Franรงois Cazzanelli Valtournenche, Aosta Valley, Italy Photo: Lorenzo Belfrond for Grivel
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G20 PLUS libertymountain.com โ ข sales@libertymountain.com 9816 South Jordan Gateway (500 West) Sandy, UT 84070
Left: Megan Banker, PAFlete 2019. Instructor for Intro to Plus Sized Climbing. Below Top: PAFlete Jason Martin of AAI. Below Bottom: PAFlete Molly Mitchell. Photo: Scott Crady. Cover: Katie Mills on her Canadian Expedition.
FEATURES Everybody Rambles, p. 8 Portland Alpine Fest: Special Section, p.14–30 • The Summit, p. 16 • Speaker Series, p. 18 • Portland Ice Comp, p. 18 • PAFlete: John Barkhausen, p. 20 • PAF Photo of the Year, p. 30 Advanced Rock, p. 22
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):
Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
MONTHLY CONTENT
Upcoming Activities, p. 4 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Executive Director's Report, p. 7 Membership Report, p. 12 Successful Climbers, p. 12 Saying Goodbye, p. 13 Executive Council, p. 21
Evening Travel Programs, p. 22 AYM, p. 24 Classics, p. 24 Mazama Outings, p. 25 Mazama Lodge, p. 25 Mazama Library, p. 26 Trail Trips, p. 28
ADVERTISER INDEX American Alpine Institute, p. 17 Arc'teryx, p. 6 Beal, p. 19 Cassin, p. 17 Davis Financial, p. 11 Ever Wild, p. 7 Grivel, p. 2 Icebreaker, p. 6 Kaf Adventures, p. 19 Leki, p. 11 Lowa, p. 6 Made Here PDX, p. 17 MSR, p. 19 Mountain Shop, p. 31
Next Adventure, p. 13 Oregon Nordic Club, p. 13 Patagonia, p. 7 Petzl, p. 19 Rab, p. 19 Sawyer International. p. 17 Source Climbing, p. 17 Thermarest, p. 17 Trail Butter, p. 6 Union Wine, p. 11 Vaqas Malik Photography, p. 5 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising
NOVEMBER 2019 3
UPCOMING ACTIVITIES & EVENTS BACKCOUNTRY SKI TOURING 2020: REGISTRATION OPENS November 5
The Mazama Backcountry Ski Touring Program ( formerly called Ski Mountaineering) is designed to teach you the skills, attitude, and awareness necessary to safely enjoy the many backcountry ski opportunities that exist in the Cascades and beyond. Ski mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest can span the spectrum from multi-day traverses, to skiing off the summits of local volcanoes, to just basking in the sunshine on the south side of Mt. Hood in July. Each tour has its special joys and dangers.
PP8-week course PP7 lectures at the Mazama Mountaineering Center PP7 field sessions PPBadges earned: Backcountry Ski Touring, Navigation, Avalanche Awareness PPGet more info: mazamas.org/skimountaineering
NORDIC 2020: REGISTRATION OPENS
November 12
The Mazama Nordic Ski School strives to meet students at their current skill level and take them up a notch (or two!). Whether you've never strapped into a ski binding, are an alpine skier who wants a new challenge, a ski mountaineer who wants to improve your skill set, or a nordic skier who is ready for the next level—this class is for you!
PP4-week course PPMeet Your Instructor Orientation PP3 field sessions PPBadges earned: Nordic Intro, Intermediate, or Advanced (based on the level you complete) PPGet more info: mazamas.org/nordic
HIKE LEADER FIRST AID:
FALL SESSION 2 November 18
The Heartsaver® 'First Aid/CPR AED' course is designed to prepare students to provide first aid, perform CPR and use an automated external defibrillator (AED) in a safe, timely, and effective manner. This is a blended-learning course—you will be completing coursework online and participating in an in-person skills test at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC). Under this system, students complete the videos at their own pace at home. Upon completion, students print a completion certificate and bring it with them to the skills practice and test session at the MMC. Students receive a 2-year certification. 4 MAZAMAS
PORTLAND ALPINE FEST Nov. 11–17 Get full details at portlandalpinefest.org
BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM The Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) 2020 is right around the corner and to be successful it takes a village. This village includes team leaders, volunteers, assistants, and students. Once BCEP gets underway learning is centered around weekly lectures with team breakouts, skill sessions at the MMC, snow weekend at Timberline, rock weekend at Horsethief Butte, and planned team hikes. If you’ve been a part of a BCEP team or if you’re looking for a way to give back, consider volunteering for BCEP 2020! Maybe you've been thinking about taking BCEP and this is your year to go for it! NOTABLE DATES:
PPJanuary 9: Information Night PPJanuary: Registration Process PPFebruary: Student Acceptance & Team Selections PPMarch 10: First lecture PPApril 28: Last lecture PPMay 2: Practical skills test This is a great time to start asking yourself what your role in BCEP MMXX will be. For more information, reach out to BCEP@mazamas.org
MAZAMA RESEARCH GRANT PROGRAM
Request for Proposals
The Mazama Research Committee is now accepting research grant proposals for funding in 2020. The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments. We support scientific research, including the collection and dissemination of scientific information regarding mountain and wilderness environments. Research of geologic features, biological communities, and human endeavors pertaining to the understanding, enjoyment and safety of outdoor recreation are some of the relevant research topics supported by the Mazamas. All information regarding Mazamas research grants, including the Request for Proposals and Application Instructions, can be found at mazamas.org/researchgrants. Funding will be awarded in the spring of 2020. Please address any inquiries to the Mazamas Research Committee (research@ mazamas.org).
WHY PRONOUNS? by Claire Nelson
PARTNER EVENT: UNCLIMB NIGHT Dec. 1, 4–6 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center This event is led by a partner organization. Are you a part of the BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, and People of Color) community and/ or the LGBTQ community? Wild Diversity invites you to Un-Climb Night, a place where you can unlearn everything you have experienced in climbing culture and be a part of building a community centered around you. Get more info online at tinyurl.com/unclimboctober2019.
REEL ROCK 14 Dec. 9 & 10 at Revolution Hall Doors open at 6 p.m.; show starts at 7 p.m. The REEL ROCK Film Tour, one of climbing's greatest celebrations, returns this fall with a new collection of world premiere films. In The High Road, the powerful and bold Nina Williams tests herself on some of the highest, most difficult boulder problems ever climbed. In United States of Joe's, climbers collide with a conservative coal mining community in rural Utah, to surprising results. And in The Nose Speed Record, legends Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold battle Yosemite dirtbags Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright in a high stakes race for greatness. Get tickets : tinyurl.com/pdxreelrock14
BACKCOUNTRY FILM FEST Jan. 31 & Feb. 1 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Calling all “go big or go home” winter enthusiasts! Get ready to get goosebumps while you “Ooh!” and “Ahh!” at the impact and importance of our winter wildlands through this collection of short films. Produced each year as a celebratory, backcountry community event by the Winter Wildlands Alliance, the 15th Annual Backcountry Film Festival film line-up is full of snowy, cinematic adventure sure to inspire both the local backcountry and general communities. Winter Wildlands Alliance is a national nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting and preserving winter wildlands and a quality human-powered snow sports experience on public lands. Get details: mazamas.org/backcountryfilmfest
Y
ou may have noticed something new on your nametag at the Mazama Annual Meeting this year: pronouns! While some members may be familiar with the practice of sharing pronouns, for others this is new territory. So, why pronouns? As I learned at Bridge 13’s LGBTQ Equity Training, hosted at the Mazama Mountaineering Center on October 15, “pronouns [he, she, they, and more] are a big part of many languages, and a common way many of us refer to one another in conversations. Using someone’s pronouns correctly is an important part of showing basic respect, just like using someone’s correct name.”* Sometimes, you cannot tell what pronouns a person uses just by looking at them, or you may assume incorrectly. Asking only certain individuals to share their pronouns, can isolate people from a group. Giving everyone the opportunity to share the pronouns they use on their nametag is one way to help everyone feel more respected and welcomed in our mountain community. Try incorporating this at your next class or committee meeting, or, if you have more questions about pronouns, email dei@ mazamas.org, or visit mypronouns.org/inclusivelanguage to learn more. *Bridge 13 Community Education: Navigating Pronouns, pg. 13.
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES TREE PLANTING: SANDY RIVER DELTA Nov. 2: FULL CASCADIA WILD: WOLVERINE TRACKING PROJECT Volunteers are needed this winter to help with a long term community science project studying rare carnivores on Mt. Hood. Help search for wolverine and wolves, study the distribution of rare montane red fox, and document other resident carnivores. HELP WITH EITHER SURVEY METHOD: ▶▶ Wildlife cameras ▶▶ Snow tracking surveys—learn to read footprints in the snow! ▶▶ Enjoy group snowshoe trips, connect with the natural world, learn about wildlife, and help increase knowledge of rare carnivores.
More info: cascadiawild.org/join-the-wtp.html NOVEMBER 2019 5
ALPINE EXPERT GTX
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9/30/19 9:52 AM
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR'S REPORT
M
azamas fiscal year was defined in original bylaws in 1896 to begin on October 1. That same 125 year-old bylaw has informed us to elect three new executive council members into 3-year terms at the start of every fiscal year. Our outgoing Executive Council members, Laura Pigon, Marty Scott, and Amad Doratotaj deserve our deepest gratitude for their service to steward our mission and support staff, committees, and members. During their short time, they have helped to move the Mazamas towards a more inclusive environment, overseen countless projects and committees, envisioned and developed a strategic plan, and oversaw a leadership transition. As they depart from the executive council, Amanda Ryan-Fear, Rick Amodeo, and Jesse Applegate will be taking their seats at the executive council with fresh energy and aspirations. We have opportunities ahead. With new members, new officers, and new energy into the executive council we will be tackling difficult challenges. Over the next three months, our focus will be to develop the foundations: our infrastructure, our construct, and our relationships to tackle pressing challenges and to ensure we continue to strengthen and continue to be a relevant organization. With input from members, we will be committing resources into clarifying our identity and purpose, developing a clearer future vision, and more effectively aligning all of our work. Through this process of greater clarity, we will aspire to increase understanding and transparency through resources into more effectively communicating internally, among our membership, and externally, the whole of our activities, to the larger mountain community. Among the most compelling quality of the Mazamas is our community in which volunteers drive the mission and where volunteer members support each other and their learning—it is the best of mountain community.
Thank you,
DREW SMITH © 2019 Patagonia, Inc.
Mitsu Iwasaki Mazamas Executive Director
EVER �ILD A Lifetime on Mount Adams
AN OVERLOOKED MOUNTAIN. AT LAST, A MOUNT ADAMS BOOK! Text and Photography by DARRYL
LLOYD
Lloyd has long been striding that “high ridge” where, Vladimir Nabokov said, “the mountainside of ‘scientific’ knowledge joins the opposite slope of ‘artistic’ imagination”— and in this Book of Wonders, he takes us there. Robert Michael Pyle, Author of Wintergreen, The Butterflies of Cascadia, Where Bigfoot Walks, and twenty other books
Order your copy of Ever Wild today, online at:
www.mtadamsbook.com
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10/21/19 12:48 PM
NOVEMBER 2019 7
10/12/19 3:24 PM
Everybody Rambles I Photos & article by Claire Tenscher
t’s 5:50 p.m. on a cool October evening, and a large group of people dressed for hiking are striding out of the Pearl REI, moving in clumps, and are unusual for their quantity and familiarity. They gather just inside the parking lot, some greet each other, others tighten their shoe laces or stretch using concrete pylons as balance aids. A whiteboard lists six routes with photos of smiling hike leaders. We’re gathered here for a winter ramble, all six groups will disperse precisely at 6 p.m., streaming out of the garage for our two-hour adventures of choice. If you’ve never joined a ramble here’s a primer. The evening of each ramble, a large group gathers in the REI parking lot. A handful of hike leaders select routes ranging from a slow paced 4-mile walk to an 8-mile hike with downhill jogging. Each hiker chooses which leader they’d like to join and the groups disperse. Everyone returns to the starting point two hours later. Sometimes you ramble with a large group, while other times you might find yourself alone with the hike leader. The group can seem intimidating for first time would-be ramblers, but ask any one of the folks there to point out a hike leader, and they’ll help you choose an appropriate first ramble for your experience and speed. On this particular evening, my group of eight is heading up to Council Crest and we’ll be climbing about 1,200 feet and occasionally jogging to complete our mileage. We walk up through the alphabet blocks as the sun
8 MAZAMAS
fades, moving diagonally through Couch Park while passing diners gathered outside restaurants lit up with twinkling holiday lights. Our feet crunch through bright red maple leaves; the smell of fall delights us as we pass under Portland’s colorful mantle. An autumn ramble cemented my decision to join the Mazamas. I’d just moved back to Portland and was dreading the onset of winter. I slipped out of work early and took the MAX from Beaverton, unsure of what to expect especially as it was promising rain. The sheer size of the crowd was my first surprise—I had assumed a single group's of people would be difficult to gather in the damp. Because it was my first ramble, I selected a moderate and hilly 4.75 mile hike, signed my waiver, and promised to pay next time. Learn from my experience: Bring a few dollars cash, a headlamp, and shoes that can get muddy! Another assumption: that we’d stay in the city lights. Some
of the rambles do, but many have long forested sections, and a headlamp always makes street crossings safer. We cross Burnside and start our first major ascent, a series of stairs. On our way back we’ll pass within two blocks of this point as part of our loop but for now we hustle upwards. After some quiet climbing we take a quick water break under a beautiful golden ginkgo tree in Hoyt Arboretum and then we’re continuing past the serene Vietnam Veterans Memorial, dipping down to cross Sunset Highway, and following switchbacks in the dark forest; a tiny island of Washington Park. Here the smells of moist evergreen and soil embrace
us, our bobbing headlights are the only light in the darkness. Rambles remind me of the things I love about Portland: our flora, a forest in the middle of the city, stairs, classic houses, cute restaurants. They show me new places to walk and hidden routes past familiar landmarks. On rambles I’ve learned about race-walking, Portland stairs, and electric cars. I met my ski buddy last year on a very dark ramble past the Audubon Society. They took a chance and invited me for a cross country ski two days later and I haven’t let them look back since. Each ramble promises a chance to stretch my legs and experience something new.
continued on next page NOVEMBER 2019 9
Rambles, continued from previous page A distinctive peace settles on the city in the evenings. For me it feels a bit like boating: other boats may move past you in the distance and you can see the bustle of the shore, but everyone in your boat is calm and focused on your experience. On this particular evening we’ve passed a couple of dog walkers, two speedy cyclists, and one loping trail runner. Hillside houses decorated for Halloween seem to show off just for us. Giant inflatable spiders, pumpkins, chrysanthemums, and lights add whimsy. I enjoy the homes and the forest equally; each provides a chance to see something new, even if you’ve walked the path before. Neighborhoods provide scents of cooking—fresh bread, curry—they show us architecture and landscaping art. The parks provide a different beauty—the trail of a slug, the sound of birds singing the dusk to sleep. The silent dark mound of Council Crest rises ahead. We climb the slick grass rise and suddenly the city spreads, lit up, below us. One member of our group—on her second ramble—learns the delight of the Council Crest echo. We’ve got 45 minutes to return to REI, so without further pause we begin our descent. Rambles meet Tuesdays and Thursdays rain, snow, sleet, or hail, unless the Portland Public Schools close due to weather. Be there at 5:45 p.m. to sign in and choose your hike. (Get more information on page 28 or at mazamas.org/streetrambles) Cost: $2 for nonmembers/$1 for members and 55+ Things to know: start at a moderate level for your first ramble—you can always turn the difficulty up to 8+ on your second or third outing. Bring a small pack for the essentials, water, and a headlamp.
ADVANCED ROCK (AR) Application period begins Dec. 3 Class Dates: Feb. 22–May 9, 2020 Application Open Date: Dec. 3, 2019 at 9 a.m. Application Close Date: Dec. 17, 2019 Skills Test: Jan. 10, 2020 Prerequisites: Leading outside within the last year, lead card at a local gym, and more. See website. Badges Earned: Traditional Rock Climbing, High-Angle Rock Rescue, Multi-Pitch Techniques, Course: AR The Mazama Advanced Rock (AR) Course provides high quality instruction and training to enable graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs on vertical rock. We teach the technical and mental skills that will prepare you for a wide range of climbing, from single-pitch cragging to multipitch and alpine rock routes. The AR program is comprised of a series of lectures given by knowledgeable speakers with hands-on demos or exercises where appropriate. The lectures are supported by weekend field sessions, coordinated and taught by skilled, experienced climbers. The Advanced Rock program offers you the opportunity to meet new and experienced rock climbers, as you learn about climbing areas and destinations. Information & requirements, schedule, and application information are available at: mazamas.org/advancedrock Toby Contreras belaying on Staender Ridge at Smith Rock. Photo by Ryan Johnson
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NOVEMBER 2019 11
Welcome New
MEMBERSHIP Benefits
MEMBERS
NEW MEMBERS: 51 Ian Anderson—Broken Top Debi Baker—Old Snowy Vilmos Barka—South Sister Kelley Jo Bayern—Mt. Adams Oliver Borg—South Sister Vince Briggeman—Mt. St. Helens Justin Clews—Mt. Adams John Crenshaw—Mt. Adams Jordan Culberson—South Sister Jake Dennis—South Sister Alice Dunning—Mt. Shasta Shimran George—Mt. St. Helens Michael Gibbons—South Sister Elaine Greif—Mt. Hood Kami Haggerty—Mt. Hood Mark Hubbard—South Sister Brock Husby—Longs Peak (CO) Gus Kirchoff—South Sister Alex Kunsevich—Mt. Baker Melinda Laubscher—Old Snowy Laura Lazorski—Mt. St. Helens Choon CH Leong—South Sister Geoff Maggi—South Sister Bruce Mckelvie—Mt. St. Helens Alli Miller—Broken Top Dylan Monro—Mt. St. Helens
Margaret Munroe—South Sister Hattie Kay Nosko—Pinnacle Peak Teri Osvold Smith—Old Snowy Sam Othus—Mt. Rainier Jooho Park—Mt. St. Helens Eric Piesner—Mt. St. Helens Tony Ramirez—Grand Teton (WY) Malcolm Reilly—South Sister Meg Ruby—South Sister Donna Schuurman—Mt. Hood Larry Shettler—Mt. Hood Jamie Shull—Mt. St. Helens Kyla Skerry—South Sister Kurt Smudzinski—Mt. Adams Jason Spieth—Mt. Hood Lexi Stickel—Mt. St. Helens Melissa Tanguay—South Sister Bill Tanguay—South Sister Colby Triolo—Mt. St. Helens Patricia Troy—Mt. St. Helens Melissa Vidal—Mt. Adams Helen Wang—Old Snowy Julia Williams—Mt. Kilimanjaro Matt Williamson—Mt. Hood Zan Zirbel—Mt. Hood
REINSTATEMENTS: 1
Andrea Frank (2014)
DECEASED: 4
Mary Baptist (1951), Betty Captein (1946), Gene Newcomer (1966), Richard Romaine (1954)
Our members are part of a 125-year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation. Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. ▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.
Total Membership as of Sept. 30: 3,603 (2019), 3,569 (2018)
RENEW Today! All Mazama memberships expire on October 31 of the membership year. If you have not yet renewed for 2020, now is the time. Renewal is a simple process. Go to mazamas.org. Click on Login. Once logged in, go to your dashboard and click on Renew Your Membership. Follow the prompts. That's all there is to it! Your membership will be renewed for another year.
12 MAZAMAS
SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS July 5—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Lynne Pedersen, Leader. Andrew Leaf, Assistant. Karen Graves, Sergey Kiselev. July 17—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Larry Beck, Leader. Laura Guderyahn, Assistant. Beckett Cohen, Teresa Dalsager, Travis Feracota, Lucas Illing, Bridget Martin, jOaN WaLLace, Dawn Van Seggen. August 23—Plummer & Denman, Standard. Teresa Redman, Leader. Dirk Lakeman, Assistant. Cathy Kurtz, Will Papenfuss.
Sept. 21—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Julie Kentosh, Leader. Gary Ballou, Assistant. Mike Borden, Taylor Courier, Mike Fairhurst, Shawn Kenner, Kyle Mangione. Sept. 21—Lemei Rock, Standard. Daniel Mick, Leader. Matthew Bell, Assistant. Howard Buck, Kate Evans. Sept. 21—The Tooth, South Face. Kerry Loehr, Leader. Tim Scott, Assistant. Darren Ferris, Aimee Filimoehala, Forest Fogarty, Matt Fogarty.
Saying Goodbye ROSE MARIE GILBERT February 14, 1936–October 6, 2019 Rose Marie Gilbert was considered by her friends and family to be an avid outdoorswoman and gardener who loved the Northwest lifestyle. This dynamic person joined the Mazamas in 1977 and took to the wonders of hiking in a big way. She became a Trail Trips leader in 1986 and consistently led hikes, including on Mazama Outings, until 2008. Several years later she returned to lead hikes for the Classics and also chaired the Classics Committee from 2014-2016. Mixed in with her hiking adventures were a number of Trail Tending leads and several Mazama Lodge work parties. Starting in 2007, she became the driving force for a Gresham senior hiking group and introduced many people to the wonders of the outdoors for the next several years. With zealous enthusiasm Rose Marie spread the gospel of hiking, snowshoeing and Nordic skiing wherever she went. In addition, apparently, she could bake a mean apple pie. Rose Marie is survived by her children, Wayne, Wendy, and Chris; and six grandchildren.
Oregon Nordic Club PORTLAND CHAPTER
Come cross-country ski with us! MEMBERSHIP INCLUDES:
Overnight Trips (local & international)
Weekend/Mid-Week Ski & Snowshoe Tours Bus Transportation to Mt. Hood (2020 January/February weekends)
Monthly Programs Summer Trail Tending Tilly Jane Cabin Weekends Merchant Discounts
Join today! onc-pdx.org NOVEMBER 2019 13
FESTIVAL DATES: NOV. 11–17, 2019
MOUNTAINS. COMMUNITY. INSPIRATION. CHALLENGE. PRESENTED BY GRIVEL. HOSTED BY THE MAZAMAS. Join us for six days of inspiration, learning, demos, and more as you immerse yourself in the world of all things alpine. There's ice climbing, rock climbing, mountain running, and much more. You'll get the opportunity to hear from and learn from some of our local Pacific Northwest athletes, as well as athletes making waves on the national and international scene.
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Mountain as Mentor
The Summit An Evening with Lynn Hill
NOVEMBER 2019 15
The
Summit An Evening with Lynn Hill Nov. 16 from 5:30–10 p.m. at the Redd East (SE Portland)
T
he Summit, PAF’s biggest event, has quickly become an event that is eagerly awaited throughout the year. This year, we are excited to welcome climb legend Lynn Hill to the Portland area as the keynote speaker!
BLACK & WHITE 4, 5, 12, 13, 20, 21, 28, and 29
Get decked out in your finest non-outdoor gear (no helmets needed!) for the biggest extravaganza of PAF! In addition to hearing from the amazing Lynn Hill, you have the opportunity to socialize with your friends, talk to a variety of reps from outdoor related companies, all while you enjoy tasty food and drinks. Food and non-alcoholic beverages are included with your ticket. There are menu items to meet the needs of gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan attendees.
ASCENDING WOMEN Ascending Women is the story of Lynn Hill’s life as a pioneering woman in what was once a male dominated community: the sport of rock climbing. Lynn started out as a traditional climber in Southern California in 1975, where she joined forces with a group of climbers known as the Stonemasters, who pushed the standards of free climbing during the 70’s and 80’s. Lynn’s adventures continued to expand as she traveled across the country from California to New York, and then abroad to Europe in 1986. On her first trip to France, Lynn discovered what is now referred to as sport climbing on the uniquely featured limestones cliffs of southern France. Soon thereafter,
she was invited to return to Europe to participate in the first organized climbing competitions in the history of the sport. Lynn was one of the first champions of competition climbing from the mid 1980’s until 1992, when she left the world of competition climbing to pursue her first passion of outdoor rock climbing. Lynn was the first woman to climb 5.14 (three years before any other woman), and the first woman to on-sight 5.13b. In 1993, Lynn was able to combine her skills and experiences to author one of the most significant ascents of her generation. Her first free ascent of the Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California, is perhaps the most famous
rock climb in the world. Lynn was the first person—man or woman—to free climb the Nose. The Nose remained un-repeated for over a decade and stands among one of the world's great rock climbing accomplishments. Always curious and interested in learning about the world, Lynn has traveled to various places abroad: climbing in Europe, Kyrgyzstan, Vietnam, South America, Australia, Madagascar, Cuba, and China. Join Lynn on a journey through the evolution of climbing over the past 43 years and hear some of the stories that have helped shape and define her own life, as well as the sport of rock climbing.
Get tickets: portlandalpinefest.org 16 MAZAMAS
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Mountain as Mentor: An Uncensored Look at a Tragedy Presenter: KEN WYLIE Monday, Nov. 11, 6:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Our travels through the mountains are rich with what we need to learn to keep safe on future adventures. Events, non-events, and near misses can be harvested for the information that can bolster our decision-making skills. Not paying attention to this information resulted in deep consequence for Ken Wylie.
Going Deep: An Evening with NWAC Presenter: NWAC TEAM Tuesday, Nov. 12, 7 p.m. at the Mountain Shop Mountain as Mentor The Summit An Evening with Lynn Hill
An evening with the forecasters, snow observers, and educators of the Northwest Avalanche Center. The first half of the evening will be a lecture focusing on how to make the most of the NWAC avalanche forecast. The second half will be a casual question-andanswer session.
Expedition Unknown Presenter: KATIE MILLS, NICK PAPPAS, AND WOJTEK & AMY PAGACZ Wednesday, Nov. 13, 6:30 p.m. at the MMC In the spirit of true exploration, Katie Mills, Nick Pappas, and Wojtek and Amy Pagacz flew into an unknown valley in the Nahanni National Park Reserve of the Northwest Territories of Canada with no photos, no maps, and no information other than a YouTube video flyover correlated to Google Earth. The weather was terrible, the rock was even worse, but despite the adversity some hard won first ascents were had.
Himalayan Ice: Adventures in India's Most Remote Valley Presenter: ARI NOVAK Thursday, Nov. 14, 7 p.m. at Patagonia Portland In December 2018, alpinists Ari Novak and Karsten Delap set out for India to explore one of the most remote valleys in the Indian Himalaya with local Indian climber Karn Kowshik. Their goal was to meet with the indigenous population of the Spiti Valley and try to support local ice climbing. What they found was perhaps the biggest treasure trove of unclimbed ice in all the Himalaya.
Get tickets: portlandalpinefest.org
Portland ICE Comp Friday, Nov. 15, 6 p.m. at Planet Granite Are you ready? New challenges await for all of you who are ready to step up and tackle the Portland Ice Comp. And there is fun to be had by all of you who come out to spectate and cheer on the competitors. This event is a fundraiser for Friends of Hyalite. With your help, we can help plow the road at Hyalite Canyon to keep the climbing available for all! The event will include a raffle, prizes, food carts, and amazing climbing. 18 MAZAMAS
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LEGENDARY ENGINEERING
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NOVEMBER 2019 19
PAFlete
John Barkhausen by Brian Goldman What compels you to climb? I think I climb because if feels like my world shrinks, and I get to focus on the moment: where my hands go, where my feet go, where's my next piece of protection, etc. I get to ignore everything else from the "real world" for a little while. Have you ever started a climb, thought twice about continuing for various reasons, and then gone back down? What compelled you to make that decision? Have you ever thought what am I doing here? Definitely. If you're not willing to back off a climb, you probably won't be climbing very long. I've come down from routes for various reasons: too hard, too long, poor conditions, not prepared, hunger. I have always been a conservative decision maker when it comes to climbing and being in the mountains. I recently heard a great saying that really sums it up for me, "there are three goals in climbing: come home, come home as friends, summit." Do you exercise and/or eat special foods to prepare for your outdoor adventures? I've actually found that one season can help prepare you for the next. For example, my ski season helps prepare me for my alpine season. For food, I just eat my normal fare before trips. While on trips, I try to balance energy food, like Shot Blocs and Gu, with real food like trail mix and dried fruit. In your opinion, are climbers getting more reckless or more safety conscious over time? And, are you getting more cautious with age? Climbers can be reckless but in general, no, I don't think they're getting more reckless. I do think that climbing is growing in popularity, and I've noticed two groups of people that are starting to expose themselves to more risk. One is folks that are pretty new to climbing, and hear about a certain kind of climbing then head out on objectives they're not really ready for. The other is high-end climbers that hear about complicated and risky forms or ways of climbing and then assume that's the new 20 MAZAMAS
way to climb certain routes. Both involve people getting in over their heads and ending up in situations or terrain they're not really prepared or trained for. Personally, like I mentioned before, I have always made conservative decisions. And, I recently became a Dad and that has definitely affected how I perceive risk and how I make decisions in the mountains.
What are your plans next for the outdoors? I always have a lot of plans rolling around in my head. There are many adventures, big and small, that I hope to tick off sometime soon. One that is getting closer to being a reality is crossing the Patagonian Icecap while doing some first ascents.
How has equipment improved over time? Vastly. Luckily, I started climbing after the main leaps forward in gear, like the invention of the camming unit. Beyond that, I feel like recent gear advances have just made me more comfortable, or able to move a bit faster or for longer.
What have you climbed that's noteworthy such that you've been asked to present at the PAF rather than sit as a member of the audience? What will you be presenting? I will be teaching a few clinics, and I think my past as a guide and climbing instructor has qualified me for that. I'm not sure about "noteworthy," but some climbs that I've been proud of are the NE Buttress of Mt. Slesse, NW Face of Half Dome in a day, and just this summer Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell. But I think I'm most proud of these climbs because I did all of them with my brother, who I consider my best climbing partner.
Is there a piece of equipment you wish someone would invent? I've always wanted to try and make an adapter so my mountaineering boots could click into my ski bindings. So if somebody could do that, I think it could be pretty fun. Did you have any mentors who took you climbing and inspired you? I do! So many. Over the years, I've climbed with a number of people I would consider a mentor. Some introduced me to climbing, others gave me an idea of how I could do this professionally or I could guide more efficiently and safely. At what point did you think you could make a living conducting outdoor adventures? I took a couple of years off from college, and taught skiing in Utah. That was really the moment I realized that instructing and guiding could be a career, and I made it my goal to make that happen. Over that last 10 or so years, I've been pursuing that goal. Sport climbing will be an Olympic sport in Japan next year—lead climbing; speed climbing; bouldering, for both men and women. The winner will be determined by who performs best on all three disciplines. What do you think about the sport being in the Olympics? I think it's great. I think it gives climbing some great exposure on a global stage. I'm excited to watch it!
It looks like you enjoy being outside— bugs, bad weather, danger and all. Why not just stay home, kick back and watch Netflix or read a book? Because that sounds boring. I'm an active person, and I need a way to get some energy out. Climbing not only lets me do that, but it also lets me explore amazing places and see amazing sites. Bugs, bad weather, etc. just add to the adventure. Reading your bio on the PAF webpage, it looks like you're pretty versatile in the outdoors and don't necessarily focus on mountains, but also other sports such as kayaking, rafting, backpacking and snowshoeing. Any preferences? I think that my two main passions are climbing and skiing. I do enjoy rafting and kayaking, but the mountains is really where my heart lives. What do you want your epitaph to read? I think I want it to say something about a long and happy life full of adventure. Although my wife said maybe it would say, "Nailed it."
EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS
The October meeting was preempted by the Mazama Annual Meeting. The next board meeting is on Tuesday, Nov. 19. All meetings are held on the third Tuesday of the month and begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. The Mazama Annual election for new Executive Council Members and Nominating Committee members was held by a combination of electronic and paper voting. An outside vendor was used to ensure the security of online voting. Emails were sent to all current voting members with an email address on September 5 with a unique voting link. There were three reminders sent after the initial email. There were 135 paper ballots mailed to members who do not have an email address. Our electorate for 2019 was 3,572 and a total of 768 ballots were cast for a voting percentage of 21.5 percent.
2019–2020 EXECUTIVE COUNCIL Traci Manning, President Robin Wilcox, Vice-President Joe Eberhardt, Treasurer Laura Guderyahn, Secretary Rick Amodeo Jesse Applegate Judith Baker Keith Campbell Amanda Ryan-Fear
NEW EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MEMBERS
Rick Amodeo Jesse Applegate Amanda Ryan-Fear
NEW NOMINATING COMMITTEE MEMBERS
Lynny Brown Freda Sherburne Barbara Weiss
THANK YOU! Thank you to our outgoing council members and officers. The 2018–19 year was a demanding year for our board and these individuals deserve our gratitude for their hard work and dedication during this time.
Laura Pigion, President Marty Scott, Vice President Amad Doratotaj
CONTACT US
MAZAMA STAFF
MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org
MITSU IWASAKI Executive Director mitsuiwasaki@mazamas.org
Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 am.–7 pm.; Fri. 10 am.–2 pm.
SARAH BRADHAM Operations Director sarah@mazamas.org
MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028; Phone: 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Sun. Noon
PUBLICATIONS TEAM Editor: Sarah Bradham, Bulletin Editor, (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Lindsey Garner, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, and Katie Polanshek (publications@mazamas.org)
MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@mazamas.org
CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org
MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator RICK CRAYCRAFT mollymosenthal@mazamas.org Facilities Manager facillities@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@mazamas.org TIM SCOTT Education & IT Support timscott@mazamas.org
For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/ contactinformation. NOVEMBER 2019 21
EVENING
TRAVEL PROGRAMS The Mazamas offers a robust Evening Travel Program from mid-October through April every year at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. You’ll virtually travel to every corner of the globe as our dynamic speakers immerse you in their experience through photos, video, and great storytelling. Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. View the entire season’s schedule at mazamas.org/eveningtravelprograms.
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Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave, Portland, Ore. Programs Start at 7 p.m.
America's Great Mountain Trails, November 6 In this stunning slideshow, awardwinning author and photographer Tim Palmer will take us on a tour of the most spectacular and revealing mountain hikes in America. His stunning photos tell stories of trail walking adventures, spanning five decades, from Katahdin to Olympus, from Denali to El Yunque. Tim is eager to field questions about his mountain adventures and will have copies of his books available for purchase. Tim is the recipient of the National Outdoor Book Award, the Communicator of the Year Award from the National Wildlife Federation, the Ansel Adams Photography Award from the Sierra Club, and other honors. He lives in Port Orford, Oregon. Learn more at www. timpalmer.org
More details at: mazamas.org/evening travelprograms 22 MAZAMAS
Expedition Unknown, November 13 In the spirit of true exploration, Katie Mills, Nick Pappas, and Wojtek and Amy Pagacz flew into an unknown valley in the Nahanni National Park Reserve of the Northwest Territories of Canada with no photos, no maps, and no information other than a YouTube video flyover correlated to Google Earth. The weather was terrible, the rock was even worse, but despite the adversity some hard won first ascents were had. Come hear and see about the mountains they did and didn't climb in the surreal incredible valley they were the first to explore. This expedition was funded by the 2018 Mazamas Bob Wilson Grant. Tickets required. Purchase tickets at portlandalpinefest.org/tickets.
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TICKETS REQUIRED
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Oregon's Unique High Desert November 20
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Exploring Peru and Bolivia, Amazon to the Andes, December 4 In May of 2019, Mazama members Sue Brickey and Rick Pope joined a small guided group to South America led by Active Adventures. In addition to visiting Cuzco and Machu Picchu, they trekked through the Lares Valley seeing only local people along the way. Mountain biking in the Sacred Valley led past ancient ruins and a wildlife refuge. Two days were spent in the Amazonian basin exploring the rich diversity of wildlife, then it was back to 12,000 feet and the shores of Lake Titicaca. Both the Peruvian and Bolivian sides were visited by motor boat, reed boat, kayak, and on foot. A short flight led to the Uyuni desert, the largest salt flat in the world, where local salt production was observed and unique cactus islands awaited. A final stop in La Paz, plus a hike at 16,000 feet on nearby peak Huayna Potosí, rounded out the trip.
Join photographer Jim Davis for a visual tour through the jaw-dropping wild country of Oregon's high desert. Pictographs dating back thousands of years. Sweeping views of landscapes that have looked the same for centuries. Dark night skies filled with endless stars. All these qualities and more give Oregon’s high desert a unique timeless quality you won’t find anywhere else in Oregon – or in many other places worldwide. Oregon Natural Desert Association presents these landscapes in their Wild Desert Calendar each year. You'll be able to leave with a calendar and inspiration to take part in the work to protect these incredible lands and waters.
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Adventurous Young MAZAMAS (AYM)
Mazama CLASSICS
Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.
For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.
LEADER SPOTLIGHT:
ARIELLE GORDON
HOMETOWN Cleveland, Ohio Years with the Mazamas? This is my first year. What trips are you most excited to lead? Hiking trips in Mt. Hood National Forest and out toward Hood River. What is one thing that you always bring on a hike that is not one of the 10 essentials? Trail Mix. When you were a kid, what did you want to be when you grew up and why? Growing up I wanted to be a veterinarian, mainly because it was a career with animals. I ended up a medical professional with a lot of pets, so I suppose I wasn’t too far off. What is one surprising thing about yourself that people don't usually know about you? I have a horse, named Iggy, and we ride dressage. People should sign up for a trip with you if ... You are looking for a dog friendly and social hiking event.
WANT TO BE FEATURED ON THE AYM INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT? TAG @AYMPDX IN YOUR PHOTOS OF MAZAMA ADVENTURES!
Check the website at mazamas.org/AYM and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted.
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We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. CONTACTING THE CLASSICS To contact the Classics: Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org.
SUPPORT THE CLASSICS Classics needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.
LEADING EVENTS IN DECEMBER If you want to lead an event please contact the Classics at classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.
CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Our upcoming meetings are Nov. 25 & Jan. 27 from 11 a.m.–12:30 p.m. at the MMC, in the library. Check the Bulletin or the website.
CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.
FRI. DEC. 6: HOLIDAY LUNCHEON We will be welcoming new 25 year members and honoring members achieving 50, 60, and 70 years as members. Pins will be presented to those attending (or mailed to those unable to attend). A $5 donation is suggested. Doors will open at 11:30 p.m. and the buffet lunch will start at noon. Our new executive director, Mitsu Iwasaki will be our speaker. Please register by Dec. 3 to attend. RSVP at tinyurl.com/MazClassics2019 or call 503-227-2345. Space is limited to 80 place settings, so sign up soon! Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center.
Mazama OUTINGS
Mazama LODGE
National and International Adventures of three days or more.
Our home on the mountain.
DEATH VALLEY: HIKING & EXPLORATION
by Charles Barker, Mazama Lodge Manager
MARCH 8–15, 2020 LEADER: BOB BREIVOGEL Participants are responsible for their transportation ( flying to Las Vegas and car rental, or driving from Portland). We will try to organize carpools for the group, as well as gear sharing. An SUV type of car with adequate ground clearance is desirable but not absolutely necessary. It is expected that you have some prior car camping experience, as we will need tents and sleeping bags, and cook on camp stoves. We will camp seven nights at the Furnace Creek group campground, which has water and flush toilets but no on-site showers. There is a general store and restaurant nearby if needed, and showers can be taken at the nearby resort for a small fee. Days are generally pleasantly warm and nights cool; but be prepared for a variety of weather conditions, as it can be hot and cold the same day, as well as windy. We will have day hikes, mostly A- and B-level at a moderate pace. We may also climb (strenuous) Telescope Peak, if there is enough interest and if conditions permit. There are non-hiking activities—Scottie’s Castle (may reopen this year); old mines and ghost towns (which largely involve scenic drives); and wildlife viewing, including desert pupfish, bighorn sheep, reptiles, birds, and insects. March is also a good time for wildflowers if the conditions are right. The leader is an avid photographer with many years experience and several prior trips to Death Valley. Those interested in photography should bring their camera gear. We have the opportunity to view sunrise, sunset, and wildflowers in different areas of the park, such as Zabriskie Point, Artist Pallette, Badwater, and the sand dunes. This is a dark sky park, and we will have some moonless nights later in the trip for sky viewing. The cost of the trip, including Outing fees and campgrounds, is $115–$190, depending on group size (8 min–13 max, not including leaders). Signup deadline is February 15, 2020. Deposit is $80. Contact leader Bob Breivogel (503-292-2940) or breivog@ teleport.com if you have questions.
Go to mazamas.org/outings to view all outings. When you apply, you will be prompted to complete your profile, and you’ll enter credit card information. If accepted, your credit card will be charged for the trip deposit, and you will then be sent an invoice for the remainder of the outing cost. This invoice can be paid by credit card or check.
WINTER HOURS: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon
B
ill Stein will lead a hike at 1 p.m. on Thanksgiving, meeting at the Old Salmon River Trailhead (tinyurl.com/ OldSalmonRiver). This is an A-level hike, and will only take about 21/2, hours so you will have plenty of time to make it up to the Lodge for our 4 p.m. Thanksgiving dinner. If you would like to check in at the Lodge first, we will be opening the Lodge at noon on Thanksgiving and have an informal carpool option that will leave at 12:30 p.m. and meet the rest of the hikers at the trailhead.
MAZAMA LODGE THANKSGIVING DINNER Dinner is at 5 p.m., and the cost is $25 for adults, $15 for kids under 12. (Kids 2 and under eat free.)
Appetizers Smoked Salmon Platter Pickle & Olive Tray Hot Cider
Stuffing (gluten-free option) Cranberry Sauce Mixed Green Salad Turkey and Gravy
Dinner
Dessert
Aaron’s Homemade Bread Three Bean Salad Mashed & Sweet Potatoes
Apple & Pumpkin Pie with Whipped Cream
September 28, early snow at Mazama Lodge. Photo: Charles Barker
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Mazama
LIBRARY
Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at mazamas.org/library. Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country. Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping, and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.
New RELEASES & ADDITIONS Best Hikes with Kids: Western Washington, by Susan Elderkin. 2018. Author Susan Elderkin has seen her kids express wonder and glee at discovering insects and flowers, melt down in tearful defiance in the middle of a trail, and triumphantly reach a summit and view. In short, she’s a regular mom who wants to encourage other parents to get their regular kids out into nature too. While Susan is an expert hiker in her own right, it’s her children who helped her to see hiking from a kid’s point of view. The result is Best Hikes with Kids: Western Washington, a fresh and wholly new guide for families looking for quality time together away from their distracting devices. Mazama Library call# 917.97 E2 Adventuring with Kids: Glacier National Park, by Harley McAllister and Abby McAllister, 2018. With this guide in hand, families won’t risk having their “Goingto-the-Sun” drive end up feeling more like “Going-to-the-Dark-Side” with grumpy, bored children. Instead, they’ll be able to keep the whole family happy and ready for adventure! Mazama Library call# 917.86 M12 Adventuring with Kids: Yosemite National Park, by Harley McAllister and Abby McAllister, 2018. Spot climbers on El Cap, hike to rushing Yosemite Falls, float in the refreshing Merced River, visit Tuolumne’s alpine meadows, take an afternoon bicycle ride around the Valley--Yosemite has much to offer visitors, including its youngest ones. With an emphasis on outdoor education and fun, authors Harley and Abby McAllister write with parental practicality: kids aren’t going to be excited about views, and even spouses get cranky when they’re cold or hungry. Mazama Library call# 917.94 M12 26 MAZAMAS
DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶The Gothics is a 4,734 ft. mountain in the Adirondacks. ▶▶Washington Column is a rock formation in Yosemite Valley said to look like a giant sculpture of George Washington. ▶▶The Sphinx is a 13,258 ft. peak in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. ▶▶Angels Landing is a 5,790 ft. rock tower in Zion National Park.
Treasures from the SPECIAL COLLECTION The Cruise of the Corwin, John Muir, 1917. 307/500 Limited edition copy. John Muir agreed in 1881 to sail aboard the Corwin, whose fruitless mission it was to search for the missing scientific research vessel Jeannette, which itself became icebound while exploring the distant and mysterious Wrangell Land in the higher latitudes of the Arctic. This cruise would afford Muir the opportunity to examine evidence of glaciation along the arctic coastlines of Siberia and Alaska and the harmonious lifestyle of Inuits and Chukchis, which was in the midst of disruption from the intrusions of the civilized South. Mazama Library Special Collection call #918.8 M95.
Books with GREAT TITLES ▶▶ How to die in the outdoors: 100 interesting ways, by Buck Tilton M.S. 614.8 T47 ▶▶ No Shit! There I was...a collection of wild stories from wild people, Todd Skinner, 910.4 H66 ▶▶ Gorp, Glop, & Glue Stew: Favorite food from 165 outdoor experts, Yvonne Prater, 641.5 P88
The Mazama Library NEEDS SUPPORT—from you! Do you or someone you know have vintage mountaineering gear that is looking for a home? Don’t give it to Goodwill, donate it to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections! We are always on the lookout for wood handle ice axes, early climbing gear, vintage catalogs, turn of the century photographs, early mountaineering books, and more. Please contact library manager Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to discuss potential donations. We apologize, but we cannot accept any Mazama Annuals published after 1925 or National Geographic magazines. Please consider a financial contribution to support the Mazama Library, a nationally recognized collection and one of the few remaining mountaineering libraries in the United States. Your financial donation will help support our full-time librarian, acquire rare mountaineering books and historic photographs, and maintain our valuable archives and historic objects collections. Thank you for your support. NOVEMBER 2019 27
TRAIL TRIPS
JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions.
The Mazamas offers our Trail Trips (hiking) program to serve just about every ability level. We have leaders who like to take their time meandering along flat trails for a short duration, while other want to hike at a fast clip up the side of a mountain. You get to choose what is best for you! All Mazamas hikes are open to members and nonmembers. We welcome nonmembers or those with limited experience on our hikes. Our leaders are some of the most experienced hikers in the Northwest, and they can show you some spots that you might never get to on your own! Hikes are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers. Sign up online. All hikes listed below are available for signup on our website! Head on over to mazamas.org/hiking to get more details. Find the hike you want to go on, click on the link, and follow the signup prompts. HK C2.5 Nov. 2. Huckleberry Mountain/ Boulder Ridge to Bonanza. Leader: Kurt A Hiland, kurthikes@msn.com, 503-679-5053. Point to point hike through the high forest of the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness near Mount Hood. We'll begin at the Wildwood Rec Area off Hwy 26 and work our way up Boulder Ridge to the high viewpoint at 4,200 ft. The descent will be via Bonanza Trail, passing the old Bonanza Mine and along Cheeney Creek to the ending trailhead. Bring at least a 30-liter pack stuffed with winter clothing, food, headlamp, and boot traction if you have it. Car shuttle. 11 miles 3,500 ft. elevation gain. Meet at Gateway Park & Ride and be ready to depart at 7:30 a.m. HK B2 Nov. 3. Kings Mountain Junior Hike. Leader: Bruce Giordano, brucegiord32@ gmail.com, 503-477-6013. Hike begins at Kings Mountain trailhead. Instead of heading straight up Kings Mountain trail however, we make a left onto Wilson River Trail. We follow this up about 1.8 miles to unmarked junction with Kings Junior trail. We follow Kings Junior trail steeply up to open area on rocky ridge crest. There are views south to the Moore and Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 ft. elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 ft. elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ ft. elevation gain. Class D: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contacting leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12. Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace
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Ben Smith Creek drainages and a steep dropoff below. Burrow through Douglas-firs along the crest reaching a high point with no view, but there have been glimpses of the Kings Mountain summit and west ridge through the trees. At that point we head steeply down before heading back up and connecting back to Kings Mountain trail. We will continue on the Kings Mountain trail to the summit. For our return we will follow the Kings Mountain trail back to the trailhead. We are meeting at Target but let me know if anyone wants me to pick them up at Sunset Transit on my way over there. 5.8 miles with 2,700 feet elevation gain. Target & SW 185th at 8 a.m. HK B2 Nov. 3. Clarno's Geologic Wonders. Leader: Karyn Patridge, karynpatridge@ gmail.com, 315-529-5750. Hike to some of the most geologically-significant sites at the Clarno Unit of John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. View fossil trees and nut beds, interpreted by your leader, a geologist by training. This hike REQUIRES one bouldering move: crawling up and down a rock face. 8 miles. 1,550 ft. Drive: 150, Gateway Park & Ride at 6 a.m. MeetUp. HK A1.5 Nov. 5. Devil's Rest ( from Larch Mountain Rd). Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@comcast.net, 503-658-5710. Join Classics' leader, Flora Huber, for a hike of Devil's Rest starting from Larch Mountain Road. 5 miles with 300 ft of elevation gain. Meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center before 9 a.m. to carpool.
information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. Hike fees/Snowshoe/Nordic Costs: $2 for members, $4 nonmembers; Backpack Costs: Vary depending on trip. Meeting Places: Clackamas Towne Center Park & Ride (9225 SE Sunnyside Road, Clackamas): Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P
HK A1.5 Nov. 7. Wahclella Falls Hike. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@comcast.net, 503-658-5710. Classics hike of the recently reopened Wahclella Falls. 1.8 miles and 1,040 ft. elevation gain. Meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center by 9 a.m. to carpool. HK C2 Nov. 9. Rooster Rock. Leader: Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@juno.com, 503-6792113. No, the other Rooster Rock, the one down by Mollala. If we get the weather it's a lovely ridge hike that ends at a feature called Chicken Rock. Given the date anything could happen weatherwise, I'll make the determination whether to proceed when the time comes. Be prepared for the weather. 11.5 miles. 3,770. Drive: 42.5, Clackamas Town Center Max Park & Ride Garage at 7:30 a.m. HK B2 Nov. 11. Misery Ridge to Summit Loop. Leader: Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@gmail. com, 503-830-0817. Smith Rock is the most visible remaining element of the Crooked River Caldera, a Yellowstone-sized volcano that erupted 30 million years ago. Today it's known as Oregon's rock climbing mecca, but it also offers some of the state's most iconic hiking. We will ascend to a great view of Monkey Face, then we will take the longer Summit loop clockwise around Smith Rock. Along the way, we'll stop to admire rock climbers. And if we're lucky, we'll also see a line of Cascade volcanoes. 7.2 miles, 1,750 ft. Drive. 270 miles RT. Meet at Clackamas Towne Center MAX Park & Ride Garage at 5:30 a.m. MeetUp.
and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton– Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185– Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage.–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver. 99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants
should wear appropriate hiking shoes, and carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
READY TO SIGN UP ONLINE? Many hikes have limited space. Sign up online to secure your spot. Are you a first time user? Go to mazamas.org/gettingstarted to learn how to create your account. It’s simple, and should take no more than 5 minutes to get up and running. Please review the information at mazamas.org/gettingstarted carefully before creating your account. If you still have questions after reading the information, email us at help@ mazamas.org. HK B1.5 Nov. 13. Stub Stewart State Park. Leader: Tony Spiering, aespiering@ gmail.com, 503-680-8112. Explore one of Oregon's newest state parks. We will hike some of the trails while becoming familiar with opportunities for camping, disc golf, mountain biking, and horse riding. Just 34 miles west of Portland with a easy drive on US 26 and Highway 47. Distance: 5 miles and approximately 1,000 feet elevation. Target & SW 185th at 8 a.m. HK B1.5 Nov. 21. Multnomah Falls Loop. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@comcast. net, 503-658-5710. Beautiful fall hike of the Multnomah Falls Loop. 5.4 miles. 1,700. Drive: 60. Meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) at 9 a.m. to carpool. HK C2.5 Nov. 23. Cascade Head and Hart's Cove. Leader: Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@gmail. com, 503-830-0817. Visit some of the most dramatic viewpoints on the north Oregon coast! The view from the high point is of Lincoln City and Siletz Bay, the view from a lower point is of a hidden waterfall, and we'll be serenaded at times by barking sea lions. This hike is an out-and-back, and as both ends are near sea level, we’ll gain an equal amount of elevation before and after lunch. About two miles of our hike will be on roads. 14 mi., 2,800 ft., Drive: 180, Barbur Transit Center in SW Portland at 6:30 a.m. MeetUp. HK C1.5 Nov. 24. Benson Plateau (Herman Creek). Leader: Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@ juno.com, 503-679-2113. Our annual preThanksgiving tromp up the "easy" way to Benson Plateau. Conditions vary from year to year. I will monitor conditions and weather right up until hike day. Cash in on the shape you got in during climbing season and join us in a rigorous outing. Wilderness limit of 12. 12.8 miles. 3,720. Drive: 78, Gateway Park & Ride at 7:30 a.m. HK A1.5 Nov. 26. Deschutes River Trail. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@comcast. net, 503-658-5710. Taking advantage of the cooler weather (no rattlesnakes!) to do this beautiful hike along the Deschutes River. Plan for about 4 mi and 500 ft of elevation gain. 8 miles. 800. Drive: 184. Meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center before 9 a.m. to carpool.
HK C2 Dec. 1. Larch Mountain from Multnomah Falls. Leader: Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@gmail.com, 503-830-0817. A Gorge classic transformed by the Eagle Creek fire. The ascent to the top of Multnomah Falls is amazingly open, and the forest is partially charred. We will walk Multnomah Creek as far as Wiesendanger Falls, and we may get volcano views from Sherrard Point. We will likely reach snow. Also, cold, wind, and precipitation are possible, so please apply only if you plan to bring everything on the long gear list. 13.8 miles. 4,100 ft. Drive: 48, Gateway Park & Ride at 7 a.m. MeetUp. HK C1.5 Dec. 7. Elk/Kings Loop (with car shuttle). Leader: Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@ juno.com, 503-679-2113. If hikes in the Gorge are elevators, then this is a roller coaster. Can be pretty exciting in inclement conditions or with snow. I will not hesitate to cancel this hike if I deem it too potentially exciting. Due to short days we'll do it as a car shuttle. Up Elk and then over to Kings and down. May need microspikes and in one section there is a rope provided. A true "C" hike. Please call me if you have any questions/doubts. I'll monitor conditions and weather right down to the day before we go. 8.5 miles. 2,950 ft. Drive: 60, Target & SW 185th at 7:30 a.m.. HK B1.5 Dec. 13. White River Canyon Moonlit Snowshoe. Leader: Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@gmail.com, 503-830-0817. Ascending White River Canyon on snowshoes by the light of the full moon is magical. If the sky is clear, not only will Mt. Hood be dramatically lit, but we can eschew headlamps. Bring them anyway, though, along with full winter gear and at least two pair of gloves, just in case our weather is less than ideal. Oregon (or California or Idaho) Sno-Park permit required on every vehicle. Snowshoes not provided! Please bring your own, sized for your boots, or don't register. 7 miles. 1,600 ft. Drive: 110, SE Fuller Road Park & Ride at 6 p.m. MeetUp. HK B2 Dec. 15. Ten Falls + Local Culture. Leader: Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@gmail.com, 503-830-0817. The Trail of Ten Falls, at Silver Falls State Park, is Oregon's most waterfallrich trail. This hike, starting and ending at South Falls, will be sandwiched by two cultural activities: breakfast in Silverton in the AM and the Silver Falls Christmas Festival in the PM. If you're not interested in both
STREET RAMBLES Tuesday & Thursday at REI in the Pearl NOVEMBER 5, 7, 12, 14, 19, 21, 26 (No ramble is scheduled on Thanksgiving Day) Every Tuesday & Thursday you can join a team of Mazamas at the REI in the Pearl District. Going on a Street Ramble is one of the best ways to get an introduction to the Mazama hiking program. Meet other hikers and maybe plan a weekend trip, maintain your fitness after work, and see some hidden parts of Portland you might never get to see otherwise. Interested in joining us? All you need to do is show up, check in, pay, and be ready to go at 6 p.m. We'll see you there! Meet in the parking garage at REI in the Pearl District at 1405 NW Johnson Street, Portland, 97209. cultural experiences, please do not register for this Trail Trip. It's important to your hike leader that our hikers inject a little $ into the communities where we hike from time to time. Icy conditions have been encountered on Christmas Festival weekend in the past, so please bring traction devices (micro-spikes or yak-trax). Every vehicle will need to pay $5 or display an Oregon State Park day use pass. 8.7 miles. 1,300. Drive: 55, SE Fuller Road Park & Ride at 7:30 a.m. MeetUp.
NOVEMBER 2019 29
Portland Alpine Fest
Photo of the Year The 24 semifinalist images as chosen by our judges are below. You can VOTE for the Audience Choice award! Cast your virtual vote by going to the PAF Facebook page and liking the image in the Portland Alpine Fest Photo of the Year album. Vote in person at Base Camp Brewing Company (starting on Nov. 2). Winners to be announced at The Summit on Nov. 16!
DANIEL SHERMAN
MICHELLE LIN
KEVIN MACHTELINCKX
CALEB JACOBSON
DREW LESCHE-WRAGGE
DREW LESCHE-WRAGGE
CALEB JACOBSON
WADE HEWITT
WHITNEE GOODE
KEVIN COWLEY
KEVIN COWLEY
PHILLIP BRANSCUM
DEREK FIAS
SCOTT GIBSON
RACHAEL PIKE
DYLAN ZEOBELEIN
RALPH DAUB
CALEB JACOBSON
KEVIN MACHTELINCKX
DYLAN ZEOBELEIN
RACHAEL PIKE
DANIEL SHERMAN
LUCIE SINSABAUGH
CALEB JACOBSON
30 MAZAMAS
MazamasÂŽ 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215 www.mazamas.org
Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon