January 2018 Vol. 100 | No. 1
Surviving a Whiteout After the Smoke Clears Mazamas2020
Bulletin
4.8oz. φ 3.9 x 5.5 in
FEATURES Get Stoked!, p. 4 Mazamas2020: The Mazamas Embark on an Ambitious 3-year Strategic Plan, p. 8 The Mazama Used Equipment Sale Returns!, p. 10 New Year’s Resolutions, p. 11 After the Smoke Clears: Optimism About Recovery in the Gorge, p. 14 What’s New in the Library?. p. 17 The Best Navigation Device? Man’s Best Friend, p. 19 Whiteout: Know When to Bail, p. 21 Saying Goodbye: Robert Peirce, p. 30
MONTHLY CONTENT Events & Activities, p. 5 Volunteer, p. 7 Successful Climbers, p. 10 Membership Report, p. 10 Mazama Lodge, p. 22 Outings, p. 23
Evening Programs, p. 24 AYM, p. 25 Classics, p. 26 Executive Council, p. 27 Trail Trips, p. 28
ADVERTISER INDEX
CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon LEE DAVIS Executive Director lee@mazamas.org
LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator, laura@mazamas.org
CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager claire@mazamas.org
SARAH BRADHAM, Marketing & Communications Director, sarah@mazamas.org
CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
ADAM BAYLOR Stewardship & Advocacy Manager, adam@mazamas.org
RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator renee@mazamas.org
JUSTIN ROTHERHAM Education & Activities Program Manager justin@mazamas.org
MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager, mathew@mazamas.org
MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator molly@mazamas.org
KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator, kelsey@mazamas.org
Bend Marathon, p.15 Centered in Motion, p. 22 Climb for Clean Air, p. 18 Embark, p. 16 Green Trails, p. 32 Montbell, p. 2 Next Adventure, p. 6
The Mountain Shop, p. 31 OMC, p. 42 Ravensview Capital Management, p. 26 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising
PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE
Editor: Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications (mazamabulletin@mazamas.org) Committee: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Jonathan Barrett, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, and Kristie Perry. Above (from top): Tyler Bax in the early morning light on Mt. Hood. Tyler heads up Devil’s Kitchen Variation 2 on Mt. Hood. Cover: Tyler Bax topping out on Wy’east after completing Variation 2 on Devil’s Kitchen Headwall on Mt. Hood. Photos: Howie Davis.
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the
14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
JANUARY 2018 3
Get
! d e k o
St
by Preston Corless, Executive Council member
H
ave you ever dreaded that inescapable cocktail party question of “what do you do?” I have, until now. I now have a new answer to that question. “I’m with the Mazamas.” “Oh. What does that mean?”
Every year we introduce hundreds of people to mountains and climbing. It’s a craft that engages us for a lifetime, and rewards us with endless possibilities. We lead hundreds of entry-level climbs on our Pacific Northwest peaks. Last year we introduced a thousand kids to the outdoors. Think about that. We ski off the summit. We climb big walls. We do expedition style climbs in Alaska and Nepal. We climb alpine style in Patagonia. We do first ascents. We form a vibrant community of doers, mentors, teachers, students. Imagine my pride and fulfillment when two of my past students—Katie Mills and Rebecca Madore—went out and climbed the Moose’s Tooth in Alaska. Our students become our rope guns. Our climbing partners become lifelong friends. I’m stoked to be part of the Mazamas because of what we’re doing and where we’re going. We’re not standing still, and we’re not letting go of our rich tradition. We have a lot of exciting stuff in the works. We’re doing a lot of amazing things as a climbing community. We could have a Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock as early as this time next year. You have a strong staff and Executive Council. They are more than just administrators keeping the lights on. They’re volunteers, friends, climbing partners, leaders, AMGA guides. They are experts at what they do. We have a vision of everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains. We’ve organized around this vision with our next strategic plan, Mazamas2020, with teams focused on
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Education, Activities, Advocacy and Stewardship, Youth and Community Outreach, and Culture and Information. These teams are comprised of volunteers, staff, and Executive Council members. We’ve invested in staff and IT resources in an effort to extend our impact in the climbing community, the Pacific Northwest, and at the national level, and to make life easier on our volunteers. We’re working hard to further the bold vision of our founders. In February 2017, before I was an Executive Council member I had the opportunity to attend the American Alpine Club annual dinner with some of your staff and council members. The dinner honored big names who’ve been in the climbing scene a long time: Mark Twight, Conrad Anker, Mark Ritchey, and Kris McDivitt Tompkins. As the night progressed a common theme emerged—none of these people talked much about climbing. They talked a lot about climbing partners, mentors, friends, and, most of all, they talked about community. I’ve certainly come to value these things more than the climbing experience itself. In the long term, I think the greatest value we offer to our members and neighbors is this community. I recently finished the book, The Long Way by Bernard Moitessier (a staff pick at Powell’s). He sailed around the world single-handed in the late 60s, long before the age of GPS and satellite phones—he didn’t even have a radio. He navigated with charts, a compass, and a sextant. Bernard communicated by sling-shooting
messages to passing freighters. His course took him west to east around the Cape of Good Hope, Tasmania, New Zealand, and Cape Horn, Patagonia. Too far south and he ran the danger of icebergs, too far north brought rocks and bad winds. His story is analogous of our journey. We could veer too far in one direction and get stuck in the doldrums, becoming irrelevant as the world passes us by. We could go too far in the other direction and lose our climbing soul. The Mazamas have a history of doing good in the Pacific Northwest. We have mapped our mountains, we have helped protect our lands, and we have helped teach countless individuals how to scale mountain peaks. We are still needed today. Perhaps, even more than ever before. We are doing good and we will continue to do good. Our public lands are under threat, from politics and from popularity. We’re in a leadership role as advocates and stewards of these natural treasures. We build trails and we build consensus—the will to do the right thing for future generations. I’m stoked to be a part of this good, and to do it through sharing our love of the mountains and the brother/sisterhood of the rope. What’s not to love about doing good by doing something you love? As we launch Mazamas2020, our next 3-year strategic plan, I look forward to working with all of you as we begin to serve our community at a level we never have before. Let’s go climb high.
EVENTS & ACTIVITIES EXPEDITION GRANTS
Applications Due Jan. 15
If you’re planning an expedition/ climbing trip next year, why not apply for an expedition grant? The Expedition Committee could help make it happen with a grant, loaner gear or training.
OPEN CLIMB
Practice Skills at the MMC
Come and practice your skills on the instructional rock and ice walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The purpose of these sessions is for practice and training. No instruction will be supplied; all climbers are expected to have prior training. Special ice tools will be available for use on the ice wall. ▶▶ Prerequisite: Prior participation in Mazama climbing schools and/or the ability to demonstrate proper belay technique. ▶▶ Dates: Jan. 21, Feb. 11 ▶▶ Hours: 9 a.m.–4 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $10 (cash only) Funds to go to climbing wall costs, holds, and foam.
BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM (BCEP) INFO NIGHT
Feb. 1, 6:30–8:30 p.m. at the MMC
BCEP teaches you everything you need to know to get started in the world of mountaineering and Info Night will give you the details you need to know if the program is a good fit for you.
NORTHWEST RIVERS
Feb. 2, 7 p.m. at the MMC
An evening of three films sponsored by the Mazama Conservation Committee. Event is free; suggested donation of $5 to Pacific Rivers. See page 15 for more details.
CLIMB LEADER DINNER
Thursday, Jan. 18, 6:30 p.m. at the MMC The Mazama Climbing Committee would like to invite all Mazama climb leaders, provisional leaders and leadership development candidates to a dinner in their honor. Spouses, domestic partners and significant others are also invited. RSVP by Jan. 11 at tinyurl. com/2018-CLNight
RESEARCH GRANT
Proposals Due Jan. 28
The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments. The Mazama Research Committee is now accepting research grant proposals for funding in 2018. More details: tinyurl. com/MazResearch.
BACKCOUNTRY FILM FEST
Feb. 3, 7 p.m. at the MMC
This always popular event returns to Portland for one night only! The Mazamas and Winter Wildlands Alliance join forces to bring you a powder-filled night to remember. Adventure, environment and climate, youth outdoors, ski culture—you’ll find it all in this award-winning lineup. There will also be a gear-filled raffle! Tickets are $12, purchase online at tinyurl.com/ MazBackcountry.
MOUNTAINFILM ON TOUR
March 8 at Revolution Hall
Portland Mountain Rescue is hosting the Mountainfilm on Tour at Revolution Hall! Come out for an evening of epic outdoor documentary films, prizes, drinks, mingle with Portland’s outdoor culture, and meet the volunteer rescuers. All proceeds go to support PMR’s nonprofit mission. Doors open at 6 p.m. and show starts at 7 p.m. Tickets are $17 in advance and $22 at the door. tinyurl.com/PMRMountainfilm
BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FEST
Feb 2, 3 at the Kiggins Theatre (Vancouver, WA) April 13, 14, 15 at Revolution Hall April 20, 21, 22 at Cinema 21 There are three nights of unique line-ups featuring the latest adrenaline inducing, cinematic adventure stories to date! There are three opportunities in the Portland Metro area this year for the Banff Mountain Film Fest due to popular demand. ▶▶ Kiggins tickets: brownpapertickets.com/ event/3070610 ▶▶ Cinema 21: Tickets go on sale Jan. 10 at Portland Metro REI locations. ▶▶ Revolution Hall: Tickets go on sale Jan. 10 at Portland Metro REI locations.
USED EQUIPMENT SALE
March 30, 5–8 p.m. at the MMC
The Used Equipment Sale (UES) is an annual event. Sellers can clear out their unused gear and make some cash, and buyers can snap up field-tested equipment at great prices! Get full details on page 10.
JANUARY 2018 5
VOLUNTEER & AWARDS EVENING WEDNESDAY, APRIL 25, 6–9 P.M. We are bringing back one of our most popular events from last year—the Volunteer Recognition & Awards Evening: A Mazama Celebration. We are excited to bring everyone together for this evening focused solely on Mazama achievements and volunteerism. Let us know if you plan to attend by filling out this form: tinyurl.com/Maz2018-VolAwards Once we have the ticket system up and running we will send everyone who indicated interest the link to register.
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES NEW WEBSITE: DATA ENTRY HELP We will be launching the new Mazama website in February 2018. We could use some data entry helpers to get us to our launching point. This volunteer role entails reviewing, editing, and adding information to our new Salesforce database, as well as managing data in Excel and Google Sheets. Interested? Email sarah@mazamas.org
MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID (MFA) INSTRUCTORS We are looking for MFA instructors with advanced wilderness medicine training, i.e., Wilderness First Responder or equivalent. Instructors will work with the First Aid Committee to deliver the lectures and field sessions based on our MFA curriculum. Email firstaid@mazamas.org if you are interested.
PLASTIC RECYCLING: NEW CHALLENGES In the midst of the collapse of the international plastics recycling market there has emerged a small ray of hope right here in Portland. Agilyx Corporation in Tigard has been accepting block Styrofoam for recycling for several years. Now they have begun to accept all #6 polystyrene products at their dropoff site. This includes the following items : Bike helmets Foam clamshells #6 transparent clamshells Foam egg cartons Keurig containers CD cases (not the CDs)
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Foam meat trays Seed and plant flats Cookie and cracker trays Non-compostable plastic silverware Solo brand plastic cups
In other encouraging news, as of January 1, 2018 the Bottle Bill will expand to include bottles and cans for tea, coffee, fruit juice, coconut water, hard cider and kombucha, in addition to the beer, soft drink and water containers already accepted.
RESEARCH GRANTS REQUEST FOR PROPOSALS The Mazama Research Committee is now accepting research grant proposals for funding in 2018. The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments. We support scientific research, including the collection and dissemination of scientific information regarding mountain and wilderness environments. Research of geologic features, biological communities, and human endeavors pertaining to the understanding, enjoyment and safety of outdoor recreation are some of the relevant research topics supported by the Mazamas. All information regarding Mazamas research grants, including the Request for Proposals and Application Instructions, can be found at tinyurl.com/MazResearch.
PROPOSAL DEADLINE JAN. 28
Photo: F X DeRuydts
EXPEDITION GRANTS
WHY NOT APPLY FOR A MAZAMA EXPEDITION GRANT? If you’re planning an expedition/ climbing trip next year, why not apply for an expedition grant? The Expedition Committee could help make it happen with a grant or loaner gear. Also, applications will be accepted for climbing trips not necessarily considered an “expedition.” The intent is to create an opportunity for Mazamas to gain experience and develop the skills leading to bigger trips in the future. Go to the Mazamas website and select Activities + Events > Expeditions to learn more and submit your application. We’ve extended the Fred Beckey grant application deadline to March 30. For information and/or questions, email the expedition committee at expedition@mazamas.org.
APPLICATION DEADLINE JAN. 15 JANUARY 2018 7
Mazamas2020
T
he Mazamas are embarking on a new vision for our future. It’s BIG. It’s BOLD. It’s Mazamas2020.
The world of outdoor recreation is rapidly changing. There are more people getting outdoors. There are increased threats to our wild places. And there are barriers for many of our youth to take advantage of outdoor recreation opportunities. The Mazamas is uniquely poised to take on these challenges and make a lasting difference for our community. Throughout 2017 the Mazamas leadership team surveyed our membership, the community, and hosted listening sessions with key volunteers within our organization. Mazamas2020 is the result of that work. Mazamas2020 focuses on five core initiatives: Education, Activities & Events, Stewardship & Advocacy, Youth & Community Outreach, and Culture & Information. Each of these five core initiatives consist of a goal statement and strategies to support that goal. Over the next few months you’ll see additional details about Mazamas2020—in this magazine, on the Mazama website, and through our weekly e-news. We are excited to begin this work, and to engage all of you in accomplishing these important goals. 8 MAZAMAS
EDUCATION
1
2
ACTIVITIES & EVENTS
GOAL Modernize and expand the Mazamas outdoor education programs to be scalable and relevant to our broader community, always inspired by mountaineering and rooted in our values.
GOAL Expand the capacity of the Mazamas activity programs and events to create more shared experiences and opportunities in the outdoors, and to inspire and unite our community.
STRATEGIES
STRATEGIES
1
Support and expand 1 traditional Mazama activity programs to create equitable and inclusive experiences in the outdoors for everyone each year.
Support and directly 2 participate in efforts to create unified national standards for outdoor education and outdoor leadership.
Pilot and scale alternate 2 program models for activities to add capacity where traditional programs do not meet community or market demand.
Design and build the future of Mazama education programs to be values based, modern, scalable, and relevant to our broader community.
Host community social 3 events to support existing members and to invite and engage our broader community.
Stabilize and maintain the capacity of traditional Mazama education programs while enhancing program quality and safety.
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3 4 5
STEWARDSHIP & ADVOCACY
YOUTH & COMMUNITY OUTREACH
CULTURE & INFORMATION
GOAL Lead our state and region in advocating for the benefits and interests of responsible outdoor recreation, and strongly support the stewardship and conservation of our public lands.
GOAL Lead our state and region in transforming our youth and community members into engaged outdoor citizens, advocates, and educators through values based programming.
GOAL Lead the preservation and promotion of Pacific Northwest mountain culture and widely share the story of the Mazamas.
STRATEGIES
STRATEGIES
STRATEGIES
Support and engage in 1 outdoor recreation and conservation policy work at the national, regional, and local level.
Stabilize and expand the 1 Mazamas outdoor school programming in partnership with state and regional partners.
Expand and maintain our 1 Library and Historical Collections with a focus on protecting and sharing the story of the Mazamas and the mountains of the Pacific Northwest.
Lead efforts to make 2 Oregon a national leader in supporting and advocating for the importance, benefits, and interests of outdoor recreation and our public lands.
Develop inclusive local 2 youth, community, and business outreach programs that engage and support families and our broader community.
Invest in marketing and 2 outreach efforts to build awareness, accessibility, and support for the Mazamas and to promote Pacific Northwest mountain culture.
Support our partners 3 in creating sustainable stewardship programs in our state and region to develop and maintain the Pacific Northwest’s outdoor recreation infrastructure.
Research and develop pilot 3 programs to increase the accessibility and relevance of Mazama programs for diverse and under-resourced communities.
Leverage and enhance 3 the Mazamas information technology infrastructure to advance Mazama programs, improve operational effectiveness, and expand communications.
JANUARY 2018 9
MAZAMA
USED EQUIPMENT SALE: MARCH 30 DROPOFF: MARCH 29
SALE
▶▶ Date: Thursday, March 30, 5 p.m.–6 p.m. for Mazama members and students in climb classes; 6–8 p.m. for the general public. ▶▶ Gear Drop-off for Sale: March 29, 4 p.m.–8 p.m. ▶▶ Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Ore. Clear out your gear room! Make way for more! The Used Equipment Sale (UES) is an annual event. Sellers can make some money by letting go of unused gear and buyers can get great deals on field-tested equipment. Nordic and telemark ski gear, snowshoes, all kinds of outdoor clothing, assorted (and we do mean assorted!) camping and backpacking gear, shoes and boots, books and technical climbing gear will all be available. This is a great chance to clean out your gear room of unneeded stuff, make a buck, help out the Mazamas and find some great deals yourself. Mazamas accepts cash, checks or Visa and Mastercard.
WHAT SHOULD YOU DO IF YOU’D LIKE TO SELL SOMETHING? ▶▶ Look in your gear closet for sale-able equipment or clothing you aren’t using or have upgraded. ▶▶ Price it reasonably and it will sell; you’ll keep 70 percent of all proceeds. ▶▶ Pick up price tags and tally sheets at the MMC starting Feb. 24. ▶▶ Mark your calendars for March 29 from 4–8 p.m. to drop off items for the sale. ▶▶ Pickup of leftover items is Saturday, March 31. If leftover items are not picked up on Saturday they will be donated to charity. Once again, we’ll be collecting warm clothing for Mainspring ( formerly FISH Emergency Services) to distribute to those in need. For questions, email ues@mazamas.org or visit the website tinyurl.com/maz-usedsale
WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members:........................................................................ 16 Dawn Baker, Mt. St. Helens David Brown, Old Snowy Benjamin Friesen, Mt. Hood Jeremy Galarneaux, North Sister Thatcher Gordon, Mt. St. Helens Nolan Hamar, Mt. Hood Karol Kochsmeier, Mt. Hood Christina Luchetta, Mt. Hood Wesley McCain, Denali
Elaine Morlock, Mt. St. Helens Reynold Orchard, South Sister Chalunthorn Schaeffer, Mt. St. Helens Patrick Thoits, Mt. Adams Robert Vanneste, South Sister Mary Whitsell, Mt. Rainier Stephen Wilson, Mt. Hood
Reinstatements:........................................................................ 1 James Wende (2014)
Deceased:................................................................................ 2 Robert “Bob” Peirce (1956) and Robert Anderson (1947)
Total Membership as of Nov. 30: 2017—3,721; 2016—3,709 10 MAZAMAS
SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS Aug. 19, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Mark Curran. Eric Dattoli, Forest Fogarty, Matt Fogarty, Blair Grimmer, Jack Kuo, Joseph York, Cynthia House Dec. 8, Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Suresh Singh. Julie Kentosh, Stephen Zadrozny, Nathan Berry Dec. 11, Mt. Hood, Mazama Chute. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Alex Lockard. Ahmed Aissi, Aimee Filimoehala, Chaitanya Sathe
New Year’s Resolutions by Jonathan Barrett
A
lmost half of us will make a New Year’s resolution in January. Unfortunately only about 8% of those people will actually follow through on it. I am not going to be that guy in 2018. In the past my resolutions have been too large and too abstract: drink less beer, smile more, keep a journal. This time, I have some ideas for New Year’s resolutions that are much more achievable because they are climbing-related which should motivate me to actually attain my goals. Here they are in no particular order. CLIMB 5.17 Yes, I know what you are thinking. What about 5.16? I’m going to skip it. As most of the world knows, Adam Ondra recently sent his “Project Hard” in Flatanger, Norway giving it the grade of 5.15d. This garnered attention from a diversity of news sites such as CNN, which called it the “world’s hardest climb.” I figure that even if my route does get down-graded by Ashima Shiraishi, there won’t be any bickering about whether it is actually any more difficult than the previous top grade. Oh, and if there is going to be any doubt, I am going to name the route “Project Hardest,” because, well, it is going to be more harder.
GET RIPPED As we all know—thanks to illustrious publications like Men’s Health which recently ran the headline “A Killer Core Helped This Guy Cliff the World’s Hardest Cliff ”—having ridiculous abs is the key to climbing hard. I was thinking of getting a six-pack, but my mom always encouraged me to dream big. So I changed it to at least a ten-pack. Maybe an eleven-pack. The problem with getting ripped, though, is that when you gain muscle you gain weight which climbers are loathe to do. Maybe my New Year’s resolution should be to defy the laws of physics by putting more muscle on my frame without changing my weight. Yeah, that’s perfect! As for how I am going to achieve this, someone once told me that “abs are made in the kitchen,” so I figure that’s where I should start.
EAT BETTER I have tried to follow Michael Pollan’s advice: “Eat food, not too much, mostly plants,” but it hasn’t seemed to help. For some reason my steady consumption of chips and salsa, french fries, kimchi, and overly ripe bananas was not helping me reach my true athletic potential. Those abs weren’t chiseling themselves. Digging
around the interwebs, I found an eating strategy that I think is going to help me finally send “Project Hardest” in the new year. Basically all I need to do is not eat meat except as a protein source within forty minutes of the end of my workouts, blend all of the fruits and vegetables typically found in an entire Whole Foods produce aisle into a smoothie that I can carry around in my Hydro Flask, and then fast on days that are spelled with an odd number of letters. The only problem that I foresee is being able to afford the Hydro Flask. Those things are stupid expensive.
BE MORE MODEST Yes, it’s true. I should probably stop telling people that I have fourteen different pro-deals because not everyone has the good fortune to buy gear at a 60 percent discount off wholesale prices. It’s just hard though. My 170,000 Instagram followers have come to expect a lot from me, and it would be a shame to disappoint them. For some reason they expect me to be providing succinct and up-to-date reviews on cutting edge equipment that I helped to design and test. Then there are folks in the gym who have recently read my New York Times best-seller about my philanthropic work with Nepalese Sherpa orphans who are trying to make a living by guiding on Everest. I should probably just stop offering to autograph their copies. You know, have a lower profile. Maybe I should spend more time living the #simplelife in my #vanlife. As my good buddy Steve House once reminded me over a cup tea while hanging out Nanga Parbat basecamp, “the simpler you make things, the richer the experience becomes.” I love that guy. So wise.
HAVE A LOWER ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT Let’s face it. Climbing is a resource intensive sport. Most gear is constructed from man-made polymers and has a
limited lifespan. There are many things that I can do to help reverse global climate change as a climber. First, I am going to only use either metal equipment that has an infinite lifespan or natural materials that can be composted. I still can’t decide though whether I would rather have alpine slings made from either organic Yak hair or steel. Second, I am going to bicycle to all my climbing destinations. I’ve done Hood from Portland by bike before, and it wasn’t too bad. This spring, I will just have to figure out how to pedal to Bishop with my crash pad to go bouldering for my weeklong spring break vacation.
HAVE MORE FUN Alex Lowe once quipped that the best climber is the one having the most fun. It’s true that even though hang-dogging my “Project Hardest” week after week is nonstop laughs for both my belayer and me, there is always room to make my climbing trips more fun. Here are a few ideas that I have been kicking around. Tell more jokes, particularly knock-knock and dad jokes because people love them, right? Bring a musical instrument like a guitar on light and fast alpine climbs so that I can sing camp songs as a way to distract my partner and I from the frigid conditions of an open bivy. Wear more costumes, particularly ones that involve rubber masks and furry gloves. Be utterly psyched when I clip the first draw. Why the first? Because it means I am leading, and leading is awesome! Do multipitch climbs as a team of four, or even five. This way I will always have a person to tell a knock-knock joke to while chilling on the belay ledge. Bring snacks. After all, working “Project Hardest” is going to take some time, and maintaining a good blood sugar level is critical for upping the fun factor, just one more reason why I am planning on bringing more watermelons.
JANUARY 2018 11
New
Coming Soon!
Mazama Website The Mazamas are due to launch our new website within the next few months. This new website is set to bring exciting new functionality to the Mazamas. We want you all to be ready for the launch, and there are a few things you need to know to ensure success! All class & activity registration will be online, including climbs, hikes, outings, and educational programs All class & activity management will take place online Each website user must have their own unique email address, if you currently share an email address now is a good time to get your own. Mazama activity participation will be tracked in your online profile (new activities) Mazama training and some relevant external training will be managed through the new badge system
NEXT STEPS We are currently testing features, and reporting bugs and user interface improvements to the web developers. This work is being done by a team of Mazama web ambassadors who have a variety of different experience levels both with the Mazamas and with technology, as well as by staff.
Some of your Mazama history MAY be a part of your profile upon launch, but it will not be a complete history as we don’t currently have a mechanism to track your Mazama history.
We have completed a test migration of data in our current database (basic contact information, membership status, basic classic descriptions, some hikes and climbs) into the new Salesforce database.
You will be able to view a complete calendar of Mazama activities, including climbs, hikes, classes, AYM events, Classics events, and more in ONE location—the searchable online Mazama calendar
We are reviewing the data migration steps and will do the final transfer of data the first week of January. At that time the staff will transition onto the new database.
CHANGE IS COMING!
We are reviewing and, in some cases, rewriting our current website content in order to populate the new site.
The new Mazama website is going to dramatically change the way in which you engage with the Mazamas. From signing up for an activity to managing a class or signing up for a volunteer role, it will ALL be new! We have been working hard to make the new website simple to use and intuitive to all users. We are excited to bring you this new functionality, and we want you to be prepared for the upcoming changes! Whether you are an activity participant, class coordinator, or activity leader you will need to learn how to navigate our new website and work within our new system. While we have devoted a significant amount of time to usability, you will still need to be prepared to spend some time getting used to a new system. We will be sending regular emails to our email list on the upcoming changes, so if you aren’t already receiving our emails, we recommend signing up here: tinyurl.com/MazSignUp
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Many pages on our current site will not move over to our new site. We have used Google analytics to review hit rates on our current site. Pages that have minimal activity will not be moved over to the new site. We will have a phased launch to the new site; the first experience will be for BCEP registration. Expect to begin using the new site in mid to late March. Our old site will remain available for approximately 6-months after we full transition to the new site; however, it will not be updated after we launch our new site.
Climb Card
Round Up Starting with the 2018 spring/summer climbing season Climb Cards will become obsolete. So what should you do with your unused cards?
Option 1: Donate! Donate your unused cards to Mazama programs. Donations may be directed to Core Mazama Programs, Library & Historical Collections, Youth Outdoor Education, or Stewardship & Advocacy. We will send you a donation letter confirming the amount of your tax deductible donation. Thanks in advance!
Option 2: Credit Hold onto your cards until April/May 2018. We will have a credit system in the new website that will allow us to credit your new account with the value of any unused cards. You can then use that credit towards any Mazama activity.
Option 3: Refund Request a refund. Refunds are provided by check and take approximately 2–4 weeks to arrive. Climb Cards must be dropped off or mailed to the Mazamas. When mailing include your name, address, phone number and email address so we can contact if you if we have any questions. All donations, credits, and refunds for Climb Cards must be submitted by July 31, 2018.
Did you know?
The current climb card process started in 1976 and has undergone very few changes during the last 41 years. The card itself got a bit longer, and the liability waiver received a significant overhaul, but overall the process has been unchanged for 4 decades. Value: Gray cards—Member & BCEP, $20; Nonmember, $30. Blue/Yellow Cards: $15/$20. Cards must be unused, for a cancelled climb, or for an activity for which you were not accepted. Cards that have the CC or COMP box have no cash value and cannot be accepted.
ou ar
2018 Climb Application Process 1. Go to the new Mazama website (we’ll let you know when it is up and running!) 2. Create or update your account (anyone who has been a member in the last 10 years will already have an account, you’ll just need to change your password) 3. Complete your profile, including past climbing history, training, etc ... 4. Review the climb schedule 5. Apply for any climbs you are interested in and qualified for; you will be prompted to enter a credit card to apply 6. When you are accepted on a climb your credit card will be charged (but not until you are accepted!) 7. Login to your Mazama account to see your climb team and prospectus 8. If you need to cancel, hit the withdraw button and confirm that you need to withdraw from the climb JANUARY 2018 13
AFTER THE SMOKE Optimism about CLEARS: Recovery in the Gorge by Kate Evans, Conservation Committee Co-Chair
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nitial heartbreak over September’s massive wildfire in the Columbia River Gorge has given way to guarded optimism. That was my takeaway after attending a special Eagle Creek Fire forum, After the Smoke Clears, in Portland on November 15. Sponsored by several advocacy groups, including the Mazamas, the event provided insight into wildfires and how we can best support Gorge recovery.
Several speakers stressed how fire is a natural process and it’s best to let nature recover naturally. Bark’s Brenna Bell, the moderator, explained how the Chinook used fire to cultivate their huckleberries. Michael Lang from Friends of the Columbia Gorge discussed the extensive devastation on both sides of the Gorge following the 1902 Yacolt Burn and how the forest healed. Crag Law Center’s Ralph Bloemers introduced a post-fire flyover film by Trip Jennings that diagnosed the Eagle Creek fire as being a “good fire from an ecological standpoint” and “a reset button” rather than a disaster. Dominick DellaSala from the Geos Institute talked about fire as nature’s phoenix, and how forests need fire to survive. Fire regenerates forests; as he put it, “pyrodiversity begets biodiversity.” The word mosaic may best describe the fire’s impact in the Gorge, captured in Jennings’ flyover film. Lang said the U.S. Forest Service’s Burn Area Emergency Response (BAER) team determined that of 49,000 acres burned only 15 percent were severely burned and 55 percent had “little to no fire impact.” In the Friends’ Winter Newsletter Lang reported, “What has emerged is not a scorched earth landscape, but a mosaic of intact forests, moderately burned areas, and severely burned areas located on ridge tops.”
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What can we, individually, do to help the Gorge recover? Many of you may want to get out and rebuild trails, pull out invasive species, plant trees. These activities will have to wait a while. The Forest Service needs to assess what needs to be done, and then supervise any work. No trail work will start before spring. If you are interested in volunteer work, got to gorgefriends.org/ firestewardship. Friends of the Gorge, Trailkeepers of Oregon, the Pacific Crest Trail Association, and the Washington Trail Association will organize trail building and stewardship work parties this spring and summer; training and courses to get you prepared will also be offered. Another way to help the Gorge is to support the local communities so severely impacted. The Friends group has emphasized this as part of its Gorge Resilience Initiative. Caroline Park, co-owner of Cascade Locks-based Thunder Island Brewing Co., helped to create a GoFundMe page that raised more than $23,000 for local firefighters, and set up CascadeLocksStrong.com, with holiday gift certificates available from Gorge merchants. Consider shopping on this site or, better yet, shopping in the Gorge. Finally, one of the most important actions you can take is to oppose two misguided bills introduced in Congress. Oregon U.S. Rep. Greg Walden’s salvage logging bill, HB 3715, would require
the Forest Service to develop plans for commercial logging in the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area without any environmental review. Speaker after speaker on November 15 spoke about how destructive this would be, as it would hasten logging without appropriate review, restrict public input, and prohibit court challenges. Walden’s bill would undo a century of protection in the Mark O. Hatfield Wilderness, off-limits to logging since 1915, and create a dangerous precedent for undermining other wilderness protections. As Lang writes in the Friends’ Winter Newsletter, “Post-fire logging would be far more devastating to Gorge ecosystems than the fires were.” For further information go to: tinyurl.com/CragLawVideo. Another poor bill is Arkansas U.S. Rep. Bruce Westerman’s HB 2936, which Sean Stevens of Oregon Wild calls “Walden on steroids across the nation.” It triples logging levels and guts environmental reviews. Let both Senators Wyden and Merkley know that you oppose both HB 3715 and HB 2936. Let’s all work together to help our beloved Gorge recover—the way it should.
NORTHWEST RIVERS AN EVENING OF THREE FILMS FRIDAY, FEB. 2, 7 P.M. AT THE MMC
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Kate Evans, Conservation Committee Chair here is the Eel River and why should I care about it? Why is Shane Anderson’s title at Pacific Rivers Director of Storytelling? How is the Deschutes River in peril? What does “Naimuni” mean? For the answers to these questions come to the Mazama Mountaineering Center on Friday, February 2 at 7 p.m. to see three films first shown to a sold-out crowd at the September Portland Eco Film Festival. The first and longest film (68 minutes) is A River’s Last Chance: A Story of Salmon, Timber, Weed and Wine along California’s Mighty Eel River. Directed by Shane Anderson, a fisherman turned filmmaker, this visually stunning documentary shows decades of abusive logging and fishing practices in the 3,600-mile Eel River watershed. The recent drought and water intensive
wine and marijuana industries have also drastically impacted water levels. In spite of this and a dam without a fish ladder to allow upstream fish migration, Anderson believes the eel is the best opportunity for wild salmon recovery on the West Coast. The two short films were both produced and directed by Michelle Alvarado of Wahoo Films in Bend. Saving
the Deschutes River (5 minutes) focuses on significant water management problems on the Deschutes River, and Naimuni: Connecting Oxbow Conservation Area (8 minutes) is a triumphant tale about a highly successful project on the middle fork of the John Day River that restored a moonscape of dredged gold mine tailings from the late 1800s.
Sponsored by the Mazama Conservation Committee, there is no admission fee, but a $5 donation to Pacific Rivers is suggested. Pacific Rivers will have a table with informational materials, and director Shane Anderson will be at the event to answer questions.
April 22, 2018
www.bend-marathon.com
5K & 10K
SPONSORED BY:
JANUARY 2018 15
Basic Climbing Education Program If you are ready to tackle snow-capped peaks or outdoor rock, then the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is for you! This 6-week class includes weekly lectures, team breakout sessions, and weekly conditioning hikes, all designed to get you ready to summit glaciated peaks and rock climb outdoors. BCEP will not only introduce you to a variety of technical skills, but will also help connect you with other individuals in the climbing community.
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info night Feb. 1, 2018 6:30–8 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center
LIBRARY NOTES
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stablished in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country. Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture. NEW BOOKS ADDED TO THE MAZAMA LIBRARY: ▶▶ Stories from the Dirt. John Long’s firstperson stories of riding big waves in Venezuela, BASE jumping in Europe, Yosemite big wall climbing, and riding bulls in Texas. Mazama Library call no. 920.L84. ▶▶ On the Trail: A History of American Hiking. Delving into unexplored archives Silas Chamberlin recounts the activities of hikers who over many decades formed clubs, built trails, and advocated for environmental protection. Chamberlin explores the implications for hiking groups, future club leaders, and the millions of others who find happiness, inspiration, and better health on America’s trails. Mazama Library call no. 973.9.C35. ▶▶ White Mountain: A Cultural Adventure Through the Himalayas. In an exploration of the Himalayan history, author Robert Twigger unravels the disparate journeys and the unexpected links between the Buddhists, Bonpos, Jains, Muslims, Hindus, shamans and animists who call the land home. Following a winding path across the Himalayas, Twigger encounters incredible stories from mountaineers and mystics, pundits and prophets. The result is a sweeping, enthralling and surprising journey through the history of the world’s greatest mountain range. Mazama Library call no. 954.96.T92. ▶▶ Fall of Heaven: Whymper’s Tragic Matterhorn Climb. A classic event in mountaineering history, dramatically retold by Reinhold Messner, a classic mountaineer. Mazama Library call no. 914.94.M56f. ▶▶ Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict. World-class alpinist Steve Swenson’s personal story of climbing K2 and other peaks in the
Karakoram Range that straddles the borders of China, India, and Pakistan. A story told against the backdrop of extreme altitude and conflict between these nations for control of Kashmir. Mazama Library call no. 915.45.Swe3. ▶▶ 1001 Climbing Tips. Andy Kirkpatrick’s refreshing take on the climbing guide genre. Irreverent, it has a laugh on virtually every page, but also some extremely useful advice and some points of genuine interest. Mazama Library call no.796.52.K63.
CLASSICS OF MOUNTAINEERING: Annapurna, First Conquest of an 8000meter Peak. By Maurice Herzog, 1952. The French Alpine Club faced frostbite, snow blindness and near death to reach the summit of Annapurna, than an uncharted Himalayan peak. The expedition was the first to reach the summit of one of the eight-thousanders in the Himalayas. Members of the expedition included Louis Lachenal, Gaston Rébuffat, and Lionel Terray, now regarded as some of the finest mountaineers ever. With the publication of Annapurna, Maurice Herzog became the first living mountaineering celebrity known to the general public. The book, with its famous exhortation that “there are other Annapurnas in the lives of men” inspired a generation of climbers. Mazama Library call no. 915.42.H44.
Did you know? ▶▶ Mount Mazama, the extent volcano whose crater contains Crater Lake, is named for the Mazamas. ▶▶ The Mazamas have had two five-term presidents: Charles Scholes (1895, 1903, 1905, 1906, 1907) and Christine Mackert (1980, 1989, 1998, 1999, 2000).
▶▶ Annie Smith Peck was the first woman to climb Huascarán in Peru (6768 m) in 1908. Read her biography, A Woman’s Place Is at the Top, by Hannah Kimberley, 2017. Mazama Library call no. 920.P33.
BOOKS FOR WINTER ADVENTURES: ▶▶ Backcountry Ski & Snowboard Routes Oregon, 796.93.T45 ▶▶ Backcountry Ski & Snowboard Routes Washington, 796.93.V88 ▶▶ Snowshoeing: From Novice to Master, 796.9.P89 ▶▶ Ice World Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing, 796.53.L95c ▶▶ Mountaineering The Freedom of the Hills, 9th Edition, 796.52.M86 9th ▶▶ Winter Dance, Select Ice Climbs in Southern Montana and Northern Wyoming, 917.87.J77 The Mazama Library catalog is now online! Visit mazamalibrary.org and check it out today. Remember, it’s yours to use!
JANUARY 2018 17
Time to Shine
Wednesday, april 25; 6–9 p.m. at The Evergreen
by Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications
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t’s BACK! The 2018 Awards & Volunteer Recognition Evening: A Mazama Celebration returns on Wednesday, April 25. We will once again be gathering at The Evergreen, 618 SE Alder Street, from 6–9 p.m. You'll enjoy an evening filled with Mazama Awards, including the Parker Cup, Hardesty Cup, 16 Peaks, Mazama Honorary Member, and many more. There will be slideshows and stories celebrating Mazama volunteers, and postcards where you can write a note of thanks to a volunteer who has made a positive difference in your life. And of course, there will be plenty of time for you to socialize with your Mazama friends, and hopefully meet some new ones. Space will be limited at this venue, so make sure to let us know today if you want to attend by filling out this form tinyurl.com/Maz2018-VolAwards. When we launch ticket sales, we will email you.
Mazama Awards Parker Cup Hardesty Cup Honorary Member 16 Peaks Oregon Cascades Guardian Peaks Climb with us! • Mt. Hood • Mt. Rainier • Mt. Baker Guaranteed climb spot, professional guides, team training, awesome people!
For more information visit us at ClimbforCleanAir.org! 18 MAZAMAS
How one snowboarder’s dog helped him off Hood in a whiteout by Kristie Perry
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ike any big-eyed pup that ends up in the hands of a doting dog lover, Boo was declared exceptional from the start: intelligent, compassionate, funny, fit, and loyal—like something out of an OK Cupid profile, only real. Part black lab, part border collie, Boo made her debut in 1997—a year when singer-songwriter Sarah McLachlan ruled the radio, James Cameron’s “Titanic” ruled Hollywood, and the 6th edition of “Freedom of the Hills” was released. Boo went home Christmas week with Scott Ballard, a backcountry skier, snowboarder, and occasional mountaineer, who wanted a dog to accompany him while he was surveying trees and terrain as an engineer for the Canadian Forest Service. “She was full-tilt boogie from the start,” Ballard says. “And she was feisty. It was sleep, terrorize, sleep, terrorize, shoes: yummy.” That December brought Boo’s first snow, with flakes piled high enough for the 10-week-old pup to run tunnels through. She took to the snow with gusto. It was a sign of good things to come and the first day of many that she’d spend romping through the snow with Ballard.
“EAU DE DEAD ANIMAL” When Boo was about six-months old, Ballard began taking her to work with him. To keep track of Boo in the forest, Ballard tied a hockey puck-sized roll of pink flagging tape to her collar—something he’d be able to easily spot as it unfurled behind her. “I had a job to do. I couldn’t
have her tied to me.” She usually stayed within a 30-meter radius and returned to Scott with a stick in her mouth. She also had a vested interest in staying close: the cheese sandwiches Ballard fed her for lunch. Ballard’s job involved a lot of off-trail thrashing through thick forest and After a tough day of rolling in dead things, Boo didn’t necessarily look that’s when Boo showed she forward to bath time. But bath time was a must. had the advantage. Where Ballard slowed to get over FROM HELENS TO HOOD downed trees or fuss with mosquitoes, In 2001, Ballard and Boo moved to Boo bounded over obstacles at a speed Oregon. Soon after, Ballard paid a visit to mosquitoes couldn’t match. the Oregon Mountain Community shop “She loved to find dead fish. She’d come where he asked for information about back covered in scales. It would be eau de climbing Mount St. Helens. He bought a dead animal on the ride home from work.” map and booties for Boo, and the two were The four years Boo spent tracking on their way. It was the first glaciated peak an on-the-job Ballard through British for both of them—one they would summit Columbia forests made it easy for her together three more times. to transition to tracking Ballard while Ballard joined the Mazamas and mountain biking or backcountry skiing. signed up for a ski mountaineering class “She was competitive. She came to know so he would be safe and feel confident the trails well and wouldn’t hesitate to pass snowboarding in the backcountry. “I didn’t me at the end of a ride or run, then look want to have to take ski lifts. I wanted to back at me with a smile as if to say, ‘Ha! I beat you!’”
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MAN’S BEST FRIEND, continued from previous page get out to the good stuff. I’m an ‘earn your turns’ guy: skin up, ski down.” In the class, he learned how not to set off an avalanche, how to use a beacon, how to dig a snow cave, and how to survive and rescue others in the event of an avalanche. In the beginning, Ballard and Boo went snowboarding with a gang of other 30-somethings and their dogs. “Boo would see me grabbing my gear and she’d sit by the door. She knew where I was going and she’d tell me in no uncertain terms that she was going, too.” On these outings, human and canine generally traveled at an equal pace on the ascent. But it was every dog for himself on the way down. “We moved too fast for them,” Ballard says. After a veterinarian told Ballard that a dog will injure itself trying to keep up with its person, Ballard stopped bringing Boo on the group outings. But he didn’t stop snowboarding with Boo altogether. Instead, Boo started getting solo time on the mountain with her man. Ballard would take her up to Mt. Hood on Sundays “when everyone else was at home watching football.” The two of them would skin up to Illumination Saddle, stopping on the way at the top of the Palmer Snow Field to eat cheese sandwiches. “Sure beats mowing the lawn. It’s beautiful up there. The fact that you can take your dog out and do something like that is awesome. It’s like hiking on steroids.”
