June 2018 Vol. 100 | No. 6
Bulletin
summer
Summer Solstice
one last hood climb
is ics right for you?
CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.
Above: Mazama Climb Leader Darrell Weston’s team on a successful summit of Mt. Hood on May 12. Photo: Liz Craig. Cover: Rebecca Morris on The Tooth in Washington. Photo: Justin Colquhoun.
MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon LEE DAVIS Executive Director lee@mazamas.org
LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@mazamas.org
CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@mazamas.org
SARAH BRADHAM, Marketing & Communications Director sarah@mazamas.org
CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
JUSTIN ROTHERHAM Education & Activities Program Manager justinrotherham@mazamas.org
ERICA STOCK, Development Director ericastock@mazamas.org
JOHN BARKHAUSEN Education & Activities Program Coordinator johnbarkhausen@mazamas.org
ADAM BAYLOR Stewardship & Advocacy Manager adam@mazamas.org
RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator reneefitzpatrick@mazamas.org
MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org
MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org
KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org
PUBLICATIONS TEAM
Editor: Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, and Wendy Marshall (publications@mazamas.org)
MAZAMA (USPS 334780): Advertising: mazama.ads@
mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c) (3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
FEATURES
Circumnavigate Mt. Hood!
Round the Mountain & Running Camps, p. 6
p. 6
Star Dust, p. 8
One Last Hood Climb
It’s Time for ICS, p. 10
p. 18
Mazama Library Notes, p. 14 One Last Hood Climb, p. 18 A Night to Celebrate, p. 20 The Summer Solstice, p. 24 Nature-Based Stress Reduction, p. 26 Families Mountaineering 101, p. 29 Postcards From An Old IceAxe, p. 30
MONTHLY CONTENT Executive Director’s Report, p. 4 Upcoming Events & Activities, p. 6 Membership Report, p. 16 Outings, p. 28 AYM, p. 32 Classics, p. 34 Mazama Lodge, p. 35 Trail Trips, p. 36 Executive Council, p. 38
ADVERTISER INDEX Green Trails, p. 39 Next Adventure, p. 28 The Mountain Shop, p. 40 OMC, p. 17 Rab, p. 33 Ravensview Capital Management, p. 17 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising
Is ICS Right For You?
p. 10
Mazama Celebration: Awards & Volunteer Recognition Evening Recap
p. 20 Top left: On the north side of Mt. Hood during the 2017 Ultra Runing Camp. Top Right: Ruth Reitsma. Photo: Unknown. Middle: 25-year member and Mazama Facilities Manager Rick Craycraft at the 2018 Mazama Celebration. Photo: Vaqas Malik. Bottom: Rappelling at Horsethief during ICS. Photo: Toby Contreras.
JUNE 2018 3
The Rise of Permits by Lee Davis
L
ast month I reviewed the recent permitting changes we saw on the Dog Mountain trail system in the Gorge, why those permits were instituted, and how was affecting our hiking program. This month I want to dig a little deeper and talk about recreational permitting on public lands in general and how this trend is likely to affect all Mazama programs in the years to come. HOW HAS PERMITTING AFFECTED MAZAMA PROGRAMS IN THE PAST?
The monetization of permits is a slippery slope that results in a management system that becomes directly reliant on these fees, and therefore the fees will continue to increase over time as management becomes ever more costly and complex.
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In the past the Mazamas have seen the impacts of recreational permitting on our programs. For example, the permitting system on Mount St. Helens resulted in an 80 percent drop in the number of organized Mazama climbs (and climbers) climbing the volcano each year. While it remains technically possible to schedule and execute these climbs, the additional costs and complexities have made it so difficult that most of our leaders just don’t bother anymore.
WILL PERMITTING CONTINUE TO EXPAND ON OUR PUBLIC LANDS AND MOUNTAINS?
always reasonably motivated by a desire to protect either the quality of the experience or the environment itself, and we fully support those motivations. Unfortunately, mostly due to the budget cuts and capacity problems faced by our land management agencies, the feasibility of building new trails is very low, which leads to the implementation of regulation through a monetized permit system. It is important to understand that we believe that regulation and permitting of access are often appropriate and necessary. But we disagree with associating fees with these permits.
WHY IS MONETIZING PERMITS A PROBLEM?
Yes. The United States Forest Service (USFS) announced plans to institute permitting for climbing on both South Sister and Mt. Hood. We will likely see monetized permits appear on these and other mountains of the Pacific Northwest in the next few years, and we are deeply concerned that the Mazama climbing program will see further drops in capacity if we can’t find a way to address these issues. And unless agency budgets improve, and congress decides to invest more in outdoor recreation and conservation, we may start to see more permits like the one on Dog Mountain pop up all over our forests.
The monetization of permits is a slippery slope that results in a management system that becomes directly reliant on these fees, and therefore the fees will continue to increase over time as management becomes ever more costly and complex. The net result is loss of public access except for those people who have the time and resources to navigate these esoteric permitting systems and can afford the “pay to play” model. At a time when the need to get new, diverse, under-resourced, and young people outside is greater than ever, this action by our management agencies is heading in the opposite direction.
ARE PERMITS OR REGULATIONS ON ACCESS ALWAYS A BAD THING?
WHAT CAN WE, THE MAZAMAS, DO ABOUT ALL OF THIS?
No. Whenever we see increased demand in a limited recreational asset like a trail, river, lake, crag, or mountain summit there comes a point where the land manager is forced to do one of two things to manage use—expand the asset by building new trails, docks, etc. to disperse use OR regulate use with permits. This regulation is almost
Two years ago the Mazamas and others raised these concerns during the congressional 7-Wonders tour organized by Travel Oregon and hosted by Senator Wyden and Representative Blumenauer. Our congressional leaders listened and have been working hard to help us improve this situation and preserve access for groups
Mazamas2020 CULTURE & INFORMATION GOAL
STRATEGIES
Lead the preservation and promotion of Pacific Northwest mountain culture and widely share the story of the Mazamas.
Expand and maintain our Library and Historical Collections with a focus on protecting and sharing the story of the Mazamas and the mountains of the Pacific Northwest. Invest in marketing and outreach efforts to build awareness, accessibility, and support for the Mazamas and to promote Pacific Northwest mountain culture. Leverage and enhance the Mazamas information technology infrastructure to advance Mazama programs, improve operational effectiveness, and expand communications.
The full strategic plan, Mazamas2020, is available at beta.mazamas.org/mission-vision-plan/
like the Mazamas, who work to help our community at large, learn to responsibly enjoy and protect the outdoors into the future. Last year, the USFS instituted new management directives specifically because of conversations with us, the Outdoor Alliance, REI, and the Outdoor Industry Association. Those new directives have expanded access within the Mt. Hood National Forest for youth serving groups because the agency understands how important it is to get kids outside, for their health, and for the future of our public lands.
WHAT ARE WE DOING CURRENTLY? Last months I was in Washington D.C. working with 140 other Executive Directors and CEOs—who are also members of the Outdoor Alliance and the Outdoor
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EDUCATION
EVENTS & ACTIVITIES
Industry Association—to carry these messages to Congress, the USFS, and the Department of the Interior. One of the top priorities that week was helping to move Senator Wyden’s Recreation Not Red Tape act forward and to gather critically important co-sponsors for this legislation. One night that week we found out that another large industry lobby was opposing our bill, and with the help of Outdoor Alliance member organizations like the Access Fund, IMBA, the AAC, the Mountaineers, and yes, the Mazamas, we were able to get more than 2,000 letters submitted in a 12 hour period to support the bill. Our actions—the actions of human powered recreationists just like you— carried the day and the bill moved forward out of committee. Our sincere hope is that with the support of Congress and agency leadership
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STEWARDSHIP & ADVOCACY
YOUTH & COMMUNITY OUTREACH
at the USFS, Bureau of Land Management, and the National Park Service, that the Mazamas and our partners can help solve these access and trail maintenance issues in the decades to come. Our vision at the Mazamas is everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains, and we are absolutely committed to doing everything we can to keep the Mazamas alive, healthy, and pursuing that vision for all of the 21st century. We deeply appreciate the support of our members, partners, donors, and friends who help us to do this important work. Thank you,
Lee Davis, Executive Director
JUNE 2018 5
UPCOMING EVENTS & ACTIVITIES ROUND THE MOUNTAIN Each year, the Mazamas celebrate their love of Mt. Hood with a 3-day hike around the Timberline Trail. Join us, as we set out from our base camp at Mazama Lodge each day for a 13 to 14-mile adventure. We carry only day packs, because each night we return to the lodge for great food, hot showers, a cozy bunk, and stories from your day on the trail. Your adventure includes all meals and dorm lodging. Shuttle vans will transport you from our meeting place in Portland to Mazama Lodge, as well as to/from the trailhead each day. ▶▶Friday, Aug. 31–Monday, Sept. 3 ▶▶Details and registration at beta.mazamas.org/RTM Interested? Want to learn more? Come out to the Round the Mountain Info Night on June 7 from 6–8 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.
FAMILIES MOUNTAINEERING 101 (FM101): INFO NIGHT
INTERMEDIATE CLIMBING SCHOOL (ICS): INFO NIGHT
LOST LAKE CHUCKWAGON WEEKEND
JUNE 4, 6:30–8:30 P.M. AT THE MMC
JUNE 25, 6:30–9 P.M. AT THE MMC
JULY 13–15 AT MAZAMA LODGE
Mazamas Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) trains adult and youth climbers for entry-level mountaineering activities, including rock and snow climbing skills. This class is an opportunity to get your entire family involved with alpine activities and mountaineering objectives. FM101 is designed to support parents and their children in building a solid foundation of mountaineering skills. Participants of the class will learn the skills required to be a competent member of Mazama “A” or “B” level climbs. FM101 utilizes one-room schoolhouse style to accommodate kids and adults of all ages. The class will break out into smaller practice and field session groups based upon a number of considerations, including age. Go to beta.mazamas.org/fm101 for more details.
ICS is an intensive, challenging, fun, and rewarding experience. At no other point in your climbing career are you likely to see your climbing skills advance more dramatically within a single, relatively short span of time. The curriculum will include additional knots, additional belay and rappel techniques, glacier travel, rock and snow anchor building, map and compass navigation, avalanche awareness, avalanche transceiver training, accident management training, crevasse rescue, snow camping, high angle snow climbing, 5th class rock climbing, and seconding/cleaning 5th class Trad. On Info Night you will have the opportunity to hear from instructors, assistants, and past students. Go to beta. mazamas.org/ICS/ for full details.
Come and join us for the throwback Mazama hiking event of the year! Like the good ol’ days, we will enjoy the wonderful cooking skills of the Mazama Lodge staff and hike the superb trails from Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge to the beautiful Lost Lake Campground via the most famous old-time trails in Oregon—PCT, Timberline Trail, Skyline Trail—covering 23 miles in two days with just a day pack.
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DETAILS
▶▶ Total distance: Appx. 23 miles with 3,000 feet of elevation gain. ▶▶ Cost: $160 members/$190 nonmembers (includes food, lodging, transportation) ▶▶ Sign Up: Go to tinyurl.com/ MazLostLakeWeekend
ULTRA RUNNING CAMP
MOUNTAIN RUNNING CAMP
SAT., AUG. 11–MON., AUG. 13 AT MAZAMA LODGE
FRI., AUG. 3–SAT., AUG. 5 AT MAZAMA LODGE
Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at beautiful Mazama Lodge, the Mazama Ultra Running Camp is for ultra runners to experience trail running at its finest! Led by Krissy Moehl and Jeff Browning you’ll spend 3 days and 2 nights exploring the beautiful trails in the Mt. Hood National Forest and learning from some of the masters of ultra running. During the camp, you’ll have the opportunity to circumnavigate Mt. Hood as a team. This circumnavigation is considered to be one of the crown jewels of Pacific Northwest ultra running and involves 40 (ish) miles on trail with appx. 10,000 ft of elevation gain and a variety of technical challenges—river crossings, glacier crossing, steep descents and ascents, and more all in a stunningly beautiful location. Register at beta.mazamas.org/runningcamp/
Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at beautiful Mazama Lodge, the Mountain Running Camp is geared towards road and trail runners interested in taking their running to the mountain environment as well as honing their mountain running skills. This 2½-day, 2-night camp will include group runs, a bootcamp, hill running clinic, mountain safety clinic, mountain running movies, excellent instruction by top-level runners, and much more! Led by Yassine Diboun, Joelle Vaught, Amy Sproston, and Jason Leman, this camp will get you ready to confidently run and explore the mountains on your own. Transportation, meals (excellent quality, fresh foods, vegetarian and gluten-free available) are included, along with bunk-style lodging. New options this year to accommodate returning participants! Register at beta. mazamas.org/runningcamp/
Krissy Moehl & Jeff Browning
Yassine Diboun, Amy Sproston, Joelle Vaught & Jason Leman
New Friends RUNNING Skill Clinics
MT. HOOD Movies
TRAILS
JUNE 2018 7
Star Dust by Darrin Gunkel
Y
THE SUMMER TRIANGLE
ou’re standing on the side of a mountain, about 7,000 feet above sea level. It’s a few minutes after sundown and the color filling the western sky has you absorbed. Until you turn to the east and notice something odd. The sky has a pinkish glow but for a dark band of blue along the horizon. This is the Earth’s shadow cast onto the upper reaches of our atmosphere. It’s visible for a brief time after sundown, while the geometry of our sun and planet are just right. Once night fully falls, rather looking at the shadow, you’re standing under it. The pink glow is called the Belt of Venus, and when it appears, it’s time to start looking for the first stars and planets of the evening. Twilight’s a great time to find your way around the sky – it more closely resembles those constellation finder charts that tend to show only the brighter stars. Things can get confusing later on in full darkness, when the storm of summer stars can throw off even experienced stargazers. This month, the show begins with the two brightest planets: Venus blazing 15 degrees (or three fist widths) above the western horizon, and Jupiter, 30 degrees up from due south. Both should be easy to spot by 9:30. Just north of east, Vega, the fifth brightest star in the sky (not including the sun) rides a little higher above the horizon than Jupiter. Vega burns as brightly as it does for three reasons. First, it’s big: two and half times the size of our sun. Second, it’s hot: its surface registers 9500 Kelvin (the temperature scale astronomers use, based on absolute zero. Our sun’s surface is 5770 Kelvin. The average temperature
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of the Earth’s surface is 287 Kelvin, or 57.2 degrees Fahrenheit.) Vega’s hotter, larger, and brighter than the vast majority of the 200 billion to 400 billion stars in our galaxy. Finally, Vega’s nearby, a galactic neighbor at 25 light years. Vega is also the anchor for the bright summer asterism, or pattern of stars, known as the Summer Triangle. The second star in the group, Altair, is rising due east after sundown. By 10:00, it should have cleared the murk of dust and haze near the horizon. Altair has an entourage. Just above and below are the slightly dimmer Tarazed and Alshain, respectively. Altair’s not as bright as Vega because it’s neither as big nor hot. In fact, it’s much closer, clocking in at 16.7 light years. Neither of them, however, holds a candle to the final member of the Summer Triangle. Deneb, found about 30 degrees above northnortheast as twilight deepens into full night. It’s among the largest and brightest stars in the galaxy, a super-giant 100 million miles in diameter. That’s not a typo. Deneb is wider than the distance between the
Earth and Sun. Intrinsically, Deneb is something like 55,000 times brighter than our home star. Move it to Vega’s distance and it would be clearly visible during the day and cast shadows at night. But it’s 60 times further away, shining at us across 1500 light years, so it only ranks as the 19th brightest night time star. Incidentally, big, bright stars are rare. Our Sun is a good example, often misidentified as average, though anything but. It’s larger and brighter than 90 percent of the stars in our galactic neighborhood. Of our 50 nearest stellar neighbors, only seven are bright enough that we can see them without the help of binoculars or a telescope, and only three of those are truly bright, first magnitude stars. Relatively close neighbors Vega and Altair don’t even make that list. A few of the rest can be spotted with binoculars, but most are tiny red dwarfs, often closer in size to the giant planet Jupiter than to our sun, and invisible with anything other than a seriously large telescope.
A
THE GREAT RIFT
s the night deepens, dimmer stars fill up the sky: the little parallelogram that hangs like a pendant below Vega, marking the constellation Lyra; the splay of stars to the south of Altair, the constellation Aquila; the Northern Cross capped by Deneb. And then there’s the Milky Way, the collective glow of billions of stars too distant and dim to make out with eyes alone. Together their light forms what the !Kung people of the Kalahari call the Backbone of the Night. The Milky Way runs right through the middle of the Summer Triangle, and through the middle of it runs the Great Rift. The Great Rift splits the Milky Way into two streams. The stars aren’t sparser here, they’re obscured by great clouds of cosmic dust: the star stuff that Joni Mitchell and Carl Sagan liked to point out we are all made from. And not just us. Star dust is everything in the solar system that isn’t hydrogen or helium (everything that isn’t the Sun, Jupiter, and Saturn, basically), every planet, asteroid, comet, meteor. Everything on or in every planet, asteroid, comet, meteor. The oceans, the continents, the volcano you’re camping on. Moreover, that star stuff fuels those volcanoes. The earth is hot inside: cranking at 44 trillion watts. Half of that heat comes from radioactive decay – the breakdown over time of uranium, mostly, but also thorium, potassium and a few others, into lighter elements. This decay unleashes subatomic
particles that crash into the other stuff the earth’s made of, and transfer their kinetic energy into that stuff, heating it up. This melts the Earth’s interior, creating the convection driving the plate tectonics fueling mountain – and volcano – building. (The rest of the heat is leftover from the Earth’s formation – also kinetic energy, but from numberless bits of cosmic dust in the Sun’s birth cloud colliding and coalescing under the influence of gravity.) So where’d all that dusty stuff come from? Back to the stars – the big ones like our Sun, which end their lives as planetary nebulae: glowing shells of future star dust and gas that disperse into the cosmic wind. But to make the really heavy radioactive elements, like uranium, you need really big stars like Deneb. Starlight is (part of)
the exhaust of nuclear fusion: hydrogen fusing to helium, and so on to heavier elements. To get the really exotic, unstable radioactive elements like uranium, you need the conditions found only in a supernova, the death-throe explosion of one of those super-rare giants. Super-rare, but remember, there may be a third of a trillion stars in our galaxy, and it’s been around for something like 15 billion years. Plenty of time for plenty of ancient Denebs to cough up enough heavy elements to keep planets like ours cooking up entertaining mountains.
JUNE 2018 9
It’s Time for ICS! by Christine Troy
T
hey say that at no other point in your climbing career are you likely to see your climbing skills advance more dramatically than you will during the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS). I am only three years into my climbing career but, from my vantage point, that is certainly a true statement! It’s astounding to look back on my technical skills from a year ago and compare them to my skills today. ICS was an amazing nine-month learning experience put on by a huge cadre of talented and dedicated volunteer instructors. Add to that mix a set of eager and fun-loving fellow students and you have the recipe for a great year. Before I took the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) in 2016, I knew nothing about climbing. Like so many others, once I took BCEP, I was hooked. Over the next two climbing seasons I had the opportunity to climb with many amazing climbers. I was enjoying our incredible Pacific Northwest mountains but was aware that I lacked the technical skills and decision-making experience to operate more independently in the backcountry. Taking ICS was the perfect opportunity to gain technical know-how, begin to
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hone my risk management skills, Clockwise, from top left: The 2017–18 ICS class at and meet a ton of incredibly Horsethief Butte. Photo: Phil Lamb. The author climbing Purple Headed Warrior at Smith Rock. Photo: Toby talented fellow Mazamas. Contreras. Toby Contreras practices snow skills during low ICS surpassed my greatest angle snow weekend. Photo: Deborah Busch. expectations. The depth and breadth of skills and experiences covered in the class are building and rescue skills, we were off unparalleled. I will never forget and running on a series of climbing the feeling of rappelling off a trad weekends at Smith Rock State Park. anchor I built myself for the first time The instructors really made the (if you are curious, the feeling was a sessions at Smith an exceptional learning mix of excitement, pride, and a healthy dose of sheer terror). After a weekend continued on next page at Horsethief Butte to practice anchor
ICS was an amazing nine-month learning experience put on by a huge cadre of talented and dedicated volunteer instructors. Add to that mix a set of eager and funloving fellow students and you have the recipe for a great year.
JUNE 2018 11
ICS, continued from previous page experience. Students were paired with instructors at a ratio of three to one, and were spread out throughout the crag for some high quality and fun hands-on climbing instruction. The culmination of the rock portion of the class was multipitch weekend where we got to experience longer, more committing routes (and show off our best crazy tights). December brought a break from ICS so we could take Mountaineering First Aid and learn how to deal with any emergencies we might face in the back country. The new year and colder weather turned our focus to snow skills. We learned how to search for, and rescue, buried avalanche victims and how to rig pulleys to haul someone out of a crevasse. We learned the difference between a deadman and a sierra picket (the main difference seems to be a lot of digging!). We showed off
our best fashion onesies during several nights at Mazama Lodge, and challenged our teamwork and problem-solving skills during Leadership and Accident Management weekend. One of the great things about the Mazamas is how people are so willing to volunteer their time to teach others. ICS continues this value by helping instruct BCEP. It is gratifying to be able to share the skills I have been taught with new mountaineers. And, as any teacher knows, nothing cements your skills like having to teach them to someone else! Now, the 2018 climbing season is in full swing and ICS is winding down. The end of the class is bittersweet. It is nice to have some more free time, but I miss the intense learning experience and camaraderie of my classmates and instructors. ICS has opened many doors for me and given me a whole host of options to fill my newfound free
time. I now have the skill set to go climbing safely at our many local crags. I have met fellow climbers with the training and drive to plan and execute our own adventures. And, perhaps more importantly, I have become further integrated into an organization that strives to protect the environment and help teach hundreds of people to safely enjoy the mountains.
Intrigued? Come to ICS 2018–19 Info night on June 25 to learn more about the upcoming class. You’ll have the opportunity to hear from the class leaders and past students, and to get a feel for whether the class will be a good fit for you. More details at beta. mazamas.org/ICS
Several ICS teams exploring multi-pitch routes in the Marsupials at Smith Rock State Park. Photo: Christine Troy.
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Mazama Climbing What Have We Learned?
by Sarah Bradham, Marketing & Communications Director
I
n April 2018 the Mazamas launched a brand new website that changed the way the Mazamas have managed climb applications for the last 43 years. Gone is the antiquated paper process that required an intricate level of knowledge of the organization, up fronting the cost of a climb by purchasing a climb card, rewriting information over and over again on paper applications, as well as the need for envelopes and stamps. In its place is an online process that is based on a user creating a profile that details their experience and activity history, finding a climb they want to participate in, and providing payment information (and only being charged for the climb if accepted).
As we transitioned to this new system there was both a lot of excitement, as well as a heavy dose of anxiety about how the process would work. Would hopeful climbers need to be sitting at their computer at 9 a.m. on the climb registration open date to even be considered for a climb? Would the most popular climbs immediately be full? How would it work with all the climbs not opening on the same date as they had in the past? Would the new system be easy to navigate? We did a lot of prep work in the months leading up to the launch to get the message out to our members and the community about the new application process. We shared information via our monthly magazine, weekly e-news, and social media channels. We also talked to our climb leaders about implementing a new phased application process to lessen the stress on the system; in case problems did arise we would be better able to manage them with only a subset of climbs opening on any given date. Our climb leaders also agreed to increase the number of applications they were willing to review in order to ensure applicants did not get shut out from the application process.
SO WHAT’S THE VERDICT? The early results are extremely promising. The first 28 climbs of the season opened at 9 a.m. on Monday, April 16. We were in full on call center mode at 8 a.m., staffed up and ready
to handle all of the emails and calls from applicants. And ... they never came. Between 8 a.m. and 11 a.m. we handled approximately 5 phone calls and 4 emails. And in that same time we received 250 applications for climbs. We did have one major challenge that came to light on Wednesday, April 18 as leaders began accepting applicants. Our 3rd party payment processor had changed something critical in their API that caused a payment failure for anyone who had previously paid for an activity through the new Mazama website. This caused approximately 50 payment failures. But thankfully, since we had launched with a phased application process, the issue was relatively small in scope. Since that initial open date, we had 4 major open dates and currently there are 197 climbs on the schedule. The anxiety about climbs filling immediately upon the application opening proved to be unfounded. In fact, most climbs did not even reach their max applicant number within 3 to 5 days, no less within minutes. This means that you do not need to be sitting at your computer or on your phone at 9 a.m. when the application opens in order to be considered for a spot. However, it is wise to apply for the climb on the first day the application opens, as if the climb does have more applicants than spots available, the climb leader may factor the date you applied into the acceptance criteria.
Climbs Scheduled Climbs Canceled
211 15
Application Stats Total Applications 2974 Applications Accepted 1129 Unique Applicants 657 Unique Applicants Accepted 482
Awaiting Approval 475 Canceled 243 Not Selected 751 Mt. Hood Climbs Scheduled
25
Canceled
6
Spaces Available 191 Non-Canceled Spaces
152
Applications for Mt. Hood Climbs 485 Unique Applicants for Mt. Hood Climbs
297
Application by Gender* Men 1693
33% Acceptance Rate
Women 1230 43% Acceptance Rate
Non-Binary/Other/ Prefer not to Answer 14 58% Acceptance Rate
*Gender is self-reported by applicants. Options include male, female, non-binary, other, and prefer not to answer. Gender information is not made available to climb leaders.
JUNE 2018 13
Mazama LIBRARY Notes by Mathew Brock
E
stablished in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country. Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping ,and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture. NEW RELEASES AND ADDITIONS
▶▶ TO THE EDGES OF THE EARTH: 1909, THE RACE FOR THE THREE POLES, AND THE CLIMAX OF THE AGE OF EXPLORATION, Edward J. Larson, 2018. As 1909 dawned, the greatest jewels of exploration—set at the world’s frozen extremes—lay unclaimed: the North and South Poles and the so-called “Third Pole,” the pole of altitude, located in unexplored heights of the Himalaya. Before the calendar turned, three expeditions had faced death, mutiny, and the harshest conditions on the planet to plant flags at the furthest edges of the Earth. ▶▶ A MOUNTAINEER’S LIFE. Allen Steck, with forward by Steve Roper, 2017. Over 70 years later Steck has had a prolific climbing career, including a 1954 expedition to Makalu, a 1963 first ascent of the south face of the Clyde Minaret, and a 1965 first ascent of the Hummingbird Ridge on Mount Logan. In 1967, with Steve Roper, he co-founded and edited Ascent magazine. Two years later, his interest in the far reaches of the world led him to partner in Mountain Travel, America’s first true adventure travel company.
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▶▶ ADVANCED ROCK CLIMBING MASTERING SPORT & TRAD CLIMBING, by Bob Gaines, 2018. Recommended by the American Mountain Guides Association Advanced Rock Climbing, written by AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Bob Gaines, covers concepts and topics for today’s rock climbers looking to take their skills and experience to the next level. Combining up-to-date and complete information on toproping, anchors, rappelling, safety and rescue techniques, gear, and so much more in one comprehensive book, Advanced Rock Climbing is a must-have title for any serious climber or climbing instructor.
BOOKS FOR EXPLORING THE OUTDOORS WITH KIDS:
▶▶ DAY HIKING MOUNT SHASTA LASSEN & TRINITY, by John Soares, 2018. A popular outdoor sports destination of iconic parks and mountains, this guide features 125 day hikes aimed at a variety of skill levels.
▶▶ Babes in the woods, 790.19.Ai8 ▶▶ Outdoor parents, outdoor kids : a guide to getting your kids active in the great outdoors, 790.19.B85 ▶▶ Best hikes with kids: Oregon, 917.95.H38 3rd
THE MAZAMA LIBRARY NEEDS SUPPORT—FROM YOU! Do you or someone you know have vintage mountaineering gear that is looking for a home? Don’t give it to Goodwill, donate it to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections! We are always on the lookout for wood handle ice axes, early climbing gear, vintage catalogs, turn of the century photographs, early mountaineering books, and more. Please contact library manager Mathew Brock at mathew@ mazamas.org to discuss potential donations. We apologize, but we cannot accept any Mazama Annuals published after 1925 or National Geographics magazines. Please consider a financial contribution to support the Mazama Library, a nationally recognized collection and one of the few remaining mountaineering libraries in the United States. Your financial donation will help support our full-time librarian, acquire rare mountaineering books and historic photographs, and maintain our valuable archives and historic objects collections. Thank you for your support.
CLASSICS OF MOUNTAINEERING
THE HIGHEST ANDES, by Edward FitzGerald, 1899. Edward FitzGerald was an American-born British mountaineer and explorer. In 1896-7 he personally financed and led an expedition to map and explore the High Andes in Argentina and Chile, which included the aim of making the first ascent of Aconcagua, the highest mountain in South America. The Highest Andes, first published in 1899, is FitzGerald’s own account of the expedition which includes contributions from Vines. It is an engaging classic of mountain exploration, recounting the triumphs and tragedies of the team while they explored this part of the Andes over a period of many months.
Are you ready to support the Mazama Library? Go to beta. mazamas.org/donate and select Library & Historical Collections.
DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ 25 percent of the earth’s 56-million-square-miles of land mass are above 3,000 feet. ▶▶ Glaciers are classified as one of three types according to their location: Piedmont, Valley, and, the most common, Ice Cap. ▶▶ Ice worms, once thought legendary, were discovered on the Muir Glacier in Alaska in 1887. ▶▶ It took Warren Harding and his various partners 45 days to make the first ascent of the Nose of El Capitan in 1958.
Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at beta.mazamas.org/library JUNE 2018 15
e m o c Wel
NEW MAZAMAS!
Our new members join a 123-year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation. Please give them a warm welcome if you encounter them in a class, activity, or an evening program. We welcome you to our ranks!
Clockwise, from left: New member Jarl Opgrande on Mt. Adams, New Member Kraig Lowe on Mt. Rainier, New member Jenni Kumanchik on Mt. St. Helens.
William Edmund Allen, Mt. St. Helens Heather Bervid, Mt. St. Helens Petra D LeBaron Botts, Mt. St. Helens Joel Enderle, Mt. Hood Vandy Harriet Hall, Mt. St. Helens Jenni Elizabeth Kumanchik, Mt. St. Helens Kraig Low, Mt. Rainier Scott Mcintire Michael Myre, Mt. Rainier Jarl Opgrande, Mt. Adams Kori Rosenstiel, Old Snowy
Jason Vosburgh, Mt. Hood Logan Young, Mt. Hood Listed last month without the name of their qualifying peak. Peak has been added: Thomas Owens, Mt. Hood Jason Rea, Mt. Adams Leayn VanDeven, Mt. St. Helens
New Members: 13 Reinstatements: 13
David Acton (2017), Noah H. Enelow (2014), Loren M. Guerriero (2013), Anne Harris (2015), Margo McGehee-Kelly (2010), Nicholas Morse (2017), Caleb T Phillips (2007), Anna Revolinsky (2014), Debra A. Sankovitz (2015), Daksha Sharma (2015), Rohan Sharma (2015), Tommy L. Taylor (2016), & Alden D Wilson (2010)
Deceased:2 Don Burnet (1966) and Mary Ellen Mogren (1957)
Total Membership as of April 30, 2018—3,399; 2017—3,491
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BOB WILSON EXPEDITION GRANT APPLICATION PERIOD: JUNE 1–JULY 4 Go to: beta.mazamas.org/ expedition for full details The Mazamas have historically been leaders in exploring and climbing in the great and remote mountain ranges of the world. The purpose of the Wilson Grants is to provide annual financial support to Mazama members who are organizing and/or leading expedition climbing ventures in the high or remote mountain regions of the world. The Wilson Grants are intended to stimulate, inspire, and celebrate a renewed culture of exploratory climbing within the Mazamas and to reward our most dedicated and engaged members. Mr. Wilson and the Mazamas wish to encourage and motivate dedicated Mazama members, volunteers and leaders to develop their expedition climbing skills and experiences. Applications for the Bob Wilson grants will be accepted June 1st thru July 4 for expeditions of 15 days or more to occur 6–18 months from the date of application. A total of $10,000 is available annually, either to be given to one expedition or split up to three ways.
Stay Connected ▶Like ▶ us on Facebook: facebook.com/ mazamas.pdx ▶Follow ▶ us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag us in your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶Subscribe ▶ to our blog: mazamas.blogspot.com ▶Read ▶ the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu. com/mazamas. ▶Advertise ▶ your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/MazamasAds for details.
OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY
MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. JOIN THE MAZAMAS TODAY! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the most active mountaineering organizations in the country: beta. mazamas.org/join
PORTLAND, OR
ESTABLISHED 1971
OMCGEAR.COM 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038
▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY. JUNE 2018 17
One
Last
Hood climb by Rico Micallef
S
ince the beginning of March I have had two house guests, Ruth Reitsma and her son Earl. Ruth was a former Mazama climb leader who passed away in November of 2015, and her son Earl passed away December of 2016. Ruth’s daughter’s, Diane and Jan, wanted their mother and brother’s ashes to be distributed on the top of Mt. Hood, and asked the Mazamas for assistance. I was honored to be asked to help fulfill their wishes. I got to know Ruth through many emails with Diane and Jan, and through photos that they sent to me. Ruth led an all women’s climb for the Mazamas. Ruth’s husband Earl, who passed way in 1965, was also a Mazama climb leader. Ruth and Earl led many Mazama climbs together. I was thrilled when they sent me a picture of Earl’s Guardian Peak award from 1957—when Mount St. Helens was 1300 feet higher! Diane and Jan recounted how their mother carried sand to the top of Mt. Hood and had a beach party on the summit. I knew instantly that Ruth was the kind of climb leader that I would have enjoyed climbing with. Diane and Jan and other family members wanted to be on Mt. Hood when the ashes were distributed. They were traveling to Oregon from a variety of locations—Washington, Arizona, and California—so we agreed on a summit attempt on May 5. I was planning to lead a team of 12, primarily my 2018 Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) students, up Mt. Hood on their quest for their first Mt. Hood summit. Once we set the day, we prayed for good weather.
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Our prayers were answered with a fantastic warm night with little to no wind. I was concerned about the how warm it was going to be and even more concerned about how busy the mountain would be, so I moved the climb start time up to 11 p.m. I told the team that if we maintained a decent pace we would get to the summit by 6 a.m., in time for sunrise. The team rocked it and we were on the summit by 5 a.m. It took us 5 ½ hours to summit. On our way to the summit we found the Pearly Gates route in the best shape I have ever seen. I thought it was very fitting to bring Ruth and Earl to their final resting place via the Pearly Gates. We waited for sunrise to scatter the ashes, another fitting piece to this day. The dawn of a new day—in my head I had the song the “Morning has Broken” playing—the song I have told my kids I want played at my funeral. As the sun finally began to light the day, we got ready to distribute the ashes. I had told the team that in honor of Ruth we were going to wear Hawaiian shirts on the summit. Fortunately I have an overabundance of them and supplied the team with shirts from my collection. We put on our Hawaiian shirts over or puffies and got ready.
As the new day began, we scattered Ruth’s ashes on the summit while reading a poem that family had placed in the bag with the ashes: Look to this Day Look to this day: For it is life, the very life of life. In its brief course Lie all the verities and realities of your existence. The bliss of growth, The glory of action, The splendor of achievement Are but experiences of time. For yesterday is but a dream And tomorrow is only a vision; And today well-lived, makes Yesterday a dream of happiness And every tomorrow a vision of hope. Look well therefore to this day; Such is the salutation to the ever-new dawn! We then spread Earl’s ashes next to his mother. Finally, I placed a picture of Ruth in the middle of the ashes.
Above: Rico’s climb team on the summit of Mt. Hood, proudly donning their Hawaiian shirts to give Ruth and Earl a proper. Below: Rico with Ruth’s daughters Jan and Diane post-climb.
ABOUT RUTH REITSMA Ruth Reitsma was a member of the Mazamas from 1950 along with her husband Earl A. Reitsma. Together they were leader and co-leader of numerous climbs of various peaks in North America. Earl received his 36 peak award and Ruth received her 26 peak award. In June 1966 Ruth lead a successful all-women’s ascent of Mt Hood. Climbing partners included Dave Bohen, Edwin Rieger, Bill and Margaret Oberteuffer, Jack Grauer. Other climbing friends included the Whittaker brothers. A lifelong outdoors women her worldwide travels included living for two years in Afghanistan. Her appreciation of the outdoors was passed on to her children in numerous camping, hiking, skiing, and snowshoeing adventures. Rest in peace.
After descending I finally got to meet Diane and Jan, where I presented them with a Mazama Climb certificate for both Earl and Ruth. Our climb saw eight first time summits. But, this climb was bigger than all of us, and more important than reaching the summit for the first time. As a team, we were united in helping a family put their mother and brother to rest. I never knew either Ruth or Earl, but I felt privileged to be able to assist Ruth in getting one final Hood summit. Diane and Jan, don’t worry about your mother I will be checking in with her periodically.
JUNE 2018 19
A Night to
e t a r b e l e C
by Sarah Bradham, Mazamas Director of Marketing & Communications
O
n April 25, 2018 Mazama members gathered at The Evergreen in Southeast Portland to celebrate. It was a time to come together to honor the achievements of our members, to recognize the dedication and talents of our volunteers, and most importantly, to spend time together. The evening kicked off with an hour of social time. Attendees were treated to delicious food from Devil’s Food Catering, and an opportunity to enter win one of 20 awesome raffle prize—from backpacks to boots to puffy jackets! The venue was full with Mazamas of all ages and varying lengths of Mazama membership. We had brand new members who had just completed our Basic Climbing Education Program alongside 70-year(!) member Jack Grauer and all durations in between. The program was kicked off by Chris Kruell who welcomed the crowd to the annual gathering, and acknowledged our new 25- and 50-year members. Chris then passed the mic to Executive Lee Davis who shared details of the Mazamas history with the crowd. We then moved into the volunteer recognition portion of the evening with highlights from our committees and teams, and thank yous for the volunteers involved with those programs. Thank yous turned to congratulations as we moved into awards territory. First up was Bill Stein, Trail Trips Committee Chair, with the hiking leadership and participation awards. Bill also presented Terry Sherbeck with the Hardesty Cup, an award given annually to the Mazama who best exemplifies the spirit of volunteerism and service to the hiking community. Larry Beck, Climbing Committee Chair, then came on stage to present the climbing awards. He led off with the Guardian Peaks Award, given to those who have successfully summitted Mts. Hood, Adams, and St. Helens with the Mazamas. This year’s recipients were Teresa Dalsager (daughter of long-time Mazama member Dick Miller), Buzz Lindahl, and Gary Riggs. This was followed by the Oregon Cascades Award, which had a single recipient this year, Buzz Lindahl. The Oregon Cascades Award includes successful summits of Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, 3-Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister, and South Sister. The final climbing participation award was the 16 Major Northwest Peaks award—the crown jewel of climbing awards—which includes successful summits of all of the peaks already listed plus Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, and Mt. Shasta. This year’s recipients were Kurt Gusinde, Kim Osgood, Chris Rears, and Lisa Ripps. The final climbing award was the Terry Becker Award. This is a leadership award, earned by successfully leading the 16 Major Northwest Peaks. This award was first
continued on next page 20 MAZAMAS
2017 AWARD WINNERS PARKER CUP BILLIE GOODWIN HONORARY MEMBER DR. ANDREW FOUNTAIN MONTAGUE CUP JEFF HAWKINS HARDESTY CUP TERRY SHERBECK TERRY BECKER AWARD RICO MICALLEF BRUCE YATVIN 16 PEAKS AWARD KURT GUSINDE KIM OSGOOD CHRIS REARS LISA RIPPS OREGON CASCADES AWARD BUZZ LINDAHL
GUARDIAN PEAKS AWARD TERESA DALSAGER BUZZ LINDAHL GARY RIGGS
HIKE LEAD AWARDS TOM GUYOT (900) DAVID BRAEM (700) WAYNE LINCOLN (500) REX BREUNSBACH (400) MEG LINZA (200) LISA RIPPS (150) MARILYN ZIGLER (100) DAN SMITH, LARRY SOLOMON, JENNIFER TRASK (50) REENA CLEMENTS, KEITH DECHANT, GRETCHEN GUYOT, SUSAN KOCK, RICHARD SANDEFUR (25)
HIKE MILEAGE AWARDS RICHARD GETGEN (13,000) JIM SELBY (1,000) DAVID NELSON (500)
Each attendee took home a ceramic Mazama mug.
Top: An overview of The Evergreen during the program. Photo: Vaqas Malik. Above: Volunteer Extraordinaire George Cummings in his trademark suspenders. Photo: Vaqas Malik.
JUNE 2018 21
CELEBRATION,
continued from previous page
PARKER CUP BILLIE GOODWIN
HONORARY MEMBER DR. ANDREW FOUNTAIN
given in 2000, and only 14 leaders have achieved this milestone in 18 years. This year’s recipients Bruce Yatvin and Rico Micallef became the thirteenth and fourteenth awardees. Howard Buck then took the stage to honor Jeff Hawkins for his tireless effort to get the solar panels installed at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The solar panel project took more than 10 years to go from concept to fruition, and Jeff was the person who stuck with it all the way. For his efforts he was awarded the Montague Conservation Cup, which “recognizes and honors individuals who have had a significant and lasting impact upon the community through their efforts in conservation” and in protecting the environment. If you want to see the extent of the impact of the solar panels, you can go to beta.mazamas.org/mmc/ and see how much energy the solar panels are producing. Lee Davis returned to the stage for the biggest awards of the evening. Honorary membership may be bestowed upon “persons who have rendered distinguished service to the club, or who are eminent for achievement over a period of not less than ten years in climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research
THE TRUE MAZAMA SPIRIT by Sarah Bradham
MONTAGUE CUP JEFF HAWKINS
HARDESTY CUP TERRY SHERBECK
TERRY BECKER AWARD BRUCE YATVIN
TERRY BECKER AWARD RICO MICALLEF
22 MAZAMAS
To encourage Classics members to make the trek to the Mazama Celebration, we offered a shuttle service from the MMC to the Evergreen. Only three Classics members took us up on this offer—Jack Grauer, Ed McAnich, and Billie Goodwin. Mazama staff member Laura Burger volunteered to be our shuttle driver for the evening and drove Jack, Ed, and Billie to the Evergreen. At the end of the event, when her riders were ready to leave, Laura went to pull her car around to make the return trip to the MMC. I came downstairs to say goodnight to Jack, Ed, and Billie and was surprised to find they were no longer waiting in the entryway for Laura to arrive. I rushed outside to see where they had gone, and saw long-time member Flora Huber carefully buckling Jack into her waiting SUV. Seeing the three Classics in the lobby, Flora had wasted no time springing into action to take care of her friends and ensure they got home safely. Taking care of others, and making sure everyone always finds their way home safely—this is the true spirit of the Mazamas.
or outdoor activities.” The Honorary membership was bestowed upon Dr. Andrew Fountain, a world-renowned glaciologist at Portland State University, for his critical contribution to the scientific discourse about how glaciers worldwide are affected by climate change. The final award of the evening, the Parker Cup, is viewed by many as the most prestigious award at the Mazamas, and it recognizes members who have distinguished themselves by hard work, ability, and self-sacrifice for the benefit of the Mazamas. This year’s honoree fully embodies these qualities. She served on six committees in her tenure at the Mazamas, including Executive Council twice, and chair of the Trail Trips committee three times! Some of her achievements include expanding the weekly Street Rambles from once to twice a week; leading Mazama members at the SOLV Beach clean-ups for 17 years; leading more than 700 hikes and backpacks; hiking more than 6,000 miles with the Mazamas; and previously winning the Hardesty Cup for distinguished volunteer service in the hiking community. For her tenure
at the Mazamas, Billie Goodwin has demonstrated what it truly means to be a Mazama. To lead, to give, to share her knowledge with others, to not only be a part of our community but to have a hand in creating that community, and to help others have the life changing experiences she had when she joined our organization. To bring the evening to a close 70-year Mazama member and past Mazama President Jack Grauer took the stage to lead the crowd in our long-standing tradition of singing the Happy Wanderer. As the music began to play, the pride of the Mazamas was palpable, and the crowd joined Jack in a rousing send-off to the evening. Once the official program ended, members stayed to share in each others’ company for awhile longer. As attendees left, each took home a commemorative ceramic Mazama mug. It was an evening to remember, and one we hope to repeat for many years to come. Thanks to all who came out to celebrate and to be honored for their dedication to the Mazamas.
Below: Ed McAnich enjoys dinner prior to the program. Photo Vaqas Malik.
16 PEAKS AWARD LISA RIPPS
16 PEAKS AWARD KIM OSGOOD
Above: Jack Grauer leads the crowd in singing the Happy Wanderer to close the 2018 Mazama Celebration. Photo Vaqas Malik.
16 PEAKS AWARD CHRIS REARS JUNE 2018 23
The Summer Solstice: A Masochist’s Thoughts About How to Squeezing the Most Out of The Longest Days by Jonathan Barrett
F
ifteen hours and forty-one minutes. That is the length of the day on the Summer Solstice. Not including the extended light of dawn and dusk. The question is how to spend it. Here are a few ideas to be considered as guiding principles. While not everyone has that Thursday off, these principles would work just as well for the weekend warrior on the previous or following Saturday/ Sunday.
PULL-OFF A REALLY, REALLY LONG CLIMB
PULL OFF A REALLY, REALLY LONG APPROACH
Yes, Infinite Bliss in Washington is fraught with controversy, given that when it was bolted, it ended up being in an established wilderness area. But it is a really, really, long climb and as a result benefits from having a really, really, long day to complete it. One would benefit from having the longest day of the year as a matter of fact. At 23 pitches, it was possibly the longest “sport” climb in the United States or Canada when first bolted, but to call it a sport climb misrepresents what the route really is. Although the crux pitches are well bolted, there are run-outs of close to 100 feet. Additionally, if going up takes a long time, you also need to rap the route ... 23 rappels. A full day, and full use of the Summer Solstice. Substitute your favorite super-long climb as desired.
Most will climb Mt. Olympus over three days. Approach the 17+ miles on day one. Summit and return to camp on day two. Hike out on day three. But given a really, really, long day, a fit team could conceivably knock it out in “one day.” Consider the following: with some light jogging and fast hiking, you might be able to do the approach in around six hours. The climb to the summit and descent could happen in six or seven hours. Then one just needs to endure the slog out, another six hours. Given the length of predawn and post-sunset light (nautical twilight starts at 3:34 a.m. for that latitude and ends at 10:48 p.m.), a person has more than 19 hours of light, which is plenty of time. Assuming your feet hold up. The Olympics and Cascades are awash in long approaches, so it is easy to pick your poison when considering this use for the longest days of the year.
24 MAZAMAS
FIT MORE INTO YOUR DAY Given that the average Mazama is a working stiff, probably with fairly normal daytime hours, we are generally resigned to hitting our local crags only on the weekends. Evening sessions at the gym have to suffice otherwise. What if the day was a little longer? What about an alpine start to your cragging session? At 3:52 a.m. on June 21, you could be calling “on belay” to your partner and starting up a route at Ozone. Depending on traffic or where you work, this might give you four to five hours of climbing time, more than enough to leave your forearms so pumped you can barely type for the rest of the day. Those that find the early hours horrifying— although it is certain to be much more quiet—can replicate the experience, but after work. With usable light until 10:30 p.m., one could conceivably get a five hour session in after your day working for The Man. The Army is famous for the saying that they do more before 9 a.m. than most people do all day. Now you can say that you are more productive than the Army.
SUMMIT HOOD AND BE HOME FOR BREAKFAST
CATCH THE BEST LIGHT, FOR LONGER
A LONG HIKE TO AVOID OVERNIGHT PERMITS
This is one that I have pulled off myself. Sunrise is 5:21 a.m. in Portland on the solstice but from the summit it is a little earlier. You can catch those golden rays reflecting off the Columbia River and lighting up the Eastern Oregon desert and still be back in Portland in time for waffles and bacon with the family. Highfive the sun and descend as quickly back to Timberline as possible. With a little jogging, glissading, or skiing, being back at your car by 7AM is totally doable (safety first, of course). Then, when you arrive at 8:30 stinking like sweat, summit, and summer’s first rays, it will be the perfect compliment to breakfast along with some wild blueberry syrup. You can have both: a climbing life and a family life. You just might need to crash in the hammock for an afternoon nap though.
Photographers know that sunrise and sunset are the best for capturing the soft dewy light that is so prized in the making of quality images. Consider the fact that civil twilight lasts for 38 minutes on the summer solstice and only 29 minutes on the spring equinox. There is something astonishing about the fact that during this time of year, it’s almost like the Earth is rotating more slowly. This gives the artist thirty percent more time to capture just the right light illuminating the Crooked River and Asterix Pass at Smith Rock or Haystack Rock on the coast. There are some differences between the two times though. In some ways dusk is better because the photographer knows how the shadows and silhouettes are going to fall. All she needs to do is sit and wait for the right moment with the camera in position. In contrast, in the predawn hours, it is much harder to know what shapes, shadows, and textures are going to look like. When the sun finally does appear, having these few extra minutes can be a godsend as the photographer rushes about making final adjustments.
It is a fact of life in the Northwest that some areas are more difficult to access due to permitting issues. Getting a backcountry camping permit can be almost impossible during the busy periods of the year. The Enchantments is one such place where acquiring a campsite is impossible, but throughhiking is very doable. Over the course of a long day, it is possible to experience all that the area has to offer without having to be encumbered by both overnight gear and regulations. At a skoch more than eighteen miles, the trail through the Enchantments involves 7,100 feet of elevation gain if going from Snow Lakes to Colchuck trailheads and a kneebusting descent down from Aasgard Pass. With stashed bike at the end, it is possible to then zip (relatively) easily back to the car on (mostly) downhill roads. Although Colchuck would likely still be cold enough for a penguin, there is still enough time during the solstice to take a dip and ice your sore feet before grinding out the last four and a half miles.
Sunshine Route, Mt. Hood. Photo: Greg Simons
JUNE 2018 25
NATURE-BASED STRESS REDUCTION by Thomas Doherty, Psy.D.
N
ature-based stress reduction is a term I coined a number of years ago. It brings together two separate but very complementary strands of thought about (1) the benefits of mindfulness and (2) the experience of nature and the natural world.
There is a well-established school of thought around the benefits of mindfulness that includes the physiological health benefits of activities such as meditation and yoga and the psychological health benefits that come from calming our minds, improving our focus, and enhancing our mood. Mindfulness as a therapy tool, more specifically, mindfulness-based stress reduction (MBSR), was developed and popularized by Jon Kabat-Zinn at the University of Massachusetts Medical School in the 1990s. In the intervening years, mindfulness has become much more established and MBSR is now at the core of many mental health practices. My vision of nature-based stress reduction was inspired by MBSR and incorporates the health benefits of nature and the natural world. There is a vast body of work in environmental psychology and elsewhere related to this subject. While less well established than mindfulness, it’s becoming common knowledge that connections with nature and greenery, even including having plants and natural light indoors, are healthy for us. For example, state-of-the-art office buildings are being designed and constructed with the idea of bringing nature indoors. A case in point is Amazon’s new Sphere Complex in downtown Seattle that features conservatory-like glass domes containing hundreds of plants from all over the world.
THE NATURE PYRAMID A good starting point for thinking about ways to bring nature into our lives is the “nature pyramid,” which is modeled after the food pyramid. Urban planner Tim Beatley writes about the nature pyramid as a useful tool for considering how many “helpings” of nature we need to maintain healthy lives. Our more common experiences form the base of the pyramid. These are our
26 MAZAMAS
experiences of “nearby nature”—nature right where we are—that may occur often, such as working in our garden or walking around our neighborhood. As we go up the pyramid, we move toward experiences that are further afield and of greater duration. We might go hiking on the weekend, or take a tour or vacation. Our ultimate experiences are at the top of the pyramid. These include going on an extended trip; pursuing a more challenging adventure to really push our boundaries; or traveling to a place that’s particularly meaningful to us. Some places on the pyramid are “restorative-familiar” like returning to a camp we’ve visited for many summers. Other places inspire “diminutive experiences”—feeling small in the presence of grandeur at the rim of Grand Canyon or looking up at the Milky Way on a clear desert night. Another way to think about our exposure to nature is along a spectrum. On one end are our ordinary experiences of “nearby nature” in our town or right at home, such as playing with our pets, tending our houseplants, enjoying framed images of nature, or even virtually exploring nature through a video or game. At the other end of the spectrum our experiences are more
outdoors, more planned, greener, more impactful, and less technological.
YOUR COMFORT ZONE This leads into consideration of our comfort zone. I spend a lot of time outdoors. I just came back from a camping trip where we were off the grid. The sky was clear and we watched the full moon rise over the free-flowing John Day River in Eastern Oregon. It was strikingly beautiful. We hiked, sat around the fire, and saw animals. It was very quiet and so restorative. For me, it’s something I need to do monthly or quarterly to keep myself feeling healthy. I’ve camped for years. I have a lot of gear and I can throw together a trip rather easily. For someone else, an overnight camping trip might be a bigger undertaking or even a peak experience. It’s important to think about our comfort level and not underestimate it. In addition, it’s quite natural and appropriate to be afraid of things in nature. We might jump if we see a snake, and we do have to be careful when we go camping, hiking, or climbing. So, we need to be aware of our comfort zone and be willing to be at the edge of it and push it
by experimenting with something new, but not necessarily by throwing ourselves at things so hard that we can’t come back from them. For example, if we go camping, we don’t need to go so deep that we won’t have any access to help should we need it.
THREE FACTORS TO CONSIDER Two important factors to weigh when planning exposure to nature are our personal resources and the level of challenge. When some activity we’re planning seems beyond our resources, we may want to scale back the activity, or if fitness or skills are an issue, for example, we may enhance our resources by training or taking a class. I’ve done a lot of mountain climbing and when those climbs have been demanding, I’ve gone with a group or a leader with experience to boost my resources. There’s a third factor that also comes into play and that is the meaning of the experience. For an experienced outdoorsperson, a walk in the woods might not be very challenging. But when they walk in the woods and play in the grass with their two-year-old child, that otherwise mundane experience can become quite worthwhile. Even though an activity doesn’t place a demand on our
resources or isn’t physically challenging, it may still be meaningful. Years ago, when I was a professional river-rafting guide, I worked a couple of seasons in the Grand Canyon. One summer, we took a group of differently abled people, who were physically impaired, developmentally disabled, or terminally ill, on a trip through the Grand Canyon. It was one of the most powerful and rewarding experiences I’ve ever had. My routine took on a whole other meaning because of the people I was guiding. Another aspect of the meaning factor is when an experienced outdoors person takes on a great challenge and pushes so far outside of their comfort zone that they put themselves at risk. Considering the meaning of the experience may help them to think differently about the risks involved, just as it can help us figure out what our goals are. A classic dilemma in mountaineering is that the climber sometimes has to decide to stop before attempting the peak because it’s too dangerous. It’s a very difficult decision to make. The climber must weigh the level of the challenge against the meaning and decide whether it’s worth risking their or their teams’ life or safety to achieve the goal. Among elite climbers
pushing the boundaries of the sport the risk might be worth it. Most times not. Bringing the meaning into this type of decision-making can be really helpful. In general, the meaning of the outdoor experience lends itself to the psychology of why we explore the natural world. Searching for meaning requires mindfulness. This dovetails nicely with the restorative effects of being in nature, such as improving our ability to focus, to be creative, and to access memories and thoughts that may be difficult to retrieve otherwise. As you explore your plans for being in nature, consider these questions: Where are you on the nature pyramid? What’s your comfort zone? What are your resources and the level of challenge? How does meaning play a role? What are your goals? Author Bio: Thomas Doherty is a Mazama member from Portland Oregon. He is a fellow of the American Psychological Association and Past President of the Society for Environmental, Population and Conservation Psychology. He works with people through his psychology and consulting practice Sustainable Self www. selfsustain.com.
JUNE 2018 27
OUTINGS HIKING GLACIER NATIONAL PARK: JULY 22–28 Alternates Only. Spend a week hiking the trails in America’s most-beautiful national park: Glacier. There will be an assortment of A and B level day-hiking during the five days, led by Richard Getgen and Robert Smith. Wildlife sightings, mountains carved by intense glaciation, alpine lakes, wildflowers, and rushing streams await you. The group site will be at KOA in St. Mary’s and we will carpool to the trailheads. Cost: $220 members/ $280 nonmembers. KOA offers tent sites, RV hookup, and three types of cabins. Campsite/lodging expenses are not included in the cost. Contact Richard at teambears@frontier.com for an application. There will be a pre-outing meeting in the spring for participants to meet and receive additional information.
HIKING IN THE NORTH CASCADES: AUG. 12–19 This outing is for those who love spectacular mountain vistas and glorious alpine meadows. You’ll spend seven nights in fully furnished rustic log cabins surrounded by pristine forests in the foothills of Mt. Baker where you can almost reach out and touch the Canadian border. Each day we will carpool from the cabins to enjoy either a Bor C-level hike. The hikes will offer opportunities for wildlife sightings, wildflowers, waterfalls, and grand panoramic views of snow-capped mountains. Outing cost is dependent upon the number of participants, 9 minimum/12 maximum. Member range is $446–$333; nonmember range is $516–$403. The cost includes all fees and lodging. Each participant is responsible for his/her own food. Dinner is available at nearby restaurants. The signup deadline is May 1, 2018. A deposit of $200 is required upon acceptance of application. For more information please contact either Larry Solomon, muensterhump@hotmail.com or co-leader Sherry Bourdin, sbourdin@reig.com.
TRINITY ALPS HIGH ROUTE TREK: SEP. 8–14 Alternates Only. Join us as we hike a large portion of northern California’s Trinity Alps High Route. This ~35-mile alpine trek circumnavigates the Canyon Creek drainage and includes the summits of up to four named peaks in the Trinity Alps Wilderness. The six to eight participants will need to be in good physical condition and have experience in at least one 50-mile (or greater) trek. We will be traveling light and fast, up to 10 miles per day with daily elevation gains varying from near zero to almost 5,000 feet. A $100 deposit will be required upon acceptance. Contact the leader Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) or assistant Brooke Weeber (bweeber@gmail.com) for more information.
More information and applications available at tinyurl.com/maz-outings.
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Families Mountaineering 101 After three years and over 100 students graduated from Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101), Families Committee is thrilled to open the 5th annual class with Info Night on June 4 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. The committee is busy preparing and planning for the new class to begin in late August.
WHAT IS FAMILIES MOUNTAINEERING 101? Families Mountaineering 101 or FM101 is a program designed to train adult and youth climbers in entry level rock and snow climbing skills. It is also an incredible opportunity to get your entire family involved with alpine activities. Participants of the class will learn the skills required to be a competent member of a Mazama “A” or “B” level climb. In FM101, we offer parents and kids the opportunity to build a solid foundation of mountaineering skills including: rock climbing (belaying, rappelling, movement on rock, communication, and knots), snow climbing (snow travel, roped travel, self arrest, glissading, footwork, and avalanche awareness), car camping, navigation, outdoor clothing, conditioning, weather, first aid, leave no trace, and much more.
WHEN IS THE CLASS? The 2018–2019 class will begin in August and continues into January. The schedule will typically include one evening classroom session and one outdoor weekend activity each month. For an in depth look at the class structure, please visit beta.mazamas.org/fm101 and review the class details as well as the class calendar.
IS FM101 RIGHT FOR MY FAMILY? Does your family like to hike, camp or backpack? Do you already go to one of the many local climbing gyms together? Are you looking for ways to keep climbing while keeping your kids involved? If so, then FM101 is probably right for you. FM101 activities are ideal for children entering the third grade and older. If you think your child might be an exception to this, please feel free to contact us at fm101@mazamas.org. Since this is a Families Mountaineering class, we ask that parents be actively engaged in the class in one of two ways: Parents can enroll as a student alongside one of their children or if parents are not enrolled as a student, we ask that they participate as an assistant.
WHAT IS THE NEXT STEP? The next step is to come to the FM101 Information Night at 6:30 p.m. on June 4. This event will take place in the Holman Auditorium at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. On this night, we will provide everyone with a general overview of the class, talk about gear and introduce the coordinator and some key assistants. Applications will open for two weeks following Info Night, and people who attend will be able to discuss. If you have any questions about the class, please email fm101@ mazamas.org. For more general course information visit beta. mazamas.org/fm101. We look forward to seeing everyone at information night. JUNE 2018 29
Postcards From An Old Ice-Ax by Jonathan Barrett
ear Dad,
Y
[ July 8] D
Hood, e climbed esterday, w me this r the last ti probably fo ountain is e upper m season. Th and there tty boney, re p g in k o lo e way s well. All th a ll fa k c ro Juliet’s ntial ee ride on was substa fr a t o g I , r Rock r the final up to Crate have me fo to d la g s a soft and pack. She w snow was e th h g u o n th I gave slopes, eve kicked in. y d a e lr a s t and step t of contac with deep in o p d ir e cial th e. When sh her that cru ary balanc ss e c uld e o n c I e , mmit provided th e on the su ic e s th a h to e in nfident sh thrust me see how co d n a ced k ti c c a b ra ap stand years. With e th oated r e t v a o eaks th fl p become e th t u o pointed we have hand, she laces that p ll a , n o z Jefferson, on the hori ms, Helens, a d A : r e th nc e ge in the dista explored to re e h w e m o gether rs. S ill tackle to Three Siste w e w rs e red oth are a hund someday.
I
T
[ July 22]
Dear Dad
,
omorrow we are heading to Rainier, to climb the Emmons Glacier. R eports are out fairly that the ro badly, but ute is melt a line still e crevasses ed xists, wea . Juliet see v in ms nervou g between unpacked s the . S h it and the e packed h n repacke er bag and suppose th d it several tim at she sho es last nig uld be, giv leading a ht. I en that th climb team is is her first ti . I’m not w she and I. me orried. We She’ll kee are solid to p an eye o asks of me g n e m ther, e , and more and I will . Wish us do all that luck. she
[July 25] Dear Dad, am sure that you read the news reports about the accident. The papers got it mostly right. While descending the Emmons, one of our team members fell into a crevasse. Who knows why it happened .... Juliet had used me to probe before she crossed, and I didn’t feel the bottom of the snow bridge. Fortunately she was on the downhill side. Together we arrested the fall, and when she buried me in the snow as a deadman, I held as firm as I could knowing that her friend’s life was on the line, literally. I had never been in a situation like that before. Of course we had practiced for this scenario together. But this time it was legitimately scary. I was determined to not fold under the pressure, though. When we finally hauled Thomas out, he had a dislocated shoulder and his face was extremely bloody. I was proud of Juliet; she did exactly what she learned to do in her BCEP and ICS courses. She was so young then, so inexperienced when we first met. We are home at last. Don’t worry, she and I are safe secure now.
30 MAZAMAS
S
[July 30] Dear Dad, he brought home someone else last night. I have to admit I feel a little betrayed, considering all that we have been through over the years. Remember that time she carried me all the way in to climb the NE Buttress of Goode? Miles and miles, she schlepped me only to use me to chop about ten steps across the moat. Then it was a free ride up and over and out. Maybe it is because I am dinged up. Maybe I am a little heavier than I should be. (Why should she care now, when she never did in the past?) This new guy is French with a bizarre orange tinge that seems cheap and flashy in contrast to my elegant black and yellow. Not to be demeaning, but he has a bit of a Napoleon complex. Maybe it is because he is so short. When he hangs from her hand, he barely reaches her mid-shin. When she holds my head, I am tall enough to touch the ground, to give her balance. What does he have to offer? Only time will tell.
I
[Aug. 3] D
ear Dad,
t happene d. Juliet left me at home and took “Fren chie” to the Bugab o os this weekend. She tried to let me down easy and te ll me that to the clim he was be bing. He c tter suited ould fit in difficult p side her p itches; I w a ck for the ould just b Was I in th e in the w e way whe a y , she said. n we were was I a bu on Goode rden? My ? Since whe s iz e was certa Rainier. If n inly an ass you want et on to see long a at your Gre nd gangly at-Uncle A , take a lo l Penstock admit this ok ! Either wa seems to s y , I ig h n a v a e l And for us a change to and shift fo . r her.
[May 17] Dear Dad,
Y
ad ,
as worried . Initially, I w d ve o m e av as just say that I h closet she w er h in g am writing to n vi li of ven months oddest thing that after se ster, but the p e m u d e th n to drop m me in ip across tow tr going to toss l h ia it ec w t sp u a id o h e mad e tagged and la s a w happened. S I e le er tt h li gw little worn, a amas buildin f us looked a o ll off at the Maz A ur of e. m e k just li within an ho re if o e m cl r n o u n ’s ze a do e a monkey amined me n. Well, I’d b e up gently, ex m ed k out of fashio ic p an hat I was a young wom bucks was w ty ir h T e. being there m o as new. me h aid when I w d then took p d an a y, h ll et fu li re Ju ca what pite my dings , far less than perience, des ex m worth to her o fr rn o her say that nowledge, b d safe. I heard an g n ro But I have k st l il st years ago. I es. And I am me so many ti at th and scratch er b em Maybe P. God, I rem y optimistic. sl u o ti u ca she is in BCE but am what is next am not sure east after all. o for this ld b fe li ew n is there
ar D [April 2] De
I
ou should have seen her face this morning when the sun came up over Eastern Oregon. It was pure elation. Of course I kept her safe up the Old Chute. Maybe she held me a little too tightly which is why her hands went numb. Normally I am not a fan of being tethered to a harness--it makes me feel less nimble--but in this particular case I was a little concerned that she might fumble and drop me with those frostbitten fingers. What’s next for us? I am not sure. Hopefully I will get up Rainier again...but without the drama of the last epic. Maybe she’ll take me to Alaska or Peru. I can still recall the trip Juliet and I had made up Mont Blanc, how she leaned heavily on me as she gasped for breath. I can do that again for Amelia, be her steadfast companion. She seems feisty and unafraid. I have taught her how to use me to balance when
pooping on a glacier, and she just laughed and laughed at how ridiculous it all was. No, she’s not Juliet, but she is open to new adventures. And so am I.
JUNE 2018 31
ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart. GREAT BASIN LOOKOUT SAFARI
Thursday, June 14– Sunday, June 17
Featured Event
J
oin us for a weekend above Summer Lake in the remote Oregon Outback. We’ll begin at a fire tower rental overlooking Jefferson and enjoy sunset over the Metolius. Next, we’ll visit Crack-In-the-Ground amid the dunes of Christmas Valley, before settling at Fremont Point lookout cabin. From here, we’ll explore the remote headwaters of the Sycan and Chewaucan Rivers, returning Sunday. Leader: Toby Creelan (toby@ creelan.com); Cost $30/35 (members/nonmembers). Apply online at beta.mazamas.org/aym SATURDAY, JUNE 9—HIKE: WEST ZIG ZAG MOUNTAIN Join us for a challenging hike to the top of West Zig Zag Mountain near the town of Zig Zag. We should have beautiful weather and great views of Mt. Hood the whole way. We will ascend 2,900 feet to the top of West Zig Zag Mountain and then continue a bit further to the West Zig Zag fire lookout. Bring your camera and sunscreen. 11 miles, 2,900 ft. gain, Drive: 102 miles RT. Meet at Gateway Transit Center at 8 a.m. Leader: Kirk Rohrig (kirk.rohrig@gmail. com). Wilderness area. Group limited to 12. Sign up on our Meetup page or email the leader.
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SUNDAY, JULY 1 – SPECIAL EVENT: PDX HIKING 365 IN NW OREGON AND SW WASHINGTON (MAZAMA LODGE) Guidebook author and Mazama hike leader Matt Reeder has spent the past five years writing about the best places to go hiking throughout the year. His new book PDX Hiking 365 is the fruit of that labor, the first guidebook ever in the Portland area to organize hikes by month and season. PDX Hiking 365 offers quiet urban trails, rainforest rivers and open desert skies in the winter, hikes through fields of wildflowers in the spring, treks high on glaciated peaks in the summer and explorations through the finest fall color hikes in the fall. Books will be available for purchase after the presentation.
Check the website at beta.mazamas.org/AYM, and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$3 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted. MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶AYM Committee Meetings are on the fourth Monday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. ▶▶ Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. ▶▶ We also host board game night on the first Thursday of the month. Check the Meetup page for location as they rotate every month!
KEITH DECHANT
▶▶ Leader since: 2013 ▶▶ Mazama member since: 2010 ▶▶ Favorite activity to lead: Hikes with mountain views, waterfalls, or wildflowers; snowshoe trips ▶▶ I became a leader because: I had been hiking with AYM for years, often with Matt Reeder and Karl Langenwalter. I learned lots of places to go, so it made sense to start leading trips myself. ▶▶ Mazamas activities: AYM committee, hiking, camping, climbing, snowshoeing ▶▶ Leadership Philosophy: Find a destination many people don’t know about, and know the right season to go there. ▶▶ Favorite leader treat: Anything chocolate ▶▶ Other information: I’ve been to 29 countries and 49 US states. I’ve climbed one of the Seven Summits (Kilimanjaro) and that’s probably enough for me.
We are the bond stronger than any rope. Everything we make is designed by climbers, for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak and crag to give you absolute protection, comfort and mobility when you really need it.
NEXT ADVENTURE | PORTLAND W W W.RAB.EQUIPMENT
CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.
Featured Event
DICK AND JANE MILLER’S POTLUCK PICNIC—S ATURDAY, JULY 7 AT 12:30 P.M.
You are invited to Dick and Jane Miller’s home for their annual potluck picnic. Plan to attend and invite another Classic Mazama or significant other to share in potluck fashion: main dish, salad, or dessert. Lemonade and water will be provided, but if you have a favorite beverage please bring it along. Plates and utensils will be provided. Dick and Jane are at 17745 SW Cooper Mtn. Lane, Beaverton. Coming from the east, take Hwy. 26 to 217. Go south on 217 to the Scholls Ferry Rd. exit across from Washington Square. Take a right onto Scholls Ferry Road and go west to SW 175th Avenue. Turn right and go up the hill ¾ mile to Cooper Mtn. Lane on the left. This is on a curve with limited sight distance, so use caution making the left turn onto Cooper Mtn. Lane. Then follow the Miller signs and orange traffic cones to the Miller driveway. If you have any questions, call Dick or Jane at 503-590-3598. We’ll see you there!
CONTACTING THE CLASSICS
CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN
If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Flora Huber at 503-6585710 or flobell17@comcast.net, Executive Council liaison Steve Couche at 503-998-0185 or stephencouche@mazamas.org, or classics@ mazamas.org.
Our east side transportation pick up point is Gateway; our west side location is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.
VOLUNTEERS NEEDED We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. Positions we need to fill are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater and help or backup for same. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org if you are interested.
LEADING EVENTS IN JULY Send details to classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month for inclusion in the Bulletin.
UPCOMING CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING JULY 23 & SEPT. 24, 11 A.M.–12:30 P.M. AT THE MMC
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CLASSICS OPINION POLL The Classics Committee is conducting an opinion poll to solicit Classics’ preferences for events. We know some Classics don’t get email, so those wanting a copy may call the MMC to request a hard copy. Call the MMC front desk at 503-227-2345 and we will mail a copy. Please return poll by June 25.
WED. JUNE 13: HOYT ARBORETUM WALK Enjoy a 2-3 mile easy-paced stroll through the Arboretum. Plan to walk through Magnolia Trail, Vietnam Memorial, and Redwood Trail. About 300 feet elevation gain/loss. Meet at Arboretum visitor center at 10 a.m. Leader: Marty Hanson martyhanson@mazamas.org 503-227-0974
MAZAMA LODGE Your Home on the Mountain. Summer Hours Begin June 14: Open Daily Starting Thursday, June 14 Mazama Lodge will be transitioning to our summer hours. We will be open every day until Tuesday September 4, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. June 20–June 30 is already sold out, but there is plenty of availability July 1–July 5.
VOLUNTEERS DURING THE RENOVATION We are looking for volunteers during the 8-week renovation period this fall. We are seeking volunteers who will spend the night at the lodge (during the days you will be welcome to explore the area). Shifts begin on September 9 and finishing up on October 28 (weeks begin on Sunday). If you are interested in enjoying a week or two away from the city this fall reach out to Charles Barker at lodge@mazamas.org.
A FUTURE FOR MAZAMAS LODGE by Erica Stock, Mazamas Development Director Since opening its doors on New Year’s Eve in 1923, Mazama Lodge has served as a beloved gathering place for our community, providing a basecamp for epic alpine adventures and mountaineering education programs yearround. As a well loved and utilized structure for many decades, the heavy wear and tear on the lodge has spurred an urgent need for renovations to ensure ongoing health, safety, and accessibility. The lodge will close briefly for the first phase of multiyear renovations this September to upgrade bathroom plumbing and fixtures, repair stairways, and install external wheelchair ramps. Although the lodge is one of many benefits provided to Mazama members, the costs of lodge renovations are not covered by membership dues nor lodging fees. Consequently, donations are crucial to support this and future lodge renovations and upgrades. We ask that all Members add a $20 donation when renewing their memberships this year to help ensure the Lodge remains a gathering place for Mazamas, our family, and friends long into the future. Your $20+ donation can be made by mail or online at beta.mazamas.org. You can also pledge your support by emailing Erica Stock erica@mazamas.org. Thank you in advance for contributing to the future of Mazamas Lodge! Make a donation today! Go to beta.mazamas.org/donate.
SUMMER SPEAKER SERIES
In May–September we will be hosting a speaker the first Sunday of the month. The summer speaker series offers dinner at 5 p.m. and a program at 6 p.m. Dinner is $13.25. SWITZERLAND’S “BERNER OBERLAND” & THE HAUTE ROUTE: JUNE 3 Join Ann Ames and Tom Davidson to catch a glimpse of the Bernese Alps and to see the vibrant beauty of France and Switzerland from the Haute Route path. The Bernese Alps in Central Switzerland offer rugged glaciers and high alpine lakes, fervent meadows full of cowbell toting bovines, and a never ending landscape of trails for hikers of all abilities. The trip began in the cozy and high village of Gimmelwald for four days of hiking the Lauterbrunnen Valley trails, before starting the eleven day Haute Route trek out of Chamonix, France. The Haute Route is a lesser known Alps’ trek (125 miles) connecting Chamonix in the West to Zermatt in the East. We did not use a guide service or company.
PDX HIKING 365 IN NW OREGON AND SW WASHINGTON: JULY 1 Guidebook author and Mazama hike leader Matt Reeder has spent the past five years writing about the best places to go hiking throughout the year. His new book PDX Hiking 365 is the fruit of that labor, the first guidebook ever in the Portland area to organize hikes by month and season. PDX Hiking 365 offers quiet urban trails, rainforest rivers and open desert skies in the winter, hikes through fields of wildflowers in the spring, treks high on glaciated peaks in the summer and explorations through the finest fall color hikes in the fall. From January to December, you’re sure to find something perfect for each month of the year. Matt will describe some of this favorite hikes from PDX Hiking 365 from old favorites to obscure classics. Books will be available for purchase after the presentation
SANDOR’S MAGIC HOUR OF THE SUNSHINE STATE: AUG. 5 Recovering writer and filmmaker Sándor Lau relapses again with a photo show of his favorite magic hour shots of the sunshine states: California, Arizona, Nevada, and Hawaii. Show features shots and stories of adventures to Yosemite, Grand Canyon, Mt. Shasta, Mt. Whitney, Red Rock Canyon, Picacho Peak, Camelback Mountain, and Mt. Haleakala, all shot at the golden hour just before sunset and just after sunrise. Calendars and framed prints will be available with all profits going to Mazamas.
THE BEST OF TANZANIA: SEP. 2 Kilimanjaro via the Western Breach route is the most challenging and also by far the most dangerous way to summit but it is not as technical as it’s often portrayed. John Leary and friends found there are some tricky sections that require scrambling but not advanced rock climbing skills. The challenge offers the chance to do something unusual and to be different. Where all other routes take you to the crater rim, this route takes you inside the crater before topping out. They will also share their experience on safari post-climb. JUNE 2018 35
TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL
TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org. HK B2 Jun 01 (Fri) Hamilton Mountain Loop Ellen Burns 503-7038907. TGIF Hike. This very popular trail has a feast of features for hikers, including waterfalls, craggy cliffs, deep forests, superb vistas, and a loop option for the trek. 7.5 mi., 2,135 ft., Drive 88, StatePark, Fisher 8 a.m. (WF) MU HK A2 Jun 02 (Sat) Mt. Tabor and Neighborhood Loop Sherry Bourdin 503-314-2911. This hill walk will take you on all four sides of the park, skirting the three historic reservoirs in the park, a trek to the summit this old volcanic crater and forays into the surrounding neighborhoods. A great urban walk with lots of Portland history. 5 miles mi., 400 ft., Drive 0, SE 60th Ave and Stark Street 9 a.m.
HK C2 Jun 03 (Sun) Hunchback Mt. (Great Pyramid) (W) Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limited 12. This stiff hike begins from a trailhead next to the Zigzag Ranger Station on Highway 26. It is an excellent conditioning hike and the terrain is wild and rugged. 9 mi., 3,270 ft., Drive 76, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH,WO) HK B1.5 Jun 04 (Mon) Dog Mountain Loop Susan Koch 971-6783446. Extremely popular (crowded) spring and summer hike when the Balsam Root is in bloom. We will be on the trail during the less crowded weekday. Slower pace for this hike on the way up. 7.4 mi., 2,800 ft., Drive 98, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m.
HK C2 Jun 02 (Sat) Paradise Park ( from Hwy 26) (W) Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com. Exploratory approach for leader, who has been to Paradise Park from Timberline many times. Wilderness—Limited 12. This hike takes you up to and around Paradise Park, one of the most extensive and beautiful alpine areas on Mt. Hood. If you want to get a good impression of the different layers of climate/vegetation zones on the west slope of Mt. Hood this lollipop loop hike takes you from typical lowland woodland through the montane forest zone and into subalpine parklands. RSVP to leader due to Wilderness limit. 13.9 mi., 3,050 ft., Drive 82, TH, Clackamas P&R Garage 7:30 a.m. (WF,MH,WO) MU
HK A1.5 Jun 05 (Tue) Mitchell Point Flora Huber 503-816-5713. This short hike to Mitchell covers a lot of scenery. Steep hike with views of the Columbia River and many wildflowers. Bring hiking poles. 2.6 mi., 1,270 ft., Drive 130, TH, MMC 9 a.m.
Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.
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WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit beta.mazamas.org/hike for updates! WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES: TUESDAYS & THURSDAYS Multiple teams hike at different paces with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI– Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m. MT. TABOR STREET RAMBLES: WEDNESDAYS Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3 mi/hr.) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland to Mt. Tabor Park. In the park, we will take alternating trails to the top of the 280 stairs at the NE corner of the park. From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs, then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. 2 hours (arrive early to sign in) 5 mi., 500 ft., Drive 0, Mazama Mountaineering Center 503-227-2345 6 p.m. MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/mazaymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: beta.mazamas.org/AYM the top of a double-peaked summit of basalt. The upper part of the mountain is decorated with vast steep wildflower meadows in summer. Can pick up riders at Sunset Transit center (call me). 5.2 mi., 1,600 ft., Drive 96, Target/185th 9 a.m. (AR)
section between the two trailheads. 8.5 mi., 2,950 ft., Drive 60, Target/185th 8 a.m. MU
HK A1.5 Jun 09 (Sat) Scott Point Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier. com or 503-665-6778. Rugged boot path leads to a spectacular viewpoint on the SW flanks of Archer Mountain. Bring poles or you will wish you had. No dogs. Plan to share bridge tolls. 3.2 mi., 1,330 ft., Drive 80, Lewis & Clark— near toilets 9 a.m.
HK C2 Jun 09 (Sat) Hardy Mr. Hamilton Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. 6th annual birthday bash finds us hiking up the panoramic West Hardy Ridge to Phlox Point for lunch. Then down the East Hardy Ridge, cross a wooden bridge, and up Don’s Cutoff to summit Mt. Hamilton. Then back down and out. Bearers of luxury gifts will receive priority seating at lunch. Discover Pass needed for drivers. 14 mi., 3,400 ft., Drive 93, TH, Gateway 8 a.m.
HK B2 Jun 06 (Wed) Saddle Mountain Bob Breivogel 503-2922940. Mountaintop views that reach from the Pacific Ocean to Mt. Hood await you on this steep climb to
HK B1.5 Jun 09 (Sat) Elk/Kings Loop Brett Nair 503-847-9550. One of the harder day hikes on the Coast Range. Good conditioner. Great views from the two summits. A car shuttle will be arranged to eliminate the flat
HK A1.5 Jun 10 (Sun) Fort Vancouver Officer’s Row & Vancouver Waterfront Jim Selby 828508-5094. Meet at Park Headquarters, tour Officer’s Row and reconstructed Fort Vancouver, then on to refurbished
Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. MU: Hike is posted on Meetup. WF: Qualifies for Waterfall Award. AR: Qualifies for Awesome Ridges Award. GH: Qualifies for Gorge High Points Award. WO: Qualifies for Wild Ones Award. MH: Qualifies for Mt. Hood Award. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P
and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver. 99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for
hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
HK A2 Jun 06 (Wed) Greenleaf Peak Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Great viewpoint above Skamania Lodge. Observe Cascade peaks and the gorge, all from one spot. 5 mi., 1,920 ft., Drive 90, MMC 8 a.m. (AR,GH)
Providence Academy constructed by Mother Joseph. Walk through downtown to Farmer’s Market then on to the new Vancouver waterfront. Take the waterfront trail two miles to Wendy the Welder statue, have coffee, then return to cars via the Maya Lin designed Land Bridge, past reconstructed Fort Vancouver, optional tour of the Fort. Great views along the way. 5 mi., 150 ft., Drive 0, none, meet at Fort Vancouver, 1501 Evergreen, Van. 11 a.m. HK C2 Jun 10 (Sun) Salmon Butte (W) Bruce Giordano brucegiord32@ gmail.com. Wilderness—Limited 12. This is one of the more popular trails in the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness. The optimal time to visit is on a clear day in June, when the rhododendrons, beargrass, and other wildflowers are in full bloom with multi-mountain views. Contact leader to reserve space or first come firstserved at Gateway. 11.8 mi., 3,170 ft., Drive 90, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH,WO) HK A1.5 Jun 12 (Tue) Catherine Creek Flora Huber 503-816-5713. Rock arch, wildflowers and Gorge views. A pleasant hike but need to watch for tics and poison oak. Many trails and trail junctions are unsigned, so pay attention to directions. 5.7 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive 126, TH, MMC 9 a.m. HK B2 Jun 13 (Wed) Gales CreekStorey Burn Loop Tony Spiering 503680-8112. The area of Rogers Camp on Highway 6, with its lower elevations offers year-round hiking opportunities when other destinations may be under deep snow. This loop is a wellsigned forested hike with numerous creek crossings and a couple of small waterfalls. 8.1 mi., 1,645 ft., Drive 50, Target/185th 8 a.m. (WF) HK C2 Jun 13 (Wed) Buck Peak (Lolo Pass) Gary Riggs gary.riggs@outlook. com. One of the few opportunities to hike in the Bull Run. Buck Peak is the Multnomah County highpoint. It’s a quarter mile off the PCT and has a great view of Mt. Hood! 16 mi., 1,351 ft., Drive 100, TH, MMC 7:30 a.m. (AR) HK A2 Jun 15 (Fri) Lewis River Falls Joe Whittington joewhittington@ gmail.com. View and photograph three waterfalls along the Lewis River. Start at Lower Falls Recreation area then hike to Middle and Upper Falls. This is a photographer friendly hike and we’ll spend 30 minutes or so at each of the falls to get that perfect composition. Bring your tripods and ND filters and we can do two of our favorite things: play outside and take photographs. 7 mi., 500 ft., Drive 160, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (WF) MU HK B2 Jun 15 (Fri) Falls Creek (Upper & Lower) Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Enjoy the greenery and sounds of flowing water. This hike visist both the upper and lower tiers of Falls Creek Falls, which is among the largest and most powerful waterfalls in southern
Washington. Originating on the Red Mountain plateau, Falls Creek sends a considerable volume of water hurtling 335 feet over its valley 8.4 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 90, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Jun 16 (Sat) Breakfast at Devils Peak Lookout Cool Creek Mamiko Okada mamiko927@hotmail. com. Wilderness—Limited 12. Quick and steep breakfast hikes! After 1000ft/ mile for 3.8miles We will have breakfast at Devils Peak. Bring your breakfast and coffee/tea. Fast hike. Ascent 2mph/ decent 3-4mph. RSVP please. Contact to leader if you have any questions. 7.6 mi., 3,200 ft., Drive 100, TH, Gateway 5 a.m. (MH) MU HK B2 Jun 18 (Mon) Saddle Mountain Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Fresh air and flowers. Mountaintop views that reach from the Pacific Ocean to Mt. Hood await you on this steep climb to the top of a double-peaked summit of basalt. The upper part of the mountain is decorated with vast steep wildflower meadows in summer. 5.2 mi., 1,600 ft., Drive 96, TH, Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR) MU DH A2 Jun 19 (Tue) Yale Reservoir Logging Road Don McCoy donald1020@aol.com. We will meet at the Cougar Rest area and drive to the Trailhead at the North end of Yale Reservoir. The trail is the former International Paper logging road on the east side of Yale Reservoir. We will turn around at the Canyon Washout. Leashed well-behaved dogs are welcome. 7.4 mi., 300 ft., Drive 0, Cougar Rest Area 8:30 a.m. HK A1.5 Jun 19 (Tue) Upper Laurel Hill Flora Huber 503-816-5713. Interesting historic part of Barlow Trail. Trail marker telling about “grandma” staying in the wagon while it was being lowered. Start at historic marker on Hwy 26. Includes Little Zig Zag Falls. 4 mi., 500 ft., Drive 100, MMC 9 a.m. HK B2.5 Jun 19 (Tue) Pre hike to the Summit—Mt. St. Helens Mamiko Okada mamiko927@hotmail.com. Wilderness—Limited 12. We will hike to 4,800 feet from the Marble Mountain Sno-Park to Swift Creek, Loowit Trail, Climber’s Trail and back. You will see and experience the start of the Mt. St. Helens climbing route! 8 mi., 2,200 ft., Drive 160, TH, MMC 8 a.m. MU HK B1.5 Jun 20 (Wed) Kings Mountain Tony Spiering 503-680-8112. Forested hike with a good viewpoint at the summit. Provides some conditioning with a 2,500 foot gain in 2.5 miles. Back in town early PM. 5 mi., 2,500 ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 8 a.m. HK B2.5 Jun 22 (Fri) Knebal Springs/ Bottle Prairie Loop Hike William O’Brien wobobr123@yahoo.com. Popular mountain bike trail that offers nice opportunities for hiking. The loop trail passes thru a unique pine/oak woodland as well as has nice views of
Mt. Hood from the east. Should be fun! Long pants for ticks please! 9 mi., 2,300 ft., Drive 194, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (MH) MU HK B2 Jun 23 (Sat) Table RockRooster Rock (W) Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@ gmail.com. Wilderness—Limited 12. Table Rock is a 4,881-foot remnant of the Old Cascades jutting above the Camp Creek and Table Rock Fork of the Molalla River Summit views from Mt. Rainier to the Three Sisters. 10 mi., 2600 ft., Drive 130, Gateway 8 a.m. (WO) HK C2 Jun 27 (Wed) Table Mountain from the North Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Great way to ascend Table Mountain and avoid the long approach from the south. Some light bushwhacking on the off trail approach. 14 mi., 2,700 ft., Drive 110, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR,GH) BP Jun 29 (Fri) Steen Mountain Gorges Loop Bob Breivogel breivog@teleport.com. Wilderness—Limited 12. This challenging backpack visits one of Oregon’s premier scenic areas. We’ll hike up Big Indian Gorge to the Steens Mountain summit. Traverse north along rim to Little Blitzen Gorge, which we will then descend. We will allow 3 days and 3 nights actual hiking for the trip, starting from the South Steens camp trailhead on morning of June 29. Challenges include steep scrambles up and down canyons, stream crossings, and the general desert environment. Plan to return to Portland by evening of July 2. Reach me at breivog@teleport.com or 502292-2940 to discuss your interest. HK B2 Jun 30 (Sat) Siouxon Creek (to Wildcat Falls) Ellen Burns 503703-8907. Practice crossing creeks ... if water level allows. The Gifford Pinchot National Forest’s Siouxon
Roadless Area is part of the 1902 Yacolt Burn and the lush growth here is really a 100-year forest although much of it is younger than that because fires continued to erupt in the area until 1930 or so, when the Civilian Conservation Corps came in and built trails and firebreaks. This loop takes you to some of the main waterfalls of the Siouxon Basin. 10.2 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive 70, Fisher 8 a.m. (WF) HK C2 Jun 30 (Sat) Gumjuwac Saddle to Jean Lake (W) Brett Nair 503-847-9550. Wilderness—Limited 12. Jean Lake is one of the more secluded wilderness destinations you will find that is accessed by such a short trail. It lies nestled in a lush meadow 900 feet above Badger Lake in the Badger Lake Wilderness. 10.5 mi., 3,000 ft., Drive 180, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH,WO) HK A2 Jul 01 (Sun) Wind Mountain Ken Park kjpark96@ gmail.com. The Wind Mountain hike is a unmaintained but fairly well-conditioned trail to the summit of Wind Mountain, a 1907 foot cinder cone in the Columbia River Gorge just west of Dog Mountain in Southwest Washington. 2.7 mi., 1100 ft., Drive 94, Gateway 8 a.m. (GH) MU HK C2.5 Jul 06 (Fri) Table Mountain Loop via Heartbreak Ridge Ken Park kjpark96@gmail. com. We begin on trail easements through private forest land located on the hummocky terrain of the historic Bonneville Landslide, passing through clearcuts to Gillette Lake before crossing Greenleaf Creek. The grade steepens until you arrive at the base of Table Mountain. Then ascend to the summit via the aptly named Heartbreak Ridge Trail. 16 mi., 4,300 ft., Drive 84, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR,GH) MU
MAZAMA TRAIL TENDER
June, 28, 29, 30
Volunteer for 1, 2 or all 3 days! Each year the Mazamas repair and maintain our namesake trail on Mt. Hood opening it up for the hiking season. Every season since the Dollar Lake fire we have encountered more trees down so a good turnout is really helpful. Tasks will include cutting logs, trimming brush and clearing drain dips. No experience necessary, distance and elevation listed is the maximum, some days will be shorter. 8 mi., 2,000 ft., Drive 100, TH, MMC 7:30 a.m. MU Richard Pope 503-860-8789. Wilderness—Limited 12. JUNE 2018 37
THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting date is Tuesday, March 17. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting at this location: https://mazamas.org/members/executive-council-reports/ (you will need to be signed into the Mazama website to access this page). by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager President Chris Kruell called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 4 p.m. on Tuesday, May 15. Chris reviewed the meeting’s agenda and asked for approval. Motion carried to approve the agenda. Secretary Traci Manning reviewed the minutes from the April meeting and asked for approval. Motion carried to approve the minutes. Traci reported that membership at the end of April stands at 3,430. Traci noted that the Mazamas suffered a larger than normal number of drops for dues nonpayment in December of 2017, though our methods of counting membership status have been impacted by our changeover to our new IT system. She also reported that the organization has not recovered as many reinstatements as in previous years. We are entering into our traditional late spring and summer membership growth period where program capacity drives new membership applications. Treasurer Marty Scott reported that at the end of February, total operating revenue for the year is $574,691, and total operating expenses are $767,940. Total assets are $1,213,809. Revenue and expenditures are both tracking better than budget, and we are projecting to end the year on budget overall. This meeting of the Executive Council was a continuation of the Council’s Spring Retreat. Denis Lee, the retreat facilitator, returned to help guide the council’s discussion around a range of topics. Denis started the discussion by listing the critical conversations developed at the retreat. He separated them into two categories: those that have a strategic impact and those that are administrative. The council chose to tackle the three strategic impact topics related to mission and vision, “why change” alignment, and the socialization of change first. Denis noted the interrelated nature of the three issues and recommended discussing them in tandem. The ensuing conversation centered on ensuring the board’s alignment on the organizational mission and high-level vision.
38 MAZAMAS
The council’s focus next turned to working through three strategic direction decisions. The idea for a new waterfall ice class came out of the retreat, and the board requested that council member Preston Cordless work with Justin Rotherham and Matt Blanchard to develop a proposal and work it through the Education Committee since that is the more appropriate place for any action. The board will schedule a conversation with Adam Baylor about stewardship activities and his ability to manage both stewardship and advocacy work going forward. Vice President Laura Pigion asked that the council defer a decision on the Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock until the June EC meeting to allow more time to develop options. Steve Couche stepped out of his role as a council member to address the council as a Mazama member during the member comment period. Steve remarked on how great the PDX Community Night event was. Following the member comment period, the discussion turned to the administrative topics generated from the Spring Retreat. First up was a proposal to create a diversity, equality, and inclusion (DEI) advisory board. Council Secretary Traci Manning will continue to work with Claire Nelson to refine the idea and return to the June meeting with further details. The discussion then shifted to the topic of Mazama organizational roles and responsibilities. The conversation focused on defining and clarifying the responsibilities of and relationships between the important positions (EC, Executive Director, Department Heads, and Committee Chairs) within the Mazamas. The council then discussed issues surrounding program capacity and leadership development. Council member Marty Scott related a conversation she had with Justin about using the Canadian Alpine Club’s new model as a blueprint to develop leaders across the Mazamas based on a set of hard (technical) and soft skill sets. The discussion about
administrative topics ended with postponing a review of long-term financial sustainability until Lee, Marty, and representatives from the Mazamas Foundation have a chance to talk in detail. The public part of the meeting ended with an abbreviated Executive Director’s report. Lee shared with the council the Forest Service’s announcement that it denied the joint request by the Access Fund, the Mazamas, and several of our partner organizations for an extension to the comment period on the implementation of climbing permits for the Central Cascades. Lee noted that when Mount Saint Helens instituted individual permits, Mazama climbs dropped by 80 percent. Lee indicated that other states are watching to see what happened in Oregon as a bellwether for what might occur nationally. Lee wrapped up his report with an update on the recent lawsuit pending against Clackamas County. The suit is in response to the handling of a 2017 climber’s death on Mt. Hood. After noting potential implication that may stem from the lawsuit and related media reports, Lee stated that other organizations are looking to the Mazamas and asking for help on how to engage. Lee distilled the issue and asked the council if we should respond to these requests as a Portland based climbing club with primary concern for impacts to the Mazamas itself, or should we respond as a regional thought leader concerned with how this affects outdoor and mountain recreation generally in Oregon? President Chris Kruell noted that the Mazamas is well known enough to have an opinion and should take a broad stance. The council agreed that the Mazamas should take a leadership role in responding especially if our partners have asked for us to engage. The meeting then adjourned into Executive Session. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, June 19, at 4 p.m.
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