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES: TUESDAYS & THURSDAYS Multiple teams hike at different paces with various leaders.

Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI– Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

MT. TABOR STREET RAMBLES: WEDNESDAYS Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3 mi/hr.) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland to Mt. Tabor Park. In the park, we will take alternating trails to the top of the 280 stairs at the NE corner of the park. From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs, then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. 2 hours (arrive early to sign in) 5 mi., 500 ft., Drive 0, Mazama Mountaineering Center 503-227-2345 6 p.m.

MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/mazaymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: beta.mazamas.org/AYM HK C1.5 Aug 05 (Sun) Cooper Spur (Cloud Cap to Tie-In) Brett Nair 503-847-9550. Wilderness—Limit 12. This spectacular hike begins at the Cloud Cap trailhead, and quickly climbs to several soaring viewpoints above the spectacular Eliot Glacier enroute to the rocky crest of Cooper Spur, the highest point on the mountain that can be reached by trail. The route also passes one of the surviving rustic stone shelters that once dotted the Timberline Trail. 6.4 mi., 2,800 ft., Drive 166, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. MU (AR,MH,WO)MU

HK B2.5 Aug 08 (Wed) Gnarl Ridge/Elk Meadows Loop Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. Mt. Hood hike up Gnarl Ridge via Elk Meadows. Moderate pace with time for photos and occasional rest breaks. We should get great views of glaciers, and areas to east and south, along with nice wildflowers. 10.2 mi., 2,400 ft., Drive 126, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

(WF,AR,MH,WO)

HK A1.5 Aug 07 (Tue) Lewis River Falls Flora Huber 503-658-5710. A short, but premiere waterfall hike in the Gifford Pinchot. 6.6 mi., 320 ft., Drive 172, TH, Gateway 9 a.m. (WF)

Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver.

99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol

and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

HK B2 Aug 09 (Thu) Indian Mountain via PCT Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Indian Mountain is a prominence and former lookout site on Waucoma Ridge, from the Wahtum Lake Trailhead using the Pacific Crest Trail. Great views of the gorge and Mt. Hood. 9 mi., 1200 ft., Drive 170, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (WO) New! Online Signup Available. Go to beta.mazamas.org/hike for details.

HK B2 Aug 10 (Fri) McNeil Point (Top Spur to Tie-In) Eric Hall 503-867-4738 or erichall@q.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Up the Top Spur Trail to the Timberline Trail and around Bald Mountain with views of Mt. Hood’s west face. Hike along Bald Mountain Ridge, past alpine meadows and reflecting ponds, and on up to McNeil Point. 11 mi., 2,900 ft., Drive 100, TH, MMC 7:30 a.m. (AR,MH,WO) HK A1.5 Aug 11 (Sat) Dry Creek Falls Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Recently reopened Dry Creek Falls is perfect for those who want a leisurely hike; still plenty to see in spite of the fires.

We will park below the Bridge of the Gods, then take our time getting to the falls and back. Examples of how fickle forest fires can be with some areas spared and others devastated.

5.4 mi., 710 ft., Drive 78, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (WF,AR,GH)MU HK C2.5 Aug 11 (Sat) Yocum Ridge Bill Stein 503-830-0817. Epic hike on the west side of Mt Hood. From Ramona Falls, ascend ramp-like trail to stupendous viewpoint. We’re meeting early and moving fast so we have time to go beyond the first viewpoint. Bring camera, hat, and sunscreen. 17.4 miles, 3,800 ft. Drive 92, TH, Clackamas Towne Center, 6 a.m. (WF,MH,WO) New! Online Signup Available. Go to beta. mazamas.org/hike for details.

HK A1.5 Aug 14 (Tue) Wildcat Mountain (Douglas Trail) Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Wilderness— Limit 12. The Douglas Trail provides the shortest, fastest route into the western edge of the SalmonHuckleberry Wilderness, with nice views into the Eagle Creek Canyon, and ridgetop meadows and rock gardens within a short hike of the recently relocated Douglas Trailhead.

6.8 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 80, MMC 9 a.m.

(MH,WO) HK B2 Aug 15 (Wed) Kings Mountain Tony Spiering 503-6808112. Nice woodsy hike in Coast Range with some elevation gain and views at the top. Back to town early PM. 5 mi., 2,500 ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK A1 Aug 16 (Thu) Mirror Lake Flora Huber 503-658-5710. The Mirror Lake trail has the misfortune of being one of the few hikes accessible directly from Highway 26, and thus suffers a crush of visitors on weekends. The attention is well-deserved: the always well-graded trail takes you past a picture-postcard view of Mt. Hood and rugged Tom Dick and Harry Mountain, towering above Mirror Lake. (Trailhead moving soon to Ski Bowl area). 3 mi., 780 ft., Drive 98, MMC 9:30 a.m. (MH)

DH A2 Aug 21 (Tue) Hardy Creek Loop Hike Don McCoy donald1020@aol.com, 503709-9306. We will start at the Equestrian Trailhead and hike up the Upper Hardy Trail to the Bridge Trail. We will follow the Bridge Trail down to the East Hardy Trail which connects back to the Equestrian Trail, which we will take back to the parking lot.

Leashed well behaved dogs are welcome. 7.04 mi., 1,004 ft., Drive 88, StatePark, MMC 9 a.m.

HK B2.5 Aug 17 (Fri) Olallie Lake Loop Hike William O’Brien wobobr123@yahoo.com. Nice hike in the Olallie Lakes region, an area punctuated with subalpine lakes leftover from the glaciers.

The highlight of this hike, besides hiking past numerous lakes, will be summitting both Potato Butte and Double Peak. Both offer great views of Mt Jefferson and Olallie Butte. There is climbing involved, so you need to be in good condition. 9 miles mi., 2200 ft., Drive 170, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (WO)MU

HK A2 Aug 21 (Tue) Harry’s Ridge Flora Huber 503-6585710. Named for the lovable curmudgeon who refused to leave his homestead when St. Helens was on the brink of erupting, Harry’s Ridge offers a fascinating panorama of the restless giant, still smoking and belching occasionally, years after her devastating awakening. 8 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive 226, TH, MMC 8:30 a.m.

HK A1.5 Aug 18 (Sat) Twin Lakes Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier. com or 503-665-6778. Classic Mt. Hood area hike visits both Upper and Lower Twin Lakes. Swimming anyone?? No dogs. 5.6 mi., 860 ft., Drive 100, TH, Cherry Park Shopping Center (Park between Safeway and U S Bank) 9 a.m.

HK A2 Aug 19 (Sun) Urban Gems: Salmon Creek and Burnt Bridge Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Two urban trails that work for evening hikes. We will do Burnt Bridge trail first from the West end, waterfowl and many birds, to Leverich Park and return. Then we will drive two miles north to Salmon Creek and catch the sun hitting Mt. Hood as we hike from the West end, up Cougan Creek, and return. Can be hiked in any kind of weather. 7.5 mi., 200 ft., Drive 40, Gateway 3:30 p.m.

MU HK A2 Aug 20 (Mon) Ramona Falls loop Ellen Burns 503-703-8907.

Challenging Sandy River Crossing x 2 to a beautiful waterfall. Wilderness— Limit 12. A mostly level hike brings us to the Sandy River. There is no bridge, so we need to be extremely careful in crossing. Most people cross on the logs by scooting on their behinds.

Then some elevation as we hike on to the beautiful falls for lunch and contemplation. Lush green foliage along the stream on the loop back to another crossing of the Sandy River.

7.3 mi., 1,100 ft., Drive 92, TH, MMC 8 a.m. MU

HK B2 Aug 22 (Wed) Gales Creek to Bell Camp Tony Spiering 503680-8112. Nice Hike mostly along Gales Creek in the Coast range.

Generally nice and cool if warm in the Valley. 10.1 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 50, Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 26 (Sun) Potato Butte Ellen Burns 503-703-8907.

Lunch with a view, beautiful lakes.

We will pass by pristine lakes as we hike a rocky trail to Potato Butte for lunch with a view. Very enjoyable! 7.2 mi., 1,700 ft., Drive 168, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2.5 Aug 29 (Wed) Fort to Sea Trail, Lewis & Clark Bob Breivogel breivog@teleport.com.

The Fort To Sea Trail starts from Visitor Center at Fort Clatsop.

The first two miles take you up a gentle climb to the top of Clatsop Ridge, where you can see through the trees to the ocean.

Descend through deep woods to wooded pasture with small lakes.

Then utilize a tunnel under U.S. Highway 101 and on to the beach.

Optional pick up at Sunset Transit center (call leader first). 12.7 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive 164, Target/185th 9 a.m.

SIGN ONLINE FOR INDIAN MOUNTAIN OR YOCUM RIDGE! Hike Leaders Rex Breunsbach and Bill Stein have listed two of their hikes this month at beta.mazamas.org/hikes.

You can create your profile and then signup and pay online. When you complete your hike, it’ll be logged on your Mazama profile. Start racking up the miles today!

ONLINE HIKE SIGN UP IS COMING! Get ready for the hike registration moving online by creating your profile on the Mazama website.

Go to beta.mazamas.org/gettingstarted and read the FULL directions. The ONLY trick is for those of you who are already Mazama members, you want to make sure to create your account using the email address we already have on file for you. If you don’t know what email address that is, just drop us a line at beta@mazamas.org and we will look it up for you.

Add a photo to your profile, tell us a bit about yourself, sign the liability waiver, and, if you would like to, save a credit card to your account. You’ll be all ready to go when we launch the online hike feature!

AUGUST 2018 27

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

Check the website at beta.mazamas.org/AYM and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted.

Want to be featured on the AYM Instagram account? Tag @aympdx in your photos of Mazama adventures!

MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶ Committee Meeting is on Monday, Aug. 27, 6:30PM, MMC ▶▶ Board Game Night at Oregon Public House, Aug. 7, 6:30 PM ▶▶ Pub Night: The Deck (on the Columbia River), Aug. 21, 6 PM ▶▶ We host climb night the first week of the month—check our meetup page for details.

NEAHKANIE MOUNTAIN, SATURDAY, AUG. 4

PERSEIDS METEOR BACKPACK, SATURDAY, AUG. 11–12

LEADER: PATRICIA NEIGHBOR

LEADER: TOBY CREELAN

Join us on a gorgeous 8-mile hike along the Oregon Coast Trail, crossing Neahkanie Mountain, starting at Short Sand Beach.

We’ll meet at Sunset Transit Center at 7 a.m., and leave no later than 7:15 a.m.

Come along for a wilderness trek during the Perseids meteor shower. We’ll enjoy alpine wildflowers and flows of volcanic glass in the Obsidian Falls area. Meet 6am MMC. Capped at ten hikers. Limited Entry Permit. 16 miles, 2,800 ft, B3. NW Forest Pass required.

EPIC ONE WAY BACKPACKING TRIP ACROSS THE OLYMPICS, AUG. 10–12 LEADERS: CABE NICKSIC, DAVID GRABIN, PAUL KALLMANN

Have you ever thought about hiking across the Olympic Mountains from the Puget Sound to the Pacific Ocean? If so, this 34-mile 3-day backpack is the trip for you. We will traverse the whole peninsula from Sound to Coast (or vice versa) through the Enchanted Valley and over the Anderson Pass. The trailheads are Graves Creek on the west side and Dosewallips on the east side. We’ll have two groups, one starting from each direction and meeting in the middle for a key exchange. We will do this over the course of three full days, leaving Portland early morning on Friday, Aug. 10 and returning late in the evening on Sunday, Aug. 12. Given that we will hike 34 miles and over 5,000 feet of elevation in three days carrying a full pack, this trip is for experienced backpackers only. Signup at beta.mazamas.org/aym

28 MAZAMAS

BACKPACK: OCEAN LOOKOUTS WEEKEND, AUG. 17–20

LEADER: TOBY CREELAN

Join us for a weekend at two of the best lookout rentals, right on the Pacific Ocean.

We’ll begin at Lake O’Woods tower in the Rogue Valley, then continue at Snow Camp—overlooking fifty miles of coastline from 4,223 ft. Day hikes explore the remote west edge of the Kalmiopsis Wilderness, home of some rarest plants on earth. 3 nights, shared rental cabin fee. Drive 700+ RT. Capped at 4 hikers. Signup at beta. mazamas.org/aym

PUB NIGHT: THE DECK (ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER), AUG. 21 Each month we gather to talk about adventures past and future, meet new and old friends. This month we’ll enjoy summer while we still can at The Deck on the Columbia River. thedeckpdx.com.

You can now signup for AYM hikes/backpacking trips at beta.mazamas.org. Create your account (get all the details at beta.mazamas. org/gettingstarted), click on activity, and sign up! It’s quick and easy, and you’ll be able to track all of your Mazama activities in one place.

CRATER LAKE/UMPQUA NATIONAL FOREST: GROUP CAMPING TRIP: FRI., AUG. 31–MON., SEP. 3

EVENT COORDINATOR: MIKE KACMAR

An AYM tradition continues over Labor Day Weekend, and this year we will explore new territory! AYM will spend this Labor Day Weekend at the lone group campsite at Horseshoe Bend Campground in Umpqua National Forest. This will serve as our three-night basecamp for explorations from basic to strenuous difficulty levels; both, along the North Umpqua River as well as hikes around Mt. Bailey, Mt. Thielsen, and our coveted National Park, Crater Lake.

Cost: Members $45 / Nonmembers $60.

Signup at beta.mazamas.org/aym

Climb the Highest Mountain in Africa!

Looking for 3 more people for January 5, and 2 more people for February 11 Kilimanjaro climb. 8 days on the mountain. 3 nights in hotels. Contact donovan@ embarkexplorationco.com

DESIGNED TO MEET THE DEMANDS OF THE MOUNTAIN MYSTERY RANCH builds the best load-bearing equipment in the world. Inspired by our outdoor obsessions and designing packs for some of the most demanding customers and environments out there. conquer your mountain at mysteryranch.com NEW LEADER SPOTLIGHT: LAUREN SANKOVITCH 1. Hometown? Originally born in the Bay Area, I have lived in the Midwest, from coast to coast, and a smidge internationally ... but the Pacific Northwest is home.

2. Years with the Mazamas? 2+ years 3. Favorite trips that you’ve led with AYM? I’m a relatively new hike leader but my most memorable trip with AYM was my very first, which I replicated for my first hike as a leader, Coyote Wall!

4. What is one thing that you always bring on a hike that is not one of the 10 essentials? The 11th Essential: a sense of humor!

5. Favorite Leader Treat? Folks wanting to sign up for my next hike before we’re done with the current one. (oh, and super dark bitter chocolate!)

6. When you were a kid, what did you want to be when you grew up and why? I wanted to be a dinosaur astronaut. Dream big, right?

7. What is one surprising thing about yourself that people don’t usually know about you? I’m older than I look!

8. People should sign up for a trip with you if.... They like getting their sweat on and listening to me wax poetic about the wonders of our local geological paradise.

9: What are your other favorite outdoor activities?

Mountaineering, skiing, swimming, rock climbing, canoeing, crushing s’mores!

10: What is your alter ego outside of AYM? Managing editor and geology student.

AUGUST 2018 29

Above: Darrin Gunkel enjoying a bit of #vanlife in his beloved Westfalia.

#vanlife

by Jonathan Barrett

A

s a parent of a small child, I have a deep, almost primeval, fear of vans. As a child of the 80’s, after school specials and public service announcements warned me against people who called out, “Hey kid! I’m a professional photographer. Come with me to my van, and I’ll take your picture.” As a result windowless van is the first place I am going to look when my son’s face appears on the back of the milk container. The problem is that now, all these vans are filled with beautiful, half-dressed Athleta models and Patagonia ambassadors. Since when did prAna start hiring transients as marketing influencers?

We hope you will enjoy this article as viewed through the lends of humor, as it was intended.

30 MAZAMAS

As a result, I find the whole #vanlife thing really confusing, as does my kid. For example, I brought my son, Liam, to Smith last fall. We got out of the car in the bivouac parking lot, and there was a man sitting in the open door of his black Sprinter. Liam grabbed my hand a little tighter and said fearfully, “Daddy, don’t let him take me!” I turned to him and replied, “Don’t worry, son. He has a trust fund. He can’t hurt you.”

Liam looked really confused. This man’s fingernails were black. He was barefoot. His beard was thick, but artfully cut. He was shirtless. In his fingers was a funny smelling cigarette. “Daddy, why is he smoking?”

Liam asked. “Well, son. Sometimes adults have a hard time coping with reality.”

“So he’s doing drugs?”

“No, that’s why he bought the van. The cigarette is just cloves.”

That evening when we returned to the parking lot, there was a man standing on the roof of a ‘96 Ford Econoline. “Daddy, is he fixing his roof ?” Liam asked. I looked at him skeptically. Was he messing with me? The dude was doing downward dog in the fading sunlight. My son had seen me doing yoga in the our privacy of our basement before. He knew I kind of hated it. In his mind, no one would ever do it in public. “Maybe he is looking for a hole that water is coming through,” he offered thoughtfully. The shirtless man in $100 shorts moved gracefully into tree pose. “Oh no!” Liam said. “He’s going to fall off !” A lithe woman appeared on the ground next to the van.

“Maybe she will catch him.” She took out her iPhone.

“No, wait I think she is going to take his picture.

Daddy, why is she taking his picture?”

“Well, son. Sometimes when you live in a van, it’s hard to stay connected to people. Always moving around. Not being in the same place all the time,” I said. Vanlifer was now doing Pungu Mayuransana, wounded peacock, and the girl continued to take pictures of him. Secretly I wondered: if a climber falls off a van roof in the woods, can anyone hear him scream?

“So, he’s homeless. We should give him something to eat. He can have my apple. I still have it from our hike.” He started to reach into his bag.

By this time the man had finished his poses and was climbing down off the roof of his van. He took a long swig from his Hydroflask. “Honey!” he called to his partner, “Can you check the Goal Zero batteries?

There is a crack in the solar panel cable. It might not be charging.” “‘Scuse me,” Liam said. “Here. You can have this.” He held out his apple in a gesture of sincere concern.

“Is it organic?” he asked. Liam looked at him blankly as the man took it to inspect the sticker. “Thanks kiddo, but I am really careful with my body. You can keep it,” he said as he handed it back.

As Liam and I walked back to the car, he shook his head. “What’s the matter, bud?” I asked.

“That guy. He makes bad choices. Maybe that’s why he’s homeless.”

“What do you mean?” I asked.

“He said he wants to take care of his body, but he was being very unsafe on the roof. And look,” he said as he pointed back in the direction of the van where the man was walking across the parking lot in his bare feet. “He should put some shoes on so he doesn’t cut his foot.”

Back at our friend’s house in Bend, Liam climbed into their truck-bed camper which served as guest quarters when we visited them. It was 8PM, his regular bedtime. “Daddy,” he said. “I’m really glad that we live in a house.”

“Why is that, bud?” I asked as I tucked him in with his stuffed moose, Mary.

“Because I’d miss my friends if we were always moving around, like that guy we saw today.”

“Well, I suppose that’s a fair point,” I said. How could I explain the fact that these people likely have many friends and acquaintances spread across the West, people that they regularly meet at Indian Creek or in Squamish. How could I explain that much of their community was online and digital? That even though they can open their doors and make a parking lot their new front yard, they can’t always know who their neighbors will be from one day to the next. That they are sacrificing a degree of regular, in-the-flesh human contact for space and mobility.

I pulled the fleece blanket up against his chin.

“Well. They have friends online who like to see their pictures. They can share their lives that way,” I said.

“Oh,” Liam said. “Well, I like knowing that Owen is just up the street. And that he’ll always be up the street. He’ll never move away.”

“Yeah, kiddo. I don’t think that I would want to live on the road like they do, either.”

“What’s it like to live in a mobile home?” he asked as I was just opening Captain Underpants to read the next chapter to him.

“Well, actually it’s not really a mobile home,” I said.

“Oh, I mean RV.” I put the book down. How was I to explain that it was their home but not a mobile home.

That old people live in RVs and go to national parks, like Yosemite. That young people live in vans and ... go to national parks, like Yosemite. But it’s not the same.

“It’s a van, son. Let’s just read some of the book so you can get to sleep on time.” Somehow the world of an ill-tempered grade school principal who transforms into a superhero made more sense to him in that moment than the subtleties of #vanlife.

We all remember the Chris Farley SNL sketch where he admonishes David Spade and Christina Applegate to get their lives in order, otherwise they will be, “living in a van down by the river.” Maybe my point of view needs to shift. Maybe there is nothing wrong at all with childless men living in a van down by the river. After all, if my son becomes one of them, I know where to find his picture.

AUGUST 2018 31

2018 Voter Guide

This is your voter guide for the 2018 Mazama election cycle. This year you will be voting on your three new Executive Council members and three new Nominating Committee members.

Mazama Annual Meeting and Election October 1, 2018 Executive Council (Board of Directors)

The Mazamas Executive Council (Board of Directors) is comprised of 9 members, each serving 3 year terms. Each year members vote for 3 new members, and 3 members finish their terms. This is the current membership for the Executive Council (Executive Board), with their current positions, and term expiration dates.

Judith Baker member since 1997

Walter Keutel member since 2009

Terms expiring Oct. 1, 2018 • Jon Jurevic • Chris Kruell, President • Darrell Weston

Nominating Committee Candidates 32 MAZAMAS

Joe Eberhardt member since 2009

Josh Townsley Robin Wilcox member since 2003

member since 2014

Terms expiring Oct. 4, 2019 • Steve Couche • Laura Pigion, Vice President • Marty Scott, Treasurer

George Cummings member since 1960

Sue Dimin

Terms expiring Oct. 5, 2020 • Keith Campbell • Preston Corless • Traci Manning, Secretary

member since 1994

Joan Zuber

member since 1993

BOARD AND/OR COMMITTEE EXPERIENCE WITH OTHER ORGANIZATIONS I am currently the board President of a national professional nonprofit called the National Association of IOLTA programs (NAIP). I’ve served on this board for ten years. I was on the board of the Rieke Grade School PTA serving as President for the 2009-2010 school year.

Judith Baker member since 1997

WORK/PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE I am the Executive Director of the Oregon Law Foundation (OLF) located at the Oregon State Bar. I spend my time working to increase funding for civil legal services to low income Oregonians. We fund only organizations that provide legal services to those most in need and whose legal needs are of the highest priority.

Right now housing and immigration are at the top. I was a legal aid lawyer at one point in my career working for migrant farmworkers so being part of a foundation that funds low income legal services is near and dear to my heart.

RELEVANT LIFE AND LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE I currently serve in leadership roles that have both a statewide and nationwide impact. As previously stated I am currently serving as the President of a national professional nonprofit that is member based. I am in my second and last year as President. Over the course of the past year I have lead this organization through a major strategic planning process obtaining buy in from programs across the United States and Canada. As the Executive Director of the Oregon Law Foundation I work with the both the Oregon State Bar and the judiciary to promote access to justice throughout Oregon.

PERSONAL STATEMENT I have been a member of the Mazamas since 1997. I am still climbing mountains and thoroughly enjoying being part of the Mazamas and believe highly in its mission.

I was on the Executive Council from 2012 through 2015 and gained a fundamental understanding of the issues facing the Mazamas moving forward. I am currently the President of a national member organization and have lead them through a major strategic planning process with the goal of achieving value of membership. The value of membership is different between the two organizations but the concept is the same. I believe an effective board member basis their decision making on the mission of the organization and not on their own agenda. They are thoughtful and open to hearing the opinion of others and making changes if it makes sense for the organization. I am also an executive director of a nonprofit and have a keen understanding of how nonprofits operate both programmatically and financially. I am well versed in nonprofits and board governance and would be honored to serve a three year term on Executive Council.

MAZAMAS ACTIVITY I served on the Mazamas Executive Committee starting in 2012 for a three year term. I’ve been a frequent volunteer for BCEP and to a lesser extend ICS.

Voting Procedure E–VOTING: All Mazama members who have an email address on file with the Mazamas AND who do not Opt-Out of E-voting for the Mazama Annual Election, will receive an email to vote in the election on September 2 (appx). This email will include a link that is specific to you (if you share an email address with another member, you will receive two emails to that shared address, each with a unique link). You will click on this link to make your election choices. Once you have confirmed your selections you cannot change your vote. You must utilize this voting link by Oct. 1 at 1:30 p.m. No votes can be accepted after that time.

VOTE BY MAIL: All Mazama members who Opt-Out of E-voting, or who do not have an email address on file with the Mazamas will receive a paper ballot by standard USPS mail. This ballot will arrive around September 3, and will include a voter pamphlet, ballot, and return envelope. Make your election choices, put your ballot in the return envelope, place a stamp on the envelope, and drop it in the mail. Paper ballots must be received by Oct. 2 at 1:30 p.m. to be counted. Ballots received after that time cannot be accepted.

If you want to Opt-Out of E-Voting, go there and click on Opt-Out beta.mazamas.org/mazamaelection/ AUGUST 2018 33

VOTER GUIDE, continued from previous page ▶▶ 2008–2009, Parent Teachers Organization (PTO), leading fundraising. ▶▶ 1995–1997, SIU Aikido Club, Vice President. ▶▶ 1991–1994, SIU Equestrian Team, Treasurer and Executive Board adviser. ▶▶ 1990–1993 Gamma Beta Phi Honor Society, head of publicity. ▶▶ 1990–1991, Arnold’s Air Society (ROTC), Deputy Commander.

Joe Eberhardt member since 2009

WORK/PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE Small business owner of Ravensview Capital, an independent investment adviser service, that educates clients on investments, financial plans, and performs money management. Former commodities trader. Former instructor for OSU and Linfield College in economics and finance.

I have led development on renewable energy projects for solar, geothermal and hydro power. Former U.S. Army Combat Engineer with 7 years of service.

My philosophy of life and work is: 1) do it right the first time, 2) do it efficiently, and 3) teach others how to do it so that collectively you can leverage the power of a team. My experience in teaching can help the Mazamas in shaping their educational programs to serve the needs of the many stakeholders including: students, assistants, and the instructors/ coordinators. My finance and investment experience can help the Mazamas make prudent strategic money decisions whether that be MMC/Lodge repairs or seeding new program development.

BOARD AND/OR COMMITTEE EXPERIENCE IN OTHER ORGANIZATIONS ▶▶ 2012–2014, Encore Condominium HOA, Board Chairman & Director. ▶▶ 2011–2012, Social Venture Partners, Finance Committee Member.

34 MAZAMAS

I have served on many boards and committees over the years in roles from supporting director to Chairman. I both get and give the most on boards that engage subjects dear to my heart. I believe that shepherding the Mazamas organization through the 2020 plan and keeping its culture intact while allowing it to evolve is a critical mission, and one that I am devoted to seeing succeed.

RELEVANT LIFE AND LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE Entrepreneur. Father of three. Public speaking and presentations on various topics. Successful grant writing.

The U.S. Army culture helped pull me out of my adolescent introverted self, showing me how an individual can make a difference and why it was important for every single one of us to stand up and take on the challenge and responsibility of leadership to the best of our ability. I have continued to develop in my leadership capability over the decades, and have come to understand leadership as a service to those we lead.

MAZAMAS ACTIVITY ▶▶ Training: ▷▷ 2011 BCEP Graduate ▷▷ 2012 MFA ▷▷ 2012-2013 ICS Graduate ▷▷ 2014 became a Climb Leader ▷▷ 2016 AR Graduate ▶▶ Volunteering: ▷▷ Assisted 2 BCEP cycles. ▷▷ Assisted 3 ICS cycles. ▷▷ Coordinator/Committee Chair for 2 AR cycles. ▷▷ Led 12 Mazamas climbs thus far.

▶▶ Summitted 32 times on 19 different peaks. ▶▶ I have led 11 of the 16 peaks thus far, and am working on improving my comfort level with high angle snow. I look forward to leading my first BCEP class soon in 2019.

PERSONAL STATEMENT

Our strategic future focus needs to be equally turned outward as well as inward.

Inward: We are expanding our educational programs in an effort to serve current Mazamas better, and also to serve more of the community, to thereby increasing our voice in the region…and through teaming with AAC in the nation.

I have as a coordinator for the Advanced Rock School helped ensure those high standards in High Angle Rock Rescue training, and understand the need for high standards in all of our training and Schools. Climb Leader education and development continues to ensure the highest level of training in line with national standards, and is helping to bring new leaders forward to lead more climbs. I have evaluated many future Climb Leaders, and continue to recommend aspiring and capable future leaders.

Outward: Advocacy for mountain wilderness will help shape access to the wilderness areas where our many beloved peaks and crags are located. The Mazamas can have a positive impact on future policy toward wilderness , and will be a necessity to ensure we continue to have regular access to climb as the population in the region swells.

I believe that I can bring value to the table of the Executive Council as it makes important decisions on these many aspects that both affect our organization and that we can affect outside of our organization.

may, at times, have strong opinions, which I am ready to explain and, if appropriate, defend, I am not set in my ways and am always open to new ideas.

MAZAMAS ACTIVITY

Walter Keutel member since 2009

WORK/PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE I have been an independent translator for over 25 years and work for translation/ localization companies in the US and around the globe. As a language specialist, I have been involved in market introductions of highly visible products by some of the largest companies in the world. Working as a translator requires flexibility, diligence, attention to detail and a cooperative attitude—I believe these are characteristics that are also necessary for a successful Executive Council member.

BOARD AND/OR COMMITTEE EXPERIENCE IN OTHER ORGANIZATIONS None

RELEVANT LIFE AND LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE I have worked independently my whole life (as a translator and, earlier, as a college teacher). I am used to completing projects on time and under pressure. Although I

▶▶ Mazama Conservation Committee member, 2009 to 2014—wrote articles for the Mazama Bulletin/organized tree plantings. ▶▶ Mazama Climbing Committee, 2014 to present—managed awards, climb leader recognition and worked on taskforces. ▶▶ Governing Doc Committee, 2016 to present. Participated in various Mazama taskforces. ▶▶ Climb leader since 2014.

who are most active. The Mazamas offers exceptional opportunities for gaining outdoor adventure skills (as I myself have experienced), but the burden to provide these services rests on too few of our members. I believe the Mazamas can improve on internal coordination, broaden the range of available activities and provide even more recognition to those who are most active. The result could not only be a bigger organization with a larger membership, but also a more successful club that is even more respected as a regional and national advocate for outdoor activities and the environment and is fully supported by a diverse membership.

PERSONAL STATEMENT After joining the Mazamas, I almost immediately realized that my membership and my involvement in the Mazamas would transform my life. Nearly ten years later, I can confidently state that my early impressions have been confirmed. I have learned many skills by participating in a broad range of the educational activities the Mazamas offers, have been actively passing on these skills as a climb leader and BCEP leader, and have been involved in a number of committees.

These insights into the “inner workings” of the Mazamas have also allowed me to see that there are still many areas where changes and improvements could make the Mazamas an even stronger organization. Besides struggling to fill their ranks, many committees operate separate from each other which sometimes leads to a dissatisfying lack of cooperation.

On the other hand, the administrative tasks for individual committees can be overwhelming and can be a cause for frustration—and “burn-out” for those

Please note: Executive Council Candidate information has been standardized to fit a certain format, however no editing has been done. Other than formatting, the information is provided exactly as submitted by the candidates.

AUGUST 2018 35

VOTER GUIDE, continued from previous page BOARD AND/OR COMMITTEE EXPERIENCE IN OTHER ORGANIZATIONS

Josh Townsley member since 2014

WORK/PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE Executive Director, Evergreen Habitat for Humanity since 2011. Formerly in fundraising for other local nonprofits.

Managed Sauvie Island flood control and drainage district 2005-2009 with focus on work with FEMA, Army Corps of Engineers and other federal agencies.

▶▶ Habitat for Humanity of Washington State, Board Chair, 2013-–Present (Board Chair 2017–present) ▶▶ City of Hillsboro Budget Committee–2016 ▶▶ Multnomah County Urban and Rural Zoning Taskforce–2010 ▶▶ West Multnomah Soil and Water Conversation District Budget Committee —2007–2009 ▶▶ Sauvie Island Fire Department Board of Directors—2008–2009

RELEVANT LIFE AND LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE MBA with focus in Nonprofit Management from University of Portland.

MAZAMAS ACTIVITY ▶▶ None

Personal Statement My beginning with Mazamas unfortunately started with a personal tragedy. My brother, Jared Townsley, a former Mazama, passed away on Mt Hood in February of 2012. While my brother and I had hiked and climbed together for many years, it wasn’t until after he died that I learned of the amazing community within the Mazamas. The outpouring of support both during and after his memorial service showed me how special of a community

the Mazamas are.

While I haven’t been as active with the Mazamas as I would like, I look forward to joining more activities as my two little boys grow up.

If I am elected to the Mazamas Executive Council, I will be honored to utilize my years of experience in the nonprofit field to further the impact of the organization.

Protecting and advocating for our outdoor spaces is vital to being good stewards of our land. I have spent the last several years advocating in Washington’s DC for affordable housing - and look forward to continuing to build those relationships with our lawmakers.

With two little ones, and a brother who passed too young, I also recognize the Mazamas critical role in educating the community in climbing and safety.

The more we can do to encourage and inspire others to reach for the mountain top and experience the outdoors, the stronger we will be as an organization.

Thank you for considering my candidacy for the Executive Council. Regardless if I am elected to the position, I look forward to continuing my brothers legacy and volunteering with the Mazamas for years to come.

Please note: Executive Council Candidate information has been standardized to fit a certain format, however no editing has been done. Other than formatting, the information is provided exactly as submitted by the candidates.

Stay Connected ▶Like ▶ us on Facebook: facebook.com/mazamas.pdx ▶Follow ▶ us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag us in your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶Subscribe ▶ to our blog: mazamas.blogspot.com ▶Read ▶ the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. ▶Advertise ▶ your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/ MazamasAds for details.

36 MAZAMAS

Robin Wilcox member since 2003

WORK/PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE Professionally I am a landscape architect/ recreation planner/project manager. For nearly 15 years, I worked as a consultant on public projects focused on recreation and active transportation across the country, and I now work for a state agency planning parks and trails projects to benefit all Oregonians (and our visitors) and protecting natural areas and cultural resources that make our state special.

As a project manager, I lead the public involvement processes and coordinate with our internal management and natural resources teams to ensure that we’re balancing recreation needs with local concerns, natural resources, and cultural resources. I am accustomed to maximizing the benefits of small budget projects by matching publicly available funds with private donations, corporate partnerships, and in-kind volunteer time.

BOARD AND/OR COMMITTEE EXPERIENCE IN OTHER ORGANIZATIONS ▶▶ Oregon chapter of American Society of Landscape Architects (OR ASLA): Vice President of Member Services (2 years, 2013-2015) and Communications Chair (2 years, 2005-2007)—Prepared

Fellows applications on behalf of the state chapter along with past Fellows; co-coordinated the annual ASLA Symposium and Chapter Awards event; prepared monthly member newsletter and authored a section of the Landscape Architects Guide to Portland ▶▶ National Park Service, Rivers and Trails Conservation Assistance program: Community Design Charette Organizer two years (Yamheles Westsider Trail, Yamhill County 2015 and Lewis and Clark Trail, Vancouver, WA 2017)—coordinated volunteers to assist community participants with developing plans for a trail in their community; coordinated event space and refreshments ▶▶ Trail Skills College Committee (3 years, 2008, 2009, 2010)— Arranged crew leaders and instructors, class schedule, scouted sites, and secured necessary tools and safety equipment

RELEVANT LIFE AND LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE For almost 15 years now I’ve played the standup bass. If I’m doing my job as a bass player, the other musicians are staying together and everyone listening is having a good time whether or not anyone knows I’m there. Most of the difficult work—learning new tunes or lugging around a giant instrument—takes place without anyone else even noticing. As the bass player, I’m not the one selecting tunes or standing front and center.

My approach to playing the bass matches my leadership style in the Mazamas, other organizations, and professionally. I’m a listener first, and I don’t mind doing the difficult work that ensures others have a great time. Whether that’s managing the logistics for a difficult multi-year project, mentoring, planning a climb, or running a climb school, I’m steady and often paying attention to the pulse of the group, and adjusting as we go to keep it fun.

MAZAMAS ACTIVITY ▶▶ BCEP Assistant (2008-2018) ▶▶ ICS Assistant (2009-2018) ▶▶ ICS Committee (2014-2018): Volunteer

Coordinator (2015-16), Class Coordinator (2016-17), Committee Chair (2017-18) ▶▶ AR Assistant (2013-2018) ▶▶ MFA Assistant (2010-2018) ▶▶ Climb Leader (2015-2018) ▶▶ Assisted with various youth and partner organizations climb evenings and events (2008-2018)

Personal Statement Though climbing and volunteering with the Mazamas has been a tremendously rewarding experience, I considered canceling my membership earlier this year. Instead, I spoke with friends, climb leaders, committee chairs, executive council reps, and staff members. Through these conversations, I realized my concerns were shared by other Mazamas; rather than walk away, I would like to try to make a difference by becoming more involved at a higher level. Within our organization, there is no higher level than joining Executive Council.

Balancing the climbing club mentality with the non-profit and advocacy direction of the current strategic plan has been challenging. There are more organizations and programs than ever teaching climbing skills or leading trips to Smith Rock and Mt Hood. Should we change the model of our programs to meet the increasing demand?

How can we ensure outdoor areas we depend on are available to us in the future?

Why are these issues the Mazamas should even be worried about?

Climbing and outdoor recreation are more popular than ever, but our membership base remains relatively stagnant. How do we remain relevant to a changing outdoor demographic?

My interest in serving as a member of Executive Council stems from my desire to improve communication between the leadership of our organization and members to answer the questions above. I hope to see Mazamas play a significant stewardship role for the outdoor spaces and mountains we all love, and strengthen our commitment to diversifying our organization so new climbers feel encouraged to join our community.

AUGUST 2018 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting date is Tuesday, Aug. 21. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting by sending an email to adventure@mazamas.org and making a request.

by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager President Chris Kruell called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 4:10 p.m. on Tuesday, July 19. Chris reviewed the meeting’s agenda and asked for approval. A voice vote approved the agenda. Secretary Traci Manning asked for and received approval for the revised minutes from the June meeting. In the Treasurer’s Report, Marty Scott noted that at the end of May total operating revenue is $872,853 and total operating expenses are $1,197,935.

Current total assets are $1,135.391. Income and expenses are both tracking under projections, at 11 percent and 12 percent respectively. Total membership as of the end of May 2018 stands at 3,484.

In his Executive Director’s report, Lee Davis noted that the annual audit is underway. A representative from the audit firm will present their findings to the board at the August meeting. In other internal reporting, Lee noted that online membership renewals have begun. He is working with Erica Stock, Mazama Development Director, to improve relationships with long-term donors. Adventure WILD! day camp is winding down and has been a great success this year. The camp will end on budget and brainstorming has begun for next year. The Mazamas is helping to sell the climbing equipment acquired by member Alex Edward, who died on Mt. Adams earlier this year. The Mazamas will return the proceeds to his family. Patrick Blanchard, Trail Stewardship Coordinator, recently completed trail work on the Mazama Trail.

He is working with the Forest Service to identify other trail projects.

In external reporting, Lee shared a set of common principles recently adopted by the Outdoor Recreation Industry. Lee, along with Justin Rotherham and Sarah Bradham, will travel to the Outdoor Retailer show in Denver. While there, Lee will meet with other outdoor leaders, Justin will work on developing UIAA standards, and Sarah will meet with corporate sponsors to create and foster relationships.

Following his director’s report, Lee shared with the board the Mazama Lodge 38 MAZAMAS

renovation funding plan and an official request to the Mazamas Foundation. The request covers phase one of the Lodge renovation, including architect contracts, permits, reimbursable costs, and a ten percent contingency buffer for unexpected expenses. Also included in the request are funds for improvements to the HVAC system at the MMC and deferred maintenance on the Smith Rock property. Lee asked for, and received, board authorization to submit the request to the Foundation and to sign the contract with Walsh Construction before the August meeting. Lee then touched on the recently completed Change Management Plan final report. He noted that progress is being made to address the issues raised in the report. He will present further details at the August meeting.

Treasurer Marty Scott then introduced the discussion on the future of education at the Mazamas. She asked the board to enter into the conversation with an open mind and to respect differences of opinion. Sarah informed the board that the December 2016 Market/Environmental Scan and the May 2017 Mazamas Member and Community Survey influenced the draft plan. Lee then talked about the Mazamas vision for educational programming. He noted that the Mazamas are at risk of losing relevance because of slow change and innovation in the core program-service model.

Justin then presented a draft plan for the future of Mazama Educational Programs.

He began by affirming the Mazamas commitment to traditional education and activity programs for the 2018–2019 program year. The plan acknowledges that many Mazamas programs and activities are under threat. Reduced access to public lands, conflicts between user groups, waning leadership, and burnout are few of the causes.

Justin stated that the draft plan has drawn information from a wide range of sources including the 2015 Mazamas Climbing Leadership Development and Retention Report (Kosseff Report), the 2016 Mazamas Market/Environmental Scan, the

Mountaineers 2017 Progressive Climbing Education Report, and the 2017 Mazama Member and Community Engagement Survey conducted by MDC Research. The plan has a foundation in community and peer groups where people gather to recreate, socialize, and mentor each other. On top of this are Mazama-supported, volunteeroperated education programs that provide structured educational opportunities. The third tier of the plan calls for internal and external leadership training provided by professionals and volunteers, organized and delivered by the Mazamas. The fourth and final tier lays out higher education degree and certificate programs in the outdoor recreation field. Justin acknowledged that the fourth tier is aspirational now, but serves as a vision of the future. Sarah ended the strategic topic discussion with a review of potential risks to the program as presented.

She reported that the lack of alignment and agreement on a business strategy at the board level would imperil the plan due to changing project goals and priorities.

The public part of the meeting ended with Lee noting that the Mazamas have been a non-profit for a long time. He then led a discussion about the differences between a club and a non-profit organization. The fundamental difference centers on the distinction between service to members (club) and service to the community (nonprofit). Lee remarked that in answering most questions, the answers are very different if answered from the perspective of a nonprofit organization or a club. He implored the board to get behind one or the other as the future of the Mazamas, and its educational programs, is at risk.

The meeting then adjourned into executive session. No members chose to speak during the member comment period.

The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, August 21, at 4 p.m.

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*Love is a verb; without action, it is merely a word.

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We contribute and work with trail advocacy organizations throughout the west to ensure you and your next generations have more and better access to these treasures.

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2018 marks the 6th year of the Portland Alpine Fest (PAF) and this year will be better than ever!

Look for more details and tickets on Sept. 1, 2018 at portlandalpinefest.org.

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Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon

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CLINICS | SPEAKER SERIES | THE SUMMIT | PORTLAND ICE COMP