“I STOPPED PAYING ATTENTION TO THE WEATHER” The day after Thanksgiving, 2007, Ballard headed up to Timberline Lodge with Boo for another day of snowboarding. They arrived at the parking lot around 9 a.m. and Boo bolted out of the car and up into the snow. It was a bluebird morning: clear skies, sparkling snow, and uncrowded slopes. Ballard had checked the forecast and knew there was a possibility that clouds could move in later that day. As he donned his gear, he could see clouds sitting over Portland, but it didn’t look like anything was moving. So Ballard and Boo set out. “I got into my zone, skinning up the mountain. I stopped paying attention to the weather.” 20 MAZAMAS
They continued on companionably, a man and his dog. Near the top of Palmer, Ballard noticed the clouds over Portland had moved closer to Mt. Hood. The skies immediately above and around him were clear, so he and Boo kept moving. But they weren’t moving fast, and they didn’t get much further because Boo started acting weird. “I didn’t know if she was tired or injured. It was just strange.” Ballard urged her on, until, all of a sudden, Boo simply sat down. “It was almost in protest.” As Scott stood there trying to assess the situation, snow started falling and Boo started walking down the mountain. “Then bang, it was a whiteout.”
CAT AND MOUSE GAME Ballard couldn’t tell up from down. He couldn’t see the ski lift and he couldn’t see any lights. He had no point of reference. Boo, apparently, did. Boo darted ahead several feet, stopped, and waited for Scott to catch up to her. “I didn’t really know if she was just freaking out and running blindly. She was really manic during these sprints.” All Scott knew was that he needed to keep an eye on his dog so he wouldn’t lose her in the whiteout. Every time he got close enough to leash her up, she darted off again. During this cat and mouse game, it occurred to Scott that Boo never left his field of vision. “She made sure of that. It impressed me. Not just about her, but about dogs, in general.” Eventually, Timberline Lodge came into view. It was then that Scott realized (1) that Boo knew there was a storm, (2) that she knew which direction to go, and (3) she knew that Scott had no idea which direction to go. “It was like she had an internal compass.” That night, Boo got pepperoni pizza for dinner. ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Kristie Perry has been a Mazama since 2012. She’s pretty sure her dog would be more likely to eat her in an emergency than guide her off a mountain.
WHAT TO DO IN A WHITEOUT
In relaying his happy-ending dog story, Scott Ballard called out an important lesson: Don’t take Mother Nature for granted. “The weather can turn on you instantly.” While Ballard wasn’t excessively worried about his circumstances that day, he was humbled. “I was in the most easy space to be in a whiteout. I’m glad I wasn’t somewhere in the backcountry. I wouldn’t have wanted to dig a snow cave. “I don’t like putting myself in these situations. And I’m pretty good at not doing that. But it happens.” BACKPACKER MAGAZINE OFFERS THIS ADVICE FOR SURVIVING A WHITEOUT Take a bearing with a compass or GPS and note your location on a map. Don’t try to feel your way along a route; windblown snow can fill in contours, obscure cairns, and conceal drop-offs. Instead, seek shelter on the leeward side of a large boulder and mark your location with crossed trekking poles and a piece of bright fabric. Cover your mouth, nose, and eyes to block frigid air and blowing snow. Stay warm, dry, and hydrated while waiting for conditions to get better. When visibility improves, look for landmarks to guide your way down. Choose the quickest route to safety. If you must descend during a whiteout, follow a consistent heading and trust your GPS or compass; disorientation can cause people to wander in circles. If you begin to shiver uncontrollably or exhibit other signs of hypothermia, stop and seek shelter in order to re-warm your body. Link: tinyurl.com/BackpackerWhiteout LEARN MORE Adult climbing education programs offered through the Mazamas— including the Beginner Climbing Education Program, Intermediate Climb School, Advanced Snow & Ice, and Ski Mountaineering, and Navigation Skill Builders—offer practical experience on how to navigate in a variety of conditions. The Mazama Library also has a wide range of resources covering winter camping and snow travel.
Know When to Bail by Chris Wright
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o you can’t see, you’re probably cold, and there’s some debate as to which way is up, to say nothing of all the other questions rolling through your head, including whether you should be going up, down, or nowhere at all. Don’t worry—you’re not the first climber to live this moment, and you certainly won’t be the last. Take a deep breath, and channel your inner Dude or Dudette. It’s not all lost. Weather happens, and how you deal is what matters. Remember: The only way you lose in the mountains is by dying. If you
The author a rope length away from one of his proudest bails on a Bob Wilson Grant-supported expedition to Pakistan this summer. Photo: Graham Zimmerman.
and your partners make it home, you win. A few practical tips though: First off, try to assess the situation as unemotionally as possible. That goes for the little things and the big picture. For example, if your misery is increasing in proportion to the ice growing on your eyelashes or your decision-making is clouded by cold toes or hanger, just take a moment to alleviate those stresses. You’ll probably be better able to manage the situation if you can see, you’re fed, and you’re warm, so put some goggles on, get your jacket out, swing your legs, and eat something. The next step is going to be sizing things up. Are you dealing with a dangerous situation, or just an unpleasant one? That is to say, do you need to get it together and keep plodding on, or do you need to build an anchor immediately and start going down? The answer can be surprisingly hard to come by in the moment. On the one hand, according to legendary British hardman Mick Fowler, the key to hard climbing is wanting to go up more than you want to go down. So if this is just a
little cold and a little bad visibility you’ve got to deal with, so be it. To borrow again from another master of suffering, there’s Scottish mountaineer Dougal Haston’s “Dougal Dictum,” which says that if you can lead the next pitch, if you still have some food and gas left, if nobody’s sick or injured, then you can keep going. If that’s the scenario, you’re going up, at least until the answer changes. Sadly, sometimes discretion really is the better part of valor, which in this case probably means running away. In the back of every
good climber’s closet is a collection of proud bails, and if you want to live to a ripe old age, you can’t fight it when it’s time to add one to your stock. In that case, at least you have your parka on for the way down. There is of course the third option, which is to punt. Today it’s a whiteout, tonight it’s spooning and shivering, and tomorrow’s a new day. Whichever strategy gets you back to tell the story with all of your digits and a pint in your hand is probably the winner. In a way, that’s the only thing you really do need to see.
Frozen Alive
What does it feel like to slowly freeze to death? What can you do to save yourself if you find yourself in a life or death situation? Check out Outside’s Podcast, Science of Survival, to listen to Frozen Alive, Drinking Yourself Death, The Everest Effect and many more fascinating and educational stories of survival. www.outsideonline.com/podcasts/science-of-survival JANUARY 2018 21
MAZAMA LODGE Your Home on the Mountain. Fall/Winter Lodge Hours: Noon on Thursdays–Noon on Mondays. NEW YEAR’S DAY BRUNCH Join us on New Years Day for Brunch from 9 a.m.–1p.m. Adults $10/kids 12 and under $9. New Year’s Eve is sold out, but will be open again on New Year’s Day before closing at noon on January 2.
LODGE CARETAKERS Welcome back Brett and Aaron! Brett and Aaron will serve as our caretakers for their third winter. When they are not working at Mazama Lodge they are living in their log cabin next to Denali National Park. Aaron said about living in Alaska, “We are off the grid but on the net, allowing us to stay connected. We like coming down to Mazama Lodge in the winter to warm up; 60 degrees below zero is too cold.”
LODGE AVAILABILITY Every Saturday night in January is booked with Mazama classes. However, we are open on Saturdays for day use until 3 p.m. (except Jan. 27), and we have every Friday night available for overnight stays this month (except Jan. 26). We will serve a hot lunch every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from noon–1:30 p.m. (as well as on Monday Jan. 15). Reservations are not required for groups of 4 or fewer. Lunch is $9 for adults and $6 for kids 12 and under. Day use fee is $5/person; $10/families; free for members. If you order lunch the day use fee is waived. Day us includes use of the lodge until 3 p.m. and hot beverages. Mazama Lodge is open for Martin Luther King weekend Jan. 13–16, and there is plenty of availability Friday night, Sunday, and Monday night (Saturday night is fully booked). The lodge will be closing at noon on Tuesday, January 16.
OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY
PORTLAND, OR
ESTABLISHED 1971
OMCGEAR.COM
THANK YOUS! A special shout out to Buford Pippin who has graciously purchased a new chainsaw for Mazama Lodge! This Stihl Chainsaw replaces our nearly 30-year-old chainsaws. Another shout out to Jeff Hawkins for fixing one of our trail lights. This is a temporary fix as we install new LED landscaping lighting for the winter trail.
503.684.9698
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Brett & Aaron return for their third winter at Mazama Lodge on Jan. 1!
2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038
OUTINGS Foreign and Domestic Adventure Travel HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK MARCH 24–31
DEATH VALLEY: HIKING & EXPLORATION MARCH 11–17
Join us on the Big Island of Hawaii where we'll spend a week exploring Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, one of the world's most fascinating biological and geological landscapes in the most geographically isolated group of islands on Earth. We'll be staying in two cabins right in the park, each with three bedrooms, two baths, a kitchen, and all the comforts of home. Our itinerary will include day hikes (B and C level, the longest will be 10 miles), depending on permits, an overnight backpack either down to the coast (Halape) or up to Red Hill Cabin on Mauna Loa, and one day to explore Hilo and the Hamakua coast. Outing cost depends on participant numbers (8 min/10 max, plus 2 leaders). Costs range from $684/$828 members/nonmembers for a team of 10, or $754/$898 members/nonmembers for a team of 8 (includes lodging and fees). Each participant is responsible for their meals, rental car, and air travel. Sign up and a deposit of $150 is required by Dec. 15. Contact outing leader, Jay Feldman, at JayF1111@gmail.com or assistant leader, Rex Breunsbach at rbreunsbach@gmail. com for more information or to apply.
Take a late winter getaway to warm, dry, and scenic Death Valley national park in southern California. We will have a variety of hikes, from easy walks to moderately strenuous day trips up various canyons, washes and peaks. There are cultural and historical activities—Scottie’s Castle, Furnace Creek Inn, and abandoned mines and ghost towns. Wildlife viewing, including desert pupfish, bighorn sheep, reptiles, birds and insects is possible. March is around the wildflower bloom, which is very impressive in some years. Those interested in photography should bring their camera gear. We have the opportunity to view sunrise, sunset, and wildflowers in different areas of the park, such as Zabriskie point, Badwater, and the sand dunes. This is also dark sky park, and we have moonless nights for great views of the heavens. The trip will be low key and nonregimented. Participants may go off on their own or be part of organized activities, as they desire. Be prepared for a variety of weather conditions, as it can be hot and cold the same day, as well as windy. We will camp six nights at the Furnace Creek group campground. Participants responsible for their transportation ( flying to Las Vegas and car rental, or driving from Portland.) The cost including Outing fees and campground is $110–$190, depending on group size (6 min/13 max). Signup deadline is February 15, 2018. Deposit is $50. Contact leader Bob Breivogel (503292-2940) or breivog@teleport.com
HIKING GLACIER NATIONAL PARK JULY 22–28 Spend a week hiking the trails in America’s most-beautiful national park: Glacier. Established in 1910, this 204 square mile park in NW Montana offers breath-taking, rugged landscapes that are rich in wildlife and flora. There will be an assortment of A and B level day-hiking during the five days, led by Richard Getgen and Robert Smith. Wildlife sightings, mountains carved by intense glaciation, alpine lakes, wildflowers, and rushing streams await you. Attention will given to the history of Glacier, as well as the park’s topographic features, and the flora and fauna we encounter. The group site will be at KOA in St. Mary’s and we will carpool to the trailheads. The cost of the trip is $220 for members and $280 for nonmembers. KOA offers tent sites, RV hookup, and three types of cabins. Campsite/lodging expenses are not included in the cost. Contact Richard at teambears@frontier.com for an application. There will be a pre-outing meeting in the spring for participants to meet and receive additional information.
More information and applications available at tinyurl.com/maz-outings.
Donate Your Warm Clothing In previous years the Mazamas have donated over 600 pounds of much appreciated warm winter clothing to Mainspring Portland. You can help our Portland neighbors again this winter. What is needed? Warm coats & jackets Gloves, mittens, hats, and socks Warm shirts & pants
Donation boxes are in the lobby of the Mazama Mountaineering Center and at the Ramble signin spot at REI. Donations will be accepted through March.
For more information contact Kelsey Shaw at kelseyshaw@mazamas.org. Mainspring is located at 3500 NE 82nd Avenue and they serve residents from our Mazama neighborhood. For more information about MainSpring, please visit their web site: www.mainspring.org.
Mazamas. Your adventure starts here.
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EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS EVERY WEDNESDAYS AT 7 P.M., MID-OCT. THROUGH MIDAPRIL AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER. Thank you Mazamas, friends, and neighbors for supporting our successful Wednesday night series for more than 60 years! Programs are free and open to the public; a voluntary contribution at the door is at your discretion. We encourage you to carpool, take public transportation, bike or walk to the Mazama Mountaineering Center. JAN 3—NO PROGRAM
Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. 24 MAZAMAS
JAN.10—SANDOR’S MAGIC HOUR TOUR OF THE SUNSHINE STATES Recovering writer and filmmaker Sándor Lau relapses again with a photo show of his favorite magic hour shots of the sunshine states: California, Arizona, Nevada, and Hawaii. The show features shots and stories of adventures from Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, Mt. Shasta, Mt. Whitney, Red Rock Canyon, Picacho Peak, Camelback Mountain, and Mt. Haleakala, all shot at the golden hour just before sunset and just after sunrise. Calendars and framed prints will be available, with all profits going to Mazamas.
JAN. 17—VISITING THE LESSER KNOWN PARKS, CALIFORNIA TO MISSOURI In the spring of 2017, Mazama members Susan Brickey and Rick Pope spent two months in a camper van exploring the less visited parks along the southern tier of the country. Starting at Pinnacles National Park, the duo continued across California and Arizona sampling Carrizo Plain, Organ Pipe, Chiricahua, and Cave Creek. They hiked to the high point of Texas at Guadalupe National Park, got their kicks on Route 66, and finally biked across the state of Missouri on the longest rail trail in the country. Join us for a look at some of the diverse parks off the beaten path.
JAN. 24—GLACIERS IN THE WEST Guidebook author and Mazama hike leader Matt Reeder has spent the past five years writing about the best places to go hiking throughout the year. His new book PDX Hiking 365 is the fruit of that labor, the first guidebook ever in the Portland area to organize hikes by month and season. PDX Hiking 365 offers quiet urban trails, rainforest rivers and open desert skies in the winter, hikes through fields of wildflowers in the spring, treks high on glaciated peaks in the summer and explorations through the finest fall color hikes in the fall. From January to December, you’re sure to find something perfect for each month of the year. Matt will describe some of this favorite hikes from PDX Hiking 365 from old favorites to obscure classics. Books will be available for purchase after the presentation.
ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart. Check the website at tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities, and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted. MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶ AYM Committee Meetings are on the fourth Monday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. ▶▶ Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. ▶▶ We also host board game night on the first Thursday of the month. Check the Meetup page for location as they rotate every month!
FULL MOON CROSS-COUNTRY SKI JAN. 5
Ski along Bennett Pass trail at night. Tour this snowy wilderness expanse during the full moon, known as the Ice Moon or Wolf Moon. 7 miles RT, 300 ft. Drive 180. Cross-country skis and two headlamps required. $2 members/$4 nonmembers. Carpool from Fillmore Coffee, 6:30 p.m. Leader: Toby Creelan RSVP on Meetup
PHOTO SHOW: SÁNDOR’S MAGIC HOUR TOUR OF THE SUNSHINE STATES WEDNESDAY, JAN. 10, 7 P.M. AT THE MMC Recovering writer an filmmaker Sándor Lau relapses with a photo show of his favorite magic hour shots of the sunshine states: California, Arizona, Nevada, and Hawaii. The show features photos and stories of adventure in Yosemite, Grand Canyon, Mt. Shasta, Mt. Whitney, Red Rock Canyon, Picacho Peak, Camelback Mountain, and Mt. Haleakala, at the golden hour just before sunset and just after sunrise. Calendars and framed prints will be available with all profits going to the Mazamas. Mazama Mountaineering Center, RSVP on Meetup.
AYM TRADITION: WINTER WEEKEND JAN. 26–28 (SOLD OUT) Join us at the Mazama Lodge on Mt. Hood for Adventurous Young Mazamas Winter Weekend, Jan. 26–28. During the day we’ll have snow adventures like cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. At night, we’ll have yoga, hot catered meals, games, crafts, and a roaring fire. This event is limited to 65 people and sells out quickly. Learn more at mazamas.org/activitiesevents/aym/.
CAPE LOOKOUT YURT WEEKEND SAT, FEB. 3–SUN, FEB. 4 A winter classic! Come spend the weekend along the Oregon Coast exploring windswept beaches and the cliffs of Cape Lookout. We will head out early Saturday morning from Portland to hike Netarts Bay and make camp at Cape Lookout State Park deluxe yurts for a potluck, campfire, and camaraderie. Sunday we will pack up, hike out to the end of Cape Lookout, and then head for home with an obligatory stop at the Tillamook Cheese Factory for ice cream. Mileage: Approximately 10 miles on Saturday and 6 miles on Sunday. Elevation gain: ~1,000 ft. Drive: ~170miles round trip. Cost: $25 members/$35 nonmembers and mileage for drivers. Leader: Sarah Miller. Email leader to sign up; trip limited to 8 people. Winter sports are back! Kirk leads AYM to Devil’s Peak Lookout. Photo: Reid Vandewiele JANUARY 2018 25
CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. VOLUNTEERS NEEDED We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. Positions we need to fill are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater, and help or backup for same. You don’t have to commit to three years but, of course, it would be so nice if you could. Email classics@mazamas.org and state how you can help.
LEADING EVENTS IN FEBRUARY
MON. JAN 12: LATOURELL FALLS 10 A.M. AT LEWIS & CLARK STATE PARK Two mile easy hike. Meet at Lewis and Clark State Park bathrooms, exit 18, I-84. Flora Huber, flobell17@gmail.com.
TUES. JAN 16: LUNCHEON AT IZZY’S 11:30AM AT THE GATEWAY IZZY’S, 1307 NE 102ND.
Send details to classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month for inclusion in the Bulletin.
WED. JAN 17: STEIGERWALD LAKE NATURE AREA 10 A.M. AT THE MMC
CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING JAN. 22 & MARCH 19, 11 A.M.–12:30 P.M. AT THE MMC
Two mile easy hike and well-worth checking out. The area provides a docent who explains the features of the area and is helpful on questions. Email flobell17@gmail.com.
Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month. Come and join us!
JAN GOOD WEATHER DAYS
CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point is Gateway; our west side location is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.
THE HOLIDAY LUNCHEON The Holiday Luncheon on December 8 was a great success. We filled all 80 seats with Classics and their guests. Our volunteer helpers set up tables with holiday decorations and hung lights on the climbing walls. Charles from Mazama Lodge catered the meal of honey ham, vegetable lasagna, carrots, cheese, and salad. The committee added cookies, coffee, and refreshments to top the meal. Special thanks to our volunteers: Lacy Turner, Dyanne Foster, Tom Davidson, Lis Cooper, Bertie August, Gary Riggs, and the office staff for taking reservations.
LITTLE OLD LADY (LOL) HIKES AND OUTINGS Flora Hubel leads what she calls Little Old Lady (LOL) activities geared to those wanting a gentler pace. She can lead snowshoe or cross country ski treks as well as hikes, and will schedule them dependent on weather conditions. Email Flora at flobell17@gmail. com to express your interest. Flora will give details on meeting time and place. Timberline offers free access for those 71 or older, and Meadows offers free access to those 75 or older. Apply at their customer service desk.
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Cross country skiing, snowshoeing, or hiking at a “Little Old Lady” pace. Contact Flora Huber, email flobell17@gmail.com.
THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting date is Tuesday, Jan. 16. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting at this location: https://mazamas.org/members/executive-council-reports/ (you will need to be signed into the Mazama website to access this page). by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager President Chris Kruell called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 4 p.m. on Tuesday, December 19. Chris reviewed the meeting’s agenda and asked for approval. Motion carried. Due to technical issues, Secretary Keith Campbell was unable to access the November meeting minutes; approval deferred until the January meeting. Keith reported that current membership is 3,721, marking a net gain of 12 members over this time last year. Treasurer Marty Scott said that due to delays in processing the yearly financials, the monthly financials were not available. In his Executive Director’s report, Lee Davis recapped several recent events. The REEL ROCK Film Tour and the December Classics Luncheon were both well attended and sold out. Lee noted the closure of the MMC the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day for maintenance and cleaning. In internal reporting, Lee shared updates on the status of MMC conference rooms and AV system improvements. Lee ended his internal report with a status update on work at Mazama Lodge. The lodge will close on Labor Day for two months while contractors remodel the upstairs bathrooms and make other improvements. In external reporting, Lee focused on Mazama advocacy work. Lee recapped his recent meetings in Washington, D.C. Of particular interest is the upcoming Wildfire Disaster Act which may include a provision for more logging as a way to reduce fire risk. Lee met with the chief of the US Forest Service (USFS). The USFS is supportive of the Mazamas conservation and stewardship efforts. In a meeting with the new assistant head of the Department of the Interior, Lee advocated for a reduction to the proposed increase to user fees for some National Parks. The Gray Family Foundation has committed to an extra $50,000 in matching funds for improvements to the lodge. Pending future fundraising, additional work to the lodge may include new basement bathrooms. Lee then discussed Sally Jewell’s attendance
at the upcoming Oregon State University’s February Roadmap event. The Mazamas is a sponsor for the event that will feature a talk by the recent head of the Obama administration’s Department of the Interior. In business reports, President Kruell led off with an update on Mazama Board development in which Nominating Committee will work with Executive Council to understand what backgrounds are desirable to have for EC candidates. Eg, individuals who can help meet the goals and objectives of the Mazamas2020 Strategic Plan. A brief discussion followed about upcoming Mazama Awards. President Kruell tasked Secretary Campbell with reaching out to the appropriate committees to seek nomination for awards and cups ahead of the February 1 deadline. Mazamas awards are now given out at the Mazama Volunteer Application Event, held in May. Noting the revitalization of the Governing Documents (Gov Docs) Committee, Lee presented a proposed work plan for Mazama Policies review. After a brief history of the review process, Lee recommended that the board hold off renewing any policies for a month or two. During the discussion, several members of the board asked that Gov Docs provide annotated versions showing proposed changes of the policies up for review. Sarah Bradham, Mazama Director of Marketing & Communications, briefed the board on the status of the change management requests for proposals. As directed by the board, Sarah and Vice President Laura Pigion have reached out to four organizations to create a change management strategy and plan for the Mazamas. They sent a request for proposal to four Portland-based groups in November and received three proposals. They also received an unsolicited proposal from an individual from within the mountaineering community. Sarah and Laura will interview three of the groups in January and report back their findings. The board will make a decision at that time whether to proceed. Sarah then gave an update on the IT Project, noting that she is currently involved
in working out bugs and testing data within the new system. Data migration and the transition out of the current Mazama database and into the Salesforce environment will occur at the beginning of January. The Basic Climber Education Program 2018 students will be the first class to register using the new system, beginning on February 3. The current mazamas.org website will remain active until April 1. Lee gave an overview of the recent Smith Rock Ranch hearing. A contingent of Mazamas, thirty-five community members, and representatives from the media were on hand. The five-and-a-half hour hearing focused on two principle concerns: land use and noise. The commissioners will meet again in Bend on January 3 to reconvene the hearing. A decision is expected from the county later in January. Justin Rotherham, Mazama Education & Activities Program Manager, and Matt Blecharz, Education Committee Chair, were on hand to present the Mazamas one and three-year plans to scale up our education programs. They are initially focusing on decreasing burnout and increasing retention among volunteers. Board member Traci Manning addressed the diversity, equality, and inclusion (DEI) work she and staff member Claire Nelson have undertaken. She asked the assembled board members to share their experiences. Several comments of note include President Kruell’s observations made during the 2016 cultural conversations on the number of people who reported feeling uncomfortable during Mazama activities. Board member Marty Scott pointed out that the cost of entry into many Mazama programs is prohibitive to middle and low income individuals and families. Board member Stephen Couche recommended that one area of focus to raise DEI awareness should be the families committee and their programs. No member chose to speak at the 5:30 p.m. member comment period. President Kruell adjourned the meeting into Executive Session at 6:45 p.m. The meeting adjourned at 7 p.m. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, January 16, at 4 p.m. JANUARY 2018 27
TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL
TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org. SS A Jan 01 (Mon) First Monday at Trillium Lake Regis Krug 503704-6442/regis_krug@mentor. com. Contact leader for gear requirements. Shake out the New Year’s Eve cobwebs—we’re leaving Gateway at 4 a.m. for the drive to Mt. Hood so we can depart the Trillium Lake SnoPark about 5:30am. We will snowshoe through the woods and over dale to Trillium Lake, just in time for the first sunrise of the year before looping around the lake. In previous years, it has been a crisp, clear morning in the teens, so be prepared for very cold weather. It will be a moderate pace, so we don’t overheat. Headlamps and snowshoes required. 6 mi., 800 ft., Drive 100, SnoPark, Gateway 4 a.m. (MH)MU SS A Jan 01 (Mon) White River Canyon Moonlight Snowshoe Joe Whittington joewhittington@ gmail.com. What better way to start the year than with a moonlight snowshoe? Full moon with moonrise at 5:40 p.m.. Snowshoe up White River Canyon with ethereal views of Mt. Hood and the canyon. Need headlight, snowshoes, poles, and warm layers. Please contact leader if you have any questions. 4 mi., 200 ft., Drive 140, SnoPark, Gateway 4 p.m. MU HK B2 Jan 03 (Wed) University Falls Loop Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Coast range Gravelle Loop hike past University Falls. This trail is named for the Gravelle twins, Elroy and Edmund, who spent countless hours helping to develop and maintain the Tillamook State Forest trail system. 8 mi., 1275 ft., Drive 100, MMC 8 a.m. (WF)MU HK A2 Jan 06 (Sat) Peak to Peak, in town Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com. A ramble and then some. Start near the top of Mt. Tabor, then cross neighborhoods to Rocky Butte, and return. A short section of non-A hiking near the top of Rocky Butte. Dress for the weather. 8 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive 0, Mount Tabor crater parking lot 9 a.m.
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HK B2 Jan 06 (Sat) Kings Mountain Ken Park kjpark96@ gmail.com. Nice thigh burner to get the new year started. Expect mud, rain, and wind. 5 mi., 2,500 ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Jan 07 (Sun) Alameda Ridge Paul Steger PaulSteger612@ gmail.com. Urban hike up and down Alameda Ridge in NE PDX. Meet in front of Starbucks at NE Fremont & 15th. 6 mi., 400 ft., Drive 0, 9 a.m. HK B2 Jan 07 (Sun) Elk Mountain Loop Sue Dimin 971 409 8501. We will go up Elk, but turn off before the traverse to King, so no shuttle. Come prepared for all weather. 8.5 mi., 2950 ft., Drive 60, Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR) NS Jan 08 (Mon) To be Determined Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Meet at Sandy Safeway near the ATM by 8:30 a.m. Bring skis, poles, and boots. Then we will decide where to cross country ski depending on snow conditions; could cost $10 at some locations. 5 mi., varies ft., Drive 70, Sandy Safeway 8:30 a.m. MU DH A2 Jan 09 (Tue) Whipple Creek Dog Hike Don McCoy donald1020@aol.com, 503-709-9306. Mazama surveys have indicated that members want dog hikes. This hike will be limited to 8 dogs and 8 dog owners. I will take the first 8 dogs/dog owners who contact me. Dogs must be on a leash and be well-behaved. This is a Clark County Park and has wide trails that allow hikers, bikers, horses, and dogs on a leash. Meet at the trailhead and prepare for cold rainy weather. Bring towels and be prepared for wet dogs. Trailhead is at 17202 NW 21st Ave.; Ridgefield, WA 4.8 mi., 300 ft., Drive 0, Meet at Trailhead 9 a.m. HK B2 Jan 10 (Wed) Bells Mount Trail from Moulton Falls Rex Breunsbach rbreunsbach@gmail. com. We will start at the rushing Moulton Falls and hike up bell mountain into the area below Silver Star Mountain. 9 mi., 2,100 ft., Drive 80, StatePark, MMC 8 a.m.
WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas.org/hike for updates! WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES: TUESDAYS & THURSDAYS Multiple teams hike at different paces with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m. MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: mazamas.org/activities-events. NS Jan 12 (Fri) To Be Determined Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Meet at Sandy Safeway near the ATM by 8:30 a.m. Bring skis, poles, and boots. Then we will decide where to cross country ski depending on snow conditions, could cost $10 at some locations. 5 mi., varies ft., Drive 70, Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU NS Jan 12 (Fri) Old Man Pass scenic loop David Gast pdg17838@ gmail.com. Join us for an intermediate level cross country ski trip on the scenic loop at Old Man Pass north of Carson, Washington. This is a 7-mile loop with one significant climb. Please have your skis/boots/poles ready to go at the start. This is a fun intermediate ski loop not suitable for beginners. 7 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive 130, SnoPark, Fisher 8 a.m. HK A2 Jan 13 (Sat) BalfourKlickitat River Dan Smith 971-3314823. We will hike a loop at Balfour area for 1 mile, then 5 more miles on the Klickitat River. The Balfour trail has a great bald eagle viewing area so bring your camera. Dress warmly with no cotton and wear boots to stay warm. The wind can be very cold this time of year! 6 miles mi., 440 ft., Drive 141, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,GH) HK C2 Jan 13 (Sat) Salmon Butte Dyanne Foster 503 267-8937. Wilderness—Limited 12. The Salmon Butte Trail #791 is one of the more popular trails in the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness we will probably need snow shoes; traction devices will be required so be prepared! Wonderful views if we have a clear day - stay tuned... call leader with questions. 11.8 mi., 3170 ft., Drive 90, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (MH,WO) SS A Jan 13 (Sat) Pocket Creek Loop Snowshoe Deborah Gant email.deborah2@gmail.com. Beautiful forested loop with Hood River Valley and Mt. Hood views. We’ll travel through the forest on winding trails as we cross creeks and the east fork of Hood River to get up
to a ridge road for views before our journey down this wide and straight path to our cars. Trekking poles are highly recommended as are the essentials for winter travel. 5.5 mi., 511 ft., Drive 122, SnoPark, Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU SS A Jan 13 (Sat) White River Canyon Snowshoe David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limited 12. We will venture up White River Canyon appx. 2 miles, gain the west ridge via a 200 ft. hill climb. At the top, we’ll have lunch and then travel off trail back down Boy Scout Ridge to the cars. Pace will be easy/moderate. Be prepared for winter conditions. No cotton clothes. Please contact leader via email to reserve a spot. 4.2 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive 110, SnoPark, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH) HK A2 Jan 14 (Sun) Forest Hike, Urban Sanctuary Hike Sue Brickey 971-506-0931. Leave from the Newton Road Trailhead. Hike most of the final section of the Wildwood Trail through the less-traveled North Unit of Forest Park which features fine interior forest habitats. This native landscape provides important wildlife habitats for many indigenous species. Easy, rolling trail. Bring a snack or lunch. 7.5 mi., 300 ft., Drive est. 25 RT, Corner of NW Cornell and Skyline Rd. 9:30 a.m. HK B2 Jan 14 (Sun) Saddle Mountain Bruce Giordano brucegiord32@gmail.com. Mountaintop views that reach from the Pacific Ocean to Mt. Hood await you on this steep climb to the top of a double-peaked summit of basalt. Considering the time of year be prepared for adverse weather conditions. 5.2 mi., 1600 ft., Drive 96, Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR)MU SS A1.5 Jan 15 (Mon) Rampart Ridge Loop Bill Stein billstein. rpcv@gmail.com. Wilderness— Limited 12. Imagine snowshoeing through a beautiful ancient forest to a glorious view of the largest of the Cascade volcanoes. That’s what we’re aiming for: a long drive to/
from Mt. Rainier National Park, on a day when visiting the park is free. But if conditions for the trip aren’t perfect, we’ll substitute a closer snowshoe trip with similar stats. RSVP required by Sat Jan. 13. 4.9 mi., 1430 ft., Drive 290, Gateway 6 a.m. (AR,WO)MU HK B2 Jan 17 (Wed) Larch Mountain from Yacolt Burn Trailhead Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. EXPLORATORY - This Larch Mountain is in Washington. We will hike to a viewpoint below Silver Star Mountain. 5 mi., 1000 ft., Drive 100, StatePark, MMC 8 a.m. HK B2.5 Jan 20 (Sat) Tillamook Head (Seaside-Ecola) Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. Tillamook Head rises 1,000 feet from the ocean with jagged capes and rocky islands. The Lewis and Clark expedition crossed this headland in 1806 and we will pass by “Clarks point of view.” There are also remnants of a WWII Radar site. We will have a car shuttle; provided we get two drivers, otherwise may only do part of the traverse and retrace route. Be prepared for wet/windy weather and muddy trail. 8.5 mi., 1,600 ft., Drive 125, Target/185th 8:30 a.m. HK A2.5 Jan 21 (Sun) Portland Bridges Angelika Schaefer auschaefer219@yahoo.com. Meet us on the East Esplanade at the OMSI South Parking Lot. OMSI is also accessible by Trimet. From our starting point, we’ll zig-zag our way down river over 4 bridges, returning to OMSI via the East Esplanade. $5 parking fee at OMSI; free off lot street parking. 5.25 mi., 0 ft., Drive 0, OMSI South Parking Lot at 1945 SE Water Ave 7:30 a.m. MU SS B Jan 21 (Sun) Maxwell to Mountain View Bill Stein billstein. rpcv@gmail.com. Exploratory snowshoe to a heated shelter near Santiam Pass. If we’re lucky, we’ll have dramatic mid-winter views of Mt. Washington, the Three Sisters, Three Fingered Jack, and Mt. Jefferson. RSVP required by Jan. 19. 6.8 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive 252, SnoPark, Clackamas P&R Garage 7:30 a.m. MU HK A2 Jan 22 (Mon) Willamette Mission and Champoeg Park Bill Middleton 503-816-0549. We will start at Willamette Mission Park loop and then drive to Champoeg Park loop. It will be muddy on the trail. 6 miles mi., 100 ft., Drive 50, StatePark, Sherwood Regal Theater Park and Ride also served by TriMet 7:30 a.m. MU
NS Jan 22 (Mon) To Be Determined Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Meet at Sandy Safeway near the ATM by 8:30 a.m. Bring skis, poles, and boots. We will decide where to cross country ski depending on snow conditions; could cost $10 at some locations 5 mi., varies ft., Drive 70, Sandy Safeway 8:30 a.m. MU SS B2 Jan 24 (Wed) Chocolate Falls Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. A close-up look at Mt. St. Helens. From Marble Mount SnoPark, we will snowshoe the Worm Flows climbers’ route to timberline. 8 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 140, Washington SnoPark Permit, MMC 8 a.m. HK A2 Jan 26 (Fri) Hillsdale to Lake Oswego Hike William O’Brien wobobr123@yahoo.com. Great urban hike following the Portland Dept. of Transportation SW #6 trail from Hillsdale Shopping District to Lake Oswego includes hiking through Marshall Park and Tryon Creek StatePark. Bring $2.50 for TriMet bus back to Hillsdale shopping area. 7 mi., 400 ft., Drive 0, Meet at Wilson HS Parking Lot Capitol & Sunset Highways. 9 a.m. MU BP Jan 27 (Sat) Winter Camping Basics Regis Krug 503-704-6442/ regis_krug@mentor.com. Snowshoes and winter camping gear required. Have you ever wanted to go winter camping but were afraid to try? This is your chance. We’ll backpack into a suitable site on Mt. Hood (snowshoes might be needed), and set up a winter camp, including tents, kitchen and latrine areas. We’ll camp overnight, and possibly do some snowshoeing/hiking on Sunday before heading back to the trailhead. We’ll have a prehike meeting to discuss gear and logistics. HK A1.5 Jan 27 (Sat) Tour de Happy Valley Rick Craycraft 503679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com. We’ll start out with the Happy Valley Nature Trail, then intersect with The Stairs (all 430 of them) and loop back to our trailhead. From there we’ll head by car to the Mather Road trailhead for Mt. Talbert and exhaust the trails there (including summiting). Don’t be fooled, this will be a rigorous day. Dress for the weather. 6.5 mi., 1,020 ft., Drive 3, Clackamas P&R Garage 8 a.m. HK B2.5 Jan 27 (Sat) Dog Mountain Loop Gary Bishop gbish90@hotmail.com. The classic Dog Mountain Loop (via Augsperger) minus the flowers and the crowds. Traction and trekking poles a likely necessity. (Sign up at Gateway TC only.) 7.2 mi., 2900 ft., Drive 98, TH, Gateway 9 a.m. (AR)
HK A2 Jan 28 (Sun) Silver Falls State Park Loop Angelika Schaefer auschaefer219@yahoo.com. Silver Falls State Park is the crown jewel of the Oregon State Parks system. The waterfalls are stunning all year long. We’ll start at the north parking lot/ trail head and make a lunch stop at the warming house mid-way. Crisp hike with time for photos! Bring $5 cash if you need a State Parking pass for the day. 8.5 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive 100, StatePark, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (WF)MU HK B2.5 Jan 28 (Sun) Triple Crown Plus Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. From REI, we will hike up to Council Crest on streets then down the Marquam trail to the Zoo and Hoyt visitor center, then up to Pittock on the Wildwood trail. Descend on Wildwood to Audubon, then down Balch Creek to lower Macleay and on streets back to REI. Plan on 3.5 hours. Meet near front of first floor of parking garage. 10 mi., 1800 ft., Drive 0, REI - PDX 10 a.m. NS Jan 29 (Mon) To Be Determined Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Meet at Sandy Safeway near the ATM by 8:30 a.m. Bring skis, poles, and boots. We will decide where to cross country ski depending on snow conditions; could cost $10 at some locations 5 mi., varies ft., Drive 70, Sandy Safeway 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Jan 31 (Wed) Tillamook Forest—Wilson River Trail Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. We will hike from the Kings Mountain trailhead through the forest to the Tillamook Forestry Center. This area has totally re-grown since the fires in the 30s. Car shuttle. 8 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive 110, MMC 8 a.m. MU
Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions. Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12. MU: Hike is posted on Meetup. WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Award. AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Award. GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award. WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award. MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton– Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185– Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver. 99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
JANUARY 2018 29
SAYING GOODBYE
ROBERT PEIRCE
Nov. 24, 1924–Nov. 16, 2017 by Doug Couch
B
ob Peirce, always considerate of others, wrote his own obituary with the opening statement, “Bob Peirce never made it to the top. He never much got to the top of anything.” Those who knew him know he certainly excelled at modesty.
Drafted into the Army in 1942, he served in World War II with George Patton’s Third Army, crossing France following the Normandy Invasion. Modestly, he describes himself as a clerk-typist in a medical battalion through some of the fiercest fighting of the war, including the Battle of the Bulge in frigid conditions in Belgium and Luxembourg. The war ended as his unit was preparing to shift to the China-Burma -India theater to take on the Japanese. After three years of war he ended his military career still proudly a private. After the war Bob attended Harvard, earning two degrees in history, and then moved to Portland. In 1955 he joined friends on a Mazamas climb of Mount Hood, along with a few dozen others. For a while he thought that was enough to call it a climbing career, but he repeated the exercise the next year wearing new boots. He joined the Mazamas after that experience anyway and went on to a long career with the club. In the mid-‘50s he bought a one-man life raft at Andy and Bax, then drove to Warm Springs for a float down the Deschutes. He had seen the Deschutes from the bridge at Warm Springs and from Maupin, but not at any point in between. A one-man life raft is about the size of a bathtub but not nearly so deep. After discovering that the river is full of significant rapids, he stuffed his raft into a duffel bag, hiked the remaining mile or so to Maupin and then hitch-hiked back to his car. As with climbing, he followed one ambitious and under-prepared adventure with a long career of leading others safely through similar adventures on the John Day, Rogue, Snake and Salmon Rivers. As a climber Bob climbed everything in the Northwest he could get to (except, as far as the record is concerned, Mt. Saint Helens because that would have qualified him for a climbing award and
30 MAZAMAS
he did not want to start down that slippery slope). He led climbing outings or expeditions to Washington’s Picket Range, to Mount Waddington in Canada, to the Alps and to Peru. With all that climbing, Bob never took a climbing class. His was a generation that largely made up their techniques as they went along or pieced things together from their reading or conversations with others who had gone slightly before them. He served on our Publications and Outings Committees, and decided it was time to quit the Climbing Committee when requirements were adopted for the training that should be required of climb leaders. Not having taken a class, he figured consistency required he step down. But he kept climbing and teaching in various of our schools. In 1979 he traveled to Nepal leading a Mazamas outing. That would be his first of dozens of trips to the Himalayas, including time in Bhutan and Tibet. It also introduced him to the Sherpa people. Not only did Bob spend his 90th birthday in Nepal among Sherpa friends, he sponsored many in moving to Oregon and Washington. His last years were spent in the caring household of Sherpa friends here. Bob leaves behind the memories of his many friends, written documentation of climbs, treks, and a trove of drawings and
paintings. We also have the oral history he dictated to Dennis Olmstead and document “Rambling With Bob Peirce” that includes the obituary he wrote some years before would actually be needed. The conclusion of the obituary concludes: So even though Bob Peirce never got to the top of anything, he had some kind of satisfaction in being where he was, wherever he was, wherever that happened to be, and knowing, in a way, that that’s where he was supposed to be. It’s like always hovering somewhere near ten minutes before the hour on the Buddhist Wheel of Life. You may forever be below the pinnacle, but as you look ahead, you can have a chance to observe that the people on top of this moving wheel have nowhere to go but down.
A FAREWELL TO FRED BECKEY
Journeying North by Dan Halfley
O
n Dec. 3rd, a celebration of life was held in Seattle for climbing legend Fred Beckey, who died on October 30, 2017. Held at the Mountaineers Seattle Program Center on the shore of Lake Washington, members of the Mazamas were on hand to take part in the acknowledgment of Fred’s life and achievements. Well over four hundred friends and admirers were present.
The gathering started out with a stirring introduction and video presentation by Northwest mountaineering historian Lowell Skoog, with photograph shown of some Fred’s more notable first ascents. A series of speakers followed, including early climbing partners recounting their adventures (and misadventures) with Fred, and culminated with a heartfelt tribute by modern climbing great Colin Haley. Following a moment of musical
appreciation, all gathered for social time and refreshments. It is worth noting that there were many folks in attendance, both young and old, who had tied in with Fred sometime during his nearly eighty year climbing career (an informal poll indicated about a third of those present had done so). Wandering through the crowd, one heard all manner of stories about spending time with Fred. The common thread through all, however,
was an abiding love of the outdoors and deep respect for a life dedicated to mountaineering and exploration. Fred is buried at the Mt. View cemetery in Leavenworth, in the shadow of his beloved Cascade Mountains. You may want to stop by and pay your respects next time you pass through the area. There will never be another like him.
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