Mazama July 2019 Magazine

July 2019 Vol. 101 | No. 7

mazamas turns 125!

Join us for our block party to celebrate our 125th anniversary on July 28 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

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President's Address: 1894 & 2019, p. 4 Song of the Mazamas, p. 8 The Enduring Spirit of the Mazamas, p. 10 The Ascent of Mt. Hood, p. 13 Mountaineering Gear: Then & Now, p. 16 Should We Be Thinking About Last Ascents, Instead of First Ones, p. 22 Trips Down Memory Lane, p. 26 The Life & Photos of Bill Hackett, p. 34

MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 am.–7 pm.; Fri. 10 am.–2 pm.

MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028; Phone: 503-272-9214 Hours: Thu. Noon–Sun. Noon

SARAH BRADHAM Acting Executive Director sarah@mazamas.org

MONTHLY CONTENT Volunteer Opportunities, p. 6 Upcoming Activities, p. 7 Outings, p. 20 AYM, p. 21 Classics, p. 24

Membership Report, p. 25 Mazama Library, p. 30 Mazama Lodge, p. 32 Trail Trips, p.36 Executive Council, p. 38

ADVERTISER INDEX Davis Financial, p. 219 Embark Exploration, p. 31 Green Trails Maps, p. 2 Mountain Shop, p. 40 Next Adventure, p. 12

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Rab, p. 39 Vaqas Malik Photography, p. 7 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org

MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@ mazamas.org

LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@ mazamas.org

KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org

CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facillities@mazamas.org

Cover: Ian McCluskey on the summit of Mt. Hood in June 2019 with Frank Riley's alpenstock. Above: Mazamas on Tom, Dick, and Harry Mountain on June 2, 2019. Front row from left to right: Jennifer Green, Minah DeAinza, Heather Connors and Kirsten Jacobson. Back Row from left to right: Brian Dickerson, Angela Schaefer, Margarita Nunez and Grant Schoepper.

PUBLICATIONS TEAM Guest Editors: Lindsey Garner & Mathew Brock Editor: Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Lindsey Garner, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Ali Gray, and Katie Polanshek (publications@mazamas.org)

JULY 2019 3

President’s Address William G. Steel, Inaugural Year 1894

E

very organization that becomes a permanent success is called into existence for a purpose, and succeeds only as long as it adheres to that purpose. Great curiosity has been manifested throughout the country as to just what the Mazamas are, why they came into existence, and what they propose to do. It seems to be a generally accepted idea that it is necessary for the wealthy to go to Europe to witness the fine scenery. Such is not the case; as from Niagara Falls to Crater Lake our own country is one vast store-house of magnificence where Nature has outdone herself in creating scenes of beauty and grandeur. Of these, Niagara, the Mammoth Cave, the Yellowstone Park, the Yosemite, the Alaska are already known; but it remains for the Cascade range to astonish the world with its hidden treasures.

It is said that the glaciers of Rainier rival those of Switzerland; and yet Rainier is but little known. The Oregon caves are almost totally unknown; and yet they approach the Mammoth Cave in both beauty and extent.

Many tourists have gazed on the grandeur and beauty of the scenery of the Columbia river, and have marvelled at the scene; its praises have been sung by poets and its beauties painted by artists; yet within the limits of Oregon I have seen twenty miles of unbroken scenery, the poorest portion of which is equal to the best miles of the Columbia river. These views are known to but few of our own citizens, much less to travellers from abroad. It is one of the objects of the Mazamas to find these gems of nature and to publish broadcast the best way to reach them; to prepare maps and charts, descriptions and pictures; to interest tourists, artists, and poets, and even citizens of our own State. It is not flattering, but true, that as a class the last named take the least interest in this subject. We hope by and by to maintain rooms in the City of Portland, where all this information may be obtained free of charge.

We hope, too, to have club houses at various mountains where members can present their cards and find climbing outfits, cooking utensils, shelter and comfort. We hope to interest the general government in making careful surveys, and reliable maps of our almost unexplored mountains. Never before in the history of the world was a scene like that of July 19 last witnessed on the summit of a mountain so difficult to climb as Hood, and at an elevation so great as 11,225 feet. With thunder and lightning below us, and the bright sunshine above, we clambered up the mountain and stood on the topmost peak, nearly two hundred strong.

To-night we have gathered to greet you, and extend to you a hearty welcome and a wish that at some time in the future you may join us in our annual outing.

Portland, Oregon, Oct. 1, 1894

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Laura Pigion, 125th Anniversary

O

ur 125th anniversary is an incredible time to reflect on our organization’s long and rich history. We can look back at how the vision and purpose set forward at our founding continues to be core to who we are. William Steel’s address provides great context around the ‘objects’ of the Mazamas: we were founded upon mountain exploration, scientific research, and artistic appreciation. Steel paints a vision where the natural beauty of our local ‘gems of nature’ are fully known, appreciated, and accessible for exploration— especially by our local community. He was resolved that the Mazamas should stay true to this purpose, having learned from a prior attempt to start an alpine-focused organization whose scope broadened over a short time. Staying true to our purpose was his guidance for the Mazamas to be a ‘permanent success.’

After 125 years, I think William Steel would be very proud to see how the Mazamas have carried forward this purpose, and that it is still front and center for everything we do today.

Our updated mission statement, “Inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains,” is a modern-day translation of those core tenets from our founding, and everything we do as an organization helps to move this mission forward. To highlight a few examples: our Education, Activities, and Youth & Outreach Programs provide many opportunities for our local community to safely enjoy our local ‘gems of nature’; we have a professionally managed Library & Historical Collections that is one of the best and most comprehensive in the nation; and our work to ensure responsible access to, and protection of, our public lands has positioned us as a trusted voice and thought partner at the state and regional level. We have grown from an organization of a few hundred members to over 3,500 strong today, and have hundreds of dedicated volunteers and a professional staff. We have a strong community that is invested in our mission and to our continued success as an organization.

As we look ahead, our modern-day challenges are evolutions on the original picture laid forth by William Steel. Just as we need to stay true to our original

purpose, that purpose needs to come to life in a way that remains relevant to our community. We are witnessing changes in our society and in the outdoor industry: fast-immersion experiences are rising in popularity; competition for short-duration education and activity offerings is on the rise; the nature of volunteerism is changing in favor of short-term commitments; access to and protection of our public lands is becoming increasingly at risk due to lack of funding and political agendas—to name a few. Feedback from our members and community have given us important insights that are shaping our focus, so we continue to stay relevant.

As we look ahead, we will continue to preserve the core of who we are, while focusing on those things that will help us to evolve. This includes increasing our Education, Activity, and Youth & Outreach offerings to better serve the needs of our community; creating national standards for volunteer leaders and instructors in

the US; continuing to advocate for the access and protection of our public lands; and being a welcoming space for everyone who loves the mountains by working to build diverse, equitable, and inclusive programming.

As we celebrate our 125th anniversary, it is a great time to take stock of all that we have accomplished as an organization, how far we have come, and the exciting road ahead to continue to explore, research, and protect our mountains. It is also a time to appreciate what allowed us to get here: a critical part of our ability to do this is our people—our dedicated members and volunteers, and our skilled staff who all come together to accomplish our mission. We thank you for being a vital part of the Mazamas today and hope that you will join us as we work towards our vision of the Mazamas of the future. Thank you, and here’s to another bright 125 years of loving and protecting the mountains.

JULY 2019 5

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES JOIN THE PORTLAND ALPINE FEST TEAM Held in mid-November, the Portland Alpine Fest is the biggest event the Mazamas puts on each year! Help us create another sold-out event by joining our team. We are looking for dedicated individuals who want to commit to helping with clinics, evening events, and marketing. Email paf@mazamas.org if you are interested.

PROGRAM COMMITTEE MEMBERS The Programs Committee is seeking members! Join the team that puts together the evening travel programs schedule each year and manages the operations of the programs.

Email programs@mazamas.org if you are interested.

OFFICE VOLUNTEERS Are you looking for a fun and interactive way to get to know the Mazama community and programming better? Do you find yourself with free time during the week? Office volunteers support staff with everything from answering phones and emails to organizing supplies and helping to manage our database. At the Mazama Mountaineering Center, office volunteers are often the first face and voice that members and non-members interact with, so if you are a friendly person who’s looking to share your inspiration to love and protect the mountains, we want you! Apply at tinyurl.com/mmcofficevolunteer.

SALESFORCE ASSISTANCE Do you have experience using Salesforce? We could use your help! The Mazamas have a Salesforce database and are looking for assistance in building custom reports and actions.

Email sarah@mazamas.org if you are interested in helping.

PUBLICATIONS TEAM The Bulletin is enjoyable to read, but it is even better to be a part of the team that makes it happen each month! We are looking for editors, writers, and lovers of grammar to join our team. Inquire at publications@mazamas.org.

LIBRARY ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks. Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests. Volunteers should have an interest in mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices helps, but not required. Please contact Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager, at mathew@mazamas. org to learn more.

If you are interested in any of these roles, email volunteer@mazamas.org.

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TRANSITION TEAM UPDATE

by Marty Scott, Mazama Vice President I’m excited to report that we have received in excess of 55 applications from individuals interested in becoming the Mazamas’ next Executive Director. Our partners at the Valtas Group have reviewed the materials submitted by each applicant and have completed initial interviews with each of the most highly qualified applicants.

Following those interviews, the lead consultant from the Valtas Group prepared packets for each member of the transition team, which included the materials submitted by each applicant and a brief summary of his interview with each candidate. Then, the transition team met with the lead consultant for an oral presentation of the background, skills, experience, and merits of each candidate. Following this presentation, the transition team selected the candidates they felt would be the best fit for the Mazamas and invited them to an interview in July where they will have the opportunity to meet with both staff and the members of the Executive Council. Following these meetings, staff and Executive Council members will provide input to the transition committee to assist them in evaluating the applicants in preparation for the final selection.

If you have comments or questions regarding the transition, please email the transition committee at transition@ mazamas.org.

UPCOMING ACTIVITIES & EVENTS DICK & JANE MILLER'S ANNUAL CLASSIC'S POTLUCK July 6, 12:30 p.m. at Dick & Jane Miller's House Longtime Mazamas, Dick and Jane Miller, are hosting their annual midsummer potluck celebration for Classics Mazamas (25+ years of membership). If you've never attended one of the picnics or have been before, plan to come this year and invite another Classic Mazama or significant other to share in potluck fashion: main dish, salad, or dessert. Lemonade and water will be provided. Also provided will be plates, cups, forks, knives, and spoons. Plan to arrive at 12:30 pm and eat at 1 pm. Check online at mazamas.org/event/720/ for address and directions.

MAZAMA TRAIL HIKES July 19 & 20, NOON–6 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center As a part of the 125th anniversary celebration of Mazamas and the 25th anniversary of the Mazama Trail, there will be two hikes a day on both July 19 & July 20th. One hike will be a short, slow, 1½ miles from the trailhead to “Whipsaw Alley,” with an elevation gain of 1,000 ft. Led by Ray Sheldon, it will cover the planning, layout, and construction of the trail. The hike will leave the Trailhead at 10:15 a.m. The second hike, led by Rick Pope, will cover the entire 3.75 miles and 2,000 ft. of elevation gain from the trailhead to the Timberline Trail. Rick will be sharing the upper trail construction, annual maintenance, and the affect of the forest fires on the trail. His groups will be starting at 10 a.m. each day.

FEATURED EVENT

MAZAMA 125TH BLOCK PARTY & OPEN HOUSE July 28, NOON–6 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center The Mazamas are hosting a 125th Anniversary Open House and Block Party! We hope you will get outside and love the mountains over the weekend of July 19 (our official birthday) and then come celebrate with us on July 28! There will be food, fun, and games for all ages.

ASCENDING AFGHANISTAN: RISING WOMEN FILM SCREENING July 27, 6:30 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center Please join us for a screening of the award-winning documentary that follows the experiences of the young Afghan women who form Afghanistan’s first team of female mountaineers. As they undertake their first expedition to climb a previously unclimbed peak, they also work to overcome societal restrictions and gender stereotypes. The American non-profit organization Ascend: Leadership Through Athletics provides these empowerment programs, and the director, Marina LeGree, will be present to discuss ways to be involved. More information about the organization can be found here: www.ascendathletics.org.

Update from June 2019 issue: On page 20, the first photo in the upper left hand corner, Carol Beauclerk was listed as unknown. The photo should have been labeled: Carole Beauclerk, Rex Breunsbach, and Alice Brocoum. We regret the oversight.

MAZAMA MOUNTAIN RUNNING CAMP Aug. 2–4 at Mazama Lodge Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at beautiful Mazama Lodge, the 21/2-day, 2-night camp includes group runs, clinics, training plans and philosophies, instruction by top level runners, and more.

Transportation, meals (excellent quality, fresh foods, vegetarian and gluten-free available) are included, along with bunk-style lodging. Mazama Lodge is at appx. 1,500 ft. below historic Timberline Lodge. Runs will take place between 3,000–6,500 ft. in elevation. Get details at: mazamas.org/mrc/

JULY 2019 7

Song of the Mazamas

by Frank V. Drake, ca. 1895

We’ll clamber the cliffs on Columbia's shore; By splendid Willamette, where cataracts roar; Anon to the mountain—venturous mood We’ll camp in the gap of the crater of Hood; Explore his dread canyons, which suns never light; Climb upwards, through tempests, to caverns of white, Where snows are eternal, and Flora in vain Invades the fierce Ice King’s exalted domain; Drink deep of the wine of his crystalline fountains, And carnival hold with the gods of the mountains.

O’er ledges of iron and silver and gold, O’er craters extinguished and ashes long cold, O’er glacier, where erstwhile volcanoes aglow Poured rivers of lava through forests below, We’ll conquer St. Helens, and there near the sun, Fair altar uprear to the Infinite One; ‘Mid silence eternal in that hallowed place Feel presence Almighty, gain glimpse of His face.

On mountains can mortals yield purest oblation; There only, O mortal, know God in Creation.

We’ll master proud Baker, by north sea afar; Rainier’s grisly frontal, where clouds are at war; Mt. Shasta, Three Sisters, Pitt, Jefferson, too, Shall greet us. The fossil beds, wondrous to view, Shall welcome our coming, and tell in our ears Strange tales of the ages, the secrets of years.

On Crater Lake sailing, at midnight we’ll go, Weird wisdom to gain on its ghost-haunted ocean, And, shuddering, learn the soul’s deepest emotion.

Thought fir-woods gigantic and gnarled chaparral, Past gorges prodigious where wild echoes dwell, To Adams’ hoar summit; we thence will review That “Presidents’ Range” which the Pioneers knew; Lo northward, lo southward, in martial array Stand monarch's yond monarchs whose crowns fret the sky.

Look westward—the sea at their feet lies asleep; Look east and behold the far desert’s broad sweep.

Now hushed are our boastings, Ah, man! They life’s drama Seems puny and vain in the realms of Mazama.

Earth’s bosom for couches, gemmed azure for covers; We seek, for companions, dame Nature’s bold lovers, The Past to consider, Time’s records explore: The Present to ponder, Earth’s beauties adore: The Future—Ah, Mystic! wilt open thy door?

Portland, Oregon

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JULY 2019 9

The Enduring Spirit of the Mazamas As Told by an Alpenstock

by Ian McCluskey

H

ello, I am an alpenstock. Maybe you’ve seen me in the sepia photos of turn-of-the century climbers?

You know, the wooden poles with a spiked metal tip? I was kind of a big deal back then.

10 MAZAMAS

I was once the cherished climbing companion of Frank Branch Riley.

Me and Frank, we scaled pretty much every Cascade peak from Shasta to Baker.

But the most famous climb we ever did was on July 19, 1894.

It started with a challenge. Advertisements went out in newspapers across Oregon. A new club was to be formed—by mountaineers, for mountaineers. There would be one—and only one—prerequisite to join: you had to have summitted a glaciated peak. And if you attended the very first meeting, you’d qualify. Because that first meeting was to be held on the 11,249 ft. top of Mt. Hood.

Some 350 people set off to this inaugural meeting—on horses, in buggies, even hay wagons. They converged on Government Camp, setting up a small city of tents as basecamp. It took some folks three days just to get there.

If that wasn’t enough, the weather got nasty. Thunder started to crash around us, then it started to sleet. As we marched toward the stormy mountaintop, wool clothes became heavy, leather boots became soaked.

So many people turned back that I lost count after a hundred.

Higher and higher we climbed. The winds began to wail. The sleet pelted.

Yet, 193 hardy souls made it to the summit. Thirty-eight of them were women. In the lowlands, they didn’t have the right to vote; in the alpine, they were equals.

Also on the summit that day was 17-year-old Frank Riley. And me, his sturdy alpenstock. So there I was 125 years ago when this intrepid group of climbers formed a club, calling themselves “Mazamas.”

From there, things took off. Frank and I climbed more peaks: Hood four times, Adams twice, and Baker, Rainier, Shasta, South and Middle Sister, and St Helens (when it was higher). In 1915, the Mazamas even made Frank their president.

Us alpenstocks had been around since the Middle Ages, helping shepherds traverse the snowfields of the Alps. We didn’t just witness the advent of mountaineering—we made

it possible. But times change. After a while, mountaineers swapped us out for the ice axe.

An alpenstock without a glacier is, well, just a broomstick with a pointy end. I went into a deep existential depression. Frank passed away. And I figured I’d never see the mountains again.

Then, in 1994, they took me up Hood for the centennial commemoration. I didn’t recognize any of the faces, but I sure did remember the view. I could really get used to this again, I thought.

But as soon as the centennial hoopla was over, they stuck me back in storage with the other “artifacts.”

Our curator, Matthew Brock, loves to give tours of the collection to anyone who asks. But, any time he takes me out to show me off to someone, he puts me right back.

Humans are funny about anniversaries. 125 years since that first meeting on top of Mt. Hood, Mathew

pulled me out again, but this time he handed me over. To this new fella I’d never seen before, Ian McCluskey.

Ian stuck me in his Jeep and we started to drive. Where we were going, I had no idea. To be honest, I feared Goodwill. The final cast off of obsolescence.

But as soon as we got out of the car, I recognized the unmistakable smell of snow. Not just any snow but glacial snow.

Just before midnight, we set off at a brisk pace. How familiar it felt to stab into the snow, and feel the air thin with elevation.

But then I suddenly got a sinking feeling. We’d set off from a parking lot at 6,000 ft.—where was the long approach?

I recalled when it took days to get to a mountain, and how fun it was to make a campaign camp of canvas tents, and for all of us—sometimes up a 100

continued on next page

Left page: The alpenstock on the summit of Mt. Hood in June 2019. Photo: Ian McCluskey. Above left: Frank Riley on the summit of Mt. Hood, ca 1920s. Right: Julie Kentosh leading down the mountain with the alpenstock.

JULY 2019 11

Alpenstock, continued from previous page climbers—to march up Cooper Spur.

Now, I found myself in a climb team of just 12, headed up a groomed snowcat track.

When the club was founded on Mt. Hood’s summit, they invented a cheer: Wah-who-wah!

Wah-who-wah!

Billy goat, nanny goat!

MA-ZA-MA! But no one seemed to know the official “Mazama yell.” I began to fear that in 125 years, the club had lost its founding spirit.

As we ascended the Palmer snowfield, I was handed over to another climber to try out. After only a moment, she passed me back and asked for her carbon fiber trekking poles.

By first light we reached the Devil’s Kitchen, and started up the Hogsback. Then at dawn, as we crested up and out of the Pearly Gates, Ian lead the team the final way to the summit. To the east, the sun gleamed golden. To the west stretched the perfect triangle of the mountain's shadow. Just like I remembered. Just as it has for every climber who has stood atop a this summit, for every generation.

Hugs, high fives, and summit selfies—a new tradition. The team took turns posing with me.

The team’s leader, Rico Micallef, had climbed his first mountain at age 50, and then quickly advanced to Climb Leader. Although he’s scaled some of the most rugged peaks by the most technical routes, taking teams up all the 16 Major Cascade Peaks, and summiting Hood some 30 times, his reward this day was knowing that for six of the eight climb participants, it was their very first Hood summit. Two of them would earn their Guardian Peaks award with this climb. And for the Assistant Leader, Julie Kentosh, it would complete her final assist and promote her to Provisional Climb Leader.

I realized the vision that had been put in place atop this summit 125 years ago was being carried on.

There's a lot of old rucksacks and hobnail boots in the collection that are going to cast disparaging words, saying that this climb team didn't truly live up to the old days. That they wore goretex not wool, that they had clear skies not sleet. That they didn’t even climb on the exact date of the quasquicentennial. Or maybe the exact route, or the exact whatever.

But I witnessed the true spirit of why we founded the club on the summit of Mt. Hood: in the sore muscles, sunburned faces, and smiles. The exhaustion, the elation. The teamwork, the mentorship.

Moods were high, as we descended. The sun warmed the snow to slush.

Julie held me proudly, a new climb leader, leading out.

Author Bio: Ian McCluskey has been seen on several summits in wool pants handed down from his parents.

12 MAZAMAS

THE ASCENT OF MT. HOOD Editor's note: Frank Branch Riley was a seventeen-year-old high school student when he climbed Mt. Hood in 1894. What follows is the entirety of his first-person account, written as a letter to family and friends, of the Mazama inaugural climb. Allen Riley made the accompanying cover drawing. In 1916, Frank Branch Riley became the twenty-third President of the Mazamas. He remained a member until 1970, when he died at the age of 98 years. The letter is reprinted exactly as written, including spelling errors and stylistic oddities.

by Frank Branch Riley, 1894

T

his description is written as a letter to those who may be interested in the more unusual experiences of my life. It is hoped that some new information concerning Mt. Hood is contained herein. F.B.R. Looking from Portland to the East, the beautiful mountains of the Cascade Range can be seen, blue with distance, extending in unbroken orderly array from North to South as far as the eye can reach.

In the midst of this line, like a giant among pygmies, like a royal monarch of the range, rises a glorious isolated snow peak whose summit is twelve thousand feet above the plain: a stupendous silent volcano whose vast crater is filled with glacial snow and ice: a hoary sentinel of the valley standing supreme in its majesty and beauty. Men have named this mighty result of God’s desire, Mt. Hood. By reviewing a map of this region you will see that Mt. Hood is an extinct volcano situated on the Pacific Coast in the Cascades, about 120 miles from the Pacific Ocean.

From Portland the mountain in clear weather {which is almost constant except in rainy season) is seen dazzling white from base to top in day time, and in the evening the setting sun bathes the peak in warm soft colors, many tints being delicately suggested before the night is fully ushered in.

To the citizen in the city the mountain is a thing of beauty and a joy, but it is with the truest lover of Nature that he enters into holy friendship, the one who takes his blankets and food, his alpenstock and mountain shoes, and travels toward Mt. Hood as his Mecca, to worship at the Shrine which is at the summit. This man may become intimately acquainted with the several mighty glaciers that cling to the Old Mountain in icy embrace. He may climb up over snowfields and reach the crater where his hoary host will warm his half-frozen guest and give him enchanting glimpses of the hereafter, at the same time.

On July 14th, I left Portland with a jolly party, thirty in number, for the mountain. As we passed down the paved street of the city toward the East, at an early hour of that day, our equipment presented somewhat the following appearance. Four great horses attached to a strongly built vehicle. A conspicuous sign which read “Piano and Furniture moving” painted on the side, betrayed the fact that the wagon was made for city use. But by clever arrangement it was made to accommodate about eighteen young men and women who sat on seats facing each other. It presented somewhat the appearance of a well filled omnibus.

Next came a smaller conveyance, filled in the same manner, drawn by two horses. Then came a great wide deep wagon with two horses and one team of mules. This wagon was filled with abundant provisions, blankets, tents, alpenstocks, etc.

Among the thirty there were seventeen women and girls. Their

manner of dress for the occasion was sensible and becoming. The skirt was a warm woolen one and it reached to the knee. On the lower part of the leg, stockings and canvas leggings were worn.

The shoes were plain and strong with soles of double thickness into which tacks had been driven to facilitate climbing. A loose pretty blouse and a wide hat with careless trimming completed the comfortable costume.

The sweet happy face that looked out from beneath each hat, testified to the pleasure and advantage received with the new dress.

The men wore their oldest clothes and made no attempt at anything approximate to the Alpine dress.

We made camp in the late afternoon of the first day in a charming wood of gigantic trees near Cedar Creek, a pretty mountain stream 28 miles from the city. The Sunday breakfast next morning included 75 trout caught in the stream.

At four O’clock Sunday P.M. we resumed the journey and traveled until after dark. We pitched the tents and prepared the supper by the light of camp fires. At four o’clock the next morning the start was made. Most of the company walked at intervals during the day and covered distances of between 9 and 14 miles.

The mountain scenery along was wild and lonesome in the extreme. Occasionally a little farm was seen, a rather insignificant but sure evidence that Civilization in a conflict with the vast Wilderness had gained a tiny bit of territory.

While passing up a canyon we came upon the “Toll Gate” at noon. Here further passage of the road was made impossible because of an obstruction. It swung inward under certain conditions. A bold sign attracted attention immediately, partly because it furnished necessary information to the jaded traveler, and partly because of the careful and laborious effort shown in punctuation. The “Mt. Hood and Barlow Road Co.” notified the public that the following were “The Rates of toll.”

Oxes each, 1$ Cattles eaCH.:, 1$ Pigs eAch, 50 cts.

Sheep eAch, , 1$ Mule each: 1$ Horse ea CH,, 1$ The morning in the woods had been pleasant but the heat became intense and traveling would now be over the barren desert-like hills in the course of the lava which used to flow over this region from the distant volcano. We rested at the Toll Gate an hour or so, ate a wholesome lunch and made several pictures with a Kodak.

