May 2019 Vol. 101 | No. 5
Bulletin
Round the Mountain 2019! Timberline FKT Emerge Gorgeous: Forest Born in Fire Then & Now: Historic Images
Top: Jesse Applegate on Forbidden Peak. Photo: Andrew Knight. Above: Hiking on Mt. Shuksan with Lower Curtis Glacier in the background. Photo: Vaqas Malik. Right page, to p: Cascades Pass, North Cascades National Park, October 2018. Photo: Sue Dimin. Cover: Reid Vandewiele having fun at Tamanawas Falls on an AYM joint hike and Hood River Fruit Loop adventure. Photo: Reena Clements
MONTHLY CONTENT Upcoming Activities, p. 4 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 6 Mazama Library, p. 24 Sayibng Goodbye, p. 25 Membership Report, p. 27 Classics, p. 28 Mazama Lodge, p. 28 AYM, p. 32 Travel Programs, p. 33 Outings, p. 34 Trail Trips, p.36 Executive Council, p. 38
ADVERTISER INDEX Davis Financial, p. 19 Embark Exploration, p. 19 Green Trails Maps, p. 39 Llama Treks, p. 2 Next Adventure, p. 35 Peru Andes Discovery, p. 19 Vaqas Malik Photography, p. 19 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/MazamaAdvertising
CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 am.–7 pm.; Fri. 10 am.–2 pm.
FEATURES Families Mountaineering 101, p. 7 Sometimes, It is the Destination, p. 8 Trail of the Vagabonds: A Ramble Down the Coast, p. 12 Timberline FKT (Fastest Known Time), p. 14 Cascade Forest Conservancy Protects Public Lands in Southwest Washington, p. 16 BCEP: The End Is Just the Beginning, p. 20 Round the Mountain, p. 22 Emerge Gorgeous: Forest Born in Fire, p. 26 Should We Allow Dogs in the Backcountry, p. 29 Then & Now: A Selection of Historic and Contemporary Images, p. 30 Smith Rock Climbers' Ranch Update, p. 33 MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):
Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028; Phone: 503-272-9214 Hours: Thu. Noon–Sun. Noon
SARAH BRADHAM Acting Executive Director sarah@mazamas.org
RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator reneefitzpatrick@mazamas.org
ERICA STOCK Development Director ericastock@mazamas.org
MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org
MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org
CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@ mazamas.org
LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@ mazamas.org
KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org
CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
PUBLICATIONS TEAM Editor: Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Reymond Drew, Lindsey Garner, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Ali Gray, Tyler MacBeth and Katie Polanshek (publications@mazamas.org)
MAY 2019 3
UPCOMING ACTIVITIES & EVENTS MAZAMA CLIMB LEADERS
MAZAMA MOUNTAIN RUNNING CAMP
The Climbing Committee has scheduled the following classes for climb leaders to update their qualifications. You can find all of the climb leader classes and register at mazamas.org/calendar/education/
Aug. 2–4 at Mazama Lodge
▶▶ Climb Leader High-Angle Rescue Recert: Saturday, May 4, 8 am–5 pm at the MMC ▶▶ Climb Leader Crevasse Rescue Recert: Saturday, May 18, 8 am–5 pm at the Timberline Lodge or White River. ▶▶ Climb Leader High-Angle Rescue Full Course: May 22, 29 at the MMC & June 1 and 2 at the Horsthief Butte
Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at beautiful Mazama Lodge, the Mountain Running Camp is geared towards road and trail runners interested in taking their running to the mountain environment as well as honing their mountain running skills. This 21/2-day, 2-night camp includes group runs, clinics, training plans and philosophies, instruction by top level runners, and more, all in a gorgeous setting! Led by Yassine Diboun, Joelle Vaught, Amy Sproston, and Jason Leman, this camp will get you ready to confidently run and explore the mountains on your own. Transportation, meals (excellent quality, fresh foods, vegetarian and gluten-free available) are included, along with bunk-style lodging. Mazama Lodge is at appx. 1,500 ft. below historic Timberline Lodge. Runs will take place between 3,000–6,500 ft. in elevation. Get details at: mazamas.org/mountainrunningcamp/
EMERGE GORGEOUS: FOREST BORN IN FIRE
ROUND THE MOUNTAIN
Friday, May 17, 7–8:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center
Aug. 30–Sept. 2 at Mazama Lodge
Join us for this special multi-media presentation about fire. Take to the air, the ground, and to the top of the mountain for a visual journey into the past and see how the amazing forests of the Gorge, Mt. Hood, and throughout the West have burned and emerged gorgeous. This engaging multimedia presentation will feature historic photography from fires that burned near Zig Zag Mountain, Government Camp, and Mirror Lake. These older fires and recent burns along Vista Ridge, Tilly Jane Trail, and Gnarl Ridge are teeming with new life and amazing views. Visit these burned forests in bloom, as they teem with fields of wildflowers, new homes for wildlife and provide amazing vistas. Get details on page 26.
Join the annual Mazama Labor Day Tradition! Each year, the Mazamas celebrate their love of Mt. Hood with a 3-day hike around the Timberline Trail. Join us as we set out from our base camp at Mazama Lodge each day for a 13 to 14-mile adventure. We carry only day packs because each night we return to the lodge for great food, hot showers, a cozy bunk, and stories from your day on the trail. Your adventure includes all meals and dorm lodging. Shuttle vans will transport you from our meeting place in Portland to Mazama Lodge, as well as to/from the trail head each day. Get details on page 22 and at: mazamas.org/rtm
REQUEST FOR BULLETIN SUBMISSIONS Alex Honnold may be able to do it solo, but we can’t! You are the Mazamas. Your stories, your adventures, and your knowledge define the club. The Bulletin should represent that. With your help, we can produce a better product for you. The Publications staff is a talented group of writers, editors, and "you-can-do-it!" cheerleaders willing to help you transform your knowledge and narratives into feature content to be shared with your fellow Mazamas. What will we publish? Just about anything of interest to the club: tips and tricks, stories of trips taken, reporting on club events, profiles of people, poetry, news from the climbing world, and on and on. There are two ways that you can get your ideas into print. The first is to tip off our crack team of writers about your idea and let us do all the heavy lifting. The second is to share with us a draft of your contribution, and we can help polish it up. Our staff includes experienced editors capable of working with you to craft top-notch writing. Pitch us your ideas by emailing publications@mazamas.org
4 MAZAMAS
MAZAMAS QUASQUICENTENNIAL: EVENTS & ACTIVITIES by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager In case you missed it, this year marks the Mazamas 125th anniversary! A slew of things are planned to celebrate this historic moment in the organization’s long history. Below are brief summaries of the different events, activities, and publications happening during the coming months.
125TH ANNIVERSARY OPEN HOUSE & BLOCK PARTY! While we hope you will get out and explore over the anniversary weekend of July 19–21, we invite you to join your friends and fellow Mazamas at the Mazama Mountaineering Center on Sunday, July 28 for an open house and block party. We will have fun, food, cake, climbing walls, community partner and activity booths, science experiments, historic exhibits, tours, and more! For more information or if you’d like to volunteer to help make this event possible visit here: http://bit.ly/125Party
125TH ANNIVERSARY HIKES, RAMBLES, AND MORE Check the Mazama calendar to sign up for 125th anniversary events the weekend of July 19–21.
125-MILE CHALLENGE Join over 300 other Mazamas, hikers, and walker in the 125-mile challenge. The Mazamas challenge you to hike, climb, snowshoe, or ramble 125 miles in 2019! While we encourage you to strive to reach 125 miles, we know that may not be possible or reasonable for everyone. There are several levels in which you can take part: 75, 100, and 125 miles. We will have rewards for each of the three levels completed. The challenge runs from now
until Sept 30, 2019. Registration is currently open and will remain open until May 15, 2019. Go here for registration, rules, and inspiration: http://bit.ly/Maz125mile
MAZAMAS THEN & NOW For over 125 years the Mazamas have explored the Pacific Northwest. From the river valleys to the mountain peaks, Mazamas have covered a lot of ground, many with camera in hand. The Mazama Library and Historical Collections have thousands of images from all over the West. As part of the Mazamas 125th Anniversary celebration, we are looking to recreate some of these historic images. Several Mazama photographers have already gotten started by recreating images of the Mazama Lodge, Mount Hood, and Smith Rock. Head on over to http://bit. ly/125ThenNow to check them out. We are looking for other Mazamas to help us out. As you spread out to explore, climb, and hike in 2019 consider trying to recreate one of these historic images. We’ll add them to the collection and share them for all to enjoy. Happy hunting!
WE CLIMB HIGH VOLUME 2 Over two dozen volunteers have been hard at work for several months reading fifty-one years of Mazama Bulletins and Annuals to help make Volume 2 of We Climb High a reality. John Scott’s We Climb High is an invaluable resource for anyone wishing to learn the history, events, and challenges of the Mazamas first 70 years. The first volume was published to coincide with the Mazamas 75th Anniversary in 1969. Look for limited editions of Volume 2 to be available starting in July to correspond with the 125th anniversary.
SHARE YOUR MAZAMA STORY We invite you to share your Mazama Story. It could be your first climb, a first ascent, or a memorable hike. Perhaps it’s watching a friend, child, or mentor start climbing or achieving something great. It could when you participated in the hike of a lifetime or your 50th climb of Mt. Hood. In short, we’d love for you to share with us the Mazama story that has the most meaning for you. Your story, along with those of other Mazamas, will be included in our evolving oral history collection. Look for the Your Mazama Story booth at upcoming Mazama events.
HISTORIC LANTERN SLIDESHOW The Mazama Library is collaborating with the Oregon Historical Society (OHS) to produce and present a lantern slide show of historic mountaineering images. Drawing on images from both institutions, the show will celebrate the Mazamas 125th anniversary while telling the story of early Pacific Northwest mountaineering. Staff from the Mazamas Library and OHS will present the show at venues in the Portland metro area and hope to take it on the road around the state. Watch the eNews, website, and upcoming Bulletins for presentation dates.
125TH ANNIVERSARY MERCHANDISE Last but not least, let’s not forget the 125 branded merchandise! We have a selection of 125th-anniversary logo merchandise available for free stickers, as rewards patches, and thank you gifts pint glasses. We are also sourcing other quality products while being mindful of the adding excess material to the waste stream. We’d love your input: http://bit.ly/125Merch Watch the eNews, website, and upcoming Bulletins for how to get your hands on logo branded gear.
MAY 2019 5
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES OFFICE VOLUNTEERS Are you looking for a fun and interactive way to get to know the Mazama community and programming better? Do you find yourself with free time during the week? Office volunteers support staff with everything from answering phones and emails to organizing supplies and helping to manage our database. At the Mazama Mountaineering Center, office volunteers are often the first face and voice that members and nonmembers interact with, so if you are a friendly person who’s looking to share your inspiration to love and protect the mountains, we want you! Apply at tinyurl.com/mmcofficevolunteer.
