2019 August Mazama Magazine

Top: Mazamas celebrating with watermelon on top of French’s Dome in the shadow of Mt Hood! Left to right: Andrew Leaf, Patrick Seals, Kevin Swearengin, Nicole Seals, and Lynne Pedersen. Photo: Karen Graves. Left: Mountain goat with the North Cascades in the background. Sahale Peak, Anniversary climb. Photo: Roberta Zouain.

Left: Kristi Riedel, Clint Carpenter, and Rebecca Ross on the summit of Mt. Olympus during a Mazamas 125th anniversary climb led by Gary Bishop and assisted by Nick Ostini. Photo: Kristi Riedel.

Cover: The clouds rolled in as the team gets ready to roll out. Summit of Mt. Olympus on day 3 of a 4 day Mazama 125th Anniversary climb. Back row: Gary Bishop, leader; Nick Ostini (standing), assistant. Middle: Gavin Boggs, Clint Carpenter, Jeremiah Biddle, Scott Templeton. Front: Kristi Riedel, Rebecca Ross (holding sign) Photo: Boy Scout Troop Leader from Bremerton

FEATURES

CONTACT US

Mazamas 125, p. 6 Leadership & Education Resources, p. 9 The Climb, p. 10 Choose Your Own Adventure: Education, p. 12 Mazama Classics Summer Picnic, p. 18 Mazama Youth Programs, p. 20 What a Difference a Year Makes: ICS, p. 24 Should You Take WFR?, p. 27 Choquequirao: The Other Incan Citadel, p. 41

MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 am.–7 pm.; Fri. 10 am.–2 pm.

MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028; Phone: 503-272-9214 Hours: Thu. Noon–Sun. Noon

SARAH BRADHAM Acting Executive Director sarah@mazamas.org

MONTHLY CONTENT Upcoming Activities, p. 4 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Successful Climbers, p. 14 Saying Goodbye, p. 16 Mazama Lodge, p. 32 Classics, p. 23 Membership Report, p. 29

Mazama Library, p. 30 Voter Pamphlet, p. 32 AYM, p. 36 Outings, p. 37 Trail Trips, p.38 Executive Council, p. 46

MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org

MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@ mazamas.org

LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@ mazamas.org

KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org

CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facillities@mazamas.org

ADVERTISER INDEX Davis Financial, p. 10 Embark Exploration, p. 37 Green Trails Maps, p. 47 Mountain Shop, p. 48

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Next Adventure, p. 23 Vaqas Malik Photography, p. 4 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Above: Ania Wiktorowicz leading on the knife edge ridge on Eldorado Peak in the North Cascades, Washington. Photo: Vaqas Malik.

PUBLICATIONS TEAM Editor: Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Lindsey Garner, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Ali Gray, and Katie Polanshek (publications@mazamas.org)

AUGUST 2019 3

UPCOMING ACTIVITIES & EVENTS INTERMEDIATE CLIMBING SCHOOL (ICS) Application Closes August 5 for the 2019–20 course.

Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) is an intensive, challenging, fun, and rewarding experience. At no other point in your climbing career are you likely to see your climbing skills advance more dramatically within a single, relatively short span of time. You will learn a lot! We pick up where BCEP left off and take you to the next level where you will learn the skills necessary to be a strong assistant on advanced Mazama climbs, organize private climbs of your own, and for those who choose, take the next step into Climb Leader Development. You will also acquire the skills you’ll need to go out and gain the climbing experience necessary for entry into the advanced Mazama programs. The curriculum will include additional knots, additional belay and rappel techniques, glacier travel, rock and snow anchor building, map and compass navigation, avalanche danger assessment, avalanche transceiver training, accident management training, crevasse rescue, snow camping, high angle snow climbing, 5th class rock climbing, and seconding/cleaning 5th class trad. Get all the details at mazamas.org/ics.

MAZAMAS ANNUAL MEETING October 7, 6–9 p.m.

Each year, on the first Monday in October, the Mazamas holds its annual meeting. This is an opportunity for members to come together to hear about what the Mazamas has accomplished in the past year, where it is going in the future, as well as to hear the outcome of the election. Dinner is provided; please make sure to sign up so we can get an adequate food count!

Register at tinyurl.com/MazAnnual2019.

PORTLAND ALPINE FEST Nov. 11–17 Presented by Grivel and hosted by the Mazamas, the Portland Alpine Fest (PAF) returns for its 7th year! This year is going to be BIG and we can't wait to share all of the details with you. A week filled with clinics, speakers, gear, climbing, food, and friends— what could be better? Mark you calendars now so that you don't miss out:

PPThe Summit, Nov. 16 at The Redd in SE Portland PPPortland Ice Comp, Nov. 15 at Planet Granite PPClinics, Nov. 12–17 PPEvening Speaker Series/Movies, Nov. 11–14 TICKETS GO ON SALE ON WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 4 AT 9 A.M. AT PORTLANDALPINEFEST.ORG

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FEATURED EVENT

ROUND THE MOUNTAIN Aug. 30–Sept. 2 Each year, the Mazamas celebrate their love of Mt. Hood with a 3-day hike around the Timberline Trail.

Join us, as we set out from our base camp at Mazama Lodge each day for a 13 to 14-mile adventure. We carry only day packs, because each night we return to the lodge for great food, hot showers, a cozy bunk, and stories from your day on the trail.

Your adventure includes all meals and dorm lodging. Shuttle vans will transport you from our meeting place in Portland to Mazama Lodge, as well as to/from the trailhead each day.

Get details and sign up at mazamas.org/rtm.

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES JOIN THE PORTLAND ALPINE FEST TEAM Held in mid-November, the Portland Alpine Fest is the biggest event the Mazamas puts on each year! Help us create another sold-out event by joining our team. We are looking for dedicated individuals who want to commit to helping with clinics, evening events, and marketing. Email paf@mazamas.org if you are interested.

PRESENTERS NEEDED FOR WEDNESDAY EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS The Mazamas Wednesday Evening Travel Programs will return this fall with another six months of exciting travel programs mid-October to mid-April. The Programs Committee is looking for ideas and presenters for the 2019/2020 season. Do you have a photo-heavy adventure you’d like to share with our Wednesday evening audience? Whether you climb, hike, cycle or paddle in the US, or the remote corners of the Earth; whether you are an athlete or simply an intrepid world traveler, the Mazamas Programs Committee would like to hear from you. Contact Programs chair John Leary at leary.j@comcast.net or Lacy Turner at lacywriter@msn.com.

OFFICE VOLUNTEERS Are you looking for a fun and interactive way to get to know the Mazama community and programming better? Do you find yourself with free time during the week? Office volunteers support staff with everything from answering phones and emails to organizing supplies and helping to manage our database. At the Mazama Mountaineering Center, office volunteers are often the first face and voice that members and non-members interact with, so if you are a friendly person who’s looking to share your inspiration to love and protect the mountains, we want you!

Apply at tinyurl.com/mmcofficevolunteer.

BECOME A LIFE MEMBER OF THE MAZAMAS Celebrate the Mazamas 125th by becoming a Life Member today! You can rid yourself of the worry of keeping your membership current AND show your long-term support of the Mazama mission. The life member rate is equal to 25 times the current annual membership rate of $72. For $1,800 you can lock in your Life Membership!

Interested? Contact Laura Burger at laura@mazamas.org or 503-227-2345 and she will help you through the process.

You can utilize a credit card over the phone, or mail a check to the MMC.

NORDIC COMMITTEE LOOKING FOR VOLUNTEERS It’s August, so for the Nordic Committee it must be time to think about snow! Nordic ski classes return in January 2020.

Between now and then we need to recruit instructors, including replacing several of our veterans who will not be returning next year. We need to market our classes and register students eager to learn a variety of techniques for the most efficient method of getting from here to there through the quiet of winter forests.

We need to match students and instructors for the best mix of classes we can deliver. Then we get to launch skiers onto the snow in January.

You can help! We have openings for additional committee members. No ski experience is necessary; we invite your enthusiasm for the Mazamas and a willingness to help put on our school. Our activity is seasonal and our workload is as well: busy getting ready in the fall, launching the school in the winter, evaluating in the spring. Much of this can happen at a pub as well as at the MMC! If you are interested in helping put on our school, please contact us at nordic@mazamas.org.

SALESFORCE ASSISTANCE Do you have experience using Salesforce? We could use your help! The Mazamas has a Salesforce database and is looking for assistance in building custom reports and actions. Email volunteer@mazamas.org if you are interested in helping.

PUBLICATIONS TEAM The Bulletin is enjoyable to read, but it is even better to be a part of the team that makes it happen each month! We are looking for editors, writers, and lovers of grammar to join our team.

Inquire at publications@mazamas.org.

LIBRARY ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks. Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests. Volunteers should have an interest in mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices helps, but is not required. Please contact Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager, at mathew@mazamas.org to learn more.

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Top, left: Descending Whale Creek in celebration of the 125th anniversary, from left: Kevin Clark, Kim Ko, Keith Campbell, Laura Guderyahn, Wade Hewitt, and Laura Pigion. Photo: Laura Pigion

Bottom, left: Baby goats descending from Sahale Glacier.

Photo: Roberta Zouain.

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MAZAMAS CELEBRATE 125!

Mazamas Celebrating our 125th Anniversary in true Mazama style—out in the mountains! There were mountains summitted, trails hiked, canyons descended, new areas explored, old haunts revisited, all in the spirit of following our mission "everyone loving and protecting the mountains."

Here's to another 125 years of mountain exploration, education, and conservation in the company of others who bring our adventurous souls to life. Nesika Klatawa Sahale!

Above: Climb team on Inspiration Glacier. From left to right: Ankush Varma, Brinda Ganesh, Jack Wiktorowicz, Susan Jeltsch, Margaret McCarthy, Ania Wiktorowicz. Photo: Vaqas Malik.

Right: Playing with summit blocks. Using pieces of the top of Mt. Olympus to celebrate 125 years of the Mazamas. Photo: Nick Ostini.

AUGUST 2019 7

Anniversary, continued from previous page Above: Waving the Mazama banner high in honor of the Mazamas 125th Anniversary following a summit of Three-Fingered Jack! Top back row, left to right: Michael Schoenheit, Pete Bozman, Greg Scott (with banner), Teresa Dalsager. Middle row left to right: Calvin Strahorn-Brown, Hannah Wentz, Roberta Zouain. Front row: Kathryn Peterson. Photo: Matt Bell. Right: Matt Gantz (front) and Tracie Weitzman (top) climbing the summit block of Sahale Mountain. Photo: Roberta Zouain

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Leadership and Education Resources Available In the Mazama Library

E

ven if you’re a born educator or natural leader, both callings are complex enough that even the best can benefit from regular skill reviews and continuing education. The Mazama Library Leadership and Education section brings together a wide range of references to help keep your talents top-notch.

Whether you need ideas for a class, plan to lead an expedition, or even just want to become a more wellrounded team member, the following guides can help.

Outdoor Leadership: technique, common sense & self confidence, by John Graham, 1997. Globe trotting diplomat and lifelong Pacific Northwest outdoorsman John Graham shares insights into the how and why of effective leadership. Chapters cover concrete skills like effective communication, conflict resolution, and decision making, but also examine more philosophical issues like caring leadership, taking responsibility, and courage. Sidebars from luminaries including Lou Whitaker and Royal Robbins illustrate Graham’s points. Call Number: 374.014 G76 Rock Climbing: the AMGA single pitch manual, by Bob Gaines, 2014. The textbook designed for participants in the American Mountain Guide Association’s Single Pitch Instructor program. The audience is professional climbing instructors, but non-pros will gain insights into both technique and the art of teaching. Plenty of photographs detail the theory and practice of everything from basic knots to advanced anchors. Call Number: 374.014 G12 c.4 Effective Leadership in Adventure Programming, by Simon Priest and Michael Gass, 2018. “Adventure programming” can take many shapes: climbing and hiking, education, wilderness therapy, and more. Priest and Gass approach, with an academic eye for detail, topics ranging from trip planning and group facilitation to environmental skills and instructional techniques. They include chapters on “metaskills” that effective leaders use to tie it all together, such as experience based judgment and professional ethics. Call Number: 374.014 P93 AMC Guide to Outdoor Leadership, by Alex Kosseff, 2010. Guide, environmental educator, and Outward Bound instructor, Alex Kousseff places emphasis on leadership skills needed for leading children in the

outdoors; the book includes a specific chapter on leading and motivating youth.

Nonetheless the book proves valuable for leaders of any age and level. Ample anecdotes and case studies from other seasoned instructors highlight concepts. Call Number: 374.014 K84 2nd c.3 Outdoor Recreation Safety, by Neil J. Dougherty IV, 1998. This anthology compiles the experience and know-how of nearly 20 experts in a huge range of adventure experiences. Part I deals with principles, including legal issues, of outdoor safety and risk management. Part II delves into specific activities. Handy checklists help users track extensive safety guidelines for all manner of recreation: hiking and camping, climbing, boating, diving, and mountain biking, to name a few. Call Number: 374.014 D73 The Mountain Guide Manual, by Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo, 2017. Written by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA) certified mountain guides Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo, The Mountain Guide Manual is a go-to reference for beginning or experienced mountain guides, as well as advanced recreationalists. Covering everything from rope systems and belaying to advice on group dynamics and rescuing, the manual combines how-to instruction with plenty of graphics and some beautiful alpine imagery.

Call Number: 374.014 C39 c.3 AMC's Mountain Skills Manual: the essential hiking and backpacking guide,

by Christian A. Bisson and Jamie Hammon, 2017. No matter how many hikes or climbs you’ve led, it never hurts to keep a fine edge on your skills. The AMC’s Mountain Skills Manual is a perfect reference for leaders who want to keep updated on the latest best practices for wilderness activity. The book is dense with handy but concise advice. Bisson

and Hannon cover pretty much everything from how to lift a heavy pack to drying your socks in the field, from navigation to building a snow shelter. Call number: 796.52 B54 NOLS course teachers’ guides • Rock Climbing Educator Notebook,

by Jim Margolis and Helen Wilson, eds.

2017. Call Number 374.014 A2 • Mountaineering Educator Notebook,

by David Anderson, 2016. Call Number374.014 M33 • Wilderness Educator Notebook, by John Gookin and Adam Swisher, 2015. Call Number: 374.014 G59 Advanced leaders can reach a level of competence so high they may simply not remember how to cover all the bases effectively. Whether you’re teaching or assisting a Mazama class, or leading a climb or hike, getting notes designed for NOLS educators can help make up for this “unconscious competence.” The educator notebooks present class outlines and learning objectives for practice and field instruction in a no-nonsense, clear format that you’d expect of a teacher’s manual.

Risk Management for Outdoor Leaders, A practical guide for managing risk through leadership, Drew Leemon and Todd Schimelphenig, 2005. According to the authors, the best way to manage risk in the outdoors is to manage the “human factor.”

To that end, chapters cover the critical elements of leadership, teamwork, and communication. Attitude, sound judgment techniques, and field application of these concepts are also covered. Call Number: 374.014 L51

AUGUST 2019 9

The

by Ron Gayer

G

Climb

etting up in the middle of the night, in the deepest part of a normal sleep cycle is a major pain. It doesn’t matter whether it’s in my own bed or in a tent. It sucks and is an absolutely awful way to begin a climb. Unfortunately it comes with the territory, the climb.

I awake with the tiny beeps from my Casio watch alarm.

Not a lot of noise but just enough to make me feel as if one of those horrible C-movie monsters has just landed on my chest. My heart is racing; my first thought is to quickly figure out a plausible rationalization for bailing on this day. Quick check of arms, legs, etc. Damn, everything seems to be in pretty good working order and being too old for this sort of undertaking has never gotten me off the hook for anything.

Not yet at least.

I dress in layers, wishing I was smarter about what to wear on any given day so that I wouldn’t have to wear and/ or haul along superfluous clothing and, for that matter, gear, food and anything else that I won’t actually use this day.

you said ‘tampons.’” (This is supposed to be something that actually happened, but you know how these “legends” begin and get endless repeated—like now.)

And the climb begins. The pre-morning darkness is quickly giving way to what looks like a beautiful dawn. I’m glad that I took off a layer. A polypro shirt under my parka is more than adequate once our party begins the long upward march. Not long into the climb dawn breaks, not only as a horizontal slash of reddish orange across the eastern portion of the sky, but as a magnificent array of pinks on mountains in the distance. It seems a perfect day for a climb. My earlymorning crabbiness has totally dissipated. Good snow, good temperature a light breeze and a clear, beautiful vista. But we’re on a mountain. Things change.

A couple of hours into the climb it’s still a beautiful day but the gentle breeze we enjoyed early on has given way to a pretty stiff wind. During a short break, our leader reminds everyone to stay well-hydrated and informs us that we will continue to ascend at relatively slow pace but that we won’t be stopping very often or for very long. In this wind it won’t very long to go from comfortable to cold, so slow and steady is the plan.

Higher up the wind is gusting in bursts that sporadically stops each of us in our tracks lest we get toppled over while challenging this force of nature. We continue upward in fitful, thankfully brief, stops and starts. The wind is carrying with it particles of snow and ice that blasts exposed skin and occasionally finds its way under goggles and wrap-around sunglasses and into the eyes. But we're on a mountain and each of us knows that a) this is pretty much par for the course and, b) quite often this type of wind will be present at one level of the mountain and not at another. We all hope it won’t be at the higher, more difficult elevations.

We’ve all put on our crampons. The snow is as deep as I’ve ever had to deal with on this mountain, but it's not icy, just soft—requiring a lot of high stepping from one hole to another. We are following in the tracks of someone who broke

We are following in the tracks of someone who broke the trail for us earlier. The early bird gets the work.

Well, it’s still not a piece of cake, the further back you are the deeper the hole you’re stepping into, and out of.

I gather with the other climbers. It is, pretty much as usual for this sort of endeavor, a fairly convivial lot. There’s not too much socializing, hell we’re all still half asleep, but a few old acquaintances are briefly renewed, people are ducking in and out of the picture, going to the bathroom, going to pick up or jettison gear, who knows, some may be making last minute deals with a higher power for a safe climb.

Our climb leader gathers us together, gives last minute instructions, introduces the assistant leader and has everyone introduce himself or herself. And we’re off. With very little in the way of micro-management. The leader knows all of us, either personally or by our “climbing resumes.”

We should, everyone of us, know enough about what we’re getting into that none of us finds ourselves in a position of being high on the mountain saying, “Crampons? I thought 10 MAZAMAS

the trail for us earlier. The early bird gets the work. Well, it’s still not a piece of cake, the further back you are the deeper the hole you’re stepping into, and out of.

We are on the summit approach, the wind has abated somewhat but we‘ve traded one difficulty for a couple of others—a much steeper incline and, of course, a higher altitude. The legs are feeling the extra effort from thousands of vertical feet of snow-plowing and constantly compensating or lurching back into balance when the soft snow gives way beneath one’s boots. One of our team is taking it very slow, I’m assisting on this climb so I’m behind her. The other members of the team have proceeded up and around some icy pillars, they are out of sight. The two of us move steadily but slowly. She apologizes for her pace, I assure her that it’s fine with me. I know she has gone through a very serious illness and here she is doing this, summiting a mountain. I am proud to be part of her victory.

The two of us keep going in tandem. We feel like we’re alone on the mountain because a cloud has settled on us and visibility has dropped from infinite to maybe 40 feet in a matter of moments.

Someone from our team hollers out to us. They are waiting for us at the summit but figure if the lack of visibility has caused us to turn around they ought to scamper down themselves. We holler back. They stay put. Several minutes later I see something that I mistake for a couple of backpacks. I say to my partner, “Look, signs of civilization.” Several minutes more and the “backpacks” become the other members of our team, hunkered down out of the wind.

They congratulate us. Other than our leader the rest of the team don’t know what a personal triumph they’ve seen in the lady I’ve been following.

A minute on the top and we’re out of there—couldn’t see a damn thing anyway. The previous time I was on this summit it was all ice and clear as a bell; this day it was all snow and cloudy. A very different climbing experience.

We proceed down awkwardly, the snow was of a consistency that made it ball up in the crampons with each step, and the snow-on-snow contact does not make for an over abundance of confidence on this steep descent. Yet with a lot of boot whacking and only a minimum amount of ass plants we all made it down to the summit base, to a place where we could pack away our crampons and plunge-step the rest of our way down.

At this time, as is the case on most mountains, at least the ones I’ve been on, the climb was over. Depending on the mountain the hike out is a either a long beautiful painful slog or a long boring painful slog. The route we took on this mountain was the latter -- long and boring. Add bad knees and you’ve got long, boring and painful. But the good news is that we accomplished our goal. Or, as our leader is fond of saying, “We won!”

By the way, our leader was Terry Cone. I submit this in his memory. Terry was truly one of a kind.

Author Bio: After three decades of running marathons and ultras a Ron Gayer met a fellow on a Hood to Coast team who invited him to climb Mt. Hood. With all of the endurance work he had under his belt he figured “How hard could it be?” Hard! Next stop, Mazama training classes and a bunch of memorable Mazama climbs.

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*currently 12 MAZAMAS in development

*Currently in Development

Design by Ali Gray AUGUST 2019 13

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS April 27—Lane Peak, The Zipper. Tyler Bax, Leader. Howie Davis, Assistant. Carmel Adrian, Milton Diaz, Sara Jensen, Ian McCluskey.

April 29—Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Richard Bronder, Leader. Duncan Hart, Assistant. Mircea aka Mitch Cioara, Michael Dahlin, Ben Dair Rothfuss, Karl Grenehammar, Elissaveta (Lisa) Kostova, Christian Kruse, Bill Resley, jOaN WaLLace.

May 1—Mt. Hood, Sandy Glacier Headwall. Wim Aarts, Leader. Eric Brainich.

Assistant. Rob Parker, Chaitanya Sathe.

May 1—Mt. Hood, South Side. Michael Hortsch, Leader. Antonio Luis Tatum, Assistant.

Dylan Hallman, Christian Kruse, Alexander Laing, Becky Landeros, Matthew Schifberg, Ngan Vo, Benjamin Zonana.

May 3—Mt. Hood, Sunshine. Michael Levis, Leader. Brinda Ganesh, Assistant. Sara Jensen, Nimesh Patel, Chris Reigeluth, Rebecca Ross, Ankush Varma.

May 3—Mt. Rainier, Gibralter Ledge. Rico Micallef, Leader. Yev Krasnitskiy, Assistant. Tyler Creelan, Julie Kentosh, Prasanna Narendran.

May 3—Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Steve Warner, Leader. Carl Lucas, Assistant. Sue Dimin, Susan Dixon, Zack Hartman, Michael Matney, Forest Menke-Thielman, Nhat Pham, Dawn Van Seggen.

May 4—Mt. Hood, South Side. Shane Harlson, Leader. Jonathan Sarko, Assistant.

Milton Diaz, Kyle Hayslip, Ian McCluskey, Amrish Menjoge, Stephanie Nelson, Laetitia Pascal, Surej Ravikumar, Silja Tobin.

May 6—Mt. Hood, South Side. John Godino, Leader. Duncan Hart, Assistant. Kevin Green, Paul Kallmann, Mary Martel, Ian McCluskey, Yuko Ohnuma-Oyler, rebecca roberts, Andy Sorensen, Laura Supalla, Jacqueline Viet, John Viet.

May 8—Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Bob Breivogel, Leader. John Maroney, Assistant. Eric Cross, Maheesha De Silva, Bill Lowder, Sumedh Naik, Jacob Powell.

May 11—Mt. Hood, South Side. Joe Eberhardt, Leader. Pushkar Dixit, Darren Ferris, Assistants. Asa Christiana, Mitch Cioara, Rachel Kenner, Shawn Kenner, Jeffrey Leadford, Deziree Perea, Nicole Seals, Patrick Seals.

May 11—Mt. Rainier, Ingraham Direct. Lynne Pedersen, Leader. Andrew Leaf, Assistant. Duncan Hart, Joe Kaufman, John Lombard, Jonathan Myers, David Roche, Roger Sharp.

May 12—Mt. Hood, South Side. Marc Milobinski, Leader. Jessica Minifie, Assistant. Ann Marie Caplan, Seth Dietz, Andrés Malavasi, Joseph York.

May 14—Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Alex Lockard, Leader. Teresa Redman, Assistant. Marynes Cabrera, Taylor Courier, Ritchie Farmer, Rick Norwood, Nachiket Rajderkar, Juan Rodriguez, Michael Stenger, Brett Taute, Jen Travers, Maggie Woodward.

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May 22—Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Karen Graves, Leader. Duncan Hart, Assistant. Erika Campbell, Tish Campbell, Rachel Kenner, Nicole Seals, Alden Wilson.

June 8—Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Howard Buck, Assistant. Seth Dietz, Kyle Mangione, Jacob Powell, Matthew Schifberg, Adriana Vintila, Hannah Wentz.

May 30—Mt. Hood, South Side. Steve Warner, Leader. Carl Lucas, Assistant. Sue Dimin, Zack Hartman, Forest Menke-Thielman, Bill Resley, Daksha Sharma, Rohan Sharma.

June 8—South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Tim Scott, Leader. Roberta Zouain, Assistant. Aardra Athalye, Walter Blomberg, Shiva Kiran, Tiffany McClean, Thomas Williams.

May 31—Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Teresa Redman, Leader. Duncan Hart, Assistant. Andrew Behr, George Callaway IV, Darrin Funk, Gautam Ghare, Joe Kaufman, Nicole Seals, Brett Taute, Marie Vaneaton.

June 9—Castle/Pinnacle, Standard/East Ridge. Guy Wettstein, Leader. Scott Osbron, Assistant. Derek Jahelka, Rosemary Prescott, Scott Schmitz.

May 31—Mt. Hood, South Side. Tim Scott, Leader. Kevin Kohberger, Assistant. Urusa Alaan, Matthew Bone, Rick Mossman, Michael Moy, Jacob Powell, Michael Valentine, Astrid Zervas, Roberta Zouain.

May 31—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Gary Bishop, Leader. Scott Templeton, Assistant. Andrew Bray, Melissa Crest, Rael Dornfest, Benjamin Goff, Dylan Hallman, Becky Landeros, Rachael Power, Ashley Reed.

June 1—Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir. Larry Beck, Leader. Laura Bax, Assistant. Mark Fowler, Mark Stave.

June 1—Mt. Hood, South Side. Eric Brainich, Leader. Jared Knapp, Assistant. Derek Jahelka, Aaron Miller, Rosemary Prescott, Scott Schmitz, Nathan Strutt.

June 1—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. John Meckel, Leader. Julia Kentosh, Assistant. Jazmin Castillo, Lauren Doyle, Caroline Foster, Michael Graham, Zack Hartman, Ryan Maize, Nhat Pham, Rebecca Silverman, Stephen Wadley, Katie Zajicek.

June 9—Double Peak, Chinook Creek.

Doug Wilson, Leader. Jeff Earll, Assistant. Jeremiah Biddle, Lacey Breton, Teresa Dalsager, Elena Weinberg.

June 9—Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. John Sterbis, Leader. Karen Graves, Assistant. Riley Arner, Michael Capecelatro, Mike Fairhurst, Matthew Gantz, Connie Keller, Andrew Leaf, Erica Lee, Grant Schoepper.

June 9—Mt. Hood, South Side. Rico Micallef, Leader. Julie Kentosh, Assistant. Maheesha De Silva, Ritchie Farmer, Thatcher Gordon, Britt Hoover, Savyasaachi Keshava Murthy, Ian McCluskey, Rick Norwood, Katherine Peterson, Matthew Rollins, Jeffrey Sullivan.

June 9—Mt. Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam Glacier.

Matthew Sundling, Leader. Heather Johnston, Assistant. Will Bailey, Dileep Revanasiddappa.

June 9—Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Howard Buck, Assistant. Seth Dietz, Kyle Mangione, Satya Nanda, Jacob Powell, Matthew Schifberg, Jennifer Solís, Hannah Wentz.

June 2—Mt. Adams, South Side. John Sterbis, Leader. Shane Harlson, Assistant. Jeremiah Biddle, Lacey Breton, Kristi Carver, Maheesha De Silva, Karen De Vera, Mark Grismer, Rick Norwood.

June 9—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. John Godino, Leader. Christine Troy, Assistant. Lindsey Addison, Kristi Carver, Toby Contreras, Karen De Vera, Andrés Malavasi, Jamie McGilvray, Rodny Rodriguez, Angela Schaefer, Brian Wellman.

June 2—Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Sándor Lau, Leader. Michael Hortsch, Assistant. Pat Bailey, John Park, Katherine Peterson, Joel Rieger, Daksha Sharma, Rohan Sharma.

June 10—Mt. Hood, South Side. Lynne Pedersen, Leader. Ken Cachelin & Del P. Profitt, Assistants. Mercedes Angulo Acha, Brian Boyd, Tim Carrillo, Jeff Roberts, MacKenzie Stout.

June 2—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. John Meckel, Leader. Julie Kentosh, Assistant. Jazmin Castillo, Lauren Doyle, Caroline Foster, Michael Graham, Zack Hartman, Ryan Maize, Nhat Pham, Rebecca Silverman, Stephen Wadley, Katie Zajicek.

June 10—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. John Godino, Leader. Kerry Loehr, Assistant. George Callaway IV, Juanfran Carceles, Jonathan Doman, Mary Martel, Michael Moy, Rachel Smith, Andy Sorensen, Leah Sorensen, Eileen Sterlock.

June 2—Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier. Jon Major, Leader. Milton Diaz, Assistant. Diane Lloyd, Elena Weinberg.

June 2—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Alex Fox, Leader. Courtney Rust, Assistant. Aardra Athalye, Hannah Bessette, John Andrew Duvall, Lucas Illing, Elizabeth Pedersen, Stephen Penaskovic, Michael Shanks.

June 3—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Alex Fox, Leader. Elizabeth Pedersen, Assistant.

Hannah Bessette, Defne Cakin, Lucas Illing, Jeffrey Leadford, Alex Malozemoff, Chris Reigeluth.

June 12—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Marty Scott, Leader. Shirley Welch, Assistant. Urusa Alaan, Craig Alvarez, Michael Dahlin, Jessica Lemons, Michelle Lin, Dana Terhune.

June 14—Castle/Pinnacle, Standard/ East Ridge. Greg Scott, Leader. Alyssa Hursh, Assistant. Matthew Bone, Lacey Breton, Casey Carte, Matthew Gantz, Chris LeDoux, Kevin Marold, Austin Rufener, Michael Valentine, John Van Voorhies, Astrid Zervas.

June 14—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Walter Keutel, Leader. Melinda Hugo, Assistant. Zac Fitzgerald, Nathan Kaul, Vlad Lobanov, Nicole Seals, Patrick Seals, Barbara Weiss.

June 15—Castle/Pinnacle, Standard/East Ridge. Walter Keutel, Leader. Brinda Ganesh, Assistant. Chris Brox, Minah DeAinza, Melinda Hugo, Nathan Kaul, Malina Keutel, Vlad Lobanov, Nicole Seals, Patrick Seals, Ankush Varma, Barbara Weiss.

June 23—South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Andrew Leaf, Leader. Kerry Loehr, Assistant. Urusa Alaan, Jeremiah Biddle, Emily Carpenter, Bryan Dondero, Lauren Glenn, Benjamin Goff, Nhat Pham, Kevin Swearengin.

June 23—Strawberry Mountain, NE Ridge.

Bill Stein, Leader. Nancy Lloyd, Assistant. Klaus Brinkmann, Lori Butler, Jan-Erik Fougli, Darrin Funk, Yuko Ohnuma-Oyler, Tom Shi, Basil Stein, Steven Wagoner.

June 15—Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Bruce Yatvin, Leader. John Meckel, Assistant. Jami Cate, Elizabeth Cole, Susan Dixon, Lauren Doyle, Eli Goodwin, Tyler Miller, Kori Rosenstiel, David Stege.

June 23—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Howie Davis, Leader. Kristen Jackson, Assistant. Lacey Breton, Chung Fong, Nathan Kellar, Matt Kirsch, Kyle Lascurettes, Aimee Loomis, Emily Ruff, Laura Supalla, Michael Valentine.

June 15—Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier. Matthew Sundling, Leader. Stephanie Buer, Assistant. Ryan Johnson, Eric Risner, Andie Wright.

June 28—Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. Gary Bishop, Leader. Pam Bishop, Assistant. Brittany Eriksson, Dyanne Foster, Lacey Jones, Ian McCluskey, Nimesh Patel, Gary Riggs, Angela Schaefer, Scott Templeton.

June 15—The Brothers, South Couloir / Lena Lake. Jon Major, Leader. Jonathan Myers, Assistant. Sandee Myers, Nimesh Patel, Linke Rejholec, Jen Travers, Kirby Young.

June 16—Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Andrew Bodien, Leader. John Lombard, Assistant. Melanie Bower, Michael Graham, Lacey Jones, Honey Lacasandile, David Lorang, Joe Preston, Ross Quacchia.

June 16—Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Scott Auble, Assistant. Aardra Athalye, Duncan Hart, Kevin Kohberger, Bill Lowder, Ian McCluskey, Oksoon Mora.

June 21—Castle/Pinnacle, Standard/East Ridge. James Jula, Leader. Brad Wood, Assistant.

Seth Dietz, Anika Friesinger, Katherine Peterson, Brett Taute, Ngan Vo, Roberta Zouain.

June 21—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Daniel Mick, Leader. Duncan Hart, Assistant. Sara Jensen, Matt Krueger, Lauren Mason, Kathleen Morrison, Thomas Mynes, Tessa Rough.

June 21—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. James Jula, Leader. Brad Wood, Assistant. Seth Dietz, Anika Friesinger, Katherine Peterson, Brett Taute, Ngan Vo, Roberta Zouain.

June 22—Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Guy Wettstein, Leader. Larry Beck, Assistant. Lindsey Addison, Defne Cakin, Eric Cross, Ralph Daub, Forest Fogarty, Matt Fogarty, Sarah Johnson, Reuel Kurzet, Jamie McGilvray, Shweta Mokashi.

June 22—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier.

Matthew Sundling, Leader. Stephanie A Buer, Assistant. Jessica Dalton, Daniel Leone.

June 22—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Chris Kruell, Leader. Bridget Martin, Assistant. Grant Barba, Travis Feracota, Ellen McClure, Nachiket Rajderkar, Daksha Sharma, Rohan Sharma, Anthony Traver, Logan Young.

June 23—Mt. Adams, South Side. Karen Graves, Leader. Kevin Marold, Assistant. Liz Garrity, Gautam Ghare, Brendamari Rodriguez, Nicole Seals, Patrick Seals.

June 29—Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Rico Micallef, Leader. Katherine Peterson, Assistant. Joey Cole, Marsha Fick, Joshua Grimmer, Kevin Marold, Michelle McConnell, Michael Moy, Will Papenfuss, Matthew Rollins, Eileen Sterlock, Brett Taute.

June 29—Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall. Andy Nuttbrock, Leader. Tom Baughman, Kerry Loehr, Assistants. Carmel Adrian, Darren Ferris, Dian Ott. June 29—The Brothers, South Couloir / Lena Lake. Daniel Mick, Leader. Tyler (Toby) Creelan, Assistant. Loren Guerriero, Samantha Kang, Michael Schoenheit.

June 29—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Joshua Robert Lockerby, Leader. John Lombard, Assistant.

Andrew Behr, Melanie Bower, Taylor Courier, Julia Lin, Marti McCleskey, Ryan Peterson, Joe Preston, Siddhesh Shirodker.

June 30—Mt. Adams, South Side. Steve Warner, Leader. Carl Lucas, Assistant. Eric Cross, Forest Menke-Thielman, Shweta Mokashi, Nhat Pham, Thomas Williams.

June 30—Mt. Maude, South Shoulder. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Joe Powell, Assistant. George Callaway IV, John Andrew Duvall, Kate Evans, Caroline Foster, Urszula Iwaniec, Tatsuro Ogisu, Rachel Smith, Russell Turner.

June 30—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Chris LeDoux, Leader. Robin Wilcox, Assistant. Shayn Campbell, Liz Garrity, Andrea Ogston, Linke Rejholec, Daniel Zawistowski, Nate Zeiler.

June 30—Vesper Peak, North Face. Jesse Applegate, Leader. Arwen Bradley, Aimee Filimoehala, Nick Ostini, Courtney Rust.

July 1—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Chris LeDoux, Leader. Robin Wilcox, Assistant. Liz Garrity, Eli Goodwin, Jessica Lemons, Michelle Lin, Andrea Ogston.

July 6—Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/ North Ridge. George Shay, Leader. Rae Lantsberger, Assistant. Jonathan Doman, Brittany Eriksson, Michael Frank, Kirsten Jacobson, Amrish Menjoge, Forest Menke-Thielman, Nhat Pham, Adriana Vintila.

July 6—Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier.

Matthew Sundling, Leader. Tyler Bax, Assistant.

Jesse Applegate, Justin Colquhoun, Kristen Jackson.

July 9—Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys.

Matthew Sundling, Leader. Gavin Boggs, Assistant.

Sam Barnes, Melissa Crest, Terry Sayre.

July 9—Mt. Washington, North Ridge.

Guy Wettstein, Leader. Rico Micallef, Assistant.

Joe Camizzi, Juanfran Carceles, Suvi Chisholm, Elizabeth Cole, Michael Graham, Ian McCluskey.

July 13—Broken Top, Green Lakes / NW Ridge. Tim Scott, Leader. Courtney Rust, Assistant.

Urusa Alaan, Drew Dykstra, Brittany Eriksson, Vlad Lobanov, Michael Moy, Michael Valentine.

July 13—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Tracie Weitzman, Leader. Tyler Bax, Assistant. Colby Brooks, Sara Jensen, Surej Ravikumar, Matthew Rollins, John Sterbis, Laura Supalla.

July 13—Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge.

Greg Scott, Leader. Matthew Bell, Assistant. Teresa Dalsager, Katherine Peterson, Michael Schoenheit, Calvin Strahorn-Brown, Hannah Wentz, Roberta Zouain.

July 14—Mt. Washington, North Ridge.

Greg Scott, Leader. Matthew Bell, Assistant. Teresa Dalsager, Katherine Peterson, Michael Schoenheit, Calvin Strahorn-Brown, Hannah Wentz, Roberta Zouain.

July 14—Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge.

Tim Scott, Leader. Luke Levin, Assistant. Urusa Alaan, Drew Dykstra, Brittany Eriksson, Vlad Lobanov, Michael Moy, Courtney Rust, Michael Valentine.

July 15—Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier. Rico Micallef, Leader. Jeremy Galarneaux, Assistant.

Craig Alvarez, Anton Clifford, Dan Codorean, Calista Galarneaux, Jean Hillebrand, Mary Martel, Eileen Sterlock.

July 19—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Gary Bishop, Leader. Nick Ostini, Assistant. Jeremiah Biddle, Gavin Boggs, Clinton Carpenter, Kristi Riedel, Rebecca Ross, Scott Templeton.

July 19—Sahale Mountain, Sahale Arm/ Cascade Pass. Tim Scott, Leader. Kerry Loehr, Assistant. Matthew Gantz, Rebecca Silverman, Tracie Weitzman, Roberta Zouain.

July 20—Black Peak, South Route. Larry Buzan, Leader. Jeffrey Welter, Assistant. Sue Dimin, Thomas Dodson, Sarah Johnson, David Roche.

July 21—Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge. Bill Stein, Leader. Karyn Patridge, Assistant. Judith Baker, Loren Guerriero, Erin Moulesong, Yuko OhnumaOyler, Lauren Saxton, Steven Wagoner.

AUGUST 2019 15

SAYING GOODBYE HARPEL W. KELLER NOVEMBER 22, 1922–JUNE 27, 2019

A

Pennsylvanian with Bucks County Militia (1st Regiment of Foot) and Union Army (128th Regiment Pennsylvania Volunteers) ancestor blood, it was only natural that “Harpel” volunteered for what would become 30 months service to the nation he loved with the 5th U.S. Army Air Corps, 29th Air Depot Group. His first view of the Pacific Ocean was in 1943 from a troop carrier departing San Francisco, bound for Australia. Tenting alongside Garbutt airfield at the foot of “Mount” Louisa, Townsville, Queensland provided “roughing it” preparation for future Mazamas outings and climbs. Ultimately volunteering for the 1st Airborne Repair Squadron, Harpel logged 169 hours as a C-47 aerial engineer hopping between Australia, New Guinea, Philippines and Okinawa. He celebrated perhaps his most thankful of birthdays and Thanksgivings passing again beneath the Golden Gate Bridge on November 23, 1945. At the urging of his best Air Corps buddy, he arrived in Portland in October 1946.

Once in Portland, Harpel would remark that it took him three years to acclimate to Portland’s rainy weather before considering himself a native. Joining the Mazama family in 1955 was significant in his adoption of Portland as his home. His highlighting of musings in the 1966 Mazama Annual may suggest what the Pacific Northwest had to offer: In the wilderness man loses his identity in a somewhat chaotic, man-made world... His attitude shifts from competitive to cooperative, and all individuals in the group become essentially equal. All are bent on the common purpose of achieving a mutual goal in a primitive, elemental world filled with unlimited opportunity for the joy of discovery of new things, both externally and within themselves. (McKinley, p. 34) Originally, he enjoyed the local trail trips but then was encouraged to try climbing. Summiting Mt. Adams in 1957 earned his Guardian Peaks award. His favorite climb was Three Fingered Jack, whose summit helped him achieve that Oregon Cascade Peaks award. Mazama Outings were taken to The Wallowas, Maligne Lake, The Bugaboos, Sky Lakes, and the Owyhee River and were high points in lifelong friendships.

In 1962 Harpel was elected to the Executive Council, serving as Membership Secretary for two years and Council Vice President during 1964–65. Beginning in 1962 Harpel began to share his investment career experience as a Trust Committee member. He served continuously on Trust Committee until 1984, including as Chairman from 1972 to 1984. The EC's and Trust Committee’s stewardship happily enabled the side stepping of the 1973–74 16 MAZAMAS

At Mazama Lodge for Thanksgiving 1975. From left: Scott, Christena, Harpel, Susan, Craig. Photo: Ken Hollingsworth.

Harpel Keller at the Green Lakes trailhead at the start of a father and son backpacking trip. Year: Unknown. Photo: Craig Keller.

bear market, the disbursement of outsized interest income at the onset of the mid-1970s, and then the repositioning of principal with a “value” stock-picking investment adviser who delivered superior total returns through the rest of the inflationary 70s and 80s. Harpel considered his faithful dedication to bequestor wishes for preservation of investment principal, including protection from inflationary erosion, his most enduring contribution to the Mazamas. The 1986 Parker Cup award narrative recognized Trust fund growth in this way: As a consequence of this growth, the club has been able to promote substantial modernization of the clubrooms and Mazama Lodge, and has been able to contribute financial support to major climbing expeditions, scientific research projects, and land conservation projects. —Mazama Annual 1986 p. 55 This is how Harpel described the foundational generosity of the original bequestors in his Trust Committee report of 1983 This report has detailed the great benefit that Mazamas members Hardesty, Lee and Jensma have provided our club. We will expect that Mr. Ellis’s bequest will be equally useful to current and future members. This type of thought and the accompanying gift bears fruit not just once, but year after year. —Mazama Annual 1983 p. 50

SAYING GOODBYE ALLEN RAY SANDSTROM MARCH 25, 1938– JUNE 16, 2019

Similarly, in 1982, he wrote of the benefits from “compounding” upon a base of conserved capital: It takes years for an investment account to mature; first it should grow in size and market value, and then eventually we can expect the substantial production of dividends and interest... An analogy may be made to an orchard. First the seedlings must be planted, then we must wait until the young trees mature enough to bear fruit. Seven years is often mentioned as the time it takes for a fruit tree to bear.” —Mazama Annual 1982 P. 60 In 1980, upon a larger than usual disbursement for Lodge renovations, Harpel wrote: Your Trust Committee has no intention of “killing the goose that laid the golden egg.” Rather we enthusiastically encourage you to consider mentioning the Mazamas in your will in order to provide benefits for future Mazamas as William Hardesty and others are, from their benevolence, benefiting us today. On the other hand, why wait that long? Make a tax-free donation to the Mazamas before the current tax years ends. Do it now! —Mazama Annual 1980 P. 93 Harpel chaired the Banquet Committee in 1960 and 1961.

With his wife Susan, he served on the 1961 Outings Committee and hosted annual Wednesday evening picnics at Sellwood Park—a family favorite with games and photographs by Ken Hollingsworth.

Harpel is survived by wife Susan, children Scott, Craig, and Christena—Mazamas all—and six granddaughters. Internment will take place with military honors at Willamette National Cemetery on a date to be determined.

Harpel was simply a conscientious member of one of the best teams ever: the Mazamas. He was known to optimistically part company or greet a passing hiker with “Happy Day!” And it is!

Long ime Mazama Allen Ray Sandstrom passed away on Sunday, June 16, 2019. Born March 25, 1938, Allen lived an extraordinary life, humbly and modestly. He served in the Merchant Marines and the U.S. Army, returning home to enroll at Portland State University in 1959 while working full-time.

He graduated from PSU in 1964 with a business degree, and was the first in his family to earn a college education.

With a passion for education, Allen created the Allen Ray Sandstrom Endowed Scholarship which provides an opportunity for full-time PSU students who graduated from a public high school in the Beaverton or Portland school districts with a grade point average of 3.0 or better to apply. The scholarship will pay 50 to 100 percent of tuition and fees. Allen worked in accounting his entire career, primarily at Portland General Electric, before retiring as a Sr. Financial Planner in 1997.

In 1970, he joined the Mazamas and participated in multiple climbs throughout the Pacific NW including Mount St. Helens before the eruption. He earned his Guardian Peaks award in 1971 and his Seven Oregon Peaks award in 1974. Allen was also a passionate runner (and member of the Half Fanatics club) completing over 106 races, the first being in April of 1991, and the last in September of 2018. He completed a total of 30 halfmarathons in 2017.

Allen was a quiet, loving, well-mannered, and good-natured friend and community volunteer. He is greatly missed by his friends and family. As in life, Allen chose to be remembered quietly, with his family at his side; therefore a public service will not be held. Charitable donations in his name can be made to the Mazamas in his honor.

AUGUST 2019 17

Mazama Classics Summer Picnic

T

he Mazama Classics Summer Picnic is a tradition that dates back about 15 years. On the Saturday closest to July 4, Dick and Jane Miller open up their delightful property to a picnic for 25+ year Mazama members. This potluck-style gathering is a time for old friends to come together to share stories, catch up, and enjoy each other's company. This year's picnic was attended by approximately 35 Classics members. The climb tales were epic, the food was tasty, and the company was friendly and welcome—just as one would expect Mazamas to be. We hope to see all of you Classics there in 2020!

THIS PAGE

RIGHT PAGE

Top: Miller's BBQ Welcome sign.

Top row: Ray Sheldon. Jane Miller.

Dick Miller.

Right column: Climb and hike leader David Zeps.

Past Executive Director Keith Mischke shakes hands with Jack Grauer, past Mazama president. Jacob Egger.

Second Row: Bob Lockerby. Tom Dinsmore. Sign at the Miller's property.

Middle Row: Hike leader Flora Huber. Virgnia Keefer. Hike leader Bertie August

Bottom row: Alpacas Toyo and Fito.

Group photo.

Bottom: Hike and Trail Trips leader Rick Pope, Acting Executive Director Sarah Bradham (and Quiggles).

Photos: Teresa Dalsager.

Photos: Teresa Dalsager.

18 MAZAMAS

AUGUST 2019 19

s m a r g o r P h t u o Y a m a z Ma

by Claire Nelson, Youth and Outreach Program Manager & Molly Mosenthal, Adventure WILD Camp Manager

M

azamas Youth Programs continue to get bigger and better year after year. As we wrap up summer programming and get ready for the fall, we wanted to outline all our readers on all the ways we work to inspire the next generation to love and protect the mountains.

Left: Making bird feeders for our avian neighbors.

Top: A camper makes a bird's nest at the MMC. Right: Young climbers honing their skills in the Holman Auditorium. Photos: Chloe Kev, TALON intern, Portland Audubon Society.

20 MAZAMAS

ADVENTURE WILD SUMMER DAY CAMP WAS BIGGER AND BETTER THAN EVER! This summer marked the 8th year of Adventure WILD Summer Day Camp. After filling up camp spaces with expanded sessions, 8 weeks of overnight opportunities at the Mazama Lodge, and a full docket of guest educators with diverse curriculum, Adventure WILD was bigger and better than ever before.

Each summer, Adventure WILD welcomes campers ages 4–10 years to the Mazama family. Through thematic and guided activities, the program uses placebased play and exploration to connect children to their natural surroundings, introduce them to rock climbing, and foster stewardship of our environment among the next generation of leaders. This year, Adventure WILD served more than 230 children across 8 weeks of camp, including more than 15 Mazama families and with the help of many Mazama volunteers. Each week, over 10 Mazama volunteer belayers joined camp to provide rock climbing experience and education to campers.

Volunteer involvement didn’t end there.

Several volunteer educators came to share their expertise through hands-on learning and lessons. This summer, Adventure WILD guest activities included a visit from native educators, Christine and Clifton Bruno, to explore the significance of salmon to native tribes of the Pacific Northwest. History buff Pamela Larsen joined us on Mt. Hood to teach us about Celilo Falls and its importance as fishing grounds. Community educator Haley Mountain joined us for activities on the water cycle. Julie Concannon with U.S. Fish & Wildlife guided campers through an activity exploring the geology of our land. Joanie Beldin and Sheila Redman of Wolf Ways returned for another year of wolf conservation activities, a camper favorite. Through connections to the Mazama community as well as the greater Portland community of educators, Adventure WILD strives to expose campers to diverse facets of environmentalism, all with the common goal of fostering stewardship among future Mazamas and outdoor enthusiasts.

With a focus on creating meaningful experiences in the outdoors for all young people, we look forward to expanding Adventure WILD to offer more opportunities to learn, protect, and play in the mountains. Stay tuned to see more opportunities for older campers, school-

year options, and field trips into diverse WILD places. If you have any questions about Adventure WILD Summer Day Camp, please contact Molly Mosenthal, Adventure WILD Camp Manager, at molly@mazamas.org.

Thank you to the Mazama community that supported or was directly involved in Adventure WILD Summer Day camp this year. We can’t wait for next summer!

ADVENTURE CLIMB SUMMER CAMP This summer we launched an exciting new chapter in summer camp fun! Six campers, ages 11-14 joined us at the Mazama lodge for five days of outdoor climbing. At Adventure CLIMB, we believe outdoor climbing is a perfect way to learn personal responsibility, confidence, teamwork, and an appreciation for the outdoors. Throughout the week, our campers will not only become outdoor crushers, but better outdoor stewards, problem solvers, and friends.

Our Adventure CLIMB staff led the campers on adventures at three local climbing areas on Mt. Hood in order to learn the fundamentals of outdoor climbing ethics and skills. The campers finished their week with a night under the stars, falling asleep next to the sounds of the Hood River. For more information, please contact Claire Nelson, Youth and Outreach Program Manager, at claire@mazamas.org.

FM101 AND FAMILIES ROCK SKILLS* Always interested in learning the basics of climbing mountains, but worried about taking time away from your family to do so? Well, we have the course for you!

Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) trains adult and youth climbers for entry-level mountaineering activities, including rock and snow climbing skills.

This class is an opportunity to get your entire family involved with alpine activities and mountaineering objectives. FM101 is designed to support parents and their children in building a solid foundation of mountaineering skills. Participants of the class will learn the skills required to be a competent member of Mazama “A” or “B” level climbs.

FM101 utilizes one-room schoolhouse style to accommodate kids and adults of all ages. The class will break out into smaller practice and field session groups based upon a number of considerations, including age. FM101 begins August 5. We can’t

wait to welcome our new families to the mountain community!

Interested in learning more about the specifics of rock climbing? Families Rock Skills is an open climbing session on the MMC climbing walls. Our focus is to help your family become comfortable with roped climbing in a supportive, low pressure atmosphere developed to encourage kids. And, for kids and parents who want to learn more, Mazama Families Mountaineering instructors are also there to help you and your kids learn or practice any basic climbing skill you want to cover from belaying to rappelling or more. You tell us what you want to learn, and we’ll show you the ropes. Kids and parents can earn a belay card to be able to belay at other Families Rock events. All ages are welcome to attend. There is plenty of space for toddlers to play while their older siblings climb. Kid and adult rock shoes and harnesses with belay devices are available at no extra cost. Come for the entire session or drop in for just a part of the evening. Fee: $2 per person, $5 max per family. *Though these courses were designed originally as a way for parents and their children to learn together, FM101 and Family Rock Skills are open to any guardian or adult, and child who wish to take the course together.

continued on next page AUGUST 2019 21

MAZAMA LODGE Lodge Musings & Happenings It was like every day was as busy of as the Eclipse Weekend of 2018. We had many more guests stopping by the Lodge, and we frequently heard "Mazama Lodge is the only place on Mt. Hood with parking available ..." This year with much cooler temperatures and many of the Gorge trails reopened, the Mt. Hood area is much quieter and a more Kids from Adventure WILD prepare for their return to Portland after relaxing place to visit. their overnight stay. Photo: Charles Barker, Mazama Lodge Manager Timberline will be opening their mountain bike park

by Charles Barker, Mazama in early August so expect Lodge Manager additional traffic, as well as mountain bikers on the Westleg Road.

We are frequently asked when is it a good quiet time to stay at Mazama Lodge.

QUIET DATES TO STAY AT THE We have several dates this August with LODGE very few guests. Last season with the August 1, 11, 15, 20, 21, 25–29. The last Columbia Gorge closed to hiking, the Mt. day of our summer season will be Labor Hood Area was packed almost every day.

Day, September 2, closing on Tuesday, September 3.

SHOWERS Walsh construction will be coming back to Mazama Lodge and finishing up on the showers, so the water will drain without pooling outside the showering area. This project will only take a few days and will be complete before the end of July.

SKI HILL LIGHTS After seventy two years our ski hill lights will be going underground to avoid the frequent wind damage. Lights on the hill were originally installed in 1947 to complement the Lodge rope tow that ran from 1936 until 1996. Our ski hill lights will be fixed this summer/fall by Tice Electric, who will use low voltage LED electric lights. A special thank you to member Richard Sandefur who started working on this project over three years ago, as well as to the generous donors who made this project possible.

Youth Programs, continued from previous page YOUTH OUTREACH CLIMBING The goal of the Youth Outreach Climbing Program is to further the mission of youth-serving organizations through climbing education and community building at the Mazama Mountaineering Center and at local outdoor climbing areas. During a Youth Outreach Climb, participants learn the basics of climbing equipment, safety and commands, how to properly belay one another and the fundamentals of climbing technique. Class curriculum may be modified at any time to meet the immediate goals of the Youth Outreach Partner. Mazama volunteers provide belaying, instruction, and mentoring to youth.

This summer, we had the privilege of partnering with PDX Climbers of Color and Portland Parks and Recreation Youth Conservation Crews for three outdoor 22 MAZAMAS

climbs at Broughton Bluffs. The teens loved the experience of outdoor climbing at one of our local parks! Partnering with PDX Climbers of Color is an important way to connect teens with more culturally relevant climbing mentors. Check out PDX Climbers of Color on Facebook to learn more about the amazing organization!

MAZAMA MOUNTAIN SCIENCE SCHOOL The Mazama Mountain Science School (MMSS) provides an outdoor learning opportunity for 4th-6th grade students at the base of Mt. Hood. Students work together in small teams as they learn first-hand about the alpine environment.

Developed by the Mazamas and the Multnomah Education Service District (MESD) Outdoor School, the program incorporates 5th-grade and 6th-grade science, math, and geography concepts in

interactive, inquiry-based, outdoor lessons.

Students learn about stato-volcanos by building models in the snow, and physics by sledding down the Mazama ski hill!

MMSS takes place during the winter months (January–March) at the Mazama Lodge, just outside of Government Camp, Oregon. Many of the students who attend this program have never been on Mt. Hood before! This year, we’re gearing up for our sixth year of this transformative program.

Thank you to everyone who supports these transformative and important programs at the Mazamas. We couldn’t do it without your support. Together we can usher in the new generation of mountain lovers to our community and beyond.

CLASSICS For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS To contact the Classics: Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org.

SUPPORT THE CLASSICS The Mazamas is as strong as it is because of the fierce support of its members and volunteers. This notice, then, will merely serve to direct your attention to the Classics. We need to work with a volunteer to put more content in our Bulletin column on a quarterly basis. In particular, we want to document past Classics' events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. If you wantan opportunity for finesse and creativity instead of the usual brute strength that keeps the wheels turning, this is it. Besides that, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@ mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.

LEADING EVENTS IN SEPTEMBER If you want to lead an event please contact the Classics at classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Our next meeting is September 23 (the fourth Friday) at the MMC at 11 a.m. Our meetings are (usually) the fourth Monday of every other month, 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. at the MMC, in the library. Check the Bulletin or the website.

CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

FRI. SEPT. 6: LODGE LUNCHEON Speaker TBD. There is a suggested $5 donation. Lunch is at 11:30 a.m. We will likely arrange a carpool from the MMC to the Lodge.

FRI. DEC. 6: HOLIDAY LUNCHEON Mark your calendars now! Speaker TBD.

AUGUST 2019 23

THE DIFFERENCE A YEAR CAN MAKE From BCEP to ICS and Beyond

by Ian McCluskey

T

his is the story of my recent Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) experience, but not surprisingly, it begins with the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP).

Barely a year ago, I was a fresh BCEP student. At the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) for the first time, I fumbled into my new harness. This was only the second time I had ever worn a harness, the first being when I tried it on at the Mountain

Shop the week before. Having just learned the rewoven figure 8, I was told to climb the rock wall, up to the ledge.

As I began, I felt the sturdy grip of the big bucket holds. I had no style—I pulled more with my arms than pushed with my legs—but I made it to the ledge, and wedged beside three other BCEP students and Guy Wettstein, one of our assistants. “Clip in here,” I heard Guy say at the same time I realized that the oil painting of Crater Lake I’d been looking up at was now below eye level.

From the wood floor, the small ledge didn’t seem far away; from the ledge the wood floor suddenly felt like a far drop. I

could see my fellow classmates, heads tilted up to see me. I suddenly felt a tightness in my stomach, and a queasy vertigo. My hands, damp with nervous sweat, gripped the bolted chain.

Call it the built-in survival reaction all humans have when teetering over a precipice, or call it an honest-to-goodness fear of heights.—that's the thing about a phobia: It’s abstract until you feel it for the first time.

Rappelling is also abstract, until one leans their full body weight into thin air, hanging butt-first over an edge.

“Trust your gear,” Guy said calmly. “Trust yourself. You’ve got this.”

From left to right: The author on the summit of Vesper Peak. Photo: Unknown. The author rappelling at Smith Rock State Park. Photo: Geoff Melly. ICS rock session at Horsethief Butte. Photo: Ian McCluskey.

The author's first snow anchor rappel. Photo: Alex Lockard.

24 MAZAMAS

Getting to the ground was my first Mazama victory. I felt a rush of adrenaline and beamed from the hoots and high-fives of my classmates.

I’d like to say after that first successful rappel, I never felt the pang of fear while high up again. It wasn’t so simple.

Fast forward: BCEP graduation, then packing in as many climbs as I could get on over the summer, then applying to and becoming one of 38 accepted ICS students.

For the Mazamas, ICS is a time-honored rite of passage. It’s not the upper technical level of advanced programs, or the hardearned status of climb leader, but it’s a clear step up from BCEP. In the lineup of classes offered by the Mazamas, ICS is by far the most significant commitment—it’s a 9-month barrage of lectures and a gauntlet of field sessions that are often described as “drinking from the fire hose.”

ICS has also been dubbed the divorce course for claiming so many consecutive out-of-town weekends (though, if anyone is actually keeping tabs, it has probably launched more relationships). And, by the way, married partners Anna and James

Robert Dearman took ICS this year together.

Number of known divorces over ICS: 0.

The Intermediate Climbing School can trace its roots back to Jack Grauer and 1961. After falling on hard times, ICS as we know it today is the brainchild of Don Kemper in 1976. Under Kemper’s leadership, and with the help of Keith Mischke in 1978 and Ron Schroeder in 1979, the program was reorganized and became an essential part of the Mazama Climbing program.

By the early 1980s, the Intermediate Climbing School had solidified some of the core elements that define it today. It required a prerequisite of at least two snow climbs and two rock climbs. Over nine months, the course presented lectures on topics like weather, nutrition, equipment, and leadership. It demanded mandatory attendance of field sessions, including rock

Getting to the ground was my first Mazama victory. I felt a rush of adrenaline and beamed from the hoots and high-fives of my classmates. climbing at Horsethief Butte and Smith Rock, as well as crevasse rescue practice (though we no longer practice on the Eliot Glacier in actual crevasses). Also gone from the curriculum today are igloo and snow cave building, ice climbing, and the completion of four advanced Mazama climbs. But the test at the end is still required to graduate.

An article in the 1980 Mazama Annual reported that 63 new students signed up; nine months later, “about 45–50” had

continued on next page AUGUST 2019 25

ICS, continued from previous page managed to stick it out. Though enrollment has varied year to year, the concept remains the same: ICS is a single cohort, with anywhere from 35 to 45 students divided into smaller groups during lecture breakouts, field sessions, so that by the end of 9 months each student has worked closely with all the others.

Back in 1980, tuition for ICS was $25, which broke down to around $3 per session.

“This school has to be the biggest climbing bargain in town,” claimed the abovereferenced Annual article. Arguably, it still is.

In 1980, some 40 climb leaders and instructors participated in the course, making the student-to-teacher ratio better than 2:1. Upholding that tradition, today dozens of climb leaders, leadership development candidates, Advanced Rock graduates, and scores of ICS alums come back to help train the latest batch.

For graduates of BCEP, ICS is a natural next step. “At no other point in your climbing career are you likely to see your climbing skills advance more dramatically within a single, relatively short span of time,” the course description promises. That is exactly what I had signed up for.

We started at the tail end of summer, jamming as many field sessions as possible into September and October before the rains set in.

On our first weekend field session at Smith Rock, I found myself scaling my first outdoor 5.8—which felt like a true victory.

At the top of the pitch, I clipped my pro into the anchor. Volunteer assistant Matt Bell, plus fellow ICS student Jeremy Galarneaux were already at the anchor. The entirety of our body mass was held by two bolts drilled into the rock. I looked at the rock, then at the bolts, hen at the taut cordelette, mere millimeters in thickness, giving new meaning to the term "hanging by a thread." If the anchor failed, the entirety of our weight, easily more than 500 lbs of dangling human, would plummet.

Below us, I saw the small specks of people walking the trail. I gulped in a deep breath and I recalled my first rock session in the MCC and the voice of Guy, “Trust the gear.”

For me—and perhaps for the others who had given up all our weekends—it wasn’t just about technical training. It wasn't even about the joy of a successful climb on a grade you didn’t think you were capable of.

26 MAZAMAS

It was deeper than that—facing fear, and in doing so strengthening the muscle of courage.

Courage, it has been said, is not the absence of fear, but what you do in its presence.

By January, we headed to Timberline Lodge to practice snow skills. At the overflow parking lot, snowplows had scraped blocks of ice and snow over the steep bank. I set up to rappel.

As I cinched up on my ATC and leaned my full weight into the anchor, I felt the harness dig in, and felt my body hovering in thin air. Below me a sheer icy drop and the tips of spruce trees.

It was like my first rappel all over again: the rush of adrenaline, and surge of instinctive fear. And while I had safely rappelled so many times at that point that the act of rappelling was no longer unsettling, I was, for the first time, trusting my life to a snow anchor I’d built myself.

BCEP was about learning to use and to trust gear, to follow instructions on a climb team, and to safely get down a rappel someone else had set up. Now, it wasn’t just about trusting something external—my gear, or a climb leader—but in trusting something internal: my training, my judgement, and my own work. I leaned back. “On rappel!” I called out.

My ICS classmate Alex Lockard snapped my photo. I smiled. I couldn’t believe I was actually rappelling off my own snow anchor.

“Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one’s courage,” wrote Anais Nin. At that moment, my life felt as large as the mountain.

To round off the ICS experience, we divided the cohort and joined BCEP teams as assistants. This time, I was the one showing new students how to dress a prusik, tie an alpine butterfly in the palm of a gloved hand, and set up for rappel.

At the end of ICS, after nine consecutive months of lectures and field sessions (and additional modules like First Aid) we were exhausted. It’d been a long haul.

“I’m sure glad that’s over,” we all seemed to say with a sigh.

“What climbs are you going to do?” we asked each other over the last graduation beer.

And the response seemed slow: “I dunno... Think I’ll take a break.”

This wasn’t true.

Within a week after the official end of ICS came the flood of social media posts.

My colleagues were scaling harder routes than they’d ever tried before. I saw posts of Leuthold Couloiu, Sunshine, and Cooper Spur on Mt. Hood. Gibraltar Ledges on Mt. Rainier. And for me, I joined a team up the Zipper on Lane Peak.

Going up the steep, narrow chute, we set a running belay, but on the last pitch to the summit we free climbed. I realized I was confidently climbing a fifth-class rock and snow section, precisely placing the points of my crampons on thin footholds. Looking back down, I realized I was most definitely exposed.

Rather than tense up with apprehension, I relaxed. I took a deep breath, and grinned.

The climb leader, Tyler Bax, called up to me to take the rope and picket I was packing, and to build an anchor. I quickly began to dig with my ice ax. Memories of practicing digging anchors flooded back from ICS snow sessions. Dig fast, efficient.

Make the trench deep enough. Set the right angle. The pieces of instruction clicked together.

After our summit, the entire team tied their prusiks to the rope, and began their descent, using the rope as a hand-line. The rope stretched taut under the collective weight of the climbers.

I stood at the anchor I’d built. My first one freshly out of ICS. And for the first time, it wasn’t just my life on the line—it was the lives of my teammates. If my anchor failed, they would all tumble down the steep, rocky pitch.

What a difference a year had made.

I had learned to trust my ability and my judgement. And in doing so, I had allowed others to trust in me.

I have never been so proud as in that moment, watching a climb team carefully pick their footing, letting their full weight lean back into thin air.

Author’s Bio: Ian McCluskey was a “Mountain Dog” in BCEP, an ICS Assistant for the “Glacier Snakes” and “honorary Snake Dog.” He is deeply indebted to all the volunteers who have shared their time, knowledge, kindness, and patience.

SHOULD YOU TAKE WFR?

by Jonathan Barrett

I

n the spring of 1999, I was paddling on the Bull Run River with a college friend, Aaron, when I dislocated my left shoulder for the first time. I had entered a slot between a boulder and the rocky bank but botched the approach. Being a poor whitewater boater, I tried to brace against the downstream wave train, and with a sickening crunch, the joint was levered apart. I was ejected from my boat and into the icy stream. Wanting to howl with pain, I could only get a mouthful of icy runoff water.

When Aaron fished me out, it became immediately clear that we were in a serious bind and could not continue paddling. I held my unstable left arm away from my torso with my right hand in a position of relative comfort.

Only a few months prior to this incident, we had taken a Wilderness First Responder course at Lewis and Clark College, where we undergraduates. It seemed fitting, in some twisted way, that this should be our real-deal final exam. Sitting on the riverbank, we completed the checklist that was drilled into us by our instructors. Were we more than a couple of hours from advanced medical care? Yes, given that rest of the river still needed to be run. Did I have the mechanism of injury that would indicate a dislocation? Certainly.

How were my circulation, sensation, and movement?

Good, adequate, and almost non-existent. Based on our training, it seemed that the course of action was to reduce the dislocation using one of the methods that we had learned. Here we paused because we had learned that field treatment could result in additional risks. In this case, it was possible that I could end up with a pinched nerve or blood vessel if the shoulder went back into place poorly. That outcome could have disastrous consequences given the length of time it was going to take to get the hospital. Our decision was to not attempt a reduction and make haste for the ER while splinting the arm in a position of relative comfort.

I recall this story because it illustrates my primary argument for not getting a Wilderness First Responder certification, but I will get to that shortly. First, I want to address the fact that seeking further education in climbing and mountaineering is always a good thing. Updating our skillset keeps the mind sharp and our knowledge current. It is common, therefore, for someone who has gotten a Wilderness First Aid certification, whether it be through the Mazamas or another organization, to wonder if they should also seek out a Wilderness First Responder certification

(WFR). This is akin to a neophyte multi-pitch leader suddenly realizing that they do not have the skills to escape the belay or lower a partner.

I went for twenty years without taking another WFR course after that first one in college. In those two decades, I have dealt with sprained ankles, minor burns, an amputated fingertip, a rollover car crash, AMS, diabetic climbing partners, severe poison oak rashes, and much more. I have climbed and hiked in Alaska, Canada, and remote parts of the North Cascades. Only this spring did I retake my WFR with NOLS because it was a prerequisite for a course I will be taking later this year. Why did I never recertify voluntarily in all of that time? For three reasons.

Until my course this spring, I had forgotten that one of the primary concepts addressed in a WFR course is the issue of evacuation. The question that needs to be addressed is the following: Is the injury manageable in the field? If not, how urgently does the patient need to be evacuated? This is true for everything from chest pain to head injury to diarrhea.

As a private citizen organizing my own backcountry trips, I have never had to weigh the issue of an injured person against inconvenience to the group. No trip has ever been so remote or with so large a party that it became a concern. When the injury was severe, the trip was over. The course that I recently took included in the curriculum a set of evacuation protocols for each type of injury. Part of passing the course was being able to decide whether to stay in the field or seek care in a hospital. This choice is only applicable in an institutional setting like a NOLS course.

The second issue is one of competency. Without regular training including exposure to real emergency

continued on next page AUGUST 2019 27

WFR, continued from previous page

The second issue is one of competency.

Without regular training including exposure to real emergency situations, it is almost impossible to feel competent in resolving problems that are uncommon, complicated, or nuanced. situations, it is almost impossible to feel competent in resolving problems that are uncommon, complicated, or nuanced. I suspected that my knowledge would diminish in the weeks and months following the course, but it has not, at least according to the metric of a multiple choice test. Prior to my final exam, I was scoring in the low ninety percent range on the practice multiple-choice test.

Currently, my score is still in the high eighties. However, rereading the text and knowing the material by heart does not equate to a willingness to apply a technique in an emergency situation where an error could result in even graver consequences. When your only experience is simulated, it’s hard to have the confidence to perform emergency aid procedures. When I was sitting with Aaron on the side of the Bull Run, contemplating whether to attempt a reduction of my shoulder, the bottom line was that I just didn’t feel confident enough. In the last twenty years, I have washed countless open wounds and treated innumerable altitude headaches, but when I came across that roll-over car crash, I simply called 911 and maintained control over the patient’s spine until the paramedics arrived. Would I have the confidence to clear a patient that had an MOI for spine injury in a backcountry setting? It is impossible to know, but I can state with all humility that if I did, it would terrify me.

The final issue is one of time and money invested relative to the applicability of the course outcomes.

The WFR is an 80-hour course. In most cases, this is eight or nine straight days of coursework and practice.

Wilderness First Aid is two days. To put it in perspective, in my WFR course, we spent a full day on CPR. Unless you are a student (or teacher, as is my case) on break from school, most people simply don’t have the time necessary to take the WFR without making serious sacrifices. As I have suggested earlier in this essay, most of the bumps and bruises acquired in the backcountry fit neatly into the scope of a WFA. Upon graduating from the WFR this

28 MAZAMAS

spring, there were a number of individuals who openly expressed interest in taking a Wilderness EMT course, which is only natural. The material that we covered raised additional issues and questions. A large number simply couldn’t be addressed in the limited time that we had, or the concepts were beyond the scope of the course curriculum.

One of the most enjoyable and educational aspects of the WFR course is the hands-on scenarios where participants get fake injuries, replete with moulage blood and a commitment to acting out the assigned role.

These are multifaceted and complex problem-solving opportunities. During the class, students engage in them every day, and the situations can last from thirty minutes to several hours. They are a far cry from an online quiz. Until there is a way to regularly drill the skill sets acquired in a WFR, it is difficult to support taking a course. In answer to the question “Should I take a WFR course?” the answer is yes with a simple caveat. The course provides a baseline of competency in a set of skills that extend the more practical WFA. However, unless you are willing to exercise those skills with rigor, regularity, and focus, you may not have the capacity to use them when they are needed. Taking the course cannot be the endpoint. A more advanced curriculum is going to provide solutions to more complicated and uncommon problems. The only way to avoid the situation that I faced with Aaron on the bank of the Bull Run is to continue to immerse yourself in ongoing education and meaningful practice so that when the skillset is needed, you will be both competent and confident.

Author Bio: Jonathan Barrett has been a member of the Mazamas since 2006, and his climbing career started 25 years ago when he was in high school. He currently works at North Marion High School as a language arts teacher.

e m o c l e W

New Members!

NEW MEMBERS: 22 Urusa Alaan—Mt. Hood Sonja Alonso—Mt. Hood Todd Arnold—South Sister Chris Brian Baker—Mt. Hood Melanie Bower—Middle Sister Tim Carrillo—Mt. Hood David Elder—Mt. Adams Liz Garrity—Mt. St. Helens Benjamin Goff—South Sister Damon Greenshields—Mt. St Helens Derek Jahelka—Mt. Hood Lindsay Knox—Mt. Adams

Ken Lindhorst—Mt. St Helens Shauna O'Neal—Mt. Hood Juan Piantino—Villarrica Volcano Patricia Presson—Mt. Hood Alex Rodewald—Mt. St Helens Michael Schiller—Vinson Massif (Antartica) Eric Schmidt—Mt. St Helens Daniel Ugarte—Mt. Hood Robert Waite—Gilbert Peak Kara West—Mt. Adams

REINSTATEMENTS: 2

Tom Clardy (1983) and Pat Fay (2002)

DECEASED: 4

Harpel Keller (1955), Roy Kinzie (1963), Ray Polani (1963), & David Schermer (1978)

Total Membership as of June 30: 3,479 (2019), 3,484 (2018)

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS

O

ur members are part of a 125year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation.

Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership.

▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.

TRANSITION TEAM UPDATE

by Marty Scott, Mazama Vice President It’s been a busy time for the transition team. As I reported last month, we met with the lead consultant from the Valtas Group on June 20 for an oral presentation of the background, skills, experience, and merits of the most highly qualified candidates who applied to be the Mazamas' next executive director. The members of the transition team identified seven candidates from those presented to interview by phone in late June to enable us to delve a bit deeper into each candidate’s skills and experience before deciding who to interview in person.

Following the phone interviews the transition team selected four of the seven candidates for onsite interviews in July. These face to face interviews provided opportunities for the candidates to meet with both Executive Council and Mazama staff members. Those Executive Council members who did not participate in the interview were invited to review candidate materials and provide feedback to the transition committee. Once the top candidates have been identified, the lead consultant will contact references on those candidates. By the time you read this article, the reference checks should be complete, after which the members of the Executive Council will be invited to informal small group discussions with the top candidate, and negotiations with the top candidate will begin.

If you have comments or questions regarding the transition, please email the transition committee at transition@mazamas.org.

AUGUST 2019 29

MAZAMA LIBRARY

Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country.

Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping, and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.

Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at mazamas.org/library

NEW RELEASES AND ADDITIONS Some Stories, Lessons from the edge of business and sport, by Yvon Chouinard. For nearly 80 years, Yvon Chouinard has followed his own advice, pursuing, with equal fervor, sports adventures, business excellence, and environmental activism. Since 1950, he has captured the lessons and revelations he’s learned in articles and books, personal letters and poetry, introductions and eulogies. In this fascinating inside look, Chouinard himself has selected his favorites from years of reflection, all accompanied by illustrative photos, many never published before. The results are both more of Chouinard’s iconoclastic and provocative thinking, his skilled storytelling and sense of humor, and a picture of the evolution of his thoughts and philosophies. With articles on sports, from falconry to fishing and climbing to surfing, with musings on the purpose of business and the importance of environmental activism, this very personal book is like sitting on the couch with this amazing man, flipping through his photo album as he tells the stories of his life.

Some Stories is an eclectic portrait of a unique life lived well. Mazama Library call# 920 C45 Queen of the Mountaineers: the trailblazing life of Fanny Bullock Workman, by Cathryn J. Prince. Fanny Bullock Workman was a complicated and restless woman who defied the rigid Victorian morals she found as restrictive as a corset. With her frizzy brown hair tucked under a helmet, Workman was a force on and off the mountain. Instrumental in breaking the British stranglehold on Himalayan mountain climbing, this American woman climbed more peaks than any of her peers and became the first woman to map the far reaches of the Himalayas and the second to address the Royal Geographic Society of London, whose past members included Charles Darwin, Richard Francis Burton, and David Livingstone. Her books—replete with photographs, illustrations, and descriptions of meteorological conditions, glaciology, and the effect of high 30 MAZAMAS

altitudes on humans—remained useful decades after their publication.

Paving the way for a legion of female climbers, Workman's legacy lives on in scholarship prizes at Wellesley, Smith, Radcliffe, and Bryn Mawr. Mazama Library call# 920 W89 The End of Ice: Bearing witness and finding meaning in the path of climate disruption, by Dahr Jamail, 2019. After nearly a decade overseas as a war reporter, the acclaimed journalist Dahr Jamail returned to America to renew his passion for mountaineering, only to find that the slopes he had once climbed have been irrevocably changed by climate disruption. In response, Jamail embarks on a journey to the geographical front lines of this crisis—from Alaska to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, via the Amazon rainforest—in order to discover the consequences to nature and to humans of the loss of ice. Mazama Library call# 550.312 J22.

BOOKS ON NORTHWEST OREGON HIKING ▶▶ 100 Hikes in Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington, Sullivan, 917.95 Su5nw ▶▶ Take a hike Portland: hikes within two hours of the city, Bond, 917.95.b46t ▶▶ Urban Trails, Boschetto, 917.95 B65p ▶▶ Curious Gorge, Cook, 917.95 C77c

TREASURES FROM THE SPECIAL COLLECTION History of the Oregon Country, Vol 1-6, by Harvey W. Scott, 1924. A history of Oregon drawn from articles, editorials, and public addresses given and written by Harvey Scott. His son, Leslie M. Scott, acted as editor on the set and published it after Harvey’s death. Harvey Scott was an American pioneer, newspaper editor, and historian. Scott is best remembered as the long-time editorialist of The Oregonian newspaper and was regarded by his contemporaries as instrumental in bringing the state of Oregon firmly into the political camp of the Republican Party. Mount Scott, the extinct volcano in Happy Valley, is named after him, and a statue of him stands atop Mount Tabor. Mazama Library Special Collection, 917.95.S42 v.1-6.

MAZAMA LIBRARY'S MOST WANTED The recently completed inventory of the Mazama Library identified the following books missing from the collection. ▶▶ Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14, Jeff Smoot, #796.5.S7 c.1 ▶▶ Oregon Wild: Endangered Forest, Andy Kerr, 333.75 K46 c.2 ▶▶ Leader's Reference Book: Leadership Training Program, Sierra Club, 374.014 A4 ▶▶ Risk Management Review of the Mazamas, Ian Wade, 796.49 W11 c.3 ▶▶ Allen & Mike's Really Cool Backcountry Ski Book: Traveling and Camping Skills for a Winter Environment, Allen O'Bannon, 796.51.Ob1a ▶▶ Adrenalin 2000: The Year's Best Stories of Adventure and Survival, #904 W67a

If you borrowed these books without checking them out, please return them.

▶▶ 60 Hikes within 60 Miles, 6th Ed, Gerald, 917.95 G35

DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ That an avalanche in December of 1991 reduced the height of New Zealand’s Mount Cook by thirtyfive feet, from 12,349 ft to 12,315 ft. ▶▶ The highest and longest cable car in the world rises 15,629 feet to the summit of Bolivia’s Pico Espejo. ▶▶ That George Mallory filled his pockets with lumps of sugar while climbing Everest. ▶▶ That Scotland’s Ben Nevis was Europe’s deadliest mountain, with thirty-two deaths between 1989 and 1994.

THE MAZAMA LIBRARY NEEDS SUPPORT—FROM YOU! Do you or someone you know have vintage mountaineering gear that is looking for a home? Don’t give it to Goodwill, donate it to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections! We are always on the lookout for wood handle ice axes, early climbing gear, vintage catalogs, turn of the century photographs, early mountaineering books, and more. Please contact library manager Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to discuss potential donations. We apologize, but we cannot accept any Mazama Annuals published after 1925 or National Geographic magazines.

Please consider a financial contribution to support the Mazama Library, a nationally recognized collection and one of the few remaining mountaineering libraries in the United States.

Your financial donation will help support our full-time librarian, acquire rare mountaineering books and historic photographs, and maintain our valuable archives and historic objects collections.

Thank you for your support.

AUGUST 2019 31

2019 Voter Pamphlet Mazama Annual Meeting and Election, Oct. 7, 2019

This is your voter pamphlet for the 2019 Mazama election cycle. This year you will be voting on your three new Executive Council members and three new Nominating Committee members.

EXECUTIVE COUNCIL CANDIDATES

Rick Amodeo

Jesse Applegate

Darrin Gunkel

Jorgen Rufner

Amanda Ryan-Fear

member since 2002

member since 2012

member since 2012

member since 2009

member since 2014

EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (Board of Directors)

Voting Procedure

The Mazamas Executive Council (Board of Directors) is comprised of nine members, each serving 3 year terms. Each year members vote for 3 new members, and 3 members finish their terms. This is the current membership for the Executive Council (Executive Board), with their current positions, and term expiration dates.

E–VOTING: All Mazama members who have an email address on file with the Mazamas AND who do not opt-out of e-voting for the Mazama Annual Election, will receive an email to vote in the election on September 3. This email will include a link that is specific to you (if you share an email address with another member, you will receive two emails to that shared address, each with a unique link). You will click on this link to make your election choices. Once you have confirmed your selections you cannot change your vote. You must utilize this voting link by Oct. 7 at 1:30 p.m. No votes can be accepted after that time.

CURRENT BOARD MEMBERS Terms end Oct. 7, 2019

Terms end Oct. 5, 2020

Terms end Oct. 4, 2021

• Laura Pigion, President • Marty Scott, Vice President • Amad Doratotaj

• Keith Campbell • Laura Guderyahn, Secretary • Traci Manning, Treasurer

• Judith Baker • Joe Eberhardt • Robin Wilcox

Nominating Committee Candidates Patrick Beeson, member since 2016 Lynny Brown, member since 2015 Freda Sherburne, member since 1994 Barbara Weiss, member since 2009

VOTE BY MAIL: All Mazama members who opt-out of e-voting, or who do not have an email address on file with the Mazamas will receive a paper ballot by standard USPS mail.

This ballot will arrive around September 3, and will include a voter pamphlet, ballot, and return envelope. Make your election choices, put your ballot in the return envelope, place a stamp on the envelope, and drop it in the mail.

Paper ballots must be received by Oct. 7 at 1:30 p.m. to be counted. Ballots received after that time cannot be accepted.

If you want to opt-out of e-voting, go to this link and click on the opt-out button: mazamas.org/mazamaelection/ 32 MAZAMAS

Rick Amodeo • member since 2002 Work/Professional Experience I am a professional structural engineer licensed in 7 states and owner of a small structural engineering consulting firm. I work closely with owners, architects, contractors, developers and community organizations on various projects, primarily building structures.

I worked on the remodel/upgrade of the MMC, and have been involved in various lodge design projects. Have worked in NYC, Washington DC, LA, and have been in Portland for 30 years.

Board and/or Committee Experience with Other Organizations Italian Business Club, Oregon Building Officials Administration, American Concrete Institute, Mercy Corps professional volunteer, American Mensa volunteer, National Council of Engineering Examiners coordinator, assistant as a charitable volunteer of the Portland Open, worked with the Portland Rescue Mission and the Regional Arts and Culture Council.

Relevant Life and Leadership Experience

with various volunteer organizations and planned/coordinated many Mazama events. In the last 5 years, I have been a volunteer for the Infrastructure Group of Mercy Corps, working on design projects for Somalia, Guatemala, DRC, Nepal, Uganda, Afghanistan and other interesting places. In the last 2 years, I have traveled with Mercy Corps to work on projects in Afghanistan and the Congo, which includes design and construction of water supply facilities, and small community buildings.

Mazamas Activity Assistant for climbs, BCEP and XC tours, and have lead nearly 200 hikes. Have been a Trail Trips Committee member, Liaison to the Outings Committee and the Risk Management Committee, Chair of the Lodge Task Force, Chair of the Lodge Committee, Outing Leader, Planner, Coordinator and Leader of multiple Lodge-sponsored events including Chuckwagon Weekends, multiple RTM’s, leader of many rambles and have volunteered for trail tending.

Have hiked/climbed on 5 continents and in approximately 24 countries.

Have managed engineering firms, worked

Personal Statement It is a challenge to find time to volunteer with a full-time job, but it is rewarding to be able to support good organizations. The Mazamas are an amazing and complex organization, and have many unique issues and challenges, either internal or external, and I look forward to the opportunity to assist as much as I can and to help steer the future direction of the organization. My experience, technical and organizing skills can be an asset to the Mazama EC. Specifically, I am an advocate of more access, not less, to our beautiful mountains for all people, and am interested in developing a long-term plan for the Mazama Lodge and improving the effectiveness/usefulness of our facilities.

Jesse Applegate • member since 2012 Work/Professional Experience ▶ President and founder at Pioneer Group. ▶ Former Component Design Engineer at Intel Corp. ▶ Research and development engineer and project manager at various tech companies.

Board and/or Committee Experience in other Organizations ▶ Portland Mountain Rescue since 2016.

Fully qualified field-deployable member.

Participated in numerous search and rescue missions on Mt. Hood, the Columbia River Gorge, and Clackamas County. ▶ Hillsboro Flying Club board member since 2012. The flying club board manages the cost, maintenance, and operation of three aircraft on behalf of the 35-45 club members. I also volunteer on the yearly budgeting sub-committee that plans aircraft rates, club dues, future fleet enhancements. ▶ Hillsboro Flying Club “Plane Captain” responsible for owner-authorized maintenance on the club’s Cessna 182P.

Relevant Life and Leadership Experience ▶ Bachelor of Science, Electrical & Electronics Engineering, Oregon State University. ▶ Lane Community College Frontline Leadership Training: six module series covering basic principles for a collaborative

workplace, proactive listening, constructive feedback, giving recognition, coaching, and strategies for navigating change. ▶ US Navy veteran: • Inshore Boat Coxswain and Patrol Leader (a coxswain is the “captain” of a small boat) responsible for tactical command, including weapons release authority, of a four-person-crew port security patrol boat. Coordinated up to five inter-service patrol boats responsible for the waterborne security of military and commercial ships at overseas seaports under US military protection during the Iraq War. • Division Leading Petty Officer for communications division of an 80-person port security unit.

• Project manager for special avionics installations and maintenance on overseas reconnaissance aircraft.

Mazamas Activity ▶ ▶ ▶ ▶

E-level climb leader since 2018.

ICS Committee member since 2016.

ICS volunteer instructor since 2014.

BCEP volunteer instructor and safety officer since 2013. ▶ Portland Alpine Fest athlete host and clinic volunteer since 2016.

▶ Mazamas PhD: • Ski mountaineering 2013 • BCEP 2013 • ICS 2013–14 • ASI 2014 • AR 2017

Personal Statement People always laugh when I say the Mazamas is just like the military —the good parts, at least. I think most of the time that’s because they’re less familiar with the motivations of service members and more familiar with the popular culture stereotypes. But it’s true. We even have our own pseudo rank structure in how we categorize ourselves as “BCEP grads,” “AR grads,” climb leaders, etc. The things that motivate us are the same, however: a sense of belonging, the sharing of knowledge, mentorship, and the bond experienced by people who are challenged mentally and

AUGUST 2019 33

Darrin Gunkel • member since 2012 Work/Professional Experience ▶ Freelance writer, editor and producer for print and video media, both non-profit and corporate ▶ Science writer and lecturer for Oregon Museum of Science and Industry and Lewis and Clark College. ▶ Communications Fellow, FUSE Washington ▶ Membership, Events, and Fundraising Manager, Washington Toxics Coalition ▶ Communications Assistant, Crisis Clinic ▶ Radio News Producer/Messaging Consultant, Washington News Service ▶ City Hall/County Council Reporter, KUOW (NPR) Radio. ▶ English Teacher, American Language Center, Bangkok ▶ Canvas Director, Greenpeace USA

Board and/or Committee Experience in other Organizations Board Fund Development and Events Liaison, Washington Toxics Coalition.

Relevant Life and Leadership Experience ▶ Five years volunteering in Mazama leadership roles. ▶ Thirty years hiking and climbing in the Pacific Northwest, Central and South America, and Asia. ▶ Decades of professional science and outdoors writing.

▶ A total of four years traveling and teaching abroad. ▶ Thirty-five years non-profit management, administration, and consulting. ▶ Ten years volunteer management experience. ▶ Life-long personal and professional commitment to the environment, social justice and diversity. ▶ Life-long amateur astronomer and naturalist. ▶ Defacto, yet unofficial, leader on countless hikes in the Northwest. ▶ Active, high-level volunteer for OMSI and the Mazamas and tree-planter for Friends of Trees.

Mazamas Activity ▶ ▶ ▶ ▶

BCEP, 2014 BCEP assistant instructor, 2015 and 2016 Assistant climb leader, 2015 to present Publications Committee, 2016 to present; Chair, 2017 to present ▶ Regular contributor to Mazama Bulletin and Annual

Personal Statement The Mazamas is one of the greatest organizations I’ve had the pleasure of being involved with. And over the course of my career, I’ve worked for or with dozens of nonprofits. What stands out, after the fantastic members who do amazing things, is how well-run our organization truly is. It’s an honor to be nominated for Executive Council, to

be offered a key role in the stewardship of such a venerable piece of Oregon and Pacific Northwest history.

It’s an exciting time to be in Mazama leadership. Transition and changes in the organization are markers of its vitality. I’ve worked for several non-profits in transition; that some were successful and others were not gives me a useful vantage point to help steer our organization the right way. As does standing on the shoulders of giants who have served on the executive council over the last century and a quarter. I look forward to working for and with all of our current membership and staff, to ensure the Mazama legacy endures.

Communication is at the heart of effective leadership. Communication has been the main theme of my career, from fund raising for social services and the environment, to reporting on regional politics for NPR, to creating compelling science presentations for OMSI and Lewis and Clark College. I’d be honored to put these, and all, of my skills to work serving the Mazama staff, members, and mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains. Thanks for considering me.

Jorgen Rufner • member since 2009 Work/Professional Experience PhD Chemical Engineer & Materials Scientist who researched high temperature ceramic systems and coatings in 2005 at Montana State University. In 2007 Jorgen moved to Portland as a project engineer at LotusWorks helping manage the construction of ~$100MM wind farm projects in The Gorge as well as the H.W. Hill Landfill Gas power generation facility. In 2010 he moved to Davis, CA where he studied bulk nanostructured material processing completing his PhD. While at UC Davis Jorgen taught numerous classes and labs becoming involved in outreach and leadership for the department. He subsequently returned to Portland in 2014 as a process development engineer at Intel PTD and in 2016 moved to Vancouver continuing semiconductor work as the VP of Engineering, leading their technology development, at a wafer processing firm called IMAT, Inc.

34 MAZAMAS

Board and/or Committee Experience in other Organizations ▶ 2010–2012: GSO Departmental Representative, Department of Chemical Engineering and Materials Science at UC Davis ▶ 2013: Conference Organizing Committee Member, THERMEC2013 in Las Vegas, NV ▶ 2011–2014: Head Coordinator, Safety Committee for The Imaging Nanofunctionality Laboratory ▶ 2012–2014: President, Material Research Society (MRS) UC Davis Chapter ▶ 2014–2015: Outreach Committee Member, President’s Council of Student Advisors for the American Ceramic Society

Relevant Life and Leadership Experience ▶ 2006–2007: Engineering Ambassador, Montana State University, College of Engineering

▶ 2011–2014: Rock Climbing Guide and Instructor , UC Davis Outdoor Adventures Climbing Program ▶ 2012–2014: Winter Outdoor Guide - UC Davis Outdoor Adventures Program ▶ 2013–Present: Peer reviewer for the Journal of the American Ceramic Society

Mazamas Activity ▶ 2015 & 2016: Rock Climbing Anchor Skill Builder Volunteer Instructor/Assistant ▶ 2015–Present: ICS field session volunteer ▶ 2016–Present: Advanced Rock field session volunteer continued page 29 ▶ 2017: BCEP Horsethief sessionon safety officer

Amanda Ryan-Fear • member since 2015 Work/Professional Experience ▶ Business Process Re-engineering Consultant, 2 years ▶ Marketing Executive, 2 years ▶ High School Art and Leadership Teacher, 10 years ▶ High School Administrator, 6 years ▶ Director and Staff Member, Oregon Association of Student Councils summer camp, 4 years ▶ Interim Executive Director Forward Stride Center for Therapeutic Riding, 1 year ▶ Women’s Leadership Coaching and Surfing Retreats, just started!

Board and/or Committee Experience in other Organizations ▶ VIBE of Portland, Board Member 2012– 2014 ▶ Liberty High School Equity Team Leader (2014–2018) ▶ Hillsboro High School Equity Team Leader (2013–2014); Participant (2008–2014) ▶ Hillsboro School District Future Leaders Program (2013–2014) ▶ Coaching for Educational Equity (CFEE) Participant (Winter 2008, Ongoing) ▶ Oregon Leadership Network, District Team Member (2013–2018)

Personal Statement Jorgen’s desire to become involved in the Mazamas Executive Council resides in the combination of two of his great passions: education/lifelong learning and the outdoors. Jorgen joined the Mazamas ten years ago in search of a place to improve his skillsets allowing deeper travel into wild and adventurous places. All along doing it with like-minded folks who shared his love for the outdoors. What he found with the Mazamas was a group full of people who are dedicated towards environmental protection, desire to build the highest quality outdoor adventure training and education program in the region, while simultaneously supporting the NW climbing community from young to old. He knew that he wanted to become a part of such

Relevant Life and Leadership Experience I’ve had a variety of experiences that are relevant to this role, most of which have been listed above. I have been an educator for 15 years, having worked in a leadership role for 5 of those years. I have participated on a lot of different committees and teams and have always been an outdoor adventurer.

Mazamas Activity ▶ ▶ ▶ ▶

BCEP 2015, Eileen Kiely BCEP Volunteer 2016 , Eileen Kiely’s group Adelante Mujeres at the MMC 2015 Adventure WILD Summer Camp 2017

Personal Statement Joining the Mazamas was life-changing for me. I had always loved being outside, and BCEP gave me not only the knowledge and skills necessary to get me out safely, but also provided a network of newfound friends with similar interests. I have been able to test myself on climbs both physically and mentally and have grown a lot in the process.

I appreciate the Mazamas dual focus on conservation and community. People work to protect what they love, so by creating opportunities for people to come together in the mountains we’re creating a stronger conservation network. As more and more

a skilled and friendly bunch.

Jorgen has taken many of the offered classes from BCEP to AR and various smaller courses in between but very quickly he returned to volunteer in all of them helping share what he had learned. As a father to a 3 year old he understands the previous free time offered by members running Mazamas’ programs are its most precious asset and critical to its success. Hence why he views the Mazamas2020 initiative as such a positive step. It showed the organization taking a serious survey of its weaknesses as seen by its members and trying to fill those gaps. Being a part of the Executive Council allows Jorgen to aid in successfully achieving those goals and beyond.

people participate in outdoor recreation we have more opportunity and responsibility to educate them about safety and conservation.

As an Executive Council member I will work hard to support the Mazamas mission and vision, to serve as an ambassador for the organization, and to lend advice and expertise to Mazama leadership when needed. I am especially drawn to the focus on equitable access for all to our programs and to expand the reach of the Mazamas to diverse communities. I have a background in recreation for people who are differently abled and bring an equity lens to whatever I do. I plan to support and lead the organization as we create an even more diverse and inclusive community of differing gender, racial, and physical identities.

Thank you for considering voting for me, I truly appreciate the opportunity to give back to an organization that has helped me grow so much.

Jesse Applegate, continued from page 27 physically when they depend on each other literally for their lives.

The camaraderie from these bonds is special. It’s organic, ethereal, and very powerful. It’s what motivates me.

I see the Mazamas as currently experiencing an identity crisis: are we a business or a social organization? From my perspective we’re both, but primarily a social organization made of mostly volunteers who are motivated by their shared experiences of personal growth and camaraderie. I’m running for Executive Council because I want to be a part of the process steering the organization, to offer my input as an advisor on how I think the organization should change in the context of what motivates people to be a part of it, and to improve communication with the membership on what any changes are and why they’re being implemented. I want the Mazamas to be leaders in the community as technical experts, progressive ambassadors, and stewards.

Please note: Executive Council Candidate information has been standardized to fit a certain format, however no editing has been done. Other than formatting, the information is provided exactly as submitted by the candidates.

AUGUST 2019 35

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

AUGUST FEATURE EVENT: AYM ANNUAL LABOR DAY TRIP, AUG. 30–SEPT. 2

WANT TO BE FEATURED ON THE AYM INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT? TAG @AYMPDX IN YOUR PHOTOS OF MAZAMA ADVENTURES!

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K

eeping with tradition, the AYM Labor Day trip will head far from Portland, this year to the heart of Deschutes National Forest south of Bend.

Participants will have the opportunity to explore incredibly unique and off-the-beaten path locations including Paulina Lake, the Newberry Volcano, and Crack in the Ground. Look for registration to open sometime in mid to late July on mazamas.org. Don't miss out on the chance to join us on this trip! Signup online at mazamas.org/AYM/

Check the website at mazamas.org/AYM and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted.

Above: In July, AYM Hike Leader Matt Reeder led a beautiful hike to Hawk Mountain. Photos by Caitlyn Atwood (Instagram: atwood_outdoors).

MAZAMA OUTINGS National and International Adventures of 3 days or more.

TECHNICAL SLOT CANYONEERING IN UTAH OCTOBER 9–14 LEADER: VAQAS MALIK Join us for an outing to explore the hidden world of slot canyons in Robber Roost and North Wash areas in Central Utah. This outing is an intermediate level canyoneering outing.

The route we will be attempting are technical which requires rope work and climbing. For participants some canyoneering training or past canyoneering experience is desirable. The minimum requirement is to have rock anchor building skills and the ability to setup/perform rappels. Also required for participants is to be able to climb at least 5.7 rock and the ability to cope with climbing in very tight places.

The group size for this outing is 8 including the leaders. We will fly to Salt Lake City from PDX. From there we will travel to the town of Hanksville (Utah). We will be car camping. The cost estimate for participants is $500, which does not include food and round trip airfare between Portland and Salt Lake City.

You can now apply for Mazama Outings on our website.

Go to mazamas.org/outings to view all outings. When you apply, you will be prompted to complete your profile, and you’ll enter credit card information. If accepted, your credit card will be charged for the trip deposit, and you will then be sent an invoice for the remainder of the outing cost. This invoice can be paid by credit card or check.

Apply online at mazamas.org/outings

AUGUST 2019 37

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. Hike leaders, to schedule a hike next month, go to: mazamas.org, login, and schedule.

UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED, ALL HIKES LISTED BELOW ARE AVAILABLE FOR SIGNUP ON OUR WEBSITE! HEAD ON OVER TO MAZAMAS.ORG/HIKING TO GET MORE DETAILS. FIND THE HIKE YOU WANT TO GO ON, CLICK ON THE LINK, AND FOLLOW THE SIGNUP PROMPTS.

HK B2.5 Friday, Aug. 2. Paradise Park ( from Timberline Lodge). Leader: Eric Hall, erichall@q.com, 503-236-5834. We'll start our hike at 6,000 feet. Heading west from Timberline Lodge, we'll do some ups, do some downs, a couple of zigs, a couple of zags, a stream crossing or two, and arrive at the sprawling alpine meadows of Paradise Park. 12 miles, 2,300 ft. MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

HK B2.5 Sunday, Aug. 4. Kings Mountain. Leader: Ken Park, kjpark96@ gmail.com, 503-896-1336. Steep but well maintained trail with great view of coastal range from top. Hiking poles a must for hike down. Elevation gain of 2,500 feet over 2.5 miles. 5 miles, 2,500 ft. 70 miles round-trip. Target & SW 185th at 7 a.m.

MeetUp. HK A1.5 Tuesday, Aug. 6. Sleeping Beauty. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@ comcast.net, 503-658-5710. You will view five volcanoes from the top. 3.2 miles round trip. 1,410 ft. of elevation gain. Near Mt. Adams. Appx. 2 hour drive each way.

MMC Parking Lot at 9 a.m.

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 ft. elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 ft. elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ ft. elevation gain.

Class D: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contacting leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

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HK B2 Wednesday, Aug. 7. Gales Creek (Storey Burn Loop). Leader: Tony Spiering, aespiering@gmail.com, 503680-8112. Nice hike in the Oregon Coast area on mostly well maintained trails in a shaded valley. Forest setting with Douglas Firs, Alder and lots of wonderful sword ferns including a small waterfall. Lunch on a small stream. 8 miles, 1,400 ft. 100 miles round-trip. Target & SW 185th at 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 Wednesday Aug. 7. Salmon Butte Hike. Leader: Dyanne Foster, dyfozter@gmail.com, 503-267-8937.

The Salmon Butte Trail #791 is one of the more popular trails in the SalmonHuckleberry Wilderness, but the hike got longer by about 2 miles and gained more elevation with the decommissioning of FR 2618 in 2010. Like other SalmonHuckleberry Wilderness trails, the optimal time to visit is on a clear day in June, when the rhododendrons, beargrass, and other wildflowers are in full bloom and the views from the summit of Salmon Butte stretch from Mt. Rainier to the Three Sisters. After the initial road walk, this is mostly a shady forest hike.

Let's hike this moderate trail for fabulous 360 degree views from the summit. 11.7 miles, 3,100 ft. 90 miles round-trip. MMC Parking Lot at 7:30 a.m.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

Hike fees/Snowshoe/Nordic Costs: $2 for members, $4 nonmembers; Backpack Costs: Vary depending on trip.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry

HK 2.5 Saturday, Aug. 10. Yocum Ridge with peak flowers. Leader: Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@gmail.com, 503-830-0817. Epic adventurous hike to one of the most impressive backcountry flower experiences in Oregon. From Ramona Falls, we'll ascend a ramp-like trail to a stupendous viewpoint. Then we'll go as high as 7,200 ft. for an even closer view of Mt. Hood. We're meeting early and moving fast. Bring camera, hat, and sunscreen. 21 mi., 4,800 ft., Drive 81. Gateway Park & Ride at 5 a.m.

MeetUp. HK C2.5 Saturday, Aug. 10. Table Mountain Loop. Leader: Ken Park, kjpark96@gmail.com, 503-896-1336.

Long grueling hike but great views from top. The last 2 miles are the most difficult part of hike. Please bring 3 liters of water. Hiking poles helpful for hike down. Will need Northwest Forest Pass to park at trailhead. 15.5 miles round trip, 4,320 ft. elevation gain. Gateway Park & Ride at 7 a.m.

MeetUp.

and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage.–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver.

99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes, and

carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

MT. TABOR RAMBLES, WEDNESDAYS, 6 P.M. AT THE MMC Ramblers will leave from the front steps of the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 6 p.m. and walk as a group to the top of Mt. Tabor, where participants will have the option of walking around the paved circle for up to 30 minutes or taking a rest break as needed. In the past, when returning to the MMC some participants have chosen to stop for dinner/ refreshments at the food carts along Belmont. Suggested items to carry/ wear include a bright shirt/jacket, flashlight or headlamp, rain protection, comfortable shoes, and money for food and/or beverages.

HK B2.5 Sunday, Aug. 11. McNeil Point Hike. Leader: Bruce Giordano, brucegiord32@gmail.com, 503-477-6013.

Should be some lovely wildflowers as well as great views of Mt. Hood. We will likely take the "climbers trail" on the way up which is rather steep but cuts about a half mile off the hike. Planning to leave Gateway at 7 a.m. so you should arrive at least 10 minutes early to allow time to arrange carpools. 10.4 miles, 1,900 ft. 110 miles round-trip. Gateway Park & Ride at 7 a.m.

HK B2 Tuesday, Aug. 13. Saddle Mountain Hike. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@comcast.net, 503-658-5710.

Mountaintop views that reach from the Pacific Ocean to Mt. Hood await you on this steep climb to the top of a doublepeaked summit of basalt. The upper part of the mountain is decorated with vast steep wildflower meadows in summer. 7.2 miles, 1,500 ft. 96 miles round-trip. MMC Parking Lot at 9 a.m. MeetUp. HK 2.5 Saturday, Aug. 17. AYM: Yocum Ridge Picnic. Leader: Toby Creelan, tyler.creelan@gmail.com, 503-929-6233.

Come along for a daylong expedition up Mount Hood's quietest and most beautiful flank. We'll hike to Ramona Falls, stop for a break and then begin our ascent up the ridge to gorgeous meadows and spectacular views on all sides. Prepare for a strenuous long day with some of the most beautiful scenery in Oregon. Bring food for a picnic at the top! Moderate fitness required. Pace = 1,000 ft. elevation per hour. As this is a Wilderness Area, hike will be capped at 10 hikers or fewer.

READY TO SIGN UP ONLINE?

Many hikes have limited spots available. Signup online today to secure your spot.

Are you a first time user? Go to mazamas.org/gettingstarted to learn how to create your account. It’s simple, and should take no more than 5 minutes to get up and running. Please review the information at mazamas.org/gettingstarted carefully before creating your account. If you still have questions after reading the information, email us at help@mazamas.org.

Exploratory. ~17 miles, 3,800 feet elevation gain. *For perspective, the pink tower downtown is 40 stories and ~500 ft. tall.

Hike elevation approximates walking up the tower 8 times. Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) offers outdoor activities year-round targeted to adults in their 20s & 30s. Activities are open to everyone eighteen and over who can safely participate in our events. 17.4 miles, 3,800 ft. 92 miles round-trip. MMC Parking Lot at 6:30 a.m.

HK B2 Tuesday, Aug. 20. Cape Horn Dog Friendly Hike. Leader: Don McCoy, donald1020@aol.com, 503-246-7416.

This is one of the closest Gorge trails to the Portland-Vancouver metro area.

It features gorgeous views, rocky crags, streams and two waterfalls. The lower loop opens up on July 15. Leashed, welltrained dogs are welcome, but you don't need a dog to attend. We will meet at MMC at 8 a.m. or at the Cape Horn Trailhead at 8:45 a.m. The distance is 7.4 miles with 1,350 elevation gain. The drive to the trailhead is 60 miles round trip.

MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Tuesday, Aug. 20. Harry's Ridge. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@ comcast.net, 503-658-5710. 8 miles, 1,000 ft. elevation gain, views of the Mt. St. Helens Crater and Spirit lake. MMC Parking Lot at 9 a.m.

HK B2.5 Friday, Aug. 23. McNeil Point (Top Spur to Tie-In). Leader: Eric Hall, erichall@q.com, 503-236-5834. Up the Top Spur Trail to the Timberline Trail and around Bald Mountain with views of Mt. Hood's west face. Hike along Bald Mountain Ridge, past alpine meadows and reflecting ponds, and on up to McNeil Point. 10 miles, 2,100 ft. 110 miles roundtrip. MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

HK B2.5 Wednesday, Aug. 28. Chinidere and Tomlike Mountains Loop. Leader: Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@gmail. com, 971-832-2556. A loop hike near Whatum Lake to two summits, with great views of Mts. Hood and Adams, and the Gorge. Meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. 7 Miles, 2,000 ft.

Drive 176 miles, round-trip. MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

HK B2.5 Friday, Sept. 20. Table Rock.

Leader: Alice Broucum, alicevivianb@ gmail.com, 503-821-6454. Table Rock is a 4,881-foot remnant of the Old Cascades jutting above the Camp Creek and Table Rock Fork of the Molalla River drainages and buttressed by sheer cliffs of lichensplashed columnar basalt. Much of the route described here was ravaged by fire in the 1880s, but a lush mature coniferous forest now cloaks the slopes. In addition to panoramic views, we will have close-up views of two ages of rocks: 17-10 millionyear-old andesite at base and 4 myo basalt at summit. Pikas have been heard on the talus slopes, and white gentians seen along the trail in fall. 7.2 miles, 1,500 ft.

130 miles round-trip. MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

AUGUST 2019 39

Mazama Conservation Committee

Introducing Mazamas conservation partner Oregon Physicians for Social Responsibility. The Mazamas have supported Oregon Physicians for Social Responsiblity through our conservation grant program.

HEALTHY CLIMATE ACTION TEAM

OREGON PHYSICIANS FOR SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

by Regna Merritt

CURBING OIL TRAINS

Oregon Physicians for Social Responsibility (PSR) provides the voice of public health as we succeed in work to halt and/or delay massive fossil fuel projects that threaten our region.

Working with regional and local coalitions, Oregon PSR helps build a powerful movement to defend the health of our communities and our climate. We depend on, and are grateful for, partners such as the Mazamas as we continue to pursue our shared goals.

Here are three critical issues we are tracking:

We likewise support the Stand Up to Oil coalition in delaying and/or denying any, and all, proposals for oil-by-rail facilities in our region. We celebrated when the Tesoro project, which would have been the largest oil-by-rail project in the country, was denied, and when a lease at the Port of Vancouver was terminated in 2018. We’re now fighting tar sands and crude oil shipments to the Zenith terminal in northwest Portland and potential oil-by-rail shipments to Global Partners near Clatskanie. We continue work at local and state levels to improve oil train safety.

SAYING ‘NO’ TO COAL

FOCUS ON FRACKING

regon PSR supports the Power Past Coal coalition in delaying O and/or denying any and all proposals for coal export facilities in our region. To date, not a single new coal export facility in the Pacific Northwest has been constructed. While five permits have been denied for the Millennium Bulk Terminals project in Longview, Washington, legal battles continue at county, state, and federal levels.

If this project were approved, 16 uncovered coal trains (each 1.3 miles long) would move in and out of Longview each day, transporting 44 million tons of coal from the Powder River Basin and the Uinta Basin. Coal would be stored on the banks of the Columbia River in uncovered piles 8 stories high and 40 football fields wide.

In response, Oregon PSR engaged in an intense, multi-year study of health impacts. We worked with county health officers, professional medical organizations, doctors, nurses and other health professionals to produce fact sheets, provide technical assistance, and submit public comments and media that underscored the multiple threats to Tribal Nations, low-income residents and communities of color near the proposed coal terminal. Health professionals generated positive media, helping to sway public opinion.

Concluding a three-year process, Cowlitz County officials released its final Health Impact Assessment (HIA) in November 2018. The report demonstrates the serious adverse public health impacts of the proposed Millennium Bulk Terminals project in Longview neighborhoods near the proposed terminal and facilities along the BNSF rail line in the county. The document underscores the potential negative impacts to communities already experiencing significant health disparities.

The majority of the HIA Steering Committee found that “there is very little that could realistically be done to prevent harm to health and safety should the proposed terminal be approved. A majority of the Steering Committee members do not support the project and recommend the proposed terminal project not go forward.”

40 MAZAMAS

We support the Power Past Fracked Gas coalition to ensure that human health and safety issues are considered in all decisions related to fossil fuel plans that threaten the Columbia River and the Pacific Northwest. We collected the voice of thousands of health professionals and public health advocates to oppose fracked gas projects, and helped delay a decision on the largest fracked-gas-to-methanol facility in the world.

BUILDING ON SUCCESS Trusted health professionals and public health advocates can generate positive media and sway public opinion. Health and safety concerns, including those related to our climate crisis, have proven to be an excellent backstop for agency and elected decision-maker denials of fossil fuel export proposals.

Oregon PSR and coalition partners have experienced remarkable success in staving off threats posed by new fossil fuel infrastructure—while building a dynamic movement for clean and 100% sustainable energy. This is how we protect our communities and ultimately reverse our climate crisis.

WHAT CAN A MAZAMA DO? or further information about F Oregon Physicians for Social Responsibility and ways to support its campaigns, including action alerts and volunteering, go to: www.oregonpsr.org/

Choquequirao

The Other Incan Citadel Kevin Machtelinckx

$25

for a taxi to Ollantaytambo. $150 for round trip train tickets to Aguas Calientes. $30 for a room in Aguas Calientes. $30 for a round trip bus ticket from Aguas Calientes to the site. All that to get to the gates of Machu Picchu and plunk down another $55 for an entrance ticket. Plus food. Plus the hordes of tourists. And then the hawkers peddling their wares. I shuddered. “What am I, made of money?” I glanced at my wallet sitting on the desk beside me and heard it whimper in agreement.

continued on next page Top: Choquequirao’s notable “crop top” hill stands proudly over the valley. Right: The landslide that had taken out the bridge. Note the trail zigzagging up the opposite side of the canyon. Photo: Kevin Machtelinckx

AUGUST 2019 41

Citadel, continued from previous page I could hear folks back home already.

“You went to Peru and you didn’t go to Machu Picchu???” I cringed at the prospect of having that conversation over and over again, justifying my stingy post-college spending habits. I once had a contest with a Frenchman in La Paz, Bolivia to find the cheapest almuerzo (lunch) near the prosthetics clinic where we volunteered.

1.5 Bolivianos, about $0.2 USD, had been my personal best and I returned to the clinic confident in my victory. Christophe stood in the doorway with a big grin on his face. “1 Boliviano,” he proclaimed with typical French nonchalance. I admitted defeat until a week later when I realized I hadn’t seen Christophe since his gastronomic triumph. The clinic director shook her head in concern when I inquired. “At the American hospital.

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Something wrong with his stomach.” I think that technically gave me the victory, which brought me a bit of joy to accompany the sympathy I felt for the guy.

Yet now, sitting in the small room I rented in the heart of Cuzco’s San Blas neighborhood, I leaned back in my chair contemplating the best use of my dwindling travel funds. What was it that I actually wanted to get out of going to Machu Picchu? I’m no history or architecture buff. I’m not a bucket list kind of guy. I’m not interested in visiting a place just to compare my tally with those of other travelers. What’s more, I have an aversion to catered and guided tours. Years in the mountains have taught me that I feel the most fulfilled when I’ve earned

something as opposed to being spoon-fed an experience that simulates the feeling of effort without actually breaking a sweat.

What I craved was to wander the folds of the Andes, immersed in their splendor and, if it happened that I found myself on one of the myriad ancient Inca trails that crisscross the Andes, all the better. I wanted the feeling of arriving at an ancient Inca citadel to be as authentic as possible.

To have achieved it under my own power and of my own volition. To get as near to the feeling of novelty that Hiram Bingham must have felt when he stumbled upon Machu Picchu.

The colectivo groaned to a stop in San Pedro de Cachora’s sleepy central plaza.

The journey had taken four bumpy and

Clockwise from left: A first glimpse of Incan ruins. Choquequirao’s central plaza. Rounding a corner unveils a staggeringly beautiful vista. A mule team heads upward. Photos: Kevin Machtelinckx

winding hours from Cuzco, including a 3am start. I happily stepped out of the cramped van and into the heavy morning fog enveloping the small village. I scanned the streets for a tienda to buy the last of my supplies. Three days and 11,000-feet of elevation gain lay between me and the lost Incan citadel of Choquequirao.

The Cradle of Gold, as it is otherwise known, floats high above the Apurimac Valley. Thousands of feet below, the Apurimac River winds its way below the ancient city and flows with emerald hues, tinted by minerals from the glacial meltwaters of the soaring peaks scraping the sky above. Historians believe Choquequirao was a 15th and 16th century political, social, and economic hub built by

the Incan empire and serving as a gateway between the Amazon and the city of Cuzco.

Its difficult access, requiring an arduous hike, means that it receives no more than 20-30 visitors on a busy day. Considering Machu Picchu can see upwards of 5,000 each day, Choquequirao was a no-brainer for me.

Seven miles in, I stood at the Mirador Capuliyoc, peering down to the valley floor 3,000 feet below. The overall distance of the trek is almost insignificant when compared to the elevation gain. Although the outand-back from Cachora is usually done in four days, I had told myself three would be enough and had packed food for as many.

As I analyzed the switchbacks plastering the other flank of the valley, the first

inkling of doubt flitted through my mind.

The formidable topography in the Andes leads to interesting microclimates.

I had donned a fleece sweater at the pass as the valley’s large vertical temperature gradient caused gusting thermals to move upward from the valley floor. Over the next several hours I descended thousands of feet along switchbacks lined with menacing cacti. Every thousand feet brought several additional degrees of heat and much less wind with which to cool off.

By the time I reached the river at Playa Rosalina in the afternoon, the world around me had turned into an oven. The same sun that had offered a comforting

continued on next page AUGUST 2019 43

Clockwise, from top: Choquequirao looms over the Apurimac Valley. One of the casualties of the trail. Red hues are a testament to the minerals found in this region. Photos: Kevin Machtelinckx.

Citadel, continued from previous page respite from the chilling winds at the pass now baked the sand and rocks I walked along. A couple guides and their clients hunkered down under the singular shelter found near the river. Cruelly, the raging water remained inaccessible due to its steep and loose embankments. Swarms of sand flies took advantage of the exhausted human heaps to draw tired blood.

I leaned against a wall of the shelter and stared upward at the switchbacks awaiting my ascent toward my destination of Santa Rosa Baja. In order to make my three day deadline, I had planned to get as far along the trail as possible on the first day. Now, with 14 miles of hiking and a four hour ride under my belt, the idea of climbing another three miles in suffocating 44 MAZAMAS

heat with a 50-lb pack seemed less than ideal.

But, considering my current circumstances in which I had become the sand-flies’ main food source, I opted to cross the river and push on.

A landslide earlier in the year had annihilated the bridge spanning the Apurimac. What stood in its place was a perverse Tyrolean traverse-gondola hybrid with a heavy steel cart attached to a cable. Each side of the cart was tethered to either bank by a rope with which to pull yourself along.

Objectively, the system was ingenious. I

quickly withdrew my judgement when I found myself in an immobile cart half way and at the lowest point of the span. The builders of the contraption hadn’t fully thought about the weight of the cart and its contents, which caused the improperly tensioned cable to sag under the load. I

now had to pull myself, my gear, and the weight of my cart, up the remaining inclined portion of the span. With no one on the other bank to help with pulling, I used what seemed like the last of my energy to haul myself to the other side.

Exhausted, I collected myself on the far bank before starting up the switch backs and, an hour later, stumbled into Santa Rosa Baja. A man in his mid-30’s with a cane limped over to me. Julian, the caretaker of the small camping area, led me to one of the level grassy spots that overlooked the valley. A stream flowed through the site, coming from the steep slopes above and tumbling into the abyss below.

For half an hour I struggled to set up the tent I had rented in Cuzco. “$2 per day?! Can’t go wrong with that!” Or so I had thought when I jumped on the deal. Now, in the middle of an ancient Inca valley with sand flies swarming, my mind raced through the various reasons why I wasn’t able to get this tent set up. I must be so exhausted that I’m overlooking something.

The altitude isn’t allowing me to think clearly. Maybe the sand flies got more blood than I thought? Had I somehow gotten my engineering degree from some pseudo-science, for-profit university without knowing it and had now lost so much IQ that I am unable to set up a basic shelter? Something isn’t right with these poles ... Oh ... As I connected the poles through the tent loops, it became obvious they were meant for a different tent body.

I sat back and cursed at the bastardized conglomerate of fabric and fiberglass that I would call my shelter. Half of the tent body looked like the free-flowing folds of a wedding dress, while the other half was so taut from incorrect pole lengths that I was sure the slightest movement would set the contraption off like a mouse trap.

Julian and I sat around at dinner conversing about the valley, Incan history, life, family, and my tent. At one point deep in conversation about tourism and local politics, I paused. A fleeting sensation of satisfaction passed through me as I became cognizant of the fact that my Spanish fluency had achieved a level where I no longer had to think about conjugations and pronunciations. Instead, words and verb endings flowed seamlessly into and out of the conversation, much like the stream that ambled along a few

feet away. That night I went to sleep with a renewed sense of harmony, fulfilment, and a slight breeze over my legs which hung outside a kids’ size tent.

The morning air hung still and cold as I gained elevation quickly. Julian had convinced me to leave my gear with him and do a long out-and-back to the Choquequirao archaeological site the following day. With a lightened load, my bug bite-peppered legs covered ground swiftly. As I rounded a corner, I perceived horizontal cuts in the flank of a ridgeline on the opposite side of the canyon. First one, then three, then dozens more began to appear in a series of evenly-spaced level areas; the famous Incan terraces I’d read so much about. As the mist broke up, I saw larger areas of cleared forest above the terraces. The angular shapes of Incan architecture broke up the monotony of thick vegetation.

Within an hour I was walking along the terraces admiring the meticulouslyplaced boulders that typify the ancient civilization’s construction style. Smaller stones, lighter in color, were arranged in the shape of llamas. Ahead of me, the main site jutted out into the valley, situated at the high point of a long ridge. Beyond the various stone structures and open areas lay the culminating feature of the site: a large hill with a summit that had been leveled off and protruded starkly in the thin Andean air. A place for ceremonies, celebrations, and sacrifices.

A small man in a straw hat and tattered clothes materialized next to me. His leathery hand clutched a clipboard with a handful of names and numbers on it.

Through a mouthful of missing teeth he asked for my name, passport number, and $5, the entrance fee to the park. I happily handed over the money and proceeded forward through a rock portal leading to a mesmerizing main plaza.

I spent the afternoon lurking through ancient stone edifices, some of which have been rebuilt and others still showcasing the original construction. The main site straddles a narrow arête, with secondary sites adorning either side. Further down below these secondary outposts, terraces unfolded spectacularly downward like the rungs of a ladder hugging impossibly steep hillsides. Sitting at a viewpoint overlooking one of these structures, I pondered why such giant staircases had been constructed

by a people with supposedly such small stature. Then again, who was I to be questioning construction techniques as someone who nearly lost his mind attempting to put up a simple shelter the night before?

The day drew older and the shadows of the ancient buildings stretched longer.

High above me, an Andean condor floated amongst the warm thermals. Far below the tumbling terraces, the Apurimac still raged with striking greens and blues. As I played with the idea of returning back into the undulating topography of the forest, it occurred to me that the flat, open areas of Choquequirao offered relief from the dramatic verticality of the world amongst which the site was built. In fact, life in the abyssal valleys seemed to be predicated upon the ability of men to tame their verticality by establishing areas of horizontal reprieve.

Verticality. I mulled over this idea while on the trail back to Santa Rosa Baja. Verticality in hiking, in climbing, in biking. Verticality in academia, in learning languages, in my engineering career. Verticality in my relationships.

Verticality in self-actualization. It seemed to me that it was this desire to willingly undertake verticality, to experience the inevitable failures associated with it, and to ultimately arrive at the intermediate horizontal spaces along those verticals, that defined my character.

Before dozing off under another starry Incan sky, I wondered if Machu Picchu would have offered me the same kind of realizations. I chose not to dwell on the ‘ifs’. Choquequirao and its tucked-away lair in the creases of the Andean range gave me insight that I hadn’t even realized I was seeking. My eyelids grew heavy as I meditated on the climbs that awaited me the next day, in the next months, and in the next years of my life. Verticality had defined the landscapes of my past, it surrounded me in the present in which I slept, and I fell asleep welcoming the certainty that verticals would characterize the landscapes of my future.

AUGUST 2019 45

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting is on Tuesday, August 20. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication.

Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting by sending an email to adventure@mazamas.org and making a request.

by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager President Laura Pigion called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 4 p.m. on Tuesday, July 16. Laura noted the focus of the meeting would be around guidance and direction for bylaws updates, understanding progress made by the DEI (Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion) Working Group, understanding progress made with committees on Roles & Responsibilities, providing feedback on budget planning for fiscal year 2020, and aligning on next steps in the Executive Director search. Following approval of the revised agenda, Laura received approval for the June minutes.

Laura also noted that membership, as of the end of June, stands at 3,479. Treasurer Traci Manning gave an overview of the May financials. Total operating revenue was $925,089, with operating expenses of $1,222,984. Assets were $594,383. Both income and expenses are tracking under budget.

Board member Robin Wilcox and Claire Nelson, Youth and Outreach Manager, gave an update on the DEI working group. The group met with members of the Advanced Rock, Intermediate Climbing School, and BCEP subcommittees to discuss the DEI initiative. Next steps for the group include a review of the mazamas.org website and researching training opportunities.

Treasurer Traci Manning and Claire Nelson then gave an update on the committee roles and responsibilities work they are leading. Working with Tim Scott and Board member Laura Guderyahn they have met with some committees to discuss the roles and responsibilities between the board, committees, and staff. Next steps include reaching out to more committees and continuing the conversation around strengthening relationships.

In her Acting Executive Director Report, Sarah Bradham gave a brief update on staffing and upcoming events.

Renee Fitzpatrick’s, Finance & Admin Coordinator, last day was June 30. In future events, a weekend of activities for the Mazamas' 125th Anniversary is coming

46 MAZAMAS

up on July 19–21, and a 125th Anniversary Open House at the MMC on July 28. The Portland Alpine Fest Summit is Saturday, November 16.

In internal reporting, Sarah attended the MQL Project Executive and Education team meeting to discuss timelines, licensing agreements, and marketing the project. The Mazamas stand out among the participating organizations for their high level of volunteer engagement.

President Laura Pigion and Sarah met with Mazamas Foundation member Keith Thomajan to discuss funding for the fiscal year 2020. The Foundation agreed to defer both the Lodge renovation loan and the Hague Estate for five and four years, respectively. They also agreed to suspend interest on the Lodge loan during that time. At their next meeting, the Foundation will review Sarah’s proposal for the management of estate gifts.

For upcoming events, the Mazama125 challenge is underway, and we are prepping activity leaders for activities over July 19–21. Mathew Brock is leading the planning for the Celebration event on July 28. Portland Alpine Fest planning is mostly on track, and we have confirmed a keynote speaker and venue. Sarah and Kelsey attended the Outdoor Retailers Show where they met with current and potential partners. The Lodge Ski Hill Lights fundraising campaign was successful and should be looked at as a model for other fundraising projects in the future.

In external reporting, Sarah noted that Oregon Outdoors members are paying their dues invoices. A discussion ensued about the Mazamas continued fiscal sponsorship role in the organization. The board would like to see the creation of an MOU before we begin our next fiscal year, as well as a defined path to financial sustainability.

President Laura Pigion gave an update on the Executive Director transition planning. Working with the consultant from the Valtas Group, the Transition Team

met on June 20 to review the top twelve candidates and identified seven candidates to move forward with phone interviews.

The Transition Team and the consultant participated in phone interviews with the top seven candidates on June 27–28 and identified the top four candidates to invite for in-person interviews. In early July the Transition teamand staff conducted separate in-person interviews with the four finalists. The full board will now review the feedback on the finalist candidates and make a decision. Following acceptance of an offer, negotiations will begin on workable start dates.

Laura Pigion then led the board in a discussion on the glaciated peak membership requirement and other updates to the Mazama bylaws.

Referencing Marty Hanson's Facebook post within the Mazamas Climbing Forum on the subject that solicited close to sixty comments, Laura noted there are a variety of opinions across the membership. Potential options discussed include freezing the peak requirement at some date in the past, doing away with the requirement altogether, or updating the requirement and keeping the high alpine restriction. The board consensus was that this topic should be brought to membership more broadly, to inform a potential proposal to update the bylaws in 2020. Laura Pigion and Robin Wilcox agreed to lead a working group composed of board members, staff, and the membership to explore the issue further.

Judith Baker will head up a working group to review the other potential issues with our current bylaws.

No members chose to speak during the member comment period. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, August 20 at 4 p.m.

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PORTLAND ALPINE FEST

Nov. 11–17, 2019

Ticket Sales Open: Sept. 4 Mark your calendar now!

The Summit, Nov. 16 at the Redd (SE Portland) Speaker: Legendary climber, to be announced Sept. 1

Presented by Grivel. Hosted by the Mazamas. portlandalpinefest.org