Several minutes previous to the departure of the party, another young man and myself continued the journey on foot. We kept up a swift steady gait over the hot dusty difficult hills. We got enchanting glimpses of the mountain at times. It looked near and

continued on next page JULY 2019 13

Ascent, continued from previous page gave encouragement.

The party behind left some ten dollars with the tall grizzlybearded specimen in the shanty by the gate and followed us.

We refreshed ourselves in the ice-cold mountain stream which crossed the road occasionally in its meandering. The road again led through a forest and finally, after conquering many hills, we saw the smoke of fires at “Government Camp.”

Several minutes later we reached the extensive clearing which has that name. Twas once the camp of a company of United States soldiers who spent one winter there in early times. It is at the foot of Mt. Hood which a sudden turn in the road brings into full view.

I can never forget the solemnity and beauty of the old peak as it towered 11,000 feet above us and caught the last colorblessing of the dying day. Its mighty towers and pinnacles, its castle-like architecture with awful battlements of many colored rock, its canyon walls and lofty ledges that pierced the snow, which rested gracefully in endless fields over the mountain’s form, all lit up in the glory-light of the golden sunset.

Even as I looked the colors changed, faded, and dark restless shadows hastened up the long white slope to the ragged summit. Night was coming on.

Growing uneasy for the party’s welfare, we selected a camping place, and retraced our steps back over the forest road to meet them. Soon we came upon groups of them walking wearily and fighting mosquitoes {as we were doing) with an earnestness born of necessity. Presently we came upon the wagons. Considerable trouble had been encountered with bad road. The first driver was fighting mosquitoes with one hand, and driving four horses with the other. The mosquitoes in this region, I remember were boney-framed, feather-covered, with stilettos like the end of an alpenstock. The other two drivers had given up hope of successful warfare against the birds, and they hung about the men’s heads like clouds on mountain crests. My words of encouragement made them smile in spite of their somewhat bumpy condition of face.

Soon we were all in Government Camp pleasantly situated on the bank of a clear snow-water mountain stream. This being the temporary terminus of the trip, we took especial care with the arrangement of the camp and raised the Stars and Stripes over it.

A most excellent meal was enjoyed, all of us contributing in some manner to its preparation. Then came the usual happy social time around the campfire, when songs were sung and merry jests were frequent, and the jovial conversation was upon subjects the lightest and pleasantest.

The embers gradually became fewer, and when the fire was finished we walked out into the darkness. Suddenly we were all conscious of a mellow light everywhere. A full mid-summer moon, coming from behind a low wooded hill, had found the world.

Instinctively we looked toward the mountain. O the glory of it. How the white-robed majestic sentry shone with its flood of silver light.

We puny creatures of earth down in the timber, seven miles below, drew our 7 garments close about us-for the wind was very cold-and gazed up at the heights without speaking.

We were more or less fatigued with the journey of the last few days and began to partially realize that a serious determined effort was necessary to gain the summit: that success would only come 14 MAZAMAS

FBR 001. Front cover of FBR’s letter to his family, ca 1894.

with work, genuine work and many hours of it too. And we began to suspect that all would not reach the goal and accomplish the feat of scaling a snow-peak, and we wondered who would fail. None of us felt especially confident, yet all went to bed determined to make the attempt at the proper time. This was the night of July 16th. The ascent was planned for the Nineteenth.

The next morning the camp awakened early. Breakfast was soon prepared and eaten, and we made ready to take a preparatory mountain trip as an experiment. With canteens, mountain-sticks and knapsacks with food, we began the climb.

The trail first led up over hills of lava, then through a thick growth of timber. We soon came to the snow which was often twenty feet deep in the woods. Over this we trudged and came out of the denser part of the forest where the growth of trees was more scattered in the snow.

The view had been growing more extensive continually, and we occasionally stopped to rest, eat a lemon and enjoy the prospect.

We could already look down on the surrounding mountains.

To the South and looking very near us, stood Mt. Jefferson in plain view from base to peak, a beautiful snow covered extinct volcano 10200 feet high and fifty miles away. To the left and beyond the Three Sisters glistened, a beautiful trio, prodigious in form.

At noon I reached the timber line. On one of the ledges of lava which protruded above the snow, we gathered for a luncheon of sardines and crackers and an hours rest. Some soil had accumulated there, and about the last group of stunted fir trees on the timber line furnished protection from the sun.

Several of my friends returned at once to Government Camp, but some of us started out across the Sandy Glacier and after walking about a mile, came upon the canyon of the Sandy. Tis a

vast chasm and its bottom is filled with snow. Here the Sandy River that the people in the distant valley know about is born.

We enjoyed the huge sport of rolling great boulders down the wall of the gorge. Twas something of a job to get one weighing two tons started. It would roll slowly for a moment through the loose gravel at the top, but soon it would be tearing down among the loose rock with a loud noise. Perhaps half way down it would strike a cliff of some sort and leap madly fifty feet into the air, much to our delight who were expectantly watching above. Finally it would reach the snow in the canyon bed and go tearing fiercely along leaving a broad path behind, and taking with it countless number of smaller rock, rolling swiftly forward, crossing each others tracks, and leaving a perfect network of tiny trails behind. The novel sight had all the excitement of a race, and we shouted our approval as the big rock we had sent distanced all minor competitors, zigzagged crazily as if drunk with victory, and finally came to a stop so far away that it looked like a very large pebble.

We returned four miles to Government Camp that afternoon with cold wet feet and red burnt faces, but full of self-approval for our additional exertion.

That evening the supper was cooked entirely by the boys who requested the girls of the camp to remain away from the “kitchen.”

The supper was of several courses and was universally conceded a most elaborate affair. I enacted the part of one of the negro waiters, who with black faces and paper collars (made of paper napkins) served in a metropolitan way and were photographed with a Kodak.* When night came we gathered around the bright camp fire and pulled candy until a late hour.

That night my sleep was undisturbed and refreshing. I was awakened next morning by the sun’s heat which came beating down upon the tent and rendered the air within oppressive.

The mountain had awakened many hours before me and seemed to look kindly down upon the little group of adventurers at his feet. His summit was outlined in detail against the clear blue of the sky and the entire mountain was free from frowning clouds of any kind. One could almost say that Old Hood smiled approvingly and encouragingly down upon the timid creatures in their desire to reach his ice crowned crest.

Before ten o’clock our party was moving in twos and threes up the mountain in accordance with a plan which was about as follows: We would proceed to the timber line; the pack mules would bring blankets and provisions, and we would spend the day and night on the moraine where we ate lunch the proceeding day, and continue the ascent of the mountain in the early morning.

During the afternoon we lay upon blankets in the sun and rested for the work of the following day. At four o’clock in the afternoon we filled our canteens for the journey. A later time would not have done because the tiny stream, caused by the melting snow, froze at sundown and we expected to be far upon the mountain before day break of the following day.

At sunset we watched the beautiful effect of pink and gold coloring on the snow-peaks to the South, and on all the range visible. To the West we saw the wide valley in its last illumination

of the day. The Columbia River shone in the distance, and we traced its golden, threadlike course to the sea, 120 miles away, where the great red sun was sinking. Then we gazed with partial eyes to the heights of Hood. How the already expanded soul was excited to a fullest response at the spectacle of the splendid peak all aglow with its flood of warm pink light. The spires seemed to shoot like flames into the sky: and the precipice walls about the crater seemed burning with a many colored fire. The mountain and the sun, I believe, each love the other one, for the communications of parting were many. The peak seemed to fairly lift his majestic crest to catch the last golden courtesy from the lingering sun, and the wavering color played over his snowy breast and about his crater walls long after the twilight had come to us, six thousand feet below.

Ours was not the only camp fire that gleamed on the mountain that night. I must explain that these were days of history for Mt. Hood. About 250 campers had journeyed from various points on the Pacific Coast to make the ascent together on the morrow. We were known as “Mazamas” by the press and civilization in general.

(Mazama is the name of a nimble mountain goat in the Cascade system). The organization of Mazamas to be born on the extreme summit the following day, and all who reached the top could become charter members by signing the constitution there. So the camp fires of the Mazamas shone brightly at various places across the snow that night.

After replenishing our fire, each of the party rolled him or herself in blankets and lay down at various places over the oasis in the snow, for the night. Suddenly when all was quiet there came from some camp across the snow, the silvery notes of a buglecomet. The musician was playing “Nearer my God to Thee” and it sounded infinitely sweet on the still night air. Somehow we felt very near to God then, on His mountain, and we began to sing the precious hymn. Another camp yonder caught the tune, then another and another, until all the Mazamas swelled the chorus.

Then the faithful bugler sounded “taps” and the little army that must march to victory on the morrow, slept soundly in spite of the cold wind that blew across the glacier and soughed about the camp.

We were awake at two o’clock A.M. The prompt bugle was sounding “reveille” when I arose and shook my cold blankets from me. Camp fires were built anew and blazed in the morning darkness. All was bustle and excitement. The coffee was made: cans of corned beef opened, and crackers placed within the reach of all. While the breakfast was being eaten, the cork for blacking faces was burnt. The burnt cork serves as a protection against the fierce heat of the sun and the reflection from the snow.

With corked faces and eyes protected with blue glasses, we began the ascent. As we turned our faces toward the summit, this was the scene presented: The whole south side of the mountain was in full unobstructed view. A mile to the West was the canyon of the Sandy. About the same distance to the East, the parallel canyon of White River.

Between these two canyons is a vast snow field which rests on

continued on next page

*The Mazamas acknowledges the racism involved in this section of transcript. Rather than hide a racist part of our history, we are choosing to keep the original transcript and events intact. We are sorry for the pain our readers may experience reading this transcript. The Mazamas under no circumstances condones racist behavior, like black face, and is committed to inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains by attending to our past and present racist behaviors, engaging in reflection and training, and working towards a more inclusive mountain community in the Pacific Northwest.

JULY 2019 15

Ascent, continued from previous page the whole south breast of the peak, and which slopes from our feet gradually up to the ragged crest. It is unbroken except for the partial protuberance of an occasionally barren moraine through its surface.

We looked up along this slope until it entered what might be called, the Crater-room of Hood. Originally a lofty circular precipice wall completely surrounded the crater. About half of this remains, but the action of lava or of ice has carried the south portion away and distributed it along down the very slope which we were preparing to ascend. So we looked up into the crater and fixed our eyes on “Crater Rock”, the most conspicuous individual attraction of the whole panorama: a prodigious cone of rock several hundred feet high, situated in the crater’s center. As a background, we gazed upon the interior side of the north crater wall, whose top is the mountain’s summit.

I speak of these things as if they were near, for they appeared so. In reality Crater Rock was just four miles distant. It absolutely did not look, at any time, more than as many hundred feet away.

Various parties were beginning the ascent at intervals of every few minutes and the effect to the eye was of an invading army of ants marching steadily up over an endless hill of white sand. After traveling for two hours and covering about half the distance to Crater Rock, the effect to the eye of the hundred Mazamas who had got a later start and were struggling along at intervals behind, was unique. Looking backward along the trail, it was hard to believe that those tiny black dots distributed along in its whiteness, were really men and women. The constant deceit in distance was marvelous. The timber line even now seemed within a stone’s throw behind. What appeared to the naked eye, a blot on the snow near our camp, was seen with a glass to be a group of people moving upward with two pack mules.

And looking up toward Crater Rock, the great landmark seemed no nearer. An ambitious party preceding us was plodding along near to the rock in single file and to us people half way up, the effect was of a short black line being slowly faintly traced on an unwritten expanse.

About one-half hour after leaving camp, hints of the dawn began to appear about the Eastern horizon. We were climbing steadily and the view was fast growing grand beyond human description. We stopped frequently to lean heavily on our alpenstocks and to witness the action of some storm clouds that had gathered in the valley below during the night.

‘Twas a genuine thunder storm they were having down below and ‘twas fascinating to be above it all, and it was like looking down on an embryo world frightened with the conduct of a baby storm. We could see the lightening part the canopy of clouds and the thunder following would come to us faintly.

The scene was changing continually and before our now somewhat weary legs had accomplished another one-fourth mile, the clouds had changed their position. The day was being ushered in. Have you ever witnessed a sunrise on a mountain? I hope you may some day. It was God’s illumination. All the sky painting I had previously seen in my life, the effects of sunrise, midday, twilight, sunset, were all exhibited together in one ravishing carnival of color. Graceful curtains were gradually hung every- everywhere: curtains of brightest red, of deepest black, of royal yellow, curtains of every conceivable color hung in bewildering confusion throughout the world: resplendent draperies of richest green, or 16 MAZAMAS

purest blue, of gold, of brown, of gray. The sky was tinted with color combinations beyond the conception of earthly artists: and the canopies above were of every shade of every hue. We stood entranced and watched the flying islands of the azure seas and gazed at the color-barges that seemed to spread their rose-tinted sails everywhere. To the South, the marine effect was exquisite. A sea of lavender was there which, even as we looked, changed to a flood of lighter hue.

To us charmed observers the sight was a constant kaleidoscope of all the beauties of Heaven’s Dome. And to our delight, the shadow of the mountain was cast. This does not always occur. It did not seem a shadow, for it was not cast upon a cloud nor on the ground, but it was a black phantom-like thing like the mountain in form and hung in mid-air. Then as we looked, a long line shot up from one of its sides to the full height of the mountain and the outline of the double shadow was cast.

A cry from a companion caused me to stop my climbing again and look toward the South. Mt. Jefferson had caught the sun and shone like a pyramid of silver. Then the Three Sisters beyond awakened, and Pitt as well and then Diamond Peak shook off the shadowy garments of the early dawn and glistened 70 miles away.

The sun remained in sight but for a moment, then disappeared entirely again. A storm was brewing, but I did not notice it. My feet were wet and painful with cold. My hands were exposed, holding the alpenstock which I used constantly.

I forged ahead steadily now and kept up the exertion for fear of freezing. I took short steps, inhaled deep breaths and spoke no word whatever.

Our party had become separated. Some had returned on account of sickness and fatigue: others had proceeded with a slower gait. Three girls, another boy and myself, remained together.

We were within one-quarter mile of Crater Rock when I happened to glance up to the summit. To my astonishment, for the first time it was not to be seen. A snow-cloud was trailing its curtain around up there. The wind grew colder. We began to wish for shelter, when suddenly, I know not how nor from where (Nature acts so quickly) the storm was full upon and around us.

I first thought the old mountain was angry at our invasion: but I came to the conclusion that he was welcoming us and that the snow-balls, which came in such thick profusion, were all thrown in merry sport. We could hear his low laughter in the canyons and the lightening flashed very near us.

About 80 Mazamas mistook the mountain’s greeting and gave up the attempt of ascent. Several who were ahead of us came rushing back and as they passed us on their way down, shouted that no man could reach the summit.

We were headed for the top and struggled on. We were almost to Crater Rock. Added to the excitement of the storm, was the fact that people on the rock above accidentally started heavy stones rolling down its steep surface, and as they came plowing through the snow, there was a lively scattering among the Mazamas to give them a wide berth.

We at last reached Crater Rock, chilled and hungry. Climbing up its difficult side, we rested on the ledge where many climbers were already weathering the storm. The volcano’s last effort must have been the throwing up of this rock. It is warm. Steam escapes from crevices all over it. A thermometer thrust into one of these cracks registered 189”.

We buried our feet in the loose hot gravel and held hot rocks in our hands, placed them in our laps and under our arms. Soon we were fairly comfortable. The smell of burning sulfur frequently came to us with a vengeance and some of my friends became very sick for a time in consequence. Our lunch was carried by one of the party who returned, but fortunately I had brought a loaf of bread.

It was stale and of rather a yellowish color, but we divided it into equal “chunks” and partook of it greedily. It tasted like pound-cake.

We could look down below us in the snowstorm belt and see several groups of Mazamas struggling up the steep slope. After a time the sun came out: the clouds cleared away as if by magic and the day immediately became absolutely perfect and remained so.

The view from Crater Rock was ten times more grand and extensive than I had dreamed it to be. We were now in the crater which is over one mile in diameter. It is filled with snow and ice to a depth that no man can tell. We crossed to the north wall on the “Devil’s Backbone” which runs across the Crater’s center from North to South. The “backbone” is a great drift of snow. It is planned like the roof of a house. The trail is along the extremely narrow ridge. On either side the slope runs swiftly down 500 feet.

To proceed with safety one has to literally straddle the “backbone” and creep along. A misstep on either side would have been the beginning of a toboggan slide which might have ended with a leap into the present-existing crater, from whose mysterious depths came sulfur fumes that smelt terribly.

Soon we encountered the “Great Crevasse”. This great split in the snow runs nearly across the crater near the north wall and cleaves the “backbone” in twain. We looked down into the beautiful grotto of ice. It was ready to forever engulf the Mazama who trod on its brink carelessly. Of what depth was it? Who can say. For it led down to the fathomless subterranean caverns of the old volcano.

We left the “backbone” and walked along the south side of the crevasse until we came to a natural ice bridge which spanned the crevasse at a narrow place. We crossed here and encountered the north wall which is very rugged and covered with snow. The climb here is almost perpendicular: moreover the trail is curved and one cannot see his way more than two steps ahead.

We boys were enabled to help the girls here by going ahead and letting down a life-line with the upper end tied around our bodies, and this rope helped them to conquer the difficult place.

The remainder of the climb was made slowly for progress was not easy. Moreover all of us noticed to some extent the difference in atmosphere. Any little additional exertion seemed to fatigue us utterly for a moment.

Reaching the summit, we found it a comparatively level tract about 100 yards long East and West, and from 20 to 40 yards wide.

The ever present snow is several feet deep here.

I walked to the north edge and looked down a sheer distance of 2000 feet where Eliot Glacier far below, clung to the mountain’s side. Every square inch of at least three distinct glaciers could be seen at one glance. The whole of Eastern Oregon was spread out beneath me as a map. The summit range of the Cascade mountains looked like a series of ant hills. Its great canyons through which the mighty Columbia takes passage, were simply ditches,- shallow ones too. And the Columbia presented the appearance of an irrigating stream. We traced its windings for two or three hundred miles.

With an Empire spread out before me in miniature, it was

easy to see God’s plan worked out in many ways. For instance, the admirable system, of drainage could be traced in moment. The contribution of many silver, thread-like streams made a little cuplike lake which nestled prettily in its basin high up amid a group of wooded mountains. And crinkly lines of silver led to the Columbia all along its course.

At various places in the panorama tiny columns of smoke were presently seen to arise at regular intervals. We were very glad to see these exhibitions of friendly feeling, for people in cities and villages throughout the state were signaling the Mazamas.

Looking to the North, Mount St. Helens and Mt. Adams—both dazzling white—were in full view and seemed very near. They were both peaks of another state. And beyond, Mt. Rainier (15000 ft.) the loftiest in the system, shone 150 miles away. All over the Western part of the State hung a vast canopy of snow white clouds which completely shut out the view of the country. ‘Twas a beautiful cloud effect,- a broad sea of fluffy billowy white that reached to the Pacific Ocean.

To the South, Mt. Jefferson (10200 ft.), the Three Sisters and Diamond Peak arose to greet us. And far, far beyond, on the extreme southern horizon, we saw the rugged mass of Mt. Shasta in California, 350 miles away.

I remained on the summit about twenty-five minutes, during which time I wrote several postal cards and registered my name in a book enclosed in a tin box tied to the summit. A photographer who had struggled up with a camera took a picture. We sang “America” and then the cornetist played “Nearer my God to Thee.”

Then we had a banquet. Here is a portion of the Menu. ~~~~~ At the conclusion of the banquet there will be smoking in the crater. Lord Hood extends the hospitalities of the place to the gentlemen of the club.

The descent was accomplished in about one-third the time consumed in making the climb. We were so intoxicated with our victory in reaching the top: so relieved that the difficult ascent had really been made, that we went down in a wild reckless merry fashion, laughing and shouting all the way. While passing over the dizzy “backbone” we all had a glorious toboggan-like slide down the slope we had so much dreaded in the morning. The sun had softened the snow and we were enabled to stop ourselves at will.

We did not notice the long distance to camp, for at the steeper places, which occurred at intervals all along, we sat down in a line and began to move. To speak frankly, we took long coastssometimes of 800 feet-without toboggan or sled of any kind whatever.

At the timberline camp, hot coffee was ready for us with bread.

We did not stop long here, but hastened down the remaining three miles to our camp at Government Camp, where the best dinner I ever ate was prepared. The next day the return to Portland was begun, and in two days we were in the city again.

In one corner of my room there stands an alpenstock which shows evidence of active service. Near to the top is a metal band on which is engraved: FRANK BRANCH RILEY Mt. Hood, Or. (12,000 ft.) July 19 ‘94.

Have you struggled through it? I really did not mean to make it so long. But come and see us some time and we will climb old Hood together. Then you will know why I didn’t have the courage (or the compassion?) to cut this tedious description short.

JULY 2019 17

Mountaineering Gear: Then and Now

by Mathew Brock and Lindsey Garner

S

pecialized gear for the mountaineer was almost nonexistent in the late 1890s.

Recommendations included clothing that was warm and loose enough to permit the “free action of the body, and strong enough to stand the rough usage of mountain and forest travel.” In practice, this usually meant that people climbed in their old street clothes. For men, button-down shirts, ties, and suit vests are typical attire, paired with cotton or denim pants. For women, a “good tramping suit of denim, corduroy, or similar stuff ” was recommended. Skirts should be short and worn with bloomers.

Guidelines at the time, often in the form of multi-page prospectus, made a note of the essentials and personal outfits everyone should aspire to gather before departing for the mountain. Included in the list were two pairs of shoes: one, a couple of stout, well-fitting, easy-wearing shoes, with extra heavy half inch soles containing hobnails; the other, a more comfortable pair for camp. Several pairs of moderately heavy socks or stocking should be taken. As should broad-brimmed hats, very fine mesh mosquito head-net, gloves, a canteen, small lunch bag with shoulder strap, sleeping bag, soap, towels, and a change of “under clothing of ordinary winter weight.”

Noting that alpenstocks are a great convenience in walking anywhere in the mountains, one was required equipment on all climbs. A climber need not purchase a commercially made alpenstock as one could be “made by affixing a strong steel point to a common garden rake handle, which should be first tested for strength.”

18 MAZAMAS

Rounding out the recommendations were an alcohol stove, brandy, dried prunes and raisins, screwdriver, small screws, tin cup, vaseline, and veil or lampblack.

To give a sense of perspective, none of this material was exceptionally lightweight.

A pair of hobnailed boots alone could weight up to ten pounds, an alpenstock three pounds, and denim paints a pound or two. A fully dressed late-1800s mountaineer could be carrying anywhere from ten to fifteen pounds of just clothing in addition to all the other requirements.

Fast-forward 125 years to present day, and while a mountaineer’s typical pack still contains a hat for sun protection, gloves, a water bottle (or bladder), a change of socks, sleeping bag, and stove, the similarities to 1890s necessities end there. Now a responsible mountaineer will have the 10 essentials, helmet,

crampons, gaiters, a sleeping pad, stuff sacks, harness and associated carabiners and personal protection, a dynamic nylon rope, and ice pickets. Thankfully, all of this additional safety (and comfort) gear does not equate to heavier packs as outdoor clothing and gear companies constantly seek to create newer, more lightweight, more feature-rich pieces of gear with new fabrics and technologies for every facet of mountaineering. For example, the homemade, three-pound alpenstock has been replaced by a less than one-pound stainless steel and aluminum ice axe. Hybrid pieces such as whippets, part ice axe/part ski pole, are becoming more popular. Perhaps most importantly, “lightweight” does not translate to “unsafe”: most technical

gear now undergoes rigorous testing by manufacturers and internationally accredited laboratories and organizations.

Cotton and denim are verboten on the mountain and the trails (as all BCEP students learn during their first hike), and synthetic polyesters and wool are the materials of choice for baselayers, worn underneath synthetic softshell, synthetic down, and Gore-Tex pants and jackets. Today’s mountaineer has two wardrobes: their street clothes and their lightweight, high performance mountaineering clothes. Hobnailing old boots is thankfully no longer required, and Gore-Tex crampon-ready mountaineering boots can weigh as little as three pounds. Skirts—for men and women alike—are reserved for Mother’s Day ascents of Mount St. Helens.

JULY 2019 19

MAZAMA OUTINGS

Apply online at mazamas.org/outings

You can now apply for Mazama Outings on our website. Go to mazamas.org/outings to view all outings. When you apply, you will be prompted to complete your profile, and you’ll enter credit card information. If accepted, your credit card will be charged for the trip deposit, and you will then be sent an invoice for the remainder of the outing cost. This invoice can be paid by credit card or check.

CLIMBING HIGH PEAKS IN THE WALLOWAS: AUGUST 16–25

D

o you yearn to wander in high places?

Have you yet to experience the jaw dropping scenery of the Wallowas in Eastern Oregon? Do you love long days in jagged mountains? Would you love to explore this wondrous area with two experienced Mazama leaders? Then this is THE trip for you.

The Wallowas are a playground for the avid hiker and scrambler—around every turn there is a feast for the eyes.

TREK AROUND GLACIER PEAK (WA): AUGUST 18–24 Join us as we hike around majestic Glacier Peak in Washington state. This 82.7 mile and 22,500 feet net elevation gain trek circumnavigates Glacier Peak, largely on maintained trails. About half the distance will be on the Pacific Crest Trail and there will be a 5-mile off-trail/use-trail section during the hike. Glacier Peak Wilderness is a remote and rugged landscape with numerous passes and stream crossings along the way.

The outing cost ranges from $318 to $271 for a group of 6 minimum to 8 maximum participants (including leaders) and covers all trail fees and lodging costs. We will be carpooling to the trailhead and staying in a hotel the night before and after the trek.

A $100 deposit plus the Outing Fee ($10/day for members; $20/day for nonmembers) will be required upon acceptance.

Contact outing leader Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) for more information.

20 MAZAMAS

You'll climb 7 to 10 of the 9,000-foot+ mountains in northeast Oregon’s Wallowas, including Eagle Cap, Sacajawea Peak, and Oregon’s Matterhorn. We’ll start our five-day backpack with an assist from the Wallowa Lake Tramway, which will whisk us up 3,500 feet to 8,000 feet We will climb four mountains together, and then we will split into two teams when we approach the lake basin where group size is limited to six. When the backpack is over, we’ll offer a day hike and a day climb. All the climbing routes are rated A. Prerequisites: Participants will need to be in good physical condition and have experience on at least one 50 mile (or greater) trek. Participants must also submit a résumé of successful climbs, including those that involved pack-ins to base camp. We will be traveling light and steady, up to 16 miles per day with daily elevation gains reaching as high as 4,000 feet and most time spent at 7,000 feet to 10,000 feet of elevation. The terrain will be challenging with possible scree and brush in the off-trail portion, plus long daytime stretches without access to water.

The outing cost ranges from $204 to $314 for a group of 10 minimum to 12 maximum participants (including leaders) and covers four nights car-camping at Wallowa Lake State Park and an uphill ride on the Wallowa Lake Tramway.

Travel to/from the Wallowas will be by carpool, which is not included in the cost. A deposit of $100 for members or $200 for nonmembers will be required upon acceptance.

This outing is led by Mazama climb leaders Bill Stein and Eugene Lewins. Both have decades of climbing experience, but these mountain climbs will be exploratory for them.

Contact Bill Stein (billstein.rpcv@gmail.com) if you would like additional information, or apply online. Make sure to include your successful backpacks and climbs in your online bio.

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

JULY FEATURED EVENT: GNARL RIDGE HIKE—SUNDAY, JULY 21

Gnarl Ridge on the east flank of Mt. Hood has one of the best views of the great mountain.

Join AYM for a long but rewarding hike to this spectacular vantage point, high on the mountain.

We’ll start at the Elk Meadows Trailhead and climb up to the meadows, before making our final push to the cliffs of Gnarl Ridge. We will stop at the ridge for lunch. On the way back we can spend more time exploring Elk Meadows if there is interest.

▶▶ Distance: 11 miles out and back (with exploration of Elk Meadows included; 9.4 miles otherwise) ▶▶ Elevation gain: 2,500 feet ▶▶ Drive distance from Portland: 115 miles roundtrip (just under 90 minutes each way) NW Forest Pass required for each vehicle. Please remember to bring the Ten Essentials, including at least 2 liters of water (3 liters is better). Sunscreen and sunglasses are a good idea, as it is very exposed on Gnarl Ridge. Wilderness area, hike is limited to 12 participants. Signup online. No dogs. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, 8 a.m. Leader: Matt Reeder

SAVE THE DATE: AYM ANNUAL LABOR DAY TRIP, AUG. 30–SEPT. 2

Keeping with tradition, the AYM Labor Day trip will head far from Portland, this year to the heart of Deschutes National Forest south of Bend.

Participants will have the opportunity to explore incredibly unique and off-the-beaten path locations including Paulina Lake, the Newberry Volcano, and Crack in the Ground. Look for registration to open sometime in mid to late July on mazamas.org.

Don't miss out on the chance to join us on this trip!

Contact aym@mazamas.org with questions.

WANT TO BE FEATURED ON THE AYM INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT? TAG @AYMPDX IN YOUR PHOTOS OF MAZAMA ADVENTURES!

LOOK FOR AYM AT THE MAZAMA 125 BLOCK PARTY OPEN HOUSE JULY 28! AYM LEADERS WE WILL BE HOSTING RAMBLES FROM THE MMC.

Check the website at mazamas. org/AYM and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted.

JULY 2019 21

Should We Be Thinking About Last Ascents, Instead of First Ones?

Mountaineers confront disappearing glaciers.

by Heather Hansman, High Country News

T

he most common route up Gannett Peak, the highest mountain in Wyoming, follows a gooseneck couloir up a skinny snowfield to a gaping crevasse. Darran Wells, a professor of Outdoor Education and Leadership at Central Wyoming College who studies glaciers in the Wind River Range, says that historically, it’s been fairly straightforward to cross, a scramble across a snow bridge. Over the past few years, however, temperatures have been so warm that the crevasse—technically a bergschrund, where the glacier separates from the mountain—opens up, making it nearly impassible. People who have traversed it before without ropes and found the route fairly easy now find it completely different.

Photo: Central Wyoming College students traverse the treacherous Sourdough Glacier in 2016, where rocky rubble had fallen onto a sheet of ice and a misstep could send you sliding into the frigid meltwater below.

Courtesy of Darran Wells, Central Wyoming College

22 MAZAMAS

“One of the things I couldn’t have imagined, as I started going in to the Winds as a NOLS instructor in the late ’90s, was how the routes would have changed,” Wells told me recently. “And the emotional impact of seeing the glaciers move and melt.”

Wells has seen the toe of the Sourdough Glacier retreat 45 feet in 15 years, making it inaccessible. “There used to be ice and snow that bound up the talus, and that’s all gone now,” he said, making it harder to climb. It also impacts the time of day and year climbers can attempt the peak. “The window throughout the year is getting narrower, and then through the 24-hour cycle, you have to worry about rockfall during the day. You’re getting up at 1 or 2, climbing in the dark, getting down before a rockfall. There’s a lot more rockfall; it’s just a bowling alley.”

Safe mountain travel requires stable conditions and fair weather, but as the globe warms, that’s becoming harder to find. Glaciers are breaking up, permafrost is melting, and mush season is creeping into winter, rendering old approaches inaccessible and new places harder to explore.

As a culture, we’ve glorified first ascents—and the climbers who attempt them—in the Western U.S. since 1820, when geologist Edwin James first climbed Pikes Peak. The 2018 documentary Free Solo’s Oscar is the most recent sign of our obsession with untouched summits, even as we approach the downslope of accessibility.

A 2017 study from Portland State University found that Western glaciers and snowfields—perhaps “the clearest expression of climate change”—may have decreased by as much as 39 percent since the mid-20th century. This forces a question: As high mountains melt and change, do we need to stop thinking of first ascents, and start thinking about final ones instead? When do we need to give up on these places?

Glaciologist and climber Alison Criscitiello is now prioritizing what she calls “ice memories,” recording ice cores from mountains that might soon become inaccessible. She cites endless examples, like Mt. Logan, Canada’s highest peak,

where the climbing season is shortening and icefall conditions are changing. This is an urgent issue for both the climbing and glaciology worlds. “Many of these places that hold soon-to-be-lost climate archives are the same places that have drawn climbers for centuries and may too become unclimbable, or at least unrecognizable, in our lifetime or within a few generations,” she said.

“All the glaciers basically are receding,” Andrew Fountain, the PSU study’s lead author, told me recently. His group is mapping glacier change in the Rockies, Sierra Nevada, and Cascades to try to quantify just how much climate change is impacting glaciers and where they’re most sensitive.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture flies over the whole nation every five years, taking aerial photos. Digitized mountain photographs can then be used to compare the outlines of glaciers to historical records. The agency has photo records from some glaciers, including Washington’s Sahale, going back to 1900, after the end of the Little Ice Age. Fountain and his researchers looked at the records and learned that almost every glacier is receding, except for a few that are topographically protected. “The question isn’t whether or not they’re changing, it’s where they’re changing less,” Fountain said.

For mountaineers, that means they’re losing access to climbs like the visually stunning Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton, dealing with dangerous rockfall as permafrost melts, and trying to push summit attempts in narrow weather windows. Even the more accessible, frequently climbed routes are changing quickly.

By last August, Disappointment Cleaver on Mt. Rainier, the most popular route up to the top of the volcano, was a

tricky cheese grater of bridged crevasses and loose rock. Lowell Skoog, who pioneered skiing and climbing routes in the North Cascades, told me the period the mountains are climbable is shrinking, the swing between seasons has become more dramatic, and thinning glaciers now reduce access to many popular routes. Skoog doesn’t think we’ll lose our drive to explore,

“Many of these places that hold soon-to-be-lost climate archives are the same places that have drawn climbers for centuries and may too become unclimbable, or at least unrecognizable, in our lifetime or within a few generations.”

he said, but at some point the access gap will be so narrow that we won’t be able to slide through.

About the Author: Heather Hansman lives in Seattle, where she writes about water and the West. Her first book, Downriver, came out in 2019. Email High Country News at editor@hcn. org or submit a letter to the editor This story was originally published in High Country News (hcn.org) on May 13, 2019.

JULY 2019 23

CLASSICS For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS To contact the classics: Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org.

RALLY TO THE CLASSICS Mazamas is as strong as it is because of the fierce support of its members and volunteers.

This notice, then, will merely serve to direct your attention to the Classics. We need to work with a volunteer to put more content in our Bulletin column on a quarterly basis. In particular, we want to document past Classic events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. If you wanted an opportunity for finesse and creativity instead of the usual brute strength that keeps the wheels turning, this is it. Besides that, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11:00 am at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.

LEADING EVENTS IN AUGUST Those wanting to lead events need to reply to classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Our next meeting is Monday, July 22 at the MMC at 11:15 a.m. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month, 11 a.m.–12:30 p.m. at the MMC, in the library. Check the Bulletin or the website.

CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

SAT. JULY 6: DICK & JANE MILLER'S ANNUAL POTLUCK PICNIC You are invited! If you've never attended one of the picnics or have been before, plan to come this year and invite another Classic Mazama or significant other to share in potluck fashion: main dish, salad, or dessert. Lemonade and water will be provided. Also provided will be plates, cups, forks, knives and spoons. Plan to arrive at 12:30 p.m. and eat at 1 p.m. Dick and Jane are at 17745 SW Cooper Mountain Lane, Beaverton. See last month's issue for directions, or call Dick or Jane at 503-590-3598.

FRI. SEPT. 6: LODGE LUNCHEON Our Library & Historical Collections Manager, Mathew Brock, will be our speaker.

Tentatively he is scheduled to give a glass slide show of early Mazamas events. There is a suggested $5 donation. Lunch is at 11:30 a.m. We will likely arrange a carpool from the MMC to the Lodge. Look for details in next month's Bulletin.

FRI. DEC. 6: HOLIDAY LUNCHEON Mark your calendars now! Speaker TBD.

24 MAZAMAS

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Our members are part of a 125year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation. Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. ▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.

2019 Council Candidates Rick Amodeo Jesse Applegate Pam Bishop Darrin Gunkel Jorgen Rufner Amanda Ryan-Fear 2019 Nominating Committee Candidates Patrick Beeson Lynny Brown Freda Sherburne Barbara Weiss

e m o c l e W New Members!

NEW MEMBERS: 42 Jennifer Byrne—Mt. St Helens Erika Campbell—Mt. St Helens Shayn Campbell—Mt. St Helens Tish Campbell—Mt. St Helens Maria Carrasco Muñoz—Mt. St Helens Alex Chapman—South Sister Amie Chou—Mt. St Helens John Erich Christian—Mt. Baker Mircea 'Mitch' Cioara—Mount St. Helens Beckett Cohen—Mt. Hood Rachael Crane—Mt. St Helens Steve Daggett—Mt. Hood Roger Denlinger—Mt. Rainier Susan Dixon—Mt. St Helens Radana Dvorak—South Sister Travis Feracota—Mt. Hood Caroline Foster—Mt. St Helens Katharine Gerrish—Mt. Adams John Gilbert—Mt. St Helens Eli Goodwin—Mt. St Helens David Hand—Mt. St Helens Amy Kent—Mt. St Helens Erica Lewis—Mt. St Helens Valere Liljefelt—Mt. St Helens Thomas Lofton—Mt. Hood Forest Menke-Thielman—South Sister Dan Moeller—Mt. Hood Michael Nelson—Mt. Whitney Rick Norwood—Mount St. Helens Anne Penikis—Mt. St Helens Varma Penumetcha—Mt. St Helens Nhat Pham—Mt. St Helens Kristina Prosser—Mt. Adams Jorge Reyes—Mt. Adams Nathan Rogers—Mt. Hood Carmen Sanchez—Mt. St Helens Patrick Seals—Mt. Hood Trevor Smith—Mt. Adams Joanna Sullivan—Mt. St Helens Jeremy Viet—Mt. St Helens Molly Williams—Mt. St Helens James Wilson—South Sister

REINSTATEMENTS: 5

Darrin Class (1982), Andrew Holman (2014), Scott Isa (2016), Dennis Knable (2009), and Robert Page( 1978)

DECEASED: 0 Total Membership as of May 31: 3,459 (2019), 3,466 (2018)

SAYING GOODBYE DAVID WALLACE SCHERMER, FEBRUARY 18, 1950–MAY 3, 2019 David’s love of climbing mountains led him to join the Mazamas in 1978, where he became a climb leader in the early 1980s. In 1987 he joined Expedition Committee and tacked mountains in the U.S., South America, and the Himalayas. It was in the Mazamas that he met his first wife Pat Haythorn, whom he married in 1984.

Sadly, tragedy struck two years later when David and Pat fell while climbing Mt. Hood. Pat did not survive, but David was rescued and recovered from his injuries.

David enjoyed road biking, cross-country skiing, and hiking in his spare time.

ROY KINZIE, JUNE 15, 1922–JUNE 1, 2019 Roy Kinzie joined the Mazamas in 1963, and did so by hitting the ground running. Just two years later he was appointed by the Climbing Committee as the Mazama representative to the local Mountain Rescue and Safety Council.

From there it was on to that same committee for a three year stint, which included a year of coordinating Basic Climbing School. With the wind at his back, Roy moved on to serve on the Executive Council from 1969 to 1971.

He was the Membership Secretary for two of those years and Mazama vicepresident the final year.

And, oh yes, the climbing. Roy approached that with equal fervor. The same year he joined he knocked out the Guardian Peaks. The next year he had gotten up all the Oregon Cascades. In 1966, he was awarded the Sixteen Major Northwest Peaks Award. Fresh off that accomplishment, Roy, along with fellow Mazamas Jack Henry and Phil Griffin, signed up for an Africa expedition with the Iowa Mountaineers. In August of 1967, they successfully summited Mt. Kilimanjaro, and later hosted a Mazama Wednesday night program about the experience that was so popular it had to be moved to a bigger venue!

In 1970, Roy again went abroad, this time with a Mazama Alps Outing. In just few weeks this group climbed to the top of the Mittlehorn, the Jungfrau, the Matterhorn, and Mt. Blanc. Roy was the assistant leader on all these climbs.

Roy led a full, involved life that included distinguished military service during World War II. His training as a firefighter served him well during his long involvement with Oregon Mountain Rescue. He was also an avid antique gun collector.

He is survived by his wife Lola of a remarkable 76 years, as well as daughters Kathryn Klump and Rebecca Elton, and grandson Matthew Klump.

JULY 2019 25

Trips Down Memory Lane Contributors: Jonathan Barrett, Lindsey Garner, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel

A

s the Mazamas celebrates its 125th anniversary, we’ve reached out to some longstanding members to take a trip down memory lane and get their perspective on the history of the Mazamas, their fondest memories, and how things have changed over the years. We hope you will also take this time to happily reflect on your experience as a Mazama, and maybe the next generation(s) will be interviewing you for the 175th anniversary issue!

BILLIE GOODWIN

DEE MOLENAAR

MEMBER SINCE: 1996

HONORARY MEMBER SINCE: 2013

Do you have a story about your first climb?

I couldn’t have picked a better one—Mt. Hood. I climbed with a group of Mazamas. Slow going up. I enjoyed glissading down. I was disappointed I couldn’t see Portland. After that, I climbed St. Helens. It was windy. I also climbed South Sister. It was absolutely beautiful. We stayed on top for quite awhile. I’m more suited to hiking.

Honorary Mazama Dee Molenaar earned a Lifetime Achievement Award at the age of 98, after 77 years of active membership.

Dee was involved in the second ascent of Mt Saint Elias in 1946, joined an American attempt on K-2 in 1953, and led Senator Robert Kennedy on the first ascent of the Canadian Peak named for John F. Kennedy. His book, The Challenge of Rainier, is now in its eighth edition. He helped organize the national Mountain Rescue Association sixty years ago. He contributed art to the first edition of Freedom of the Hills and did a water cooler at 26,000 feet on K-2, which he figures qualifies him for the Guinness Book of World Records, once they add a “highest painted watercolor” category.

What do you enjoy most about being a Mazama?

All the different people. So many wonderful people. The friendships. I’m still active with the friends I’ve made.

Any particular event that stands out in your mind?

I’ve enjoyed the different committees and going places you wouldn’t normally go. So many activities. Continuing with the friendships Anything you want to say about how being a Mazama has changed your life?

It’s had a positive effect on so much of my life. I’ve gone to different places…after calling a few friends…Do you want to go to the North Cascades? A wonderful organization.

26 MAZAMAS

MARIANNA KEARNEY: A SERIES OF RECOLLECTIONS MEMBER SINCE: 1945

The following came via email from Marianna Kearney’s son, Alan, to me, Jonathan Barrett. He writes: “I got a lot of it from the journal she wrote about the Mazama 1945 Lake O’Hara Outing. She only remembered a few bits the other day, but the journal is her own words.”

ON JOINING THE MAZAMAS “I was looking for a hiking club to join, (late 1944 I think) and I went to the Mazama clubrooms in the Pacific Building, where I met Don Onthank. Onthank said: “You can’t join this club unless you climb a mountain.” I said: “I didn’t know anything about climbing.” He said: “Go on all the conditioning hikes, and climb Mt. Hood in June." (1945) “I climbed Mt. Hood in June, and then Saint Helens, Adams, and later South Sister in the fall.”

ON THE MAZAMA LAKE O’HARA OUTING 1945 “There were 50 members on the July outing, and Ella Bucknell and I took the train from Portland to Seattle, a boat to Victoria and Vancouver, and then a train again to Hector, BC. In Hector we started hiking the eight miles into Lake O’Hara. It was a hot hike and the mosquitoes were terrible. Horses carried most of our dunnage and food, but we still had packsacks full of personal stuff.

One man (E.S. Bradford) carried a suitcase the whole way.”

–once at the lake they did various hikes and climbs– “When we returned from hiking to Lake MacArthur Fred Hoerner said: “Porcupines chew everything inside the tents, including leather stuff, dunnage bags, packsacks, and shoes.”

“That night Ethan Meyer snored so loud, they made him move his tent to the other side of the lake.” “When it snowed or rained Ella Bucknell played her harmonica, and in the evenings there were plays and skits around the campfire."

more meadows in beautiful combinations of sun and shadow, all drenched in clear blue light of the high altitudes.”

“It was sure an exciting climb clambering up on knees and stomach thru rock chimneys, dodging showers of falling rocks, and then the grand test of going up THE chimney (a canyon 10 feet across between towering ledges so steep that only with ropes could you reach the summit 500 feet above). Twice I got my knees stuck in a crevice & had to tug to get them loose.”

“But—oh boy—almost better than the views was that swell dinner at the end of the trail—when our hungry and dusty— looking horde came tramping in at 7 p.m. with appetites that had been building up for a long time.”

ON THE MAZAMAS IMPACT ON HER LIFE After that first outing in 1945 Marianna continued to write journals with paintings and sketches in them from the many Mazama climbs and outings throughout the years. She was working as a commercial artist in Portland in the mid 1940s, and volunteered to illustrate many works for the Mazamas. She even wrote a poem from Lake O’Hara, which I think exemplifies why many of us go to the mountains:

“Yes Mazamas did love it, this outing of ours, In our memories will linger lakes, mountains, and flowers.

O’Hara, Opabin & Park, Odaray, Nothing ever can keep us from returning some day.”

And the Mazamas and climbing enabled her to meet her future husband.

“I would not have met Ty Kearney had I not been climbing Mt. Jefferson in 1946 with the Mazamas.” (Dad was climbing with his WWII buddy Ed Sorenson in a private party.)

–Wiwaxy Peak climb– “As we began the climb up to Wiwaxy Peak the whole Canadian rocky world was unrolled out below us—a spreading vista of mountains by the dozen, never so many peaks have I seen at one glance before, waterfalls, streams, meadows, lakes, and

JULY 2019 27

Memories, continued from previous page

KEITH DICKSON

RAY SHELDON

MEMBER SINCE: 1951

MEMBER SINCE: 1960

Keith joined the Mazamas 1951. His first time climbing with the Mazamas was on the south side of Mt. Hood, which turned out to be an eventful climb. After the team made the summit and were making their way back down past Crater Rock, Keith encountered an event he describes as one of the scariest he’s ever seen—a woman fell right past him and his fellow climbers after her protection failed. Several of Keith’s team members tried to grab her, but were unsuccessful. The woman fell 1,000 feet and sustained assorted injuries, but survived. In that moment, Keith wondered what he was doing up on a mountain where so many things can go wrong, but of course he kept climbing. His resolve was again tested when years later, Keith and a friend were caught in the Pearly Gates in warming temperatures and a large chunk of ice fell from one of the walls, causing Keith to fall. Luckily his rope and protection caught him, a fortunate contrast to the event years prior.

Keith has many fond memories of his time with the Mazamas alongside his wife Carol, another longtime Mazama. Carol joined the organization in 1980 and was climbing Mt. Hood with leader Dick Miller during the Mount St. Helens eruption! Both Keith and Carol have greatly enjoyed dancing with the Mazamas through the years—folk dancing, German dancing, doing various international dances, and performing. Their dancing took them to places such as the Mazama Lodge after skiing on weekends, around Portland, and further-reaching places such as Mt. Angel, White Salmon, Leavenworth, Washington, Seattle, and Spokane. Keith even remembers some dancers who performed at the Vancouver 1986 World’s Fair in British Columbia.

The couple have climbed Mt. Hood a handful of times together, as well as done climbs of South Sister and Middle Sister with the Mazamas, but their true enjoyment—especially in recent years— has been hiking and frequenting Mazama hikes and outings.

They’ve traveled to Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii, the North Cascades, the Oregon Coast, and the Great Smoky Mountains in North Carolina. Their love of hiking has taken them all over the Pacific Northwest and the world, from the Timberline Trail to the Down Under.

Keith’s history with the Mazamas is long. He went to high school with longtime Mazama Ray Sheldon, worked in the Pacific Building when the Mazama clubrooms were on the first floor, and is grateful to have been able to hike and climb alongside many Mazama old-timers through the years. Keith and Carol used to enjoy the Wednesday night programs regularly, and still try to as often as they are able. And they are happy that the dancing group they helped to build is still going strong, albeit with a younger generation of dancers.

Ray Sheldon joined the Mazamas in 1960 and has led over 200 Mazamas climbs spanning 55 years, culminating in last summer's lead up Plummer Peak.

His first climb with the Mazamas was Mount St. Helens in 1960 (when it was 1,300 feet higher), and he outfitted himself with clothes and gear bought from a local army surplus store. In 1962, he was on a Three-Fingered Jack climb and the leader told him he would be an assistant for the outing: he explains that back then, a leader would name you as assistant for a couple climbs, and if you didn’t mess up, you would then be a climb leader. Well, he didn’t mess up, and next year led his first official Mazama climb up ThreeFingered Jack and never looked back.

His climbs and stories could fill their own entire bulletin, but he describes one of his Mazama highlights as commissary family outings “back in the old days” in which the group brought huge tents out into the wilderness with a bunch of delicious food, and spouses and families came along and spent the day hiking and exploring the area. Back then, there were also no limits on group sizes, so he recalls that 40–60 people would come out for climbs up Mt Hood, and he and a couple others would lead groups of 20–30 up the mountain. In addition to permits and wilderness accessibility changes, he notes the increased leadership training requirements and expansion of classes, activities, and conservation and political engagement as some of the biggest changes he has noticed in the Mazamas during his tenure.

When asked what is his favorite climb he exclaims, “That’s like asking who is my favorite kid?” and he’s unable to answer. But when asked about his favorite part of being a Mazama, the answer comes quickly and easily: “The folks. So many friends, wow. And all the memories—you don’t think about it when you’re making them, but they are so special.”

28 MAZAMAS

CHRISTINE MACKERT

JOHN "JACK" GRAUER

MEMBER SINCE: 1970

MEMBER SINCE: 1947

Christine grew up in Southeast Idaho, where she gazed at the Teton Range through her parents’ front window. All through her childhood, the Grand Teton beckoned her to come and climb, but due to school and other obligations that filled too much of her time, Christine never had the chance.

But Christine’s dream to climb wasn’t over yet. After moving to Portland and noticing another mountain dominating the horizon—this time Mt. Hood—she happened to meet long-time Mazama Betty Parker, who introduced her to the organization and gave her the opportunity to realize her dream of climbing mountains.

Soon after, in 1970, Christine joined the Mazamas after a grueling experience climbing Mount St. Helens (before it erupted) in terrible weather and using equipment that wasn’t up for the task. Nevertheless, an awful climb slowly turned into a wonderful experience, as Christine, egged on by leader Jack Grauer, realized just how much she enjoyed being up high in the mountains. She joined Basic School, and later Intermediate School, before becoming a climb leader herself. However, she found she preferred helping climbers rather than leading them— this allowed for a more relaxed experience, where she could more fully enjoy the camaraderie with her fellow climbers and the breathtaking beauty that surrounded her. Christine instead took her leadership skills in a different direction, becoming the Mazamas’ second 5-time president (after Charles Sholes) between the years of 1981 and 2001.

To this day, Christine has fond memories of her time with the Mazamas. The organization brought her together with the best friends she’s ever had, and she finds peace and happiness in the absolute beauty of the mountains and in communing with nature. It’s this camaraderie with her fellow Mazamas, more than the accidents and deaths the organization has faced during her time, that stand out the most in her memory. She believes the Mazamas as an organization is unique in that its members come from all walks of life, but rather than causing discord, people come together over a common interest, and facets from other aspects of life simply don’t matter. All that matters is being together in the mountains.

Jack Grauer has been leading Mazamas in one way or another for more than 60 years. Between 1954 and 1994 he led 115 successful summits with the help of more than 70 assistants, including the likes of Christine Mackert and Ray Sheldon. An accurate count of the number of people he’s led singing “Auld Lang Sine” or “The Happy Wanderer” at Mazama events over the years would be tough to come by. BCEP graduates who got their first taste for rock at Horsethief Butte owe thanks to Jack, who pioneered it for rock practice.

Jack joined the Mazamas for the skiing program, but soon succumbed to “a raging case of ‘climbing fever’ that never did subside.” He led his first climb in 1954 on the Olympic peak Mt. Constance and went on to serving on the Climbing Committee and Executive Council six times. In 1958 when the second Mazama Lodge burned down, Jack led the charge to raise funds and rebuild in just one year. That earned him the Parker Cup. Jack received the Margaret Redman Cup in 1992 for his book Mt. Hood, A Complete History now in its eleventh edition. He has been an honorary member since 2013.

BECOME A LIFE MEMBER OF THE MAZAMAS Celebrate the Mazamas 125th by becoming a Life Member today! You can rid yourself of the worry of keeping your membership current AND show your long-term support of the Mazama mission. The life member rate is equal to 25 times the current annual membership rate of $72. For $1,800 you can lock in your Life Membership!

Interested? Contact Laura Burger at laura@ mazamas.org or 503-227-2345 and she will help you through the process. You can utilize a credit card over the phone, or mail a check to the MMC.

continued on next page JULY 2019 29

MAZAMA LIBRARY

Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country.

Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.

Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at mazamas.org/library

NEW RELEASES AND ADDITIONS Hangdog Days: Conflict, change, and the race for 5.15,

by Jeff Snoot, 2019. Hangdog Days vividly chronicles the era when rock climbing exploded in popularity, attracting a new generation of talented climbers eager to reach new heights via harder routes and faster ascents. This contentious, often entertaining period gave rise to sport climbing, climbing gyms, and competitive climbing—indelibly transforming the sport. Jeff Smoot was one of those brash young climbers, and here he traces the development of traditional climbing “rules,” enforced first through peer pressure, then later through intimidation and sabotage. In the late ’70s, several climbers began introducing new tactics including “hangdogging,” hanging on gear to practice moves, that the old guard considered cheating. As more climbers broke ranks with traditional style, the new gymnastic approach pushed the limits of climbing from 5.12 to 5.13. When French climber Jean-Baptiste Tribout ascended To Bolt or Not to Be, 5.14a, at Smith Rock in 1986, he cracked a barrier many people had considered impenetrable. Mazama Library 796.5 S7.

Day Hiking Southcentral Alaska: Anchorage Area, Kenai Peninsula, and Mat-Su Valley, by Lisa Maloney, 2019. The guide features 100 day hikes in the populous region around the Greater Anchorage area. Starting with the immense and accessible Chugach State Park, the guide includes hikes north of the city to include the Matanuska– Susitna Valley, Hatcher Pass areas, and trails near Eagle River, Palmer, and Wasilla. There are hikes along Cook Inlet and Turnagain Arm, including near Girdwood, Portage Glacier, and Whittier, as well as all the Kenai Peninsula— Chugach National Forest, Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, Kachemak Bay State Park and State Wilderness Park, Soldotna, Homer, and more.

Rock Climbing Anchors: A comprehensive guide (2nd Ed), by Topher Donahue and Craig Leubben, 2019. For this new edition of Rock Climbing Anchors, climber and writer Topher Donahue carefully reviewed each technique and lesson, making them even easier to understand and learn.

30 MAZAMAS

TREASURES FROM THE SPECIAL COLLECTION In Darkest Africa: The quest, rescue, and retreat of Emin, Governor of Equatoria, two volumes, by Sir Henry M. Stanley, 1890. Stanley’s own account of his last adventure on the African continent. At the turn of that century, the interior of the African continent was largely unknown to the American and European public. With the accounts of great explorers like Stanley, readers became thrilled by the stories of African expeditions and longed to follow in the footsteps of these explorers. In 1888, Stanley led an expedition to come to the aid of Mehmed Emin Pasha. Mazama Library Rare and Special Collection, 916.7.S78.

THE MAZAMA LIBRARY NEEDS SUPPORT—FROM YOU! Do you or someone you know have vintage mountaineering gear that is looking for a home? Don’t give it to Goodwill, donate it to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections! We are always on the lookout for wood handle ice axes, early climbing gear, vintage catalogs, turn of the century photographs, early mountaineering books, and more.

Please contact library manager Mathew Brock at mathew@ mazamas.org to discuss potential donations. We apologize, but we cannot accept any Mazama Annuals published after 1925 or National Geographic magazines.

Please consider a financial contribution to support the Mazama Library, a nationally recognized collection and one of the few remaining mountaineering libraries in the United States. Your financial donation will help support our full-time librarian, acquire rare mountaineering books and historic photographs, and maintain our valuable archives and historic objects collections. Thank you for your support.

BOOKS ON NORTHWEST OREGON HIKING ▶▶ 100 Hikes in Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington, Sullivan, 917.95 Su5nw ▶▶ Take a hike Portland: hikes within two hours of the city, Bond, 917.95.b46t ▶▶ Urban Trails, Boschetto, 917.95 B65p ▶▶ Curious Gorge, Cook, 917.95 C77c ▶▶ 60 Hikes within 60 Miles, 6th Ed, Gerald, 917.95 G35

DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ Mt. Elbrus, sometimes called the highest mountain in Europe at 18,481 feet, sits on the Georgia/Russian border. ▶▶ Mt. Fairweather, on the US/Canadian border, is the highest summit in the Glacier Bay area at 15,318 feet. It was named, perhaps in jest, by Captain Cook in 1778. ▶▶ Mt. Alberta, the only major Canadian Rocky Mountain named for a Canadian province, is 11,874 feet tall. It was first climbed by a Japanese team in 1925. ▶▶ Mt. Aspiring, a 9,958-foot peak in New Zealand’s Haast Range, is known as the “Matterhorn of the South.”

JULY 2019 31

MAZAMA LODGE Lodge Musings & Happenings

by Charles Barker, Mazama Lodge Manager SUMMER AVAILABILITY Mazama Lodge has plenty of space available July 1–6, 23–25, and 28. Please consider coming up to visit during one of these times and enjoy the lodge for the day or overnight. We will be serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner throughout the month of July and August.

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CONGRATULATIONS

LODGE CARETAKERS

Congratulations are in order for our members who recently got married at Mazama Lodge! Forrest Wells and Kelsey Mills tied the knot on May 18 and Tyler Green and Rachel Drake said their "I dos" on June 1.

A special thank you to Jennifer Brummett and Will Stevenson who have been the lodge caretakers for the past year. You will see them through the end of the summer, and then they they will move on to new adventures this winter.

LODGE RESERVATIONS The lodge reservation system is now accepting reservations through New Year's Eve 2019. We will be opening up the calendar through June 2020 by the end of July.

JULY 2019 33

The Life and Photos of Bill Hackett

by Brian Goldman

D

uring this Mazama quasquicentennial year, we feel it’s a time to reflect on the achievements of some of the more accomplished, perhaps audacious adventurers who were once members. Few would argue that Bill Hackett (19181999) fit that category. Two books in the Mazama library, Climb to Glory, by June Hackett and Ric Conrad, and Hackett’s Odyssey,

by Jack Grauer, chronicle his ambitious, daredevil life, filled with historic ascents. Hackett also left countless photographs of his mountaineering exploits, also in the Mazama collections.

According to these two biographies, Hackett grew up in Portland, Oregon, began climbing at age 14, and by the time he was 22 he had already made 50 ascents of Mt. Hood by 11 different routes, in addition to making the first ascent of the three-story rock chimney inside Timberline Lodge without a rope. In the Army in World War II, he served more than three years in the 10th Mountain Division, first as an instructor and then as a combat infantry unit commander in the Italian Apennines and the Julian Alps. He was promoted to First Lieutenant of Infantry and awarded the Combat Infantry Badge, two Bronze Stars and the Silver Star for gallantry in action. After World War II, he remained in the Army for 21 years, where among other duties, he served four years as a research and development field test officer for equipment and clothing. In that duty, he made many cold-weather ascents in Canada and Alaska, and his efforts helped in the improvement of various coldweather gear (e.g., streamlining the arctic uniform from 23 to 14 pounds.)

Bill Hackett was the first person to reach the summits of both Denali and Logan. He was the first American to climb Aconcagua and the first American to climb Mt. Kenya. He pioneered the Seven Summits dream and was the first person to reach the summits of five continents. In 1960, he organized and led an AmericanGerman expedition to K2 that reached 25,000 feet. In 1985, at age 67, he joined a Canadian-American expedition to

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Antarctica to climb Mt. Vinson and obtained a climbing permit for Mt. Everest in 1960 but due to several circumstances he did not summit these peaks.

In 1952, Capt. Hackett agreed to carry several nuclear plates to the Denali Pass to help Brad Washburn, who was on the 1947 Denali climb, conduct research on the effects of cosmic rays. The plates had a special coating that would record the effects as the rays hit the earth.

After an Air Force plane crashed east of Anchorage, Alaska, on November 22, 1952, killing all 52 people aboard, Hackett was part of a recovery team that climbed to search for survivors. Because of blizzard conditions and potential for an avalanche, it was December 9 before the team located the tail section. No survivors or additional wreckage were found in the vicinity.

In 1989, Major William D. Hackett, U.S. Army (retired) was inducted as an Honorary Member of the Mazamas.

But what was Hackett like in person and what made him tick? According to Dee Molenaar, a former mountain guide and park ranger who wrote the introduction to Climb to Glory, “Hackett’s hard-driving, militaristic attitude did not fare well with many of his civilian climbing companions. He saw himself as an extremely confident man, but was unaware that others perceived him as being somewhat of a stubborn recluse.

He could be strong, kind and trusting of friends, although he was rarely forgiving of past transgressions.” In addition, “Bill’s intense and introverted nature probably began during his traumatic childhood, after his mother abandoned him when he was only five years old; he spent much of his life trying to prove that he was worthy of recognition.”

The above cursory biography doesn’t do justice to this complex and accomplished mountaineer. If interested, please read the two biographies in the Mazama library for a more thorough overview of his life.

Equally fascinating are the hundreds of photographs and slides Bill Hackett left of his storied life, also available for your perusal in the Mazama Library.

The William Hackett Collection held by the Mazama Library and Historical

Collections contains manuscripts, photographs, and objects. His manuscript collection spans fifty years and contains correspondence, journals, and other materials related to his climbing and military career. The Hackett photograph collection spans from 1933 to 1988 and documents his climbing activities around the world. In 1991 Hackett gave the Mazamas a selection of gear and memorabilia he collected over the years.

Highlights include rocks from the summit of each mountain he climbed and the ice axe given to him by the President of Argentina. In total, the Hackett Collections contain over one hundred objects and six linear feet of manuscripts and photographs. The Hackett Collection is one of the larger collections held by the Mazama Library & Historical Collections.

Clockwise, from left: Bill Hackett (L), modeling new duofold underwear at basecamp on K2, 1960. Photo by Dave Bohn. Bill Hackett, on the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Feb. 10, 1950. Bill Hackett on radio, in Anchorage, Alaska prior to summitting Mt. McKinley, June 14, 1951.

Photo by Ward Wells.

JULY 2019 35

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. Hike leaders, to schedule a hike next month, go to: mazamas.org, login, and schedule.

UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED, ALL HIKES LISTED BELOW ARE AVAILABLE FOR SIGNUP ON OUR WEBSITE! HEAD ON OVER TO MAZAMAS.ORG/HIKING TO GET MORE DETAILS. FIND THE HIKE YOU WANT TO GO ON, CLICK ON THE LINK, AND FOLLOW THE SIGNUP PROMPTS.

HK A1 Tuesday, July 02 Lewis River Falls Flora Huber 503-658-5710 flobell17@ comcast.net. Three beautiful falls through the woods to viewpoints at each falls.

6.4 mi., 600 ft., Drive: 172, Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) at 9 a.m.

HK B2 Wednesday, July 03 Tumala Mountain & Sheepshead Rock Rex L Breunsbach 971-832-2556 rbreunsbach@ gmail.com. Visit an abandoned lookout site and an unique rock feature overlooking the Huckleberry Wilderness.

11 mi., 1,620 ft., Drive: 90, MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

HK B2 Saturday, July 06 Bugaboo Ridge Rex L Breunsbach 971-832-2556 rbreunsbach@gmail.com. This trail meanders through older Douglas-fir and Western Hemlock. As you gain elevation it meanders through older Noble fir. There are abundant wildflowers along rocky openings along the upper portions of the trail in early summer along with views of the Cascades. 8.6 mi., 1,800 ft., Drive: 120, Gateway Park & Ride at 8 a.m.

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 ft. elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 ft. elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ ft. elevation gain.

Class D: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contacting leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

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HK A1.5 Sunday, July 07 AYM: Lewis River Falls (dog friendly!) Heather Polonsky & Reena Clements. heather. polonsky@gmail.com, reenac@bu.edu.

Join us for a fun (DOG FRIENDLY) hike to Lewis River Falls! This out and back trail takes us through the Gifford Pinchot forest, past multiple waterfalls, until we get to Taitnapum Falls. We'll stop for lunch at the last fall of the hike, before turning around and heading back to the trailhead. For those who are interested, we'll finish up our day at a TBD brewery or winery en route back to Portland (nothing like a good post hike celebratory drink)! Pupticipants are welcome, but out of respect to other hikers we are limiting the number of doggos to 6. Please indicate when you register if you plan to bring your pup by emailing Heather.

All pup-ticipants must be well behaved and get along with other puppers. Any participant who attempts to bring a doggo who does not indicate to us by email that they will be bringing a dog will not be permitted on the hike. 8.5 mi., 450 ft., Drive: 172, Gateway Park & Ride at 8 a.m. AYM

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

Hike fees/Snowshoe/Nordic Costs: $2 for members, $4 nonmembers; Backpack Costs: Vary depending on trip.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry

HK B1.5 Monday, July 08 Twin Lakes/Palmateer Point Loop Hike David Christopher 503-317-5660 david.r.christopher@gmail.com. We will leave at 9:15 a.m. to hike up past the lower and upper twin lakes to enjoy lunch up on Palmateer Point with views of Mt. Hood. After lunch, we will descend down to the trail and continue the loop around to the PCT, where we will return to the trailhead.

We should be back at the trailhead by 3 p.m. Our goal is to enjoy our natural surroundings at a comfortable pace of 1.5–2 mph. I'll bring a Jetboil stove to heat water for lunch and I would be pleased to heat water for you for coffee, tea, or soup to have with your lunch. 10 mi., 1,850 ft., Drive: 116, Frog Lake Trailhead/SnoPark at 9 a.m.

HK A2 Tuesday, July 09 Larch Mountain Crater Don E. McCoy 503-246-7416 donald1020@aol.com.

We will start at the Larch Mountain Parking Lot and go down the Larch Mountain trail. We will take the Multnomah Spur to the Multnomah Creek Way Trail and follow it up to the Oneonta Trail. We will then follow the Oneonta Trail back up to Larch Mt Road and the parking lot. 6.4 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive: 58, MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage.–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver.

99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes, and

carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

MT. TABOR RAMBLES, WEDNESDAYS, 6 P.M. AT THE MMC Ramblers will leave from the front steps of the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 6 p.m. and walk as a group to the top of Mt. Tabor, where participants will have the option of walking around the paved circle for up to 30 minutes or taking a rest break as needed. In the past, when returning to the MMC some participants have chosen to stop for dinner/ refreshments at the food carts along Belmont. Suggested items to carry/ wear include a bright shirt/jacket, flashlight or headlamp, rain protection, comfortable shoes, and money for food and/or beverages.

HK A1 Tuesday, July 09 Mitchell Point Flora Huber 503-658-5710 flobell17@ comcast.net. Great views down the river, wildflowers. 2.4 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive: 110, Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) at 9 a.m.

HK 1 Tuesday, July 16 Dog River Trail Flora Huber 503-658-5710 flobell17@ comcast.net. This trail is on the east side of Mt. Hood. Spectacular views are found on the upper portion of the trail. Hike along Dog Creek off of Hwy 35. 10.6 mi., 1,880 ft., Drive: 80, Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) at 9 a.m.

HK B2 Wednesday, July 17 Serene Lake Loop Rex L Breunsbach 971-8322556 rbreunsbach@gmail.com. This hike includes four beautiful blue alpine lakes.

12.7 mi., 2,000 ft., Drive: 134, MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

HK A1 Friday, July 19 Mazama Trail to Wilderness Area Ray G Sheldon 360-5740221 rbshldn@pacifier.com. Ray Sheldon, one of the builders of the Mazama Trail, will lead this short but interesting hike with spectacular views of Mt. Hood & Mt. Adams. 2 mi., 1,000 ft., Drive: , at 9 a.m.

HK B2 Friday, July 19 Black Crater Trail David M Rempel 928-587-0511 crempel2@yahoo.com. Plan on arriving 10-15 minutes early (to organize and arrange carpooling) so we can leave on time. 8:00 a.m. (+/-) start hike at trailhead.

Bring your 10-essentials: also consider this time of year, sunscreen and insect repellent ( for mosquitoes & ticks). Plan

READY TO SIGNUP ONLINE?

Many hikes have limited spots available. Signup online today to secure your spot.

Are you a first time user? Go to mazamas.org/gettingstarted to learn how to create your account. It’s simple, and should take no more than 5 minutes to get up and running. Please review the information at mazamas.org/gettingstarted carefully before creating your account. If you still have questions after reading the information, email us at help@mazamas.org.

on lunch and a minimum of 3 liters of water consumption. NW Pass Forest Pass required. Black Crater is inside the Three Sisters Wilderness Area so we only have a maximum of 12 access passes. Sorry, no dogs. 7 mi., 2,440 ft., Drive: 166, Clackamas Town Center Max Park & Ride Garage at 4:30 a.m.

HK A1 Saturday, July 20 Mazama Trail Ray G Sheldon 360-574-0221 rbshldn@ pacifier.com. This is a short but fairly steep trail. We will be taking our time so that everyone can keep up. We are starting at the Trailhead. 2 mi., 1,000 ft., at 9 a.m.

HK B1.5 Sunday, July 21 Gnarl Ridge Matt Reeder 503-314-3266 mareede@ gmail.com. Gnarl Ridge on the east flank of Mt. Hood has one of the best views of the great mountain. Join AYM for a long but rewarding hike to this spectacular vantage point, high on the mountain.

We'll start at the Elk Meadows Trailhead and climb up to the meadows, before making our final push to the cliffs of Gnarl Ridge. We will stop at the ridge for lunch.

On the way back we can spend more time exploring Elk Meadows if there is interest. NW Forest Pass required for each vehicle. Please remember to bring the Ten Essentials, including at least 2 liters of water (3 liters is better). Sunscreen and sunglasses are a good idea, as it is very exposed on Gnarl Ridge. Wilderness area, hike is limited to 12 participants. No dogs.

11 mi., 2,500 ft., Drive: 126, Gateway Park & Ride at 8 a.m. AYM

HK B2 Sunday, August 04 Kings Mountain Ken Park 503-896-1336 kjpark96@gmail.com. Steep but well maintained trail with great view of coastal range from top. Hiking poles a must for hike down. 5 mi., 2,500 ft., Drive: 66, Target & SW 185th at 7 a.m. MeetUp HK C2.5 Saturday, August 10 Yocum Ridge with peak flowers Bill Stein 503-830-0817 billstein.rpcv@gmail. com. Epic adventurous hike to one of the most impressive backcountry flower experiences in Oregon. From Ramona Falls, we'll ascend a ramp-like trail to a stupendous viewpoint. Then we'll go as high as 7,200 ft. for an even closer view of Mt. Hood. We're meeting early and moving fast. Bring camera, hat, and sunscreen. 21 mi., 4,800 ft., Drive: 92, Gateway Park & Ride at 5 a.m. MeetUp HK C2 Saturday, August 10 Table Mountain Loop Ken Park 503-896-1336 kjpark96@gmail.com. Long grueling hike but great views from top. Last 2 miles most difficult part of hike. Please bring 3 liters of water. Hiking poles helpful for hike down. NW Forest Pass required to park. 10 mi., 3,650 ft., Drive: 84, Gateway Park & Ride at 7 a.m. MeetUp

JULY 2019 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting date is on Tuesday, July 16. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting by sending an email to adventure@mazamas.org and making a request.

by Laura Burger, Development Coordinator President Laura Pigion called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 4:05 p.m. on Tuesday, June 11. Laura Pigion noted the focus of the agenda will be around updating our status for nominating committee. Following approval of the agenda, Secretary Laura Guderyahn received approval for the May minutes.

Laura also noted that membership, as of the end of May, stands at 3,459. Treasurer Traci Manning gave an overview of the April financials. Total operating revenue was $879,749, with operating expenses of $1,113,131. Assets were $594,383. Both income and expenses are tracking under budget.

Marty Hanson from Nominating Committee presented six members as Executive Council candidates who have expressed interest and undergone interviews: Rick Amodeo, Amanda RyanFear, Pam Bishop, Jorgen Rufner, Darrin Gunkel, and Jesse Applegate. Candidates for Nominating Committee are Patrick Beeson, Freda Sherburne, Lynny Brown, and Barbara Weiss.

In her Acting Executive Director Report, Sarah Bradham gave a brief update on staffing and upcoming events. Erica Stock, Development Director, had her last day on June 1, and Renee Fitzpatrick, Finance & Admin Coordinator, will stay in her position in a limited capacity through June 30. Laura Burger, Development Coordinator, is managing the interview process for the Finance Coordinator. In future events, a weekend of activities for the Mazamas' 125th Anniversary is coming up on July 19–21, and a 125th Anniversary Open House at the MMC on July 28. The Portland Alpine Fest (PAF) Summit is Saturday, Nov. 16.

In internal reporting, Sarah will be attending a facilitated meeting to continue the work on the National Volunteer Training Standards (MQL) project. Sarah then provided a brief overview of the incident on Mt. Rainier’s Liberty Ridge.

The scheduling process for the upcoming

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year is underway, and the hope is that we can resolve conflicts using a new process without an in person meeting. To date, 213 climbs have been scheduled and 26 cancelled, and Mt. Hood climbs have had the most applications. Approximately 2,500 climb applications have been received for 2019 climbs. We intend to do a deep dive into the last two years of climb data at the conclusion of the main climb season to identify trends. More hikes are being scheduled for summer, and we are continuing to offer training and support for adding and managing hikes through the website. Adventure WILD begins on June 17. Day camp spots are at the capacity, and only eight spots remain for overnight campers. Youth Outreach continues to host climbs and strengthen our partnership with PDX Climbers of Color.

For upcoming events, the Mazama125 challenge is underway and we are prepping activity leaders for activities during our Anniversary Weekend of July 19–21.

Mathew Brock is leading planning for the Celebration event on July 28. The Mazama Library is collaborating with Oregon Historical Society to produce a lantern slide show. PAF planning is mostly on track and we have confirmed a keynote speaker and venue. Sarah and Kelsey will meet and reach out to potential partners at the summer Outdoor Retailer show from June 18–20 in Denver, Colo.

Sarah provided a brief update on fundraising and membership. We are launching a small campaign for the Lodge ski hill lights and continue to find partners for the Anniversary Block Party. We are still on track to reach our 2019 membership goals. There was brief discussion of prorating membership, which can be done annually by the current Executive Council.

Sarah noted this might be something to consider, and would review the potential implications.

Vice President Marty Scott gave an update on the Executive Director transition planning. The transition team has worked

with the consultant with the Valtas Group to finalize plans for the interview process.

As of June 11, the consultant had received 55 inquiries and scheduled or completed 15 initial interviews. The consultant will continue to contact potential candidates, complete interviews, and compile cover letters and resumes for a short list of high potential candidates. The transition team will have a meeting on June 20 to review high potential candidates.

Sarah Bradham gave a brief update on the Memorandum of Understanding between Mazamas and the Mazamas Foundation. At a meeting on June 3, she, Traci Manning, and Laura Pigion met with four members of the Foundation Board and reviewed the past six year history between the Mazamas and the Mazamas Foundation. These two groups are working together to identify the funding needs from the Foundation for our 2020 fiscal year.

Treasurer Traci Manning gave an update on the roles and responsibilities project. There is a rough draft of a template for staff and committee volunteers to fill out in order to provide clarity regarding who is doing which tasks and who has which responsibilities. At least one staff and one EC member will attend a meeting for each committee to fill out the form and discuss how each committee relates to the Mazamas overall.

The goal is to complete these meetings with the highest priority committees (with a large impact on budget and/or the organization) by the end of July.

During the member comment period, Marty Hanson chose to speak. He noted that due to climate change glaciated peaks are rapidly losing their glaciers, and that has major implications for our membership requirement in the bylaws.

The Executive Council will add this topic of discussion to their next meeting, on Tuesday, July 16 at 4 p.m.

We are the bond stronger than any rope.

Everything we make is designed by climbers, for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak and crag to give you absolute protection, comfort and mobility when you really need it.

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Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon

PORTLAND ALPINE FEST

Nov. 11–17, 2019

Ticket Sales Open: August 1 Mark your calendar now!

The Summit, Nov. 16 at the Redd (SE Portland) Speaker: Legendary climber (to be announced July 1)

Presented by Grivel. Hosted by the Mazamas. portlandalpinefest.org