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FEATURES Welcome to our New Executive Director: Mitsu Iwasaki, p. 4 Adventure CLIMB, p. 9 Portland Alpine Fest, p. 10 Hans Fuhrur Ice Axe, p. 12 Reaching for North Sister, p. 14 125 Celebration, p. 20 A History of Mazamas Conservation in 5 Events, p. 24 Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion at the Mazamas, p. 29 Oregon's Forest Practices Act, p. 32 Smith Rock Cimbers' Ranch Update, p.35 MONTHLY CONTENT Upcoming Activities, p. 6 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 7 Evening Travel Programs, p. 8 Successful Climbers, p. 18 Mazama Library, p. 19 Mazama Lodge, p. 22
Membership Report, p. 23 Saying Goodbye, p. 23 Classics, p. 28 AYM, p. 30 Trail Trips, p. 36 Executive Council, p. 38
ADVERTISER INDEX Rab, p. 2 Davis Financial, p. 29 Embark Exploration, p. 31 Green Trails Maps, p. 39 Mountain Shop, p. 40
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):
Next Adventure, p. 28 Vaqas Malik Photography, p. 7 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising
Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 am.–7 pm.; Fri. 10 am.–2 pm.
MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028; Phone: 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Sun. Noon
MITSU IWASAKI Executive Director mitsuiwasaki@mazamas.org
SARAH BRADHAM Operations Director sarah@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@ mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@ mazamas.org TIM SCOTT Education & IT Support timscott@mazamas.org KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facillities@mazamas.org
Cover: Mazama climb team on the East Ridge of Pinnacle Peak in Mt. Rainier National Park. Back row: Chris LeDoux, Leader, Jessica Lemons, Michelle Lin, Robin Wilcox, Assistant. Front row: Eli Goodwin, Liz Garrity. Photo: Ondie Ogston. Above: Karly Osten representing the Mazamas at the Mazama booth during the Mazamas 125 event on July 28. Photo: Ralph Daub.
PUBLICATIONS TEAM Editor: Sarah Bradham, Bulletin Editor, (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Lindsey Garner, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, and Katie Polanshek (publications@ mazamas.org)
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Executive Council Announces New Executive Director: Welcome Mitsu Iwasaki! by Laura Pigion, Mazama President
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he Executive Council has completed the search for a new Executive Director and I am thrilled to announce that Mitsu Iwasaki will be joining the Mazamas on August 30, 2019. Mitsu brings extensive experience as a leader in the outdoor industry as well as a lifetime of demonstrated passion for the mountains. We are excited for him to step into this role to lead the Mazamas forward, and to set the stage for the next 125 years and beyond. "I feel the greatest sense of gratitude and responsibility for this opportunity to lead an iconic organization and its members, the Mazamas. With my identity forged in high mountain places, stewarding our collective mission to inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains speaks to me deeply." -Mitsu Mitsu arrives at the Mazamas with nearly three decades of experience in the outdoor industry. His career started in 1996 as an assistant instructor for Outward Bound. From there, he spent the next ten years working as an instructor and guide, climbing, skiing, and traversing mountains and mountain ranges from the Southern Sierras to the North Cascades. Transitioning from field-based to administrative roles, he has been the Director for Operations and Safety for Big City Mountaineers in Denver, Colorado, Executive Director for Northwest Outward Bound School in Portland, Oregon, and most recently served as Interim CEO for the Association for Experiential Education, and as a Partner at the Outdoor Policy Outfit based in Seattle. In addition to his professional roles, Mitsu has been very active in our local and national community as a board and
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committee member with organizations such as Outward Bound, Big City Mountaineers, American Leadership Forum, Friends of Gateway Green, Paradox Sports, and the Free Forest School, among many others. Mitsu brings professional experience in the nonprofit sector with exposure to teaching and instruction, program development and evaluation, operations, safety, finance, budgeting, fundraising, and board relations. He has extensive experience in conservation, outdoor education, training climbers, youth outreach, and development. When not in the office, Mitsu can be found climbing, running, and skiing high peaks in the Northwest and around the world. As Mitsu gets started in his role, we will be announcing opportunities for you to meet and get to know him. Please stay
tuned for announcements to follow in the Bulletin and E-News. The Mazamas owes a huge debt of gratitude to Sarah Bradham for her contributions as Acting Executive Director from December 2018–August 2019. Sarah’s professionalism, skills, experience, and dedication to the Mazamas kept the organization steady during this time of transition. Sarah will continue to serve as Acting ED through the end of August, before returning to her role as Director of Operations. She will be working closely with Mitsu to ensure a smooth transition. The Transition Team will stay intact during the Onboarding Process; for any questions please feel free to reach out to transition@mazamas.org. We look forward to staying in touch with more updates as Mitsu joins the team.
A NOTE FROM MITSU
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am incredibly honored and humbled for the opportunity to serve as your next Executive Director.
As a person driven by curiosity and an impulse for adventure, I have explored the mountains for nearly 30 years. Like many of you, through countless days and nights in wild places with my closest friends and climbing partners, I have cultivated a community of climbers and mountain people that I hold most dear. Through our experiences in the mountains, I believe we can learn to tap the depth of human capacity. My most memorable moments, my identity, has been forged with a sense of awe in raw moments in pursuit of reaching further in adventure. With an identity developed in our wild and rugged mountains, I am delighted to be joining a community of climbers who form an iconic 125-year-old organization. Our mission to inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains is as enduring and relevant today as it was when the Mazamas formed on top of Mt Hood. Educating, advocating for, and informing mountain culture is critical work, and as a Mazama, each of us are a part of a large mountain community with the strength and influence to inform the narrative for the future of our mountains and mountain communities. With a great sense of gratitude and responsibility I look forward stewarding your aspirations and advancing our strategic plan to improve and expand education; expand activities and events; protect the places we love; and inspire the next generation. Over the next few months I will attend committee meetings, attend events, help deliver courses, create opportunities to engage and learn from all of you—at and outside of the Mazama Mountaineering Center. I’d like to listen and learn from you, hear about your experiences, your stories about the DATES: MONDAY, NOV. 11–SUNDAY, NOV. 17 Mazamas, why the mountains matter to you, and what your hopes are for TICKETS GO ON SALE: SEPT. 4 the Mazamas and our larger mountain communities. The Summit, I imagine a future in which our Nov. 16 at the The mountains are vibrant with skilled Redd and engaged outdoors people from a broad-spectrum of generations, Portland Ice identities, experiences, and definitions, Comp, Nov. 15 at with the Mazamas at the center of that Planet Granite conversation. Speaker Series, You will begin to hear from me Nov. 11–14 periodically via the Bulletin and emails with information on how we are Clinics & Seminars, progressing, what I am learning, and Nov. 12–17 opportunities to further engage in our community. I look forward to climbing alongside presented by: you. hosted by: Thank you.
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UPCOMING ACTIVITIES & EVENTS FEATURED EVENT MAZAMA ANNUAL MEETING October 7, 6–9 p.m.
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ach year, on the first Monday in October, the Mazamas holds its annual meeting. This is an opportunity for members to come together to hear about what the Mazamas has accomplished in the past year, where it is going in the future, as well as to hear the outcome of the election. Dinner is provided; please make sure to sign up so we can get an adequate food count! Register at tinyurl.com/MazAnnual2019.
MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID (MFA): FALL 2019 Oct. 14–Nov. 13; Application opens Aug. 27 The Mountaineering First Aid course is designed to teach the first-aider how to apply first aid skills in the wilderness, perform advanced patient assessment, improvise equipment and cope with wilderness-specific conditions. It will introduce you to caring for people who become ill or injured far from definitive medical care. Emphasis is placed on long-term patient care management and specific injury evaluation.
PP30-hour course PP5, 3-hour lectures at the Mazama Mountaineering Center PP1 weekend at Mazama Lodge PPCourse: MFA Badge earned upon completion PPGet more info: mazamas.org/mfa
CLASSICS LUNCHEON AT MAZAMA LODGE Sept. 6 at 11:30 a.m. Mazama Lodge
PARTNER EVENT: UNCLIMB NIGHT Sept. 5 & Oct. 6 from 4–6 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center This event is led by a partner organization. Are you a part of the BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, and People of Color) community and/or the LGBTQ community? Wild Diversity invites you Un-Climb Night, a place where you can unlearn everything you have experienced in climbing culture, and be a part of building a community centered around you. So many of us have had negative experiences when climbing. For some of us, these experiences have lead us to never want to return, or have made us long for something in which we feel truly included. Let’s create something new, foster an environment of learning, and climb! Un-Climb Night is about building community. We replace aggression with support, and replace elitist attitudes with sounds of encouragement. If this is something you desire, please join us for this and our other Un-Climb Nights or Un-Climb Outside events. Wild Diversity seeks to support BIPOC and LGBTQ folks in the outdoors with community and shared experiences. We love our allies, but please respect the space we are trying to hold for these communities. Allies may support our activities by sharing it with or purchasing scholarships for BIPOC and LGBTQ folks. Partnering with the Mazamas, we have created a beautiful space of learning and growth. This is an opportunity to try climbing for the first time or just join a community in laughter and growth. Cost: sliding scale $10, (no one turned away for lack of funds). Those who can pay more, please do. What is provided: Harness, shoes, and climbing equipment. What you'll need to bring: Any personal gear you prefer. Register so we know you are coming at tinyurl.com/ unclimbnightreg. Donate at the door or pay online. 6 MAZAMAS
Join the Mazama Classics for lunch at the Mazama Lodge. This year's speaker is Carolyn Dridger, a hydrologist/PLO Outreach Coordinator for the USGS Cascade Volcano Observatory. Sign up at https://mazamas.org/activity/instance/4710/. Meet at the MMC at 10 a.m. to carpool.
ADVANCED ROCK INFORMATION NIGHT Oct. 3 from 6:30–8 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center The Mazama Advanced Rock (AR) Course provides high quality instruction and training to enable graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs on vertical rock. We teach the technical and mental skills that will prepare you for a wide range of climbing, from single-pitch cragging to multi-pitch and alpine rock routes. Join us to get all the details on the Mazama Advanced Rock (AR) Program for 2020. mazamas.org/ar.
EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS 2019–2020 SEASONS BEGINS Oct. 16 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center The Mazamas offers a robust Evening Travel Program from mid-October through April every year at the MMC's Holman Auditorium. This year we kick things off on October 16 with America's Triple Crown Trails with Barney Scout Mann. Get full season information at mazamas.org/eveningtravelprograms.
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES PORTLAND ALPINE FEST Do you want to pitch in for our biggest event of the year? Head over to portlandalpinefest.org on September 5 to sign up for a volunteer shift during the week. We would love to have your help!
OFFICE VOLUNTEERS Are you looking for a fun and interactive way to better get to know the Mazama community and programming? Do you find yourself with free time during the week? Office volunteers support staff with everything from answering phones and emails to organizing supplies and helping to manage our database. At the Mazama Mountaineering Center, office volunteers are often the first face and voice that members and non-members interact with, so if you are a friendly person who’s looking to share your inspiration to love and protect the mountains, we want you! Apply at tinyurl.com/mmcofficevolunteer.
SALESFORCE ASSISTANCE Do you have experience using Salesforce? We could use your help! The Mazamas has a Salesforce database and is looking for assistance in building custom reports and actions. Email volunteer@mazamas.org if you are interested in helping.
PUBLICATIONS TEAM The Bulletin is enjoyable to read, but it is even better to be a part of the team that makes it happen each month! We are looking for editors, writers, and lovers of grammar to join our team. Inquire at publications@mazamas.org.
LIBRARY ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks. Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests. Volunteers should have an interest in mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices helps, but is not required. Please contact Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager, at mathew@ mazamas.org to learn more.
THE NORDIC SKI SCHOOL IS RECRUITING FOR 2020 INSTRUCTORS Do you love sharing your love of snow? If your answer to this question is yes, consider instructing for the Mazama Nordic Ski School. Classes begin the weekend of January 25 and the school needs you! Not only would you be volunteering to keep the Nordic Ski School running and robust, but this is a great opportunity to hone your own nordic ski skills. Each first-time instructor is paired with a veteran, and all instructors are provided with a full day on skis training with an instructor certified through the Professional Ski Instructors of America. She provides coaching tips and helps each instructor take their skiing and instructing to the next level. Here are some frequently asked questions: What type of skiing is covered by the Nordic Ski School? Classes are taught in three types of Nordic skiing: Classic cross-country skiing (beginner, novice, intermediate, and advanced levels), backcountry cross-country skiing, and telemark skiing. How big of a time commitment is volunteering as a ski instructor? There will be a meet-your-instructor with students around January 16, 2020 in the evening, and three classes one Saturday or Sunday for three consecutive weeks. The school has a student and instructor coordinator that supports volunteers in working out any logistics or problems that arise. Each instructor is also expected to attend the oneday training offered sometime in early January. How do I know if I am good enough to instruct? We are committed to recruiting and offering a diverse instructor pool. If you’re willing to put in the time, we’d love to have you and will work to find appropriate instructing opportunities for all those interested. How long do I have to decide? Student registration ends November 26, 2019, and we hope to have our instructor pool established around that time. What should I do if I am interested? Please send any questions or inquiries to nordic@mazamas.org. Additional information can be found at mazamas.org/nordic.
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EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS The Mazamas offers a robust Evening Travel Program from mid-October through April every year at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center. You’ll virtually travel to every corner of the globe as our dynamic speakers immerse you in their experience through photos, video, and great storytelling. Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. View the entire season’s schedule at mazamas.org/eveningtravelprograms.
Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave, Portland, Ore. Programs Start at 7 p.m.
America's Triple Crown Trails, Oct. 16 Join us to hear Barney Scout Mann as he shares the remarkable tale and photographs from Pete L. Parsons, the first through hiker of the Continental Divide Trail in 1924. Scout, the author of several books and articles on the Pacific Crest Trail, and Continental Divide Trail and himself a "Triple Crowner," will enthrall you with Pete's story, photographs, and diaries of this early adventurer. The collection of Pete Parson's effects will be added to the Mazama Archives for further use and study. Barney Scout Mann is well respected in the hiking and mountaineering community, having served on the boards of both the Pacific Crest Trail Association and the Continental Divide Trail Coalition, and is now President of the Partnership for the National Trails System. Many members may also know Scout (and wife Frodo) from his hosting of hundreds of hikers every spring at his own home in southern California as hikers start their quest of thru hiking the PCT.
Japanese Climb of Mt. Fuji, October 23
7 Summits of the Moon, October 30
America's Great Mountain Trails, November 6
In August 2018, Keith Daellenbach and his pre-teen son Micah, went on an adventure to Japan. There they hiked through the northern Japanese Alps, enjoying a high mountain onsen (hot springs) on their hut to hut journey. They sea kayaked on the Seto Inland Sea and swam in its warm waters. Along the way, they visited cultural treasures like Takayama, Hiroshima, and Kyoto. Before returning to Tokyo, they climbed to the summit of Mt. Fuji via a southern approach and traversed down the mountain’s northern side. It was a father-son tour they will not forget and they hope you can join them for this presentation on the Land of the Rising Sun.
Don’t miss this opportunity to be a space tourist of the 22nd century! Join Bob McGown, MSci, on a scientific adventure tour of the mountains of the solar system. Some of the mountain ranges of the Moon are named after ranges on Earth; Bob will show us the parallels and possibilities. Geological mysteries are being uncovered by rovers, like the mystical wall on Miranda, the K2 of Mars, which already has climbing routes proposed by planetary geologists from the University of Washington. Some of these solar system routes may be climbed by astronauts and droids. If humanity establishes an offworld city on Mars, our descendants will likely explore the mountains, caves and oceans of other worlds.
In this stunning slideshow, awardwinning author and photographer Tim Palmer will take us on a tour of the most spectacular and revealing mountain hikes in America. His stunning photos tell stories of trail walking adventures, spanning five decades, from Katahdin to Olympus, from Denali to El Yunque. Tim is eager to field questions about his mountain adventures and will have copies of his books available for purchase. Tim is the recipient of the National Outdoor Book Award, the Communicator of the Year Award from the National Wildlife Federation, the Ansel Adams Photography Award from the Sierra Club, and other honors. He lives in Port Orford, Oregon. Learn more at www. timpalmer.org
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Mazamas launches Adventure CLIMB Summer Camp! by Claire Nelson, Youth and Outreach Program Manager
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his summer, from July 19–August 2, the Mazamas launched Adventure CLIMB, an overnight summer camp for 11–14 year old adventurers. Based at the Mazama Lodge on the slopes of Mt. Hood, six campers took day trips to local Mt. Hood crags to refine and learn new outdoor climbing skills. At Adventure CLIMB, we believe outdoor climbing is a perfect way to learn personal responsibility, confidence, teamwork, and an appreciation for the outdoors. Throughout the week, our campers became not only outdoor crushers, but better outdoor stewards, problem solvers, and friends.
Clockwise, from top left: Climbing at Bulo Point. photo: Micaiah Meyer. Campers arrive at the Mazama Lodge. Photo: Zach Heidel. Happy climbing at the top of Mosquito Butte! Photo: Stephen Zadrozny. Learning "the ropes" and climber safety: Photo: Stephen Zadrozny.
Camp began at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) climbing walls, getting to know each other, reviewing outdoor gear for the week, and getting in some climbing! Led by two instructors, Micaiah “Kerplunk” Meyer, and Zach “Wolf ” Heidel, and Mazama volunteer Stephen “SteveZ” Zadrozny, everyone covered the basics of climbing gear, knots, safety commands, and belaying each other safely. After their work at the MMC, the campers headed up to the mountain! The campers spent their first night getting to know one another, picking blueberries for pancakes the next morning, and settling into Mazama Lodge. The next three days included climbing at Mosquito Butte (aka Trillium Crag), French’s Dome, and finally, Bulo Point. “SteveZ” helped teach climbing skills at Mosquito Butte, and provided camp with some professional quality photos as well. On Thursday, the campers packed up their things at Mazama Lodge, and set up camp for the final night at Nottingham campground, along the East Fork of the Hood River, enjoying burgers, hot dogs, and s’mores over the fire. Friday morning, the group spent some solo time reflecting about their trip, and came together for final goodbyes. We were thrilled to offer such a fun experience for young climbers this summer, and to help build the next generation of climbers who love and protect the mountains. As one climber put it, she’s got the “outdoor bug!”
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An Evening with LYNN Hill
Nov. 16 at The Redd East
Join us for the 7th Annual Portland Alpine Fest (PAF), a community festival celebrating mountain recreation. PAF kicks off on Nov. 11 and runs through Nov. 17, and offers clinics, seminars, films, a speaker series, the Portland Ice Comp, and The Summit.
Get tickets starting on Sept. 4 at
PAFLETES 2019
ARI Novak
JEFF Shapiro
NIKKI Smith
BRONZE SPONSORS
SILVER SPONSORS
GOLD SPONSORS
LEAD SPONSORS
LYNN Hill
portlandalpinefest.org
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HANS FUHRER'S ICE AXE By Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager
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uried in the Executive Council minutes from May of 1959 is this line, "Letter from Dee Molenaar offering to present an ice axe formerly belonging to Hans Fuhrer accepted by the Council." Their acceptance led the Mazamas to get one of the more significant artifacts in the history of Northwest mountaineering.
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Fuhrer poster: Photo collage given to the Mazamas in 1958 by Dee Molenaar.
Hans Fuhrer came to the United States from Switzerland in 1912. He learned his craft from his father and grandfather, both of whom were mountain guides. In the Challenge of Rainier, Molenaar writes that Fuhrer, "was the first truly licensed [Swiss] guide to begin service in the Pacific Northwest." Between 1915 and 1917 he led over one hundred groups to the summit of Mt. Hood. In 1916 Fuhrer joined the Mazamas, and in April of that year made the first ascent of Mt. Hood on skis as far as the Hogsback. In 1917, at the age of twenty-nine, Hans almost lost his life in a climbing accident on Mt. Hood. On the descent, after leading his party to the Hogsback, everyone sat for a mass toboggan glissade to the lower crater. Near the bottom of the run, the women sitting behind Hans got her foot tangled with his ice axe. In the ensuing tumble, the full length of his ice axe's seven-inch pick drove into his stomach. Quick action on the part of Lige Coalman, then the USFS fireguard working on the summit, saved Fuhrer's life. Mount Rainier lured Fuhrer away in 1919, where he joined the guiding staff at the Rainier National Park Company. In 1925, the Canadian National Railway hired Fuhrer to guide in the Canadian Rockies, and later in 1932, he struck out on his own. Hans and his axe made many first ascents. In 1927 alone, he made twenty-three first ascents, over sixty-three days, in the Columbia and Clemenceau Ice Fields of British Columbia. At the age of fifty-one, he made the first ascent of the northeast ridge of Mt. Robson. Hans Fuhrer died in the spring of 1958. A year later, Molenaar, acting on behalf of Mrs. Fuhrer, contacted the Mazamas about acquiring his ice axe.
Swiss ice axe owned and used by Hans Fuhrer throughout the Pacific Northwest. Mazama Library & Historical Collections O1959.003.001
Hans Fuhrer, 1920, VM1999.017 VM1999.017 Hans Fuhrer, 1944.
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Reaching for North Sister: A Climb Reflection by Ron Gayer This article, unlike most climbing articles, is about a failed attempt, cowardice, and rationalization, thus has sat written but unread for almost two decades. In retrospect, it was a minor blip in a pretty good climbing career. Hope it helps someone along the way.
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t was Sunday evening in early September. The phone rang just as we were finishing dinner. My daughter, Whitney, home for a few more days before heading back to college, naturally assumed the call was for her. So I was surprised when she headed back to the table, phone in hand, looking at me with the expression of: I have no idea who this is, but it’s for you.
It was Terry Cone, my climbing guru; the man who over the past year and a quarter had allowed me to join him on several of the mountain climbs he was leading. I had climbed with a few other leaders over the past two seasons,, but I enjoyed Terry’s company—and the fact that he was older and tougher than me. Terry got right to the point, saying “Hi Ron, this is Terry Cone. I’m leading a climb on North Sister this coming weekend. Want to be in the group?” Without thinking, pausing, or consulting with my wife, Mary, I said “Yes.” Terry said he would send me a climb prospectus and, like that, I was committed. It was just a few weeks earlier that I had climbed another Sister, Middle, with a very experienced climb leader who, when I asked him if he had ever climbed North Sister, said he had absolutely no desire to climb that “ugly pile of rocks and dirt.” What prompted my question was that from the summit of Middle Sister you have a sensational view of North Sister and, as mountains go, it is pretty ugly. Eroded and dark, wide from a western vantage point, narrow and sharply peaked from the south—especially from the summit of Middle Sister, where on a beautiful autumn day I pondered it as a challenge and rejected it as too dangerous, too unattractive a challenge for one of my limited experience. Why did my resolve not to “bag” North Sister dissolve so quickly? As far as I can figure, I was looking to squeeze one more climb into the season. And, of course, it was Terry, a climb leader who knew my capabilities, who by inviting me to join his climb was saying he thought I was capable of handling the rigors of climbing North 14 MAZAMAS
Sister. I had had a very good climbing year, especially for just my second year of climbing. I had taken the Mazamas basic climbing course and learned some of the fundamentals of mountain climbing— particularly alpine climbing—and had gained a real appreciation for the emphasis the Mazamas place on safety. I had summited Mt. Hood for the third time), Three Fingered Jack (a “C” rated rock climb that scared the heck out of me and made me proud to have completed), Middle Sister (where I was also given the opportunity to be an assistant climb leader) and Mt. Adams via the Mazama Glacier route which, at my stage of climbing “expertise” was incredibly demanding and included a wide variety of climbing surfaces and challenges. So I prepared myself for North Sister. I started by reading about it and, frankly, got little comfort in learning the mountain’s nickname: “The Black Beast of the Cascades.” I took a little more time than usual in organizing and packing for this two-day climb, wanting to equip myself as lightly as possible in order to conserve strength during the pack-in, yet not lack for any of the essentials (primarily food) that would be needed for a successful climb. Here, in the equipment area, I may have made a critical mistake. I’ll never know for sure. I took the only climbing boots I owned at the time, plastic ones—fine for snow and glacier travel where the primary concern is warmth and a good structure for attaching crampons. Not so good, as it turned out, for maneuvering over rock. But that is both conjecture and getting ahead of myself. We were to meet 9 a.m. Saturday morning, at the trailhead. Rather than
sleeping in my car or spending money for a motel room, I decided to get up early and make the 3½-hour drive to Central Oregon. So that’s what I did. Up at 4 a.m., on the road by 5:30. At 8:50 a.m. I was the first one to arrive, smack in the middle of a rain storm that I had driven through for the past hour. Part of me was disappointed at having driven so far, apparently for nothing, part of me was a little pleased that I had made the attempt but wouldn’t have to actually climb this nasty peak. The rest of the group pulled up shortly after my arrival and we immediately had a quick meeting where at Terry’s urging we agreed to wait an hour or three to see if the rain would let up. I settled into my car, cranking the seat back in a vain attempt to sleep off the long drive. After awhile, not being able to nap, I wandered over and joined a few of the other climbers in a roomy RV and mostly listened to them discuss other climbers (none in our group) that they would never climb with again. The consensus in this little group was that big egos and whining were the two most unattractive traits in someone you would be dependent on while taking on the sometimes daunting task of getting to the top of a mountain. The consensus was also that we had sat in the rain just about long enough when Terry came by to point out a tiny patch of almost blue sky far off to the south. Along with this discovery he also pronounced the rain to be over and that we were to be ready to roll in ten minutes. The whole atmosphere changed immediately. There was no dissension, no discussion. Our leader had spoken; we had, literally, our marching orders. As we changed into boots and hefted
We now had to pit ourselves against a steep wall of scree that reminded me of one of those plastic ball pits that kids play in at amusement parks. Only this pit was very vertical, very high, and the balls were jagged." our backpacks, the weather did indeed continue to improve. The rain went from the final remnants of the storm to a mist to the belated start of a glorious Central Oregon day. By the time we departed the parking loop and hit the trail it looked as though we might actually pull this thing off; although in the back of my mind there was still a small picture of the bunch of us trudging back three or four hours later, all looking like the proverbial drowned rat— complete with sodden packs. That didn’t happen. The day continued to improve, the trail was damp but not muddy, our spirits were lifting. The two things I had discovered by this juncture of our climb was that I was traveling with a bunch of people who all had quite a bit more climbing experience than I, and that I was the only one in the group not wearing leather boots. Terry’s plan was to bypass the traditional overnight camping area at Arrowhead Lake and move as far up the mountain as we could on Saturday in order to be closer to the peak of North Sister when we resumed our climb Sunday morning. We hiked in, added an extra mile or two because we missed a turn-off on the trail, and bush-wacked our way upward towards what ultimately was the last place where we could both replenish our water and have a flat place to put up our tents. Early to bed, and then a 3 a.m. wake up. Fumbling around in the dark, trying to choke down something semi-nutritious, dressing, and mostly wishing I could sleep at least until the sun made an appearance. At 4 a.m., right on schedule, we resumed our climb. Initially the climb, in almost pitch blackness, was illuminated cosmetically by more stars than I had ever seen and functionally by the narrow cones of light emitting from our headlamps. We began
by going up, along and over an incredibly steep and tall moraine—a wedge of rocks, all unstable, all laying precariously on the rock or rocks beneath them. Thus we began what could be termed a perilous journey—could be, but won’t be because no one was injured. When I reflect back on the thousand of steps, the scores of stumbles and falls, the hundreds of decisions that could mean the difference between a broken ankle or just another step on just another wobbly rock, I can’t help but think that there’s a lot of dumb luck involved in this pursuit. It was here in the wee dark hours of the last vestiges of night that I first began to feel uncomfortable with my footwear. The feeling was vague as it was absolutely essential to focus intensely on every single foot placement. Still, I began to feel clumsier than usual, but not in a pronounced manner as we were all stumbling and fumbling over exceedingly unstable terrain that would be somewhat perilous even in the light of day. Avoiding any major mishaps, we completed our climb over the moraine and regrouped where the glacier butted up to it. Here we put on our crampons and hooked our carabineers into loops at our assigned positions on the ropes. We formed two rope teams, one with four climbers, one with five. Mazamas always rope up for glacier travel. Immediately I felt better. Not only were the rocks behind us for awhile, but the glacier was a comfortable upward slope with a snow covering that made traveling in crampons feel natural. We wound our way around some of the many huge crevasses on this glacier and jumped over some small ones. Dawn was beginning to break. Another beautiful day was ahead. It was getting light as we came to the end of our glacier travel. We now had to
pit ourselves against a steep wall of scree that reminded me of one of those plastic ball pits that kids play in at amusement parks. Only this pit was very vertical, very high, and the balls were jagged. Here we spread out to keep from being on the same line with other climbers, as each step taken would unleash a torrent of rocks that would rattle and clatter down the slope, billiard-balling other rocks until the entire area was awash with a continuous torrent of falling pebbles, rocks, and small boulders, each, based on size, having their own timbre, creating a mineral cacophony. We scrambled up using hands, feet, and ice axes for whatever purchase we could find on this incredibly unstable surface. After approximately 30 minutes we all had made our separate ways to the ridge atop the loose volcanic rubble, took a left-hand turn and proceeded up the long, narrow ridge heading to the upper sections of the “Beast.” As we continued up the rocky ridge, I did a mental inventory of my systems. I didn’t feel particularly strong, but I was holding my own and so far hadn’t had any inordinate difficulties on any of the terrain we had crossed. But now that we were climbing up and over rock, moving along a fairly narrow ridge with sharp drop-offs to either side, I became increasingly aware of the fact that I was clomping around in boots that didn’t give me a comfortable level of control or confidence in my footing. I attempted to put this nagging thought out of my mind, knowing that I was on a difficult, unstable, reasonably dangerous chunk of earth, and that I would be perfectly justified to be uncomfortable no matter what I had on my feet. But there it was, the elephant in the corner of the
continued on next page SEPTEMBER 2019 15
North Sister, continued from previous page room. My mantra was: “Don’t think about it. Put any thoughts of failure, any fears, away. Don’t let your mind get the better of you. You’re capable, you’re strong, you’re going to do this, and you’ll never have to come up here again. Ever!” But every little slip, every rockfall precipitated by nothing more than a next step over a well worn but ever changing route, told me that my physiology wasn’t optimum, that my moves weren’t as well executed as the moves of some of the better climbers in front of and behind me. This observation served to further undermine my confidence. I tried to plug my reservoir of confidence, but it seemed to have a small hole at the bottom. I tried to put strong, confident thoughts into the reservoir, but the draining continued, inexorably. We pushed on. Finally, after some pretty interesting wall hugging and tightrope-like walking on steep scree-laden traverses, we got to a place where each of us could hold on to a chunk of the mountain for stability. Here, we were advised to secure our summit packs and ice axes so we would be unencumbered by the shifting weight of our packs. That way we would have our hands free for hanging on to the mountain as we maneuvered along ropes now being set ahead of us by our assistant climb leader and some of the other more seasoned climbers. The passage along the roped sections went rather well. I took my turn traversing a section immediately beneath a couple of our lead climbers when several of the party hollered “Rock!” loudly and in unison. This wasn’t gratuitous. This warning hadn’t been used much on this climb since rock was falling (albeit mostly from our own activity and, thankfully, below us) almost continuously. This was serious, and the warning was aimed in my direction. With my wits about me, I chose not to look up to see if I was in danger. Too many climbers had gotten their answer with a rock in the face and I wasn’t about to make that mistake, particularly when I heard, not the “clack, clack” of a brick sized rock but the “thunk, thunk” of a good-sized boulder. I was later (much later, in fact) told that this particular rock was about the size of a set of World Book encyclopedias and had flown over and very close to my head. I remember getting as close to the 16 MAZAMAS
“ground” as possible, hoping I wouldn’t catch it in the spine. I didn’t. Nor did I allow this close call to phase me. That gave me a temporary emotional boost. Upward and onward. I was hanging in there. Not causing any undue delays as we picked our ways through some fairly difficult sections of rock. I was doing OK. I was making my way up as difficult, as exposed a stretch of terrain as I had ever encountered, and I was doing OK. But I was now questioning my ability. So far in my brief climbing career there had not been a challenge I had not overcome—which is pretty much the essence of mountain climbing. But I was now experiencing more uncertainty, more erosion of confidence in my physical ability than I had ever encountered in my life. Was it truly the boots or were they simply an excuse? I was climbing up the most difficult terrain I had ever attempted and I may as well have been doing it in clown shoes for the level of confidence I had in my ability to claw my way up this pile of rotten rock and portable handholds. We arrived at a point on the mountain where we could sit and rest for a few seconds before traversing another narrow, unprotected and steep stretch to the next point of roped protection. Here, at a little under two miles elevation, we could take the time to look out over the magnificence of Central Oregon and down, way down, to the crevasse-streaked glacier that we had traveled over in the pre-morning darkness. I volunteered to carry one of the ropes that were being drawn up after our passage. I wanted to do anything I could to contribute to the climb’s success. I carried the coiled rope over an area that felt to me to be a candidate for protection; I think by now my confidence had waned to the point where I no longer looked at any given stretch as a challenge but, rather, an exercise in survival. I made it across the unprotected stretch, having unloosed less than a quarter ton of volcanic crud and rocks, and passed the rope over to the climbers who were doing the work of “setting pro.” Here, most of the climbing party were gathered together for the first time in an hour or so, waiting for protection to be set, for the climb to continue up the last little bit to the summit. As we waited for the signal to
move out, our leader Terry said: “If anyone feels like they ought not to continue from this point, that is perfectly OK. Just wait here.” Just as when Terry called to invite me to this party, I didn’t hesitate, I didn’t think, I just said: “Terry, I think I’m out of my depth. I’m going to stay.” No one else said a word. In a matter of minutes the next piece of protection was set and one by one the other members of my group headed off around a sharp corner, disappearing from view and continuing up to the summit. I felt very alone. As I sat there trying not to nod off in the afternoon sunlight— which would likely result in a tumble off my narrow perch and a several thousand foot fall—I examined my decision. It was one of the first times in my life that I had turned away from a physical challenge. I had climbed a number of other mountains. I had jumped out of airplanes. I had done some incredibly rash things while scuba diving, and I had run scores of marathons and wilderness-trail ultra-marathons. And while I don’t claim to have finished every single event I ever started, I never quit due to a lack of confidence. I sat there on the ledge fighting off the instinct to rejoin my group, to follow them alone to the summit, thus salvaging my pride. But I didn’t. I believed I had made the right decision, for myself and for my team. I had committed. Nevertheless, alone and introspective, I succumbed to a need for assessment of the emotional damage; not unlike the physical inventories I had done dozens of times in my running career as I lay sprawled on a forest or a mountain trail, the result of a nasty fall. On those occasions I would check for breaks, tears, sprains—essentially anything that would hinder my return home. On this day, on this mountain, I checked for cowardliness, guilt, self loathing, self pity. I was prepared for any of the above. But I couldn’t buy into any of these feelings. Yes, I had bailed on the final push to the summit, and, yes, I would regret not having made it to the top of this ugly pile of rock—particularly as I had put in about 95 percent of the required work. But the boots, the stars, my level of ability, I don’t know, something had told me that this was not to be. Something told me that staying put was the right course of
Perspective. This small glitch in what was otherwise a pretty good start to a climbing career meant nothing. It was no more important than losing a ping pong game. Real life, real hardship, was so much more relevant than having failed to accomplish what was, realistically, a pretty insignificant goal."
action. Was it good instinct or pathetic rationalization? One never knows. And that was that. Perhaps, in my mind, this defeat would fester and grow and become more important than all of my successes. But I knew one thing for sure: I was out of my depth, and, certainly as far as the rest of my team was concerned, it was absolutely the right decision for me to have made. Had Terry not brought up the issue of stopping, I’m pretty sure I would have continued as best I could and, based on previous experience, made it to the top. However, had my instincts been right and had something gone wrong—had I gotten injured or, God forbid, froze up—it would have been a daunting, a monumental task for my team to get me out of there. So I sat and waited. It took less than an hour for everyone to make their way along the final pieces of protection, climb to the summit, get photos taken, and get back to where I was waiting. But before they returned my thoughts gravitated to some very graphic images that, except during respites created by the physical demands and intense concentration demanded by this climb, had, for days, not left my mind for more than minutes at a time. Those images were the horrific scenes of the World Trade Center towers collapsing, snuffing out thousands of lives and destroying so much more. (Remember, this was written almost two decades ago.) Perspective. This small glitch in what was otherwise a pretty good start to a climbing career meant nothing. It was no more important than losing a ping pong
game. Real life, real hardship, was so much more relevant than having failed to accomplish what was, realistically, a pretty insignificant goal. When the first few members of the team returned, one by one we started back across and down the steep, treacherous route to the last ridge that we used protection to ascend. Not having any other options, I made it back across and knew I had just completed the most dangerous portion of the climb—for a second time. Here we explored and found a great place to save considerable time and effort by rappelling down the face of a craggy rock wall. At first I thought I was going to have a problem. But no, my crisis of confidence, the dismissive appraisal of my ability, justified or not, had departed me, and rappelling down not only saved a lot of energy but put a little fun back into the task and lifted my spirits. Something else helped lift my spirits. Several of my teammates came up to me and said they thought it took tremendous courage to make the decision I did to stay behind at the base of the summit. Terry also came up, took my hand, almost crushing it, and thanked me for making a prudent decision. Since everybody else summited, since I confined my problem to myself, I can’t argue with the outcome. I was grateful for their support, their kind words, their understanding. We stumbled and slid and climbed over and around obstacles, backtracking much of our route on the ascent, and, while trying to make good time, also
tried to be careful. Going down is always fraught with danger caused by fatigue, carelessness, and gravity, but we all made it back down to the glacier with an acceptable number of scrapes and bruises. Here, we put our crampons back on, roped up (this time all of us closely spaced on a single rope), and proceeded down the glacier on a route scoped out from the heights we had just departed, one that avoided much of the zigging, zagging, and jumping over crevasses that usually occurs without the benefit of a mental map of the terrain. We reached the base of the glacier in what seemed to be no time at all. Now, unburdened from our crampons, we did more climbing over huge rockladen moraines most of the way back to camp. At our camp, under a bright warm sun, we took minimal time to rest. We quickly broke camp, repacked our big backpacks, and, in something under an hour, we were heading down more rocky terrain, wanting to make the six or seven mile hike back to the trailhead before darkness overtook us. We did, just. The climb was over, and the group was to meet at a restaurant for a celebratory dinner on the way back to Portland. As unemotional as I had been able to be about my failure to summit, I still thought it best to leave the celebrating to those who had something to celebrate. I quickly said my good-byes and drove the three and a half-hours home. I got there exhausted, disappointed, but with a whole new appreciation for something I still can’t quite put my finger on. It is wrapped in trying and failing and trying and succeeding, and, maybe, how in the end, the two are not that different because the trying is more important than the outcome. Maybe. I don’t know. Maybe more time and more climbs will clarify. I guess it finally did. SEPTEMBER 2019 17
SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS July 16—Icy Peak, North Route. Rico Micallef, Leader. Dan Codorean, Assistant. Craig Alvarez, Jean Hillebrand July 19—Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Howie Davis, Leader. Tyler (Toby) Creelan, Assistant. Yukti Aggarwal, Sadie Forzley, Caroline Foster, Michael Graham, Kyle Lascurettes, Justin Thibeault, Michael Valentine July 20—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Bill McLoughlin, Leader. Melinda Hugo, Assistant. Bryce Buchanan, Frank Linehan July 21—Del Campo Peak, South Gully. Bob Breivogel, Leader. John Rettig, Assistant. Matt Gardner, Linda Hernandez, Sabrina Hickerson, Andrés Malavasi, Lauren Mason, Brett Taute, Katie Zajicek July 21—Gothic Peak, East Side. Bob Breivogel, Leader. John Rettig, Assistant. Matt Gardner, Linda Hernandez, Sabrina Hickerson, Lauren Mason, Brett Taute, Katie Zajicek July 21—Mt. Ellinor, Summertime Route. Dirk Lakeman, Leader. Shane Harlson, Assistant. Shimran George, Bartholomew “Mac” Martin, Kristofel Simbajon, Russell Turner, Hugh Woltzen July 21—Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier. Eric Brainich, Leader. Chaitanya Sathe, Assistant. Anna Buckley, Yev Krasnitskiy, Prasanna Narendran, Rob Olsztyn July 21—Mt. Jefferson, Whitewater Glacier. Long Ong, Leader. Darren Ferris, Assistant. Eric Cross, Duncan Hart, Ian McCluskey, Ryan Reed July 21—Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Howie Davis, Leader. Kristen Jackson, Assistant. Brittany Eriksson, Michael Graham, Alyssa Hursh, Matt Kirsch, Kyle Lascurettes, Haareeth Parimi, Katie Polanshek, Justin Thibeault, Michael Valentine July 26—Ingalls Peak, South Face. Gary Ballou, Leader. Bridget Martin, Assistant. Pam Bishop, Joe Camizzi, Debbie Dwelle, Kirk Newgard July 27—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/ Standard Route. Shane Harlson, Leader. Rodny Rodriguez, Assistant. Asa Christiana, Maheesha De Silva, Karen De Vera, Samantha Kang, Amrish Menjoge, Nachiket Rajderkar, Dana Terhune, Max Western, Roberta Zouain July 27—Sahale Mountain, Sahale Arm/Cascade Pass. Karen Graves, Leader. Nate Zeiler, Assistant. Melissa Crest, Liz Garrity, Andrew Leaf, Megan Skwirz, Zsuzsanna Vida 18 MAZAMAS
July 28—Mt. Adams, South Side. George Shay, Leader. Linda Mark, Assistant. Emily Carpenter, Caroline Czajkowski, Caroline Foster, Michael Frank, Scott Isa, Meredith lazaroff, Sumedh Naik, Daksha Sharma, Rohan Sharma, Anthony Traver July 28—Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. Long Ong, Leader. Julie Kentosh, Assistant. Scott Auble, Shawn Kenner, Eileen Sterlock, Matthew Sullivan, Karen Vernier, Marshall Yanzick July 28—Mt. Constance, SE Face via South Fork Tunnel Creek. Glenn Farley Widener, Leader. Chaitanya Sathe, Assistant. Linda Musil, Kaitlin Rupert, Robert Sinnott July 29—Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge. Marc Milobinski, Leader. Lori Coyner, Assistant. Rick Busing, Ann Marie Caplan, Donna Vandall July 29—Ingalls Peak, South Face. Larry Buzan, Leader. Scott Osbron, Assistant. Jon Daby, Courtney Rust August 1—Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge. Bill Stein, Leader. Nancy Lloyd, Assistant. Shea Durkin, Kevin Kohberger, Bruce Mckelvie, Forest Menke-Thielman, Basil Stein, Steven Wagoner August 3—Cowhorn Mountain, West Ridge. Jill Kellogg, Leader. Nate Zeiler, Assistant. Judith Baker, Andrew Behr, Anna Maria Lopez, Nhat Pham, Nate Zeiler August 3—Cowlitz Chimney, West Side. Michael Hortsch, Leader. John Lombard, Assistant. Jonathan Myers, Sandee Myers, Leslie Shotola, Lawrence Welsh August 3—Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. Shane Harlson, Leader. Teresa Redman, Assistant. Kathrin Dragich, Jeremy Galarneaux, Margie Hendryx, Joe Kaufman, Brett Taute, Jen Travers August 3—Mt. Stone, West Ridge. Greg Scott, Leader. Pam Bishop, Assistant. Urusa Alaan, Matthew Gantz, Erica Lee, Kevin Marold, Katherine Peterson, Katie Polanshek, Jacob Powell, Michael Schoenheit, Roberta Zouain August 3—Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats. Karen Graves, Leader. Dawn Van Seggen, Assistant. Gautam Ghare, Mary Greer, Vandy Hall, Shailesh Mulgaonker, Adriana Vintila August 4—Diamond Peak, South Ridge. Jill Kellogg, Leader. Nate Zeiler, Assistant. Judith Baker, Andrew Behr, Anna Maria Lopez, Nhat Pham
August 4—Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. Kirk Newgard, Leader. Debbie Dwelle, Assistant. Anthony Carr, Lacey Jones, Whitney Lindahl, Mary Monnat, Stephen Wadley August 4—Mt. Jefferson, Marion County Highpoint. Daniel Mick, Leader. Alyssa Hursh, Assistant. Daven Berg, Melinda Hugo August 4—Snowfield Peak, Neve Glacier. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Joe Powell, Assistant. Mikel Rhodes August 4—Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. John Sterbis, Leader. Andrew Leaf, Assistant. Jeremiah Biddle, Clinton Carpenter, Matt Gardner, Sabrina Hickerson, Richard Smith, Scott Templeton August 5—Mt. Jefferson, North Ridge. Daniel Mick, Leader. Alyssa Hursh, Assistant. Yukti Aggarwal, Daven Berg, Melinda Hugo, Tomoko Nakajima August 11—Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Long Ong, Leader. Anthony Carr, Assistant. Clinton Carpenter, Jim Rehill, Dileep Revanasiddappa August 13—The Tooth, South Face. Melinda Hugo, Leader. Jesse Applegate, Assistant. Tyler Creelan, Linda Hernandez August 17—Mt. Hood, Eliot Glacier Tour. Andrew Bodien, Leader. John Lombard, Assistant. Mike Fairhurst, Katherine Griffith, William Griffith, Andy Sorensen, Leah Sorensen, Jen Travers August 17—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Suresh Singh, Leader. Michael Levis, Assistant. Gautam Ghare, Michael Graham, Eugene Mayevskiy, Forest Menke-Thielman, Dileep Revanasiddappa, Kristofel Simbajon, Richard Smith August 17—South Sister, Devil’s Lake. James Jula, Leader. Janelle Klaser, Assistant. Russell Conine, Valerie Duggan, Michael Gibbons, Bruce Giordano, Francis Obst, Nadia Rivera August 18—Broken Top, Green Lakes/NW Ridge. Larry Buzan, Leader. Eric Brainich, Assistant. Anna Buckley, John Gist August 18—Mt. Daniel, SE Ridge. Bob Breivogel, Leader. John Maroney, Assistant. Michael Dahlin, Linda Hernandez, Eric Miller, Tatsuro Ogisu, Koko Olszewski, Elena Weinberg August 18—Mt. Hood, Eliot Glacier Tour. Andrew Bodien, Leader. John Lombard, Assistant. Cody Haener, Lauren Haener, Britt Hoover, Michael Moy, David Rosenbaum, Jeffrey Sullivan
MAZAMA LIBRARY
Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country. Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping, and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.
Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at mazamas.org/library
TREASURES FROM THE SPECIAL COLLECTION
DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ A flysheet (rain fly) increases warmth in a tent by trapping dead air, creating insulation. ▶▶ Sleeping bags do not increase the warmth of the occupant, they only maintain warmth for a certain amount of time. ▶▶ When camping in the winter, choose a light-colored tent. Dark-colored tents radiate heat more readily at night. ▶▶ A dunnel tent is a cross between a dome and a tunnel, combining the internal space of a dome with the aerodynamic qualities of a tunnel.
BOOKS ON PORTLAND AREA ROCK CLIMBING ▶▶ Weekend Rock: Oregon, Horton, 917.95.H78 ▶▶ Northwest Oregon Rock, Olson, 917.95.OL8n ▶▶ Portland Rock Climbs, Olson, 917.95.OL8 ▶▶ Climb Portland, Mt. Hood, & the Gorge, Holzman, 917.95 H72p ▶▶ Oregon Rock & Boulder, West, 917.95 W52
Scenes from the snowfields; being Illustrations of the Upper Ice-World of Mont Blanc, from Sketches made on the Spot in the Years 1855, 1856, 1857, 1858; with historical and descriptive Remarks and a Comparison of the Chamonix and St Gervais Route, by Edmund T. Coleman, 1859. Coleman (1823-1892) was the founding member of the London-based Alpine Club (1858) and an experienced mountaineer who in 1855 reached the summit of Mont Blanc. In 1858 he was the first to reach the top of Domes de Miage (3673 m, Mont Blanc massif). Coleman was an exhibitor of landscape and historical pictures at the Royal Academy. Mazama Library Special Collection, 914.94.C67.
THE MAZAMA LIBRARY NEEDS SUPPORT—FROM YOU! Do you or someone you know have vintage mountaineering gear that is looking for a home? Don’t give it to Goodwill, donate it to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections! We are always on the lookout for wood handle ice axes, early climbing gear, vintage catalogs, turn of the century photographs, early mountaineering books, and more. Please contact library manager Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to discuss potential donations. We apologize, but we cannot accept any Mazama Annuals published after 1925 or National Geographic magazines. Please consider a financial contribution to support the Mazama Library, a nationally recognized collection and one of the few remaining mountaineering libraries in the United States. Your financial donation will help support our full-time librarian, acquire rare mountaineering books and historic photographs, and maintain our valuable archives and historic objects collections. Thank you for your support. SEPTEMBER 2019 19
Mazamas Celebrate 125 Years with a Community Block Party July 28, 2019 Top: Archival Items. Photo: Lacey Breton Bottom, from left: George Cummings. Photo: Ralph Daub.. Amy Brose. Photo: Ralph Daub. Robin Wilcox with daughter Sidney. Photo: Lacey Breton.
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he afternoon heat didn’t stop 250-300 people (and some pets) from convening at the MMC on July 28 to celebrate our 125th anniversary. The 125th Block Party and Open House featured food, fun, and educational opportunities for members, their families, and the community. With the street out front of the MMC closed to traffic, attendees could mingle freely through display booths and activities before heading inside for more. Kids explored their artistic side with nature-themed crafts and played games in the sun. Those wanting some lunch enjoyed delicious food prepared by a few of the city’s food trucks, and adults caught up with friends old and new in the MMC’s side yard beer garden. Booths provided opportunities to send a postcard to your political representative (with help from the Conservation Committee), pick up a Bulletin or one of author Matt Reeder’s books, learn about Betties 360 activities, play cornhole while learning about the Mountain Shop’s new location, and more. Inside the MMC, attendees could practice their knot skills while watching others climb the rock and “ice" walls, some for the first time. Smiles and cheers abounded as kids and kids at heart made it to the top all around the auditorium. Mazamas shared anecdotes of their most memorable moments in the mountains and beyond at the Story Booth in the lobby. Downstairs, the history of the Mazamas and mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest was on display, with artifacts and photographs from the Mazama Historical Collections on exhibit. Library and Historical Collections Manager Mathew Brock was on hand to answer questions and provide insight on these amazing pieces of Mazama history. For those who wanted to get some exercise, a ramble to Mt. Tabor or Laurelhurst Park was an option, or kids could participate in Adventure WILD activities. And let’s not forget the crowd favorite—a slice of the huge Mazama 125th Anniversary cake and accompanying acknowledgements, in which Acting Executive Director Sarah Bradham honored our long history while highlighting where the organization is headed. Here’s to another 125 years!
Clockwise from top left: Group photo of climbing wall volunteers. Photo: Lacey Breton. Larry Beck, unidentified. Photo: Ralph Daub. Archival images. Photo: Ralph Daub. Young climber. Photo: Lacey Breton. Dyanne Foster and Gary Riggs. Photo: Lacey Breton. Unidentified, Ray Sheldon, Unidentified. Photo: Ralph Daub. Volunteer Stephen Zadrozny talks with young climbers. Photo: Lacey Breton. Sign detailing the event schedule. Photo: Lacey Breton.
SEPTEMBER 2019 21
MAZAMA LODGE Lodge Musings & Happenings by Charles Barker, Mazama Lodge Manager
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fter Labor Day we return to our fall/ winter schedule. We will be open Labor Day and will close at noon on Tuesday, September 3. Our fall/ winter schedule is open from noon on Thursday to noon on Monday. RESERVATIONS When you make a reservation online, we do not charge your credit card. We do charge your credit card if you don’t show up. Our cancellation policy is very generous, you can cancel up until noon the day of your reservation. Please note that our online reservation gives you the cost for a non-member, not a member. When you check-in, you need to show us your current membership card and we will give you the member rate of $18.70 per night.
HAMILTON MOUNTAIN, OCT. 19 For nearly seven years Rick Amodeo and I have led various “Chuck Wagon” hikes throughout the Mt. Hood National Forest. Because of scheduling conflicts this year we were unable to plan our usual chuckwagon trips. This year we are planning something a little simpler that requires far less time. On Saturday, October 19 we are planning a one-day hike up Hamilton Mountain, starting from the WPA picnic shelter in the parking area. We will be serving hot coffee and pastries from 8 a.m.–9 a.m., followed by the hike and then a hot lunch at 12:30 p.m. Cost for the morning cowboy coffee, pastries, and hot lunch is $15 per person, $12 for kids 12 and under. Registration can be made online.
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Tracy Andrews & Jared Rhones wedding at Mazama Lodge on August 10, 2019.
WEDDING: TRACY ANDREWS & JARED RHODES Congratulations to Tracy Andrews and Jared Rhodes, who celebrated their wedding up at Mazama Lodge on Saturday, August 10. Tracy and Jared are both Mazamas and met each other on a Grand Canyon rafting trip. They are used to dealing with the challenges that Mother Nature brings us. This proved extremely helpful this year when we broke an alltime record for rainfall on their wedding
day. Fortunately, the staff had all the tables ready to go in the basement. Once the ceremony was over the staff brought out the tables during a nice break in the weather. All the guests enjoyed a wonderful dinner prior to the next weather system moving in. Around 10 p.m. it started raining again, which actually made washing the plates slightly easier since Mother Nature gave them a slight pre-rinse.
e m o c l e W
New Members!
NEW MEMBERS: 38 Cory Adamski—Mt. St Helens Jacob Brown—South Sister Amy Bruning—South Sister Steven Caskey—Mt. Adams Christopher Corich—Mt. Rainier Beth Currie—Mt. St Helens Jen Datka—Mt. St Helens Kyle DeHart—Mt. Hood Jonathan Doman—Middle Sister Elaine Edgel—Mt. St Helens Kate Edstrom—Mt. Rainier Ryan Evans—Mt. Adams Lauren Glenn—South Sister Steve Glenn—Borah Peak (Idaho) Jake Grabowsky—South Sister William Halligan—Mt. Adams Jenny Hauschildt—Mt. St Helens Andrew Horvatits—Mt. Adams Eugenie Job—South Sister Samantha Kang—South Sister
Chris Kendall—Mt. Hood Cary Kutter—Mt. Hood Scottie Maykoski—Mt. St Helens James McDonald—Mt. Hood Frank McGrade—South Sister Suzanne Mikhail-Lee—Mt. St Helens Tyler Nelson—Mt. Rainier Mark Nikiel—Mt. Baker Matthew Noland—Mt. Washington Jonathan Olver—Mt. Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) Michael Phillips—Mt. St Helens Asani Seawell—Mt. St Helens Lin Shaw—Mt. St Helens Leah Sorensen—Mt. Thielsen Melanie VanSlavens—Mt. St Helens Renee Wenger—South Sister Margot Wolfsehr—Mt. Adams Mychal Wooldridge—Mt. Rainier
REINSTATEMENTS: 1
Hugh Woltzen (2006)
DECEASED: 2
Barry Mangum (1957) & Jon Putnam (1989)
Total Membership as of July 31: 3,516 (2019), 3,506 (2018)
MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS
O
ur members are part of a 125year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation. Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. ▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.
SAYING GOODBYE BARBARA WALL, LIFE MEMBER Mazama Life member Barbara Wall passed away recently. Barbara joined the Mazamas in 1956 after climbing Mt. Hood’s South Side on July 8, 1956. She became a skilled rock climber after meeting Joe Quigley. Together they explored crags near Portland including Rooster Rock, Beacon Rock, and Smith Rock. Because of this interest, she was probably the first woman to switch leads on the Southeast Corner on Beacon Rock in May 1957. She did it wearing the then standard tennis shoes and tied in with only a bowline on a coil. At the end of July that same year, she was assistant leader to Marianne Ott leading ten people up the South Side of Mt. Hood on an Acquaintance Climb. Over Labor Day in 1957, she, Joe Quigley, and Art Maki did the first ascent of the West Ridge of Spider Mountain in the North Cascades. Because of Joe's death several weeks later on St. Peters Dome, news of the first ascent did not reach Fred Beckey until years later through the efforts of Art Maki. In the second edition of the Cascade Alpine Guide Beckey refers to Barbara as a "companion," because Art had forgotten her hame. Barbara self-identified as Joe's companion in a 2016 interview with Jeff Thomas of the Mazamas. After Joe died, Barbara reportedly stopped rock climbing. Although she moved to California in 1959, and later to Michigan, she continued her high alpine mountaineering with the Mazamas. In the summers of 1959 and 1960, Barbara returned and climbed Mountains Shuksan, Baker, Glacier Peak, and Stuart. In 1961 she was awarded the Sixteen Peaks Award (#85); at the time she was the twenty-third woman to earn the pinnacle of Mazama climbing awards.
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A History of Mazamas Conservation in Five Events by Jonathan Barrett
T
he original mission statement for the Mazamas when it was founded 125 years ago was the following: “To explore mountains, to disseminate authoritative and scientific information concerning them, and to encourage the preservation of forests and other features of mountains in their natural beauty." In the course of the club’s history this final directive—to engage in acts of preservation and conservation—has taken myriad forms. In preparing this article for the Publications Committee, I came to the understanding that the history of Mazamas conservation efforts was vastly more expansive than I had ever imagined. As part of the research process, I spent considerable amounts of time reading every Conservation Committee report from its inception to the present, and documented in my notes a running list all of the issues that the club has engaged in either directly or indirectly. Here is just a fraction of that even larger list: uranium mining in the Eagle Cap Wilderness; the Army’s attempts to eliminate wildlife refuges; boundary changes to the Glacier Peak Limited Area; a presentation in 1956 on “The value of wilderness to American youth” by the Oberteuffers; an argument for salvage timber operations as a way to reduce pressure of harvest in wild or wilderness areas; protection of the Rogue River and the Malheur National Wildlife Refuges; protection of the Bridger Wilderness Area from mining, cattle, and oil/gas interests; opposition to a chairlift at Crater Lake National Park; the Oregon Dunes National Seashore; protection of Waldo Lake; establishment of the Mt Jefferson Wilderness; protection of the Kalmiopsis Wilderness; the Willamette National Wildlife Refuge; opposition to two tramways in the Gorge (to Munra and Crown Points); the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area; acquisition of Cascade Head; the Eagle Creek Semi-Wilderness area; and the protection of Oaks Bottom Area. Clearly covering it all would be unfeasible.
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Bill Oberteuffer (no date or place)
Selecting what deserved elaboration and what did not was an agonizing process. Ultimately I made my decision about what to discuss below based on a few simple criteria. First, would most of our membership not have been alive to remember it? For this reason, Mazama efforts to combat the expansion of the Cooper Spur Ski Area or the addition of solar panels to the MMC roof didn’t make the list, although they are an interesting part of our modern legacy. Second, conservation is as much about people as it is about places and wildlife, so for this reason Martha Platt was included, in part because her gender has left her less visible than many of the men who were her contemporaries and predecessors. Lastly, was there a sense of immediacy? It is not hard to find the legacy of Mazamas Conservation across the state of Oregon and the Northwest when you start looking. I included Mt. Hood and Forest Park for their familiarity. As a final note, this history is all available to the public through the Mazamas archive, and it is as easy to access as pulling the old Annuals from their shelves and diving into the reading. Hopefully, this piques your interest and inspires you to read more about the issues that I listed above but do not have the freedoms of unlimited word limit to elaborate on below.
THE MT. HOOD TRAMWAY BATTLE In the summer of 1926, a Portland-based promoter applied to the United States Forest Service for a permit to build and operate a cable car from Cloud Cap Inn to the summit. A committee of Mazamas was appointed to investigate the proposal. Former club president and committee head John A. Lee endorsed the project; the Executive Council, led by Fred Stadter, opposed, as did most of the membership. Four years later, the U.S. Secretary of Agriculture granted a permit to build the tramway. Fortunately, the Great Depression caused the project to die in part because of the requirement that, “all structures ... must be so designed architecturally as to hold to a minimum any adverse effect they may have upon the use and enjoyment of the area by the larger numbers (of people) who prefer to distribute themselves throughout the timberline zone (rather than use the facilities offered).” The issue ended up roiling the club and resulted in serious infighting among the membership. At issue was a disagreement about humankind’s impact in wild places.
John Lee, VM1995.003 P4
Fred Stadter, VM1995-003 P9
THE ORIGINS OF THE CONSERVATION COMMITTEE
Marth Platt, VM1995-001-002
In 1940, Mazama President Oscar A. Wilson appointed ex-president Edward Hughes chairman of the newly-formed Public Relations Committee, “whose function was to keep the Club in touch with state and federal legislation affecting wilderness conservation and related matters.” Hughes had been the president of the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs, and one of the primary roles that he undertook as the head of the Public Relations Committee was to lobby Congress and government bureau chiefs. This was the start of the Club’s more active participation in conservation on a national scale. Seven years later, the Conservation Committee was formed in 1947 to replace the Public Relations Committee, with L.A. Nelson as the sole member, but its status was deemed only temporary. One of the preceding decade’s biggest conservation problems for the Northwest was repeated attempts by industry and individuals to shrink the boundaries of the Olympic National Park, which had been authorized in 1938. The Club’s efforts to fight this was the first major effort by the Mazamas to save wilderness. In October of 1954, the Conservation Committee was finally organized into a standing committee with the requirement of having at least nine members. Martha Platt, Club President at the time, was key to this change.
continued on next page SEPTEMBER 2019 25
Five Events, continued from previous page MARTHA PLATT Perhaps no single person has left a greater impact on the legacy of the Mazamas conservation activities than Martha Platt. In 1954, she contributed an article to the Annual titled, “Can We Keep Our Wilderness Heritage?” in which she argued that there was a distinct threat to our national parks and monuments. In her retired president’s report, she argued for the necessity of the Conservation Committee as a tool to keep the membership informed. 1959, in Platt’s fourth year as chairperson of the Conservation Committee, she initiated “Conservation NOW," a four-page section of the monthly bulletin with the stated purpose “to ignite the interest and activity of the Mazamas membership by supplying up-to-date information on the current conservation matters compatible with the aims of the Club." The first volume contained nine articles covering the following issues: acquisition of lands by the Columbia River Gorge Commission, prevention of billboards on highways 30 and 99 as part of the Federal Highway Act, reestablishment of trumpeter swans in Oregon, the addition of Ladd Marsh south of La Grande as marsh habitat, and a hearing in Bend about Senate Bill 4028, which would establish wilderness areas. The “Conservation NOW” supplement to the Bulletin continued to run until March of 1963.
Platt Gibbons, VM1994–009 P304
CITY FOREST PARK What would eventually become Forest Park was described in the 1945 Annual by Fred Cleator and Harrie Jennison as a “wasteland that was logged off in the early days of Portland and since then has been repeatedly cut over and burned off by fires.” However they also noted that “Interested members of the Mazamas, with a feeling that something of a constructive nature should be done with this tract of land and with the approval of the proper authorities, have selected a fractional part of the area to use as an object lesson in forestry and wilderness recreation, with the idea of inciting public interest in the whole tract, so that in time, it will be set aside and developed as a sort of glorified arboretum.” With this goal in mind, over 6,000 trees and several bushels of nuts were planted by the Mazamas over the next couple of years with the intention of reforesting the property if possible. There were larger aspirations at play though. Many members of the Portland community imagined a massive forested park. As a consequence of advocacy work, including that by the Mazamas, in 1947 Portland City Council designated approximately 6,000 acres as a future boundary for Forest Park, which included within it 1,900 acres of city-owned land. Cleator and Jennison reported in the 1947 Annual that, “Mazama accomplishments leading up to the city’s decisive action are well known. Our Club has been in the vanguard from the start. No other agency has done as much reforesting and trail building. Our experimental plantings are already showing results which should be valuable to the city in its planning of the area. Mazamas had much to do with the decision that the Park will be kept in a natural state rather than be developed formally.” On September 25 of the following year, Forest Park was formally dedicated.
Forest Park, VM 2003-015-007
Forest Park, VM 2003-015-003
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A WILDERNESS BILL OF RIGHTS In the 1961 Annual, sitting U.S. Supreme Court judge William O. Douglas published an article titled “A Wilderness Bill of Rights” which four years later would be expanded into book form and published widely. In it, he argued for the value and necessity of wilderness in the United States. Widely considered to be an attack on the U.S.F.S., it was also assumed that the Club concurred with all of his statements. As early as 1957, the Conservation Committee had supported a Wilderness Bill and they were aware of drafts as early as 1956. Douglas’ piece was nevertheless a prominent perspective in the rising crescendo of voices calling for direct protection of wilderness areas by the federal government. When the Wilderness Act was passed in 1964, William Oberteuffer wrote in the Annual the following: “An outstanding conservation event of this past year was the passage of the Wilderness Bill by Congress. This culminated seven years of effort by wilderness organizations and enthusiasts. The question of how this bill will affect wilderness is largely yet to be answered. Your committee has been active in the promotion of wilderness bills throughout the past seven years and at the last hearings in January in Tacoma, Wn., presented a statement for the Mazamas.”
IN CONCLUSION The Mt. Hood Tramway Battle illustrates that the Mazamas will always struggle with internal disagreements over what the best course of action may be when dealing with issues of conservation and preservation, but the vision and work of both individuals, like Martha Platt, and groups, like the Conservation Committee, are the reasons why the list of accomplishments is so long—whether they be hyperlocal like the establishment of Forest Park or on the national scale like the passing of the Wilderness Act.
2019 Mazama Election EXECUTIVE COUNCIL The Mazamas Executive Council (Board of Directors) is comprised of nine members, each serving 3 year terms. Each year members vote for 3 new members, and 3 members finish their terms. 2019 EXECUTIVE COUNCIL CANDIDATES
Rick Amodeo
Jorgen Rufner
member since 2002
member since 2009
Jesse Applegate Amanda Ryan-Fear member since 2012
member since 2014
Darrin Gunkel member since 2012
Nominating Committee Candidates Patrick Beeson, member since 2016 Lynny Brown, member since 2015 Freda Sherburne, member since 1994 Barbara Weiss, member since 2009
Mazama Annual Meeting, Oct. 7, 2019
Voting Procedure E–VOTING: All Mazama members who have an email address on file with the Mazamas AND who did not opt-out of e-voting for the Mazama Annual Election, will receive an email to vote in the election on September 5. This email will include a link that is specific to you (if you share an email address with another member, you will receive two emails to that shared address, each with a unique link). You will click on this link to make your election choices. Once you have confirmed your selections you cannot change your vote. You must utilize this voting link by Oct. 7 at 3 p.m. No votes can be accepted after that time. VOTE BY MAIL: All Mazama members who opted-out of e-voting, or who do not have an email address on file with the Mazamas will receive a paper ballot by standard USPS mail. This ballot will arrive around September 5, and will include a voter pamphlet, ballot, and return envelope. Make your election choices, put your ballot in the return envelope, place a stamp on the envelope, and drop it in the mail. Paper ballots must be received by Oct. 7 at 3 p.m. to be counted. Ballots received after that time cannot be accepted.
SEPTEMBER 2019 27
CLASSICS For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.
NEW! CLASSICS HIKES See page 36 for all Mazama hikes, including classics hikes. You can also go to mazamas.org/classics to view and sign up for any classics event.
CONTACTING THE CLASSICS To contact the Classics: Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org.
SUPPORT THE CLASSICS Classics needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.
LEADING EVENTS IN OCTOBER If you want to lead an event please contact the Classics at classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.
CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Next meeting is Sept. 23 ( fourth Friday) at the MMC at 11 a.m. Our meetings are usually the fourth Monday of every other month, 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. at the MMC, in the library. Check the Bulletin or the website.
CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.
FRI. SEPT. 6: LODGE LUNCHEON Join the Mazama Classics for lunch at the Mazama Lodge. This luncheon's speaker will be Seth Moran, a volcano seismologist with the Cascades Volcano Observatory team working out of Vancouver, Washington. He will be speaking about Mt. Hood's history, hazards, and the work of the US Geological Survey and others in mitigation. Attendees are encouraged to arrive beginning at 11:30 a.m. and lunch will be served at noon. Sign up online or contact the office at 503-227-2345. If you would like to carpool to the Lodge, please meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 10 a.m. $5 donation.
FRI. DEC. 6: HOLIDAY LUNCHEON Mark your calendars now! Speaker TBD. 28 MAZAMAS
Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion at the Mazamas
by Claire Nelson, Youth and Outreach Program Manager
E
arlier this spring, the Mazama Executive Council voted to create a special Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) Working Group, to leverage the passion and knowledge of Mazama members and volunteers who are committed to furthering our work in this area. The Executive Council outlined three focus areas of work for the group: ▶▶ Coordinating internally with existing committees and teams regarding the Mazamas role in improving diversity, equity, and inclusion in the outdoors. ▶▶ Understanding what organizations already do great work in this area, and developing an understanding of how the Mazamas should be helping. When do we lead, when should we follow, and where should we just get out of the way? ▶▶ What training and additional communication is needed for committee, teams, and activity leaders to ensure that folks engaging with our organization feel welcome? The DEI Working group initially recruited members from Mazama committees, but is expanding outreach to anyone involved with the Mazamas who would like to help us reach the above goals, and beyond. The entire working group meets monthly, with project teams meeting as needed. If you are interested in joining the our Mazamas DEI Working Group, please email clairenelson@mazamas.org.
SEPTEMBER 2019 29
ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.
SEPTEMBER FEATURED EVENT: WHETSTON/OPAL LOOP, SUNDAY, SEPT. 29
In July, AYM Hike Leader Matt Reeder led a group of AYMs on a hike to Gnarl Ridge.
WANT TO BE FEATURED ON THE AYM INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT? TAG @AYMPDX IN YOUR PHOTOS OF MAZAMA ADVENTURES!
O
pal Creek is famous for its emerald pools and titanic oldgrowth forest, but few take the time to explore off the beaten trail in this area. Join AYM for a long loop over Whetstone Mountain and down into Battle Ax Creek and Opal Creek’s canyons. We’ll start at Opal Creek’s busy trailhead and follow the old road to the junction with the Whetstone Mountain Trail. We’ll then turn left here and hike uphill many miles to the summit of Whetstone Mountain. If the weather is clear we’ll have a view here from the Washington Cascades to the Three Sisters. From there, we’ll continue along the ridgeline to a junction with the Gold Creek Trail. We turn right here and hike downhill to a bridgeless but easy crossing of Battle Ax Creek. From there, we’ll follow the old road to Opal Pool, and then back through stupendous old-growth Check the website at mazamas.org/AYM to the Opal Creek Trailhead. Plan and the AYM Meetup page frequently on a long and rewarding day. Hike for the most up to date schedule. All trips Leader: Matt Reeder are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted.
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LEADER SPOTLIGHT:
RYAN ABBOTT HOMETOWN? I moved too much to call anywhere home, but for now, I’m claiming Beaverton.
YEARS WITH THE MAZAMAS? I’ve been a member for two years. I’d been hiking and climbing long before that, but after I moved back here, I didn’t know anyone. Eventually, I got on a Mt. Adams climb and met a cool guy named Greg, who invited me to help out with BCEP and I started blowing the dust off of things, learning stuff, and meeting people.
WHAT TRIPS ARE YOU MOST EXCITED TO LEAD? It would be bucket list grade fun to go back to Chamonix someday and lead a team around the Tour du Mont Blanc and then up to the summit. More reasonable fun would be leading exploratory hikes and seeing parts of the Pacific Northweset I've I’ve never been to.
WHAT IS ONE THING THAT YOU ALWAYS BRING ON A HIKE THAT IS NOT ONE OF THE 10 ESSENTIALS? Bootlaces. It was some advice I got from someone so far in the distant past I can’t even remember who gave it to me. It seems like a weird thing to have and I never needed them until last year when I had a bootlace snap at 8,000 ft. on Mt. Jefferson. My climbing buddy turned an interesting shade of pale until I pulled out some old, but never been used, bootlaces. Whoever gave me that advice was either a wizard or had a very bad day.
WHEN YOU WERE A KID, WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU GREW UP AND WHY? I wanted to teach music and history. Other subjects were great skills that let you do specific things, but music and history was a way to explore and understand yourself and the world in tangible and intangible ways. Teaching would make me take a deep dive and then share what I found.
WHAT IS ONE SURPRISING THING THAT PEOPLE DON'T USUALLY KNOW ABOUT YOU? One time, I hypnotized a chicken. For work.
PEOPLE SHOULD SIGN UP FOR A TRIP WITH YOU IF... Sign up for trips with me if you like adventure off the beaten path or on neglected, lesser known, or underrated excursions.
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Mazama Conservation Committee OREGON’S FORESTS: OUR BEST DEFENSE AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE ▶▶ What is Oregon’s most important defense against climate change? Our forests. ▶▶ What is the origin of our clean water for drinking and for our salmon? Our forests. ▶▶ What law governs how we keep our forests and streams healthy? The Oregon Forest Practices Act (OFPA).
Top: Coastal forests unlogged. Bottom: Current Oregon Forest Practice rules permitted 82 percent of the watershed supplying water for Rockaway Beach to be logged and aerially sprayed with pesticides within a short period of time
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When Oregonians first started harvesting our old growth forests, landowners could do pretty much what they wanted—there were no rules or regulations governing harvest methods, reforestation after harvest, or protection for streams, lakes, and wetlands. In the 1970s, Oregon took the lead in crafting the country’s first Forest Practices Act (OFPA). Though an important step, the OFPA has proven inadequate to protect the health of our forests and our water. Current rules don’t protect water quality because they allow logging of trees too close to streams, removing shade and wood sources needed to form healthy instream habitat, and introducing sediment from clearcuts and roads to forest waters. Logging of very steep slopes increases the risk of harmful landslides. These effects violate state water quality standards established to protect salmon and people, and increase the cost of drinking water treatment to local communities. This month we present an abridged version of an article by Mary Scurlock of the Oregon Stream Protection Coalition highlighting urgently needed changes to the current OFPA to protect our streams and forests as we face climate change. Please see the Trails Club of Oregon website for the original unabridged article.
Strengthen Oregon’s Forest Practices Act to Protect Water, Wildlife, and Climate by Mary Scurlock, Oregon Stream Protection Coalition
T
he two largest owners of Oregon’s forested lands are the federal government (60 percent) and private industrial timber companies (22 percent), followed by small private timber owners (12 percent) . The good news is that the 1994 federal Northwest Forest Plan dramatically reduced forest habitat degradation on federal lands. The bad news is that about 11 million acres of state and private forest—over 35 percent of Oregon’s forests—are being logged more intensively than before federal reforms.
WHAT IS THE OREGON FOREST PRACTICES ACT? The Oregon Forest Practices Act authorizes the Board of Forestry to set rules for logging of state and private forests to protect water and wildlife belonging to the public. (The act and rules to implement it appear in 135 pages of small print at https://www.oregon.gov/ODF/Documents/WorkingForests/ FPARuleBook2018Final.pdf.) Most of the water protection rules in effect today were adopted in 1994 as a result of public concern over stream temperature increases, sediment pollution, and habitat degradation. While a vast improvement over prior standards, these rules did not reflect expert scientific support at that time for 100-foot unharvested buffers on all fish-bearing streams. Instead, harvest was allowed beyond 20 feet of stream channels with low tree retention requirements within 50, 70, and 100 feet of small, medium, and large fish-bearing streams, respectively. In practice, clearcutting routinely occurs down to 20 feet of most fish streams, leaving a buffer only 1–2 trees deep and vulnerable to blowdown. Protection is also weak for small headwater streams and unstable slopes, and roadrelated problems are not fully addressed. Further, there are cumulative watershed effects of short-rotation clearcut logging on stream flows: Although each clearcut size is limited to125 acres, adjacent clearcuts are allowed as soon as replanted seedlings reach 4 feet or 4 years, allowing clearcuts or young tree plantations to dominate entire watersheds. Since 1994, a few rule changes have marginally improved water protection, most notably a small increase in the riparian buffer areas for small and medium streams which have salmon, steelhead, or bull trout (SSBT streams) in parts of western Oregon. However, Oregon remains far behind Washington, California, and Idaho in key respects: ▶▶ Fish streams: Compared to Oregon’s 20-foot no-cut
buffers, Washington requires 50-foot no-cut buffers and California requires at least 30 feet. Oregon’s largest riparian management area (RMA, the area where some tree retention is required) is 100 feet (large fish streams), but Washington restricts harvest out to 200 feet, and California mandates significant tree retention out 150-200 feet. ▶▶ Perennial non-fish streams: These sensitive headwater streams provide habitat for amphibians and feed larger streams. Oregon requires no retention of harvestable trees on the vast majority of small non-fish streams, but California has a 15-foot no-cut buffer and high tree retention to 85 feet, Idaho has high retention 30 feet out from streambanks, and Washington has 50-foot no-cut buffers on most of these streams. ▶▶ Landslide protections. In Washington, prior approval of forest operations in areas at high risk for landslides is required to make sure logging and associated activities won’t increase risks to forest waters or public safety. In Oregon, these areas are routinely logged without state approval or any requirement to prevent increased landslides. ▶▶ Aerial Spray of Forest Chemicals. Washington takes the most cautious approach to aerial spray of pesticides around water, with no-spray buffers from 50 to 325 feet for streams. Idaho prohibits aerial spray within 100 feet of all surface waters. California is more cautious around people, with a quarter-mile (1,320 feet) daytime buffer around schools and daycare centers, while Washington has a general 200-foot exclusion zone around residences. In contrast, Oregon’s largest generally applicable spray buffer for streams, schools and dwellings is a mere 60 feet—while most smaller streams have no buffer at all (0 feet) from spraying.
continued on next page
SEPTEMBER 2019 33
OFPA, continued from previous page WHY IS CHANGE SO HARD? WHY HAS OREGON LAGGED SO FAR BEHIND ITS NEIGHBORS? There is no single answer to this question, but one answer is that the OFPA leaves too much to the Board of Forestry’s discretion. Opposition to improved regulation by private property and corporate timber lobbies has effectively stymied critically needed updates to the rules, indicating that legislation is needed.
WHAT KINDS OF CHANGES ARE NEEDED? 1.
2.
3.
Increase minimum buffer sizes for aerial spray and “no-cut” buffers for logging along streams, and require prior approval of operations on high-landslide hazard locations. Eliminate conflicts of interest on policymaking boards, and timber dominance of advisory committees. Oregon allows conflicts of interest in setting timber policies by the Board of Forestry that would otherwise be prohibited under state ethics laws. Advisory panels are dominated by timber interests, with inadequate representation from other sectors of the public with valid affected interests, such as outdoor recreation and salmon fisheries representatives, and conservation organizations. Authorize the Board to change rules based on best available information. For example, information available in 2000 indicated allowable logging caused stream warming, but over a decade of research and deliberation ensued before the Board formally acknowledged in 2012 that illegal stream temperature elevation was occurring, which led to the 2017 rules change. Continuing ecological harm occurred unabated during all those years, and is still occurring in the Siskiyou Region because the Board deemed research conducted in the Coast Range to be inapplicable. Furthermore, the Board used its discretionary power to enact new buffer widths far short of what best available science indicated was needed.
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4.
Public policy should support 120-year rotations to maximize carbon storage and other ecological benefits. The progressively shorter time from tree planting to harvest, once 60-80 years but now often less than 45 years, means more risk to water and wildlife and less carbon sequestration. A blend of regulation, targeted investment, and incentives is needed to steer private lands toward longer harvest rotations.
Other western states have demonstrated in the past 25 years the economic feasibility of stronger regulation of logging to protect forest and water health. Our forests provide our best source for carbon sequestration, and have beneficial effects on local weather, with cooling of air temperature and more precipitation in times of drought. Healthy forests and our clean, cold waters are our best defense against climate change. It’s time for Oregonians to update the Oregon Forest Practices Act.
WHAT CAN A MAZAMA DO? Email, call, or write your local State Legislator asking for revision of the OFPA to better protect the waters of the state. Educate those around you about the OFPA, and the need for better protection of our forest waters. Go to forestwaters.org to learn more about the collaborative efforts of several environmental groups to produce a ballot initiative to revise the OFPA. The Conservation Committee has read the rough draft and supports this initiative. We hope we have given you enough information that you will feel you can support it too. Find time sometime in the next few weeks to simply stand in a forest, not plunging off on a conditioning hike, but just standing or sitting, and smell, listen, and look. Pay attention to the ground cover, the forest duff, the little native shrubs, the hardwoods, as well as the great conifers. And contemplate what our forests mean to Oregon, and to all Oregonians. Thank you!
SMITH ROCK CLIMBERS’ RANCH UPDATE
It’s been couple of months since we announced the decision to sell the property and it’s time for another update. The property has been appraised, tidied up and is officially for sale. We are pleased with the appraisal. It shows that the property has appreciated significantly and has been a good investment for the Mazamas. The proceeds will allow Mazamas to recoup what was spent in the attempt to develop it as a Climbers Ranch (Traditional B&B + campground). ▶▶ Address: 10050 NE Crooked River Drive Terrebonne, Ore. (directly across from Smith Rock St Park entrance). ▶▶ House: 1877 sq. ft. 3-bed/2-bath ▶▶ Shop building: 30x48 (1440 sq. ft. half improved as living area w/ 1-bd/1-ba and half as unimproved shop area) ▶▶ Other improvements: Decks and 19x18 carport w/ enclosed storage area. ▶▶ Land area: 1.97 acres. Zoned MUA-10. Irrigation rights. ▶▶ Price: $535,000 Please contact Bronson Potter bronsonpotter@mazamasfoundation.org and jeffhawkins@mazamasfoundation.org if you are interested in the property.
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TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. Hike leaders, to schedule a hike next month, go to: mazamas.org, login, and schedule. UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED, ALL HIKES LISTED BELOW ARE AVAILABLE FOR SIGNUP ON OUR WEBSITE! HEAD ON OVER TO MAZAMAS.ORG/HIKING TO GET MORE DETAILS. FIND THE HIKE YOU WANT TO GO ON, CLICK ON THE LINK, AND FOLLOW THE SIGNUP PROMPTS.
HK B2.5 Sunday, Sept. 1. Tillamook Head (Seaside-Ecola). Leader: Ryan C. Abbott, rcabbott12@gmail.com, 503-2789380. Hike through a lush green coastal forest with old growth trees, a WWII bunker, and peekaboo views of the Pacific Ocean and lighthouse that's one mile off shore (Terrible Tilly). This trail will wind its way from Seaside to Ecola State Park on the north side of Cannon Beach. We will meet at the Target on 185th and Hwy 26 at 6:50 a.m. for team check-in and finalize carpool arrangements (including the car shuttle). We will depart for the coast at 7 a.m. Our starting point will be the Tillamook Head Trailhead at the entrance to the Elmer Feldenheimer wilderness in Seaside and will end at Indian Beach in Ecola State Park. This trail is renowned for being mucky at times, so be prepared to get dirty. Target & SW 185th at 6:50 a.m. HK A1.5 Tuesday, Sept. 3. Lolo Pass to Lost Lake Trailhead. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@comcast.net, 503-658-5710. Follow the PCT along the ridge above Bull Run Lake and Lost Lake. 6 miles, 300 ft. elevation gain. Meet at the MMC at 9 a.m. MMC Parking Lot at 9 a.m. Classics. HK C2.5 Wednesday, Sept. 4. Salmon Butte Hike. Leader: Bruce Giordano, brucegiord32@gmail.com, 503-477-6013. The Salmon Butte Trail #791 is one of the more popular trails in the SalmonClass A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 ft. elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 ft. elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ ft. elevation gain. Class D: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contacting leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.
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Huckleberry Wilderness, but the hike got longer by about 2 miles and gained more elevation with the decommissioning of FR 2618 in 2010. Like other SalmonHuckleberry Wilderness trails, the optimal time to visit is on a clear day in June, when the rhododendrons, beargrass, and other wildflowers are in full bloom and the views from the summit of Salmon Butte stretch from Mt. Rainier to the Three Sisters. Provides some good elevation gain which is rather gradual on a soft, well maintained trail. Hike is mostly in forest but provides some great views of mountains from the summit if we have clear conditions. Meeting at MMC. Plan to leave at 8 a.m. so please arrive by at least 7:50 to allow time to arrange carpools. HK B2.5 Sunday, Sept. 8. Lamberson Butte. Leader: Ryan C. Abbott, rcabbott12@gmail.com, 503-2789380. Named after Mazama Lewis H. Lamberson, who scrambled up the butte in 1895, this impressive hike takes us up Gnarl Ridge to Lamberson Butte for impressive views of Mt. Hood, the Newton Clark Glacier, and Newton Creek. We'll meet at the MMC parking lot at 6:50 a.m. for a team check and to finalize carpool arrangements before departing at 7 a.m. for the Elk Meadow Trailhead. More info upon acceptance. MMC parking lot at 6:50 a.m.
Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. Hike fees/Snowshoe/Nordic Costs: $2 for members, $4 nonmembers; Backpack Costs: Vary depending on trip. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry
HK A1.5 Tuesday, Sept. 10. Mazama Classics 4T Hike. Leader: Ernest (Buzz) R Lindahl, erlindahl@gmail.com, 503-2880772. Plan to meet at the Zoo at the 4T trail kiosk, near the east end of the MAX elevator. You can buy an all-day MAX pass here good for the MAX and the trolley. The trail is about 4.1 miles long and has an elevation gain of about 800 ft. Dress for the weather and wear good shoes; there is always a chance for mud. Bring water and snacks for yourself. From the trail, we will emerge at OHSU. From there, we will take the Tram down to the south waterfront. This will take about 3 minutes. The next "t" is for the trolley, which we will take from the waterfront to downtown Portland, where we will transfer to the MAX train for the trip back to the zoo. We can pick a place for lunch on this hike. OHSU has a nice cafeteria or there are many fine places downtown. Hope for good weather! Sign up online or email the leader. Meet at the Oregon Zoo MAX Elevator at 9:30 a.m. HK C2.5 Wednesday, Sept. 11. Whetstone Mountain Ridge. Leader: Larry Solomon, muensterhump@hotmail. com, 503-206-6580. The longer version of the Whetstone Mountain trail. The trail features 25 switchbacks, but hikers are rewarded with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains at the top. Experience beautiful Bull of the Woods
and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage.–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver. 99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes, and
carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
MT. TABOR RAMBLES, WEDNESDAYS, 6 P.M. AT THE MMC Ramblers will leave from the front steps of the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 6 p.m. and walk as a group to the top of Mt. Tabor, where participants will have the option of walking around the paved circle for up to 30 minutes or taking a rest break as needed. In the past, when returning to the MMC some participants have chosen to stop for dinner/ refreshments at the food carts along Belmont. Suggested items to carry/ wear include a bright shirt/jacket, flashlight or headlamp, rain protection, comfortable shoes, and money for food and/or beverages.
Wilderness with a hike that includes 25 switchbacks to the summit. Close up view of Mt. Jefferson and panoramic views from Mt. Rainier to the Sisters to Mary's Peak on the coast. Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) at 7:30 a.m. HK A1.5 Thursday, Sept. 12. Wilson River Trail: Tillamook Visitor Center. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@comcast.net, 503-658-5710. Follow the Wilson River past barely-visible Wilson Falls to bridge across the river to large falls. 6 miles, 500 ft. Meet at the MMC parking lot at 9 a.m. Classics. HK A2.5 Saturday, Sept. 13. Canyon Creek Meadows. Leader: Eric Hall, erichall@q.com, 503-236-5834. Popular central Oregon hike in the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness. We'll hike to a high alpine meadow, and continue up a glacial moraine to a high point encompassing views of a cirque lake and the jagged spires of Three Fingered Jack. 7.5 miles, 1,600 feet. Meet at the USDA Forest Service/Sisters Ranger District at 9 a.m. HK B2.5 Sunday, Sept. 14. Belknap Crater. Leader: Eric Hall, erichall@q.com, 503-236-5834. Hike a section of the PCT through expansive lava fields in the Mt. Washington Wilderness. Scramble up the 6,800 foot crater for views of North and Middle Sisters. 8 miles, 1,700 feet. Meet at the Forest Service/Sisters Ranger District at 9 a.m.
READY TO SIGN UP ONLINE?
Many hikes have limited spots available. Sign up online today to secure your spot. Are you a first time user? Go to mazamas.org/gettingstarted to learn how to create your account. It’s simple, and should take no more than 5 minutes to get up and running. Please review the information at mazamas.org/gettingstarted carefully before creating your account. If you still have questions after reading the information, email us at help@mazamas.org.
HK A2.5 Monday, Sept. 15. Tam McArthur Rim. Leader: Eric Hall, erichall@q.com, 503-236-5834. Popular hike on the east shoulder of Broken Top. The viewpoint, at 7,700 feet, offers spectacular views of Broken Top, the Three Sisters, Belknap Crater, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, and Three Creeks Lake. 6 miles, 1,300 feet. Meet at the Forest Service/Sisters Ranger District at 9 a.m. HK B1.5 Wednesday, Sept. 17. Lava Canyon. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@ comcast.net, 503-658-5710. Lovely Lava Canyon hike, 7 miles. Meet at the MMC parking lot at 9 a.m. Classics. HK A2.5 Wednesday, Sept. 17. Warrior Rock / Sauvie Island. Leader: Don McCoy, donald1020@aol.com, 503-246-7416. Take a quiet, flat stroll out to the northern tip of Sauvie Island. You will be traveling through a state wildlife refuge and visiting the Warrior Rock Lighthouse. This is a dog-friendly hike. Well-behaved, leashed dogs are welcome, but you don't need a dog to attend. An ODFW pass is needed and can be purchased at the Cracker Barrel Store. We will meet at the Cracker Barrel Store, 15005 NW Sauvie Island Road at 9 a.m. If you need a ride from Portland, you can call me at 503-709-9306.
HK B2.5 Friday, Sept. 20. Table Rock. Leader: Alice Brocoum, alicevivianb@ gmail.com, 503-821-6454. Table Rock is a 4,881-foot remnant of the Old Cascades jutting above the Camp Creek and Table Rock Fork of the Molalla River drainages, and buttressed by sheer cliffs of lichensplashed columnar basalt. In addition to panoramic views, we will have close-up views of two ages of rocks: 17-10 millionyear-old andesite at the base and 4 myo basalt at the summit. Pikas have been heard on the talus slopes, and white gentians seen along the trail in fall. Meet at the MMC parking lot at 8 a.m. HK C2.5 Sunday, Sept. 22. Indian Henry's (via the Kautz Creek Trail). Leader: Ryan C. Abbott, rcabbott12@ gmail.com, 503-278-9380. We'll begin at the Kautz Creek Trailhead in Mt. Rainier National Park and hike to the iconic home of So-To-Lick (Indian Henry) who guided several people, including John Muir, up large sections of Mt. Rainier. The trail is an out-and-back that covers 3,800 ft. of elevation gain and is 11 miles roundtrip. The 5.5 miles to our destination is a steep but steady climb that never let's up until just before we drop into the meadow at Indian Henry's. If you're ready for great views and a great conditioning opportunity, this hike is for you. Please be in adequate physical condition to complete the hike before signing up. More information on acceptance. 99th Street Transit Center Park & Ride at 5:50 a.m.
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THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting is on Tuesday, Sept. 17. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting by sending an email to adventure@mazamas.org and making a request.
by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager President Laura Pigion called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 4 p.m. on Tuesday, August 20. Laura noted the focus of the meeting would be on the FY2020 budget, Bylaws, and roles and responsibilities work. Following approval of the agenda, Laura received approval for the July minutes. Laura also noted that membership, as of the end of July, stands at 3,516. Treasurer Traci Manning gave an overview of the June financials. Total operating revenue was $961,742, with operating expenses of $1,207,201. Assets were $1,106,418. Both income and expenses are tracking budget. In her Acting Executive Director Report, Sarah Bradham provided a brief update on staffing and upcoming events. Our new Executive Director, Mitsu Iwasaki, will start on August 30. Mathew, Tim, Claire, and Laura are all taking time off in the coming weeks. Sarah is planning a two week vacation in late September, early October. In future events, the annual meeting is Monday, October 7, and the Portland Alpine Fest Summit is Saturday, November 16. In internal reporting, Sarah noted that the MQL project has made solid progress over the last month and expects to run its first two pilot programs, Top Rope Climbing and Trad Climbing, with 6-person cohorts later this fall. Security updates to the MMC are on hold and emergency response planning continues. Sarah and President Laura Pigion met with the Foundation Board. They received approval an operational grant for FY20, with the commitment for stronger financial controls.
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The Mazamas have seen a 125 percent increase in membership dues for Oregon Outdoors as compared to FY19. Staff is on track to have all education and activities information for the 2019–20 education year audited on the Mazama website by August 23. Adventure WILD ran eight successful weeks of youth camp and the pilot program for Adventure CLIMB was also successful. Both programs will run again next year. The continuation of Mazama Mountain Science School is contingent on discussions with one school district. The Mazamas125 event was successful with appx. 300–400 people attending. Sarah and Mitsu have met several times and his onboarding sessions will continue through September. Marty Scott gave an update on the Executive Director transition. Communications have gone out to staff, stakeholders, and the general membership. In general, the news was met with a positive response. President Laura Pigion addressed the question of forming a Bylaws working group. She recommended waiting until Mitsu is on board and involved from the beginning. Laura will put the formation of the working group on the agenda for the September meeting. Treasurer Traci Manning gave an update on the committee roles and responsibilities work. Board members Traci Manning, Laura Guderyahn, and staff member Tim Scott have met with roughly half of the committees to discuss the roles and responsibilities between the board, committees, and staff. Once all meetings are complete,
the next step is to review committee documents and get them finalized. President Laura Pigion then led a discussion about the fiscal year 2020 budget. Noting that the Foundation is providing a significant operational funds, there is no guarantee of funding for FY21. She stressed the need to hold to our budget and to both trim any excess spending and increase revenue in FY20. The budget passed by unanimous vote of the board. Treasurer Traci Manning made a motion to create a board Finance Committee, motion passed. Board members Marty Scott, Traci Manning, and Joe Eberhardt are members. The committee will focus on monitoring the budget, increased financial oversight, and directly participating in development and revenue generation. The committee will remain in effect until October 7. The public portion of the meeting ended with the board expressing their deep gratitude and appreciation to Sarah for all her hard work as acting executive director. Laura Guderyahn composed and recited a limerick: “For all the time, Lost sleep, counting dimes, Difficult conversations, And endless stores of patience, Thank You (underlined).” No members chose to speak during the member comment period. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, August 20 at 4 p.m.
We love these places. *
*Love is a verb; without action, it is merely a word.
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Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon
PORTLAND ALPINE FEST
Nov. 11–17, 2019
Ticket Sales Open: Sept. 4 Mark your calendar now!
The Summit, Nov. 16 at the Redd (SE Portland)
Speaker: Lynn Hill
Presented by Grivel. Hosted by the Mazamas. portlandalpinefest.org