CONSERVATION COMMITTEE MEMBERS Are you interested in protecting public lands? Do you want to be part of the Mazamas’ long history of environmental stewardship? Consider joining the Conservation Committee. Our next meeting is on April 24 in the MMC downstairs lobby from 7–9 p.m. Questions? Contact co-chairs Tom Bard at 503-312-9196 or bardtom535@gmail.com or Kate Evans 503-635-6540 or kateevans97@gmail.com
MMC FACILITIES VOLUNTEER Looking for a different kind of volunteer opportunity with the Mazamas? Want to get a deeper look behind the scenes about how to keep the Mazama Mountaineering Center up and running? Want to learn all you’d ever want to know (and possibly more) about the current state of recycling? Well, we’ve got the volunteer niche for you. Our Building Manager, Rick Craycraft, needs help! The flexibility of this commitment is almost open-ended. We will provide training, possibly hand off certain responsibilities directly and work with you to find out how your interest level and skills can be put to use in the service of our organization. We are currently in need of someone with exterior painting experience. Help us spruce up the MMC for spring! Please email leftfield5@juno.com if you would like to volunteer.
YOUTH OUTREACH VOLUNTEERS Do you enjoy working with youth? Do you enjoy climbing and sharing that passion with others? The Mazamas Youth Outreach Climbing program is in need of volunteer belayers and climbing instructors at Youth Outreach Climbing events. These events occur periodically, predominantly in winter and spring, all days of the week, and all hours of the day. Sign up for one, or for many! Contact molly@ mazamas.org to learn more.
LIBRARY ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks. Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests. Volunteers should have an interest in mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices help, but not required. Please contact Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections, at mathew@mazamas.org to learn more. If you are interested in any of these roles, email volunteer@mazamas.org. 6 MAZAMAS
TRANSITION TEAM UPDATE by Marty Scott, Mazama Vice President The transition team has taken the next step in our search for an executive director for the Mazamas. I’m pleased to report that the Mazamas has signed a contract with The Valtas Group out of Seattle to partner with the Mazamas to find our next Executive Director. Valtas specializes in nonprofit and social enterprises and has prior experience working with outdoor oriented and mountaineering organizations and as such seemed to be a perfect partner to work with on this recruitment. In the past few weeks, the lead consultant from Valtas has met with the members of the Executive Council, staff members, and a selection of volunteers to learn about the Mazamas and the desired characteristics and qualifications for our next executive director. In addition, the members of the transition team have reached out to Mazama members and volunteers for additional input on characteristics and qualifications. The lead consultant will complete a draft profile to present to the members of the Executive Council for review and feedback. We hope to finalize this profile by the end of April which will allow us to begin communicating the job opening to members and potential applicants by early May. If you know of anyone who might be interested in applying, please encourage them to do so. If you have comments or questions regarding the transition, please email the transition committee at transition@ mazamas.org.
FAMILIES MOUNTAINEERING 101
E
2019–2020 ON THE HORIZON
ntering its 6th year, Families Mountaineering (FM101) has created a fun and adventurous community of families within the Mazamas. In five joyous years, FM101 has provided over 125 people an opportunity to experience the mountains, climbing and learning with great people of all ages. Our community programs are led by dedicated volunteers who are passionate about supporting families to learn to climb together as a family. WHEN IS THE CLASS? The 2019–2020 class begins in September and continues through January. Generally, the schedule includes one evening classroom session and one outdoor weekend activity each month. The official FM101 calendar and a more in-depth look at class structure will be available at mazamas.org/FM101
IS FM101 RIGHT FOR MY FAMILY? Do you love mountains? Does your family like to hike, camp, or backpack? Have you always wanted to climb with your kids? Go to the climbing gym but want to climb outdoors? Are you looking for ways to keep climbing while giving your kids an opportunity to learn? If so, then FM101 is probably right for you. We welcome all levels of prior experience, and are looking for people moved by mountains who are motivated to learn. FM101 activities are ideal for children entering the third grade and older. If you think your younger child might be an exception to this, please feel free to contact us at fm101@ mazamas.org. Since this is a Families Mountaineering class, we are structured with at least one parent actively engaged in the class in one of two ways: parents can enroll as a student alongside one or more of their children, or if parents are not enrolled as a student, we require that they participate as an assistant.
WHAT IS THE NEXT STEP? Come to the FM101 Information Night at 6:30 p.m. on June 3, 2019, at the Holman Auditorium in the Mazama Mountaineering Center. On this night, we will feature a demo from youth students, general overview of the class, and review the schedule for this year’s program. The application process will be open June 17, 2019.
MAY 2019 7
Sometimes, It Is The Destination Article and photos by Regis Krug
I
’m sure that you’ve read the quotation attributed to Ralph Waldo Emerson, “It’s the journey, not the destination.” Well, sometimes, it is the destination. A couple of years ago, I came across a post on the website oregonhikers.org about a plane crash (a Mooney M20C, a four-seat, propeller-driven, general aviation aircraft, featuring low wings and tricycle gear) on the north side of Mt. Hood. I was surprised to learn that most of the plane was still on the mountain. The fluids had been drained and the engine removed, but the rest of the plane was still on the mountain. I was
8 MAZAMAS
intrigued. Generally, all traces of crashes are removed if it’s practical. I’ve been researching some historical aspects of Mt. Hood and have never seen an actual plane crash, so this added another category to my research and another quest to my queue. While researching this crash, I discovered that there are also several other crash sites on or near Mt. Hood. A couple of fighters, a bomber, and a passenger jet all have debris strewn about the mountain. I had a general location for the north side crash, so I set a goal of finding it this summer. A stranded big rig (another story) on Cloud Cap Road squashed the first attempt and heavy smoke the following weekend kept me off the mountain. In
early August, Dan Smith and I headed up the Timberline Trail from Cloud Cap, but we weren’t thrilled with the Eliot crossing and turned around. We decided to try again the following weekend, but Dan called me at 3am on Saturday and said he couldn’t make it. I decided to go anyway. The Eliot Branch crossing was severely damaged this past winter, but with the exception of a little bit of vertigo, the crossing turned out to not be a big deal on the large log lower down the canyon. I was soon headed around the north side of Mt. Hood on the Timberline Trail on a chilly, but beautiful Saturday morning. St. Helens, Adams, and Rainier were still wrapped in smoke and clouds, but Mt. Hood was clear as a bell. It didn’t take long
to reach Compass Creek, my jumping off (the trail) point. The ice cave that was present last year was nearly gone with just half an arch remaining. The waterfall that was hidden behind the ice cave, however, had opened up. The crash site was nearly a thousand feet somewhere above me, just below the Langille Glacier, which is the source of Compass Creek. Scrambling up the boulders on the left side of the creek, I was soon standing on top of the two-tiered waterfall that had been hidden from view the previous autumn. A massive canyon stretched before me – the left side was an endless scree slope rising up to the Langille Crags high on the northeast flanks of the mountain. To the right – a steep, unnamed ridge rose nearly vertical to a knife edge, topped with massive boulders and trees. On Google Earth, this looked to be pretty easy with the ridgetop the most logical route up the mountain, but now it appeared impenetrable, so I crossed over to the east side of the ridge. Here I was faced with a steep scree slope dropping from the cliffs above, but it looked more doable. As I worked my way across the slope to the tree line on the far side, I began to question the entire adventure. Everything I stepped on moved, threatening to unceremoniously toss me down the mountain. It reminded me of the dinner plates on the approach to Mt. Thielsen. The trees on the upper end looked Sunrise on Mt. Hood
inviting and I couldn’t wait to get off this unstable slope. Once I reached the trees, the slope became even steeper and the hard-packed soil did little for traction. In an attempt to find a better route, I climbed toward the ridgetop, pulling myself up by small trees and roots, wondering all the time how I was going to get back down. I decided to worry about that later. I soon reached the top of the ridge, which had widened and made the going a lot easier. The trees thinned and I was soon working my way higher through alpine meadows strewn with massive boulders and split by the meandering east fork of Compass Creek. Lupine, Penstemon, Asters, Paintbrush, Fireweed, and pink Monkey flowers were still plentiful and vibrant at this high elevation. Coming around a large boulder field at about 6800 feet, I spied a flash of orange among the gray andesite. It turned out to be the right wing of the Mooney M20C that crashed in 1975. An inexperienced pilot (227 total hours) was flying from Redding, California to Hillsboro, Oregon. He found himself in some snow and ice in December and the plane was not equipped to be flying in those conditions, nor was he trained or certified to be flying in it. He basically flew his plane into the mountain due to being in conditions neither he nor the plane should have been in. continued on next page Crossing the Eliot
MAY 2019 9
Crossing the scree
Destination, continued from previous page I found the fuselage and left wing 50 yards further up the mountain. It had been completely flattened by the weight of heavy snow over the last 43 years. The engine and fluids were removed shortly after the crash. You can easily identify the two seats and the instrument panel with the canopy completely gone. There is supposed to be a tarn up here (aptly named the Mooney Tarn), so I climbed higher, shooting for a small notch in the ridge above. The temperature dropped and the clouds moved in as I
scrambled over the boulders heading higher. It felt like rain. I was glad to be prepared for any weather. The East Fork of Compass Creek twisted through the boulders, picking up speed as it headed down the mountain. Reaching the notch, I gasped as my eyes took in the beautiful, teal green tarn before me at the base of the Langille Glacier. Surrounded by boulders of every size, the wind created ripples across this tiny pond high on the mountain. On the far side of the tarn were recent boot prints as well as goat and dog tracks in
The Ice Cave is gone, but now the waterfall is visible
the soft sand. I know a few friends were up here recently. Turning around, the secluded tarn looked like an infinity pool in the clouds. Through the notch, Mt. Adams was barely visible far to the north in the smoke and clouds. Resting here on a boulder, the feeling was indescribably serene as the clouds rolled in above me. I didn’t want the moment to end, but I needed to leave before being enveloped by the threatening storm. Coming down from the tarn, I spied the tail section of the M20C a bit further to the west hidden amongst the boulders. It too has been flattened by tons of snow over the last few decades. I left the alpine meadows and headed into the trees following what looked like a deer or elk trail, pursuing it for several hundred yards before it took a sharp turn to the west, dropping nearly vertical for Mooney Tarn
10 MAZAMAS
Fuselage and left wing of the Mooney M20C
75 to 100 feet. Halfway down, grasping the edge of boulders, slipping and sliding, I realized that going down further was getting very dangerous. There was nothing more to hold onto and going back to the top of the ridge didn’t seem a viable option. I slowly started a horizontal traverse back to the south, working my way down with just the edge of my boots on the hardpacked soil, zigzagging my way back to the original scree slope that I’d crossed earlier in the day. One slip and I’d either be impaled on a tree branch or end up in a broken heap in the boulder field just below the tree line. As much as I wasn’t looking
forward to the unstable scree slope, I was thrilled to get off that hard-packed dirt just above the trees. Crossing the scree slope took me to just above the waterfall again, and after an easy scramble through the boulders, I was back at the Timberline Trail. That last paragraph might sound a little melodramatic, but I was on some relatively dangerous slopes, and on my own. If I fell, it would probably have been a few days before anyone found me. It made the situation very stressful, and I was exhausted by the time I reached the Timberline Trail.
After having some lunch and filtering a liter of water from Compass Creek, it was a relaxed and uneventful hike back to the Eliot. I opted to try the crossing higher in the canyon instead of the log I’d used in the morning. The Eliot was boiling with afternoon runoff, but I found a spot where I could hop across a few boulders and then walk through some shallow water to the south side. After slogging 500 feet up the switchbacks, the adventure was over. The journey was fun and challenging, but the Mooney Tarn and the lofty view from the upper slopes of my favorite mountain was the highlight of my day.
MAY 2019 11
Trail of the Vagabonds: A Ramble Down the Coast Short Sand Beach
Article by Jonathan Barrett, Photos from the Rodney Glisan Collection
I
t was at a lecture on the 1859 Pig War that my former history professor, Stephen Beckham of Lewis and Clark College, gave where I first learned of the “Trail of the Vagabonds." He had finished delivering his presentation, and we were chatting afterwards, catching up like old friends do. I told him that I was writing for this publication, that I was still engaging in the practices of a historian, and that the Mazamas was approaching its quasquicentennial celebration. "Yes, yes! Rodney Glisan," he said. "I wrote a manuscript on him once. He did this delightful ramble down the coast in August of 1909. I’ll send you some information so you can track down the typescript." A week later, I received an email from him containing a section of the journal which read, “Secured meals at hotel near the creek, and bath in the ocean, and after lunch Erskine and Miss Biddle went fishing. Mrs. Biddle went down to the beach.” What I later found at the Oregon Historical Society was Glisan’s account of their “tramp down the Oregon Coast” as he called it: 160 miles by foot and 48 miles by boat from Seaside to Newport over a dozen days. The six of them comprised an unlikely party of adventurers taking a trip that probably could not be replicated in the current day. In calling his adventure, “The Trail of the Vagabonds," Glisan was not exaggerating. He and his comrades--Mrs. Biddle, Miss Biddle, Ilse Koehler, Kenneth Beebe, and Erskine Wood-meandered down the coast in the style of a wandering hobo, sleeping in barns at night and plucking huckleberries to accompany their freshly caught salmon. On the second day, Glisan noted in the journal that they spent three hours bathing in the breakers, “taking lunch and loafing on the beach, while Erskine wandered up the stream and caught a dozen trout." This became a common theme in the journal. In Nehalem, he notes that after, “Securing a prize watermelon, we filled up the gaps of an otherwise rather scanty lunch, and buying everything we could think of from tea to socks and stick candy." It was a dirtbag
12 MAZAMAS
lifestyle mixed with the whimsy of childhood. Lest one think it all romance and ease, I discovered that there were also moments that probably caused them to stop and reconsider their plans. On the fifth day, they found refuge at the farm of Mr. Galloway who lived near Sand Lake. Glisan writes, “After some hesitation we were promised a meal, but were at a loss for sleeping accommodations until an inspection of the barn with its newmown hay relieved the situation. The ladies chose the salt marsh hay on the north side above the horse stalls for their sleeping quarters, and the men the oat hay on the south side of the barn above where the cows resided, but omitted to throttle the mule which woke us up at dawn with its awful bray." Such were the ups and downs, both literal and figurative of their excursion. On that same day he notes they, “Lost half hour 9:40 to 10:15 waiting while two of the party went back for a coat which had been pulled out of the pack by the brush in hunting for the trail." There is
something comforting in knowing that the caterwauling of beasts in the early hours and ill-packed rucksacks have bedeviled our Mazama predecessors as well. Buried within the journal’s text is a portrait of a coastline in transition. Farms still predominated, but there were signs of change coming to this region of Oregon. While rowing with a strong back was still a common way to traverse the bays and river mouths, a gasoline-powered launch captained by Mr. Anderson was the means by which they were able to view the wreck of the schooner the Antelope which ran aground at the mouth of the Nehalem River only two years prior. As well, Glisan writes of, “Picking our way among fresh lot stakes and signs with the questionable wording ‘sold’ on them” just north of Nehalem. Soon the beach house would come to predominate on the Oregon Coast, and he bore witness to its infancy in these lines. Ultimately, the trip was one that suggests a life of leisure. There are even hints at the current fashions of #vanlife and Instagram in his writings. South of Siletz Bay, the gang stopped to marvel at the sea from the top of a steep cliff face. “The water was several hundred feet deep close to the rock, and instead of an even line of breakers green swells would suddenly rear up and with a roar climb up the cliff, the green water turning to a creamy white, causing geysers in the tunneled rocks on the uplift and waterfalls and cascades as the waves withdrew...I secured a photograph of a wave whose foamy crest rose fifty feet above the ocean and the spray driving in between a narrow passageway dropped in a watersheet on three of the party on the cliff above, dampening everything but
their enthusiasm.” Just two nights earlier he writes, “Mrs. West gave us dinner, but had no accomodations and could not supply further meals, evidently afraid of our appetites." It was a hungry group indeed. Rising early each day, they hiked quickly, sometimes covering three or more miles per hour across the beaches, dunes, and rough trail. Their feet must have fed a hearty appetite indeed. But there were moments of idleness as well. On the second night
he notes the following: “After dinner we hurried down to the slope above the ocean and watch the sun sink in a mass of highly-tinted clouds on the horizon, and then built a beach fire and threw in a wide strip of copper sheathing wrenched from a piece of wreckage, which gave brilliant hue and green flames, making a most attractive light." It is an evocative image: the six of them gathered together before the flames with a feeling of bonhomie in the air and the endless Pacific pounding the beaches below them. A century from now, I wonder what future Mazamas will think of my own rambles amongst the mountains and forests of the Northwest. When they read my notes of climbing at Smith on a busy day on October or my free and easy passage into the heart of the Jefferson Wilderness, will they stop and marvel as well? Most likely so. “Saturday, climbed the Stanley-Burgner on Prusik with Jarred Jackman. Five hours camp to camp. Got scared halfto-death in the 5.9+ flaring offwidth. I stopped to fill my belly with huckleberries on the way out.” If I had a pole like Erskine, I might have considered devouring a brace of freshly caught trout as well. Author: Jonathan Barrett has been a member of the Mazamas since 2006 and a publications team member since 2017. His preferred food delivery system is the burrito.
Arch Cape
Timberline FKT (Fastest Known Time) Article by Tyler Green
M
y dad used to tell me the story of his own one-day journey around the mountain (Mt. Hood). He joined a guided trip through the Mazamas. They would run the downhills but mostly hiked at a good clip. He recalls sitting at the top of Gnarl Ridge, resting and having a snack with the rest of the crew, when this beast of a man comes running up the trail, offers a brief “hello,” and continues on. My dad was deeply impressed, to the point that he would continue telling of the moment years later. I wondered if I could do that—run the mountain and, even more, make my dad proud. On August 28 in 1982, John Coffey ran around the mountain faster than anyone would for some time. They put on a race on the trail in those days and his time stands out among the rest, his 6:24:33 besting the competition by nearly 20 minutes. I made a few attempts to get connected with Coffey because I'm quite curious about what that race and the trail were like. I was unable to make the connection but discovered that he attended the same small private school I work and coach at, which is a fun coincidence to add to the storyline. You know where this is going, right? I wanted that record. The Timberline Trail boasts a verty profile and offers a veritable tour of the mountain that rises out of the Portland skyline. To become acquainted with Mt. Hood you can take a trip up to
14 MAZAMAS
Timberline Lodge or ski its slopes. To know the mountain you must circumnavigate it; descend and ascend its robust canyons, cross its rivers, and see it from every angle. The Timberline Trail was built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression. Mountains are dynamic landscapes, and this trail has shifted over the years. Wikipedia tells me the trail once stretched 36 miles, but it now registers in at 40.5 miles with 10k feet of elevation gain. A couple years ago a portion of the trail washed out by a 2006 storm was repaired, adding another half mile and 500 feet of climbing. I’ve run the Timberline Trail every year for the last 5 years. I fell in love with trail running on that trail, squealing with delight as I ran the wide open moonscape on the eastern slope. The next year,
in 2015, I went for the unsupported FKT. I’d had a hard season of racing and never let myself recover, but I wanted to take a swing at the unsupported record of 7:30 set by Ryan Ghelfi and Ryan Matz earlier in the summer. I was dealt a perfectly cool and sunny day, but in this game, there is no escape from suffering, so every other aspect of the journey was a steady stream of brutality. I lost the trail for at least 10 minutes, never found my rhythm, suffered from horrible knee and hip pain that I later discovered was a stress fracture, gave up, decided to keep going, bonked, and bonked again. Still, I just snuck under that record in 7:28:15! I was on top of the world! ... until Max King went out and demolished it by a whopping 50 minutes. In 2018 I began thinking about the Timberline FKT once again. I raced early in the summer but left the rest of the season open to freely explore or, when needed, take some time off. I also wanted to keep the early fall open for this speed attempt. If I was even capable of getting close to King’s or even Coffey’s times, I’d need to fully commit and treat the effort like a race. This meant a good build up of training and a quality taper. I optimized other aspects of the effort by choosing an overcast day at the end of September when temps were cooler and starting from the lowest point of the trail. Starting at this low point near Ramona Falls requires a three-mile approach (and tortuous exit), but the reward is worth the vertical cost upfront: the closing 20 miles contain two minor climbs and a long, mostly gradual descent. My plan was to wreck myself early and often over the first 20, then stay swift and hope I could hang on all the way back to where I started. September 30 couldn’t have been more prime. I was perfectly comfy in my all day tee the whole way around as the temperature hovered at 55 degrees and the sun peeked through the cloud layer only once. This is the time to run the Timberline Trail, people! The red and yellow vine maples and maroon huckleberry were a brilliant contrast to the gray day, and the rivers stayed low and narrow. My buddy Jordan drove me out to the trailhead and we took a slow and meandering walk to the starting point. I’d thought about this moment for years, and now it was time. I glided down to the Sandy River excitedly, made an efficient crossing, and settled into a comfortable pace up the first major climb, a gradual but lengthy 2,000 feet up. This grade is just so that running is required if somewhat taxing. From there I got a nice groove down Zig Zag Canyon and back up the sneakily challenging climb to the lodge. I’d covered the first ten miles in 1:32 and felt strong, but that didn’t matter because I’ve learned to not scoff at 30 more miles of rugged terrain. Still, I was tracking a few minutes under Coffey’s record pace with a tough section in the rearview. The next ten miles are the hardest of the entire trail. The climbs get steep and technical, and the sand is deep and slow. I’d run this section on an out-and-back while training for the FKT attempt, and it rocked me pretty good. That run was considerably slower than record pace and put a dent in my confidence. Crossing these rivers quickly requires experience so you’re not wandering aimlessly in a vast riverbed searching for cairns. I’ve lost my way around here too many times before to commit this mistake again. I plowed through the rocky terrain in the Hoka One One Evo Mafates, which Rachel very fittingly calls her Monster Truck
Rally shoes, without a hitch. The sand, however, is unavoidable. It sucks away your life and the early spring in my step was wavering. I chose to be patient in these sections, to focus on finding solid footing, to move smoothly. Ascending Gnarl Ridge had me spooked; it was the first time I felt gassed, and only halfway there. Another 1:44 had elapsed, and I was officially behind schedule. How do you run another 20 miles faster than the 20 you just ran? On belief. Well, on belief and the wondrous fact that you now have a heck of a lot more downhills than ups. The Flow State is the point at which the challenge of an activity is met with the appropriate level of skill. Time falls away, you become fully immersed and involved in the moment, joy ensues. This is why I’d come to this trail at this time and set this challenge. Climbing up hills on a trail run isn’t much fun, but it tests grit. Running back down is where all the fun is had. I felt solid and attentive to each step and ran the next 10 miles in 1:31. I was back on track. Along the way I had only briefly halted at stream crossings to dip my bottle for an occasional refill. There was never going to be time to treat the water, and I was fine with that. I was consuming two gels each hour as well. The fueling plan was minimal but calculated. The final ten miles were an exhilarating mixture of emotions and grit. I knew I would be close to Coffey’s all-time speed record. The technical descent from McNeil Point was an absolute blast to navigate each step, but I did take a trip on a root and slid along my stomach. At this point, some five miles remaining, I was feeling the twinges of cramps while hopping over rock waterbars and streams. Attrition was inevitable, so I continued to pour my attention into my attitude and belief that I could do what I’d dreamed. When I thought of both Coffey’s and King’s times, I really only hoped they were within reach and, if they were, figured they were barely so. Still, I chose to believe I could run around Mt. Hood faster. I held that belief throughout the 6 hours 10 minutes and 58 seconds circumnavigation. I held the belief when I took that belly slide. I held the belief when the cramps began. I held the belief when I decided I wouldn’t walk until I had reached the end. Then, with a mile to go before reaching the place I had begun, I stopped believing and started celebrating. I smiled helplessly. The mile floated by effortlessly and with great joy. I’m indebted to my friend Jordan for his on-the-ground support of this effort and the regular generosity he offers to the many who know him. Territory Run Co. has encouraged me to dream big the last few years, and I’m deeply thankful for the support and community they provide, as well as support from Skout Backcountry and Evolution Healthcare and Fitness. Braden Spotts was also along for this ride and traveled to a couple spots around the mountain to catch some footage of the run. I’m excited to see how that turns out and will post his project here when it’s available! It’s a simple and somewhat frivolous undertaking, to run around a mountain at speed, but my life-partner Rachel, family, and friends still cheer me on in these ill-conceived endeavors. I’m quite blessed. Author: Tyler Green grew up on a volcano in Portland, Oregon called Mt. Tabor and joined the Mazamas after high school. He teaches middle school English and health and coaches high school track and cross country. He and his fiancé, Rachel, are getting married at the Mazama Lodge in June. Photo: Upper Left: Tyler on his epic journey. Inset: Photographic evidence of the record. MAY 2019 15
CASCADE FOREST CONSERVANCY PROTECTS PUBLIC LANDS IN SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON Article by Barry Buchanan, Photos provided by the Cascade Forest Conservancy
O
n May 18, 1980, Mount St. Helens erupted, lowering its summit approximately 1,300 feet, leveling large tracts of forest, generating massive mudflows, and clouds of ash and reshaping the landscape. Two years later, after a land-swap agreement with commercial interests, a previously reluctant President Reagan signed a bill declaring 110,000 acres around the mountain as a national monument, protected for research, education, and recreation. The transcendent monument sits within the boundary of the 1.3 million acre Gifford Pinchot National Forest (GPNF), home to Mt. Adams, the Goat Rocks, and Trapper Creek among other wilderness areas quite familiar to Mazamas. In 1985, spurred in part by renewed timber operations near the popular trails along the Lewis River, a citizen’s action group named the Gifford Pinchot Task Force (GPTF) formed to help protect the national monument, to inventory old growth and advocate for conservation in surrounding forests, submitting alternative forest management plans to the Forest Service. Today they are known as the Cascade Forest Conservancy (CFC), a nonprofit dedicated to protecting and preserving the forests, streams, wildlife, and communities in the heart of the Cascades through conservation, education, and advocacy. The Mazamas have supported the CFC with conservation grants and other actions for over ten years. If you want to learn more about CFC in person, they are hosting a screening of nine inspiring short films from the Wild and Scenic Film Festival on Saturday, May 4. More information about tickets is available under the “What Can a Mazama Do?” section of this article. Today CFC is focused on many initiatives in addition to forest protection. Three are highlighted here.
MOUNT ST. HELENS: NO PLACE FOR A MINE On the doorstep of an active volcano, along a beautiful, clean river—the Green River valley is truly no place for toxic mine tailings ponds which have proven prone to breaches. Several attempts have been made to start up mining operations just outside the
16 MAZAMAS
border of the Mount St. Helens National Monument in the Green River Valley. The area was purchased by the National Forest Service using public funds originally dedicated for conservation and recreation. It is home to the Goat Mountain Trail, an equestrian camp, and bountiful wildlife, including critical wild salmon and steelhead populations (24 subpopulations listed under the Endangered Species Act). The Green River, a candidate for Wild and Scenic designation, feeds eventually into the Toutle River, then the Cowlitz River
watershed, which is densely farmed and supplies drinking water for communities in southwestern Washington. The river is designated by the state of Washington as an official Wild Steelhead Gene Bank. Most communities, conservation groups, and recreation groups in the region have officially rejected the mining proposals. So far, three previous attempts to start exploratory mining by multiple companies have failed thanks greatly to CFC’s efforts. However, following a Forest Service go-ahead late last year, on December 3 , 2018, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) gave final approval to Ascot, a Canadian mining company, to begin exploratory drilling in the Green River Valley. CFC is leading a coalition of 31 conservation and recreation groups— including the Mazamas—to protect this pristine valley through legal, grassroots, and legislative means.
CLIMATE RESILIENCE Over recent years, Mazamas have been eyewitnesses to rapid changes in the Cascades. As warming is expected to move the timberline upward, shrinking alpine and subalpine zones, it is important to have the best possible understanding of the evolving needs of resident wildlife to support species adaptation and help preserve what we can. CFC has researched and developed a Wildlife and Climate Resilience guidebook centered on three major categories of ecosystems—aquatic, forest, and (dear to Mazamas) alpine. The guidebook is an important resource to focus conservation and restoration efforts. It is published online to supplement planning by other groups and government agencies. Areas critical to wildlife habitat and migration must be identified, preserved where possible and in some cases restored,
to reduce climate impacts on species. Based on research in this guide, CFC has launched several restoration campaigns. For aquatic species, CFC is spearheading restoration work to build more side channels for streams along with riparian plantings to provide shade, reducing water temperatures. For forests, CFC is monitoring resident species, identifying critical habitat and old growth forest, biodiversity zones and wildlife movement corridors, prioritizing roads to be removed and restored. One interesting new project has been in the works over the past year; CFC is partnering with the Cowlitz Tribe and the Forest Service to strategically introduce more beaver to GPNF. Beavers, a once very plentiful native species, on their own, create stream side-channels, improve water quality and enhance fish habitat. Alpine ecosystems are, of course,
important for more than just recreation. The wildlife we encounter on high altitude climbs that magically enhance our outdoor experiences—subalpine flowers, butterflies, pikas, marmots, martens, wolverines, and mountain goats— depend on the cold, rocky landscape and intermediate meadows. Alpine areas are important for consistent water supply to lower ecosystems. CFC has identified subalpine focus areas for monitoring on the southern and western slopes of Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier. Other strategies encourage forestry practices that reduce encroachment of the subalpine by intense wildfire, support designation of subalpine “refugia,” monitor vegetation changes to target restoration efforts, and collect seeds and pine cones for use in future restoration.
CITIZEN SCIENCE All of the important work above requires support from local communities and other organizations. CFC invites citizens to volunteer for conservation trips, providing training and equipment for data collection and environmental surveys of wildlife, streams, forest and roads. Restoration projects, such as post-fire seeding and riparian plantings, are also options for volunteer participation. More recently, CFC is excited to offer special outings to engage youth and connect them to the outdoors. Young Friends of the Forest is a program that works with local middle schools and high schools to bring students into the forest field trips to learn about and help with conservation projects. CFC works closely with teachers to create experiences that align with curriculum. For some young people the experience can be life-changing as it is the first time they experience the outdoors, camping and wildlife.
WHAT CAN A MAZAMA DO?
Visit the Cascade Forest Conservancy website (cascadeforest.org) to learn more. ▶▶ Sign up for a CFC volunteer trip on the website. ▶▶ If you live in Washington, please contact your local and congressional representatives and tell them you categorically oppose mining in the Green River valley. ▶▶ Download and read the Climate Resilience guidebook. ▶▶ Attend an event, like the May 4 Wild and Scenic Film Festival screening! CFC will be showing nine short films about conservation and outdoor adventure at Clark College in Vancouver. Tickets and synopses of the films are available on the CFC website, and all proceeds go to CFC’s programs: cascadeforest.org/get-involved/ wild-scenic-film-festival MAY 2019 17
T
he 2019 Awards & Volunteer Recognition Evening: A Mazama Celebration returns on Wednesday, May 1. Join us at The Evergreen, 618 SE Alder Street, from 6–9 p.m. to enjoy an evening filled food, friends, and fun! Mazama Awards, including the Parker Cup, Hardesty Cup, 16 Peaks, Mazama Honorary Member, and many more will be awarded to their deserving recipients. There will be slideshows and stories celebrating Mazama volunteers, and postcards where you can write a note of thanks to a volunteer who has made a positive difference in your life. And of course, there will be plenty of time for you to socialize with your Mazama friends, and hopefully meet some new ones. Get your tickets today at mazamas. org/mazamacelebration/ so we can accurately plan food and commemorative glasses!
18 MAZAMAS
MAY 1
6-9 P.M. THE EVERGREEN (618 SE ALDER)
MAY 2019 19
BCEP
THE END OF BCEP IS JUST THE BEGINNING. Article and photos by Teresa Dalsager
It’s Sunday morning at Horsethief Butte and four Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) teams have gathered to complete their required rock session. Everyone's stoked for the day and wondering if the rain will hold out long enough so they can climb, rappel, belay from above, and practice fixed-line travel. To our great relief, the weather cooperated, and as we drove away around 3 p.m., the rain began to fall. Timing is everything! Since 1943 the Mazamas has offered some version of a basic climbing program, preparing and empowering thousands to experience the mountains with confidence. For many of us, BCEP is just the beginning. As the climbing season unfolds, newly graduated BCEP students (and many of us) will be gifted with lasting memories of accomplishment, friendship, and lessons learned. On that day at Horsethief Butte, climb leaders, assistants, and BCEP students discussed what makes BCEP special and sustainable year after year. All agreed that CAMARADERIE is an invaluable ingredient. And so in perfect Mazama fashion, we created an acronym ... for the love of the mountains.
Climbing Adventure Mountains Anchor Rock Attitude Determination Environment Respect Inclusiveness Empowerment
20 MAZAMAS
MAY 2019 21
ROUND THE MOUNTAIN
E
ach year, the Mazamas celebrate their love of Mt. Hood with a 3-day hike around the Timberline Trail. Join us, as we set out from our base camp at Mazama Lodge each day for a 13 to 14mile adventure. We carry only day packs, because each night we return to the lodge for great food, hot showers, a cozy bunk, and stories from your day on the trail. Your adventure includes all meals and dorm lodging. Shuttle vans will transport you from our meeting place in Portland to Mazama Lodge, as well as to/from the trailhead each day.
DATES: AUG. 30–SEPT. 2 MORE DETAILS: MAZAMAS.ORG/RTM
"I had a great experience when I went through Round The Mountain last year. Mazamas does an AMAZING job putting this event together. All the logistics are taken care of including transportation, lodging, and food. They also did a good job of grouping people into similar hiking levels, so if you would rather take things slow and enjoy the journey they've got you covered!" -MacKenzie
22 MAZAMAS
"Mt. Hood has amazing views and it is fun to hike around it with a great group of people, eat huckleberries along the way and enjoy some great cooking at the Mazama lodge each night! I highly recommend the Mazamas RTM weekend!" -Kirsten
"Do you love hiking? Are you looking for an adventure, and want to share it with like-minded people? If the answer is “Yes,� then RTM is for you! The 42-mile Timberline Trail around Mt. Hood is incredibly serene and captivating. Winding through rock fields, glaciers, waterfalls, and alpine meadows, the RTM hike is a quintessential PNW experience that you do not want to miss out on. I completed RTM in 2018, and it was an experience I will never forget. So, when are YOU going to sign up?" -Melody
MAZAMA LIBRARY
Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country. Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.
Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at mazamas.org/library
BOOK REVIEW RAMBLE ON: A HISTORY OF HIKING BY JEFFREY J. DORAN Reviewer: Brian Goldman
A
recent addition to the Mazama Library is Ramble On–A History of Hiking, by Jeffrey J. Doran. The book is a very detailed, wideranging overview of hiking (also known as rambling, tramping, walking, hillwalking, backpacking or trekking). The book shows how hiking evolved from an upper-class European sport of alpinism to an activity that enriches millions around the world. Ramble On shares with readers the biographies of the influential hikers from the 19th century, stories of the first trails built for recreation, the formation of the first hiking clubs (including the Mazamas) and the evolution of hiking equipment. Who recorded the oldest hike for pleasure? In the second century, the Roman Emperor Hadrian climbed Mt. Etna on the island of Sicily in order to look at the sunrise. It would be another 1200 years before there was another recorded hike for pleasure. Petrarch, a scholar and poet who ushered in the Italian Renaissance, climbed Mt. Ventoux in southern France, "to see its conspicuous height..." However, prior to the 15th century, many regarded mountains with fear and danger, "filled with wild beasts and wild men." When did hiking really take off ? Some say it was the publication of A Guide to the Lakes, by Thomas West, which detailed the landscape of the Lake District in northwestern England. This guide inspired the Romantic poet William Wordsworth, whose poetry in turn inspired American authors Ralph Waldo Emerson, Henry David Thoreau and John Muir. By the end of the 19th century, a Sunday stroll through the park became a respectable activity in Europe and America. In addition, there was a backlash to the Industrial Revolution, in which the Romantics wrote of their concern that people were sacrificing their souls as a result of industrialization. They sensed that people were getting disconnected from the beauty of nature and wanted to breathe
24 MAZAMAS
clean air and get away from dirty, overcrowded cities. We cannot thank John Muir enough for his advocacy for the preservation of wilderness. Ramble On details his travels and his promotion of the Grand Canyon, Yosemite and Mt. Rainier as national parks. Muir was able to persuade Theodore Roosevelt during a camping trip to set aside 230 million acres as public lands. Later, with the labor movement improving the lives of Americans with fewer work hours, higher wages, paid holidays and vacation time, the middle class was now able to spend time hiking in our national park system–visits which skyrocketed after WWII. The reasons for hiking continued to evolve. At first, many wanted to escape dirty, overcrowded cities. Others began seeking spiritual renewal. Still others suffered from fatigue, anxiety, depression, headaches and high blood pressure–all from the stress of urbanization and competitive business. Others thought hiking would be good for keeping people fit for military service. Roosevelt himself said Americans needed to keep fit for war at all times in order to defend America's interest around the world. Later, clubs were formed so people could socialize. War veterans sought the peace of the wilderness to decrease symptoms of posttraumatic stress disorder (PTSD). Nowadays, the author claims people want to disconnect from the digital world while hiking. The author states that the reason hiking clubs, such as the Mazamas, began to form was threefold: so groups could meet and socialize; build trails; and advocate for the creation and preservation of parks, mountains and forests. However, nowadays, research indicates that more are hiking for solitude, reflection and to escape job pressures and modernity. One paragraph of Ramble On is devoted to the Mazamas. On June 12, 1894 organizers published an advertisement in the Oregonian announcing a "typical mountain banquet." More than 300 showed up at two designated spots along Mt. Hood, including Cooper Spur. Two days later, 193 climbers reached the summit and 105 became charter members of the Mazamas. (I wonder what food they ate at the banquet?) At the summit three homing pigeons were released and announced that the club had been established. There are quite a few "did you know" facts in this book: ▶▶ The oldest continuously used trail in North America is the Crawford Path to the summit of Mt. Washington beginning in 1819. ▶▶ The US Forest Service manages 154 national forest units comprising 193 million acres. The bulk of the hiking trails were built before national forests were established–these trails were blazed by wildlife, Native Americans, hunters, trappers, prospectors, ranchers and loggers. Scenery was not a concern. ▶▶ The Eagle Creek Trail on the Columbia River was one of the first trails built specifically for recreation in a national forest. ▶▶ During the Great Depression, President Franklin Roosevelt's Civilian Conservation Corps constructed more than 28,000 miles of foot trails. On and on the book details the trails constructed in Yellowstone, Yosemite, Mount Rainier, Glacier, Acadia, Great Smoky Mountains, complete with vintage photographs. Several chapters are devoted to the evolution of hiking gear and apparel, including the cumbersome skirts women wore that made their hiking difficult and unsafe. Abercrombie and Fitch became the preeminent outdoor goods retailer in America, outfitting
famous explorers such as Teddy Roosevelt, Ernest Shackleton, Richard Byrd, Charles Lindbergh and Amelia Earhart. After Eddie Bauer nearly died pulling 100 pounds of steelhead salmon up an embankment in frozen undergarments, he created the first goose down jackets, pants and sleeping bags in North America, outfitting the first American K2 expedition in 1953 and the first American Mt. Everest expedition in 1963. The creation of Gore-Tex, Polartec, polypropylene, Capiline are all explored. Additional chapters detail the history of hiking boots and backpacks–all with interesting photos and advertisements. The author spends the last chapter writing about the future of hiking, including what can be done to prevent overcrowding, vandalism, litter, switchback cutting, trail erosion, loud music, parking, drones and dogs. Controlling demand with reservation systems and shuttles may be necessary. Volunteerism and corporate sponsorship may be needed. Interesting solutions are explored regarding thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail, including the concept of flip-flopping, which means starting to hike the Trail somewhere in the middle, hiking to the end and then going back to the middle position and continuing in the opposite direction to avoid over-crowding. The increase in Search & Rescues, GPS, and the abusive use of Personal Locator Beacons (PLB) are also discussed. Overall, this book is a very comprehensive, all-encompassing overview for anyone interested in the history of hiking.
SAYING GOODBYE JESS ROSKELLEY, JULY 13, 1982–APRIL 17, 2019
Mountaineer Jess Roskelly died on April 17, 2019, while climbing Howse Peak in British Columbia. Jess is the son of Honorary Mazama John Roskelly and was a featured athlete at the 2017 Portland Alpine Fest. Jess began climbing as a guide on Mt. Rainier and by the age of 20 he’d reached the summit 35 times. In 2003, Jess and his father climbed Mt. Everest together. He was 20 years old and the youngest person to climb the world’s highest peak. He fully embraced climbing at the age of 25 and quickly became a world-class alpinist. After moving to Alaska, Jess racked up a number of new routes and first ascents in the Alaska Range. In 2017 Jess made the first ascent fo the south ridge of Alaska’s Mt. Huntington. Jess is credited with having made twenty-seven ascents on three continents. He is survived by his wife, Allison Roskelley, his sister Jordan Roskelley, and his father.
Emerge Gorgeous–Forests Born in Fire by Ralph Bloemers
W
e recently have had big, intense wildfires in the west and one right here in our backyard. The Eagle Creek fire burned through 50,000 acres of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area—and some news reports told us the forest was destroyed. Recent fires in California have resulted in the loss of many homes and lives, increasing our need to find solutions that will keep our communities safe.
Friday, May 17, 7–8:30 p.m. Mazama Mountaineering Center
Fire is powerful. Fire is elemental. Fire can and does destroy homes. Our safety is paramount. We may have friends or family who have been evacuated and lost homes. We may know someone who fights fire in intense conditions. We all have been impacted by smoke. We all want to find solutions. The good news is that nature and our elders have a lot of wisdom to share. We just need to listen and be willing to re-imagine our relationship to fire. Join us for this special multi-media presentation about fire. Take to the air, the ground and to the top of the mountain for a visual journey into the past and see how the amazing forests of the Gorge, Mt. Hood and throughout the West have burned and emerged gorgeous. This engaging multimedia presentation will feature historic photography from fires that burned near ZigZag Mountain, Government Camp and Mirror Lake. These older fires and recent burns along Vista Ridge, Tilly Jane Trail and Gnarl Ridge are teaming with new life and amazing views. Visit these burned forests in bloom, as they team with fields of wildflowers, new homes for wildlife and provide amazing vistas. Special Features: ■■ Never-before-seen time-lapse from a high severity forest fire in the Gorge ■■ Pre-Release Screening of film about recent fires near Paradise ■■ Pre-Production Sizzle Real for Elemental, a Feature film about fire ■■ Reflections on Smokey Bear and Bambi with Live Fire Opinion Surveys
26 MAZAMAS
Clockwise, from top left: Thomas Fire, Southern Oregon 2018, Photo: Trip Jennings Video. Trail work on Angel's Rest, Oregon. Photo: Ralph Bloemers. Aerial Shot of the Columbia River Gorge, Oregon. Photo: Crag Law Center & Trip Jennings Video. Goshawks, Rim Fire, Northern Sierras in California. Photo: Trip Jennings Video
e m o c l e W
New Members!
NEW MEMBERS: 22 Emily Carpenter—Mt. St Helens Catherine Ciarlo—Longs Peak, CO Aaron Elman—Mt. Hood Nina Ferrari—South Sister Celia Flaim—Mt. Adams Sue Galatz—Mt. Hood Katherine Griffith—Mt. Whitney Leslie Hughes—Mt. Hood Priyanka Kedalagudde— Mt. St Helens Shiva Kiran—Mt. St Helens Andy Klumpp—Mt. Adams
David Knapp—South Sister Honey Lacasandile—Mt. Baker Jacob Lawlor—Mt. St Helens Bartholomew Martin—Mt. St Helens Hawley Martin—Mt. Adams Kevin Mehlbrech—Mt. St Helens Katie Roach—South Sister Becky Sias—South Sister Kevin Vandemore—Mt. Rainier Robin Wendlandt—South Sister Mary Wiedl—Mt. Hood
REINSTATEMENTS: 6
Kalin E. Karich (2015), Melissa McMurphy (2016), John P. Merrill (2014), Crystal L Mills (1969), Gerson R. Rodriguez (2014), and Jeffrey W Wessel (2007)
DECEASED: -2 George Brown (1979) and Mark Hardy (1981)
Total Membership as of March 31: 3,375 (2019), 3,378 (2018)
Speaker: Ralph Bloemers. For nearly two years Ralph has advised community-based conservation groups, recreation clubs and citizen throughout the Pacific Northwest on the conservation of our forests, including sensitive burned landscapes. He has spent countless hours in our forests with firefighters, expert scientists and ecologists. He has led educational forums in communities directly affected by wildfires and volunteered to rebuild trails in fire burned areas. Featuring the work of National Geographic Producer Trip Jennings. Trip founded Balance Media and has worked with National Geographic for over a decade. Nat Geo named Trip Adventurer of the Year after an expedition in Papua New Guinea. His films have won dozens of awards around the world and aired on major networks on every continent. Trip focuses on issues that are at a tipping point. He works to educate the public, front line communities and decision makers so they can make informed decisions about issues that affect their lives.
MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Our members are part of a 125-year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation. Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. ▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.
MAY 2019 27
CLASSICS For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.
CONTACTING THE CLASSICS If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or flobell17@comcast.net, Executive Council liaison Steve Couche at 503-998-0185 or stephencouche@ mazamas.org, or classics@mazamas.org.
VOLUNTEERS NEEDED We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. Positions we need to fill are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater and help or backup for same. You don't have to commit to three years but, of course, it would be so nice if you could. Additionally, we are looking at working with a volunteer to put more content in our Bulletin column on a quarterly basis. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org and state how you can help.
LEADING EVENTS IN JUNE Those wanting to lead events need to reply to classics@ mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.
CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Our next meeting is Monday, May 20 at the MMC at 11:15 a.m. (A week early due to May 27 holiday). Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month, 11 a.m.–12:30 p.m. at the MMC, in the library. Check the bulletin or the website.
MAZAMA LODGE Lodge Musings & Happenings by Charles Barker, Mazama Lodge Manager I’m currently working on a history project that includes some of the highlights of Mazama Lodge from 1969 to 2019. This is part of Volume 2 of We Climb High. Volume 1 was a history of the first 75 years of Mazamas 1894–1969. Before looking at the past 50 years I was curious to look at the previous 75 years and how the lodge shaped the history of the Mazamas. Three things stood out about the first 75 years of the Mazamas in contrast to the more recent 50 years. First, the Mazamas only had a lodge for 46 of the first 75 years. Second, during those 46 years the Mazamas had a lodge they built three lodges. The first being near the town of Rhododendron from 1923–1931, the second lodge built on the site of the current lodge from 1931–1958 and our current lodge dedicated in 1960 (19 months after the old lodge burned down). And third, the 1947 Mazama Annual details some large capital projects; they included building a swimming hole at Still Creek about 1/2 a mile away, and using this in the winter for ice skating, and the introduction of ski hill lights for night skiing. It was clear to me that the projects the Mazamas worked on in the early 1900s did not require environmental studies or permits, just lots of volunteers. Fast forward to May of 2019, we thankfully had a very solid winter and will likely see the snow sticking around through Memorial Weekend this year. The first weekend of May only has a few guests staying at the lodge and Memorial Weekend is also looking quiet so far. The Timberline Spring Pass is good through Memorial Weekend. We are planning to have our work party on Saturday, June 15. Will and Jenn will be serving a delicious lunch for all our volunteers
CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.
TUE. MAY 14: CRYSTAL SPRINGS RHODODENDRON GARDEN AND REED CANYON Stroll the garden through many paths enjoying the wildlife and plants. After appreciating the garden, cross 28th Ave and follow a trail up the canyon to the springs. On the way back we can stop at the Reed College cafeteria for lunch. Dress for spring weather, bring water and snacks for the stroll and money for lunch. Garden admission is free on Monday and Tuesdays and $4 on other days. Sign the attendance/release form, no hike fees for Classic Mazamas, others please donate $2. Leader: Buzz Lindahl, erlindahl@gmail.com, 503-781-8956. Dylan Hoffman and Ashley Reed serve ice cream to a full lodge of BCEP students.
Should We Allow Dogs in the Backcountry? by Don McCoy
D
ogs are not welcome in National Parks. They are not allowed on trails, even on a leash. Metro does not allow dogs in Regional Parks and Natural Areas. Silver Falls does not allow dogs on certain trails. The Mazamas do not allow dogs on their hikes unless they specifically say “Dog Friendly.” What are the major concerns about dogs on trails and in parks? ▶▶ They chase and scare wildlife. ▶▶ There is the risk of dog bites to humans and other dogs. ▶▶ Dog feces will contaminate water supplies. One of the reasons we hike is that we want to commune with nature. Part of that is observing wildlife. Sightings of birds, deer, and elk are special events. I can still remember the flying squirrel I saw that fell out of a tree while I was hiking up Silver Star. Flocks of tourists visit Yellowstone every year to view the bears, elk, buffalo, deer, coyotes, and wolves. We look for pica in the Gorge. We visit Jewel Meadows to look at the elk. We hike to special pools to see the migrating salmon. Uncontrolled dogs can chase wildlife and disturb salmon by jumping in rivers. Dog owners can mitigate this by keeping them on a leash. Most dog bites happen in the city. However, the fear by some people of dogs is real. Most dogs on trails are well behaved. However, dog owners with poorly controlled dogs make the rest of us look bad. It has been estimated that 20 percent of bacterial contamination in some waterways is due to dog feces. Most of us are now trained to pick up the poop with our plastic bags. However, then we are supposed to put it in the garbage rather than the compost pile. Where does it go from there? And then there are the biodegradable bags. Do we just throw it in the bushes? And what about those plastic bags along the side of the trail that someone has been nice enough to collect, but just leaves them there?
I am a veterinarian and I have a dog. When I was training to become a Mazama (climb a mountain), I went hiking by myself and took my dog. When there were crowds, she was on a leash. When there was no one around, I sometimes let her run loose. When I am hiking in Forest Park, she is always on a leash. When I am hiking on the street, she is always on a leash. If I want to take her on trails in the Gorge, I just don’t hike with the Mazamas. If we all follow the “Golden Rule of Trail Etiquette,” then we should all be using “Common Sense and Courtesy.” (from Best Hikes with Dogs in Western Washington by Don Nelson) They recommend: ▶▶ Dogs be on a leash or at least voice command. ▶▶ Dog owners yield right of way to other hikers. ▶▶ Dog owners move way off the trail when they encounter horses. ▶▶ Dog owners yield the right of way to mountain bikes. ▶▶ Dogs stay on the trail. So, train your dog, keep it on a leash and pick up the poop. Don leads Dog Friendly Hikes once a month for the Mazamas and also for Friends of the Gorge. oregonmetro.gov/parks/dogs-hunting-policies | usatoday30. usatoday.com/news/science/2002-06-07-dog-usat.htm
MAY 2019 29
Then & Now: A selection of historic and contemporary images For more than 125 years the Mazama have explored the Pacific Northwest. From the river valleys to the mountain peaks, Mazamas have covered a lot of ground, many with camera in hand. The Mazama Library and Historical Collections holds thousands of images from all over the Pacific Northwest. Mazama photographers Ralph Daub and Regis Krug have joined with Mazama Library & Historical Collecctions Manager Mathew Brock to recreate some of our historical photos. Would you like to get involved? If so, visit mazamas.org/125anniversary/then-now/ to see a selection of images we are hoping to replicate. Don’t see anything there that matches your travel plans? Email mathew@mazamas.org to discuss possible options.
LODGE NIGHT In 1960 Mazama Ed Dolan captured the newly completed Mazama Lodge. Fifty-nine years later Mazama Ralph Daub returned and photographed the Lodge in 2019.
SMITH ROCK STATE PARK This photograph of Smith Rock, taken by Mazama Frank Meeker in 1958, shows the classic down river view of the Christian Brother, Asterisk Pass, and Smith Rock Group areas. The lack of scarring on the hillsides below the formations shows that it was long before Smith Rock became popular with hikers and especially climbers. Mazama Ralph Daub recreated Meeker's photograph almost perfectly in the fall of 2018.
30 MAZAMAS
CLOUD CAP 1895 & 2014 The image on the left is from the Mary Watts Collection and shows Cloud Cap Inn as it looked in the late 1890s. One of the soon-to-beMazamas parties departed from Cloud Cap Inn on July 19, 1894, for their climb to the summit of Mount Hood. Mazama hike leader Regis captured the Inn as it looked 120 years later in 2014.
SMITH ROCK STATE PARK Dave Hitchcock's photograph of Smith Rock from 1954, showing a wider angle view, paired with Ralph Daub’s image from 2018.
MT. HOOD The image of the North Face of Mt. Hood also comes from the Mary Watts Collection, ca the late 1890s. In it, a climbing party prepares to depart for the summit. Regis Krug provided the 2009 image of Hood’s north face from his photograph collection.
MAY 2019 31
ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart. COME JOIN AYM FOR MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND! Join us in exploring one of the 7 wonders of Oregon at the Painted Hills. The trip will include a variety of hikes and activities in and around the John Day Fossil Beds and more of Eastern Oregon. Wildflowers in this area are known to be at their peak during this time of year, including some that grow nowhere else in the world. Registration will open soon. New AYM hike leader, Heather Polonsky, led a group of hikers and their pups to Hardy Ridge this month!
WANT TO BE FEATURED ON THE AYM INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT? TAG @AYMPDX IN YOUR PHOTOS OF MAZAMA ADVENTURES!
Check the website at mazamas.org/AYM and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted.
NEW LEADER SPOTLIGHT
STEPHANIE NELSON ▶▶ Hometown? Lacey, WA
▶▶ Years with the Mazamas? 2 ▶▶ What trips are you most excited to lead for AYM? I want to try and organize some winter snowshoeing adventures this winter. ▶▶ What is one thing that you always bring on a hike that is not one of the 10 essentials? The cellphone is clearly the 11th essential. ▶▶ When you were a kid, what did you want to be when you grew up and why? I wanted to be an Astronaut because space is cool. ▶▶ What is one surprising thing about yourself that people don’t usually know about you? I’m the shortest of my siblings. ▶▶ People should sign up for a trip with you if.... You value the journey over the destination.
32 MAZAMAS
MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶Pub Night: Date TBD, check Meetup for details! ▶▶Climb Night: May 1 at 6 p.m., Planet Granite.
Smith Rock Climbers’ Ranch Update by Jeff Hawkins, Mazama Foundation member
I
n 2013 Mazama member John Creager decided to sell his property across the parking lot from Smith Rock State Park. The perfectly located spot (across from the yurt where many of us have stayed) sparked interest in staff and members seeking to have a Mazama presence at Smith. Could we build a climbers’ ranch akin to the American Alpine Club's Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch? The Mazamas Foundation purchased an option on John’s property while scoping out the concept of a ranch and assessing support within the membership. In 2017 the Mazamas Foundation purchased the property and retained the professional services of members David Byrne and Teresa Bright to develop the property. After two years of planning, working through zoning issues and public meetings, we obtained approval for a campground and bed & breakfast (aka: climbers' ranch). The neighbors opposed this climbers' ranch and appealed the planning department’s decision to the Deschutes County Board of Commissioners. The commissioners ruled in favor of the climbers' ranch concept but against the campground. Unfortunately, without the campground, the climbers' ranch does not fit the original vision of the project, and as such, the Mazamas have decided not to pursue the climbers' ranch further. After a dedicated effort on the part of many members, and after taking a second look for any other possible use scenario, we deeply regret that this prospecting project has come to an end. We see no way to make this property fulfill the vision of a climbers’ ranch and the Mazamas Foundation has decided to sell the property. There are many people to thank and those of you involved should have heard from us already. We are deeply grateful for your contributions and your efforts to see the project come to
fruition. The Mazamas remain committed to this vision, but at this point do not see an opportunity to fulfill it. The Mazamas Foundation board of directors is currently obtaining an appraisal after which we will list the property in the MLS (Multiple Listing Service) and will accept offers from interested members and the public. Please contact TerryDonahe@mazamasfoundation.org and JeffHawkins@ mazamasfoundation.org if you are interested in the property. MAY 2019 33
MAZAMA OUTINGS
Apply online at mazamas.org/outings
You can now apply for Mazama Outings on our website. Go to mazamas.org/outings to view all outings. When you apply, you will be prompted to complete your profile, and you’ll enter credit card information. If accepted, your credit card will be charged for the trip deposit, and you will then be sent an invoice for the remainder of the outing cost. This invoice can be paid by credit card or check. HIKING IN THE SAWTOOTHS AND WHITE CLOUDS: JULY 8–15 Just the names Sawtooth and White Clouds should be enough to entice any serious hiker. So join us for six “B” and “C” level hikes and enjoy spectacular mountain lakes, wildflowers, and the possibility of black bear, moose or mountain goats. Hikers should be experienced and comfortable at altitudes approaching 10,000 ft. Please include relevant hiking experience and activity history in your website profile for leaders to review. We will spend seven nights in fully furnished cabins located along the Salmon River approximately 20 miles east of Stanley, Idaho. Each cabin, which will be shared by only two people, includes a refrigerator, microwave, coffee maker, Dish TV and WiFi; some also include a stove. Outing costs for Mazama members range from $768 to $722 for a group of 8 minimum to 12 maximum participants (including leaders); non-member costs range from $838 to $792. Participants are responsible for their own travel and food. Full payment for those accepted is due May 15, 2019. Leaders: Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail. com and Sherry Bourdin sbourdin@reig.com.
SPANISH PYRENEES GR11 PART I (WEST): JULY 24–AUGUST 7 WASHINGTON OLYMPICS—ENCHANTED VALLEY BACKPACK: JUNE 20–26 We spend 6 days, 5 nights on trails in the beautiful and unique Olympic Forest, with optional side trip without backpacks up to view Home Sweet Home Meadows. We will continue past Lake LaCrosse, one of the best areas in the park to view wildlife and is surrounded by beautiful meadows and mountain views. This trip will include possible river fords and crossing of snow in high mountain basins. Exact conditions will be determined closer to the trip. This is a strenuous backpack. Please make sure that you have experience on previous strenuous backpacks and are in shape for the distance and elevation gain. Lighter packs are advised. Pace will be slow to moderate. The area has numerous black bears, so bear canisters are required. A few of the camps may have bear proof storage. This area can be very wet, so participants must be prepared for wet conditions. This trip will include possible river fords and crossing of snow in high mountain basins. Exact conditions will be determined closer to the trip. Changes of itinerary are possible due to conditions of the trails. Please contact leader Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@gmail.com, 971832-2556 if you have any questions. Apply online—mazamas.org/outings
34 MAZAMAS
The Pyrenees are an amazing mountain system that acts as the natural border between Spain and France. GR11 (Grand Route or Gran Recorrido) is a trail of 522 miles that takes you from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean sea across these beautiful mountains. Over 12 days, we will hike around 90 miles of the first part of the GR11, starting in Puerto de Urkiaga and finishing in Canfranc. We will be sleeping in small villages, hostels, campground bungalows, and mountain refuges. We will enjoy the different landscapes that the Pyrenees offer from the lowest altitudes to the highest ones, including tons of amazing views (such as the Alanos Zuriza) and lots of mountain passes. Outing costs of $1082 to $1,315 for a group of 10 or 8. Costs include lodging, outing fees, and two group meals. Trip overview meeting will be scheduled in May or June. Deposit of $200 will be charged upon acceptance. You will be sent an invoice for the remainder of the outing cost.
CLIMBING HIGH PEAKS IN THE WALLOWAS: AUGUST 16–25 Climb 7 to 10 of the 9,000 ft.+ mountains in northeast Oregon’s Wallowas, including Eagle Cap, Sacajawea Peak, and Oregon’s Matterhorn. We’ll start our five-day backpack with an assist from the Wallowa Lake Tramway, which will whisk us up 3,500 ft. to 8,000 ft. We will climb four mountains together, and then we will split into two teams when we approach the lake basin where group size is limited to six. When the backpack is over, we’ll offer a day hike and a day climb. All the climbing routes are rated A. Pre-requisites: Participants will need to be in good physical condition and have experience on at least one 50 mile (or greater) trek. Participants must also submit a résumé of successful climbs, including those that involved pack-ins to base camp. We will be traveling light and steady, up to 16 miles per day with daily elevation gains reaching as high as 4,000’ and most time spent at 7,000 ft. to 10,000 ft. of elevation. The terrain will be challenging with possible scree and brush in the off-trail portion, plus long daytime stretches without access to water. The outing cost ranges from $204 to $314 for a group of 10 minimum to 12 maximum participants (including leaders) and covers four nights car-camping at Wallowa Lake State Park and an uphill ride on the Wallowa Lake Tramway. Travel to/from the Wallowas will be by carpool, which is not included in the cost. A deposit of $100 for members or $200 for nonmembers will be required upon acceptance. This outing is led by Mazama climb leaders Bill Stein and Eugene Lewins. Both have decades of climbing experience, but these mountain climbs will be exploratory for them. Contact Bill Stein (billstein.rpcv@gmail.com) if you would like additional information, or apply online. Make sure to include your successful backpacks and climbs in your online bio.
TREK AROUND GLACIER PEAK (WA): AUGUST 18–24 Join us as we hike around majestic Glacier Peak in Washington state. This 82.7 mile and 22,500 ft. net elevation gain trek circumnavigates Glacier Peak, largely on maintained trails. About half the distance will be on the Pacific Crest Trail and there will be a 5 mile off-trail/use-trail section during the hike. Glacier Peak Wilderness is a remote and rugged landscape with numerous passes and stream crossings along the way. The outing cost ranges from $318 to $271 for a group of 6 minimum to 8 maximum participants (including leaders) and covers all trail fees and lodging costs. We will be carpooling to the trailhead and staying in a hotel the night before and after the trek. A $100 deposit plus the Outing Fee ($10/day for members; $20/day for nonmembers) will be required upon acceptance. Contact outing leader Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) for more information. MAY 2019 35
TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. Hike leaders, to schedule a hike next month, go to: mazamas.org, login, and schedule. UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED, ALL HIKES LISTED BELOW ARE AVAILABLE FOR SIGNUP ON OUR WEBSITE! HEAD ON OVER TO MAZAMAS.ORG/HIKING TO GET MORE DETAILS. FIND THE HIKE YOU WANT TO GO ON, CLICK ON THE LINK, AND FOLLOW THE SIGNUP PROMPTS. HK B1.5 May 1 Gales Creek— Storey Burn Loop Tony Spiering aespiering@gmail.com Meet Target/185th at 8 a.m. Mileage: 8 Elevation Gain: 1,400 ft. HK B1.5 May 1 Oregon City Urban Hike– Camassia Natural Area/Canemah Bluff Park Jim Everett jim.everett@comcast. net Camas Lily bloom time! Mix of paths, trails and streets including McLoughlin Promenade to visit two natural areas. 9.5 miles, 800 ft elevation. Meet 9am at Jon Storm Park, 1801 Clackamette Drive, Oregon City (river dock parking under I-205-bridge just South of Clackamette Park). We will stop 9:15 a.m. at Oregon City Transit Center (1035 Main St) to join any TriMet riders (Bus routes 32, 33, 34, 35, 79, 99, & 154 stop here). HK A2 May 3 Duncan Creek Rex Breunsbach rbreunsbach@gmail.com Nice loop hike on Washington side of Gorge. 6 miles, 1,100 feet, drive 90 miles. Meet: MMC Parking Lot, 8 a.m. HK B1.5 May 4 Cape Horn–Upper Trail Hike Susan Koch skoch55@gmail.com We do the upper portion of the Cape Horn Trail from the parking lot to the Russell Overlook and back. The lower portion of the loop is closed this time of year due to peregrine falcon nesting so the distance will be about 4 miles round trip. This is a great hike for wildflowers. The trail can be muddy so hiking poles are recommended. Meet: Gateway Park & Ride, 8 a.m.
Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 ft. elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 ft. elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ ft. elevation gain. Class D: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contacting leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.
36 MAZAMAS
HK C2.5 May 5 Table Mountain– the long way Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@ gmail.com This is a very strenuous hike! No one is welcome who can't handle up, down, up, down over a very long day of fast hiking. We will start from the Bonneville trailhead, the nearest open trailhead to Table Mountain, which means we have to traverse a landslide zone before approaching the boulders of Heartbreak Ridge. In your Mazamas profile, please name the hikes you've done so far in 2019, plus your conditioning and typical hiking speed. The new stats on this hike are 16 miles and 3,800 ft. of ascent. Gateway at 6 a.m. Must signup online.
HK B2 May 10 Cottonwood Canyon Lost Corral Eric Hall erichall@q.com This hike traces a stretch of the John Day River passing through Cottonwood Canyon State Park. We will hike out and back along a former ranch road, through sagebrush flats, to an old cattle corral nestled beneath columnar basalt cliffs. 10 Miles. 100 ft. elevation. 250 driving miles. Exploratory. Meet: MMC Parking Lot, 7:30 a.m.
HK B2 May 8 Henline Mountain Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com Climb lots of switchbacks to an old lookout tower site atop a rocky ridge. Enjoy views of Mt. Jefferson, Battle Ax, and Nasty Rock. We will lunch at the lookout site before climbing further to the summit. 5,6 miles with 2,200 ft. gain to the lookout site; 7.8 miles with 2,700 ft. to the summit. Meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 7:30 a.m.
HK B1.5 May 12 Dalles Mountain Bob Breivogel breivog@teleport.com Hike up the unpaved road through wildflower meadows from the old ranch to the top of Stacker Butte. Great views of the Columbia river, Mt. Hood, and Mt Adams. Hopefully the Balsam root and Lupine will be at their prime, along with many others. Relaxed pace with time for photos and taking in the scenery. We will have lunch on the top of the Butte. We will meet at Gateway and carpool to Columbia Hills State Park across the river from The Dalles. About 8 miles round trip with 2,000 feet gain. You will need a Washington Discovery pass (can be bought at the trailhead). Meet: Gateway Park & Ride, 8:30 a.m.
HK B2 May 10 Pup Creek Falls from Indian Henry Rex L Breunsbach rbreunsbach@gmail.com 8.5 miles 1,300 gain. Meet at MMC Parking Lot, at 8 a.m.
Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. Hike fees/Snowshoe/Nordic Costs: $2 for members, $4 nonmembers; Backpack Costs: Vary depending on trip. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry
HK A2 May 11 Moulton Falls James Selby selbyjb@comcast.net We start at Lucia Falls for a short hike, then go on to Moulton Falls for a 5.5 mile hike. Mileage: 6 Elevation Gain: 200 ft.
and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage.–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver. 99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes, and
carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
HK A1.5 May 13 Spring Upper Salmon River Hike David Christopher david.r.christopher@gmail.com We will have lunch at and return from the rock outcrop overlooking the Salmon River valley & waterfall. I will have a stove, so bring your cup, extra water and coffee, tea or soup for a warm lunch drink. I recommend bringing traction spikes. If it is heavy rain, the hike will be cancelled, so please check your email or send me an email which will be answered before 8 a.m. the hike day. Our pace is steady and gentle. My whole point in being out is to share the experience with others and enjoy the sounds and sights that nature provides. Two books you might want to read before hiking on this beautiful trail: The Hidden Life of Trees–Peter Wohlleben, and The Tree–John Fowles. 7.2 miles. 950 ft. of elevation gain. Meet at the Upper Salmon River trailhead parking at 9:15 a.m. and depart at 9:30 a.m. HK A1.5 May 14 Steamboat Landing to Steigerwald Wildlife Refuge Dog Hike Don McCoy donald1020@aol.com We will meet at Steamboat Landing in Washougal at 9 a.m. and hike along the dike paralleling the Columbia River. This trail has spectacular views of Mt. Hood. This hike goes through Captain William Clark Park which does have access to the Columbia River. The hike continues along the dike to Steigerwald Wildlife Refuge and ends at a total of 3.1 miles. Dogs are not allowed in Steigerwald, but are allowed on the dike. We will return the way we came, getting a different view on the way back. Leashed well-behaved dogs are welcome, but you don't need a dog to attend. HK A2 May 15 3-Corner Rock Via PCT Rex Breunsbach rbreunsbach@gmail.com This hike starts on the PCT north of Table Mountain and ends at 3-Corner Rock. Spectacular views of the western gorge and Mt Hood. 8.4 miles, 1800 ft. Drive 100 miles. Meet MMC. HK C2.5 May 17 Dogspurger Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com Dog Mountain followed by Augspurger Mountain, on a day when you don't have to jockey for permits or parking. This is a very strenuous hike, and the Augspurger portion is exploratory for your leader, who last hiked it 20 years ago. In your Mazamas profile, please list all strenuous hikes you've done in 2019, plus what you do for conditioning and your typical hiking speed. Expect wildflowers at or near their peak. Stats: 14 miles and 5,500 ft. of ascent. Meet at Gateway at 5 a.m.
HK A1.5 May 18 Little North Santiam/ Henline Falls Hike William O'Brien wobobr123@yahoo.com Nice Spring hike, 9 miles and 900 ft. elev gain, following the North Santiam river upstream and part two hiking 2 miles to Henline Falls passing Silver King Mine on the way. Dress for the weather warm clothing following the river. Mileage: 9.4 Elevation Gain: 1,800 ft. Meet: Tualatin Park & Ride, 8 a.m. HK B2 May 18 Devil's Rest Kate Sinnitt Evans kateevans97@gmail.com Enjoy the views and waterfalls on this outstanding Gorge hike. Poles are suggested. Mileage: 8.4 Elevation Gain: 2,600 ft. Meet: Gateway Park & Ride, 8 a.m. HK C2.5 May 19 Huckleberry Mountain with Rhododendrons Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com Take the Boulder Ridge trail from Wildwood. We'll start in a lovely wetland, then we'll ascend amid blooming rhododendrons. There aren't many view spots on this hike, but we'll take our breaks wherever we find them. And if the sky is clear, we'll have a great view of Mount Hood from Huckleberry Mountain. 10.6 miles, 3,100 ft. Meet at Clackamas Towne Center Max Park & Ride Garage at 6:30 a.m. Must signup online. HK B2 May 22 Sedum Ridge Mowich Butte Loop Rex Breunsbach rbreunsbach@gmail. com Meet at the MMC at 8 a.m. Mileage: 12.4 Elevation Gain: 3535 ft. HK B2 May 24 Augspurger Mountain Rex L Breunsbach rbreunsbach@gmail.com This hike is an out-and-back (and a little bit of up-and-down) starting at the Dog Mountain trailhead It includes wonderful views from Augspurger 13.4 Miles, 4,200 feet, Drive 100. Meet at the MMC at 8 a.m. HK A2 May 25 Dry Creek Falls James E Selby selbyjb@comcast.net This will be the loop trail so can be muddy. Enjoy ice cream near the end of the hike. 4.4 miles, 725 ft. elevation gain. Meet: Gateway Park & Ride, 8 a.m. HK 1.5 May 27 Elk Mountain Loop Sherry Bourdin sbourdin@reig.com Need to be in good shape to hike this one, moderate speed but steep in places. Mileage: 7.5 Elevation Gain: 2,400 ft. Meet Target/185th at 7:30 a.m. HK A1.5 May 28 Tom, Dick & Harry Hike David Christopher david.r.christopher@ gmail.com Arrive at the new parking area at the Ski Bowl turnoff by 9:15 a.m. and depart Mirror Lake Trailhead at 9:30 a.m. for a casual hike up to Tom, Dick & Harry mountain viewpoint. Views from the top include Mt. Hood, Three Sisters and Mt. Jefferson among others. Hike is 5.8 miles with an elevation gain of 1710 ft. I will have my stove, so you can bring extra water, a cup and coffee, tea or soup to drink with lunch.
Our pace is steady and gentle. My whole point in being out is to share the experience with others and enjoy the sounds and sights that nature provides. Meet at the Mirror Lake Trailhead at 9:15 a.m. HK C2 May 29 Table Mountain from the North Rex Breunsbach rbreunsbach@ gmail.com Great way to summit Table Mountain. Some light scrambling and mild bushwhacking required. 14 Miles, 2,800 ft., Drive 100 Miles. Meet MMC 8 a.m. HK C2 May 29 Salmon Butte Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com Hike through old growth forest then climb the many switchbacks to a track just below the summit of Salmon Butte from where we view Mounts Hood, Adams, and Jefferson. Mileage: 11.7 Elevation Gain: 3,100 ft. Meet: Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC), 8 a.m. HK C2.5 June 1 Hardy-Hamilton Loop Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com Up, down, up, down loop, moving fast. Ascend to Phlox Point, the highest point in Beacon Rock State Park, then descend to a bridge over Hardy Creek, climb to the Saddle and Hamilton Mountain, then return via the wide Equestrian Trail. Mileage: 11.5 Elevation Gain: 3,100 ft. Meet: Gateway Park & Ride, 6:30 a.m. HK B2 June 8 AYM: Hamilton Mountain Loop Ashley Wood ashryanwood@gmail.com This challenging 7.6 mile, 2,100 ft. elevation loop trail has a lot going for it: waterfalls, cliffs, deep forests and stunning views of the Gorge. Meet at MMC at 7:50 a.m. to arrange carpools, and be ready to depart promptly at 8 a.m.
READY TO SIGNUP ONLINE? Go to mazamas.org/gettingstarted to learn how to create your account. It’s simple, and should take no more than 5 minutes to get up and running. Please review the information at mazamas.org/gettingstarted carefully before creating your account. If you still have questions after reading the information, email us at help@ mazamas.org.
MAY 2019 37
THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting date is on Tuesday, May 21. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting by sending an email to adventure@mazamas.org and making a request.
by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager President Laura Pigion called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 4 p.m. on Tuesday, April 16. Following approval of the agenda, Secretary Laura Guderyahn received approval for the March minutes. Laura also noted that membership, as of the end of March, stands at 3,378. Treasurer Traci Manning gave an overview of the February financials. Total operating revenue was $709,825 with operating expenses of $845,286. Assets were $654,674. Both income and expenses are tracking under budget. In her Acting Executive Director Report, Sarah Bradham gave a brief update on staffing and upcoming events. Laura Burger is back from maternity leave. She expects to post a job description for the Advocacy Manager position soon. In future events, the Annual Celebration & Volunteer Recognition event will be Wednesday, May 1. To celebrate the Mazamas' 125th Anniversary a weekend of activities are planned for July 19–21, and a 125th Anniversary Block Party at the MMC is scheduled July 28. In internal reporting, Sarah noted that BCEP is coming to an end after a successful seven-week run. Sarah praised Tim Scott and the committee for their hard work in light of the many changes within the Education Department. Staff is currently working to source instructors for the crevasse rescue skill builder class. After a slight hitch with the website’s server load, climb application opened for a majority of 2019 climbs. In the first day, the 117 climbs received 1,270 applications. Adventure CLIMB camp will go ahead as planned after receiving enough applications. Three outdoor youth climbs with Portland Parks and Recreation's Youth Conservation Crews will take place at Broughton Bluff. Reynolds School District is on track to have all their 5th grade students go through Mazamas Mountain Science School, increasing the capacity of this program. Planning is ongoing for the Mazamas 125th Anniversary. The 125-mile challenge is currently underway with over 300 participants, leaders are scheduling anniversary hikes 38 MAZAMAS
and climbs, and the Mazamas will host a community block party Sunday, July 28 at the MMC. The Mazama Library is working with the Oregon Historical Society on a glass lantern slideshow to celebrate the Mazamas 125th anniversary while telling the story of early Pacific Northwest mountaineering. Sarah concluded her internal reporting with a preview of the upcoming calendar and badge improvements to the mazamas.org website. In external reporting, Sarah recapped a recent meeting with the Mazamas Foundation on payments towards the current strategic grant. She relayed an update on the 10-year Mount Hood National Forest permit. She is working with both USFS and Columbia Gorge Scenic Recreation Area representatives to understand how the Mazamas can help ease problems in these areas with our presence as opposed to add to them. In regards to the Central Cascades Permit, the Mazamas reviewed an amendment to the original plan and determined that the restrictions are still significant and overreaching. The Mazamas objection to the policy stands. She is awaiting word from the USFS on the policy that will go into effect by Memorial Day 2020. Kris Oliveira and AJ Wheeler, of Kerm & Thompson Accountants, were on hand to present a draft of the 2018 audit. After walking the board through a handful of areas that need additional clarification, Kris announced that they intend to issue an unmodified clear opinion on the audit. Erica Stock, Mazama Development Director, gave an update on fundraising and membership. Individual donations continue to track upward. To date for our current fiscal year, we have secured $188,776 in donations. Short term fundraising will focus on the Mazamas 125th Anniversary. Erica is working on several grant applications and status reports that are due by late May. The Mazamas are on target to achieve our membership revenue targets for 2019. Erica ended her report by announcing a plan to provide additional financial and estate
planning benefits to Mazama members that will roll out in May and early June. Vice President Marty Scott gave an update on the Executive Director transition planning. The board has signed a contract with the Valtas Group to run the recruitment process. Regular communications continue to go out via a monthly column in the Bulletin. Ed Rogan, the lead consultant with Valtas, completed two days of onsite interviews with board members, staff, and select volunteers. Board members are in the process of interviewing an additional eighteen volunteers and community members for further input on the desired qualifications and characteristics for the executive director position. A finalized job profile is expected by the end of April and will be posted to job markets and the membership by early May. Sarah then engaged the board in a conversation about the lingering financial complexities between the Mazamas and the Mazamas Foundation. Sarah is working with staff and our accountant to straighten out the cash flow between the two organizations and propose a plan for going forward. Laura Pigion wrapped up with the public portion of the meeting with a quick recap of the agenda for the upcoming board retreat. No members chose to speak during the member comment period. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, May 21 at 4 p.m.
We love these places. *
*Love is a verb; without action, it is merely a word.
Green Trails Maps™ is committed to supporting trail maintenance and development. We contribute and work with trail advocacy organizations throughout the west to ensure you and your next generations have more and better access to these treasures. Green Trails ‘Boots on the Ground’ Mapping Crews walk the talk and mapeach step to ensure users have the most accurate and current trail information available.
www.facebook.com/GreenTrailsMaps
www.GreenTrailsMaps.com
206.546.MAPS (6277)
MazamasÂŽ 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215 www.mazamas.org
Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon